The heart of the capital. The height of luxury.
( 2 minute walk )
A PERFECT
pairing of fine Italian wine and cuisine Visit Don Giovanni restaurant and enjoy rich, authentic Italian food and every Saturday during lunch time, you can sample selected Italian wines at a 50% discount. Don’t miss out - this special offer will only last as long as stocks do.
FOR MORE INFORMATION AND RESERVATION PLEASE CONTACT KHUN YING (F&B RESERVATION COORDINATOR) T: 02 541 1234 EXT. 4151 | E: FB_OFFICE@CHR.CO.TH
PUBLISHER’S LETTER In Thailand, Mother’s Day falls on August 12, the birthday of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, and Bangkok pulls out all the stops in honour of the occasion. This month, we not only pay homage to moms everywhere — we also reveal the most exciting ways for you to celebrate with yours. From wine-and-painting classes to indoor rock climbing, we break down the coolest ways to treat your mom in our Out & About feature. If your special lady is more of the shopping type, she might prefer to visit the sprawling train markets, which are the focus of our Best of BKK. A very famous mother, publisher –philanthropist-boutique owner M.R. Narisa Chakrabongse, takes a moment out of her packed schedule to talk about life and work in My Bangkok. We dive deep into food, nightlife, and travel, too. Get an insider’s look at the booming Suan Phlu neighbourhood in the brand-new On the Block. For another new treat, check out our interview with the enterprising Nicolas Vivin in Food for Thought. French and Japanese flavours play big in Food & Drink, and beer geeks can quench their thirst with our review of the Wishbeer Home Bar in Nightlife. All this, as well as our 101 archive and extras, can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.
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WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
AUGUST 2015 | 5
publisher
Mason Florence
CONTRIBUTORS
editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Craig Sauers
associate editor
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Joe Cummings editorial coordinator
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
GABY DOMAN is a Bangkokbased writer with a serious social media habit. When she’s not at the gym, she can be found undoing all her good work in a bakery or a bar. A brownie or Dirty Martini (respectively), if you’re buying.
Pongphop Songsiriarcha art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Rachel Kwok, Nads Willow, Nan Tohchoodee, Adam O’Keefe, Jim Algie, Marco Ferrarese, Laurence Civil, Nicola Jones-Crossley, Matt Wilde contributing photographers
Willem Deenik, Greg Powell, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director sales and marketing
A Brit with three decades of Bangkok living, KEITH MUNDY has been a freelance travel writer and photographer for 26 years. Trained in languages and literature (English, French, Spanish), he has been a traveller since the age of 14, visited 96 countries so far and been kicked out of a couple. His work has appeared in travel and lifestyle magazines worldwide, including the inflight magazines of several major airlines, and he is the author of guidebooks to Thailand and Mexico, plus Thai corporate and cultural histories.
AVAILABLE AT:
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Paris native LUC CITRINOT has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon account executive
Orawan Ratanapratum circulation
Phichet Reangchit interns
Clara Schmitt, Qisheng Wang, Kanyawee Petchana published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
SEP T EM BER 2014 | 7
CONTENTS 52
22 46
18
CITY PULSE
TRAVEL
10 metro beat
44 upcountry now
NIGHTLIFE 94 nightlife news
14 my bangkok: m.r.
46 upcountry escape:
96 review: wishbeer
narisa chakrabongse
another slice of pai
home bar
16 hot plates:
52 over the border:
indique
lake baikal
104
18 out & about: off the rails
ART & CULTURE
22 best of bkk: mom’s
58 exhibition highlights
day out
60 interview: raree
28 making merit:
62 cheat notes
goodwill group
64 photo feature:
foundation
faces of nepal
30 on the block: soi
FOOD & DRINK
SHOPPING
70 food & drink news
104 new collection:
60
72 meal deals
vickteerut
74
32 tom’s two satang
73 restaurant reviews:
106 unique boutique:
34 joe’s bangkok
trader vic’s, cafe riviera,
vuudh
36 bizarre thailand
kisso, tables grill, scalini,
38 very thai
zuma
40 heritage: scala
82 in the kitchen: fatih
108 lavana spa
tutak
109 mother’s day spa
83 eat like nym
promo
suan phlu
SNAPSHOTS
WELLNESS
84 food for thought: vivin
REFERENCE 110 sightseeing listings 113 map
ON THE COVER Happy Mother’s Day, Bangkok! Illustration by Raree. See more on Instagram @rareemade and contact on LINE @rareez.
8 | AUGUST 2015
bangkok101.com
CITY PU LSE
metro beat Motown Philly’s back again, doing a little Bangkok fling. Boyz II Men visit the capital on August 16, breaking hearts at BITEC Hall 106 (BTS Bangna). Down from four members to three, the group will croon classic cuts from its days as a quartet like “I’ll Make Love to You” and “On Bended Knee” while also performing tracks off their 2014 release, Collide. Tickets range from B1500 to B5000. The show starts at 7pm. For more information, visit thaiticketmajor.com.
ROCK & POP
Imagine Dragons Vegas-based rockers Imagine Dragons bring their brash act to Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani) on August 29. Part of their global Smoke + Mirrors Tour, the band’s foray to the Thai capital will doubtless incorporate the fiercest aspects of arena rock shows, including pyrotechnics and ear-splitting guitar lines. The show starts at 8pm, with doors opening thirty minutes earlier. Tickets run from B1500 to B4000 in price. For more information, log on to thaiticketmajor.com.
FILM The Used August is a busy month on the concert circuit. First, The Used plays at Hollywood Awards (Ratchada Soi 8, MRT Thailand Cultural Centre) on August 5. The band has been around since 2001, and hit it big with their self-titled release a year later. Their most recent album, Imaginary Enemy, reached number one on Billboard’s independent chart. Tickets cost B1500, but only 900 are available. For more information, call 08 1310 3457 or visit facebook. com/indypopconcerts. On August 15, HOF Art Residency at the W District (BTS Phra Khanong) presents a full day of live lo-fi, folk, psychedelic, and experimental music at Psych-Out 2 Mini Fest. Organized by Archive Project, the folks who run Archive Record Store, the show starts at 3pm with Wednesday and runs until 11pm, when Govinda Bhasya closes the day. The other bands set to perform are Strange Brew, Sanim Yok, Tuk Suk, Yena, Abstraction XL, Chladni Chandi, Lala, and Chinnawess. Tickets are B600. Check facebook.com/archiverecordsstore for more details. 10 | AUGUST 2015
Broken Glass Park The Goethe Institut continues its German film series with Broken Glass Park. Screened on August 9 and 11 at Srisalaya Cinema at the Thai Film Archive (Salaya, Putthamonton Rd Sai 5), the movie, directed by Bettina Blümner, tells the story of 17-year-old Sascha, who lives in a depressing, ugly high-rise estate somewhere on the margins of a German metropolis, but confronts the perils of the callous society around her head-on. All movies are in German with English subtitles, and admission is free. For more details, call 0 2108 8200 ext. 31 or 32 or email programm@bangkok.goethe.org. bangkok101.com
metro beat
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MOTHER’S DAY
12 August Half Marathon The annual 12 August Half Marathon, better known as the Mother’s Day Run, launches from the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (near Benjakitti Park) at 6am. The event honours Queen Sirikit on her 83rd birthday, above all, but also recognizes mothers everywhere. The race includes a 10.5k and half-marathon. There are cash prizes for the winners, so the stakes are high and the times fast, but it’s open to all runners and makes for a nice pick-me-up before taking mom out to brunch. For more information, visit 12aughalfmarathon.com or jogandjoy.com. For 12 hours on August 16, cyclists can enjoy 43 kilometres of car-free roads in Bangkok, from Si Ayutthaya to Phalyothin to Vibhavadi. From 9am to 9pm, Bike for Mom takes bike riders from Dusit Palace, past Victory Monument, to the Infantry Department 11 Royal Guard, and back again. HRH Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn is expected to attend the ceremonies, as well, paying respect to his mother, Her Majesty Queen Sirikit. For more information and to register, visit bikeformom2015.com.
CLASSICAL
Ballet with Young Thai Masters On August 11, take in a classic ballet performance by Nutnaree Pipitsuksun and Rudy Candia at the Thailand Cultural Centre (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre). Conducted by Martin André, and with support by the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, the programme features “White Swan Pas de Deux” by Tchaikovsky, “Adagio from Spartacus” by Khachaturian, “Meditation from Thalis” by Massenet, and “Carmen Suite” by Bizet. The performance starts at 8pm sharp. For ticket information, including prices, visit bangkoksymphony.org or facebook. com/bangkoksymphony. bangkok101.com
SPORTS
Muang Thai Marathon Jog on over to the Rama XIII Bridge for the Muang Thai Marathon on August 23, part of a series of races held throughout the country (Korat, Phuket, and Chiang Mai are the others). The course leads runners along the elevated Boromaratchachonnani Road — a familiar route, but also a safe, car-free one. Split into a marathon, half-marathon, 10k, and 5k, the race offers medals and t-shirts for all runners, and trophies to the top five in the 10k, half-marathon, and marathon. The races start early (4am for the marathon), so plan accordingly. Visit muangthaimarathon.com for more information. AUGUST 2015 | 11
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metro beat
ELECTRONIC
The Prodigy On August 11, Out of Dimension presents The Prodigy, the UK trance group famous for aggressive, rave-fave tracks “Firestarter” and “Smack My Bitch Up.” The concert promises much more than mid-90s electronica, though. Spread across two stages, supporting acts include local legends Gene Kasidit, Stylish Nonsense, Barbies, MC Tul Apartment Khunpa, and Kidnappers. The show takes over BITEC Hall 106 (BTS Bangna) at 5pm and runs through midnight. Tickets from August 1 start at B2500. For more information, check facebook.com/odbkk or thaiticketmajor.com. August 11, the same day The Prodigy descends upon BITEC, sees a new festival called Output battling for your attention (and money). It’s headlined by Zedd, whose collaborations with Hayley Williams of Paramore on “Stay the Night” and Ariana Grande on “Break Free” sent him rocketing to the top of the charts. With the release of his second studio album, “True Colors,” Zedd has established his place among the world’s leading pop-EDM acts. Other big-name DJs scheduled to perform include MOTi and Canadian duo Dzeko and Torres. The festival is taking place at The Thunder Dome (Muang Thong Thani), and tickets are priced at B2700 until August 8. For more information, visit facebook.com/ outputfestival.
PERFORMANCE
Snake Catch the last two nights of Snake at Sun Dance Theatre (BTS Sala Daeng) on August 1 and 2, before its twoweek run ends. The show tells a story of betrayal based on a folk tale from Hangzhou called “The Legend of the White Snake.” This adaption stars veteran actors Sun Tawalwongsri and Wannasak Sirilar. Tickets for the 8pm shows are B500 for general admission and B300 for students. For reservations and more information, call 08 8018 5966 or email sundancetheatre@gmail.com. After checking out Snake, head to B-floor (Pridi Banomyong Institute, Sukhumvit Soi 55) for the final nights of WW101 on August 2 and 3. Marking the co-directorial debuts of Sarut Komalittipong and Sasapin Siriwani, the performance was inspired by the 101st anniversary of the First World War. The Sunday show starts at 4pm while the closing night gets going at 8pm. Tickets are B450. Call 08 9167 4039 or email bfloortheatre@gmail.com for more details.
TRIPS & ACTIVITIES Join The Siam Society on a special one-day trip on August 8. Starting at 8.30am, Senior Consultant of the Siam Society Euayporn Kerdchouay leads a tour of two unique temples in Bangkok and an old heritage building in Nonthaburi. The itinerary includes a visit to Wat Rachathiwat, which was rebuilt in 1909 by H.R.H. Narisra Nuvadtiwonge and features unique murals and wooden buildings, as well as a stop by a temple originally built during the Ayutthaya period, Wat Devaraj Kunchorn. The tour also explores the Museum of Nonthaburi and breaks for lunch at Steve’s Café along the river. The trip costs B1350 for members and B1650 for non-members. For more information and bookings, call 0 2661 6470-3 or email ekkarinl@siam-society.org. 12 | AUGUST 2015
Secret Keeper From August 5-23, B-floor’s Dujdao “Dao” Vadhanapakorn takes centre stage in Secret Keeper, an experiential dance-based performance which urges the audience to examine how much they can really trust a stranger, especially in their safe space. The show is part of the BACC’s Performance Art Festival #4, which runs through December. Secret Keeper will be held in the BACC studio (Fl 4). Tickets cost B600. For more information, visit en.bacc.or.th. bangkok101.com
Mother’s day special
italian-american style a la carte brunch buffet price thb 2,500++ wednesday 12 august 2015 all mom dine for free* in 1920’s
information reservation
02-6206666
*Group minimum 4 persons
hilton sukhumvit bangkok, 11 sukhumvit soi 24, khlong ton, khlong toei, bangkok 10110 thailand facebook.com/scalinibangkok @hiltonbkk#scalinibkk bts skytrain: phrom phong
CITY PU LSE
my bangkok
M.R. Narisa CHAKRABONGSE
M.R. Narisa Chakrabongse is a true Renaissance woman. Publisher, philanthropist, owner of a boutique hotel, mother, grandmother, and educator, the kind-hearted dignitary chats with Bangkok 101 about what makes her tick.
When did you first fall in love with the written word? I learnt to read quite early, on a long boat trip back from Thailand, which was how we travelled when my father was alive. When my mother died and I was away at boarding school and unhappy, reading was a good escape from my sadness and a school I disliked. Reading is a wonderful way to retreat from difficulties. And writing can change the world for good or evil, so it is an extremely powerful tool. What inspired you to start your own publishing business? My first husband had started a small publishing business and I joined him, publishing books on antique toys and trains. Then I decided to do my own thing and started River Books to publish books on Thai art and culture. Soon, we expanded to Cambodia, and later, Burma. Although it is hard work being a small publisher, it is very satisfying as each book is a new project and one meets so many interesting people. What did you do when you moved back to Thailand from the UK? When I moved back in my late 20s, I did various things, such as teach English and Western Art History at Chitralada School. I did some research into the Affected Thai Village Programme for the Ford Foundation and then worked as an interpreter and translator at Supreme Command. How did you get you into philanthropy, and what drives the Green World Foundation? Every year when I came back to Thailand, I could see that environmental 14 | AUGUST 2015
degradation was increasing all the time and wanted to do something, albeit in a small way, to increase people’s awareness of the problems and perhaps inspire them to do something to help solve them. Green World Foundation is all about education and awareness. We have been closely involved with making nature more accessible and relevant to young people today. How do you ensure Chakrabongse Villas stay unique? Chakrabongse Villas is fortunate in being on the river with one of the best views in Bangkok. It also is low density with only seven rooms. That means that guests can have a lot of privacy and relax. In addition, we have a private launch and a long-tail boat for trips on the khlong. Because it is not part of a chain, we can make the hotel more individualistic, which is something people enjoy these days. But one has to keep doing new things. Early next year, we are collaborating with Museum Siam to organize a festival of art, literature, performance, music, and food called Bangkokedge. It’s a lot of work, but we think we are well-placed to do something like that. We’ll be launching it in September. What challenges do you face being royal Thai and English? I think the main challenge is not fitting in anywhere that well. In England, if I don’t say anything, I pass for English perfectly well, although my name still invites enquiry. Then in Thailand, I get asked every day, all day, why I speak such good Thai and no one will accept it when I just say I am Thai. I do find that very boring. I think it would be easier to be an expat.
How did you support your sons when they were getting started with their artistic endeavours? My elder son, Hugo, started earning his own money as soon as he left school through his acting. Then he started in a band and got signed by two record labels, one after the other, so was generally self-sufficient. Dominic is quite a bit younger and just starting out on his career. I am very pleased that he is very concerned about the environment and that that is the field in which he is working. How have you influenced their careers? I give encouragement and moral support and to both my sons, but try not to interfere too much. The main thing is to be there [to give] advice. I love having them around for dinner and going away on holiday together. Now Hugo has two sons of his own, so it is lovely to see my grandchildren and hang out with Hugo and Hana. What do you do to unwind? I have a very busy schedule, but I find being in my house and pottering about very relaxing. I also like going on the river and walking around the streets near my house. I have a two hour [route] I do, going by Wat Po into Suan Saranrom, through Wat Ratchabophit, to Wat Suthat and back. Where are your favourite places for a good meal in Bangkok? I eat at home [Chakrabongse Villas] a lot as the food is delicious. I am fond of Eat Me and also like the buffet at the Oriental. There is a good street food vendor on the corner of Pak Khlong Talad and I always eat Som Tum Kai Yang when I go to Chatuchak market. bangkok101.com
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hot plates
Indique By Craig Sauers
T
he bartender Varun Walia is a short, slender man with a Paul Bunyan beard. He carries a wooden tray to the table with some difficulty. What’s weighing it down is a skull-shaped glass brimming with pinkish liquid, ice cubes, and slices of California orange. As fearsome as it looks, its accomplice is the true star of the show: a shot glass, also skull-shaped, filled with whiskey. Walia grabs it, draining the contents into one of two metal drinking cups, the kind you might find on the street. In his wispy patois, he says something about flames and suddenly lights the booze on fire. He starts transferring it from cup to cup, higher and faster with each pour, the blue line of liquid reminiscent of pulled tea. With extravagant, show-stopping cocktails on the menu (B249 for signature drinks), some of which involve liquid nitrogen and parlour tricks, it’s easy to mistake Indique for Bangkok’s most recent molecular mixology bar. The cocktails, without question, are a major attraction — not only do they come with a performance, they also taste spectacular, especially the Chuski Margarita and Green Apple Martini with Mojito Foam — but it would be criminal to ignore what’s going on in the kitchen. Full of creative energy and passion for their work, Chef Sidakpreet Singh and Director Gurveer Sachdev are leading this ultra-modern, black- and gold-clad restaurant into exciting territory. They aren’t turning Indian cuisine on its head, but rather crafting a bold, provocative interpretation of its traditions. Take, for example, the duck samosas (B159). Outside of Kerala, duck remains a rare ingredient in Indian cooking, but the appetizer’s popularity suggests it should perhaps be used more frequently. The dish consists of four goldenrod triangles stuffed with shredded duck, chillies, garlic, and ginger, as well as two dipping sauces: a spiced mayonnaise and an Indian salsa. The samosas have a piquancy best described as “authentic.” They’re hot, in other words, and fantastic. In the chicken tikka cornetto (B209), the fusion of international muses really comes to light. Modelled after the ever-present ice cream cone and served in a white rickshaw (how ice cream is sold in India), the starter incorporates Thai style and one notable surprise, with Indian flavours. The chicken is cooked in a clay oven and shredded, giving it a texture like larb gai, and the cornetto is cold, thanks to a blast of liquid nitrogen. Similar techniques transform the fish n’ chips (B279). Deep-fried dory filets get a splash of colour and zing from mint foam and pickled onions. Eaten together, the flavour is like chutney; it contrasts the heat lurking in the Indian-spiced batter. Emblematic of the playful makeover of traditional dishes are the dahi ke kebabs (B249). Three spiced patties made from hung curd rest on of saffron- and pomegranate-tinted sauces, and pomegranate “caviar” sits on top of it all. The little red pearls erupt like roe when bitten. It’s a potpourri of flavours and textures, the tangy yoghurt contrasted by the sweet fruit balls and the cool chutneys that accompany the dish. Those who appreciate experimentation, but vilify a loss of authenticity, will love Indique. This isn’t molecular Indian food, and it isn’t very expensive, either: the pocket-friendly food and drinks are bursting with modern touches without eschewing India’s rich culinary heritage.
INDIQUE 28 Park Avenue, Sukhumvit 22 | 08 1425 4422 facebook.com/indiquebangkok | daily 11am-1am
16 | AUGUST 2015
bangkok101.com
Photography by ANIL SARDAR
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 17
Fresh cuts in the fresh air - but are you bold enough to get a tattoo at the same time? 18 | AUGUST 2015
bangkok101.com
out & about
CITY PU LSE
Curios, Collector’s Items, and Cold Drinks Have Turned Once Barren Tracts of Land into Weekend Destinations WORDS BY CRAIG SAUERS – PHOTOS BY QISHENG WANG
T
raffic is bumper to bumper on Srinakarin Road. Horns cry out as mall lights flicker to life against the backdrop of blue-gray sky. In parking lots, families file out of their Hondas and Hilux in their Saturday clothes. The streets are packed, the sidewalks more so, and people keep spilling out of little red songthaew parked in front of Seacon Square like office workers at the end of business hours. Near Soi 51, the regiment of shoppers march past an auto body repair shop and into a tunnel bordered by denim stores, dog groomers, and bars the size of karaoke lounges. The familiar chorus of Jason Mraz cover songs and loud, nasal chatter echoes against brick walls. Yellow bulbs illuminate the shops like individual theatres. At the end of the tunnel, the vista suddenly swells, unveiling a city-like expanse of open-air boutiques and food stalls — Talad Rot Fai, the now-famous train market. On weekends, the train market draws teens and tweens, expats and antique hounds, beer geeks, music lovers, and skateboarders alike. What started as a site for antique shopping has run the gauntlet and come out the other side as a destination for every shade of the rank and file. Five years ago, the market was little more than one man, Phirot Roikaew, and a tract of land in Jatujak owned by the State Railway of Thailand. In that abandoned zone of red dirt and dried grass he set up his shop, Rod’s Antiques. Then, some of his merchant friends, who also dealt in antiques, asked to join him. Others soon followed. Before long, a colourful, Chaucerian world of a market
had formed, where street food and used shoes were as abundant as turn-of-the-century antiques and Japanese figurines. The laid-back vibe of its unpretentious bars appealed to more and more visitors, and so it earned a reputation as a relaxed spot to spend a night in the company of friends with a soundtrack of cover songs and soft indie rock. After the market was unexpectedly evicted, it reappeared on the eastern limits of Bangkok on a plot nearly twice the size of its original location. On any given Friday or Saturday night — even in monsoon season, despite the threat of impending storms — thousands of pleasure-seekers (or gluttons for punishment) fill out the market’s 60 rai. Past the introductory food and shopping zone, which could stand alone as a market, Talad Rot Fai opens into the massive bazaar which attracts its regulars and rookies. Here, the narrow lanes of vendors incorporate elements of the modern Thai night market. For sale are smart phone accessories, sweaters and shirts for small pets, cheap graphic tees, and all manner of chintz. To one side of the canopies sits the new home of Rod’s Antiques, a brick-walled treasure trove of goods. On the other side is a covered food centre that extends along a driving range, where everything from ice cream to fried chicken and pla pao form a potpourri of pungent aromas. The main attraction, however, is the “Warehouse Zone,” through which an open concourse runs where teens ride BMX bikes and skateboard between cigarette breaks. The shops here house a hoarder’s attic of
Oh!! Antique at Talad Rot Fai Ratchada
Bites and booze at the Warehouse
bangkok101.com
AUGUST 2015 | 19
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out & about
Welcome to the jungle: there are over 2000 shops at Talad Rot Fai antiques — vintage bar signs from America, threadbare dolls, random spare car parts, scooters, chairs, clocks: even, occasionally, old parking metres — and the barrestaurants provide extra space for live bands to perform. Special events are often held in this zone, including concerts featuring relatively big-name Thai bands, like Paradox. The warehouses continue the traditions set forth by the original venue, giving outsiders a different view of Bangkok’s nightlife. The escalators are practically empty. From the platform to the ticket booth, the path is open and clear. White light and a smell like vinyl and lavender perfume may give the MRT all the splendour of a hospital corridor, but it’s an appropriate comparison — the entire train system is sterile and organized, a foil to the intimate, sweat-inducing songthaew and buses that link Sukhumvit Road to Srinakarin. There are even signs pointing the way to Talad Rot Fai Ratchada. Emerging from the underground offers a stark contrast to the antiseptic MRT. Smoke rises from the grill of a sausage vendor parked on the sidewalk at the mouth of the exit. From there, traffic grinds to a halt as the footpath further congests. Flowers, fresh coconut water, plastic toys. The vendors capitalize on the thousands who pass by Wednesday through Sunday, but also clog the artery. Though it’s only been around since January, the latest incarnation of the train market is already a hit. Mimicking the mystique of its sprawling big brother, this smaller, second version deals in cheap and vintage clothes, stunning and occasionally creepy antiques, and lots of food and drinks. 20 | AUGUST 2015
An array of colourful canopies — red, orange, yellow, green, sky and navy blue — lit up from the inside like circus balloons distinguishes the flat concrete surface behind the veritably Himalayan Esplanade. The bric-a-brac section (i.e. the canopy zone) is flanked by a glassencased building selling niche home décor and antiques at one end, and a line of brick-and-mortar shops dealing clothes, haircuts, tattoos, and even more memorabilia on either side of it. One shop in particular, Oh!! Antique, draws a coterie of discerning collectors; its centuries-old goods are one-of-a-kind. While the shopping options follow a tried and true formula, the food and drinks differentiate this train market from the other. A community of bars and restaurants line the perimeter of the market. The smorgasbord of options includes Holy Cheese, which serves Asian-inspired grilled cheese sandwiches on homemade bread, and its neighbouring garden café, where Italian-style sodas wash down all the cheese; a couple of pop-ups pushing American food, like burgers, ribs, and pizzas; Thai street snacks and meals to share; and sushi. Tables are low, or old oil barrels, or the hoods of vintage cars. The crowds fill them early and then flock to the bars. The expected VW pop-ups, as well as more permanent, two-story structures, offer happy hours and buy-three-get-one deals that suggest the market might be just as comfortable if it were to evolve into a nightlife district. From one night to the next, from the suburbs to the city centre, the two shades of Talad Rot Fai continue to transform the city’s recreational possibilities. Whether they’re window shopping, on the search for a good meal, or simply hanging out, the masses can settle in to one dynamic destination. bangkok101.com
Discover the true taste of Italy with direct access from Surasak BTS Station
“VALUE” Set Lunch Available 2 courses – THB 440 net 3 courses – THB 520 net
Luce Italian Restaurant
Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok 33/1 South Sathorn Road, Bangkok 10120 BTS Station: Surasak Tel: 02 210 8100 LuceRestaurantBangkok
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Treat your mom to painting lessons over a glass of wine - just don’t mix your reds and whites 22 | AUGUST 2015
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Celebrate Mother’s Day a Little Differently This Year BY PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA
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emember the days when you couldn’t sleep without your mom telling you a bedtime story? When you couldn’t do anything without her by your side? Mother’s Day is not just about picking up something from the mall to give as a token of your appreciation. What makes the day truly special is spending time with your mom, because there is no better present than having you, the apple of her eye, with her. Wine, Workshops, and Portable Gardens Strengthen the bond between you and your mom by working on a project together. Bangkok offers a potpourri of classes and workshops that will stoke your creativity, giving you new hobbies to practice as a team at home.
Gulliver’s garden in a glass container bangkok101.com
Unleash your inner artist at Jeedwonder. Here, you can design your own little plot of green in the terrarium workshop. Start by choosing your plants and then let your imagination run wild within the glass container. Jeedwonder also has many other classes your mom might want to try, including scrapbooking, flower arrangement, and coffee painting. Does your mom enjoy a drink every now and then? If so, Paintbar Bangkok might be up her alley. At this three-hour workshop, you and mom can sip from a glass of wine (or beer, if you prefer) while trying to replicate that day’s subject. Professional instructors give you stepby-step directions, as well as a rundown on technique, before you put paint to canvas. After that, let your creativity flow.
Channel your inner bartender at The Alchemist AUGUST 2015 | 23
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Enjoy a casual Sunday ride at Peppermint Bike Park
Age is just a number at Urban Playground If you’re looking for a class with a little more vigour, ask your mom to join you at The Alchemist. Here, you learn how to build a cocktail from the masters. You can choose from classic cocktails straight out of The Alchemist’s recipe book, or you can design your own favourite drink. Equipment and ingredients are prepared for you, and, of course, the bartenders are happy to lend a hand as needed. Activities for the Adventurous If your mom is like many others the world over, she has spent her fair share of time inside doing chores (sometimes, perhaps, your chores). Now that you’re older, take her out for an exhilarating activity that tells her just how much you appreciate her hard work. Wakeboarding, surfing, and now rock climbing. What doesn’t Bangkok have? Urban Playground features over 650 square metres of indoor climbing space, facilities ranging from a bouldering wall and bouldering cave to a 12 metre top-rope climbing, and activities that include a onehour introduction to climbing class. Whether your mom is an experienced climber or a first-timer, this ought to test her limits. Urban Playground provides many other ways to get the blood pumping, too, such as racquetball courts, a swimming pool, a yoga studio, saunas, and tennis courts. Grab your bikes, clips, and helmets and head to Peppermint Bike Park. There are two courses here: the normal paved lane and a more challenging elevated mountain bike track that contains a wooden bridge, curved path, and rolling slopes. It’s car-free, utterly safe and sound, 24 | AUGUST 2015
Exploring the city’s hidden gems so relax and chitchat with your mom without concern. Or race to see who can complete a lap first. The park welcomes all types of riders, competitive or otherwise. Learn about Your Neighbourhood There’s no better way to spend a Mother’s Day than by getting out, letting your hair down, and exploring Bangkok’s nooks and crannies. Follow Me Bangkok Bicycle Tours seeks places unseen, taking you to taste street food, interact with the locals, and experience the real Bangkok, day or night. Co van Kessel Bangkok Tours, with over 30 years of experience, delivers an equally electric travel experience on two wheels. Options include night tours of the Old Town, trips through Chinatown’s narrow alleys, or day-long rides through Bang Krachiao, the “green lung.” If cycling seems a little too intense, Co van Kessel also offers walking and boat tours. Launching from the Yodpiman River Walk, Yodsiam Boat takes you on a tour of the Chao Phraya riverside. Among the attractions are floating markets, the Artist’s House (Baan Silapin), and temples from the Ayutthaya period. The tour operates both bike and canal tours in and around Bangkok. If you’re looking for a snapshot of the slow life, check out Pandan Tour. The highlight of the trip, no doubt, is the visit to Thonburi, where you and mom can soak up the rapidly disappearing traditional Thai way of living. The tour lets you delve into history, culture, and society. What’s more, you can retreat from the hustle and bustle within the wonderful scenery of orchards and farms along the canal. bangkok101.com
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Special meals with your special lady A Holiday for Gourmets Finding a perfect gift for your mother isn’t always easy, but treating her to a delicious meal is an effortless answer to the struggle. Good food in great company. What could be better? A bunch of restaurants are serving up fantastic Mother’s Day deals for the city’s most special women, and one particular dining experience isn’t limited to August 12 alone — it gives you a chance to treat mom throughout the month. The InterContinental Bangkok’s ground-level restaurant, Espresso, is offering a full brunch buffet on August 12. Treat the woman who raised you to a wonderful spread that includes a Wagyu station and an oyster bar, as well as seafood delicacies like Australian black mussels, tiger prawns, and Alaska king crab. All moms get one complimentary glass of sparkling wine at the brunch, too. On the same day, Summer Palace, the hotel’s Cantonese outlet, is serving all-you-can-eat dim sum from 11.30am until 2.30pm. Also on August 12, Miss Siam Restaurant at Hua Chang Heritage is offering a fabulous buffet of Thai food with free-flow Thai herbal drinks to boot. Mothers receive a complimentary Thai set dinner when accompanied by four or more guests. The Westin Grande Sukhumvit is serving exquisite Mother’s Day lunch and dinner buffets at Seasonal Tastes. The feasts include live cooking stations, a sushi bar, a selection of fresh seafood, and an Italian corner. For every adult lunch buffet, two children (10 and under) dine free. Moms get half-price all day. 26 | AUGUST 2015
Visit Mistral at the Pullman G on August 12 for a brunch buffet that includes pasta, barbecue, seafood, and more. Mothers dine free and receive a special gift from the restaurant (one per table). Throughout the month, from Tuesday to Saturday, enjoy a unique sensory experience with your mother at Dine in the Dark at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. Without any light, not even from your phone or tablet, Dine in the Dark is a special opportunity for you two to bond.
For more information, including prices and schedules, visit: • jeedwonder.com • paintbarbangkok.com • thealchemistbkk.com • urbanplaygroundclimbing.com • facebook.com/peppermintbikepark • followmebiketour.com • covankessel.com • yodsiamboat.com • thaicanaltour.com • bangkok.intercontinental.com • huachangheritagehotel.com • westingrandesukhumvit.com • pullmanbangkokhotelg.com • didexperience.com
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28 | AUGUST 2015
making merit
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making merit
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Goodwill Group Foundation Empowering Underprivileged Thai Women through Education
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hen the sun rises, the lights fade. Traces of the night exist only in the air. The smell of stale alcohol, wet cigarettes, and despair permeates the sex industry. For women who move to Bangkok in search of a better life for themselves and their families, this scene — this smell — is never what they had imagined. Yet year in, year out, thousands of Thai women migrate to the capital, anyway, often without formal education or the training needed to find sustainable work outside the demimonde. Fifteen years ago, Enrique Cuan established the Goodwill Group Foundation to teach English to disadvantaged Thai women. Most of the students had come from upcountry, especially Ubon Ratchathani, and were stuck in a cycle of irregular and underpaid work. Not all were sex workers, and not all would be, but the decisions they had to grapple with were nevertheless disheartening. Dreams of sending money to family disappeared as the reality of life in Bangkok sank in, and the opportunities that once seemed so abundant were whittled to few. After four years in operation, the team at Goodwill realized they could have a greater impact through their work — that they had the ability to empower women while still providing free English language courses. Soon, Goodwill expanded the scope of its programmes to provide personal and career development, from vocational training to mentoring and even women’s health classes. “Approximately 80 per cent of the women we serve have irregular work, in which they face an insecure income [each month] and a lack of social welfare,” says Orapan Pratomlek, or Kate, who works as the office manager of the private non-profit. “We build their capacity through programmes like rights and laws for domestic workers, job interview practice, salary negotiation, and professional training for nannies and domestic workers. In addition, we also offer job placement to help to our students find better work with fairer conditions.” Students range from 15 to 35 years in age. Some are mothers. Others provide for their families despite being mired in poverty. Some are sex workers. Others struggle to stay out bangkok101.com
of the industry. Some are migrants or dropouts or adults who never had the opportunity to go to school. “We believe that education can come in many channels and forms, [and so] we offer training designed to improve our students’ marketable skills. Many women we serve are able to become employed in skilled labour even though they only finished primary school.” Among the courses offered at Goodwill are English and computer training. With the ability to communicate and use a computer proficiently, many women have found jobs as receptionists or administrative workers. Some have become personal assistants, nannies, or domestic workers for foreign employers, thanks to English, first aid, and selfdefence skills. They have also been able to ask for raises and negotiate better working conditions. Long odds have lessened. Still, the illusion of easy money lingers like a desert mirage. “We don’t try to convince our students [to stay out of the sex industry], but we do provide them with advice and guidance and access to other options to encourage them to choose their own future,” says Kate. Despite not recruiting or advertising, Goodwill is seeing more and more women enrolling in its programmes, thanks to recommendations from friends, current students, and volunteers. It has also gained familiarity by working closely with community leaders and schools to prevent women and girls from falling into the hands of human traffickers, risking exploitation and violence. In 2011, a second branch of Goodwill opened in Ubon Ratchathani. It was designed to give high school girls crucial information they migrate to Bangkok, without sufficient skills or planning, to look for work. Women are then guided to the main branch in Bangkok, where they have a support system and can continue learning. As Kate says, “Education is the best long-term investment.”
As well as English language teachers, Goodwill always seeks qualified volunteers with specific skills in self-defence, first aid and CPR, marketing, and fundraising. Those interested in volunteering should visit goodwillthailand.org and send their résumés to goodwill@goodwillbangkok.org. AUGUST 2015 | 29
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on the block
Sizzling soi Suan Phlu BY GABY DOMAN
Staying local is the new going out, which suits us just fine because most of the time we’re too lazy to even consider taking the BTS. After all, nobody wants to trek across the city for a decent cup of coffee or a night out drinking great cocktails. There are a few relatively “new” neighbourhoods making their mark in the city and, being the ever devoted journalists we are, we decided to take their best venues for a spin, starting with the recent hipster favourite, Suan Phlu, which toes the line perfectly between trendy and a little bit down at heel. 30 | AUGUST 2015
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on the block
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ome to Suan Phlu hungry. Despite its growing reputation as one of the city’s favourite spots to hang out, restaurants are still reasonably priced. Best of all, they show a little originality. Uncle John is something of a cult venue, serving up both French and Thai cuisine from two neighbouring Suan Phlu locations — one with a street-side open kitchen and the other with an indoor dining area. Bangkok’s love affair with all things French is usually a pricey business, but this low key (read: a bit shabby) restaurant serves up tasty French fare at a fraction of the prices you’d usually expect to pay. If French cuisine doesn’t cut le mustard with you, Nando (nope, not the fried chicken place) dishes hefty portions of no-frills Italian food on a handful of outdoor tables. This family-run venue offers a reasonably lengthy menu of homemade pizza, pasta, and a few other authentic dishes, as well as a handful of desserts. But the real charm of the place is the friendly service from Nando himself. Recently, Fred Meyer (of Issaya, Namsaah, and Pizza Massilia fame) opened Kom-Ba-Wa in a Suan Phlu shophouse. The Japanese joint serves what he says is “food I’d like to eat.” It’s also food that we would like to eat. The menu is full of creative dishes, silky smooth sushi, and must-try desserts. A trip to Suan Phlu isn’t complete without a cocktail or two. In fact, let’s be real — a trip to just about anywhere bangkok101.com
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isn’t complete without a cocktail pit stop. But Suan Phlu’s nightlife venues are more notable than most. Junker & Bar is a seductive little spot. Though the bar is small, its cocktail credentials are spot on, as W Hotel’s former mixologist, Bard Passapong, runs the place. He has a passion for gin, so expect to find some weird and wonderful bottles in stock. There’s also a rotating line of potent Thai craft beer available, such as the spooky-labelled Pheebok. Still hungry? The bar stocks shamelessly greasy American fast food and Thai chicken wings. Pretty hard to resist after a cocktail or two. Taking the wind out of Wongs’s sails, Smalls is the new go-to after-hours venue for the discerning drinker. Quiet, cool, serving great drinks (with polite service), and without the notorious cloying smoke found in Wong’s, this venue is a no-brainer when it comes to a late night tipple. For those headed there a little earlier, stepping through its revolving doors will reveal a charming slice of 1920s Paris. Think smooth live jazz, chic décor, and an impressive array of absinthe and accompanying paraphernalia and sugar cubes. Be warned: Small’s prides itself on its big pours —45ml versus the typical 37.5ml pour — so you might leave a little more squiffy than you set out to. The venue has three levels, but it’s the rooftop (sadly sans amazing view) that really sets this place apart: a rooftop bar without pretention is a rare find in Bangkok. Smalls is one of those gems that’s just as perfect for a Tinder date as it is a messy night out with friends. AUGUST 2015 | 31
SILK IS WOVEN INTO THE FABRIC OF THAI SOCIETY
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Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON SILK
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hen I was young, a poem piqued my curiosity about silk. Sailor Poem, written by Eleanor Farjeon, an English author, starts as follows: “My sweetheart’s a Sailor, He sails on the sea. When he comes home, He brings presents for me; Coral from china, Silks from Siam, Parrots and Pearls, From Seringapatam…” Never mind where Seringpatam was. I wondered why Thai silks were so sought-after, because at the time most Thais didn’t wear silk, let alone use items made from it. In the past, sericulture — the process of creating raw silk by raising silkworms — was practiced by farmers during the dry season, when they would not have to tend to their rice fields. Now it’s done year-round, and the luxurious silk items that used to be worn chiefly during formal ceremonies are as abundant as Thai smiles. Across the world, lustrous silk pieces appear in fashion and enhance interior décor. They are not only collected for their beauty, but also for their historical, social, and cultural significance. Silk sumptuously wraps around our lives like a gigantic cocoon. The name most often associated with Thai silk is Jim Thompson, a former CIA agent turned entrepreneur who disappeared in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia. To many, the enigmatic Thompson seemed to have singlehandedly revived the industry. Even I have bought some of his accessories and souvenirs as presents over the years. In fact, I used to join the masses queuing up for garage sales at the main store. However, true credit for bringing Thai textiles to the fore belongs to one of history’s icons of style, HM Queen Sirikit. Through her Support Foundation, as well as her various projects, HM has helped improve the lives of silkweavers from far-flung villages nationwide. She has also directed consumer attention to high-quality Thai products. A multitude of annual sales and fairs see silk-lovers rushing en masse to purchase the best and finest silks selected by HM’s foundations, especially the award-winning pieces emblazoned with Royal Peacock logos. HM’s latest project saw the foundation of the Museum of Textiles on the grounds of the Grand Palace. The museum highlights her many endeavours and houses some of her royal costumes from the past, some in classic Thai style and others Western. Haute couture luminaries, such as Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, and Givenchy, bangkok101.com
made some of the most magnificent of the collection. With designers like that, it is no wonder HM Queen Sirikit frequently landed on the International Best-Dressed List. In line with popular sentiment, I used to think that Thai silks were too clingy to wear in the subtropical Thai climate. They were also hard to take care of and not suitable for daily wear. I watched my parents don silk like armour before they would attend formal functions, such as religious rites at temples, weddings, receptions, funeral wakes, and cremations. My father would dress up in a “Seua Phrarajathan” made from ikat silk, a dead ringer for the ones worn by former Prime Minister Prem Tinsulanonda, while my mother would appeal to traditional feminine sensibilities in pastel or gemstone shades of silk tube skirts matched with lace blouses. When I was eleven, my mother gave me my first piece of silk from Jim Thompson. I had it made into a shirt and wore it until it was threadbare. I was officially converted. Since then, I have fallen under a silk spell. Similar to tailored suits, silk apparel feels soft and supple on skin. The material flows alluringly. It is iridescent, light, comfortable, and versatile. I use silk and ethnic clothing for all kinds of occasions. For decades, my “uniform” has been a shirt worn with a pair of silk fisherman’s trousers. The look has come to define my signature style. For official events, I wear a silk shirt-jacket that looks a lot like the attire my father used to wear. As they say, one eventually turns into one’s parents. It’s only a matter of time. Recently, younger generations have reinterpreted Thai national costumes for their fashion repertoire. Patriotism is stylishly expressed in silks and accessorized with gold jewellery for a splash of contemporary flair. This most recent national costume craze occurred in 1997, when the regional economy crashed. After being bombarded by designer fashion in the 80s and 90s, we revisited our roots and rediscovered the beauty of silk — of wearing something Thai again. High society ladies and hipsters have begun to shop and appear at parties dressed to the nines in classic Thai style, be it jongkrabaen (similar to the Indian dhoti), jeepnhanang (a tube skirt with a pleated front), or sarongs. While the backlash against high design doubles as a celebration of Thai culture, still I wonder. Will this trend will be as ephemeral as the lifecycle of the silkworm? AUGUST 2015 | 33
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Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
PLOENCHIT’S TOWER OF GREEN ALTERNATIVE COMMERCIAL DESIGN REIGNS OVER EMBASSY ROW AT PARK VENTURES ECOPLEX.
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t first glance, the 34-floor edifice at the intersection of Ploenchit and Withayu Roads — which by any measure must be one of the most prime commercial locations in the Thai capital — appears to be just another slick glass-and-steel skyscraper piercing Bangkok’s ever-rising skyline. Four years of steady construction passed before Park Ventures Ecoplex was quietly unveiled on the five-rai plot in January 2012. What sets the edifice apart from most other denizens of the urban jungle is a comprehensive design dedicated to reduced energy consumption, healthier office working conditions, and more environmentally friendly building materials and construction technology. Before the project even broke ground, principal personalities representing owners (Univentures/Park 34 | AUGUST 2015
Ventures) and the design team (architecture by Palmer & Turner, construction management by Thai Obayashi, and landscaping by P Landscape) met to develop “a new communicative culture” for the Ecoplex project, with the intention of creating what is now hailed as Thailand’s most comprehensive building management system. Thai Obayashi project manager Prasert Chalermratananon recalled that the process was a fulfilling challenge from the start. “Park Ventures wanted us to do in-depth research analysis on several innovative green building systems,” says Chalermratananon. “They paid attention to the smallest construction details to ensure the greatest precision of work.” To start with, 25 percent of the site is given over to bangkok101.com
highlight green space, encompassing a large garden off the 8th floor, as well as a larger rooftop garden. According to Univentures managing director Thanapol Sirithanachai, “The overarching concept covered not only design, architecture, interior decoration, and landscaping, but also every other aspect of development and construction for the Ecoplex. “We installed carbon dioxide sensors, which automatically activate ventilation fans when the amount of carbon dioxide in an area exceeds certain levels, and natural light balancing sensors that adjust indoor lighting by the level of incoming natural light.” A significant side objective of this approach was to obtain Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design (LEED) certification. LEED is an internationally recognised green building certification system, providing third-party verification that a building or community was designed and built using strategies intended to improve performance in metrics such as energy savings, water efficiency, carbon dioxide emissions reduction, improved indoor environmental quality, and stewardship of resources and sensitivity to their impacts. Worldwide to date, LEED has registered over 7,000 buildings. Thailand now boasts more than a dozen. Most are retrofits or rebuilds. Park Ventures was granted LEED Gold certification when it opened in 2012, one of only three completely new office complexes in Bangkok which incorporated LEED-certified eco-designs. In 2013, Park Ventures was upgraded to Platinum, LEED’s highest level of certification. LEED favours projects that are undertaken in already developed urban areas to cut down on urban encroachment into natural areas outside the city and to take advantage of existing mass transit systems. Park Ventures’ location adjacent to Ploenchit BTS and city bus lines neatly fulfils these criteria. Offices with exterior windows have glazed, triple-pane glass walls allowing light to penetrate the interior. Low-E glazing helps reduce ingress of sound, light, and heat, reducing air conditioning usage in tandem with a Variable Air Volume (VAV) system, which adjusts temperature in shaded areas. The crystal grey glass, produced by Viracon in the United States, cost over 500 million baht. With its thermal transfer value of 30 watts per square metre, the glass should reduce electricity consumption for air-con 30 percent below standard. Building Automatic System (BAS) monitors and controls energy consumption. Sensors dim electrical lights nearest the sun during the day while motion sensors illuminate meeting rooms only when occupied. The lighting system makes use of energy-efficient LED and T5 technology, reducing power costs by an estimated 15 percent. The building’s water systems automatically recycle grey water to be used for gardening. Park Ventures is also equipped with a “smart” elevator system that takes passengers to their destination floor in 40 seconds or less. The gently undulating, curvilinear shape of the building is intended to evoke the phanom wai — the traditional Thai greeting gesture — to engender respect and hospitality. Glass-panel designs atop the high-rise were inspired by bangkok101.com
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the lotus, the Buddhist symbol representing coolness and calm. Most of the building is dedicated to grade A office space, with a lower zone extending from level 8 to level 16 and a high zone from level 17 to 22, for a total of 27,000 square metres. The average office space measures between 1,900 and 2,000 square metres, and all feature a spacious ceiling height of 2.9 square metres. Knockout panels in the floors and ceilings allow tenants the option of installing private inter-floor stairs to avoid using the lifts for one-floor hops. The eighth level of the building consists of the Victor Club, a common area used for reception and office services. To evoke the “club” ambience, the décor includes stacks of old books on a long shelf along one side of the main room, along with a ray of small reproduction 19th-century telescopes. Seating areas are furnished with contemporary chairs upholstered in eyepleasing black herringbone with brown piping. Some of the walls are made of smooth wooden slats “woven” together to resemble enlarged bamboo thatch patterns, adding a stylised native touch. One large corner of this level is devoted to Victor Link, a state-of-the-art meeting space equipped with the latest audiovisual systems, WiFi, LCD projectors and motorised drop screens, video conference facilities, digital signage, a large circular table with comfortable leather chairs, and full secretarial services. Windows slant outward from the floor to cut glare, similar to the array common to airport control towers. The view over Withayu Rd to the south is considerably enhanced by the abundant trees and foliage along embassy row. A spacious terrace called Victor Gardens, accessed from Victor Club, offers a pleasant green area planted with trees — each of them labelled with its common and botanical names. Tenants can take a relaxing outdoor walk here, or recline on one of the wooden deck chairs arranged in a long row to one side. Park Ventures has its own Skywalk linking Ploenchit BTS with the 2nd level. There is also a parking structure with a capacity of 580 cars on levels two through seven. Aside from the office space, the building boasts the five-star, 242-room Okura Prestige Bangkok, one of the region’s most environmentally-friendly hotels. The hotel occupies 11 floors (level 22 to 33, with guest rooms from level 25 upwards) of the building. Meanwhile, the first and second floors at Park Ventures are given over to 1,000 square metres of retail space. The Park Ventures Ecoplex project has helped inspire a business alliance amongst Krungsri Group, Central Embassy, Noble Ploenchit, and Nai Lert Group to develop a new identity, “Ploenchit City,” for the Ploenchit Rd-Wireless Rd neighbourhood. The collaboration intends to promote the area as a new premium business district in the capital. Because part of Park Ventures’s mission is to educate the public about ecological building technology, the building hosts a tour program that highlights the importance of green building techniques, green project management, eco-design, and how LEED works. Anyone interested in learning more about the building can call 0 2643 7193 to arrange a tour. AUGUST 2015 | 35
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Bizarre
Thailand
A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.
7 SOUNDBYTES AND SWAN SONGS FROM ROCK HISTORY IN THAILAND
In this entry from his blog, Jim Algie tunes in to some notable moments from music history that happened in Thailand, from the Clash, Pogues, and Michael Jackson to Kurt Cobain’s photographer. The Last Clash The photo on the cover of Combat Rock, the biggest-selling album released by The Clash, was shot on a railway line just outside Bangkok. The capital was the last stop on a world tour that screeched to a halting finale in 1982. After a show at Thammasat University, the formidable foursome from England opted for some R ‘n’ R in Bangkok that quickly turned calamitous. Drummer Topper Headon, soon to be kicked out for heroin addiction, relapsed, while bass-slayer and heartthrob Paul Simonon came down with a tropical malady; lead guitarist Mick Jones, who would only stick around for one more album, went AWOL; and the band’s leader Joe Strummer hit the go-go bars on an extended bender. Far from behaving like the left-leaning radicals who made the triple album and rallying cry Sandanista, the group ended up emulating the GIs they scorned in songs like “Charlie Don’t Surf” (a line pilfered from Apocalypse Now). When photographer Pennie Smith, who also shot the cover for London Calling that shows Simonon smashing his bass, convened the Combat Rock photo session on the railway tracks, she said it was like watching the end of the line for punk’s most revolutionary act. After six years of racking up the miles and tour stops as relentless road warriors, The Clash met their Waterloo in Bangkok. Bong Rock Years before Murray Head’s annoyingly catchy “One Night in Bangkok” pricked up the ears (and some nether regions) of listeners around the world, Rush, the prog-rock brontosauruses from Canada, were likely the first Western band to reference the capital in a song. “A 36 | AUGUST 2015
Passage to Bangkok” appeared on their breakout album 2112 from 1976. Still a staple of the group’s concerts, the track is an ode to hashish and marijuana that is half-baked in 1970s’ slang and sly references to “golden Acapulco nights”. The verses make stopovers in Bogota, Jamaica, Morocco, Afghanistan and Kathmandu, but the chorus reeks of “Thai stick”: “We’re on the train to Bangkok/Aboard the Thailand Express/We’ll hit the stops along the way/We only stop for the best.” Elegy in Blue Art Porter became a jazz legend-in-themaking at the age of 16 when the future US president Bill Clinton, a fellow saxophonist and then governor general of Arkansas, pushed for legislation to allow underage musicians to perform in the state’s clubs. That historic law became known as the “Art Porter Bill”. The musician was at the apex of his tremendous abilities during a performance at the Golden Jubilee Jazz Festival that gripped Bangkok in 1996. As the main music critic for The Nation at the time I can testify that Porter and his band blew most of the other acts away with an upbeat set melding funk, soul and be-bop. It was rare to see a jazzman with a rock star’s sense of showmanship and stagecraft. Two days later, on a holiday outing, he went for a boat ride on the Sai Yok Reservoir in Kanchanaburi province. After the boat sank under conditions that remain murky, the musician and several other tourists drowned. Porter was only 35 and left two young children behind in the tragedy’s wake. bangkok101.com
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Photo by Masao Nakagami
Thai Muses For fans of The Pogues’ lead wastrel, Shane McGowan, it should come as no surprise that Thailand used to be a favourite stop on his Far Eastern tours of debauchery. On the group’s last album before he departed, Hell’s Ditch (1990), produced by Joe Strummer, the Irishman wrote two songs about the country: “Summer in Siam” is a languid ballad, while the surf rock “House of the Gods” sings the praises of Pattaya Beach, Singha beer and local lasses. The lyrics put a Thai slant on The Kinks’ “Lola” as the intoxicated protagonist picks up a woman only to flee in horror when he finds out that “she” is a ladyboy. Sonic Boon Before the economic earthquake of ‘97, which started in Thailand and soon rippled across Asia, silenced the live music scene in Bangkok, the metropolis had served as a one-night bandstand for incredible triple bills like the Foo Fighters, Sonic Youth and the Beastie Boys, as well as stellar shows by Smashing Pumpkins, Suede, Mudhoney opening for Pearl Jam, and hoarier, more hirsute rockers like Black Sabbath (sans Ozzy Osbourne). During those sonic boom years of double-digit growth, when the capital briefly shed its unsound image as a centre of karaoke and processed-cheese cover bands, Michael Jackson caused the loudest commotion. For that August 1993 show, some 40,000 fans were sardined into the National Stadium. During his stint in Bangkok, Jackson and his entourage took over an entire floor of the Oriental Hotel. It was the superstar’s most high-profile segment of the “Dangerous” tour. A story in the Bangkok Post summed up the melee and conflicting moods of the time: “Millions watched vicariously, if not queasily as the king of pop ignored the growing storm of child-abuse allegations back in America, and hung around Thailand for the better part of a week. He hid under the then-famous black Fedora and behind a phalanx of bodyguards on a million-baht shopping tour, marched with handsome young graduating cadets at the military school, and of course posed with poor children.” For alt.rock aficionados, the Radiohead gig in the hall above the MBK mall hit the highest notes of the mid-90s. So many fans were leaping up and down to the songs off their just-released debut album Pablo Honey that the ceiling began to buckle. Escorting half the group back to their hotel, they granted me an interview in the back of a tuk-tuk. Guitarist Ed O’Brien said: “That was the happiest audience we’ve ever played to. Who smiles along to a song like ‘Creep’?” Audio Visuals Two of England’s most renowned music photographers from the late ‘80s and early ‘90s have used Thailand as their home base and darkroom for the last decade. Simon Larbalestier’s reputation is framed by the iconoclastic bangkok101.com
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covers he shot for The Pixies’ albums Surfer Rosa, Doolittle and Bossanova. More recently, he contributed images to a 72-page booklet included with the band’s boxed set Minotaur. Martyn Goodacre, who once worked for the NME and Loaded, resides on Koh Samui. His portfolio includes images of the late INXS singer Michael Hutchence posing with his Ferrari, Shane McGowan, Beck, and one of the most reproduced images of Kurt Cobain. Shot in 1990 when Nirvana was still a subterranean phenomenon, and four years before the singer went out with a big bang, Goodacre recalled the shoot over the phone from his home in Samui: “Kurt was a tiny little guy who seemed quite miserable and hardly spoke two words. Actually, I remember taking this photo quite clearly because in all the others his eyes were a bit squinty, but then he opened them up completely.” Requiem for a Rock Band In April 1982, the original line-up of The Pretenders played their swansong set in Bangkok. After returning to England, the group ousted their bassist Pete Farndon for rampant drug abuse. Two days later, guitarist James Honeyman Scott, 25, died of cocaine-induced heart failure. As the final riff in this requiem, Farndon drowned in his bathtub after a heroin overdose only a year later. At the time of his demise, he had been trying to put a new band together with fellow junkie Topper Headon, formerly of The Clash. The emotional overtones of the group’s next single, “Back on the Chain Gang,” echo the grief and resilience of singer and rhythm guitarist Chrissie Hynde. “I found a picture of you what hijacked my world that night/To a place in the past we’ve been cast out of/Now we’re back in the fight.” In that wistful voice of hers, Chrissie claims in the last verse, “Those were the happiest days of my life.” In 2004, The Pretenders played their first gig in Thailand since the original band’s curtain call. In the middle of the set, Hynde, who was backed by drummer Martin Chambers (the only other founding member and survivor), paid homage to her fallen band mates. The following year when Neil Young officially inducted them into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, she saluted them once again. “And we’re paying tribute to James Honeyman Scott and Pete Farndon, without whom we wouldn’t be here. And on the other hand, without us, they might have been here, but that’s the way it works in rock ‘n’ roll.” This blog excerpt comes from the author of Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Sex, Crime and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourist attractions.
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POTTED GARDENS PORTABLE PLANTS FOR LUCK AND LIFESTYLE PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH
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n a land where greenery effortlessly grows, and petals are considered most beautiful on a garland, need the flowerbed be more than a practical plantation? Experts like MR Kukrit Pramoj have doubted there is even such a thing as the Thai garden, finding few indigenous traits among the broad adoption of Chinese concepts, Japanese techniques, English lawns, French geometry, and colonial-style plantings of tropical flora. Judging by the mish-mash of styles, Thai gardening seems a matter of pot luck. Pots and luck, to be precise. …Proof of pots dating from Ayutthayan times lie in the epic tale Khun Chang Khun Phaen, one of several literary sources that influence plant choice even today. Most public and private spaces still favour pots over beds for flowers, herbs, bushes or trees. They line balconies, dangle from eaves, and burst through caged-in roof gardens. Even clinging plants get potted — orchids spring from slatted wooden baskets, creepers bind to
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
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dangling coconut husks. When flanking an entrance, garlanding a stage or massed to depict imagery, pot plants express a Thai preference for strict control over nature. The spectacular banks of flowers and turf along Bangkok’s Ratchadamnoen Avenue turn out to be made from thousands of tessellated pots where you can barely spot the joins. Amid barren concrete, pot plants bring beauty and civility. Hence the foliage sprouting from plastic cups, bottles, and even old light bulbs tied to lamp posts at some motorcycle taxi ranks. Yet the urge to pot is not just urban but rural, canal-side and coastal. Looking closer, patterns emerge. Most of the ceramic pots follow a few standard styles; certain plants grow in the same positions in different gardens. You can barely enter any premises without passing the eight-bloomed Crown of Thorns, known to Thais by its Chinese name poi sian, meaning eight divinities.
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
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SCALA’S GOT SOUL THE LAST VESTIGE OF THE CINEMA’S GLORY DAYS IN BANGKOK BY LUC CITRINOT
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t was on the gallows. The iconic Scala was ready to be razed. In 2012, the board of directors at Chulalongkorn University, which owns the land where the theatre sits, nearly won a case that would have enabled them to demolish not only the cinema, but also the entire Siam Square area, to make way for more profit-making malls and offices. It was a heart-breaking possibility. Thankfully, Scala Film Theatre was spared the axe then, as it has been on countless occasions in its history. Today, it’s one of few remaining from the dozens of palatial cinemas that Bangkok once boasted. Built in 1969 by Thai architect Jira Silpakanok, the venue recalls a time when going to the theatre was a glamorous event, not merely an air-conditioned reprieve. It represents an era when Bangkok’s passion for the movies was immense, a time when artists would paint massive frescoes of the latest Thai or US blockbuster on the bill, when Thai actors truly looked Thai and were heroes of daily life. Those days have regrettably passed. Teenagers now rush to the newest anonymous Cineplex to shiver in front of chart-topping US adventure flicks or Thai
romantic comedies. Of the three cinemas that once energised Siam Square, only Scala has survived with its architectural integrity intact — the Siam Theatre burned in the Ratchaprasong demonstrations in 2010 while Lido has been altered to the point that none of its fading, oldworld charm has been preserved. Scala is certainly not the most up-to-date cinema. It doesn’t offer the 4-D experiences or VIP couches of contemporary luxury theatres. However, it exudes the charm of days gone by, an impression that no Major or SFX can provide. It is indeed the last unique screen theatre surviving in Thailand today. As such, it acts like a trip down memory lane. It starts with the majestic double stairs that lead into the atmospheric second floor. Hanging over the staircase is a giant all-white chandelier reminiscent of a stalactite. Within its soft golden glow, at least for a few seconds, anyone can feel like a movie star. The hall where the cashiers and concession stalls set up is an equally impressive structure. It’s supported by elegant columns that merge into a vaulted ceiling. Each pit is decorated with a golden light shaped like a lotus flower. The wooden cashier stands are crowned by baroque-style, dark wood panels. Here, moviegoers line up to claim seats off a paper chart, the tickets never costing more than B120 apiece. A sculpted wooden bas relief, showing traditional Thai imagery, hangs over the entrance to the 900-seat, operatic screening room. When films are due to start, ushers decked out in yellow jackets and bow ties appear as if out of thin air. The room turns dark, the sound system rumbles. The film plays for an hour-and-a-half, two hours at most, but the glamour of the experience endures. Scala Theatre is located at Siam Square Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd. It’s open every day.
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ENJOY AN “ALTERNATIVE” HOLIDAY AT SILVERLAKE, COURTESY OF ALTERMADOD AND A LINEUP OF THAI ROCKERS 42 | AUGUST 2015
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SILVERLAKE ALTERMADOD
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here’s never been a shortage of music festivals in Thailand. Seemingly every month the calendar is littered with new concerts worth budgeting for, from EDM blowouts featuring big-names on the international charts to local alt-rock and indie concerts. Even the so-called peak of rainy season can’t stop the momentum as Silverlake, the famous vineyard-slashconcert grounds in Pattaya, plays host to a brand-new, day-long live music bash. On August 29, the Singha Corporation reunites Thailand’s leading alternative rock bands at Silverlake Altermadod, which is a cheeky play on words — it sounds like “alternative,” but in Thai it means something along the lines of “bring a friend to jump with you.” The festival recalls the glory days of the 90s through a line-up led by legendary alt-rock bands Modern Dog and Audy. The latter group is widely known as trendsetters in Thailand. In fact, the popularity of bleached, platinum blonde hairdos owes its origins to the rockers’ style. Other acts include Ai, Playground, Student Ugly, Vassana, Aladin, Pong Pong, Sickchild, Migael, Nursery Sound, Sherry Duck, and Pex Bluesky. You don’t have to speak or even understand Thai to have fun, either. Like Big Mountain or the Pattaya Music Festival, Altermadod incorporates the key elements of all the best rock shows: lots of dancing, good food and drinks, the great outdoors, and extremely loud music. Tickets are B800 and available at Thai Ticket Major outlets. There are shuttle buses to the vineyard from Bangkok, one leaving at noon and the other at 2pm, both from MRT Lad Prao. Thirty minutes after the concert, the buses bring partygoers back to The Walk on KasetNawamin Road. Two-way tickets cost B700. For more information, visit facebook.com/altermadod.
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August 8 Hua Hin Jazz Festival 2015 Enjoy smooth jazz along Thailand’s most sumptuous shores. The annual Hua Hin Jazz Festival returns on August 8 to the Queen Sirikit Park (Hua Hin Soi 19). Starting at 5pm and running until midnight, the show features local and international acts, including the Jerry Byrd Quartet, Jeremy Monteiro, and Etc. Visit facebook.com/huahinjazzfestival for more information.
August 8 One Ride for ASEAN To celebrate the anniversary of ASEAN, One Ride for ASEAN at Nong Yai, Chonburi, leads avid cyclists down the asphalt across three different courses: an 88k race, a 44k race, and a 20k fun ride. Participants will need to have a road-racing bike and a hard shell helmet. Mountain bikes are also accepted. The top three finishers in the 88k and 44k will be awarded trophies. Entry fee costs B998 for the 88k race and B688 for 44k race and 20k ride. For more information, visit ama-events.com.
August 30 Iron Horse 2 See Khao Kho in Petchabun from a whole new perspective. The second edition of the Iron Horse race leads runners on a journey through the mountain in the fresh morning air. Come prepared — you have to be as strong as an iron horse to make it to the top of the hill. The course kicks off at Khao Kho Royal Palace, the King’s palace. The race is divided into 4.5k, 10k, and 25k distance. All finishers will receive medals. For more details, visit facebook.com/bg.running.
August 31-September 4 Ting Kra Jard Festival Suphanburi Making merit is the foundation of Thai culture. Giving alms is a common daily rite. Throwing them, however, is not so common. During the festival, offerings such as rice, bottled water, and instant noodles are literally thrown into baskets on the floor. This is done to honour spirits that don’t have relatives, as well as to help poor people in their times of need. This is why thousands of people gather around the festivities for free food.
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Throughout August Trang’s Cake Festival Trang, famous nationwide for its mouth-watering food, holds the annual Cake Festival this August. The village of Ban Lam Phu Ra is especially famous for their delicious cakes and scrumptious sweets. Made using recipes that date back several generations, these frosting-free cakes come in many flavours, like orange, coffee, and coconut. Apart from these sweet treats, other items on sale include locally made gifts, souvenirs, and OTOP products.
Throughout August Akha Swing Festival Every year during the rainy season, the Akha tribe in Chiang Rai hold what is known locally as Yae-Khu-A-Paew. Called the Swing Festival in English, this festival of daring commemorates the goddess of fertility and honours women. The highlight, no doubt, is the giant swing made of bamboo and wood that the people of the tribe ride back and forth at terrifying heights, often at the edge of cliffs. It’s held in August, when crops are usually harvested. The festival lasts for four days during the peak of rainy season, so dates may vary from year to year.
The slow life, Lanna-style: Wiang Nuea gives a taste of Pai before all the bars, restaurants, and guesthouses arrived
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Another Slice of Pai Ten minutes by car from the conglomeration of guesthouses, cafés, and travel agencies most people know as Pai, the original town lives on quietly. BY JOE CUMMINGS
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f you were lucky enough to visit Pai in the mid-1990s, before the road from Chiang Mai was finally sealed, you would have discovered a peaceful mountain valley crossroads where intrepid travellers drifted through traditional markets virtually unnoticed. Nowadays Pai, as most people know it, is a full-on destination where visitors from all over the globe are catered for by a variety of resorts, espresso cafés, bars, elephant camps, and restaurants serving Mexican, Israeli, Italian, and French cuisines.
Stark white gatekeepers bangkok101.com
But that Pai is only half the story. In fact “Pai” is the name of an entire district, which is divided into two main tambon (subdistricts), Wiang Neua (North Town) and Wiang Tai (South Town), along with several smaller tambon. It’s easy to spend an enjoyable weekend in Ban Wiang Neua, the main village in Wiang Neua tambon, without visiting “Pai” even once. Although only three kilometres north-northeast of Wiang Tai, the village remains largely unsullied by tourism, holding on to a strong northern Thai/Shan flavour that has been glossed over in Wiang Tai.
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A woman carries her produce along a track beside the refurbished walls of Wiang Nuea Most of the town’s roughly 4,000 residents make a living from farming, with garlic the most highly prized agricultural product. Six rice mills in Wiang Neua process local rice, which is surprisingly tasty. Cottage industries include weaving, basketry, and the making of naem (fermented sausage). The town’s Shan craftsmen, renowned for their skill in building with wood, bamboo, and handmade brick, are in great demand for the construction of resorts and restaurants in Wiang Tai. They’ve been joined by a new wave of migrants from Myanmar’s Shan State, which borders the Wiang Neua subdistrict to the north. These later Shan arrivals, many of whom fled political conflict with the Yangon government, tend to work as unskilled labourers for Thais or other Shan. Wiang, a very old word of Sino-Thai origin, means “fortified settlement” or “walled town,” and was historically applied to key habitations found in northern Thailand and Laos. Wiang Chan, the Lao capital now more frequently spelled “Vientiane” in the French manner, was such a town, as was Wiang Pai. When Shans from what today is north-eastern Myanmar founded Wiang Pai 800 years ago, they chose a fertile portion of the wide Pai River Valley just above the natural floodplain. They surrounded the settlement with 14 kilometres of earthen wall and moat. These fortifications were put to repeated use during Thai invasions from the 48 | AUGUST 2015
Lanna kingdom to the south. In 1869, Lanna finally annexed Wiang Pai (today’s Wiang Neua), and as northern Thais moved in alongside Shan inhabitants, it become customary for the two groups to use separate gates when entering and exiting the walled village. Both gates, Pratu Dam to the south and Pratu Wiang Luang to the north, can be seen at their original sites, marked by signboards inscribed in Lanna, Shan, and English. During the invasion, virtually the entire village was burnt to the ground. Although most of the architecture in Ban Wiang Neua today is less than 150 years old, the village of mostly wooden homes nevertheless evokes a timeless rustic charm. The village boasts two historic temples. The oldest, Wat Si Donchai, was originally built as Wat Don Jong Mai in 1312 by Shan prince Phaya Mongsau. After attacking the village, rival Lanna prince Chao Srijai renovated the temple in 1477, installing an 800-year-old Thai Lustyle Buddha image and renaming the temple. A 2007 renovation in Lanna style added extensive interior murals to the sim (main chapel). Wat Na Jalong in the centre of the village also boasts a Lanna-style sim, and may have been built by Lanna immigrants rather than Shan residents in the 18th or 19th centuries. In classic northern Thai style, the earthen walls around Wiang Neua trace an oblong shape – some scholars refer to it as “amoeba plan” – with the remains along the bangkok101.com
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A Lanna-style seated Buddha inside Wat Si Donchai
The brilliant gold coat of a northern-style chedi
Lanna text marks the entrance at Pratu Dam
southern perimeters being the most visually impressive. Two city gates along this section have been elegantly restored with handmade brick, without a trace of mortar in sight. Ambitious walkers can trace the entire 14-kilometre village perimeter, stopping off at Wat Si Donchai along the way. Parallel to the wall runs a water-filled moat popular with locals who amble by to fish with rustic poles – nets are strictly prohibited – and to forage for a variety of edible herbs and plants that fringe the watercourse. Lined by tall teak trees, narrow dirt tracks run alongside both sides of the moat, atop the old city wall. Wiang Neua tambon boasts five year-round waterfalls where locals spend weekends and holidays picnicking or enjoying the cool waters. The most well-known is Namtok Hua Chang (Elephant Head Falls, so named for the shape of the rock formations supporting the cascade). To reach the falls, head north from Ban Wiang Neua towards Ban Tan Jet Ton, and turn right at Pura Vida Resort. Follow the road as it winds through roughly six kilometres of rugged landscapes and garlic fields. Continue along the irrigation canal past New Moon Village, a long-running collective of Japanese hippies, until the track becomes too much for your car, scooter, or bicycle, and walk the rest of the way to the falls. The surrounding hills harbour a half dozen samnak song, rustic meditation retreats frequented by travelling Buddhist monks. Ban Muang Noi, 32 kilometres from Ban
Wiang Neua at the western limits of the tambon, is a semiremote Shan and hilltribe settlement that was once a major conduit for the regional opium trade. Today the peaceful village of mostly wooden homes is worth a visit just to view the mountain scenery along the way. Several guesthouses offer reasonably priced accommodation in Ban Wiang Neua. One of the oldest and most appealing, Sipsongpanna (0 5369 8259 or 08 1881 7631; facebook.com/paisipsongpanna), features four adobe-style bungalows decorated with bright colours, elevated beds, and wide balconies overlooking the Pai River. A traditional Shan market in the village sells fresh local produce at ridiculously low prices from 5am to 8am and 4pm to 7pm daily. Several noodle and rice shops in the same vicinity provide cheap and tasty Shan and Isan meals. Wiang Neua is best visited between November and March, when the surrounding valley is at its most beautiful. In December and January, you’ll need a thick sweater and a good pair of socks for mornings and evenings, and a sleeping bag or several blankets for comfortable nights. During the rainy season (June to October) travel to the remote areas such as Muang Noi can be difficult because of washed-out roads, but the village itself is cool and welcoming. During the hot season, however, the Pai River Valley fills with smoke from slash-and-burn agriculture.
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AUGUST PROMOTION Relax & Enjoy Get an additional 45 minutes Free with every purchase of THB1,500 and more Daily 10.00-22.30 Jouvence Wellness & Spa (12 F Chateau de Bangkok)
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The baby blue waters of Lake Baikal contain thousands of years of legends, and new chapters are added to the story each day
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Rhapsody in Blue Lake Baikal, the world’s biggest lake,
re mains the highlight of any Trans-Sib erian trip. BY MARCO FERRARESE – PHOTOS BY KIT YENG CHAN
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he majestic tranquillity almost knocks me flat as I emerge from the tent’s flapping entrance. Birds sail down to the water from a sky filled with colossal white clouds, dipping their dark plumage into the imperturbable blue. They break the sky’s mirrored image with ripples as they land. The profile of crags shimmers in the early morning light, such a divine backdrop for this portrait of otherworldly stillness.
A simple wooden fisherman’s shack on Olkhon Island bangkok101.com
“Good day,” say Yun, my travel mate. His voice can’t break the lake’s spell, but he manages to bring me back to Earth. He had slept under the stars, battling Siberia’s early summer chills with only a down sleeping bag and a waterproof coat. He looks beat, but satisfied. “You should have seen it,” he says with palpable excitement as he takes a seat on a twisted log that rises from the sand. “The sky was a pincushion of blazing stars.
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Sunset burns shadows of trees into the horizon I’ve rarely seen so many. They kept the darkness at bay like a million shining light-bulbs.” There’s no reason I shouldn’t believe him: the morning light is still bending the shapes of things in shades of blazing pink. A few metres above us, the outline of a tree perched at the top of the iconic Shaman’s Rock quivers in the dancing light as coloured stripes tied to its branches float in the breeze. Seen from the shore, the lake is so vast it’s hard to believe we are not on an atoll in a northern sea.
THE NEXT DAY, WANDERING IN THE WOODS ALONG THE COAST, THE COLOURED STRIPES TATTOOED WITH MANTRAS AND THE WOODEN POLES CARVED IN THE SHAPE OF LONG, GAUNT FACES CONVINCE ME THAT SHAMANISM IS REAL AT BAIKAL. I came to Baikal Lake and Olkhon Island in the way most do: as a stop along the Trans-Siberian route from East to West. Wedged between Ulan Ude and Irkutsk, Baikal is an ever vigilant, permanently open blue eye in the 54 | AUGUST 2015
southern part of Siberian Asia. Its story is as long as half the world’s, its depths a fathomless source of life. During the winter, nature slings a lens of ice over it, but locals still scratch away at it with their wheels, ski blades, and boots. The early May thaw marks the re-opening of the bluest gaze on the planet, one that extends six hundred kilometres and contains the biggest body of freshwater in the world — one that has quenched the thirst of nomadic Buryat Mongols and other steppe drifters for centuries. “I’ve read that this is the crack from which the Asian continent will split,” I tell Yun, parking myself next to him so that we can share the crackers and cheese that make up our simple breakfast. We are on Olkhon Island, a crumb floating in Baikal’s western shore. This rugged landscape, reached by flimsy ferries, is a collection of bumps and rocky crests covered with brambles and colourful plants. The standard tourist experience on Olkhon means staying at Nikita homestead, a famous guesthouse decorated as a wooden village of elves behind Shaman’s Rock. We, however, preferred to shave off some expenses and accepted Baikal’s invitation to rest beside its shores. Camping around the lake is free of charge, although the lack of cost does not occlude the cold that still bites at night. A popular way to drink in Baikal’s beauty is by taking a private jeep tour and shuttling to Olkhon’s four corners, bumping over arteries of sand and rocks. We thought it best to sample the island’s diversity of life by keeping our bangkok101.com
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Shaman’s Rock jutting out from the shore
Splashes of colour contrast the silver lake and grey sky
A lonely cow ploughs the field
feet on the ground. The previous night we had walked over the plateau that starts from Shaman’s Rock and gives a full view of Olkhon’s western coast. It snaked for miles into the blue, a long border separating a few human settlements from the fresh lake. The sun loitered until well past 11pm, tinting the scene with bursts of purple light while pasting oblong shadows to the soles of our feet. The next day, wandering in the woods along the coast, the coloured stripes tattooed with mantras and the wooden poles carved in the shape of long, gaunt faces convince me that shamanism is real at Baikal, as the centuries of folklore proclaim. The wind buffets us, forcing us to bow as we walk, as if we were to pay homage to ancestral gods. Against the relentless gusts, it strikes me that there’s no way we will reach the bend we saw from the top of the plateau by foot. It doesn’t matter. We enjoy the walk, passing several groups of Russian families and school children who are camped out or preparing for a blustery picnic. “Let’s get some fish for lunch,” says Yun, who’s still waxing poetic about the smoked Omul — a kind of Siberian trout only found in these waters — he ate in Irkutsk’s market a couple of days ago. The task, however, seems harder than the amount of fresh water around us would suggest. We ask a local man where we might pick up some Omul. “Ask the fishermen up there,” he replies, pointing to a wooden shack near which shiny fish are hanging out to dry in the blistering sun. It turns out that a fisherman finds us before we can
reach the encampment. The old salt has certainly had a drink too many, but his movements still bear some dignity. He starts talking to us in his lingo as his tongue battles the clutch of the spirits. Telling him we don’t understand doesn’t help. He keeps talking, anyway. Yun manages to buy two fish at a bargain price, and although lost in translation, we receive a third free of charge. Omul it isn’t, but it tastes as raw and real as the brine of Baikal’s water. After a few bites, I feel I’ve had enough; my friend, however, enjoys the local delicacy much more than I do. While trying to have a postmodern Crusoe lunch, one of the younger fishermen approaches from the shack, shooting rapid-fire questions at us in Russian. His front teeth are stained and chipped, the fiery aroma of vodka erupting from his breath. He goes on talking nonsense until the old trawler who sold us the fish jerky returns, grabbing the young man by the shoulders and shaking his head with a look of consternation. “Go,” he says in a language we understand, as he leads the lost mariner back to the shack, helping him to sit on a plastic apron among twisted nets. The well-oiled young man waves goodbye as we leave. As we depart, I know that I won’t be able to go much farther on those few bites of fish alone. I have yet to find my perfect bite of Omul, but I know it’s swimming next to us in the lake. I run to the shore, clamber on top of a rock, scoop up a handful of Baikal, and drink down the crystalline liquid. It tastes as fresh as the air.
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CALL WAITING Dirty, disregarded, and tattooed with black ink, Bangkok’s battered phone booths tell stories of life in a hard-boiled metropolis. In these broken figures, award-winning photographer Frank Hallam Day discovers meaning. Held at H Gallery as part of Photo Bangkok, the triennial festival featuring works from local and foreign artists at galleries across the city, his series of multivalent photographs dubbed Call Waiting examines the particulars of Bangkok itself. Day’s muse doubles as a lens through which to view the city’s conflicted sense of modernity, its creative breadth, and its politics. For example, many of the markings in the booths are graffiti tags, and yet others are messages left by street protestors during the Thailand’s recent political meltdowns. These intimate images also expose the demands that govern our urban existence: job adverts, signs of commercial pleasure, party promos, and fliers offering opportunities for social advancement. The idea of a world in flux — of stunted development — figures large in the photographs. Despite having all but vanished from other major cities, here phone booths abound, often derelict and vandalized, but sometimes newly installed. Outside their narrow confines, life goes on, a piebald community of street beggars and tourists, sex workers and food vendors, politicos and students, visible through cloudy glass. Call Waiting is on view from August 6 to September 27 at H Gallery Bangkok.
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exhibitions
TACTILE
LA LANTA FINE ART 245/14 Soi 31 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2260 5381, 0 2204 0583 | Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun by appointment | lalanta.com | BTS Phrom Phong
Until August 12 In this duo exhibition, talented Thai artists Jakkee Kongkaew and Praween Piangchoompu adopt the ancient art of woodblock printing. The result is a testament to patience and dedication in the artistic process, a process that is done entirely by hand in this case, either with a knife, chisel, or sandpaper.
THE ENGRAVINGS OF MY HEART
ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 0 2422 2092 Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallery.com
August 20-October 4 Engravings of His Majesty the King and the royal family, as well as beautiful landscapes and important landmarks in Thailand, are on display at this exhibition. The delicate lines and beautiful volume that result from the engraving process reveal the artists’ dedication and loyalty to their royal graces.
SIGNS
KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 0 2234 6700 | Tue-Sun 11am-7pm kathmandu-bkk.com | BTS Chong Nonsi
Until August 30 The nightmarish images in this series will appeal to fans of horror, sci-fi, the apocalypse, and other mysteries of the intelligent universe. Taken by renowned street photographer Akkara Naktamna, the photos consider the possibility of an impending organic doomsday conspiracy.
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exhibitions
A RT & C U LT U R E
SACRED SHAPES
THAVIBU GALLERY F4, Jewelry Trade Center, Suite 433, 919/1 Silom Rd | 0 2266 5454 | Mon-Sat 11am-7pm | thavibu.com l BTS Surasak
Until August 31 Ralph Kiggell continues a series of works that reinterpret common decorative elements from Thailand and Britain. Through various media, he reshapes and re-colours objects of cultural and national identity, such as pinnacles, mandalas, flags, and stupas, using them to assess the presentation of Thailand as “other” to foreign eyes and to examine the historic assimilation of foreign “things” into Thailand. His works also offer commentary on the changing notions of what is craft and what is art in the Digital Age.
PROXIMITY (PART II)
BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd | 0 2214 6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | bacc.or.th BTS National Stadium
Until October 25 This is the second part of a collaborative effort between the BACC and 13 MUZ, the Polish inSPIRACJE International Visual Art Festival. The first instalment comprised an exhibition of Thai artists in the Polish city of Szczecin, and now eleven of their Polish counterparts are here to exhibit installations, photographic works, and video art.
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interview
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Brushing Up Pattrararee “Fai” Nonparnkul Talks about her Work, Inspiration, and Watercolour Paintings as Raree BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
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attrararee “Fai” Nonparnkul was born and raised upcountry. A native of Chainat with a BA in Product and Package Design from Naresuan University in Phitsanulok, the affable young graphic designer moved to Bangkok two years ago in search of better career opportunities. During the day, she plies her trade in Thong Lo. She devotes her free time, however, to her sweet and playful watercolour paintings. Created under the nom de guerre Raree, her delicate portraits celebrate the lighter side of life in Thailand. Like most artists in the modern world, Fai admits to surfing Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to find inspiration. One day, she came across a page named “Palim” and was so impressed by her watercolour paintings that she decided to give it a shot with her own art. “I started drawing from Adobe Illustrator,” she says, “but it wasn’t giving me the textures, shadows, and emotions that I wanted. Watercolour is more relaxing, or cosy, especially when there aren’t any hard edges; then the colours flow naturally.” While social media and art galleries provide nearly endless sources of inspiration, for Fai, a packaging design graduate, beauty is found in the most amazing places. Somewhat unusual everyday objects often pique her interest. “The perk of living in Bangkok is you have more choices of supermarkets and malls than you do in other provinces. I used to spend hours in MaxValu just exploring the different products on the shelves, observing the various styles of packaging,” she says between bouts of laughter. In a short period of time, Fai transformed her work from grayscale portraits to colour paintings depicting a variety of scenes. She adopted techniques that defined bangkok101.com
her style — softer edges, more emotive poses, distinctive blushes. Now, she often paints pictures of friends or family from memory and gives them as gifts. “I want everyone to receive an original gift and know that I made it exclusively for them,” she says. Growing up and studying upcountry has given Fai’s style an element of independence, which she attributes to being close to nature. “In Bangkok, with the clock always ticking, and people powerwalking all the time, we hardly notice our surroundings. But, in the countryside, we can slow down and indulge in the natural beauty and diversity of the ecosystem,” she says, while noting that urban life has its advantages, too. “Sometimes, the city lifestyle ignites my artistic soul. For example, when I’m on my way to work, I might look at the long-tail boat motoring fiercely alongside my ferry and get inspired to paint.” While she has often been asked about her aspirations, such as having her paintings on display in a dedicated exhibition, for the time being Fai is content to simply spread joy. “It doesn’t matter if my paintings turn into commercial products — as long as they put a smile on someone’s face, I’m happy.”
This month’s cover was specially created for Bangkok 101 by Raree. To learn more about Fai’s work as Raree, or to inquire about having a watercolour painting made for you or someone you love, visit her Instagram page @rareemade or contact her on LINE at rareez. AUGUST 2015 | 61
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cheat notes
BIG BROTHER’S NEW BROOD The master of noir in Thailand returns with two new works, one fiction and the other non. BY JIM ALGIE
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hristopher G. Moore’s freewheeling intelligence roams over the manifold aspects of modern life, from the 2014 coup to high-tech crime surveillance, map-making, and radical street art. The sum total infuses his latest novel, Crackdown, with a richer palette of colours than the endless black and rainy bleakness of so many other noir tales. His private eye, Vincent Calvino, the antihero of some 14 previous books, is back in a story that will resonate with Thailand residents. Locals and expats will certainly recognize some of the factual details, like the Thai man who gets arrested by soldiers for reading a copy of Orwell’s 1984. That backdrop quickly takes on a graver importance when Alan Osborne, the ex-bullfighter who first appeared in the author’s Missing in Rangoon instalment, has Calvino track his much younger Thai girlfriend whom he suspects is having an affair. As usual, fans of the series will get clued up on the latest equipment that detectives use. The obsession with gadgetry and forensics carries over into the author’s latest non-fiction collection, The Age of Dis-Consent. In the most gripping section, “Crime Investigation in a Changing World,” you glimpse the sort of raw materials and research that inform Moore’s novels. Handcuffs that can inject prisoners with sedatives. Fingerprints that can be analysed to provide personality profiles of perpetrators. Cops invading social media networks and adapting computer programmes to foretell crimes. These are frightening inventions — right up George Orwell’s dark alley. Actually, the late Englishman, who 62 | AUGUST 2015
was perhaps the world’s most eloquent spokesman to denounce totalitarianism and defend press freedom, is a constant reference point in Crackdown, which incorporates a few of his more famous quotes as chapter openers: “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.” In both works, Moore also shares his obsession with power: who wields it and who is struck dumb or dead by it. These quintessential questions of our time are treated in more intellectual and literary fashion in his collection of essays, The Age of Dis-Consent. In Crackdown, on the other hand, the underclass is revealed in brutal yet compassionate scenes in the so-called “Aquarium,” an abandoned building where poor Khmers live like criminals and farm fish in the basement. In one of the book’s most evocative and endearing moments, a father has stencilled stars on the concrete ceiling so that he can shine a flashlight on them and let his son pretend he’s in rural Cambodia staring up at the night sky. These are not throwaway details. What’s really at stake emerges in scenes such as these. After all, what would 1984 be without the tragic love story between Winston and Julia? If any counterbalance exists against the omnipotent powers of Big Brother and the ruthless surveillance networks that figure so prominently in Christopher G. Moore’s latest books, it resides in such moments of solidarity and familial warmth. Both of these books are available at Asia Books and Kinokuniya for B420 each. bangkok101.com
bawarchithailand
Chidlom
Sathorn Sukhumvit Soi 11 Sukhumvit Soi 4
Bawarchi Chidlom President Tower Arcade ( Intercontinental Bangkok B - Level, 973, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2656 0102 - 3
Bawarchi Sathorn
Indian - Thai Chambers of Commerce, 13 Sathorn Soi 1,Thungmahamek, Sathorn Road, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2677 6249
bawarchi_Indian
bawarchibangkok
Gurgaon
Bhubaneswar
Chandigarh
Bawarchi Sukhumvit 4 Bawarchi Sukhumvit 11 Bawarchi Myanmar 20/11 Sukhumvit Soi 4, Khlongtoey, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : + 66 2656 7357
(F/ 1-3 Ambassador Hotel) Sukhumvit Soi 11, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2253 2394
No . 37 Level 1 , La Pyayt Wun Plaza , Alan Pya Pagoda Road ,Dagon Township, Yangon , Myanmar Tel : 09253500002 / 03
Yangon
Faces of Nepal
art & culture photofeature
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epal has a magnetic effect on travellers, on the soul. Here, culture runs as deep as the waters that feed the Kalapani. In the shadows of snow-capped peaks, bearded, painted sadhus sit like living statues, the wandering holy men as ubiquitous as the pagodas that house thousands of years of spiritual enlightenment. In the hills, families live in cold, spartan surroundings. In cities, they live in poetic congestion. This land-locked nation is at once impoverished and rich with heritage. The earthquake in April ripped the country at its seams, rattling the world in its aftermath. It claimed more than human life: it took holy sites, mountainsides, and entire villages, sparing certain places death, but not destruction. Within hours, the very fabric of this vibrant society had been reduced to dust and debris. Rising British photographer Kristopher Ellis Brown spent two-and-a-half months in Nepal, travelling the country before, during, and after the quake. “I was in Pokhara when it happened, in a café on the second floor,” he recalls. “At first, I thought it was a truck going past. The waiter said ‘don’t worry,’ but then the building began to shake very hard and he told us all to leave immediately. People ran out screaming. Rubble fell from the ceiling and cracks crept up the walls... but, being in Pokhara, no one realised the devastation [that occurred] outside the town.”
The photographer later visited Angel's Orphanage, a charity effort that cares for orphaned and abandoned children, a population that fell into dire despair as soon as the true damage from the quake became apparent. The orphanage remains an inspiration to Brown, strengthening his connection with Nepal following the tragedy. This series of visceral black-and-white shots, taken with an Olympus OM-2 during Brown’s travels and later developed in Bangkok, reveal the haunting truths of life in Nepal. They were part of the Colors of Nepal exhibition, which was held at Cho Why in late June and helped raise money for Save the Children Nepal; twenty per cent of proceeds from art purchased during the event were donated to the foundation. For more information on Save the Children Nepal and Angel's Orphanage, log on to nepal.savethechildren.net and angelsorphanage.com, respectively. To view more of Brown’s work and to inquire about purchases, visit facebook.com/kristopherbrownphotography.
POLIPO ARROSTITO CON POMODORI E PATATE AT SCALINI, SEE P89
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AROY COMFORT FOOD AND COLD CRAFT BEER
Two nights only, on August 1 and 2, Seven Spoons, Mad Moa, and Udomsuk Brewery team up for their “Local Craftsmen Comfort Food and Beer Pairing” night. The five-course dinner features dishes from the renowned restaurants, including the Mad Moa beer-braised beef slider, coffee-rubbed spare ribs with a stout glaze, and a butterscotch bomb. Each dish is paired with beer from Udomsuk — Saison IPA, lambic, amber ale, and more. Seats are B1950, with 15 per cent of profits going to the Resilient Homes Initiative in Nepal. Visit Seven Spoons or Mad Moa, or call 08 6071 6102, to book a seat.
GOTO VERTIGO
From August 22-25, Vertigo at the Banyan Tree Hotel welcomes Japanese chef Kunihisa Goto from the Michelin-starred L’Axel in Fontainebleau, France. Expect dishes comprised of bright, seasonal ingredients prepared with finesse. The dinner costs B4500 for four courses and B4900 for five. Seating is very limited, and reservations are required. For more information and to book a seat, call 0 2679 1200.
HIT THE STREETS AT OSHA
Riding on positive feedback from its launch last December, OSHA is celebrating with a brand-new lunch set that highlights Thai street food culture. Called, fittingly enough, the “OSHA Thai Premium Street Food Lunch Set,” the package offers favourite readyto-eat dishes with sophisticated presentation and premium flavours. The set is available from 11am to 2.30pm each day. For more information or to make a reservation, please contact 0 2256 6555 or reservations@oshabangkok.com.
MOUNTAINS OF MOON CAKES
With the Mid-Autumn Festival around the corner, the Conrad Hotel is preparing treats for your celebrations. The Moon Cake Festival runs from August 5 until September 27. Enjoy freshly-baked moon cakes in a variety of flavours, including custard, durian, white lotus, multi-grain, and red bean. Cakes cost B115 for one, B650 for four, B1050 for eight, and B1950 for the eight-cake luxury gift boxes. For more information and to place orders, call 0 2690 9255 or email bkkci.deli@conradhotels.com.
FOUND YOU!
A new restaurant joins the Hyde & Seek family. Dubbed Scruffy Apron, this outlet pays homage to all the professionals in the food and beverage industry, from chefs, waiters, and bartenders to butchers and fishmongers — all those who wear their aprons like a badge of honour. This all-day dining joint features décor sought to resemble a Victorian Era market and serves Western classics, including paella, the totally mod lobster rolls, and some decadent desserts. It’s located at EmQuartier, on the 6th floor of the Helix Building, and is open for lunch and dinner. For more details, visit facebook.com/scruffyapron.
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meal deals HANDS-ON AND HAND-TOSSED AMARI WATERGATE BANGKOK 847 Petchburi Rd | 0 2653 9000 ext. 353 | amari.com Pizza lovers, this one’s for you. At Cascade this month, you can create your very own homemade and hand-tossed pizza. Select your toppings from a range of premium ingredients, such as Parma ham, seafood, pan-fried chicken breast, artichoke hearts, Kalamata olives, and fresh mushrooms. If you feel like pizza alone won’t fill you up, go ahead and add another dish from a selection of salads, sandwiches, soups, and pastas. Wash it down with your favourite wines, beers, and cocktails.
SUPER CHANTERELLES ANANTARA BANGKOK RIVERSIDE RESORT AND SPA 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2476 0022 | bangkok-riverside.anantara.com Enjoy a once-a-year treat at Brio, where fresh chanterelles are beefing up the menu of Italian specialties. These coveted, wild golden mushrooms are a summertime treat in Italy and a rare find in Bangkok. Try them in a simple, yet stunning, salad, or perhaps in a crepe, in which they’re stuffed with ricotta cheese. Of course, you can’t go wrong with a chanterelle pizza. However you prefer them, get them while the getting is good, because they will only be around until the end of August.
DYNAMIC DUO W BANGKOK 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 | wbangkok.com Chef Thaneht Naovarat has teamed up with Jack, an expert mixologist, to share his menu in a whole new light. Enjoy a variety of tasty treats from Thailand, as well as overseas delicacies, paired with cocktails specially blended by Jack. Among main courses is a sumptuous grilled Australian lamb with amaretto-pumpkin risotto, glazed vegetables, and pickled morels. The promotion, available until the end of September, runs from 6pm to 10.30pm at The Kitchen Table for B2750++ per person.
WEDNESDAY NIGHT BUFFET BLOWOUT ROYAL ORCHID SHERATON HOTEL & TOWERS 2 Charoen Krung Rd Soi 30 (Captain Bush Lane) | 0 2266 0123 | royalorchidsheraton.com Savour a smorgasbord of Chinese delicacies at Feast every Wednesday from 6pm to 10pm. The buffet features a medley of authentic dishes, like hot Szechuan soup with seafood, stir-fried soft shell crab with black pepper, steamed snow fish with soya sauce and ginger, Hong Kong-style suckling pig, and Peking duck. Unravel the mysteries of your future with an after-meal fortune cookie. The promotion is valid until August 26 and costs B1090++.
CRAZY FOR CRABS BANYAN TREE BANGKOK 21/100 South Sathon Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com Crab lovers should scurry over to Romsai this month for a sumptuous buffet that showcases a variety of sea pinchers. The buffet will feature a selection of soft-shell, blue swimmer, and mud crabs served on ice or cooked to order: steamed, grilled, or wok-fried. These succulent crustaceans will be available during the weekend brunch for B1900++ and for dinner at B1650++ on Friday and Saturday and B1350 from Sunday to Thursday.
HAPPY HUMP DAY CAFÉ RIVIERA Sukhumvit Soi 23, First street on right | 09 5049 5705, 0 2259 3033 | caferivierabkk.com Every Wednesday, from 6-10pm, visit Café Riviera for free flow wine and tapas (B399++), and end your Hump Day on a high note. With its contemporary bistro-like atmosphere, complete with a covered patio and cool artwork, the restaurant transports guests to the laid-back French Riviera, where the flavours from Nice to Saint-Tropez and beyond shine in plate after plate of tapas. It’s a perfect way to unwind. 72 | AUGUST 2015
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TRADER VIC’S - A Classic Brunch with a Silver Service Mai Tai Twist Claiming to have invented the Polynesian-inspired Mai Tai in 1944, Trader Vic’s is now celebrating its long-standing Tiki style with a unique Mai Tai Sunday Brunch (B1999++). Giving the classic buffet a colourful twist, this Sunday special takes the cocktail experience to a fine-dining level. Think inventive fusions and smoking dry ice mixes, with a cocktail shaking lesson led by creative mixologist Ron Ramirez thrown in for good measure — all this on top of a mouth-watering feast. Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, home to the relaxed South Pacific-themed restaurant, is reached by a breezy boat ride up the Chao Phraya River from Saphan Taksin Pier. Guests are welcomed with a Mai Tai mocktail served from a waterwheel of flowing tropical flavours. A classic Mai Tai, made from Trader Vic’s own brand of dark rum, starts the day off with a strong start. Buffet highlights include a luxurious seafood tower of fresh Maine lobster and crab, with high-quality French, Thai, and US oysters, as well as a sublime tuna ceviche. Trader Vic’s signature prime rib, cooked in a gigantic, wood-fired Chinese oven, is beyond good. Outside, though, is where the real culinary action happens. A teppanyaki grill sears Australian beef, lamb chops sizzle on the barbecue, and naan bread is baked on the side of a traditional tandoor — a true smorgasbord of cuisines. Throughout the brunch appear artistically presented bangkok101.com
carafes of Mai Tais that have been cold-infused for twentyfour hours. Added from tableside ice buckets, dry ice gives an artisanal touch to cool the creative concoctions. A peppermint infusion is served first; a sweet wild berry brew and a delicate earl grey-style pair with dessert. Funky variations of the tropical drink are also available, including creamy Blue Hawaiian, zesty Mojito, and the wonderful salty, sweet, and sour punch of Margarita. The cocktail lesson with the charismatic Ramirez is a fun extra. Still, after being drip-fed Mai Tais for several hours, the energy to shake a cocktail, let alone drink another one, is definitely on the wane. A heady barrel-aged Mai Tai threatens a cocktail-induced afternoon crash. If Mai Tais alone sound overwhelming, consider the brunch option with champagne and free flow wine and beer as well as the tropical cocktails. It offers more variety, but includes an extra B2000 price tag. The brunch is a novel interactive experience amidst the glut of options in Bangkok. Be careful, though: what begins as an exhilarating tropical journey can leave you feeling as if you’ve spent too much time in the sun. Stay hydrated.
TRADER VIC’S Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, South bldg, Fl G | 0 2476 0022 | bangkok-riverside.anantara | Sunday brunch 11.30am-3pm
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CAFÉ RIVIERA - Relaxed Riviera-Style Dining, like a Breath of Fresh Air Among the fine-dining stars and A-list eateries of Bangkok’s restaurant world, it’s sometimes difficult for great little places serving fabulous food to stand out. One such venue that deserves its time in the light is Café Riviera. With superb food and prices self-deprecatingly reasonable compared to the expensive plates served up at tables around the city, this Frenchowned bistro has the chops to rise higher. Located near Glow, a few minutes’ walk down Sukhumvit 23, Café Riviera bills itself as the only restaurant in Thailand to offer authentic French Riviera cuisine; there are some Mediterranean dishes on the menu, too. Les Fameux Farçis Niçois (B190), comprised of baked vegetables stuffed with pork, is a classic appetizer from Nice. These Southern French morsels are packed with the aroma and earthy flavours of fresh herbs. The fennel salad with avocado, oranges, onions, and olives (B240) has the same understated sophistication as Monaco, from where it originates. The duo of seared and terrine foie gras with apple (B390) could wow even the fussiest of the foie grasweary crowd. Duck confit with roasted potatoes, mushrooms, and bacon (B310) has substance and yet is succulent enough to fall off the bone. The dish has a lot going for it, although a few more vegetables and potatoes might balance the ratio better. Other mains are equally successful. For instance, the 74 | A U G U S T 2 0 1 5
baked sea bass with rock salt and cinnamon, served with French-style rice (B310), is cooked to perfection. The desserts are good enough to keep up with the Café Riviera quality while not stealing the show from the rest of the menu. Although a touch heavy, beneath its caramelized cover, the lavender crème brulee (B190) is redolent of the delicate kiss of its namesake flower. The mille-feuille cheesecake with honey and lavender (B190) is an interesting take on the Napoleon. It’s light and airy, yet an acquired taste. The terrace seating, big windows, and modern interiors give it a relaxed vibe ideal for after-work dinners or weekend reprieves with friends and families. On Sundays, there’s a pizza brunch, an enticing change to the brunch routine. There are plenty of tempting, well-priced wines to round out meals, as well. With an honest approach to food and an unwavering attitude toward quality in the kitchen, this bistro should shine; however, it must overcome the trope that fantastic food is enough in a city where daily deals and a good helping of marketing magic often lure hungry, yet fickle, diners through the doors.
CAFÉ RIVIERA Sukhumvit 23 (first soi on the right) | 0 2259 3033 | caferivierabkk.com Mon-Fri 6pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-10pm
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KISSO - 21 Reasons to Revisit this Japanese Gem You know Kisso. Odds are you’ve been there. The Westin’s low-lit Japanese establishment is celebrating its twenty-first anniversary this year. Twenty-one years of sushi, sashimi, and sake, two practically unheard-of decades in a city that’s so vulnerable to the caprices of taste and trends. Its success is testament to a readiness to adjust without surrendering the very aspects that have attracted a piebald parliament of locals, expats, and travellers over the years. The décor leans largely on the traditional but is spritzed with the contemporary. Cream-coloured carpet leads to grey stone steps bordered by a false stream. At the end of the path is a wall of sake barrels, and behind it a space decorated in equal measures of mahogany leather and sakura motifs. Glass windows are made to resemble sho¯ ji. Partition screens divide private and open dining areas. This “old meets new” vibe flows into the cuisine. At once authentic and daring, the menu is imbued with foreign accents by Chef Shinsuke Yonekawa, who uses ingredients that many Japanese chefs won’t touch, such as foie gras, which he pairs with a succulent balsamic- and teriyaki-glazed eel (B980). While his flair for innovation is laudable, his greatest triumphs inevitably return to his, and Kisso’s, roots. In honour of the restaurant’s twenty-first, a riff on maturation, Yonekawa has crafted a menu of its all-time bangkok101.com
favourite dishes (B2100), available through December. It’s a montage of flavours, yet also emblematic of the restaurant’s remodelled identity. A trio of appetizers comes first: seaweed seasoned with flying fish roe; octopus, surf clam, and crab stick in vinegar; and addictive fried silverfish. A warm, aromatic broth on the side provides balance. Salmon sashimi rounds out the starters; it lines a bird’s nest of noodles and greens, showcasing Yonekawa’s precision (he’s licensed to prepare fugu). The first main, grilled snowfish topped with wasabi sauce and prawn- and garlic-butter sauce, is immaculate. Served with a hot stone, raw Australian wagyu — which produces less smoke than Japanese breeds — lets diners interact with the meal before a rainbow of scallop, tuna belly, and yellowtail rolls arrives. It all ends with a toothsome dessert of plum jelly and matcha ice cream. While the anniversary menu shines light on Kisso’s years of achievement, the bi-monthly seasonal menus are Yonekawa’s playground, and that is something worth celebrating. In July, uni was the centrepiece. In August and September, it might be lobster or wagyu. Time will tell.
KISSO Fl 8, The Westin Grande, 259 Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2207 8000 kissojapaneserestaurant.com | daily 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm
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TABLES GRILL - Bubbles with Brunch for Sensational Sundays At Tables Grill, the limitless Moët and Chandon Imperial Brut concept (B3999++ per person) fits right into the Sunday brunch manifesto — Sunday is a time for gustatory pleasure, after all, and this celebration with bottomless bottles of bubbly hits all the right notes. Live cooking tables spread across the quaint, Frenchinspired dining room are a telling indication that this is not a typical brunch spot. Here, chefs delight both palate and senses with tableside cooking. Consider the champagne risotto. Once a generous spoonful of truffle and a split of champagne are added to the rice, a warm, pungent aroma wafts through the air and settles in your nose. Your eyes feast as the chef finishes it off by grating some of the good stuff off a huge wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano, coating every grain of rice with that nutty, buttery cheese. You may also be wide-eyed at the first sight of raw oysters shivering on icy sculptures. The fresh, briny oysters pair beautifully with champagne and light-bodied whites, which balance the sharpness of vinegar in the mignonette and spices in the Thai seafood dressing. Kevin Kristensen, the newly appointed head chef from Denmark, has a passion for seasonal ingredients, especially from his native Europe, as he seeks flavours close to his roots. Hence, platters brim with a selection of handcrafted European cheeses and cured meats. 76 | AUGUST 2015
With such a cornucopia of delights, it’s easy to get distracted, but be sure to check out the add-on à la carte menu. Dishes can be ordered and served to your table upon request at no extra cost. From it, the seasonal panfried duck liver on mini brioche with strawberry sauce is superb. The velvety pâté melts as bright citrus flavours cut through its richness. The half Boston lobster thermidor, a regular on the menu, deserves a star next to it. Succulent lobster is enriched with cream and egg yolks, brûléed, and served with earthy morels and creamed spinach. Tables also dedicates an entire room to its petite desserts and treats. The chocolate soufflé is a crowdpleaser — guests get to bake their own in the oven, watch it rise, and drool as the exterior toasts lightly. With a delicious molten centre and smooth wisps of chocolate, this soufflé is pure comfort. If you had one too many helpings of risotto, however, the satin-like passion fruit panna cotta would be a good option. With its free-flowing champagne and wide-ranging tastes and textures, this brunch might turn even the slowest risers into Sunday morning enthusiasts.
TABLES GRILL Fl M, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok | 0 2254 6250 bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | Every Sunday 11am-3pm
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review
SCALINI - Exquisite Italian Cuisine, Spanning Styles and Generations A grey stone staircase spirals into a lounge plucked out of the Roaring Twenties, each step upward like passing through the decades. Here, the wood is dark, the lights are dim, and the art is all Deco. This temporal shift proves short-lived, however, as from the glass-faced kitchen arrives a plate of eggplant parmigiana terrine, dressed to the nines in tomato confit, roasted herbs, and well-placed bitter leaves, its outfit finished with one lone parmesan croquette. The presentation is lean and modern, the flavours reminiscent of a candlelit evening on the terrace, or a salt breeze blowing in off the Mediterranean. This appetiser heralds a menu that offsets Scalini’s fashionable, vintage design. Italian chefs often stick, cement-like, to their roots. Chef Egidio Latorraca does not. While his dishes are built on the foundation of Italian technique and tradition, they often incorporate foreign influences. For example, the polipo arrostito con pomodori e patate (B880) — a dish of slow-cooked barbequed octopus — is turned fresh and summery with a salsa of heirloom tomatoes, kalamata olives, and green pea cream that looks and tastes a lot like guacamole. The hamburger di manzo and fegato grasso (B980), as the name suggests, merges Western comfort food with European fixings and Kobe beef. Like all dishes on the menu, it exudes the élan of an artiste: a de-constructed patty, polka dots of ketchup 78 | AUGUST 2015
and gorgonzola sauce, a sprinkling of foie gras and balsamic-onion compote. A Roman-style soup (B480) of braised oxtail, filled out with kale, quail eggs, oyster mushrooms, and tagliolini, whose thin strands and goldenrod colour leave a vague impression of bamee, bursts with distinct Asian notes. The broth has a deep burgundy hue and satisfying depth not unlike the Thai staple guay thiew rue. The familiar face of a tuna and salmon tartar (B540) gets an invigorating lift from lemon aioli and compressed pear. It’s as fresh as ceviche, but without the punch. Kurobuta pork belly, glazed with maple syrup and black pepper and served on a purée of green apple with vanilla-like tonka beans (B680), says little about Italy, but it tastes so impeccable, its texture balancing silken and crunchy elements so well, that spheres of influence don’t really matter. Of course, the old is sometimes new, as well. For dessert, a chocolate cake titled torta della nonna (B340) — grandmother-style cake — pays homage to the kind of sweet treat that you might enjoy at Christmastime, in the comfort of home, parked by the hearth with a glass of red wine.
SCALINI Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit 24 | 0 2620 6666 facebook.com/scalinibangkok | daily 6am-11pm
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SHUFFLE IS EXTENDING ITS HOURS TO BETTER SERVE OUR CUSTOMERS. STARTING ON WED, 1ST OF JULY, NEW RESTAURANT HOURS WILL BE MON (CLOSED), TUE-FRI (11:30AM-10:00PM) SAT-SUN (9:00AM-2:00PM). START YOUR WEEKEND WITH AN ENERGY BOOST FROM OUR BRUNCH, SERVED DURING 9:00AM-2:00PM
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san pellegrino recommends FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S. PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. Sanpellegrino Asia| sanpellegrino@sanpellegrino.com.sg Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
ZUMA
ZUMA Ground floor, The St. Regis Bangkok | 0 2252 4707 zumarestaurant.com Sun-Thu 11.30am-midnight and Fri-Sat 11.30am-1am
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The naturally-inspired ambience of Zuma reflects the purity of its impeccable Japanese cuisine. The use of granite, wood, stone, and bamboo gives this cavernous venue a chic, earthen feel. With an array of shared plates best enjoyed from couches on the air-conditioned terrace, Zuma offers a sophisticated yet informal dining experience. In the open kitchen, Head Chef Satoshi Onuki prepares authentic Japanese dishes with unconventional touches. Start off with their signature Zuma dish, thinly sliced sea bass with a light drizzle of yuzu truffle oil and briny salmon roe on the side (B480). The tartare of tuna and salmon is a fun, interactive dish to share (B780); with a petite wooden spoon, diners scoop the meaty tartare onto house-made seaweed rice crackers and sprinkle the mixtures with caviar. The tempura-battered whole Boston lobster (B1850) makes the perfect crunch n’ munch to pair with new cocktails, like the Yuzu Shiso Mojito — a sinful touch of shiso and mint with Pampero Blanco rum and the lemon-lime yuzu — and Zuma Tonka Colada (both B335). The wasabi mayo that comes with this succulent sea creature is dangerously addictive, and the dish is beautifully presented with a fan of deep-fried somen, thin Japanese noodles made of wheat flour. The black cod wrapped in hoba leaf is another star dish (B1280). The fish marinates in saikyo miso over four days. The result is sweet, buttery flakes of black cod that melt on the tongue. As noted above, Zuma has rolled out a new menu of classic cocktails with funky Asian twists. As the bar development manager, Arkadiusz Rybak, puts it, they embrace fun, European mixology and celebrate delectable Japanese flavours. Catered to the Thai palate, all of them have a strong kick yet are smoothed out with sweetness — when Shibuya hour strikes, it’s hard to resist these great sips while you mingle and nibble on izakaya-styled small plates and robata-grilled dishes. For a sweet finish, the chocolate molten cake, with its dark lava centre, is a chocoholics’ dream. It’s served on an icy mound with seasonal fruit and ice cream (B380). Pair it with a unique spin on chawan mushi — chilled coconut custard with bits of papaya and passion fruit foam (B250). bangkok101.com
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in the kitchen
FATIH TUTAK talks to Nads Willow
Determined to fashion his own style of New Asian cuisine, 29-year-old Istanbul native Fatih Tutak sets his artisanal menu alight with burning culinary ambition. Having travelled for work across Asia and beyond, the exuberant chef’s résumé includes stints at Michelin-decorated restaurants The Bellbrook in Hong Kong, NOMA in Copenhagen, and Nihonryori Ryugin in Tokyo. Now in Bangkok, at The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn, he plans to make yet another mark. Donning his apron, Chef Fatih holds court behind the open kitchen counter, a breath away from where diners eat. “The Dining Room is a place where people can feel relaxed and enjoy themselves,” he explains. “We are not about being sniffy, but [rather] about an eating-out experience with friendly, outgoing, and interactive service.” As he begins to prepare a sumptuous sashimi appetizer, serving some homemade squid ink crackers in the meanwhile, Chef Fatih says, “The Dining Room is about the stories behind the menu. Each dish is inspired by my travels, so the menu respects tradition, but I have added my own personal touches.” The aptly named Early Morning at Tsuskiji Market recalls trips to the pre-dawn auction in Tokyo, where Chef Fatih would sample tuna sashimi at its freshest. Taking 100 grams of bluefin from the very same market, he deftly marinates the fish in soy sauce mixed with a reduction of mirin and sake. Using a shark-fin board, he grates fresh wasabi, placing a neat, teaspoon-sized square on the plate. Its presence gives the dish subtle heat, a pleasant taste unlike the pungent kick of store-bought powders and pastes. 82 | AUGUST 2015
Next, a freestyle brushstroke of puréed Peruvian avocado paints the side of the plate. A dash of olive oil and citrus is added to the avocado mix — the stone is left in it, too — to keep the ingredients fresh and the texture smooth and velvety. A napkin acts as a stencil as Chef Fatih decorates one side of the plate with roasted seaweed powder. He’s creating a work of culinary art. After giving the tuna a few minutes in the marinade, Chef Fatih cuts the fish into stacked segments with the focus and dexterity of a sashimi master. He then gently places the long, pink stacks in the centre of the plate. Taking a small pair of tweezers tucked in the front pocket of his apron, he adorns the tuna with shisho flowers. Finally, he squeezes Japanese sudachi lime over it all. This final element gives it a foreign, almost herb-like taste. The flavours harmonize with the velvet-soft texture of the fish. Not content to create only one dish, Chef Fatih quickly rustles up the decadent Red Parfait — a foie gras terrine roll encased in a layer of beetroot jelly and decorated with Thai nasturtium leaves — and serves it with homemade brioche and 10-year-old balsamic vinegar. Its flavours are redolent of the chef’s globetrotting experience. At last taking a rest behind the counter, Chef Fatih reveals the meaning these dishes carry, saying “Food is a culture, an equal culture… and culture is one of the most important things for humans in their life.”
THE DINING ROOM AT THE HOUSE ON SATHORN 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 | thehouseonsathorn.com
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street eats
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eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
PRIK YUAK
W
e all have our own favourite ways to unwind on weekends. It’s supposed to be a special time, after all. The highlight of my time off is often breakfast, lunch, or a late lunch at Prik Yuak, a cosy gem hidden inside the sprawling Jatujak Weekend Market. Coming to Prik Yuak is a familiar journey. There’s no shame heading down the trodden path. I know what I’m getting here, from the place to the plates. The staff greet you with a “please, take a seat,” and then let you choose a spot parallel to the fence or inside, in an open-sided corner. All the while, the owner Khun Ann and her team race from table to table, serving all sorts of food on terra cotta plates and bowls. After I take a seat, I walk up to the kitchen counter and pick from the popular Thai dishes that catch my eye. In Thai, this kind of food is called “khao kaeng,” which literally means rice and curry. At Prik Yuak, there are at least 10 premade dishes ready to pile on to plates at any given time. I pick several, aligning a combination of tastes: spicy, sweet, sour, neutral. I love her khai palo — egg, tofu, and pork belly in a broth rich with Chinese five spice — and khaeng loueng, a yellow soup from the south, and fried squid marinated in
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garlic and coriander roots. Brown organic rice from Khun Ann’s farm in the Northeast is the perfect foil to these powerful flavours. The clean, clear, and fresh tastes champion Khun Ann’s style. Everything at Prik Yuak is well-balanced. The dishes are as satisfying at breakfast as at lunch. They tide me over until dinner. The only downside is that I end up eating so much that I almost turn around and go home instead of sticking around and enjoying the market. Prik Yuak is inside Jatujak Market. From MRT Kamphaeng Phet Exit 2, turn right toward the restroom and then right again; when you see a fresh orange juice stall on the right, turn in there. It’s only open on the weekend from 8am until 5pm.
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FOOD & DRIN K
food for thought
Vivin Maison Fine French Foie Gras with a Touch of Thai Flair BY RACHEL KWOK
A
s I hold the open jar to my nose, the rich aroma of the foie gras terrine invades my senses. I soak up the fragrance as if it were a fine wine. Then, with giddy excitement, I grab a butter knife to examine its texture and taste. Vivin Maison’s rosy, peach-blushed pâté is firm at first, but it spreads smooth on a slice of bread. The earthy, elegant foie gras melts on the palate, leaving a lingering taste of toasted nuts and rum. Though
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it may look unassuming, as the founder of the brand, Nicolas Vivin, puts it, the finer things in life are often simple and easy. Nicolas and his wife Samantha are fine food specialists who develop and purvey locally produced and imported gourmet products in Bangkok. “I decided to introduce foie gras duck terrine, because it is not well-known in Thailand,” says Nicolas. “People are familiar with pan-fried
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food for thought
foie gras, but I prefer the terrine; you taste more of the flavour of the duck liver.” The pâté I sample, a version blended with Chalong Bay Rum, is one of the most exquisite in their collection. The artisanal rum comes from a distillery on Phuket’s east coast, and the duck liver is imported from France. It’s just one of Vivin’s many delicacies imparted with a soupçon of Thai flair. Other exotic foie gras flavours include mango, tamarind and spices, and black truffle. A native of Roanne, France, Nicolas grew up in a family of food connoisseurs and travellers, which helps explain his refined palate, passion for gourmet cuisine, and peripatetic spirit. His mother, he says, was always an adventurous food traveller, and his grandmother an avid cook who would transform fresh local produce into delectable dishes. Having begun his professional life in the hospitality industry, Nicolas has also travelled extensively, all the while keeping his eyes open for the finest local gourmet products. bangkok101.com
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Recently, Nicolas expanded Vivin’s product line, introducing a dried duck breast (magret in French) inspired by his mother’s cured meats. Vivin uses locally farmed Thai duck breasts and cures them with a high-quality fleur de sel, or sea salt, harvested by hand in Petchaburi. The thinly sliced magret make great additions to salads and cheese platters and come in a bounty of flavours. The most popular — thyme — is a must-try, preferably with a glass of sweet Sauternes. A supplier to restaurants and boutique retailers, Vivin does not neglect the home cook. Nicolas believes everyone should be able to enjoy fine foods at home, hasslefree. That guides his vision of bringing new and exciting delicacies to kitchens across the country. Vivin Maison’s fine foods are currently available at local farmers’ markets and boutique retailers, but the online shop at vivinmaison.com is probably the most convenient way to purchase the products, as they can be delivered to your door. Vivin products will also be launching in the deli section at Central World Food Hall this August. AUGUST 2015 | 85
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listings
AMERICAN BOURBON STREET BAR & GRILL 9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekamai | 0 2381 6801 | bourbonstbkk.com | 7am-1am A Cajun-Creole cut-out whose vast menu explores the patois of the Louisiana bayou and shines in dishes like crawfish étouffée, jambalaya, and barbeque ribs.
LITTLE BEAST 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13 | 0 2185 2670 | facebook.com/littlebeastbar | Tue-Sat 5.30pm1am, Sun 5.30-midnight An intimate gastro-bar suited to grazing and glugging or a bit of both, featuring a menu of New American dishes, which are delicious and exotic twists on old world standbys (e.g. truffle fries).
THE MAYFLOWER Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm Authenticity is the name of the game at the Dusit Thani’s cool ground-level restaurant. The menu here is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan.
XIN TIAN DI Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk. com | 11.30am-2.30pm; 6pm-10.30pm The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches, and a la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok.
CHEF MAN
LIU 3F Conrad Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd | 0 2690 9999 | conradhotels3.hilton.com | 2pmmidnight A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes.
MEI JIANG The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2861 2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Widely regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants in town, Mei Jiang has built a loyal following for its dim sum, fresh classics, and behind-thescenes “Chef’s Table” concept.
SHANG PALACE 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com | 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts. 86 | AUGUST 2015
J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN U Sathorn Bangkok, 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli | 0 2119 4888 | uhotelsresorts.com The classic cuisine at this lovely joint lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day.
LE BOEUF
CHINESE Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn, 33/1 South Sathorn Rd | 09 3135 5539 | chefmanrestaurant.com | Lunch 11.30am2.30pm, Dinner 6pm-10pm Cantonese classics in all their glory at this posh venue beloved for its dim sum and Peking duck.
CAFÉ RIVIERA 110/1 Soi Prasanmitr, first street on the right in Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2259 3033 | caferivierabkk. com| 11.30am-10pm A Parisian bistro set in the gullet of a bustling Bangkok soi, serving tartare, cold cuts, carpaccio, duck, cheese, and more. Check the chalkboard for the daily specials.
ABBOT Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2258 6250 | abbotbangkok.com Inspired by Venice Beach’s Abbot Kinney Boulevard, a gentrified stretch of once-empty brick buildings and beach cottages, this bright dining spot brings the vibrancy of Californian cuisine to keen palates in Bangkok. The menu is a medley of what’s fresh at the moment. Farm-to-table is a factor. So are organic ingredients. Dishes feature in-season produce, as well as fish and meat procured from sources that leave minimal carbon footprints. The cocktails hold true to the theme, too — it’s all fresh, all natural, and all new.
FRENCH CHEZ PAPE 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2255 2492 | chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed. Stop in for happy hour to round out your meal with a glass of wine or a discounted beer.
Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan | 093 971 8081 | leboeufgroup.com The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: highquality steak liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core.
L’APPART 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi | 08 5924 1565 | sofitel.com | 7pm-midnight One of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse. Traditional cuisine charts an adventurous new course.
SAVELBERG Ground floor, Oriental Residence, Wireless Rd | 0 2252 800 | facebook.com/savelbergth | open Mon-Sat, noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm French in flavour and elegance, but imbued with influences from the Netherlands, the food is befitting the chef’s pedigree. Considering the quality of the dishes and the restaurant’s refined ambience, it’s easy to see why this place is becoming a neighbourhood favourite.
THE GLASS BANGKOK 8/8 Civic Horizon, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 0 2108 8982 | theglassbangkok.co.th | Sun-Thurs 11.30am-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-11pm Not everyone is a wine expert or familiar with French cuisine, but that’s where The Glass shines. The kitchen is consistent, and guests can pick from wines they may have thought they would never try. bangkok101.com
listings INDIAN BAWARCHI Level B, InterContinental Chidlom, 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0383 | bawarchiindian. com | 11am-midnight These are the kind of curries you’ve been missing. Rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious: Indian comfort food, in other words. You won’t leave disappointed.
CHARCOAL 5th flr Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit 11 | 08 9307 1111 | charcoalbkk.com | Open daily 6pm11pm No sloppy curries swimming in ghee here: only sophisticated interpretations of tandoor-grilled delicacies enjoyed by the Moghuls of old, and a unique selection of cocktails with intriguing Indian twists designed by Joseph Boroski.
MAYA 29F Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2683 4888 | mayathailand.com | 5pm-1am A high-flying joint that contains more than a few surprises, from cocktails with Indian twists to food that marries ingredients unusual in Indian cuisine with classic manifestations from the Subcontinent.
RANG MAHAL 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm Meaning “palace of colours,” Rang Mahal sure does have a courtly air, down to the refined, delicate food. The proceedings go up another notch when the kebabs and curries come out.
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THE GREAT KABAB FACTORY Majestic Grande Hotel, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 2 | 0 2262 2999 | thegreatkakabfactory.com/ Bangkok | 6pm-11pm Built around memorable service and menus that are entirely different in look and taste from the ubiquitous MiddleEastern kebabs. TGKF boasts an extensive inventory of more than 450 kinds of kebab.
INTERNATIONAL BARSU Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2649 8358 | barsubangkok.com | Open daily 10am-11pm A former “drink, dine, dance” destination turned into a modern gastro lounge with a playful menu and a philosophy of rustic “down-to-earth food at down-to-earth prices.”
CREPES & CO 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat.
EAT ME Soi Pipat 2, Silom | 0 2238 0931 | eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm-1am Run by the innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town.
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ELEMENTS Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com | 6pm-10.30pm An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” translated as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into an a la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option.
THE GARDENS OF DINSOR PALACE 1217/2 Sukhumvit Rd, between Soi 59 and 61 | 0 2714 2112 | thegardenspalace.com | Breakfast/brunch from 8am, lunch from 11am2.30pm, dinner from 5pm daily Using imported and local ingredients, some of which are grown in the hydroponic vegetable garden out back, chefs produce modern dishes with a distinct French influence. Take time to visit the verdant grounds.
HARVEST 24 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2262 0762, 09 7235 8286 | facebook.com/HARVESTrestaurantBKK | 5.30pm-12am Rustic to the core, this wood-decorated venue in Phrom Pong relies heavily on Italian influences and high-quality seafood, but the menu incorporates a touch of Spanish and French flair, as well.
HYDE & SEEK GF Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2168 5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am A superior gastro-bar that delivers in both drinks and food. The cocktails, in particular, draw a varied after-work crowd to the stools that surround the chunky bar.
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listings
KAI Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 3800 | kai-bangkok. com | Mon-Fri 9.30am-11.30pm, 8.30am11.30pm This handsome eatery makes an impressive go of answering the question: What does “Kiwi cuisine” actually mean? It’s an appealing culinary destination in one of the city’s emerging food hubs.
MAD MOA 211/8 Lan Luang Intersection, Chakrapaddhipong Rd | 085 155 2601 | facebook.com/MadMoa | Tue and Sun 6pm-11pm A four-table shophouse serving hearty Polynesian and American food, like burgers, bacon-wrapped hot dogs, and slow-cooked ribs, as well as fantastic locally brewed beer.
MONDO GF Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | 7am-11pm Styled after popular neighbourhood salumerias (delis) and formaggerias (cheese shops) found on street corners throughout Italy. The food here is bitesized and meant to be shared.
MOODZ 308 Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2170 8440 | facebook.com/moodzthailand | 5pm-Midnight With a menu that riffs on modern European cuisines, leaning heavily on Italian for inspiration, this blue-and-gold beauty is a fine addition to Thong Lo’s urban dining scene.
OPPOSITE MESS HALL Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2662 6330 | oppositebangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6.30pm-Late
One of the city’s most talented chefs serves rustic, memorable meals that won’t break the bank. Worth the buzz and then some.
PANORAMA Crowne Plaza Lumpini Park | Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk.com | Noon2pm, 6pm-10.30pm Serves breakfast and lunch, but the dinner buffet really has tongues wagging. The buffet changes every few months, from Mexican to Japanese, from Brazilian “Samba San” to a fresh seafood bounty.
PARK SOCIETY Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com | 5pm1am (bar), 6pm-10pm The menu changes daily, according to available produce, and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items. Think oysters, Hokkaido scallops, and Aran Valley caviar. Has a lovely wine list.
QUINCE Sukhumvit Soi 45 | 0 2662 4478 | quincebangkok.com | 11.30am-late Serves straightforward food: farmhouse presentation, not too many flavours, focusing on quality ingredients and letting it fly. The chef buys sustainable goods — local, when possible — and changes the menu frequently.
RED OVEN 2 North Sathorn Rd | h6835@sofitel.com | 0 2624 0000 | daily 6am-10pm; weekend wine brunch noon-3pm Defined by light wood, slick décor, and lots of open space, this 7th-floor, all-day dining venue, named after the restaurant’s
cherry-red Molteni oven, serves a variety of international dishes, all quite delicious. On Saturday and Sunday, the restaurant puts on a rare (and fantastic) free-flow wine brunch buffet.
SHEEPSHANK 47 Phra Arthit Rd | 0 2629 5165 | sheepshankpublichouse.com | Tues-Sun 6pmmidnight A chalkboard announces specials while a one-page table menu keeps the decisionmaking pleasantly minimal. Fresh organic, fair-trade ingredients produce hearty flavours in grilled meats and seafood.
TABLES GRILL Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants, and the menu, billed as pan-European, takes full advantage of the theatre. As entertaining as it is satisfying.
THE DISTRICT Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | marriott.com | 6pm-11pm The name of the restaurant refers to New York’s meat packing district. That shines through in the menu as well as the impressive cocktails. The highlight at is the seafood. Lobster, prawns, oysters, scallops, crab — you name it.
THE KITCHEN TABLE 2/F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 | whotels.com/Bangkok | 9am10pm
NOW OPEN B R E A K FA S T LUNCH-DINNER Silom Rd.
Narathiwas Rd.
Sathorn Soi 10
Chong Non-si Station
kai
Sathorn Soi 12
Abode
Sathorn Rd.
02-6353800 kainz@kai-bangkok.com
www.facebook.com/kainewzealand N E W Z E A L A N D M o d e r n Kiw i C uisine
Deli•Cafe•Restaurant•Bar
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www.kai-bangkok.com
142/22-23 Sathorn Soi 12, Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500
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listings A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Good food and an ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles.
ITALIAN APPIA 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2261 2056 | appiabangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6.30pm-11pm Amazing Roman-style cuisine that, to the benefit of diners, is limited to a small, special menu. Extremely popular, and with good reason.
DON GIOVANNI 1695 Phaholyothin Rd, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok | 0 2541 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com The menu is full of home-style recipes, the concept rarely straying from traditional Italian. Along with neo-classical décor, the culinary approach lends Don Giovanni a decorous air befitting its operatic name.
ENOTECA ITALIANA BANGKOK 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 | 0 2258 4386 | enotecabangkok.com | 6pm-midnight Traditional Italian to the bones, rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, cured meats, and salami on the countertop. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable a la carte and degustation menus to explore.
GARIBALDI’S Somserset Lake Point Tower A, 41 Sukhumvit 16 | 0 2262 0835 | garibaldisbangkok.com | open daily Featuring cuisines running the length of the Mediterranean, the most memorable dishes nevertheless return to the restaurant’s Italian roots, dishes filled with energy and flair.
IL BOLOGNESE 139/3 Sathorn Tai Soi 7 | 0 2286 8805 | ilbolognesebangkok.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11pm It shouts “tradition” from floor to ceiling. Cold cuts and cheese, wooden wine racks, and wood-fired pizza: original recipes meet high-quality ingredients here, and the results always satisfy. One of the best pizzas in town.
ITALICS 63/3 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2253 2410 | italicsrestaurant.com | daily 8am-11pm bangkok101.com
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Using ingredients sourced directly from Thai farmers and artisans, Italics provides an intriguing take on Italian classics. Interesting combinations abound, and there’s plenty of wine, as well as a stellar espresso, to satisfy an army of regulars.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 | labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm A relaxed, welcoming space with indooroutdoor seating. Chef Luca updates the menu regularly and orders produce from Italy every fortnight. It’s all rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion.
LENZI Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen, Ruam Rudee Soi 2 | 0 2001 0116 | lenzibangkok.com | Lunch 11.45-2pm, Dinner 6pm-10.45pm Many ingredients are sourced directly from the chef’s native Tuscany — including fresh white truffles and a butcher’s bounty of hams and salami. It just doesn’t get much more Italian than this in Bangkok.
PEPPINA 27/1 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2119 7677 | peppinabkk.com | 11am-3pm, 6.30pm-12am, closed on Monday Quite possibly the best pizza in the city is available here, and at reasonable prices to boot — this is a welcome and muchlauded addition to the upper crust of Bangkok’s dining scene.
SENSI Narathiwat Soi 17 (Yaek 5) | 0 2117 1618 | facebook.com/sensibangkok | Mon-Sat 6pmmidnight Intense flavours are spun from fresh produce and complemented by sophisticated reductions and emulsions. The interplay between rich and zesty, complexity and straightforwardness, results in amazing creations.
SCALINI Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm The cuisine is Italian, but with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base but are infused with lighter, Asian-influenced twists. All of the dishes are prepared with impeccable touch. Don’t forget dessert: they alone are worthy of a visit.. AUGUST 2015 | 89
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listings
JAPANESE
TORO SUSHI
GENJI GF Swissotel Nai Lert Park, 2 Wireless Rd | 0 2655 4265 | genji-restaurant.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm A Bangkok institution for more than 30 years, where presentation is crucial to the overall effect. Top-quality and wellexecuted Japanese cuisine.
HAMA-ICHI Legacy Suites, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 29, Klongtoey-Nua | 0 2662 3376 | facebook.com/ hamaichibangkok | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight, Sun 4pm-11pm Almost 300 dishes. Dive right in to tempura, seared salmon, wasabi-paired sashimi, and a number of hotpots, dining side-by-side with salarymen at the long bar or in private at one of the tables sectioned off by bamboo screens.
TAIHEI 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm There’s a real commitment to quality leading the charge at Taihei. The food is beautiful, and it tastes great, to boot. Honest-to-goodness Japanese served from atmospheric heights.
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Fl 5, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloenchit Rd | 0 2160 5880-1 | yuutaro.com | daily 11am10.30pm Raw food stars. Sushi and sashimi — toro, engawa, uni, and hotate, a staggering ninety percent of the seafood selected from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo.
ZIPANGU 28/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 0 2651 2180 | facebook.com/TheZipangu | 6am-2am With its creative sushi rolls and traditional Japanese fare, along with more than 20 different kinds of sake, Zipangu is one of the city’s best options for izakaya-style dining.
ZUMA 22 KITCHEN & BAR Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 ext 2345 | dusit.com | MonSun, 6pm-10pm Food influenced by Pacific Rim cultures served in portions made to share, crafted by a young Thomas Edison of a chef who isn’t afraid to experiment: this is informal fine dining at its best. The dishes encompass the cuisines of faraway places, from Peru to Japan to the islands in between in the big blue, reflecting Hawaii-native Chef Ramirez’s multinational roots. They’re fresh in taste, balanced in texture, and presented with the fastidious touch of a modern artist. Even the smallest touches suggest a future of brilliant creations.
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Ground Fl, 159 Rajadamri Road | 0 2252 4707 | zumarestaurant.com | 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm This izakaya-style joint delivers. Fish and beef get equal treatment, each prepared with duteous touch. Dishes come out in no precise order and can be shared or eaten individually.
MIDDLE EASTERN ARABESQUE 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2656 9440 | facebook.com/ arabesquerestaurantbangkokthailand | 11am2am The menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures. As well as dishes that fans of Middle Eastern cuisine will notice, such as hummus, moussaka and tagine (clay pot stews), it includes some they probably won’t.
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33 Soi Sukhumvit 16 | 08 8540 1001 | tensui. co | 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok, but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience than at Ten-Sui. It’s worth noting that this place is high-end, with prices to match.
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No.88 in soi connecting Thong Lor 5 to 9, Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2712 8447 | facebook.com/ torofreshsushi | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm Rather old-fashioned, there’s nothing fancy about this place —in a city where style often strong-arms substance, that’s part of its charm. Reservations are recommended if you want to sit at a table instead of the sushi bar.
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Treat your mom to a feast from the French Riviera this Mother’s Day. For only B699++, enjoy a classic starter of Farcis Niçois, an entrée of sea bass with rock salt and cinnamon, and a sumptuous dessert of vanilla cake soufflé with Grand Marnier, as well as one glass of wine.
www.caferivierabkk.com l Sukhumvit Road Soi 23, first street on the right l Reservations: 095 049 5705, 02 259 3033 90 | AUGUST 2015
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listings BEIRUT Sukhumvit Soi 2, Ploenchit Center | 0 2656 7377 | beirut-restaurant.com | 10am-10pm A Bangkok classic serving classic Lebanese dishes at reasonable prices. The hummus and falafel are praiseworthy.
SHAHRAZAD 6/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1| 0 2251 3666 | 9am-3am The grand old dame of Middle Eastern dining, where the baba ghanoush is just as excellent as the grilled lamb leg. The cuisine spans the Middle East, with a nod to Iranian. Authentic and recommended.
MEXICAN EL OSITO 888/23-24 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd | 0 2650 9581 | elositobkk.com | Mon-Sat 11am11.30pm New York meets Madrid. A neighbourhood Dean& DeLuca during the day, with its own smoker, churro machine, and deli sandwiches like the Reuben, it morphs into a Spanish tapas bar-cumrestaurant at night.
EL DIABLO’S BURRITOS 330 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2259 4140 | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11.30am-11pm The enormous burritos are the stars of the show. They make their own tortillas on the premises, too. The tacos are particularly impressive. The salsa and toppings are light, refreshing, with just enough spice.
MÉJICO 2nd floor, Groove@CentralWorld | 0 2252 6660 | mejico.asia | 11am-12am
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The menu tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
SABROSO 24/5 Sukumvit Soi 23 | 0 2262 0997 | sabrosomex.com | Tue-Sun 3pm-10pm A small, sexy space run by a Mexican chef, where honest south-of-the-border fare shines. Try the chef’s chicken tinga, best savoured with a glass of sangría.
SEÑOR PICO 1F Rembrandt Hotel 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk | 5pm-1am Nowhere else in town are there dishes such as aguachile de camarón, common in Mexico but practically unknown elsewhere. More familiar fare like tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and enchiladas are found on the menu, too.
TACOS Y SALSA 49 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 08 6346 0822, 08 6346 0822 | tacosnsalsa.com | Daily 3pm-12am A brightly-coloured haunt, decorated with the owner’s own artwork, serving up authentic Mexican food and tasty margaritas. A great spot to satisfy any Mexican cravings.
SEAFOOD RAW BAR 440/9 Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2713 8335 | facebook. com/TheRawBarBKK | Mon-Fri 5.30pm-12am, Sat-Sun 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-12am
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Oysters, tartare, carpaccio, ceviche: it’s all raw here, and it’s all very fresh and delicious. This is a nice low-key spot to shuck some shellfish, enjoy some wine, and hang out with friends.
SEAFOOD MARKET AND RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit Soi 24, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2261 2071-5, 0 2661 1252-9, 0 2259 6580-1 | seafood.co.th | 11.30am-11.30pm Fresh, high-quality seafood in the heart of the city is the calling card of this longstanding establishment. The interior is aquarium-like, making it a fun place for dinner with family and friends. There’s also tons of local and imported seafood for sale at the counter.
SNAPPER 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2651 1098 | snapper-bangkok.com | Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight Don’t expect a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients, but rather simple preparation rounded out with elegant presentation. Of course, one of the best fish and chips in Bangkok resides here, and you can’t go wrong with that.
THE OYSTER BAR 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 | 0 2212 4809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know a restaurant takes seafood seriously when several pages of the menu are devoted entirely to oysters. Big appetites should eschew the shells and instead try the seafood platter: a pile of oysters, scallops, shrimp, crab, caviar, and much more.
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listings
SPANISH EL CHIRINGUITO 221 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd | 08 6340 4791 | facebook.com/elchiringuitobangkok | Thu-Sat 6pm-12am On the surface, a tapas bar. Small dishes and high-quality alcohol, a space filled with antiques: it’s an implant from Madrid dropped neatly into the Bangkok beehive.
BARCELONA GAUDÍ Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2661 7410 | barcelona-thai.com | Tue-Sun 11am11pm The chef and founding partners are proud of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows in the incredible tapas on the menu, from prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the traditional Sunday paella.
STEAK & BURGER BURGER FACTORY 3 Soi Ekkamai 10 | 0 2714 4249 | facebook. com/theburgerfactory | Sun-Thu 11.30am11pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-midnight Serves some of the most consistently good hamburgers in the city, and they come with a healthy range of haute toppings. Wash your choice down with a vanilla milkshake and seal the deal with some curly fries.
FIREPLACE GRILL InterContinental Bangkok 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0444 ext. 5505 | Mon-Fri noon2.30pm, daily 6.30pm-10.30pm This perennial favourite has all the attributes you’d expect in a renowned
steakhouse, not least a superb selection of aged and chilled cuts from some of Australia’s top meat producers.
NEW YORK STYLE STEAK & BURGER 28 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2262 0920 | nysteakandburger.com | 11am-11pm It’s all about freshness. The burgers are ground each morning. Vegetables are sourced from the Royal Project in Chiang Mai. Crunchy buns are ordered from Maison Jean Philippe.
PRIME Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 6pm-11pm Some of the best flame-grilled steaks in the city, now abetted by high-quality seafood. It’s a welcome sophistication, befitting the sweeping views over the Chao Phraya.
THE U.S. STEAKHOUSE 156-158 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 08 7993 3527 | theussteakhouse.com | Tue-Sat 4pm-10.30pm Start with a big bowl of chunky, homemade clam chowder, before moving on to the main attraction: flame-broiled steaks, including New York strip loin, rib eye, filet mignon, and Australian T-bone.
THAI BASIL 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit | 0 2649 8366 | basilbangkok.com | Sun-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6pm-10.30pm A glittering array of Thai favourites — it’s not over-the-top in innovation, but
there isn’t a false note, either. This is Thai comfort food taken to a whole new plane.
BENJARONG Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 6pm-10pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The Dusit Thani’s signature Thai restaurant offers inventive dishes from the Kingdom’s annals, from north to south.
BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 | blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, the flagship sits in a gorgeous old mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish.
BO.LAN 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | 0 2260 2962 | bolan. co.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-10.30pm Authentic, but daring, Thai food at one of the top restaurants in Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this place is so popular year after year.
CHILI HIP Centara Watergate Pavilion Hotel, 567 Ratchaprop Rd | 0 2625 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | 5pm-11pm daily Wide, unobstructed views from a perch over Pratunam, and a menu consisting mostly of authentic Thai and Asian
SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit soi 24 (Kasame), Sukhumvit Rd., Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 THAILAND Tel. 02 661 1252-9, 02 259 6580-1 Fax. 02 261 2073 Email. globalmarketing@seafood.co.th
www.seafood.co.th
RESERVATION Tel. 02 261 2071-5 92 | AUGUST 2015
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listings flavours. There is almost no covered seating, so bear that in mind when the rains come.
CHON The Siam hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd | 0 2206 6999 | thesiamhotel.com | 12.pm-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm Sits in one of three beautifully preserved wooden houses. A small home-style menu offers food worth returning for. Nice for a romantic evening.
ERAWAN TEA ROOM 2nd Fl, Erawan Bangkok Mall, 494 Rajadamri Rd | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | 0 2254 6250 | 10am-10pm, Afternoon Tea 2.30pm-6pm Known for its amazing high tea, this place also serves traditional Thai cuisine in a nostalgic setting that overlooks the consistently crowded Erawan Shrine. Packaged products and a wide selection of teas from India, China, Sri Lanka, and Thailand are also available.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE AND MUSEUM 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | 0 2612 3601 | jimthompson.com | Noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm The city’s number-two tourist attraction is home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous setting with surprisingly unusual Thai food. Factor in the generous happy hours, and there’s no reason to be sniffy about the place.
KRUA APSORN Dinso Rd | 02 685 4531| kruaapsorn.com | Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm Quintessential Thai food served in a lowkey shophouse in the old town. There’s a reason this place is so beloved by locals.
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PRAI RAYA 59 Sukhumvit 8 (BTS Nana)| 0 2253 5556 | facebook.com/PraiRayaSukhumvit8 | daily 10.30am-10.30pm If you think Southern dishes are nothing more than heat and more heat, Prai Raya begs to differ. The food here balances spice and subtle flavours to perfection, delivering a taste of Phuket with grace.
RUEN URAI The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd | 0 2266 8268 | ruen-urai.com | Noon-11pm Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients.
SALA RATTANAKOSIN BANGKOK 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 0 2231 2588 | salarattanakosin.com | 7am-10pm Thanks to the vistas, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. The menu offers comfort food and a few Euro items, too. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass.
SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2714 7708 | soulfoodmahanakorn.com | 6pm-Midnight Run by an American food writer turned chef, this tiny Thong Lo establishment serves some of the most authentic Thai food in the city and is a sure bet for a great meal.
THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953 | facebook.com/ TheNeverEndingSummer | Tue-Sun 11am-11pm
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Located in Thonburi, occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers an extensive, changing menu inspired by the favourite childhood dishes of one of the owners.
THE OWL 194/16-17 Ladprao Rd | 09 6016 2499 | theowlbkk.com | 5pm-12pm A three-story bar-bistro offering Lad Phrao a refined spin on the local cantina. There’s delicious Thai food to be shared, wellcrafted cocktails, and a warm ambiance that lends itself to conversation.
VIETNAMESE SAIGON RECIPE 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2662 6311 | saigon-recipe.com | 11am-3pm, 5am10pm The well-designed dishes here reward closer inspection, as flavours reveal themselves in prescribed order. The portions are perfect for sharing, and the dishes come packed with fresh herbs, vegetables, and spices.
XUAN MAI Soi Samakee, Pak Kret, Nonthaburi | 08 7077 0605 | xuanmairestaurant.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30 There’s some overlap with Thai food in the ingredients and flavours, but the exquisite combinations at this much-loved venue are subtle and more complex than many Thai dishes. The former Thong Lor standout has recently moved to the suburbs, but the food remains the same.
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NIGHTLIFE IN THE MOOD FOR MOLAM
The Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band is making a special live appearance at small bar Studio Lam (Sukhumvit 51) on August 19. Fresh off their tour of Europe, the band will be whole — a rare treat for fans of their funky roots music. The group has gained more and more well-deserved critical acclaim over the years, which has seen them flying across the globe, from the UK to Japan. The show starts at 9.30pm and tickets cost B300. Arrive early, because space is limited.
BORGEOUS BACK IN THE BIG MANGO
Borgeous is back for a second round on August 5. The American DJ rides in on a wave of success following his last show in the city. This time, he’s taking over Live RCA. EDM fans are doubtless familiar with tracks “Tsunami” and “Wildfire.” His recent collaboration with impresario Thomas Gold, “Beast,” is currently heating up dance floors. The show starts at 9pm. For more information, including ticket prices, check facebook.com/epicbangkok.
A STIMULATING NIGHT OUT
The monthly G-Spot party paints the town neon on August 15. Held on the third floor of Mango Tree on the River at the happening Yodpiman River Walk, the gay-friendly bash features live deep house sets by DJ Yui and DJ Dee Iris, as well as a special show by Pangina Heals, Bangkok’s most glamorous provocateur. The party runs from 7pm until 1am and involves lots of fun and games and free drinks.
BE LIKE THE COOL KIDS
Echosmith, the American pop-rock group made up of four siblings, famous for the song “Cool Kids,” makes their first appearance in Bangkok at Palladium Music Hall on August 7. Doors open at 6pm and tickets are priced at B1800. For more information, visit facebook.com/ feohthai or gixtix.com.
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review
WISHBEER HOME BAR - Your Wish is Their Command -
S
pace is at a premium on Sukhumvit. As boundaries narrow from the deluge of development, and properties reach higher and higher toward the sky, it takes novel ideas to alter the landscape. Like, for instance, repurposing a temporary structure destined for rubble into a slick, new pop-up bar. Jérôme Le Louer founded Wishbeer in 2012 to provide a service that he — and, clearly, hundreds of others — had dreamed of having in Bangkok: good beer delivered to his door, at a fair price, without hassle. Steady growth over the last two years in the craft beer industry, as well as his brand, led to more beers available on the website and more interest in the service. Sensing a golden opportunity to take a leap forward, Le Louer did what all good entrepreneurs do: he invested in his company. The Wishbeer Home Bar occupies the first floor of a building shared with the sales gallery of The Lofts Ekamai, a luxury condo being built a stone’s throw away from Bangkok’s busiest artery. The ground-floor bar is a well-lit, warm, almost warehouse-like environment, closer in ambiance to a café than bar. “It’s supposed to feel comfortable,” says Le Louer. “That’s why we called it the ‘home bar.’” Working within a structure designed to sell luxury condo units has helped achieve the lived-in vibe, of course, but the fixtures and facilities filling out the space
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have driven it home. The bar top and chairs are made from natural-coloured wood laminate. Abstract paintings on the walls add splashes of colour. There’s a café in the corner selling coffee and tea, as well as locally-baked goods. The centrepiece, though, are the minimal metal shelves displaying the 500-plus bottles of beer and cider that Wishbeer sells. Customers can walk in, buy a bottle or ten (there’s a 15 per cent discount for beer bought off the rack), and carry them home. Alternatively, they can plop down on the sofa, or grab a seat in the garden, and enjoy craft beer on draft or rare bottles from the fridge. Since the bar will only be around until the end of the year, when the building will be razed, there isn’t a kitchen. There are, however, food trucks. Deli Q, Angel Wings, and El Mariachi currently supply hungry drinkers with hardy meals. Other mobile munchies are expected to join the parade soon. Although the bar will regrettably go the way of Soi 38, Le Louer and his team are already in search of a permanent home. So worry not beer fans: good things are brewing at Wishbeer.
WISHBEER HOME BAR The Lofts Ekamai, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2392 1403 | wishbeer.com, facebook.com/wishbeerbar | daily 7.30am-midnight
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listings
BARS 24 OWLS BY SOMETIMES 39/9 Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2391 4509 | 24owls.com | Open 24 hours A bijou 24-hour bistro and bar where cocktails are a must. A delight by day and deep into the night, 24 Owls offers a unique round-the-clock dining option.
AMBAR Sukhumvit Soi 15, FourPoints by Sheraton | 0 2309 3288 | ambarbangkok.com | 4pm-2am Set eight stories up, this rooftop bar provides a more relaxed atmosphere than most in the category, thanks to cosy couches and beds where locals and travellers mingle over cocktails and tunes at sunset.
COYOTE’S Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2651 3313 | coyotebangkok.com | daily 12pm-2am Olé! A long-standing Mexican restaurant/ bar, where the margaritas flow like water, especially during ladies’ night, and the meals always satisfy.
DARK BAR Ekkamai 10, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2381 9896, 09 0528 4646 | facebook.com/darkbarbangkok | Wed, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am A tiny and, well, dark bar serving beer and booze at cheap prices. It’s popular with hipsters and counter-culturists.
BARLEY BISTRO 4/F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 08 7033 3919 | barleybistro.com | 5pm-late Check out the open-air rooftop, littered with fans, bean bags, and funky barley stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for post-work/pre-club cocktails.
BREW Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 0 2185 2366 | brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am See and be seen at this cool Thong Lo vanguard with well-stocked fridges and a healthy list of foreign beer and cider on tap. A beer-lover’s dream.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2253 4648 | cheapcharliesresort.com | Mon-Sat 5pm-12am A no-brainer meet-up spot drawing crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists inthe-know who fill up on cheap beers and gin and tonics before heading off to party.
CRAFT Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 3320, 08 1919 5349 | craftbangkok.com | 2pm-12am Serving craft beer on draft in all its glory, this outdoor patio-bar plays host to food trucks each weekend, spins good tunes, and, most importantly, operates over 40 taps. 98 | AUGUST 2015
HYDE & SEEK 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2168 5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am A dead ringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Ian Kittichai heads the kitchen, and the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow.
J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY
BADMOTEL 331/4-5 Soi Thong Lor | 0 2712 7288 | 5pm1am | facebook.com/badmotel | 5pm-1am A three-floor joint minimally decorated and painted bright white, the ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined garden make a pleasant spot to sip on the venue’s “Creation Cocktails.”
This Belgian-leaning bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapasstyle bar snacks.
QUP 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2252 3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Qup (née Q Bar) is well-known for pouring stiff drinks — there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka — and its finger-on-the-pulse music, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. There’s a flirty crowd every night and a maximalist style. This is one of Bangkok’s most consistent clubs, one always primed to deliver a great night.
FACE BAR 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 0 2713 6048 | facebars. com | 11.30am-1am This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion, a dimly-lit joint that summons deluxe drinkers with cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails.
THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB Sukhumvit 22 | 08 7000 0795, 08 0733 8438 | fgc.in.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm A member’s only place where guests are always welcome, screening films in a tiny cinema on the second floor and serving reasonably priced drinks on the first.
HOUSE OF BEERS Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 | 0 2392 3513 | houseofbeers.com | 11am-midnight
Near Soi Thonglor A secret bar built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his whims. In Thong Lo, somewhere on an oddnumbered single-digit soi. Open every evening, if you can find it.
JAM! 41 Soi Charoen Rat 1 | 089 889 8059 | facebook.com/jamcafebkk | Tue-Sun 6pm12am A cool, dive-y small bar in a formerly bar-less neighbourhood whose claims to fame are frequent cult movie nights and underground DJ sets.
MIKKELLER 26 Ekkamai Soi 10 Yaek 2 | 0 2381 9891 | mikkellerbangkok.com | 5pm-12am An enclave for beer geeks, distinguished by its many dozens of taps and lush garden. A sure bet for anyone in search of a good — and hard-to-find — craft beer.
MOOSE Ekamai Soi 21 | 0 2108 9550 | facebook.com/ moosebangkok | Mon-Sat 6pm-2am A retro-inspired hipster bar decorated with flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads, giving it a living room-esque ambience. A preferred venue for all manner of underground DJ sets and live shows.
NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST Silom Soi 7 | 0 2636 6622 | namsaah.com | 5pm-2am Set in a mansion that was once a soda bottling company’s office, the perfect place to enjoy intimate conversation with friends over cocktails. bangkok101.com
listings OSKAR BISTRO 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 3377 | oskarbistro.com | 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11.30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby, and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. Most people come for pre-club drinks.
SHADES OF RETRO Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | 0 2714 9450 | facebook.com/shadesofretrobar | 3pm-1am It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lo hotspot stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and a grandmother’s attic of antiques.
SMALLS 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1 | 09 5585 1398 | facebook.com/smallsbkk | Wed-Mon 8.30pm2am Decorated with vintage furniture and art to give it a bohemian vibe, this favourite neighbourhood dive offers a wide selection of beers, wines by the glass, and hard-to-find liquors.
SWAY Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10 | 0 2711 6052 | swaybkk.com | daily 6pm-2am Chicken wings, poutine, and ribs star on the menu, and craft beer on draft draw flocks of loyal beer drinkers.
THE ALCHEMIST 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 3549 2055 | thealchemistbkk.com | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight This stylish, stripped down drinking hole near Cheap Charlie’s draws its own loyal crowd, thanks to an excellent playlist on top of craft beer, assorted martinis, and some of the best mojitos in town.
TUBA 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 0 2711 5500 | design-athome.com | 11am-2am A Bangkok classic, room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch. Some come to snag a goofy tchotchke, but it works best as a bar, as there are few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand.
U.N.C.L.E. Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 0406 | avunculus.com | Tue-Sat 6pm-1am One of the most enticing small bars in Bangkok, a hideaway that exudes class, where you can get cocktails made to your specifications. bangkok101.com
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VIVA AVIV River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 | vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Reminiscent of a hip bar along Singapore’s Clarke Quay, with bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade. Think tropical maritime meets dashes of outright whimsy.
WHISGARS 981 Silom Rd | 0 2661 3220 | whisgars.com | 2pm-2am Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of this rapidly expanding branch. Each outlet is a little different, but all cater to the finer things in life.
WONG’S PLACE 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen, Rama IV Rd | 08 1901 0235 The very definition of a dive. If you’ve ended up here, you’ve either had a tremendous night or one that you hope not to remember in the morning.
BARS WITH A VIEW ABOVE ELEVEN 33rd Fl Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack.
AMOROSA 4F Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd| 0 2221 9158 | arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails, and a showstopper of a view over the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun.
DISTIL 64/F State Tower, Silom Rd | 0 2624 9999 | lebua.com/distil | daily 5pm-1am Sizzling high in the sky, this posh spot boasts incredible views of the cityscape and luxurious whiskies and cocktails with price tags to match them.
HEAVEN 20F Zen@Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am AUGUST 2015 | 99
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listings
When the golden feature bar lights up like a metal sun, Zen feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital, serving up balanced cocktails and a beautiful backdrop.
LONG TABLE 25F 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 0 2302 2557 | longtablebangkok.com | 11am2am Known for its communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. Twenty-five floors up, you can glug signature cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of highflying Bangkok.
The al fresco turret offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come — when daylight fades, a live jazz band kicks in and the city lights up like a circuit-board.
SKY BAR/DISTIL 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 0 2624 9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, offering panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with new visitors as well as those intent on rediscovering it.
NEST 9th F, Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2305 4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5pm2am An urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of Le Fenix Hotel, laid-back on weekdays and early evenings, but rowdy on weekends, especially during special parties.
OCTAVE 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back punchy, refreshing cocktails. DJs spin house through the night, neatly setting the vein.
PHRANAKORN BAR Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd | 0 2622 0282 | facebook.com/ Phranakornbarandgallery | 6pm-1am An old favourite of local art students and creative types, mostly for its indie/80s/90s playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views of the floodlit Golden Mount temple.
RED SKY 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | 6pm-1am 100 | AUGUST 2015
THREE SIXTY Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am The only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, year round, setting a romantic mood as the first stars appear.
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MOON BAR 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | 5pm-1am An icon among rooftop bars, offering 360-degree views of the urban sprawl in smart surroundings. The perfect spot for honeymooners.
America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts. Wines are available at solid prices, and cocktails include home-made vodka infusions.
SOULBAR 945 Charoenkrung Rd | 083 092 2266 | Facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok | MonFri 6pm-1am Metalwork, modern art, and smoking live music form the backbone of this shophouse turned small bar. Sitting at the split of Charoenkrung Road near River City, SoulBar has set roots in Chinatown, territory that was long neglected in the nightlife scene, and gives the city something it’s never had. With Kombucha-beer concoctions, local craft beer, stiff cocktails, and unbeatable Motown, funk, and soul that rock the glass-framed walls through midnight, this little vanguard has kicked off an old town revival that shows no signs of slowing.
ST. REGIS BAR St Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2207 7777 | stregis.com | Mon-Fri 10am1am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am The rectangular venue eyes the Royal Bangkok Sports Club through a large plate-glass window, a lovely spot at sunset, even better on Sunday afternoons, when you can spy on horse races with a fine malt whiskey in hand.
THE SPEAKEASY Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era
567 Rachaprarop Rd | 0 2625 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com/centara/cwb | 5pm-1am Named to reflect high-fashion ambitions, it’s sleek enough to resemble a runway. Sofas line the perimeter, attracting a young, chatty crowd. When it comes to the cocktails, prepare your tongues for the heat.
WOOBAR W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road | 0 2344 4131 | wbangkok.com | daily 9am-12am Chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release, or, better yet, a weekend party.
CLUBS FUNKY VILLA 225/9-10 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2711 6970 | facebook.com/funkyvillabkk | 8pm-2am Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to shake off the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs.
KU DÉ TA 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2108 2000 | kudeta.net | 6pm-late One of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. A snazzy LED “chandelier” hangs over the dance floor, twinkling in time with the music.
LEVELS 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 2308 3246 | facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am bangkok101.com
listings One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of the buzzy atmosphere.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0382 | mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok | 10pm-late Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend a desert tent feel.
ONYX RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 08 1645 1166 | onyxbangkok.com | 8pm-2am An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. The kicker: a giant video screen looming over the DJ booth.
ROUTE 66 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | 0 2203 0936, 08 1440 9666 | route66club.com | 8pm-2am RCA’s longest surviving super-club, with three zones to explore, each with its own bar, look, and music policy. Crammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais.
SPASSO Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-2.30am A favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it’s a sedate Italian restaurant. After hours, it transforms into a club and cocktail bar and really hits its stride.
THE CLUB 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 0 2629 1010 | theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am In the middle of the backpacker ghetto, this techno castle lends a fairy-tale vibe, with lasers and UV lights harking back to mid-90s trance raves. The music is loud, a full range of four-to-the-floor beats and cranium-rattling techno.
TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2258 3758 | titaniumclub.com | 6pm-1.30am Congenial hostesses clad in ao dai; a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly; over 90 varieties of vodka. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side. bangkok101.com
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PUBS BULLY’S Sukhumvit Rd, between soi 2 and 4 | 0 2656 4609 | facebook.com/bullysbkk | daily until late Big burgers and beer are the name of the game at this American-style pub. Spacious and stocked with pool tables and TVs.
FLANN O’BRIEN’S 2194 Charoenkrung 72-74 Rd, Asiatique| 0 2108 4005| flann-obriens.com | 3pm-12am A sweeping Irish-themed pub featuring daily drink specials, all-day breakfast menus, and live bands throughout the week.
GULLIVERS 2/2 Khao San Rd | 0 2629 1988 | gulliverbangkok.com | 11am-2am A spacious club/bar at the corner of Khao San with plenty of affordable drinks, the place to go to end your night with no regrets (and wake up with plenty of them in the morning).
THANRAHAN’S 12/1 Sukhumvit 4 | 0 2255 0644 | hanrahansbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Over a decade old and still going strong, this three-floor Irish pub with a rooftop terrace adds a touch of sophistication to Sukhumvit Soi 4
MOLLY MALONE’S 1/5-6 Soi Convent, Silom | 0 2266 7160-1 | mollymalonesbangkok.com | 9am-1am Dark wood, dark lighting, bright atmosphere, this long-standing Irish favourite features one of the best Sunday roasts in town, not to mention long happy hours and live entertainment.
MULLIGAN’S IRISH BAR 265 Khao San Road | 0 2629 4477 | mulligansthailand.com | Always open A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals.
THE AUSTRALIAN 37 Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2651 0800 | theaustralianbkk.com | 9am-late A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. AUGUST 2015 | 101
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THE BLACK SWAN Soi Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2229 4542 | blackswanbangkok.com | 8am-late An amber-lit favourite that relocated to Sukhumvit 19 that offers myriad drink deals and spectacular Sunday roasts.
THE DUBLINER 595/18-19 Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2204 1841-2 | thedublinerbangkok.com | daily 8am-12.30am Irish-themed and Irish-owned, this watering hole is preferred among expats for its generous happy hours and nighttime live music.
THE HUNTSMAN 138 Sukhumvit Rd (Landmark Hotel) | 0 2254 0404 | landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub | 11.30am-2am English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a famous Sunday roast.
THE PENALTY SPOT Sukhumvit Soi 29 | 0 2661 6164 | facebook. com/thepenaltyspot | 3pm-2am Cosy, atmospheric, the crowds forming mostly to watch live sports on TV and drink beer on draft.
THE PICKLED LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 7/1, opposite Maxim’s Hotel | 0 2651 1114 | thepickledliver.com | 3pm-late Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and more make this landmark pub, now in its second incarnation, a perennial favourite.
THE PINTSMAN 332 United Center Building, Silom Rd | 0 2234 2874 | facebook.com/thepintsman | 11am-late A basement bar in Silom serving pints of draft beer and big plates of food. The requisite pool tables and live entertainment get this place hopping on weekends.
THE QUEEN VIC Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 7417 | queenvicbkk. com | 9am-1am An indoor-outdoor arrangement up the road from the pit that is Soi Cowboy, with a semi-circular bar serving standard cocktails, various draft beers, and substantial Western fare.
THE ROBIN HOOD Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 3390 | robinhoodbangkok.com | 10am-12am All the pub essentials are covered: live sports, a chatty atmosphere, wood features, pints of draft beer and cider, and copious drink deals. 102 | AUGUST 2015
THE ROYAL OAK 595/10 Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 1652 | royaloakthailand.com | 10am-1am An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions, draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes, among other forms of entertainment.
THE SPORTSMAN Sukhumvit Soi 13 (The Trendy Condo) | 0 2168 7242 | sportsbarbangkok.com | 8am-2am With 26 high-definition TVs and eight projectors, this is the place to go for live sporting events. Of course, there’s beer, food, and bar games like billiards, too.
LIVE MUSIC APOTEKA 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 | apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom cocktails.
ADHERE THE 13TH 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) | 08 9769 4613 | 6pm-midnight One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals.
BAMBOO BAR The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 0 2659 9000 | mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon.
BROWN SUGAR 469 Phra Sumen Road | 08 9499 1378 | brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night.
CAFÉ TRIO G Floor, Portico Complex, 31 Soi Lang Suan | 0 2252 6929 | 6pm- 1am, closed the 2nd and 4th Sun of the month
One of the only bars worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Loved for its jazz and art, a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars.
CM2 LIVE JAM Ground Floor, Novotel Siam Square Soi 6 | 0 2209 8888 | novotelbkk.com/cm2-live-jam | Thu-Sat 7pm-12am A subterranean party cave that packs them in, especially on weekends, when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it.
FAT GUT’Z 264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 0 27149 832 | fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am This sleek saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people listening to live blues, indulging in carefully crafted cocktails, and drinking in the vague industrial-nautical theme.
MAGGIE CHOO’S Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd | 0 2635 6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos | Tue-Sun 6pm-2am The main decoration is the leggy cabaret girls, but the real attraction is the live jazz, some of the best the city has to offer. The atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens.
PARKING TOYS 14 Prasert-Manukitch Rd, Lat Phrao | 0 2907 2228 | parkingtoys.in.th | 7pm-2am A spacious garage-style venue, filled to the brim with random antiques, known for stellar live rock, ska, and rockabilly that runs into the early morning. Far out of town, but worth the trip.
SAXOPHONE 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd | 0 2246 5472 | saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2am A must-visit live music joint near Victory Monument, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every night of the week.
TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY 462/61 Rama III Rd | 0 2678 1114 | tawandang. co.th | 5pm-1am A vast, barrel-shaped beer hall that packs in the revellers who come for towers of micro-brewed beer; Thai, Chinese, and German grub (especially deep-fried pork knuckle); and, not least, the famous Fong Nam house band. bangkok101.com
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VICKTEERUT By Gaby Doman
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ickteerut is channelling freedom and relaxation for its spring/ summer 2015 collection, “Spirited Away,” which means there’s a fair amount of flowy fabrics and loose tailoring. But what the collection lacks in clingy tailoring, it makes up for in fuss. If you’re planning on walking through any wind machines this summer, this collection — with its inexplicably shredded skirts, dresses, and top — will ensure you strike a cool silhouette while you do. If, however, your summer plans involve general day-to-day activities, such as walking through doors and getting into cars, you might want to be wary of this potential hazard. But, practicality aside (when did a true fashionista ever care about that, anyway?), there are some stunning pieces in this collection. Pussycat bow shirts and double-breasted a-line dresses provide a fun twist on traditional office wear. The look is powerful, sexy, and very wearable, which is an appealing combination for the fashionconscious professional. Cutaways are another strong look throughout the collection, with slithers of exposed belly making for a collection that’s both accessible to the average woman (i.e. one who hasn’t got a washboard stomach) and bang on-trend. Cutaways are also featured on the back of some of the collection’s tops, giving a fresh take on the trend — still gutsy, but perhaps a little more refined than revealing flashes of belly. Despite the fuss of the designs —there are frills, fringing, cutaways, and plenty of asymmetrical elements at play here — the collection maintains its effortlessness and minimal aesthetic. Masculine elements, such as oversized trousers and buttoned-up sleeveless tunics, offset very feminine detailing, including the bows, pleats, and frills. A simple palette of dove grey, white, black, and powder blue is further softened with light fabrics, such as silk, chiffon, satin, and cotton. There’s no denying there’s a little bit of a mishmash of influences at play here, but any collection that incorporates a double-breasted coatdress, alongside a flared trouser suit and tailored onesie that seems to be inspired by Little Lord Fauntleroy, we can’t help but love. Vickteerut 1st Fl. Siam Paragon 1st Fl The Emporium 2nd Fl CentralWorld 2nd Fl Central Chidlom Main Showroom: 122 Sukumvit 55 Thonglor Soi 4 0 2392 1578 vickteerut.com
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AUGUST 2015 | 105
SHOPPING
unique boutique
VUUDH BY PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA
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or some of us, the world is our oyster. Longing to travel the world, or recapture past adventures, we recall the vibrant colours of India, the heady perfume of tea in Taiwan, and the patina of grass over fresh earth in Japan. Aromatics have a powerful effect on the mind, elevating mood by enticing the memory. Inspired by his own travel experiences, Vudhichai Harnpanich created an outlet through which to share distinct scents from across of Asia. His luxurious interior fragrance brand, Vuudh, provides aromatic snapshots of eastern worlds. The fragrances are made from onehundred per cent natural ingredients, like lemongrass, lavender, and orange blossom. Each corresponds to specific moments imprinted in the founder’s sense of nostalgia: getting a whiff of oolong tea during a spring shower, or being entranced by the beauty of Mumbai’s shoreline and ubiquitous rose garlands. The exclusive scents represent the unique cultures, art, and civilizations from the East, featuring nine cities in particular. The whirling dervish that is Bangkok is embodied in Siamese jasmine. For Beijing, it’s the scent of pure white lotus. Chiang Mai appears in the form of Himalayan magnolia blossoms. And Singapore’s multicultural past and present is represented through sandalwood and orange blossom. Taipei, Kobe, Mumbai, Phuket, and Shanghai come to life through their own special fragrances, as well.
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Vuudh’s products come in a variety of styles and accessories. Cloud diffusers and vases are available in shades of black and white, a contemporary kick that speaks to Vuudh’s elegance. These little trappings can be used to supplement décor, sliding neatly into the background as complementary pieces. Dangling decorative accessories — Zodiac Charm, Fortune Sculpture, and Vitality Sculpture — enhance practical use with panache. They’re unique ways to retain favourite scents in home or office environments for hours. The cast of scents also appears in the brand’s wax candles, which come in a larger aromatic size and a smaller travel size. Both provide the benefits of aromatherapy, the lingo of spas that seeks to balance body and mind. The scents are available in 50 ml and 95 ml spray options. Vuudh also provides house-designed box sets as souvenirs or presents, which work especially well for Mother’s Day. The packaging is inspired by authentic Asian architecture (pagodas, Japanese barns, ancient Chinese palaces), adding an element of mystique to the delicate contours of home furnishing.
VUUDH Central Embassy, Fl 4 | vuudh.com daily 10am-9pm
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treatment
Lavana Spa - The Sweet Smell of Relaxation BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
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ucked away from the hustle and bustle of Asoke, the tranquil little shelter of Lavana Spa is a destination in and of itself. The groups that often fill the reception area suggest just how popular a place it is among tourists, but even celebrities are drawn to its warming embrace — the famous Rain, also known as the King of K-Pop, paid a visit when he brought his show to Bangkok. Minimal décor keeps the spa looking neat and tidy. Right at the door, its ambiance exudes relaxation. The corridors are brightened with elegant Asian crafts, such as kimonos, sculptures, and stone carvings. There are 48 treatment rooms, each filled out with similar imagery and with its own shower room. As well as a variety of impeccable massages, Lavana offers very reasonable prices. Thai massage, for instance, starts at less than B1000. There numerous packages to choose from, each of which comes with a variety of treatments: body massages and scrubs, head massages, facial scrubs, and relaxing foot massages. The six-hourlong Lavana Celadon (B5170 or B5440 for oil massage with an herbal ball) is as pleasant a way as any to fill half of a day. The package includes a facial, head and foot massages, a body scrub, and an aromatic oil massage. In between treatments, guests are served drinks and light snacks. The herbal ball the masseuse uses is made daily in Lavana’s own workshop, which is located inside the spa; other tools and ingredients used for treatments come from this workshop, too. For those with less time on their hands, the Thai Massage and Herbal Ball (90 min/B940, 120 min/ B1050) 108 | AUGUST 2015
treatment is a good choice. It starts with a traditional Thai massage, with the therapist moving from your back to your arms and legs. Then, a heated herbal ball, made of Thai herbs wrapped in a cotton cloth, is pressed along the body’s meridians to relieve muscle pain and promote the flow of energy. The treatment ends with light stretching, which leaves you feeling loose. Drop by the shopping corner before you leave to pick up souvenirs, such as aromatic oils, homemade soaps, ceramics, and herbal products — lovely little reminders of your visit, whether on a trip from abroad or simply a retreat from the day-to-day grind.
LAVANA SPA 4 Sukhumvit 12, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2229 4510-12 | lavanabangkok.com
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spa promotions
WELLN ESS
SO PAMPERING TREAT FOR MOTHERS Celebrate Mother’s Day and treat your mother to a “So Pampering Treatment,” which includes a warming foot ritual, a red jasmine rice scrub (30 minutes), and an aromatic jasmine massage (90 minutes) for B3900 per person, down from its normal B5500 price.
SO SPA
90-MINUTE TREATS
Fl 11, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 H6835-TH2@Sofitel.com | daily 10am-10pm
At Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, give the special lady in your life the gift of wellness. Enjoy 90-minute massages or treatments from the Royal Thai Massage, De-Stress Massage, Body Scrubs, or Elemis Skin Specific Facials collections. Those who spend B5000++ as a pair receive a complimentary dinner for two at Riverside Terrace’s Mother’s Day celebration on 12 or an Anantara Spa homecare gift valued at B1500.
BELOVED MOM Throughout August, moms can enjoy a special retreat at Spa Cenvaree. The package starts with a relaxing floral foot bath that harnesses the aromatic power of jasmine. It then moves on to a body scrub, which is followed by a massage using anti-aging oils. After the massage is the spa’s signature facial, and it’s all finished with a refreshing herbal tea. The 150-minute treatment costs B2900 for one and B5000 for a couple, giving you a chance to spend quality pampering time with your mom.
SPA CENVAREE Fl 26, Centara Grand at CentralWorld | 0 2100 1234 ext. 6511, 6516 spacgcw@chr.co.th | daily 10am-11pm
EAST MEETS WEST This special package at Spa InterContinental Bangkok features a blend of two luxury spa brands, Primmalai and Kerstin Florian. The treatment includes an hour-long facial rejuvenation followed by an hour of traditional Thai massage, priced at B7500 nett.
ANANTARA SPA Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | spa.ariv@anantara.com | 0 2476 0022 ext. 1563 | daily 10am-10pm
ALGOTIME Throughout August, visit the Devarana Spa for a special kind of rejuvenating facial. The Algotime Nourishing Facial promotion makes use of a special vitamin C mask with a marine life serum that revitalizes skin, giving it a soft, smoother feel and radiant glow after only a single treatment. The promotion is priced at B3000 net per person and B4900 net per couple. Also receive a 15 per cent discount for your next treatment or get a free Devarana massage oil to bring home for mom.
DEVARANA SPA Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | devaranaspa.com | 0 2200 9000 ext. 2301-2 | daily 9am-midnight
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL BANGKOK Fl 36, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Phloenchit Rd spaic@ihgbangkok.com | 2 656 0444 ext. 6288 | daily 9am-11pm
JUST FOR HER
The lovely i.sawan at The Grand Hyatt has four promotions to choose from this month, and your mom will love all of them. The two-hour Harmony Escape (B4500++) combines aromatherapy and a hydrating facial. You can also treat her to the Hot Stone Zen Massage (B3200++), or perhaps a luxurious manicure and pedicure (B2000++). Finally, the spa is offering its 90-minute, age-defying signature spa for the reduced price of B3600++.
Take mom to Vareena Spa at The Westin Grande Sukhumvit for a range of very special treatments using the popular algo-marine ingredients. Choose from the Algo-Silhouette Firming Treatment (B2500++/60 mins), which tightens up skin; the nourishing, skin-rejuvenating Algo-Marine Treatment (B2000++/60 mins); the Algo-Beauty Escape Caress (B2500++/60 mins), which employs thalassotherapy in a jetted tub, as well as massage; and the Algo-Radiant Eye Contour (B1500++/30 mins), which helps eyes look visibly younger.
I.SAWAN
VAREENA SPA
Fl 5, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd isawan.bangh@hyatt.com | 0 2254 6310
Fl 8, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit 259 Sukhumvit 19 vareenainfo@yahoo.com | 0 2207 8000 ext. 8450
A BEVY OF CHOICES
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HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE THRONE HALL Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadamnoen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2216 7368 | jimthompsonhouse. com | 9am-5pm | B100/B50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 8185 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, Daily | B50/B20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd | 0 2281 1569 | Tue-Sun 9.30am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD PALACE Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 0 2245 4934 | suanpakkad.com | 9am4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden 110 | AUGUST 2015
by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
SHRINES
Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM
ERAWAN SHRINE Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | BTS Chit Lom | free Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | free A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | free If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM 85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) | Ratchaprarop Rd | 0 2245 3008 | bangkokdolls.com | Mon-Sat 8am-5pm
273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 0 2233 7027 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
MADAME TUSSAUDS 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2658 0060 | madametussauds.com/ Bangkok | 10am-9pm | B800/B600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe’s famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd | 0 2653 5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com | Mon-Fri 10am-4pm (App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it’s open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher bangkok101.com
listings chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
MUSEUM OF SIAM 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier | 0 2622 2599 | ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephantback with a canon, and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen. There are always new exhibitions to explore, and, of course, you can walk away with souvenirs from the gift shop.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 0 2224 1333 | thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 | no photo allowed Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam’s main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02621 0044 | nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri | 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hardto-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier | 0 2424 0004 | 9am-5pm | B30 bangkok101.com
This collection of ornate royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN THAI FILM MUSEUM 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom | nfat.org | 0 2482 2013-15 | Sat-Sun | tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; Mon-Fri: by appointment | free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras and props.
PARKS LUMPINI PARK Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Rd | 5am-9pm; cycling/skating 10am-3pm | free The biggest and most popular slice of public space in Central Bangkok, Lumpini Park is 142 acres of trees and grass swen together with wide, mendering concrete paths. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians like to take advantage of its relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. A surprising number of animals also like it here – from turtles and giant monitor lizards, to flocks of crows and the occasional stray cat. Activities include taking a Swan-shaped pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin and pumping iron at the outdoor gym, while live concert recitals and film screenings take place here during the cool season.
BENJASIRI PARK Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22/24 BTS Phrom Phong | 5am-9pm | free Next to the Phrom Phong BTS Skytrain station and Emporium shopping mall, this
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is a great place to escape the Sukhumvit rat race – amble around lakes, find shade under a tree, or admire modern Thai sculptures.
RAMA IX ROYAL PARK Sukhumvit Soi 103, behind Seri Center, Pravet | 0 2328 972 | 5.30pm-7pm | B10 Bangkok’s biggest park spans 200-acres and features a small museum dedicated to the King, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with soothing water features.
SUAN ROD FAI PARK Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd, BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park | 0 2537 9221 | 5am-9pm Also just north of JJ market, this huge park has lots of open space and wild trees, plus a lotus pond, playground, basketball and tennis courts, and a butterfly garden (see opposite). Young locals flock here on weekends to hire a bike and cycle along its wide paths, and with prices for rental only B20 we highly recommend you copy them.
ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (SUAN SAMPRAM) 32 Phet Kasem Rd, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom | 0 3432 2544 | rosegardenriverside.com | 10am-4pm | Garden B50, Show B500 Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf court, spa organic farm and botanical gardens. The cultural shows here are as popular as the lush gardens.
SARANROM PARK Intersection of Rachini / Charoen Krung Rd, Phra Nakhon | 5am-8pm | free This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featuring a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion.
RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES BANGKOK EQUESTRIAN CENTER 20/1 Moo 2 Chalermprakiet Rama 9 Soi 48, Sukhumvit 103 Rd | 0 2328 0273 | Tue-Sun 7.30am-11am, 2pm-5.30pm | bangkokequestriancenter.com Founded by one of the leading horse riding instructors in Thailand, the Bangkok AUGUST 2015 | 111
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Equestrian Center offers stabling, tack gear, grooming, and horse training, among other services. Most riders, however, love it for its riding lessons, from the basics to world-class dressage. There’s also a Pony Club for youngsters, which gives new riders a soft introduction to the horseback riding.
tours let you discover your own Bangkok. You can join tours that examine the city’s history or culinary heritage, day or night, or check out the jungle at Phra Pradaeng.
PEPPERMINT BIKE PARK
EASY KART 31/11 RCA Plaza, Rama 9 Rd | 0 2203 1205 | easykart.net The biggest indoor go-kart track in Bangkok features a night light system, a computer time system, a panoramic bar and restaurant, and a big screen TV. Both beginners and experienced riders are welcome.
ELITE FIGHT CLUB The Waterford Diamond Tower, Sukhumvit 30/1 | 0 2305 6685 | elitefightclub.com This luxury gym and Muay Thai training facility, located in downtown Bangkok, offers both group and private classes in Muay Thai, boxing, and MMA. Facilities include a gym, swimming pool, saunas, and Jacuzzis. Prices vary considerably depending on the package you choose.
FLIGHT EXPERIENCE 1 Sibunruang Building, Convent Rd | 0 2237 9895-6 | 10am-10pm | flightexperiencethailand. com Ever dream of becoming a pilot? Here’s your chance to pilot a Boeing 737-800, but in safer climes than the air. Flight Experience offers professional flight simulation for all levels, so even if it’s your first time in the cockpit simulator, you’ll enjoy an unforgettable flight. The flight packages feature take-offs and landings, challenging approaches, bad weather, and much more.
FLOW HOUSE BANGKOK 120/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 0 2108 5210, 09 9083 8787 | flowhousebangkok.com A flowboarding action club set in the heart of Bangkok, Flow House draws all riders with its FlowRider — a thin sheet of water which flows over a slope to form of a perfect ocean wave. There’s also restaurants, retail shops, and a beach club for those who would rather hang out.
FOLLOW ME BIKE TOURS 126 Sathorn Soi 9 | 0 2286 5891 | followmebiketour.com Experience the “real” Bangkok and see the city’s hidden side by bicycle. The 112 | AUGUST 2015
house, called the Dark Mansion. The ominous bedecked restaurants and bars will send shivers down your spine — or fill you with laughter as your friends freak out but you keep your composure.
THE ESCAPE HUNT EXPERIENCE 399 Interchange Building, Unit C, B2, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2611 2828, 0 2611 2827 | 9.30am-8.30pm | bangkok.escapehunt.com Travel back in time to nineteenthcentury London. Doing your best Sherlock Holmes impression, play the part of the detective as you set about solving mysteries set in an old Victorian house. Teams of two to five people — friends, family, co-workers and employees, tourists, travellers: you name it — can choose from six different game rooms, each with its own set of circumstances, clues, and puzzles. The games are modelled after “escape the room” challenges that have exploded in popularity online, but they’re so much more fulfilling in real life. Each lasts 60 minutes, but all are welcome to stick around and talk about the experience once the challenge is finished, successful or otherwise. Discounted prices are available, but only via advance online booking.
LE CORDON BLEU DUSIT CULINARY SCHOOL 946 The Dusit Thani Building, Rama IV Road, Silom | 0 2237 8877 | lecordonbleudusit.com The renowned global chain Le Cordon Bleu has added a luxurious element to Bangkok’s culinary academia. The school offers a range of cooking programmes for tweens, teens, and adults, giving lessons on international, French, and Thai cuisines, as well as desserts and pastries.
MANSION 7 Ratchada 14, MRT Huay Kwang, Exit 1 | 0 2692 6312 | 6pm- 2am | themansion7.com Mansion7 is perhaps the most bizarre theme mall in Thailand, with its eerie ambiance distinguished by a gigantic moon and creepy dark structures. A highlight of this place is the haunted
Soi Yothinpattana 3 | 09 0980 1368 | facebook. com/PeppermintBikePark This newly opened bike park located at the outskirts of Bangkok offers urbanites a safe environment to cycle within a paved two-kilometre track, including a wooden bridge, a curved path, and a few rolling slopes. Annual membership is available at B200. On top of that, for members entrance costs B100 during the day and B150 at night; for non-members, it’s B150 at day and B200 at night.
PLANET SCUBA BANGKOK 66 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2261 4412-3 | planetscuba.net Having won numerous awards over the years for excellence in teaching standards and diver safety, Planet Scuba has become the one of Thailand’s leading diving centres. The Bangkok branch offers diving courses for beginners up to dive instructors. Diving equipment is sold here, too.
THE JOSEPH BOROSKI BAR & HOSPITALITY SCHOOL BANGKOK Thonglor | 0 2712 6025 | josephboroski.com Learn how to craft cocktails from the master himself, Joseph Boroski, who teaches from the one hundred-plus mixes in his own recipe book. Spread across a few specially designed training stations, the classes cater to absolute beginners as well as professionals.
THE RINK ICE ARENA CENTRAL WORLD CentralWorld, 999 Ratchadamri Rd | 08 1875 1212 | therink-icearena.com Lace up those blades and channel your inner Johnny Weir at this rink in the middle of Bangkok’s biggest shopping centre.
YOGATIQUE BANGKOK 116/8 Suhumvit Soi 23| 02 662 0172 | yogatiquebangkok.com Strengthen your mind, body, and soul at Yogatique. Classes are divided into three categories: Mild (Mai Phet), Medium Spicy (Phet), and Spicy (Phet Phet), depending on strength and stamina. Friendly, professional bilingual instructors guide all levels of yogis through classes, providing hands-on help when necessary. bangkok101.com