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PUBLISHER’S LETTER
P
lenty of reasons to be jolly this month. Bangkok’s ubiquitous beer gardens are back and as always with the holidays there is a cornucopia of great seasonal dining treats to be had, not least at the inaugural Riverside Dining Experience. This extraordinary initiative involving 25 fine restaurants across 8 top hotels on the banks of the Chao Phraya River gives foodies the chance to indulge in specially designed 3-course set dinner menus featuring a delicious choice of international cuisines for the eminently digestible price of B999 nett per person. With a proportion of the proceeds raised during the 12-21 December event going towards a 2015 river clean-up campaign, you can eat, drink and be merry knowing that you are also doing some good for the city’s iconic waterway. Read more about the Riverside Dining Experience on page 91. Elsewhere in this end-of-year issue we debut the colourful art of illustrator Patcharin ‘Jeed’ Jitviriyanon and sample Formosan fare on a culinary tour of Taiwan. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks is all it
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WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia. Seasonal Greetings and a Happy New Year!
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
DECEM BER 2014 | 7
CONTRIBUTORS
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Matt Wilde
editor-at-large
Joe Cummings associate editor
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
Food and travel writer HOWARD RICHARDSON lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ , the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.
Pawika Jansamakao Craig Sauers editorial coordinator
Leelawut Petkongtong editorial intern
Pataraporn Hemachandra art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Bill Bredesen, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Dave Stamboulis, Keith Mundy, Tom Sturrock, Adam O’Keefe contributing photographers
Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
British-born writer-artist STEVEN PETTIFOR stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Very Thai author PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon
director business development
Willem Deenik circulation
Prajak Manee-In published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2014. All rights reserved.
AVAILABLE AT:
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No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. SD E PE T CE M B E R 2 0 1 4 | 9
CONTENTS 54
20 50
18
CITY PU LSE
A RT & C U LT U R E
SHOPPING
12 metro beat
62 interview: patcharin
110 thomas erber’s le
16 hot plates: red sky
‘jeed’ jitviriyanon
cabinet de curiosités
18 out and about:
68 exhibition highlights
comes to bangkok
bangkok’s true christmas
70 cheat notes
112 unique boutique:
sprit
72 photo feature:
green thai product shop
24 best of bangkok:
thai design gets h.o.t.
62
speakeasies come to the big mango
FOOD & DRIN K
S N A P S H OT S
80 festive meal deals
79 food & drink news 32 tom’s two satang
82 restaurant reviews/
34 very thai
previews: sofitel so, ruen
35 thailand at random
urai, wine connection,
36 joe’s bangkok
barsu, central embassy,
38 bizarre thailand
riverside dining experience
40 temples, historic
92 in the kitchen: jason
buildings and museums
bailey, bee satongun
113 spotlight tailor:
93 eat like nym
rajawongse
T R AV E L
110 82
94 restaurant listings
46 up country now
WELLN ESS
48 hotel review
N IGHTLI FE
116 sanctuary wellness
50 up country escape:
101 nightlife news
and spa at rembrandt
old-school island tripping
102 review: sway
hotel
54 over the border:
104 nightlife listings
118 spa listings
a taste of taiwan
REFERENCE 120 maps 128 my bangkok: m.l. pawinee santisiri
ON THE COVER ‘Santa’, a mixture of collage and illustration by artist Patcharin ‘Jeed’ Jitviriyanon. Turn to p62 for more. 10 | DECEM BER 2014
bangkok101.com
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metro beat
The Comedy of Murders by Howard Richardson
POP & ROCK
Several international artists will perform and present workshops at the 9th International Butoh Festival Thailand 2014 at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 0 2214 6632, bacc.or.th) from December 4-21. The workshops open the festival, from December 4-7. Highlights include Hijikata Style by Takita Takayuki (Japan, Dec 4), Valentin Tszin of PoemaTheatre (Russia, Dec 5) and Salome Nieto of PataSola Dance (Mexico/ Canada, Dec 6). Entry is B1000 each or B5000 for all six workshops. The performances are from December 12-14 and December 19-21, and include Valeria Geremia (Italy), Paul Ibey (Canada), Mikio Tsunekawa (Japan/Chile) and B-Floor Theatre (Thailand). Performance tickets are B600 each or B1500 for all five. There are also exhibitions and installations by Boaz Zippor (Israel), Teerawat Mulvilai (Thailand), Tawit Keitprapai (Thailand), and Stephen Funke (Finland).
Revocation US Thrash and Death Metal band Revocation play at Immortal Bar (6 Soi Bunchoosri, Dindaeng, 08 2082 4942, facebook. com/immortalthaibar) on December 7. The classic line-up of two guitars, bass and drums will feature Jon Rice (Job for a Cowboy), standing in for Phil Dubois-Coyne, who has an injury. Expect strong representation from their sixth album Deathless, released this year. Doors open at 7pm, the show starts at 8.30pm. Tickets are B800, available at several outlets. See the website for details.
THEATRE The Battle of Indrajit, Episode of Nagabas, a traditional Khon performance at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 0 2247 0028) runs until December 5. Part of the traditional epic tales of The Ramakien, it relates the adventures of Indrajit, the son of Tosakan, and the battle of Rama-Ravana. Thai Ticketmajor (0 2262 3456, thaiticketmajor.com) has tickets from B400-B1500. In the play The Maids: The Comedy of Murders, an adaptation of The Maids by Jean Genet, at Thong Lor Art Space (58/14-15 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor) until December 16, two sisters are maids to the lady of the house. When the lady is away they start to act out sado-masochistic rituals, one as the cruel mistress, and one as the maid. But are they just playing? The performance starts at 8pm, in Thai with English subtitles. It doesn’t happen every day, so best to check facebook.com/ Thonglorartspace to see the schedule. Tickets are B550. 12 | DECEM BER 2014
The Search for Signs of Intelligent Life in the Universe A Pico Theatre production of Jane Wagner’s play The Search for Signs of Intelligent Life in the Universe takes the stage at Democrazy Theatre Studio (1034/29-30 Soi Sapankhu, Lumpini, 08 0075 2002, facebook.com/democrazystudio) from December 4-7. The play, which was famously a vehicle for Lily Tomlin’s one woman show, follows Trudy, a bag lady who has had electric shock treatment and believes it has rewired her brain so that she can tune into the rhythms of people around her. The action unfolds as she leads a pair of aliens on a discovery of what it is to be human. The show is performed in English with Thai subtitles, and opens at 7.30pm. Tickets are B500. See pico-theatre.webs. com or facebook.com/picotheatrebangkok for more information. The Bangkok Community Theatre presents the pantomime Cinderella at Creative Industries at M Theatre (2884/2 New Petchaburi Rd, 0 2319 7641) from December 5-7 and 12-14. Performances are a mix of matinee and evening. Check the Bangkok Community Theatre Facebook page for details. Tickets are B850 and B550/children under 13 (matinees only). bangkok101.com
metro beat
CITY PU LSE
ROYAL PAGEANTRY
Trooping of the Colour The Royal Guards, dressed in full regalia, will parade in front of the royal family to pledge allegiance to the monarchy in the Trooping of the Colour at the Royal Plaza, Dusit on December 2. Three days later, on December 5, a cultural festival at Sanam Luang, the royal ceremonial fields opposite the Grand Palace, will celebrate the King’s Birthday, which is also Father’s Day in Thailand.
CLASSICAL
NIGHTLIFE
The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra performs its Concert in the Park every Sunday in Lumpini Park from December 14-February 1. The orchestra, featuring guest vocalists, has 90-minute programmes starting at 5.30pm that encompass tunes from film, stage and Thai and Western classical music. See bangkoksymphony.org for the full performance schedule. Opera Siam stages Mozart’s The Magic Flute conducted by Trisdee na Patalung at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 0 2247 0028) on December 25 and 26, at 8 pm and December 27, at 4pm. The performance is a revival of Somtow Sucharitkul’s Thai-sci-fi version of the opera, first performed in Bangkok in 2006, but now updated with a new design by San Francisco’s Dean Shibuya and costumes by Pasaya. The cast includes Mexican tenor Emilio Pons and German baritone Falko Hönisch, with back-up from the Orpheus Choir. The singing will be in German, the spoken dialogue in Thai and English, with Thai, English and Japanese subtitles. The production will perform next year at the Hawaii Opera Theatre, Honolulu.
LECTURES This month’s National Museum Volunteers lecture is by Ruchi Agarwal, who will talk about Hindu Shrines in Commercial Districts of Bangkok and the rising popularity of Hindu gods in modern Thailand. It’s at the National Museum Auditorium on December 11, from 10am-noon. Admission is B200 and B100 for members. bangkok101.com
Steve Aoki Retox Sessions and Contango team up again to present 808 Festival at BITEC (km1, 88 Bangna-Trad Rd, 0 2749 3939, bitec. co.th) on December 9. The dance music festival will see DJs appear on two stages in two arenas. Headliners in the 808 Arena are Dutch producer Nicky Romero, currently ranked at No 8 in the DJ Mag Top 100 DJs and known for collaboration with Avicii on the UK chart topper ‘I Could Be The One’; electro-house, progressive and big room crossover from Blasterjaxx (13 in the DJ Mag Top 100); Dannic (No 30 in DJ Mag’s Top 100); and Canadian duo DVBBS (20 in the DJ Mag Top 100). In the Retox Arena are Detroit techno innovator Richie Hawtin; German DJ/producer Loco Dice; and bass-heavy, garage-influenced deep house from the UK’s Hot Since 82. There will be support from Bangkok based DJs in both arenas. The action starts at 6pm. Tickets run from B1950 and B2500 VIP from Thai Ticketmajor (0 2262 3456, thaiticketmajor. com), and there’s a 20+ age restriction, so take ID to gain entry. Updates are at facebook.com/808edm. DECEM BER 2014 | 13
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metro beat
ART
Bangkok in Technicolor Manit Sriwanichpoom, probably best known for his Pink Man series of photographs, first exhibited in the late 1990s, has his latest show, Bangkok in Technicolor at his own Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Pan Rd, 0 2234 6700, kathmanduphotobkk. com) until December 27. The photos are touted as a look at the “garish and alien” environment of modern Bangkok, and offer “a sharp and satirical view on Thai society, politics and religion”. The gallery opens Tue-Sun 11am-7pm.
SHOPPING The ThaiCraft Fair offers two chances to grab your Christmas shopping this month. Their collection of handcrafted products from the country’s village artisans is available at Jasmine City Building (2 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 0 2204 5885) from 10am-3pm on December 6, and at Bumrungrad Hospital on December 12-13. There will also be crafting demonstrations. Learn more info at thaicraft.org.
EXHIBITIONS
The NASA: A Human Adventure The NASA: A Human Adventure brings an exhibition featuring historic space craft to the Bangkok Convention Centre (Central Plaza, Ladprao, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd, 0 2541 1234) from December 1 to February 1. Split into four zones, the displays will have 350 items of space technology; including space rockets, satellites, space cars, robots, communication devices and a space bathroom. Among the space craft are Gemini, Apollo and the Space Shuttle. The Ride zone will have a G Force Simulator; a circular screen with 360-degree views and interactive displays about the Sun and planets; and an Activity Club, where visitors can take pictures in space suits while experiencing weightlessness. The Souvenir zone has goodies such as flight jackets and rocket models, while the Space Café serves space cuisine, including Neil Armstrong’s lunch menu. According to TAT Governor Thawatchai Arunyik, the exhibition “says simply everything about the capability of Thailand as the region’s leader in space technology.” Tickets are B500 from Thai Ticketmajor (0 2262 3456, thaiticketmajor.com).
FAIRS
SPORT Former European footballers, including Michael Owen, Clarence Seedhorf and Patrick Kluivert, will line up in The Global Legends Series Bangkok 2014 at Rajamangala Stadium (2088 Ramkhamhaeng Rd, 0 2318 0940-4) at 8pm on December 5. The sides will be divided into Team Cannavaro, led by ex-Italy international Fabio Cannavaro and Team Figo, captained by ex-Portugal international Luis Figo, both of whom also played for Real Madrid. Tickets are B500-B3000 from Thai Ticketmajor (0 2262 3456, thaiticketmajor.com).
FILM The Science Film Festival explores the theme of Future Technologies at several venues around Thailand until December 14. The organisers hope to reach 300,000 visitors for this year’s event, which screens 26 films. The Bangkok venues include TK Park (Central World, 0 2264 5963) and the Thai Film Archive, Salaya (94 Moo 3 Phutthamonthon sai 5, 0 2482 2013, fapot.org). 14 | DECEM BER 2014
Thailand International Motor Expo The pretties will be out in force for the Thailand International Motor Expo, which revs up with the theme ‘Moving Forward Together ASEAN Autos’, at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 0 2504 5050, impact.co.th) until December 10. Also on display will be this year’s innovations in cars, motorbikes, concept vehicles and accessories. The event is on weekdays from noon to 10pm, and at weekends from 11am. Entry is B100. There are more details at autoinfo.co.th/motorexpo. bangkok101.com
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hot plates
Red Sky By Howard Richardson
A
mong the large and growing choice of Bangkok’s al fresco rooftop restaurants Red Sky enjoys one of the best locations. Right in the heart of the downtown shopping district, you get a wonderful bird’s eye view of this fast changing city from a breathtaking perch 55 floors in the air. At this level you’re above pretty much everything in the city. The seating is arranged on a wooden deck, in a hemisphere around the bar. Perspex walls ensure the view is unhindered. The best seats, though, are reserved for drinkers on the next level up, where chairs and loungers hug the perimeter in a full 360 degree circle overlooking the huge drop into the nighttime air. The restaurant recently welcomed a new chef, in Hugo Coudurier, who previously worked for Michelin-starred Guy Savoy in Paris and in Las Vegas, at Caesar’s Palace. But Red Sky retains its billing as ‘chic urban bistro’, which translates as French classics, some with tweaks, prepared with top grade produce. There’s a fine choice of seafood, including Oscietre Caviar (B3955++/30 grams) with a shot of frozen Absolut vodka, and good sharing options in Seafood On Ice (B5555++), including salmon caviar, lobster, oysters and king crab, among others; and the Red Sky Surf and Turf Tower sags with Wagyu rib eye, Alaskan king crab and US scallops (B5555++). A good starter is Butter Roasted Nova Scotia Lobster Vol au Vent (B895++), in which the pretty pink lobster meat topped with salad garnish rises from light open pastry sitting in a pool of lobster bisque foam. We followed with Wagyu Beef Tenderloin Rossini (B2155++), made with charcoal grilled US beef, foie gras, truffle, and the sweet earthy elements of wild mushrooms and Madeira sauce. They claim 300 wine labels, which is long enough to include bottles from Holland, Uruguay and Brazil. There are 17 by the glass, including champagnes and desserts (B390-B490++), plus two “great wines”, in this case Joseph Drouhin Chablis (B600++) and Brio Cantenac Brown (B680++). Bottles start at B900++, and you can pick up a ’98 Chateau Margaux for B51600++. Cocktails start at B390++ and rise to B1350++ if you want champagne in them, and there a raft of heavy hitting spirits that runs up to Remy Martin Louis XIII at B5500++. Desserts also cover traditional French bistro fare such as Profiteroles with Warm Chocolate Sauce (B355++), Wild Strawberry Gâteau (B295++) and Valrhona Chocolate Fondant (B395++). A seasonal section to the menu changes every month, based on what produce is available in France. Red Sky is impressive for first dates, proposals or business and it’s just a short walk from the Sky Train station if that’s your preferred transport. Sit outside for the best views – a jazz trio plays out there Monday to Saturday – but there’s also more dining space inside, which is handy when it rains. And it’s a great place to linger over post dinner drinks. Until 1am if you’re in the mood.
RED SKY
[MAP 4/3F]
Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama I Rd | 0 2100 6255 centarahotelsresorts.com/redsky | Daily 6pm-11pm (bar until 1am)
16 | DECEM BER 2014
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J U N E 2014 | 17
ASSUMPTION CATHEDRAL
out & about
CITY PU LSE
Bangkok’s True Christmas Spirit Looking to escape the commercial craze of Yuletide? Instead of strolling around the city’s shopping malls, why not take in a more spiritual scene this Christmas with a visit to one of Bangkok’s many historic churches, says
G
iant Christmas trees in front of shopping malls, tinsel and strings of fairy lights everywhere, the sound of Christmas carols and seasonal jingles emanating from many stores… in a country where only 1% of the population considers themselves Christian, Christmas here is a pretty big deal and just as ‘in your face’ as it other parts of the world. But the real spirit of Christmas can also be found in Bangkok, if you look for it. The city has at least three dozen churches recalling the colourful story of the Kingdom and Christianity, and many of these places of worship have great historical value. They tell of the long and sometimes complicated cohabitation between Thais and the first missionaries to reach the shores of Siam over 450 years ago. The Christian community in Thailand was established back in the middle of the 16th century with the arrival of
Chanthaburi Cathedral bangkok101.com
LUC CITRINOT
European merchants. Christian missionaries probably came with the first ships sent by Portugal to establish trade relations with Siam in 1516. The first record of such arrivals pertain to two Dominicans, Friar Jeronimo da Cruz and Friar Sebastiao da Canto, who settled at the Siamese court in Ayutthaya in 1567. They were rapidly followed by Jesuits and Franciscan missionaries. With the decline of Portuguese influence during the 17th and 18th centuries, the spread of the Catholic faith turned increasingly French, particularly under the rule of King Narai. It was he who allowed the Mission of Siam to establish activities and throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, missionaries not only founded churches but also schools, seminaries, convents and hospitals. The oldest church in the greater Bangkok area is the Church of the Immaculate Conception at Samsen. It dates back to the late 1600s and remains a lively meeting
Assumption Cathedral DECEM BER 2014 | 19
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out & about
Samut Songkram Ratchaburi Diocese Cathedral place for many Vietnamese Christians descended from settlers who arrived in Siam 200 years ago. Following the destruction of Ayutthaya by Burmese troops, the capital moved to Thonburi where Kudi Jeen – a community of Siamese, Portuguese and Chinese origins – settled around the newly built Santa Cruz Church. In 1835 around 1,500 Annamite Christians fleeing persecution also settled in the Samsen area, where another recently established church, St Francis Xavier, became a centre for the Catholic faith in the capital. With an eye to becoming westernized so as to compete with surrounding colonial territories, Siamese rulers, particularly King Rama V and King Rama VI, called on European architects to develop Bangkok. Hence dozens of Italian architects and artists settled here between 1880 and 1920, expanding and rebuilding many of the existing churches. They generally chose the neo-Gothic style, a movement very much in favour at the end of the 19th century. Santa Cruz Church in Thonburi, Holy Rosary Church in Talad Noi district, and Chanthaburi Cathedral – considered Thailand’s most impressive Christian church – were all rebuilt in a romanticized Gothic revival style with vaulted arches and stained glass windows. Italian architects Mario Tamagno and Annibale Rigotti were behind the 1916 reconstruction of Santa Cruz Church. Although there are no records on the architect of Kalawar Church, it is likely to have been the work of Mario Tamagno (who also designed the nearby Siam Commercial Bank headquarters in Talad Noi). It is possibly the most exquisite church in Bangkok with its colourful stained glass and delicate wood carving. It also hosts one of the holiest relics of the Catholic community in Thailand; a wooden statue of Jesus on the Cross, saved by the Portuguese when they left Ayutthaya following the capital’s sacking by the Burmese. The poignant image of Jesus is 20 | DECEM BER 2014
only shown to the public once a year during a procession. Another spectacular church is Assumption Cathedral, the city’s largest Catholic institution. Built originally in 1821 by a French priest, it was reconstructed in 1909, emulating the pattern of Ho Chi Minh City Cathedral with its red brick walls. While the external facade is a curious mix of Gothic and Classical styles, the interior follows the neo-Roman school with golden arches and painted ceilings and frescoes which probably took their inspiration from late 19th century French basilicas such as the Montmartre SacréCoeur Church and Marseille’s Notre Dame de la Garde. Different again is Christ Church on the corner of Soi Convent and Sathorn. This American church for Protestants also serves the Anglican community in Thailand. Built in the Victorian Gothic style, the sober decoration – dark wooden panels and plain white walls – exudes a tranquillity that contrasts sharply with the hustle and bustle of nearby Silom and Sathorn. Some of the country’s most spectacular churches involve a drive out of Bangkok. One of the finest upcountry is St Joseph in Ayutthaya, the masterwork of the AustrianItalian architect Joachim Grassi who gave a baroque twist to the structure. Situated along the canal surrounding Ayutthaya old town, the structure seems to arise from nothing, the bell tower looming over the surrounding paddy fields. At the border of Samut Songkram and Ratchaburi provinces, there are two beautiful churches in the Gothic revival style built by French missionary Father Paulo Salmon to serve a large Indo-Chinese community. But the jewel of the crown is Chanthaburi Cathedral. Built four years after the French returned Chanthaburi to Siam following 12 years of occupation, the superb structure pays homage to the French Gothic style. Colourful stained glass windows, ornate statues and a Gothic altar and pulpit give this church a sense of grandeur that creates the perfect atmosphere for a traditional Christmas mass. bangkok101.com
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out & about
IN BANGKOK
UPCOUNTRY
IMMACULATE CONCEPTION CHURCH Expelled from Ayutthaya in the late 17th century, a Portuguese community was granted by King Narai the right to settle near to the Chao Phraya River. In 1673, they built the first Immaculate Conception Church, which became Bangkok’s oldest Catholic church. It was reconstructed in simple gothic style in 1834 by French priest Msgr. Jean-Baptiste Pallegoix and was further expanded around 1847.
CHANTHABURI CATHEDRAL OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION Founded by French missionaries in the early 18th century to cater to a growing Vietnamese Christian community who settle in the area to escape persecution in Southern Vietnam. The original small wooden church was replaced during the time of the French occupation. The construction of the current edifice started in 1905 and was completed in 1909, four years after France returned the province to Siam. This is Thailand’s largest Catholic church. During renovations in 2008, the stain glass windows were repaired in Eastern France.
HOLY ROSARY CHURCH (KALAWAR CHURCH) Portuguese residents from Kudi Chin in Thonburi settled on the Bangkok side of the Chao Phraya River in 1786. The area became known as Calvario (Kalawar in Thai). A year later, King Rama I granted land for the construction of a church. The current structure is in pure neo-Gothic style and was built in 1898, replacing the original structure. ASSUMPTION CATHEDRAL Bangkok’s grandest church was founded in 1809. It was inspired by French missionary Father Pascal, designed by a French architect and completed in 1821 with red bricks imported from France and Italy. The current building is a reconstruction from 1909. While its exterior is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles, the interior is clearly based on a re-interpreted version of the Romanesque style. CHRIST CHURCH Opened in 1905 by American missionaries for a Protestant congregation, the neo-Gothic church also hosts Anglican worshippers. The stained glass windows were manufactured in Glasgow in typical Art Nouveau style. In February 1972 Queen Elizabeth II, accompanied by the Duke of Edinburgh and Princess Anne, attended a religious service in the church. SANTA CRUZ CHURCH THONBURI The third reconstruction of a wooden church originally erected in 1770 for the Portuguese community. Today’s church was built in 1916 in a mostly neo-Baroque style with Gothic inspired interiors. The church is only opened on request. FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, SAMRAY THONBURI This charming small church was constructed in 1910 by American missionaries who acquired the plot of land in Samray district in Thonburi back in 1857. A separate belfry was added in 1912. Inside the structure is relatively simple, with plain wood panels on the walls. 22 | DECEM BER 2014
BANG NOK KHWAEK RATCHABURI DIOCESE CATHEDRAL The Nativity of Our Lady Cathedral is the main religious monument of Ratchaburi Diocese despite the fact that it is actually located in neighbouring Samut Songkram. The first Christian communities arrived here from China around 1840 and built a wooden church in 1847. This was later replaced by a larger neo-Gothic church conceived by French missionary Father Paulo Salmon. The church was elevated to cathedral status when the Ratchaburi diocese was created in 1965. WAT PLENG SACRED HEART CHURCH RATCHABURI Located close to Wat Pleng canal in the Khu Bua district, this church is only 10 minutes drive from Bang Nok Khwaek Cathedral. It was also built by Father Paulo Salmon and features a blend of Gothic and Thai-Chinese styles, particularly the main façade which has similarities to Thai temples. ST JOSEPH CHURCH AYUTTHAYA St Joseph’s church was destroyed in 1767 but rebuilt in 1831 by French Priest Jean Baptiste Pallegoix and further expanded in neo-Roman style by Italian Joachim Grassi during the reign of King Rama V.
CHRISTMAS MASS Assumption Cathedral, Rosary (Kalawar) Church and Christ Church, as well as another dozen modern churches around Bangkok, will host a mass on Christmas Eve. Please visit stjohn.ac.th/Department/info/ch_schedule.html or christchurchbangkok.org for more information
bangkok101.com
The Friese-Greene Club
Speakeasies Come to the Big Mango BY MICHAEL MOORE
D
uring the 1920’s and early 1930s, the “sale, production, importation, and transportation of alcoholic beverages” was prohibited in the United States. Human nature being what it is, this resulted in the proliferation of ‘speakeasies’ – anonymous and illicit drinking spots where customers entered after whispering the correct password to the heavily armed guy behind the door. “Prohibition” as it was called in the United States was a dismal failure. Illegal distilleries proliferated and everyone seemed to be making beer and wine in their basement. 24 | DECEM BER 2014
Gangsters and organised crime became commonplace and guys like Al Capone, Frank Costello, Lucky Luciano and their Mafia cohorts controlled crime and vast segments of American cities. On the other side of the fence, crime fighters like J. Edgar Hoover and Eliot Ness became household words and heroes to those interested in combating the evils of booze and organised crime. In retrospect all of this seems fascinating and glamorous. Never ones to pass up a chance to create something new and different, several Bangkok entrepreneurs have established drinking establishments bangkok101.com
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Sugar Ray
The Friese-Greene Club reminiscent of the speakeasies of the past. Fortunately, you won’t have to worry about a raid from the FBI, a visit by the likes of Machine Gun Kelly or the dangers of drinking a home-made brew in tawdry surroundings. On the contrary, the atmosphere will be elegant and exclusive and the booze and drinks the finest money can buy. The bar in Bangkok that feels most like a speakeasy from the 1920s has got to be J. Boroski off Soi Thonglor. Even Eliot Ness, the FBI agent famed for busting up speakeasies all those years ago, would have trouble finding this place – and that’s the way the owner likes it. There is no sign at the entrance, the facade is plain black and illumination is provided by a single low-voltage light bulb. Inside is a dramatic dimly lit interior designed by Bangkok’s impresario of bar and restaurant design Ashley Sutton. Why the secrecy? Proprietor and noted mixologist Joseph Boroski puts it this way. “I want it to be difficult to find. If people take the trouble to find it, they really want to come. I don’t want it to be a place filled with tourists or casual passers-by.” But filled it is. In spite of its anonymity, J. Boroski is jammed with many of Bangkok’s beautiful people, all enjoying the opportunity to drink in an exclusive venue that others don’t know about. The popularity, however, doesn’t come only from the intriguing speakeasy atmosphere. Boroski’s skill is legendary and he is responsible for cocktail menus at several of the city’s leading hotels and bars. There is no drinks list. Drinks are created to reflect a customer’s specifications or according to the whims of the person making them; hence tipples at J. Boroski aren’t cheap, but bangkok101.com
Sugar Ray their unique character and the bar’s remarkable ambiance make them worth the tariff. This is definitely a place for the adventurous. If J. Boroski is difficult to find, Sugar Ray borders on the impossible. The proprietor doesn’t attempt to keep the location a secret, he’s just not into signs and advertising. To find it try the following: Go to Ekkamai Soi 21, proceed about 100 metres down the soi until you come to Moose, a popular watering hole; across the road is a small subsoi; proceed about 50 metres down the sub-soi until you come to a construction site; on second floor in the building being remodelled you will find Sugar Ray. And remember if all else fails, you can ask someone in the neighbourhood; everyone seems to know where it is – probably because they are being constantly asked. At the present time, Sugar Ray possesses a couple of small dimly lit rooms. The main room has wooden tables, some leather sofas, an area for mixing drinks and a table for a DJ who plays some classy jazz. Many patrons like to spend time in the second room where there is simply a large wooden table at which you can sit and watch as the bartender mixes your drinks. Classic cocktails created with the best ingredients available are Sugar Ray’s specialty. A popular item is the Old Fashion (B350), created with bourbon, orange syrup, soda and bitters and served with an ice-ball, lemon twist and a house-made infused cherry. There is, of course, a lot more, but you’ll have to discover that yourself. One of the most enticing bars in Bangkok is U.N.C.L.E. (United Nations of Cocktail Lovers Everywhere), a posh DECEM BER 2014 | 25
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best of bangkok
J. Boroski Mixology
little hideaway that exudes class. Located above Lady Brett, a popular tavern on Sathorn 12, it is entered by proceeding down a narrow passageway on the side of the tavern. At the end of the passageway, you come to a small door; enter (you’ll have to duck) and climb the dimly lit stairs. After a couple of flights, you will see a doorway covered with a piece of black velvet. Push it aside and voila, you’ll find yourself in U.N.C.L.E. U.N.C.L.E. Is operated by a trio of Swedes with loads of experience in the food and beverage industry. Bartender Chris is a master of his trade. In addition to creating authentic classics, he serves a variety of unique drinks and will be happy to create something based on a customer’s specifications. To top things off, drinks are served in Schott Zwiesel Hommage range glassware. If you are feeling peckish, U.N.C.L.E. serves food from the menu downstairs at Lady Brett and also has a few selections of its own. Especially tasty are the Moules Frites (B790), 800g of green-lip mussels served with fries and a choice of sauces. If you are into quality cinema, our final hideaway has got to be on your hit list. The Friese-Greene Club is a member’s only club where guests are always welcome. It is located on the small sub-soi immediately after what used to be the Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 22. Just walk down the soi until you come to the Usman Restaurant. Three doors later you will find the anonymous entrance to Friese-Greene; ring the bell and wait for someone to let you in. Inside you will discover a haven created by Paul Spurrier, a film director and passionate lover of the cinema. There are two floors to the club. On the ground floor there is a bar with a very reasonably priced selection of drinks: wine, for example averages around B1000 per bottle, a shot of Johnnie Walker Black is B105 and a bottle of Leo costs B90. 26 | DECEM BER 2014
U.N.C.L.E.
The atmosphere is very ‘club like’ and there is a goodly selection of film books and reference materials like the Hollywood Reporter, Screen International and American Cinematographer. The walls are filled with photos and posters connected with the cinema and there is a selection of memorabilia from Paul’s collection. But what really makes this place special is found on the second floor. Here there is a tiny cinema with 11 airline type seats and state-of-the-art projection equipment that shows a wide-ranging selection of classic and cult films. Showings are free of charge to members and guests. Reservations and precisely what is being shown can be found on Friese-Greene’s website or on the mobile app that can be downloaded from the website. Examples of what have been shown in the past include All the President’s Men, Casablanca, A Clockwork Orange, Freaks and Whatever Happened to Baby Jane. For a list of future showings check out the website. ____________________________________________
J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY Near Soi Thonglor | facebook.com/pages/Jboroski-Mixology Open every evening if you can find it
SUGAR RAY Ekkamai Soi 21 | 08 1750 8385 | facebook.com/pages/SugarRay-Youve-Just-Been-Poisoned | Open Wed, Fri-Sat 8pm-2am
U.N.C.L.E. Sathorn Soi 12, 300m from Sathorn Road | facebook.com/ pages/UNCLE/ | Open every evening except Monday
THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB Sukhumvit 22, in the sub-soi immediately after the (now closed) Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel | fgc.in.th | Open TuesSun 6pm-11pm bangkok101.com
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making merit
Pitching
n for Pink
Pink ribbons, pink jerseys, and even pink chef’s hats. When September ends, out comes the colour pink, the international symbol of breast cancer awareness. This has been the case for nearly three decades, when October was officially named Breast Cancer Awareness Month.
T
he breast cancer awareness movement has blossomed over the years. Nowadays, there is an inspiring diversity of fundraisers united in support of finding a cure. These aren’t run-of-the-mill galas either, but rather marathons, concerts and culinary events like EATDRINK-PINK. A coordinated effort to raise money for The Queen Sirikit Centre for Breast Cancer, EAT-DRINK-PINK brought together over 30 of Bangkok’s top restaurants, bakeries and beverage providers on October 27 at the Peninsula Bangkok. It was a steamy Monday night on the banks of the Chao Phraya. Lightning tattooed the skies. Heavy winds threatened to blow decorations and tableware into the next province. But the looming storm didn’t stop hundreds of guests from coming out and getting involved in the cause. The riverside terrace at the Peninsula was festooned in pink and filled to capacity. Guests roved between 28 | DECEM BER 2014
tables, sampling a variety of dishes and chatting with restaurateurs while a jazz band played on stage. There was craft beer from Beervana and Hopsession, creative cocktails from Whisgars and luxurious wine from La Bottega di Luca. Icons of the fine dining scene such as Gaggan, Eat Me, Appia, the Blue Elephant, Ruen Urai, Little Beast, Sensi, and Opposite Mess Hall, put their distinctive spin on tapas-style dining. Artisanal patisseries, including Baked in Bangkok, served decadent macaroons and chocolate brownies for dessert. As delicious as the food and drinks were – and as much fun as guests had before the clouds broke – EAT-DRINKPINK had a much more significant reason for being. The truth is that Breast Cancer Awareness month never ends. Not for those who have been diagnosed with or have survived breast cancer. They have to stay aware each day. That makes sharing information, keeping breast cancer on the tips of tongues, so important to finding a cure. bangkok101.com
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Photos by Matt Burns
making merit
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making merit
Special thanks go to the following companies who generously donated their time and resources to EAT-DRINK-PINK: Eat Me, Blue Elephant, Ruen Urai, Gaggan, Opposite Mess Hall, Little Beast, Appia, Quince Eatery & Bar, Opus, Sensi, El Osito, The Aston Gastro Bar, Le Du, Mei Jiang, The Peninsula Boutique, MahaNaga, Smith, Baked in Bangkok, Sfree, Enoteca, Sloanes & Gastro 1/6, La Bottega di Luca, ThaiBev, Hopsession, ItalAsia, Beervana, FIN, G4 & MugMug, and Whisgars.
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bangkok101.com
making merit
CITY PU LSE
Cuisine for a Cause Chef Nooror at the Blue Elephant has long been instrumental in Thailand’s breast cancer awareness movement. Each October for the past three years she has offered special menus that promote women’s health – with dishes comprising handpicked ingredients known to have anti-cancer properties – and donated a portion of the proceeds to the Queen Sirikit Centre for Cancer. “Beauty comes from the inside and works its way to the outside,” she says. “In many ways, you are what you eat.” This year, Chef Nooror created a 10-course menu featuring ancient Thai recipes influenced by international culinary techniques. The dishes included healthy local and organic ingredients procured from Surakij Farm in Samut Prakarn. Spicy prawns topped with almonds and a homemade chilli paste, a Thai pumpkin soup adapted from her mother’s recipe, an incredible pink sorbet made from the rare Carunda fruit – as with all food at the Blue Elephant, the flavours in each dish were perfectly balanced, resulting in an extraordinary end
bangkok101.com
product. Most importantly, Chef Nooror’s creations went to a great cause. “My mum taught me to give as much as I can to others,” she says. “I feel very grateful to be helping women get healthy and be happy.”
DECEM BER 2014 | 31
THAILAND’S VERSION OF A WHITE CHRISTMAS?
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bangkok101.com
insight
S N A P S H OT S
Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON HOLIDAYS
Photograph by Manit Sriwanichpoom
I
t is well known that Thais love to have fun. Our sanuk (joie de vivre) mentality isn’t reserved just for daily life but extends particularly to our enjoyment of holidays. And, boy, do we have a lot of those in Thailand! This is one of the few countries in the world with more than 20 public holidays per year. We have even embraced the festivities of other cultures with a passion. Each year most Thais celebrate three New Years: the International New Year (1st January), the Chinese New Year (the day after the first new moon of the lunar calendar, sometime in January or early February), and Songkran, the traditional Thai New Year (13th-15th April). Excessive? Certainly not. We have our reasons. Since we use the Gregorian calendar, the beginning of the year is a legitimate celebration. Many Sino-Thais across the country shut up shop during the Chinese New Year and many regional and international companies often declare it a holiday too. Songkran used to be based on the old solar calendar and its dates were not fixed, but since the mid-20th century, the government has proclaimed the mid-April holiday dates as we know them today. So if you are not able to keep your New Year’s resolution after 1st January, you now have two more chances to do so! Since most Thais are Buddhist, they celebrate the four major Buddhist holidays: Makha Bucha Day, Visakha Bucha Day, Asalaha Bucha Day (which fall on the full moon day in March, May, and July respectively), and Khao Pansa (the beginning of Lent, right after Aslaha Bucha Day). These holidays mark the important passages in the life of the Lord Buddha. Visakha Bucha is the most significant because it represents the day on which the Lord Buddha was born, achieved enlightenment, and passed on. On these days devout Buddhists visit the temple and circumambulate the Ubosot (the Main Hall) to pay homage to the Lord Buddha and his teachings. Buddhist Lent has become the Festival of Hae Thien Pansa (the parade of candles) with gigantic sculptures made from candle wax harking back to a time when electricity was unavailable and monks had to read by candle light. After the Buddhist Lent, the Thod Ghatin Festival takes bangkok101.com
place for a month. This is the time to donate new robes to the monks and almost every November the Royal Barge Procession for the Royal Ghatin Ceremony has been a sight to behold. The flotilla of golden barges gleam as they glide along the Chao Phraya River and arrive at Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn). If one misses Thod Ghatin, one can conduct a Thod Paa Bpaa ceremony at any time during the year to donate new robes to monks or benefits to the temple. We live in a religiously tolerant society here, which is why in the recent past some Thais have chosen to embrace other faiths and adopt their religious holidays. Of course, there are also more prosaic reasons for such fluidity – as a youngster, I attended a Catholic school and later worked for international firms, which meant I got to enjoy extra days off at Christmas and Easter! Like Christmas, St. Valentine’s Day has become a big deal here for those seeking romance, and it is just as consumer-driven. While Valentine roses, chocolates and candle-lit dinners might be a boon to love, they are most certainly a boost to commercial interests. The majority of traditional Thai festivals are related to our agrarian roots. The Royal Ploughing Ceremony, Boon Bung Fai (the rainy season rocket festival), and the Hae Nang Maew Festival are used to date the times for planting new rice crops and praying for water. Nowadays most of these festivals are no longer public holidays but they are still celebrated with verve. We revel in the pomp and pageantry of the Royal Ploughing Ceremony and after the predictions for the annual rice crop by the Brahmins and the sacred oxen have been given, farmers rush in to pick up the (blessed and auspicious) rice grains scattered during the rites to replant on their land. In addition to the beauty of festivals such as Loy Krathong, we are also adept at having fun based on more ghoulish holidays. Hence the masks and costumes fashioned for the Phee Dta Khone Festival, a shamanistic celebration akin to Halloween. No matter if it is an adopted festival that falls on a working day or a traditional holiday that allows for time off, you can be certain that we will ensure a good time is had by all. DECEM BER 2014 | 33
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very thai
blind bands
Photo: Philip Cornwel-Smith
BRINGING JOY TO THE STREETS
B
umper-to-bumper vehicles aren’t the only kind of Thai street jam. In an impromptu musical jam, trios play sidewalks, 10-piece bands gig by the roadside, lone a cappella minstrels serenade stalls. Pavement players may be a common sight across the world, but in Thailand there’s a difference: most of the wanipok (buskers) cannot see. Blind musicians cover every age, region and genre, from folk to rock to ballad. Some sightless soloists rove, waving a cane or gripping a sighted assistant. Head swaying like Stevie Wonder, the singer phases poignantly in and out of microphone range.
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
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Static groups make the best music, gleaning donations into a large steel box. Guitars, chime bells, pipes and drums turn the sidewalk into a stage, typically under a footbridge. Wired to amps and large speakers, the Electone synthesiser perches on plastic stools. At the simpler end, you might encounter faint melodies emanating from an elderly couple folded on to a tiny patch of paving. Granny warbles over granddad’s plaintive scrapings on the pin, a kind of three-stringed mandolin. They’re from the north. Migrants from the northeast are more likely to wheeze elegaically through the region’s trademark bamboo harmonica, the khaen, to lyrics in Lao of rural toil.
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
bangkok101.com
thailand at random
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THE CHILI: A GIFT FROM GOD .....
I
ntroduced to Thailand in the 16th century by Portuguese missionaries, chilies, or prik as they are called in Thai, are used to add flavor and spice to Thai cuisine. One of the most popular kinds of Thai chili, prik khi nu (literally “mouse dropping chili”) is among the spiciest, despite its relatively small size. Prik khi nu, besides packing a fiery
kick, rewards eaters with high levels of vitamin C. Thai chilies are among the hottest in the world, second only to Latin America’s scorching habanero peppers. Thais love to eat chilies for the taste, but they also consume them as a remedy for nasal congestion, blood clots and toothache as well as to reduce cholesterol.
An illustrated collection of Thailand trivia, Thailand at Random is filled with anecdotes, statistics, quotes, idioms, cultural explanations, historical asides, facts, folklore and other unusual and useful tidbits. This veritable treasure trove of information on Thailand is arranged, as the title suggests, randomly, so that readers will come to expect the unexpected on each and every page. Designed in a charmingly classic style, and peppered with original illustrations, Thailand at Random is a quirky and irresistible celebration of everything you didn’t know you wanted to know about this diverse and captivating country.
GOING
BANANAS
> Thailand at Random EDM Books | editors Grissarin Chungsiriwat and Nicholas Grossman | B650
still life in moving vehicles
L
ately, I’ve been noticing a lot of bananas setting in back windows and on dashboards in Bangkok taxis. One driver told me that they are an offering to the gods. Another cabbie explained how they attract more customers and compared his passengers to monkeys. Then one taxi driver told me that they were ripening in the sun and that he couldn’t wait to eat one. And finally another cabbie informed me that they were there to provide protection. As he recklessly swerved in and out of traffic, I prayed that his bananas were working. Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, still life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-offbook, Thai Taxi Talisman, is available at bookstores around town for B995.
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Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
SIX FATHOMS DEEP
A UNIQUE TATTOO STUDIO ADDS MORE COLOUR TO ALREADY-EXOTIC PAN ROAD
W
alking into Six Fathoms Deep for the first time, as a New Orleans native I feel strangely at home among the faux-altars stacked with skulls and dripping candles. Lurid cartoon art, 1980s-vintage toy action figures, and all-original tattoo flash fill in the rest of the four walls enclosing Six Fathoms Deep’s cosy main workspace. Seated behind a table piled with yet more flash is Nick Mudskipper, founder of Bangkok’s most ‘inter’ tatt studio, which is billed on its Facebook page as ‘Tattoo Studio, Procurers of Interesting Toys, Art and Vintage Goods’. A Bangkok Knights video doc called it ‘Captain Nemo meets He-Man meets Fangoria on acid.’ 36 | DECEM BER 2014
The burly young South African, who displays a substantial array of black ink on his bare arms and legs, was raised in Cape Town, where his mother had her own art studio and his uncle drew cartoons for a living. Nick’s early exposure to drawing led him to a job in the film industry as a storyboard artist, a trade he abandoned six years ago to take up tattooing. “All my favourite rockstars had loads of ink,” he says. “I was also into graffiti and other street art, and eventually started learning how to tattoo from local artists.” Nick has been in Bangkok four and a half years, and opened Six Fathoms Deep two years ago. Asked how he chose Pan Road as a location, he says “I was living in Sathon, and looking for a place that was bangkok101.com
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between BTS stations. A friend’s wife used to go to the Indian temple on this road all the time, so we strolled along one day to see what it was like. “The scene had a really good feel, busy in the daytime but quiet at night. The Kathmandu Photo Gallery made it kind of a scene, and since we’ve arrived here it seems like it’s getting trendier, with a couple of backpacker hostels and interesting new restaurants like the vegan Bonita Cafe and Social Kitchen moving in.” Nick and his three artist partners see a steady clientele of foreigners and Thais. “We’re not a street shop, where people pass by and get inked on a whim. We’re more of a destination, a place people hear about or read about and then seek out. “As our name gets around, we’ve started hosting artists who stop over in Bangkok and spend time with us, tattoo heroes like Simon Erl, Cokney, Adam Vu and my homie David Chaston. Sometimes guys like this post online that they’re coming to Bangkok, so I’ll send a message inviting them to stop by. With photos of major artists giving us a thumbs-up, we’re seen as legit, and people start looking for us.” Nick says there’s also a lot of crossover between tattoo tourism and the international graffiti scene in Bangkok. “We might do fewer tatts per week than a street shop, but we tend to do larger designs. Most tattooers in this city are copying designs from other artists, while here we custom-design our own. Most of Nick’s clients are foreigners, he says. “I do jiu jitsu and box at Fighting Spirit Gym [nearby on bangkok101.com
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Silom Rd], and a lot of those guys want to get tattooed. We also get local hipster kids, and people who want a tattoo as a souvenir of their time in Bangkok.” Speaking of his two foreign partners, Nick says “I ink mostly traditional-style tattoos, while Big Matt Adams does a lot of portraits and realist stuff, and David handles Japanese and traditional.” The fourth and possibly most locally well-known partner is Miss Ink, a young Thai woman who has been with Six Fathoms Deep for a year. “When I first met her, she wasn’t tattooing here yet but I could see she had her own niche style,” says Nick. “So I took her on and she has bloomed into an awesome tattoo artist.” Also known by her Thai nickname Pla, the striking 28-year-old artist’s designs favour the depiction of powerful, sexy women and Gothic florals. She cites Mexican artist Frida Kahlo as a major influence. “Each of us has a different following,” says Nick, “and we see a lot of Thai clients who like to collect work by Miss Ink. Between the four of us, you can get pretty much any type of tattoo you want, plus we have at least one guest artist a month.” Six Fathoms Deep usually charges B3000 per hour, with an average medium-size design taking an hour or an hour and a half. For larger, more involved work, clients may negotiate a per-design fee. “What our best clients understand is that you’re not just paying for a tattoo,” says Nick. “You’re paying for an experience.” DECEM BER 2014 | 37
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Bizarre
Thailand
A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.
TSUNAMI
The Asian tsunami struck on December 26, 2004, causing some 250,000 deaths in a half dozen countries, at least 6,000 of them in southern Thailand, and triggering earthquakes as far away as Alaska. For the 10th anniversary commemoration, Jim Algie presents an extract from the 100-page novella, “Tsunami,” in his short-fiction collection The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand.
Y
ves looked up from his paperback to see that the tide had gone out by at least fifty meters. That was strange. The last time he’d checked the bay was filled with swimmers scissoring through a sea the color of melted-down sapphires and waders kneeing through foamy waves that fizzed along the sand to scuttle hermit crabs and leave shells in their wake. Now tourists were walking around on the seabed and locals, protected from the sun by trousers and longsleeved shirts, were picking up fish flopping around in the muck and stuffing them into bags and pockets. The silence was also odd. A short while ago the air had sparkled with birdsong. Along the shoreline he’d seen 38 | DECEM BER 2014
herons and kingfishers using their beaks as spears and spades. Now it was quiet and the birds had flown. Where were his wife and Stefan? He scanned the seabed and ocean. He looked over each shoulder at the hundreds of sunbathers laying on towels or deck chairs. Many of them had also noticed the sea receding and heard the silence that was like a held breath. Yves got to his feet and put on his money belt. Somebody shouted. He looked towards the shore. All the people in the bay were running towards him. Squinting into the sunlight, far out to sea he saw a gigantic wave approaching. Yves ran towards the shore to find his wife and oldest friend as tourists clambered out of the muddy bay and bangkok101.com
highlight ran past him, shouting warnings in a dozen different languages. The bay was almost empty now and he couldn’t see Zara or Stefan anywhere. They must be in one of the beachfront restaurants having a coffee or fruit shake. He put his hand over his eyes to cut the glare. This was no ordinary wave. It was the size of a waterfall, white as lightning and loud as spring thunder. Yves ran towards the line of resorts and restaurants, his sandals slapping against his heels. He would be condemned to remember this moment for the rest of his life and feel the guilt nibble at his conscience; the moment he abandoned his wife, and Stephan, and his reason, in favor of a blind terror and survival instinct that overrode everything else. On his day off from bartending at a five-star resort, Yai would sit on the beach watching all the white women sunbathing and walking around in their bikinis. In his eyes, their semi-nudity was both heroic and blasphemous, as they openly flouted all the rules and taboos of Thai society. Even watching them lying on their beach towels, nipples upturned to the sun, or staring at their hips in the tiniest of thongs bisecting their buttocks as they sashayed across the sand, suggested a degree of freedom that was intoxicating to behold. If one only had the courage to be that brave and open to the elements and all that life offered, what would not be possible? He had often heard tourists, especially the American Marines on Cobra Gold, talk about freedom, but this was the only proof he’d ever seen that there was such a thing. The statuesque blondes from Scandinavia, California and Australia’s Gold Coast were his favorites. They had the sea in their eyes, the waves in their hips, and their hair looked like it had been woven from sunbeams. On the beach, they looked so natural and at home that they had probably been leopard sharks and manta rays in a previous life. At the bar, during his nightly shift, his old friend Yves pestered him. “Stop obsessing over these blondes and go and talk to one.” “They not interesting in me. They want only rich, goodlooking guys.” “Well, they certainly don’t want men with no selfconfidence or pride. So I guess you’ll just have settle for porn movies about Swedish air hostesses.” “Why I want look some guy with cock same same baseball bat fucking some girl like he’s doing pushups in the gym? Nothing sexy in porno movie. I’m not sure if they want to make love or lose calories. Not my style.” “Yes, some men go to an art gallery or a church in search of beauty and transcendence, or they look to politics and human rights for freedom and higher ideals, but Yai goes to the beach and leers at blondes in bikinis.” Yves made fun of him in such a playfully Thai way, constantly grinning in between clauses, that he could not take offense. But the former snake-handler’s days off on the beach were also a torment, for he could no longer walk around in nothing but beach shorts and a saucy grin like these lucky white guys did. His arms, chest and legs had been scarred by so many snakebites that he had to cover up bangkok101.com
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as much as possible. And he had to wear a baseball cap too, because his skin was already beer-bottle brown. The sunglasses allowed him to peek in privacy. After an hour or two it was like window-shopping in a mall where he could not afford to buy anything—more torture than pleasure. As Yai came out of the bathroom in the resort, parting a curtain of seashells hanging in strings for a doorway, he heard screams coming from the beach. Out on the sand it was pandemonium. Some tourists ran towards the main road, while others stood there pointing out to sea at this massive wave coming in. An old Muslim vendor carrying shoulder poles strung with inflatable cartoon animals scurried past, yelling something in the Southern Thai dialect that Yai could only halfway make out: “Run for your lives! It’s the end of the world. Allah is punishing all the sinners in this beach resort.” Most of the Thai staff from the resort were right behind him, fearing a natural disaster that forecast a supernatural apocalypse. Yai was not so easily cowed. He jogged towards the shoreline, flip-flops sinking into the sand with each step, keeping an eye out for Yves and some of the other hotel guests who were his regulars at the Sea Breeze Cocktail Lounge. Except for some parents frantic with fright as they searched for their children, and friends beachcombing for friends, nobody was walking towards the water. From his vantage point, the wave looked to be about a kilometer long and ten to fifteen meters high. The last stragglers, locals carrying buckets of fish and a dozen or so foreign adventurers, were now scrambling through the mucky seabed towards the beach. Yai was turning around when he heard a kid cry out for help. Near the shore, dressed in a turquoise bathing suit, a little girl was waving at him. Yai ran over to her…
This tale is continued in the novella, “Tsunami,” from The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (Tuttle 2014) by Jim Algie. Stay tuned for more in the next issue. DECEM BER 2014 | 39
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listings
Ananta Samakhom Palace Throne Hall
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE THRONE HALL [MAP 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadamnoen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [MAP 4/A3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2216 7368 jimthompsonhouse. com | 9am-5pm | B100/B50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [MAP 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 8185 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, Daily | B50/B20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION [MAP 8/F8] 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd | 0 2281 1569 | TueSun 9.30am-4pm | B100 40 | DECEM BER 2014
Erawan Shrine The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD PALACE [MAP 8/K11] Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 0 2245 4934 | suanpakkad.com | 9am4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
SHRINES ERAWAN SHRINE [MAP 4/G5] Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan BTS Chit Lom | Free Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE [MAP 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | Free A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE [MAP 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | Free
The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
TEMPLES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [MAP 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | Tha Chang Pier | 0 2222 0094, 0 2623 5500 8.30am-3.30 pm | B500 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
WAT ARUN [MAP 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd | 0 2465 5640 | watarun.com | 8am-5pm | B100 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.
WAT PO (RECLINING BUDDHA) [MAP 7/D12]
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd | 0 2226 0369 watpho.com | 8am-5pm | B100 bangkok101.com
listings
Wat Ratchanatda The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.
WAT MAHATHAT [MAP 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 0 2221 5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.
WAT RATCHANATDA [MAP 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 0 2224 8807 | 8.30am-6pm free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
WAT SAKET [MAP 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd | 0 2233 4561 7.30am-5.30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
WAT SUTHAT & THE GIANT SWING [MAP 7/H9]
Bamrung Muang Rd | 0 2222 9632 | 9am-9pm Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze bangkok101.com
Wat Arun sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT TRAIMIT [MAP 6/L3] 661 Charoen Krung Rd | 0 2623 1226 MRT HuaLampong | 8am-5pm | B50/B100 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [MAP 8/L11, 12]
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) Ratchaprarop Rd | 0 2245 3008 bangkokdolls.com | Mon-Sat 8am-5pm Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier 0 2233 7027 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory
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Madame Tussauds of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
MADAME TUSSAUDS [MAP 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium 0 2658 0060 | madametussauds.com/ Bangkok | 10am-9pm | B800/B600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe’s famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 0 2653 5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm (App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it’s open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
MUSEUM OF SIAM [MAP 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier | 0 2622 2599 ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery DECEM BER 2014 | 41
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The National Museum
Royal Barge Museum
museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [MAP 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 0 2224 1333 thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm B200 | no photo allowed Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam’s main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [MAP 7/K7]
100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02621 0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [MAP 7/B4] 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 0 2424 0004 | 9am-5pm | B30/ B100 photo/B200 video This collection of ornate royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near
Ancient Siam the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [MAP 1/F6]
296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan 0 2709 1644 | ancientcity.com B500/B250 kids/B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing.
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4 4 | DECEM BER 2014
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WONDERFRUIT FESTIVAL
CHONBURI A
new 3-day event called Wonderfruit Festival makes its debut in Thailand this month. Organised by Scratch and Secret Productions, the folk behind the Wilderness Festival, Wonderfruit incorporates “live music, living stages, installation art, eco-farming and feasts and a farmer’s market, conversations and debates, film and theatre, and health and wellbeing.” The festival takes place in the grounds of Siam Country in Chonburi over December 19-21 and includes performances by Fat Freddy’s Drop, De La Soul, Seth Troxler, Hercules & Love Affair, Chet Faker, and Little Dragon among others. In addition to live music, art exhibitions, dining workshops, film screenings and theatrical performances, the event also embraces a host of outdoor activities that revolve around concepts of sustainability and good health. The organisers are laying on camping options ranging from basic 2-person tents (B5000) to boutique safari tents (B25000) accommodating 2-4 people. For more information and ticket prices, visit wonderfruitfestival.com.
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November 29 – December 6 28th Phuket King’s Cup Regatta Established in 1987 and today considered one of the best sailboat competitions in Asia, the annual King’s Cup Regatta at Phuket hosts competitive sailors from all over the globe racing off Kata Beach in dinghies, keelboats and multihull vessels.
December 6 – 7 6th Big Mountain Music Festival One of the country’s largest annual music festival (think Thai Glastonbury), this year’s Big Mountain gathering at Bonanza Khao Yai features several stages hosting some of the country’s top pop and rock acts. Heavyweights such as Big Ass, Thaitanium, Moderndog, Sweet Mullet, Palmy and Paradox will have Thai youth bouncing around the fields as they make sweet music in the mountains.
December 12 – 14 Vintage Car Rally With an emphasis on cruising rather than racing, this annual vintage car rally starts in Bangkok and makes its stately way over 225 kms to Hua Hin. The event draws a fraternity of classic car lovers and in previous years has featured over 60 cherished vehicles including Bentleys, E-Type Jaguars, Ford Mustangs, rare Mercs, and chic Fiats and Alfa Romeos. The climax of the rally is a parade of the vehicles around Hua Hin city center followed by a luxurious dinner sponsored by local hotels and restaurants.
December 13 – January 11 Jim Thompson Farm Tours The tours at the Jim Thompson farm at Pak Thong Chai, Nakhon Ratchasima province (Korat), provide a unique opportunity to observe the silk worm rearing and silk farming process as part of the Issan way of life. Other highlights include mushroom cultivation, hydroponic flower gardens, fruit orchards, decorative plant nurseries and large fields of colourful flowers.
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hotel review
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CENTARA GRAND MIRAGE BEACH RESORT - A Wonderful World of Water -
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ess than a two hour drive from Bangkok, Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort on picturesque Wong Amat beach at Pattaya is a fantastic option for short and long-stay family holidays. A destination in its own right, it describes itself as ‘a playground for everyone’ and such is the case. Designed to a Lost World theme – it remains Pattaya’s only fully themed resort – the hotel boasts 555 rooms and suites, all with ocean views, spread across two cliff-like wings. The rooms are spacious, ranging from 42 to 326 square metres, and all come with a furnished balcony or terrace on which to enjoy the views and the sea breezes. Most rooms offer a king-sized bed or two double beds, with the Deluxe Family Residences also providing bunk beds for children. Every room category features a spacious bathroom with walk-in shower and amenities such as flat-screen TVs with international satellite channels, radio and in-house music, in-room safe, minibar, internet access, and tea and coffee making facilities.
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The elegant suites are super-spacious, providing a haven for couples and plenty of room for families. The Grand Mirage Duplex suites encompass two floors of accommodation connected by a spiral staircase. These are large enough for four adults and four children. The super-luxurious Royal Suite is also spread over two floors and has enough space for a large family or group of people. It comes with its own private sundeck and large swimming pool. Not that you’ll be spending that much time indoors, because the resort has myriad attractions with which all members of the family can fill their day. The children can enjoy the extensive Kids’ Club run by professional supervisors and resident entertainers who lay on fun daily activities. There is also an indoor Camp Safari and games room for the very young while teenagers have a separate E-Zone with games consoles and a meeting area. The resort’s main attraction though is its huge water park. Set within jungle-like gardens stretching from the main buildings down to the beach, it is home to no less bangkok101.com
hotel review
than 5 swimming pools – a children’s pool, an infinity pool, a lap pool (strictly for the use of adults only), a large freeform pool, and the ‘lazy river’ which winds its way through the gardens and has various waterslides and waterfalls along its course. A recent addition to this water world is the aptly named Monsoon Island, a dedicated zone for younger children (although dads seem to get just as big a kick out of it). Constructed with non-slip padded flooring, the zone has an array of water spouts, sprays and water cannons and a jumbo tip-up water bucket mounted on a tower. It is a safe and fun area in which pre-teens can keep cool and burn off energy. Beyond this is the resort’s own 230-metre stretch of Wong Amat beach, a playground of fine sand where an extensive range of water sports and other activities can be enjoyed, including windsurfing, kayaking, snorkelling, boating, volleyball and fishing. All of which leaves mum and dad blissfully free to relax on their own – dad perhaps over a few cold beers at the main pool’s swim-up bar, mum with some aqua aerobics or a traditional Thai massage at SPA Cenvaree, an oasis of calm and relaxation set within its own village to one side of the water park. Then at the end of the day the family can reassemble for some much-needed nourishment, and here too the resort has a fine choice. There’s all-day dining at Oasis, which serves a hearty breakfast buffet and regular themed dinners – the seafood night on Thursdays is particularly popular. Then there’s Ginger & Lime, which offers a fascinating take on Thai, Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese cuisines. Flagship restaurant Acqua serves delicious modern Italian cuisine with the accent on fresh bangkok101.com
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seafood, and Flames is a haven for magnificently grilled meat and fish dishes. With striking décor and great views, Vistas is the perfect rendezvous point and lounge for anytime of the day, while the Zulu bar makes for a lively evening spot. As experienced hotelier Andre Brulhart, Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort’s urbane general manager, puts it “We are anything but a ‘cookie-cutter’ design hotel. This is heaven for families. We really do have something for everyone, but particularly children. In fact, it is the kids who encourage parents to come back… not, in our experience, that they need much encouragement.”
CENTARA GRAND MIRAGE BEACH RESORT 277 Moo5 Naklua, Bamlamung Pattaya, Chonburi 0 3830 1234 ext. 4148 | centarahotelsresorts.com
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OLD-SCHOOL ISLAND TRIPPING Koh Jum – one of Thailand’s true island hideaways BY JOE CUMMINGS
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ecently I’ve been hopping around Thailand’s Andaman coast to see what has been spared by mass tourism. If all you’ve ever seen is Khao Lak, Phuket and Koh Phi Phi, you might be convinced that high-density resorts, high-rise beach condos and 7-Eleven clones were the norm for Thai beaches and islands. Amazingly enough, I found there are a few places that are still untouched by this general trend. I first stopped over on Koh Jum in the early 1990s while updating the Lonely Planet Thailand guidebook. I arrived on one of the tourist boats that link Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta, with a quick stop at the southern pier on Koh Jum. I’d already been to Koh Lanta a few times by that point and could see where the latter was heading – and as fast as it could. Koh Phi Phi by this time was unrecognisable compared to my first visit there in 1981. Back then amoeba-shaped Koh Jum was relaxed, friendly and undeveloped. A couple of rustic beach bungalow developments perched near the southern tip, where a quiet breed of backpackers congregated. Meanwhile the wild, undulating west coast to the north offered a string of empty beaches, while tidy fishing villages clung to the placid, mainland-facing east coast. Travelling for a guidebook update is usually so fastpaced and deadline-driven that one rarely has a chance
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to actually enjoy the beautiful places one is writing about. My 1990s trip to Koh Jum was no exception. No sooner had I completed a quick motorcycle survey of the island and spent a single night in a wood and bamboo-thatch bungalow, I was on another tourist boat heading to Koh Lanta, looking back over my shoulder and promising myself that someday I’d come back with more time to spare and less editorial pressure. But then as I took on co-authors for LP Thailand, I found myself leaning more towards the north of the country, letting the newbies handle the labour-intensive islands slog. Hence, though it’s difficult even for me to believe, I didn’t make it back to Koh Jum until this year. As my chartered longtail boat comes to rest on the island’s southwest coast, I’m expecting the worst. But instead of finding Koh Jum over-run by tour groups, multi-storey resorts and throbbing beach clubs, with relief I realise it doesn’t look much different. Coconut orchards and coastal mangrove backed by hillocks tufted with rainforest is how I remember the topography, and that picture hasn’t changed one bit. The sound of waves crashing on the beach and birds in the trees – striking for the complete absence of humming air-con compressors, zooming jet skis and unnecessary beach music – completes the nostalgia trip.
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I’m staying at Koh Jum Beach Villas, which makes a fine point of cultivating the laid-back approach coupled with high-quality, low-density development. Spread thinly amid 40 rai (about 16 acres) along 700 meters of beach, the privately owned villas are rented out to visitors by the night or the week. Around 80 percent of the land is covered in natural vegetation or landscaping, with an abundance of cashew and almond trees, pines and palms. The villas, which depending on the size will sleep from two to 10, are built with high-quality, licensed teak and other hardwoods, and feature thatched roofs, large wooden decks and well-designed windows that allow for generous cross-ventilation. For those of us who want to taste the salt air and fall asleep to the murmuring sea while enjoying comfortable, canopied beds and well-equipped kitchens, it doesn’t get any better than this. Houses are designed with low-energy, green design elements and maximum air flow; which provide cool microclimates in the villas and avoid the use of energydraining air conditioners. Passive solar heating on the roof supplies hot water, while electrical appliances and lighting are chosen for low-energy efficiency. After settling in at a striking one-room, two-person villa with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the beach and a private splash pool, I arrange to rent a motorcycle for a tour around the island. One of the oddities about the island is that it has two names. If you’re in the hilly northern half of the island, it’s called Koh Pu, and if on the flatter southern half, you’re in Koh Jum. Each end has a village named accordingly, Ban Koh Pu and Ban Koh Jum. As I motor away from the resort, my next big surprise is finding that most of the island roads are still unsealed. This is almost unheard of for a Thai island with a population of 2,000. There is one sealed road that links the main north-south dirt road with Ban Koh Jum on the southeast coast, and another that spiked of to Ban Ting Rai, but that’s it. Heading north, I stop off at the pretty bays of Ao Liya, Ao Ting Rai, Ao Maphrao and at the very northern tip, Ao 52 | DECEM BER 2014
Luwo, on each of which there is minimal, rustic bungalow accommodation available, much in the style I remember from the 1990s. I come around the northern end of the island to find a short road leading to Ban Koh Pu, a very tidy village with a long pier to accommodate local fishing boats. No one pays me any attention. Local men lie napping on their motorcycles. No tours to sell, no over-priced restaurants to hustle; what a pleasure. A painted sign at the entrance of the pier notes the times for ferryboats running between here and Laem Kruat on the mainland. Zigzagging south along the island’s mangrove-lined eastern shore, I finally reach Ban Koh Jum, which is slightly larger and more tourist-oriented then its northern counterpart. As the sun drops low in the sky, I park the motorbike and stroll through the seaside village looking for cold beer and fresh seafood. I find just what I need at Koh Jum Seafood, which appears to be the only real waterfront restaurant in Ban Koh Jum, perhaps on the entire island. Sitting at a wooden table on the restaurant’s pier, I enjoy an impressive meal of fresh steamed crab along with serene views of the shimmering water and islets to the east. In the distance I can just make out the profile of Koh Lanta, and take a moment to congratulate myself for not being there.
GETTING THERE Tourist boats run between Krabi, Koh Jum and Koh Lanta only between the end of October and end of April. The remainder of the year longtail boats run from Laem Kruat to Ban Koh Pu from 11am to 7pm for B70 per trip, taking 40 minutes each way. Public ferries run more frequently throughout the day for B50 per person. KOH JUM BEACH VILLAS 320 Moo 3, Koh Sriboya, Nua Klong, Krabi, Thailand 81130 kohjumbeachvillas.com | 08 6184 0505
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SPARKLE & CHEER Deck the halls with festive flair. On Christmas Eve, Santa’s signature feast will delight diners while the live bossa nova band play holiday tunes. Join the New Year’s Eve extravaganza and enjoy our chefs’ mouthwatering spread. This holiday season will be merry and bright. • December 24th, 2014 THB 1,750 net per person • December 31st, 2014 THB 2,015 net per person • Countdown Party, 11 pm – 1 am THB 755 net per person Includes: Complimentary canapés and 1 free drink (house wine, local beer or standard cocktail) • Holiday Hamper December 2014 – January 2015 THB 2,500 net per basket Includes: Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay, Courtyard teddy bear and mug, mince pies and gingerbread man
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FORMOSAN FESTIVITIES: A TEMPLE FAIR IN SHILIN NIGHT MARKET.
over the border
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A Taste of Taiwan Welcome to Formosa’s Inimitable Feast WORDS BY CRAIG SAUERS / PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN FERRERA
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ake a deep breath. Star anise and cinnamon permeate your lungs. Sautéed garlic lines your throat. Now, let it out slowly. Behind the veil linger chilli and salt, a romance in the grey smoke billowing from the wok. Sweet grilled squid, fried stinky tofu, slowboiled beef broth and entrails — the smells are at once complicated, seemingly incongruous, and intoxicating. They might just make you fall in love with Taiwan. They’ve been known to have that effect on travellers. For many, a trip to Taiwan translates to an extended culinary tour: one or two weeks, maybe a month, of night markets, noodle shops, and visits to aboriginal farms. It’s
Sausage for sale in Kaohsiung. bangkok101.com
time well spent. The island revolves around food. In fact, ask locals about their favourite dishes or where to find them — locals like Paulie Huang, co-founder of Three Little Birds, a hostel in the Shida district of Taipei — and expect a lesson on lu rou fan (braised pork on rice), the optimal texture of you tiao (deep-fried Chinese crullers), and the proper length of time needed to simmer beef tendon in a hot pot. “The best food is in Kaohsiung” says Huang, a laconic and warm-hearted entrepreneur who doubles as an editor of major motion pictures. “It’s sweeter there, sweeter than it is in Taipei. Maybe a hundred years ago, sugar was
A quick eat of rice, tofu and roast pork in Taitung. DECEM BER 2014 | 55
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Morning fog creeps over idyllic Hualien. hard to find and expensive. Putting more sugar into food was a way to show hospitality. In the South, we still cook like that. But all of Taiwan is a little different.” The regional differences she mentions result from a history of tangled influences, native and foreign. And yet, almost miraculously, as the country has taken root in ambiguous politics and tenuous sovereignty, a distinct heritage has managed to blossom.
“THE BEST FOOD IS IN KAOHSIUNG... ...IT’S SWEETER THERE, SWEETER THAN IT IS IN TAIPEI. MAYBE A HUNDRED YEARS AGO, SUGAR WAS HARD TO FIND AND EXPENSIVE. PUTTING MORE SUGAR INTO FOOD WAS A WAY TO SHOW HOSPITALITY.” Taiwan was first colonised by the Dutch and Spanish during the Age of Discovery. Enchanted by the mistshrouded mountains, long blue inlets, and native traditions, they christened it Isla Formosa — beautiful island. But Europeans weren’t the only outsiders to recognise its natural beauty. The Isle of Formosa attracted a string of suitors. In the seventeenth century, Taiwan succumbed to the Han Chinese. Later, it fell to the Japanese, who ruled for 50 years. Following the Japanese surrender in 1945, 56 | DECEM BER 2014
the island was returned to the Chinese, but the odyssey was far from over. In 1949, as the Communist party took control of China, the republican Kuomintang fled to Taiwan, setting up headquarters in Taipei under the direction of General Chiang Kai-Shek. Today, Taiwan is officially called the Republic of China, but its freedom, as well as its relationship with mainland China, remains vaguely defined. Over time, the country has become a sort of pot-au-feu — red-brick forts and cracked wooden temples contrasted by heavy industry, street after street of concrete and flickering neon — the various influences from a tangled colonial past most visible in the cuisine. The Europeans introduced foreign fruits and vegetables. The Chinese and Japanese imparted cooking techniques and flavours. Combined, these elements have helped develop a style that’s purely Taiwanese. “We’re not like China,” says Toto Sean, an outgoing polyglot from Taipei and one of three co-founders of Three Little Birds. “Taiwanese food is not as spicy [as Chinese], but it has more balance and better flavour. We eat slowly, too, enjoying every bite.” In Taiwan, breakfast choices include the everpresent bao, steamed buns filled with sweet or savoury ingredients, from pork to cabbage to sesame paste. Another popular item on the menu is the hamburger (han bao bao in local dialect), a peculiarity of Western origin that goes down surprisingly well in the morning hours. Whatever the day of the week, breakfast almost always involves a trip to a shophouse like those in the Yonghe district of New Taipei. In the predawn hours, workers at the famous Yong He Dou Jiang whip up a number of short eat-style Chinese specialties. There’s a syrup-covered bangkok101.com
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T R AV E L
over the border
Pan-fried dumplings on mass order at Shilin Night Market.
A crowd forms at Raohe Night Market in Taipei. turnip cake or shaobing, a baked flatbread topped with sesame seeds and often filled with a fried egg, scallions, and sprouts. The more adventurous might order soup dumplings or a fist-sized sticky rice ball with roasted pork in the centre. It all gets washed down with a glass of hot soy milk. Or, for younger generations, bubble milk tea. Similar restaurants exist throughout Taiwan, from Hualien to Hengchun, putting the country’s Chinese influences into focus in the early morning light. But while breakfast shops might display the country’s East Asian roots, the distinctive spirit of Taiwan lies in the night market. In fact, where there’s a city, there’s a night market. And when the sun goes down, the stalls go up, and Taiwan suddenly transforms. One of the oldest in Taipei, and perhaps the preferred choice among locals and East Asian tourists, is the Raohe Street Night Market. A stroll through its narrow alleys reveals a surreal world. Amid the cacophony of clinking video games and karaoke stalls, locals of all ages convene at rexine-covered tables. They sit hunched over plastic bowls, their lips pursed as they suck down noodles. Teen-aged boys and girls in costumes of belly-shirts, cut-off jeans, and flat-billed caps — an absurd, almost genderless modernism — drift between stalls of smart phone cases and stuffed animals, cigarettes hanging from their lips, expressionless looks in their eyes as they size up soup dumplings and oyster omelettes. Chinese and Japanese tourists flock to Raohe by the busload; dropped off at the spectacular backlit arches that mark the entrance, they stroll down two aisles of snacks, games, and trinkets. Altogether, the market feels like a sort of cyberpunk carnival. At the southern end of the island, Ruifeng Night Market in Kaohsiung draws a slightly more rambunctious crowd. 58 | DECEM BER 2014
Roast duck, pickled greens - all the fixings for a great meal. Snake-like queues form at the entrance, because the good stuff isn’t hard to find: the smells of papaya milk, blood cake, and soy-braised noodles float into the night sky, beckoning pedestrians two blocks down the road coming up from the underground MRT. In the centre of the market, food vendors give way to fashion. Street lights turn night into day. Pop music from one stall battles electronica from another. In big cities like Taipei, students and workers are notoriously busy — the work day often begins at dawn and lasts until long after sunset — so the night market becomes an essential piece of the work-life balance. It’s where cuisine collides with culture, where reality blends with fantasy, where, if only for a few hours, the grind softens and everyone can just let loose. In smaller, less mercenary cities, the night market is more of a recreation centre than a place to grab a quick dinner. A fun night out in Taichung might not involve dancing or alcohol, but rather throwing darts at balloons, trying on imported graphic tees, and snacking on chillidusted squid. In Tainan, the cultural capital of Taiwan, the location of the night market changes each day, which adds a refreshing kick of excitement to the usual experience. Between shrines, hot springs and mountain passes, a traveller can find a thousand reasons to linger in Taiwan. The most enduring memories and the greatest reason to stick around, however, might involve food. The cuisine is the window to the culture, to the soul — to the complexities of the past and the politics of the present. It’s what makes outsiders fall in love with the teardrop island. It’s the indelible proof that Taiwan will always evolve, always endure. bangkok101.com
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CHANGES WROUGHT BY TIME Vicissitudes, the latest exhibition of paintings by young artist Deang Buasan, is sprinkled with subtle gestures and tokens of the past and present. In works such as ‘The Girl from Phrae’ and ‘Mrs.Sida’ we see young women dressed in the ways of the past, but also locked into the present. With their modern day hair styles, dyes and Hello Kitty paraphernalia, they communicate this strange yet humorous synergy of the old and the new; yesterday and today. Buasan’s portraits persist in stirring our curiosity. Their soft touches and elegant strokes echo the typical, soft colours and swirls of traditional Thai Buddhist art. And yet, when viewing a painting such as She Falls Down in front of the Emerald Buddha Temple, one might wonder if Thai culture and society has been run over and left for dead on the road. At Modern Gallery (4-6 O.P. Garden, Unit#1A-1103 Charoen Krung 36, Bangrak), from October 31 – December 31
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interview
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Drawn to Life Despite her calm exterior, experienced freelance illustrator Patcharin ‘Jeed’ Jitviriyanon is excited. The holder of degrees in Applied Art from the Art Institute of Seattle in the U.S. and Rangsit University in Bangkok is looking forward to a debut exhibition of her quirky, vibrant illustrations later this month. A regular contributor to newspapers and magazines around the world (including the illustrations in these pages, which were produced exclusively for Bangkok 101), she talks to MATT WILDE about her art. When did you know or realise you wanted to be an artist? I loved to draw as a little girl but my parents used to say that artists don’t make any money! However, they were very supportive when I said I wanted to study visual communications at university. After I graduated I knew I wanted a continue in a career with an artistic bent but I don’t consider myself to be an ‘artist’, rather an illustrator. I’m in my own world when I create artwork and I’m fortunate in that I love what I do. I find it very satisfying, even more so when others appreciate the end result. bangkok101.com
How did your time in the States influence your work? Before I went to the U.S. I had not travelled outside Thailand much – a few short visits to other Asian countries and a three-week exchange in Canada – so the five years I spent in America were a real eye-opener. I had the opportunity to properly experience another culture and I loved the freedom of expression and the cultural diversity of the States. It was a source of enormous creative energy. Living and studying abroad really opened up the world of art for me. I had the chance to check out cool museums and galleries. It was inspiring. DECEM BER 2014 | 63
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interview
I was also very lucky to be taught by Bill Cumming, one of the best artists in the north western United States. He said I had a great sense of colour and his enthusiasm encouraged me and made me believe I could have a career in the arts. Who or what inspires you? Books, travel, the people around me, nature, movies, music, the city in which I live. I also get a kick out of works by other artists, such as Botoro and great illustrators like Nate Williams and Steven Appleby. You need to be open minded and realise that you can find inspiration in any number of situations and places. I’d like to travel more as I think there’s huge inspiration to be found in visiting other countries and experiencing other lifestyles. You have added elements of collage to your illustrations. What is the concept behind that? I like working with paper. It’s easily available and I like the fact that I can re-use or recycle materials. It lets me explore a different technique. Before I started working with paper I only used paint and I found this too restricting sometimes. I like to have physical contact with the material I am using because that way I feel more emotionally connected to the piece of art I am working on. I like the process of doing collage – choosing paper, cutting shapes, applying them to the artwork. It’s almost a form of meditation! Your works offer quite a tongue-in-cheek view of people. Do you consider yourself antiestablishment? If anti-establishment means working outside pre-defined rules within my discipline, then yes, I consider myself bangkok101.com
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anti-establishment. So, for example, I like to work without symmetry. I like to distort and change proportions so that they appear unusual or odd. I like to create organic collages and pieces. I don’t like things to be too sharp or too defined and I think that this is one of the reasons I have not embraced digital media; I find it too restrictive and I don’t want to be constrained by working within the routines and menus of a software programme. Contemporary Thai art is starting to come of age but what more could be done to promote the art scene in Thailand. Thanks to facilities like the Bangkok Cultural Centre and the Museum of Contemporary Art, it is definitely developing. We have many good galleries too. When Khun Shane of Serindia gallery approached me to do the illustrations for the novel Crazy Rich Asians, I felt honoured to be asked. Also, Ratchaburi [a small town two hours south of Bangkok], has a flourishing art scene, which is great because the more art spreads beyond the city, the more ordinary people can enjoy it and understand that it isn’t something just for the elite or the intelligentsia. I’d love to see more examples like this in Thailand. But I do think art in Thailand has a way to go. The more galleries like Serindia give coverage to contemporary artists and illustrators, the more possibility we have of gaining exposure. This in itself can become selfperpetuating, bringing more people in, encouraging new artists to ‘give it a go’ and follow their ambitions. See more of Patcharin’s work at jeedillustration.com
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‘10: A DECADE OF ILLUSTRATIONS BY PATCHARIN JITVIRIYANON’ 3 DECEMBER 2014 – 4 JANUARY 2015 SERINDIA GALLERY
[MAP 5/C3]
OP Garden, Unit 3101, 3201, 4-6 Soi 36 Charoen Krung Rd | 0 2238 6410, 08 7681 7882 | serindiagallery.com I Tue-Sun 11am-8pm
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exhibitions
OFF THE WALL
THAVIBU GALLERY [MAP 5/D5] F4, Jewelry Trade Center, Suite 433, 919/1 Silom Rd 0 2266 5454 | Mon-Sat 11am-7pm | thavibu.com l BTS Surasak
Until December 13 With Myanmar undergoing significant changes as the country tentatively opens its doors to an influx of investment, so too is there heightened interest in the nation’s artists, with street artists also gaining greater exposure. Both Wunna Aung and Thu Myat use Yangon’s public spaces as canvases to create their topical commentaries.
LADY IMAGE 2
ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 0 2422 2092 Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallery.com
Until December 21 Anchalee Arayapongpanich’s latest exhibition presents imaginative paintings of the artist herself in the roles of various fictional characters. In the works Anchalee adopts (among others) the personas of a biker, a hunter in the snow and a shark wrangler to portray the confidence, strength and bravery of females, idealized images that challenge the current notions of the roles taken by women in society.
BANGKOK IN TECHNICOLOR
KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY [MAP 5/E5] 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 0 2234 6700 | Tue-Sun 11am-7pm kathmandu-bkk.com | BTS Chong Nonsi
Until December 27 Manit Sriwanichpoom exhibits photographs from his fullcolour photo book, ‘Bangkok in Technicolor’. The morphing of Bangkok is now nearly complete; the result a strange mutation, a new environment garish and alien. Loomed over by the monstrous purple hybrid angel/Christmas tree and the fantasy landscape of giant billboards, riveted to a screen held in their palms, the people in this space and time surrender themselves, and their city, to the homogenous consumerist dream of imagined worldly joys.
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HOFEST
HOF ART [MAP 3/Y11] 1599/288-290 Sukhumvit Rd | 08 7438 3681, 08 9926 2196 10am-7pm | BTS Prakhanong
Until January 17 Capitalising on their unique location at W District, with its large square of booze and dining stalls, Hof Art and Hof Residency is staging a bumper cool season culture carnival every weekend from mid-month through to mid-January. Activities include an art market, rooftop cinema, video, ceramic, and street art, body painting, live music, fashion, tattooing, talks and workshops.
LOTUS DISCO
WHITESPACE GALLERY [MAP 4/L6-7] 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1, Rama IV Rd | 08 1699 5298 whitesp-cegallery.com | MRT Lumpini
Until January 18 Maitree Siriboon’s series of three-dimensional lotus-shaped (bua) mosaic ‘disco balls’ were created during his residency at Thaillywood in Chonburi province. Born out of nocturnal Bangkok, the immersive installation evokes a nightclub atmosphere of disco globes, flashing lights, pumping tunes, and smoke filled rooms. Subverting negative nightlife connotations, Maitree envisions the discotheque as a metaphor for the experiences of fellow Isaan folk who populate the entertainment industry.
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cheat notes
STARS AND STRIPES AT THE COURT OF SIAM
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aunched in Bangkok last month, the 304-page hardback book Americans in Thailand recounts the fascinating history of the Kingdom’s American community. Focusing on famous and notorious personalities through the eras, the colourful tale begins with the first American to set foot on Siamese soil in 1818. It then describes how the early missionaries, diplomats and traders navigated – sometimes with hilarious or disastrous results – the unfamiliar terrain and customs of Siam. In the 20th century, Americans became more influential, with several assuming powerful roles within the Siamese court and assisting the country’s reforms. By the 1970s, American influence was becoming ubiquitous and increasingly contentious, as the Vietnam War era inspired clandestine operations, decadence and development. Today, Americans living in Thailand continue to contribute in compelling ways. Collected in this lavishly illustrated volume are many of their stories and historical nuggets never unearthed before. Several long-time American residents of Thailand contributed their writing, including Denis Gray, Bangkok bureau chief for the Associated Press for more than 30 years; Nicholas Grossman, who created Chronicle of Thailand and other historical volumes on the Kingdom; Jeff Hodson, who is former editor and reporter for The Seattle Times and was a project director for Internews in Chiang Mai; Robert Horn, who has worked as a reporter in Thailand for Time magazine and the Associated Press; and Wesley Hsu, an award-winning copy writer. An allowance was also made for Canadian writer Jim Algie, whose latest book is The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand. Archives expert Grissarin Chungsiriwat led the picture and text research. Published by Editions Didier Millet and priced at B1250, Americans in Thailand is available at all good local bookstores.
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THAI DESIGN GETS H.O.T.
art & culture photofeature By Craig Sauers
Hotel FantAsia wowed visitors with its ethereal vision of the future of hospitality.
Inspired by the fishing village in which he was raised, Mr Korakot Aromdee uses netting to catch light.
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ospitality is in the midst of a revolution. Words like “upcycle” and “craftology” – a blend of craftsmanship and technology coined by Thai designer Eggarat Wongcharit – are emerging in industry lingo. Conceptual art and cutting-edge interior design have begun to define restaurant, resort, spa, bar, and hotel space. And, increasingly, international brands are refashioning their look with the works of Thai and Asian designers. That was the message of Hospitality Objects Thailand (H.O.T.), part of the Bangkok International Gift and Housewares Fairs 2014 (BIG and BIH), which took place this October and attracted hundreds of designers and thousands of consumers to BITEC Bang Na. From Thai-centric exhibitions, like Talent Thai and Isaan Objects, to the broader Asia Talents and Hotel FantAsia – nine spaces in all that imagined the hotels of the future, each conveying a different aesthetic to appeal to the world’s kaleidoscopic tastes – H.O.T. comprised all facets of hospitality. Taking part were jewellers, graphic artists, and furniture makers; interior decorators, painters, and chefs. Over three days limited to registered buyers and two days open to the
public, the Thai and Asian design communities were given a platform to trumpet their distinctive spin on interior design and art. H.O.T. linked consumers with creators at a pivotal moment, as attention in the global hospitality industry has begun to shift to Thailand. “Our rich heritage and history of handicrafts set us apart,” explained Wongcharit, an instrumental figure in the institution of H.O.T. “We’ve taken our work abroad many times, but now Thailand has the opportunity to become a hub for design.” His comments were echoed by ML Kathathong Thongyai, Director of the Thailand Institute of Design and Innovation Promotion, who was upbeat on the abundant creative potential in Thailand, saying, “We have such a wonderful talent pool in terms of design in Thailand and it is our mission to help international businesses understand and recognise the DNA of Thai design. We no longer imitate, we innovate. Our traditions and culture have helped to forge unique products that are distinct from their Western counterparts. Events like H.O.T. are definitely putting the exciting world of Thai design at centre stage.”
Thai motifs resound in the artwork that surrounds EH 106, BITEC Bang Na, at H.O.T. 2014.
Hotel FantAsia wowed visitors with its ethereal vision of the future of hospitality.
“Fragile but not failure.� Hypothesis shared its distinctive view on the future of hotels at TIDA Salone.
Wood, ceramics, and metal share space in TIDA Salone at H.O.T.
Fine dining meets style and comfort in the hotel of the future.
As Thai jewellery brand Sarran shows, the reach of “hospitality� extends beyond furniture and lighting.
This space at the TIDA Salone considers the web and all its trapping as a product and function of the modern world.
Exhibitors set up early at Talent Thai 2014, part of H.O.T.
NEW YEAR’S EVE MENU MOON SHINE AT SOFITEL SO P82 78 | DECEM BER 2014
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AROY JAZZY BRUNCH MAKEOVER
Executive Chef Luca Cesarini brings new treats to Sunday morning’s finest family feast. Every Sunday between 12-noon and 3pm at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit you can savour an incredible selection of cuisines served across three venues: Rossini’s, Basil, and The Living Room. New highlights include a fresh oyster bar and a cured meats station serving air-dried meats, Chef Luca’s terrines, and succulent marinated fish. Prices are B2300++ per adult and B1200++ per child. Free flow Prosecco, wines, and beers are priced at B1200++ per adult.
MICHELIN MEETS BANGKOK
Designed by Michelin-starred Chef Jean-Michel Lorain and run by his protégé, Chef Amerigo Sesti, the new J AIME at U Sathorn delivers impeccable French cuisine and attentive service with a twist. Greeted by the Maître d at the door, guests dine in a conceptual “upside down” space, a true oneof-a-kind. J’AIME is Chef Jean-Michel’s first foray into Asia, and it’s sure to be a hit. Open for lunch from 11.30am to 3pm and dinner from 6pm to 11pm.
CAPITAL DINING
The latest venue in the Water Library’s growing portfolio, The Capital by Water Library at Empire Tower Sathorn delivers fresh seafood and high-quality meat selections in a quaint bar-and-grill setting. The restaurant promises great value, with imported steaks starting at B750. And for every cut of beef and selection of seafood, there’s a craft beer, cocktail, or wine to pair with it. The Capital is open Monday to Saturday from 11.30am to midnight. For reservations, please call 0 2286 9548 or email thecapital@waterlibrary.com.
KEEN FOR CAVIAR
Indulge in a rare treat this December at Park Society at Sofitel So. Chef Angela Brown has prepared a decadent 5-course caviar menu, including king crab and caviar salad, a sea urchin and caviar main dish, and a cheesecake dessert with raspberry caviar. The meal comes in at B2999++ per person. Reservations are highly recommended. For more information, please call 0 2624 0000 or email H6835-FB5@Sofitel.com.
CHIM BANGKOK CHARITY WEEK
Following the success of Bangkok Restaurant Charity Week in 2013, the event returns this month as ‘Chim Bangkok 2014’. Staged from December 6-17, gastronomic highlights include long-table al fresco dining with dishes provided by a host of Bangkok’s leading chefs, wine classes, and culinary workshops by David Thompson of Nahm, Gaggan Anand of Gaggan, Ian Kittichai of Issaya and Haikal Johari of Water Library. All profits from the event will be donated to the White Ladle Foundation. For more information on participating chefs, restaurants/venues, and pricing and bookings, please visit chimbangkok.com. bangkok101.com
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festive meal deals
57th Street Restaurant and the District Grill Room & Bar at Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit are offering tasty deals on meals and drinks for the holidays (from B2350++ per person). You’re also invited to ring in the New Year high above the city at Octave, the bustling rooftop bar. Entrance is free for the first 60 guests. --------------------------------------------------------------Throughout December, Vertigo, the famous rooftop bar and restaurant at the Banyan Tree Bangkok, is offering a selection of decadent mushrooms, including chanterelle, porcini, and Italian truffles. Savour these rare treats with a soundtrack of live jazz through December 7. Entry is B699 nett, including a drink. --------------------------------------------------------------The Berkeley Hotel Pratunam’s Dining Room and The Mulberry Multi-Cuisine Restaurant invite you to a spectacular Christmas Eve dinner, complete with holiday decorations, carols and a spread of Japanese, Thai, Chinese and Italian cuisines for B1999 nett per adult (free for children under 6 and half-priced for kids aged 6-12). Return on New Year’s Eve to indulge in a grand seafood buffet (B2558 nett per person). --------------------------------------------------------------Throughout December Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok offers special Christmas and New Year hampers full of epicurean goodies. The deluxe hamper includes biscuit roses de Reims, fruit cake, macaroons, Johnnie Walker Black, and more for B5200 nett. Other hampers include chocolate chip cookies, 1837 TWG black tea, sparkling wine, and Christmas stollen cake for B3500 nett. --------------------------------------------------------------Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok presents a variety of activities and delicious meals for the holiday season. Celebrate Christmas Eve with a 3-course set menu for B750++ per person at Café 9, or head over to WALK Bar, where you can enjoy a buffet of cocktails and snacks for B599++ and then sing along to Christmas carols. --------------------------------------------------------------Savour a seafood lunch buffet at Panorama at Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park on Father’s Day, Christmas Eve, and Christmas Day for B1500++. Or visit Xin Tian Di for dim sum delicacies and unique à la carte treats for B14000++ on Father’s Day and New Year’s Eve. --------------------------------------------------------------The Square Restaurant at Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit offers a classic buffet dinner with seafood, foie gras, roast turkey with trimmings, and a Christmas log on 24 December, and a lunch buffet on Christmas day, both for B1190++. For a change of pace, Dee Lounge and Beer Garden are serving a special Christmas set dinner with a live band and a visit from Santa Claus to boot for B499++. --------------------------------------------------------------On Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, enjoy a BBQ and buffet dinner at The Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers’ restaurant Feast (B2300 nett per person), or head to Giorgio’s for a set dinner of Italian favourites (B2000 nett per person). On New Year’s Eve, the riverside Feast and Sambal restaurants are doing a gala dinner (B8200 nett per person) while Giorgio’s offers another mouth-watering set dinner (B6500 nett per person). 80 | DECEM BER 2014
Join the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit this Christmas Eve for an international spread, featuring Italian antipasti, traditional European Christmas favourites, spicy Asian snacks, and decadent desserts (B3200 for adults, B1600 for kids). Then, ring in the New Year at BarSu with DJs and live music from the Seditious Band while enjoying free-flow spirits and beer for B1000 nett. --------------------------------------------------------------Celebrate Christmas Eve at Brasserie Europa at Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok with a buffet and live cooking stations (B4750), and enjoy a scrumptious buffet feast on Christmas Day, as well (B4200). For New Year’s Eve, Brasserie Europa, Niche, and Rotunda Pool Bar unite for a party under the stars with food, drinks, and music for B5800. --------------------------------------------------------------A delicious buffet dinner at Party House One at Siam@ Siam Design Hotel Bangkok is sure to set the mood for your Christmas Eve. You’re also invited to La Vue and The Roof Restaurant for a special 5-course set dinner menu (B5500 nett per person) and The Roof Sky Bar, which offers festive cocktails at the special price of B350 nett per drink. --------------------------------------------------------------Sofitel So Bangkok has unveiled a line-up of lunches, dinners, and countdown parties for Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day. A series of 12 culinary events includes buffet lunches and dinners at Red Oven, degustation at Park Society and The Water Club, and DJ countdown parties at The Water Club, Park Society Terrace, and HI-SO Rooftop Bar. Prices start from B1200. --------------------------------------------------------------Over at The Sukhothai Bangkok, you can start a month of celebrations with an international buffet lunch at Colonnade priced (B1150). Then, come back for a delicious Christmas Eve buffet dinner (B2900++ per person) and a New Year’s Eve buffet dinner, including foi gras, lobster bisque, and fresh seafood (B2900++ per person). --------------------------------------------------------------Do Christmas right with a holiday feast at W Bangkok. The Shine on Xmas Brunch includes a number of seasonal delights, like roast turkey, prime rib, leg of lamb, Christmas pudding, and more for B2999 nett per person for food, soft drinks, and juices (add B500 for beer, wine, and spirits). --------------------------------------------------------------Unforgettable Cantonese classics at Twenty-Seven Bites at the Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok will light up your New Year’s Eve (starting at B990++). As the night unfolds, let loose with free flow of drinks and a fabulous international buffet (starting at B1215++). --------------------------------------------------------------Get a taste of home at Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok’s Tables Grill on Christmas Eve, where European favourites meet quaint holiday decorations and festivities (B4500++). Then, celebrate the last day of 2014 in proper style with an exquisite dinner buffet for B5888++. --------------------------------------------------------------Count down to 2015 at the Intercontinental Bangkok’s all-day dining restaurant, Espresso. Throughout December, enjoy lavish brunches, buffets, and à la carte menus starting at B2400++ per person, and get your party started with freeflow beverage packages starting at B1499++ per person. bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRIN K
review
SOFITEL SO FESTIVE DINING With stunning views over Lumpini Park towards the city and a collection of ultra stylish modern outlets, there’s no better place to enjoy Christmas and New Year than Sofitel So. And they’re firing on all cylinders this year with their Glittering White Festive Season, featuring 12 special events on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day. Red Oven, Park Society, The Water Club and HISO Rooftop Bar will be decorated in glittering white for the occasion, and there’s something for everyone, from buffet lunches to degustation dinners and DJ countdown parties. The fun begins with a buffet dinner on Christmas Eve at Red Oven (B2400++; B1200++/child) with traditional turkey, mince pies, pigs in a blanket, trifles, eggnog ice cream and homemade mulled wine. The restaurant also hosts a buffet lunch and a buffet dinner on Christmas Day (both B2400++; B1200++/child). Also on Christmas Eve, there’s a five-course degustation menu (B4800++/B5900++ with wine pairing) at the elegant Park Society, a sumptuous hall of mirrors with nods to Art Deco. Among the quality produce are seared scallops, pan-seared foie gras and sticky ginger bread pudding. The restaurant has another five-course degustation menu on Christmas Day at the same price. Three dinners on New Year’s Eve include a mountain of dishes at Red Oven, such as seafood on ice, a caviar corner and a chocolate fountain amid the comprehensive dessert section (B3900++ and B1950++/child). 82 | DECEM BER 2014
Park Society adopts the theme of gold for its six-courses on December 31 (B5000++/B9000++ with wine, and free access to the Park Society Terrace Countdown party). Among the standouts are chilled Canadian lobster salad, and a delightful sea urchin dish served with scallop and caviar on a bed of velvety cauliflower custard with ponzu foam. The meal ends with the decadent Moon Shine, a chocolate sphere covered with edible gold dust. You either crack it with a hazelnut praline hammer or pour on the accompanying hot caramel sauce to melt the surface. Inside are chocolate mousse, fresh berries and hazelnut praline. A five-course dinner at The Water Club (B6200++) includes a glass of Gosset Brut Champagne. Guests can see in the New Year at one of the DJ Countdown parties at The Water Club (B1400 net, including two drinks) or Park Society Terrace (B2000 net, including one drink). Canapés will be served from 9pm-11pm at the HI-SO cocktail countdown on the rooftop (B4900 net), with free flow wine, beer and cocktails until 1am. To help revellers recover, on New Year’s Day Red Oven extends its brunch until 4pm (B1950++/B2350++ with free flow wine, B975++/child). And for people celebrating at home, the hotel’s Chocolab has two Festive Hamper sets (B2600 net), available until January 1.
SOFITEL SO BANGKOK [MAP 8/L17] 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 sofitel.com
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The Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok 19 sukhumvit soi 18 Bangkok 10110 www.rembrandtbkk.com
FOOD & DRIN K
review
RUEN URAI - Traditional style, contemporary tastes Located in a beautifully restored 100-year old Thai golden teakwood house decorated with fine antiques and elegant silk-covered furnishings, Ruen Urai (meaning ‘the House of Gold’) at the Rose Hotel off Surawongse Road offers a unique take on traditional Thai cooking styles, giving them a contemporary lift. This is why the menu – which is refreshed annually and was recently bolstered by seven new dishes inspired by zesty rural cuisine – includes a number of non-Thai staples such as scallops, salmon, tuna, snowfish, soft-shell crab and lamb. The new dishes on the menu are mainly dry cooked having been marinated in roasted herbs and spices. No insipid sloppy wet sauces here but plenty of robust flavours. Of particular note is roasted curry of pork spare ribs (B300) and a dish of wild boar sautéed in a thick curry sauce (B350). Both are hearty offerings – Thai winter comfort food if you like – and perfectly demonstrate the four cardinal taste characteristics of rural Thai cuisine – a balance of sweet, salty, bitter and sour. Slightly more subtle in flavour is grilled chicken in turmeric (B280), the tender pieces of chicken taking on a lovely mixed aroma derived from the smoky charcoal grill and the gentle spice. It is a fine contrast to stir-fried sea bass in dry curry paste (B320), which delivers a delightful 84 | DECEM BER 2014
chilli punch. Also highly recommended as a sort of Thai surf ‘n’ turf pairing is stir-fried beef striploin with tree basil leaves (B350) and grilled river prawns in a spicy galangal dressing (B380). The beef is very tender while the prawns are succulent and sweet. After such a filling repast you may not feel inclined to have a dessert but assorted traditional Thai mixed confections (B330/big plate, B150/small plate) are bitesized mouthfuls of sweet delight while Thai tea-flavoured panna cotta (B80) is beautifully light and smooth. The restaurant, which can accommodate up to 70 diners, has a small outdoor terrace where a comprehensively stocked bar serves a range of cocktails and beers. It also has a very good wine list featuring a selection of labels from both old and new world producers. These are mainly priced in the very reasonable B900-B1800 range. Ruen Urai, which was originally the home of a herbal medical doctor in the time of Rama V, is a fine choice for an introduction to the authentic flavours of traditional Thai cuisine.
RUEN URAI [MAP 5/H4] Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd | 0 2266 8268 ruen-urai.com | 12 noon-11pm
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review
WINE CONNECTION - Casual dining personified at Rain Hill Originally established in Thailand in the late 1990s as a wine importer and distributor, Wine Connection really took off when owner Frenchman Michael Trocherie decided to add first deli counters at some of his wine shops and then tapas bar and bistro dining options at others. So successful has this evolution been – the business now operates 47 outlets and counting across the region – that Wine Connection can justifiably claim to be the leading wine retail chain in Southeast Asia. One of the most popular Wine Connection outlets in Bangkok is the branch at the Rain Hill lifestyle mall on the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 47. Recently renovated to include a new lounge area, the venue falls in the ‘Tapas Bar & Bistro’ category. It has something of a glassed-in tropical vibe to it thanks to a façade festooned with climbing plants and other flora. The casual dining concept here attracts a trendy crowd of 30-something local and expat professionals bent on enjoying home-made tapas and bistro classics over a choice of cocktails or a glass or two of wine. Wine Connection stocks some 500 wine labels (most in the B800-B1500 per bottle range), including a very palatable new house wine, Les Solstices, a Rhone Valley wine available for B100 per glass. Unique to the Rain Hill outlet, there are also 12 draft craft beers from Europe, including a couple of crackers from Belgium. 86 | DECEM BER 2014
From the extensive menu a good starter is the Cold Cut Platter for two (B290), a selection of dry-cured prosciutto and salami served with a portion of pate and whole-wheat bread. This could be followed by one of numerous pasta options – the ravioli salmon (B220) offers up pockets of sheer delight – or a pizza (B160-B230), or an entrée from a variety of prime Australian steaks served with wedge-cut fries and a choice of sauces. The 200 gram tenderloin (B450) is particularly good and pairs well with the smoked salmon and feta cheese salad (B190). A nice way to finish off is with a large slice of decadent and rich raspberry cheesescake (B110). As a nod to local eating traditions, a whole section of the menu is devoted to ‘Share It’ meals for two and throughout the week at Rain Hill diners can also enjoy a combo platter (B199) comprising any of 3 tapas dishes from a choice of 17. Relaxed, lacking pretention and offering good food and wine picks at remarkably reasonable prices, Wine Connection at Rain Hill and its sister deli & bistro outlets are set to go from strength to strength.
WINE CONNECTION TAPAS BAR & BISTRO [MAP3 /P10] 1st Flr, Rain Hill, Sukhumvit 47 | 0 261 7217 wineconnectiontapasbarbistro.com | 10am-1am
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review
BARSU - Old Favourite Goes Gastro There is no lack of choice when it comes to locations to eat and drink in the Thai capital, but it is somewhat surprising that the term ‘gastro pub’ isn’t often voiced in connection with Bangkok’s dining scene. Perhaps this is because of the availability of delicious low-cost food on every corner? Whatever the case, the city’s ‘chic pub’ scene has been relatively slow to embrace such eateries in the way the UK and USA have. That said, this has not deterred Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit from taking the bold decision to switch the vibe of its BarSu venue from a ‘drink, dine, dance’ destination to a modern gastro lounge, although the change isn’t immediately noticeable. The décor remains strikingly familiar, albeit with minor variations – the DJ booth has been retired and the open kitchen has morphed into a quaint delicatessen. The real revamp, however, can be found in the pages of BarSu’s playful new menu. With a philosophy of rustic ‘down-to-earth food at down-to-earth prices’, the hotel’s Executive Chef Luca Cesarini has composed an extensive choice of offerings encompassing the usual gastro favourites prepared with local twists. Of note is the feisty Yellow Fin Tuna Tartare (B390) which sparkles with a combination of lime and chilli – a wonderful taste sensation that works effortlessly. The Chicken Massala Asian Skewers (B320) also hit the mark, 88 | DECEM BER 2014
aided by a tomato, coriander and mint salsa with a frisky mango relish for balance. However, any self-respecting gastro bar lives and dies by its burger range. Not quite ‘taster’ size, yet more manageable than the overbearing portions at some fashionable joints, BarSu’s burgers certainly aren’t found wanting in the taste stakes. The signature Chicken Burger (B360) comes topped with a generous helping of powerful Blue Jack cheese in a beet-dyed bun with sides of sautéed mushrooms and chunky home-style fries. In terms of drinks, BarSu’s list includes Rossini’s Italian range of imported craft beers alongside regular domestic offerings. The cocktails are the real showstoppers here though. The potent Lady Killer cranberry caipirinha (B290) delivers a buzz akin to a kick with a steel toe-capped boot but without compromising on flavour, while the signature Su Su Margarita (B300) offers an icy chalice of slushy deliciousness that should be tried at least once. Still finding its feet in its new guise, BarSu’s revamped menus certainly suggest that this old dog has the potential for many new tricks.
BARSU
[MAP 3/H10]
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2649 8358 barsubangkok.com | Open daily 10am-11pm
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The Fine Art of Thai Cuisine Ruen Urai, “the House of Gold,� combines Thai culinary art with an elegant ambience. Inspired by Thailand's diverse regions, cultures and styles, our gastronomic creations vary from royal Thai cuisine to refined home-cooking. Discover the secret oasis of Ruen Urai. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 Fax. (66) 2 266 8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
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preview
FOOD AMBASSADORS @CENTRAL EMBASSY - European cuisine at its finest Bangkok’s gourmets are in for a real treat between now and 21 December. As part of the Le Cabinet de Curiosités de Thomas Erber event taking place at Central Embassy this month, two renowned European chefs will be showcasing their culinary talents. Following the appearance of Chef Bertrand Grébaut at the start of the lifestyle and fashion exhibition in November, this month Slovenian chef Ana Ros and French chef Virginie Laval will be putting on special dinner menus at Okura Prestige. Chef Ana highlights her cuisine at the hotel from 1-6 December and gives a master class and food tasting at SIWILAI Rocket at the 5th floor of Central Embassy on 7 December at 2pm. She is followed by Chef Virginie who will be Okura Prestige from 8-13 December. She too rounds out her week-long stay with a similar master class cooking demonstration at SIWILAI Rocket on 14 December. Chef Ana, who owns guest house Hiša Franko with her husband Valter, has an almost scientific approach in the kitchen, with an emphasis on fresh ingredients with strong taste. Raw food is her favourite medium and she has a strong preference for the element of surprise: different textures, taste contrasts, and significant use of herbs and spices. She considers herself an ambassador, with 90 | DECEM BER 2014
her cuisine a way for visitors to understand the territory, people and culture of her home in the Soca Valley of Slovenia. Lamb from the neighbouring mountains, beef from nearby meadows, wild herbs and flowers are all common ingredients in her cooking. Born in Corsica and raised in Paris by her grandmother, Chef Virginie is a self-taught woman. She acquired the creative bug not only from her family but also through her travels, especially in Asia which, she says, awakened her senses through cultural and sensual shocks. A darling of the Michelin guide, her creations are the results of her desires and are constantly evolving. Flavoured and refined, with Asian and Mediterranean influences, she refuses to stick to ridged or precise and scientific recipes but lets her sense go. Her cuisine features exceptionally fresh produce and the dishes she plans for her Bangkok visit include the best fish, poultry and meats prepared with the freshest local ginger, lemongrass, basil and Thai greens. Discover more about the food philosophies of these amazing talents and book a place at their cooking demonstrations at Le Cabinet de Curiosités de Thomas Erber online at: siwilaistore.com | centralembassy.com | cdc-te.com
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RIVERSIDE DINING EXPERIENCE - Twenty-five Restaurants on the Chao Phraya Unite for a Dining Fest -
For centuries, the Chao Phraya River has been the lifeblood of Bangkok. Now, it is becoming the focal point of renewed activity as locals and visitors flock to the waterfront to shop, dine out, and take in the sights. The upcoming Riverside Dining Experience, from 1221 December, is a shining example of this movement. An initiative of the Bangkok Riverside Marketing Partnership (BRMP), an alliance of venues located on the banks of the Chao Phraya, it brings together twenty-five fine dining restaurants located between Rama III Bridge and the Khlong San Pier. Each will offer lavish 3-course set dinner menus with an appetizer, an entree and a dessert for just B999 nett per guest. Most importantly, B50 from each meal enjoyed during the event will be used to fund future river clean-up activities. During the 10-day Riverside Dining Experience, foodlovers are invited to sample a variety of exquisite meals at the participating restaurants, each located within one of eight prominent riverside hotels. Carefully created by the restaurants’ renowned head chefs, the 3-course menus feature international cuisines ranging from delectable Thai favourites to impeccable Italian and Chinese dishes. Celebrating the many attractions that line the waterfront, and marking a return to prominence of riverside dining, this is a great opportunity to experience diverse al fresco and air-conditioned fine dining options with fantastic views. Advanced booking is required as seating is limited. For an overview of all the participating restaurants, as well as the specially developed 3-course menus, and to book a table, bangkokriverexperience.com/restaurantweek. Bookings can also be made by calling the participating restaurants directly. Delicious food, lovely ambiance, and all for a great cause — what’s not to love? bangkok101.com
The 25 restaurants participating in the Riverside Dining Experience (Dec 12-21) ANGELINI – Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok BRIO – Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa COCONUT TERRACE – Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside FEAST – Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers FLOW – Millennium Hilton Bangkok GIORGIO’S – Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers MAYA – Millennium Hilton Bangkok MEI JIANG – The Peninsula Bangkok NEXT2 – Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok PIER 28 – Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok PRIME – Millennium Hilton Bangkok RIVER BARGE RESTAURANT – Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok RIVER CAFE & TERRACE – The Peninsula Bangkok SALA RIM NAAM – Mandarin Oriental Bangkok SALATHIP – Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok SAMBAL BAR & GRILL – Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers SHANG PALACE – Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok SILVER WAVES – Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok TERRACE@72 – Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside THARA THONG – Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers THE CHINA HOUSE – Mandarin Oriental Bangkok THE LOBBY – The Peninsula Bangkok THIPTARA – The Peninsula Bangkok TRADER VIC’S – Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa YUAN – Millennium Hilton Bangkok
bangkokriverexperience.com/restaurantweek DECEM BER 2014 | 91
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in the kitchen
JASON BAILEY & BEE SATONGUN talks to Howard Richardson
Chef Jason Bailey says, “We look back into ancient Thai cookbooks and use them to get ideas for modern Thai food. They’re a revelation on technique and discipline. The recipes are so much more complex than today. I’m searching for those principals – to understand the herb ratios.” Some of these old cookbooks contained recipes from the Sanitwong family, who are partners in the new branch of Paste that opened in Gaysorn Plaza at the end of November. Jason’s wife Bee Satongun, head chef of that operation, leads me to the tiny L-shaped kitchen of the original restaurant on Soi 49. She will show me how to make Roast Duck, Nutmeg, Curry Paste and Sawtooth Coriander on Rice Crackers, a dish based on an original Sanitwong recipe. First she grinds dry spices – cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin seeds, cloves, star anise, white pepper and coriander seeds – into a powder. It emits a powerful aroma dominated by nutmeg. “I’ll cut through the strong dry spices later by adding red nam jim, which is sour and a little bit hot,” Bee says. She then pounds long dry chillies, garlic and red onion into a paste, puts a small ladle of oil into a saucepan and waits for a hint of bubbles. She drops the paste in and lowers the heat, stirring vigorously. “I can tell it’s ready when it loses that raw smell,” she says. The chef adds the ground dry spices and turmeric powder, then palm sugar and ground dried chilli. As the mix turns from black to brown, she says, “You want to get 92 | DECEM BER 2014
the colour right with palm sugar.” Next, the coconut milk goes in, along with salt and fish sauce. The aroma now is in the spectrum of Indian curries. “The original recipe would have been eaten with chicken and served with roti,” says Bee. She takes the duck, which has already been roasted, shreds it, and adds it to another pan of oil. The heat is higher now, which gives the meat a crispier texture. After a couple of minutes, she takes it out and dries it. “To the original recipe, we’ve added fresh herbs – three types of coriander – pak chee Thai, Lao and Farang” she explains, combining them with the duck in a mixing bowl, along with sliced small red onions and crushed peanuts. She has a quick taste and then adds the promised squirt of red nam jim from a squeezy bottle. To serve, she puts four rice crackers onto a plate and spoons a mound of the mix onto each. Eating it, there’s a super rich, complex blend of flavours with great balance. The sweetness of palm sugar and coconut, the creeping chilli and fat of the duck, hints of citrus. The flavour changes as each mouthful lingers on the palate. It’s a beautiful dish that can now be enjoyed in two branches of Paste.
PASTE
[MAP 3/P6]
120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2392 4313 | pastebangkok.com Wed-Sun noon-2.30pm; Tue-Sun 6pm-late
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street eats
FOOD & DRIN K
eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
THE NORTHERN CUISINE OF MADAME MUSUR
K
haosan Road is many things – a backpacker’s paradise, a fantastic shopping spot for hippy apparel, a 24-hour beer-fueled party. But it is not a place normally associated with delightful food. However, scratch beneath the surface. Then scratch again. Then grab a shovel and dig deeper and deeper, beneath all the culinary dreck, and finally you might unearth a jewel such as Madame Musur’s place. This cozy restaurant (and super-chill bar) serving northern Thai cuisine is hidden in Soi Rambutri, off Khaosan Road, just behind Wat Chanasongkram. It’s a little oasis that makes me feel like sitting down, eating a tasty meal and having a good, soulful conversation without the need to shout. It also has great music and an outdoor terrace where you can lounge on big pillows. Nong, the owner, is originally from the north. She worked in the hospitality business for more than a decade but a couple of years ago she branched out, wanting to create something of her own. Madame Musur serves the most well-known dishes from the north, including khaosoy (noodles in northern coconut milk curry), but hers is truly different because the paste is made from scratch. I promise you, it won’t simply be diluted coconut curry, the stuff you often get from places pretending to serve northern Thai cuisine. Rather, it is an intense, aromatic and harmonious curry soup! Beyond khaosoy, I like Madame Musur‘s northern namprik num dip (a paste made from young green peppers) and namprik oong (a tomato paste). The secret to making these dips fresh every day is highquality ingredients and an understanding of the taste combinations involved. At Madame Musur they are served with generous portions of fresh local herbs and vegetables. The other stand-out dish here is cap moo, or deepfried pork fat. I know… it sounds so unhealthy but it tastes so good! The Sai aou, or northern sausage, is also great – the sausage stuffing has a unique character with specific bangkok101.com
northern herbs and chilli. It is well-balanced – not too spicy or powerful. At Madame Musur, I am never disappointed. It is a great place to catch-up over a prolonged evening of tasty food enjoyed in good company.
MADAME MUSUR Soi Rambutri, behind wat Chanasongkram. Open daily until 2am (kitchen closes around midnight).
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listings
Taihei
YTSB
JAPANESE
YTSB [MAP 8/J12]
TAIHEI [MAP 5/L8] 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm From the moment the platter of sashimi moriawase (B520; left, second-bottom) comes out, prime seafood cuts delicately arranged, it’s clear that there is a real commitment to quality. The presentation is also immaculate, offering a swathe of bright colours – bright pinks and flashes of silver-grey. It’s beautiful food. And it tastes pretty damn fine as well, the tuna, in particular, soft and slightly salty on its own, mild enough to work in the mouth alongside a dab of soy and wasabi. Another highlight is the beef teriyaki (B580), sourced from Australia and broiled, before coming out served with seasonal greens, again bursting with colour. If you’re not super-keen to fill up on red meat, try the gindara miso (B600; left, second top). It’s a cod fish cooked to perfection, kissed on each side just long enough to turn the skin crispy, before being served with tangy miso seasoning. There’s also a selection of tempura to choose from, whether you fancy prawns (B450), pork skewers (B380) or chicken karage (B350).
3F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd | 0 2309 3939 | facebook.com/YTSB.BKK | 6pm-11pm The odd-looking name is an abbreviation for Yellow Tail Sushi Bar, which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. The fish has different names according to size and stage but is known as yellowtail once it reaches maturity and is ready to eat. Upon a first glance, the restaurant is decked out with chic Japanese-themed décor rather than authentic Japanese style. The soft yellow lighting creates a low-key ambience likely to draw you in. It’s also on the fourth floor of VIE Hotel – so before you settle in, head downstairs to the outdoor terrace on the third floor, where you can still order food and drinks from the well-stocked bar. The name of the venue might suggest that the menu is all about yellowtail, but there’s real variety. If you’re in a group, it’s hard to ignore the set of appetisers (B1180) composed of dried stingray fin, dried shrimps, fried salmon and salted ginkgo. It arrives on a long bamboo platter, emphasizing YTSB’s fusion influences, as opposed to taking the strictly traditional route. If you want to branch out beyond the raw fish, there are alternatives with wagyu and chicken. Maybe try the
Zuma kagoshimawagyu namban yaki (B2500), cooked with Japanese seasoning and topped with sesame, mushroom, and asparagus. Each bite is tender, and the Japanese seasoning is exquisite. But the spotlight still comes back to the sashimi, especially the aburi Hamachi jalapeno, which includes five pieces for B600.
ZUMA [MAP 4/G6] Ground Fl, 159 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2252 4707 zumarestaurant.com | 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm The style and presentation of the dishes is unmistakably contemporary – authentic but not traditional – exemplified by a particularly snazzy range of cocktails, including the Rubabu (B295), which blends sake and vodka with fresh passionfruit. But, of course, it’s the food that really matters. Dishes come out in no precise order and can be shared or eaten individually. The technique required to execute the smaller dishes is truly impressive and, because of Zuma’s three open kitchens, customers can watch the chefs at work. There are several highlights, though, including the sliced yellowtail served with green chilli relish, ponzu and pickled garlic (B410) – the effect is stunning, a mouthful of the most delicately textured seafood packed with
Ma ma makes i e k i l t s t!! Ju Authentic Italian home cooking on Thong Lor Set lunch starts@290B
387/15 Sukhumvit 55, Thong Lor soi 21 Tel: 02 185 2199
www.solemiobkk.com 94 | DECEM BER 2014
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ITALIAN SCALINI [MAP 3/N12]
Chez Pape light but still intense flavour. No less impressive are the plates of nigiri sushi and selected sashimi (B1100) – Japanese food has become so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget how it’s meant to taste when it’s done with absolute precision and attention to detail.
FRENCH CHEZ PAPE [MAP 3/F9] 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2255 2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed but that’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine. Rather, there are enough surprises, both in terms of the combinations and the presentation to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. Starting with the appetisers, there is a ceviche of barracuda in chilli and citrus (B160) or the tartare of avocado, crab and green apple (above right, B200), both hitting the right notes: light, fresh, seafood flavours offset with the right amount of seasonings. But perhaps it’s in the more provincial dishes that Chez Pape really declares its hand, offering a port-marinated foie gras terrine, served with mango marmalade (B285). The early courses are certainly impressive enough to build expectation for the mains without being so concept-heavy that they create confusion. And, indeed, the big plates tell you everything you need to know about Chez Pape’s ambitions. The pan-seared beef flank, an exquisite cut of meat, comes with goat-cheese ravioli and garnished with virgin sauce (B450) – it’s a deeply satisfying combination. Twisting the formula a little further is the duck breast served with apples, spinach and Japanese citrus dressing (B510). It’s a fine example of Chez’s Pape’s commitment to doing the inimitably French things well while borrowing and augmented with inspired touches from elsewhere. bangkok101.com
Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com/en | Noon2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Bangkok is, naturally enough, best known for its Thai food, with other Asian cuisines not far behind. But these days, European food – French or Italian – is booming, particularly when served with a twist. So it is with Scalini – it’s ostensibly a modern Italian place but it riffs on a New York connection, while borrowing bits and pieces from the international table. So, in short, it’s Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. It’s apparent from the antipastis, which include a tuna and salmon tartar, with lemon aioli, mango salad and seared ciabatta (B450) – retaining a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced combinations. Other dishes stay closer to home, such as the Wagyu beef carpaccio, with porcini salsa, rocket and parmesan, served with white truffle vinaigrette (B570). The rich, satisfying taste of Italian food has an extra layer of complexity. And it’s on show again with the Hokkaido scallops, served here with celery, red onion, tomatoes, basil and cherry vinaigrette (B480). These adventurously designed openers set the bar high so it’s perversely pleasing that the pastas tack slightly more toward the traditional, although the pumpkin and sage ravioli (B380) still has a surprisingly delicate flavour and the duck ragout with black truffle and tonino pecorino (B600) is one of the absolute stand-outs, moist without becoming soupy, retaining a kick without being overbearing. So far, this balancing act has worked a treat – the concept is clear but it’s still all about the food. It proves slightly harder to adapt this approach to the mains, though.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA [MAP 3/P8] The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm Nestled in a smallish mall on soi 49, La Bottega di Luca is an immediately welcoming space, effortlessly combining indoor-outdoor seating and cultivating a relaxed vibe that makes it a neighbourhood favourite with real panache. Luca, who runs the show, updates the parts of the menu regularly and orders produce in from Italy fortnightly. The antipasti start at B290 and the grilledscamorza (B390) – that’s DECEM BER 2014 | 95
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listings
Blue Sky smoked mozzarella – wrapped in speck ham with mushrooms and red wine sauce is a delight. It’s a simple idea but the evident care taken in preparation elevates this to a gorgeous starter, reminding diners just how much they’ve come to miss cheese in Bangkok. And that sauce – you’ll be tempted to lick the plate clean. There’s a sizeable menu and it can be tricky to know which direction to take. The most eye-catching salad is the seafood combination (B220) with steamed prawns, baby squid, mussels and clams seasonedwith garlic. But who are we kidding? We’rehere for the rustic, filling, flavoursome Italiancooking,delivered with real passion. That means it’s hard to go past the homemade pasta that gets freshly made every day – the dishes are reasonably priced at B240-490, although you’ll be shelling out B1790 if you go for the lobster.
INTERNATIONAL BLUE SKY [MAP 4/F3] 24F Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd | 0 2541 1234 centarahotelsresorts.com | 6pm-2am Rooftop bars and restaurants in central
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Bangkok have surged in popularity in recent years, popping up everywhere from Sukhumvit to Sathorn to Silom. Now Ladprao has a name in the mix, with the ultra-hip Blue Sky located at Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao. It offers a whole new perspective of the city’s glittering skyline, with a standout menu featuring high-quality Asian and Western dishes. Menu favourites include starters such as stir-fried Burgundy snails (B350) and Cromesquis scallops (B450), while steamed snow fish (B980) is one of the standout mains dishes. For dessert, try the Mille-feuille (B180 or B320, depending on size). It is faithful to its French providence, served with light bourbon vanilla cream and raspberry sauce. The fare is overseen by Chef Eric Berrigaud, who hails from France but has been in Thailand for 12 years now. The atmosphere at Blue Sky allows for relaxed and informal dining and the views over Chatuchak Park are fantastic. Watching the busy roadways below with their long traffic jams gives visitors a sense of being away from the stress of work. The restaurant succeeds at giving patrons a feeling of freedom and untroubled indulgence.
CREPES & CO [MAP 8/L14] 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours
Crepes & Co and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options – try the eggplant caviar – but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following. Or any time, for that matter. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Josephine (B170), which is a straightforward combination of sugar and lemon zest. But if you’ve got a major sweet tooth, you’llprobably gravitate toward the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging invitingly with vanilla ice cream and lathered in a rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you havea real craving. Going down the list reveals some eye-popping desserts – try the Crepe Mango Coconut (B195), which somehow works despite the unusual pairing of freshmango and coconut slices, or the Coupe de Fraises (B170), with strawberry, vanilla and chantilly. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B290), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sautee apple and rum raisin ice cream. And then they set that baby on fire.
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listings PARK SOCIETY [MAP 8/K16] Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | 5pm-1am (bar), 6pm-10pm (restaurant) A large walk-in kitchen as you enter has a generous chef’s table stacked with cured meats, where you can choose to dine. It leads to a curiously shaped dining space with those beautiful views through full wall windows. The walls themselves and ceiling are rhomboid mirrored panels reflecting Victorian style lamps, hexagonal marble dining tables and waiters in Christian Lacroix-designed, Thai-influenced uniforms, complete with cummerbunds, knee socks and traditional wide-thighed pantaloons. The whole has an almost art deco angularity, the effect pleasantly disorienting, like a fairground hall of mirrors. The modern international menu changes daily according to available produce and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items like oysters (six for B700), Hokkaido scallops (B900) and Aran Valley caviar (B4,999 for 30g). Mains are well presented, the off-kilter square plates adorned with smears and blobs of colourful purée are an arty backdrop for dishes like pigeon with gnocchi and baby vegetables (B1400/half, B2600/ whole). The well-chosen wine list, with most bottles between B2000 and B4000, has 12 wines and four sparkling by the glass. To finish, there’s a choice of three desserts or cheese plates.
INDIAN INDUS [MAP 3/P12] 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | 0 2258 4900 indusbangkok.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm Indian restaurants sometimes run the risk of being slightly same-same – from the decor to the flavours, there seems to be a formula that works and plenty of places are happy to march to the same tune. The most gratifying thing about Indus is that it makes certain well-judged departures – there’s a decidedly modern, well-lit interior withsweeping views of a garden dining area, as well as a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect from Indian food while dialling down the stodge and oiliness that sometimes accompany it. Furthermore, most Indian restaurants hew rigidly to northern-style food and although those notes are present in most of Indus’s curries, they all riff more broadly on Indian-Chinese – or Himalayan – combinations.All in all, it’s bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRIN K
quite an ambitious venture inmodern Indian cuisine. Still, it begins traditionally enough, with a tandoori platter, including a creamy broccoli (B190), chicken in yoghurt and Shahi Jeera (B320) and tiger prawns in Kashmiri chilli paste, garlic, ginger and coriander. It comes out with that slightly charred goodness that is the hallmark of Tandoori, with that smokey goodness that, done well, heightens rather than overwhelms other flavours. Among the curries, the old favourites are also the stand-outs. If there’s a signature dish, though, it’s the raan. It’s part of an inspired selection of kebabs and requires 24 hours’ advance notice. But it’s well worth the wait.
RANG MAHAL
[MAP 3/K11]
26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The name means ‘palace of colours’ and there is definitely a courtly air about it all, down to the traditional Indian band whose lilting music fills the air. Equally, while Indian cuisine routinely delivers powerful flavours,the refined, almost delicate food served at Rang Mahal is a rarity. Among the appetisers, the papri chaat (B175) and Punjabi samosa (B190) are relatively straightforward but the well-judged lightness and the fact the doughiness is notoverdone mean these bite-sized dishes whet the appetite. Proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs come out. The tandoori prawn (B295 per piece, main) is smoked to perfection in Indian spices, while the murgh malai (B425)combines chicken and cream cheese for an extra kick. The house specialty, though, is the raan-e-khyber (B950 for half, B1595 for whole) – a leg of lamb marinated in rum, herbs and spices before being barbecued. It’s an impressive dish, rustic in appearance but perfectly executed, the chunks of lamb peeling effortlessly from the bone, sweet and smokey at the same time. The curries are equally successful in delivering a heightened version of familiar dishes. The Goan fish curry (B495) combines a lightly sautéed fish seasoned with a fragrant mix of onions, garlic and spices, cooked in a sauce of tomatoes and coconut gravy, the flavours deftly balanced against each other. In the kashmiri rogan josh (B525, top left), the mutton is irresistibly tender, more casserole than curry, a spectacular rendition of one of the most familiar staples. DECEM BER 2014 | 97
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Blue Elephant
THAI BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL [MAP 5/D7] 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm The Blue Elephant brand has been wildly successful since it was first established in 1980, introducing Thai food to the world through restaurants dotted all over the place, including those in London, Paris and Dubai. And, of course, there’s one in Bangkok, just under Surasak BTS in a gorgeous oldfashioned Thai building. When you take in the traditional interior, it’s no surprise that Blue Elephant’s food is most confidently presented when they are hewing toward cuisine that, as categorized on their menu, derives from “Thai cooking of the past”. The massaman
lamb (B580) is immaculately presented with a sweet, fragrant sauce, while the tom jiew kai (B240) has all the restorative powers of chicken soup, with a deliciously peppery aftertaste. However, Blue Elephant is not content to let the grass grow under them and that’s why, perhaps sensing that Thai food has increasingly been adapted into a more modern, international cuisine, there is also a section of the menu for Thai food “of today” and “of tomorrow”. There are undoubtedly some interesting combinations, as Blue Elephant expands its playbook beyond the more familiar staples. There’s the grilled spare ribs with honey (B380) and a black chicken green curry (B680), using rare black chicken in coconut milk, with sweet basil and pea aubergines. For those interested in trying buffalo, there’s also a starter-sized satay set of Buffalo fillets from Ubon Ratchatanee (B320).
EAT [MAP 4/F4] 2nd Floor, Groove@CentralWorld | 0 2251 1230 | facebook.com/eatallthai | 10am-10pm The approach to Thai food at EAT, an acronym of Eat All Thai, is the use of ingredients from the region from which a dish emanates. The Goong Mae Nam Pao, grilled river prawns (prices
Eat vary according to size), is a good example. The massive prawns come from Ayutthaya and the dish is a local specialty. One of the most popular dishes is the Khai Yok Song (B350), EAT’s special omelette made with chunks of seafood, including massive pieces of crab from Surat Thani. If you are tired of greasy omelettes with a meagre selection of ingredients dished up at many Thai restaurants, you will love this offering. Another popular dish is the Hoi Joh Jew (B230), homemade crispy crab rolls. The service and prices at EAT also deserve special mention. The servers are friendly, knowledgeable and obviously enjoy working at the restaurant, a remarkable achievement considering the short time EAT has been in existence. And the prices? They are probably the least expensive of any of the outlets at Groove.
Live it like you dream it
8 MAGNIFICENT HOTELS 8 MAGNIFICENT HOTELS 25 SUPERB RESTAURANTS 25 SUPERB RESTAURANTS 1 MAJESTIC 1 MAJESTIC RIVER RIVER
Savour a delicious array of 3-course meals FOR JUST B999 NETT at the Savour a delicious array of 3-course meals FOR JUST B999 NETT at the 25 restaurants participating in the Riverside Dining Experience 25 restaurants participating in the Riverside Dining Experience
12 – 21 December 2014 12 – 21 December 2014
ANGELINI • Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok ANGELINI • Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok BRIO • Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa BRIO • Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa COCONUT TERRACE • Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside COCONUT TERRACE • Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside FEAST • Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers FEAST • Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers FLOW • Millennium Hilton Bangkok FLOW • Millennium Hilton Bangkok GIORGIO’S • Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers GIORGIO’S • Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers MAYA • Millennium Hilton Bangkok MAYA • Millennium Hilton Bangkok MEI JIANG • The Peninsula Bangkok MEI JIANG • The Peninsula Bangkok NEXT2 • Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok NEXT2 • Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok PIER 28 • Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok PIER 28 • Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok PRIME • Millennium Hilton Bangkok PRIME • Millennium Hilton Bangkok RIVER BARGE RESTAURANT • Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok RIVER BARGE RESTAURANT • Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok RIVER CAFE & TERRACE • The Peninsula Bangkok RIVER CAFE & TERRACE • The Peninsula Bangkok
SALA RIM NAAM • Mandarin Oriental Bangkok SALA RIM NAAM • Mandarin Oriental Bangkok SALATHIP • Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok SALATHIP • Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok SAMBAL BAR & GRILL • Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers SAMBAL BAR & GRILL • Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers SHANG PALACE • Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok SHANG PALACE • Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok SILVER WAVES • Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok SILVER WAVES • Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok THE TERRACE@72 • Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside THE TERRACE@72 • Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside THARA THONG • Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers THARA THONG • Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers THE CHINA HOUSE • Mandarin Oriental Bangkok THE CHINA HOUSE • Mandarin Oriental Bangkok THE LOBBY • The Peninsula Bangkok THE LOBBY • The Peninsula Bangkok THIPTARA • The Peninsula Bangkok THIPTARA • The Peninsula Bangkok TRADER VIC’S • Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa TRADER VIC’S • Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa YUAN • Millennium Hilton Bangkok YUAN • Millennium Hilton Bangkok
B1500 » B999 NETT PER PERSON B1500 » B999 NETT PER PERSON
bangkokriverexperience.com/restaurantweek bangkokriverexperience.com/restaurantweek Riverside Dining Experience Riverside Dining Experience
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riversidediningexperience riversidediningexperience
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NIGHTLIFE SMOOTH JAZZ
High above the city, on the 61st floor at Vertigo and Moon Bar (21/100 Banyan Tree Hotel, South Sathon Rd, 0 2679 1200), the 9th edition of Jazz under the Stars once again delivers unforgettable evenings of smooth jazz and openair romance. From November 28 to December 7, some of the best local and international jazz musicians, including Steve Cannon and Steve Lowry, will play to the backdrop of the Bangkok skyline. Entry is B699 nett per person, including one drink.
DANCE INTO THE NEW YEAR
Count down to 2015 in style from the 32nd floor balcony at the L’Appart “DecaDANCE” Party (Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd, 02 126 9999). The set menu for al fresco dining is B9500++ per person and includes a bottle of Moët Chandon champagne for every two guests. For indoor dining, the price comes in at B7500++ per person and also includes a bottle of bubbly. The party kicks off at 7 pm on December 31 and lasts until 1 am, long after the ball has dropped. (Minimum spend of B7000++ per person if only enjoying drinks on the balcony.)
WINE AND DINE
very night throughout December, enjoy two hours of free flow red and white E wine for B999++ at Short Cuts Deck (Level G, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, Rama IV Rd, 02 632 9000). Whether hitting the town after work or meeting up for an appetiser to your Saturday night, head to the outside terrace at Short Cuts Deck between 5pm and midnight for free flow wine, the relaxed vibe, or maybe a plate of fish and chips.
COOL SEASON, COLD BEER
Kick off your cool season with delicious draft beer at Dee Lounge and Carlsberg Beer Garden (Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit, 566 Ploenchit Rd, 02 305 6000). Every night from November 28 onward, meet up at this indoor-outdoor lounge and beer garden for great deals on Carlsberg and other drinks, a full menu of delicious food, and live music from the CH3 band, which plays six nights a week.
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SWAY - The joys of craft beer and chicken wings -
T
he gastro bar formula – that rare alchemy between a venue that is sufficiently fun and relaxed to attract drinkers while also delivering a menu well-rounded enough to warrant sticking around for dinner – is much in evidence at Sway. The owners clearly take their craft beers seriously, while the Americana-themed menu has a few cult favourites, particularly the signature chicken wings. Located in the smart Thong Lor alcove that also houses Demo and Funky Villa, Sway attracts a good mix of expats and locals. The most novel element on show here is the self-service ‘beer wall’ – simply identify the craft beer that takes your fancy and pour your own. There are some interesting brews, offering a well-balanced selection that gives plenty of space to the thriving home brew scene on the west coast of the USA. The food is suitably rustic – any place that includes a beer wall also needs to serve some tasty ‘dude food’. The poutine is a Canadian classic, reflecting the nationality of the owners, and is a messy delight; fries liberally seasoned with a choice of toppings, whether it s gravy and cheese, jalapeños, pork belly or grilled chicken. If you re planning on a long night of drinking, these punchy poutines (B190210) are sure to appeal. The main attraction on the menu, though, is the vast array of chicken wings (six for B150, 12 for B280). The 102 | DECEM BER 2014
flavours on offer go well beyond what you’re likely to find at any run-of-the-mill barbecue. Start with a bowl of the signature Pok Pok wings seasoned Thai-style with garlic, chilli paste and cilantro, before moving on to the Indian Spice option, which come dusted in curry powder. You’ll have your fingers covered in sauce in no time – it’s messy but delicious. There are plenty more besides – try the Lemon Szechuan, the Dark Chocolate or the Sweet and Spicy Mango. As signature dishes go, these wings definitely warrant a return visit, if only to work one’s way through the many attractive options. Sway tends to be taken over by football fans at the weekends – chicken wings, beer and live sport are a winning combination – but there are also house DJs during the week that create a more demure atmosphere. This flexibility is crucial for any venue trying to strike gastro bar gold and Sway certainly has enough going for it to appeal as a smart, fun watering hole that mixes boutique beers with bold, brassy comfort food.
SWAY
[MAP 3/S6]
Arena 10, Thonglor Soi 10 | 0 2711 6052 swaybkk.com | 6pm-2am
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listings
Ku De Ta
CLUB KU DE TA [MAP 5/G6] 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2108 2000 | kudeta.net 6pm-late Ku De Ta set out to add a new dimension to a night out in Bangkok. To some extent, it follows in the footsteps of Bed Supperclub by providing an upscale club experience for the city’s movers and shakers but it has also carved out its own unique aesthetic that is sure to make it one of Bangkok’s top nightlife destination venues. Undoubtedly, the space is the first part of Ku De Ta’s glittering fit-out that catches the eyes. The main club is
Levels a vast rectangular area with skyscraper ceilings and a long window running down an entire side, affording an exceptional view of Bangkok lit up at night. Another feature is the lighting set-up – a very snazzy, very modern LED ‘chandelier’ hangs over the dance floor, twinkling a variety of different colours in time with the music.
LEVELS [MAP 3/F8] 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 2308 3246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am Of all the venues of Sukhumvit Soi 11, Levels has benefited the most from the closure earlier this year of Bed Supperclub. Great swathes of that
Mixx Discotheque clientele now overflow to the other side of the soi, making Levels one of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok, on any night of the week. At many popular clubs in Bangkok, the crowd quickly finds a familiar groove, attracting one particular kind of revellers that old hands can identify fairly quickly – whether that’s the tourists passing through on the way to the beach or the slightly more cluedup locals returning to a favourite haunt. At Levels, though, it’s much harder to categorise – there’s a welcome mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of Levels’ buzzy atmosphere.
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Heaven
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd | mixx-discotheque.com | B350 | 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chanceto party until nearly sunrise.
BAR WITH THE VIEW HEAVEN [MAP 4/F4] 20F Zen@Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am It’s heavily dependent on the weather as the design offers precious little
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Moon Bar protection but on a warm Bangkok night, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails (all B280-B320) right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction – slightly cheesey name but we’ll forgive it because it tastes good – combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear puree. It’s super fruity but apple liqueur is one of the more versatile, underused ingredients in cocktails and it sets off the others in a way that’s refreshing but still carries a kick.
MOON BAR [MAP 5/K8] 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning
Octave 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfectspot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.
OCTAVE [MAP 3/S10] 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back some of Octave’s punchy, refreshing cocktails. The Thai Mojito (B320) starts things off in a way that’s familiar enough but well-executed, combining the standards of white rum, basil and lime with spicy mango, adding a zingy twist to the established mojito formula. More innovative still is the Bloom
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DISCOVER YOUR VERY OWN HEAVENLY HIDEAWAY
UNPACK, UNWIND & INDULGE Stay in our private Villas set among the fragrant gardens with your very own whirlpool, terrace, spacious living area and bedroom. Rest your head on our super comfy Renaissance beds for a dreamy nights sleep and prepare for a world of wonderfully new discoveries in and around our resort...
TASTE, SIP, TRY & DO Looking for fresh seafood that’s just to die for? Perhaps a cocktail that really hits the spot? Or maybe you just want to lie out in the sun. R Place has it all. Dine in a private beach sala with your very own butler, with bay-to-table cuisine. Take a mountain bike ride out into the local countryside and watch the sunset from our private beach with a drink in hand. It’s your heavenly hideaway.
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listings
Red Sky Over The Roof (B320), which fuses Red Berry Tea-flavoured vodka with fresh mint leaves and elderflower syrup. It might seem a little flowery but the overall effect is a seriously drinkable concoction that cuts right through the humidity.
RED SKY [MAP 4/F3] 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelresorts.com 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slow-cooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not cheap, but the daily happy hours (buy one get one drink on
The Speakeasy selected wine, beer and cocktails from 5pm-7pm).
HOTEL BAR & CLUB THE SPEAKEASY [MAP 3/B13] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices; spirits (from B270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails
Spasso (from B 290) include home-made vodka infusions.
SPASSO [MAP 8/L13] Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm- 2.30am There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The layout is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoe-shaped bars. It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor. Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits.
SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit soi 24 (Kasame), Sukhumvit Rd., Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 THAILAND Tel. 02 661 1252-9, 02 259 6580-1 Fax. 02 261 2073 Email. globalmarketing@seafood.co.th
www.seafood.co.th
RESERVATION Tel. 02 261 2071-5 108 | DECEM BER 2014
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feature
SHOPPING
Thomas Erber’s
Le Cabinet de Curiosités
Comes to Bangkok - Simply a must for lifestyle and fashion aficionados -
T
he 5th Edition of the renowned Le Cabinet de Curiosités of Thomas Erber has made its debut in the Asian region. The annual exhibition went on display in November at the ultra-new Central Embassy luxury retail facility and SIWILAI Concept Store, which were launched in May of this year. This wonderful collection of all things tasteful will remain on view until 21 December. A renowned journalist, writer and special correspondent in the fields of music and fashion, Thomas Erber has been editor-in-chief of the lifestyle supplement of Le Monde newspaper and a reporter at large for Vogue Homme International. He was also instrumental in the launch of Jalouse and Optimum. His yearly contemporary exhibition, which began in 2010 at Colette in Paris and was followed by events at very prestigious locations in London, Berlin and New York, has continuously grown in terms of awareness and reputation. It is a marker for what is in vogue and an inspiration for ideas prior to the giftgiving season. Le Cabinet de Curiosités of Thomas Erber contains the finest pieces from well-known prestigious contributors from around the world. The fields of fashion, design, high jewellery, art, photography and more are represented. Featured amongst this year’s guest exhibitors are renowned brands such as Paul Smith, Carpenters Gallery, Visvim and Atelier Ruby. The honourable permanent guests in the collection – Maison Kitsuné, Alexandre de Betak, James Heeley, Harumi Klossowska, Marquis de Montesquiou and many more – also participate once again at this year’s bangkok101.com
exhibit. Collaborating and exploring different fields, each guest makes a unique or very limited edition piece especially for the Cabinet de Curiosités de Thomas Erber. Among the international visual artists from the fields of photography, film and art who are taking part at the event in Bangkok are François Rotger, Sonia Sieff, Olivier Amsellem, Benoit Peverelli and Elina Kechicheva. A unique crew of remarkable Thai participants including the Thai silk company Jim Thompson, the designer Timo, jewellery brand Parcthai, home décor specialist Lotus Arts de Vivre, and design house P-Tendercool are also contributing with high-end locally-made pieces. In addition to photography, art and design mater classes at SIWILAI at the 5th floor of Central Embassy, special musical arrangements have been made to maintain a special atmosphere during the exhibition. These include a master class by Dj-sound designer Ines Melia. Also, star chefs such as Bertrand Grébaut, Ana Ros and Verginie are providing culinary highlights across the road at Okura Prestige and cooking master classes at SIWILAI during the event. For an entrance to a world of discernment and refined living, visit Le Cabinet de Curiosités of Thomas Erber at Central Embassy. Discover more online at: siwilaistore.com centralembassy.com cdc-te.com DECEM BER 2014 | 111
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unique boutique
Green Thai Product Shop W
e live in a world of immediate gratification and throw-away waste, which is why tree-huggers will love Green Thai Product, an environmentally friendly brand producing creatively designed fashion accessories from recycled materials. The brand, which regularly donates a portion of its profits to causes benefitting needy children and upcountry self-sufficiency initiatives, was founded by Poj Kheawchaaum following his voluntary participation in a check-dam project in Chiang Mai which helped locals to manage water usage and prevent topsoil erosion. “The project helped me to feel very connected to nature and I vowed that from then on, if I ever had my own business, I would run it – and my life – in accordance with eco-friendly principles,” he says. Green Thai Product takes pet food packaging, old rice sacks, plastic sheets, unwanted paper and cardboard, even old rubber inner tubes and transforms them into eye-catching fashion accessories such as stylish shoulder bags, functional shopping bags, snazzy iPhone and iPad cases, attractive purses and wallets, and dapper passport covers and business card holders to name but a few. These handmade products, which range from B85-B5500, are fashioned by the brand’s skillful craftsmen based on the designs of some of Thailand’s most creative young green-at-heart designers. The offerings at Green Thai Product aren’t limited to home-grown items though. Here you will also find eco-
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friendly goodies by brands such as The Remaker, which recycles old Absolute Vodka bottles as pendant lights and discarded clothes as chic home décor items, and Paperista, which offers playful jewellery made from old beads and recycled magazines. This is an outlet where the ‘feel good factor’ runs high because when you make a purchase not only are you getting a funky fashion or home décor product, you are also doing something worthwhile for the environment.
GREEN THAI PRODUCT SHOP [MAP 4/B4] Room 404, 3rd flr, Bangkok Art and Culture Centre | 08 4538 2338, 08 6141 7385 | greenthaiproduct.com | Tue-Sun 11am-8pm
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spotlight tailor
SHOPPING
Rajawongse R
ajawongse, the tailor shop located next to the Landmark Hotel on lower Sukhumvit, is a favourite among members of the diplomatic corps and the armed forces. Here it is possible to create your own design from a wide array of materials and accessories. Traditional to contemporary, dramatic to exotic, classic to original, you pick your preferred style of garment and fabrics and seasoned tailors Jesse and Victor will create it. Says Jesse, “It is our belief that every single customer should be treated like a V.I.P. From formal wear to business suits and sport coats, our motto always holds true: dress like a winner and you’ll be treated like one.”
And at Rajawongse they know all about winners. “We have made clothing for sports stars, leading lights in the world of film, and visiting statesmen – we have even made suits for both President Bush senior and junior,” confides Jesse. Quality then is a watchword at this tailor and to maintain high quality Rajawongse operates its own in-house workshop with over 100 cutters and sewing specialists. These talented artisans work with fabrics sourced from the finest mills in Italy and the UK. “For suits, most of the fabrics we carry have a very high wool count,” says Victor. “In our shirts, which we are noted for, we use only the finest Egyptian cotton and shell buttons and we make sure the fit is superb.” Speaking of which, in terms of fit and adjustment, Rajawongse offers a full after-sales service and is happy to alter garments as the shape of their clients change over the years. Rajawongse usually requires around a week to make a fine fitting suit but if a traveller has limited time, they can arrange the necessary fittings first and then ship the garment via courier at a later date.
RAJAWONGSE
[MAP 3/E10]
130 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2255 3714 dress-for-success.com | Mon-Sat, 10.30am-8pm
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listings stocks over 30 types of button and also offers a monogramming service.
JULY TAILOR [MAP 5/K6]
July Tailor
TAILOR DULY [MAP 3/Q10] 55/2 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2672 2891 | 10am7pm daily | laladuly.co.th Duly recently opened a new boutique at the 2nd floor, Royal Wing of the Siam Kempinski Hotel behind Siam Square. The original stand-alone shop on Sukhumvit Road was also renovated in 2011 to reflect Duly’s pre-eminent position as Bangkok’s leading shirt maker. The real draw here is the made-to-measure service that allows customers to create their own perfect shirt with no limits. Shirt patterns can be contoured to fit, collars picked from 22 different style and cuffs from 10. The store
a Pedigree& Passion for Sartorial Perfection Crafting bespoke apparel for discerning ladies and gentlemen for over 40 years
60/2 SILOM RD., BANGKOK Open Monday-Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-8 p.m. On Silom Road next to the BTS station, opposite Silom Complex.
T: 02 233 9236 F: 02 267 1267
30/6 Saladang Rd | 0 2233 0171 | Mon-Sat 9.30pm-6pm | julytailor.com/en Established by Nui Sae Lui in 1939, today July Tailor is run by his third son, Sompop Louilarpprasert. July Tailor is famous for the tailoring of suits and royal patterns with fine and delicate workmanship. It also prides itself on punctual delivery. This is perhaps why it was selected as a tailor to the Thai royal family. The store also enjoys a fine reputation among highlevel local and international government officials, politicians and businessmen. Use of fine cloths, lining materials and accessories imported from Italy ensures comfort while hand stitching ensures excellent workmanship and fit and the unique bespoke look.
LUCKY ANGEL [MAP 4/M5] 26-26/4 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2650 7577 | MonSat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-8pm Boyce, the principal at Lucky Angel, does a fine job of explaining fabrics, cuts, timetable and prices to customers. He and his wife go out of their way to
Lucky Angel help clients select the best materials for their needs. An 18-year veteran of the business, he takes around 30 measurements when sizing you up for a suit and will constantly ask questions regarding your preferences as he goes about his work. Only opened 3 years ago, the shop already has a loyal clientele and prides itself on its repeat business and comprehensive after-sales service.
NARIN COUTURE [MAP 3/G10] 180 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2251 9237 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-9pm (last fitting at 8pm) | narincouture.com B. Narin of Narin Couture graduated from Chambre Syndicale de la Couture
listings
SHOPPING
Edinburgh, former UN Secretary General Boutros Boutros-Ghali and late Hollywood star Robin Williams. It takes from one to two weeks for Perry’s to make a twopiece suit, which will run to B20000 or more depending on the material selected.
PINKY [MAP 4/L5]
Perry’s Parisienne and spent five years working in Paris before returning home to open his own boutique tailoring service. His background is undoubtedly one of the reasons his suits receive high marks for style. He and his master cutters, many of whom have over 30 years of experience, turn out elegant evening gowns and immaculate suits in top quality fabrics. Some of Narin’s creations have even made it onto the silver screen, being worn by movie stars in Hollywood blockbusters.
PERRY’S [MAP 5/K5] 2/1 Silom Rd | 0 2233 9236, 0 2267 0622 | MonSat 9.30am-8pm | perry.tailor@gmail.com Legendary tailor Perry’s has been going strong for four decades. It is run by genial septuagenarian twin brothers Narong and Phonchai, both of whom are known for their ability to measure and cut ‘by the eye’. They maintain superb quality through their own workshop, where 30 plus artisans use only imported fabrics – the likes of Ermenegildo Zenga, Loro Piana, Dormeuil and Lanificio from Switzerland, Italy and England. Among their more illustrious clients they count the Duke of
Mahatun Plaza Arcade | 888/40 Ploenchit Rd 0 2253 6328 | Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm (Sunday’s by appointment) | pinkytailor.com Established since 1980, at Pinky you will find 3 floors of high-quality fabrics. The shop caters to ladies and gents and offers exceptional tailoring for quality trousers, suits, tuxedos, uniforms, overcoats, skirts and dresses. A specialty here though is shirts, and as the business points out on its website, shirts are a staple part of any person’s wardrobe. From formal dress shirts and business wear through to high fashion and casual, the shirt is the ideal way to express personality, no matter what the occasion. Popular with visiting dignitaries and local diplomats, Pinky also has a loyal repeat clientele.
SODHI [MAP 5/F5] 294/3 Silom Rd | 0 2635 9670 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-8.30pm, (Sunday’s by appointment) sodhi.com Sodhi has been making hand-tailored suits and made-to-measure shirts for discerning gents since 1968. According to principle Peter, it is the inside of a suit that distinguishes its quality – the choice of materials in a hand-made garment determines its wear and appearance, while the construction techniques guarantee fit and style. Sodhi places great
Sodhi emphasis on the use of natural fibres; horse hair, camel hair, and pure cottons and wools. These are used to create modern and timeless styles that make the customer “feel elegant and relaxed and that makes him feel good and look good”.
UNIVERSAL TAILORS [MAP 5/F5] 252/2 Silom Rd | 08 1611 2313 | MonSat 10am to 9pm, Sun 12pm-6pm | universaltailor.com Run by the father-and-son team of Ronnie and Raj Singh, for over 30 years Universal Tailors have produced beautifully made garments hand-crafted to a perfect fit. They have their own in-house tailors, allowing them to offer a truly bespoke experience. Fabrics range from 100% wool to luxury weaves from Italian mills. Suits are constructed using high-end horse hair interlining and canvassing, pure cotton German shoulder pads, Bemberg linings and horn buttons. Shirt fabrics range from 100% cotton of 60/1 ply to 120/2 ply in twill, oxford and poplin weaves. These are double stitched and come with real mother of pearl buttons.
& GENTS CUSTOM TAILORS - LADIES -
LUCKY ANGEL by
BOYCE
Sukhum
26-26/24 soi Ruamrudee (behind All Seasons Place), Ploenchit rd., Lumpini, Patumwan, Bangkok 10330 t. (+66) 2 650 7577 m. (+66) 80 559 2655 boycelama28@hotmail.com
bangkok101.com
Wireles
s Rd
Plaza Athene
vit Rd
soi Ru amru
dee
Ploenchit
All Season Place
Ruamrudee soi 1
Conrad Bangkok
Ruamrudee soi 2
LUCKY ANGEL
Aetas Hotel
DECEM BER 2014 | 115
WELLN ESS
review
Sanctuary Wellness and Spa - Pampered in so many ways -
T
hai massage has earned international recognition and a treatment featuring the country’s traditional massage techniques is often high on the list of things to experience when visiting Thailand. Sanctuary Wellness and Spa at Rembrandt Hotel has several pampering therapies, one of which is a great Traditional Thai Massage (B900/60 min, B1200/90 min) that stretches the muscles and uses pressure to stimulate the energy meridians of the body. It is one of several therapies at the spa designed to alleviate physical tiredness, aches and pains. Many others provide the sense of relaxation and peace that spa-goers look for. The Jet Lag Massage (B2500/90 min) helps to rebalance your body after a long flight and includes a foot mask to soothe swollen legs and feet, and an eye mask to rejuvenate tired skin around the eyes. Other recommendations are the Sport Massage (B1500/60 min, B2000/90 min), the Thai Herbal Compress (B1900/90 min), and the Hot Stone Massage (B2500/90 min). The Oriental Fusion Massage is worth experiencing and is particularly recommended for those who prefer a strong and intense treatment. It features a perfect combination of Eastern and Western massage treatments designed to relieve both body and mind. And the word ‘body’ means just that – every single inch of your tired frame, from your head to your fingertips and toes, gets a good workout. 116 | DECEM BER 2014
In addition to the range of relaxing massages, the spa also offers other pampering treatments such as a Body Polish (B1400/60 min) for which you pick your favorite scrub from a choice of sea salt, Asian herbs, tropical fruits, rice or coffee. A Body wrap is also available (B1900/90 min). Many of these singular treatments are combined in four indulgent spa packages; Sense of Siam (B2500/180 min), Purifying (B4500/210 min), and Balancing Harmony (B4200/180 min) for individual relaxation, and the Romance Journey (B6500/180 min per couple) for couples to enjoy the spa experience together.
SANCTUARY WELLNESS AND SPA
[MAP 3/K11]
4th Fl, Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit 18 | 0 261 7100 rembrandtbkk.com | open daily 9am-10pm
bangkok101.com
WELLN ESS
treatment
Devarana
DEVARANA SPA [MAP 5/L5] Dusit Thani Bangkok 946 Rama IV Rd 0 2636 3596 | devaranaspa.com | $$$
Devarana offers a variety of pampering treatments using a combination of East meets West aromatherapy and massage. Delicate massage oils are organically developed and blended using high quality natural ingredients to enhance relaxation and feelings of wellbeing. The Devarana Signature Massage (B3200++/1 hr 30 mins; B3900++/2 hrs) is a unique therapy that focuses on muscle relief and balancing the body’s energy pathways through a combination of Ayurvedic, Shiatsu and Swedish massage. The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience (B5000++/2 hrs 30 mins) is also highly recommended. It features a Devarana body scrub and massage and ends with a restorative soak in a bath infused with fresh pink lotus and champaca petals. Alternatively, if you’re pushed for time, try the Halo-Halo body wrap and facial scrub (B2100++/1 hr).
LAVANA [MAP 3 / F 7] 4 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | 0 2229 4510 9am-11.30pm | $$$
Lavana does its treatments right. Spa options are refreshingly clear-cut, and
Lavana
Yunomori primarily focused on massage. Scrubs and facials are also available, along with the unusual and intriguing Shirodhara oil treatment, in which warm oil is drizzled along the “third eye” in the forehead and massaged into the head and neck. Those seeking a tidier signature option should choose the herbal ball oil massage – Lavana’s dedicated therapists manage to pack a restful eternity into a well-priced 90 minutes. Masseuses combine long Swedish and sports-massage strokes with very detailed work on problem areas – they take computer-knotted shoulders and other ailments as a matter of personal concern, and banish those tweaks and twinges with wonderfully intense kneading and muscle release work.
YUNOMORI [MAP 3/O9] A Square, Sukhumvit 26 | 0 2259 5778 facebook.com/yunomorionsen | 10.30am12am | $$$
Yunomori isn’t an onsen (a Japanesestyle hot springs) in the strictest, most traditional sense of the word but rather the souped up inner-city version, with other facilities such as spas, restaurants and bars as well as pools to bath in. In the changing rooms, you strip off, lock away your belongings, take a deep
Cenvaree breath and emerge, as naked as a newborn, into the baths (guys bare all, girls can wear disposable underwear). Once happy in your birthday suit, the bath hopping begins. We counted five, from the warm soda bath featuring water infused with CO2 to the near scalding jet bath and main onsen, both of which use spring water sourced from Ranong. Once you’ve soaked until you can soak no more, head out in your slippers and explore Yunomori’s extras.
CENVAREE SPA AT CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRALWORLD [MAP 4/F7] 25F Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd | 0 2769 1234 | spacenvaree.com $$$$
For anyone who has had the pleasure of visiting a high-end spa in Thailand, Cenvaree’s interior will be familiar enough, furnished in dark teak wood and perfumed with hints of jasmine and sandalwood. The selection here is vast. Try the evocatively named Salt Pot Muscles Melter (B2800 for 90 mins), designed to flush all traces of tension from a tired frame. The Thai Harmony Four Hands Massage (B3000 for 90 mins) involves two expert Thai therapists working in unison to deliver a feeling of intense relaxation. Another alternative is the Shirobhyanga, or Indian Head Massage (B1200 for 60 mins). Often during treatments, after the back and legs and have been kneaded into putty, it’s the light finish on the neck and scalp that is most effective. Here, you have the opportunity to extend that for an entire hour. SPA COSTS $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1000 $$$ :: B1000-B2000 $$$$ :: B2000+
118 | DECEM BER 2014
bangkok101.com
November 22nd− December 24th
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120 | DECEM BER 2014
SIGHTSEEING a Bang Pa-In Summer Palace b The Khao Khiao Open Zoo c The Si Racha Tiger Farm d Pattaya Shooting Park e Nong Nooch Tropical Botanical Garden f Mimosa Pattaya g Kanchanaburi War Cemetery h Bridge over the river Kwai i Erawan National Park j Sai Yok National Park k Ancient Siam l Bueng Chawak Aquarium
TEMPLES 1 Wat Yai Chai Mong Khon 2 Wat Phra Sri Sanphet 3 Wat Mahathat 4 Wat Phuttai Sawan HISTORICAL RUINS 1 Ayutthaya Historical Park 2 Phra Narai Ratchaniwet MARKETS 1 Amphrawa Floating Market 2 Walking Street Pattaya 3 Sam Chuk 100 Years Market
MUSEUMS 1 Teddy Bear Museum 2 The Ripley's believe It or Not Odditorium 3 Art in Paradise 4 Thai Human Imagery Museum 5 Museum of Chong Khaokad ENTERTAINMENT 1 Scuba Dawgs Pattaya 2 Alcazar Cabaret 3 Pattaya Water Park
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DECEM BER 2014 | 121
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122 | DECEM BER 2014
10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit 11 Marriott Executive Sukhumvit Park 12 Grande Centre Point Terminal 21 13 Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 14 Le Fenix 15 Radisson Sukhumvit
ARTS & CULTURE 1 Japan Foundation 2 Koi Art Gallery 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta 5 TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Centre) 6 Nang Kwak 7 WTF 8 The Pikture Gallery
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MALLS 1 Robinsons 2 Terminal 21 3 Emporium MARKETS 4 Sukhumvit
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CLUBS 1 Q Bar 3 Insomnia 10 Glow 24 Demo 26 Levels 27 Funky Villa PUBS 11 The Hanrahans 12 The Pickled Liver 13 The Robin Hood bangkok101.com
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The Royal Oak
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The Iron Fairies Clouds 22 Fat Gut'z 23 Shades of Retro 25 diVino 28 Le Bar de L'Hotel 29 W XYZ 30 Face Bar 31 Marshmallow 32 Oskar Bistro 33 Tuba 34 Sonic 21
NIGHTLIFE 4 Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Octave 19 WTF 17 Alchemist 18 The ChindAsia
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Apoteka Water Library 37 Gossip Bar 38 Nest 39 Above Eleven
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EMBASSIES IN India IR Iran LK Sri Lanka PH Philippines QA Qatar UA Ukraine NO Norway NZ New Zealand BG Bulgaria
DECEM BER 2014 | 123
MAP 4 Siam / Chit Lom
5 Soi 3
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124 | DECEM BER 2014
HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 15 Hotel Muse 16 Okura Prestige 17 Centara Watergate Pavillion 18 Berkeley Hotel Bangkok
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ARTS & CULTURE 1 BACC – Bangkok Art and Culture Centre 2 Tonson Gallery SIGHTSEEING a Jim Thomson House b Museum of Imagery Technology c Madame Tussauds d Queen Savang Vadhana Museum e Siam Ocean World f Ganesha and Trimurti Shrine g Erawan Shrine h Goddess Tubtim Shrine NIGHTLIFE a Hard Rock Cafe b Red Sky Bar
Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar d P&L Club e Café Trio f Hyde & Seek c
MALLS 1 MBK 2 Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen @ CentralWorld 9 Palladium Pratunam 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place 16 Central Embassy
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DECEM BER 2014 | 125
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126 | DECEM BER 2014
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M Y B A N G KO K
M.L. Pawinee SANTISIRI
Award-winning designer, President of the Design & Objects Association and founder of both an interior design services company and a furniture design, manufacture and export business using natural fibres and environmentally-friendly materials, M.L. Pawinee Santisiri is a driving force when it comes to putting young aspiring Thai designers on the international map and a champion of creativity and selfbetterment among rural Thai communities.
When did you realise you wanted a career in interior design? I first developed an interest in design after helping a cousin, who was studying architecture, with some rendering work for one of her projects. I must have been 16 at the time. What makes Thai-designed home décor items unique and how can Thai designers stay competitive? For centuries Thai people have been producing intricate traditional handicraft products. Our artistic nature, coupled with our historical practical skills and our ability to adapt and mix modern design with local art, are what make us unique and competitive. You are a pioneer in using water hyacinth as a creative material. How important is environmentally-friendly manufacturing to you? I like to use materials that negate the use of chemicals. Simply put, chemicals ultimately destroy fibres, wash out colours and end up polluting the environment. That’s very important to me, I don’t like causing problems! Water hyacinth grows in abundance in Thailand and it is a very versatile plant. It seemed logical to use it as a material for arts and crafts and I’m happy to say that many of the products we have designed using water hyacinth have won international awards. 128 | DECEM BER 2014
How can rural communities tap into Thailand’s design potential on a global scale? For Thais to be competitive on global level we have to understand how to design using local materials and local handicraft techniques. This is where the rural communities come in to the picture. They can help contribute their knowledge of local arts and crafts to younger generations. They can also be a great production base. After all, who else is capable of producing local crafts better? It is then up to organisations such as the Design & Objects Association and the Department of International Trade Promotion to promote these handicrafts to a global audience.
Your favourite restaurants & hang-outs in Bangkok in terms of design? I’m not a “hangout” kind of person. I love entertaining friends at home. That said, I enjoy dining at Ruen Urai – great Thai food in a beautiful traditional Thai house.
The best piece of advice you could give an aspiring designer? Learn by doing… your failures will be your teacher and guide.
Where do you take visitors for a quintessential Bangkok experience? The Grand Palace and Art of The Kingdom Museum at Anantatsamakom Throne Hall. My company had the opportunity to work on the design of the museum, which displays pieces by Thai artisans under the patronage of HM the Queen.
How can Thai designers protect their creative and intellectual property both at home and overseas? They should keep all their design documents, no matter how trivial. These can be used to safeguard intellectual property when someone tries to copy their ideas. It is also a good idea to register all your designs – both in Thailand and overseas, if possible.
Where do you go and what do you do to relax and escape professional life? At the weekend we go to Hau Hin or Khao Yai, where we have a vacation home. My husband and I also travel abroad twice a year to remote destinations that are rich in art and culture. I find such trips help to inspire me in my work.
If you could change one thing about Bangkok, what would it be? I’d change two things. I’d move all electrical wiring underground and give all the pavements a facelift. bangkok101.com