publisher’s letter
O
ne of our abiding passions at Bangkok 101 – along with food and travel and exploring this city – is the art of photography. Each month we dedicate the middle section of the magazine to showcasing a collection of images. This month, our photo feature focuses on helping our readers improve their own work, via an upcoming workshop conducted by esteemed snapper Nic Dunlop. We know people are taking more photos than ever before – we hope our readers’ shots are as engaging as they can possibly be. We also sat down for a chat with Henri Lamy, a young French painter who’s been attracting plenty of attention in Europe and who will be in Bangkok for his upcoming exhibition at Modern Gallery. We’re also excited about the 10th edition of La Fete – they’ve got a stack of performances across different mediums, as well as a Galleries Night incorporating many of Bangkok’s most exciting art spaces. Travel-wise, we’ve been climbing in Tonsai and horsewhispering in Litang. And we’ve been feasting at Vesper, a very snazzy new place in Silom. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks is all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman-media.com.
?
What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
b a ngkok 101 Pa r t n e r s
bangkok101.com
j u n e 2014 | 3
Contributors
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat editor
Tom Sturrock editor-at-large
Joe Cummings associate editor
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, Dr Tom Vitayakul has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer joe cummings was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ , the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.
Pawika Jansamakao art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai
strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Bill Bredesen, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Dave Stamboulis, Keith Mundy contributing photographers
Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon
director business development
Willem Deenik British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
AVAILABLE AT:
bangkok101.com
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.
special projects
Wasin Banjerdtanakul circulation
Pradchya Kanmanee published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 02-286-7821 | F 02-286-7829 info@talisman-media.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
j u n e 2014 | 5
CONTENTS 18
44
40
14
c it y p u l s e
a rt & c u lt u r e
shopping
8 metro beat
48 exhibition highlights
92 new collection:
12 hot plates: vesper
52 interview:
senada
14 out and about:
finding the spark
98 jj gem: mae klong
chef on the move
55 cheat notes
99 unique boutique:
18 best of bangkok:
56 photo feature:
bellino
la fete returns
tricks of the trade
s n a p s h ot s
food & drin k
22 tom’s two satang
64 food & drink news
24 very thai
66 meal deals
25 chronicle of thailand
67 restaurant reviews:
26 joe’s bangkok
luce, moko, hugo,
28 bizarre thailand
el gaucho, genji,
30 temples, historic
hyde & seek
buildings and museums
74 in the kitchen:
w ell n e s s
tim butler
100 spa review:
t r avel
75 eat like nym
mandara spa
34 up country now
76 restaurant listings
38 hotel review
52
92 67
reference
40 up country escape:
n i g h tli f e
102 getting there
the height of adventure
86 nightlife news
104 maps
44 over the border:
88 review: onyx
112 my bangkok:
enjoy the ride
90 nightlife listings
joseph boroski
bangkok 101
june 2014 100 baht
WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS | CITY PULSE Vesper | TRAVEL
WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS
Enjoying The Ride
Employ the tricks of the trade to improve your photographs
| ShoPPIng
on the cover Explore the art of portraiture and the skills required to tell a story through images. Check out p56.
Senada
june 2014 5/19/14 3:23 PM
6 | j u n e 2014
bangkok101.com
A CULINARY STAR There’s a new chef in town and he is working his culinary magic among the stars at Red Sky and Fifty Five at the Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld.
Manning the stoves in the two signature restaurants of Bangkok’s only fully integrated fivestar hotel, convention centre and lifestyle complex is a Frenchman. And Hugo Coudurier is no stranger to working with the stars. After culinary school in Dijon, he worked alongside Jean-Jacques Noguier at the Michelin-starred La Ferme De L’Hospital in Bossey. His journey also took him to the Hotel des Trois Valees in Courcheval, before moving to the three-Michelin star restaurant Guy Savoy Paris as the sous chef. Las Vegas was his next stop as executive chef of Restaurant Guy Savoy at Caesar’s Palace. Before making his way to Southeast Asia, Hugo was in charge of the kitchen at the boutique K108 Hotel in Doha, Qatar His signature additions to the menu at Red Sky are a combination of both classical and contemporary French dishes that are designed to wow the senses. Start of your gastronomic experience with the sublime moreish Black Truffle Artichoke Soup accompanied by a delightful toasted mushroom brioche. Then the delicate flavours that come together perfectly in his elegant Avocado &
Scottish Samoked Salmon Gnocchi served with dill, pickled onions and lemon butter, or the Novia Scotia Lobster “Vol Au Vent”, which offers a burst of light creaminess across the palate. Other standouts include Roasted John Dory in a Pachino tomato stew and topped with Bottarga sauce and a personal favourite, the Poached Bresse Guinea Hen with Truffle & Foie Gras, fragrant Basmati rice and a magnificent velvety Albufera sauce. Showcasing his classical culinary upbringing is a fork tender Wagyu Beef Tenderloin “Rossini” with foie gras, black truffle, wild mushrooms and Madeira sauce, and a another timeless dish, Warm Old-fashioned Apple Tart and a vanilla bourbon ice cream. There is no doubt that this marriage of Hugo’s inspirational menu with the remarkable 300-label wine list straddling both the Old and New Worlds, jaw-dropping panoramic vistas and groovy music from the live jazz band definitely makes Red Sky the only place to impress an out-of-town guest, celebrate the close of a business deal, or even pop that question.
T: +66 (0) 2 100 6255 E: di n i n gc gc w @ c hr. c o . th www.centarahotelsresorts.com
CITY PU LSE
metro beat
by Howard Richardson
ROCK & POP
Taylor Swift Seven-time Grammy winner Taylor Swift extends her world tour with with several dates in Southeast Asia, including at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact. co.th) on June 9. The multi instrumentalist (guitar, banjo, piano) will perform on two stages, featuring many songs from the last album Red, which saw a departure from the strict country music of previous releases. We’re promised she “will change costumes multiple times during the course of the show”. The New York Times calls it “A king-size spectacle”, while Rolling Stone says she’s “a maestro at the top of her or anyone’s game”. Get tickets from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor. com) priced B2000-B6500. Screaming fans will fill Asiatique (Charoen Krung Sois 72-76, tel: 0-2108 4488; asiatiquethailand.com) on June 7, when K-Pop comes to town in the form of JunJin. The singerdancer with Korean boy band Shinhwa is here for the JunJin Thailand Fan Meeting 2014, running from 3pm-5pm. Tickets are B2000-B5000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). Everyone paying top price gets to shake JunJin’s hand and be in a group photo. Memphis May Fire fly in from Dallas for a Bangkok return, rattling the walls of the Rock Pub (Hollywood Street Building, Phaya Thai Rd, 081 666 4359, therockpub-bangkok.com) on June 8. Depending on your ears and tolerance for genres, the vocals, two guitars, bass and drums could be melodic metal, post-hardcore or “southern rock with no reservations”. They’ve just put out their fourth album Unconditional, following The Hollow, MMF and Challenger. Entrance is B1000. 8 | J U N E 2014
The Bootleg Beatles The Bootleg Beatles started in 1979 as the UK cast of the hit Broadway musical Beatlemania when it reached London’s West End. This may make them the world’s longest running Beatles tribute band, but they’re no country club act, having played Glastonbury Festival, the Royal Albert Hall and supported Rod Stewart at Wembley Stadium. Catch them at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (60 Ratchadaphisek Rd, 02 229 3000, qsncc.co.th) on June 16. The show starts at 8pm; tickets are B1000-B5000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). San Francisco four-piece Deerhoof rumble into town with a gig at Harmonica (Ozono, 307 Petchaburi 38/1, 02-2595799, facebook.com/harmonicabkk) on June 17. Usually described as noise pop, but with influences as diverse as electric Congolese, The Rolling Stones and new romanticism, the band currently features Satomi Matsuzaki, John Dieterich, Ed Rodriguez and Greg Saunier. The latest of their 11 albums is Breakup Song, released in 2012. For more info see facebook. com/deerhoof. Support comes from Plastic Section (facebook. com/plasticsection) and Hariguem Zaboy (facebook.com/ hariguemzaboyband). The show starts at 8pm; entry is B1000. Kyary Pamyu, described in her press kit as a “Japanese Pop and Fashion Icon”, arrives at Central Plaza Ladprao (1695 Phaholyothin Rd, 02-541-1234) on June 28 as part of her Pamyu World Tour 2014. The former Harajuku-style fashion model, who first gained widespread attention in Japan because of “her unique outfits and free-spirited remarks”, will feature songs from her two albums, Pamyu Pamyu Revolution and Nanda Collection. The show is at 7.30pm; tickets cost B2800-B4000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, thaiticketmajor.com). There’s more background at kyary. asobisystem.com.
Kyary Pamyu bangkok101.com
metro beat
CITY PU LSE
ART Thai sculptor Utai Nopsiri has a solo exhibition of works crafted in teak, in Capturing Moments at 100 Tonson Gallery (100 Soi Tonson, 02-684-1527, 100tonsongallery.com) until June 15. The eight abstract sculptures are said to reflect the artist’s perspectives “through a lens of eastern philosophy rooted in Buddhism and Taoism”. The gallery opens Thursday to Sunday, 11am-7pm. Admission is free.
BUSINESS
FILM
The Global Investment Summit 2014 sees Larry Edelson, touted as one of the world’s leading commodities advisors, give analysis and forecasts of the world’s major markets at the Siam Kempinski Hotel (991/9 Rama I Rd, Bangkok; 02-1629000, kempinskibangkok.com) on June 26-27. He will also share investing and trading tips and give special attention to the precious metals market. Day two will cover trading and risk management. Edelson says: “I’m at the point in my career where I want to give back [...] If I can help investors in person with what has made me successful, then all my dreams will come true.” Tickets are B20,000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02 262 3456, thaiticketmajor.com).
SHOPPING This month’s ThaiCraft Fair at Jasmine City Building (2 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-204-5885) on June 7, is a good place to stock up on treats like jewellery, fabrics and home furnishings and also support a fair trade organisation that sells products made by village artisans from around the country. Entrance is free. The Amazing Thailand Grand Sale Fair offers potential bargains at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (60 Ratchadaphisek Rd, 02-229-3000, qsncc.co.th) from June 12-15. The organisers predict up to 80 percent discounts on premium-quality brands, including bags, shoes and cosmetics, plus promotions by hotels, resorts and airlines. The stalls are open from 10am-8pm. See amazinggrandsale.com for the full run down. bangkok101.com
The Angels’ Share Twenty movies from 14 EU countries will screen at the European Union Film Festival 2014 in SF World Cinema (CentralWorld, 991 Rama 1 Rd, 02-640-7000, centralworld. co.th) until June 5. A range of genres including comedy, thrillers, action and drama has representations such as the 2014 Oscar winner The Great Beauty (dir Paolo Sorrentino, Italy) and the 2012 Cannes Jury Prize winner The Angels’ Share (Ken Loach, UK). After Bangkok, the festival moves to Chiang Mai (June 13-22) and Khon Kaen (June 27-29). All films are in their original language with English subtitles. Some also have Thai subtitles. Admission is free to all shows, with tickets available at the venues 30 minutes before screening. The programme, with trailers and synopses, is at facebook.com/euinthailand. J U N E 2014 | 9
CITY PU LSE
metro beat
CLASSICAL There’s a Thailand debut for Singaporean pianist Clarence Lee at the Goethe Institut (18/1 Soi Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1, 02-2870942, goethe.de/bangkok) on July 5. His programme, starting at 7.30pm, will include pieces by Ravel, Hadyn and Liszt. Tickets are B500 and B200 for students and children, available from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). Yoshiki, the songwriter and frontman of heavy metallists X Japan, released his latest crossover album Yoshiki Classical last year, and brings his tour of the same name to the Royal Jubilee Hall (Impact, 99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) on June 10. The album has collaborations with Beatles producer Sir George Martin, the London Philharmonic Orchestra, the Tokyo City Philharmonic Orchestra and the Quartet San Francisco. Full details are at facebook.com/ yoshikiofficial and yoshiki.net. Get tickets, priced B3000-B5500, from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). It’s the last chance, at least for a while, to hear Swiss mezzosoprano Liv Lange Rohrer, as she is leaving Bangkok soon for her home town of Lucerne. She’s at Sala Sudasiri
THEATRE The Face, a B-Floor Theatre production written by Adam Eliot and performed by Dujdao Vadhanapakorn Boonyai, Bandit Kaewwanna and Parnrut Kritcharnchai, looks at cause and effect. From a stage at the Pridi Banomyong Institute (Sukhumvit Soi 55, 0867-877-155) on June 5-6, 9-10, 26-27, 29-30, and July 3-4 and 6-7, it asks whether your reactions could “reverberate on and on, until unknowingly and unintentionally you could be connected to a murder”? Tickets are B500. Contact 0891-674039 or bfloortheatre@gmail.com for reservations.
Yoshiki Sobha (158/20 Ladprao 41, Yaek 7-2, 02-541-8662, salasudasirisobha.com), from 4pm on June 12, accompanied by Parvati Mani on piano. Tickets are B500, including free parking and a light meal with drinks. The organisers welcome donations to help the Gift of Life Foundation.
JAZZ & BLUES The rare sight of a jazz band with two bass players will materialise when Neil Stubenhaus takes the stage at The Living Room (Sheraton Grande hotel, 250 Sukhumvit Rd, 02-649-8353, sheratongrandesukhumvit.com) on June 20-21 and 27-28. The American, who will play acoustic bass, has previously provided backbone for acts including Blood Sweat & Tears, Larry Carlton and Al Jarreau. In Bangkok he’s backed by the very tasty Randy Cannon Group, with Cannon on piano, Chris Sweeney on drums and Therdsak Wongvichien on electric bass.
FAIRS & FESTIVALS The Thailand Tourism Festival 2014 will have a raft of holiday ideas packaged around cultural shows, performances and demonstrations of local art, crafts and food. It’s at Challenger 1-3 (Impact, 99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact. co.th) from June 4-8, 10am-9pm.
Hedwig and the Angry Inch Hedwig and the Angry Inch, a musical comedy-drama about a rock and roll band with an East German transgender singer, is at Mongkol Studio (RCA, 0819-916-541, facebook.com/mongkol. rca.studio) from Thursday to Saturday on three consecutive weeks, June 12-14; 19-21 and 26-28. The show, with script by John Cameron Mitchell and music by Stephen Trask, had an OffBroadway premiere in 1998, and has subsequently played around the world, including David Bowie co-producing in Los Angeles. Chanudom Suksatit (Hedwig) and Ratchawin Wongwiriya (Yitzhak) take the leads. The performances run from 8pm-10pm, in English with Thai subtitles; tickets are available at bananabooking.com, priced B1000. See facebook.com/hedwigthai for more info. 10 | J U N E 2014
EXHIBITIONS Beyond Silk at the Museum of Siam (Sanam Chai Rd, 02622-2599, www.ndmi.or.th) until June 29 takes a gander at one Thailand’s best known products. The exhibition explores how various civilisations have used silk through its 4,000year history, and displays silk-related items such as music, cosmetics, home decor, clothes and handicrafts. If you like the sound of spaghetti with Vietnamese sauce, give it a try, along with Caesar’s salad, Isaan sausages and yoghurt, all made with silk powder. The museum is open 10am-6pm Tuesday to Thursday, and 10am-8pm Friday to Sunday. Admission is free. bangkok101.com
CUISINE ART
Discover the Secret Oasis “How can you say that you know Bangkok if you haven’t visited Ruen Urai?” Experience fine Thai culinary art in the elegant ambience and the secret oasis of Ruen Urai. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel: 66 (0) 2266 8268-72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266 8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
CITY PU LSE
hot plates
Vesper by Howard Richardson
T
he Sala Daeng crowd no longer need to trek across town for quality cocktails, following the recent opening of Vesper. It’s run by Choti Leenutaphong, co-owner of Little Beast, and his wife Debby Tang, while partner Luca Appino, of La Bottega di Luca, takes care of the excellent food. To develop the drinks list they worked with the mixologists Fluid Movement, owners of London’s world-ranked Worship Street Whistling Shop bar. In fact, the whole feel of Vesper is not a million miles from Whistling Shop. The large, square, low-ceilinged room has huge windows on to the street, dark woods, slate grey walls, and, next to the long bar, tiny oak-wood kegs containing barrel-aged cocktails. On the opposite wall hang reproductions of French Impressionist highlife paintings and a grid of 19th-century European maps. It’s a very sophisticated vibe, and all the better for an almost Dickensian-pub ambiance. But while Vesper might have the look of a cocktail bar, it has all the ingredients to make it whatever you want. Along with the long, serious drinks list there’s a food menu that’s full of interest, from tapas to pasta, burgers, pizzas and full main courses. In addition, there’s a lunch set (from B380 for two courses). As a change from the classics, we picked pre-dinner custom cocktails, including La Grande Bellezza, with fruity notes of maraschino liqueur and Lillet Blanc playing delightfully with smoked vodka. Cocktails are poured tableside from mini carafes, complete with small parchments of the recipes, should you wish to create them at home. The food arrives in the centre of the table to share, with stand-out items including a mound of moist, elastic burrata cheese with top-quality 24-month aged Parma ham and sundried tomatoes (from B890/250g). Another is black ink chitarra spaghetti topped with briney-fresh sea urchin, which melts into the pasta as you serve (B490). But the star is the brilliant Vesper pizza (B280), with mozzarella and sweet dried figs bouncing off the salty, earthy background flavours of 36-month aged Bellota Iberico ham. On top is a pack of wild rocket. The base is crispy, yet soft and airy, from dough risen for 36 hours using natural yeast. I’d happily eat here just for this dish. End with tiramisu made with aged dark rum, or the super creamy Crema Catalana, which has good body and a delicate glaze (both B290). Wines are mainly Italian and overwhelmingly red (B990-B14200), but there are just two each of reds and whites by the glass, (B240-B280) and they’re not listed, so you need to ask what they are. Vesper is classy but unpretentious, with a great atmosphere, thanks in large part to Choti and Debby as chatty, enthusiastic front-of-house hosts. A terrific place to get charmingly hammered or eat food that’s low on gimmicks high on flavour, it lifts Sala Daeng by several notches.
vesper
[MAP 5/j6]
10/15 Convent Rd | 02-235-2777 | vesperbar.co Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, Mon-Thurs 5.30pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-1am
12 | J U N E 2014
bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 13
CITY PU LSE
out & about
chef on the move Professional kitchens are tough places – so try walking into a new one every week. BY ALEX NAZARUK
I
magine reading a CV that lists 52 different employers in the space of year. From Michelin-starred restaurants to fish and chip shops, to coffee farms in Brazil, to a tea plantation in Darjeeling. The itinerary of a farmer? Brewer? Butcher? Baker? Glancing at the career section, you may well wonder how someone with precious little professional cooking experience could end up with a different food job every week for a year. Yet, believe it or not, this has been the story of my life since June 2013, when I began travelling west around the globe, visiting the world’s greatest culinary destinations to work right alongside some of the planet’s greatest chefs and food producers, all the while chronicling my adventure
14 | J U N E 2014
bangkok101.com
out & about
on my blog foodishboy.com Deep down I always had a burning desire to travel. While my parents, both professional dancers, spent the better part of their youth travelling the globe, until last year I had rarely ventured further afield than your average bourgeois European beach resort. So when I decided to quit my desk job back home in London and take a year out to explore the world, I was finally fulfilling the ambition of a lifetime. Long obsessed by all things culinary, I was intent on using the year to make the transition from amateur food lover to something a little more serious. What I could not anticipate in the beginning were the true dimensions of the project. But after one fateful night down the local pub, a drunken declaration was made to all those who would listen: one year, five continents, 52 food jobs. I arrived in Bangkok 40 jobs into my world food odyssey, after surviving a catalogue of culinary challenges. So far I’ve brewed sake in rural Japan with co-workers who spoke no English (luckily my Japanese was flawless...); cooked a seven-course taster menu in Iceland while the bangkok101.com
CITY PU LSE
head chef enjoyed a night off; and joined a Los Angeles religious cult devoted to organic vegan food. I also distiled in the town of Tequila, went frog-slaughtering in Beijing and cooked on the Orient Express en route to Machu Picchu. But despite all my jobs to date, Thailand presented some of the trip’s steepest challenges, cooking in two of Bangkok’s leading restaurants: David Thompson’s Nahm and Ian Kittichai’s Issaya Siamese Club. My time in Bangkok kicked off in the Issaya pastry kitchen. Thai pop music filled the the air, mingling with the aroma of tempered chocolate, candied sugar and freshly baked financiers. All around me, the pastry girls delicately piped macaroons, sculpted cheesecakes into ladybirds and built tiny cotton trees out of freshly spun candy floss. I stood in due reverence at the sweet delights being assembled in their exquisite beauty. Though the many weeks I’d spent in other pastry sections stood me in good stead with Kittichai’s French patisserie skills, things were set to get a lot more challenging in the hot kitchen. I was amazed at the intricacy of Thai food, the way that complex flavours were married to create dishes that sing J U N E 2014 | 15
CITY PU LSE
out & about
a refrain rich in sour, sweet, salty and spicy notes. Like a lost boy I struggled to assemble the dishes as the orders came pouring in. When the kitchen is in full swing, there is certainly no time to check a notepad scribbled with less than legible directions about ingredients and steps. Perhaps the only saving grace was the content of Issaya’s menu, much of which it inspired by Kittichai’s work in international kitchens. This meant I was able to transfer some skills from my own international experience: China had taught me how to handle a wok, my time in Peru had the Thaistyle ceviche covered, and a week in one of Australia’s finest seafood restaurants meant I could be trusted to deal with a few live lobsters for cooking. I just about made it through service without any major calamities. While Issaya’s reinvention of ‘Thai classics’ via modern techniques gave me some foundational understanding, the following week at Nahm was an altogether alien experience. David Thompson’s emphasis on authentic Thai food meant traditional cooking methods, made all the most challenging given David’s attention to detail. You would assume this would make for a difficult week inside Asia’s best restaurant, but head chef Prin Polsuk and the rest of the team were unbelievably generous in the time they took to explain not only the processes for each dish, but the history and traditions behind them. Above all, the greatest pleasure during my time at Nahm was the number of sample plates passed in my direction to devour on the job. From the umami rich smoked fish 16 | J U N E 2014
innards curry with chicken liver that oozed salty goodness to the wagyu beef with cucumber mint and sour leaf, each dish was unforgettable for its striking distinction and depth of flavour. Thai restaurants in the UK too often serve food with a homogenous taste, drowned in coconut milk and horribly sweetened with excessive amounts of palm sugar. It was a great privilege to work with such a fantastic team and sample a taste of the ‘real’ Thailand. Two weeks is by no means long enough to immerse oneself in this rich and diverse cuisine. But the time constraints of my project have sent me on my way to India, where I’m due to cook in a Sikh temple for 10,000 people before continuing on to Paris to work in the renowned bistro Le Chateaubriand. The brevity of each foodish experience has been by no means easy. If you know how tiring it is to start a new job, imagine starting 52 new jobs in a row. To add to this, there’s all the traveling, writing, planning, and of course finding some time to enjoy some of the places I’m visiting. And then there were the missed flights, robberies, and my fair share of disasters. But when I think about it, the kindness, generosity and hospitality of people around the world who taught me everything I know now make me feel humbled and endlessly grateful. This article was adapted from The Foodish Boy. Follow Alex’s journey working a different food-based job every week for a year at foodishboy.com or tweet him @foodishboy.
bangkok101.com
CHEESE NIGHTS 3 days of challenge
between French & Italian cheeses
LADIES BUBBLES TUESDAY NIGHT Every Tuesday night
For each group of 4 ladies Second bottle of Prosecco at half price!
WORLD CUP AT di Vino Every match day
Special tapas menu’ with 6 items at only 600++ with our new selection of Italian beers Lunch: Every day 11.30 - 14.00 Dinner: Every night 17.00 - 24.00
Penny's Balcony , Thong Lo 16, Sukhumvit 55 Rd., 10110 Bangkok T. 02 7148723 www.divinobkk.com / marketing@divinobkk.com
la fete returns After a decade, this celebration of French
Organisé par l’Ambassade de France en Thaïlande
จัดโดย สถานเอกอัครราชทูตฝรั่งเศสประจำาประเทศไทย
04.06. 2014
06.07. 2014
culture has blossomed into something even more significant.
BY TOM STURROCK
A
festival culturel franco-thaïl andais
lafete-bangkok.com
18 | J U N E 2014
s the 10th edition of La Fete approaches, it’s illuminating to chart the changes undergone by this vibrant Bangkok-based celebration of French culture. In the beginning, it was a committed Francophile’s dream, the emphasis well and truly on flying the tricolour high and proud. Increasingly, though, a spirit of cooperation and cultural exchange has been fostered, to the point where much of La Fete has taken on a Franco-Thai flavour. If local talent doesn’t quite receive equal billing as the French imports, they are, at least, a close second. “In the beginning it was really only French artists and French performers but we’ve tried to change that a little bit,” Jeremy Opritesco, head of the cultural section at Thailand’s French Embassy, explains. bangkok101.com
best of bangkok
CITY PU LSE
Fete de la Musique
A.lter S.essio and Pichet Klunchun
“We’ve listen to the public and other feedback and tried to include as many co-operative projects between Thais and French performers as possible. When it’s not possible – because sometimes it just doesn’t happen – we try to hold masterclasses and events where there can be some participation or that work as a kind of cultural exchange.” There has also, according to Opritesco, been a discernible shift away from the highest of high art to more accessible fare. “We’ve tried to have fewer purely conceptual events,” he says. “French culture has a bit of a reputation for being like that so we’ve tried to adapt and make it more open to more people. If you take the Pockemon Crew, for example, they are one of the best hip hop dance companies in the world. “So it’s very high quality but it is also very spectacular and accessible for everyone.” There are plenty of other highlights at La Fete, taking in dance, visual arts and music. On is the Galleries Night on July 5. Taking inspiration from the kind of late-night cultural fairs that so enrich Paris, several of Bangkok’s most bangkok101.com
Compagnie des Remouleurs
notable contemporary galleries will throw open their doors in the evening, hopefully attracting a wave of new fans. “The Galleries Night will be another big highlight,” Opritesco says. “Last year we had a lot of success with it so we wanted it to do it a second time. “It is a chance for us to show off contemporary art in Bangkok and there will be cocktail bars and concerts at the different galleries to create a nice atmosphere.” So as La Fete celebrates its 10th birthday, it’s clear that it has grown from a cosy celebration of French culture to a more inclusive, cosmopolitan affair. But of course, what would it be without a certain French je ne sais quoi? “The other big change this year is that we are staging half of the shows at the Alliance Francaise,” Opritesco says. “Because we have a fantastic new building and want to show that to people.”
la fete June 4 – july 7 J U N E 2014 | 19
CITY PU LSE
best of bangkok La fete highlights
Pockemon Crew Parisii String Quartet June 4 at Alliance Française Bangkok The Parisii String Quartet, one of the most famous and prestigious string quartets in the world, will offer a large selection of classical music covering several eras and musical styles: Boccherini, Haydn, Schumann, Debussy and Schubert. Fête de la Musique (Music Festival) June 6 at ZEN World (17th floor) For one dazzling evening, La Fête de la Musique brings together Thai bands and the French duo Systaime/ Kantes, an explosive and corrosive VJ and DJ mix, combining electronic music and live video projections. Loss June 11 at Faculty of Arts, Chulalongkorn University The French dance company A.lter S.essio joins the talented and creative Thai choreographer Pichet Klunchun. Loss, first performed as a solo by the Japanese dancer Yum Keiko Takayama, has been fully re-choreographed in co-operation with Pichet Klunchun during a residency. Hi-So Full Moon Party June 12 at Sofitel So Bangkok A new line-up of DJs from Bangkok’s top clubs, including DJ Space Monkey (right), DJ Skinny Mark and percussionist Num T-Bone, will take you on a musical journey. Notte (The Night) June 13 at Chulalongkorn University Magic, dance, juggling, music and video effects are the ingredients for this soothing, hypnotic and poetic show. All aboard for an unreal journey. 20 | J U N E 2014
Hip Hop Battle June 15 at Alliance française Bangkok La Fête’s hip-hop battle is now one of the most awaited cornerstones of the festival, gathering dancers from all around the country to battle in a festive atmosphere. Pockemon Crew June 18 at Aksra Theatre King Power Pockemon Crew’s new dance show is a journey through the cinema of the 1930s and 1940s. Through a succession of sets, sceneries and costumes, we are constantly reminded of cinema’s Golden Age. Science/Fiction: Journey To The Centre Of Life June 22 at TK Park in CentralWorld Mysterious mazes, brilliant gems, obscure caves and encrypted alphabets. Where do these enigmatic images come from? From the core of life itself, observed on a microscopic scale and from the works of the most visionary French writer Jules Verne. Galleries Night July 5 starting at Alliance Française Bangkok The second edition of Galleries Night will take place across several venues. Cocktails and exhibition openings will punctuate an art tour through Bangkok’s emerging creative scene. Borders (Frontières) June 23-24 at Alliance Française Bangkok A result of a two-year co-operation between the French company Les Rémouleurs and Chiang Mai puppet masters, this show combines Thai and French traditions, contemporary creation and interplay of light and shadows. bangkok101.com
The chic design and modern layout at Chili Hip restaurant and Walk bar create an almost surreal ambiance, Enhanced by an innovative cocktail and an Asian Menu. Enjoy your dining on the rooftop at Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok as you take in stunning views of the city in one of Bangkok’s most elite nightlife destinations
T: +66 (0) 2 625 1234 E : cwbrsvngroup@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com centarahotelsresorts mycentara CENTARA WATERGATE PAVILLION HOTEL BANGKOK
I
567 Ratchaprarop Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400 Thailand
The way thais address each other conveys deference and respect
insight
ToTwmo ’Ssatang
S N A P S H OT S
Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21stcentury trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
On addressing
Artwork: Sutee Kunavichayanont, Half Truth, laser cut, 2005
I
have written about how Thais greet each other and how the word Sawasdee came about in a previous column. However, what comes after that can be mind-boggling. How Thais address each other goes beyond names and pronouns. It indicates distinctive hierarchical social structures that have been ingrained in our culture. To address someone in Thai actually shows how we relate to one another. The ways for me to address my family members, friends, the elders, the youngers, my teachers, my boss, my employees, strangers and even monks and royalty come with rules which can weave a web of social relations. In most situations, titles or ranks and names are used. Nai (Mr), Nangsaow (Miss) and Nang (Mrs) are used in formal circumstances and they are followed by first names. Last names mainly appear in written documents and are rarely used in conversation, except for an announcement or in the news. The number of pronouns in Thai language possibly surpasses all other languages, especially when it comes to ‘I’ and ‘you’. Here, a hierarchy is involved – it may start from very rudimentary and rough pairs to more neutral ones for all seasons and to more sophisticated and complicated ones among the masses, the military, the monastics and the majesties. In Latin languages like French, there are two pronouns for ‘you’, which are ‘tu’ for a familiar term and ‘vous’ for a formal term or for plural form. In Thai, pronouns ‘I’ and ‘you’ can identify terms of endearment, engagement or animosity and confirm the differences of the age, gender, and status of both parties. During the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the pronouns were simpler. People either addressed each other by names or pronouns like ‘Ghuu’, ‘Dtuu’, ‘Suu’ and ‘Mhueng’ which are considered rude or impolite in modern society. The more refined pairs of ‘I’ and ‘you’ could have been used from mid-Ayutthaya since the beginning of the Divine King regime. ‘Thann’ – a polite and respectful ‘you’ – would be used to call one another among the courtiers. In a more modern context, ‘Khun’ is a fairly new pronoun, useful for neutral yet polite situations. Semantically, this courtesy title was used to address
bangkok101.com
children born to a noble mother who gave up her title to marry a man of lesser rank, for example Khun Ploy, the eldest daughter of Princess Ubolrattana. It is also informally used to courteously address virtually anyone apart from those who actually hold a title of Mom Rajawongse or higher. ‘Khun Chai’ and ‘Khun Ying’ are pronouns for male or female Mom Rajawongse. It also works as a title or a prefix as in Khun Sutthichai or Khun Nick. Khun seems to transcend age, gender and familiarity as well. I can mostly address clients, acquaintances and even strangers using Khun. Then there are the kinship terms which are widely used in Thailand. ‘Pii’ is an elder sibling, while ‘Nong’ is a younger sibling but are commonly used among friends and contemporaries – or even between patrons and staff members in a noodle shop or corner store. ‘Lhoong’ (elder uncle), ‘Bpaa’ (elder aunt), ‘Naa’ (younger maternal uncle or aunt) and ‘Aa’ (younger paternal uncle or aunt) can be prefixed to names and nicknames once an understanding has been established. However, this will not work in five-star hotels or posh restaurants where status still holds sway when it comes to deference and restraint. Two following examples reveal how familiarity breeds contempt or blossoms among the proletarian. One well-known Thai language professor has said she is often in a situation when she would not use kinship terms, such as with taxi drivers. They often address her with ‘Bpaa’ an older aunt – as in “Where would you like to go, Bpaa?” She scolds them off that she is not their mother’s elder sister and they are not related to each other. ‘Khun’ would be more appropriate. Politicians often start their speech with “Por, Mhae, Pii, Nong, thiirak thanglai”, which means “all dear fathers, mothers, elder and younger siblings”. While not addressing the crowd with “Ladies and gentlemen,” a phrase which will alienate their voters, they want to get closer and sound more familiar with the grassroots. They want to look humble, not official. Speaking Thai can be easy but addressing one another can be a minefield of social tripwires. So make sure you don’t get tongue-tied. J U N E 2014 | 23
S N A P S H OT S
very thai
C
animal contests Bet on buffaloes and beetles, cockerels and fish
ockfighting might have waned like other folk culture, but it spurs nationalism. Legend has it that Prince Naresuan, while a hostage in Pegu in 1679, beat the Burmese viceroy via a cockfight. It portended when, as king, Naresuan reclaimed Ayutthaya’s freedom. Statues of fighting cocks (kai chon) remain an offering at shrines. Many animal contest traditions persist despite being regulated or banned due to cruelty, gambling or being ‘uncivilised’. Cock fancying and fighting fish have dedicated magazines, stag beetle duels embody resurgent northern pride, and muslims duel endangered songbirds in cages. Enthralling to some, repugnant to others, pet pugilism never dies. Still, the aim is usually not to kill, but to see which combatant’s nerve holds. Southerner Thais set bull against bull, not against man, with no spears, sword or ritual death. Horns lock, nostrils snort, hoofs pad the bullring dirt until one simply runs away. Hercules Beetles – kwaang – lock horns on a very different arena – a log of soft wood. They can be trained using their taste for sweet things and a metal whirligig enhances a combat mood sparked by pheremones from the female kept in a niche carved below them in the log. It may take 15 minutes before one kwaang wins or loses by lifting the other or fleeing twice.
> Very Thai
Photos: Phil Cornwel-Smith
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip CornwelSmith | B 995
24 | J U N E 2014
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com
chronicle of thailand
S N A P S H OT S
8 APRIL 1980:
government rations tap water in drought
energy crisis due to oil prices left DRUG thailand in crisis and very thirsty
L
OUS
armed
W
ith severe droughts and high oil prices forcing the country into an energy crisis, the government unveiled a plan to trim power consumption at television stations, bars, sporting events and Chiang Rai Thai fo against drug lord K shopping centres. Those found in breach faced fines of up to 100,000 baht his 200-mule opium or 10 years in jail during the three-month programme. In March 1980, tap water was rationed in several provinces, including Several thous by planes and helic Bangkok, as a result of a serious drought across much of the country. Official stronghold at Ban notices were circulated in all provinces, urging people to economise usage or (SUA). At least 1,00 else face ‘a complete shortfall’ of tap water over ‘unlimited areas’ in April. as fierce Rationing was imposed in Chanthaburi and Trat, and water plants could not fighting fla After Thai and operate or distribute supply during high-tide periods, as sea water pushed into a truce proposal p rivers and canals where the plants were located. Tinsulanond stated Water supplies were also cut during certain hours in a number of districts in narcotics traffickin Bangkok. Low water levels in two main dams in Tak and Uttaradit jeopardised continue its drive a the second rice crop as the continued release of water for agricultural purposes threatened to deplete the dams so seriously they were no longer able todestroyed.” It was of the region’s hero generate electricity, officials warned. headqua By mid-March, the dams were only 10 metres above crisis level andextensive any further halt in hydroelectric generation would lead to Bangkok blackouts,and equipment as In July, Khun officials warned. troops, fought aga On 12 May, power generators at Srinakarind Dam in Kanchanaburi ceased side of Doi Lang m operations because water levels were too low. Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivide eye-witnessaccount of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.
> Chronicle of Thailand
EDM Books | editor-in-chief
21 January Nicholas1982 Grossman | B1,450
O
pagoda
n the dashboard in the taxi last night there was an elaborate multi-layered display with a menagerie of lucky icons. On the lower levels, Thai monk statuettes faced the driver and passengers, and on the top tier there was a Garuda mythological bird figure spreading his golden wings in front of two Buddha images. This setup goes above and beyond your average taxi dashboard altar in Thai taxis. It’s more like a little pagoda.
EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450
Chronicle of Thailand is the s Adulyadej. Beginning on the presents a vivid eye-witness major news events of the las as they unfolded and quirky the news, the book features t illustrations, representing on Thailand ever produced.
still life in moving vehicles
Taxi
> Chronicle of Thailand
Chiang Rai provinc displaced hundred Border Patrol Polic Sa’s new base on constructed 200 b
CiTy vS. COUNTRy This cabby literally wears two hats. He dons a baseball cap when he’s driving his cab and puts on this straw hat when he’s farming. This is not uncommon in Bangkok as many cabbies here come from the countryside to drive a taxi between rice plantings and harvests, or when extra income is desperately needed. I asked the driver of this taxi which job he prefers and he told me that he would much rather do farming than drive in this city full of traffic jams and crazy people. Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, Still Life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-off book, Thai Taxi Talismans, is available at bookstores around town for B995. J U N E 2014 | 25
bangkok101.com bangkok101.com
S N A P S H OT S
highlight
Joean’sgkok B
Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
built for speed
W
hen Mick Jagger and other celebrity or VIP clients visit the Thai capital, they don’t fly commercial airlines – not even first-class is fast enough or private enough. They call MJets, Thailand’s only fully licensed business jet operator. Originally established by the Minor Group in 2006, MJets is based at a small private terminal adjacent to Don Muang’s former international airport. The fleet of five is served by a 200-square-metre executive lounge and business centre for passengers as well as two state-of-the-art 2,600-square-metre hangars for maintenance, repair and overhaul services. In addition to serving its own fleet, MJets has exclusive rights for all private jet ground-handling services at Don Muang. The company also offers a range of business aviation services from aircraft sales and charter-to-ground handling to the general public as well. “The business jet market in Thailand is growing. Several local tycoons and air charter companies are interested in buying more jets or trading up to a bigger aircraft,” says Navdeepak Vaid, assistant to MJets managing director. 26 | J U N E 2014
“Our terminal once belonged to the AOT, and was reserved for VIP government flights and occasional flights serving the royal family,” explains Kulthida Walsh, MJets’ sales and customer services manager. “In 2009 the AOT released the terminal for commercial use. We won the open bid, and gave it a complete overhaul to create our executive lounge. “We’re basically a one-stop service for any private aircraft under 45 tonnes. Besides clients using our aircraft we receive a large number of passengers using other private jets, mostly Gulfstreams and Challengers. Most of our clients are business executives, but we also see quite a few celebrities, including international actors and athletes.” Old carpet and furniture were removed in favour of luxurious furnishings fit for a five-star resort. The wall facing the runway was replaced by large picture windows to open the space to more light and views of arriving and departing flights. The spacious lounge includes shower facilities, a business centre for passengers and pilots, and a flight bangkok101.com
highlight
planning and pilot briefing office. The terminal has its own immigration and customs counters just outside the front door. “People love the atmosphere in our lounge, and the convenient location only a short walk from the runway,” Kulthida says. Currently MJets’ charter fleet consists of three aircraft. The smallest, a Piper Malibu Mirage, is a turboprop with a cruising speed of 480kph and a range of roughly a thousand kilometres, making it a popular choice for shorter private jet charters in Thailand (or as far afield as Cambodia and Vietnam). The craft seats two to four persons. Next up in size is a Cessna Citation CJ3, the backbone of MJets’ private jet service. Seating up to six passengers in extremely comfortable reclining leather seats, the CJ3 cruises at 773 km/hr and can fly 3,475 km without refuelling. Because the CJ-3 can take off and land at airports with runways as short as 3,000 feet, it’s a good choice for clients flying to regional airports in Southeast Asia or south China. The craft bangkok101.com
S N A P S H OT S
can hopscotch to Europe in two days with a stopover in Hyderabad, Mumbai or Dubai. The pride of MJets’ fleet and the top of the Cessna business jet line is the Cessna Citation X (not the letter X, but rather the Roman numeral for 10). Since the retirement of the Concorde, the Citation X is the fastest civilian jet in the world, reaching a top speed of over 900kph. The X’s plush cabin includes 7.3sqm of stand-up cabin space and seating for eight passengers. Each seat comes with an individual fold-out table for dining or work, and electrical power points. The seat reclines fully to convert to a bed. One executive seat is equipped with a control panel where a designated passenger can operate cabin lights and window shades, and monitor the entertainment system. Between the passenger cabin and the pilots cabin is a small galley containing the appliances, dishes and cold storage necessary for catering, usually arranged through local hotels. A flight attendant (mandatory for every flight) serves food and beverages from the galley. J U N E 2014 | 27
S N A P S H OT S
highlight
Bizarre
Thailand
A 20-year resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has contributed to many guidebooks and is also the author of Tuttle Travel Pack Thailand. He compiled tales of the unexpected into a book called ‘Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic’. For more bytes and
pixels check out jimalgie.com.
MUSEUM OF THE MACABRE
M
any Thai children who grew up in the 1960s received the same warning from their parents: “Don’t stay out after dark or the ghost of See Uey will eat you.” The cannibal-turned-supernatural legend and movie villain was, in reality, a poor Chinese man who went on a killing spree around Bangkok and some of the nearby provinces. He had a taste for children. No one is certain, but it’s believed that he murdered and ate anywhere from five to eight children. Speculation also ran rife that his omnivorous ‘diet’ may have included some adults that he was never charged over. Caught in the act of burning one of the corpses by the young boy’s father, See Uey Sae Ung was finally arrested in 1958. His confessions traumatised Thailand, birthing a bogeyman who still haunts the nation’s psyche. After stabbing the children in the throat, See Uey told police, he 28 | J U N E 2014
then slit open their chests and ate their hearts and livers. A Hainanese immigrant who toiled as a coolie, rickshawpuller and vegetable farmer after arriving in Thailand, the country’s most legendary serial slayer was a former soldier, fighting against the Japanese invaders on the Chinese island during World War II. Some believe that his bloodlust was stoked on the battlefields of Hainan province. Professor Somchai Pholeamke, the former head of Siriraj Hospital’s Forensics Department, says: “His military commanders told the troops to eat the livers of the enemy soldiers to take on their strength and power.” Many of the Thai movies about See Uey use the battlefield as the focal point of his motivations. A scene in one such film shows the young soldier, famished and alone, after all his comrades-in-arms had been slaughtered, with nothing to eat but human carrion. Eating livers is a ghastly rite often associated with bangkok101.com
highlight
black magic in Southeast Asia. Over the centuries it has been practised during times of warfare to dehumanise the enemy and feed on their strength. Just as the samurais believe that a man’s courage resides in his guts, which is why the ritual suicide of seppukko consists of disembowelment with a sword, the troops of the ancient Khmer empire and the more recent Khmer Rouge ate the livers of their enemies to increase their strength. See Uey’s cadaver (above), waxed with the preservative formalin, is the most popular exhibit at the Songkran Niyomsane Forensic Medicine Museum on the grounds of Siriraj Hospital, the country’s oldest medical facility, in Bangkok. The cannibal’s cockroach-brown corpse stands slumped in an upright glass casket off to one side of the room. The empty eye sockets, as well as the bullet holes left by the executioner’s machine-gun, have been filled in with white paraffin. Elsewhere in this academic bone-yard are Exhibits A through Z of murder weapons (knives, pliers, ropes, a hammer and a screwdriver) as well as bullets extracted from the dead during autopsies. More macabre still are the glass jars in which human foetuses, plucked from the womb after the mother had perished, swim in formaldehyde. One jar houses a two-month-old victim of hydrocephalus with a grotesquely swollen head that makes him look like an alien’s offspring. As a testament bangkok101.com
S N A P S H OT S
to Buddhist compassion, many Thai visitors leave dolls, candies and toys for the spirits of these kids. Near the preserved cadavers of the mass murderers is a glass case full of skulls with bullet holes in their foreheads. There is no signage in either English or Thai to explain this display. Somboon Thamtakerngkit, the division chief of the hospital’s Forensic Pathology Department, insists there is a modus operandi to the morbidity. “King Rama VIII, the eldest brother of our present king, was shot in the forehead back in 1946,” she said. “Not much was known about entrance and exit wounds caused by gunshots then, so they used the skulls of these unclaimed bodies for tests.” The results of these early shots at forensics proved that claims of suicide were skullduggery. Riddled with question marks, the case remains Thailand’s most contentious murder mystery. The Forensic Museum is part of the Siriraj Medical Museum complex located in the Siriraj Medical Museum at 2 Prannok Road. This is an excerpt from Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourism attractions. J U N E 2014 | 29
S N A P S H OT S
listings
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall [map 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo Tue -Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam noen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map 4/A3]
M.r. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 02-286-8185 Sat-Sun 10 am-5pm, Mon-Fri by appt B 50 / B 20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION [map 8/F8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd | 02-281-1569 9:30 am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP 8/K11]
Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 suanpakkad.com | 9am-4pm | B100 jimthompsonhouse.com | 9am-5pm B100 / B 50 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed graduate and former spook who revived Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard the hand-woven Thai silk industry before pays testament to her dedication to disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things ERAWAN SHRINE [map 4/G5] to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan home beside a pungent canal: six traditional BTS Chit Lom teak houses from around the country kept Don’t expect serenity here. This is one exactly as he left them.
of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
SHRINES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [map 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 8:30am-4:30pm | B 400 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in
30 | J U N E 2014
bangkok101.com
listings
a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
WAT ARUN [map 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd 02-465-5640 | watarun.org 8am-5pm | B 20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.
WAT PO (reclining buddha) [map 7/D12]
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd 02-226-0369 | watpho.com 8am-noon, 1pm-9pm | B100 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.
WAT MAHATHAT [map 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are
set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.
WAT RATCHANATDA [map 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807 9am-5pm | free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
WAT SAKET [map 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
WAT SUTHAT & the GIANT SWING [map 7/H9] Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632 9am-5pm | B 20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to
S N A P S H OT S
catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT TRAIMIT [map 6/L3] 661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B 20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [map 8/L11, 12]
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng). Ratchaprarop Rd 02-245-3008 | bangkokdolls.com Mon-Sat 8am-5pm | free Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 31
S N A P S H OT S
listings
S
revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
Madame tussauds [map 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060 madametussauds.com/Bangkok 10am -9pm | B 800 / B 600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe's famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 02-653-5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm ( App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
Museum of Siam [map 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier 02-622-2599 | ndmi.or.th Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with 32 | J U N E 2014
pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [map 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang 02-224-1333 | thailandmuseum.com Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B 200 | no photo Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam's main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [map 7/K7] 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02-621-0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hardto-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [map 7/B4] 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 02-424-0004 | 9am-5pm B 30 / B100 photo / B 200 video This collection of ornate royal barges,
some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [map 1/F6] 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644 | ancientcity.com B 500 / B 250 kids / B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing.
THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province nfat.org 02-482-2013-15 | Sat-Sun tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; MonFri: by appointment | Free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, props and costumes. bangkok101.com
T R AV E L
SUBSCRIBE
now for just B1,000 per year
GET IT EVERY MONTH!
PAYMENT
www.bangkok101.com
METHOD OF PAYMENT Cheque (made payable to Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd.) Bank Transfer to: Account name: Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. Account no.: 049-425319-2 Bank name: Siam Commercial Bank Swift code: SICOTHBK
PLEASE SEND SUBSCRIPTION FORM & PAYMENT SLIP: Via mail: Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. Tel: 02-286-7821 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarindra Soi 4, Sathon, Bangkok 10120 Via fax: +66(0)2-286-7829 Via E-mail: distribution@talisman-media.com
PRICE B1,000 for 12 months (a saving of B200 per year)
DETAILS
Subscriber discount (incl. postage): Thailand B1,000 / US $33 Asia US $83 Europe / Australasia US $97 Americas / Rest of World US $110 3 0 | S E P T E M B E R 2 012
Name .............................................................................................................................. Tel. .............................................................................................................................. E-mail .................................................................................................................... Address ........................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................ ..................................................................................................................
I would like to subscribe for ..........................................year(s) starting from .................................................................. issue.
bangkok101.com
between preservation and progress
Phi ta khon festival
loei
D
an Sai, a tiny town in northeastern Loei province plays host to one of most bizarre and colourful festivals, the wacky Phi Ta Khon, which translates roughly as “ghosts follow villagers”. The first day of the festivities is the so-called Ghost Festival, also known as Wan Ruam (assembly day). Villagers ask for protection from the spirit of the Mun river and then take part in a procession while wearing masks made of rice husks or coconut leaves. On the second day, it’s all about the Rocket Festival, as well as more dancing and more parades. On the third and final day, hundreds of people dressed in masks made from huat (sticky rice containers) will parade to the main temple in town. The festival’s dates are chosen by the town’s mediums – this year, the festivities run June 27-29.
T R AV E L
up country now
June 8 Laguna Phuket International Marathon Slip on your running shoes and lycra shorts, there’s a marathon to be won, this one down in Phuket. Setting off from the luscious Laguna Beach Resort, the 9th Laguna Phuket International Marathon will do a loop the island’s backroads, past temples, local villages and pineapple and rubber plantations. You don’t need to be a jogging nut to take part: as well as the full marathon, there will also be a half marathon, a 10.5 km run, a 5km community walk and a 2 km kids run. See www.phuketmarathon.com for more information, including entry fees.
June 13 Pu Sae Ya Sae It is a cultural ritual that people in the north have been taking part in for genarations. Pu Sae Ya Sae – or the ghosts of grandparents- are believed to be the spiritual guardians of the city. According to the myth, Pu Sae Ya Sae will need to feast on buffalo once a year. The ritual involves sacrificing buffalo and becoming processed by the spirit. Be warned- there’s plenty of gore involved, so it’s probably not one for visitors with queasy stomachs.
June 14 Sukhothai mini light and sound shows The collection of cultural ruins and historical records in the town earned this site recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The mini light and sound show will be held at Wat Sasri inside Sukhothai Historical Park, aiming to celebrate the glorious history and culture of this ancient Thai capital as the source of national heritage. Visitors can listen to the narration in several languages including English, Japanese, French and German. Admission to the show is free.
June 18-19 Save Koh Tao Festival One of the best diving sites in the world, Koh Tao provides the diving lovers with a vast variety of sea creatures and plants to be found. Eco-friendly tourism is the main concern for both local people and tourists, Save Koh Tao festival is hence organized. Enjoy releasing baby turtles back into the sea and exploring the island as well as improving the environment at the same time. Beach and reef clean-up is another activity which worth experience.
36 | J U N E 2014
bangkok101.com
up country now
T R AV E L
June 20-22 Hua Hin Jazz Festival 2014 This three-day music festival 2014 will bring balmy jazz sessions featuring local and foreign hepcats to the seaside resort town’s Phonkingphet Park and beach. A wide range of artist will perform on the stage but the line-up is still a mystery. Visit www. jazzfestivalhuahin.com for more information, the website usually spills the beans when the artist line is announced. Shows usually run 3pm-midnight; free entry.
June 26 Sunthorn Phu Memorial Day If this name sounds unfamiliar to you and you have no idea who he is, the “Shakespear of Thailand” might give some clues. First established by UNESCO, the annual event is held in Rayong where the greatest Thai poet was born. Sunthon Phu’s classical literary works are praised by all Thai people for a very long era. Tourists can enjoy cultural performances and puppet shows depicting his works. The major highlights are poetry recitals, folk entertainment and dramas. There is also an exhibition on his poetry and stories.
Until June 30 Chiang Mai Golf Fest 2014 Lovers of the sedate yet tricky game should swing up to Northern Thailand between now and the end of June. During the Chiang Mai Golf Festival 2014 you can play nine of the major courses in the region, including ones in Chiang Mai for only B1500. The price includes green fee, caddies and souvenir from the festival.
Until June 30 Pang Sida Butterfly Watching Festival Observe more than 400 types of butterflies in the Pang Sida National Park of the Sa Kaeo Province. Buy products from different districts at the OTOP market in the city, watch a butterfly parade and butterfly exhibition, with live music, dance, folk sports and more. For more information contact the Pang Sida National Park Office, call 03-724-6100.
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 37
T R AV E L
hotel review
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit
Just around the corner from Asoke BTS, the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit is one of Bangkok’s most centrally located hotels. And, last month, after a fairly turbulent period in this neck of the woods, they relaunched a couple of their best-known outlets. BarSu reopened after a refurbishment and their flagship Italian restaurant Rossini’s also returned with a menu dedicated to gourmet modern Italian cuisine. Of course, there are still plenty of regular attractions in place – whether for guests or for passersby. For example, Basil, the hotel’s Thai restaurant, turns out some top-noptch Thai staples. Among the appetisers, the soft-shelled crab, or poo nim clook nga thord (B390), sets the bar high early on. Served with sesame seeds and tamarind sauce, there’s the full gamut of salty, spicy and sweet, encapsulating in one mouthful why people the world over can’t get enough of Thai food. The chef’s recommendations include the grilled scallops in coconut milk, or tom kha hoy shell yang (B400). Normally the best seafood dishes go easy on seasoning to retain the seafood flavour, but the coconut milk is mild enough that it doesn’t dominate but still introduces a delicate aftertaste. For brunchers, the Orchid Cafe offers a mix between buffet dining and a la carte. Among the buffet highlights, there are some inventive salads as well as some seriously good bread. 38 | J U N E 2014
If you fancy something more substantial, then there’s a list of rotating daily specials. For nightcaps, check out the Living Room upstairs, where there’s live jazz and an impressive range of wine and spirits to choose from. The Grande Spa brims with different treatments for those looking for an afternoon of relaxation and pampering. In particular, try the healing stone massage (B3600 for 90 min).
sheraton grande sukhumvit
[MAP 3/h10]
250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8888 sheratongrandesukhumvit.com
bangkok101.com
island xxx escape
T R AV E L
Koh Samui may be famous BY XXXX
M
y name is xxx xxx xxx
xxx xxxx
the height of ADVENTURE Accessible by boat from mainland Krabi, Tonsai is a renowned climbing hotspot with an irresistibly relaxed after-hours atmosphere. BY URASA POR BURAPACHEEP
S
piderman Wall stands before us—a majestic chunk of rock rising out of the calm Andaman Sea, its otherwise sheer face striped with limestone like fossilised candlewax. We watch as the first brave souls begin their ascent, their bodies flexing and arching impossibly. Within minutes they have become mere specks. As the first body falls towards the sea, we gasp collectively. This is deep water soloing—scaling large rock and jumping into the sea. It’s climbing in its purest form, with no set route, no rope, and no protection. My turn soon comes. At the bottom of Spiderman, the rope ladder creaks and swings. My grip feels steady on the smooth outcroppings. My toes soon find their resting place. These are now the sole square inches of contact between me and the rock. My only possible path: a seemingly featureless expanse of rock, then a giant lopsided wedding cake of stalactite two arms’ lengths away. From here, the crowd below seem nothing but figurines in toy boats. Lessons from the day’s training come flooding back to me. Fact one: uncontrolled falls are always more dangerous, especially for a novice. Much better to jump when feeling prepared and comfortable. Fact two: from less than 10 metres, a human body can fall into the water without serious risk – I am five metres beyond that threshold. Cut off from mainland Krabi by majestic limestone cliffs bangkok101.com
and carpeted by a dense growth of palms, Tonsai Beach has remained more of an island. From afar, the beach appears almost uninhabited. At Basecamp Tonsai, visitors wake to the cries of gibbons and a shirtless Thai strums a heart-rending southern tune on his guitar. Next to him, what resembles an elastic rubber band stretches taut between two trees. A Thai steps nimbly along its length, a cigarette in hand. The band — a ‘slackline’ — tightens under his weight. Tonsai’s abundance of fort-like cliffs and amiable, unpretentious vibe have drawn many of the world’s best climbers to its shore. They sit gobbling Thai comfort food and fruitshakes before heading out for the day’s climbs. Instead, I head to Tonsai’s better-known neighbour, Railay, and a path which leads to Phra Nang Beach and eventually to an inland lagoon, which fills from the sea at each high tide. Below a confusion of tree roots, mudcaked rock, and smooth red earth, a sign reads: “Danger! Slippery Area Ahead.” As if on cue, an out-of-breath French couple emerges, their limbs caked in mud. Another man staggers after them, shaking his head and muttering under his breath. Soon after my ascent, dense leaves close in and the path darkens. In the 1980s, visitors climbed up on vines, which broke at excessive weight, and some reported spotting a marijuana plantation. xxxx 2013 | 41
T R AV E L
island escape
Photos: Marcus Kraft and Keita Ganesha Mukunda
On my trek, I encounter a system of fixed ropes slick with mud, a few practically vertical drops, a spectacular lookout point, leaves the size of grown men and invisible whirring insects reminiscent of something nasty from Jurassic Park. Later, when I return to Basecamp covered in red earth, nobody raises an eyebrow. Opposite Andaman Nature Resort’s open-air restaurant, locals tinker with the engine of a stilled Jeep, hoping it will start but unfazed if it doesn’t. My Tonsai comrades— four people from four countries and three continents— have prime seats: the slightly worn cushions in front of Tonsai’s only generator-powered and truly communal cable television. Marcus, a Swiss-based German, tells us he plans to buy a T-shirt that reads: “I’m leaving Tonsai tomorrow... Maybe.” The nearby Small World Bar is its own universe, filled with a log-panelled counter, bamboo tepee, massive tree sculpture and jungle trinkets. An Italian man joins us inside our thatched pavilion and begins sipping his fruitshake. “My friend built this place up from scratch. Everything here comes from the jungle,” he says. Like many of Tonsai’s long-term residents, he calls himself a Rasta, sports dreadlocks and spends his days playing Frisbee. “It’s a religion. We do everything for a reason,” he insists. On the beachfront, Freedom Bar hosts a range of conversations in a wild mix of gentle accents. Beyond, mainland Krabi and its surrounding islands cast silhouettes against the sky. where stars twinkle like fireflies. 42 | J U N E 2014
Back on the face of Spiderman, the magic of Tonsai seems a world away. Below me, a fellow climber with sculpted biceps looks up from his perch atop a tufa. “It’s not a fight against the climb,” he tells me, bringing his fist to his chest. “It’s the fight against here.” My mind goes blank. I step off and am suspended in air. The waves rush up to meet me. I hit the water. Later, on Tup Island, a narrow strip of sand extending into an endless expanse of sea, my saviour regales me with his first skydiving experience. “When they ask ‘Are you ready?’ you want to shout back, ‘No, of course I’m not ready!’ You’re looking down and you see no car, no house. Nothing. It’s just a white field of air. And then you go. ‘‘And as soon as you’re out there floating, you have the biggest smile of your life. And it never leaves your face until you touch the ground.” A wave rises inside of me. It breaks on to my face as a smile: “Yes, I know what you mean.”
Getting There: Head to Krabi first – long-tail boats depart regularly from Ao Nang. Accommodation: Most places are located on the main path. The average price is B500 per night, negotiable for longer stays. Basecamp Tonsai offers climbing and deep water soloing trips. The Sunset Trip (B1200) is held twice a month at half-moon. Check basecamptonsai.com. bangkok101.com
mondo‘s High Tea
available everyday from 11am-6pm only THB 480++ per person
SUKHUMVIT BANGKOK
Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 For reservation call: 02-620 6666 Facebook.com/HiltonSukhumvit
BTS Skytrain: Phrom Phong
XXXXxxx Xxxx BY LUC CITRINOT
XXXXxx
x
Xxxx
over the border
T R AV E L
ENJOY THE
RIDE
Every August, Litang’s horse festival helps this Sichuanese town reconnect with its ancient Tibetan traditions. BY MARCO FERRARESE
A
man with long hair curled into a braid recites a series of mantras as he bends over the neck of his Tibetan pony. His reddish face, hardened by high-altitude winds and unforgiving sun, leaves him resembling a clay warrior on horseback. As he prays, the man caresses the animal on the side of its head to pass on his good luck spell. This ritual reduces the voices of hundreds of spectators around him to a mumbled hum: they sit along the sides of the racetrack, holding their breath, anxious to witness the next run. At last, the rider opens his eyes and raises his right hand to the sky. A colourful silk ribbon connects his fist to his horse’s mouth. He pulls it lightly to start trotting away. As mount and rider gain speed, hooves spray pieces of black earth in their wake trail, until he swerves to the racetrack’s centre, bites the makeshift bridle, and lets himself fall to the left side of his horse. With his legs braced tightly around the horse’s ribs and his feet planted over swinging stirrups, the rider’s upper body bends and floats in the air. When his mount approaches an earthen pyramid in the middle of the racetrack, the rider grabs a stone perched at its top, and lifts himself back into an upright position. The crowd cheers powerfully – a roar that echoes out across the grasslands as round leather cowboy hats swing madly in the air. Before the sound fades, a new rider takes his place at the start of the racetrack, and the show begins again. Welcome to Tibetan Kham – the western part of today’s Sichuan province – and Litang; at 4.014 metres, is one of the highest towns in the world. It’s here that, at the beginning of August, an annual forse festival fills the plateaus with thousands of Khampas. These nomadic herders come from different parts of the Tibetan Autonomous Region and the outlying Tibetan states of Kham and Amdo, the flanks of today’s Chinese provinces Sichuan, Qinghai and Yunnan. They race for honour and prestige: by competing for the best horse, Khampas establish their nomadic socioeconomic hierarchies. On top of that, as happened in bangkok101.com
2007, the event functions as a stage for anti-Chinese government propaganda. That’s the reason why, outside of Litang, no one knows about the precise festival’s date or his location. We only know that it’s usually held for a day in the first half of August, and we’re crossing our fingers. Hitching a ride from Daocheng, the first sizeable Tibetan mountain town after the snowy Yunnanese border, we drive along a tiny concrete snake amidst rolling green hills and clear streams. “The horse festival is coming up,” says our driver, a tanned Khampa who keeps his cowboy hat and sunglasses on even inside the car. “It’s the best time to be in town. Ask people when you arrive, for it’s truly unmissable.”
A
sk xxxx xx xxx xxx xxxx
J U N E 2014 | 45
T R AV E L
over the border
xxx xXxx
Indeed, we are extremely lucky: the guesthouse owner tells us that the festival will take place the next day at the outskirts of town. This Tibetan woman speaks basic Mandarin Chinese, and is wrapped into the long black skirt and woollen clothes which are local remedies against harsh nights on the plateau. “Walk towards the grasslands out of town, and you will see the encampment,” she suggests. With a full day ahead of us, we decide to start exploring the town. Similarly to most places in west China, Litang’s main thoroughfare is another unattractive and dusty road lined with Han Chinese restaurants and box-like shops that would drive any visitor out of town very quickly. But there has to be something more: in fact, black and maroonclad Tibetan men keep zooming past us on motorbikes adorned with colourful rugs and leather stripes. Following them east of the Chinese block, it’s not long before we discover the way to the most authentic part of Litang. Beyond a statue of Tibetan hero King Gesar on horseback, the roads become smaller and Tibetan Kham beckons by throwing whirls of floating white pollen over us. Clusters of squarish houses encase a street that progressively turns into gravel and climbs steeper towards a grassy mountain. Halfway through the slope, we are confronted by the walls of the Ganden Thubchen Choekhorling Monastery. It lies like a maroon creature between two grassy bends, its golden gompas starkly contrasting against the blue sky. Inhabited by the Gelukpa sect, this place is a stronghold of Tibetan history: not only the seventh and 10th Dalai Lamas were born here, but this is also the place where in 1956 Tibetans resisted the People’s Liberation Army attacks to impose communist rule and reforms in Kham. Today, there’s only a group of young novice monks on bicycles waiting for us outside of the main gate. We enter the monastery’s austere and dark interiors passing through wooden pillars that show the wear and tear of 46 | J U N E 2014
passing years. Golden statues look back at us among darkly coloured Tibetan thankas that flutter in the breeze. We continue climbing a series of creaky wooden ladders to the roof, where we are rewarded with a fantastic view of the city and the surrounding valleys. From here, we can see how the new Chinese-built thoroughfare be the only non-Tibetan part of town. Further away in the distance, smoke wafts up in the sky from metal chimneys inserted into white Tibetan tents. They look like black spoon handles sticking out of vanilla ice cream scoops served over a green tray. That’s where we will go tomorrow morning. As expected, the festival area pullulates with humans and animals draped in colourful costumes. Horses’ tails and sides are tied with the white, blue, orange, green and yellow of prayer flags. Two elderly women swing hand held Tibetan prayer wheels and smile at us as we approach them. “Most people don’t speak English or Chinese here,” a chubby Han Chinese man surprises us from behind. He invites us to call him Mike, and explains that he has arrived here cycling for 600 kilometres of rugged terrain. “I’m from Shanghai. Me and my friends took a train to Chengdu, to cycling to Lhasa in Tibet in eleven days, and catch a train back,” he explains. As I look around, and judging from the number of Chinese tourists who sprout here and there negotiating the muddy plateau on bicycle, it seems like crisscrossing the Tibetan Plateau on two-wheels had become a favourite past-time for the new Chinese Middle Class. Nothing wrong with that, but I’d much prefer to see them confined to the uninteresting town centre’s thoroughfare they built, rather than enjoying the celebrations of the same nomadic people their forefathers oppressed. The Khampas, however, seem not to care much: to them, what truly matters today is hooves, high pitched neighs, and the acrobatic pride of the most valiant among their men. bangkok101.com
JAPANESE GASTRO BAR KAGUYA THE THIRD PLACE THONGLOR 10
50
Open. 17.30 - 01.00 Tel. 02 714 9974, 086 881 7299
% DISCOUNT
NIGIRI SUSHI
& SASHIMI Ekamai Soi 5
Wine Republic Thonglor Soi 10
JUNE
Kaguyagastrobar Ekamai Road
@10 Thonglor
Thonglor Road
Sukhumvit Road
kaguyagastrobar
FOR
HAPPY HOUR
AT FINISHING POST, LEVEL 23 Sit back, relax with your favorite alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverage, overviewing Bangkok’s panoramic view of the city skyline with our special Happy Hour promotion of buy one get one free everyday from 5.00pm - 7.00pm
CIGAR LOUNGE AND OPEN AIR SMOKING AREA
a r t
bangkok101.com
the lady and the lens US-based Lebanese photographer Rania Matar presents three series of works shot between 2005 and 2012 at the Toot Yung Art Centre until June 30. Matar’s work focuses mainly on girls and women. Earlier projects recorded the lives of women and children in the Middle East, and over the past three years she has been exploring age transitions of girls and women in the Middle East as well as in the USA. At Toot Yung, the series Ordinary Lives, Girl in Her Room and L’Enfant-Femme will be exhibited. Matar was born and raised in Lebanon and moved to the US in 1984. She trained as an architect before studying photography, which she went on to teach in Lebanese refugee camps. Her accolades include winning the 2010 Unicef Picture of the Year Award and her images are in the permanent collections of several museums worldwide.
xxxxx 2013 | 49
A RT & C u lt u r e
exhibitions
I AM NOT A SEX SHOW The Four Points by Sheraton Sukhumvit Soi 15 | 02-309-3000 fourpointsbangkoksukhumvit.com
[MAP 3/g9]
June 6-8 Pene Meniere, a South African born, multi-media artist living in Bangkok, presents her latest work, “I AM NOT A SEX SHOW”. This series of assembled photographic prints, detail specific genres of Bangkok, and have been overlaid with barely legible photographic type. The exhibition aims to offer a consciousness of Bangkok, unearthing and offering insight into the artificial image in which Bangkok is portrayed.
Under the radar
Chulalongkorn Art Centre [MAP 4/d8] 7F Centre of Academic Resources Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd | 02-218-2964 | Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm
Until June 14 A group exhibition by six-emerging artists who graduated from what could be considered non-mainstream art schools. With only a handful of largely Bangkok based institutions producing most of the country’s practicing artists, this exhibition offers alternatives to the centralism.
general/tiger/gun
rebel art space [MAP 8/t18] 10/5 Sukhumvit 67 | 0871-127-774 Tues-Sat 10am-7pm | facebook.com/rebelartspace
Until June 24 Featuring eight artists from Burma working in a variety of mediums, this politically minded exhibition is set against the backdrop of the Burmese regime’s recent loosening of power, while reminding us that fear and repression are still deeply ingrained within the national psyche.
50 | j u n e 2014
bangkok101.com
exhibitions
A RT & C u lt u r e
young programme 2014 la lanta fine art [MAP 3/k8] 245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-260-5381 Tues- Sat 10am-7pm | lalanta.com
Until June 26 After the previous profile of two Thai female artists who use embroidery as their medium, this year’s annual Young Programme to nurture emerging creative talent spotlights four emerging Korean artists. The 25 works on view include ceramic sculptures, painting, and mixed media works with LED lighting.
before birth, after death numthong gallery at aree [MAP 8/h7] 72/3 Aree 5, Phahonyothin Road | 0819-185-067 Mon-Sat 11am-6pm | gallerynumthong.com
Until June 28 Central to his core philosophy, Kamin Lertchaiprasert’s recurrent thread is the cycle of life, having previously manifested through different forms and mediums, including sound installation, multimedia works, and even his 31st Century Museum in Chiang Mai. On this occasion he displays 730 drawings and 1089 skull sculptures as he focuses on the small incidental details of everyday existence.
hiraeth
RMA Institute [MAP 3/m13] 238 Soi Sainamthip 2, Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-663-0809 rmainstitute.net | Tues-Sun 8.30am-7pm
June 12 – July 13 Photographer Nana Chen has captured portraits of Hong Kong’s infamous Chungking Mansions, which Chen explores as a microcosm of the contemporary world. An estimated 4000 people live there, including migrant workers and refugees from Africa and Asia, and local and mainland citizens.
bangkok101.com
j u n e 2014 | 51
Finding the spark Acclaimed French artist Henri Lamy offers his impressionistic take on Bangkok. BY TOM STURROCK
exhibitions
A RT & C u lt u r e
“I’m really grateful for what I discovered here, it means a lot to me. Representing old cultural things with the fresh look of an outsider is always interesting.”
O
n arrival in Bangkok, Henri Lamy was almost immediately immersed in its infectious chaos. With only a week to explore the city before beginning his residency at the Modern Gallery – his exhibition, Hope, runs from June 11 to August 13 – the Frenchman set out to take in as much of the capital as he could. “The city is very lively. It never rests. There’s always something to do,” he says. “I saw these kids for example, playing in the street, I started calling them, and joined them in their fight. They were all running at me trying to hit me, jumping and kicking. Everyone was laughing as they’d never seen a white dude playing capoeira with them.” Lamy’s exhibition will feature a collection of paintings depicting Thailand – and Bangkok, specifically. In many ways, it is a subject perfectly suited to Lamy’s vibrant, slightly chaotic style. “My art wants to be messy, and spontaneous,” he explains. “I use a palette knife, because I’m too lazy to wash my brushes. I use acrylic, because I don’t want to wait for it to dry. I paint fast, because I want the paint to flow like a pen on a paper. Action is my style. The mix of colours is chaotic and illogical. “There’s a real message of joy and happiness in the artworks [depitcing Thailand], but it also asks questions about the society and who are the main actors of the system, how does hierarchy work, who loves who, who teaches spirituality and philosophy. “I’m really grateful for what I discovered here, it means a lot to me. Representing old cultural things with the fresh look of an outsider is always interesting.” Lamy’s figurative style has already earned him serious acclaim in Europe but his approach remains low-key, matter-of-fact. “Figurative means representing reality and real things and people,” he says. “Be real, be honest, and deal with reality, be down-to-earth and honest. No lie, no shame. We
bangkok101.com
live in the present and love to live life. We are grateful for that. I’m trying to enjoy what I do.” In particular, Lamy has developed a distinctive style of portraiture, although he’s not entirely sure how his approach developed. “There have been millions of painters before me and they all probably already tried to create a distinctive style,” he says. “My art shows passion, dream, ambition, shares values between people and helps to interact. I want to give it a social power sometimes.” Lamy also paints live – creating portraits in front of an audience. Despite the extra pressure, he enjoys the experience. “The reaction of people – sometimes it can become crazy, sometimes just stays chill out, we never know,” he says. “But there’s always someone going to comment about the event and the way I did my performance and I think I like it. It really helps to create better. You tend to correct certain errors or launch in other directions. When I was a kid, I liked painting on my own, and didn’t need to show it to the world. Now I think every art work can be done in front of them. It’s a communion. “I’m trying to deal with the spark that it inside everybody. How we listen to our dreams, if we have some. The people I meet always reveal something, that helps me understand part of a bigger picture.”
hope June 11 – august 13 modern gallery
[MAP 5/c3]
4/6 OP Garden, Charoen Krung Soi 36 | 02-238-6449 Facebook: Modern Gallery | Mon-Sat 11am-7pm
j u n e 2014 | 53
The Stylish
New Way to Sleep in Bangkok
seven design hotel 3/15 Sukhumvit 31 Bangkok 10110 t: +662.662.0951 f: +662.662.3344 e: info@sleepatseven.com www.sleepatseven.com
cheat notes
klongs
bangkok days
Pamela Hamburger | B995
Lawrence Osbourne| B395
Arguably the biggest losers in Bangkok’s slapdash modernisation have been the city’s klongs, or canals. For proof, take a trip down Klong Saen Saeb: along this poisonous central waterway you are more likely to see people holding their noses than catch any glimpses of the fabled ‘Venice of the East’. And this is one of the lucky ones – many were filled in to make way for roads. This book offers a collection of interviews with those living along those that remain – ladies, as old as their wooden homes, mostly – topped off with Hamburger’s boat-bound snapshots. What emerges is mainly a sad indictment of Bangkok’s environmental negligence, and a testimony to the resilience of these stoic water communities. Most edifying, though, are the anthropological insights to be gleaned from the stories, which span everything from local Muslim and Buddhist relations and dying handicrafts to watery ghost tales.
British journalist Lawrence Osbourne spends his nights wandering the city, hanging out with old, sleazeball westerners, trying to fathom why it is they come here. Duh, the sex? Not necessarily, he suggests in this meandering and lyrical, notquite travelogue. What they’re often seeking here, in “the slutty Cinderella of Southeast Asian cities”, is the tactile interconnectedness that Bangkok’s cramped streets and cheap massages provides. It’s a compelling idea and, though Osbourne does the city a disservice by only exploring its seamy side, and is an occasional fabulist – his gigolo experience in particular beggars belief – to his credit he says a lot more about male solitude than he does sex. Titillating trash this is not. In fact, we haven’t read anything so immersive and downright well-written on low-life Bangkok since Pico Iyer’s Love in a Duty-free Zone. We were hooked, start to finish, even if it didn’t always ring true.
A RT & C u lt u r e
A CENTURY OF THAI CINEMA
Dome Sukwong & Sawasdi Suwannapakthor | B500
Thai cinema is crying out for a reelby-reel retelling – a book which does its history justice in the same way that Donald Ritchie did with Japan’s, thus introducing it to a new global audience. The case for such a book has only grown stronger in recent years too, with Palmes d’Or winning arthouse maverick Apitchatpong Weerasethakul singlehandedly raising the international profile of Thai cinema. Unfortunately, A Century of Thai Cinema isn’t the book film buffs are waiting for. It adds mere wisps of text to the very little already written in English on the subject, instead bombarding the reader with over 2500 colour reproductions of Thailand’s zany film posters, promotional photographs, magazine covers, records and other associated memorabilia. Treat it for what it is though – a glorious picturebook – and you’ll find it to be a superficial but enjoyable pleasure.
long june Kamol Srisawat | 1996 Adapted from a popular novel, Long June is as likeable as the best of Thai soap operas – that is, if you don’t mind a series of unlikely coincidences, easy reconciliations, perturbingly melodramatic music, and a few too many flashbacks. Young, hot-blooded Long June seems to get dealt the worst possible hands in life. Born with the family’s business in disarray, he is christened Long June, the curse of bad luck. His other adversities include a near fatal incident, an arrest, and a father who deeply detests him. It’s a capsule of 90s Thailand, where youth sported long hair, raced on fast motorbikes and peppered their speech with English words. bangkok101.com
j u n e 2014 | 55
art & culture photofeature
xxx xxx
xxxxxx Xxxx xxxxx WORDS BY XXXXX
tricks of the trade Photographer Nic Dunlop has made a career out of the telling stories through images and now wants to help demystify the area for amateurs at an upcoming workshop in Bangkok. BY TOM STURROCK
A RT & C u lt u r e
58 | xxx 2013
photo feature
bangkok101.com
photo feature
Photos: Nic Dunlop/Panos Pictures
N
ic Dunlop has built a storied career behind the lens, having spent the best part of two decades travelling back and forth to Myanmar – previously Burma – to capture images of life under the military junta. On his travels he photographed opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi during her time under house arrest. Next month, Dunlop is holding a workshop in Bangkok to share his skills with committed amateaur photographs interested in creating their own portraits and photo essays. “My idea was to provide a crash course for people wanting to improve their photography,” Dunlop says. “I learned the hard way – I learned from making endless mistakes.” For Dunlop, the key message is that anyone can take interesting photographs. It is, after all, an increasingly democratic medium. That said, quality photographs aren’t produced by simply pointing and shooting at random. Developing a certain creative and technical approach is also important. “Taking good photographs isn’t now to having some unique talent – it’s down to perseverance,” Dunlop says. “People are taking more photos now than ever before but what hasn’t changed is the need to understand how pictures work and how to tell that story through them.” Preparation and planning quickly emerge as key platform in Dunlop’s approach to photography. That means undertanding the subject of the photographs as well as the kinds of images required. “One area people underestimate is research, seeing what other people have done before,” he says. “That can be as simple as looking at other people’s work online.
59 | xxx 2013
“If you’re trying to tell a story that has a narrative flow, there will be certain key images you’d be expected to include. In a visual language, there’s still a beginning, middle and an end. Once people develop that visual literacy, they can build on that and then present their own unique view of the world.” “If you’re trying to follow one person through a story and turn it into a photo essay, you’re going to need certain key images – you’ll need a tighter portrait shot, as well as a wider establishing image. “If, for example, your story is about what they do for a living, you’ll probably need something of them at work. So it’s good to map it out like that – I used to sit down with a sketch book and come up with the kinds of images I wanted.” Portraiture is clearly an area of photography that animates Dunlop. Capturing one person in a fleeting moment and turning that into an enduring image encapsulates the power of photography. “It can be very arresting and very powerful,” Dunlop says. “You think about the famous portrait of Che Guevara that you now see everywhere. It’s important to step back and think again about why the person you’re photographing is interesting. But everyone can learn how to do it. “There’s a whole realm that’s accessible to people and it’s not only the realm of the elite. There’s a way of thinking and a set of skills and a few tricks of the trade but we want everyone to have access to those and get really fired-up about their photography.” Nic Dunlop’s workshop runs July 27-August 1 at Jam Factory. It’s US$1495 per student. Check out photographer.asia for more information. bangkok101.com
A RT & C u lt u r e
62 | x x x 2013
photo feature
bangkok101.com
photo feature
63 | xxx 2013
bangkok101.com
Nasu Ankake genji p72
AROy cooking with kittichai
Ian Kittichai has built an enviable profile as Thailand’s first celebrity chef and a bumper portfolio of restaurants in Bangkok and around the world. Hot on the heels of his Issaya Siamese Club being named among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, the Issaya Cooking Studio (LG Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd; 02-160-5636; issayastudio.com) opened last month. It’s a cooking school and ‘demonstration centre’, offering instruction in everything from basic Thai cuisine to molecular and modern techniques.
Indulge on sukhumvit
As of last month, Sukhumvit has a new cocktail bar that does nibbles in the shape of Indulge (Sukhumvit Suites Hotel; 403-403/1, 407-407/ 1 Sukhumvit Rd; 02-661-7229; indulgebangkok.com). Getting it all right – good food and good booze – is notoriously tricky. They certainly have some innovative signature cocktails, balancing the classic with the more modern, but early indications are that the food may need a little more time to develop. Still, it’s nice to have another option along Sukhumvit.
Benjarong reopens
The modern Thai revolution continues apace following the reopening of Benjarong (946 Rama IV Rd; 02-200-9000; dusit.com) last month. It’s telling that Dusit Thani, a Thai brand that emphasises heritage and tradition, has decided to embrace this trend. This apparently, is where the market is heading. And they’re in good hands with head chef Morten Bojstrup Nielsen, who worked at David Thompson’s Nahm in London and Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin in Bangkok. Stay tuned for a review in Bangkok 101.
tastes of spain
Having built a reputation for a willingness to experiment, Crepes & Co. (facebook. com/crepesnco) have launched their Spanish Festival, which runs until the end of July. Along with the regular menu, which is mostly Mediterranean but also borrows bits and pieces from elsewhere, you’ll find a mixed tapas platter to share, as well as a serious paella Valenciana. There’s also a selection of croquetas and, let’s face it, Albondigas meatballs are pretty hard to overlook. This is available at both the Langsuan and Thong Lor locations.
bangkok101.com
APRIL 2013 | 65
FOOD & DRIN K
meal deals
ASPARAGUS FEAST AT LA SCALA THE SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK 13/3 S Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | sukhothai.com La Scala invites you to discover various kinds of this vegetable, including green, white and wild varieties until June 15. The best of its kind is selected to serve in delectable menus such as tagliolini with wild asparagus and clam bottarga or risotto of white asparagus and caviar. Slowcooked monk fish cheek and asparagus cream served with crudités is another highlight.
the OCEAN INVADES THE ERAWAN TEAROOM GRAND HYATT ERAWAN 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-254-1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com From June 8-28, an array of scrumptious seafood dishes is offered at the Erawan Tearoom. The menu includes many Thai signatures such as poo nim phad phong kari (stir-fried crispy soft shell crab with curry powder), hoi shell phad char (stir-fried scallops with chilli, peppercorns, rhizome and basil) and mieng pla krapong tod (crispy sea bass with roasted coconut, chilli, shallot, ginger and betel leaf salad).
SUMMER DELIGHTS AT VERTIGO BANYAN TREE BANGKOK 21/100 South Sathon Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com A four-course menu specially designed by executive chef Jai is offered throughout this month at Vertigo, renowned for its unobstructed wrap-around views of Bangkok. Prices start at B2300, featuring the chef’s selections, such as tomato jalapeno salsa and butternut pumpkin soup with tortellini, wild trout salmon with pancetta, or green pea mash and moroccan salsa in lobster oil.
JAPANESE TRADITIONAL SUMMER FAVOURITES THE OKURA PRESTIGE BANGKOK 57 Wireless Rd | 02-687-9000 | okurabangkok.com Master chef Shigeru Hagiwara of Yamazato is delighted to share the very best of Japanese summer treats from June 8-30, starting at B350 per dish. Celebrate summer with seasonal favourites such as rock oyster with citrus, lime sauce and rock salt, deep-fried crab with cod roe cream and salmon roe, or sea eel boiled in soy sauce with egg.
special SANDWICHes on offer DREAM HOTEL 10 Sukhumvit Soi 15 | 02-254-8500 | dreambkk.com Enjoy an extensive line of sandwiches, spanning from American to Mediterranean styles at Flava restaurant. The bread is freshly baked and the ingredients carefully selected. Also, discover sandwiches that have been creatively adapted from Thai cuisine, such as the chicken satay sandwich. Each menu is served daily for lunch and dinner from 12.30pm–11pm for B250.
SPANISH CULINARY treats AT DA VINCI REMBRANDT HOTEL 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 02-261-7100 | rembrandtbkk.com Da Vinci restaurant welcomes three experienced chefs from Spain to present a choice of authentic traditional dishes. A special menu includes gazpacho (cold tomato soup from the south of Spain) and huevos con samfaina y chorizo (poached eggs served with Spanish ratatouille and chorizo). Refreshing wines imported from Spain are also available during your meal.
66 | J U N E 2014
bangkok101.com
review
luce - Tuscan with a twist Located on the 14th floor of the Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn, Italian restaurant Luce runs alongside the hotel’s infinity pool, set against panoramic views of Sathorn. It’s quite a setting for an authentic, but innovative, Tuscan feast. New chef Edoardo Bonavolta, who worked previously at La Bottega di Luca and Bed Supperclub, has created a menu that fuses traditional Italian fare with some rewarding flourishes and departures from the familiar. There is a loose division between seafood – a quintessentially Tuscan emphasis – and fare ‘from the earth’, which pretty much covers everything else but narrows the focus on to high-quality produce. For example, among the starters, the burrata cheese with colonnata and oysters (B790) is an indulgent beginning, heightened by the use of squid ink to flavour the bread crumbs. Alternatively, there’s the Black Angus beef carpaccio (B460) that incorporates salted ricotta cheese and baby fruits preserved in Italian mustard, balsamic caviar and pistachio crumbs. Already, it’s clear that this is not your stock-standard Italian restaurant. This determination to raise the bar is present again in the soups – an area of the menu where adherence to familiar combinations is perhaps expected. Instead, there’s a mushroom acquacotta (B330) with porcini mushrooms, parmesan, egg and fresh tomatoes. The seasoning is bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRIN K
uncomplicated enough that the natural flavours of the mushrooms are never overwhelmed but there is also an added richness. For the avid meat-eater, there may be a hard decision to be made between the premium korabuta pork cheek (B890) and the slow-cooked lamb shank (B690). Or the Fiorentina-style ribeye steak (B2500 for 600g, main image). There’s also a selection of classic pastas, which probably hew more traditional than the rest of the menu. Still, the paccheri Wagyu ragu (B440) is several notches above your average Bolognese. Again, it’s slow-cooked and the beef comes apart effortlessly, with a sauce that is a delicious blend of cheesey and peppery. Overall, if you’re after a refined Italian meal with a difference, Luce has plenty to offer. BY TOM STURROCK
luce
[MAP 5/d7]
14F Eastin Grand Hotel, 33/1 South Sathorn Rd | 02-210-8100 facebook.com/LuceRestaurantBangkok | 11.30am-midnight
J U N E 2014 | 67
FOOD & DRIN K
review
moko - High-quality brunch Located in a sedate, leafy Sathorn sub-soi, Moko occupies a rare double-fronted building, fitted out with the atmosphere and aesthetic of a small boutique gallery. While plenty of cafes are forced to squeeze into a refurbished shophouse, Moko revels in its spaciousness, the sense of openness fostered by the light flooding in through the French windows that run along the venue’s facade. As with many of the most interesting places that crop up in Sathorn – particularly when it comes to places that specialise in brunch or all-day dining – Moko is driven by a French management team and, accordingly, there are plenty of French touches when it comes to the menu design and the produce used. First things first, though, proceedings begin with a wellexecuted Bloody Mary (B200), with just enough kick to clear out any Saturday morning cobwebs. The cocktail selection is limited but there are some intriguing concoctions – the Passion Martini with vodka, fresh passionfruit and mint is refreshing without veering too far toward sweet and syrupy. For teetotallers, fruit juices start at B80 and range up to B150 for more boutique selections. Fruit smoothies start at B90 for the basics while more exotic signatures go for B120. Try the mixture of mango, papaya, passionfruit and kiwi. In terms of the food, the signature breakfast (B350) comes with eggs, bacon, sausage, fried potatoes and a baguette. On 68 | J U N E 2014
a smaller scale, there’s the eggs Benedict (B280) with salmon and Hollandaise sauce. Pivoting away from breakfast dishes toward the more lunch-focused parts of the menu, the Classica bruschetta (B250) comes piled high with jabugo ham, mozzarella, tomatoes and basil, while the Malibu salad (B300) combines shrimps, mixed salad, shitaki mushrooms and boiled eggs. This emphasis on delivering big flavours in light dishes is continued in the zucchini and squid (B320), served with cherry tomatoes and balsamic sauce. Heavier fare includes a brief list of pastas, including the farfalle all’Arrabiata (B240), straightforward with tomato sauce, garlic, chilli and parsley – and the right amount of kick. Overall, Moko’s low-key sophistication makes it a worthy addition to Bangkok’s cafe circuit. BY TOM STURROCK
moko
[MAP 5/g7]
71/2 Sathorn Soi 10 | 02-635-3673 facebook.com/MokoRestaurant web | 8am-10.30pm, closed Tuesday
bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRIN K
review
hugo - Thai style in Ekkamai Bangkok is full of expats who’ve fallen in love with Thai food; with its bold flavours, intriguing offsets and powerful combinations of spices, saltiness and sourness. To Thais who’ve grown up with all this, perhaps it’s a bit strange to see your homegrown cuisine have such an effect on so many newly converted connoisseurs. At Hugo in Ekkamai, this dynamic is reversed – here, it’s western-style food served up by Thai restaurateurs for a largely local clientele. There are still plenty of Thai touches, of course. Indeed, it’s a gorgeous interior, the ubiquitous black wrought iron and dark wood finishes complemented by an interesting collection of arty bric-a-brac. The food is a mixed bag; a few of the more straightforward dishes are unlikely to set expat pulses racing but there are still a handful of more imaginative dishes that stand out. For example, the calamari fritti (B235) is just too basic for a place that can afford to be more ambitious. The prawn mango and avocado salad (B265) is more like it, delivering a balance of tanginess and natural seafood flavour in each mouthful. There’s some complexity there without being over-the-top – this is what Hugo does well. Equally innovative is the cornflakes salmon (B465), which combines the Norwegian produce with a crispy cornflake crust, served on a bed of creamy leeks and a ratatouille taken from the Pixar movie of the same name. There is a 70 | J U N E 2014
sense here of joyous experimentation; of fun food done well. Hugo would be improved if they were able to pare their menu down to a handful of signatures like this rather than padding it unnecessarily with less memorable dishes. The duck confit (B395), for example, lacks the same zing. There’s a slight stodginess to the mushroom fritter, while the watercress and balsamic sauce don’t have the desired effect. The duck itself is excellent, tender and moist, but that extra element required to further elevate the dish isn’t quite there. Fortunately, the desserts are top-notch. The red velvet lava (B295) is a lip-smacking pile of gooey sauce while the half baked (B295) combines an oversized cookie with melting ice cream. It’s the kind of ending that engenders goodwill in customers and Hugo has plenty of that, even if the menu could be a little more adventurous in places. BY TOM STURROCK
hugo
[MAP 3/U6]
39 Ekamai Soi 12 | 02-713-1292 facebook.com/hugobarbkk | 11am-1am
bangkok101.com
san.pellegrino recommends
FOOD & DRIN K
EL GAUCHO
- Flame-grilled goodness Bangkok is a long way from the steakhouses and parilla bars of Buenos Aires but at El Gaucho on Soi 19, meatlovers can still find that authentically Argentinian taste of flame-grilled goodness. El Gaucho boasts an expansive interior, spread over two low-lit storeys of dark wood and exposed brickwork. It’s a perfect setting for a glass or two of red wine and, as luck would have it, El Gaucho has a stacked cellar, balanced nicely between familiar names and less-known drops from the new world. They start at B290 for a glass of Argentinian Malbec and range all the way up to B15,000 for a bottle of Tuscan Temperanillo. Suffice to say, there are plenty of interesting options in between, no matter your budget. The steaks are obviously the main attraction here but the menu also does a decent job of showcasing some other aspects of the Argentinian kitchen. In particular, the chicken empanadas (B210) make a moreish appetiser, while the salchicha (B270) is a deliciously spicy serving of homemade sausage. And if you need your fix of cheese, don’t go past
the provoleta (B390) – a plate of grilled, gooey goodness seasoned with oregano and olive oil that goes perfectly with a chunk of crusty bread. If you fancy trying the steak but feel like mixing it in with some greenery, there’s an arugula salad (B690) which combines sirloin slices with leaves and parmesan, all seasoned with a drizzle of balsamic. But ultimately, the prime cuts of red meat loom large. You can pick your own variety – whether it’s Black Angus or USDA Prime – but there really are no wrong answers here and the prices range from B990-6290. For us, it was hard to go past the American entrecote, served medium, with a selection of delicious mustards, although these cuts are just fine on their own.
el gaucho
[MAP 3/h9]
8/1-7 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 02-255-2864 elgaucho.asia | Noon-midnight
TO ENHANCE GREAT FOODS CHOOSE THE FINE DINING WATERS ACQUA PANNA AND S. PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. Sanpellegrino Asia| sanpellegrino@sanpellegrino.com.sg Distributed by Vanichwathana (Bangkok) Co Ltd. Thailand | Tel. +66 22215354
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 71
FOOD & DRIN K
review
hyde & seek - Gorgeous gastrobar Tucked into its dedicated space out the front of the Athenee Residence, Hyde & Seek has cultivated its own niche as a superior gastrobar that delivers on both its drinks and food. The cocktails, in particular, draw a varied after-work crowd to the stools that surround the chunky bar. And the drinks here are made with real flair. Try the Day Dreams, which combines Ketel One vodka, maraschino liqueur and water melon, with a fruity frozen crumble – or ‘snow’. Or the Naughty Little Girl, a mixture of Gordon’s gin, homemade wine, Grand Marnier, citrus and bitter orange. It’s an old-fashioned tipple with a modern twist and presentation. And, naturally, with such an extensive cocktail list, there needs to be some substantial food to soak up the booze. Hyde & Seek’s menu veers toward gourmet bar food with a modern European bent, executed in a straightforward but superior manner. For example, the Bangers Inc (B210), a plate of pork sausages served with a Dijon-yoghurt sauce and horseradish, is the kind of snack you might expect a chef to knock up on a Sunday afternoon after cherry-picking the tasting bits and pieces from a farmers market. Among the salads, the My Way; English or Not (B210) combines egg-purse, apple-wood lardons and cinnamon vinaigrette. There’s also a hint of truffle, completing a uniquely rich set of flavours in this kind of dish. 72 | J U N E 2014
Another stand-out starter is the duck leg confit (B280), topped with tamarind glaze, seasonal greens and chilli. There’s a hint of Thai flavours here, a welcome nod to the locale, offset by Hyde & Seek’s very British decor. You’ll need an appetite for the mains, though, as they pack some punch. The Yankee beef burger (B395) combines a Wagyu patty, cheese, caramelised shallots and parmesan bun. It’s a seriously satisfying burger, the toppings never overshadoweing the quality of the cut. Equally indulgent is the pork belly (B395), lovingly braised for 12 hours so that it almost resembles a smoked ham. It comes topped with maple brine, creme fraiche and a confit of pears. If you’re not full, which is hard to believe, the Macchiato Sundae (B210), with coffee ice cream, candied pistachio and Kahlua cream, is a stand-out dessert. BY TOM STURROCK
hyde & seek
[MAP 4/L5]
GF Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee 02-168-5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am
bangkok101.com
review
FOOD & DRIN K
genji - Traditional tastes Japanese food, unlike Thai cuisine, has largely resisted attempts to be updated, modernised or adapted. Perhaps it is because, at the heart of Japanese flavours, there is an elegance that would more easily be lost in that process. Whereas Thai flavours have a resilience that will survive a degree of reworking, the more delicate Japanese notes would not. It is no wonder then that the most renowned Japanese restaurants in Bangkok hew toward the traditional. At these places, there is little desire to revise Japanese style; rather, there is a full-bodied embrace of the time-honoured approach to food. When well-executed, this nostalgia can be a welcome counterpoint to Bangkok’s neophile tendencies; when misjudged, it can make a place feel dated. Genji has been around for more than 30 years and its dark wood furnishings are offset nicely by the flow of natural light from the Swissotel’s garden. A semi-open kitchen occupies pride of place at one end. Here, Genji’s chefs put the finishing touches on the dishes before service. And presentation is crucial to Genji’s overall effect. The Inaniwa onsen tamago (B300, above right) is a light broth with chilled Inaniwa Udon noddles, hard-boiled egg yolk and simmered mushrooms, served on ice in a handmade wooden box. This starter can also be served with a small plate of duck and foie gras, adding an extra dimension to the offset. Another starter, the nasu ankake (B350) combines bangkok101.com
assorted seafood with a homemade sticky sauce on a bed of fried eggplant. The prawns are of top quality, evidenced by their vibrant colours and firm texture, and the soy-based sauce is well-executed. The eggplant, however, doesn’t quite hit the mark. In such instances, Genji could perhaps improve by choosing boldness over refinement. Among the mains, the kodai nitsuke (B2000, main image) is a braised baby bass in a sweet sauce mixed with vegetables and tofu. The price tag may raise some eyebrows but the presentation is impressive and the natural seafood flavour of the fish is expertly preserved. Among the desserts, the homemade custard (B150) is a little plain, served without adornment or anything to deliver balance, epitomising Genji’s preference for authenticity over real deliciousness. BY TOM STURROCK
genji
[MAP 4/k2]
GF Swissotel Nai Lert Park, 2 Wireless Rd | 02-655-4265 genji-restaurant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm
J U N E 2014 | 73
FOOD & DRIN K
in the kitchen
tim butler talks to Howard Richardson
Chef Tim Butler ties a black apron over his army camouflage trousers to match his black T-shirt and gets down to business. He runs his eye over three pieces of Iberico pork: “Off-cuts called secreto – kind of like the shoulderblade muscle, but because Iberico is so heavily marbled it’s a really nice cut. We serve it medium rare.” He sprinkles the pork with salt and pepper and leaves it to sit while he prepares the accompanying roasted corn and bacon hash. Tim – schooled in New York and Los Angeles alongside masters like Daniel Boulud, at Daniel and Marcus Samuelsson, at Aquavit – grabbed 37th spot recently for his restaurant Eat Me in the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards. He’s giving me a close-up view of working life inside his narrow kitchen. Into a sauté pan of hot olive oil, he tosses a handful of wild hedgehog mushrooms from France: “Any mushrooms will do. We’re just using these because they’re in season.” There’s an immediate sizzle and brief leaping flames, and after five minutes they’re beautifully golden brown. “Without that colour, you don’t get the same flavour,” he says, turning down the heat and adding diced onion, Parma ham, tomatoes and capsicum, which was pre-grilled to char before the skin was peeled off. Corn kernels follow, also pregrilled in the husk until black. Tim gives a chefly pan-flip, and the ingredients cascade through the air. Then he adds “a lot” of melted butter and whole cherry tomatoes ripped apart by hand. 74 | J U N E 2 0 1 4
Meanwhile, the pork goes on the grill, filling the room immediately with a mouthwatering smell of scorching meat. Garlic puréed with paprika, covering the well of a small metal side dish, also hits the grill, and when it’s cooked through, Tim lays the pork in to coat on both sides – “a quick marinade”. He finishes the hash with a dash of tabasco and fresh lime. To serve, the pork lays on top of the salad with a sprinkle of chopped parsley and smoked olive oil to intensify the charcoal. Everything is glistening – the hash from lashings of butter, the pork from melted fat and marinade. Appetising grill lines enhance the powerful smoky flavour of grilling, paprika and olive oil; the tabasco and lime give a lift against the sweet corn in the hash. This is a good hearty plate, sporting 220 grams of rich meat: “A southern States kind of dish.” It’s a pleasure in these days of ubiquitous tasting menus to get an old-school dinner experience. It’s a pleasure, too, to dine at Eat Me, as your eye runs around their latest art exhibition. And it’s one of the few places in town you can drop into and still order at 1am. Maybe that’s why they don’t open for lunch.
eat me
[MAP 5/j6]
1/6 Piphat Soi 2, off Convent Rd | 02-238-0931 eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm-1am
bangkok101.com
ealtike
Nym
B
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
oyster omelettes
angkok always surprises me. Like seeing a rainbow at night, the impossible is possible in Bangkok, especially when talking about food. One night, when exploring around Charoenkrung Rd in Chinatown, I came across a Chinese opera playing in a narrow alley. The symphony of colour created by the players’ costumes combined with the dramatic stage backdrop was surprising enough but that was just the beginning. In a nearby side street, a little food cart, swathed in smoke and the unmistakeable smell of a red-hot wok, lured me away from the drama onstage towards a different kind of gastronomic opera. Mr Weng is the man behind this deliciousness. He is famous for his crispy omelette oyster, or hoy tod, which he has been turning out for more more than 50 years. Normally, he is to be found on Soi 29 at the beginning of the bridge but on this night he had been drawn away from his usual spot by the thrill of the opera. His speciality dish is a mix of flour, oysters and eggs all fried together like an omelette. But the secret to getting this dish just right lies in finding the perfect balance between these simple ingredients. His hoy tod is famous among locals because of its crunchiness,
bangkok101.com
crispiness and the sweet aroma that emanates from the mix of fish sauce and white pepper. His other secret is the cooking oil: in place of ordinary vegetable oil he uses lard (known in Thai as nam mun moo), mixed with garlic and fish sauce. Mr Weng has the timing of true master. He flips the hoy tod at precisely the right moment before adding a sprinkling of beansprouts. Check it out: Mr Weng sets up his shop in front of Charoenkrung 29 after sunset and stays until almost midnight every day except Sunday.
J U N E 2014 | 75
FOOD & DRIN K
listings modern, international cuisine, there is also a section of the menu for Thai food “of today” and “of tomorrow”.
Chili Hip [MAP 8/l12]
Chili Hip
THAI blue elephant Restaurant & Cooking School [MAP 5/d7] 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm The Blue Elephant brand has been wildly successful since it was first established in 1980, introducing Thai food to the world through restaurants dotted all over the place, including those in London, Paris and Dubai. And, of course, there’s one in Bangkok, just under Surasak BTS in a gorgeous oldfashioned Thai building. When you take in the traditional interior, it’s no surprise that Blue Elephant’s food is most confidently presented when they are hewing toward cuisine that, as categorised on their menu, derives from “Thai cooking of the past”. The massaman lamb (B580) is immaculately presented with a sweet, fragrant sauce, while the tom jiew kai (B240) has all the restorative powers of chicken soup, with a delciously peppery aftertaste added for good measure. However, Blue Elephant is not content to let the grass grow under them and that’s why, perhaps sensing that Thai food has increasingly been adapted into a more
76 | J U N E 2014
Centara Watergate Pavilion Hotel, 567 Ratchaprop Rd | 02-625-1234 centarahotelsresorts.com | 5pm-11pm daily Chili Hip enjoys wide, unobstructed views from its perch over Pratunam, and the menu consists mostly of authentic Thai and Asian flavours. There is almost no covered seating, so bear that in mind when the rains come. The restaurant does offer one private, fourseat, air-conditioned room enclosed in glass walls, perfect for a small party. Menu standouts include the spicy salmon tartar with fried sticky rice (B260). The fish is prepared with just the right mix of lime, chili, mint and coriander, while the sticky rice adds a nice texture. The hot kimchi and tofu soup is another notable choice, not too spicy but with a deliciously sour broth. The steamed seabass fillet with coconut likewise draws high praise, recalling a good tom kha soup, only with less liquid. Sticky rice cakes again provide a nice substitute to a side plate of rice. But the best dish, in our opinion, is the duck-stuffed ravioli with red curry sauce, a selection that should be ordered “extra spicy”.
Jim Thompson House and Museum [MAP 4/A3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | 02-612-3601 jimthompson.com | Noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm Pity the hungry tourist who arrives at the Jim Thompson house hoping for authentic Thai food. Or so you would think – believe it or not, our number two tourist attraction is
Paste home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous, silk-and-fabric strewn setting with some surprisingly unusual Thai food. Add drinkable white or red house wine at B200 a glass, and a daily 4:30-7:30pm happy hour (buy one get one on house wine and draught beer) and there’s absolutely no reason to be sniffy about the place. There are typical Thai dishes, yes, but there are also lots that aren’t. For a new taste sensation try the intensely spiced sang wah goong kub pla duke foo, also known as oldfashioned grilled prawn salad with traditional herbs, fresh vegetables and crispy catfish. Not only is this dish served in an intricately carved pumpkin, but each and every condiment is prepared with an artistic flair that does late silk tycoon Jim Thompson’s artistic legacy proud.
PASTE [MAP 3/P6] 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-392-4313 pastebangkok.com | Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late It’s possible for passersby to miss this new addition to Bangkok’s cosmopolitan dining scene, tucked to one side of soi 49 in the backstreets of Thong Lor. But if the entrance is easily overlooked, the modern Thai food inside is unlikely to be forgotten.
bangkok101.com
listings Rock
For entrees, the dry-spiced chilli squid, topped with vinegar and tomato relish (B240) is a winner. Among the mains, the prime cuts of Australian red meat stand out invitingly from the local produce – the braised beef ribs with ginger rice, tamarind leaves and mushroom soy (B380) are perfect if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The roast duck salad with lychee and Vietnamese mint (B380) packs an immediate punch but it is the hint of banana blossom that delivers a surprising, sensational finish. And then there is the tamarind and caramel pork belly with moonflower, red okra and green chilli pickle (400). It’s an inspired combination, the pork belly coming apart effortlessly while its outer layer retains a rainbow of flavours, its richness lightened perfectly by the moonflower and okra.
Rock Restaurant & Bar [MAP 8/l7] 7/1 Soi Chumnanaaksorn, Phanonyothin Soi 9 0826-888-200 | Facebook: Rock-Restaurantand-Bar | Mon-Sat 5.30pm-midnight Occupying a converted two-storey house tucked away at the end of a quiet soi within walking distance of BTS Ari, Rock takes its name from the restaurant’s main interior motif: large, natural boulders that have been carefully sculpted and polished to support
glass tabletops. Track-lit, dark-hued walls define the urban-casual cocktail lounge ambience. It almost comes as a surprise to find that this inviting lounge-like space also boasts such a talented kitchen team. Under the creative direction of female chef Nhoi Ouypornchaisakul, who has a strong interest in healthy, organic ingredients, the kitchen fashions dishes originating primarily from Thailand, Myanmar and Yunnan. Here they’ve been reformed and re-booted in a way Thai politics can only dream about. Particularly impressive are the appetisers, which come in three sizes and three prices to match appetite and pocketbook. The Crab cream cheese wafers are crispy crepe-like shells of Thai khanom buang with fresh blue crab, cream cheese, green onion and a light sweet-and-sour sauce. Order the large plate, as they disappear quickly.
sala rattanakosin bangkok [MAP 7/c12]
39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island 02-231-2588 | salarattanakosin.com 7am-10pm With vistas not only across the river to Wat Arun but also towards the spires of Wat Pho and the Grand Palace, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. Later, head down to the two-storey restaurant, and, if possible, grab a window table upstairs or beside the river on the wooden deck outside. Executive Chef Tony Wrigley describes his menu as comfort food and that pretty much fits the bill. Typical Thai dishes include tempura fried soft shell crab (B290), with a strong zip of sour and spice in green mango
FOOD & DRIN K
Sala Rattanakosin salad that cuts through the crispy batter, and the northern Thai favourite khao soy (B280). The latter has a thicker, more curry-like consistency than usual and the complexity loses out slightly to the more dominant palm sugar in a heavily reduced sauce. The menu has fewer Euro items but there are good flavours to the twice-cooked crispy pork belly (B590).
american BOURBON STREET [MAP 8/S16] 9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekamai | 02-381-6801 | bourbonstbkk.com 7am-1am New Orleans, the Big Easy, is famed for many things – its music, its nightlife and, of course, its distinctive Cajun food. There are bits and pieces borrowed from western Europe, particularly France and Spain, mixed up in a giant gumbo pot with Creole – itself a mixture of European and African-American influences - and infused with the brassy flavours of the American south. For the uninitiated, it’s a baffling cuisine, partly because it hasn’t been exported wholesale from Louisiana to the rest of the world.
49 Sukhumvit soi 49 - Terrace 49 Building 2nd floor - reservation +6622041731
LA
OTTEGA
private wine room - open lunch and dinner bangkok101.com
www.labottega.name
Photografy for La Bottega by Studio NUMA J U N E 2014 | 7 7
FOOD & DRIN K
listings
Bourbon Street
The menu is vast, so fortunately the proprietor, Doug, who has been preaching the Cajun gospel in Bangkok for 30-odd years, is on-hand to offer his recommendations. No Cajun banquet is complete without a gumbo, which, on first appearance, looks like a simple working man’s stew - in Cajun cuisine, gumbo is a versatile dish that can contain more or less whatever the chef fancies. Here, it’s chicken and sausage (B140) in a rich broth – whatever spices or thickeners are being expertly employed at Bourbon Street, the flavour jumps off the spoon.
moulin [MAP 3/r8] No.88 Thong Lor Soi 5 | 02-712-9348 moulinsquare.com | 5.30pm-11pm, Fri-Sun also 5.30-11pm It’s hard to know quite what to expect from this newish arrival to the backstreets of Thong Lor, with a menu that shoots off in a few different directions and a setting that has spliced together a whirlwind of cabaret trimmings. This lack of a clearly identifiable theme may throw some diners but the food – broadly defined as trendy New York fare, channelling the foodie diversity of that city – does not disappoint in the slightest. If you start with the crispy crab cakes with
78 | J U N E 2014
mango salad (B420) the Big Apple vibe rings clear enough but the scallop carpaccio (main image, B340), served with fresh fruit and chocolate sauce, sets the mind spinning all over. Scallops in chocolate sauce? Crazier still is that it really works. Among the mains, the pan-fried blackened seabass served with dirty rice (B480) takes diners from the east coast on a trip to the Cajun south, helped on the way by the spicy shrimp gumbo (B380). In a menu that’s heavy on experimentation, the gumbo is brilliantly authentic and is worth the visit on its own.
CHINESE IMPERIAL CHINA [MAP 3/M11] Imperial Queens Park Hotel, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-261-9000 | imperialhotels.com/ imperialqueenspark | 7am-10pm You might think you have a pretty firm idea about Chinese food – after all, it’s one of the most widely available cuisines all around the world, and is everywhere in Bangkok. Still, if this city has one constant – apart from the traffic – it is surely it’s ability to surprise and the expertly prepared offerings at Imperial China might force you to rethink what you think you know about Chinese food. If you’re after a Cantonese feast, there’s plenty on offer – we’ll get to that – but if you fancy the lighter fare, then the dim sum is sensational; the light, bite-sized portions or ornate seafood and pork will have you and your friends fighting each other for control of the Lazy Susan. As delicious as the dim sum is, it’s the main courses where Chef Chu really fires –
Mandopop
everyone is familiar with spring rolls, but the ones at Imperial China, made with snowfish and avocado, (B750) are unlike any you’ve had previously, the ingredients off-setting each other perfectly and the texture of the pastry exquisite.
mandopop [MAP 4/k6] Oriental Residence Bangkok, 110 Wireless Rd | 02-252-8001 | mandopop-bangkok.com 5pm-midnight The steamed scallop dumplings (B160) come wrapped in the thinnest wonton, one side tinted purple with beetroot and the other green with spinach. It’s a dish with very little margin for error – eating it is also a test of one’s chopsticks skills – but the crucial scallop flavour is never overwhelmed by the seasoning. The pan-seared foie gras served with crispy duck skin (B450) is perhaps even more ambitious, served on a bed of curd and cress with a drizzle of sweet chilli and mango dressing (above right). It’s a perfect balance of flavours and textures, the velvety richness of the foie gras offset perfectly by the crunch of the duck skin, mixed in with the spice and joyous zing of the dressing. An absolute triumph. This brings us to the mains – often the
bangkok101.com
listings Shang Palace
stumbling block for restaurants pushing a modern concept. The tenderloin beef in black pepper sauce (B550) is well-executed in its own right – the meat is tender and gives off exactly the right tangy bite that customers expect from this dish.
the mayflower [MAP 8/k16] Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 02-200-9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm At The Mayflower, the flagship Cantonese restaurant at the Dusit Thani Bangkok, authenticity is the name of the game and the results are delicious. You’ve probably seen the liquid-centred buns with salted egg in the centre in various places around Bangkok – even, gasp, in 7-11 and other convenience stores. Of course, there’s none of that at The Mayflower, their gourmet version making a perfect starter (fried or steamed for B150). The minced shrimp roll comes out wrapped in nori, and topped with ikura, which is salmon roe (B180). But it’s quickly overshadowed by the one-two punch of steamed snowfish with miso sauce (B180) and the crispy scallop, shrimp and crab roll wrapped in seaweed (B150). The popularity of snowfish seems to have skyrocketed in recent years and it is a natural fit for Asian flavours – it retains its light taste and texture while also offsetting more potent seasonings.
shang palace [MAP 8/f17] 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 02-236-7777 | shangri-la.com 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is flawlessly elegant and, even more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. Throughout, the food is low on oil, delivering delicate flavours while still being immensely satisfying. The dim sum is the obvious place to start – the scallop siew mai (B120, left bottom) and the deep-fried shrimp and sesame spring rolls (B90) offer both sweet and salty taste, the scallops deliciously tender while the spring rolls add some crunch. The crispy barbecue pork buns (B80) are also a winner, bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRIN K
the pastry bursting coming apart to expose the grilled, saucy goodness. But the signature dish is undoubtedly the Beijing roast duck (B1900) that is enough to feed four people and comes in two separate dishes. First, the skin comes off and is served with thin pancakes, green onion and plum sauce. The duck meat is then taken away and minced or stir-fried before returning to the table, seasoned with pine nuts and egg yolk.
FRENCH chez pape [MAP 3/f9] 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 02-255-2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed but that’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine. Rather, there are enough surprises, both in terms of the combinations and the presentation to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. Starting with the appetisers, there is a ceviche of barracuda in chilli and citrus (B160) or the tartare of avocado, crab and green apple (above right, B200), both hitting the right notes: light, fresh, seafood flavours offset with the right amount of seasonings. But perhaps it’s in the more provincial dishes that Chez Pape declares its hand, offering a port-marinated foie gras terrine, served with toast and mango marmalade (B285). The early courses are certainly impressive enough to build expectation for the mains without being so concept-heavy that they create confusion. The pan-seared beef flank, an exquisite cut of meat, comes with goat-cheese ravioli and garnished with virgin sauce (B450) – it’s a deeply satisfying combination.
l’appart [MAP 3/g9] 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi | 085-924-1565 | sofitel.com 7pm-midnight L’Appart, on the top floor of the Sofitel on Sukhumvit embraces the aesthetic of a Parisian apartment with such conviction that you could ride a bicycle, balancing a baguette on the handlebars, between some tables. Chef Jeremy Tourret may be every inch the French master cook but that hasn’t prevented him taking some intriguing chances, adapting a traditional cuisine to J U N E 2014 | 79
FOOD & DRIN K
listings
Gaggan
create an adventurous menu. The absolute staples are still represented – frog legs with leek and truffle (B480) and a spectacular bouillabaisse (onion soup) with rock fish, puff Japanese pearl and rouille sauce (B550; right).Tourret has dialled down the salt for the Asian palate, with the added benefit of making room for the more complex flavours he has included. He takes it to the next step in the mains. His pan-fried snow fish comes with cauliflower mousseline and Madras curry (B1300) – that’s right, curry. It seems risky and may outrage traditionalists but it is testament to Tourret’s technique and imagination that it works.
INDIAN gaggan [MAP 8/l14] 68/1 Soi Langsuan | 02-652-1700 eatatgaggan.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm11.30pm Indian cuisine, perhaps more than any other, has been pigeonholed, locked into a narrow idea of heavy curries and spicy tandooris. It’s an inadequate concept, of course, and Gaggan Anand, through his stunningly unique restaurant in Langsuan, makes one of the most urgent cases for these definitions to be reconsidered. The reality is that, at Gaggan, flavours can be drawn from anywhere – as long as they work, there’s little formal structure about what’s allowed to go together. Perhaps the most interesting way to experience Gaggan’s always delicious, often offbeat repertoire is through one of the tasting menus (B1600, B2600 or B4000). One of the more surprising combinations comes out relatively early – it’s called Viagra, freshly shucked French oysters served with kokam nectar and Indian mustard ice cream, and somehow works despite ingredients that don’t intuitively go together. The Egyptian Secret uses foie gras, red onion chutney and raspberry powder to equally stunning effect, the flavours so well-judged that your taste buds are pulled in different directions in one mouthful. 80 | J U N E 2014
indus [MAP 3/p12] 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | 02-258-4900 indusbangkok.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm Indian restaurants sometimes run the risk of being slightly same-same – from the decor to the flavours, there seems to be a formula that works and plenty of places are happy to march to the same tune. The most gratifying thing about Indus is that it makes certain well-judged departures – there’s a decidedly modern, well-lit interior with sweeping views of their garden dining area, as well as a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect from Indian food while dialling down the stodge and oiliness that sometimes accompany it. Still, it begins traditionally enough, with a tandoori platter, including a creamy broccoli (B190), chicken in yoghurt and Shahi Jeera (B320) and tiger prawns in Kashmiri chilli paste, garlic, ginger and coriander. It all comes out with that slightly charred goodness that is the hallmark of Tandoori. Among the curries, the old favourites are also the stand-outs. If there’s a signature dish, though, it’s the raan. It’s part of an inspired selection of kebabs and requires 24 hours’ advance notice.
rang mahal [MAP 3/k11] 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 02-261-7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm Among the appetisers, the papri chaat (B175) and Punjabi samosa (B190) are relatively straightforward but the well-judged lightness and the fact the doughiness is not overdone mean these bite-sized dishes whet the appetite. Proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs come out. The tandoori prawn (B295 per piece, main) is smoked to perfection in Indian spices, while the murgh malai (B425) combines chicken and cream cheese for an extra kick. The house specialty, though, is the raan-e-khyber (B950 for half, B1595 for whole) – a leg of lamb marinated in rum, herbs and spices before being barbecued. It’s an impressive dish, rustic in appearance but perfectly executed, the chunks of lamb peeling effortlessly from the bone, sweet and smokey at the same time. The curries are equally successful in delivering a heightened version of familiar dishes. The Goan fish curry (B495) combines a lightly sautéed fish seasoned with a fragrant mix of onions, garlic and spices, cooked in a sauce of tomatoes and coconut gravy, the flavours deftly balanced against each other.
Indus
INTERNATIONAL cellar 11 wine bar & bistro [MAP 3/f7]
71/1 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255-5833 cellar11.com | 6pm-midnight The menu is essentially European, drawing mostly from French and Italian, neither entirely traditional nor rushing headlong into new-fangled techniques for the sake of it. For example, the scallop cappuccino (B580) comes with morel, champignon and porcini mushrooms. There’s a trend to increasingly match scallops with lighter flavours, sometimes sweeter or citrus-based, but the seasoning here is a reassuring return to a warmer, earthier mix. Conversely, the Toulouse foie gras (B620) is dressed with a choice of peach, raspberry or porto sauce. But it’s even more traditional fare that really impresses – the onion soup (B260) is one of the most familiar staples of any French kitchen but it is elevated here by the addition of chicken stock to add texture and a layer of gruyere cheese to add bite. Belying its simply presentation, the taste is exquisite. Similarly, the angel hair sea urchin pasta (B950) is straightforward enough but the taste of fresh sea urchin is one of the most memorable aspects of the meal.
CREPES & Co [Map 8/L14] 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Road, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) | 02-6520208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options – try the eggplant caviar – but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Josephine (B170), which is a straightforward combination of sugar and lemon zest. But if you’ve got a major sweet bangkok101.com
listings
Hemingway’s tooth, you’ll likely move on to the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging with vanilla ice cream and lathered in rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B290), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sautee apple and rum raisin ice cream. And then they set that baby on fire.
hamilton’s steak house [MAP 8/k16]
Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd 02-200-9000 dusit.com | 6.30pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm Hamilton’s expansive windows overlook the Dusit Thani’s swimming pool and while the unruly mass of jungle ferns offer some pleasant greenery, they do little to present natural light flooding into the interior. It’s an undeniably pleasant spot to sit down for a few glasses of wine over lunch: clean lines and comfort, straightforward without feeling routine, low-key without feeling empty. Of course, the interior counts for little if the food doesn’t stack up but Hamilton’s passes with flying colours on that score. For a steak house, Hamilton’s puts together a surprisingly interesting seafood selection – you can go all out with a combined platter of lobster, oysters, crab legs and prawns (B220 for four; B3300 for six). Or, if your appetite is a little more modest, try the crab cakes (main, middle left) served with spicy dressing and pickled vegetables (B550) or the red snapper tiradito (B415) rinsed with chilli, lime, sea salt, coriander and cucumber. Tiradito, by the way, is a kind of Peruvian carpaccio that also reflects the Japanese influence.
HEMINGWAY’S [MAP 3/J10] Sukhumvit Soi 14 | 02-653 3900 | hemingwaysbangkok.com | 11:30am-late (kitchen closes 10:45pm) Choosing Ernest Hemingway as a concept for your bar-restaurant may not be the most original idea but the archetypal He-Man is associated with so many locations – from the Spanish Civil War to hunting rhinos in bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRIN K
the Serengeti – that he gives you plenty to play with. It’s ideal fodder to fill this sprawling 1920s-style golden teak house. We chose (very) dirty Tanqueray martinis from a long drink list (B195), including special cocktails (B220) and beers from their own system served at a reliable minus-two degree. There are 20 or so wines (B1000-B2400 a bottle), including eight by the glass (B150-B350). The food menu moves from bar snacks – try the tasty and tender chilli salt-fried squid with Hemingway’s own tartar sauce (B165) – through soups, entrées and New York pizzas. Among the short list of mains are sea bass with Hemingway’s oyster and absinthe broth, steamed mussels and braised lettuce (B450) and grass-fed lava coal Australia grilled sirloin with sautéed kale, hand-cut chunky fries with a choice of sauce. Finish with a very more-ish butterscotch pot au cream with hazelnut praline (B200). This is a classy venue with good drinks and upper-end pub grub.
Park Society [MAP 5/M7] Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 02-624-0000 | 5pm-1am (bar), 6pm-10pm (restaurant) A large walk-in kitchen as you enter has a generous chef’s table stacked with cured meats, where you can choose to dine. It leads to a curiously shaped dining space with those beautiful views through full wall windows. The walls themselves and ceiling are rhomboid mirrored panels reflecting Victorian style lamps, hexagonal marble dining tables and waiters in Christian Lacroix-designed, Thai-influenced uniforms, complete with cummerbunds, knee socks and traditional wide-thighed pantaloons. The whole has an almost art deco angularity, the effect pleasantly disorienting, like a fairground hall of mirrors. The modern international menu changes daily according to available produce and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items like oysters (six for B700), Hokkaido scallops (B900) and Aran Valley caviar (B4,999 for 30g). Mains are well presented, the off-kilter square plates adorned with smears and blobs of colourful purée are an arty backdrop for dishes like pigeon with gnocchi and baby vegetables (B1400/half, B2600/ whole). The well chosen wine list, with most bottles between B2000 and B4000, has 12 wines and four sparkling by the glass. To finish, there’s a choice of three desserts or cheese plates. J U N E 2014 | 81
FOOD & DRIN K
listings
Tables
tables [MAP 4/g5] Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd 02-254-1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants and the menu takes full advantage of the theatre. There are wooden floors, potted plants, oxidised mirrors and, high on the walls, larger-than-life cartoonish figures of waiters that lighten the formality. And, despite being a mezzanine restaurant overlooking the colossal pillars in the Erawan’s classically themed lobby, the only overspill of noise is the pleasant bubbling of water from fountains and a jazz trio playing on the landing. The menu is billed as pan-European and starts with items like meaty and sweet sautéed scallops (B750) balanced by chorizo and the sharp bite of wholegrain mustard and olives. The Caesar salad (B490) is wisely light on dressing so it doesn’t overwhelm the crispy leaves, grown at the Hyatt’s organic farm in Korat. Other classic dishes are the Boston lobster bisque (B850), which is perhaps a little too creamy, and the steak au poivre (B1300), cooked in the oven but finished in full view, flambéed in cognac and served under a beautiful rich sauce.
The District [MAP 3/S10] Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 02-797-0000 | marriott.com 6pm-11pm The name of the restaurant refers to New York’s meat packing district – that shines through in the menu but also in the impressive cocktails. They haven’t limited themselves to pink and fruity, which is a relief, instead coming up with some bold offerings, like the Boss’s Daughter, rum, amaretto, bitters and lemonade, and the Midnight Snack, whiskey, snap liqueur, demerara syrup and egg white (both B270). The highlight at The District, though, is undoubtedly the seafood. The Ice District Heights, main picture, is a jumble of lobster, prawns, oysters, scallops and crab (B2900), 82 | J U N E 2014
enough to look after a group who feel like sampling a bit of everything. The absolute showstopper, though, are the scallops (B850), a shining example of The District’s straightforward approach and presentation concealing the exacting standards behind the scenes. They come out as an appetiser-sized serving but they could serve them by the bucket and there would be no complaints. The Australian lamb rack (B980 – above) is succulent and expertly seasoned and the Tasmanian salmon (B690) has a freshness that fills your nostrils the moment it arrives at the table.
prime [MAP 8/e16] Millennium Hilton Hotel, 123 Charoennakorn Rd | 02-442-2020 facebook.com/primesteakhouse.mhb 6pm-11pm Once upon a time, going to a steakhouse for dinner – even an upscale steakhouse – meant being confronted with an endless list of cuts of beef in different shapes and sizes and pedigrees. Although Prime still boasts an enviable selection of red meat, cooked on a woodfired grill that also allows them to infuse the meat with certain flavours, they’ve diversified impressively. There’s a signature Caesar salad (B450) prepared theatrically at the table, although the Waldorf salad (B450) looks more interesting. But it’s the seafood that makes Prime’s ambitions clear. From the caramelised Hokkaido scallops (B890) with celery variations, couscous and apple vinaigrette, to the wood-burned Japanese octopus (B790) with arugula and chickpeas, there’s a refinement of technique and willingness to embrace challenging combinations. It’s a welcome sophistication, befitting the sweeping views over the Chao Praya. As for the steaks, prices range from B1750 to B4350, all served suitably flame-grilled. There’s the option to add bone marrow, organic eggs or blue cheese, as well as some more exotic sauces, like bordelaise or pommery mustard.
sirocco [MAP 5/c5] 63/F Tower Club at Lebua, Silom Road 02-624-9550 | lebua.com/sirocco | 6pm-1am There’s no getting around the obvious at a place like Sirocco – no matter how wellmade the cocktails or impressive the food, the view is undeniably the star of the show. Perched like a bird’s nest in the crook of an enormous tree, Sirocco offers a panoramic view of the Chao Praya River and Bangkok’s
DiVino entire southern sweep. Hanging out at the Sky Bar as the shadows lengthen stirs the irresistible feeling that one has truly arrived in Bangkok. To the food, Sirocco’s menu could be broadly described as modern European, with an emphasis on quality produce and presentation. For example, the jumbo prawn (B990) is so massive it comes out in its own glass jar, eventually served with lemongrass, pomelo salad and orange-ginger sauce. The prawn, presumably wild, is one of the firmest, freshest pieces of seafood around. The foie gras (B990) is also first-rate, alongside a brulee and nuts crumble, terrine and banyuls jelly, with a serve of ginger bread. You might also be tempted by the Alaskan scallop (B1090) served with sautee sugar snaps, Pernod sauce and ossetra caviar.
ITALIAN divino [MAP 3/r6] Penny’s Balcony, Thong Lor Soi 16 02-714-8723 | divinobkk.com 5pm-midnight, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm It’s a curious little set-up, the restaurant split between three rooms that share one corner of Penny’s Corner up in Thong Lor. One section is for private dining, another is filled with stools and high tables, while the newish wine room is a sit-down affair, the walls lined with bottles of gorgeous Italian vino. To get the balling rolling, DiVino offers a selection of cheese (B790 for six different pieces) or imported cold cuts (B700 for the most generous serving). So there’s enough variety there to keep customers happy if they just fancy a bottle of wine over a few shared platters but the main courses raise the stakes in a way that fancier, more concept-heavy places don’t always manage. It’s hard to recall pasta being this exciting. The linguine with Alaskan crab meat (B420) is a lighter affair – let’s not go too far and call it delicate – while the linguine all’astice (B580) is their signature dish containing half a Boston lobster, dripping in one of those bolshy Italian sauces bangkok101.com
listings
Rossini’s that looks simple but isn’t. Among the prime cuts of meat, the Australian beef tenderloin with a porcini mushroom sauce (B850) is impressive.
La Bottega di Luca [MAP 3/P8] The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 02-204-1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm Nestled in a smallish mall on soi 49, La Bottega di Luca is an immediately welcoming space, effortlessly combining indoor-outdoor seating and cultivating a relaxed vibe that makes it a neighbourhood favourite with real panache. Luca, who runs the show, updates the parts of the menu regularly and orders produce in from Italy fortnightly. The antipasti start at B290 and the grilled scamorza (B390) – that’s smoked mozzarella – wrapped in speck ham with mushrooms and red wine sauce is a delight. There’s a sizeable menu and it can be tricky to know which direction to take. The most eye-catching salad is the seafood combination (B220) with steamed prawns, baby squid, mussels and clams seasoned with garlic. But who are we kidding? We’re here for the rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion. That means it’s hard to go past the homemade pasta that gets freshly made every day – the dishes are reasonably priced at B240-490, although you’ll be shelling out B1790 if you go for the lobster.
ROSSINI’S [MAP 3/h10] Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-653-0333 sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 6pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The decor is steadfastly traditional, designed like the dining room of a medieval Tuscan castle, complete with heavy fireplace, a tiled floor that looks almost cobbled, and wooden beams and domes in the ceiling. The menu, however, has lots of modern touches, while sticking to the flavours of the traditional Italian kitchen. Among the starters, seared goose liver (B790) is a rich pudding of a dish, plated with pumpkin espuma and very sweet amaretti crumble. Black cod (B920) is a good choice for bangkok101.com
the main course: weighty and pure white, it sits like an iceberg in potato foam, with additions of olives and San Daniele ham powder adding salty brine to enhance the sea flavours. The trio of soups are more traditional: Tuscan artichoke, minestrone and seafood with garlic bruschetta (B580), in which a delicate, thin and light-tasting broth has small islands of seabass and a central tower of chunky scallops. Rossini’s has more reasonable wine prices than many restaurants in this bracket, courtesy of its Primo Vino policy, which promises “top shelf wines at cellar prices”.
scalini [MAP 3/n12] Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 02-620 6666 | hilton.com/en Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Bangkok is, naturally enough, best known for its Thai food, with other Asian cuisines not far behind. But these days, European food – French or Italian – is booming, particularly when served with a twist. So it is with Scalini – it’s ostensibly a modern Italian place but it riffs on a New York connection, while borrowing bits and pieces from the international table. So, in short, it’s Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. It’s apparent from the antipastis, which include a tuna and salmon tartar, with lemon aioli, mango salad and seared ciabatta (B450) – retaining a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced combinations. Other dishes stay closer to home, such as the Wagyu beef carpaccio, with porcini salsa, rocket and parmesan, served with white truffle vinaigrette (B570). The rich, satisfying taste of Italian food has an extra layer of complexity. And it’s on show again with the Hokkaido scallops, served here with celery, red onion, tomatoes, basil and cherry vinaigrette (B480).
JAPANESE Elements [MAP 4/L5] Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 02-6879000 | 6pm-10.30pm Elements is an imposing space, where heavy ship’s lanterns loom overhead from a high ceiling lined with the inevitable exposed piping. It’s perhaps a bit large to fit the ‘living room’ atmosphere described in the marketing bumph, despite the sofa style and armchair seating.
FOOD & DRIN K
Scalini To wind down grab a sake cocktail (maybe ‘sakura’, with plum wine, cranberry, and syrups of rose apple and sakura, B350) as you choose from a list billed as ‘modern logical cuisine’, which they translate to me as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into a la carte, with main meat courses largely in the B900-B1500 range, and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option (B1200). We opted for the five-course Moments set (B2400), starting with excellent quality gravlax and lightly smoked tuna with wasabi vinaigrette and soy jelly. Other stand-out dishes included a mushroom infusion poured over sautée mushrooms, hazelnuts and thyme flavoured croutons; and slow cooked wagyu done two ways, as 24-hour sous vide short rib, with truffle mash, celeriac and apple, and beef cheek hachée.
kaguya [MAP 3/r6] The Third Place Building, 137 Thong Lor Soi 10 | 02-714-9974 | facebook.com/ kaguyagastrobar | 5.30pm-1am; Sat-Sun 11am-2pm Also, it’s ostensibly Japanese – this has the advantage of focusing the menu, although there are plenty of dishes that strain at the shackles of narrow ‘cuisine categorisation’. The drinks, first, are excellent – these guys take cocktails seriously, as they should. They’re innovative while keeping the most important principles in mind and there are some interesting results, delivering offset and balance in equal measure, served with a flair for presentation. Take, for example, The Way Of The Samurai (B280): Japanese single malt, yuzu and brown sugar served in a shaker to resemble an armoured samurai, topped with a ‘helmet’ of bitters that drips down during drinking. Full marks. The food presents a more complex equation – the best dishes are also the most conceptually coherent. The sous vide ox tongue with yuzu (B260) is deliciously salty and the yuzu is the perfect twist, while the tuna tartare with homemade nori potato chips (B320) comes with a selection of side seasonings and is ideal for sharing. J U N E 2014 | 83
FOOD & DRIN K
listings beef grilled with miso paste on a magnolia leaf, delivering a tangy smokiness that you’re unlikely to find at any other humble barbecue places. It’s a completely satisfying dish, with enough intriguing undertones to reward every mouthful.
Taihei
taihei [MAP 5/l8] 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm From the moment the platter of sashimi moriawase (B520; left, second-bottom) comes out, prime seafood cuts delicately arranged, it’s clear that there is a real commitment to quality. The presentation is also immaculate, offering a swathe of bright colours – bright pinks and flashes of silvergrey. It’s beautiful food. And it tastes pretty damn fine as well, the tuna, in particular, soft and slightly salty on its own, mild enough to work in the mouth alongside a dab of soy and wasabi. Another highlight is the beef teriyaki (B580), sourced from Australia and broiled, before coming out served with seasonal greens, again bursting with colour. If you’re not super-keen to fill up on red meat, try the gindara miso (B600; left, second top). It’s a cod fish cooked to perfection, kissed on each side just long enough to turn the skin crispy, before being served with tangy miso seasoning. There’s also a selection of tempura to choose from, whether you fancy prawns (B450), pork skewers (B380) or chicken karage (B350).
ten-sui [MAP 3/k11] 33 Soi Sukhumvit 16 | 088-540-1001 tensui.co | 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience – both in terms of the food but also the ambience – than at Ten-Sui. It’s worth noting that this place is highend, with prices to match. The selection of omakase nigiri, for example, goes for B3000. That’s not to say that you have to break the bank here to have an enjoyable meal – you can go for a bento box for B450, which gives you a selection of Japanese goodies, or the special maki (B500). Among the main dishes, the buri nitsuke (B600) is a lip-smacking piece of yellowtail tuna, prepared here with a slightly sweeter, ginger seasoning. But the highlight is probably the beef houba yaki (B500), thinly sliced Australian 84 | J U N E 2014
ytsb [MAP 8/j12] 4F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd 02-309-3939 | facebook.com/YTSB.BKK 6pm-11pm Naturally, you’ll want to start with a cocktail and YTSB – which stands for Yellow Tail Sushi Bar – capitalises on its location in the VIE Hotel. One of the stand-out signature cocktails is the Ginza Strip (B260), which is a dry sake martini, sweetened with basil and topped with a hint of cucumber. It’s refreshing and easy to drink but still with a kick. But it’s all about the sushi here and when the platter of sakura sushi (B1800) arrives, it doesn’t fail to impress. There are some wellexecuted old favourites in there – the yellow tail, the king crab and the giant shrimp – but also a few surprises. The strip of sea eel, for example, has its own distinctive flavour while the sea urchin, wrap up in a seaweed cylinder is rich and delicate all at once. It’s definitely one to eat slowly and savour. The aburi sushi platter (B960) also has an intriguing selection, the blue fin served up lashed with sauce alongside a tender strip of squid.
ZIPANGU [MAP 3/h9] 28/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 02-651-2180 facebook.com/TheZipangu | 6am-2am Among the highlights of the sake menu is the effervescent Mizubasho Pure (B2000, 360ml), a hybrid sake-champagne whose sales in Japan have surged since it was served at a dinner party hosted by the Japanese prime minister. Another sake, Time Machine Vintage (B2400/B300), features a lovely light amber glow and a sweet taste, while Tamagawa Gyoku-ryu JunmaiDaiginjo Yamahai (B3900/B850), fruity and full-bodied, is Zipangu’s most popular sake among Thai and Western customers. Tamagawa Junmai Yamahai non-filter NamaGenshu (B2000/B500), served hot, has a slightly higher alcohol content (20 percent) than the others. Zipangu’s other notable spirits include a delightful light citrus yuzu and a range of Japanese whiskeys. Food standouts – and there are many – include a fried Volcano Roll (B320) filled with salmon and cream cheese, and served with tartar sauce drizzled in soy. The Caesar
Zuma salad roll (thick crispy bacon, crunchy croutons, romaine and Parmesan cheese, rolled inside soft edible rice paper, B290), likewise, had us nodding in admiration. On the traditional side of the menu, you could hardly do better than the black cod fish marinated in miso for three days and then grilled (B490).
Zuma [MAP 4/G6] GF St Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd 02-252-4707 | zumarestaurant.com | 12pm3pm, 6pm-11pm The style and presentation of the dishes is unmistakably contemporary – authentic but not traditional – exemplified by a particularly snazzy range of cocktails, including the Rubabu (B295), which blends sake and vodka with fresh passionfruit, and a spectacular lychee rose martini. The technique required to execute the smaller dishes is truly impressive and, because of Zuma’s three open kitchens, customers can watch the chefs at work. There are several highlights, though, including the sliced yellowtail served with green chilli relish, ponzu and pickled garlic (B410) – the effect is stunning, a mouthful of the most delicately textured seafood packed with light but still intense flavour. No less impressive are the plates of nigiri sushi and selected sashimi (B1100) – Japanese food has become so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget how it’s meant to taste when it’s done with absolute precision and attention to detail. Some diners may be nervous about eating raw beef (B490) but at Zuma, served with citrus dressing, it goes down so well that any apprehension soon evaporates.
mexican EL DIABLO’S [MAP 8/P17] 330 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-663-8646 Tues-Sun 11.30am-11pm Here, at El Diablo’s, the burritos are the stars of the show – quite simply, they’re enormous, ranging from B120 for the basic combination to B225 for the snazzier carne asada – or bangkok101.com
listings Snapper
grilled beef. They make their own tortillas on the premises and while they are delightfully fresh, it’s the liberal servings of roasted salsa and pico de gallo that really deliver. If the burritos are too much for you to tackle, there’s plenty of smaller fare worth sampling. The tacos (B70-90) are particularly impressive. Again, the salsa and the toppings are light, refreshing, with just enough spice to blow out the cobwebs, while the varieties – chicken, pork, beef and chorizo – all retain enough of their distinct tastes that the different tacos never blur into a hotpotch of cheese and guacamole – although the guacamole here is also top-notch. It’s a winning combination – if you’ve struggled to find fresh, flavoursome Mexican food, these tacos are the way forward. That’s not to undersell the quesadillas, of course (B150- 245), but it’s probably the tacos and the burritos which are the staples that keep those with cravings for Mexican food filtering back to El Diablo’s.
senor pico [MAP 3/k11] 1F Rembrandt Hotel 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 02-261-7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk 5pm-1am Anyone acquainted with real Mexican food, as opposed to the American versions usually seen around the world, may be stunned by the new menu. To start with, rather than defining Mexican cuisine by such fast-food items as tacos, burritos, quesadillas and nachos, the menu provides a broader, deeper glimpse into Mexican food. Nowhere else in town have we seen such dishes as aguachile de camarón (B395), a soupy concoction of prawns marinated in lime juice, olive oil and chile de arbol, common in Mexico but practically unknown beyond the country’s borders. House specialities include costillas de borrego (B695), chipotle-and-garlic-rubbed lamb cutlets, atun del diablo (B595), a seared tuna rubbed with Mexican spices served with avocado and mango salsa, and espetadas (B495), chargrilled Portugesestyle kebabs, a choice of tiger prawns, jalapeño and cilantro sausage, beef or bangkok101.com
chicken. Several dishes feature duck, which is popular in Mexico but rarely seen in American-style Mexican eateries. Higado de Pato (495B) is duck liver served with Mexican corncake, mango pico de gallo (fresh salsa) and a sauce of raspberry blended with chile ancho (dried Poblano chillies).
middle eastern Arabesque [MAP3 / B7] 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2 | 02-656-9440 arabesquebkk.com | 11am-2am The hostess in traditional garb that greets you on the street is the first indicator that Arabesque wants to make a good impression. The ‘Arabesque’ motifs – the Egyptianmade wood and seashell doors, window frames and pillars – that give the restaurant its name and accent the sandy orange dining room are another. It’s all very tasteful and classy, with, to our delight, not a tacky model Sphinx, pyramid or Tutankhamun’s mummy in sight. Enjoy a toke on a shisha pipe? For that, there’s a leafy front patio. Unlike most of its competitors, the menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures (and the imported goodies sold in the on-site bazaar, which occupies the other half of the curtained off interior). As well as dishes that fans of Middle Eastern cuisine will know well, such as hummus, mousaka and tajine, it includes some they probably won’t. Koushary, for example, is an Egyptian staple of lentil, macaroni, rice, fried onions and chili tomato sauce that we’ve never seen on the menu anywhere else.
SEAFOOD snapper [MAP 3/f8] 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-1098 snapper-bangkok.com Mon-Fri 5pm midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight New Zealand cuisine is hard to define precisely but it emphasises quality produce, and allows it to speak for itself with uncomplicated presentation. This works particularly well when it comes to seafood and, although Snapper has a low-key, laidback atmosphere, owners Mark and Craig take their produce very seriously, importing it all the way from the chilly waters of the Tasman. The Nelson Bay scallops, sauteed in white wine, butter and chives (B790) epitomise the approach of not masking the natural
FOOD & DRIN K
The Oyster Bar
goodness of the product with a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients. That seafood taste is there in spades, along with a perfectly firm yet tender texture that identifies top-drawer seafood. They’ve got some stiff competition from the mussels, though, served as starters (B200-B300) or in a more substantial sharing platter (B480), topped with spiced tomato that offsets the oceaninfused tang without ever overwhelming it. Snapper has done its darnedest to set itself apart as serving the best fish and chips in Bangkok and it’s pretty hard to argue with the orange roughie (B480) that just comes apart effortlessly on the plate and, with a squirt of lemon, works spectacularly on the tongue. There’s a vast selection: from red gurnard to flounder to kingfish and plenty more besides.
the oyster bar [MAP 2/e11] 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 02-212-4809 theoysterbarbangkok.com Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know the owner of a restaurant takes his seafood seriously when there are several pages of the menu devoted entirely to oysters. With Billy Marinelli, owner of the Oyster Bar in a foodie enclave of Chong Nonsi, customers are in good hands. If you’ve brought your most serious appetite, move on to the seafood platter (B2000 for two or B3500 for four or more), offering a gorgeous pile of oysters, scallop sashimi, bay shrimp, seaweed salad, Dungeness crab, mussels, clams and caviar. The portions here are generous – and remarkably affordable given the quality – but they’re unlikely to last long once they land on the table as every part of the platter positively glows with that slightly briney goodness. For some diners, that may be enough but for those prepared to carry on, the rewards are well worth it. The seafood paella (B600 for two) is as good at it gets, rustically presented, steaming with spices and sauce, a mountain of mixed seafood to be ladled out and shared. If that style of communal, hot and hearty dish makes your mouth water, the seafood paella will have you returning several times. J U N E 2014 | 85
Sky bar at Sirocco
Nightlife gin stars at woo bar
For those who can’t go past a gin and tonic – or a fancier cocktail with a gin base, for that matter – the new selection of gins at Woo Bar (GF W Hotel Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd; 02-344-4000; whotelbangkok.com) is likely to prove a major attraction. The new Gin Couture menu will take centre stage every Thursday from 6pm, with the mixologists using house-infused gins and mixing them in with seasonal ingredients, mixed herbs and contrasting botanicals. Gin-drinkers have never had it so good.
margaritas at ambar
Nothing quite cuts through the Bangkok heat like a well-made margarita and amBar (Four Points Sheraton, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15; 02-309-3288; ambarbangkok.com) is using el Jimador tequila, hand-crafted in Mexico, to deliver an exciting new twist on this well-known staple. Whether you fancy the apple, strawberry, mango or lemongrass varieties, it’s a good way to wet your whistle at one of Bangkok’s most popular rooftop watering holes. So swing by after work before the rains arrive.
barsu reopens
Sukhumvit favourite BarSu (Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd; 02-649-8888; sheratongrandesukhumvit.com) reopened last month following a refurbishment and its weekly schedule of events is already overflowing. They’ve got Latino Thursdays and live music on Fridays. They’re also kicking off with a selection of Latin American cocktails at a very inviting two-for-the-price-of-one rate. So why not swing by this weekend and help BarSu celebrate its return to the Bangkok nightclub scene?
party on the river
Bangkok is renowned for its open-air rooftop bars – mainly congregated around Silom and Sathorn and a handful of hotels along Sukhumvit. Now, with the return of Bangkok Boat Party (0818-871-032; bangkokboatparty.com) on June 14, you can enjoy a drink on the waters of the Chao Praya River. There’s a full line-up of local DJs and the party kicks off at 9pm when the boats picks up passengers at Saphin Taksin BTS. Make sure you book in advance – tickets are B900 but that includes two drinks.
bangkok101.com
xxxx 2013 | 87
N IGHTLI FE
review
onyx - Heading back to RCA -
F
or all the boom in nightlife in different parts of Silom, Sathorn and Sukhumvit – and let’s not forget some of the authentically scruffy spots dotted around Khao San Rd – it’s arguable that RCA remains one of Bangkok’s premier nightlife districts. There’s not much on Phetchaburi Rd that offers any indication of what lies in store along Royal City Avenue. And even at the top of the strip it appears fairly nondescript, the rows of taxis waiting in the shadows offering the only hint of the hubbub inside. Of course, those who venture in on foot will find a wide selection of bars and clubs to choose from – everything from small diners with live music to sprawling nightclubs with several different areas. And, as it happens, Onyx is the latest addition to this milieu. Located at the far end of RCA – that is, the end closest to the expressway – Onyx is an upscale nightclub that borrows more than a touch from the futuristic, designed-driven interior of Bed Supperclub. Part of the appeal of RCA is that it’s one of the rare spots is Bangkok where Thais and expats party alongside one another. Unlike many of the hot spots along Sukhumvit, it hasn’t been completely overrun by farangs. This appears doubly true of Onyx, where the crowd is overwhelmingly Thai. The club is laid out over two storeys, although most of the action appears confined to the ground floor, where the main floor is dominated by a dozen small tables and the walls lined with more secluded sofas.
88 | J U N E 2014
The main feature, though, is the giant video screen that looms large over the DJ booth. Along with the LCD lighting that periodically sets the ceiling ablaze with neon, it ensures that, at least visually, Onyx creates a dynamic impression. The challenge, though, is to create an atmosphere that matches the spectacle and, in a space that is a little one-dimensional, that may prove tricky on quieter nights. Still, there’s plenty to like about Onyx – they take their cocktails seriously and, if they’re able to book some big acts, should be able to develop a loyal following. Speaking of big acts, Taiwanese DJ Ellie has been confirmed to play on July 5. So if you’ve been meaning to revisit RCA, that could be the perfect opportunity.
onyx
[MAP 3/k1]
RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 081-645-1166 facebook.com/onyxbkk
bangkok101.com
review
bangkok101.com
N IGHTLI FE
J U N E 2014 | 89
N IGHTLI FE
listings
Ku De Ta
there’s a welcome mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of Levels’ buzzy atmosphere.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4]
Nightclubs ku de ta [MAP 5/g6] 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 02-108-2000 kudeta.net | 6pm-late Since its opening amid much fanfare at the end of last year, Ku De Ta has quickly built a reputation as one of the places in Bangkok to keep an eye on. The hype and the investment have been massive and there’s an ambition to match. Ku De Ta sets out to add a new dimension to a night out in Bangkok by providing an upscale club experience for the city’s movers and shakers but it has also carved out its own unique aesthetic that is sure to make it one of Bangkok’s top nightlife destination venues. Undoubtedly, the space is the first part of Ku De Ta’s glittering fit-out that catches the eyes. The main club is a vast rectangular area with skyscraper ceilings and a long window running down an entire side, affording an exceptional view of Bangkok. Another feature is the very snazzy, very modern LED ‘chandelier’ hangs over the dance floor, twinkling a variety of different colours.
Levels [MAP 3/f8] 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0823-083-246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am Of all the venues of Sukhumvit Soi 11, Levels has benefited the most from the closure earlier this year of Bed Supperclub. Great swathes of that clientele now overflow to the other side of the soi, making Levels one of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok, on any night of the week. At many popular clubs in Bangkok, the crowd quickly finds a familiar groove, attracting one particular kind of revellers that old hands can identify fairly quickly – whether that’s the tourists passing through on the way to the beach or the slightly more clued-up locals returning to a favourite haunt. At Levels, though, it’s much harder to categorise – 90 | J U N E 2014
President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | B350 | 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls.
ROUTE 66 [Map 8/Q12] 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | route66club.com B200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais Rammed with hordes of dressed-to-kill young Thais on most nights of the week, ‘Route’, as it is affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, alllasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands bang out hits in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your friends but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area. One sore point: unlike the locals, foreigners are charged a B200 entry fee.
Q BAR [Map 3/C4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife twelve years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Also, out the back of the venue, you can find your way into Le Derriere, Q Bar’s very own Parisianstyle absinthe bar.
Q Bar
hotel bars & clubs BARSU [map 3/F6] 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, there are five live bands for each night of the week. Comprised of students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Jazz, Tenon Round’ are a gifted young quartet who perform every Tuesday from 8.30 to 10.30pm. The other bands, JazzPlayground, P.O.8, Rhythm Nation and Hot Gossip, play from Wednesday to Saturday respectively. In between sets, tuck into their ‘Goong goong goong’ menu, combining fresh prawns with a variety of international flavours.
spasso [MAP 8/l13] Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-254-1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm2.30am There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The layout is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoe-shaped bars. It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor. Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its biggests selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits. bangkok101.com
listings Heaven
River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn, on the banks beyond. Go before sundown and enjoy watching the sun sink slowly behind it. Or come later, when amber floodlights make it glow against the night sky.
N IGHTLI FE
Long Table
heaven [MAP 8/k13]
Bars with views Above Eleven [MAP 3/C4] 33Fl Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-9300 aboveeleven.com | 6pm-2am A west-facing 33rd floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, Above Eleven is a winning combination. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Tip: choose a seat on the north side – it gets windy to the south. There’s a great view, an impressive cocktail list and an electro soundtrack.
AMOROSA [Map 7/C12] 4F Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd 02-221-9158 | arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails and a so-so wine list. The showstopper, though, is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, guests gaze out from its balcony terrace on to the Chao Phraya
bangkok101.com
20F Zen @ Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-100-9000 | heaven-on-zen.com Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am It’s heavily dependent on the weather as the design offers precious little protection but on a warm Bangkok night, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails (all B280-B320) right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction – slightly cheesey name but we’ll forgive it because it tastes good – combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear puree. It’s super fruity but apple liqueur is one of the more versatile, underused ingredients in cocktails and it sets off the others in a way that’s refreshing but still carries a kick.
LONG TABLE [Map 3/H8] 25F 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 02-302-2557 | longtablebangkok.com 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing that draws Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar. There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the
end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – wide-screen city vistas.
MOON BAR [Map 5/K8] 61F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For
J U N E 2014 | 91
N IGHTLI FE
listings RED SKY [Map 4/F 3]
Nest voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.
octave [MAP 3/s10] 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 02-797-0000 facebook.com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back some of Octave’s punchy, refreshing cocktails. The Thai Mojito (B320) starts things off in a way that’s familiar enough but well-executed, combining the standards of white rum, basil and lime with spicy mango, adding a zingy twist to the established mojito formula. More innovative still is the Bloom Over The Roof (B320), which fuses Red Berry Tea-flavoured vodka with fresh mint leaves and elderflower syrup. It might seem a little flowery but the overall effect is a seriously drinkable concoction that cuts right through the humidity. A welcome addition to the afterwork scene in this neck of the woods.
NEST [Map 3/C4] 9F Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 02-305-4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com 5pm-2am An all-white and urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, Nest is a loungey and laid-back spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket nibbles from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include Mode, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape. 92 | J U N E 2014
56F Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 02-100-1234 centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slowcooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not exactly cheap, but the daily happy hours (buy one get one drink on selected wine, beer and cocktails from 5pm-7pm).
SKY BAR / DISTIL [map 5/C5] 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd 02-624-9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Sky bar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet another stunning view from the 51st – 52nd floors. These places are definitely not spots for the casual beach bum, so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart casual dress code is enforced.
The Speakeasy [MAP 4/J6] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd 02-630-4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions
Red Sky at reasonable prices; spirits (from B270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails (from B 290) include home-made vodka infusions.
threeSixty [map 5/b2] Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 02-442-2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am High above the glittering lights of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, ThreeSixty is the only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire, dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, all year round. A private glass lift takes guests all the way up to the 32nd floor which boasts panoramic vistas from its 130m tall, circular lounge. Guests can feast on a range of miniature culinary experiences, from foie gras to caviar or risotto, or sip on fine wines and cocktails as the sun sets in a blaze of colour behind Wat Arun. Just as gently, the soft lounge lights come on to create an atmosphere of casual intimacy. As the first stars appear, the city’s coolest jazz sounds will set the mood which true aficionados will not be able to resist.
woo bar [map 5/g7] W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 02-344-4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok Sun-Wed 9am-1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to characterise the hotel franchise. It’s chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without being echoey and without atmosphere. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard tipples. The Bliss (B325), which comes from the bartenders at W Hotel in New York, combines Ciroc vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, mint and fresh ginger. You might struggle to stop at just one. bangkok101.com
listings Apoteka
N IGHTLI FE
design is chic (blacks and greys, white-onblack stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food new-fangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. It’s littered with cooling fans, huge bean bags and funky barley-stalk sculptures.
BREW [map 3/Q6]
BARS Apoteka [map 3/e8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 090-626-7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight As you may have guessed, the name is based on an outdated word for pharmacist and the place is meant to emulate a 19th century apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has an old-school feel. There are high ceilings, red brick walls and Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde being projected onto the wall. Indoor seating is a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the main wall. Large cases filled with vintage-coloured bottles of medicine flank the bar. A wooden patio with some cozy furniture that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke and a beer.
BARLEY BISTRO [map 5/h5] 4F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 087-033-3919 5pm-late | barleybistro.com Hidden up some stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of franchise-like restaurants, Barley Bistro is slick and snazzy. The
bangkok101.com
Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 02-185-2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am It wasn’t so long ago that the beer selection here was comprised entirely of the ubiquitous local lagers and the Heinekens and Carlsbergs of this world. The fact that it doesn’t anymore is largely thanks to Chris Foo, the owner of this beer bar tucked away on the ground floor of Thonglor Soi 13’s happening mini-mall Seenspace. Depending on what time of year it is, Brew stocks between 140 and 170 bottles of ales, lagers, ciders, you name it. Currently, the setting in which you sip them is hip in Thonglor circles. That’s not so much down to Brew’s tiny interior, with its exposed piping and bar flanked by kegs of beer and brick walls, as the buzzing outdoor area it shares with futuristic cocktail bar Clouds and the nautically themed Fat’r Gutz.
CAFÉ TRIO [map4 / H6] 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252- 6572 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sun of the month Cafe Trio is just about the only bar worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Tucked down a narrow alley just off the upmarket residential street, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty
Cheap Charlie’s lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and has plastered the walls with her Modiglianiesque, Vietnamese inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map 3/D6] Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed nightspots Q Bar and the other newer spots that have cropped up recently.
J U N E 2014 | 93
N IGHTLI FE
listings of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and modern furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each).
Maggie Choo’s
FIVE Gastronomy & Mixology [MAP 3/O9]
Hyde & Seek
CLOUDS [Map 3/Q2] 1F SeenSpace, 251/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, 02-185-2365 | cloudslounge.com The third bar by Australian Ashley Sutton – the mad scientist of Bangkok’s bar scene – is, as we’ve come to expect, something entirely unexpected. Evoking a future where ‘there are no more natural resources’, this slim concrete shell at the rear of hip lifestyle mall SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped with lumps of translucent leafencasing acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based cocktails (B 280) by New York mixultant Joseph Boroski are prepped by ‘NASA technicians’ in white overalls; and the food offerings tasty misshapen pizzas, cooked in a gas-oven behind the bar.
FACE BANGKOK (map3/S7) 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02-713-6048 facebars.com | 11.30am-1am Jim Thompson, move over. Face’s visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim’s former mansion, with Ayutthaya-style buildings and thriving flora, it’s just bigger and bolder. The Face Bar is a dimly-lit place that summons deluxe drinkers with its cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails. Though often empty, the big drink list will stop your body clock pretty fast. The two restaurants – Hazara serving Northern Indian and Lan Na Thai serving traditional Thai – are full of fab all-Asian decor; they’re romantic and inviting, but you might be let down by the tiny portions, and the flamboyant prices.
FAT GUT’Z [map 3/Q2] 264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 02-7149-832 fatgutz.com | 6pm-2am This sleek saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense 94 | J U N E 2014
Room 103, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26 088-524-5550 | facebook.com/fivebkk 6pm-1am Five brings a welcome wand blast of gothic whimsy to K Village, an otherwise aesthetically uninspiring community mall. Its owner, Pattriya Na Nakorn, invited bar entrepreneur Ashley Sutton to work his magic with a vacant plot on the ground floor. And, completing her dream team is Joseph Boroski, the same New York based cocktail ‘mixologist’ that Sutton uses. His bars always engage the day-dreamy part of your brain and this black magic themed one is no different. Think clanking pulleys, monumental iron piping and flickering candles. Indeed, even the staff look like they’ve stumbled off the set of one of the Harry Potter movies.
HYDE & SEEK [Map 4/L5] 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee 02-168-5152 | 11am-1am | hydeandseek.com This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pickmeup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs go well with custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants.
maggie choo’s [MAP 5/c5] Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd 02-635-6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos Tues-Sun 6pm-2am From the Victorian steam-punk of Iron Fairies to the eco-futurism of Clouds, Aussie entrepreneur Ashley Sutton has already proved himself as the Terry Gilliam of Bangkok’s bar world, conjuring up drinking hole after drinking hole shot through with
a magical realist quality. Maggie Choo’s, with its decadent atmosphere redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens, is no different. Clomp down the staircase and you find yourself in a noodle bar. One that could pass for an old Shaw Brothers movie set. The main decoration – and they are just decoration – are the leggy cabaret girls. Every evening at about 9pm about half a dozen walk out from behind a velvet curtain and proceed to fan themselves on swings.
Moose [MAP 3/S3] Ekamai Soi 21 | 02-108-9550 facebook.com/moosebangkok Tucked away behind Tuba and up a shabby looking staircase, Moose is one of the most talked about new bars in the city. The same team behind Cosmic Café and Sonic have revamped this warehouse-sized space into the latest retro-inspired hipster bar. Brick walls, a small tree here and there, flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads create a relaxed, living-room-esque ambience. A DJ spins unobtrusive tunes while authentic and delicious Thai food, such as salted pork neck (150 baht) and southern style curry (B160) ensures the bar consistently draws a young, local crowd who know their food.
OSKAR BISTRO [map 3/D5] 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255 3377 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11.30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby; and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. The food choice includes sandwiches, the Oskar burger (wagyu beef – what else?), pizzas and a section of cocottes. Almost all are under B300, which for food of this surprising quality is a steal. Most people come here though not for the food but for a pre-club libation: be it glass of wine (from B145 a glass), imported beer, or reasonably priced cocktail. bangkok101.com
listings
N IGHTLI FE
WTF [Map 3/Q6]
Viva Aviv
TUBA [Map 8/S14] 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 02-711-5500 design-athome.com | 11am-2am Owned by the same hoarders behind furniture warehouse Papaya, Tuba is a Bangkok classic: room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch, all of which you’re free to skulk through at your leisure. Some come here to snag a comfy sofa, retro sign or goofy tchotchke. Others come for the big menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked for the local palate. But for us, it works best as a bar, as the setting and generous happy hours mean there really are few cooler places to kick back.
VIVA AVIV [map 5/C2] River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 02-639-6305 vivaaviv.com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar was initially looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek.
Water Library @ Grass [Map 3/R6]
Grass Thong Lor, 264/1 Thong Lor Soi 12 02-714-9292 | Mon-Sat 6.30pm-1am Aside from its upmarket, inventive set menu dining on the first floor restaurant, The Water Library also has three lounge and wine bar areas downstairs with funky food, cocktails and live music at not audacious prices. A set menu of three cocktails paired with tapas bites at B790 is a pleasant surprise, and their wine list starts at B900 a bottle. Water Library is one to watch on the regional drinking and dining scene. The very talented mixologist Mirko Gardelliano was Germany’s Cocktail Champion in 2003. bangkok101.com
7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 02- 626-6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect live gigs, art exhibitions upstairs and a mix of hipsters, journos and scenesters.
LIVE MUSIC ADHERE the 13TH [Map 7/G3] 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) 089-769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except forthe Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ’em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin
COSMIC CAFE [Map 8/Q12] RCA Block C | Rama IX Rd | MRT Rama 9 The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves up a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outdoor seating and a small dance floor. On one night you might the place jumping to a rare live performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon, on another a house band dishing out some surf guitar, ska, electronic or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it draws a lively, musically discerning crowd, from skinny jeaned artschool hipster types to teddy boy expats.
TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY [MAP 2/E11]
462/61 Rama III Rd | 02- 678-1114 tawandang.co.th The one place that every taxi driver seems to know, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come
Water Library for the towers of micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub (especially the deep-fried pork knuckle and sausage), and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, everybody is on their feet and the place going bananas.
Jazz clubs BAMBOO BAR [Map 5/B4] The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave 02-659-9000 | mandarinoriental.com Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s never theless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages.
Brown Sugar [Map 7/J5] 469 Phrasumen Rd | 089-499-1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Little over a month after it closed down, one of Bangkok’s oldest cosiest jazz venue was back with a new, bigger location near Khao San. Now a restaurant and coffee house by day, it morphs into a world-class, jazz café-style haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw an audience of locals and visitors by night. Its exterior is impressive, resembling a ritzy old cinema house. And inside, it’s huge, with a daytime coffeeshop up front, a versatile 200-seater ‘Playhouse’ upstairs, and the big, open-plan jazz pub and restaurant out back. Six house bands fill up the week, and on the last Friday or Saturday of each month they showcase an international act that’s passing through. J U N E 2014 | 95
senada By Gaby Doman
Ix
t’s xxxxx an unusual xxxxxx thing xxxxx indeed to see a Thai women’s fashion xxxcollection that we can use the words ‘tough’ and ‘masculine’ xxx to describe. But Senada’s SS14 collection is justxxx that; it’s sexy, simple and boyish. How refreshing. The collection, ‘Look at Me’, is described by the designers as being their re-imagination of 90s grunge. But to suggest available at: is, we think, to do the collection a that it’s merely grunge disservice. While the grunge element is certainly at play in thexxx thrown-together style of the collection, there are other influences xxx at work, too. There’s a hint of rockabilly in the laceedged xxx strappy dresses, a lot of tomboy charm in the striped knee-length shorts and braces, a dash of Lolita-esque sex xxxweb appeal in the polka dot dresses worn with pulled-up socks, a little military inspiration in the tassled jackets and chunky boots, and plenty of buttoned-up geek chic in the collared short-sleeved white blouses worn with over-the knee A-line skirts. ‘Grunge’ seems a convenient and on-trend way to group a mix-match of inspirations together but, despite the unusual bricolage, it really works in its own right. What ties the collection together is its attitude, which toes the line between toughness and vulnerability. Oversized shirts are paired with braces and flares for similar but cuter takes on tailoring than Saint Laurent’s SS14 collection. The playful style is continued throughout the collection with buttoned-up shirts paired with granny style shin-length skirt, which are contrasted in the look book’s styling with masculine brogues or chunky lace-up boots – this isn’t a collection to be worn with heels. Even elements which may normally seem overtly sexual, such as over knee socks, tiny hotpants and cropped tops carry seem innocent. It’s less in-your-face sexy and more ‘this top shrunk in the wash but I don’t care’. The result is very charming and surprisingly feminine, despite the very masculine tailoring throughout the collection. The Senada girl is a girl with outward attitude and inner softness.
available at: Senada boutiques: 3F Siam Center, 2F Central World Department store: 1F Siam Paragon, 1F The Emporium senadatheory.com
bangkok101.com
APRIL 2013 | 97
SHOPPING
jj gem
mae klong It’s not just soul music can be heard drifting from this shop. Listen carefully and you might hear the owner Parinya also conducting a freestyle singalong. It’s no wonder given what he sells: African instruments like the kalimba (thumb piano), bongo drums, as well as assorted shakers, and the latest must-have craze among strum-happy musical Thais, ukuleles. The name of his small, cluttered shop doesn’t just refer to the name of a river but is also actually a witty pun derived from the combination of two of the owner’s most beloved things: his Mae (mother) and klong (drum). A shop with zero pretensiousness and a great sense of rhythm, it’s the kind of place where if you ask really nicely you may even get an impromptu lesson.
mae klong Section 3 Soi 44/1 | 086-977-0265 facebook.com/tigermaeklong
Jatujak Market
Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix. 98 | J U N E 2014
> The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover | B1,950
The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual inter pretation of Bangkok’s world-famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. bangkok101.com
unique boutique
SHOPPING
Bellino
A
wine room combined with a boutique might not sound like a perfect match but Bellino sells the famous linen, hand-crafted shoes and aromatic lemon perfume, all imported from Capri, where owner Jay Boccia was born. And a shot of lemonade is offered upon entering as a welcome drink. Wearing a vest during summertime is probably the most sensible option in Bangkok. Weirdly enough, people can often be seen wearing thick shirts. Still, it is almost impossible to find fine linen clothing in Bangkok, prompting the idea to import linen, among other things, from Capri. Unlike most traditional Thai shirts, linen is more comfortable and suitable for the hot climate. “It began when my lover and I were in Capri last year. She was so inspired by life in Capri with the lemons, people and clothing. She just wanted to share Capri with the people of Bangkok,” Boccia says. Bellino has a Carthusia perfume made out of lemon from Capri for B3200 per 50mm bottle. If you like lemon scent, this kind of fragrance is almost impossible to find elsewhere in Bangkok. “Bellino is a small place. We don’t have many seats but we are close and people coming here are the usual customers,” Boccia says. Besides clothing, Bellino offers a homemade Italian menu, which rotates according to Jay’s mood and available ingredients. A Caprese salad (B350) is a staple, while Mama’s meatballs and tapas platter are B300. A glass of wine is B120 – the price is friendly because they import the wine themselves. bangkok101.com
Bellino Wine Room & Boutique
[MAP 3/Q6]
Thonglor 13 next to Seen Space | 02-712-5446 facebook.com/BellinoWineRoomBoutique | 6.30pm-2am
J U N E 2014 | 99
WELLN ESS
treatment yunomori
refresh
Refresh [MAP 3/n9] 43 Sukumvit Soi 24 | 02-259-7235 refresh24spa.com | 9.30am-1am | $
One of Sukhumvit’s biggest, this 25-room manor of rubdown magic is located just down the road from Emporium mall – head here for a post mall-blitz recovery sesh. Instead of the exotic Thai overkill that prevails in spas here, this slick new-build has a plush neo-vintage look, with Louis XV-style furniture adorning the lobby and Victorian-style skirting boards lining the rooms and corridors. It’s different, but elegant, calming. The menu is similarly understated, dabbling mostly in unflashy rubs and scrubs, though there are packages and a selection of Jurlique and Algoane facials available. Of the offerings, the hot oil massage is our pick – this 90-minuter melds Thai, Balinese and other styles to snooze inducing effect.
lavana [map 3 / F 7] 4 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | 02-229-4510 9am-11:30pm | $$$
Lavana does its treatments right. Spa options are refreshingly clear-cut, and primarily focused on massage. Scrubs and facials are also available, along with lavana
shin shin
the unusual and intriguing Shirodhara oil treatment, in which warm oil is drizzled along the “third eye” in the forehead and massaged into the head and neck. Those seeking a tidier signature option should choose the herbal ball oil massage – Lavana’s dedicated therapists manage to pack a restful eternity into a well-priced 90 minutes. Masseuses combine long Swedish and sports-massage strokes with very detailed work on problem areas – they take computer-knotted shoulders and other ailments as a matter of personal concern, and banish those tweaks and twinges with wonderfully intense kneading and muscle release work.
Yunomori [Map 3/o9] A Square, Sukhumvit 26 | 02-259-5778 facebook.com/yunomorionsen | 10.30am12am | $$$
Yunomori isn’t an onsen (a Japanesestyle hot springs) in the strictest, most traditional sense of the word but rather the souped up inner-city version, with other facilities such as spas, restaurants and bars as well as pools to bath in. In the changing rooms, you strip off, lock away your belongings, take a deep breath and emerge, as naked as a
newborn, into the baths (guys bare all, girls can wear disposable underwear). Once happy in your birthday suit, the bath hopping begins. We counted five, from the warm soda bath featuring water infused with CO2 to the near scalding jet bath and main onsen, both of which use spring water sourced from Ranong. Once you’ve soaked until you can soak no more, head out in your slippers and explore Yunomori’s extras.
shin shin spa [MAP 3/y6] L-floor Jasmine Resort Hotel, 1511 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-335-5022 shinshinspa.com | 10am-8pm | $$
Located at the Jasmine Resort Hotel, on the same floor as the hotel pool and outdoor garden, the recently opened Shin Shin Spa offers modestly priced treatments in a clean, modern, minimally styled space. It’s not a big place by any means – there are two oil treatment rooms and a Thai massage room, and that’s it. However, Shin Shin’s size is no reflection of the quality on offer. In fact, as well as standards such as the wheatgrass welcome drink and aromatherapy foot cleansing ritual, it has a couple of aces up its sleeve that we’ve not come across before. First and foremost is the spa’s signature circular motion massage technique (Shin Shin translates as ‘vortex’ in Japanese). This is said to increase blood circulation and aid the absorption of oils into the skin. Secondly, a ‘silk essence’ lends a, well, silkiness to some of the massage treatments, including our pick: Shin Shin’s self-titled signature treatment. Spa costs $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1000 $$$ :: B1000-B2000 $$$$ :: B2000+
100 | J U N E 2014
bangkok101.com
treatment
WELLN ESS
mandara spa Four hands are better than two T
he setting and interior of the Mandara Spa at the Royal Orchid Sheraton are relaxing enough on their own. Overlooking the Chao Praya River, the spa’s furnishings include a leafy green Thai garden, creating a tropical atmosphere only a stone’s throw from the concrete chaos of Charoenkrung Rd. But the experience is just beginning. If you spend enough time at swanky spas in nice hotels the quality of treatments tends to average out at something that could be characterised as ‘pretty good’. The Mandara’s signature fourhand massage (B400 for 60 minutes), though, is singularly excellent. Two masseuses, working in perfect synchronicity, are definitely more than the sum of their parts, delivering an epic blast of intense relaxation. It’s not easy to explain the effect. Suffice to say that if you’ve paid lip service to the new-agey mantras that claim ‘the whole body is connected by a single energy’, having two masseuses working in tandem makes that stuff a whole lot more persuasive. In a way that one masseuse working alone never could, the head-to-toe double act is able work the feet and shoulders at the same time, triggering sensation at both ends. If you have one massage this month – or this year – spring for the four-hand option. But be warned, you may not be able to go back to the standard twohander.
mandara spa
[MAP 8/f16]
The Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, 2 Captain Bush Lane, New Road 02-266-0123 | royalorchidsheraton.com | Open 24 hours
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 101
getting there
Ban Silapin on khlong mon
RAIL
Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th
SKYTRAIN (BTS)
Airport Rail Link
The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B55; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th
SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central
railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT
RIVER
EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5.30am and 6pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.
CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.
ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50 – B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).
MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, bangkok101.com
A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150.
motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should be negotiated beforehand.
TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered,
air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for the first 2 kms) and the fare climbs in B 2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B 5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added.
TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40. J U N E 2014 | 103
Map 1 Greater Bangkok A
B
Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya Map 2 >
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L MYANMAR
Uthai Thani
1
UTHAI THANI
CHAI NAT
2
Chiang Mai
LOP BURI
Nakhon Ratchasima c
Nakhon Ratchasima
Pattaya CAMBODIA Koh Samet Koh Chang
NAKHON RATCHASIM A
SARABURI
3
Andaman Sea
Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya
Koh Samui
AYUTTHAYA
NAKHON NAYOK
PATHUM THANI 5
b
1 2
MALAYSIA
PRACHIN BURI
f c
RATCHABURI
VIETNAM
Gulf of Thailand
Krabi
Phuket
4
NAKHON PATHOM
Ubon
Bangkok
ANG THONG
KANCHANABURI
Udon Thani
Lop Buri
Kanchanaburi
LAOS
THAILAND
SING BURI
SUPHAN BURI
6
M
3
2
SA KAEO
BANGKOK f a
SAMUT SAKHON
CHACHOENGSAO
SAMUT
1 PRAKAN
SAMUT SONGKHRAM
CA M BODI A CHON BURI
Phetchaburi
7
Ko Sichang
PHETCHABURI 8
Pattaya RAYONG
Cha-am
CHANTHABURI
Rayong Hua Hin
Ko Samet
Muang Chantaburi
9
PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN 10
Trat
Gulf of Thailand
M YA N M A R
Ko Chang
Prachuap Khiri Khan
11
Ko Kut
N
20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border
Sightseeing a
Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park
floating Markets Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa 1
Museums 1
Erawan Museum 2 House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods
104 | J U N E 2014
night bazaar 1
Asiatique The Riverfront [free shuttle boat from Sathorn pier everyday 4.00-11.30 pm.]
Nightlife 1 2
Parking Toys Tawandang German
Hotels 1 Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort and Spa
bangkok101.com
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N 
F
Tanya Tanee
PAK KRET
Don Mueng
2
Don Mueng Int. Airport
Ko Kret
Sai Mai
F
Royal Irrigation Dept.
3
Lak Si
F
F
Rajpruek
The Legacy
F
Northpark
4
e
Khlong Sam wa
Royal Thai Army Sport Center
F5
1
Thanont
F
Chatuchak Bang Sue
Bang Phlat
8
Huai Khwang
Saphan Sung
Bang Kapi
F
Pathumwan
Bangkok Yai Wongwian Yai
Bang Rak
Khlong San *
Thon Buri 1
Chom Thong
F
9
10
1
Bang Kholaem
Lat Krabang
Suan Luang
Khlong Toei
Sathorn
60th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park
Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande
Watthana
Lumpini
7
Wang Thong lang
DinDaeng Ratchathewi
Mini Buri
F
Navatanee
Phayathai
Taling Chan
6
Khan na Yao
Bueng Kum
Mo Chit
Dusit
Bangkok Noi
Panya Indra
Lat Phrao
Chatuchak
Bang Sue
Bang Bon
Bang Khen
F
MUENG NONTHABURI
Phasi Charoen
1
Prawet Yan 2 Nawa
Rat Burana
Phra Khanong 4
Phra Pradaeng
f
11
Suan Luang Rama IX
Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport
Bang Na
12
F
Summit Windmill
Bearing
Bang Khun Thian
13
F
Mueang Kaew
Thung Khru
14
F
Green Valley
15
PHRA SAMUT CHEDI
SAMUT PRAKAN
16
F
d
17
Bangpoo
Gulf of Thailand
bangkok101.com
18
J U N E 2014 | 105
Map 3 Sukhumvit Road A
B
C
D
E
F
G
Phra Ram 9
1
Ram
H
J
a IX
K
L
M
Roya
m9 Prara ital Hosp
l Cit
y Ave
RC A ange R ing
Driv
2
Din
Da
en
kam
phae
ng P
het 7
Phet
g
Uthai
3
Ital Thai
e
) Phe
Makkasan
tcha
Stat
2nd
Phetchaburi
buri
4
road (Toll Expy
38/1
Su
7
het
Prasanmit
So
Su 9/1 3
Ph on g
i1 6
N
300 m 1 328 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Subway Line Railway
106 | J U N E 2014
1
Conrad Bangkok Sheraton Grande 3 Seven 4 JW Marriott 5 Rembrandt 6 Four Points 7 Aloft Sukhumvit 11 8 Ramada Encore 9 Imperial Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit 2
11
Marriott Executive 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta Sukhumvit Park 12 Grande Centre Point 5 TCDC (Thailand Terminal 21 Creative & Design 13 Sofitel Bangkok Centre 6 Nang Kwak Sukhumvit 14 Le Fenix 7 WTF 15 Radisson Sukhumvit 8 The Pikture Gallery 15 Marriott Bangkok 9 We*Do Gallery 10 RMA Sukhumvit
Arts & Culture 1
Japan Foundation 2 Koi Art Gallery
3
Emporium
Markets 4
Sukhumvit
malls 1 2
Robinsons Terminal 21 bangkok101.com
Soi 24
So
Hotels
Sukhumwit
2
wit
Tai
ay sw
ana
s re
iN
xp
So
nE
10
13
Phrom Pho
i 39
i2
um
k
h ko
4
it So
So
0
8
kh
Su
Na
9
umw
wit
i2
i1
Su
Benjasiri Park
Sukh
i 33
31
So
So
12
wit
wit
um
um
kh
kh
um
IR
Su
Su
kh
Soi
ha
rm
5
Benjakiti Park
12
15 13
Soi 35
it So
Soi
i 29
14 NO
Sukhumwit
umw
wit
it So
hum
Sukh
Suk
umw
i 27
Su
wit
10
3
iP
ale
1 6
it So
23
Asok 16
So
Ch
udi
Son
an
UA
Soi
Sukh
oy
umw
wb
Co
Sukh
Soi
Soi
12 2
wit
17
19
wit Soi
hum
7 9
Sukhumvit
hum
Soi
10
2
Suk
Sukhum
i8
8
1
Soi
4
wit
15
it So
i6
i2
mR
Ton
g Su
QA
m
3
Suk
hum
Soi
i 13
i4
So
it So
So
wit
umw
wit
um
umw
um
Sukh
kh
kh
Sukh
Su
Su
Rua
Soi
Lau
NZ
4
ri Suk
wit
wit
hum
hum
Suk
it So
13
hro
atdi
2
3
5 6
Suk
umw
7
11
Soi
3
Soi
Soi
28
iP
Saw
ont
ana
Sukh
wit
wit
hum
hum
wit
t Sin
Suk
Suk
Loe
hum
Nana
So
Soi
nmit
kM
tth Wa
hai
an
Soi
Suk
Soi
Phloen Chit
11
LK
10
1
4
Prasa
Aso
Soi
mC
Ch
32
17 8
1
15
Soi
t
u hit
12
ng
uea wit
Loe
hum
Nai
thay Khit
en C
Rur
Sea
aN
1 14 35 31 38 39 26 7 29
Suk
Soi
Wit Som
Lom
Chit Lom
Soi
Nan
Nana
Soi
Chit
Phlo
i4
IN
Witthayu
tral Cen Lom Chit
it
So
i
ad rungr Bam ital Hosp
10
pM
wit
ur
8
9
Pho
Soi
ab
Soi
h etc
Soi
Ph
Soi
um
chat Bura kon ya Chai ital Hosp
7
ye in E Rutn ital Hosp
39
san
41
Soi
hom
ka Mak
kh
Asok
Soi
Nik
6
11
wit
ng P
um
phae
kh
kam
5
n
o
p
q
r
s
t
u
v
w
x
y
1
Noi uan
Ekkam
Lo 25
ai 22
i 19 Ekkama
Thong
Ekkam
Lo 23
6
2
my on
45
Soi N
Camillian Hospital
Thong
ano
g yon nom
g4
3
ng myo
ng Lo
33
ai 21
i Ba
on my
Bano
kamai
Soi Tho Ekkam
Prid
ano
Pridi
Soi Ek
i 28 Ekkama
iB
g4
Prid
2
Ekkamai 23
iB
cha
Thong Lo
Prid
Phet
A ge Ran
buri
Pr
ai 20
id
a iB
no
on my
g4
1 Prid
iB
an
n yo om
g3
7
4
Su kh um So
Sukh
wit
Ekkama
23
9
umw
i4
Ekka
i 18
mai 16
Su um
it So
kh
5
i4
/6
So
i 49
wit
25
9/1 3
37
20 o 13
36 22
6
27 24
Lo Thong
Ekkam
10
Ekkam
ai 5
ai 12
0
1
a
1 mai
kamai
Ekk
ai 1
Soi Ek
o9
34
Ph
lang
m on g
8
it
Ek
ka
ma
i6
8
adi
mM
iP
hro
So
Ek
di
Soi
Ma
P Soi
7
9
ng Lo
hro
Soi K
iP
ng L
Soi Tho
So
Tho
am
it 7
Ekk
j itive Sam vit um Sukh spital Ho
6
mw
21
hu
L hong
ai 14
Suk
T
Ekkam
ka
ma
i4
Sett hab ut
Soi Sa um
10
So i6 5
1
63
i6
Soi
So
t umvi Sukh spital Ho
it
wit
wit
Ekkamai
w
hum
um
Sukhumwit
Su
Thong Lo
Phra Khanong
um
Suk
kh
Soi
40
wit
oi
11
hum
it S
8
i 36
i3
mw
So
Suk
hu
wit
wit So
w
34
Sukhum
Soi 28
m khu
oi it S
kh
Suk
kh
5
59
i5
Soi
15
So
53
PH
Su
Su
wit
Soi
wit
um
hum
kh
wit
51
49
Soi
oi
47
18
Su
Su
hum
Suk
Suk
it S
oi
7 19
wit
mw
hum
hu
it S
Sukhumwit
Soi 26
Soi 24
Sukhumwit
Sukhumwit
Benjasiri Park
3 5
Suk
Suk
mw
i 39
Phrom Phong
hu
ukda
it So
Suk
umw
eng M
Sukh
Soi 35
Soi 33
Sukhumwit
9
42
30
12
11
Clubs 1
Q Bar 3 Insomnia 10 Glow 24 Demo 26 Levels 27 Funky Villa
pubs 11
The Hanrahans The Pickled Liver 13 The Robin Hood 14 The Royal Oak 12
bangkok101.com
13
15
16
The Londoner Black Swan
Nightlife 4
Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Barsu 19 WTF 17 Alchemist 18 Club Perdomo 20 The Iron Fairies
21 Clouds
22
Fat Gut'z 23 Shades of Retro 25 diVino 28 Le Bar de L'Hotel 29 W XYZ 30 Face Bar 31 Marshmallow 32 Oskar Bistro 33 Tuba 34 Sonic 35 Apoteka 36 Water Library 37 Gossip Bar
38 Nest
39
Above Eleven
Embassies IN
India
IR Iran LK
Sri Lanka
PH Philippines
Qatar Ukraine NO Norway QA UA
J U N E 2014 | 107
Map 4 Siam / Chit Lom A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
5 Soi 3
Soi 25
Soi 29
Soi Tonson
Soi 6
Ratchadamri
Soi Lang Suan
NL
Soi Lang Suan1
13
d
Soi 2 Soi 3
Royal Bangkok Sports Club
8
Soi 4
Soi 3
i2
Ratchadamri
Soi Sukhumvit 1
Soi Nai Lert 15
UA
2
US
Soi 4
Soi 5
Soi 5
Chulalongkorn University Area
N
Hotels 1
Pathumwan Princess Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 15 Hotel Muse 16 Okura Prestige 2
200 m 1 000 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market
Arts & Culture 1
BACC – Bangkok Art and Culture Centre 2 Tonson Gallery
KH
BR
Sarasin
Soi 6
9
Soi Ruam Rudi
Soi 7
Sarasin Lumphini Park
Sightseeing
malls
Embassies
a
MBK Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen @ CentralWorld 9 Pratunam Center 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place
CH
Jim Thomson House Museum of Imagery Technology c Madame Tussauds d Queen Savang Vadhana Museum e Siam Ocean World f Ganesha and Trimurti Shrine g Erawan Shrine h Goddess Tubtim Shrine b
Nightlife a CM2 b
Red Sky Bar Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar d P&L Club e Café Trio f Hyde & Seek c
1
2
Switzerland
BR Brazil FI Finland ID Indonesia KH Cambodia NL Netherlands NZ
New Zealand
QA Qatar UA Ukraine UK
United Kingdom
US USA VN Vietnam
Shopping 16 17
Siam Square Pratunam Market
108 | J U N E 2014
Rud
b
NZ QA
uam
9
Soi R
Soi Mahatlek Luang 3
2
15
an
Henri Dunant
Soi 5
Soi 4
Soi11
Soi 3
Soi10
Soi 2
Soi 1 Soi 8
f
Soi Mahatlek Luang 2
8
7
VN
mvit
e
Phloen Chit 16
hith
Soi Mahatlek Luang1
12
Phloen Chit
Chit Lom FI
ukhu
Phaya Thai
13
ng P
Rajamangala University
g 11 7
Soi S
1
2 c
Dua
1
Soi 7
Soi 9
Siam 16 Siam Square
CH
ay
14
UK
Th. Witthayu
c 10 11
Nai Lert Park
Witthayu
10
8
Soi Som Khit
4 e 3
f
Soi Chit Lom
7
Wat Pathum Wanaram
Ratchaprarop
d
Soi Ruam Rudi
Soi 23
Soi 27
Soi 32
Soi 30
Soi 17
Soi 19
Soi 15
Soi 31 Soi 33
12
w ress
Soi Kaesem San1
Chit Lom
Exp
Soi Kaesem San 2
Witthayu Bridge
h 14 b
c 2
National Stadium
6
Soi 22
Prathunam
Rama I 5
6
Saeb
3
Srapathum Palace
1
9
ohn Nak
4
5
lerm
a
17
6
Khlong San
Hua Chang Bridge
3
5
ID
Soi 20
Ratchathewi 2
uri
Cha
Phetchaburi Soi 18
Phetchab
Soi 13
4
1
bangkok101.com
Silom / Sathorn Map 5 E
kho
t are akh
2
ai Th aya
ong
t nan Du He
8 Than Tawan Soi 6
So i S a
Thaniya
Soi 4
Patpong 1 Patpong 2
St. Joseph School
Convent
j
b
Soi Phra Phinit
Suan Phlu Soi 1
5
Silom 14 CA
Ra
Sala Daeng 1/1
6
m
Sala Daeng 1
Soi 5
SG
4
Lumpini Park
Sala Daeng l
Soi 6
Soi 7
Soi 9
Soi 11 Yaek 3
k
Soi 1
h
Chulalongkorn Hospital
5 o m 12 n BT
4
Soi 8
Soi 14
Soi 13
or n S oi 1 1
TW
a
Surawong
Chong Nonsi 17
3
Sala Daeng
Trok Klue
g
11
Soi 3
Soi 7
Soi 10
Soi 12 Soi 9
Decho
Soi 14
Soi 11
Soi 1 8 Soi 16
Soi 13
10
2
nr y
Sap
Naret
Sam Yan
Pan
Pramuan
Cha
Royal Bangkok Sports Club
Ph
Soi S
chit
Suan Phlu – Sathron Soi 3
Rat
Soi 13
u i se – S a t h
en
Soi 15
en Ra Charo
aro
Soi Nom
Soi Phiphat 2
roen
Ch
Ch
King Mongkut’s University of Technology
M
Chulalongkorn University
BE
Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai
L
1
int Lo
63
Surasak
K
V
Phra
aN Phr Soi
6 Soi 2
Soi 2 2 Soi P/2 – Prach radit um
k 0 Soi 3 9
f
1
oi
3
t
i2 So rn tho Sa gS
2 8
1
un Kr 5
aI
Soi Santiphap
ot
suri
3
J
Phloi
MM
So i 51 i5 3
7
run
Iam
So
n ar oe Ch 46
i5
chai
Rat
2
g
i5
44
an
Suras
ak
50
Saphan Taksin
an
Ch
7 d
4
i5
e
Soi 1
i4
e
m
Surawong Kam
Silom
2
So
So
Soi 38 Soi 40
i4
i 4 46 So i 1
SathornSo
S So oi 5 Ch i 61 9 aro en K
6
So So
So
Soi 3
Soi Puttha Os
Maha Se
b 5 c
1
3
idg
FR
Oriental
Taksin
Br
Rak–
4
sway
Soi 3
2 n d Sta
Dumax
in
Ra
4
pres
Cha
2
Bang
N
Ma
en Kr Post
Wat Muang Khae 1 1Wat Suwan
Trok Ph et
Soi 32
H
Hua Lamphong
Si Phraya
Soi 39
Soi 30
Si Phraya PT
ha
ung
Na 3
te E x
Nak roen
N
6
Charo
hon
2
2a Khlong San
N
Tak s
ang
G
AU
95
Su
MX GR
15
p
7
8
lu 6 an Ph
Suan
V
Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai
MY
13
aI
Soi 1
Soi Saw
n
Marine Dept.
Lat Ya
F
Soi 5
D
anagarindra
4
Naradhiwas Raj
C N
as Naradhiwind Rajanagar ra
B
Soi Wanit 2
A
Soi Nantha Mozart
Phlu 8
9
Immigration Office
Hotels 1
bars with views
a Threesixty The Peninsula 2 Millenium Hilton d Sky Bar 3 Shangri-La o Panorama 4 Center Point Silom p Moon Bar 5 Mandarin Oriental Nightlife 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton 7 Lebua at State Tower b La Casa Del Habano 8 Holiday Inn c Bamboo Bar 9 Chaydon Sathorn f 661 Silom g Barley Bistro & Bar Bangkok 10 Pullman Bangkok j Eat Me k Tapas Hotel G 11 Le Meridien Bangkok Pubs 12 Crowne Plaza e Jameson's Bangkok Lumpini 13 Banyan Tree h The Pintsman 14 Dusit Thani l Molly Malone's 15 The Sukothai m The Barbican 16 Sofitel SO n O'Reilly's 17 W Bangkok
Arts & Culture 1
AT Austria
Shopping
MY Malaysia
1
Robinsons River City Shopping 3 Silom Village 4 Silom / Patpong Night-Market 5 Jim Thompson Store 2
N
AU Australia BE Belgium
200 m
BT Bhutan
1 000 ft
CA Canada DE Germany DK Denmark GR Greece FR France MX Mexico
1
N
River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market
MM Myanmar PT Portugal SG Singapore TW Taiwan
Sightseeing a b
bangkok101.com
Embassies
Serindia Gallery 2 Silom Galleria: Number 1 Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, Taivibu Gallery, Gossip Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Bangkokian Museum 5 Alliance Francaise
Snake Farm MR Kukrit’s House
J U N E 2014 | 109
Map 6 Yaowarat / Pahurat (Chinatown & Little India ) A
B
C
1
Ba n D ok
h1u li n
E
F
G
H
Ma
M ai
J
itri
Ch
K
L
M
it
et i Ph Tr
iP
r ad
u
M it tr ph an
na
So
Hua Lamphong
So
i7
3 h
g j
Y So i 3
So
Y
un
Y5
Ch aro en Ya ow a r at K r
i1
So ng Saw at
i2 So
2
Y
C
at
it Tr i M si ang
2
P
S ong W
a n it 1
ur han
Ch aiy aphun
Trok Itsaranuphap
g
S oi W
D oi
uan
5
a ut an P h Sa p h
t Phu
6
g
han
N
ae n
S ap
Phu
t
han
Tha Din Daeng
D Din
Memorial Bridge
S ap
S
Hotels Grand China Princess Bangkok Shanghai Mansion 1
200 m 1 000 ft River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market
Arts & Culture 1
Chalermkrung Theatre Samphanthawong Museum 3 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre 2
a
Princess Mother Memorial Park
Th
e pir Em
K la
4
110 | J U N E 2014
Na
S
N
Ba
ha
R at
ng
Ma
Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station
Rama IV Y
Phadungdao–Soi Texas
Y So i 9
9
Y Soi 11
Pl an g N am
So i 18
So i 6
S oi 4
So i 16
So i 21
on M an gk
Soi 14
10
it
aw gT
Marine Dept.
2
1
ong
nt
Ch
Rajchawongse
o nM 3
N
N
Soi 8
Y Soi 15
d
w
Sa
c
ha oi T
9
So i 19
Su ap a Ratch awon g
Y Soi 17
Y Soi 21 Y Soi 19
Soi 17
it 1
A nu
f
Ma ngkon
6
Y S 10 CK S 12
Soi 8
Soi 10
Ma ha Ch ak Lu ean Rit
Sam peng Lane – Soi Wan
Soi Aner Keng
P
t ur a hah 5
Y Soi 23
S oi
r ap
i
1
Rachi ni Atsad ang
8
So i 15
So i 11
9
Bo
S
ar
r at 1
2
7
a
ha
Yaow
Bu
So
i4
at
W
nu
j
i
t
um
ng
1
e
Ch ak kr aw at
an
n
u Kr
Pha
gs Ran
C ha kp he
h kP
ip Th
6
6 oi
So
oe
7
t Yo
So
i5 o Tr
ar
m
So i 13
h at
h
Charoen Krun g
iP S ir
Ch
is
ut
i3
kW
Ti 5
rip
ai Ch ha Ma
an ak on
Ugn on
g
o Tr
Th
4
Sa
8
itri
em
Romaneenart Park
gT
Ma
p
as
3
K h lo n
a iph
gK
ip
h ire n
un
i S ir
at P hom W
Kr
So
b
k Wor ac ha
2
ng
Si Thamm athirat
Lua h at
Trok
Sida
S oi C
D
Temples
Markets
1 Long Krasuang Market Wat Ratburana School 2 Ban Mo ( Hi-Fi Market) Wat Pra Phiren c Wat Bophit Phimuk 3 Pak Khlong Talat d Wat Chakrawat (Flower Market) e Wat Chaichana Songkhram 4 Yot Phimai Market f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat 5 Pahurat –Indian Fabric Market g Wat Samphanthawongsaram 6 Sampeng Market 7 Woeng Nakhon Kasem Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of (Thieves Market) 8 Khlong Tom Market the Golden Buddha) 9 Talat Kao (Old Market) Sightseeing 10 Talat Mai (New Market) j Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle a
b
bangkok101.com
an
N
4
K
So
i2
9
Map 7 Rattanakosin (Oldtown) A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
Ra
ma
14
N
So
Rama VIII Bridge
J
K
L
M
Ph
its
VII
I
et md
k
ata
iW or
ok nN noe cha Rat
iB
op
t
hit
Maha ng
N
6
Memorial Bridge
Bat
Wo rach ak
ng A
ph
im uk
Wat Wat Bophit Chakrawat Phimuk
wat kkra Cha
Son
gW at
Phi
12
ren
Soi B an
un
g 13
14
Ya ow a
ra
Anu
won g
N
Kr
mW at
t
g
Market Tot Phimai Market
Boriphat
Chai
ara
en
Ch ak kr aw at
Yao w So
aro
ho
15
aw on
7
Cha kph e Pak Khlong t
ng O
Soi Mahannop 2
Unakan Siri Phong
Chai ng
Ch
gT
Ra tch
Ya i k ko ng
apho
t Ta la lo N
Ba
Wat Liap
Kh
S
Rajinee
g lon Kh
ng
Kh
T oi
So iW at Ka nla ya
Ban Mo
Sett
Wat Kanlayannamit
Phir
Tri Ph e
n haka
am
ha
lon
Sri K
n ari Am un Ar bangkok101.com
Phahurat
Saphan Phut
Soi
Wat Arun (Temple of the dawn)
N
Phra Phi Phit
Museum of Siam
10
11
Ma ha Ch an k
tu
Che
Thip Wari
t
at har Ma
Wat Arun
n pho
Kh
Bor iph at
Tha Tien
at
Royal Theatre Burapha
Wat Pho
8
9
Luan
Sam Yot
Trok Phan um
8
Wat Saket
g
Charoen Krung
i Sanam Cha
N
Soi Sirip at
Rommaninat Park
Soi Sa Song Soi Long Tha
7
Muang
Soi Siric hai 2 Soi Siric hai 1
Ch ak ra ase Ph m et
ng
i Wa
Soi Phra ya Si
Rat
Lan Luang
Phan Fah Leelard
Bumrung
Wat Suthat
Ti Thong
Wat Ratchabophit
Saranrom Park
Tha
Ratchabophit
isut
Grand Palace
mran
Giant Swing
Trok Sukha1
Trok Sukha 2
Soi Sa
6
an
Saw
ng Rak
g Tai
City Hall
uang
Fuang Nakhon
Saranrom
Khlong Lot
Chao Phraya
5
Damro
Klan
Wat Ratchanatdaram
Tanao
Buranasat
aitri
noen
Wat
Trok Ratchanatdaram Sin
Bumrung M
Kalayana M
Wat Ratchapradit
Trok Nava
Phraeng Phuthon
Wat Phra Kaew
Dam
Ph ra Po kk lao
Tha Chang
Phraeng Nara
Lak Mueang
Na Phra Lan
n kho
Na
Democracy Monument
Mahannop
hrut
K Trok
ei Na Hap Pho
Tri Phet
Wat Rakhang
Bunsiri
g Nuea
Klang
Trok hep T Sath hida ien Ram
Trok W
Soi Silipakorn
9
lang Tai
k Khro lonSgake L ot W at T
ee Rachin ng d a Ats a
Ratcha Damn oen N ai
ra Tha
t
Maharat
Wat Mahathat
Sanam Luang
o
Khlo
noen K
T
Silpokaorn University N
noen Klan
noen
Soi Dam
Na Ph
Amulet Market
Soi Dam
a Dam
an
nL
Dam
an Ratch
a Ch
Ba
Dinso
ao
Wang Lang
g
Tro k
Dinso
Kl
aos
Thammasart University Maharaj Ph r
4
on
hu
Bowonniwet ViHara
i ttr
in
Kh
ap h
So
iS am Ph long sen ra 2 Su Bang me L Wat n amp
i
Bu
P ra Ph
p sa Ka
Ch
m Ra
ok Tr
t de m So ge rid
aB
National Arts Gallery
an T ula
10
ais
Tan i
Du
N
Kh
Maha
ho
ng
Kr
kr aP
ray Ph National Museum
So
Tr ok
Wat Chana Songkhram
S
ak
o ha
Bu
3
Pra cha T
ha e Ka iC
i
ttr
am
R oi
National Theatre
t
C et md
Thonburi N11 Thonburi Railway Railway
asa tK isu
P
13
N
Phra Atith
hip
W
So
Khlong Bangkok Noi
ith
At
a hr
2
m
i
Sam
ao
s en
Kl 12
N
se g an Ka Lu g k un Lu Kr
in aP
r Ph Wat Saodung
Phra Pin Klao Bridge
1
an ulo
16
5
Rajchawongse
J U N E 2014 | 111
M Y B A N G KO K
Joseph Boroski
What's the most important aspect of making or designing a good cocktail? People often ask me for the best way to make a Martini. Or a Manhattan or a Margarita. The answer depends heavily on the person who will be drinking it. It’s the same for creating or making any cocktail. The drink will always be much better if I know who it is for. Will it be drunk while dressed to the T or while wearing a swimsuit? While sitting in an outdoor roof area overlooking a city or in a basement lounge that is dimly lit? Do you have a favourite drink? I think my favourite drink varies depending on where I am, what time of day it is, whether I will be enjoying it with food or on its own, and who will be making it. That said, I have a real weak spot for a well-made Negroni. I know that’s a pretty typical bartender go-to drink but you really can’t control who, and what, you love. A good Clover Club seldom fails to win my heart over as well. You spent a long time working in New York – what persuaded you to move to Bangkok? New York, I must say, is the best city in the world. Being such a competitive environment for probably everything imaginable has resulted in the best of the best in all industries — 112 | J U N E 2014
and cocktails are certainly included in that. On the other hand, the fast pace and constant drain of Manhattan can start to dig away at your soul. After the majority of a decade constantly travelling from place to place making cocktails and training bartenders in over 30 countries, I found myself in Bangkok drinking a young coconut in the sun at the rooftop pool of a five-star hotel, in love with an angel disguised as a Thai woman and came to the realisation that I had the life. How has bar culture and cocktail culture changed in Bangkok over the past few years? It has improved in leaps and bounds. Drink-seekers in Bangkok have moved on from Blue Kamikazes and Red Label with soda to Gin Fizzes and Platinum Label Old-Fashioneds. People are now enjoying the process of drinking as opposed to only the result. You have an eye for spotting trends – what do you think will be the next big thing in Bangkok? In a word — exclusivity. Venues in Bangkok have up until now pretty much been accessible to everyone. But as the city evolves, trend-seekers are searching for places that not everyone can show up.
Photograph: Lentils
Joseph Boroski began his career in the beverage industry at age 17, selling wines and spirits. It wasn’t long before bartending taught him a passion for making cocktails. Joseph spent most of his adult life in New York City and it was there, behind numerous bars, that he honed his craft. He now spends much of his time at his Bar and Hospitality School in Bangkok, where he is based.
Where's your favourite place to go for a drink? J.Boroski Mixology. It’s my own tasting lab at my BAR:School. I make cocktails there myself and have been known to drink several there as well. I have been to— what? — a thousandplus bars worldwide. It has a level of comfort and intimacy that I haven’t seen anywhere else. And the drinks — well, let’s say I give it my best. Where's your favourite place to go for a meal? When it comes to the best of Western food in Bangkok, I’m torn between Jess Barnes’ simple plates at Opposite Mess Hall and Tim Butler’s luxurious meals at Eat Me. When I’m in the mood for Thai food, which is most of the time, I really enjoy Ian Kittichai’s over-the-top flavours at Issaya Siamese Club and especially love the unique dishes of Nhoi Ouypornchaisakul and Baimohn Tanataveetram at Rock. And finally, for a home-cooked Italian fix, the food of Paolo Vitaletti and the American hospitality of Jarrett Wrisley at Appia. Where do you take visitors for a real Bangkok experience? I escape to Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park, just over the river but worlds away, where I can spend the entire day among its old-growth forest and the neighbouring tree-lined streets. bangkok101.com