T h e i n a ugura l
P h uk e t Fo o d & W ine Ex po
w i ll s h o w c a s e t h e v ery b est g o ur m e t c u isine,
t h e f i n e s t w i n e s & spirit s,
a n d t h e la t e s t i nnov a t ions
i n lux ur y k i t c h e n p r o duc t s & serv ic es.
It’s the food event of the year!
9-11 M AR CH 2018
RPMIEC • ROYAL PHUKET MARINA PHUKET • THAILAND
www.phuketfoodandwine.com
Org anis e d By
H o s t V e n ue s
O f f ic ial M ed ia Par tn er
S
Publisher’s Letter
taying healthy is a chore no matter where you live, but in Bangkok it can be especially challenging. The air quality here is not exactly the greatest, the heat can make you extremely lazy, and the abundance of fried food and cold beer can wreak havoc on willowy waistlines. But if you know where to look, there are plenty of health-conscious options is this town—whether you’re looking for something as extreme as a full body detox treatment, or you just want a tasty vegetarian meal for a change. Our cover feature (starting on pg. 14) includes plenty of info on how to stay fit, fed, and focused, and also profiles some local personalities who have made better living their main objective in life. We’ve even included a list of Thailand’s best wellness resorts, so you can plan ahead for a healthy holiday (see pg. 30). Speaking of healthy holidays, our travel feature this issue focuses on Chiang Rai, and the surrounding Golden Triangle (starting on pg. 44). It’s an area that was once infamous for its rampant opium trade, but now it’s one of the country’s biggest producers of organic produce, and its locally grown coffee has gained accolades worldwide—both agricultural transformations were made possible through Thailand’s Royal Projects initiatives. It’s also a place to breathe fresh mountain air, take peaceful bike rides down country roads, and let the province’s “slow life” attitude take hold. Finally, our regular columns and features will keep you up-to-date on what’s new and notable in Bangkok. From art exhibitions, community events, and film screenings, to new restaurants and bars worth checking out, there’s more than enough to keep your social calendar filled this month. All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. com. A couple of clicks are all it Enjoy. takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia. Mason Florence Publisher
What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2017 | 5
CONTENTS 16
CITY PULSE 10
Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in and around Bangkok
12
My Bangkok Former Miss Universe Natalie Glebova shares her health and beauty tips
14
Best of BKK The path to living well can take many forms—from exercise, to eating right, to medical procedures such as detox cleanses
26
Special Report Bangkok Hospital’s Dr. Jakrin Lumlert on sleep disorders
28
Made in Thailand Superstar chef James Noble lives by the sacred rule of sustainability on his organic garden
30
Out & About Ten amazing health-conscious vacation getaway spots across Thailand
SNAPSHOTS
42
61
TRAVEL 44
Chiang Rai 101 In this special 20-page travel destination feature we explore Chiang Rai and the ‘Golden Triangle’
46
See & Do in Chiang Rai Night and day diversions, artistic temples, and more
48
Out & About Chiang Rai Cycling journey with Smiling Albino Tours Where to Stay The Legend; Katiliya Mountain Resort
34
Tom’s Two Satangs On the Central Plains
36
Bizarre Thailand Guest columnist Alasdair McLeod visits the Naga underworld
50 54
38
Joe’s Bangkok Sacred love at the Trimurti Shrine
55
The Golden Triangle Visiting Doi Tung and the famed Hall of Opium
40
Very Thai The many faces of Thai massage
56
Focus on Phayao Silence is golden in peaceful Phayao province
58
Over The Border The road to Kengtung, in Myanamar’s Shan State
62
Visitor’s Guide A map of featured attractions on Chiang Rai province
64
Upcountry Now This month’s events and festival throughout Thailand
42 Heritage Wandering along Ratchadamnoen Klang Avenue
On the cover
Health holidays are a booming business, and Phuket’s acclaimed Thanyapura Sports Hotel is definitely one of Thailand’s most fitness-centric properties. And though its focus is on exercise, mindfulness and meditation are just as important at this glorious getaway. See more about wellness travel starting on page 30. Photo courtesy of Thanyapura Sports Hotel
Making Merit Luxury resorts support the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation
ART & CULTURE 66 70
Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city Museum Spotlight The Red Cross Snake Farm and Snake Museum
Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | J U N E 2017
bangkok101.com
Aldo’s Bistro
A Reflection of your Lifestyle Renowned French Chef and author Herve Frerard brings his tantalizing cuisine that has been reserved for Thailand’s crème de la crème for year to Aldo’s Bistro. Aldo’s is a perfect dining venue where French food is accompanied by fine wine selected just for you.
The Cascade Club, 7th Floor, 7 Ascott Sathorn Building, South Sathorn Road, Bangkok 10120
RSVP : 02 676 6982 and 02 676 6969 www.cascadeclubandspa.com
aldosbistro
CONTENTS 72
Cinema Scope This month’s film news and screenings
73
Music Makers Local band The Lowdowns turn up the heat
74
Photo Feature Canadian photographer Tim Pelling explores Bangkok’s murky waterways
72
102
89
FOOD & DRINK 80
Food & Drink Updates
82
Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners
83
Hot Plates Loulou Forks & Glasses
84
Special Report The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017 awards
86
Restaurant Reviews Utage; Wild & Co.; Dining By Design; Alex Brasserie
90
Breaking Bread With Edoardo Bonavolta from About Eatery
92
Eat Like Nym Is the new BMA ruling street food’s last stand?
94
Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok
NIGHTLIFE 100
Bar Reviews Eat Me; Backstage Bar
106
Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok
LIFE+STYLE 110
Lifestyle Updates
112
Spa Products Luxurious lotions and more
113
Spa Feature Tips from Harnn Spa
SIGNING OFF 114
Nightlife Updates
Did You Know?... PaleoRobbie brings a touch of “cavemen cuisine” to Thailand’s hardcore dieters
ART DIRECTOR
CONTRIBUTING
PUBLISHED BY
Narong Srisaiya
PHOTOGRAPHERS
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Sven Ellsworth, Sam Kai Kwong, Mark Wiens
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120
Thanakrit Skulchartchai PUBLISHER
STRATEGISTS
Mason Florence
Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
102
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond
GENERAL MANAGER
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi SALES MANAGER
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Orawan Ratanapratum
Parinya Krit-Hat
Jim Algie, Robin Banks, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwell-Smith, Helen Highwater, Robin Westley Martin, Alasdair McLeod, Rianka Mohan, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Melissa Richter, Gary Anthony Rutland, Craig Sauers, Lekha Shankar, Tom Vitayakul, Nadia Willan, Simon Yugler
SALES AND MARKETING
MANAGING EDITOR
Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE
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Julia Offenberger EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS
Phen Parkpien Anansit Sangsawang
Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon SALES EXECUTIVE
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Pimpimol Leetrakul
© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
CITY PULSE | metro beat
JUNE’S HOTTEST TICKETS June 23-24
For the first time ever pop goddess Britney Spears will perform in Bangkok, taking the stage at Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani) for two consecutive evenings. The American pop singer is best known for her massive hits during the ‘90s and early 2000s, and chart toppers like “Oops... I Did It Again”, “Toxic”, and “Hit Me Baby One More Time” have made this dirty dancing diva a household name around the globe. She’s sold over 100 million albums in her career, making her one of the best-selling artists of all time. Currently traveling the world to promote her 9th studio album, Glory, the Asian leg of her tour will also see her performing in Manila and Hong Kong. Tickets start from B3,500. www.thaiticketmajor.com
YOGA EVENT June 18
Now in its 3rd year, the International Day of Yoga is an annual observance that highlights the important role healthy living plays in everyone’s lives. The idea was originally proposed by Narendra Modi, the Prime Minister of India, at the UN General Assembly. In Bangkok, the mass gathering—over 7,000 people took part in 2016—will once again take place at Chulalongkorn University, on the large lawn in front of the royal statues of King Chulalongkorn and King Vajiravudh. The free event begins at 6:30am, continuing till 8am, and all participants will be presented with a T-shirt, refreshments, and drinking water.
COOL DESIGNS Until June 6
There’s still a few more days to visit the design exhibit Cross the Line, on the 2nd floor of the Sombatpermpoon Gallery (12, Sukhumvit Soi 1). The exhibition has been organized by the Asia Designer Communication Platform (ADP), an international association which addresses the interests of the design community and promotes design as a whole. The exhibitors are celebrated and talented international designers, from fields including architecture, interior design, industrial design, and graphic design. www.sombatpermpoongallery.com 10 | J U N E 2017
MUSIC FESTIVALS June 3-4
Noise Market 6 will take place this month at Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd), and the 2-day event will feature an activity and performance market showcasing the best in Bangkok’s DIY indie music, art, design, fashion, film and printing worlds. In addition, the theme of this month’s festival is “precycling” and organizers encourage visitors to “think before producing and consuming. The fun gets underway at 3pm, and continues till 10:30pm, and admission is free. For more information, visit the group’s official Facebook page. www.facebook.com/noisemarketfest
June 17
In honour of what would have been the 4th anniversary of Overground—a much-loved and much-missed live music venue and bar, formerly on Sukhumvit Soi 22—some of Bangkok’s music makers and performance artists are staging the Overground Festival. It will be held at Brownstone Studio (1395, Sukhumvit Soi 77), starting at 5pm, and will feature such Overground mainstays as the legendary Afrika Islam (right), Wasabi Bytes, DJ Rory Breaker-Morant, and more.
ART INSTALLATION Until June 18
A massive interactive art installation entitled The Beach is now on display in Bangkok at Central Embassy (1031 Ploenchit Rd), as part of a celebration to mark the mall’s official “completion”, as well as the opening of the new Park Hyatt Bangkok. The installation, created by Brooklyn design firm Snarkitechture, reimagines a day at the beach by replacing sand with 1 million recyclable plastic balls—and the public is invited to jump right in! The installation made its debut in Washington, in 2015, and is now on a world tour—with a brief stop in our fair city. www.snarkitecture.com/the-beach bangkok101.com
metro beat | CITY PULSE
ITALIAN FESTIVAL IN THAILAND June 1-4
In celebration of all things Italian, CentralWorld shopping complex (999/9 Rama 1 Rd) is hosting Italian Week 2017. This four-day event will showcase some of the best that Italy has to offer, including amazing wine, food and fashion.
June 15
Saxophonist Francesco Cafiso is one of the most precocious talents in today’s jazz scene. He will be performing at the Bangkok University auditorium, city campus (119, Rama 4 Rd), and will be accompanied by pianist Mario Schiavone. Start time is 7pm and admission is free.
June 17
This year’s Bangkok International Piano Festival get underway at the Siam Ratchada Auditorium (GF, Fortune Town, Ratchadaphisek Rd). This evening’s line-up includes a much anticipated performance by the acclaimed Italian-born pianist and clavichord player Giovanni De Cecco (left). Start time is 7pm and admission is free.
June 21
The oddly named Cherries on a Swing Set is actually an Italian vocal group, consisting of five members, who use classical techniques such as vocal polyphony, and modern techniques ranging from beat box to instrumental imitation. This concert is part of the international calendar of Festa della Musica 2017, and will be presented at the Music Hall of Chulalongkorn University (254 Phaya Thai Rd). Start time is 7pm and admission is free. For more information about upcoming Italian Festival in Thailand 2017 events, visit the official Facebook page: www.facebook.com/italianfestivalthailand
LATIN DANCE June 23
The Bangkok International Latin Dance Championships will be taking over the Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok (89 Soi Wat Suan Plu), and the winners will have the chance to compete in the upcoming Latin Dance Championships in North America. Both professionals and amateurs are welcome to compete—separately, of course—in the Bachata and Salsa showcases. Appropriate costumes are required by all competitors. For ladies that means fishnet stockings and high heel Latin dance shoes, while men must wear a jazz shoe (no sneakers), or Cuban heels. www.colorsoflatindance.com
RUNNING EVENTS
THEATRE PERFORMANCES June 2-4
The Bangkok Theatre Festival Asia Focus is an experimental platform for artists to show works-in-progress. The final three shows at the Thong Lor Art Space (Sukhumvit Soi 55) will feature Beloved, a modern dance show by Cambodia’s Prumsodon Ok & Natyarasa ensemble. Tickets are B550 and showtime is 8pm. www.bangkoktheatrefestival.org
June 22-July 2
Be sure to catch Miss Julie, being staged at the Culture Collective performance space, located on the 3rd floor Chatrium Residence Riverside Bangkok (26/276 Charoenkrung Soi 70). This classic play by August Strindberg, about a wealthy young woman who has an affair with her servant, is here set in present-day Bangkok with a cast of Indian actors—heightening the drama with the inclusion of caste and religious conflicts. Performances are Thursday to Sunday nights starting at 8pm (7pm on Thursdays). Admission is B1,000 and seating is limited. www.culture-collective.com/productions/miss-julie bangkok101.com
June 17
The Skechers Blacklight Run Thailand is the brightest and most fun 5 km run anywhere! This evening event begins at 5pm, and the after party goes from 8pm till 11pm. The initial meeting and starting point is the Airport Link Makkasan, and the regular entry fee is B700 which includes Skechers T-shirt, drawstring bag, glow tattoo, and race bib (or for B1,400 you can get a VIP pass, which also gets you LED shutter shades, LED rings, blacklight glow shoelaces, and a glow baton). blacklightrun.in.th/en/bangkok J U N E 2017 | 11
CITY PULSE | my bangkok
Natalie Glebova
In 2005 Russian-born Natalie Glebova won the title of ‘Miss Universe’. Now based in Bangkok, she revels in her role her as mother, traveler, blogger, professional DJ, and beauty and health promoter.
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back to shape. What you eat, is how you look. You need to listen to your body. I’m very particular about exercising, and I recently joined the Guava Pass program, which allows you to take classes in many exerciseroutines at various boutique gyms in Bangkok. I especially enjoy doing the ‘High Intensity Interval Training’ (HIIT). And thanks to YSIS Entertainment, my celebrity booking agency, I’m as busy now as before, and so I need to ensure that I’m in good shape.
he was born in Russia, migrated to Canada, settled in Thailand, and recently married an entrepreneur from Panama. In short, Natalie Glebova truly exemplifies the term Miss Universe, a title she won in 2005 that would her life forever. Ironically, the pageant that year was held in Bangkok—at Impact Arena— the city that would become Natalie’s future home. What were you doing before you entered the Miss Universe pageant? I studied Information Technology Management in Toronto, and had taken up a job. But when I decided to enter the pageant, I quit the job and worked hard, at every level, on the pageant—diet, exercise, speaking skills, and runway skills. Did you ever expect to be crowned Miss Universe? Never! I didn’t even expect to be crowned Miss Canada, as I was told that no immigrant would ever win it. But after winning Miss Canada, I worked even harder for the Miss Universe title. Winning it was as huge as winning a lottery! What were the most memorable moments of your year-long “reign”? The best part was the travelling. I went to as many as 24 countries, and was based the whole year in New York. I saw life from every angle. I met the ‘Who’s Who’ of the world, but also visited the slums in India and AIDS centers in South Africa. The toughest part was always having to look good, as I was being photographed all the time. Did you choose to live in Bangkok because of your marriage to tennis icon Paradorn Srichapan? No, I fell in love with Thailand even before I met Paradorn. I kept coming back to Bangkok from New York to
12 | J U N E 2017
do a big Singha campaign, and that’s where we met. We were married for four years, but had nothing in common and parted amicably [in 2011]. But I continued to live in Bangkok because I loved the city, and was doing several things here. What are some of your past and current health-related projects? I have always been a health freak, and I wrote a health blog for five years, followed by the book Healthy Happy Beautiful, which became very popular. I also took part in many beauty and ad-campaigns, and I’m currently the brand ambassador of the Thai BSC Cosmetics brand. You and your new husband Dean Kelly Jr. recently started a family with the birth of your daughter last year. How has motherhood changed you? It’s given me a purpose to life, and I feel so fulfilled. We named our daughter Maya after Maya Bay, in Phuket—our favourite. She’s a very easy, friendly child, and loves being in front of the camera. In fact, she has already done an ad for ‘Enfant’ baby products. Was it hard to get back into shape after giving birth? I’ve always eaten healthy, and avoided junk food, and so it was easy to get
What is your definition of beauty? Beauty is not just about good looks. It’s about confidence, poise, and knowing who you are. Tell us about your ‘Travelbook’ online business. Dean and I founded it together, and we run it as a family business. We are very active travelers, and use Travelbook intensively. It’s a platform and marketplace for travelers to share information, and do bookings based on peer-to-peer recommendations. You can join it by “invitation”, and we have invited many people to share their experiences on the site. What are some of your favourite hang-out spots in Bangkok? Bangkok has so many great hang-out spots. One of our favourites, is Roots, in K Village, which has a good family atmosphere and serves great Jamaican dishes like jerk chicken. What do you love, or perhaps not love, about life in Bangkok? I love the ease of life here and the service culture. What I don’t like is that Bangkok is not a walking city. But, it is truly one of the amazing cities of the world. Interview by Lekha Shankar www.ysisentertainment.com bangkok101.com
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Plumbing the Depths of Detox From colonic therapy to raw rood restaurants By Jim Algie
HYDROHEALTH Having a tube inserted in your bottom so a steady flow of water cleanses the inner recesses of your colon, while a pretty therapist massages your stomach and points to a mirror on the wall, smiles and says, “Look, pooh pooh coming out,” is a surreal experience that’s grounded in a more earthy reality: our bodies’ plumbing systems are cesspits of accumulated toxins. Getting rid of these toxins can be achieved by three different means, says Dr. Niyada Tharncharoen (below) from Balanze by HydroHealth—through breathing exercises such as pranayama, through sweating them out in a sauna, and through colonics (also known as colon hydrotherapy). The latter two are included in the Four-Hour Detox Package at this impeccably decorated, state-of-the-art facility that exudes the subdued grandeur of a five-star spa in a classy hotel. Guests must first fill out a form asking about any physical or mental conditions that might be troubling them—from fatigue to depression—and list any recent injuries or operations, and any previous experiences with colonics. Once the form has been filled in a therapist will take your blood pressure and weigh you before the consultation with one of the center’s three doctors. Dr. Niyada proves to be both an excellent consultant and a fascinating conversationalist, as we discuss everything from the chemicals found in seafood to the millennia-spanning treatment of detoxification that goes at least as far back to the Indian system known as Ayurveda, which is some 5,000 years old. She believes that “lifestyle, exercise and diet” are the building blocks of good health, but doing a colonics session every few months can hit the reset button for the body’s lymphatic system, which helps to drain toxins and waste products, just as it serves double and triple duty in service to both the immune and circulatory systems. 14 | J U N E 2017
Part one of the program is a two-hour massage. This strain of massage borrows from the more gentle Swedish school with a few sweeping flourishes taken from the traditional Thai discipline, with a few pokes here and there to prod the lymphatic system into discharging some of its toxic cargo. The massage is a precursor to the colonics. Balanze is the only such facility in Thailand which has its own reverse osmosis water treatment plant. Imported from the US, this expensive apparatus utilizes five different purification processes to ensure that the water is as pure as that used in top hospitals for kidney dialysis. The elaborate system of tubes and pumps is hidden behind a sliding screen. Ask the therapist if you can sneak a peek.
Without going into the scatological details too deeply, let’s just say your colon puts up with a lot crap. Because your bowel movements are regular is no guarantee that your plumbing could not be running more efficiently and taking less of a toll on the rest of your body. bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE As someone who has spent a whole week at the Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary and Holistic Spa Resort on Koh Samui doing a detox program, which included three colonics, and has also tried a few other one-off treatments at different centers, I don’t find it to be an unpleasant experience. After you insert the tube about an inch and a half into your anus while sitting atop a contraption that is like something out of a gynecologist’s office, the therapist comes to check that the tube is secure and turns on the water. You can keep yourself covered with a smock and not feel even the slightest tic of nervousness or embarrassment. As the water swirls around your entrails, yes, there are fleeting moments of discomfort, but for most of the 40 minutes it’s smooth sailing in a fully sanitized and odorless sanctum. The therapist will come to check up on you regularly, and after 15 or 20 minutes rubs your abdomen to aid the waste process. All the while, you can read a magazine, play Candy Crush, or post on Facebook as the poisons of urban life are purged from your system leaving a wealth of positive effects in their wake. www.hydrohealth.co.th NOTE: From now until Dec. 31st, 2017, Balanze by HydroHealth is offering Bangkok 101 readers a special 10% discount on select treatments. Call 02 250 7800 for more details. RASAYANA RETREAT If you’re in search of a more mid-range facility offering colonics in Bangkok give the Rasayana Retreat a whirl. Tucked away in a quiet soi off Sukhumvit Soi 39, this center has a wonderfully tranquil air and relaxed vibe. Entering the retreat is like leaving Bangkok—it’s an oasis of calm in a desert of racket and sun-blasted concrete. In business for more than 10 years, and having acquired a long list of loyal regulars, Rasayana—the name is an ancient Sanskrit term meaning “rejuvenation”—also serves as a community center for the good-health set, featuring regular workshops on everything from cooking “raw food” to self-empowerment and yoga. The Half-Day Detox Package, priced at a reasonable B5,650, includes a one-hour lymphatic massage, a stint in the far-infra-red sauna, colon hydrotherapy, and a healthy meal at the end. The heavyset and weight-conscious will be pleased to learn that 30 to 40 minutes in the sauna can make you shed some 600 calories. Another ancient practice, the sauna is the drip-bleed approach to detox, as if your body were shedding tears of relief as all the built-up poisons seep through the skin. The fulfilling finale of the program at Rasayana Retreat is the drink and meal in the Raw Food Café. It was news to me that “raw” or “living” are interchangeable terms when related to food that has been cooked at less than 140 degrees Fahrenheit (43°C), so that valuable nutrients, vitamins, and minerals are not burned off in the cooking process. bangkok101.com
The varied menu of dishes on offer, from soups and salads to pastas and a mushroom burger or shitake sandwich, means that the Raw Food Café has developed a healthy following of gourmands. While writing and researching this story I stumbled across the latest social media photo trend: “ribcage bragging”, where young women show off their ribs. It’s another reminder that in our vain quest for physical attractiveness, we tend to focus more and more on our exteriors and less and less on the inner workings of our bodies. Ironically, as I learned from the experts at both Balanze and Rasayana Retreat, the outer façade and inner body are inextricably intertwined. So when you detoxify the results go well beneath the skin while also leaving a healthy glow on your face and in your eyes. But none of your Facebook friends and Instagram fans need to know the real story lurking behind your youthful radiance. www.rasayanaretreat.com J U N E 2017 | 15
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
A New Dis-Position Studying yoga brought a renewed love of life to former wild man Nathaniel Simha Interview by Bruce Scott Photos by Sven Ellsworth
A
lthough he now resides in Bangkok, 30-year-old Nathaniel Simha originally hails from a small town on the East Coast of Australia. He also admits to having many “past lives”, including journalist, radio announcer, and drummer in a punk rock band, but these days the focus is on yoga and healthy living. Tell us about the road that led to a life in Asia revolving around yoga. When I was 21 my house in Australia was flooded and I lost everything I owned. This freed me of attachment to material possessions and at that point I decided to save up some money to travel. I came to Thailand at the beginning of my world travels, and immediately loved it. After that I continued travelling, eventually ending up living in Canada in 2011. While there I got a job as the shift supervisor at the country’s largest yoga studio. I had never tried yoga before but I practiced every day for a year while I was there and learned a lot. I fell in love with yoga as it helped me to fall in love with
16 | J U N E 2017
life again. In 2012 I came back to Asia and have been living here in Bangkok ever since. When, and why, did you start teaching yoga in Bangkok? During 2012, while I was travelling around Asia, I spent a month living on Koh Phangan and did my yoga teacher training course at Blooming Lotus yoga school. After that I got some jobs as a tour group leader taking foreign customers on holidays around the islands of Thailand, and up through Northern Thailand and Laos. Eventually I tired of travelling and settled in Bangkok. I didn’t know where else to go, so I started sitting on Khao San Road inviting travellers to do yoga with me in the park the following morning, and to pay whatever they wanted. I guess I didn’t have much of a plan, but I was just doing what felt right. I really believe in trusting intuition.
bangkok101.com
Teaching photos by Raw Pixel
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
Are you officially affiliated with any one studio in Bangkok now? I am certified with Yoga Alliance as a RYT-200 (Registered Yoga Teacher at the 200-hours level), and I specialize in teaching private and small group classes. I’m also currently creating a corporate meditation program which will help employees to deal with stress and improve productivity. Recently I’ve been teaching at Yoga Elements, and am very grateful to owner and head teacher Adrian Cox for giving me the opportunity to work at Bangkok’s best studio. I also ran a yoga retreat in Kanchanaburi for a year, ran a successful community project for the Bangkok Farmer’s Markets, and have taught in other yoga retreats around Thailand from time to time. Yoga and meditation is helpful for everyone, but it’s just the tip of the iceberg. It’s really all about living life in a healthy and positive way. How has yoga affected your health and your worldview? Before I started practicing yoga and meditation I had many negative lifestyle habits. I decided to convert to eating vegetarian food at the age of 19, but I drank a lot of alcohol, smoked cigarettes when I drank, and didn’t really care much about taking care of myself. The discipline of committing to a daily spiritual practice saves you from yourself.
bangkok101.com
While I love the community aspect of group yoga and meditation classes, I believe it is very helpful for each of us to spend a little time alone each day sitting quietly, challenging ourselves, and breathing. It’s about letting go of the things which are not serving us positively. I still like to party sometimes, but I like it less and less the older I get. Practicing yoga has changed me for the better. I’m a more peaceful, positive, open-hearted, understanding and compassionate version of myself. Most importantly, I believe I’m exactly where I should be in life, and I’m committed to sharing the contentment I’ve found with others. Not everyone is content. Many people imagine life will be better in the future, so they’re always trying to get somewhere else. For these people I suggest yoga and meditation as a way of rediscovering the present moment. You sometimes hold classes called ‘Yoga For Guys’. Has that proved popular? The ‘Yoga For Guys’ classes have been a lot of fun when we’ve done them. To be honest we haven’t done that many. There are many guys who’ve done yoga with me and seemed to really enjoy it. They’ve told me they’re committed to learning and want to come to class again soon, but then I don’t see them for a year (laughs). Bangkok is a tough city to be in if
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CITY PULSE | best of bkk You’ve mastered many impressive poses. Which are the most physically challenging? It’s about the practice overall, not any one pose. I guess the most physically challenging poses for me are handstands. They’re a lot of fun, but I’m in no rush to achieve anything. If we’re too focused on what we’re trying to achieve we’re not really paying attention to what’s happening now. What’s more important than what’s happening to my body is what’s happening in my mind as I practice. When you learn to hold your attention at the third eye and concentrate on consciousness, an experience of pure peace and pure bliss is felt. This is what yoga is really all about—inner peace. At the same time, it’s a lot of fun to challenge ourselves to learn tricky poses, as long as we don’t start imagining this is what it’s all about.
you want to stay focused on healthy living. What I’ve noticed having lived here for four years is that people have so many options for how to spend their time and money. This often seems to result in a bit of “option paralysis” where we really don’t know what to do at times. You also teach children sometimes. How do you adapt yoga for them? I love teaching kids yoga and have been doing it for four years now. I think it’s really important to get kids away from the screens—connecting with each other and moving their bodies. They need to learn meditation too. Kids are easy to teach because they’re already at home in the present moment, and they’re open to the idea of learning. I may theme a class on a topic such as ‘Open Your Heart’, and include games and activities which are centered around cultivating self-love, compassion, and gratitude. We don’t want children growing up in a world that doesn’t understand the importance of true connection with one another—a world which spends its entire existence interpreting reality through a screen. Honestly I’m scared about the way the world is now. That’s why I try to focus most of my energy on mindful, healthy, and positive living. My computer broke down four months ago and I chose not to fix it. I still use my phone more than I need to, but putting it on “airplane mode” from time to time throughout the day is a really powerful way of getting back to the real world.
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Pollution in Bangkok makes it not exactly the healthiest city in the world. Why do you choose to stay here? That’s a good question. I guess it’s because I feel more at home here than anywhere else, and I feel as though there is more for me to experience here. I don’t know if I’ll be here forever. I miss nature sometimes, but I like the communities I’m a part of now. I love Thai people, Thai culture, and the energy of this crazy city. Bangkok is a city where it feels like making all your dreams come true is possible. I’ve travelled in over 35 different countries and Thailand still feels the best to me overall. What are some of your favourite places in Bangkok for healthy eating? Nadimos, Isao, El Diablo’s, May Veggie Home, Ethos, Himalaya, and May Kaidee’s. For vegetarian food I like the EmQuartier and Terminal 21 food courts, and the W-District. I really like cooking at home too. Last question, how many tattoos do you have? I don’t know how many tattoos I have because the tattoos on my legs and arms are kind of blending together. But I’ve got a lot. I got my first tattoo at the age of 18. Most of my tattoos have special meanings related to spirituality or health and wellness, but I don’t expect the meaning of all the tattoos to stay relevant. To me tattoos are stamps in time, and when I look on my skin I may be reminded of a time and place in the past. I carry my artwork on my body because it’s the only thing that will be with me all the way through life. Instagram: Nathaniel.simha Facebook: Nathaniel Simha
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best of bkk | CITY PULSE
Sweat in the City
A guide to Bangkok’s best secret training and workout spots By Craig Sauers
A
n appropriate axiom for life in Bangkok might read something like this: the same qualities that make the city such a wonderful place to live can also make it a really brutal place to live. The perpetually tropical weather, the curious urban planning (or lack of), motorbike taxis, mobile vendors, the fluid and often poetic brand of chaos that shapes the very infrastructure of society—all can be great or head-scratching, as stimulating as a spring breeze or a migraine. That same rule would also apply to exercising. Without many green spaces or safe pathways, runners and cyclists have seemingly few good places to keep fit. While gyms offer relief from the elements, they come with hefty price tags, not to mention classes are often limited, or they come at additional costs to membership. And even though most condos have pools, they’re usually little more than glorified bathtubs. Yet Bangkok, as ever, has a yin to balance this yang. There are some pretty cool places to sweat it out in the city—you just have to know where to look. So step away from the treadmill, cast your gym pass aside, and check out these unique places and ways to work out. SERVE, SET, SPIKE
Beach volleyball and Bangkok may sound like an odd match, but, lo and behold, it exists here. And the group behind it, the Bangkok Beach Volleyball Social Group, is quite healthy. “We started this group many years back, when the only court available was a sand court,” admits Sirikanya ‘Fia’ Supasavasdebhandu, one organizer of the group’s meetups, alongside her partner, Saran Phichitsingh. “There were other courts across the city. For example, at universities like Chulalongkorn or in public parks. But public courts had “regular” players, and if you weren’t a student, an alum, or faculty, the only way to get on a university’s court was to be personally invited. Beginners had almost no chance to join, and it was impossible to find pick-up games.” Now, however, the dynamic has changed. The group arranges indoor matches nearly every day, including Tuesday night sand volleyball sessions at the Arsenal Soccer School (Sukhumvit Soi 71), and popular Sundays sessions with five-plus hours of game time not out of the ordinary. “We have a very big group with a lot of expats: parents, UN officers, international students,” says Fia. “Some days, easily up to 30 players join our rosters to play.” Beach (or sand) volleyball requires a different skillset than indoor volleyball. For starters, the court is smaller bangkok101.com
and teams normally feature just two players per side. But it’s also played outdoors, typically under floodlights, which makes the games feel a little more laidback. While Thai society has a well-documented passion for indoor volleyball, sand volleyball remains under-the-radar for locals in Bangkok. Fia, however, is seeing more interest among local crowds, too. She’s organized two volleyball tournaments so far, and a third tournament is in the works. Those interested in joining the tourney or joining the club can e-mail Fia at s.sirikanya119@gmail.com, or check out www.meetup.com/bkk-beach-volleyball. INDOOR CLIMBING Rock climbing may not be the first activity that comes to mind when thinking of ways to stay active in Bangkok, but there are a handful of great indoor facilities within the city limits, including one offering a brand-new experience. Urban Playground is one of the most accessible of the bunch (located at the Racquet Club in Phrom Phong), and has a full range of climbing options, catering to first-timers and fitness freaks alike. The centre boasts a hard-tofathom 10,000 handholds, which in laymen’s terms means the staff can set a bunch of different climbing routes from week to week. On any given day, you can climb more than 70 unique routes, and 40 bouldering problems. Odds are your arms will tire out before you complete even half of them. If you’re getting really serious about the sport, you can sign up for lead climbing courses and training programmes too. While Urban Playground arguably offers the best climbing facilities in Bangkok, it isn’t the only world-class climbing experience in town. The first Clip ‘n Climb in Thailand has arrived at Bounce, the trampolining centres J U N E 2017 | 19
CITY PULSE | best of bkk in EmQuartier and The Street Ratchada. Occupying the socalled “fun-climbing” sector of the industry, Clip ‘n Climb hails from New Zealand, where it has quickly become a popular all-ages activity.
ALL-IN-ONE STADIUMS Long-distance running and multisport events—such as triathlons and duathlons—are on the rise in Thailand. According to MV Vision, a sporting event organizer, there are more than 600 running events and 100 cycling or multisport events each year. Which is, you know, a lot! Even if marathons and triathlons are surging in popularity, finding a good place to train for them in the big city can still be something akin to a nightmare. Road safety standards are more or less non-existent, and foot traffic often becomes cheek-by-jowl in popular parks. Fortunately for our multisport friends, this metropolis has a couple of hidden gems.
“It’s really convenient to train at the Sports Authority of Thailand (SAT),” says Ivan Vlasenko (pictured above), an elite triathlete living in Bangkok, who regularly places on the podium at major events and is sponsored by Optima Bike and REVV Energy. “There’s a velodrome for cycling, a 50-metre pool for swimming, and a 400-metre track for running—all in one place.”
Seriously... even young kids, from the age of five on up, can safely climb the interactive walls, thanks to an auto-belay system that takes in slack as you climb and gently lowers you back to the ground. The centre has 24 brightly-coloured themed walls, each requiring different skills to conquer, so there’s a lot to explore. Not a bad way to get the whole family out of the house—and away from smartphones—on the weekend. www.urbanplaygroundclimbing.com www.bounceinc.co.th 20 | J U N E 2017
Located on Ramkhamhaeng Road, a little further on from the university of the same name, the SAT is probably best known as the home to Rajamangala Stadium, where big football matches and rock concerts often take place (Coldplay and Lady Gaga have both performed here). But, as Vlasenko notes, it’s an athlete’s playground. Beyond bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE the facilities mentioned above, the SAT has basketball and tennis courts, an archery centre, sports dormitories, and even a skate park. “As a triathlete, I have to do a lot of brick training (running immediately after biking). At the SAT, after the bike portion, I can drop my bike and run on the track,” says Vlasenko, noting that the SAT is basically a one-stop shop for endurance athletes. “With a busy training schedule, I wouldn’t like to spend much time commuting to faraway places to exercise.” Plus, he adds, the velodrome and track are free of charge, while entry to the pool will set you back just 50 baht.
If Ramkhamhaeng is too far from home, try National Stadium. Right on the footsteps of the BTS, this downtown sporting complex features two 400-metre tracks, a 200-metre track, a nearly two-kilometre cycling lane, and a 50-metre pool. The outdoor track, inside Thephasadin Stadium, a popular venue for football matches, is open to the public in the mornings and at night. If you’re lucky, the track inside bowl-shaped Supachalasai Stadium will be open and you can live out any Chariots of Fire-type fantasies you may have. The Wisutamol Pool, meanwhile, might not be the cleanest around, and most afternoons, when a deluge of children descend upon the water for swimming lessons, you can expect to split lanes. But it’s not very often your everyday athlete can paddle in a 50-metre pool alongside the most elite swimmers in Thailand, as you can here and at the Sports Authority of Thailand. area.sat.or.th A MOST INTERSTING PARK Visit the sprawling, shady, ostensibly peaceful park next to Wat Don any evening and you’re likely to find groups of men playing basketball, kids decked out in karategi on their way to karate class, and dozens of joggers tracing a 1.4 km loop on a concrete path. You’ll also spot some skateboarders, weightlifters, and elderly Thai-Chinese singing karaoke, from Thai oldies to John Denver’s seminal and seemingly ubiquitous hit “Take Me Home, Country Roads”. While this all makes for normal nightly activities in just about any park (…in Thailand, that is), it doesn’t take long to realize that this is no ordinary green space. bangkok101.com
Visible even from the park entrance are hundreds of tombs, elevated above ground—according to Chinese traditions—and an eerie reminder of the land’s actual purpose, as the park is an extension of the sizable Teochew Cemetery, a 117-year-old graveyard with a ghoulish history. Sound spooky? It can be, definitely after the sun sets and the graves start to bask in the luminous glow of red electric bulbs strung up in the cemetery’s shrines. But the running path here is one of the city’s most shaded, serene, and secluded, even though the park is only a couple hundred metres from busy Sathorn Road. And, come on, it’s a cemetery. How weird is that? Locals know the grounds as Pa Cha Wat Don—the graveyards of Wat Don. In 1900, the land was turned into a burial site for Chinese immigrants by the Teochew Association of Thailand. During the iron-fisted rule of Field Marshal Sarit Thanarat in the late 1950s, the coup-maker used the cemetery as grounds for summary executions. And, in the decades that followed, it received even more notoriety as it became a popular place for suicides. So it acquired what’s safe to call a “reputation”. For years, taxi drivers would often refuse to go near it. Some even reported picking up paranormal passengers when driving through the neighbourhood.
However, in 1996, three local foundations—Poh Teck Tung, Tae Chew, and Hai Nan Dan—gave it a makeover, renovating the grounds to incorporate a park. Now it comes to life every night, when schools let out and the work day is done, but the foot traffic never quite gets as pigsty-packed here as it does in Lumphini Park. Since burials are no longer allowed in the city limits, it’s pretty much full at this point, too, terrestrially speaking, so you don’t have to fear falling into a hole in the ground or running into some creepy gravedigger working overtime. NOTE: To reach Wat Don Cemetery, take the BTS to Surasak station. When you get off the train, walk to the Sathorn-Charoen Rat intersection and turn left. Follow Charoen Rat Soi 1 (past Jam! Café) to Wat Prok 1 Alley, where the road veers to the left. Turn right onto Yen Chit Alley shortly thereafter and follow the road about 100 metres. The park will be on your left. J U N E 2017 | 21
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Conscientious Consumer On the hunt for organic produce and healthy eateries By Samantha Proyrungtong & Bruce Scott
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illennials are responsible for audaciously putting up a mirror to everyone else’s deviously, hedonistic ways. Be it, smoking, drinking, eating meat, late nights and not-doing-yoga. We look on enviously at those youngsters discovering new-found svelte figures and wholesomeness at the bottom of a smoothie bowl or an organic salad. The question however is… where do they find this stuff?! Where does this supposed born-again, washboard abs, well-balanced, health freak begin his or her journey to a more fulfilling life of healthy perfection? And of all places, how do they manage it in a city like Bangkok—hardly a place that conjures up images of a squeaky clean existence? But dig deep and ye shall find. Here then are five suitable sustenance suggestions, all within easy reach of public transport, which can help open our eyes—and stomachs—to a righteous new
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world of well-being. Ultimately, there’s really no excuse not to seek out topquality, healthy food in BKK. SUSTAINA ORGANIC Since 2011, Sustaina Organic Restaurant (2F, 1/40 Sukhumvit Soi 39) has established itself as one of the better-known, and best-loved, healthy food outlets for both the Japanese and Thais working and living in the Phrom Phong/Thonglor area. Upon entering, on the ground floor, customers will encounter a small, minimalistic organic grocery area, while up on the 2nd floor diners will find a healthy, Thai-Japanese fusion restaurant with a menu void of red meat, MSG, dairy, and white sugar. The restaurant also proclaims to use produce mostly from Harmony Life Organic Farm, and seafood caught in the wild. Unfortunately, the range of organic produce in
their grocery is fairly modest, and indeed the prices are high, but unlike many other “organic” markets or grocers, Sustaina is meticulously clean and well-organized. And in terms of convenience, it’s a mere stone’s throw away from the Phrom Phong BTS station on Sukhumvit Road. www.facebook.com/ sustainaorganicrestaurant INGREENDIENT The new kids on the block, Ingreendient (44/1, Sukhumvit Soi 71) is a grocery shop and healthy café located in the very up-and-coming Phra Khanong area. They have taken a trendy approach to the health food store concept by offering a selection of low carb and sugar-free treats, served in eco-friendly packaging, along with offering visitors a dine-in vegan meal option, including fresh fruit juices and soy lattes at reasonable prices.
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best of bkk | CITY PULSE
Ingreendient
Lemon Farm
Farmers Markets
They carry a limited selection of fresh groceries and seasonal vegetables, provided by a local farm, so you know it’s always going to be super fresh. Typically, you will find green oak, red oak, potatoes, carrots, and cherry tomatoes, as well as ginger and many other Thai herbs. Then there are Ingreendient’s pickled, dried, and raw products available on the shelves (all allergen-free), which can be used to brighten up a meal, or eaten as an on-the-go snack. Im short, it’s ideal for the modern, clean eating, inner-city dweller. www.facebook.com/pg/ingreendient
ROYAL PROJECT SHOP
Rd), during the second weekend of the month (overlapping with the K Village market).
LEMON FARM Now if you are looking for a traditional organic grocery store, Lemon Farm (whose flagship store is at 169 Pradit Manutham Road, Lat Phrao) have long been servicing the city’s clean eaters with fresh organic fruits and vegetables, including a large selection of mushrooms, organic lettuces, and even homemade nam prik jay. They have five branches all over Bangkok with their most recent going under the instructive moniker Be Organic by Lemon Farm (31, The Portico, Langsuan Rd). this newest outlet also incorporates a restaurant, with a menu consisting of tofu salads, Thai style spaghetti, pumpkin soup, and vegetable stir fries with brown rice—and nothing too extraordinary or exorbitant. Lemon Farm’s longstanding position in the health food market makes them an institution in this town, and probably your best place to start if you’re keen to cook at home, and/ or make your own salads. www.lemonfarm.com bangkok101.com
Despite the somewhat misleading name, one of the most famous healthy grocers in the city would have to be the Royal Project Coffee Shop located at Or Tor Kor Market (1 Kamphaengphet Rd). The Royal Project Foundation was initiated by the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej as a project to improve the lives of the Northern hill tribe people of Thailand. This was accomplished by eradicating the opium trade, and its ill effects on the communities, by endowing the local populations with the skills and knowledge to become self-sustainable farming communities. Nowadays these highland peoples grow a plethora of fruits and vegetables, and their local coffee has become famous both at home and abroad (hence the coffee shop, which is now a major part of the Royal Project’s organic supermarket). If you’re new to the city, this is the agricultural product market most expats swear by. And given that it’s just across from Bangkok’s largest outdoor shopping bazaar, Chatuchak Market, you may as well make a day of it. FARMERS MARKETS The most obvious resource for organic grocers would be the local Farmers Markets which take place on a fairly regular basis. Of the two most well-known, the Thailand Farmers Market appears at K Village (Sukhumvit Soi 26) every second weekend of the month. The other, the Bangkok Farmers Market, springs to life outside the Gateway Shopping Center in Ekkamai (976/9 Sukhumvit
GOURMET MARKET Visitors to downtown Bangkok shopping malls such as Siam Paragon, Emporium, EmQuartier, K Village, and Terminal 21 will no doubt be familiar with Gourmet Market, a world-class supermarket brand and home to high quality food and produce from all over the globe. It’s a great place to shop for everything from local and imported seasonal fruits and vegetables, to cheese and charcuterie imported from Europe, choice meats from countries such as Japan, Australia, New Zealand, and the USA, and organic products and designed for specialty diets. It’s also a great place to stock up on top-end wines, fresh seafood,
BEYOND THE BTS If it’s the larger or more unique health stores you seek, they exist, but are pretty much only accessible for those blessed (or cursed) with motor vehicles. The list includes Bai Miang Healthy Shop on Thakham Rd. (Rama 2, Bang Khun Thian), and The Organique on Sathupradit Rd. Or, if you’ve just finished two bouts of yoga class, and need to rest those weary bones, shop online at www.sunshinemarket.co.th. They have an extensive range of health food goodies which can be delivered right to your door.
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CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Produce and meats on display at Gourmet Market and locally produced Thai products. In all there are nine Gourmet Markets in Bangkok—other locations include The Crystal SB Ratchapruek, The Mall Bangkae, The Mall Bangkapi, and The Promenade—giving Bangkok residents plenty of options of where to shop. However, a select few outlets—namely the Emporium, EmQuartier, Siam Paragon, The Mall Bangkapi, and The Mall Bangkae branches—also offer a new threechoice dining concept called the ‘Dine-in Experience’, where diners can select their own ingredients and get their meal cooked on the spot. At You Hunt We Cook diners can select the meat they like and the chef will create a special menu (you also get a chance to talk with the chef while your meal is being prepared). Meanwhile, at The Dock Oyster & Seafood Bar you can dine on fresh oyster and other seafood, as well as pasta, and at the Sushi Bar high quality, fresh sushi and sashimi, imported from Japan, is on offer. In addition, there are other customized items available at each branch, such as vacation platter, seafood platter, charcuterie and cheese platter, oyster platter, as well as Gift & Wrap. www.gourmetmarketthailand.com TOPS SUPERMARKET With a mission to be the best and most successful supermarket operator in Thailand, Central Food Retail Company Limited (CFR) operates 210 grocery locations in six different formats. Bangkok shoppers might be most familiar with the iconic Tops Supermarket—which has branches throughout the Kingdom—but CFR 24 | J U N E 2017
also encompasses Tops Superstore, Tops Daily, Superkoom, Central Food Hall, and Eathai. The company also operates Central Wine Cellar and Segafredo Zanetti Espresso, distributes brand items from UK supermarket Waitrose at most outlets, and in 2015 their joint venture with Japan’s No.1 health and beauty store led to the opening of four Matsumoto Kiyoshi stores. It’s already a lot of inventory to handle, but the company goes that extra step by sourcing only the freshest local and international products, and these products are guaranteed with credentials such as the Food Safety Excellence Award and GAP Certification, both awarded by the Ministry of Public Health. These certifications reflect the company’s dedication in guaranteeing customers the highest quality products and services when they shop at Central
Food Hall and Tops. In addition, Tops contributes to a sustainable economy by aiming to provide income for many local farmers. However, fresh produce, organic products, meat and seafood, ready-to-eat meals, fine wine, and assorted health and beauty products, are not all Tops offers. Customers can also conveniently order online or by phone, and home delivery is available for purchases of B1,500 or more. They also offer ‘Personal Shopper’ service (if you don’t have the time yourself), as well as a ‘Consultant Chef’ if you need cooking advice and/or suggestions (available at the Central Food Hall, CentralWorld, and Central Chidlom locations only).
LEADING THE VEGGIE VANGUARD After opening their first branch on Sukhumvit Road almost two years ago, Broccoli Revolution has now expanded and opened a second location on the 6th floor ‘Open House’ area at Central Embassy (1031 Ploenchit Rd), spreading their philosophy of a balanced lifestyle— starting with more vegetables. Expect all the best-selling items from the Sukhumvit location, but also take note of menu newcomers such as the healthy gluten free artichoke lasagna, the protein-packed Portobello steak, and the vegan Isaan platter. Or, just indulge in some fresh organic cold-pressed juice, vegan smoothies, homemade ice-cream, and vegan desserts. The new location is open daily from 10am to 10pm. www.facebook.com/broccolirevolution
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best of bkk | CITY PULSE
Kids Just Wanna Have Fun Fun programs for kids that promote healthy bodies and minds By Helen Highwater
RHYTHMIC GYMNASTICS: Described as a blend of ballet, gymnastics, dance, and apparatus manipulation (club, hoop, ball, ribbon and rope), this sport has a little bit of everything and is about as close as you can get to structured goofing off. Universe Gymnastics, led by Russian pro Olga Balachina, started in Phuket but began Bangkok classes last year (trial classes are just B300). In February they expanded the program to include a toddler group for kids three to six. www.universegymnastics.com MEDITATION: Health is more than just skin deep, and overall holistic wellness starts in the mind. Mindfulness for Children is based on the serene shores of Pranburi, in Prachuap Khiri Khan province, and organizes group and private meditation classes for kids (ages 7-11) and teens (12 and up) to help cultivate awareness, calmness, and kindness. Check the website for prices and schedules. www.mindfulnessforchildren.org SUMMER CAMP: Outdoor play is key in nurturing a child’s individual strengths. Schools with environmental education programs score higher on standardized tests in math, reading, writing, and listening, and it is good for the spirit too—stress levels fall within minutes of kids seeing green spaces, and studies show that immersion in nature actually makes children more caring and generous. “Kids thrive in the great outdoors,” says Merritt Gurley, director of Thailand Summer Camps, a sleepaway adventure camp for kids 7-16, set in the lush forests of Khao Yai. “There’s something special about being surrounded by trees, the calm and quiet that comes from observing nature. And as parents we have to find ways to give our kids a break from their electronic devices.” Noticing a lack of environmental education options for kids in Bangkok, Merritt teamed up with the experts at the Wild Planet—an activities provider who has worked with international schools on field trips and excursions for more than 20 years—to launch a summer camp at Wild Lodge, the organization’s picturesque eco-adventure center. The location is just a three-hour drive from Bangkok, but the lush setting feels worlds away from the bustle of the city. The four-acre property includes cozy cabins, campsite, salt-water infinity pool, reading sala, and dining area. The camps run from Monday to Friday,
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BASKETBALL: Coax out your kids’ inner Michael Jordan or Kobe Bryant with classes for kids at Top Flight. Children aged 3-15 can attend the weekend workshops, with programs aimed at understanding the game and enhancing fundamental basketball skills. Kids learn the value of teamwork and sportsmanship while having a “ball”. Saturday classes start from B6,000 for 10 sessions, and Sunday classes from B7,200 for 12 sessions. academy.topflightbangkok.com PARKOUR: Walking the walk has never looked so cool. Parkour is a training discipline that turns every-day life into a fun-to-navigate obstacle course, and improves overall fitness using bodyweight resistance and running, climbing, swinging, vaulting, and rolling. Asia Parkour’s ‘Ninja Kids’ program teaches children 6-15 that jumping around is a sport that can rev up those motor skills. Prices for drop-in classes are just B550. www.asiaparkour.com
offering activities centered on outdoor play, such as archery, cycling, rock-climbing, zip-lining, hiking, swimming, canoeing, and whitewater rafting. Campers will build confidence and independence while learning how to navigate the jungle, preserve the environment, and work in teams. There’s even an aerial course for the more intrepid campers, complete with a highropes, timber platforms, and a climbing wall, designed to promote courage and social cooperation. The dates, which coincide with school holidays, are: June 26-30; July 3-7; and July 31-August 4. The price is B21,000 per child (all-inclusive), and families sending siblings receive a discounted rate of B19,000 per additional child (all inclusive). www.thailandsummercamps.com
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CITY PULSE | special report
The Science of Sleep Medical research helps patients get a good night’s rest By Robin Westley Martin
B
ack in 1789, Benjamin Franklin famously wrote: “There are only two things that are certain, death and taxes”. Another item that could be added to that list is our need for sleep. We cannot live without it, and lack of it—or problems during it—can cause or contribute to a wide range of medical problems. In the USA—where the most up-to-date statistics are available—public health and safety is threatened by the rising prevalence of Obstructive Sleep Apnoea (OSA) and other sleep disorders. According to the American Academy of Sleep Medicine, it is now estimated that approximately 26 percent of the US population suffers from OSA or other sleep-related problems. In Thailand, Dr. Jakrin Loplumlert (right) is the country’s top expert in the field of sleep science, and he says that the trend in Thailand is following that seen in the USA. He studied in Thailand at both Mahidol and Chula Universities’ medical faculties, and went on to further study in Cleveland, Ohio, where he left with a Research/Sleep Medicine Fellowship/Observership from the University Hospitals Case Medical Centre, in 2014. He then returned to Thailand, and has since then led the sleep science team in the Neuroscience Centre at Bangkok Hospital. According to Dr. Jakrin there are a number of common sleep problems—such as sleep related breathing disorders, snoring, insomnia, inadequate sleep, narcolepsy, sleepwalking, etc.—of which the most commonly occurring is Obstructive Sleep Apnoea. “OSA is found more within the male population,” he noted, “showing clinical manifestations such as snoring, waking up to go to the toilet, waking up gasping, waking up unrefreshed, morning headaches, daytime confusion, memory problems, or Excessive Day Time Sleepiness (EDTS).” He went on to explain that OSA sufferers often exhibit a variety of more extreme medical problems as a result of their condition. It can cause or contribute to hypertension, coronary artery disease, cardiac arrhythmia, stroke, kidney disease, diabetes, or mood disorders such as depression or irritability, to name the most common ailments. To put it frankly, it’s a serious problem for the public health of a country, and urgently needs the help of experts such as Dr Jakrin. 26 | J U N E 2017
Patients (Thai and foreign) from other hospitals in Thailand—and even other countries—are referred to Dr. Jakrin at Bangkok Hospital, and there the process begins. They first have a physical examination, followed by an overnight stay (with an optimum 8 hours of sleep time). Here, in a well-equipped hospital suite, a technician views them throughout the night by CCTV, continuously monitoring brain activity, heart rate, digestive system, et al. After exhaustive analysis of the data, the proper treatment is decided upon. Treatment options include: supplying the patient with an oral appliance; drug treatment with melatonin or a medicine with a similar effect; Ear, Nose, or Throat (ENT) surgery; or Continuous Positive Airway Pressure (CPAP) treatment, which is recommended in 90 percent of the cases. The latter is a procedure that utilizes a CPAP machine to provide mild air pressure to keep breathing passages open. It features a disposable full-face or nasal mask that fits over the face during sleep (some patients find the full-face mask a little too claustrophobic and opt for the smaller nasal mask). For the treatment to work, the CPAP machine should be used every time a patient sleeps at home, as well as while traveling, or during naps. Getting used to using a CPAP machine can take time and requires patience. The doctor may need to adjust the pressure settings for a particular patient, and he or she will have to work closely with the sleep doctor to find the most comfortable mask that works best for them. Some patients notice immediate improvements after starting CPAP treatment, such as better sleep quality, reduction or elimination of snoring, and less daytime sleepiness. But equally important are the long-term benefits that cannot immediately be recognized, such as helping to prevent or control high blood pressure, lowering the risk of stroke, and improvement of memory and other cognitive functions. The majority of patients quickly become used to using a CPAP machine and mask, and the success rate in curing OSA and its related medical problems is high. If you suffer from snoring or other sleeping disorders it might be a good idea to make an appointment to see your doctor. And if you are here in Thailand you might soon find yourself making the acquaintance of the amenable Dr. Jakrin Loplumlert. Till then…sweet dreams! bangkok101.com
CITY PULSE | made in thailand
Health(y) Nut
Superstar chef James Noble seeks solace in sustainability By Gary Anthony Rutland
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hef James Noble is a 47 year-old larger-than-life, ball of manic energy. It’s 10am, the heat’s been serious for a while, and I’m having a coronary just watching him assault the red clay with his ancient hoe as he demonstrates the physical effort entailed in his passion. “I have to get this row of sunflowers in today,’ he pants. And smiles. A picture of health and wellness, Noble has enjoyed an illustrious career. He’s not only worked in Michelinstarred restaurants, but has also been a chef to the stars (Mick Jagger’s personal chef for four years, but that’s not important right now), a Thai TV celebrity chef, as well as a restaurateur and hotelier (most recently with the Alennta Hua Hin Resort and Spa, although they parted ways back in 2015). These days, however, he’s primarily a zealous organic farmer. As such, you’d expect him to have some advice on how to eat healthily and live well and, as it turns out, he does—quite a lot actually. James is a man on a mission, and Bangkok hotels like the Radisson Blu and the Grand Hyatt Erawan, along with a growing list of the city’s most celebrated restaurants— which currently includes Surface, Gaa, Canvas, J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain, Indus, Gaggan, Sühring, and Freebird—can’t get enough of his locally grown produce.
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It’s a selection of organic edibles that features all the obvious choices, as well as less obvious ones such as edible flowers and an entire range of exotic pickles. Quince restaurant actually has its own dedicated greenhouse (one of four, which the chef refers to as “tunnels”) on Noble’s two rai organic farm, which is located a stone’s throw from the coast in idyllic Pak Nam Pran, in Thailand’s Prachuap Khiri Khan province. Quince instructs him as to what they want grown—and when— which dovetails perfectly with his organic ethos. Investing in the future and sustainability are two of the keys to James’ credo. His farm is boutique in name, size, and produce, and obviously uses no GMO products. James and his wife May—along with some locals—sow, grow, and harvest everything by hand. No machinery is used and the water system is solar powered. Their mission includes reducing their carbon footprint by supplying locally grown “imported products”, and providing fresh, healthy produce at affordable prices. The aim is to improve the health and wellness of both people and planet. “Why import something when you can grow it yourself?” asks James rhetorically. This stance against importation involves reaching out to people and finding out what they specifically want, and growing it for them—whether “they” are hotels, bangkok101.com
made in thailand | CITY PULSE restaurants, chefs, or just people who’ve heard the word and want to eat more healthily. A good example of this reaching out is the stage-four cancer sufferer at whose request James is specifically growing Hong Kong kale, dandelions, purple flowering garlic, and mulberries. Back on the farm, the need for pesticides is avoided in part by growing lemongrass, another example of the farm’s over-riding sustainability culture. It’s not only a popular and important ingredient in many famous Thai dishes, it also keeps all the bugs away. “We work in the field from 6 until 10am, and then from 4 to 7pm, before the cobras and all the other wildlife come out looking for water,” James says with a mischevious grin. “And Wednesday through Friday we deliver in and around Bangkok.”
deployed in mainstream agriculture across the world. The 2nd highest cause of death in Thailand is diabetes, and one of the keys to health and wellness is a varied and balanced diet. On this, James’ advice is simple: “Don’t let your body get used to any one food or food-type or group. Check your blood type and try a blood-group diet. Ask yourself ‘What do I need?’ and ‘How much do I need?’ In short, live simply and humbly.” The visible proof of James’ successful recipe for health and wellness is best encapsulated in his effervescent, precociously intelligent 3-year-old daughter Nancy, a tallfor-her-age bundle of energy and inquisitiveness. Up and out working (and playing, she is just 3 after all) in the fields at dawn with the rest of the family, she’s already put in a few hours of healthy activity before heading off to school.
He goes on to explain about his ‘Guerilla Gardening’ initiative. Once every three months, he and a group of like-minded health and wellness nuts get “blacked up”, don balaclavas and—sometime after midnight—head out into the streets of Bangkok to randomly plant seeds in public places. “Food for the future” he adds with another mischevious grin. Those interested in participating can find details by checking the Boutique Farmers website, and all participants receive a Boutique Farmers t-shirt, that proudly displays the logo and slogan that brings yet another sardonic smile to James’ face: “Putting the F back in chef”. The farm also offers what James calls a “rewarding vacation”. Clients are welcome to visit, stay for a day or two, and take part in the running of the farm. For city dwellers in particular it’s a chance to breathe fresh air, eat healthy food and, after a hard day’s physical graft, get a really good night’s sleep. Addressing the bigger picture, I asked James about the overall organic situation and sustainability movement in Thailand. “Essentially it’s non-existent,” he remarks. “There’s no soil association anywhere in Asia, so nothing can technically be termed “organic”. Of course, a lot is organic in principal and practice, but it’s not regulated in any way, so who really knows? But if you grow it yourself, obviously you know, and at the very least you’re taking back control of what you eat.” As the obesity epidemic spreads across the globe, and healthy eating options seem harder than ever to find, elements of the organic philosophy are starting to be
While everyone can’t live on an organic farm with all the health benefits that such a life provides, there are still many ways to give your green thumb a workout. Thailand’s wonderful climate is just the thing for rooftop gardens—another of James’ many pet projects—and are an excellent way for city residents to reap the benefits of gardening (which is beneficial to both one’s physical and mental health). So… what are you waiting for? Why not start your own garden, you’ll soon be reaping the rewards of what you’ve sown.
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FUTURE PROJECTS: Chef James Noble’s farm, located about a 45-minute drive south of Hua Hin, is open to the public every Saturday (overnight stays are by appointment only). On July 29th an on-site restaurant will be launched, open Saturdays only and restricted to 30 people max. To celebrate the opening, a number of Bangkok’s top chefs will join James to cook and camp, with each chef preparing a special dish. Tickets for this event are B500 each (see website for details). Work is also underway on a ‘sustainable living’ hotel—the 56 room Modeena—situated on the balmy beachfront less than a minute’s drive from Pak Nam Pran. It’s a project he hopes to bring to fruition in early 2018. www.theboutiquefarmers.com
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CITY PULSE | out & about
Vitality Vacations
Travel Thailand by checking out these 10 renowned wellness retreats By Bruce Scott
PHUKET: The island of Phuket is a great place to relax and unwind, but health-holidays have become a booming business here as of late. The internationally acclaimed Thanyapura Health & Sports Resort is perhaps one of the island’s most unique properties, with a primary focus on fitness and sports training—for some at an Olympic level. In fact, athletes of all sorts use the state-of-the-art facilities here to train and prepare for global sporting events. So join the international swim teams doing laps in the 50-metre and 25-metre Olympic pools, improve your backhand at the indoor and outdoor tennis courts, work out indoors using the 900 sq.m of gym facilities, or get your “kicks” in the Muay Thai training ring or the FIFA standard football pitch. And all the while you’ll have the hotel’s team of expertly
Atmanjai Detox & Wellness Centre retreat offers guests a healthy stay at a spectacular oceanfront location—right on Chalong Bay. The center is a friendly, relaxing environment where guests can participate in safe, proven, effective programs that improve health, vitality, and happiness. Clients have the choice to stay either at The Friendship Beach Resort onsite, or at Atmanjai’s luxury sister hotel the Serenity Resort & Residences (just a 5-minute walk along the beach). Choose a Deluxe Room or the Luxury Serenity Suite, or opt for a shared dormitory-style room which features two single beds—ideal for those looking to meet new people while at the same time reducing the cost of their trip. Guests also have access to the swimming pool, fitness centre, and watersports equipment for kitesurfing and paddle boarding. For diners, the aptly named Supernataural Restaurant is an open-air seaside eatery offering fresh juices alongside vegan, vegetarian, and raw food dishes. www.atmanjai.com
Thanyapura Sports Hotel qualified instructors and attendants at your disposal for instructions and coaching. For overnight guests the resort offers clean, comfortable, and spacious rooms, and the property itself is divided into a 77-room Pool Wing, and a newly renovated and exceedingly tranquil 37-room Garden Wing. The complex also features an award-winning healthy food restaurant, a holistic wellness center, and a clinic run by expert medical staff. www.thanyapura.com A much different magnet for health conscious travelers is the Atmanjai Detox & Wellness Centre. Billed as Phuket’s only beachfront wellness spa with private cleansing rooms, this detox, yoga, fitness, and wellness 30 | J U N E 2017
Amatara Wellness Resort Another premiere Phuket property is the Amatara Wellness Resort, which offers guests a 5-star luxury, bespoke experience against the gorgeous natural backdrop bangkok101.com
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DRIVING DISTANCE HUA HIN: When it first opened in 1996, the ChivaSom luxury health resort was the epitome of first-class wellness treatment in Thailand. Now, over 20 years on, it retains that title and goes even further, offering guests a staggering array of holistic treatments, lifestyle programs, medical services, healing massages, and fitness regimes. The atmosphere at this prestigious property is a mix of friendly Thai aesthetics and high-end, clinical-grade facilities. The outdoor Yoga Pavillion, for instance, is a lovely wooden deck with peaked Thai-style roof surrounded on all sides by greenery, while the indoor Water Therapy Suites (separate for men and women) are full of gleaming tiles, chrome faucets, and ultramodern steam, sauna, and Jacuzzi areas. This contrast exists elsewhere as well—the indoor Bathing Pavilion is more of a workout pool, while the expansive outdoor common area swimming pool is for pure relaxation— but these divergent elements simply contribute to an overall whole that literally takes care of ALL your wellness needs. In addition, the on-site Niranlada MediSpa complements the traditional approach with the latest developments in modern aesthetic treatments and micro-invasive cosmetic surgery (the facility is under the supervision of world-renowned cosmetic dermatologist and surgeon Dr. Niwat Polnikorn and his experienced medical team). The Chiva-Som property occupies seven acres of picturesque beachfront land, and offers 54 accommodations suites of various sizes. Most have been recently remodeled, and guests can choose between various-sized sea view suites—the 48 sq.m Ocean Deluxe Rooms are supremely comfortable—or opt for the 36 sq.m Thai Pavilion units that look out onto the garden. Either way you’ll get a sleek, elegantly designed room with all the modern facilities, including air-conditioning, flatscreen TV, Wi-Fi, mini-fridge, bedside light switch controls, and more. The price and duration depends on the room size and retreat package you choose—over a dozen are listed on the website, from detox, to yoga, to weight management—and although each package includes meals, the treatments guests receive differ, as they are customized according to your initial health consultation which guests go through upon arrival. A minimum 3-night stay is required for almost all guests, but some programs can extend to a full 14 days. As a result, you soon start to see some familiar faces during your visit. Another interesting aspect of the Chiva-Som experience is that guests are required to refrain from using cell phones and cameras in all common areas. Part of this is to assure guest privacy, but it also acts as a kind of “digital detox” where guests take a few meditative moments to step away from their smartphone screens. It was particularly interesting to see this during mealtimes. There were no foodie pics being posted on Instagram and no Facebook statuses being updated… instead people were actually talking to one another across the table!
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Speaking of meals, the food at the resort is all carefully prepared with healthy eating in mind. Portions are smaller, the use of sugar, salt, butter, and oil is limited, and no pork appears on any of the menus (for health reasons as well as Halal dietary restrictions). Guests have the option of dining at either the stately Emerald Room or the beachfront Taste of Siam restaurants, the latter of which offers fully vegetarian breakfasts and lunches. NOTE: From June 1st to October 31st, 2017, Thai residents and expats with proof of residency can take advantage of Chiva-Som’s Thai Resident Retreat. With a minimum stay of 2 nights, guests will receive special room rates, all meals, physical analysis and skin consultation, unlimited use of the Water Therapy Suites, one daily massage or body treatment, and more. www.chivasom.com
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CITY PULSE | out & about of Cape Panwa. The spacious and stunningly designed 22 pavilions and 48 suites each feature private balcony sea views, while each of the 35 pool villas offers guests a private swim area. Conceptually the overall “experience” is one of total wellness, and offers an all-inclusive program combining organic and nutritional food at The Retreat, the dedicated restaurant, along with personalized wellness exercise and leisure activities—from yoga, Pilates, and fitness, to a steam room with an infrared sauna. In addition, all Amatara programs include an unforgettable Thai Hammam Experience, which brings together traditional Turkish and Moroccan bathing practices with the wisdom and gentleness of Thai spa therapies. www.amataraphuket.com
Samahita Retreat Another Samui situated wellness centre is the Samahita Retreat, which has been a pioneer in healthy programming for body, breath, and mind for almost 15 years, and is known as one of the most authentic yoga teaching locations worldwide. This lifestyle retreat center features a variety of guest room options, four dedicated yoga salas, an indoor cycle studio at the beach, an open air fitness and sea-view loft, a detox and wellness center, a juice and coffee bar, and Sattva Dining, their celebrated buffet–style health-food restaurant. The resort is also smoke and alcohol free, which for some might be a definite added bonus. www.samahitaretreat.com
RarinJinda Wellness Spa & Onsen Resort CHIANG MAI: Thailand’s north is always a relaxing place to visit, but at the RarinJinda Wellness Spa & Onsen Resort that peace of mind is taken to the next level. Housed in a 140-year-old antique Thai teakwood home, this boutique resort offers 35 luxurious deluxe and suite rooms, in four categories, all embellished and decorated with both modern touches and stylish antiques. All rooms are also outfitted with private verandas with Doi Suthep mountain and Ping River views. The facilities include a well-equipped wellness spa, and fitness and yoga studio, as well as an outdoor swimming pool, hydrotherapy tub, whirlpool with chromotherapy, rainforest steam and sauna, and Japanese-style Onsen bath. In addition, an alternative medicine specialist and nurses are also available on the premises to provide consultation and guidance. www.rarinjinda.com KOH SAMUI: There are many venues and properties on Koh Samui offering health-minded holidays, and the best known is undoubtedly the Kamalaya, an awardwinning wellness sanctuary and holistic spa resort. Travelers looking for a life-enriching healthy holiday can take advantage of detox programs and yoga classes or, for a more personalized experience, the resort’s team of naturopaths can create custom programs utilizing holistic medicine, spa, and healing therapies. There are 54 accommodation options, ranging from hillside rooms with breathtaking views, to private pool villas near the beach. www.kamalaya.com 32 | J U N E 2017
KOH PHANGAN: Although Koh Phangan is known by many for its infamous full-moon beach parties, it’s known in other circles a ground zero for yoga retreats in Thailand—and the Ananda Wellness Resort Yoga & Detox Center leads the pack. The resort offers yoga retreat and yoga teacher training packages, as well as detox programs that assist in getting rid of harmful acids and toxins, clearing out blockages, and generally improving circulation (which benefits emotional, mental, and spiritual states). The accommodations are not über-luxury, but the bungalows, private rooms, and dorm rooms all include air conditioning. Water therapy amenities consists of a salt water swimming pool—free of all chlorinated products— and a relaxing herbal steaming sauna. In addition, the resort’s Love Kitchen has a full selection of fresh vegetarian and vegan items on offer. www.anandaresort.com
Ananda Wellness Resort Yoga & Detox Center bangkok101.com
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DRIVING DISTANCE RAYONG: A relative newcomer to the wellness holiday scene, Tree Roots Retreat (which began operations in October of 2016) has nevertheless proven itself to be both a popular spot for health and fitness buffs looking for a laid back, beach access getaway that’s not too far from Bangkok. They offer a range of fitness, conditioning, strength, and relaxation courses. The accommodations consist of nine bungalow units which look out onto a private pool and garden. The units are all nicely furnished—great linen and supremely comfortable king-size beds—with high-ceilings and a staircase leading up to a 2nd storey loft area. The rooms also have air-conditioning (or overhead fan if you prefer), en-suite bathroom, mini-fridge and coffee making facilities, Wi-Fi, and a small poolside terrace. However, the rooms do not have TVs, which may be problematic for some but if you’re serious about the “retreat” aspect, it’s a definite plus. Another bonus for true solace seekers is that children are not allowed, although pets are definitely welcome.
Alongside these cozy bungalows, Tree Roots also offers a wide spectrum of fitness facilities. At the far end of the property there’s a well-stocked gym—open 24 hours a day—with plenty of free weights, stationary cycles, and other muscle making machinery. Directly above the gym is an indoor room for hot yoga, and an outdoor terrace for regular yoga. The other main exercise area is a large open-air covered platform with a complex network of colourful Yoga Fly hammocks hanging from elevated supports.
Finally, for the last word in over-the-top health retreats, it would be hard to top The Sanctuary. The resort lives up to its name, as it’s located on a private beach and is almost inaccessible by anything other than a boat. Most guests sign up for package treatments, such as the popular 3.5 Day Detox which includes everything from Psyllium husk and bentonite clay purification “shakes” to daily organic coffee colonic flushes. The resort also offers yoga, meditation, and other healing therapies, and the accommodations range from simple dormitory beds to exotic and romantic houses inspired by traditional Thai architecture. There’s also something called Detox Accommodation, which is only available for those undertaking a detox or wellness package, as the bathrooms have been modified for colonic treatments. www.thesanctuarythailand.com. bangkok101.com
Yoga Fly is big part of the fitness program here, and a qualified aerial yoga instructor teaches every weekend. It’s a total body workout and an excellent way to strengthen your core, improve your balance, and relieve stress. Another unique training option offered here is the Crazy Monkey Defense Program, which makes use of the two boxing rings which are adjacent to the Yoga Fly area. This particular training program— described as the “yoga of martial arts”—is more about self-preservation than self-defence, where you tap into your own “warrior spirit” and better enable yourself to deal with everything from unwanted attacks to workplace conflicts. There’s also other physical regimens on offer, including Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, surfing, and stand-up paddling (the calm ocean waters of nearby Mae Ram Phueng Beach are perfect for the latter). Tree Roots is the vision of founder Aaron Le Boutillier, who believes mindfulness, movement, and meditation can best be experienced through a combination of martial arts, cardiovascular-intense exercises, and the beauty of architecture, landscaping, and design. Together with his helpful staff—including the delightful mustachioed GM Crispin J. G. PatonSmith, who makes sure every detail is taken care of—they’ve created a very cool, attitude-free spot for healthy holidays. Oh, and don’t bother bringing a book to read as Aaron, a former bookshop owner and book collector (and celebrated author), has over 40,000 on the premises. They’re literally everywhere—from the rooms, to the restaurant, to the on-site library. www.treerootsretreat.com
The Sanctuary J U N E 2017 | 33
SNAPSHOTS | insight
The mural paintings in Wat Amphawan Chetiyaram in Amphawa, Samut Songkram 34 | J U N E 2017
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insight | SNAPSHOTS
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On the Central Plains
he characteristics of central Thailand (aka. the Central Plains) don’t particularly stand out the way the distinctive Northern, Northeastern, and Southern regions do. However, they are no “Plain Janes” either. In fact, they have evolved into the standard, or classic, representation of “Thai style”. And although it is hardly the only representation of this style, Thailand’s central region can rightfully claim the title as the birthplace of Siamese civilization, and the core of Thai culture. Centuries before the Siamese capitals of Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, Thonburi, and Rattanakosin (the Bangkok period) were established, the central plains area had been a hotbed for numerous townships and kingdoms. Besides the renown ruins of the former capitals, other remnants of the formative eras of Dvaravati, Lopburi, Suvannabhumi, and even Angkor can be appreciated within the provinces of Petchabun, Phitsanuloke, and Kampaeng Petch to the north, and U-thong, Nakhon Pathom, Suphanburi, Prachinburi, and even Chonburi to the south. This entire geographical area is large and varied, ranging from Thailand’s lower Northern valleys,
Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com
to the shores along the Gulf of Siam. It extends from the verdant jungle of the Tenasserim mountain range in Kanchanaburi in the west, to the rustic coastlines of Trat in the east, next to Cambodia. As a result, this region is sometimes divided into three parts: the central basin, the west, and the east. The Eastern seaboard is where industrial estates, ports, and naval bases located in Laem Chabang and Sattahip meet the hedonistic decadence of Pattaya and the outlying resort islands. But, more importantly, these central alluvial plains are surrounded by mountainous borders which gives the essential resource to the rice paddy fields—water. Water is what holds this vast piece of land together, and it comes in all shapes and sizes—as rivers, streams, canals, lakes, waterfalls, dams, reservoirs, and the sea. The major artery of the Chao Phraya River starts in the heartland at Pak Nam Bho district, Nakhon Sawan province, where the Ping, Wang, Yom, and Nan rivers converge. Centuries ago, tall ships were able to sail up the river to Ayutthaya but the banks have since been silted. While the trade couldn’t go much further, the delta has become more and more fertile. These waterways weave through the livelihoods of the locals, via their agrarian heritage, and make the farmers’ rice fields and fruit and vegetable orchards bountiful. The vital river arteries and the wide open sea also provide an abundant food supply, and the various kinds of fish, plump river prawns, dried seafood, krill paste, and the indispensable Thai fish sauce—as well as copious other ingredients from this region—have made their mark on the Kingdom’s world-famous cuisine. Dishes such as dtom yum—which blends the flavours of sweet, sour, and salty—capture the quintessential palate of Thai cuisine. Through the eyes of the sociologist, the way the Central Plains folks live, work, and worship classifies them as “water people”. They live in bang, meaning ponds, swamps, marshlands, or havens that have
waterways flowing into a river or to the sea. These bangs have become settlements, villages, and districts, such as Bangkapi, Bangrak, Bangsaen, and even the metropolis of Bangkok. Similar to other river civilizations, towns with houses, temples, and palaces have been built along the bodies of water. Traditional Thai houses in the Central Plains style have tall columns and high basement areas (because of the floods). The roof lines peak and slope downwards so that the raindrops roll down fast while the air inside ventilates the heat upwards. These houses can also be disassembled and moved to be rebuilt somewhere new. Boats became major means of transportation and commerce, and floating markets can still be found in many communities such as in Ratchaburi, Chachoengsao, Samut Songkhram, and even around Bangkok. In yesteryears, people used to live in houseboats or house rafts so they could easily move up and downstream. Many boat song and boat racing festivals were borne out of this way of life. The ethnic diversity in this area is also more than meets the eyes. The Tai, Mon, Lao, Chinese, Indian, and many more peoples have mixed and mingled in this regional melting pot. Most would think that since no dialects are spoken, people from the Central Plains voice the standard Thai language, like in the broadcast news. However, accents abound here, including the twang of Suphanburi folk, and the drawl of Chanthaburi and Trat natives. Arguably, this amalgam of cultural and ethnic influences in the Central Plains results in the epitome of Thai style, arts, and culture. Thais are very well-known for selecting what we like and discarding what we don’t, and thus we adapt, alter, incorporate, and synthesize all the elements into a variety of refined results to suit our tastes— while keeping the authenticity. Perhaps, what can be identified and characterized as the uniqueness of the Thais of the Central Plains is their adaptability. As “water people”, our means of survival is to go with the flow. J U N E 2017 | 35
SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand
Lucky Number Nagas
Travel to Udon province to visit the portal to the serpent underworld Words and photos by Alasdair McLeod
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he sacred forest of Kham Chanote in Udon province—in Northeastern Thailand—is said to be one of three known portals to the watery underworld of the Naga Serpents, the semi-divine mythical water spirits that adorn every temple in the Kingdom as protectors of wisdom. The other two portals are to be found at the Black Stupa of Phra That Luang in Vientiane, and within a whirlpool of the Mekong River as it flows through Nong Khai province. But Kham Chanote holds special status because it leads to an underwater city of naga serpents. Being close to a naga city, it is much more likely that the nagas might choose this route when visiting the human world. The site is best described as an island covered with chanote palms. Inside the dense undergrowth is a shrine to the naga lord, and nearby is the sacred rectangular well that lore tells us leads to their underwater world. It has been hugely popular among Thais since the media popularized a series of cases
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where people won the lottery after making merit here. People travel from all across the country for a better chance at the jackpot and to fill water bottles from the mysterious well. Against all the advice I arrived at the weekend just days before the lottery numbers were announced. The sound of crisp 100 baht bills being dragged for luck along the stone naga serpent bannisters of the bridge to Kham Chanote was like scales scuttling across the rocks. The queue shuffled patiently forwards and there was the occasional acrid waft of ammonia salts that some visitors were using to mitigate the heat and crowded conditions. The branches of trees were festooned with flower streamers while the bark was mottled with patches of powder and oil where keen fingers had rubbed for patterns. Further down the trail dozens of visitors moved crab-like over the exposed roots, staring closely at the surfaces to unveil numbers and snapping pictures with their
smartphones for further study later. Eggs had been deposited in small ledges at the base of the chanote palms. Around the shrine to naga lord Sisotho-nakarat, and his wife Sripratoomatewi, a large group bowed their heads and were led in a prayer recital by the monk. Every available surface was covered in naga offerings crafted from banana leaves and flowers. Deeper into the trees there was a naga statue spouting water into a small pool where a jostling frenzy of visitors scooped the water into gourd-shaped containers. Behind this was the sacred well—the portal itself. The waters here were oily, dark and still. A few mounds of soil protruded and were studded with coins that had been thrown onto them for luck. Thais generally seem to approach life in a relaxed way—summed up in the oft-heard phrases “mai pen raiˮ and “sabai sabaiˮ—but this gentle angle on life falls apart when it comes to getting winning numbers for the national bangkok101.com
bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS lottery. Everyone is easygoing until a shot at riches is on the cards. When you mention to a local that you have noticed Thais are very easygoing until it comes to matters of the lottery, you are sure to earn a grin as they recognize themselves in the comment. While poverty and wealth often co-exist side by side here, people of all walks of life are united in aspiring to hit the jackpot. As accepting as a person is that their place in the social strata is fixed and pre-ordained, they strongly believe that it may be possible to improve their luck by making merit at proven fortuitous places. This is, in other words, the Southeast Asian dream. In these rigid, hierarchical societies the realm of things over which many citizens feel they have influence has narrowed to the sphere of lottery numbers. In this aspect they consider that their effort and input can actually make a difference. Those winning numbers might be arrived at by carefully scrutinizing the bark of a tree or be revealed in a dream. Events happening all around could present possible jackpot numbers if only they are noticed, and to those paying attention to what is good around them may come the reward. The National Lottery is viewed as speculation rather than gambling. What each individual feels they know about making merit is what they believe gives them the edge over others to beat the system and tilt the odds in their favour. Their personal petitions and prayers are their insider knowledge in game of finessing their luck. The underwater city beneath Kham Chanote is as big as human cities, say the locals, and the underwater world is at least as big as Thailand. But who (or
Bizarre
Thailand
Guest columnist Alasdair McLeod is Scottish-born but now resides in Thailand. His writings have been published in the Chiang Mai City News and Maelstrom Magazine, among others, and he has written a book of poems entitled The Ashes of the Sun. Meanwhile, his popular YouTube channel has had half a million views. www.youtube.com/user/TheNgyam bangkok101.com
what) are the naga serpents? Created to protect rivers and lakes, some are semi-divine and are therefore suitable objects of prayer. They work with the humans that respect both them and the natural world’s waterways and river systems. The gift of winning lottery numbers is a mark of respect towards deserving people, not simply in return for offerings of fruit and fish. They feel the sincere devotion from the meritmakers and worshippers, and they give back in return. There are also different representations of the naga serpents. The more heads the naga has, the more powerful it is. Most have one head, some have three heads and some have five, and a very potent type has seven heads and uses its wisdom and power to lead the other serpents. In the Buddhist tradition there is a class of great nagas with nine heads, such as King Mucalinda who sheltered the Buddha during a storm as he attained enlightenment. Lord Sisotho at Kham Chanote is also in the league of naga serpents with nine heads. Among the Buddhist origin tales is the story of a naga that took human form in order to be ordained as a monk. Reverting to serpent form while asleep, the ruse was discovered by his shocked roommate. His status as a monk was revoked but he was permitted to remain and learn from the teachings so that he could be reborn as a human. Based on this tale, the locals understand that the nagas are interested in us and our world because they want to be human. Kham Chanote famously hit the news in 1989 when it was widely reported by the big papers of the time that a group of ghosts had hired a rural cinema crew to show them a series of movies all through the night. Dressed all in white, the “ghosts” were said to have watched a wide range of films yet showed no signs of emotion during the action or comedy segments. Locals, meanwhile, were convinced that the mysterious figures were nagas intent on becoming humans in a future life. That they had managed to come through
the portal signified that their deep meditation practice and prayers had allowed them to make good progress towards their goal. During my visit I was told that many of the local people and families were probably nagas in their past lives. Speaking with some humility, they explained that it was not only by merit-making that they had become human, but also through some unaccountable luck—the kind that bubbles out from the sacred well. The hope of finding winning lottery numbers at this special place springs from the proven luck of nagas already being given the gift of becoming human. Who wouldn’t want to bottle that up and take it home with them? On a personal level I couldn’t help but wonder if the relationship between humans and nagas might be changing due to the irreparable harm we are doing to the river systems of the region by dams and pollution. Locals said that the level of interaction remains at the same level it has always been and that the naga serpents know it is only a small number of people causing harm. The naga continue to work with those willing to effect positive changes that benefit the ecosystem and restore balance. After spending time here at the edges of the realm of the water spirits, I felt drawn to the banks of the Mekong River and then onwards to follow its course. But not before taking a punt with the maze of lottery ticket sellers gathered at the entrance to the bridge to Kham Chanote. Once you start looking for numbers, they seem to appear everywhere.
More strange tales such as this one can be found in the book by author Jim Algie entitled Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Sex, Crime and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourist attractions.
J U N E 2017 | 37
SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok
Sacred Love
Bangkokians flock to the Trimurti Shrine to join hearts
K
rung Thep, the Thai name for Bangkok, is most often translated as “City of Angelsˮ, but a more literal translation is “City of Deitiesˮ. The sobriquet seems especially appropriate in Ratchaprasong, Bangkok’s best-known shopping area, where elaborate deity shrines stand alongside huge retail malls and luxury hotels. A half dozen shrines here serve a steady stream of devotees who make offerings to the resident divinities in
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By Joe Cummings/CPA Media the hope of improving their fortunes or having wishes granted. All six shrines pay homage to gods from the Brahmanist pantheon. Thai Buddhism comfortably embraces Shiva, Brahma, Indra, Vishnu, Ganesh, and other Hindu deities as guardians of the Buddhist faith, as well as divine entities capable of altering one’s luck for the better. While Thais pray to Buddha for better rebirths, they often worship Hindu gods for advancement
and good fortune in their present day lives. For international visitors, the shrines offer a fascinating glimpse into how Bangkok smoothly blends ancient and modern cityscapes. The Brahma Shrine next to the Grand Hyatt Erawan is the most visited, known worldwide for its colourful kae bon (wish granted) dancers, heaped garlands of yellow blossoms, dripping yellow candles, and thick clouds of incense. bangkok101.com
joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS
Offerings at the other shrines in the neighbourhood tend to be much the same, with one notable exception. At the Trimurti Shrine in front of CentralWorld, instead of yellow marigolds and yellow candles, worshippers choose to offer red roses, red candles and red Fanta. As in many
Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com
other cultures, red is associated with affairs of the heart, and it is for love that Thais pay homage to the Trimurti. At any time of day or night—but mostly at night—single young women and the occasional single male worshipper approach the shrine armed with roses, candles, and incense. They kneel for several minutes with eyes closed, clasping their hands together as they repeat the mantras inscribed on a plaque in front of the statue. Built in 1989, the Trimurti Shrine consists of not just one but three Hindu deities standing cheek by jowl on a raised platform, sheltered by a dome that is supported by four pillars and adorned with elaborately carved gables on each side. Said to be a latter-day replica of an original Trimurti sculpture that once stood in Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former royal capital, the divine triad consists of Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer. Cast in bronze and fully gilded, the trio of heads sit atop a slender body adorned with detailed regalia and flaring robes. In Sanskrit, Trimurti literally means Three Forms. Also known as the Great Trinity, the tripartite figure symbolizes the union of all gods. In contrast with
the original intended Hindu meaning, Trimurti in Thailand has somehow come to be associated with the union of couples. Although originally standing at the Ratchaprasong intersection at the corner of CentralWorld, the shrine was moved to its current position next to a Ganesha Shrine a number of years ago when CentralWorld underwent expansion. The worship of elephantheaded Ganesha, the son of Shiva and remover of obstacles, is almost as fervent as that of the Trimuriti. The shrine is most crowded on Thursday evenings around 9.30pm, thought to be the best time to ask for help finding new love or patching up a fading romance, because that’s the time of the week the deities are thought to descend from heaven to hear the prayers of supplicants. Devotees typically offer nine red roses, nine red candles, and nine incense sticks. Valentine’s Day is thought to be the most auspicious day of all, so if you’re one of the lovelorn, or if you merely want to see the Trimurti completely enveloped by devotees, pay a visit next February 14th at around 9pm. J U N E 2017 | 39
SNAPSHOTS | very thai
Thai Massage
T
Ancient techniques for healing and relaxing the body
hailand has two massage cultures: clothed and unclothed. Don’t confuse the two. Enter a parlour signed nuad (massage) expecting nuad paen boran (literally ‘ancient massage’) and you get, ahem, “young” massage. This might involve ancient techniques, but more likely oil, towels, soap and a happy ending. To outsiders, mention of ‘Thai massage’ triggers nudgenudge wisecracks about a notorious nightlife scene that’s bubbled for half a century. That cliché has been lucrative, yet limiting for the international potential for traditional Thai massage, a therapy that really heals. Dubbed “dancing meditation” and “yoga massage”, nuad paen boran is like having yoga done to you rather than by you. Along with postures that stretch muscles, loosen joints and detoxify internal organs, it involves sometimes painful acupressure along 10 invisible sen (energy lines) to release blocked energy. This Vedic Indian science over 2,500 years old was imported by Buddhist monks around 18 centuries ago and, like herbal healing, historically centred on the wat. Wat Pho leads the Bangkok-style and exponents preserve the waikhru worship of not just teachers, but the art’s purported inventor, Buddha’s physician Shivaka Kumar Baccha. Behind each contortion lies a philosophical concept. A masseur “is practicing the physical application of metta, or the loving kindness advocated in Theravada Buddhism,” says spa expert Chamsai Jotisalikorn. “A truly good Thai masseur performs his art in a meditative mood, starting with a prayer to centre himself.” The therapy is reciprocal. The masseur needn’t be strong since they rock their body weight gently through precisely leveraged
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 4 0 | J U N E 2017
postures using knee, feet and elbow as well as hands. It can be painful when suppressed tension releases, particularly when masseurs crack fingers, loosen knots or tread on the patient’s back. As some procedures carry physical risk, cognoscenti request an older mor nuad (massage doctor) when seeking treatment for an ailment. Some mor nuad are blind. Massage is a major profession for the unsighted, as in several Asian countries. “They can concentrate on massaging more than sighted masseurs can. They have purer intention,” says Petcharat Techawatchara, president of the Foundation for Employment of the Blind, whose trainees are 60 per cent males. Most sighted masseuses are women. “Women can massage customers of any age and gender, but sighted male masseurs of women could be inadvertently seduced by their visual perception.” A full session takes two hours, but casual massage moments permeate daily life. Mothers massage babies, teenagers knead grandparents, vendors and motorcycle taxi drivers squeeze the shoulders of colleagues. Roving masseurs pamper vacationers on the beach, while fairs feature openair stalls of massage and foot reflexology. Saved from oblivion after Ayutthaya’s fall, and later institutionalized by King Rama VI’s founding of a massage association, nuad paen boran has had a renaissance through tourism and Western interest in Eastern healing. Thousands of foreigners now come here to learn it—or the softer northern style in Chiang Mai. Thai classical massage is becoming a global brand. Now that therapeutic massage can rival naughty nuad as a moneymaking industry, the government ranks parlour licenses in rising categories: from hanky-panky to therapy to spa.
Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com
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SNAPSHOTS | heritage
Democracy Monument at night
Ratchadamnoen Klang Avenue Wanderings along Thailand’s most “Un-Thai” avenue
F
or most Bangkok natives, and residents, Ratchadamnoen Klang Avenue is probably considered the most iconic place to recommend for a sight-seeing tourist. It is a large avenue, lacking the typical Thai style that is preeminent in Bangkok (which tends toward the extremes of either well-manicured streets boasting palaces and temples, a mess of charmless concrete buildings from the 70s and 80s with cables everywhere, or a dense pathway of ultra-modern contemporary shopping malls and condominiums). Ratchadamnoen Klang—not to be confused with Ratchadamnoen Nok—is the city’s ultimate expression of the “new” Thailand, which emerged from the 1932 revolution in which the nation’s absolute monarchy was turned into a constitutional one. In power then was the Khana Ratsadon (People’s Party) under Prime Minister Field Marshall Plaek Phibunsongkhram, who
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Words and photos by Luc Citrinot wanted to transform and modernize Siam along a path taken by authoritarian regimes in Europe at that time. The architecture of this era draws largely on the then popular construction styles from Germany, Italy and, to a lesser extent, the Soviet Union. Massive formal structures with a minimalist geometric layout, as well as large statues and monuments, were constructed in Bangkok to assert the new power. Architecture in the 1930s was, above all, a reflection of ideology and politics. With respect to Ratchadamnoen Klang Avenue, the Field Marshall took his inspiration from the Champs Elysées in Paris. It had been a similar case for the first part of Ratchadamnoen Nok, where one finds shady parterres with large trees and palaces which were built mostly during the reign of Kings Rama V and VI. The extension from the Phan Pha Lilat Bridge into Sanam Luang is in
total opposition with the other part of the avenue. Work started in 1935, three years after the Siam Revolution, and it was a complete physical transformation of the avenue. Mahogany trees were torn down, the road enlarged, and new buildings erected. What characterizes the avenue is its unity in style. Ratchadamnoen Klang was constructed in a blend of Art Deco—international and fascist styles— with most of the structures along the avenue being rectangular blocky forms arranged in geometric fashion, then broken up by curved ornamental elements or corners. They all give a sense of grandeur and monolithic style, despite their simplicity in forms. This “simple” architecture was deliberately chosen as the new buildings were reflecting the established principle of equality within the society, opposing the opulent palaces and villas built during the previous reigns. It is bangkok101.com
heritage | SNAPSHOTS probably one of the world’s most impressive examples of Art Deco and Art Moderne architectural styles. The new structures were first designed to accommodate shops, offices, hotels, and government administrations, but unfortunately they never proved very popular with locals. In the midst of the avenue, a monument dedicated to the newly acquired democracy of 1932 was created. For Phibunsongkhram, the height and the shape of the monument was to be a visual point in the avenue— like the Arc de Triomphe at the top of the Champs-Elysées in Paris. Highly symbolic, with many numerical symbols, Democracy Monument was finished in 1939, the year the term “Siam” was officially replaced by the moniker “Thailand”. The monument itself was a cooperative project between Thai architect Jitrsean Abhaiwongse and Italian Corrado Feroci (Silpa Birasri). The involvement of the Italian explains the strong similarity with monuments from Mussolini’s Italy. The triumphant structure was constructed in a lotus-shape, with four wings surrounding a turret which integrates six gates representing the
Historic
Bangkok
Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com
six principles of the People’s Party (freedom, peace, education, equality, economy, and unity). The 24-meter high wings represent the guardians of the new constitution. They honour the army, the navy, the air force, and the police. Bas reliefs on each wing highlight the role played by the armed forces in protecting and giving democracy to the Thai people. Another memorial, on the corner of the Khok Wua intersection, was officially inaugurated in 2001 to commemorate the students’ revolt and massacre of October 14th, 1973. The memorial provides explanation about the event and pays homage to the dead. Maybe this tragic event contributed to the long period of neglect of Ratchadamnoen Klang, a decline due also to the fact that in the 80s many offices moved to Bangkok's new commercial centre on Sukhumvit Road. The only passers-by left along the street were beggars and homeless people, hanging around the Government’s Lottery Office in the hopes of scoring a winning ticket. The run-down buildings were ignored until the early 2000s, when a study was commissioned to transform Ratchadamnoen Klang into a cultural street with a new promenade and new shops and attractions. In the last five years, the project picked up its pace with many buildings been renovated, or on the verge of being revitalized. Most received a fresh coat of yellow or beige paint. Following the renovation, former shops and offices have been turned
into cultural institutions. Next to the renovated Loha Prasat temple and its newly shiny golden spires is the Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall, a very good interactive museum telling all about Bangkok’s history and development. It’s open from 10am to 7pm daily (except Monday), and admission is B100. Also worth a look is the Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Center & ASEAN Cultural Centre, which features regular painting exhibitions and is open 10am to 5pm daily (except Monday). Admission is free. Nearby, across from the October 14th Memorial and close to Khao San Road, stands the newly opened Bangkok City Library. Housed in a beautiful restored building, the library—currently open daily till 9 pm (except Mondays) and scheduled to eventually be open 24 hours a day— boasts almost 5,000 sq.m of space, split over four levels, with books in both Thai and English. A temporary permit to enter is available free of charge. Last but not least, it is fun to look in on the Royal Hotel at the corner of Ratchadamnoen Klang and Sanam Luang. This old style hotel is one of the oldest surviving accommodations in the Thai capital. Built in 1940, the hotel was considered one of the best in Bangkok until the 1970s when new hotels in Silom and Sukhumvit took over. Today, the hotel looks run down but the main staircase, with its frescoes and bas reliefs, retains its sense of grandeur from the old days.
Bangkok City Library
Loha Prasat
Contemporary Art Center J U N E 2017 | 43
The King Mengrai Memorial, a hallowed city landmark 4 4 | J U N E 2017
Photo by Sam Kai Kwong
TRAVEL |
bangkok101.com
| TRAVEL
CHIANG RAI 101 T
he comparatively sleepy outpost of CHIANG RAI is approximately a three hour drive due northeast of Chiang Mai—its exceedingly popular neighbour—and many visitors use it as a base from which to explore the surrounding hills and jungles. In fact, Chiang Rai province is something of a trekking paradise, and many journeys even offer the chance to spend a night in an Akha or Lisu hilltribe village. But it’s not all about trekking, and the beautiful mountain village of MAE SALONG makes for a fascinating day trip. Settled by Kuomintang Chinese soldiers fleeing the advancing Communists in the late 1940s, Mae Salong is now a hive of tea-making activity, replete with surprisingly charming cafes and guesthouses. Meanwhile, no foray to this part of Thailand would be complete without a visit to the infamous GOLDEN TRIANGLE (see pg. 55). Visitors can also enjoy more urban attractions in the city of Chiang Rai, which is on the cusp of turning from a rural provincial capital into something more sophisticated and edgy. For some, this progress is best evidenced by the appearance of modern shopping malls in the city—bringing in brand names and quality retailers—but for others the city’s new-found sophistication can be measured by its growing art scene and café culture. Historically the town, situated in the MAE KOK (Kok River) basin, served as the first capital of King Mengrai’s Lanna kingdom (a memorial statue of this revered monarch is a hallowed city landmark). Meanwhile, the amusingly named Kok River serves as a Northern border to the town, and actually runs all the way up into the Shan State in Burma. There are several restaurants and bars set up along the banks of the river—making it the perfect spot for a relaxing afternoon of dozing, or a leisurely ride on a rented bicycle. For upscale travelers there are some wonderful accommodation options in the city, including the LE MERIDIEN, an idyllic 26 rai property located on the banks of the Kok River, complete with a man-made lake and a pair of impressive rain trees that are over 100-years-old. Another luxury property is the DUSIT ISLAND RESORT CHIANG RAI, which is nestled on an island in the middle of the river. By contrast, THE MANTRINI offers travelers a more funky, boutique vibe, and even boasts a Lanna fusion restaurant. However, if your tastes veer towards the weird and wonderful the RED ROSE HOTEL is a fantasy retreat where the rooms have been designed according to various themes—from the flight deck of a spaceship, to a Thai boxing ring, a split-level rainforest, and a Paleolithic bachelor pad. There are also plenty of dining options in in town, with many located along the main drag of Phaholyothin Road. Recommended spots in and around Chiang Rai city include CHIVIT THAMMA DA, a hugely popular bar and restaurant that started out as a café and spa a few years ago. Or, for something wacky and wonderful, try the CABBAGES & CONDOMS restaurant, which stands right next to the HILLTRIBE MUSEUM. Like its sister venue in Bangkok, C&C is devoted to promoting condom use to help prevent juvenile pregnancy and STDs. On a more traditional bent, TONG TUNG is quite central and puts on enchanting dance shows to accompany its Northern style cuisine, or for a simple café experience, THE ROAST on San Khong Luang Road is a fabulous java joint. Finally, for atmosphere (and food), few places will beat MOOM MAI, a two-storey Lanna house located a bit outside the downtown core, with humorously eclectic garden collections, and live Thai/Western folk music nightly. Or, check out the restaurant at the ART BRIDGE GALLERY—on the way to the airport—which overlooks rice fields and mountains and serves tasty local dishes.
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2017 | 45
TRAVEL | focus on chiang rai
What to See & What to Do HILLTRIBE MUSEUM: Since one of the major reasons people come to Chiang Rai province is to visit hill tribe communities, it stands to reason that museum dedicated to them exists in the city. If you don’t have the time to make it up to the surrounding hills to see these communities in person then a stop here is a must, but a visit here before you venture out into the forested jungles is also highly recommended. Run by the nonprofit Population & Community Development Association (PDA), the museum’s exhibits contain a wealth of information on Thailand’s various tribes and the issues that surround them. Admission is B50, and the museum is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm, and weekends from 10am to 6pm. www.pdacr.org SHOPPING: When night falls shoppers flock to the Chiang Rai Night Bazaar, which is much more modest than the one in Chiang Mai, and less clogged with sweaty tourists haggling over fake watches. While browsing for souvenirs and looking for late night street eats, be sure to catch the dazzling and colourful automated light and sound show at the nearby Golden Clock Tower (right), which takes place nightly at 7, 8, and 9pm.
TEMPLES: Significant religious landmarks include Wat Klang Wiang, one of the city’s most ornate and heavily decorated temples, and Wat Phra Singh (pictured), which was built in the 14th century, about 100 years after the city’s founding. Another historic site is Wat Phra Kaew, which dates back to the founding of the city and is also the temple where the original Emerald Buddha—now at the Grand Palace, Bangkok—was discovered following a mysterious bolt of lightning (or so it is said). 46 | J U N E 2017
OUB KHAM MUSEUM: Located about 1 km out of town, near the Den Ha market, this museum is a charming little place filled with costumes and ornaments from all over the Lanna region. For some it might be beguilingly chaotic, but it’s home to some genuinely impressive artefacts and offers a comprehensive thousand-year history of the Tai people and Lanna culture. The highlight is the 400-yearold golden throne of Tai Yai royals from the Shan State in Myanmar (the only one of its kind left in the world). The museum is open daily from 8am to 5pm, and admission is B300. Tel: 05 371 3349 bangkok101.com
focus on chiang rai | TRAVEL
Monochrome Marvels The White Temple and the Black House are two of Chiang Rai’s most eye-popping artistic attractions
It’s surely one of the wildest-looking structures ever conceived by man, riddled with allegorical allusions to Buddhism and Thai culture at large. The building of the temple first began in 1996, and upon full completion—in another estimated 50 years—the grounds will boast a total of nine structures, completing the artist’s vision of Buddhist heaven. Admission used to be free, but now a small charge of B50 is required, and opening hours are from 8am to 5pm daily. Tel: 05 367 3579
C
hiang Rai doesn’t overflow with temples like Chiang Mai does, but there’s one Buddhist structure here that is undoubtedly more original than most others in Thailand. Located about 13 km south of Chiang Rai city, Wat Rong Khun is most commonly referred to as the White Temple (for obvious reasons). Arriving at its location on the town’s outskirts, visitors are at once dazzled by the sight of this blindingly white Wat that appears to have been dusted in icing sugar or frozen in a blizzard. It was conceived by well-known Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose handiwork can also be seen on the city’s Golden Clock Tower (see pg. 46). Breaking with most of the traditional elements of other temples, this one is striking in its snowy whiteness— meant to symbolize Buddhist purity—inlaid with mirrors to suggest the reflections of enlightenment. Of course, reaching such a state is not meant to be easy, so you’ll have to pass through a pair of giant fangs and a lake of miserable hell-bound figures to get there. Once inside, visitors are greeted by the sight of some of the strangest temple murals ever conceived. New York’s smouldering Twin Towers, Doreamon, Batman, and Neo from the Matrix are just a few of the modern icons to be spotted in the interior’s wild and flaming orange depiction of hell. bangkok101.com
In stark contrast to the White Temple is Baan Dam, commonly known as the Black House. Conceived and imagined by Thawan Duchanee, another visionary Chiang Rai-born artist, it’s a surrealistic series of Thai style houses and temple-like structures located in the countryside, on the main road north of Chiang Rai city. The structure, built over the past 36 years, has a more tranquil, artist’s retreat-like air, but is similar in its contemporary takes on tradition. There’s a colossal black teak pavilion that looks conventional out front, but walk through it and you find yourself in a tree-studded garden compound dotted with Lanna-style pavilions and chedi-like capsules with steel doors that are filled with Duchanee’s collections of buffalo skulls, animal skins, and well-endowed wooden statues—offering a glimpse into his unconventional tastes. Baan Dam is open daily from 9am to 5pm (admission is free). Tel: 05 377 6333 J U N E 2017 | 47
TRAVEL | out & about chiang rai
2-Wheel Touring
Smiling Albino, the masters of luxury adventure travel, offer unique and customizable cycling trips in and around Chiang Rai Singha Park
Words and photos by Bruce Scott
A
lthough the province of Chiang Rai boasts some impressive mountains, the landscape around Chiang Rai city is relatively flat. The town is built around the wide, shallow, and slow moving Kok River, and this river basin topography is great news for cyclists, as it makes the area in and around the provincial capital great for bike trips.
local attractions. Starting at US$240 per person—although considerably less for larger groups—it includes bike rental, equipment, guide, vehicle support, lunch, all admission fees, and elephant camp visit. It began promptly at 9am with a pick up at my hotel. From there we drove to Fat Free, a local bike rental shop with a great selection of well-maintained mountain bikes (Tel: 086 430 5523). After getting set up with a suitable set of wheels, we set off to the site where we would begin our two-wheel trek, a little ways outside the busy downtown core. The tour guide, Khun Eak, made sure I was outfitted with helmet and padded cycling gloves, and assured me that the song taew (a converted pick-up truck with passenger seating in the back) following us on our journey had plenty of drinking water should I need it. And though it was not even 10am, I could feel the heat of the day coming on strong.
Khun Eak leads the pack
One tour company capitalizing on this bike-friendly geography is Smiling Albino, a Thai-based group of hardcore, extreme travel enthusiasts offering high-end, personally-tailored adventures throughout Asia. In Chiang Rai, their range of customizable or set-route cycling trips covers the gamut from 20 km local excursions, to all-day adventures such as the ‘Bikes, Boat and Cave’ tour which includes a scenic riverside cycle, a visit to hill tribe towns, and stops at cave temples. I joined these fun-loving Canadians on one of their newly charted journeys which takes in several notable 4 8 | J U N E 2017
Singha Park tea fields
After cycling along the undulating twists and turns of Highway 1211—past rice fields, forests, small townships, roadside temples, and plenty of greenery—we made our bangkok101.com
out & about chiang rai | TRAVEL first stop at Singha Park. Also known as Boon Rawd Farm, this is agro-tourism destination spans over 12.8 sq.km of fertile land, growing everything from tea to ornamental flowers. Strangely, outside bicycles are not allowed in (you have to rent one of the park bikes instead), but cars and trucks are welcome and so we parked our bikes across the road and made a quick overview of the park from the back of our song taew. The immaculately manicured tea plantations are beautiful to look at, but the biggest draw seems to the park’s Bhu Bhirom Restaurant (open daily from 11am till 10pm). There’s also a visitor information centre to check out—with Thai and English signage—but we were content to just take in the scenery briefly, and get back on our bikes. But not before a pick me-up in the form of a hot cappuccino from Mama Café, located in a strip of shops directly across from the park entrance. The café proudly uses Doi Chang coffee, which is grown locally (on a clear day you can actually see Doi Chang mountain from here, about 20 km due west). Once back on our bikes we took a smaller series of side roads, passing more rice fields and country homes, as well as some beautiful tall teak trees and lychee trees with almost-ripe bunches of fruit hanging from their boughs.
Wat Rong Khun
Our next stop was the majestic Wat Rong Khun, also known as the White Temple (see pg. 47), which is a magnificent structure to see in person, as long as you don’t mind hordes of fellow tourists enjoying it alongside you. It’s hard to see it all in one visit, but there’s definitely enough time to stroll over the bridge—past claw-like hands, mammoth pointed fangs, and glaring demonic gate guardians—and pause inside the main structure where the walls of the interior are painted with a gruesome, surrealistic depiction of hell. Entrance to the Wat compound is B50 (included in the tour price) and shoes must be removed before entering the inner temple. Our next stop was the recently opened Elephant Valley Thailand, a nature retreat and sanctuary for rescued and abused elephants. We made it just in time for lunch, which consisted of a tasty array of Thai dishes, and then spent the next 90 minutes peacefully observing the sanctuary’s four pachyderm inhabitants as they went about their daily elephant lives. This particular elephant camp is not a place where elephants do tricks and take tourists on rides around the jungle. Instead, it’s a peaceful bangkok101.com
park where humans stay a respectful distance away from these gentle giants and merely observe (see side bar). The last leg of our journey took us down more quiet country roads, eventually doubling back and culminating at the bus depot on the outskirts of the city. After a rejuvenating iced coffee we travelled by song taew back to the city, dropping the bikes back at the rental shop and me back at my hotel (arrival time of about 4pm). In all we had covered about 25 km by bike, but I didn’t feel tired at all. At least, not until I got back to my room where I promptly dozed off on the balcony after taking a quick shower. For info call 02 107 2542, or email: info@smilingalbino.com www.smilingalbino.com
PACHYDERM PARADISE
Visitors to Elephant Valley Thailand, described as the first true elephant sanctuary in Chiang Rai, have the opportunity to experience a unique kind of interaction with the camp’s four resident elephant inhabitants. Unlike other elephant parks there’s no actual physical contact with the animals—except during the twice daily feeding—as the emphasis is on watching from a safe distance and gaining a true understanding of what a “wild” elephant is really like. The man running the show here is Managing Director Jack Highroad, who spent the last number of years running the similarly-modelled Elephant Valley Project in Cambodia. He’s a wealth of information on elephants, and is on hand to answer questions and make sure that guests don’t overstep and get too close to these mammoth mammals. The sanctuary covers an area of about 40 acres and visitors can choose between the Elephant Lovers experience (B2,400) which entails spending a morning or afternoon at the park and includes lunch and return transport, or the Volunteer Experience (B3,000) in which guests spend a full day at the park, have lunch, and help with elephant maintenance chores. The park also offers overnight stays in the property’s newly opened guesthouse (packages starting at B2,800), which include meals while onsite, and transfers within the Chiang Rai area. www.elephantvalleys.com
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TRAVEL | where to stay chiang rai
The Legend Chiang Rai Relaxing riverside retreat in the heart of the city
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or more than a decade The Legend Chiang Rai Boutique River Resort & Spa has been providing travelers to Chiang Rai with an idyllic oasis that’s so calm and peaceful it’s sometimes hard to believe just how centrally located it really is. The resort was designed to merge harmoniously with its riverside surroundings, and guests will find the 12 rai property to be a shady landscape of tropical trees and fragrant flowers, interspersed with a network of lotus ponds, ornate bridges, and winding pathways. The accommodations consist of 78 nicely appointed studios and villas, offering king size or queen/ single beds, as well as all the other high-end amenities you’d expect— beautiful linens, air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, satellite TV, safety box, tea and coffee making facilities, minibar, and more—as well as some other nice touches, such as screened doors and room fans (since the evenings are lovely and mild throughout much of the year). Inside is a soothing mix of natural wood, terracotta brick, white hand-plastered walls, and polished 50 | J U N E 2017
cement flooring. It feels casual yet chic at the same time. The 52 sq.m Superior and Deluxe Studio units offer stunning views of the lush gardens as well as an open-sala living area, semi-outdoor bathroom, and day bed. The 63 sq.m Grand Deluxe Studios offer all of the above plus a double size bathtub featuring a relaxing jet massage, while the much larger one- and two-bedroom Pool Villas add to this list an extensive outdoor living area—each with an 11 sq.m swimming pool and private terrace. Of course, if your unit doesn’t have a private pool, you can use the resort’s beautiful free-form infinity pool, which also provides panoramic river views. There’s a shallow end for kids as well as a slightly deeper side for the adults, and poolside bar and food service is available. Right beside the pool sits the Chiang Saen Spa, which provides natural herbal steam saunas, as well as individual massage treatments indoors or in one of the shaded outdoor salas overlooking the river. Or if you prefer to unwind with a workout, there a fully equipped fitness room also located near the
pool (right beside the resort’s tranquil reading room and internet station) which is open from 6am till 10pm. Finally, diners are well-taken care of here, as the riverside Sala Rim Nam open-air, all-day restaurant serves delicious breakfasts as well as traditional Thai favourites and international delights (the spicy red curry duck with pineapple, and the deep fried vegetable spring rolls were two stand outs). For a different vibe the resort’s Wine Casa Bar & Italian Restaurant serves up top-notch Italian cuisine (the wood-fire oven pizzas are terrific) from 5pm till midnight, with either indoor or open-air terrace seating. However, I was most charmed by the Chainam Garden, a 40 seat outdoor eating area right on the banks of the river, where tall shade trees stand amidst a mix of table and benchsofa seating. It’s a picture perfect chill out spot. by Bruce Scott
The Legend Chiang Rai 124/15 Kohloy Rd. Tel: 053 910 400 www.thelegend-chiangrai.com
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CUISINE ART
Gold: Suppleness, Strength, and Status Ruen Urai’s Thai gourmet journey explores the natural elements that represent significant meanings in Thai food and customs. Similar to many cultures, Thais value gold or “tong” as status symbol. Soft and supple gold leaves are used for gilding iconic images and objects, while the metal itself is strong enough to be cast, bent, and melded into pieces of precious jewellery or large Buddha images. Thai culinary art’s “Midas touch” comes in various forms of egg-based desserts, originated in Portugal and adapted by the King Narai’s Court in Ayutthaya period. These sweets, with a myriad of gold-connoted names, include the luscious Tong Yib, Tong Yord, and Foy Tong. They are auspiciously catered in ceremonies because they are believed to bring good luck, love, and prosperity. Experience fine Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
TRAVEL | where to stay chiang rai
Katiliya Mountain Resort Rooms with a view are just the beginning
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hailand’s Chiang Rai province is blessed with some beautiful verdant mountain ranges, but to really appreciate them nothing beats a few days spent high on one of these hills in a lofty luxury getaway, where the air is clean and the breezes and bountiful. One such elevated escape is the Katiliya Mountain Resort & Spa, located a bit less than an hour’s drive directly north from Chiang Rai city. The sprawling property, which is located in the district of Mae Chan, offers guests plenty of choice, with 90 luxury suites in total. The 90 sq.m Mountain Suite, the 100 sq.m Katiliya Suite, and the one- or two-bedroom 100 sq.m Superior Suites all come with king-sized beds, full amenities, and rustic stone balconies with spectacular views. I found myself
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checked into room 101—purely by coincidence—and was treated to glorious unobstructed sunrise views from my balcony which overlooked the nearby mountains and the tea fields in the distance. The added bonus of this exposure was that the balcony was cool and shaded by mid-afternoon, perfect for enjoying the cool mountain air. Inside, my room was spacious to a fault, boasting a four-poster bed, daybed recliner big enough for two, flatscreen TV, writing desk, mini-fridge, a luxurious bathroom with sunken bathtub and a choice of indoor or outdoor shower, and plenty of other treats besides (including WiFi). However, for a more traditional feel the resort also offers rooms in their Baan Thai, which is comprised of six unique 120 sq.m rooms that
have been crafted with elements of Thai, Mandalay, and Yunnan architecture. Overall, the property very much incorporates itself into the surrounding nature. Take a walk around the grounds and it’s hard not to be enchanted by the abundance of birds trilling away happily in the many treetops. And come May and June the area is overflowing with hundreds and hundreds of butterflies (I was too early by a few weeks). Another way to enjoy the outdoors is by taking in a dip in the main outdoor swimming pool and/or tanning on one of the pool’s many cushioned lounge chairs. There’s also a small kiddie pool on the property, as well as a separate heated Jacuzzi step pool—which comes in handy when the weather cools down in December and January. bangkok101.com
where to stay chiang rai | TRAVEL
The cool weather months are often the busiest at Katiliya, when the outside temperatures can get down to as low as 8°C in the evening. During these icy interludes roaring fires are lit in the gargantuan stone fireplace of the main lobby, located directly beside the aptly named Fireplace Bar (which is a nice relaxing spot even on temperate evenings). But no matter what time of year, the view of the surrounding forestcovered hills from the west-facing Terrance Restaurant are stunning, especially at sunset. This is the resort’s primary F&B outlet, and as such it serves up both a generous breakfast
buffet, and offers an extensive lunch and dinner menu, including authentic Italian and Mediterranean dishes, plenty of tasty pizzas, and Northern Thai specialties such as Khao Soy Gai (yellow coconut curry with egg noodles, chicken, and pickled cabbage), and the veggie-friendly Tom Kha Pak Ruam Jay (mixed vegetable is a coconut spicy cream soup). Apart from eating, sleeping, sunning, and swimming, other diversions here include a fitness room, a small library and computer room, and a relaxing spa where guests can enjoy a variety of massages, body scrubs, and
facials in the comfort of sun-drenched private treatment rooms—each with their own private terrace overlooking the twin lakes. And keep in mind that Katiliya’s location makes it the perfect base from which to go on day trips to see some of the Golden Triangle’s most popular attractions (see side bar below). by Bruce Scott
Katiliya Mountain Resort & Spa
388/1, Moo 4 Tambol Pha Sang, Mae Chan Tel: 05 360 3000 www.katiliya.com
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS There are plenty of amazing destinations in the Golden Triangle (see pg. 55) but the Katiliya Mountain Resort is particularly well-situated to visiting the nearby Choui Fong Tea Plantation, which is a mere 6 km away and open daily from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Visitors to this over 1,000 rai property in the mountains can see first-hand how tea is grown and cultivated. Watch as workers hand-pick the leaves from the neat rows of tea trees that cascade down the hillside slopes, and afterwards be sure to make a stop at the café and shop where you can sample teas and treats and marvel at the stunning scenic vistas. www.chouifongtea.com A newer attraction worth checking out is the Doi Tung Tree Top Walk, in which explorers can experience a 300-meter long walkway—suspended 30 meters above the ground— which winds its way through the canopy of trees at the Mae Fah Luang Garden. The price for both adults and children is just B150 per person. www.treetopadventurepark.com/doitung
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TRAVEL | making merit
Elephant Welfare
Two luxury Chiang Rai resorts join forces for one great cause By Bruce Scott
Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort
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wo of the most unique and unforgettable—not to mention exceedingly luxurious—accommodation options in Chiang Rai province are the Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort and the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle. The resorts are both located in the far Northern reaches of the province, right near the border that separates Thailand from Myanmar and Laos, but geography isn’t the only thing these two glamorous getaways share. They also both support and incorporate the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation (GTAEF) as part of the guest experience. In fact, interactions with this shared pool of pachyderms is one of the main attractions for holiday makers staying at either of these resorts. The GTAEF is a Thai registered, not-for-profit originally set up in 2005 with the aim of rescuing elephants—as well as mahouts and their
Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle
families—from around Thailand. Many of the elephants under the organization’s care come from the streets, but others have arrived from illegal logging camps, trekking camps, or dubious elephant shows. The GTAEF strongly believes that in an ideal world all elephants would roam wild, but in the face of this impossibility they strive to at least assist captive elephants, improving their lives and welfare, while also taking part in conservation and wild elephant programs to ensure the survival of the wild herd. The foundation “rents” the elephants from the mahout, providing fodder, a forest environment, and shelter, as well as vet care for the elephant and food, accommodation, health care, and insurance for the mahouts and their families. In turn, the GTAEF is supported by the Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort and the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, and these organizations cover all administrative costs (the parent company of both resorts, Minor International, is the GTAEF’s largest single donor). So bask in the lap of luxury at either of these exclusive properties and help support a good cause. www.fourseasons.com/goldentriangle goldentriangle.anantara.com
Find out more about the GTAEF’s great work by visiting them online at: www.helpingelephants.org 54 | J U N E 2017
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focus on the golden triangle | TRAVEL
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The Golden Triangle
ess than 70 km northeast of Chiang Rai there exists one of Thailand’s most infamous destinations—the point where Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar all meet. Here, the little village of Sop Ruak exists as the epicenter of “The Golden Triangle”, a moniker coined by the US Central Intelligence Agency to describe the rampant, and exceedingly lucrative, opium production that was once common to this area in all three countries. Nowadays, as one gazes across the Mekong River to Myanmar and Laos—ignoring for a moment the roaring speedboats, souvenir vendors, and eyesore casinos—it’s hard not to get caught up in the romance of the place, and get lost in the mesmerizing scenery.
Photo by Sam Kai Kwong
DOI TUNG: This 1,389-meter-high mountain, one of the Golden Triangle’s major attractions, is generally full of Thai tourists year-round, due in part to the fact that the late Queen Mother set up a centre for agricultural research here, as well as the impressive Mae Fah Luang Botanical Garden. Another popular place to visit is the Hall of Inspiration, a well-curated museum that traces the area’s social and agricultural transformation—a direct result of the celebrated Royal Projects initiatives. In a few decades this area went from a dangerous opium producing region, to a profitable collection of local farmers raising fruits, vegetables, and cash crops such as coffee. You can even book a room and stay overnight here at the Doi Tung Lodge (call 05 376 7015). www.doitung.org
Doi Tung Gardens bangkok101.com
Opium den diorama
HALL OF OPIUM: Built by the Mae Fah Luang Foundation, under Royal Patronage, this is one of the most informative and noteworthy tourist attractions in the Northern region, and well worth a visit. The threestorey state of the art multimedia museum—not to be confused with the smaller House of Opium, or the Opium Museum in Sop Ruak—is creatively conceived, well laid out, covers 5,600 sq.m, and provides for a thought provoking afternoon. On the first floor, the history of opium is discussed, with a large section devoted to how the drug made its way to Asia. During the Industrial Revolution, expensive goods became cheap to manufacture and British exports flourished. The Brits traded around the world, with everyone except the Chinese, who didn’t need anything the English were offering. Eventually though, the Chinese population got hooked on opium, which was produced in India and sent via the famed East India Company (which the British controlled). The entire Chinese population became dependent and decimated by the drug, leading to the Opium Wars of the 1930s. Meanwhile, opium made inroads in Siam, brought in by the Chinese merchant class. It was even made legal for the ethnic Chinese for a time, and a farm tax of 25 percent was levied on it by the government, making it a very profitable enterprise. The ethnic Hmong migrated to Laos and Northern Thailand from China and Vietnam in the 1860s, and became the major cultivators of opium poppies in the region, setting in motion a lucrative trade that was only brought under control recently. Along with the historical halls the museum contains displays of the paraphernalia associated with opium, as well as full scale diorama depictions of opium dens and their smokers. Other displays show the medical and other contemporary uses of opium and its derivatives, and a final set of rooms is devoted to examining the drug trade and drugs in general. The museum is open daily from 8:30am to 4pm, and admission is B200. www.maefahluang.org J U N E 2017 | 55
TRAVEL | focus on phayao
Peaceful Phayao Silence is golden in the Golden Triangle By Gary Anthony Rutland
Kwan Phayao, the largest fresh-water lake in Northern Thailand
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ituated at the Southeastern edge of the famed Golden Triangle (see pg. 55), the Thai province of Phayao is a little known cluster of natural beauty, bordering Laos in the Northeast, and Chiang Rai province to the North (along with three other Thai provinces besides). Phayao Town is less than an hour’s drive south of Chiang Rai City, or you can make the spectacular 3-hour drive from Chiang Mai, which winds along a breathtaking jungle road that includes stunning switchback scenery, as well as passing through the beautiful valley and hot springs of Mae Kha Chiang. The town itself is in the Ing Valley, surrounded on three sides by mountains. It nestles sedately on the banks of the serene Kwan Phayao, the largest fresh-water lake in Northern Thailand, which provides a living to the majority of the locals through its fishing and tourist related businesses. At the quaint pastel-pink bus terminal there’s a sign detailing the town’s main attractions... all 4 of them! And all are within 1 km, which gives the impression there’s little to see or do here. A preconception that is both true and false. There’s just enough for the inquisitive traveler, but little or nothing for the young backpacker or boozy older bar-hound. Phayao was founded in 1096 as a small city-state kingdom, and attraction #4 on the attractions list is the King 56 | J U N E 2017
Ngam Muang Memorial situated on the lakefront, just a short walk from the bus depot. A local hero to this day, this king acceded to the throne in 1258 and maintained Phayao’s independence in the face of aggression from the far more powerful King Mengrai of Sukhothai. A couple of chedis on stilts, and naga statues opposite the monument, are the first of many excellent photo opportunities along the lakefront, and sunset shots from here are particularly dramatic. Strolling south along Chai Kwan (the lakefront) you’ll find old-fashioned wooden Thai fish restaurants proliferating, but most other types of cuisine are available here too. Finally, a large park that’s a popular evening hang out for locals and hosts the weekend evening market, awaits you at the end of your walk. The buildings along the lakefront are a mish-mash of ochre, yellow, russet, teal, and cobalt roofs which, together with pink and pale green building façades, creates a kaleidoscope of colours—particularly interesting when seen from the water as it provides a delightfully varied panorama. Completing the scene, palm trees, lavender bushes, and trees laden with lemon-coloured blossoms have been planted the length of the lakeside boulevard, capping the effect of a quaint and idiosyncratic small town resort. For maximum appreciation, the 10-minute, B30 boat ride to the “rescued” Buddha “on” the lake at Wat Ti Lok bangkok101.com
focus on phayao | TRAVEL
Phu Sang Stupa
King Ngam Muang Memorial
Doi Luang National Park
Aram is a must. The statue is on a small island placed on even smaller red brick ruins, possibly leftover from the Ayutthaya period. Here I paid B100 and released a pailload of snails and small fish—including menacing looking catfish and a solitary tiny turtle—into the lake, thus making all kinds of merit for myself. As well as the pleasing perspective of the shore, the boat ride allows you to get up close and personal with several species of the local wildlife. A periscope turned out to be a turtle’s head, a kingfisher stood sentry on one of the lake’s many protruding poles, and a small, stick-thin, brown, speckle-breasted heron with a pencil-thin beak waited until we were within touching distance before it took of lazily, revealing large brilliant-white wings. In the moments that followed—in which an eagle glided regally overhead—I realized this brief and enjoyable pilgrimage included that rarest of all phenomena in Thailand... silence! This, along with the air quality, proved to be one of the area’s major attractions Back on shore Cupcake Coffee and its tree-shaded garden beckoned. Once seated in its comfortably cushioned seats—another rarity in Thailand—we were treated to exceptional service, along with an excellent mango smoothie and iced-cappuccino, and delicious blueberry cheesecake with ice cream. Meanwhile, the view looking west across the lake provided a timeless scene of men in conical hats perched precariously on the back of their punt-like longboats, with dramatic jungle-clad mountains supplying an impressive backdrop. As the day drew to its sedate close we rode North to the outskirts of town before taking a left turn towards the mountains. In a couple of minutes we’d crossed a bridge
with sweeping North-South views of the lake, and then immediately turned left to follow the “scenic route”. The next 35 minutes were full of oohs, aahs, and unscheduled stops as we followed the long and winding road in and out and around the Western shore of Kwan Phayao. We marvelled at late day fishermen, rice fields, inlets, outlets, birds of a feather flocking together, and photographed the golden sun setting behind hills that now looked within touching distance. We shared the road with cyclists of all shapes, sizes, and proficiencies, as well as the occasional car. Back in town we made for the only farang eatery, Tony’s Bar. A short stroll from the bus station on Hanisut Road, Tony himself is a gregarious host serving quality Western food at reasonable prices in large portions (much appreciated after a hot day spent wandering, cycling, or riding along Kwan Phayao’s seductive shoreline). There are several smaller towns and villages in the surrounding area that all boast their own Northern Thai charms. Foreigners are few and far between, and the tourist industry is geared mostly toward Thai visitors. One de rigeur highlight is the Doi Luang National Park, which is home to Namtok Champa Thong, a beautiful waterfall, and the Phu Sang Stupa, assumed to have been built in 1257. Slightly further afield, close to the Laos border is the Pang Kha Royal Project Development Centre, famous for its 500-acre lychee orchard where you’re welcome to observe the way of life of the Hmong and Yao hill tribes. However, for those with a hankering for just some peace and quiet amidst fresh mountain air, Phayao Town and its environs offer a refreshing break where the silence is not the only thing that is golden.
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TRAVEL | over the border
The Road to Kengtung
Journey north through the Golden Triangle to Mynamar’s Shan State Words by Simon Yugler Photos by Sam Kai Kwong
Aerial view of Kengtung township
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ake the road north of Chiang Rai, going toward Myanmar’s pristine Eastern Shan State, and you’ll find yourself in a different world. With its rolling hills and refreshingly undeveloped lands. The Shan region has a past as fascinating as its present day inhabitants. Agriculture dominates this vivid landscape. Humble huts dwell amongst banana groves, while glistening rice paddies, teak plantations, and rubber trees populate the undulating hills. The air is crisp and clean here, and temperatures lower due to the increased altitude. With bright blue skies and radiant green fields, even the colours seem more vivid, creating the sense that this place is truly a world away. By continuing along the endlessly entrancing mountain slopes that eventually grow into foothills of Yunnan, in China (further north), intrepid travelers will finally arrive in the city of Kengtung. Proudly known as the “Capital of the Golden Triangle”—the geographical region which encompasses sections of Northern Thailand, Eastern
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Myanmar, and Western Laos—Kengtung was once a hotbed for narcotics and arms trading, and to this day its surrounding borders are still infamous for every variety of trafficked goods. In some hotel bathrooms there are still signs explaining that narcotics and arms deals are not allowed on the premises. Before the early 21st century, a majority of the world’s opium was grown in this region. Yet contrary to popular belief, opium production was introduced to the Golden Triangle only in the late 19th century, mostly by refugees from southern China—people we know today as the “Hill Tribes.” These ethnically distinct cultures, which include the Akha, Lahu, Hmong, Lisu, and Wa, brought with them opium cultivation as their most valuable cash crop, as the plant could thrive in this fertile mountain climate. Opium production flourished throughout the 20th century, encouraged by the various political factions that influenced this border-bound region. Today, however, bangkok101.com
over the border | TRAVEL
betel nut is the drug of choice, giving many of these people their iconic blackened teeth, while coffee and tea crops serve as the people’s main source of income. There are 135 different ethnic groups currently living in Myanmar—35 of which call this region home—with the Shan being the majority. However, after the military’s government takeover in the late 1950’s, speaking these traditional languages was banned throughout the country, as Burmese became the official language. Yet despite the colonial efforts of both the British and Yangon, a strong sense of cultural identity and self-determination is palpable here. Walk into any market, and you’re guaranteed to hear a diverse smattering of languages, the least of which being English and Burmese. To get to this mountain ‘Princedom’ I set out towards the Mae Sai border crossing, about an hour’s drive from Chiang Rai. As borders go, it was much calmer then I expected, with surprisingly few machine-gun-wielding police.
Kengtung feels like a sleepy town just waking up to the outside world. Situated in a beautiful mountain valley, and centered around the picturesque Nongtong Lake, there are only a small handful of landmarks which define this quaint city. Several ancient chedis (stupas) and monasteries inhabit the hills a short walk from the town center, and a massive, gleaming standing Buddha—a recent addition—gazes benevolently down upon the city. At the site of the former regional prince’s palace, the Amazing Kengtung Resort is situated in the heart of the city, and is perhaps the best bet for travelers wishing to stay in style. While Myanmar is indeed opening up to the wider world, the government still has many policies in place which limit travelers, such as requiring foreigners to stay at government-approved establishments. The ‘Amazing Hotels’ group is one of these chains, and has locations all across the country. The resort is built around a spacious garden and swimming pool, and offers clean, comfortable rooms, most of which include a balcony with a view of either the garden and pool, or of the city and the illuminated standing Buddha across the valley. Internet is slow all over Myanmar, but it’s usually accessible here. Perhaps the most memorable aspect of the Amazing Kengtung Resort was the consistently delicious food, which was served as a pre-fixe dinner every evening. It always included a sampling of Burmese and Shan dishes, most memorably a variety of meat and seafood curries, as well as a savoury Shan-style rice cake. The restaurant here truly stands on its own, and it’s well worth spending the US$15 for dinner. This region also exhibits a distinct religious and cultural heritage, quite different from the rest of Myanmar, which conquered the Lanna Kingdom in 1558. In fact, Buddhism here is more heavily influenced by Tibetan traditions, rather than the Theravada style practiced in the rest of the country. A former stronghold of the Lanna
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
Just over the border, you’ll find yourself in Tachilek, a bustling town with a few hotels and restaurants, such as the clean and contemporary Bai Tong Hotel, which offers a noticeably delicious Thai-style menu (a meal here is a wise move for anyone planning to continue on another three hours to Kengtung). Twenty years ago, it took one week to get from Tachilek to Kengtung, and ten days in the rainy season. Poor road conditions and antique cars, not to mention a despotic government that had closed its doors, meant that for most of the 20th century traveling in the Eastern Shan State was not the easiest of endeavours. Today, however, bangkok101.com
OPTION 1: Foreigners are allowed to enter the Shan State for 13 days from Mae Sai without a prearranged visa. You need to secure an official guide, as well as official hotel-sponsored transport, all of which can be arranged through your hotel, or at the border. You also must leave your passport at the border, and collect it upon your return—perhaps not the most stress-free choice, but it works. OPTION 2: Apply online in advance for an eVisa, which costs US$50 for most foreigners, and allows you to travel anywhere in the country, and leave from any border. With an eVisa, it’s possible to take one of the two buses from Tachilek to Kengtung, which run at 8:30am and 11:30am. Be aware that motorbikes require special paperwork, camping throughout Myanmar is still a major no-go, and staying in villages is off-limits, as the government restricts travelers to using only approved hotels.
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TRAVEL | over the border
Kingdom, Kengtung was founded by the son of the famous King Mengrai, yet it has a vastly different flavour than its former sister cities of Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai. Going way back it was simply a village occupied by the Shan people, and before them, the Wa tribe (who still live in the surrounding hills). The cultural heart of Kengtung—like anywhere still remote enough to avoid the amoeba-like encroachment of shopping malls—lives in the town market. I spent a morning wandering around this labyrinth of ramshackle stalls, absorbing the friendly buzz of local life as smoke billowed from countless cook fires blazing beneath cauldrons of Shan-style noodle soup. Ahka women from the surrounding hills, still wearing their traditional beaded and silver headdresses, bring in their crops to sell and trade for other staples they can carry back up to their villages. Vendors selling everything from pottery and clothing, to 60 | J U N E 2017
herbs and gunpowder, line the narrow market walkways. Emanating from every corner is the smell of curing fish, dried meats, chili peppers, and onions. It’s a totally different sensory experience then your usual Thai market. After an hour or so I ducked into an open-air teahouse offering two kinds of tea—one a sweet, creamy black, reminiscent of ‘Thai tea’, and the second an unsweetened brew of locally grown and picked leaves which tasted fresher and cleaner. A nearby wood-fired oven cranked out freshly baked flat bread (similar to Indian naan), and a delicious, savoury onion-fava bean dip. Considering it takes a three-hour drive up the mountains to arrive at Kengtung, it’s no surprise that it still largely exists in isolation, especially compared to the well-trodden streets of the cities and towns of nearby Thailand. With less than 5,000 tourists visiting here per year, this genuine sense of remoteness— the internet came here less than 10 years ago—is what gives the Eastern Shan State its charm. In short, this is not your average backpacker destination.
With the goal of promoting tourism between Northern Thailand and Shan State in Myanmar, this trip was organized by Jaffee Yee, Chairman of the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) Chiang Rai chapter, and fully hosted by Amazing Hotels Group, Myanmar. To enquire about travel with PATA, please call 081 922 9063. www.pata-chiangrai.org bangkok101.com
over the border | TRAVEL
TRAVELLING FURTHER AFIELD Among other things, the Golden Triangle is known for its diversity of indigenous Asian cultures, most of which are referred to as Hill Tribes. Originating from regions of Southern China and Tibet, many of these tribes have migrated across multiple borders, fleeing wars, political changes, or simply being pushed off their land by an unsympathetic majority. Their history remains largely unacknowledged by the international community, making them, essentially, refugees. A few hours drive outside Kengtung, through endless fields and up some seriously rugged roads, I went to visit several of these indigenous villages to experience first hand what their life is like. The road we were on quickly transformed into jagged and bumpy dirt tracks as we cut across rice paddies, veering directly away from the main road. Crashing through a grove of bamboo, I began to spot hand-made carts, donkeys, and idle children watching our vehicle— telltale signs that we had entered village territory. The Akha and Lisu live in more lowland villages, like the one we were driving through, and have started offering their vibrant textiles and weavings to the few travellers who venture here. Smiling Akha women joke with me in their own language while I look at their impressive trinkets and weavings. We don’t share a word in common, yet smile and laugh with each other nonetheless. Hill tribe peoples are traditionally Animist, a nature-based religion that believes heavily in spirits, offerings, ceremonies, and other shamanic practices common to many indigenous cultures across the world. Yet Christian missionaries concentrated their efforts among many of these impoverished peoples, and it’s not uncommon to hear distant hymns resonating out of small village churches. Most of them are now some denomination of Christianity, though their Animist worldview is never far away. In fact, my guide, Francis Sai Twe—who is able to speak English, Burmese, Akha, Lahu, and Shan—was raised in a Catholic seminary. Further up, on top of the steep, mountain slopes more befitting the Quechua of Peru, live the Eng tribe. A subgroup of the highly independent Wa, the Eng are most notable for their tradition of headhunting, which they practiced as recently as the 1960s. Neither Buddhist nor Christian, they are one of the few hill tribes to still fully practice their traditional Animist religion. With their black, betel nut-stained teeth, and embroidered black robes, the Eng are perhaps the most traditional, and therefore most impoverished hill tribes in this region (also being relegated to the most difficult plots of land). It’s a small wonder that their cousins, the Wa, are still engaged in an armed struggle near the Chinese border—a region the government still considers a restricted “black zone.” While I visited these remote villages in the back of a truck, Francis recommended arranging a trek. “You
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really get the experience the culture and the nature in a much more authentic way,” he pointed out. However, the government prohibits foreigners from staying overnight in villages, which means you have to drive all the way back to Kengtung at the end of each day. Yet for those who like being on their feet and exploring the natural world, a trek in these pristine mountains is an experience of a lifetime. One of the many highlights that cannot be ignored about Myanmar is its delicious and unique food. Its unofficial “national dish”, a fermented tealeaf salad known locally as Lap Pet Toke, is a savoury blast of garlicky-salty tang that is rapidly gaining devotees around the world (myself included). In addition, varieties of cured meats and local sausages are common, along with regional curries and soups. Shan-style rice cakes are also a regional staple, along with garlic-infused bean and vegetable dishes that are resemble some uncanny cross between Indian and Italian cuisine. With a heavy reliance on onions, garlic, cumin, and chili, Burmese food satisfies a part of me that the spicysweet flavours of Thai cooking miss altogether. After spending less a week exploring only a small slice of this diverse country, Burmese cuisine has quickly become something I crave—especially that tealeaf salad, a Shan regional specialty. Fought over by warring kingdoms and political factions, populated by countless ethnicities, and the former world capitol of opium production, the Eastern Shan state is perhaps one of the most diverse areas in all of Southeast Asia. Yet the riches of the Golden Triangle are no longer held in fields of poppies or in the hands of regional warlords turned narcotics traders. The true richness of this place lives in its fertile hills and unspoiled valleys, with its friendly people and its vivid tapestry of cultures. Myanmar, and especially the Eastern Shan State, is no stranger to conflicts. Yet somehow this place still exists in relative harmony, finding balance amidst the political chaos of its many divides, both political and cultural. “Pu crit mu nat,” Francis tells me, is how the people here view themselves. “Buddhist, Christian, Muslim, Animist—all people together. That is how we are.”
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TRAVEL | golden triangle visitors guide
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MYANMAR
10
2
LAOS 2
1 9
3
4 7
HOTELS 1 Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort 2 Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle 3 Katiliya Mountain Resort & Spa 4 Doi Tung Lodge
1
ATTRACTIONS 1 Sop Ruak 2 Doi Tung 3 Hall of Opium 4 Mae Fah Luang Botanical Garden 5 Wat Rong Khun 6 Baan Dam 7 Choui Fong Tea Plantation 8 Singha Park 9 Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation 10 Oub Kham Museum 11 Tachilek 12 Phayao Town 13 Kwan Phayao 14 Mae Kha Chiang 15 King Ngam Muang Memorial 16 Doi Luang National Park 17 Champa Thong Waterfall 18 Phu Sang Stupa 19 Pang Kha Royal Project Centre 20 Elephant Valley
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THAILAND 6 Chiang Rai 20 8
5
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GUIDE TO THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE
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Phayao 15
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GUIDE TO CHIANG RAI CITY
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4
eW
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Soi 1
d mR
3
2 7
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Khu
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1
Boo
Thanon Baanpa Pragarn Rd
2 1
Pao
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6 Thanalai Rd
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Nh
Jetyod Rd
2
Singhacl
Rattanakheat Rd
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Sanambin Rd
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ly ho
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HOTELS 1 Dusit Island Resort Chiang Rai 2 The Mantrini 3 Le Méridien Chiang Rai Resort 4 Red Rose Hotel 5 The Legend Chiang Rai ATTRACTIONS 1 Chiang Rai Night Bazaar 2 Golden Clock Tower 3 Wat Klang Wiang 4 Wat Phra Singh 5 Wat Phra Kaew 6 Hilltribe Museum 7 King Mengrai Monument RESTAURANTS 1 The Roast 2 Cabbages & Condoms 3 Tong Tung 4 Chivit Thamma Da SHOPS 1 Fat Free Bike Rental OFFMAP Moom Mai Restaurant Art Bridge Gallery
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388/1 Moo.3, Tambol Pha Sang, Mea Chan, Chiang Rai THAILAND T: +66 53 603000 F: +66 53 603001 E: info@katiliya.com www.katiliya.com
TRAVEL | upcountry now
INTHAKIN CITY PILLAR FESTIVAL June 1-7
Head to Chiang Mai for Inthakin, also known as Sai Khan Dok (or “worship of the city pillar”). This is a very large celebration in which the city’s citizenry make flower offerings to the pillar, but there’s also dancing, musical performances, carnival games, and plenty of street food for sale. The festival begins with a procession around the old town. A Buddha image called Phra Fon Saen Haa (Five Hundred Thousand Raindrop Buddha) is carried, blessed with water, and placed in the courtyard of Wat Chedi Luang. After this the devotees place flowers, candles, and incense in each of the 28 bowls laid out on mats.
AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS FAIR June 2-11
The Prachin Buri Agricultural Products Fair is a traditional Thai agricultural showcase where local farmers have the opportunity to show off their best produce—including fruits, vegetables, plants, and all manner of agricultural items. The 10 days of festivities encompasses all sorts of activities, from contests for “best in category”, to the obligatory beauty contest, and an agricultural vehicle parade. Alongside the army of people selling locally grown and handmade products, there will also be farming demonstrations, and performances by local traditional dancers and musicians.
SAMED IN LOVE June 3
The 8th annual Samed in Love Music Festival will once again be held on the powdery stretch of white known as Sai Kaew Beach, on the beautiful getaway island known as Koh Samed. This year the theme is ‘Luv Us Luv Earth’, and organizers are calling all music lovers to come and chill out and have fun watching performances by popular Thai musical acts including Scrubb, Tattoo Colour, Somkiat, Paradox, Slot Machine, Joey Boy, and quite a few more. Earlybird tickets are B1,200 and are available for purchase at: www.thaiticketmajor.com.
LAGUNA PHUKET MARATHON June 4
The Laguna Phuket International Marathon, hosted and presented by the Laguna Beach Resort, is a race in which anyone can participate. It includes a full marathon (42 km), half marathon (21 km), fun run (10.5 km), community walk (5 km), and kids’ run (2 km). The topography of Phuket provides participants with the challenge of running flat plains and rolling hills and, at the same time, runners can enjoy the beautiful scenery as the courses take in villages, rubber plantations, and beaches. There’s also a ‘Pasta Party’ the evening before the event where runners can stock up on much needed carbs. 6 4 | J U N E 2017
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ART
| ART & CULTURE
Lady and Chandelier Representations of the strong woman who will make any man bow to her
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his exhibition, by artist BOONHLUE YANGSAUY, presents the viewer with (in the artist’s own words): “A reflection of the woman who is always ready to turn into a demon. They may look soft and fragile on the outside, but they are strong inside. They know what is worth fighting for, and are not afraid of the danger. They are the representations of the kind of strong woman that will make any man bow to her. All the angels in disguise that are still very patient and strong-minded—even though they are faced with a number of cruel challenges, and are fighting it with their women’s artifice. They run the risk of being the prey of the predators that are willing to take advantage of them.” All of this is the sad truth of the human society that the artist Boonhlue perceives. The artwork itself has many emotions in it, exemplifying both the beauty and the torture of those angels who interestingly convince us to think about the life and thoughts inside people of every gender—not just women. Symbolic elements are used to further express the stories, illustrating women’s actions over many eras. Boonhlue Yangsauy graduated with a Master’s in Fine and Applied Arts from Silpakorn University. This exhibition is his third, and there can be no doubt the artist’s strong passion and motivation will propel him far in his artistic career. By using his professional painting techniques, the artist creates artwork that looks amazingly lively and eye-catching. This is universal artwork, and will intrigue both local and international admirers.
LADY AND CHANDELIER runs until JUNE 24 at the NUMBER 1 GALLERY (19, Silom Soi 21). Viewing hours are Monday to Saturday, from 11am to 7pm. For more information, call 083 445 8333. www.number1gallery.com
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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions
JUNE 9-JULY 29 Remembrance of The King Kalwit Studio & Gallery
119/14 Soi Ruam Ruedi, Wireless Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 254 4629 | www.kalwitgallery.com
This exhibition by Kraisak Chirachaisakul is meant to pay tribute to His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej. For this show the artist has created every piece on display in an effort to convey memorable stories and moments of bliss that Thai people share over their beloved King. The artist's sophisticated drypoint technique, which overlays four shades of colour with four printed patterns, maximizes the use of vibrant paint and detail. A wide variety of colours are incised one by one onto the surface, which can be likened to the magnitude of love and respect that the Thai population have toward their late monarch.
JUNE 7-29 Strive to Fail
The National Gallery Bangkok 4 Chao Fa Rd. Viewing hours: Wed-Sun, 9am-4pm Tel: 02 281 2224 | www.facebook.com
This solo exhibition by Vichaya Mukdamanee aims to explore “failure” as an intellectual resource to generate an unending process of questioning that keeps the artist active, and provides lively engagement with the process of creativity. Using different media, such as video, painting, sculpture, and installation, the artist reflects on his selflearning journey. One artwork gives inspiration and lays the foundation for another. But the end of the project is not the end of the journey. It’s another turning point where the artist learns and moves into the future. It’s evidence of how failure operates as a life learning experience.
JUNE 29-AUGUST 12 Stitch Up
Yenakart Villa 69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akat Rd. Viewing hours: Wed-Fri, 2pm-7pm, Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 081 902 9196 | www.yenakartvilla.com
We all get stitched up one way or another… tricked, deceived, or fooled in a life that is full of illusions. Artist Patipat Chaiwitesh’s transformation of found objects—by weaving, pinching, stuffing and sewing—betrays an ongoing fascination with the many ways in which our culture conditions everything into some kind of alleged false identity. Informed by a dialectic of opposites, nature and culture, instinct and reason, innocence and corruption, Patipat’s beguiling artworks become the evidence in an open-ended investigation, resulting in a show trial to which you are invited to be the judge. 68 | J U N E 2017
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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE
UNTIL JUNE 20 World History
Tang Contemporary Art 3F, The Golden Place Plaza, Rajadamri Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 652 2732 | www.tangcontemporary.com
The exhibition brings together artworks of eight emerging Chinese artists, namely Guo Hongwei, Wen Yipei, Jiang Pengyi, Shen Han, Guan Jun, Xu Qu, Hu Weiyi, and Wang Mai. The artists’ mediums range from oil painting and photography, to installation and video. As the title suggests, the subject here is the history of the world, but it is not a direct discussion of “world history”. Instead it is an attempt to weave a visual scene full of implications from four conceptual perspectives. Through the intertextual relationships between the artworks, a historical, silhouetted relationship between capitalism and cosmopolitanism is revealed.
UNTIL SEPTEMBER 15 Masters of Photography House of Lucie
17/1, Ekkamai Soi 8 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Tel: 095 478 9987 | www.facebook.com/houseoflucie
This group exhibition, which showcases over 130 extraordinary works by Lucie Awards Honorees, includes such photography luminaries as Annie Leibovitz, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Elliott Erwitt, and Robert Capa (to name just a few). The exhibition features both original prints and published photographs. As a center for photography, House of Lucie not only aims to promote international photography to the widest audiences possible, but also to allow young photographers to be inspired by the works of these masters—all of which hopefully will provide insight and cultural cues, and illustrate dedication to the art of photography.
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ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight
Red Cross Snake Farm By Luc Citrinot
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he Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute (1871 Rama 4 Rd) was opened in 1913. At that time, Bangkok was plagued by various diseases, including rabies. The daughter of Prince Daron had died from rabies infection and following the Prince's request, King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) granted permission to build a government institution with a research centre to study venomous snakes and find the necessary vaccines against rabies. The centre became, in 1917, the Pasteur Institute with the Thai Red Cross Society taking over the administrative duties of the centre. Over the years, vaccines were developed against rabies and smallpox. Following the death of Queen Saovabha, in 1920, the King decided to build a permanent building in her memory to be used for research in medical science. The structure, built in French Beaux Arts style, opened in 1923, integrating a Snake Farm—which was created to allow the institute to develop antidotes manufactured from snake venom. The farm was filled with some 35 specimens of venomous snake and was, at time of opening, one of only two such facilities in the world. In immaculate vivariums, visitors to the farm nowadays are able to discover more about these snakes and learn, in a very informative and entertaining way, which snakes are truly dangerous (fact is, few snakes genuinely pose a threat to human life). The most impressive specimen is the King Cobra, which can grow to over five meters in length (although the average length is four). The Siamese Cobra can reach a length of almost two meters, and bears distinctive markings on
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the back of its hood (neck). Around the same size is the Banded Krait, easily identified by its body of black and yellow stripes. Its “cousin” is the slightly smaller Malayan Krait, with stripes of black and white. Meanwhile, the four species of viper include the White-lipped Pit Viper, with its green colour and yellow eyes, and the bluish-green Big-eyed Pit Viper. Every day at the farm, two performances are staged for visitors. Weekdays, at 11 am, you can see how scientists extract venom out of the snakes, while at 2:30pm there is on an open-air stage snake-handling show, with the possibility for audience members to take a picture with a tame snake. On weekends the snake handling is at 11 am. Next to the Snake Farm, a Snake Museum has been installed in the new Simaseng building. Opened in 2008, the five-storey facility boasts an exhibition area for 35 species of living snakes, and a 100-seat auditorium for venom extraction presentations. Visitors can learn about the anatomy and life-cycle of these slithery serpents, as well as related fields of toxicology and snake bite first-aid. Surprisingly, the Snake Farm is a very popular tourist attraction. According to the Thai Red Cross, the museum and farm attract each year over 40,000 tourists, with 60 percent coming from overseas. NOTE: The Snake Farm and Snake Museum are open from 8:30am to 3:30pm weekdays, and till 1pm on weekends. Entrance fee for adults is B200 (children B50). The closest MRT station is Sam Yan, while the closest BTS station is Sala Daeng. www.saovabha.com bangkok101.com
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ART & CULTURE | cinema scope
Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott
Blood of My Blood
Trishna
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Villa Touma
Jan Dara
he big news for film fans this month is the River City Bangkok Film Club screenings of eight awardwinning films by eight top directors. The screenings take place over consecutive weekends during the month of June, and all get underway at 4pm sharp. The not-to-be-missed opening film, on Saturday, June 3rd, will be Blood of My Blood (2011), from Portugal. Directed by Joao Canijo, it’s an intimate and moving domestic drama that offers an intimate, inside portrait of Portuguese society, with some splendid individual performances. Another highlight is Villa Touma (2014), a rare cinematic offering from Palestine, directed by Suha Araf—screening Sunday, June 4th—which tells the tale of three aristocratic Christian sisters in Ramallah who lead an isolated life—which is turned upside down when their young niece comes to live with them, and starts a secret affair with a Muslim activist. Other notable films in the series include: Trishna, from acclaimed UK director Michael Winterbottom (Saturday, June 10th); Jan Dara, a gorgeous-looking Thai film directed by Nonzee Nimibutr (Sunday, June 11th – includes after film Q&A); Down The River, a brilliant debut film directed 72 | J U N E 2017
Queen by Asif Rustamov from Azerbaijan (Saturday, June 17th); When Love Comes, a moving domestic drama from Taiwan by director Chang Tso-Chi (Sunday, June 18th); and Animal Town, part of a trilogy by Kyu-Hwan Jeon—one of Korea’s top contemporary film-makers—which created waves at many film festivals around the world (Saturday, June 24th). The closing film will be Queen, a 2013 entry from India, directed by Vikas Bahl. The film, which screens on Sunday, June 25th, features top Bollywood actress Kangana Ranaut, who won a National Award for this vibrant and vivacious film in which she plays a shy Indian bride who goes on a solo honeymoon to Paris. When her fiancé does not show up on their wedding day, she goes on to meet many unforgettable individuals, experiences various amazing adventures, and comes back to India a changed woman—which is when her fiancé suddenly re-appears! All films will be shown in Room 203 (2nd Floor) of River City Bangkok (Charoen Krung 24). For reservations call 02 237 0077-8 (ext. 622, 701), or email: anusorn@ rivercity.co.th, or rcbfilmclub@gmail.com. www.rivercity.com bangkok101.com
music makers | ART & CULTURE
Funk Soul Brothers The Lowdowns turn the heat way up By Rianka Mohan
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oul Bar (945 Charoen Krung Rd) on a Saturday evening is teeming with hipsters, and the promise of good music. The Lowdowns are onstage. They're a funk, soul, groove trio composed of: Kansas-born Michael Selby with leading-man looks on keyboard; Bangkok-bred Panapong ‘Top’ Permpoon with killer cool hair à la Slash on guitar; and Chicagoan Jake Crowl with his trademark beanie on drums. If you haven’t yet heard them play, they put on one helluva show! Funk as a genre originated in the US in the 1960s when African-American musicians experimented with a new rhythmic, danceable form through a mixture of soul, jazz, and rhythm and blues (R&B) music. Today, the term is so broadly applied, from The Drifters to Bruno Mars, that it’s harder to define. The Lowdowns might have roots in funk, but each band member has brought a different perspective, evident in their shows which feel contemporary even when they’re playing old favourites like Stevie Wonder’s “Superstition”. Jake hails from a rock/punk rock background, while Top brings a post-rock, electronica sensibility, and Michael grew up around R&B. The mix reminds me of an argument in the movie La La Land—should musicians stay true to tradition, or be blasphemous and modernize with newer sounds and techniques? The band hasn’t seen the film but they certainly have unambiguous views on the topic. As Jake says, “If you stick with the past, well, it already happened and was a reaction to something specific of that time. We can’t be the second coming of James Brown. We want to be the band that ten years from now, someone else is talking about as having brought something original to the scene.” bangkok101.com
“If you’re always trying to prove yourself worthy of a genre, you’re forgoing creativity,” adds Michael. “Songs happen organically not because you’re imitating a sound or staking a claim. We know each other well enough now to riff off each other’s rhythms in our shows. If one of us takes a solo, the others extemporize around it, which is a jazz approach. And the energy of the crowd definitely impacts the direction we take. We like to get people on their feet!” Top is similarly passionate about funk, which is decidedly different from what he plays with his other band, Cinematic, and he too likes to mix it up. The Lowdowns’ formation back in 2014 was itself an episode of improvisation. In Bangkok for a movie, Michael got himself an acoustic gig at a local bar and needed a band. He met Jake, who’d recently moved here to teach at Rockademy. Jake roped in Top, and they created an ad hoc group two days before the gig. Pressed for a name, they came up with The Lowdowns—a common term in funk music—but the name has caused some fans to wonder if they’re depressed. From the beginning, the band has been adamant that funk music could work in Thailand. And three years hence, having played over 200 gigs—most recently at this year's Wonderfruit Festival—their instincts are paying off. The band will have a new single out in the next few months, and also hope to play outside Thailand soon. Until then, you can catch them twice a month at Soul Bar and also check their Facebook page for upcoming events. www.facebook.com/thelowdowns.
GET DOWN ON IT! If you’re craving hip hop, then head over to ThaBeatlounge (RCA Bangkok) on June 10th and enjoy SuperFly BKK’s sweet homecoming party. Headed by DJ Rory Breaker-Morant it also features the live freestylin’ of an international crew of emcees, dubbed the SuperFly AllStars. They make no bones about their intent, which is to get you groovin’ unabashedly to their hip hop beats. No… scratch that, “the dopest, flyest, gangster-hustler” beats, as they put it themselves. Fancy yourself a rapper? Feel free to step into the cypher and go toe-to-toe on the mic with the AllStars. All in all, expect a fun night with good vibes and an energetic crew. www.facebook.com/superflybkk
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Art & Culture
Photo Feature
Liquid Bangkok Photos by Tim Pelling JUNE 3-24 SOY SAUCE FACTORY
11/1, Charoenkrung Soi 24
www.facebook.com/soysaucefactory
The exhibition Liquid Bangkok sets out to capture the beauty of a neglected world found along the khlongs of Bangkok, and in doing so also highlight the degraded state of this vast network of waterways that flow through and around the city. Photographer Tim Pelling grew up in the grasslands of Saskatchewan, in Canada, and graduated from the Emily Carr School University of Art and Design in Vancouver. He has been based in Asia for over 20 years, and travels the planet for a wide variety of clients—creating images for corporations, design firms, advertising agencies, and media producers. As the artist states: “The water that passes through Bangkok has mesmerized me since my early days in the city—in part because it is in such contrast to the prairies of my youth. In Bangkok, I often found myself drawn to the khlongs’ edges, seduced by the constantly changing light and shapes of the less than pristine tributaries. There is a distinct and unique energy to be found there for those who make the effort to search them out. At the same time, it is a difficult place that continually assaults the senses. “My images in this collection attempt to capture these opposing qualities by weaving the form of the water into the built environment that has grown around them. I don’t work with a preconceived plan, but make it more of a meditative journey. “Liquid Bangkok is the beginning of a wide-ranging water project using large format landscape images as the vehicle to communicate the message of ‘how we form water and how it forms us’. My roots are in documentary photography and this is my first exploration using a technical camera with a large sensor back, which is a slower method of working. This has changed the way I approach each subject; the slow set up creates more time for reflection, requiring me to fully commit to a given location. “My hope is that I have found an approach that defines these places with a measure of respect, without, however, glossing over the serious environmental problems that plague this world of water that is a stunning part of the Bangkok urban landscape.”
Royal oscietra caviar with green apple sorbet and oyster veloute, part of the innovative new tasting menu at Water Library Chamchuri Celebrating Bangkok’s street food in all its delicious glory! 80 | J U N E 2017
Photo by street food blogger Mark Wiens
FOOD & DRINK |
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| FOOD & DRINK
AROY street food celebration
Despite the fact that there appears to be a “war on street food”, with government decrees stating that many vendors are no longer allowed to operate in their familiar haunts in certain parts of the city, the TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) is nevertheless staging a street food festival this month. Entitled the AMAZING THAI TASTE FESTIVAL, the event is scheduled to take place from June 8th to 11th at the MAKKASAN AIRPORT RAIL LINK STATION (the intersection of Ratchadapisek Road and Petchaburi Road). For more on the city’s street food saga, see our special editorial on page 92.
guest chef series down south The Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef series, presented by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, heads to Phuket this month as Bangkok’s favourite Deutschland duo—the Sühring brothers, from the award-winning SÜHRING restaurant—take over kitchen duties at PRU, the farm-to-table restaurant at the luxurious TRISARA resort. On June 16th and 17th, the brothers will present diners with their modern German cuisine, and the price per person is B2,900++ (B3,900++ with specially selected German wines). For bookings, email pru@trisara.com, or call 07 631 0100. Guests are also welcome to stay for the weekend at Trisara, and can enjoy a special 40% discount on hotel suites and villas by using promotion code “SP40” when booking on www.trisara.com for stays between 16-19 June.
make room for michelin As reported earlier in the year, there will indeed be a MICHELIN GUIDE BANGKOK—released in a bilingual Thai and English edition—expected to be released by the end of 2017. While waiting for the infamous little red book to arrive, food fanatics can get a Michelin warm-up at the ISSAYA COOKING STUDIO, in CENTRAL EMBASSY, where Master Chef ALAIN PASSARD, from the Michelin-starred L’Arpege in Paris, will be in residence from June 14th to 17th. He’ll be conducting afternoon cooking classes, as well as preparing sumptuous chef table dinners (for reservations call 02 160 5636). Meanwhile, at MEI JIANG, in THE PENINSULA BANGKOK hotel, Chef GORDON LEUNG from the Michelin-starred Spring Moon Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong will be the guest chef from June 19th to 21st (for reservations call 02 020 2888).
new spin on an old favourite If it’s been a while since you last visited SPASSO, the long-running nightclub and restaurant on the lower level of the GRAND HYATT ERAWAN BANGKOK (494 Ratchadamri Rd), then let the arrival of their new Chef de Cuisine ROBERTO PARENTELA be your reason to make a return. Hailing from Torino, in Italy, this dynamic young chef has worked in notable Italian restaurants throughout Bangkok, under the Zanotti Co. Ltd. In his new post, his exceptional culinary skills are already contributing to extraordinary epicurean experiences, with musttry dishes such as Sardinia-style ravioli with lamb ragout filling, toasted fennel seeds, and a heavenly pecorino cream sauce, as well as his baked Sardinian suckling pig, served with potato, artichoke, and Cannonau wine gravy. And if you stick around till 10pm, Spasso’s Latin-tinged house band gets things going on the dance floor Monday through Saturday.
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FOOD & DRINK | meal deals
New Healthy & Wealthy Menu at Luce
Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok | 33/1, South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 210 8100 | www.eastingrandsathorn.com Until the end of June, health-conscious diners are invited to stay healthy and wealthy with an enticing new menu from Luce. Not only are these delicious dishes healthy, they’re packed with a wealth of flavours created by using special non-traditional preparation methods. Enjoy a variety of good-for-you delights, such as deep-fried egg yolk with sous-vide root vegetables and a light dill sauce (B260), and Atlantic salmon fillet with fresh baby fennel salad and salmon foam (B650). These healthy dishes are available every day at lunch, from noon to 2:30pm, and dinner, from 6pm to 10:30pm.
Gourmet Roasting Pleasure at Flavors
Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel | 518/8 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 125 5010 | www.renaissancebangkok.com Every evening from Sunday to Thursday, Flavors invites diners to satisfy their dinnertime cravings with a special selection of succulent meats and seafood produce—all cooked to perfection. Expect the best from the land, and the freshest from the sea, with menu highlights that include: delectable garlic and black-olive roasted lamb shoulder; tender and juicy Wagyu rump slow-roasted with garlic and rosemary; and flavourful stuffedpork loin roulade with ratatouille. The promotion is available for dinner (served from 6pm to 10:30pm) and is priced at B1,590++ per person.
Sumptuous Sunday Brunch at Atelier
Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit | 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4161 | www.pullmanbangkokgrandesukhumvit.com Make your weekend even better with Sunday brunch at Atelier, in the Pullman Bangkok Grand Sukhumvit hotel. Menu highlights include plenty of seafood on ice, such as king crab, snow crab, oyster, mussel, and shrimp, along with grilled seafood specialties like prawn and squid, premium grilled meats, and lamb. Also, diners can try the wide-ranging international buffet featuring a carving station, Chinese station, Indian curries, pasta with sauces, and more. Available every Sunday from noon to 3:30pm, the brunch is priced at B1,899++ per person (including free flow soft drinks).
Giant Tiger Prawns at Up & Above Restaurant
The Okura Prestige Bangkok | Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com A favourite among seafood lovers is the jumbo tiger prawn—known for their succulent, delicious flesh—and the chefs at Up & Above are ready to celebrate this giant of the crustacean world with a Giant Tiger Prawn promotion featuring Thai and international style preparations. The menu items range from tiger prawn salad with fennel, tomato, wasabi rocket and mango salsa, to green curry with tiger prawns. This promotion runs until the end of June, and is available from noon to 10:30pm. Prices start from B350++ for select à la carte dishes.
Authentic Comfort Food Menu at The House on Sathorn
W Bangkok Hotel | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4025 | www.thehouseonsathorn.com The Courtyard, also known as the heart of The House of Sathorn, welcomes a fresh new menu with all your favourite Thai comfort foods. It features a wide range of selections—from salads to sandwiches, as well as local Thai favorites such as slowcooked Massaman curry with Wagyu ribs, and crab curry with celery, eggs and onions. The set lunch menu is priced at B640++ for two courses, and B780++ for three courses (prices are per person) and is available every Monday to Friday from noon to 2:30pm. Enjoy authentic comfort food in the most comfortable surroundings imaginable.
Szechuan Delights at Oasis Restaurant in Pattaya
Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort, Pattaya | 277, Moo 5 Naklua Banglamung Tel: 038 714 981 | www.centarahotelsresorts.com The spicy, earthy, rich flavours of China’s Southwestern Szechuan province are now available at Oasis in the Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort Pattaya. Throughout the month of June, numerous Oriental delights will be on offer, including poached sliced beef served in a hot chili oil made from Chinese wine, dried red chili, garlic, and Szechuan pepper, and zesty Szechuan hot and sour soup. The prices start from just B220++ per dish. Oasis restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating, and is open daily from 6am to 11pm.
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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK
Loulou Forks & Glasses New “kid” on the block adds to Soi Suan Phlu’s gastro scene
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rendy Soi Suan Phlu recently welcomed a friendly newcomer into the bosom of its ever expanding fine dining scene. This new entry is, coincidentally, named after the newest entry to owner Marc Legault’s family—his infant daughter Loulou—which is how Loulou Forks & Glasses got its amusing moniker. Visitors to this stylish Gallicthemed wine bar and bistro will be instantly taken in by the restaurant’s casual chic charm. The seating— which can accommodate about 110 persons—offers diners indoor and outdoor options, however it’s hard not to be lured by the relaxing open-air back garden, where the city’s noise mercifully vanishes. Chef Xavier Fauvel, hailing from Nice, in France, has created a succinct, yet deliciously varied menu, but gives diners even more choice with a constantly changing selection of daily specials—all of which are based on what’s fresh at the market that particular morning. Oysters are bound to be on the list most days—B390 for six Fine de Cancale No.4, the night we visited—but if the Ravioli ricotta et coppa with pumpkin cream (B480) bangkok101.com
makes an appearance, be sure to sample this superb savoury selection. From the main menu a nice dish to share is the Mixed selection of cold cuts and cheeses (B550), in which small mountains of thinly sliced Parma ham, Italian Coppa and tender Parisian ham arrive alongside a selection of hard-to-pronounce but easy-to-eat gourmet cheeses (a few of which come direct from local fine food supplier Vivin). The menu also strays from predictability by offering inventive dishes such as the Poireaux vinaigrette façon “Loulou” (B290), in which blanched leek is cut into thin strips and served with greens, dried fruits, and a zesty mustard sauce, or the Quinoa and pomelo salad (B320), which is served with fresh herbs, lemon olive oil, and fried tofu. Meanwhile the artfully displayed Tartine de chèvre chaud (B350) combines roasted goat cheese on toast with mango slices, grapes, thyme, and honey. You won’t see items like these on too many menus. We wound things down with another excellent dish for sharing, the Gravlax salmon (B380) served with a homemade wasabi and
lemon cream. This beautifully cured, melt-on-your-tongue salmon is also seasoned with Chef Xavier’s amazing five spice medley—an almost citruslike blend of exotic freshly-ground Middle Eastern and Southeast Asian spices. Afterwards, dessert arrived in the form of a Moelleux au chocolat (B250), which is essentially the newest contender for best chocolate lava cake in town. It’s also worth noting that the wine menu here is very good and very affordable. The 2015 Rosé Gris Blanc Gerard Betrand (B200/B990) in particular stood out, as it is more like a dry white than a traditional rosé—it’s not even pink—but goes splendidly with many of the starters. Another notable potable among the reds is the 2015 Belleruche Côtes-duRhône M. Chapoutier (B260/B1,500), an excellent, easy drinking meal accompaniment. by Bruce Scott
Loulou Forks & Glasses 459/61, Suan Phlu Soi 8 Open daily: 5pm-1am Tel: 083 041 4351 www.louloubangkok.com
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FOOD & DRINK | special report
World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards In Melbourne, global chefs gather for an awards ceremony that’s fast becoming the Oscars of gastronomy Words by Joe Cummings/CPA Media Photos courtesy of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017 presented by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna
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don’t think of it as a competition,” says Yannick Alléno, dubbed ‘prince of the palaces’ by the press for his uncontested leadership in contemporary French haute cuisine. “For me, the [World’s 50 Best Restaurants] list demonstrates a global perspective on cuisine, how the whole world is open and interested in what’s going on outside their own cuisines. It drives chefs to do the best they can with their own terroir. You’re competing with yourself, ultimately.” Alléno is one of a handful of elite chefs I interview while attending the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017 list announcement and awards ceremony, held for the first time this year in Melbourne. After 14 years in London, the World’s 50 Best is now on what
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the organizers call a “global tour” that started last year with a move from London to New York. Tourism Australia and Visit Victoria spare virtually no expense in hosting the event, providing flights and lodging for 47 of the 50 main awardees who have accepted invitations to attend. Local bars, bistros, and restaurants pitch in to host chef pop-ups and after-parties, not to mention the after-after parties. Billed by some media as the Olympics of food, an arena where global gastronomy gods battle to see who dons the No. 1 crown, the event is better compared to Oscars night. As with the Academy Awards, industry members gather to congratulate themselves on their shared artistry, and to recognize their peers—both veterans and up-and-comers—with awards.
The list kicked off in 2002 as a one-off stunt for Restaurant magazine, whose London staff came up with the idea while drinking at the Shaston Arms in Carnaby Street. The World’s 50 Best list—abbreviated by insiders to W50B nowadays—proved to be more popular than expected, and has since grown to become a major event in the culinary world. For William Reed Business Media, owners of Restaurant and other food industry mags such as British Baker and Meat Trades Journal, the awards list and regional variations, such as Asia’s 50 Best and Latin America’s 50 Best, are now a substantial part of their business operations. The top 50 restaurants list, as well as associated awards for best female chef, highest list climber, and bangkok101.com
special report | FOOD & DRINK so on, is decided each year by votes cast by more than 1,000 members of an international academy. This elite voting group is comprised of chefs/restaurateurs (34 percent), food writers (33 percent), and welltraveled gourmets and influencers (33 percent). Each member submits 10 restaurant choices, four of which need to be from outside their own region. Restaurant visits must be anonymous, and take place no more than 18 months prior to voting. I attended the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards events for 2016 and 2017—both held with lavish attention to detail at the W Bangkok— but I’m not quite prepared for the scale of the global counterpart in Melbourne. As I stroll the long, sweeping red carpet lined with champagnepouring servers and enter the World Heritage Site-listed 1880 Royal Exhibition Building for the awards ceremony, I’m briefly stunned. Practically every sculpted nook of the structure’s massive dome, elegantly modeled after that of the famed Florence Cathedral, is illuminated by sophisticated, multi-coloured lighting set-ups. Not even Oscars night in Hollywood compares, visually. Pop-up lounge bars in the center of the hall are thronging with foodworld glitterati, and while making the rounds between Ferrari Trento DOC champagne, top Aussie reds, and hand-crafted gin, I bump into a few folks from Bangkok. David Thompson, chef/owner of Bangkok’s own Nahm, cuts a striking figure in a brocade jacket, while Sid Sehgal, owner of Indus and other restaurants in our capital, sports a 007-inspired tux. Mason Florence, owner and editorial director of this magazine moves through the crowd like a hip college professor. Or judging by the number of elite chefs who greet him with great enthusiasm, like a rockstar. Mason’s fame in this circle arises from his function as the academy chair for Southeast Asia, but it’s easy to see that he’s equally at home among chefs from Slovenia, Spain, France, Japan, and more. As the well-dressed audience settles into seats facing a formal stage and massive LCD monitor, British TV presenter Mark Durden-Smith opens the show with a vivacity and sharp bangkok101.com
humour that sets the tone for the awards countdown. Durden-Smith calls one William Reed suit who presents an award a “bit of executive crumpet”, and jokes about a Belgian restaurant where the knives are made of walrus penis bones, “where you’re advised to eat slowly so the knives don’t get too excited”. Announcing each restaurant on the top 50 list, starting at the bottom and moving towards number one, along with the handing out of separate awards for individual chefs, takes well over an hour. Durden-Smith’s brisk, cutting pace, along with the chefs’ natural bonhomie, means it’s anything but boring, especially when almost everyone in the hall has downed a few glasses of champagne in advance. Bangkok nails two spots in the coveted World’s Top 50, starting with Nahm at 28 and Gaggan at 7. Because Gaggan also hit number one on Asia’s Top 50 (for the third year in a row), it earns the Best Restaurant in Asia 2017 award, which means chef owner Gaggan Anand is soon climbing onto the stage to receive his plexiglass trophy and pose for photos. Over the course of the evening, France, Spain, and the USA each score six restaurants on the 2017 list. New York City’s Eleven Madison Park claims the top spot this year, making it the first US restaurant to do so since the French Laundry in 2004. Nine new restaurants appear in the top 50 this year, much to the delight of their cheering teams in the audience. Only six of these are making their list debut, while three return as re-entries. Highest Climber Award 2017 goes to New York State’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns, which skipped ahead 37 places to settle at No. 11. I had a successful interview with Blue Hill’s extremely articulate executive chef Dan Barber the previous day, so I put in an extra cheer for him as he mounts the stage. Yannick Alléno’s Pavillon Ledoyen earns Highest New Entry Award 2017 for its debut at No. 37. France does well this year, doubling its presence on the list from three to six restaurants. Half of these make the list’s top 20, no mean feat. The post-ceremony parties pass by in a hangover-inducing blur. One party debate topic that pops up frequently is how the World’s 50 Best
Gaggan Anand, left Restaurants stacks up against the Michelin guidebook series’ venerable star system, as a judgement of culinary value. Whatever you think about the relative merits of each— and of course they’re apples and oranges, in the end—the 50 Best lists are much more globally accessible and thus more influential from a marketing perspective. The night Noma hit No. 1 in 2010, over 100,000 people tried to book a table. This kind of attention can enrich restaurant owners but, as with Michelin stars, it also dumps a considerable amount of pressure on a chef’s back. During my interview with Gaggan Anand, the visionary Kolkata-born chef behind Gaggan, he talks about some of the negatives of being No. 1 on Asia’s 50 Best. “I wanted to be at the Coldplay concert tonight in Bangkok,” says the bearded rock fan, “But I had to be here. I don’t have a personal life anymore.” Anand has famously stated that he will close his Bangkok flagship in 2020, and here he reaffirms the promise. “My expiry date is being reached. I’m like an opened bottle of soda… I’m steadily losing the fizz.” As for what he’ll do after that, Anand says “I’d like to become a monk, but I have a wife and children. So instead I’ll be a food monk, going back to myself as a cook, not as a celebrity. I’ll move to Japan, where I’m not so well known. They have really good ingredients there, and some brilliant chefs who I’d like to work with.” Next year the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list announcement and awards ceremony will be held in Bilbao, Spain. Nos vemos allá! J U N E 2017 | 85
FOOD & DRINK | review
Utage
Atarachi feast reinvents the Sunday brunch
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unday brunches generally tend to mimic one another, especially in this city’s five star hotels. Yet Utage, at the Plaza Athenee Bangkok, has created a one-of-a-kind experience you don’t want to miss. Their ‘Atarachi’ brunch—this Japanese word literally translates to “new” or “fresh”—is a revelation, it highlights all the best Japanese delicacies you could possibly desire, including starters, sushi, sashimi, noodles, teppanyaki, sukiyaki, tempura and stir-fried rice. It is allyou-can-eat for an all-inclusive price of B3,000++ per person, including one lobster cooked to order, dessert, and non-alcoholic beverages (every Sunday from 11:30am till 2:30pm). This brunch was originally conceived to be served without a menu, and each guest is treated to several individually prepared selections of dishes in each category. Currently, they have a menu you can peruse and let the staff know what you prefer to try and what you may want to avoid on your culinary journey. The staff is incredibly knowledgeable and 86 | J U N E 2017
proficient, and the interior’s clean and modern design aesthetics harken to the elementary forces of nature—with wood, steel, stone, and water coloured glass all evoking an undeniable sense of minimalist charm and appeal. Since this is an à la carte buffet you can order as much as you like, but you will want to be sure to pace yourself. The avocado salad and the flavoursome fried gyoza are a nice way to get started. Follow that up with a combination of niri sushi, scorched nigiri sushi, and maki rolls. Other highlights include the foie gras sushi, the Wagyu sushi, and the dragon roll with spicy tuna. They also have some fusion sushi such as Tom Yum and Massaman curry flavours that are worth trying, as well as the traditional sashimi set with prawn, clam, tuna, and salmon—which is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. The teppanyaki is excellent, with the grilled prawns, foie gras, and salmon being the most memorable, and the light and crispy tempura tiger prawns are perhaps some of the best you will find with the freshness
and quality of the shrimp apparent from the first bite. The Shabu Shabu is another satisfying dish, with its delicate and tender Wagyu beef, and delightful seafood broth and fresh vegetables. But the main attraction is, for many, the whole lobster, and you can choose to have it sashimi or teppanyaki style. I opted for the latter and was not disappointed. The sweet, succulent meat is char-grilled to perfection and served tableside on a sizzling plate, while the claw meat is served in a seductive miso soup. End your meal with a scoop of both their Matcha green tea and red bean ice cream. Utage is heads and tails above your average hotel buffet, and the focus on fresh, high quality Japanese fare makes it truly unforgettable. by Melissa Richter
Utage
Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 650 8800 www.plazaatheneebangkok.com bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Wild & Co.
An exotic meat menagerie arrives in Bangkok
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rguably the most unique restaurant to open so far in 2017, Wild & Co., takes the Thai taste for “forest food” (aahaan paa) and fuses it with the Western yen for grilled meats. In this case the meats happen to be wild or farmed game, for the most part. Tucked away down Soi Farm Wattana, off Rama IV Road near the Kluay Nam Thai intersection in south Klong Toey, the location will be familiar to regulars at Stu-Fe, a bar-café run by Thai band Monotone in the same 70s-era compound as their music studio. The studio is still there, now run by one of Wild & Co.’s musician partners. The rest of the compound has been substantially upgraded. bangkok101.com
“When my partner and I found this spot, we wanted to do something different,” says owner Pete Tanawatana. “We wanted to preserve the trees and garden that were already here, and that inspired us to think about a jungle theme.” With a local architect, they designed a stunning glass-walled dining room which afford views of the greenery outside. Pete’s experiences traveling in South Africa and enjoying such exotic meats as kudu and springbok—both antelopes native to Africa—inspired him to serve game to complement the jungle theme. Restaurant consultant Chatphon Thavornvanit created the menu and outfitted the kitchen areas. A big,
black, hickory-fuelled smoker grill he had custom-built for the restaurant is the open kitchen’s hallmark. We start with Quail salad (B390), a light combination of seared local quail, poached quail eggs, organic daily greens, and balsamic/berry dressing, which turns out to be one of the most memorable dishes of the night. Next up was the Rabbit Roll (B690), baked French rabbit wrapped in bacon and stuffed with kidney and liver. This meat-lover’s dream came with organic fresh greens, green peas, and rabbit jus. The house smoker flexed its muscles on a mighty portion of Beef ribs (B2,990) which had been rubbed with sea salt and basted with apple juice every half hour while slowly searing in hickory smoke for eight hours. The tender rib meat, which hails from the Northeastern province of Sakon Nakhon, was served with stellar homemade pickles and cole slaw. Meanwhile, a wine list and full bar ensures everyone stays well lubricated while chowing down on exotics. Like its predecessor Stu-Fe, Pete and his partners are serious music fans, so over half the compound is given over to a brick-walled pub called Black Cabin. The lineup eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists. Occasional special gigs by touring bands are scheduled, while regular local performers include The Jukes (Tuesdays), Supergoods (Wednesdays), Stoic (Thursdays), Nerd Alert (Fridays), Assemble Zui (Saturdays), and Motherfunky (Sundays). by Joe Cummings/CPA Media
Wild & Company
33/1 Soi Farm Wattana, Phra Khanong Open daily: 5:30pm-1am Tel: 061 515 6989 www.wildnco.com J U N E 2017 | 87
FOOD & DRINK | review
Dining by Design
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Intimate culinary experience at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel
irthday, anniversary, or “just because”, sometimes date night requires an extra helping of romance. So when dinner for two in a crowded restaurant just won’t do, turn to Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, which is home to an intimate culinary experience carefully curated by the property’s bevy of fine restaurants. Set in the hotel’s lush gardens, Dining by Design offers an exquisitely private meal (48 hours advance notice required). Against a backdrop of carefully manicured gardens, surrounded by twinkling candles and beneath layers of soft white canopy, you’ll feel a world away from the city (just a few feet beyond). Even the service feels uncrowded, with guests waited on by their own private butler, at a far enough distance to give a sense of intimacy, but always on hand when needed. I recently had the pleasure of enjoying the Anantara’s private dining concept with my husband, and the evening began with Sributr, our professional server, leading us to our poolside table (though normally positioned in the gardens, an earlier downpour had left the area waterlogged, but this quiet spot would do just nicely, particularly as the night fell around us). Sributr talked us through the menu—an extensive choice of plates showcasing the best from each of the hotel’s fine restaurants. To begin, we were treated to a trio of canapés from the central kitchen—small bites filled with flavour and perfectly whetting our appetite for what lay ahead. Shintaro, the hotel’s casual Japanese eatery, delivered a light toto tartare served with salmon caviar. The delicate, melt-in-the-mouth tuna bites provided the perfect bridge to the slightly heavier next course—a visit to the contemporary Italian restaurant, Biscotti. Their homemade ravioli, filled with moreish ossobuco and drizzled in a black truffle sauce, ended up being my favourite part of the meal. 88 | J U N E 2017
Wrapped in fine pasta pillows, the tender veal filling was a comforting delight, infused with rosemary flavours and accentuated by a sharp fruit sauce. What followed next was a selection of Thai dishes from Spice Market, including an impressive grilled beef salad with sharp citrus notes, and fried river prawn in a tamarind sauce. At the end of our savoury journey we dined on Madison fare. The hotel’s steakhouse served up slow-cooked duck breast alongside a Japanese onsen egg, edamame bean purée, and a cloud of light truffle foam. The tender duck was cooked to perfection and beautifully complemented by the creamy green beans. We returned to Biscotti for dessert—a coffee-
heavy caramel espuma served atop an orb of dry ice. It was a case of style over substance with the final course, though the presentation was impressive enough to ensure it wasn’t a damp note. The cost for a six-course, intimate fine dining experience, with personal butler and champagne (we sipped on Taittinger Cuvee Prestige), is B14,000++. It’s a price not for the faint-hearted, but no one said romance was cheap. By Annaliese Watkins
Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com
bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Alex Brasserie
All-day French flair finds a home on Sukhumvit Soi 11
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he path of a chef’s career can often appear serpentine, jutting off in unexpected directions—which one imagines is part of the allure. There is the freedom to create a name for yourself, but it can come at great risk. Chef Arnaud Drouvillé is taking that chance with Alex Brasserie, a new restaurant that opened back in April on Bangkok’s busy Sukhumvit Soi 11. His pedigree includes stints with Alain Ducasse, El Bulli in Catalonia, and recently the original Iron Chef Morimoto at his eponymously named Bangkok eatery. Managing a hotel restaurant on a soi that is trying to reinvent its nightlife reputation requires flexing different culinary muscles, but Arnaud enjoys the challenge of operating a kitchen that is open 20 hours a day, and must cater to the whims of hotel guests. The front half of Alex is quite open, with outdoor seating, a bar dominating the center, and a DJ booth. The back half is more subdued and quiet, with industrial lighting leading bangkok101.com
back to the kitchen. Jazzy tunes dance in the background amid chatter. The spirit of the menu is Mediterranean, though there are plenty of Thai options. The other common theme is economical choices, with few dishes exceeding 500 baht. Fine de Claire oysters (B240 for three) provided a salty, silky start to the meal. Part of the restaurant’s strategy is to offer several meal promotions as it rolls out, and oysters feature prominently in that plan. Next was Beef carpaccio (B300). Meant to mimic a pizza, it’s spread over a wafer-thin tortilla and topped with tomato, red onion, parmesan cheese and Kalamata olives. The tortilla yielded a pleasurable crunch while the olives gave a saline tang. Meanwhile, the Diavola pizza (B270) featured lipsmacking smoked ham, but the crust and sauce were not up to the standard of the better pizzerias in the city. A dish that the chef brought over from France which takes pride of place on his menu is the Escalope de veau montagnarde (B490), which translates
roughly to “veal cutlet mountain”. With veal, ham, Emmental cheese, and razor-thin potato slices all covered in a mushroom cream sauce, it does look like a land mass when presented. This is a hearty, salty, delicious course (it must qualify as comfort food on the Continent). Last up, a Raspberry financier (B210)—a baked sweet made with egg whites, butter, sugar, almond powder, flour, vanilla, and a fruit—lent a sweet, tart finish to the meal. The cake was moist and nutty with crispy edges, and was sided with raspberry sorbet, a raspberry tuile, and fresh raspberries. Helping to wash everything down was the house 2016 Sauvignon Blanc from Chile (B200 a glass), a refreshing white with a crisp, clear finish. by Robin Banks
Alex Brasserie
18, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 057 3079 Open daily: 6am-2am www.alexbrasserie.com J U N E 2017 | 89
FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino
FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
Breaking Bread
with Edoardo Bonavolta
About Eatery’s food and wine menu takes dishes and drinks back to basics
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he drink and dine spot About Eatery makes no excuses for its natural appeal and herein lies its beauty. It is the restaurant’s unpretentious attitude—glimpsing out from Ocean Tower II’s ground floor— and refusal to follow the smooth sophistication of wannabe on-trend eateries, that makes Bangkok’s first natural wine bar and restaurant so utterly unique and appealing. For owner Giulio Saverino, the concept of creating a wine menu with an etiquette card design came from his desire to let consumers know what
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they are drinking, and to educate them on wines from small producers. His natural, organic, and biodynamic wine menu details the sugar and sulphite levels, as well as the filtering and fermentation of each wine (each produced using a variety of chemicaland additive-free ingredients, homeopathic farming, and age-old winemaking techniques). Tuscan Chef Edoardo Bonavolta, is the perfect match, bringing the intrinsic beauty of real ingredients to the table, and creating some truly personal dishes that fit the ethos of
the bistro. The chef currently runs his own natural food production and delivery company, Barefood Bangkok, but it was a raw food workshop in Bangkok in 2012 that was his first real introduction to the whole concept. Later, in 2015, he travelled to the USA to take a full course in raw food at the Living Light Culinary Institute. “It changed my life and inspired me to create some of the dishes we serve here,” he says. “There is a shift away from fine dining towards real sustainability in terms of getting the most out of ingredients. This is bangkok101.com
breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK
about the real value of rustic cuisine compared to complicated foods. There is less curiosity in molecular cooking techniques and more interest in real dishes created from a more organic approach can offer.” In a culinary context, the words “raw” and the concept of “natural” wine and cuisine may not sound exciting, but the excitement of About Eatery as a must-go-to restaurant has been buzzing since it first opened a year ago; fast-becoming a firm foodie favourite. The organic kale salad with asparagus, orange, homemade cashew nut cheese, pine nuts, and dried figs is so good that it is enough to bring diners back just to share a bowl. The same goes for the seared, wildcaught tuna with black-eyed beans and chickpeas—wonderfully tasty! The grilled Iberico pork served on a Basque-style bed of sautéed tomatoes and peppers is proof that at the heart of the menu’s back-to-basics cooking is real depth of flavor. Meanwhile, the salty-sweet taste of spelt wholegrain pappardelle served with duck ragout is a rich pasta treat too. “Wine is not perfect. It is like a human being. It is flawed,” explains owner Giulio, a man who is passionate bangkok101.com
about introducing the beauty of wine that is not “overproduced”. “Its general character may stay but it also changes,” he goes on to say. “We embrace that difference, serving wine that flows from the soul of traditional, organic, and natural winemaking vineyards. Have you ever wondered what your wine is made from, beyond grapes, and why so many wines taste the same every season?” Wines are intrinsically what About Eatery is all about, and the biodynamic, Kiwi Chardonnay, Crazy By Nature is a light, steel-fermented smoothie. Chilean Jamon Jamon 2015, a cementfermented natural orange wine made from white grapes with the skins left on, has an almost spirit undertone, delivering all the refreshment of a white with the boldness of a red. By contrast the 2014 Semplicemente Vino Bellotti Rosso is a natural, oak-fermented wine that holds its own with a well-rounded bouquet and tannin-free texture. While wine-lovers will enjoy the voyage of natural wine discovery, part of the journey is re-educating the taste buds to enjoy wine that does not taste like wine as you know it. “There is a growing interest internationally in people knowing
what wine they are drinking, beyond the region it is from,” enthuses Giulio. “Modern wines are not made just from grapes, but can contain 50-100 different ingredients. Many of today’s wines are created like a lab experiment to fit in with consumer ideals of what wine should taste like.” The competition to create a restaurant that really stands out in Bangkok often leads to gimmicky menus designed by trend-led chefs served up with sickly-sweet cocktails created by try-hard mixologists. The result can be a gastronomic overload that leaves diners feeling the after effects of a big blow-out dining and drinking experience. At About Eatery culinary simplicity is served up with a menu of natural wines and food in a relaxed, European style bar and restaurant that includes outside space, a high sharing table, and open kitchen—all very inviting for a glass of vino and a snack, or a full food and natural wine experience. For the team here it’s ultimately all about passion, a lifestyle and a philosophy to eating and drinking that in the cacophony of Bangkok’s clamour to over-indulge exudes a refreshing purity of vision. interview by Nadia Willan J U N E 2017 | 91
FOOD & DRINK | street eats
Street Food’s Last Stand? S treet food is, to me, like a relationship. It’s my faithful family and some of my best friends. When I travel away from the city, it doesn’t take too long before I start thinking about Bangkok street food. I miss the life on the street, the aroma of the chicken broth from the noodle pot, and the pok pok sounds of the mortar and pestle rubbing against each other as the vendors make somtam (papaya salad). I miss the fire underneath the wok when the Chinese uncle makes pakboong (fried morning glory), and the smell of grilled beef over the charcoal prepared for spicy nam tok beef salad. This is the soul of the local food scene in Bangkok, and it’s unlike anywhere else in the world. When I am away, the very thought of it makes me want to get on the plane and jump right back into the middle of it. This is the city that leaves no one hungry. But this lifeblood of Bangkok is now under threat. The government has reportedly vowed to clear the sidewalks and streets of vendors, and I fear for what will become of the city and its soul—not to mention the lives of those striving independent vendors who have fed me, and the rest of the city’s population, so well for so long.
eat like
Nym
Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 92 | J U N E 2017
This is indeed a sad time for our city, and already the streets of Thong Lor, Ekkamai, and Phra Khanong seem desolate after the “street food ban” went into effect on April 17th. I normally use this this column space to highlight special places to get great local food, and Bangkok’s street vendors have mostly populated these pages. But I am suspending my review this month to reflect on what we have had and what we are losing—on what street food means to me. Street food is the bridge that connects strangers, usually while sitting on plastic chairs with the asphalt at their feet. It connects lives from all socio-economic groups—from labourers to 9-to-5 office workers, families, lonely souls, night-shift workers, immigrants, the native-born, criminals, and priests. It even attracts the wealthiest of the wealthy, who pull up in the latest sports car and happily take a seat alongside everyone else. The street food stall is the one place where all classes and types of people can be in one spot. And they’re there for one reason: to share desirable and delicious food. The street food of Bangkok provides me with great pleasure. My desire to discover and experience street food has taken me to all corners of the city, to places I’d never been, and introduced me to so many different vendors who have served
me food cooked with their hands and their hearts. To think that this may in any way disappear fills me with shock and sadness. Critics of the vendors say they are obstructing the sidewalks and streets and need to be removed to establish order. I wonder… do these people only want to eat in soulless, air-conditioned cubicles, or order home delivery? Have they allowed themselves to really feel a part of the organism that is Bangkok? And what of the vendors, who have struggled honestly to support their families? Where are they going to go? How will the city eat? It seems all we can do in the meantime is support the remaining vendors we’ve come to know and love. NOTE: Legislation was originally scheduled to remove all street food vendors from two of the city’s prime tourist attractions—Yaowarat Rd in Bangkok’s Chinatown, and Khao San Rd, the city’s main backpacker area. However, according to official sources, starting in June one lane of Yaowarat Rd and all of Khao San Rd will be transformed into ‘Walking Street’ areas, with plenty of street food, from 6pm till late each evening. Hopefully similar compromise solutions can be proposed for other districts, and plans are already underway for limited street food to return along Thong Lor. bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK | listings
FRENCH
GREEK
Aldo’s Bistro
This superb French restaurant, founded by chef Hervé Frerard, offers a refined and welcoming dining atmosphere, and a tantalizing menu to match (with dishes seldom found elsewhere in Bangkok). 7/F, Ascott Sathorn 187 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 676 6982 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.aldosbistro.com
J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain
This restaurant’s classic French haute cuisine definitely lives up to its lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items well into the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com
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INTERNATIONAL Amaya Food Gallery
Avra
Avra Greek Restaurant
Rising from the mid-Sukhumvit culinary clutter like a Parthenon of Hellenic delights, this charming eatery offers an impressively expansive menu that includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches. GF, Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit 1 Soi Daengudom, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open: Tue-Fri, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Sat-Sun, noon-11pm, Mon, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 258 2877 www.avrabkk.com
The Amari Watergate’s newly opened Amaya Food Gallery features, among other things, a Sunday brunch inspired by the alluring flavours of Asian street food, together with a tantalizing touch of Western cuisine. Amari Watergate Hotel, 847 Petchburi Rd. Tel: 02 653 9000 Open daily: 6am-10pm Sunday brunch, noon-3:30pm www.amari.com/watergate
Bunker
Classically trained in French cuisine, and committed to the Slow Food movement, Chef Arnie—a new devotee of Thai cuisine—is a one-man melting pot. Take cover from ho-hum cuisine. 118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com
Char
The amount of fantastic French and Mediterranean dishes (with a few Thai
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listings | FOOD & DRINK touches) that this busy rooftop restaurant can churn out in an evening means one visit most likely won’t be nearly enough. 25-26F, Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok
Le Cochon Blanc
Carnivores, who can attest to the primal allure of meat grilled over flames, are advised to follow the smoke wafting out from this restaurant’s oversized fiery BBQ pit. 26, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02 662 3814 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.lecochonblanc.com
7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com
Park Society
Eat Me
Eat Me
Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town. Trust us! Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com
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Excite both your taste buds and eyes with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner overlooking Lumpini Park and the amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect for a romantic evening or a friendly get-together. SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: Kitchen, 6pm-10:30pm, www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com
Red Oven
Styled as a World Food Market, this 7th-floor all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet.
Scarlett
Scarlett
For many Bangkok residents this sky-high restaurant, with amazing city views, is one of those places that forever remains on the “favourite” list. Try their salt aged beef main dishes, or choose from an array of superb daily specials. Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 37F, 188 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 1991 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.pullmanbangkokhotelg.com
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FOOD & DRINK | listings
The Coffee Club
Since 1989 this Australian company has been expanding internationally and now has several branches in Thailand. It offers a friendly and flavourful oasis of calm—whether you just want a latte, an all-day breakfast, or a full and fortifying meal. 1239 Sukhumvit Rd, Tel: 02 381 2736 45 Soi Convent, Tel: 098 250 9047 The Hive at Sukhumvit Soi 49, Tel: 098 250 9042 The Maze at Sukhumvit Soi 55, Tel: 098 250 9051 facebook.com/thecoffeeclubthailand
ITALIAN Galleria Milano
An Italian restaurant in the hands of Italians, where the pride is tasted in every bite, serves as the inspiration for a restaurant aiming to conquer the city. 1F, Mille Malle, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Tel: 02 663 4988 Open daily: 3pm-11pm www.millemalle.com
items such as cheese and pepper pasta, burrata salad, and their signature tiramisu are still on the menu. 73, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 234 9933 Open: Sun-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11ammidnight www.facebook.com/sorrentosathorn La Bottega di Luca
MEXICAN
La Bottega di Luca
This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus. 2F, Terrace 49 Building Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Mon, 5pm-11pm www.labottega.name/restaurant
Sorrento
This venue has long been one of the city’s tried and trusted Italian food restaurants, and although they’ve reopened with a rebranding, favourite
Méjico
The menu tackles traditions long ignored, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer. 2F, Groove@Central World Tel: 02 252 6660 Open daily: 11am-late www.facebook.com/mejicothailand
Slanted Taco
Owner Jorge Bernal brings the authentic flavours of the Mexican street to Bangkok, with many original recipes and handmade Mexican chorizo. Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 0546
PRESENTING THE 'SIP SOME THAI' COCKTAIL SERIES
It’s gastronomy in a glass!
OPENING HOURS
3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am
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LOCATION
Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkokʼs Silom District
CONTACT
Tel: 02 238 0931 Email: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com
www.eatmerestaurant.com
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listings | FOOD & DRINK Open: Mon-Fri, 4pm-1am, Sat-Sun, 2pm-1am www.slantedtaco.com
NEW ZEALAND
Kai
Kai
Serving up modern Kiwi cuisine, the menu here encompasses themes such as: wild-catch seafood; free-range meats; and homemade specials. The focus on all things Kiwi also extends to the bar, which offers four NZ beers on tap. 142/22-23, Sathorn Soi 12 Tel: 02 635 3800 Open: Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat-Sun, 8:30am-midnight www.kai-bangkok.com
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SEAFOOD Laem Charoen Seafood
Offering a wide range of yummy seafood delicacies—all straight from the sea—this seafood restaurant has been growing in stature while staying true to its original roots. Reliability and customer satisfaction has made it one of the best seafood restaurants in town. 4F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 610 9244 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.laemcharoenseafood.com
Ruen Urai
Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com
THAI Baan Phadthai
The creative team behind some of Bangkok’s tonier restaurants decided to create this eatery with a more down-toearth tone, offering Thailand’s singular street-food favourite in a stylish and comfortable setting. 21-23, Charoen Krung Soi 44 Tel: 02 060 5553 Open daily: 11am-10pm www.facebook.com/baanphadthai
Sri Trat
Sri Trat
This beautifully remodeled houseturned-restaurant offers a taste of Eastern Thailand, a cuisine noted for its abundance of seafood, and the use of fresh fruits and rare herbs.
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FOOD & DRINK | listings 90, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Tel: 02 088 0968 Open: Wed-Mon, noon-11pm www.facebook.com/sritrat
GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier, Tel: 02 261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand
The Commons, 335 Thonglor Soi 17, Tel: 02 185 2865 1F, EmQuartier, 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd, Tel: 094 176 3870 www.roastbkk.com
Rocket Coffeebar
A Nordic-inspired café offering premium quality coffee along with variety of comfort foods, all under the healthy concept of farm-to-table. Now with 2 locations. 147, Sathorn Soi 12, Tel: 02 635 0404 1F, Grease Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49, Tel: 02 662 6638 www.rocketcoffeebar.com
Suan Bua
Suan Bua
Located in the busy North end of Bangkok, this Thai restaurant offers a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere with a focus on natural and organic ingredients. It encompasses traditional dishes from all over Thailand. LLF, Centara Grand, Ladprao 1695 Phahonyothin Rd. Tel: 02 541 1234 ext. 4068 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm; 6pm-10:30pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com
CAFÉ Dean & Deluca
This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients.
Kiosk Café
VEGETARIAN
Kiosk Café
Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boite is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cake-and-chat, or a delicious hot coffee. 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com
Roast
At both branches of this casual all-day eatery, which serves up high quality comfort food and specialty coffee, the menu variations range from eggs Benedict and croque monsieur, to pulled pork burgers and truffle alfredo.
Broccoli Revolution
Broccoli Revolution
This veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution
www.labottega.name T. +6622041731 labottegabangkok
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bottegabkk
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Greendish Thai Cuisine offers visitors authentic Thai food made with fresh local ingredients. At lunch time we provide Thailand's most popular dishes such as Pad Thai, Chicken Satay, or Tom Yum Goong with your favorite drink at a reasonable price; while our dinner a la carte menu is of the same standard. We make it our goal to satisfy all of our guests with our tasty and authentic dishes and to keep them coming back for more.
Photo courtesy of The Bar Awards
Cheers to all the winners at The Bar Awards, held this year at Zuma Bangkok
| NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE the best of the boozers
On April 23rd THE BAR AWARDS held a gala event to announce the winners of its Bangkok competition (the organization also conducts bar rankings in Singapore and Hong Kong). Announced live at an industry party at ZUMA BANGKOK, the affair was attended by over 200 movers and shakers from Bangkok’s nightlife community. After an open call for public nominations, a panel of judges—key players from different facets of the city’s F&B industry—whittled things down to decide who would get the top spot in each category. This year’s big winners included: The Bamboo Bar; Vesper; Mikkeller; Bunker; Bronx Liquid Parlour; Backstage; Teens of Thailand; and SUWINCHA ‘CHACHA’ SINGSUWAN from Rabbit Hole, who was named ‘Bartender of the Year’. www.thebarawards.com
better to be bitter NEGRONI WEEK 2017 is coming to Bangkok and the star of the show will be CAMPARI, Italy’s iconic red bittersweet apéritif. Now in its 5th year, this week-long international charity initiative will take place from the 5th to the 11th of June, 2017, with bars and restaurants from across the world coming together over the classic Negroni cocktail—an iconic mix of Campari, gin, and sweet red vermouth–to raise money and awareness for great causes. For more information about Thailand’s participating bars, charities, and what’s going on in your area during Negroni Week, visit the organization’s official website. www.negroniweek.com
the 22 step program Located on the mezzanine floor of the hip HOTEL INDIGO (130 Wireless Rd), the newly launched 22 STEPS CRAFT HOUSE promises to satisfy the needs of the neighbourhood’s craft beer cognoscenti. It’s a sophisticated and relaxing space—a bit like a European drawing room, complete with oversized chandelier and a soaring dark wood bookcase—and can hold about 30 to 40 persons. Of the beers and ciders available there are 58 bottle brands and three beers on tap, with the majority of the brews supplied by the folks at SMILING MAD DOG. Names like Brewdog, Ballast Point, and Flying Dog Brewery should attract some attention, as will the new menu (the Waygu beef burgers are hard to resist). The bar is open daily from 3pm till midnight. www.facebook.com/22stepscrafthouse
pullman pumps it up When you refer to yourselves as “the most luxurious dance club in Thailand” you better be able to back it up, and thankfully the newly launched CLUB SX does just that. Located on the 6th floor of the HOTEL PULLMAN BANGKOK GRANDE SUKHUMVIT (30, Sukhumvit Soi 21), this 1,000 sq.m palatial dance club is divided into sections, including the Cowboy Zone (with a pair of outdoor terraces overlooking the Asoke junction), the quieter Romantic Zone, and three private VIP rooms with Karaoke facility for more private partying. There’s also a strict no shorts, sandals, or sportswear dress code in effect, so dress up before you get down. Open daily from 10pm onwards. www.sxdance.club
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NIGHTLIFE | review
Siam in Every Sip
Eat Me restaurant’s Thai cocktail collection delivers gastronomy in a glass
C
ocktails are the blank canvasses where artisan bartenders best display their consumable craftsmanship. In Bangkok, you’d be hard pressed to find a bar that doesn’t boast some “Thai twist” on at least a few of its signature drinks, but at Eat Me the idea of Thai flavouring gets taken to the next level with the introduction of their ‘Sip Some Thai’ drink menu. These aren’t simply beverages with a little lemongrass or basil thrown in, these are drinks that actually taste like Thai foods. The mad Siamese scientist behind these beverages is Buntanes ‘Pop’ Direkrittikul (right), Eat Me’s resident barman, and his cocktail chemistry is nothing short of magical. The eight selections he's created for this special menu (priced at B320 each) not only represent the cuisine of the four main regions of Thailand—North, Northeast, South and Central—they actually taste like the dishes that inspired them. True, it all sounds a bit impossible, but take a small swig of the Laab-Moo cocktail and a mouthful of spicy minced Isaan pork salad will immediately come to mind—guaranteed! It’s a profoundly
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strange taste sensation at first, but it’s also absolutely delicious. The drink itself is a mix of Ketel One vodka, mint, shallot, and cilantro, and comes garnished with a thin and crispy slice of Serrano ham. The glass, meanwhile, is rimmed with ground up roasted rice and dusted with chili. It’s actually quite fiery, so drink from the un-rimmed side of the glass if your spice threshold is low. By contrast the Mieng-Khum is a rum-based drink, combining Diplomatico blanco with betel leaf, shallot, ginger,
and lime. The glass comes rimmed with shavings of roasted coconut, and the whole thing is served on a rectangular plate with an actual one-bite wrap of mieng khum (a popular DIY snack from Northern Thailand). The idea is to take a sip of the drink, then pop the real thing in your mouth and eat it, and then take another sip. The match is uncanny, however only one has an alcoholic kick. Next up comes the Nahm-PrikNoom, a golden mix of Ketel One vodka—infused with grilled bell pepper, garlic, and shallots—and lime, served in a glass rimmed with ground pork rinds and offset by a raised shallot that Pop dramatically singes with a blowtorch before serving. It’s got all the peppery, spicy tastes of conventional nahm prik, and it makes a nice counterpoint to the Kaeng-Om cocktail, which combines Ketel One vodka, dill, shallot, lemongrass, Kaffir lime leaf, betel leaf, and lime. It’s light green in colour and comes served with a languid stalk of fragrant dill draped across the glass. In some ways this drink is most like a conventional cocktail, with a refreshing sour-citrus flavour, but as it sits between sips bangkok101.com
review | NIGHTLIFE
Kaeng-Tai-Pla
Laab-Moo
Kaeng-Khiao-Wan
Lod-Chong
Khow-Neow-Ma-Muang
Kaeng-Om
the dill element becomes more pronounced and (to my mind) makes this drink even better. Of the six “savoury” concoctions on Pop’s menu, the final pair are true showstoppers. The KaengKhiao-Wan is a drink version of green curry soup—believe it or not—and combines Diplomatico blanco rum, basil, shallot, Kaffir lime leaf, green curry, milk, and lime. It’s served in a ceramic bowl, garnished with a sprig of tiny green eggplants, and looks like the sort of nectar of the gods one drinks before taking Ayahuasca or going on a Maori walkabout. But all exotic drama aside, it successfully delivers the taste of sweet green curry in delicious fashion. Equally as intriguing is the Kaeng-Tai-Pla, this time conjuring up the fiery flavour of Southern Thailand. Poured over a considerable amount of ice, and served in a sort of silver stein, it marries Alipus San Luis mezcal (the heat) with shallot, lemongrass, Kaffir lime leaf, curry, and lime. It’s got kick bangkok101.com
to spare, and definitely puts a fire in the belly. After all these main courses the evening’s tasting menu finishes off with Pop’s two dessert beverages, both of which are, not surprisingly, considerably sweeter than the rest but never overpoweringly so. The first is the pretty yet potent Lod-Chong, a gin based beauty that combines Tanqueray, jackfruit syrup, and coconut milk. It comes garnished with slivers of jackfruit and a sprinkle of pink pomegranate seeds, which all rest placidly on the large square ice cube perfectly plunked in the middle of the glass. Equally divine is the KhowNeow-Ma-Muang, which pays homage to that quintessential Thai treat known as sweet mango with sticky rice. Here Diplomatico blanco rum, mango purée, and coconut oil are expertly blended, and a sprinkling of black sesame seeds puts the finishing touch on a cocktail that deserves to be as well-known as the delicious dessert that inspired it.
The combination of creativity selected ingredients and top shelf booze already put these cocktails well above the status of “gimmick”, and such an artistic and novel approach to mixology should see a lot of curious connoisseurs making their way to Eat Me’s fabulous downstairs bar area—whether perched on a barstool (where you can watch Pop at work, err… I mean play), or sitting down with friends at one of the indoor or outdoor tables. It’s also worth mentioning that Eat stays open late, with full kitchen and bar operating until 1am, and that the award-winning dishes on Chef Tim Butler’s food menu are as out-of-thisworld as Pop’s drink selections. by Bruce Scott
Eat Me Restaurant Soi Pipat 2 (at Convent Rd) Open daily: 3pm-1am Tel: 02 238 0931 www.eatmerestaurant.com
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NIGHTLIFE | review
Backstage Bar
Behind-the-scenes at Bangkok’s best new cocktail bar
“
W
e want a Michelin star—a Michelin star for bars. Yeah…” says Watcharapong ‘Bank’ Suriyaphan, grinning like the cat that got the canary. “We aim high!” Minutes later, Bank has somehow snatched the notepad from this writer’s hands, shining the spotlight in the other direction, for once, with a barrage of the same empty questions that had been thrust upon him. He’s turned our interview into a conversation, throwing a wrench into the vaguest suggestion that the night will unfold as planned. So the notepad goes away, along with scripted questions, and we get back to the business of having a good time. This, it seems, is par for the course at Backstage Bar, the burlesquethemed, no-holds-barred hideaway named Bangkok’s Best New Cocktail Bar at The Bar Awards, an event held back in late April (see pg. 101). “We look at everyone here as our friend,” adds Kitibordee ‘Gov’ Chortubtim, co-founder and head bartender, as he prepares a classic Daiquiri (B340). Although just lime, rum, sugar, and ice, the Daiquiri is 10 4 | J U N E 2017
notoriously hard to perfect, but Gov’s got the balance right. The bar’s motto—“Nothing is serious behind the curtains, except for cocktails”— suddenly makes perfect sense. Bank, meanwhile, explains the Backstage MO. Of the six co-founders, at least two man the bar each night (Bank, who moonlights for a spirits importer, claims he’s “an entertainer, not a bartender”), and the team brings on new talent all the time. Much of the clientele, he says, are regulars. And even though it’s technically an industry bar—a place for other bartenders to hang out when they’re off the clock— it still has mass consumer appeal. While a soundtrack featuring big band covers of pop songs plays on, the fun-loving staff jokes around with everyone, even the first-timers, but they also make sure all customers get the right drink for their tastes. The cocktails are, simply put, right up there with the best in this city. The Earthbeet (B390) is a vegetal riff on the Negroni, punctuated by a bittersweet balance of unusual ingredients: beet-infused Cimarrón tequila, Alipus San Juan mezcal, and
Cynar artichoke liqueur. The Lucky 13th (B360) does away with subtlety, using an herbal-sweet foundation of Ricola-infused Ketel One vodka, Fernet-Branca amaro, and peach liqueur, while kaffir lime and honey add dimension to a tasty finished product. There’s even a cocktail made with rhubarb (the ‘Aphrodisiac’), an ingredient most commonly used in pies. Just don’t expect much elderflower. “It’s like MSG—it’s too easy,” says the pensive Gov, a frequent figure on the bartender competition circuit who admits that judges “don’t always get” his creative process. However, you can be the judge of Gov’s creative ability, as a brand-new signature drink menu will be have been released by the time you read this—and it will have his fingerprints all over it. by Craig Sauers
Backstage Bar
Playhaus Thong Lor 205/22-23, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 712 5747 Open daily: 6pm-1am facebook.com/backstagecocktailbarbkk bangkok101.com
connoisseur corner | NIGHTLIFE
Wine News & Events By Bruce Scott
W
ine dinners are never out of fashion and, in fact, are a great way for restaurants and wine distributors to jointly promote their products. During the month of May, Ferrari Trento began its ‘Pop-Up Trento DOC’ experience at La Bottega di Luca
Pop-Up Trento DOC dinner
(Sukhumvit Soi 49). The evenings consist of a special menu of divine delicacies—prepared by La Bottgea’s master Chef Andrea Ortu—all carefully paired with Ferrari Trento bubbly beverages. Highlights of the evening included: the chilled green bean cream soup with roasted octopus, stracciatella cheese, and cherry tomatoes confit, paired with a Ferrari Maximum Brut; the risotto with 36-month aged Parmesan cheese, scampi, green apple, lime and thyme foam; and the stewed veal homemade filled ravioli with black truffle (the latter two paired with a Ferrari Maxumun Brut Rosé). These dinners continue until Sunday, June 11th, starting each evening at 6:30pm, so there’s still time to experience this gourmet adventure. Call 02 204 1731 for information and/or reservations. Another recent wine dinner presented Bangkok oenophiles with a true taste of New Zealand when Villa Maria wineries paired up with Kai—a restaurant specializing in Kiwi cuisine—for an evening of great food and vivacious vino. Founded in 1961, Villa Maria is one of New Zealand’s most awarded wineries, and during the 5-course dinner event they showcased their 2015 Private Bin Gewürztraminer and 2016 Private Bin Chardonnay, as well as their 2015 Private Bin Pinot Noir and 2014 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Pinot Noir, both from Marlborough. However, it was the 2016 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc, also from Marlborough, that most caught my attention. Crisp and complex, it was an excellent choice to accompany the dinner’s 3rd course, which consisted of a delicious fillet of orange roughy with a crayfish ravioli, served alongside braised capsicums and pea velouté (all ingredients direct bangkok101.com
from NZ). By the way, Bangkok shoppers looking for Villa Maria wines can find them at the downtown Q-Wine Shop, which is located on the 2nd floor of the Major Cineplex Building (1221/39 Sukhumvit Rd). www.wineqshop.com Upcoming wine events this month include Italian Week @ CentralWorld, which runs from the 1st to the 4th of June. Local importers G Four Fine Wines and Spirits will have a booth at the event where they will be showcasing some of their finest wines alongside products from Italy such as gelato from Ghignoni, and organic chocolate from Sicily. Later in the month, from June 27th to 30th, G Four will be bringing Chef Raffaele Ros, from the Michelin-starred San Martino Restaurant Chef Raffaele Ros near Venice, for four exceptional Italian dinners at Bangkok’s own Gianni Ristorante (34/1 Soi Tonson). For more information, or to make reservations, call 02 252 1619. Meanwhile, the Opera, Wine and Food… a Perfect Italian Journey event currently on at Attico—the rustic Tuscan dining spot located on the 28th floor the Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok (489 Sukhumvit Rd)—continues until August 4th. On its completion it will have taken guests on a 12-week epicurean voyage around Italy. A long the way, Chef de Cuisine Matteo Verini will be making stops in a different region every week, serving up lesser-known regional specialties paired with exceptional wines. It’s a one-of-its-kind gastronomic journey that will sweep guests off their feet and take them on an unforgettable trip to the heart of the Mediterranean. For reservations call 02 302 3333. Finally, if you’re more in the “drink at home or with friends” frame of mind, stock up on the new Chandon Summer Limited Edition Brut, a bubbly that’s perfect for everything from weekend beach picnics to special occasion celebrations. It’s a Chardonnay-led sparkling white from Victoria’s Yarra Valley, in Australia, which uses the French méthod traditionelle (which includes 18 months of yeast age). Priced locally at B865, and packaged in an eye-catching, attractive blue- and white-striped bottle, it’s a nice match with most seafood, BBQ pork, antipasto, and/or soft white cheeses. Expect bright, fresh aromas of apple, lemon zest, and pear, followed by a dry refreshing finish. www.facebook.com/chandonthailand J U N E 2017 | 105
NIGHTLIFE | listings
BARS
Ekkamai Mall, Ekkamai Soi 10 Open daily: 5pm-midnight Tel: 082 675 9673 facebook.com/goldencoinstaproom
3 Bears Craft Brewery
This craft beer bar is a collaborative project by an architect, a sound engineer, and a renowned local chef. Alongside the great locally made suds, diners can order brewpub favorites like fried chicken wings and gourmet snacks such as piquant tempura-fried calamari. 1154, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Open: Mon-Fri, 4pm-midnight Sat-Sun 11am-midnight Tel: 095 456 8298 facebook.com/3bearscb
Bronx Liquid Parlour
This half-hidden tippling spot brings something of a higher class of cocktail culture to the Thong Lor strip. Stylish interiors and exotic cocktail menus make it even more distinctive—a perfect combination of Tokyo, New York, and London in one bar. 8, Thonglor Soi 25 Tel: 02 036 6071 Open: Tue-Sun, 7pm-2am www.bronxbkk.com
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Inblu Bar
Duke
Duke
Although it’s in a mall, this high-end whisky and cigar lounge—full to bursting with paintings and sculptures—feels more like a SoHo warehouse loft space owned by an eccentric millionaire. 1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 094 647 8888 Open daily: 11am-midnight facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn
Goldencoins Taproom
Wood and brick loom large in the low-lit interiors, chalkboard menus list the kitchen’s comfort food, and an ample selection of craft beers—all made by the owner—tempt Thai craft beer connoisseurs of all kinds.
Located on the hotel’s lobby level, this stylish drink spot offers an extensive selection of beers, whiskies, cocktails, and wines, plus tasty nibbles and great live music seven days a week. Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.pullmanbankokgrandesukhumvit.com
J. Boroski Mixology
A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com
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listings | NIGHTLIFE Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 1F, 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 9am-midnight Tel: 02 649 8353 www.thelivingroomatbangkok.com
26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok
ROOFTOP SKY BAR Rabbit Hole
Rabbit Hole
A proper cocktail bar, run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What’s more, the personable bartenders really know their spirits. 125, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 081 822 3392 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/rabbitholebkk
amBar
Located on the 8th floor rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, this pool bar offers an inviting and relaxed lounge atmosphere. Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3288 Open daily: 4pm-midnight www.ambarbangkok.com
Red Sky Bar
Red Sky Bar
It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lor hotspot, stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and plenty of antiques. Soi Tararom 2, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 714 9450 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.facebook.com/shadesofretrobar
This chic and stylish semi-alfresco lounge offers great views, plus an upscale take on street food and a drinks menu full of cocktails inspired by Thai culture. 39F, The Continent Hotel 413 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 6pm-1am Tel: 02 867 7000 www.facebook.com/bangkokheightz
One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars, perched dramatically above the heart of the city, offers light bites and drinks such as the signature Imperial Mojito and Martini-infused cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com
The Living Room
Char
Sky On 20
Shades of Retro
Home to one of the finest live jazz stages in Bangkok, this nightspot is tastefully decorated, and includes a sweeping bar, comfortable armchairs and sofas, and subdued lighting—not to mention fine whiskies, cocktails, and cognacs.
bangkok101.com
Bangkok Heightz
Located on the 26th floor of the Hotel Indigo, visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious.
At this new, and very stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok.
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NIGHTLIFE | listings Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok
Zest Bar and Terrace
Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails, and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com
CLUB
from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com
LIVE MUSIC Bamboo Bar
A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com
Brown Sugar 8 on Eleven
8 on Eleven
A gastro bar with a modern industrial twist and a 2nd floor dance area, this newest addition to the Sukhumvit Soi 11 nightlife scene offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven
Cé La Vi
Cé La Vi Bangkok (formerly Ku De Ta Bangkok) is one of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com
PUBS The Drunken Leprechaun
This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks 108 | J U N E 2017
Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime tunes draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com
Queen Bee
A great place to hang out and meet up with friends while enjoying great live music. Come play some pool and check out some of Bangkok’s best rock’n’roll and blues cover bands. 25/9, Sukumvit Soi 26 Tel: 092 446 4234 Open: 10:30am-2am www.facebook.com/QueenBeeBangkok
The Zuk Bar
The ideal place for aperitifs or afterdinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view, and enjoy live jazz by Coco, every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday night. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com bangkok101.com
Join the “upwardly mobile” at Climb Central Bangkok
| LIFESTYLE
LIFE+STYLE social climbers Although it’s a bit of a hike out to Thonburi, that’s where you’ll find CLIMB CENTRAL BANGKOK, the city’s biggest rock climbing gym (operated by the same team behind the Climb Central branches in Manila and Singapore). This air-conditioned venue is located on Kallapaphruek Rd (about 10 km from BTS Wutthakat station), and it offers the “upwardly mobile” set a series of gnarled walls and ambitious overhangs—with a grand total of 1,000 sq.m of climbing wall space. Walk-in entry for unlimited climbs within one day costs B600 for adults and B500 for youths (first-time registration fee and equipment fee included), and instructors are on hand for less experienced climbers. Open weekdays from 1pm till 10pm, and weekends from 10am to 9pm. www.climbcentral.co.th
they tried to make me go to rehab The first floor of the POLARIS TOWER (Sukhumvit Soi 20) is the home of FORM FITNESS AND REHAB, a unique new workout facility aimed to getting people back in the gym safely after injuries or other health-related issues. Founder PARTHA MAZUMDER earned his credentials as a certified personal trainer, and now offers courses tailored to various rehab requirements—from post-pregnancy workout, to training with diabetes, hypertension, and heart disease—all designed in collaboration with in-house physiotherapists. It’s all designed to bridge the gap between rehabilitation and fitness. www.formfitnessrehab.com
creative forces After much anticipation, the new headquarters of THAILAND CREATIVE AND DESIGN CENTRE (TCDC) opened at the GRAND POSTAL BUILDING (on Charoen Krung Rd). A three-day launch party took place in early May, welcoming visitors to explore the 9,000 sq.m space. The five floor interior includes coworking space, a hands-on workshop area, start-up business advising services, a resource and material centre, an auditorium, exhibition grounds, and more. Constructed to be a creative learning centre, and the country’s driving force in the creative economy, the arrival of the TCDC in the Charoen Krung area will also be a major catalyst in the rejuvenation—some say “gentrification”—of this historic area. The TCDC Bangkok is now open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30am until 9pm. www.tcdc.or.th.
shoppers, start your engines… The Tourism Authority of Thailand’s (TAT) annual AMAZING THAILAND GRAND SALE campaign, which has been held successfully for 18 consecutive years, returns this year as the ‘Thailand Shopping & Dining Paradise 2017’. It runs from June 1st to 31 July 31st in cities across the Kingdom. During the campaign, partners and participating outlets—which include shopping malls, leading airlines, hotels, restaurants, and leading credit card companies—will be offering special promotions and steep discounts to encourage foreign travellers to enjoy shopping, dining, entertaining, and travel within Thailand throughout the two-month period. The campaign is also aimed at boosting intra-regional tourism and strengthening the position of Thailand as a regional travel hub. www.tatnews.org
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LIFESTYLE | spa products
Fine Fragrances and Soothing Skin Lotions Nuttarin Coconut is a producer of extra virgin coconut oil which has been certified by international institutes—both in Thailand and worldwide. The intention of this young brand is to be a leading coconut oils company, selling and distributing their products across the globe.
NUTTARIN EXTRA VIRGIN COCONUT OIL This extra virgin coconut oil is blessed with a light texture and a refreshing scent, but the real benefit is that it will keep your skin healthy and youthful. It helps protect your skin from the effects of ageing, but can also aid in coping with distressed muscles, and overall skin restoration. It’s also an excellent hair conditioner, able to guard your flowing tresses from all kinds of day-to-day damage. This wonder product is available in various sizes, with prices starting at B280 for 250ml, and can be found nationwide at stores such Boots, Gourmet Market, Tokyu, and Lab Pharmacy, as well as at leading department stores and select local outlets. www.nuttarin.com
Harnn is one of Thailand’s most prestigious purveyors of natural spa, body care, and skin care products.
HARNN SAPDAAH DIFFUSERS COLLECTION
This limited edition collection consists of seven rich and uniquely crafted scents—all inspired by the astrological belief that each day of the week has on an influence on your life. Each scent, derived from natural essential oils, is matched with their respective day of the week, using the Thai names Chann, Ahgara, Pudh, Pruhas, Suukh, Sao, and Aditya. Meanwhile, the design of the diffuser has incorporated luxe contemporary Asian features, such as a traditional Thai headdress or a crown. This collection is priced at B1,650 and available in Thailand at HARNN shops Bangkok, Pattaya, Phuket, Samui, Chiangmai and at duty-free King Power outlets (Suvarnabhumi Airport, Phuket Airport, Sivaree Complex and Phuket). www.harnn.com
Siam Wellness is the producer of a variety of spa products which use handpicked natural ingredients, all carefully selected and prepared to suit different needs. The brand offers a wide range of spa products for in-home use and in-spa use, including massage oils, pure essential oils, and more.
BLOOMING SPA JASMINE BODY LOTION This jasmine body lotion, part of the Blooming Spa collection, evokes a romantic mood—uplifting spirits and increasing alertness. It reduces fatigue, tension, aches, and even menstrual cramps. It’s made from carefully selected ingredients, including skin nutrients such as aloe vera combined with Thai herbal extracts, and vitamins E and B5. The fast absorbing formula and fine texture allows for deep absorption to effectively nourish skin. Blended with aromatherapy pure essential oils, it will give you an aroma therapeutic spa experience, leaving skin looking younger, and feeling soft and moist all day. This product is priced at B350 for a 250ml container, and is available at all branches of Let’s Relax Spa and RalinJinda Spa (in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Pattaya, Phuket, and Koh Samui). www.siamwellnessgroup.com
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SIGNING OFF | did you know?
Pasture-fed lamb, with sweet potato Tzatziki
D
id you know you can get grocery home delivery service that allows you to follow the Paleo Diet, one of the world’s most demanding dietary regimes? The term “paleo” here refers to the Paleolithic era (caveman times), and thus the only foods you can eat are what a caveman would eat—just meats, fish, nuts, leafy greens, regional veggies, and seeds 114 | J U N E 2017
(and definitely no pasta, cereal, or sugary desserts). In Bangkok, the aptly named food service PaleoRobbie helps city slickers follow this ancient diet. The company was founded by brothers Erik and Robbie, from the Netherlands, and now serves specially prepared meals to over 400 people every day. The interest in the Paleo Diet first took root when 24-year-old Robbie— who used to weigh a whopping 137kg—came to Phuket with friends, all on a mission to get in shape. The Paleo Diet worked wonders, and he lost 35kg in the first five months. Upon visiting his brother Erik, who was then living in Bangkok, Robbie found the food choices in this city to be vast in variety, but scant when it came to truly healthy meals. Robbie then began cooking at home, and the brothers would invite friends who all happily came back for more. Soon there were 16 guests per dinner, and things just grew from
there. People started to ask if they could use similar ingredients to cook at home, so the brothers decided to launch a grocery home delivery service. Now, four years later, business is booming. Healthy meals, made from scratch, are being delivered daily all over Bangkok, while hard to find healthy groceries can be delivered to homes nation-wide. Delicacies such as wild caught salmon from Alaska, pasture-fed beef from New Zealand, and pasture-fed chickens from a dedicated chicken farm can all be delivered fresh to your doorstep. All items on the grocery are in line with the Paleo Diet, all meats come from ethically raised animals, and the Dutch duo also abstain from using any processed foods. www.paleorobbie.com For more information about better living, turn to our special Health and Wellness cover feature, starting on page 14. bangkok101.com