FOOD & DRINK | review
Paii
A colonial-style dining venue in the middle of Bangkok’s business district by Morgan JT
O
riginally owned by Luang Sathorn Rajayukta since 1889, the House on Sathorn has been a long-standing landmark amidst the fast-growing modern surroundings. In 2015, W Hotel Bangkok decided to take on the ambitious project to restore the colonial structure with some additions. Today, it plays host to a modern interpretation of a Thai seafood restaurant named ‘Paii’ (meaning to paddle) presenting the best local and imported seafood menu in 60 | JUL/AUG 2019
honour of Luang Sathorn Rajayukta who also created the Sathorn canal. The dinner began with the savoury Yum Hua Plee Nuea Poo (B380)—banana blossom and fresh mud crab generously dressed with delicious and rich Paii chilli jam and lemongrass. It was a great start indeed. Next up was Larb Nhuad Pla Mhuek Yak Yang (B1,200)—an impressive display of a giant piece of Spanish octopus grilled to perfection on charcoal served with sweet, sour and spicy larb salad
dressing and mint leaves; every bite evoked fond memories of the deep blue and the smell of sea breeze. Followed by Khao Pad Ta Lay (B580)—a must-not-miss offering of aromatic fried rice with fresh scallops, squid and tiger prawns that is both familiar yet fulfilling in every bite. Another all-time favourite for many was Kaeng Leuang Nuea Poo Bai Cha Ploo (B850)—fresh blue swimmer crab served ‘in style’ with aromatic and creamy yellow curry with betel leaves. It is equally a feast for the eyes as it is for the taste buds when the wait staff brought out the dish and proceeded to pour the steaming hot curry into the bowl at the table for great effect. Then came an impressive serving of Nuea Yang Suea Rong Hai (B1,200)—crying tiger steak grilled on charcoal; the mediumrare supple meat served with a side of refreshing Thai herb infused dip that rounded the taste in every mouthful. To finish, we turned to the much-coveted dessert; Paii Waffle (B500), a combination of Hong Kong waffle, famous from the previous establishment at the same location but with a twist by the resident chef who craved to create something absolutely memorable. The new creation saw a large piece of Hong Kong waffle filled to the brim with sweet cream mixed with an assortment of sweet and sour fruits and berries topped with a helping of sweet and sour syrup for a beautiful balance.
Paii Modern Thai Seafood Restaurant W Bangkok and The House on Sathorn 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4025 Open daily: 12pm-12am www.thehouseonsathorn.com/paii www.facebook.com/paiibangkok bangkok101.com
