PUBLISHER’S LETTER
W
ho’s afraid of the dark? Not us here in Bangkok. For some of us, the night provides solace from the helter-skelter hustle and bustle of the day. And for others, the night is the day, the only hours we operate, going from sundown to sunup with a full supply of midnight oil. This month, we explore the city that comes alive after dark—and we do so with an exciting new design. Just in time for the Thai New Year, we have trimmed the fat to improve the reader experience. The columns have been narrowed, the font has been sharpened, and there are more photos to enjoy than ever as you read about the best ways to bring in the night. Start with Best of BKK, a story that breaks down Bangkok by the hour, from the close of business to the dawn of a new day. Afterward flip the pages to Out & About for a first-person account of Co van Kessel’s exhilarating night bike tour through the Old Town. In his monthly column, Joe’s BKK, Joe Cummings then explores the rise of Soi Nana, an integrated community that’s developing its own locally-focussed nightlife. We also recap Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, where Bangkok’s own Chef Gaggan took home top honours yet again. And in Nightlife, we check out a revamped club and a warehouse-turned-beer mecca before Wahtihdah Shannon Duffy details the rise of the city’s underground electronic music scene. All this, as well as our 101 archive and extras, can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of Enjoy. clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence info@talisman.asia.
What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Publisher
BA NGKOK 101 PA RT N ER S
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CONTRIBUTORS
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Craig Sauers food editor
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
JOHN KRICH has just returned from Kuala Lumpur for his second stint in Bangkok. Previously the chief food columnist and feature writer on travel, arts, and sports for the Asian Wall St. Journal, John is a native New Yorker who has authored nine books. He has also been a frequent contributor to major publications like TIME/Asia, Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic Traveler, The New York Times, and San Francisco Examiner.
John Krich
associate editor
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Joe Cummings
editorial coordinator
Pongphop Songsiriarcha editorial intern
Julia Offenberger art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen, Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Matty Dyas, Adam O’Keefe, Marco Ferrarese, April Nelson, Wahtihdah Shannon Duffy, Kaila Krayewski contributing photographers
Having lived in Thailand for many years, JIM ALGIE has authored such books as the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) and the short-fiction collection, The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand, as well as co-written the history book Americans in Thailand (2014), and Thailand’s Sustainable Development Sourcebook (2015). His new 2016 book is entitled, On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin tales of rock ‘n’ punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway. AVAILABLE AT:
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM.
Paris native LUC CITRINOT has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.
Willem Deenik, Anupong Hotawaisaya, Wattanapong Hotavaisaya, Randy Travis, Steven Wheatley general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi sales manager
Orawan Ratanapratum sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon sales executive
Kiattisak Chanchay, Chakrit Worasut circulation
Phichet Reangchit published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. SEP T EM BER 2014 | 5
CONTENTS
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CITY PULSE 8 metro beat 12 my bangkok: dj nakadia 14 hot plates: black market 16 best of bkk: after dark 22 out & about: night bike tour 26 on the block: sathorn 10, 12 28 hotel review: w bangkok 30 making merit: bangkok charity orchestra
SNAPSHOTS 32 tom’s two satang 34 joe’s bangkok 36 bizarre thailand 38 very thai 40 heritage: romaneenart park
FOOD & DRINK 74 food & drink opening page 76 meal deals 7 7 food editor’s letter 78 restaurant reviews: chicon, punjab grill, enoteca, lenzi, the chinese restaurant, spasso 86 breaking bread with chef arnie marcella 88 in the kitchen: armando bonadonna 90 eat like nym 91 made in thailand: three monkeys rum 92 recap: asia’s 50 best 96 50 best explores
NIGHTLIFE 104 nightlife opening page 106 review: wxyz, wishbeer 108 electronic underground 112 imbibe: the bar
LIFESTYLE 118 lifestyle opening page 120 spring/summer trend report 122 unique boutique: pakamian 124 bangkok’s best night markets 126 review: anantara spa 127 beauty products
SIGNING OFF 128 did you know? TRAVEL 42 travel opening page 4 4 upcountry now 46 feature: songkran down south 50 upcountry escape: mahout 56 over the border: bandung
ART & CULTURE 60 art opening page 62 exhibitions 64 interview: john burdett 66 cheat notes: the bangkok asset 68 photo feature: city@night
ON THE COVER Bangkok After Dark By Thanakrit Skulchartchai 6 | A PRIL 2016
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84 bangkok101.com
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| metro beat
pop & rock
Tom Jones
electronic
S2O Songkran’s EDM extravaganza is back for a second splash fest, as S2O returns to RCA (Rama IX Rd) from April 1315. The lineup is stacked. Deorro headlines a busy opening day, Nicky Romero takes the decks on April 14, and the final day, April 15, features Quintino, Oliver Rosa, and, the biggest name on the bill, Afrojack. Three-day tickets are B3900 for general entry or B5900 for VIP, which includes access to a dry zone, a VIP bar and deck, a private restroom, and a separate entrance. One day passes are B1800 for general entry or B2500 for VIP. Pick up your tickets and read more at s2ofestival.com.
Famous crooner Tom Jones comes to Bangkok on April 5. “The Voice” himself is nothing short of a legend, with hits like “It’s Not Unusual” and “Sex Bomb” to his credit. Expect the crowd at Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani) to be shaking their hips as soon as the Welshman takes stage at 8.30pm. Tickets are B2500, B3500, or B4500, depending on seats, and are available at all Thai Ticket Major outlets. Visit bectero.com for more details. Later in the month, on April 28, Indy Pop Concerts brings in another electrifying outfit, Protest the Hero. The Canadian metal band took a unique tack in releasing an album recently, making Pacific Myth available to paid subscribers on Bandcamp. Their live show is fast-paced and never short on excitement. Tickets are B1000 at the door. The show takes place at The Rock Pub (Ratchathewi BTS), with the band taking stage at 8pm. For the latest news, go to facebook.com/indypopconcerts.
theatre & performance
food & drink Peranakan meets Thai as Chefs Dylan and Bo of awardwinning Bo.lan team up with Chef Malcolm Lee of Singapore’s Candlenut for The Proper Fusion, two one-of-a-kind dinners held on April 1 and 2 at Bo.lan. Expect a unique amalgamation of Southeast Asian flavours cleaving closely to tradition, but elevated by the chefs’ unique skillsets. And making this collaboration all the more mouth-watering, Chef Malcolm will lead a masterclass on April 2, discussing and showcasing his Peranakan cuisine and culture. The dinners are B3500++, and seats are in high demand. The masterclass (B980, starting at 2pm) is open to 12 guests only. To reserve a seat for either, call 0 2260 2962 or email booking@bolan.co.th. 8 | A PRIL 2016
Up Pompeii The Bangkok Community Theatre presents a live spin on the bawdy British comedy series “Up Pompeii.” The performances (probably not suitable for those under 14, what with the bawdiness and all) will be staged at the Hilton Sukhumvit Soi 24 on April 1 and 2, and again from April 7-9. Tickets are B1000, which includes a threecourse Italian buffet at the hotel. The organizers say the show is best enjoyed as a group, so book a table and bring some friends. Visit bangkokcommunitytheatre.com for more details. bangkok101.com
metro beat | CITY PULSE
songkran in the city
Songkran Festival By now, it’s fairly obvious where to get wet and wild in Bangkok during Songkran, isn’t it? One of the biggest congregations forms around Silom Road, where thousands of soapy revellers spray each other with water pistols and tip back suds and self-made cocktails; this is also the gay-friendly party, although one’s sexual preference isn’t a stipulation to having some fun here. The other “traditional” non-traditional party incorporates the gaping maw that is Khao San Road, where another huge crowd does much of the same as the crowd in Silom—spray water and drink. But if you wake early here, you might also catch some of the traditional rites of Songkran, including the washing of the Buddha image with holy water, especially if you wander over to Sanam Luang or the City Hall near the Giant Swing. For a better look at the religious and cultural elements of the holiday, visit Wongwian Yai. Here, the water fights play second fiddle to respects paid to the elderly and the Buddha. Don’t want to dive into the scrum? That’s okay. Check out CHOMP’s Songkran Splash and Dance on April 13 and 14 over at Samsen Road. There will be two days of music, dancing, water fights, and games—fun for all ages.
expos & fairs
BIG + BIH bangkok101.com
Thailand’s biggest homeware, handicraft, and creative design expo, BIG + BIH brings together hundreds of vendors, offering wholesale prices directly to buyers at BITEC (Bang Na BTS) from April 19-23. Toys, décor, pet products, premium gifts, Northern crafts, and more, all for sale under one roof, where buyers and sellers can interact and even form working relationships. The expo opens to the public on April 22 and 23, and the floor can get a little hectic then, so it’s often better to register as a buyer and attend the first two days. Go to apr2016.bigandbih.com for more information. A PRIL 2016 | 9
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| metro beat
parties & events Training Ground BKK (Sukhumvit 69) is putting on a day-long boot camp and competition dubbed Street Strength on April 2, promoting movement, style, and exercise through b-boy dancing, tricking, and a bunch of other street workouts. Expect footwork basics, capoeira instruction, and food, events, and fun all day long. Later on there will be a b-boy “7 to smoke” competition and a “2v2 7 to smoke” competition, with the winners of each taking home B10,000. Cap it all off with some beers and music spun by the resident DJs. For more details, visit facebook. com/tgbangkok.
running
Colour Miles for Smiles Raising money for Operation Smile Thailand, which provides surgeries for children born with cleft lips and palates, the student-organized Colour Miles for Smiles returns to Bangkok on April 9. A rare night run, starting at 7pm in Lumpini Park (registration and food booths open at 5pm), this one is all about fun. A different colour is thrown on runners every 1k, the end result a Holi-like rainbow of bright, non-toxic powders painted on white T-shirts. Last year, the event raised B1.5 million for the charity; the goal this year is B3.3 million. Entry is B800. Visit facebook.com/ colourmilesforsmiles for more details.
Thaitanium On April 2, Summer Carnival, the annual party put on by Rip Curl, returns to Bangkok. This year the event takes place at the parking space of A-Square (Sukhumvit Soi 26, opposite K Village). The carnival includes a massive pool, wakeboarding and flowriding, a “city beach zone” presented by Tan Magazine, the Rip Curl Bikini Girl contest, lots of food and drinks, and a huge lineup of artists and DJs, including international acts Jack Beats and GotSome. The party starts at noon and ends at midnight. Tickets are B300, which comes with one small Rip Curl towel. Visit facebook.com/ripcurlthailand for more. Now here’s something different: rap superstars Thaitanium lead an all-day hip hop boot camp at Rockademy (Sukhumvit 26) on April 3. From 10am until 6pm, the guys will share the ins and outs of the industry, from freestyling to recording and promoting. The purpose of the camp is to build Thailand’s rap scene from the ground up, and there’s no better way for rookies to learn than from the best in the business. The camps costs B5350 for a ticket, but there are many levels of packages and prizes, too, since the guys are crowdfunding the camp on the recently launched Asiola. Go to asiola.co.th to read more about the camp, as well as Thailand’s newest crowdfunding platform. 10 | A PRIL 2016
If you’ve never been to the sprawling grounds of Thammasat University in Rangsit, here is a perfect reason to do so: on April 24, the TU Run & Walk, incorporating a 3.5k walk, a 7k run, and a 14k “super mini marathon” (sic), leads runners down car-free roads as the course traces the university’s stately buildings and fields. Entry costs B300, and that includes access to ample food and drinks. Visit facebook.com/tuwalkandrun to register.
Suanpruek 10 Hour Ultra Marathon A slightly more rigorous run awaits those who have signed up for the Suanpruek 10 Hour Ultra Marathon on May 1. Held at the placid Nawamin Pirom Park out by NIDA (Sriburapha Rd, close to Ramkhamhaeng 115), the race sees participants running roughly two-kilmetre loops around a long narrow lake. But it’s not just for (daring) individual athletes. Teams of four can sign up and take turns running two and a half hour loops, trying to gain as much distance as possible. The registration filled up quickly, but slots may still be available on certain Facebook groups. If nothing else, stop by for the camaraderie. Check wingnaidee.com for more information. bangkok101.com
CITY PULSE
| my bangkok
DJ Nakadia A Thai country girl who transformed herself into nightlife nobility, DJ Nakadia has seen a meteoric rise on electronic charts the world over. She recently returned to Thailand for Kolour in the Park and opened up to Bangkok 101 before she went behind the decks. How did you discover electronic music?
On my first trip to Europe in 2002, I was taken to a techno club where Marusha was playing—one of Germany’s top DJs at the time. This was my first night with electronic music.
have great artists and events that keep things moving in the right direction. It’s great to have so many top international DJs performing all the time, but the scene can only grow with support for local talent.
At what point did you feel like, “Okay, yes, this is what I was born to do”?
That first night in Germany was also the night that I knew it. This was exactly what I was looking for in my life. After that night I had no more chances to listen to this kind of music for nearly one year, but I still had the memory with me and tried to find out more online.
What is life like in Germany for you now?
I really love it. I’ve been away from my home in Berlin for over 10 weeks now and I can’t wait to get back home next week. Berlin is the perfect city for me— except for the bad airports. I live very close to the clubs, the coolest bars and the shopping areas—I can walk nearly everywhere. The studios of the greatest artists of the scene are just around the corner, as well as the offices of Beatport, Native Instruments, and other major players of the business. I live right in the heart of the electronic music business and I love it.
What is your impression of the underground scene in Thailand?
Thailand developed very well over the past years. When I started DJing there was no chance to listen to “cool music” in Thailand and now we have clubs and events all over the country. Thailand has probably the best “underground” music scene in Asia—except for Japan. We 12 | A PRIL 2016
123-124 BPM techno tracks with such beautiful melodies.
What do you have lined up for 2016?
Last year I took 308 flights to over 130 gigs and I am already sure that this year will be even busier. My summer is just about fully booked with almost four gigs every week all over Europe. I’m really looking forward to some amazing festivals in Holland, Germany, Hungary, Serbia, Rumania, Spain, and Portugal, where I’ll be sharing stages with artists like Sven Väth, Richie Hawtin, Luciano, and Maceo Plex. On Ibiza, I will also be part of a new project called “the unusual suspects” on Thursdays at Sankeys. It will be the most exciting year for me so far.
When you go on tour, what are some essential items you have to bring with you? How did you get involved with Kolour in the Park?
I’ve been working with the Kolour crew for a few years now. I am not in Thailand so often, so I only had three chances to play for them until now. They are doing an amazing job. I just recently found out how hard it is to work as a promoter, but putting events together with the scale of Kolour in the Park just deserves massive respect. I couldn’t wait to play there.
What are you listening to now?
I have no time to listen to music other than in the clubs and while searching on Beatport. I buy all my music there and try to spend at least one hour each day on Beatport. I don’t focus on producers or labels and only go by ear. At the moment I’m happy to find so many high quality
I would never leave without my USB sticks and headphone for the performances and my iPhone and Macbook to keep the business going, and now I also carry a Go-Pro to capture the moments. I mostly fly with hand luggage only, so I have to keep the girls stuff to a minimum.
What are some of your favourite places to play in BKK?
I love the off locations, such as the Thai Wake Park [where Kolour in the Park was held]. Just recently I did a rooftop party with Sunju Hargun and it had such a beautiful ambience. I will not be often in Bangkok this year and I don’t know where my next party will be, but with so many events and new clubs opening all the time, I think I will come back to play in the city one or two more times before the end of the year. bangkok101.com
CITY PULSE
| hot plates
Black Market Bar food will never be the same once you’ve gotten it on—rather at—the Black Market By John Krich
T
he name may conjure up a dark alley, shady characters, and sawdust (or perhaps splattered blood) on the floor. In fact, the new Black Market Public House commands the front spot of the most respectable tourist mall along lower Silom, is fronted by plenty of windows and open patio areas, and, but for its exposed ceiling pipes painted black, looks like one of the more wholesome and amply comfortable spots to imbibe in Bangkok. As for the aforementioned beverage accompaniments, they are far more than the usual, predictably salty nibbles. That’s because the menu, limited in choices but not taste, has been created by Tim Butler, the experienced American chef at Eat Me (as listed among
Asia’s Best 50 Restaurants), who once described his style of cuisine as “anything that tastes good from anywhere.” As lovingly executed by Spanish head Chef Guillermo “Billy” Canicero, this is a world protein tour in which everything, even the profiterole dessert, is made from scratch. Begin with pig trotter nuggets with aioli, or even more remarkably, melt-in-your mouth croquettes that are stuffed with penang duck curry and hints of lemongrass, a burst of Thailand all in one bite (B150/4 pieces). That’s about as far as fusion goes here, though there are decidedly Mediterranean touches, as in the beautifully presented platter of cheese and charcuterie, the Iberian ham and Nduja sausage with gazpacho-like dip,
and the goat cheese accompanied by dried figs and honey. A pail full of mussels cooked with fennel and white wine also comes with tangy tomato-based sauce. There are oysters on offer, as well, plus smoked burrata and an astounding sandwich where manchego cheese melts into gelatinous hints of bone marrow and comes topped with a tart onion jam (B300 for each of the above). If that’s not enough fat, the hefty burger and thin-sliced steak are all wagyu, all the time—both superb, and at B450 for the former, B500 for the latter, it’s one-third the price it might be in Manhattan or Japan. Prosecco and wine hold court at surprisingly affordable prices, too, starting at B150 for a 150ml pour. The small menu of draft beer—Leo, Vedett White, Guinness, Brewdog Punk IPA—also takes it easy on the wallet, though maybe not as easy on the liver, at B80 (Leo) to B155 (Punk IPA) for a 300ml glass of the good stuff. If there is something vaguely illegal about the food at Black Market, it’s the amount of cholesterol made palatable. This place is clearly not for the faintof-heart valves. And it seems a bit of a challenge to the usual rules of pub grub to find just how bracing this menu is, and how much it might keep patrons from filling up on the alcohol—of course, offered in creative forms like a white rum passion fruit mojito, or the Come & Go, a mix of goji berry-infused vodka, guava juice, honey, and lime (cocktails are B150 each). Contraband flavours and fluids are all out in the open here.
Black Market Baan Silom, 887 Silom Rd 0 2266 8661 facebook.com/blackmarketpublichouse daily 4pm-1am 14 | A PR I L 2016
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hot plates | CITY PULSE
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| best of bkk
Bangkok After Dark From Dusk to Dawn in the City of Angels
6pm: Sathorn Bangkok is a city of eaters—so much so that it borders on the obsessive. In times of public protest, the people eat. In excruciating heat and monsoon rains, they move inside to canteens to chow down on som tam and sticky rice. And when the daily diaspora of office workers freshly off-the-clock begins at 6pm, collars blue and white are suddenly distinguished not by income bracket or accessories, but rather culinary tastes and distastes. Especially on Fridays. A certain portion of the rank and file squeezes into already packed trains at the BTS, alighting at inner-city hubs and filling up at BBQ Plazas, mall bistros, and ramen joints while others head home to primp for dinner dates at Bangkok’s upmarket offerings. But the city is at its most diverse and dynamic on the sidewalks, like those along 16 | A PRIL 2016
Naradhiwas Road in Sathorn, where red folding tables bow under the weight of Leo bottles, ice buckets, and clay pots that bubble with herbs and broth. Each night, people from practically every working class migrate to the streetside mortars and pestles to feast on humble Isaan food with friends.
7.30pm: Saphan Taksin The city is more active than its daytime façade suggests. It’s not uncommon to see pick-up basketball, acrobatic matches of takraw, and massive dance aerobic sessions going on in the city’s parks at night—even its non-parks, like the block of asphalt in front of National Stadium. Sports and exercise tend to take place during those fleeting hours when the sun’s heat has all but disappeared and the humidity has yet to intensify. Joggers trace complex loops on
concrete paths. Burly, often shirtless men pump rusty iron on public bench presses and squat racks. Couples go for walks along the river, watching hotel boats scuttle from shore to shore. Yet it’s all a bit like theatre. During a recurring football match beneath the Taksin Bridge, which happens nearly every day, security lights rain an incandescent white on the pitch, illuminating players scuffling up and down a stretch of riverside that can be terrifying late at night when it’s dark and empty. But for a few hours, young and middle-aged men—high school students, tuk tuk drivers, security guards, even the odd foreigner—gather to blow off steam as the night settles in.
8pm: Phrom Pong Walk carefully past the go-go bars and massage parlours. Find the right bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE The city’s creative types flock to Smalls after midnight
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CITY PULSE
| best of bkk
Night-time painting sessions take place at Paintbar each week
Rabbit Hole
24-hour productivity door to knock. The Friese-Greene Club on Sukhumvit 22 is easy to miss. If you aren’t a member, you might not know it’s there, in a dead-end soi past the shell of the former Queen’s Park Hotel. At this secret-ish club, movie buffs gather for 8pm screenings in the 9-seat cinema on the second-floor cinema. These independent, classic, and cult films are afterward discussed over drinks. The night provides release, the most obvious in the form of a bottle. But options do exist in the city—even when it seems like the only thing to do is go clubbing. The FrieseGreene Club, as well as other places screening indie films, including JAM, Bangkok Open-Air Cinema Club, and the FCCT, offer intelligent ways to spend a night away from parties.
8.30pm: Sathorn While the movie still screens in the FSG, a tiny venue in Sathorn fills. Nearly every night, small groups get together and channel their artistic potential into projects at the Joy Ruk Club (ruk as in “love”). At the same 18 | A PRIL 2016
“The bar scene in Bangkok has begun to form its own subcultures, too. Night prowlers now find their way to places like Studio Lam on Sukhumvit 51, where molam and various forms of funk take musical tastes beyond pop and hip hop.” time, photographers set up tripods on the Chong Nonsi Bridge, taking shots destined for stock libraries of the Empire Tower, front-lit by neon ads and stark white lights. Creativity comes in many forms, none of which are bound by hours. Some writers notoriously stay up nights, scribbling away until dawn. In Phrom Phong every Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday night, aspiring painters get their brushes wet at Paintbar Bangkok. Poetry slams, drawing sessions (even nude), and club meetups happen at bars and cafés each night, the city’s subcultures shaping society from the foundation up after business hours.
11pm-1am: Thong Lo-Ekamai In the city, you can’t read the stars, so you follow the light in the palm of
your hand. Phones illuminate the way as text messages declare where to be now, where to go later. Selfies, black dresses, men with undercut hairstyles, friends using “party” as a verb. Thong Lo’s miracle mile of bars and clubs cater to the high society with house music and high-cost drinks. Further down Thong Lo and Ekamai, however, places like Shades of Retro, J. Boroski, Tuba, Moose, and Rabbit Hole invite conversationalists, hipsters, and people with a thirst for well-crafted drinks. The hours pass, and still they remain seated, eating free popcorn or chatting with the bartender. But the bar scene in Bangkok has begun to form its own subcultures, too. Night prowlers now find their way to places like Studio Lam on Sukhumvit 51, where molam (a kind of Thai roots music) and various bangkok101.com
STUNNING AL FRESCO VIEWS
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CITY PULSE
| best of bkk
The Friese-Green Club screens cult and classic films in its intimate, 9-seat cinema each night
forms of funk take musical tastes beyond pop and hip hop and charting EDM. Taking Soi Ekamai across Petchburi Road leads to Parking Toys’ Watt, where local folk, synth, hard rock, and Thai roots bands play live all night, almost threatening to stay on stage until dawn. And in Chinatown’s Soi Nana, ya dong and luk krung are the weapons of choice at Tep Bar while 23 Bar blurs the lines between nightlife and art.
2.15am: Rama IV, Suan Phlu Midnight is long gone, but the action is just beginning. At Too Fast to Sleep, a surprisingly packed house eschews pillows for papers and sets aside beer bottles for espressos. Students and bookworms and those just plain bored with nightlife turn their attention to work to finish. Back behind Suan Phlu, another 24-hour café/entrepreneurial starting point called Think Tank suggests that the best ideas in Bangkok are not happening in an office, but rather in a much freer environment, where ideas can shift and bounce at any time of 20 | A PRIL 2016
day. Co-working spaces are not on the rise; they’ve already risen. Start-ups such as GrabBike and HipFlat have changed the way the city considers fundamental things, like shopping and transport and property rental. Hierarchical structures have crumbled. The 9-5 shackles have been removed.
3am: Suan Phlu, Surasak Complex and diverse, often separated by distance and industry, the city’s creative types come together most nights at Smalls. It’s as fitting an end-point for a late-night odyssey as any. Falling neatly between ramshackle shophouse and über-chic art bar, Smalls itself is run by a former photographer and a celebrated French artist and architect. Great ideas may or may not occur here—even when they do, they may never see the light of day—but the atmosphere speaks to the curious connection many artists share in their bohemian preferences and habits. On the corner of Sathorn and Charoen Rat, chefs from upscale restaurants cap off another dinner
service with their own dinner at a tumble-down Isaan place called Laab Ubol. Salt-coated fish reveals tender flesh. Som tam revives lost energy. The street chefs now serve the restaurant staff, turning the wheel over with a great meal for weary workers.
4.30am: Khlong Toey The city’s cogs—those in full view but nevertheless reside on the margins— fire up their engines. Before sunrise, Khlong Toey market is crawling with food vendors, flower weavers, and tuk tuk drivers awaiting passengers. Vegetables and meat make for an awful smell this early, but the show goes on. By morning, this population of predawn rummagers will have cooked their curries, communed with dead, and readied their souls for another 24 hours. As the night owls return to roost, one day ends and another begins as the morning brings business. That’s the beauty of Bangkok, a colony of disparate minds and constant motion. And to truly understand it, you’ve got to stay awake. bangkok101.com
CITY PULSE
| out & about
Taking it slow on Yaowarat Road
22 | A PRIL 2016
bangkok101.com
out & about | CITY PULSE
The City by Bike at Night Co van Kessel Offers a Welcome New Perspective of Bangkok By Julia Offenberger
I
n this big, hot, diverse city, full of moving parts and places to explore, discovery is often best achieved by bike. Travelling on two wheels affords the luxury of easy acceleration. It even comes with a cool, self-powered breeze that only improves at night, when the temperatures drop ever so slightly. No sweat-stained shirts or worn-out soles—nor the hazards of motorized motion—just convenient access to backstreets with the liberty to stop at your leisure. So what better way to see the lesser-seen sights than with a bike tour at night? For that, I recently turned to Co van Kessel. Founded by a Dutchman, who had been taking people on tours of the city for over twenty years before setting up his own operation in 2005, Co van Kessel was one of the first, if not the bangkok101.com
Our bikes line the pier
A PRIL 2016 | 23
CITY PULSE
| out & about
The constantly buzzing Pak Khlong Talad, or Flower Market
Ping, our guide first, company to offer bicycle tours in Bangkok. It started with just eight bikes and one tour, catering mainly to corporate events. Thanks to word-ofmouth marketing, a lot has changed since then. Today, Co van Kessel claims around 50 people on staff and offers seven tours a day, every day of the week. Just after 5.30pm, I arrive at the prominently yellow office at River City and am immediately welcomed by Co-founder and General Manager Chanmanee “Nong” Phonpakdee. While the “Co Classical” and the “Co Combo” tours are the best-sellers, Nong explains that the Night Bike Tour—Co van Kessel’s most recent addition—is getting increasingly popular. I’m told only a very minor portion of our tour will be spent on the main road—“Three to five per cent,” says Nong—while the rest of the time we will be guided through Bangkok’s narrow network of sois and troks 24 | A PRIL 2016
“Ping tells us that, while we have doubtless already gained a new perspective of Bangkok, our next stop will take us even further into the ‘real’ Bangkok.” (a smaller kind of soi, if that’s even possible).“Our guides have Google Maps in their head,” she reassures us. But in the off-chance we get lost, my fellow riders and I are equipped with a high-visibility vest and helmet, so we’ll be safe and sound. After a short safety-talk by our guide, Ping, about a dozen other cyclists and I are ready to hit the road, pedalling toward Chinatown. Feeling as if I had just cycled out of the streets of Amsterdam with my city bike, I soon realize Thailand is not The Netherlands as I just manage to avoid running over a cat and hitting a wall before we stop at a Chinese temple. A young man with an everpresent smile, Ping explains some
Thai-Chinese religious customs at the temple. After walking around and taking a few photos, I briefly chat with Ping. He says he has been leading bike tours for five months, and his bouncy bearing suggests he clearly enjoys his job. “It’s great to be able to work and exercise at the same time,” he jokes. Back in the saddle, we carefully make our way down busy Yaowarat Road, through a crowded market, and back into a tiny soi. Children on the street wave as we ride past. The loitering teenagers, not so much, although I do notice more than a few smiles and giggles. All around us are locals going about their evening business as we ride onward, finally bangkok101.com
out & about | CITY PULSE The first stop: a Thai-Chinese temple called the Kuan Yim Shrine
reaching our next stop: the Flower Market. Again our guide gives us some colourful anecdotes as we walk through the busy bazaar before continuing our tour around the alleys of the Old Town. Pedalling past the Grand Palace, we stop at Sanam Luang, the royal field that, when not being used for official ceremonies, becomes a sporting ground and place for flying kites. At night, it provides a fantastic view of the brightly lit palace. Ping tells us that, while we have doubtless already gained a new perspective of Bangkok, our next stop will take us even further into the “real” Bangkok. Cycling over Memorial Bridge— with a quick stop to snap shots of Wat Arun—we reach the other side of the river, Thonburi. Once the centre of the capital, it’s now where a lot of Bangkokians live, thanks to its cheaper costs of living. After all this exercise, we are ready for some bangkok101.com
snacks—and this is when its gets really local. Ping and his assistant, North, order dumplings filled with pork, chicken wantons, and ginger soup for us to try, all of which is capped with some artery-clogging (but oh-so-satisfying) deep-fried ice cream. It strikes me that the team behind Co van Kessel really tries their best to keep their promise to take you off the beaten track and experience local Bangkok. With our food devoured and the obligatory picture with one of the stall owners taken, we hop back on our bikes and race down one soi after another, until we end up back at the mighty Chao Phraya River. From there a longtail boat takes us and our bikes back to where we started, giving us a
fantastic view of the river at night. After three hours of exercise, moderate sweating, and a couple of good photo-ops, I’m ready for bed. Although I live in Bangkok and have seen most of the places we’ve visited before, I have to admit that I still re-experienced them in a different way and learned something far beyond the basic “sawadee ka.” For a moment, I became a part of these local communities. Whether you’re a tourist, new expat, or honestto-goodness Bangkokian, Co van Kessel’s Night Bike Tour is worth joining. Even when you’re close to the star attractions, you might just find yourself in the middle of nowhere, with an entirely new perspective of this dynamic city.
Co van Kessel offers various bike, boat, and walking tours of the city, and for more than reasonable prices. To explore the list of options and sign up for a tour, visit covankessel.com. A PRIL 2016 | 25
CITY PULSE
| on the block
Le CafĂŠ des Stagiaires
Hanakaruta
Not Just Another Cup
Revolucion
Marcel
Sathorn 10 and 12
Right Here, Right Now
Rocket 26 | A PRIL 2016
Supanniga
Kai bangkok101.com
on the block | CITY PULSE
I
t was almost like a self-fulfilling prophecy. After Rocket Coffee Bar opened in 2013, it seemed the whole city was caught up in how the horseshoe-shaped Sathorn 10 and 12 were The Next Big Thing. And then…nothing followed. At least not immediately. Good thing no one wrote off the sois, because they’re finally living up to the hype and then some. Behind the latest openings in this modestly packed community, Sathorn’s sois are hotter than ever. Leafy and wide-avenued and just residential enough to maintain a sense of serenity at certain hours, Sathorn 10 and 12 are about as ideal for piazza-style dining and drinking as any city street. Start with the revamped Sorrento, which offers quality Italian food and drinks served on the patio or inside in a rather tony atmosphere. Within earshot of Sorrento is the colourful Revolucion. While the patio would make for a pleasant venue for after-work cocktails, the bar truly comes alive later at night, often doing shut-ins until the wee hours of the morning. In any case, don’t miss the signature cocktails—expensive, yes, but worth the price tag. And keep an eye out for its soon-to-open secondfloor restaurant, Clandestino Cantina. Across the street from Revolucion sits one of the newest members of the Sathorn 10 circle, Not Just
Another Cup. Coffee beans come by way of Pacamara and Ceresia, and brunch-time dishes like creamy avocado toast with poached egg and fruity French toast give ample reason to bum around on a slow Saturday morning. Further up the street are a few places more suited to the night, starting with bar and restaurant Marcel, a small shophouse that serves exquisite French cuisine and surprisingly excellent cocktails. Next door, Hanakaruta covers another part of the global gastro spectrum, doing seriously good whisky high balls and plum wines with Japanese bar food. It’s always packed, and with good reason—it’s laid-back, lots of fun, and pocket-friendly. And so is its neighbour, the superlative Supanniga Eating Room. Order cabbage stir-fried in fish sauce and moo cha muang and be glad you did. As the soi swoops around and becomes Sathorn 12, the food and drink options branch out even further. At the previously mentioned Rocket, the coffee is second to none, and the fresh selections on the menu are only topped by the café’s cool Scandinavian design. Sapparot-owned UNCLE and Lady Brett next door make this little shophouse kuha a three-headed monster—go to Rocket in the morning, Lady Brett for a top-shelf tomahawk at dinner, and finish up with some of the
finest mixed drinks in town at the sort of secretive UNCLE. Down the road, next door to home décor shop Abode, are Kai and Le Café des Stagiaires. The Kiwi-driven Kai makes a mean fish and chips, which can be washed down with New Zealand beer, and the ultra-chic Café des Stagiaires has become a preferred post-work haunt. But it’s much more than a parquet-floored hipster hangout. The second and third floor have been primped and polished and turned into Chicon, an upscale casual restaurant serving Gallic cuisine and cocktails, bespoke or signature, shaken by a barman who knows his spirits. And now, at the corner of Sathorn 12, next to The Address condominium, stands the muchanticipated project from Tim Butler and partners, Bunker. After some ups and downs, the project is finally ready to open in April. Expect craft beer on draft supplied by Hopsession and global cuisine prepared by star chef Arnie Marcella, including some amazing lechon. The soi’s promise is finally being fulfilled. And it doesn’t end with food and cocktails. H Gallery has brought culture to the block, and a soon-toopen boutique spa will join Health Land in offering extra incentive to visit—or, better yet, to move in to one of the condos.
Restaurant Bar
a itthay eksa WSupanniga
Soi Su
Café Bunker
Art Space Shop Hotel
Sorrento
Spa & Wellness
Eating Room Hanakaruta
Marcel
Rocket UNCLE
Lady Brett
Abode Kai Chicon
H Gallery Le Café des Stagiaires
Sorrento ath Soi S
Clandestino Cantina Revolucion
Not Just Another Cup
e on Nu a 10
ea 12
hon Nu Soi Sat
ea Rd
n Nu
Health Land
Satho
n Tai
Satho
Rd
Abode bangkok101.com
A PRIL 2016 | 27
CITY PULSE
| hotel review
W Hotel Bangkok Style High in the Sathorn
O
pen a little less than three years, the W Hotel Bangkok is now firmly entrenched in the city’s landscape. But that doesn’t mean its allure has gone stale or its perks have become routine. Quite the contrary. The W ranks among the most innovative and distinctive design hotels in the capital. It always has. And, most amazingly, it might just be hitting its stride. The elements that make the W so special appear immediately. Once inside, to the left of the entry is Woobar, the hotel’s posh place-tobe, where a DJ sets up on the deep purple carpet each night and crafty drink deals draw in locals looking for fresh spins on Friday nights—or any night, for that matter, seeing as how there are different promotions Monday to Sunday. To the right is a spiral staircase lined with dangling, faux drinks in plastic bags, a ubiquitous image in Bangkok, one that bridges income brackets and social classes. And straight ahead, behind the checkin counter, is a mosaic featuring Muay Thai imagery, including a dragon and tiger, both of which are often tattooed on fighters as symbols of strength and grit. Even Woobar boasts traces of Muay Thai, with its VIP room separated by velvet fighting ropes. The W was designed to express aspects of local culture. That toes the party line of the global brand, which reimagines traditions through sumptuous interiors and cuttingedge design elements. In Bangkok, that means sparkly, sequined throw cushions in the shape of boxing gloves; holographic crocodile skin furnishings
28 | A PRIL 2016
at The Kitchen Table, invoking “Krai Thong,” a classic Thai folk tale; a Hanuman graphic at the entry to the FIT gym; poolside graffiti put up by local artist Alexface; and a wall of flashing tuk tuk lights that looks like a prop from “Close Encounters of the Third Kind.” All of this enlightens guests to the hotel’s inimitable style and spirit. Sure, certain décor recalls Thai boxing, but it does so with a cosmopolitan self-awareness, blending the masculine and the feminine with no small degree of panache. The rooms, of which there are 403 with equally superlative titles, such as the 244 Wonderful Rooms, the 106 Spectacular Rooms, the 10 Marvelous Suites, and the one Extreme Wow Suite, speak to the city’s chaotic coexistence of contemporary and quaint ways of living: skyscrapers shading shrines, suits and ties seated at streetside stalls, a rabbit warren of choked alleyways illuminated by neon. Human shadows dance behind the translucent, coloured glass planks that serve as dividers in each room. Lights dim and sharpen within purple stones. The carpet feels plush, the bed even plusher, and the latest technology amplifies from the stay. The vibe is at once playful, seductive, and extravagant. Or, in a word, cool. Matching the comfort and class of the accommodation is the quality of the W’s outlets. In particular, the food and drinks at The Kitchen Table. Here, the cuisine could be described as transcontinental, leaning heavily toward Thai flavours with the introduction of Indian and East Asian influences. Particularly delicious are the Thai
yellow curry with crab (legs included) and a pork belly lettuce wrap served with spicy gochujang, a Korean curry paste. All goes well with one of the restaurant’s signature drinks (Woohito, anyone?), as well as one of the many gin and tonics, which are so massive they may as well be served in fishbowls. In the morning, the restaurant serves a solid selection of brunch items, including freshly made pastries from The Kitchen Pantry, and is widely popular with locals as well as guests. The FIT gym features nearly 150 square metres of exercise space, with an airy floor plan allowing muchneeded breathing room. Just outside is the eyeball-shaped pool (as seen from the bird’s eye view). At night, it twinkles with fibre-optic lights. And music can still be heard underwater through high-tech speakers. It’s as slick as any facility in town. No wonder on Saturdays the poolside plays the gracious host to a boozy Chandon and beer party from noon until 4pm and then a BBQ from 4pm until 8pm, featuring a resident DJ. And, of course, there’s Woobar, with its weekly girls gone wild night (free flow bubbles), men’s night (free flow Chang), and more, all of which are well-advertised throughout the hotel. With fun in-house deals, a serious guest-oriented focus, and cuttingedge design and installations, the W Hotel Bangkok has service and stays down to a stylish science.
W Hotel Bangkok 106 North Sathorn Rd 0 2344 4000 whotelbangkok.com bangkok101.com
hotel review | CITY PULSE
bangkok101.com
A PRIL 2016 | 29
CITY PULSE
| making merit
Bangkok
Charity Orchestra Classical Music for a Cause
T
he link between classical music and well-being has been wellestablished. But music also holds the key to enhancing life on a more holistic level. Cue the Bangkok Charity Orchestra, or BCO for short, a fundraising effort created by Conductor Chulayuth Lochotinan, who “moonlights” as the Managing Director and Country Manager at MoneyGuru. co.th. Holding a Masters in Engineering Science from Oxford University, Chulayuth has already worked with numerous orchestras and concertfundraisers across the UK in his career. Six years ago, he brought the concept home, launching the Bangkok Charity Orchestra, the first orchestra committed to raising funds for charities in Thailand. The BCO also promotes classical music in the country, creating a platform and network for aspiring musicians. Since the first concert in March 2010, the orchestra has raised around B16 million for charity. It also won the Thomas Reuters Community Award in 2011. The BCO mostly supports charities that help underprivileged children, people with disabilities, and victims of natural disasters in Thailand. The orchestra has raised money to help construct an activity centre for the Foundation for Children, to provide 30 | A PRIL 2016
wheelchairs for people through WAFCAT, and to offer eye operations through the People Eye Care Foundation. Additionally, the BCO has collaborated with the Rotary Club of Bangkok in its annual fundraising events. The BCO has also got involved with international causes, such as relief efforts following the earthquake in Nepal or the victims of the 2011 tsunami in Japan. The orchestra usually performs three to four concerts per year, depending on the charity project, as well as sponsors and their availabilities. The next show will be held later this year, featuring the winner of the Thailand Steinway Competition, a young musicians’ contest Chulayuth has organised since 2012. The orchestra is open to all musicians, regardless of age, nationality, or background. “We try to be as inclusive as we can,” explains Chulayuth. “[And so] we neither
audition nor have a fixed number of places for membership.” As a guideline, members are expected to have achieved ABRSM Grade 8 or equivalent. Since the beginning, over 650 musicians have performed with the charity orchestra, typically 80-100 participating per concert. As 100 per cent of the proceeds from ticket sales go to charity, all musicians are performing on a volunteer basis. “Not everyone is willing to do this and no one is forced to join, but many who perform with us find it a worthwhile and rewarding experience,” says Chulayuth. The music performed by the BCO is quite diverse, ranging from classical to pop. “We don’t have a fixed repertoire, as different musicians take part in each concert, so we usually start rehearsals from scratch,” explains Chulayuth. “I try to select an enjoyable and approachable programme that would be fun for musicians to perform and the audience to watch.”
While the orchestra usually starts rehearsing one month before the concert (mainly on weekends), the process of organising a concert takes around three months. After deciding what charity project to support, the BCO must find sponsors to help defray operating costs before it can set a date, start recruiting musicians, and rehearse. The BCO relies mostly on corporate sponsorships. The public can support the cause by attending concerts, making donations at event, or volunteering at the concert to minimise expenses. Musicians who are interested in joining the BCO can leave their details on charitiyorchestra.org or chulayuth.com. bangkok101.com
making merit | CITY PULSE
bangkok101.com
A PRIL 2016 | 31
SNAPSHOTS
| insight
The North remembers its long history, imprinting its colourful legacy in the modern age
More on the North
Tom’s Two Satang B Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
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oth Thai and overseas visitors flock to the North during cool season and when festivals are taking place. Selfies get snapped at sacred sanctuaries. Blooming flowers are bombarded by tourists wanting pretty photos. Tents take over mountain camp grounds like wildly growing weeds. Queues for khao soi at local restaurants spill into the streets, where traffic is jammed all the way to main roads. Is Northern beauty in peril? Do we love the North to death? Despite what modernity brings to the fore, Northern art and culture still charm visitors. Its vernacular architecture, visible in both homes and temples, is uniquely enchanting. Simple houses made from woven bamboo slits look like giant baskets. Some are thatched with bai dtong
dtung, or dried teak leaves. The cross-shaped Kalae, or Ghalair, characteristic of Northern construction, wards off bad spirits. At the top of door frames, hamyont, a lintel piece, does the same. Although traditional houses are vanishing, Dr. Chulathat Kitibutr, a national artist in architecture, has incorporated their elements into his contemporary designs. For over 700 years in Chiang Mai, wat, or temples, were gloriously built next to one another. Architecture of faith had its boom time in the medieval period. Among the most significant, historically and artistically speaking, are Wat Chiang Mun, which was the first built in the area; Wat Phra Singha, the most beautifully proportioned; Wat Umong for its mural-painted tunnels; Wat Chedi Jed Yod for its laterite bangkok101.com
insight | SNAPSHOTS stupas; Wat Suan Dok for its grand hall and royal memorials; and Wat Phra That Doi Suthep for its much venerated stupa. In neighbouring provinces, less visited temples with rare beauty include Wat Phra That Lampang Luang in Lampang for its architectural style, Wat Phra That Hariphunchai in Lamphun for its distinctive stupa and the legendary beauty Queen Camadevi, Wat Phumin in Nan for its mural paintings, Wat Baan Goh in Lampang for its folksy paintings, and many Burmese-influenced temples in Mae Hong Son. Traditionally, as mainly monks and men were allowed on the temple grounds, many became sa-lhaa, or artists or craftsmen, who worked on these temples and palaces. They didn’t only learn the Buddhist teachings but also the art of painting, sculpture, woodcarving, stencils, and more. And so the North has become an artists’ enclave. In Chiang Rai, behold the gleaming white temple of Wat Rongkhun by Chalermchai Kositpipat, be awestruck by Baan Dum, the all-black artist’s abode by the late Thawan Duchanee, and calm down in Doi Din Daeng, Somluck Pantiboon’s serene ceramics studio. Contemporary artists have sought refuge in Chiang Mai. Thaiwijit Peungkasemsomboon continues his work there while Rirkrit Tiravanija started the Land Project. Kamin Lertchaiprasert houses his 31st Century Museum in containers on an empty plot. Local artists like Srijai Kanthawang, Limpikorn Makaew, Gade Chawanalikikorn, Navin Rawanchaikul, and Kitikong Wattanotai all celebrate local culture through their distinct interpretations. Creativity seems to run in the Northerners’ veins, as craft-making and design are prolific. Traditional arts and crafts are still prominent, including the classic mulberry-paper umbrellas in Bor Srang, silverware on Wua Lai Road, and ceramics and celadon all over the region. Ever since the modern Asian look became trendy in the 90s, Northern-made furniture and homeware collections for local consumption and export have unceasingly flourished. Textiles from the North stand out for their textures, colours, and bangkok101.com
craftsmanship. Ikat silks are woven with tie-dyed threads on the warp side. Soft indigo-dyed cotton gets its beautiful colour from hom leaves in Phrae. From Mae Jaem, tube skirts or hip wrappers with intricate dteen jok, or end borders, are highly sought-after collectibles. Throughout the region, hilltribe textiles incorporate all kinds of techniques, from embroidery to appliqué and batik. The North is equally rich in performance art. Graceful dancers, with their iconic long fingernails and their palms holding flat, lit candles, glide as they perform the fon; meanwhile, a young man plays a pin bpia pressed against his chest as he courts the maiden. Literature like Lilit Phra Law, a version of Romeo & Juliet with two Juliets, was inspired by Northern lore and penned in the Ayutthaya Period. In a more contemporary story, Sao Khruea Fah, an interpretation of Madama Butterfly, confirms the loyalty and innocence of a Northern girl who falls in love with a military cadet from Bangkok. “Khon Phukhao,” or “The Mountain Folks,” is an award-winning film from the 80s, displaying the plights of the hilltribes. Northern food is much beloved— and so is its most common ingredient, pork. A typical khan dtoke, a meal
served on a low table, is comprised of sticky rice served with nahm prig num (smoked eggplant relish), nahm prig ong (minced pork and tomato relish), nhaem (cured pork sausage), sai ua (spicy pork sausage), jihn mhoo (fried pork chops), and khaeb mhoo (crispy pork rinds). Khao soi, the famous egg noodles in curry topped with crispy noodles, actually came from the Haw Chinese, who are Muslim, so an authentic bowl of it should come with chicken or beef. Khanom jeen nahm ngiew, fermented rice noodles with a broth rich in pork ribs, minced pork, and blood, is named after a key ingredient, dok ngew, dried flowers from the kapok tree. Ghaeng hunglae, one of my favourite curries, featuring pork belly braised in a hardy curry made with cinnamon and nutmeg, among other spices, originates from Myanmar. On Doi Ang Khang, where opium once grew, the Royal Project produces fresh and packaged food, fruits, and flowers under Doi Kham labels. Coffee aficionados countrywide sip brews made with Doi Tung beans. And the Mae Fah Luang Foundation fashionably furnishes homes and wardrobes in Bangkok and abroad. Northern culture knows no bounds anymore.
Colourful hilltribe fabrics
Lanna architecture
Northern delicacies A PRIL 2016 | 33
SNAPSHOTS
| highlight
Photo Credit: Darkle
Soho Comes to Bangkok Deck: Bars, galleries, and creative types transform Chinatown’s Soi Nana
Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. 34 | A PRIL 2016
R
ecently I spent an afternoon and evening strolling and drinking my way through the Soi NaNa Craft + Jumble Trail, the third in a series of home-grown street festivals focused on the southeast corner of Prom Prap Sattru Phai district in Chinatown, just a 10-minute walk west of Hua Lamphong Railway Station. The opening of several bars and public galleries within the last three years alone has put the neighbourhood on the map and made Soi Nana a Bangkok media darling. In fact the area has been steadily heading towards an urban-tropical interpretation of early 1970s New York Soho for the last 15 years. Thai and expat artists seeking convenient live-
work spaces were the first to move in, attracted by old shophouses with high ceilings, lots of natural light, and low rents. The first outsiders to take over a shophouse to use it for something other than pure commerce—Chinese herbal pharmacies and sign-making businesses dominated for most of the 20th century—were Thai photographer Nopadon Kaosam-ang and his wife Klaomas Yipintsoi, who opened About Studio/About Café in a century-old, two-story building at 402408 Maitrichit Road in 1998. About Studio/About Café was ahead of its time. It soon became known as one of the best venues in the capital for Thai contemporary art happenings, but if you dropped by for bangkok101.com
highlight | SNAPSHOTS coffee during the day you might find yourself the only customer. By 2006, when my now-defunct band The Tonic Rays shot publicity photos there, its days as a café-gallery were done, and it was only occasionally being used for events. The fact that Maitrichit Road was—and still is, to a large extent— lined with flophouses whose doorways framed nodding junkies and cut-rate prostitutes has always deterred folks from more genteel parts of town. Today a children’s day care facility has taken over the former About Studio/ About Café. Meanwhile Klaomas and Nopadon are busy restoring an old Straits Settlement shophouse in downtown Songkhla to host an art museum which is due to open later this year. Soi Nana, a 300-metre lane running southwest between Maitrichit and Charoeng Krung roads, took over from where About Studio/About Café left off. Expat Jim Brewer, also known by his artist handle Darkle, found a shophouse to his liking in a quiet subsoi off Soi Nana, taking up residence in 2002. “I spent weeks roaming the streets, meticulously photographing the facades of shophouses all over the district and filing them away, just to make sure I hadn’t missed a better spot,” says Brewer. “My shophouse has a certain romance that’s not part of the advertised dream for most upper-middle class Bangkokians. The building creaks, groans, breathes and sweats of its own accord. But one loves it that way. Living on the edge of Chinatown is rawer, more real. It’s social documentary rather than soap opera.” It’s no coincidence that the soi bears the same name as the LittleArabia-meets-red-light Nana area along lower Sukhumvit. Much of the property in both neighbourhoods (as well as in Khlong San across the river) is owned by the Nana family, successful descendants of Muslim Gujarati immigrants who not only prospered in business but also developed strong royal and political connections. Lek Nana, known as the “landlord of Bangkok” because of his extensive land holdings, co-founded the Democrat Party and served in various prominent government posts bangkok101.com
before he passed away at the age of 85 in 2010. The 15 local shops and galleries participating in the third Soi NaNa Craft + Jumble Trail represent a new generation of residents, both Thai and international, who are changing the neighbourhood’s public image by bringing business here. Spain’s Victor Hierro, who left a Madrid advertising firm to travel Asia more than a decade ago, moved in to Soi Nana in 2013. Although originally he intended only to reside there, Hierro and his Thai wife, who had mastered Spanish cooking while living in Madrid for six years, opened tapas bar El Chiringuito on the ground floor of a shophouse as an experiment. Hierro, along with fellow Spaniard David Fernandez, later co-founded an arts venue called Cho Why in a large corner shophouse further up the soi towards Maitrichit Road. The week of the street fest, Cho Why hosted a workshop and exhibition led by photographer Walter Astrada. On the Sunday of the festival, Let The Boy Die served their signature beer Golden Coins, while Finca de Barn and Mad Moa provided coffee and food on the ground and upper floors. Baan Yok, in a shophouse adjacent to El Chiringuito, is Hierro’s latest venture. Five guest rooms decorated with Chinese and Vietnamese antiques, but with a Spanish flair, go for B850 to B500 a night. Meanwhile Baan Yok’s ground floor has been converted into a restaurant serving Spanish cuisine. Like El Chiringuito it’s only open Thursday to Sunday from 6pm to midnight. On living in Chinatown, Hierro says “It’s noisy, hot, and crazy, but on the other hand it’s a real neighbourhood, a village really. We buy everything we need locally, so I rarely go anywhere else in Bangkok.” Bar23, which for seven years livened up Sukhumvit Soi 16 with its reasonably priced drinks, minimal décor, rootsy artwork, and a magnificent selection of rock n’ roll recordings, occupies another renovated shophouse on the soi. The heart and soul of the bar-cum-gallery is artist and rock DJ Mongkol “Go” Sanla, who moved shop to Soi Nana less than a year ago. The most casual
venue on Soi Nana, Bar23 offers space for art and photo exhibitions on two floors. It’s open every night except Monday. “I moved Bar23 because I wanted a fresh start,” says Go. “The scene is new here, you can still feel the raw power. I love the local ambience and the unique characters running around. Plus it’s a lot cheaper than Sukhumvit.” Former ad-man Kong Lertkangwarnklai runs Tep Bar in a 1920-vintage building that once served as a location for Oliver Stone’s “Heaven and Earth.” The name is an abbreviation of Krung Thep, the Thai name for Bangkok, and the theme is retro Thai. Cocktails are fashioned around Thai herb-infused liquors, and a small piphat ensemble plays Thai classical and fusion most evenings. “My clientele is about 70 per cent Thai, 30 per cent farang,” says Kong. “The younger generation these days sees Thai-ness as old-fashioned, so we present it in a casual, stream-lined package that blends well with modern life.” Anikamon Moni has lived in Soi Nana with her DJ/painter husband Justin Mills for the last nine years. I paid a visit to their rustic live-work space to listen to her opinions on where the neighbourhood was going. “The first generation of residents in Soi Nana, those who have been here over 30 years, accepted the second generation quite readily because all we do is live and work here. We don’t do business, and we have no public face,” she says. “Now that a third generation has moved in during the last three years to open bars, restaurants, and galleries, Soi Nana is no longer the quiet back soi it once was. But the original residents are still pretty accepting. The challenge is to keep these three generations living in harmony side by side. Noise levels are definitely an issue with the older residents, but so far so good.” Darkle says change in faddish Soi Nana is inevitable. “That’s Bangkok. It was photo stickers, roti buns, and Krispy Kremes, and then fixedgear bikes and beards and vintage markets—with many more moves in between—and who knows what next?” A PRIL 2016 | 35
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| highlight
Photo Credit: Virasute Angkatavanich 36 | A PRIL 2016
bangkok101.com
highlight | SNAPSHOTS This tale and many others come from the author of Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Sex, Crime and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourist attractions.
Through a Thai Lens In elegant images of long-finned Siamese fighting fish, one Thai artist is keeping this tradition afloat
W
hen the iPhone 6 debuted to thunderous hoopla, a Thai photographer stole a few decibels of that thunder by having his images of Siamese fighting fish appear as the phone’s wallpaper. For Virasute Angkatavanich this was another new peak to scale in his ascendance from viral sensation on the Internet to a more mainstream mogul of the advertising and art worlds in but a few short years. He politely declined to talk about his deal with Apple, but he was much more voluble when it came to sharing his passion for the fish that are his muse and main subject matter. Not unlike many other Thai boys of his generation, he kept them as pets in
Bizarre
Thailand
Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) and On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin tales of rock ‘n’ punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway (2016). Check jimalgie.com for more. bangkok101.com
glass bottles. Famously nippy and territorial, the fish have to be kept in separate containers. Though the short-finned strain is used as combatants in gambling matches all over Southeast Asia, Virasute has focused on the longfinned kind. Bred for their shapes and iridescent colors, they are called pla kat jeen (literally “Chinese biting fish”) for their long fins have been likened to the robes of a Chinese emperor, billowing out as they swim around in slow circles. Combining his background in graphic design and commercial photography, Virasute spent a lot of time choosing the fish and waiting for them to come into the frame lit by a light and flash above the tank. The focal point is the fish themselves. The water and tank are invisible. The backgrounds of the photos are either wholly black or solely white. Aside from their elegance and technical simplicity, the photographer is unsure as to why these images have become so popular and his stock-intrade. “Maybe the fish are something common which a lot of people know but have never seen portrayed in this style before. And because my work is so simple the photos can cross different cultural barriers,” said the 46-year-old, who majored in Communication Arts, specializing in advertising, at Chulalongkorn University in the Thai capital. Whatever the reasons, his painterly photos of fighting fish have been featured in big newspapers like The Guardian and on major websites like Yahoo! and ABC News. Through the
Virasute Angkatavanich La Lanta Fine Art Gallery in Bangkok, which serves as his agent, the photos have appeared in galleries and ads around the world. In this way, Virasute has assumed the role of a cultural preservationist, framing a quintessential creature of Thai folklore and inspiring a resurgence of interest in them, while also showing how the most traditional subject matter in Thailand can be reframed for an international company like Apple. It’s the kind of old-school/newwave combination that the Thai filmmaker Apichatpong Weerasethakul employed to win the biggest prize at Cannes in 2010 for his Isaan-set film about reincarnation, Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives. And it’s also a potent reminder for aspiring Thai artists to delve deeper into their own culture and folklore before borrowing from other nations. A PRIL 2016 | 37
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| very thai
Whisky Mixers & Beer Towers Nightlife etiquette: shared drinks, themed clubs, and bars with no walls
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hatever mixologists, sommeliers and alcopop sales ‘pretties’ suggest, the true tipple of all Thai classes, all sexes, in all venues, from hotel to nightclub to roadside shack, remains whisky-soda with a dash of Coke. Before the 1997 crash Thailand drank more Johnnie Walker Black Label whisky than all bar Japan and America. But order a glass and you may be refused. You might have to buy the bottle. At some suburban clubs a bottle of whisky is the cost of admission. No sign states ‘Groups Only’, but solo drinkers are virtually pariahs. Even twosomes are troublesome with their potential for disagreement or silences that three or more friends would prevent.
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip CornwelSmith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 38 | A PRIL 2016
Alcohol usually loosens social divisions, yet here it reinforces them. Drinking etiquette lubricates the hierarchy. Most bars stock a very narrow choice of alcohol, but upmarket bars, led by Q Bar and Bed Supperclub, have lengthened their drink lists to New York norms. Identity depends on rank within one’s group. And status lies in the liquor brand that’s ordered—plus the way it’s served. Whisky reflects the wallet: from roughest rum-like Mekong to smoother Saeng Som laced with lime; from Spey Royal blended Scotch up to show-off Chivas Regal. Slaking ever more of Thailand’s thirst, beer comes in bottles and pitchers big enough for two or three people, or iced beer
tower that can supply a whole table. The idea is to share. Decanting lager into glasses—often on the rocks— distributes joy to all and roles to each. Most Thais drink from a shared source, whether it be a bottle of Black, a pitcher of Singha beer, or a jug of kamikaze cocktail sprouting one straw per mouth. A Saeng Thip and Red Bull cocktail may get served in the ice bucket itself—a clever idea on dancefloors, for the hinged handle prevents spillage as you dance. By da, street workers like motorcycle taxi drivers share the same communal technique. Whatever class the coterie, the most junior pours, the most senior pays, while extroverts propose relentless toasts of chai yo!—cheers!
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com
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SNAPSHOTS
| heritage
Italian architectural influence even extended to penal institutions
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heritage | SNAPSHOTS
Memories of the Macabre Dusit’s Former House of Horrors has been Turned into a Quaint Urban Retreat By Luc Citrinot
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uests were almost certainly in a state of awe when passing through Klong Prem’s huge gate a hundred years ago. Though its structure was striking, these “guests” were probably not in awe of its design. Located along Maha Chai Road, marking the border between Dusit and Yaowarat, the old Klong Prem Prison represented the solemn side of European influence. Joachim Grassi, one of the first Italians invited to the Court of Siam to work for the monarchy, had designed the original prison. The architect took inspiration for the layout of Bangkok’s largest prison from another infamous correctional facility, the HMP Brixton, found near London. First described as one of the worst prisons in England after opening in 1821, Brixton Prison was progressively expanded and integrated facilities such as a nursery for children and open-air yards for exercising—although the treatment of prisoners remained gruesome throughout the years. The layout of the prison, a square yard with a central unit surrounded by adjunct facilities, such as guardians’ quarters, a nursery, and dormitories, was copied from the Brixton model. As was its grand gates, which were flanked by two pavilions. It almost recalled the entrance to a palace. In 1987, the Thai government decided to demolish the prison. The prisoners had long since moved to the newer Klong Prem in the Lard Yao district, a structure that today holds nearly 20,000 inmates. Grassi’s historical structure, however, was partially kept intact: two watch towers, bangkok101.com
The newly renamed Crime and Justice Museum, once a prison part of the wall, and two pavilions, as well as the main gate and entrance, were renovated to house the Bangkok Corrections Museum, which was officially inaugurated in 1999 by HRH Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn. Visitors today can peruse the grounds and learn about prison living conditions of old, including a look back at the institution’s darker side, such as its heart-rending history of torture. Whipping, tying prisoners atop a rattan ball studded with nails, decapitation by sword—all such nefarious practices are on display. The museum is currently being renovated and has already been renamed the “Museum of Crime and Justice,” a softer name applied to this former house of horrors. The prison compound itself has been turned into Romaneenart Park,
one of the most pleasant gardens in Bangkok. In place of prisoners working or sleeping, there are now old men chatting on benches, joggers running around the wall, and kids shouting joyfully in playgrounds. The gate has recently been given new coats of paint, as well, evoking Italy more than ever through dark yellow walls and green windows. In the sunset, it even casts a romantic glow as the park turns into a polychromatic parade of oranges and pinks. Birds chirp, locals laugh, and the old days of terror gradually fade into memory.
Crime And Justice Museum Open to the public Mon-Fri from 9.30am to 4pm. Park open from sunrise to dawn. Call 0 2226 1706 for more information. A PRIL 2016 | 41
Baby powder and water: the two staple items to a successful Songkran
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bangkok101.com
ROAM Songkran
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t’s time to dust off those aloha shirts and water pistols. Songkran, the festival celebrating the Thai New Year, tends to transform Thailand into a wet and wild mess, as travellers, expats, and locals put on their vivid floralpatterned shirts, grab buckets, and splash just about anything that moves. But there’s much more to the holiday than well-lubricated water fights. Songkran is a time to wash away sins to bear a new beginning, and the traditions run deep. In Samut Prakan, the Mon (or Raman) community in Phra Pradaeng celebrates Songkran with ancient customs, including the Thai-Raman flag ceremony, traditional games (like Saba, a kind of courtship game), a “Miss Songkran” contest (of course), and elaborate stage performances put on by local residents. The celebrations here usually take place just after the national Songkran holidays and this year will be held from April 18-20. To experience Songkran as it was celebrated in the Siam of old, make tracks for Ayutthaya. After gathering at temples for merit-making and Buddha image-bathing ceremonies, locals parade around the ancient ruins of the UNESCO-recognized old town. Then a proper water fight ensues, one incorporating Ayutthaya’s noble, colourfully painted elephants. The celebration runs from April 13-15. For an alternative taste of the Thai New Year, head south to Hat Yai’s Midnight Songkran to get soaked under the moonlight. Highlights include miniconcerts, a foam party, and—you guessed it—a “Miss Songkran” contest. The round-the-clock festivities begin at 10am on April 11 and continue until 11pm on April 15. For the most saturated spectacle of all, head to Chiang Mai, where the party lasts for almost a week. From April 11-16, the city will be awash with cultural activities. These include displays of sand sculptures at temples and the bathing of the Phra Buddha Sihing image, which is believed to give the people of the North a prosperous start to the New Year. The festival truly gets started with a parade of city officials, who offer themselves up as willing targets as they saunter along Tha Phae Road. While watery fun is all well and good, remember to be respectful of the religious and cultural elements of the holiday. What’s more, considering the on-going drought that has strangled parts of Thailand in recent months, try to conserve water—shut off the nozzle of the hose and instead participate in customary rites like rod nam dam hua, the pouring of small amounts of water over heads and hands as a means of spiritual cleansing. For an auspicious beginning to the year, treat Thailand’s traditions and environment with kindness and consideration.
bangkok101.com
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TRAVEL | upcountry now
April 1-3 Prasat Hin Phanom Rung Festival
Catch a glimpse of the sunlight beaming through the doors of Buriram’s ancient Khmer temple, Phanom Rung, and onto a revered stone hidden deep in its main sanctuary. In former times, it was believed that the light brought luck and prosperity for the new day. Today, it’s more of a feat of architecture and cunning. Festival highlights include a ceremony known as buang suang, light and sound shows, and Apsara dance contest, and a retro-fashioned market, as well as the OTOP market.
April 7-8 Hat Siao Elephant Ordination Ceremony (Buat Chang)
At Wat Hat Siao in Sukhothai, a mass ordination ceremony in which young novice monks, clad in black sunglasses and white Thai Phuan dress, are paraded through the streets on the backs of beautifully-decorated elephants. This tribal tradition, which dates back some 150 years, finishes at Ban Hat Siao’s main temple, where a pho thao (village elder) helps the novices dismount and leads them to worship.
April 8-16 Phuket Bike Week 2016
The 22nd instalment of the annual Phuket Bike Week 2016 assumes the slogan “ASEAN Ride Together” in 2016. The event takes place in Patong Beach from April 8-10 and in Phuket Town on April 15 and 16, taking Phuket to the forefront of local and international communities of big bikers. Expect over 10,000 motorcycles and five times as many visitors representing over 30 countries. There will be beach parties, live music, bike expos, and a “Miss Phuket Bike Week” beauty contest. Find out more at phuketbikeweek.com.
April 13 Singha Songkran Chiang Mai Night Run 2016
Warning: this will not be easy. This night-time running event takes the daring among us up a car-free road to the top of Doi Suthep, with no lights other than headlamps guiding the way. The race kicks off from Chiang Mai Zoo, climbs to Doi Suthep, and then descends to the same place where it all started, a full 21 quad-bursting kilometres. There are also other distances to run—10k and 2.5k—for mini- and fun-runners. Visit jogandjoy.com for more information and for registration. 4 4 | A PRIL 2016
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upcountry now | TRAVEL
April 13-14 Nang Yai Wat Khanon Festival
The Nang Yai Wat Khanon National Museum plays host to this festival, in which various forms of high-class entertainment from former times are performed. Take in a performance of khon, the Chatri marionette show, shadow puppetry, and student performances. Or peruse the wonderful art market, featuring works created by alums of the local university, all in the lesser-visited province of Ratchaburi.
April 30-May 4 Top of the Gulf Regatta
Asia’s largest multi-class regatta, the 12th Top of the Gulf Regatta, takes place this April at Ocean Marina Yacht Club in Jomtien Beach. Some of the region’s top racing boats and sailors set sail for Southeast Asia’s largest marina to compete in 12 classes, ranging from keelboats to multihulls, dinghies, optimists, and windsurfs—making for surprisingly exciting sport events to spectate. The event normally boasts over 600 participants from over 30 countries. Expect no different this year.
TRAVEL | feature
Songkran in Southern Thailand is celebrated slightly differently
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bangkok101.com
feature | TRAVEL
Soaked
down South Dive in to the Alternative Side of Songkran By Kaila Krayewski
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s the Thai sun cranks up the heat, people gather in the streets across the country, ready to douse whosoever should cross their paths with icy water, often smearing a thick paste of baby powder—and sometimes prickly heat—across the cheeks of unsuspecting passersby, as well. Though the cold water is welcome at this extremely hot time of year, all that splashing around is actually about cleansing and renewal on the occasion of the approaching new year. This isn’t a recent tradition: it’s said that Songkran traditions can be dated as far back as the 13th century. According to religious texts, the advent of Songkran actually coincides with the birth of Buddha. Of course, if you want to experience the Thai New Year at its most traditional and non-traditional, head to Chiang Mai, where the festival stretches to seven action-packed days of spiritual rituals and sprawling water fights. (Elsewhere in the top-half of Thailand, Songkran is usually celebrated over three days, April 13-15.) bangkok101.com
Venture farther south and Songkran is squeezed into just one day, April 13. For people who truly enjoy a fun water festival, but aren’t keen on having it drag on, one day is often more than enough. The reason for the limited amount of days is not fully known, but a few theories exist: some say police prefer to keep it to one day to limit
the amount law-breaking that tends to happen when alcohol and energy mix while others note that Songkran is relatively new to the South and is therefore thought of as a convenient excuse to party. Regardless of reason, for one day of watery fun down South, there are a few key places to “play Songkran,” as the locals say.
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TRAVEL | feature
Phuket The sprawling island of Phuket promises plenty of wet and wild parties, but for the biggest, most hedonistic bash, Patong’s Bangla road is the place to spray and be sprayed. And if Patong just isn’t your kind of scene, head to one of the island’s other designated party zones, including Saphan Hin Park, the KataKaron beachfront, or Soi Ta-Eiad in Chalong (aka “Muay Thai Road”).
Tip: The nine designated party zones are meant to be alcohol-free from 8am on the 13th to 6am on the 14th (yes, even on Bangla Road!). Koh Samui If you’re all for getting soaked in Samui, head straight to Chaweng for endless parties, particularly those of the rowdy variety at Ark Bar and Solo Bar on Chaweng Beach Road. If Chaweng is too far, Lamai offers a decent, slightly more low-key alternative.
Tip: Leave your bike at home and walk or drive a car—but beware: from 11am
onward, traffic will be bumper-to-bumper along the ring road that traces the island.
Nakhorn Si Thammarat If you want to experience a traditional side to Songkran—with a bit of the party thrown in—head to Nakhorn Si Thammarat. Plenty of old rites are observed here each year, including the bathing ritual of the Phra Phuttha Sihing image, a procession of gods and goddesses carved into wood boards (Nang Kradan), and a Swing Ceremony to welcome Phra Siva.
Koh Phangan
Tip: Get there early—the events begin on April 11th, two days before Songkran starts in most other areas, and stretch until the 15th. The Nang Kradan ceremony takes place on the final two days of the festivities.
Many are surprised to hear that, on the island of Full Moon debauchery, the main Songkran party actually takes place far from Haad Rin (the beaches where the Full Moon parties are held). Every year, the main port town of Thong Sala bursts at the seams with water gun-toting tourists. The main street shuts down here around the popular Pantip market area (a five-minute walk from the pier), where a stage is set up to play host for the full day of fun.
Tip: There have been a few incidents of Thai-on-Thai violence amongst the throngs of people, making it worthwhile to find a meeting point and stick to a buddy system with your friends or family when participating in the fun. 48 | A PRIL 2016
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feature | TRAVEL Krabi Due to its Muslim influence, Krabi is not your destination for the biggest, baddest Songkran parties. However, if you’d like to spend a fun day participating in the H20-fueled fun, here are some spots where you can find it:
Krabi Town: The downtown
Ao Nang: Ao Nang’s main road dwindles from two lanes to one from late morning to evening on the 13th and traffic moves very slowly, so walk or take a push bike. Some of the beachfront shops and restaurants shut for the day to avoid their wares getting soaked.
core of Krabi offers an entry point to experiencing Songkran with the Thai community. Head to the park near the river to get into the midst of the action. Here, you’ll find refill stations, as well as vendors selling food and crafts.
Koh Phi Phi: The once
pristine party island of Koh Phi Phi is a great place to experience the fun of Songkran. Water guns are sold along the main street paths on the days of and leading up to the holiday. The water fights here are great fun, but don’t expect to experience much of traditional Songkran, since it’s mostly tourists getting wet.
Hat Yai A common stopping point on bus and train routes in Thailand, Hat Yai is far less touristy than its island neighbours (although it does boast significant numbers of Malay tourists). As such, with its traditions still firmly intact, it makes an ideal destination for a more traditional Songkran. Head to Niphat Uthit Road in the town centre to catch the Nang Dan parade (renowned throughout the country), beauty pageants, and water fights that last until late. Plus, the city is home to the famed Midnight Songkran, which technically takes place before Songkran, from April 11-13. It incorporates a foam party to the expected itinerary of alms-giving, water fights, and parades—but it all happens at night.
Tip: The famed Nang Dan parade pays tribute to Phra Maha That Chadi Nakhon Si Thammarat—one of the most important Buddhist temples in Thailand. The parade begins on the 12th and ends 14th of April. And of course, once Songkran is over, you will be perfectlypositioned—surrounded by pristine isles as you are—to enjoy some well-earned beach time. After all, you didn’t spend an entire day getting cleansed of your sins to stay clean, did you? bangkok101.com
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TRAVEL | upcountry escape
No beast of burden, but rather a beautiful creature
An Elephantine Day Out In Northern Thailand, Appreciating a Creature of Myth, War, and Untold Legends By Jim Algie
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he elephant looms large in Thai history and culture. Signs of its omnipotence are everywhere. The symbol of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration depicts the Hindu god Indra astride his elephant named Erawan. Outside Thai universities lay shrines to Ganesha, the elephant-headed god of art and knowledge. In museums 50 | A PRIL 2016
and photographic archives, you may see an old flag of Siam, before the country’s name was changed to Thailand, featuring a sacred white elephant, or illustrations of regally attired war elephants carrying kings and princes on their backs into battle. While elephant rides have long been an itinerary-filler here, in more recent years a number of camps have
opened in the north of Thailand where visitors can train to be a mahout—an elephant handler—for a day, or a week, or more. One such facility is the Ran-Tong Save and Rescue Elephant Centre, which claims to have rescued eight of their elephants from the streets of Bangkok. It doesn’t keep its charges chained up or put on any circus-style bangkok101.com
upcountry escape | TRAVEL The author rides his steed as part of an enlightening day out
shows either, where the beasts are trained to play football and wiggle their bottoms to pop songs, which are encouraging signs that the animals are treated well. But that is impossible to verify. Many conservationists believe that such mahout-training programmes are wrong and that riding on the backs of elephants does damage to their spines. One hears stories, equally impossible to verify, of young creatures being separated from their mothers and treated cruelly in order to break them so they can be ridden. With some very real misgivings I decided to try the programme to make up my own mind. Our half-day programme started with an early morning pick-up and an hour’s drive out of Chiang Mai city, in the country’s North, to the green highlands of Mae Taeng. Elephants are perfectly adapted to these hilly climes, even serving as the taxis and trains a century ago, when a journey from Bangkok to Chiang Mai could take a month or more. bangkok101.com
The camp sits at the bottom of a verdant valley. We were first introduced to the elephants in an outdoor area ringed by wooden buildings, where we fed them bananas and sugarcane before donning straw hats and rough-hewn cotton shirts. Our new guises and the colossal presences of such mythical creatures appearing in the flesh inspired a lot of “selfie-indulgence” as everyone took photos of themselves for social media, which, maligned as it may be, can also be a powerful force for disseminating information about these imperilled creatures. During the initial briefing session, the main mahout quickly shot down any high-flying pretensions we had of attaining much expertise as an elephant handler in a day. Brandishing a chalkboard, he showed us the Thai words for the six main commands: melong (lay down); hao (stop); khwa (turn right); sai (turn left); toy (reverse); pai (go). Then he said, “Don’t worry. The elephants won’t listen to you anyway.” That wisecrack set off a
chain reaction of chuckles popping like a string of firecrackers. Then it was time to meet our elephants for the day. My ride, named Mae Baer, was a small female aged five or six. All the other creatures that would serve as our mounts and mentors were females too. This is a safety precaution. The males are simply too unpredictable to ever fully tame. When they go into musth during the rutting season, they defy the gentle giant stereotype and become extremely dangerous. Last year, a bull elephant terrorised a series of automobile drivers in Thailand’s Khao Yai National Park by charging at and damaging their vehicles. It’s easy to spot the most prominent difference between the sexes of the Asian elephant. Only the males, though not all of them, have tusks. In contrast, the larger African elephant, both male and females, can have tusks, making them prime targets for poachers in search of ivory. There are three main ways of getting on an elephant, thereby multiplying your chances of looking awkward and foolhardy threefold. The most difficult methods are being lifted up by its trunk and scrambling over its head or climbing up a leg that it extends to give you a boost. Most of us chose the easiest method: waiting for the real mahout to make the beast squat down and then clamber up on its back. To ride one of these jumbos, the mahout sits behind its ears, holding on to what looks and feels like a length of garden hose wrapped around its neck. This is a precarious position. Each time the creature dips its skull, cratered with bumps and indentations and carpeted in spiny black hair, the mahout has to grip on to the hose tightly and veer back so as not to take a tumble. Within 10 minutes, and 100 repeated commands, the main guide’s prophecy came true. The world’s largest living land animal ignored all of our repeated instructions. We were not driving them, so much as they were following their gut instincts, frequently stopping to forage or ambling along the path. It was more of a comedy caper than a wildlife thriller until the scene changed genres. One of the bigger A PRIL 2016 | 51
TRAVEL | upcountry escape STOPPING THE SLAUGHTER If there were no demand for ivory products, there would be no killing of elephants for their tusks. It’s that simple. Every traveller can use their purchasing power to keep this species alive firstly by not purchasing such products and secondly by not staying in hotels with gift shops that sell ivory trinkets, says Steve Galster, the founder and director of Freeland, an anti-wildlife trafficking NGO based in Bangkok. “Tourists should do some research on the various hotels, find out if the hotels are selling any ivory products in their gift shops, and, if they are, then don’t stay there.” Steve added that these shops, as well as stalls at Chatuchak Market and amulet vendors, can sell the products by exploiting a loophole in Thai law that only bans the ivory of African elephants from being sold; using the tusks of domestic elephants which died of natural causes is fine. But how can anyone tell the difference? That’s extremely difficult. The loophole, and a voracious black market for illicit wildlife products, has made Thailand second only to China as a transit point for smuggled ivory. The sixth meeting of the conference of parties to CITES (the UN’s Convention on the Trade in Endangered Species), which was held in Bangkok in 2013, brought renewed attention to the issue, with actor Leonardo Di Caprio joining a chorus of calls for then Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra to close the loophole. She pledged to do so, but little progress has been made so far.
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beasts, carrying a Western couple, veered off the dirt path and into a rattling clump of bamboo to start chewing the leaves, leaving them with a few scratches after getting flogged by branches. Soon a mahout stepped in to help them out of harm’s way and the animal listened to his commands. My elephant was easy-going, so I was happy enough to go along for the ride. Frankly, I didn’t feel worthy of commanding a powerful beast that had inspired so much mythology and folklore. Though appearing ungainly, she was actually very agile and surefooted, skirting the edges of a muddy ribbon of path beside a steep drop off with not even a metre as margin for error and never losing her balance. The last leg of the training marathon was bathing the elephants in a pool when they, in turn, bathed
us by using their trunks as shower hoses. Afterwards, still dripping water, the most daring newbie in our group attempted to mount her charge by letting the animal lift her up with its trunk. She beamed during the whole ordeal, scrambling up and over its head to assume the seat of honour atop its neck: a feat of gymnastics that proved some rookies can make it to the next level of training. So much for the fantasy of becoming elephant handlers. Now it was time for some reality checks about this endangered species that came up during the final briefing. Our guide told us that are now only around 7,000 elephants left in Thailand, down from 100,000 a century ago. Adam Oswell, the founder and director of the Wildlife 1 Conservancy based in Chiang Mai, backed up that claim. In 2012 he did
A daring mahout tries to get on the hard way
Only 7000 elephants exist in the wild in Thailand anymore bangkok101.com
SOUL SCIENCE
The Soulful Science of Thai Cuisine: Ghrachai Thai Culinary repertoire has always balanced between art and science. At Ruen Urai— “the House of Gold”— dishes are prepared with passion and flair based on an intimate knowledge of ingredients and their flavours, textures, and aromas. Paying homage to herbal medicine doctor who originally resided in the century-old golden teakwood house in which Ruen Urai is located, our Thai gourmet voyage continues to explore zesty herbs and spices and their meanings and usage. Through their chemistry and harmony, alchemy is created. Native to Java and Sumatra, ghrachai in Thai is also known as Chinese ginger, Chinese keys, fingerroot, and lesser galangal. This medicinal and culinary herb is widely grown in Southeast Asia and India. Looking like a cluster of long orangey-brown fingers or keys, it provides an aromatic and spicy flavour. The rhizomes can be eaten raw in salads, added to soups and curries, particularly those made of seafood. The roots have analgesic, antibacterial, antifungal, antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, and insecticidal properties, It is also believed to be an antidote to poisons and to increase male libido. Ghrachai enhances zest to salmon sautéed in Pad Chaa style. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel opens from 12 noon to 11 p.m. 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
TRAVEL | upcountry escape
How to train an elephant
Pachyderms have powerful trunks
More than the ellie gets a bath a comprehensive survey of elephant camps and zoos in Thailand for the anti-wildlife-trafficking group TRAFFIC, counting some 5,043 individuals, which means there may only be some 2,000 creatures left in the wild. Asked about the creature’s future in Thailand, Adam said, “It’s pretty grim because of the loss of habitat and being poached for their tusks. These days conservation work is all about protection, limiting the damage. So the only viable option for elephants in captivity is tourism.” For an animal that once carried kings and appeared on the national flag, that’s a mighty big fall from grace, but these Asian elephants are doing better than their larger African cousins, which are currently being killed at an average rate of 30,000 per year— that’s one every 20 minutes—to feed the insatiable appetite for the status symbol of ivory, which is particularly popular in China. All that bad news provoked some bipolar feelings in us would-be mahouts. On the one hand it was a big and very fun day out. On the other 54 | A PRIL 2016
it was heart-rending to learn that this dying breed will be on its last legs within another decade or two, both in Africa and Asia, if the current rates of poaching and deforestation continue unchecked. But if camps like these in northern Thailand can do their part to raise awareness of the creatures’ plight and some of the visitors help to spread this message, and if the efforts of authorities continue in China to crackdown on the ivory trade, then there may be some hope on the horizon for the only living creature besides humans that mourns their dead. When a member of the herd dies, the other elephants cover it with branches and then mill around the corpse, making the most low and mournful noises in their complex language, for days on end. Besides the elephant’s huge role in Buddhism and Hinduism, their sense of empathy and humanlike behaviour is part of the reason why Thais feel that they are the most advanced of animals. So much so that elephants will become humans in their next reincarnations.
PRICES: Ran-Tong and many other camps are priced around the same for the full-day mahout programme: B2400 each for two people sharing an elephant and B4500 for a single person. ETHICS: Any reputable camp will have a list of ethical values they practice, such as not separating mothers from calves, not chaining up their charges, or not staging circus-like spectacles. NOTABLE CAMPS: Also near Chiang Mai is the Elephant Nature Park run by Thailand’s most famous wildlife conservationist, Lek Chailert. At this facility, visitors can only feed and bathe the elephants. They cannot ride them. Not far from Chiang Mai, in the province of Lampang, is the Thai Elephant Conservation Center, which runs mahout programmes and houses the world’s first elephant hospital.
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Vista Bar Terrace Location: 8th floor, Pathumwan Princess Hotel Open daily from 6:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.
TRAVEL | over the border
Past and present clash in modern-day Bandung
Good eats abound in Bandung
CDs, books, and more at Omuniuum 56 | A PRIL 2016
bangkok101.com
over the border | TRAVEL
Metal Mountain Madness Dutch art deco, indie music, and Java’s best cuisine come together in Bandung By Joe Cummings
W
hen Gede Robi, front man for Indonesia’s hugely popular metal/hard rock band Navicula, invited me to join the band onstage for a concert in Bandung last December, I didn’t hesitate to accept. I’d already played with Robi and friends on a couple of mini-tours of Thailand and Vietnam, but had never even seen Navicula perform live other than taped concerts on YouTube. Other than getting a chance to rock out on guitar with Navicula—their regular lead guitarist couldn’t make the gig due to another commitment (Australian Edward Andrews carried off most of his responsibilities with aplomb; I was just sitting in)—I was also immediately seduced by the chance to see Bandung, a city I hadn’t visited in nearly 20 years. Once known as the Paris of Asia, the former Dutch colonial hill station boasts a smattering of vintage art deco buildings left behind by the Dutch, a booming economy, and the best overall climate of any city in Java. My arrival, via train from Jakarta, is smooth. A few of my old haunts are much as I remembered them, such as Jalan Cicendo’s 117-yearold kimia farma, where the Dutch developed drugs to overcome malaria. Maybe one day the locals will find a new purpose for the magnificent, abandoned buildings. Gedung Sate, named for a roof finial that resembles satay, Indonesia’s most famous dish, hasn’t changed bangkok101.com
a bit and still represents the city’s architectural centrepoint. The Dutch East Indies Company erected the monumental building in 1920 to house public works management. Bearing neoclassical designs mixed with native details, the stately building now serves as the office of West Java’s provincial governor. Meanwhile Jalan Braga, the Champs-Elysees of this the Dutch colony’s eastern Paris, still boasts a parade of cafés, including a few with live bands playing everything from dangdut to rock. Much of my time this visit is spent around Jalan Dago, a modern neighbourhood known mainly for its appeal to both local and international shoppers. Here a succession of factory outlets carry clothing made in Indonesia for export, but kept behind, presumably, as “seconds”—pieces that don’t measure up to export standards. Locals say this is mostly pretence, and that plenty of topdrawer goods are available. The wide avenue is also home to a phalanx of small shops that cut and sew custom blue jeans from a wide variety of denim fabrics, in any requested style. Although the Bandung denim scene draws a steady stream of Jakarta residents, it’s the local music community that is apparently responsible for its continued success. Considered Indonesia’s hotbed of musical experimentation, Bandung boasts such diverse bands as minimalist garage rockers The
S.I.G.I.T., death metal outfit Burgerkill, massively popular pop rock combo Mocca, and metal-heads Seringai, who opened for Metallica when they played Jakarta in 2013. That’s only a tiny fraction of the local scene, which numbers an estimated 200 bands. Although several successful labels are based in Bandung, the stalwart of the indie scene is FFWD (Fast Forward) Records, co-founded in 1999 by Helvi Sjarifuddin, who is also the guitarist for the garage rock band Teenage Death Star. The day after the Navicula concert, I meet up with Helvi at Omuniuum, a small shop selling books, CDs, and band merchandise on the second floor of a modern shophouse directly opposite the campus of Catholic University Parahiyangan. “Mocca was the act that put us on Indonesia’s musical map,” he says. “Their first album sold close to 150,000 copies in 2002. Their songs were played regularly on local radio and on MTV Indonesia, and they’ve toured Singapore, Malaysia, and Japan. One of their songs was licensed for a Korean TV commercial.” Omuniuum’s owner Iit Sukmiati told me that the CD market is still huge in Bandung. Her little shop sells an average of 2,000 discs a month. “Fans here are hugely loyal to the bands they follow,” she says. “So even though they might be able to download music more easily, they’ll buy CDs, concert tickets, and A PRIL 2016 | 57
TRAVEL | over the border
This tamarind-based soup called sayur asem is a specialty of Bandung
band merchandise to support the musicians.” it is also the director of Liga Musik Nasional (National Music League, or “Limunas” for short), who on their website describe themselves as “a bunch of heavy music lovers who want to share cool musical spectacles.” One of Limunas’ main venues for such spectacles is the large auditorium of the Institut Francais Indonesia on Jalan Purnawarman. The IFI hosts an average of two Limunassponsored concerts a month. The night I hit the IFI stage with Navicula, the auditorium is completely packed with over a thousand fans in black T-shirts who head-bang, mosh, and crowd-surf their way through a set by local grindcore rockers Rajasinga before cranking the energy even further for Robi and crew. In all my years of playing music live, it is one of the most totally rocked-out shows I’ve ever experienced. During the weekend I’m in town, I’m fortunate enough to be guided around the city by Jeanie Laksmi, a Bandung native who was introduced to me by Bangkok DJ Scott Hess. Jeanie also happens to be a raging rock fan, and we spent the weekend driving from one place to another, 58 | A PRIL 2016
local bands blasting a soundtrack on her car stereo. After I tell her I’m keen to try local cuisine, Jeanie takes me right away to Ayam Goreng Suharti. From the outside, the restaurant looks like an old Dutch house, but inside there’s a surprisingly spacious dining hall with wooden tables and chairs that reminds me of “family restaurants” in the deep American South. The house specialty is a magnificent ayam goreng (fried chicken) wherein the bird is marinated in coconut milk and spices for a few hours before frying. After the chicken is done, a fritterlike mix of rice flour and coconut cream is quickly fried in the same oil. The resulting kremes (“crispy” in Indonesian) are piled atop the fried chicken when served. Along with the signature dish we enjoyed a terrific gurame bakar (baked gourami) in spicy soy gravy and sayur asem, a tamarind-based soup that’s a Bandung forte. Later I get the chance to try sambal terasi, a Sundanese fishchilli-lime dip reminiscent of Thailand’s naam phrik. As is the case with the latter, steamed vegetables, along with fried tofu and tempeh, are used to scoop up the paste.
While in Bandung I lodged at The 101 Bandung Dago, a trendy new hotel with friendly staff, light and airy rooms, a pool, and an all-day café serving well-conceived Sundanese, Indonesian, and international dishes. It’s also within walking distance of the Institut Francais Indonesia, not to mention innumerable Jalan Dago shopping venues, so if you’re in town for one of the indie, punk, or metal shows, consider putting up here. I’m already coming up with excuses for another trip to Java’s music capital, very soon. Anyone need a guitarist? THE GUIDE TO BANDUNG • 101 Bandung Dago Hotel Jl. Juanda 3, Tel 02224260966 the101hotels.com • Ayam Goreng Suharti Jl. Cipaganti 171, Tel 0222032188 • Institut Francais Indonesia Jl. Purnawarman 32, Tel 0224212417 • Omuniuum Jl. Ciumbuleuit 151 B Lantai 2 Tel 0222038279, 087821836088 bangkok101.com
ART
Coming Home:
The Big Man’s Journey Home
I
f you subscribe to any vaguely Confucian adage urging you to live well and chase your dreams, you will appreciate where Giant Surakit Thammasathit is coming from. The artist, who worked for decades in advertising, all the while painting on the side as a hobby and occasionally showing his work in group shows, finally gets his first solo exhibition. And it coincides with the opening of 3rd Rock Gallery on Rama IX Road. “Coming Home: The Big Man’s Journey Home” features 20 new oil-oncanvas portraits of the artist, his close friends, and some well-known public figures. Among Giant’s subjects are Chatchai Puipia, Thai contemporary artist Vasan Sitthiket, deceased Thai comedian Lor Tok, and deceased superstar singer Pumpuang Duangchan. The paintings represent a sincere, often humorous and alternative look back on Giant’s life and the people who have influenced him. This high point in Giant’s artistic career also marks the first exhibition held in the new 3rd Rock Gallery, opened in early 2016 by tourism and hotel entrepreneur Joe Cholayuth Surachetpong and occupying a spacious 150 square metres of a renovated building. Coming Home: The Big Man’s Journey Home runs from April 9-June 9 at 3rd Rock Gallery. There will be an opening party on April 9, starting at 6pm.
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ART & CULTURE
| exhibitions
Omnivoyeur
Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC)
939 Rama I Rd | 0 2214 6630-8 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm bacc.or.th
April 1-July 10 Part of the Urban Media Project, organized in collaboration with Goethe Institut and Connecting Cities Network, this project by German sound artist Christina Kubisch and Thai photographer Miti Ruangkritya investigates urban landscapes through a variety of sensation. The exhibition features an electromagnetic walk, guiding viewers through cities with a map and custommade headphones that capture magnetic sounds inaudible to naked ears. Meanwhile, Miti’s field-recorded images spark reflection of the role of media in our increasingly technological world.
Danse Macabre
Kathmandu Photo Gallery
87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 0 2234 6700 | Tue-Sun 11am-7pm kathmanduphotobkk.com
Until April 30 Bangkok University graduate Pahparn Sirima Chaipreechawit presents a series of black and white shots examining the mystic power—an almost trapping power— of Kathmandu, its people seemingly stuck in a cycle, chasing their own shadows. These haunting photos feature the artist’s trademark composition and finesse with light and shadow.
Shadow of Truth
Ardel Gallery of Modern Art
99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5) 0 2422 2092 | Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm ardelgallery.com
April 5-May 22 The semi-abstract artwork of Anand Panin recalls the artist’s travels. But by travelling Anand does not only focus on discovering the difference between places or people, but also finding truth in humanity. His clear brushstrokes lend movement to the pieces, stoking imagination.
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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE
Ordinary Miracle
Rotunda Gallery & Garden Gallery
Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd | 0 2233 1731 Tue-Sun 9.30am-5pm | neilsonhayslibrary.com
Until May 1 Kolkata-born Anita Bose, with over eighteen years of experience working in art, shares the craftsmanship and artistic traditions of India with her Bangkok audience in “Ordinary Miracle.� Her works incorporate aspects of nature, ancient history, and folk art. They are humble tributes powered by her love and respect for humanity and also figurative expressions of peace.
The Arts of Translation
Bangkok University Art Gallery (BUG)
Bangkok University Gallery Bldg, Kluai Nam Thai campus, Rama IV Rd | 0 2350 3626 | Tue-Sat 10am-7pm | fab.bu.ac.th/buggallery
Until May 7 Qenji Yoshida explores possible dialogues and interpretations between Thai and Japanese cultures through the art of translation. Yoshida examines retranslation, mistranslation, and feeling lost in translation in order to develop his art, working on the foundational belief that no translation is ever perfect.
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ART & CULTURE
| interviews
Bangkok Great
S
ince the highly acclaimed, international bestseller, Bangkok 8, came out in 2003, John Burdett has written five more literate thrillers in the series, mingling the sacred and profane, which have been translated into more than 20 different languages. The latest book in the series is The Bangkok Asset (see review on p66-67). In this email interview he tells Jim Algie how the Thai capital saved his soul and why he started writing about the city’s nightlife.
You grew up in London, England, you worked for 12 years as a lawyer in Hong Kong, and you own a house in France: Why on earth did you decide to spend most of your time in Thailand?
I came reluctantly to the conclusion that my soul was starving. As a novelist I can make such an admission without fear of losing my job or damaging my social life, so I suppose in a way it is my duty to confess. For me, the extreme materialism of modern times, which has reached a stage of religious fanaticism, has shrivelled hearts worldwide. The disease of narcissism 64 | A PRIL 2016
is a pandemic for which our ancestors had only one cure: religion. However, as a product of Western education I cannot take gods seriously, especially when one discovers how much they seem to mirror human egotism. In Thailand about 90 percent of the people are Buddhist. That means they have been brought up to keep selfimportance under control and to be generous and useful to others without the need for a deity. I am perfectly aware of the tsunami of problems that seems to be overwhelming the country at the
moment, which may make it less than a dream destination for many, but I remain confident that the open hearts of the people and their extraordinary inner strength will enable them to shrug off problems that would cripple most others. These qualities are largely the consequence of following the teachings of the Buddha and they feed the soul.
How and why did you become interested in Bangkok’s nightlife?
I had no particular interest in the nightlife. I came to Bangkok about 12 bangkok101.com
interviews | ART & CULTURE years ago because I wanted to write a crime novel based in Bangkok. It didn’t take long to discover how open the bar girls were about revealing their life stories. From the information they freely gave I was able to build up a picture of a country that, so far as I knew, had never been very well described by Western writers. I also realised it would be a long haul if I wanted to deepen my understanding. In addition to researching the nightlife I decided to learn Thai. The life and soul of a people are revealed in their language, but after more than 10 years of study it is only recently that I have been able to read Thai-language newspapers. As a consequence I don’t spend so much time at the bars.
How have your studies of Buddhism and meditation influenced your life and work? The effect has been subtle and profound, despite that I have been fairly casual in my approach to Buddhism and meditation. Vipassana meditation in particular enables one to see the workings of one’s own mind, which can be quite a revelation. Socrates once said: The unexamined life is not worth living. I have come reluctantly to the conclusion that the unexamined mind is not worth having, because it will always mislead you.
Why do you think the denizens of the digital age are so obsessed with crime stories, whether dramas or true crime shows, and what can the novel do that these other genres can’t?
Good question, especially since I am more or less addicted to crime stories myself. I love FBI Files, 20/20, Behind Mansion Walls, etc. I often sit watching and wondering: why would anyone read a thriller when these true crimes stories are so abundant and usually quite well narrated? My answer is: context. I have eagerly gorged on hundreds of these episodes without once receiving any information at all as to why crimes of extreme violence have suddenly erupted and spread worldwide. In a good dramatic work, we end up understanding the villain even if we disapprove. We understand Iago and Macbeth (and his wife), the anti-heroes of a Greene or Conrad, all the villains in cinema noire, but we do not have a clue about the soul of bangkok101.com
the walking cliché with lurid tattoos and a history of drug abuse who becomes a serial killer or some other kind of psychopath and who stars in virtually every true crime episode. He—or occasionally she—remains a two-dimensional cut-out that serves as the template for all our reactions to extreme violence. No thinking necessary. But suppose you actually want to think and to know more? Then you need a good novel, because only novelists still believe in thought for the private citizen who wants to make up their own mind.
Like your detective hero, you have a fondness for roaming Bangkok’s streets in the early hours. How different is the city during those hours and what memories or scenes stand out? I used to remind myself of the mime character in Les Enfants du Paradis, who hungrily roams Paris in the early hours, unable to sleep while
there is the life of the night still to be explored. I have witnessed quite a few dramas, the worst being when a young Nigerian tourist stabbed his companion to death. But for me it is more to do with the total change in ambience and behaviour, after about 2am. By that time the fever is largely spent. Male lust and curiosity sated, young women hang out with each other over a bottle of rice whisky on folding tables all along Sukhumvit from Nana down to Asok. The come-on is muted, hardly more than a gesture, everyone is happy to chill out in the relative cool, before the onset of another day in paradise. Often the girls are more interested in a tarot reading from the lady with the magic cloth and the Tarot cards squatting on the sidewalk. Most of the johns are too drunk to be much of a nuisance and not much of a prospect either as far as the girls are concerned. You have to be there to get it. A PRIL 2016 | 65
ART & CULTURE
| cheat notes
Twists In The Tale By Jim Algie
T
he late Johnny Ramone said that bands have about five albums before they start to tread water, which was pretty much true for his old group the Ramones. Many TV critics and viewers have pointed out that TV shows get stale after five seasons. For Exhibits A and B, remember Weeds and The X-Files? Many filmmakers and novelists have struggled to remain relevant after four or five books or films. That sense of rot and stagnation could easily have set in with John Burdett’s sixth novel in the series starring the Thai-American Buddhist 66 | A PRIL 2016
detective Sonchai Jitpleecheep. Instead the author has bravely taken the series in some different directions with some different subject matter and different settings in Cambodia and Vietnam in The Bangkok Asset, as well as giving Sonchai a new crime-fighting partner in the form of a mouthy and tech-savvy lesbian named Krom, who will prove to be something of a thorn in his wife’s backside and a prick that deflates his macho ego. Unlike some of the book’s predecessors, such as Bangkok 8 and Bangkok Tattoo, very little of the action is set around the red-light
districts for foreigners in Bangkok, except for a few brief scenes in the Old Man’s Bar, a venue on Soi Cowboy owned and run by Sonchai’s mother, Nong. Other than a few digressions, there is not all that much about Buddhism either. So much for the two main obsessions and twin engines of the earlier books: the spirit and the flesh. Especially in thrillers and mysteries, plot spoilers are like speed bumps that disrupt the pace of a novel and destroy the reader’s sense of well-earned wonder. So I will limit this review to explaining only a few bangkok101.com
cheat notes | ART & CULTURE degrees of the story’s arc, giving away nothing that isn’t on the dust jacket, before examining some of the book’s larger implications and finer print. In what is easily one of the most thrilling sequences in the entire series, Sonchai witnesses a superhuman feat of strength on the Chao Phraya River on a rain-swept morning. This is the Asset in action: a warrior who appears to have been spawned in a lab, not in a womb. Behind the scene, the Chinese secret police and the CIA are engaged in a game of diplomatic chess with many potential pawns and some checkmates of Herculean proportions. Readers of the series will know that Sonchai has never met his father before. All that the detective knows is that his dad was an American GI and Vietnam vet who fathered him during a tryst on R and R with a Bangkok bargirl. Frankly, in a book that is this consistently grim, the father-and-son backstory and other details of his quest come as an antidote to some of
the poisonous bitterness that seeps in to the narrative. Much of that bile is secreted by Dr. Christmas Bride, who is supposed to be British but doesn’t really speak like a Brit. His tirades about Vietnam, about the Asset, and about the modern world form the despairing moral centrepiece of the book. “It’s simply a matter of dumping the delusion of reason and seeing the human condition for what it is. In reality there is nothing reasonable about us at all—and very little that is humane. One would have thought two world wars proved that. We dream we are rich, happy, and good while the economy is healthy. It only takes a terrorist bomb or two to pop the bubble, however, and we’re back to cave mentality.” Burdett’s series has always flirted more with the violent excesses and folkloric archetypes of horror than the gritty details of police procedurals. This is one of its strong points, as
Degaruda – Monstrous Victorious
Tales of Old Bangkok: Rich Stories from the Land of the White Elephant (Tales)
Bangkok-based math rockers Degaruda have just released their second album, “Monstrous Victorious,” which is set against a backdrop of thundering guitars, roaring vocals, and fluid melodies. The limited edition version of the album, which is available on the band's website, comes in a beautiful, hand-drawn digipack with a lyrics booklet and costs USD10; the digital album costs USD4. Order a copy at degaruda.bandcamp.com. bangkok101.com
This collection of stories gathered from firsthand accounts, postcards, local legend, and more paint a scintillating atmospheric portrait of one of Asia’s most captivating capital cities. Author Chris Burslem leads readers through Bangkok, from the days when it was a floating capital of a closed kingdom to its emergence as a bustling modern metropolis. The paperback is available at Kinokuniya for B475.
well as a point of departure from other mystery series, for the tale of terror is far older and more primeval than any other genre. These are the stories the shamans once told and acted out around the campfires of our distant ancestors. Surely some newer variations will form the endnotes for our species after we crawl off into that nuclear sunset. This novel, where the titular villain is referred to on several occasions as a “demon” and Part III is called “The Messiah,” is a kind of Frankenstein story for our digital age with both mythical and Orwellian overtones about the future of policing. Seeing the police states of constant surveillance and brutality we now live in, I can’t think of a more relevant framework for a cautionary tale than this.
Pick up a copy of The Bangkok Asset from the Kinokuniya web store for B667 or from any local Asia Books for B650 (hardcover B850).
Take Me Home Starring heartthrob Mario Maurer, “Take Me Home,” is the latest horror movie from Kongkiat Khomsiri, who also directed “Art of the Devil 2” and “Slice.” The narrative follows a man named Tan, who suffers a serious case of memory loss in an accident; when he returns to his family, he does so without realizing a dark secret is hidden in their house. “Take Me Home” comes out nationwide on April 13. Look for it at Major Cineplex (with English subtitles). A PR I L 2016 | 67
Mae Nam Chao Phraya. The hoi polloi catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat just before sunset. Sunset at The Deck. The restaurant on the Chao Phraya River, opposite Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, is a marvellous spot to watch the sun go down over dinner or drinks.
art & culture photofeature
Between Dusk & Dawn A Photo Essay on Bangkok at Night By Julia Offenberger
T Siam Square Jumble. As soon as night falls, the sidewalks around Siam Square become crowded with stalls selling anything from T-shirts and handbags to shoes and CDs. Hua Lamphong. Even in the early night hours, the entrance hall of Bangkok’s train station is still filled with people waiting for their overnight train out of town.
he thought of Bangkok at night sparks images of neon-lit signs, seedy bars, and some bad voodoo. With the prominence of places like Patpong, Soi Cowboy, and Khao San Road, as well as movies like “The Hangover” and “Only God Forgives,” the city has acquired an infamous reputation for the intensity of its nightlife. From dusk to dawn to dusk again, Bangkok seems to have an endless supply of midnight oil fuelling its crawling creatures. But taking a closer look at the capital at night turns the dial from wicked to well-behaved. When the sun falls and the temperatures drop, the people of Bangkok emerge. Shopping, exercising, working—beneath the superficial surface of booze and bars lies a diverse and far less degenerate array of activities, giving the phrase “the city never sleeps” a fresh meaning. The people make the city, and at night the true cogs in the machine breathe life into Bangkok.
The Sweepers of Ayutthaya. A woman on Si Ayutthaya Road sweeps the night away for a clean morning. Hainan Opera. Every so often, the Hainan Opera Company comes to town, entertaining audiences for a week at the Chinese Temple in Dusit (San Jao Mae Tubtim).
Saphan Krung Thon. Every night, about a dozen fishermen gather on the bridge north of Khao San Road for fishing sessions. The last of them leave for home just after dawn. The Colours of Pak Khlong Talad. The beautifully glowing flower market in the Old Town stays open around the clock, but it’s busiest around midnight, when a truckload of freshly cut orchids, roses, and jasmine flowers arrive.
Si Ayutthaya. In order to cater to the amount of people rushing through Bangkok on a busy morning, a woman prepares her food stall. Lumpini Park. From about 4am onwards, Bangkok’s version of Central Park gets packed with people getting fit before the sun bears down, doing tai chi or yoga or running.
Wat Benchamabophit. In Thai tradition, monks set off early in the morning to do their morning alms. While they usually make their way through town, monks at the so-called Marble Temple wait for people to come to them to make merit by giving daybreak donations, such as food and flowers.
Avocado Papdi Chaat at Punjab Grill, see p79 74 | A P R I L 2 0 1 6
bangkok101.com
AROY the real deal
They’ve always been delicious, but now Peppina’s pizzas have earned the certificate of Italian authenticity from the most discerning of diners, the Associazone Verace Pizza Napoletana, which recognizes and promotes chefs who uphold the integrity of true Neapolitan pizza. So if you’re dying for an authentic southern Italian pizza, but you’re in Bangkok—about as far away from Naples as possible—visit Chef Paolo on Sukhumvit 31.
deli bellies
The Old Town has recently welcomed a one-of-a-kind outlet. Chomp Deli, an extension of Soi Samsen’s super-hip vegan-friendly café, bar, and restaurant, sells artisanal products made by members of the local community. Breads, meats, cheeses, salads, healthy drinks, vegan and vegetarian goods, and much more are available for pre-order, delivery, or take away. Visit facebook.com/chompdelibangkok for more information.
new beans brewing
Now in its tenth year, local café Elefin has opened a fourth branch near Wat Pho. Known for its single-origin beans grown on Doi Chang in Chiang Rai, as well as its efforts to promote and support Thai coffee growers, the newest Elefin is also set up for workshops; in March, the café played host to workshops on latte art, espresso making, and coffee cupping, the last one led by Edwin Leebrick from Seattle’s Lighthouse Roastery. Stop by for an espresso (B60) or a bite from the affordable food menu. Go to elefincoffee.com to read more.
private party
Well, not really private, but rather for those in the know. Vedge In Supper Club Bangkok is an opportunity to enjoy a gourmet vegan dinner in the comfort of another person’s home. The next event takes place on April 4 at 7pm at the chef’s home in Nana, featuring a five-course dinner of unique vegan dishes enjoyed with a small party of fellow diners, bringing a concept popular in Europe to Bangkok. The location will be revealed only to those who reserve a seat. To see photos of past dinners or book a spot, go to maricelsvegancrush.com.
thong lo’s latest
72 Courtyard recently launched in Thong Lo, next door to Penny’s Balcony, across the road from J Avenue. Some of its early inhabitants include branches of much-loved Rocket Coffee Bar, Uncle, and Lady Brett, this one helmed by Jess Barnes, formerly of Opposite Mess Hall. Also occupying spots in the new lifestyle mall are Beams, a hardhitting nightclub, and Touche Hombre, a Mexican restaurant started in Australia. And this is only the start. To read more, visit 72courtyard.com.
bangkok101.com
A PRIL 2016 | 75
FOOD & DRINK
| meal deals
Sensational Seafood
Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park
952 Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplaza-bangkok.com Indulge in a bounty of fresh seafood with an all-you-can-eat buffet at Panorama every Saturday from 6pm to 10pm. Chef Marco Turatti selects only premium seafood, such as river prawns, king crabs, mussels, freshly-shucked oysters on ice, and prime Canadian lobsters. The buffet is priced at B1599 nett.
The Sea has Never Felt so Close Le Meridien Bangkok
40/5 Surawong Rd | 0 2232 8888 | lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com Every Friday and Saturday, Le Meridien’s Latest Recipe offers fresh catches from the sea on ice. Tuck in to Alaskan king crab, New Zealand mussel, prawns, and blue crabs. Don’t like it raw? Try the selection of signature seafood dishes, such as rock lobster with herb crust. There’s also a live cooking station, along with a sashimi and sushi corner, offering an element of excitement. This spread is available for B1350++ from 6pm–9.30pm.
¡Comemos!
The Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok
19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com A rare find in Bangkok, Mexicano’s El Brunch serves up a range of all-you-can-eat Mexican dishes, including guacamole, ceviche, tacos, burritos, fajitas, ribs, and desserts with the sweet serenade of Mariachi music from a live band. The brunch buffet is available from noon to 3pm at B595++ per adult and B295++ per child. Enjoy buy-one-get-one local beers or a glass of wine, starting at B100.
Summer is in Session with Khao Chae Dusit Thani Bangkok
946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com/dtbk April is the season for Khao Chae, a unique dish enjoyed during the Thai summer. Celebrate Songkran at Benjarong with this cooling Thai rice treat served with side dishes of sweetened meat, stuffed bell peppers, fried shrimp-paste balls, fried shallots, and green mango. Each scrumptious set starts at B550.
All-you-can-eat International Treats Pomodoro
GF, All Seasons Place, CRC Tower, Wireless Rd | 0 2 685 3930-1 pomodorogroup.co.th Pomodoro spans the globe with a buffet featuring a salad bar, a carving station, a pasta and noodle station, a sashimi corner, Thai delicacies, and a range of international desserts. The all-you-can-eat buffet is available from Monday to Friday for B480++ per person (for 90 min).
Shuck Treatment
The Okura Prestige Bangkok
Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com Until June 30, Up & Above will serve premium seasonal French, Australian, and American oysters that can be enjoyed with a choice of six delicious dressings: mignonette, ponzu, Thai spicy seafood sauce, spicy yuzu, cocktail sauce, and grated wasabi. A decadent sharing experience, the oysters are available in sets of four, six, eight, or twelve. Open every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 5pm onward, the pop-up oyster bar is a relaxed and luxurious way to begin an evening with friends.
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bangkok101.com
In the Journey,
a Destination: An Ode to Late Eats For a city with such a sinful reputation and shady image, Bangkok has never really been the place for wild wanderings or all-nighters, except in private. Despite the racy hit tune of the same name, one night in Bangkok usually ends earlier than one would like. Want salad buffets or bagels on every block at 4am? Try New York. Non-stop commerce and haggling at any hour? Go for Hong Kong. A Turkish kebab shop and adult videos at the ready whenever the craving should strike? Fly to Berlin. The “Open 24 Hours” culture of California has actually barely taken root here, but for the ubiquitous 7-Elevens which still have the vast convenience and cooled water market to their own. Even the bad boy bars of Nana and Soi Cowboy shut down at a reasonable hour, and the hordes of emerging dancers, ladyboys, and freelancers who flood the avenues in an astounding nightly migration are not in evidence for that long— unless they have been engaged for further services. One way to find cool night eats and hearty after-drinking carbo replacements would be to follow the members of this night industry to their chosen haunts. But that might prove a rather exhausting and unreliable method. Like many of the immense urban agglomerations slapped together by Asia’s boom, the majority of this town’s inhabitants (trendy fashion looks to the contrary) are not far removed from rural origins. Most of the neighbourhoods and back sois and even office towers move to a decidedly peasant-like pace. Up with the sun, in bed with the dark—which is not said condescendingly, since such a rhythm of life and lifestyle is undoubtedly more healthy and wholesome than the one that moves to the stimulus of artificial light and slapdash settings. Early morning Bangkok might be worthy of a lively
exploration, but Bangkok “After Dark” is this issue’s theme and a timely one. Even if the big malls close at 10pm, haunts like Thong Lo’s Soi 38 have gone the way of the dodo, most street food vendors are locked in rejuvenating sleep to recover for the next day’s standing labours, and it’s hard to find a decent restaurant along Silom or Sukhumvit where the kitchen hasn’t taken its last orders by quarter to eleven—a week back I ended up at the always-hospitable Eat Me, spending far more than I would have wished, when the only other choice at midnight was bad Lebanese or burnt livers on skewers—there is still a fair bit of action if you know where to look. At least the curfews imposed due to political troubles seem to be a thing of the past. And Bangkok’s evolution into a world city—perhaps completed when the Sky Train goes for all-nighting, too— means that it moves more and more to a global clock. A khao tam where fresh shrimp can be plunged into stick-to-your-ribs rice soup? Khao Tom Yaowarat, On Nut’s culinary cove for the creatures of the night, or Saengchai Pochana, 55 Pochana, or any Pochana in Thong Lo has what you’re looking for. A Chinatown alley where denizens of the dark suck vampire-like on the succulent bones of some of the world’s oddest animals? Stumble over to Surawong’s Hong Teong Long or the Old Town’s Jae Fai instead. Arabic dens cloaked in shisha smoke (Bamboo, AlHussain)? A one-counter refuge for wayward Japanese salarymen (Ramentei)? Trendy after-hours bars where chefs and literati spin the night away with bohemian chatter (Smalls, of course)? Yes, Bangkok does have them all. And perhaps it’s satisfying to only savour and appreciate them after the detective work required to find them.
BANGKOK 101 Food Editor John Krich has just returned from Kuala Lumpur for his second stint in Bangkok. Previously the chief food columnist and feature writer on travel, arts, and sports for the Asian Wall St. Journal, John is a native New Yorker who has authored nine books, including the classic on Asian travel Music in Every Room: Around the World in a Bad Mood, Won Ton Lust: Adventures in Search of the World’s Best Chinese Restaurant, the PEN/Hemingway Award-winning novel, A Totally Free Man, and the recent A Fork in Asia’s Road, a collection of his best food pieces. He has been a frequent contributor to major publications like TIME/Asia, Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic Traveler, The New York Times, and San Francisco Examiner. bangkok101.com
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| review
Chicon Francofoodia
Y
ou know that Bangkok has become a world eating city when places like Chicon start popping up. Some years back, it might have been quite an occasion to find a neighbourhood bistro of such exceptional quality, run by five young Belgian-French partners migrated to Thailand for this express purpose. These days, it’s almost expected to stumble on the superb devotion to detail and loyalty to true European flavours on offer here. But that doesn’t make Chicon—the name has nothing to do with chicken, by the way: it’s Belgian for endive, the fancy curl of lettuce always used for an amuse bouche here—any less exceptional. An afterthought on an unused third floor space above the popular Café des Stagiaires on increasingly hip Sathorn Soi 12, the single dining space is painted an emerald green and outfitted with aggressively eclectic décor: an old TV console beside 78 | A PRIL 2016
decadent photos of the crossdressed, candles on the table to go with piped-in Cuban charanga music. The menu of Aurel Termini—a 29-year-old from Lyons, France, tackling his first head chef assignment—is small and served on purposely casual gray pottery rounds of irregular shapes. But it’s filled with “Burning Love” (the name of a bacon-chocked side dish of mashed potatoes). Starters include a slowcooked “Egg 64” (B420) and a “Golden Riviera Pisaladiere” of vegetables and anchovies. If you don’t know what those are, head straight to Chicon for the answers. Or go for the more familiar “blow-piped” tuna in pistachio—one chunk nearly seared and accompanied by an intense nut butter (B510). At the insistence of one of Chicon’s proud co-founders, doubling as an even prouder waiter, you can take the plunge on the bistro’s “signature dish”: pig’s feet entirely denuded of all 29 bones and therefore thoroughly
un-Sinofied, cooked for six hours with mushrooms and formed into one large breaded cake, mounted on delicious potato slivers and surrounded with a wreathed garland of frisée (B620). Naturally, the St. Honoré, a crispy creampuff iced with homemade caramel, was even better (B250). And this is one restaurant where the freshbaked rounds of baguette are not just soggy or perfunctory but better than they are in Paris. For all that, a full French meal here won’t set you back more than B1200, depending, of course, on accompanying vino or cocktails. In the brave new world of Bangkok fine dining, you could either be blasé or amazed at Chicon, so rich in far-off traditions and bursting with youthful inventiveness. We choose amazed.
Chicon 2F, Le Café des Stagiaires, 142/21 Sathorn 12 08 1207 3077 Tue-Sat 7pm-11pm bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Punjab Grill Subcontinental Supremacy
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ana does not want for Indian restaurants. It’s hard to walk 100 metres without bumping into a curtain–veiled joint offering every style of Subcontinental cuisine. Yet few in the area can boast the kind of ambiance and originality that new arrival Punjab Grill achieves. The latest branch of an Indiabased empire of elegant eateries that reaches to Dubai and Singapore, Punjab Grill reveals itself behind regal wooden doors, emblazoned with its lion insignia, inside the Radisson Suites on Sukhumvit 13. Beyond the sumptuous entrance lies a dining space defined by dark wood, white linens, and three copper-cast tandoors visible behind a glass partition. Such a stately yet contemporary setting complements the slight twists and turns taken on the classic Punjabi cuisine served here. Led by Mumbai-born Chef Bharath Bhat, whose past experiences include helping to open the world’s first Armani Hotel at the Burj Khalifa in Dubai and plying the kitchen at Michelin-starred Indego by Vineet, Punjab Grill brings the manifold flavours of the north Indian state to diners in abundance. Tandoori-cooked kebabs, including prawn (B900), chicken tikka (B450), and braised and char-grilled mutton (B900), are redolent of exotic spices, like carom and coriander seed. And traditionalists will enjoy the chef’s heart-melting butter chicken (B425) and aromatic chicken dum biryani (B475), cooked with green cardamom, mace, and rose water and eaten with a dollop of refreshing house-made raita. But Chef Bharath’s deviations from tradition—his impeccable presentation and service, for example, or the foreign touches he applies, like flambéed rum drizzled over tender, slow-roasted lamb leg in tangy off-red gravy (B1500), or an amuse bouche, of all things, of avocado papdi chaat, a crispy flour cone with a creamy guacamole-like filling—amplify the bangkok101.com
excitement of exploring another side of India: its rapidly developing five-star culinary world. This is even visible in the chef’s inspired desserts. Take, for instance, a churro-like paneer jalebi (B275), or a chocolate sphere that reveals cubes of tangy kulfi (a kind of Indian ice cream) when a hot cardamom-laced chocolate sauce is poured over the top of it (B225). For all the vibrant flavours exploding and expanding on the tongue, and the skill Chef Bharath
displays in revving up Indian traditions, Punjab Grill stands out as that rarest of institutions in Bangkok—a fine dining Indian restaurant. Better yet, it cleaves closely to Punjabi heritage, transcending stereotypes while achieving culinary perfection.
Punjab Grill Radisson Suites, Sukhumvit 13 0 2645 4999 punjabgrillbangkok.com daily 6pm-11.30pm A PRIL 2016 | 79
FOOD & DRINK
| review
Enoteca Even More Originale
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efitting the name, a vast selection of Italian wine bottles line the walls of this classic Italian mainstay of Bangkok, which for the past 11 years has drawn loyal patrons to its cosy, soft-lined confines down a hard-to-find twist of Sukhumvit 27 (which is easiest to find from Sukhumvit 31). The music may be piped-in, the back counter lined with prosciuttos and rounds of Parmigiano somewhat predictable. But don’t be fooled into thinking that Enoteca ever was, or ever will be, just another spaghetti and meatballs slopper. Thanks to its vigilant Genovese owner, and its daring young Neapolitan chef Marco Pacetta, Enoteca is ready to meet all new comers and best them with an array of offerings as luxurious as they are distinctively “modern.” A liver pâté is topped with strawberry dust, a shrimp tartare with carrots, and one of the starters is a scoop of “Parmigiano ice cream”
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studded with black truffle slices instead of jimmies. Based on the efforts of Italian modernist mentors, Enoteca features an “open ravioli” in which the fresh pasta sheets burst with lobster meat swimming in a champagne foam strongly informed with vanilla. The pigeon, ultra-rare as it should be, is set off with a layer of foie gras. But best of all on a varied tasting menu of “surprises”—whose best surprise of all is that it comes in at only B1950—is a most traditional baba cake soaked not in coarse rum but rather with the subtly fragrant sweetness of Picolit wine, that rare find from Friuli. Of course, Enoteca will be happy to serve up more traditional grilled vegetable antipasti, cheeses, and vitello tonnato. But the place strives not to be more Italian-thanthou, but rather more original. The Thai staff is unusually attentive, and, of course, the collection of Barolo is exceptional too. Not to be outdone, Enoteca marinates its own lemons. In
fact, it even makes its own chocolate truffles and mango gum drops by hand. Enoteca is one Bangkok restaurant that could surely be resting on its laurels, or its bay leafs, or its oregano. But there’s no sign of complacency here and no letting up in the restaurant’s on-going exploration of anything that can fit within the flavour palate of every diner’s favourite country. Occupying a quaint—dare we say romantic—old home, one that quite admirably embodies the shape and style and general feel of its namesake, the restaurant tends to fill up rather quickly. Reservations are recommended, particularly on weekends. And this is one seat you surely won’t want to miss.
Enoteca 39 Sukhumvit 27 0 2258 4386 enotecabangkok.com daily 6pm-midnight bangkok101.com
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Juice Bar & Restaurant: 899 Sukhumvit 49 (at the corner) Klongtan-Nua,Vaddhana 0-2662-5001, 09-5251-9799
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FOOD & DRINK
| review
Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen A Shining Light of Authenticity
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t didn’t look promising. Another Italian restaurant set in a twostory house in posh Ruamrudee, re-modelled in leather-bound look to resemble a stuffy gentleman’s club. More discouraging still, the house speakers were pumping out a tired rendition of “Volare!” An hour later, with all sounds drowned out by a jampacked crowd, an endless procession of large platters, as pleasing to the eye as they were to the palate, emerging from an opening kitchen featuring a roaring wood-fired oven, and the attentive “Patron/Chef” Francesco Lenzi expounding on generations of family pride proven with its forkful, the lens on Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen was properly focused. Starting with a base of hams, sausages, and pork products imported from his family’s artisanal Slow Food butcher shop near Lucca, this young, bearded heir to the best his country has to offer has created a national showcase that caters perfectly to its 82 | A PRIL 2016
upscale diners—by always adhering to flavour over flash as its menu walks the line between the deluxe and the rustic. Here, as befitting Tuscany the emphasis is on the meats. Everything looks mouth-watering, but don’t be tempted to stray from the tagliere de Lenzi (B520/B890/B1600), an amazing pressed blood mortadella (B480), or the Bazzone (B690), a prized, chewy hunk of leg sliced personally by the patron. You could easily follow this with non-showy sausages bedded in polenta or the more substantial roasted loin. But those are just the first stop on this culinary ride. A Tartara of Sardinian Branzino (B580) combined with oranges and capers is just right, the Hokkaido scallops (B1290) so sweet they really don’t need the foie gras and truffles on top (though who’s complaining?) You can get your ravioli standard or souped-up—the foie gras in cream is good (B590), the chewy Todelli beef ones in hand-crushed tomatoes great (B490).
Desserts, which often seem perfunctory and unimaginative, are among the most brilliant offerings here—including pear poached in wine in the wood oven, combined with zabaglione and an intense chocolate gelato (B290). Lenzi’s small wine cellar is stocked with hand-picked gems, lesser-known vineyards for Chiantis, Barolos, and more that are far more subtly matched to the food than the usual larger producers’ red rotgut. How many outstanding Italian restaurants can one town in the tropics support? Judging from Lenzi, Bangkok hasn’t reached capacity. Better yet, a places like this prove, the main selling point is no longer sloppy tomato sauce but true authenticity—and stubborn loyalty to the heritage of hamming it up.
Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen Soi Ruamrudee 2 0 2001 0116 lenzibangkok.com daily 11.45am-2pm, 6pm-midnight bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
The Chinese Restaurant A Modern Twist
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hen Cantonese and Szechuan flavours meet at The Chinese Restaurant, the result is a distinctive kind of fusion that gives good reason to get out to this side of the city. Located in a well-appointed space inside the Dusit Princess, next door to Seacon Square, The Chinese Restaurant offers a great escape from the downtown hustle and bustle. The staff in qipao (a traditional Chinese dress for women) lead guests to the table, further adding to the tranquil effect this urban escape achieves. The restaurant is full of Chinese twists. In the décor, for instance, that features lots of tan and shades of red. In the Chinese porcelain, ceramic teapots, lanterns, and paintings that fill out the room. And in the classy, modern-designed private spaces that serve conferences and parties, a soigné touch to the Eastern tradition of holding important meetings over satisfying meals. The signature creations of Head Chef Suthep Sae-Lo, who has over 20 years of experience preparing contemporary and traditional Chinese cuisine, start with a banana spring roll stuffed with prawns and the chef’s own homemade salad dressing (B200++). These tender and toothsome rolls are served with plum sauce that boosts the sweetness to another level. Another promising starter is the pork spare ribs steamed in a ceramic dish (B250++). Opening the lid reveals Chinese sausage and black mushrooms resting atop fresh steamed Jasmine rice, the aroma as powerful as the taste. The shrimp balls and seaweed tofu, dressed in that most classic of sauces—XO sauce—are truly excellent (B350++). The bite-size balls, which sizzle and pop in the pan until they turn golden brown, are packed with big shrimp flavour. This relatively new addition to the menu gets elevated by the potent XO sauce. Another new treat is the Cantonese-style stuffed chicken breast (B300++). Dished out bangkok101.com
with Hoisin sauce, it reveals sweet and salty notes from one bite to the next. But Chef Suthep’s perhaps tastiest creation is the fresh sea bass stir-fried with garlic sauce, joined by black mushrooms and scallions (B350++). It may not look so fancy, but its savoury elements are extraordinary. The fish is well-cooked, crispy yet juicy, with a mouth-watering aroma arising from the garlic and scallion. The Chinese Restaurant also offers an all-you-can-eat buffet (B690)
with a variety of dim sum to choose from, as well as a choice of soup and main dish. So whether for à la carte or buffet, The Chinese Restaurant is a good bet, thanks to its welcoming air, creative spins, and affordable options.
The Chinese Restaurant GF Dusit Princess Srinakarin, 53 Srinakarin Rd 0 2721 8400 dusit.com/dusitprincess/srinakarinbangkok daily 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm A PRIL 2016 | 83
FOOD & DRINK
| review
Spasso All-in for Abruzzo
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ou know a city is finally offering genuine Italian cuisine when it ceases being labelled “Italian” at all. No, it’s only time to say arrivederci to mushy meatballs and cold spaghetti when Bangkok restaurants start advertising themselves by regional handles such as Tuscan, Roman, Milanese, Lucchese, Genovese, Sicilian, and so on. The latest evidence of this is on offer at Spasso, a restaurant that in the past has gotten somewhat lost in the shuffle of all the outlets at the Grand Hyatt Erawan—mainly because it’s in the hotel basement and doubles on weekends as a live music dance club. Ironically, the Italian representative at what has long been one of Bangkok’s most luxurious spots is now being updated and brought back to prominence by a chef from one of his native country’s most humble regions. Talk with head Chef Luca di Pietro, who has been transforming 84 | A PRIL 2016
and personalizing the Spasso menu since he came on aboard nearly a year back, and within seconds you’ll become urgently aware of his deep pride in the special cuisine of fellow Abruzzese as imbibed and inhaled since he was on his grandmother’s knee—or more likely holding onto her apron strings. Somewhat lagging behind the rest of industrial Italy, the province is best known for its rustic pastas and sausages, although Chef Luca delves even deeper into its culinary traditions. A special tasting menu of his favourite home dishes forms the heart of the new Spasso. Most prominent and prideful of these is the Stinco di Agnello al Forno, a hardly stinky lamb shank cooked in tomatoes and garlic until near decomposition (B990). And, of course, there are the pastas: the Chittarina al Granchio (B580), lemony crab informing handmade coils of “guitar” strings, and the Gnochetti (B600), also known as gnocchi, nicely
pillowy and dressed with lamb again, as well as the Abruzzo version of hard Pecorino cheese. A compressed round of ocean trout tartare makes for an exciting starter (and references Abruzzo’s long Adriatic coast and port-capital Pescara, B600). For those who miss the full range of Italian flavours, there’s always Spasso’s buffet, one of the most comprehensive in town when it comes to cold cuts, grilled vegetable antipasti, breads and pizzas, caprese salads and capers, and on and on, making diners forget regional fare or all sense of logic or diet. At a mere B895–1275, this is one of Bangkok’s better lunch bargains—and as authentic as Chef Luca as well.
Spasso Lower Lobby Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2254 6250 bangkok.grand.hyatt.com daily noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10pm; Sunday brunch noon-3pm bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK
| breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino
FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. www.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
Breaking Bread with
Chef Arnie Marcella Bangkok’s Newest Top Chef Talks with JOHN KRICH about His Culinary Credo, as well as Hunkering Down in the Bunker
I
f you want to glimpse the future of fine dining in Bangkok, look no further than inside Bunker. Behind the jutting concrete and purposely rough edge of this ambitious new three-story barrestaurant, set to dominate the growing night scene along Sathorn’s linked Sois 10 and 12, you’ll find Arnie Marcella, a young head chef 86 | A PRIL 2016
from New York bursting with battle plans. “This looks like it’s going to be the young epicentre of the city. But we chose the word bunker because the hospitality and service is going to engulf you, make you let go of the outside world and feel safe from all threats.” That’s quite an ambition, but Marcella, 33, a Filipino-American
raised in Poughkeepsie in upstate New York, seems well-prepared to leave his mark in Asia. He started cooking at his mother’s knee as soon as he “was old enough to pull a chair up to the stove,” went “down the road” from his home to attend the famed Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, has apprenticed in authentic restaurants in Italy and bangkok101.com
breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK
Mexico before putting in a decade amidst New York’s highly competitive dining scene, including work as an Executive Chef starting two modern French establishments, and, most recently, came out of the kitchen of Brooklyn’s Aldeia, a PortugueseMediterranean standard bearer that earned a Michelin star. During a month’s holiday in Thailand, he was encouraged to stick around by long-time friend Tim Butler of Eat Me restaurant and soon “fell in love with this place and the readiness for change, the excitement in the dining culture.” The articulate chef observes, “There’s a spirit here of creating an unspoken bond with customers, of the social aspect of dining, that has been lost in America.” He says that “pampering diners can be a beautiful thing, the sense of community shouldn’t be taken for granted” and he plans to “curate the dining experience from the second my patrons walk in the door.” And Bunker is designed to offer multiple and varied experiences, from its full, sophisticated first floor bar to two upper floors that include a wall of craft beer tables, long bangkok101.com
shared tables, and plenty of outdoor balcony space. “It’s supposed to be like a maze, with every room and space being different,” says Marcella. As designed by Kelly Wheatley, who also created “Eat Me,” there’s a conscious attempt to leave things unadorned in a style sometimes termed “brutalism.” But Chef Arnie doesn’t seem to have a brutal bone in his body. “I just feel very lucky to be able to influence this community in a positive way,” he declares. To that end, he has been touring local markets and farms, trying to make connections with suppliers who will be at the heart of his menu. “Honouring and uplifting local vendors is very important to me, and so are the personal connections that a restaurant breeds,” he explains. “With global warming and all the problems, chefs today have to be socially conscious. But trying to be as local as possible isn’t just politically correct, it makes for better food.” The chef isn’t unveiling his menu just yet, as Bunker will open officially sometime after the Songkran holiday. But he promises that “the environment
always changes a chef’s palate— some flavour profiles get more vibrant, others more subtle.” He’s taking classes in Thai and is clearly getting influenced by all the Thai tastes around him. “The Royal Projects for growing food also blows my mind. There’s so much that can be grown here and grown well.” Still, he promises “lots of influence from the Mediterranean, parts of Asia, and especially Japan.” And he wants to serve his plates “family-style, the way Asians eat, encouraging lots of sharing.” As for dealing with a new staff of Thai chefs and helpers, Arnie says, “You can always teach techniques, but you can’t teach the attitude of wanting to work together. It’s important for us to connect on the level of being here because we all love food and enjoy cooking.” At this “Bunker,” there will be no unpleasant or dangerous surprises. But Chef Arnie, Bangkok’s latest invader, will take no prisoners in his attempt to make sure “we pay homage to a sense of community while at the same time taking the food to another level.” A PRIL 2016 | 87
FOOD & DRINK
| in the kitchen
A
rmando Bonadonna is not a name you will find on any World’s 50 Best lists. He isn’t trendy or flashy or a publicity-seeker. He’s been a fighter in the trenches of authentic Italian cuisine for much of his life. A compact man with greying hair and fierce look through his designer glasses, Bonadonna may not be a “good woman,” as his name translates, but he is certainly one of Bangkok’s truly good chefs. As the top man at Galleria Milano, a small yet elegant corner restaurant at the back of a Sukhumvit 20 mall, outfitted to look like it’s part of that famed 19thcentury arcade at the heart of Milan, he doesn’t have a big kitchen to work with—barely room to turn around a central work station, with various ovens and steamers on shelves to all sides. He works with only a half-dozen Thais trained personally, but he does have the large budget and support of Italian ownership to import the finest ingredients. This includes some small, tender artichokes, perfectly in season now in southern Puglia, which he deftly transforms into an amazing salad. Most unusually, his sous-chef takes a mini-knife and finely slices up the stalks, leaves, and heart, while still raw, nearly into mint-green shavings. With an experienced hand, Chef Armando bathes them in just the right amount of olive oil and lemon. To this, the chef adds just the right amount of goat cheese and finally some Parmigiano shavings. His professional trick is to stuff it all into a circular mould so the salad can be served as a perfectly round heap of flavour with a garnish of sprouts. “Every night I dream of a beautiful girl,” he jokes. “But then I wake up and have ideas for dishes like this.” And he’s been doing this for as long as he can remember. Both his parents, Sicilians who moved north to settle just outside Venice, were professional cooks. “As the saying goes,” Chef Armando translates, “I was born in a pan.” 88 | A PRIL 2016
Armando Bonadonna talks to John Krich His first job, at 16, was next to his dad in the kitchen of the world-famous Hotel Danieli near the Piazza San Marco at the end of Venice’s Grand Canal. “But like most kids, I had to rebel and go out on my own.” So he has spent much of life out of his native land, in at least ten countries, many in Asia. Taking the Galleria Milano post meant a second stint in Bangkok. But all along, as he has invented a solid repertoire of tasty specialties, he has not rebelled against the basic principles of Italian cuisine. A perfect balance is achieved in a most un-Italian tuna tartare laced with soft avocado. But Chef Armando follows this with what must be one of the most quintessentially Italian of plates— an homage to his Sicilian roots that’s a single coil of al dente spaghetti bathed in a silky smooth tomato sauce that is magically charged with a strong anchovy flavour. A single actual salted sardine serves as garnish, along with a basil sprig. Like Armando, it’s simple, but strong and totally satisfying. I wish he had shown me how it was done, but perhaps he wants to keep it a secret, or he’s a bit embarrassed by the size of his work space, or, more likely, he doesn’t
want to make me a witness to “a chef’s work, which is always done with a lot of tasting and using your hands.” I barge into his inner sanctum as he is carefully composing today’s piece de resistance, succulent cubes of Italian beef flanks set on the plate in a checkerboard of alternating mounds of polenta-informed mashed potatoes. More slivers of artichoke, deep-fried this time, add subtle notes to a steak that’s truly unique. So is the almond parfait Armando produces on the premises. At Galleria Milano, you’ll find some of the very best renditions of Italian classics, like carbonara and carpaccio. But the management can’t really provide up-to-date menus because Chef Armando’s list of specials changes nearly every day. Maybe this experienced master doesn’t want me in the kitchen for too long because he’s still got so many outstanding oneof-a-kind specialties up his sleeve.
Galleria Milano Mille Malle, Sukhumvit 20 0 2663 4988 millemalle.com daily 3pm-11pm bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK
| street eats
Omelette Oyster B eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel 90 | A PRIL 2016
angkok always surprises me. Like seeing a rainbow at night, the impossible is possible in Bangkok, especially when talking about food. One night, when exploring around Charoenkrung Rd in Chinatown, I came across a Chinese opera playing in a narrow alley. The symphony of colour created by the players’ costumes combined with the dramatic stage backdrop was surprising enough but that was just the beginning. In a nearby side street, a little food cart, swathed in smoke and the unmistakeable smell of a red-hot wok, lured me away from the drama onstage towards a different kind of gastronomic opera. Mr Weng is the man behind this deliciousness. He is famous for his crispy omelette oyster, or hoy tod, which he has been turning out for more more than 50 years. Normally, he is to be found on Soi 29 at the beginning of the bridge but on this night he had been drawn away
from his usual spot by the thrill of the opera. His speciality dish is a mix of flour, oysters and eggs all fried together like an omelette. But the secret to getting this dish just right lies in finding the perfect balance between these simple ingredients. His hoy tod is famous among locals because of its crunchiness,crispiness and the sweet aroma that emanates from the mix of fish sauce and white pepper. His other secret is the cooking oil: in place of ordinary vegetable oil he uses lard (known in Thai as nam mun moo), mixed with garlic and fish sauce. Mr Weng has the timing of true master. He flips the hoy tod at precisely the right moment before adding a sprinkling of beansprouts.
Check it out: Mr Weng sets up his shop in front of Charoenkrung 29 after sunset and stays until almost midnight every day except Sunday. bangkok101.com
made in thailand | FOOD & DRINK
THREE MONKEYS RUM Who Says Three’s a Crowd? By John Krich
M
onkeys don’t usually speak German. And, as far as we know, they don’t have a special yen for fermented sugar cane. But anything is possible when it comes to Thailand. “The number three is a very lucky one of us,” explains Julian Gebhard, the youthful, exuberant, and modelhandsome co-founder of the Three Monkeys brand of rum that is quickly become one of the country’s most respected and enjoyed craft products. “Three of us created the brand”— Gebhard, partner in crime Florian Tenhagen, and veteran Austrian schnapps distiller Nikki, of Niikki Pure Spirit in Chiang Mai—“and the number appears in both Thai and English on our label, if you turn it sideways. My first son was born on March 3 and, of course, when we were first testing the rum, we decided the best was batch number three.” And Thailand, surprisingly, is actually close to number three— apparently number four—in world sugar cane production. So when the two native Berliners, 29 and 31 respectively, with long experience in the hospitality industry, F&B, on cruise ships, and as mixologists (can’t we call them bartenders anymore?), looked around for a way to utilize the best of local growers, they hit on trying to create perfect, small-batch white rum. Too bad, thanks to strict laws controlling a heavily monopolized alcoholic beverages industry, they have to call their brew “Pure Cane Molasses Spirits.” While produced in monthly batches as small as 600 in the North of Thailand, the headquarters of the burgeoning Three Monkeys empire is not on Sukhumvit 3, but 69/1, in a ramshackle townhouse above a shop house with rainbow-colored awning amidst the burgeoning hipness of Phra Khanong’s W District. The boys from Berlin live upstairs with, yes, a bangkok101.com
third partner, Julian’s Thai wife and distributor Jan—their young son Jedi makes it four when he isn’t wandering the neighbourhood—and are about to open an informal bar with outdoor seating that will offer numerous unusual brands of world spirits amidst a collection of tchotchkes from world travels, while of course featuring the finest concoctions to be made with Three Monkeys. Since the first batch in June 2015, the brand has been taken up by such quality-driven venues as Eat Me, Gaggan, and Smalls. Compared to Bacardi, Havana Club, and other industrialized rums, Three Monkeys is smoother and purer—a bit more like a special aquavit infused with hints of caramel. “They have to age theirs in barrels because the initial product is far less spectacular, not from molasses and not as pure and nontoxic as ours,” claims Julian. Given that foreign rums are also taxed 200 per cent, they thought a local variety might be done for less— and they are sure the special care they put into each bottle will win plenty of new adherents. In addition, they say they are trying to bring human and culinary evolution full circle, as research has shown them sugar cane was actually first cultivated in Southeast Asia 6000 years back—of course, it wasn’t until Columbus hit the West Indies that rum came into being. In tribute, their elegant label is printed in “Caribbean Blue.” Sketched by a German street artist, the main image is a somewhat wistful ape looking into a mirror—it all began with the concept of
“Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil” but the final simian creation stares back with a “Dare-To-Try-Me” look. Around the neck of the monkey is the kind of barrel used by mountain rescue dogs, etched with three X’s (of course). Are they trying to say that this new alternative will rescue rum drinkers from the mass produced and humdrum? Naturally, aside from their bar, the Monkey gang are planning to end up with, yes, three rums—adding dark and aged varieties. Competing against huge conglomerates that entice bar owners with package deals, rebates, and free trips, Julian and Florian are devil-maycare Millennials who say, “We’re just looking to have a good life. We’re not expecting or wanting to end up on the Forbes 100 list.” For now, monkeying around in their new bar seems reward enough.
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feature | FOOD & DRINK
Gaggan Wins Again Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Arrives in Bangkok, Celebrating a Year of Fine Dining in one of the Continent’s Rising Culinary Capitals
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or the second year in a row, Bangkok’s Gaggan has been crowned the Best Restaurant in Asia—and, obviously, the Best Restaurant in Thailand, too—at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, the culinary awards sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. Making the restaurant’s ranking extra special is that the ceremony was held in the Thai capital for the first time, at the W Hotel Bangkok and its stately House on Sathorn.
bangkok101.com
“It’s sweeter, tastier, and juicier to win in the city where we live,” says Chef Gaggan of what it means to take home the top spot in his adoptive hometown. “We are delighted to have hosted Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in Bangkok for the first time—and the city more than lived up to its reputation as one of the world’s most exciting food destinations,” says William Drew, Group Editor of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and Restaurant
magazine. “Chefs from across Asia and beyond came to Thailand not only to celebrate their mutual success, but also to explore the culinary riches on offer. We certainly enjoyed being in Bangkok and experiencing the legendary Thai hospitality.” The top 50 of 2016 were revealed before an audience of the region’s most celebrated chefs, restaurateurs, and industry VIPs. Chefs Jacobo Astray, Fatih Tutak, and David Thompson represented Bangkok’s
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culinary scene by serving specially crafted dishes at various points throughout the evening. And Chef Thompson—whose nahm again ranked in the top 10, claiming the number eight spot this year—was also honoured with The Diners Club® Lifetime Achievement Award, a fitting tribute to one of Thai cuisine’s most vocal, visible, and visionary advocates. Also representing Thailand were Issaya Siamese Club, which rose 20 places to number 19, and Eat Me, which came in at number 23. It was another stellar showing for the host city, as Bangkok continues 94 | A PRIL 2016
to establish itself as a top dining destination beyond street-level. Among other nations’ individual awards, Narisawa ranked number two overall and the Best Restaurant in Japan for a fourth consecutive year. Japan also welcomed three newcomers to the list in 2016, including rural Fukuoka-based La Maison de la Nature Goh (number 37), whose Chef Goh has been collaborating with top-ranking Chef Gaggan in recent months. Chef André Chang’s eponymous André came in at number three, ranking as the Best Restaurant in Singapore for the fourth year in a row, and another
of his outlets, Raw, which is based in Taipei, also cracked the top 50. The Chef’s Choice Award went to Chef Paul Pairet, whose two restaurants—avant-garde Ultraviolet and influential Mr & Mrs Bund, both in Shanghai—wowed contemporaries. The award for Asia’s top female chef went to the enterprising Chef Margarita Forés of Cibo, Grace Park, and Lusso in Manila, as fine an accomplishment as any for one of the top chefs in the Philippines, regardless of gender.
For more information about Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, visit theworlds50best.com/asia. bangkok101.com
feature | FOOD & DRINK
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50 Best Explores showed Chefs Ashley Palmer-Watts, Peter Gilmore, and Joan Roca a more local and real side of Thailand
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feature | FOOD & DRINK
Royal Tour The First “50 Best Explores” Showed the World’s Top Chefs how Thailand has Swapped Poppy Seeds for Sustainability
W
hen you have three of the best chefs in the world over a visit, you probably want to take them out for some fancy food shopping. Thailand did just that. The first of many planned expeditions of “50 Best Explores” took
Jangprai of Iron Chef of Thailand, Master Chef Nooror Somany Steppe of Blue Elephant, and Chef Nan Bunyasaranand of Little Beast. A model for all Southeast Asia that began nearly 60 years back, the Royal
Projects, as initiated and envisioned by Thailand’s King Bhumibol Ayuladej himself, taught and encouraged the country’s numerous hilltribes to give up opium production in favour of over 300 kinds of vegetables, fruits and
top chefs Joan Roca, chef-owner of El Celler de Can Roca in Girona (number one on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list), Ashley Palmer-Watts, executive chef of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London (number seven on the list), and Peter Gilmore, executive chef of Quay in Sydney (number 58 in the world ranking), in search of environmentally-friendly ingredients and inspiration, but also the remarkable people at the source.
This global gastro quest coincided with the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, also held for the first time in Bangkok on February 29 at the W Hotel. Over five days, the visiting culinary wizards, all major advocates of sustainability and local suppliers, were shown around the Royal Projects in the hills north of Chiang Mai—in the company of three Thai cooking luminaries: Chef Chumpol bangkok101.com
Part of the programme included close interaction with hilltribes
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The three master chefs get an up-close look at life in Thailand, from the farm to the kitchen
herbs, grown with the finest gourmet quality and sustainable methods where deforestation and poverty had once been the rule. Together, the chefs toured this exotic showcase of social activism through food at its best. Combing fields in misty mountains, the chefs got to sample the freshest produce, from strawberries to spinach. Chefs Nan and Ashley even got up-close and personal with farmed sturgeon and slippery trout, somehow catching the colossal freshwater fish with their bare hands. The trip was a revelation for the Thai contingent as well. Said Chef Nan, “The experience of speaking with the people who grow the fish and how they get it to market entirely changed my perspective.” Even more memorable for Australian restaurateur Gilmore was cooking in the home of a tribal chief—a home that only recently got electricity— working together to prepare a soup of boiled taro root, chilli paste, wild garlic, and local herbs and vegetables. 98 | A PRIL 2016
So touched was Chef Ashley that he urged more of his compatriots to visit the area and join one of the outstanding homestays in the hills around the Royal Projects. And Spanish Chef Joan, already widely hailed for his social awareness, got an in-depth look at the coffee growing process, from picking beans to roasting and grinding them. He walked away equally impressed with the way the initiative comes full circle. “Highquality crops [grown in] the Royal Projects are being consumed in the best restaurants in Bangkok,” he said. “This trip showed me [how] fantastic a country Thailand is.” Even veteran Chef Nooror, creator of the famed Blue Elephant chain, found new sources of inspiration in the North. “In the future, I think I’ll use more rosemary and Italian basil,” she said. The group was also personally hosted at his rustic retreat and guest house by the long-time leader of the Royal Projects, His Serene Highness Prince M.C. Bhisatej Rajani.
Following the trip, the three Thais prepared a mouth-watering meal, under the tutelage of their prize-winning mentors, made with the produce they plucked from the North, served March 4 at Chef Nooror’s stately Blue Elephant. Chef Nan came up with a unique trouble crumble, while Chef Nooror tried a chicken in macadamia sauce set amidst herbs and flowers— all four courses were brilliantly plated in a playful yet sophisticated manner. The three foreign guests spoke admiringly of what the success story they had witnessed—and tasted—in Thailand’s farthest reaches. But most memorable of all was the appearance of Prince M.C. Bhisatej Rajani himself, in his 90s but still fiercely committed to the welfare of the hilltribes and fondly recalling his first conversations with the King to launch an initiative that took so many from drug trafficking to proudly offering a rich harvest to some of the best restaurants in the world. The “50 Best Explores” could not have gone to a more fitting place or gotten off to a better start. bangkok101.com
Galleria Milano EATING THE ITALIAN WAY
open daily lunch 11:30 a.m 14:00 p.m. afternoon tea break 14:00 p.m. 18:00 p.m. dinner 18:00 p.m. 23:00 p.m.
Galleria Milano
ltalian Restaurant
66/4 Sukhumvit Rd., Soi 20 Mille Malle Millennium Residence
Klongtoei , Bangkok 10110 Tel. 02-6634988
ristorantegalleriamilano @gmail.com www.galleriamilanorestaurant.com
FOOD & DRINK
| listings
american LITTLE BEAST 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13 | 0 2185 2670 facebook.com/littlebeastbar | Tue-Sat 5.30pm1am, Sun 5.30-midnight An intimate gastro-bar suited to grazing and glugging or a bit of both, featuring a menu of New American dishes, which are delicious and exotic twists on old world standbys (e.g. truffle fries).
MOULIN 88 Thong Lor Soi 5 | 0 2712 9348 moulinsquare.com | 5.30pm-11pm, Fri-Sun also 5.30-11pm With a menu that shoots off in different directions, the lack of clearly identifiable theme may throw some diners, but the food — broadly defined as trendy New York fare — does not disappoint.
chinese BAI YUN 59F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet offers high-quality ingredients you can actually savour.
SHANG PALACE 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com Lunch Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, Sun 11am3pm, Dinner daily 6pm-10.30pm The interior is stunningly elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the restaurant’s signature dishes are serious standouts.
french J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli | 0 2119 4899 | jaime-bangkok.com Open daily 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm The classic cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day. 100 | A PRIL 2016
SAVELBERG GF, Oriental Residence Bangkok, 110 Wireless Rd | 0 2252 8001 | savelbergth.com | Mon-Sat 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm French in flavour and elegance, but imbued with influences from the Netherlands, the food is befitting the chef’s pedigree and befitting of the restaurant’s refined ambience.
indian BAWARCHI Level B, Intercontinental Chidlom, 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0101-3 | bawarchiindian. com | Open daily 11am-11pm The kind of curries you’ve been missing. Rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious.
RANG MAHAL 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | Open daily 6pm-11pm Meaning “palace of colours,” there sure is a courtly air about the place, down to the refined, delicate food. The proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs and curries come out.
international BROCCOLI REVOLUTION 899 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2662 5001 | Open daily 7am-10pm The brick-walled warehouse turned vegfriendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the biggest bacon-and-eggs disciples.
CREPES & CO 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also CentralWorld and Thonglor Soi 8) | 0 2652 0208 | facebook.com/crepesnco | 9.30am11pm The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat.
ELEMENTS 25F The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com | Open daily 6pm10.30pm An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” translated as the use of seasonal produce. The menu bangkok101.com
listings | FOOD & DRINK is divided into an à la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option.
JONES THE GROCER GF, EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier | 0 2261 0382 | facebook.com/ jonesthegrocerthailand | Open daily 10am11pm At Jones the Grocer, breakfast is served all day, the smell of coffee constantly permeates the air, and desserts fly off the shelf. Jones is as cosy and welcoming as a gourmet store can get.
KIOSK CAFÉ 65 Sukhumvit 26 | 0 2259 4089 | kiosk-cafe.com Tue-Thu 10.30am-9pm, Fri-Sun 10.30am-11pm Located at the Backyard in Sukhumvit 26, the Kiosk Café is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cake-andchat, hot coffee, and a cold nose.
PARK SOCIETY Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com | Open daily Kitchen 6pm-10.30pm, Bar 5pm-2am Excite both your taste buds and eyes with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner overlooking Lumpini Park and the amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect for a romantic evening or a friendly get-together.
SEASONAL TASTES The Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259 Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2207 8000 | westingrandesukhumvit. com | Open daily 6am-11pm This all-day dining restaurant serves an enticing range of gourmet international cuisine in a visually dramatic setting which features open kitchens and live cooking stations allowing for interaction between chef and diner.
TABLES GRILL Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | Mon to Sat Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants, and the menu, billed as pan-European, takes full advantage of the theatre. As entertaining as it is satisfying.
THE KITCHEN TABLE 2F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd 0 2344 4000 | whotelsbangkok.com/ thekitchen_table | Open daily 6.30am-10.30pm A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for bangkok101.com
breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Good food and an ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles.
italian AZZURRO 253/2 Sukhumvit 31 | 0 2003 9597 azzurrorestaurant.asia | Fri-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm Azzurro is a new Italian addition to the bustling food street. The extensive menu of this quaint, two-story restaurant is inspired by the flavours of the different regions of Italy.
DON GIOVANNI Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd | 0 2541 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, 8pm-10.30pm The menu is full of home-style recipes, the concept rarely straying from traditional Italian. Along with neo-classical décor, the culinary approach lends Don Giovanni a decorous air befitting its operatic name.
GALLERIA MILANO Mille Malle, Sukhumvit 20 | 0 2663 4988 millemalle.com | Open daily 3pm-11pm An Italian restaurant in the hands of Italians, where the pride is tasted in every bite, serves as the inspiration for a restaurant aiming to conquer the city.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA 2F The Terrace 49 building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 0 2204 1731 | labottega.name | Mon 5.30-11pm, Tue-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11pm A relaxed, welcoming space with indooroutdoor seating. Chef Luca updates the menu regularly and orders produce from Italy every fortnight. It’s all rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion.
ROSSINI’S Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2649 8364 | rossinisbangkok.com | Open daily 6pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The menu has lots of modern touches that reimagine traditional Italian styles. Also has more reasonable wine prices than many restaurants in this bracket, promising “top shelf wines at cellar prices.”
SCALINI Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | Open daily Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm A PRIL 2016 | 101
FOOD & DRINK
| listings
Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists.
SORRENTO Sathorn Soi 10 | 0 2234 9933, 0 2234 9841 facebook.com/SorrentoSathorn| Sun-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11am-12am A collaboration between expert culinary team who pioneer Italian and European cuisine in Thailand and award winning bartender team
japanese KISSO
seafood CRAB AND CLAW Fl 7, Helix Bldg, EMQuartier | 09 6197 5769 | facebook.com/crabandclaw | daily 10am-10pm Ensconced on an upper curve of the EMQuartier, Crab and Claw features the perfect appetite (and spending power) for “New England-style” lobster, clams, and all the trimmings.
RAW BAR 440/9 Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2713 8335 | facebook. com/TheRawBarBKK | daily 5.30pm –12am Oysters, tartare, carpaccio, ceviche: it’s all raw here, and it’s all very good. A nice low-key spot to shuck some shellfish and hang out with friends.
8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259 Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2207 8000 kissojapaneserestaurant.com | Open daily 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Becoming modern mastery of timehonoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, the restaurant has offered the Kisso way of Japanese cuisine for two decades as the place for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok.
TAIHEI 53/54F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm There’s a real commitment to quality leading the charge at Taihei. The food is beautiful, and it tastes great, to boot. Honest-to-goodness Japanese served from atmospheric heights.
mexican MÉJICO 2F, Groove@Central World | 0 2252 6660 mejico.asia | Open daily 11am-late The menu tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
MEXICANO Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | facebook.com/mexicanobkk Open daily 5pm-12am; Sat brunch 12pm-3pm Having merely moulted the Señor Pico moniker, Bangkok’s original Mexican restaurant, Mexicano now builds on a foundation whose house is indeed the house of all for outstanding Mexican cuisine. 102 | A PRIL 2016
Start with a big bowl of chunky, homemade clam chowder, before moving on to the main attraction: flame-broiled steaks, including New York strip loin, rib eye, filet mignon, and Australian T-bone.
thai 80/20 1052-1054 Charoen Krung 26 | 08 7593 1936 facebook.com/8020bkk | Wed-Mon 5pm11.45pm Sharing a massive former warehouse with Oldtown Hostel, 80/20’s the place where the best Thai Local Products are combined with the highest passion in hospitality.
BENJARONG Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | Open daily 6pm-10pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The Dusit Thani’s signature Thai restaurant offers inventive dishes from the Kingdom’s annals, from north to south.
BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL VOLTI RISTORANTE & BAR Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com/ bangkok | daily 6pm-10.30pm The restaurant offers authentic modern Italian dishes accompanied by great live music in the comfort of ‘at-home’ luxury.
steak & Burger BABETTE’S THE STEAKHOUSE Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan RD | 0 2630 4000 | babettesbangkok.com | Lunch 12pm3pm, Dinner 6pm-12am An intimate 1920s Chicago style eatery at award-winning Hotel Muse Bangkok, serving up the best steak in Bangkok against a glittering city backdrop.
THE CHOP 9F The Helix Quartier | 0 2003 6275 facebook.com/thechopbkk | daily 10am-10pm With its crimson banquettes and industrial-look interior, The Chop is aptly dressed for the part as a purveyor of authentic US-style BBQ.
THE U.S. STEAKHOUSE 156-158 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 08 7993 3527 theussteakhouse.com | Tue-Sat 4pm-10.30pm
233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 blueelephant.com | Open daily 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, the flagship sits in a gorgeous old mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish.
BO.LAN 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | 0 2260 2962 | bolan. co.th | Tue-Sun 11.30am-10.30pm Authentic, but daring, Thai food at one of the top restaurants in Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this place is so popular year after year.
ERR 394/35 Maharaj Rd | 0 2622 2291-2 | errbkk. com | Tues-Sun 11am-late As an old shophouse with the funkiest of tasteful trimmings, the restaurant takes its name from the most common Thai form of assent which mirrors the local experience of finding good food in low-key surroundings.
ERAWAN TEA ROOM 2F, Erawan Bangkok Mall, 494 Rajadamri Rd | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | 0 2254 6250 |Open daily 10am-10pm, Afternoon Tea 2.30pm-6pm bangkok101.com
listings | FOOD & DRINK Known for its amazing high tea, this place also serves traditional Thai cuisine in a nostalgic setting that overlooks the consistently crowded Erawan Shrine. Packaged products and a wide selection of teas from India, China, Sri Lanka, and Thailand are also available.
RUEN URAI The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd | 0 2266 8268-72 | ruen-urai.com | daily 12pm-11pm Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients.
SALA RATTANAKOSIN BANGKOK 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 0 2622 1388 | salarattanakosin.com | Open daily 7am10.30am, 11am-4.30pm, 5.30pm-10pm Thanks to the vistas, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. The menu offers comfort food and a few Euro items, too. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass.
SIAM WISDOM 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2260 7811 siamwisdomcuisine.com | Open daily noon2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Expertly refined flavours separated with elegance and delivered with brio. As the name suggests, Siam Wisdom delivers the best kind of culinary education.
SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2714 7708 soulfoodmahanakorn.com | Open daily 5.30pm-12am
bangkok101.com
Run by an American food writer turned chef, this tiny Thong Lo establishment serves some of the most authentic Thai food in the city and is a sure bet for a great meal.
STEVE CAFÉ AND CUISINE 68 Sri Ayuthaya Rd | 0 2281 0915, 0 2280 2989 | stevecafeandcuisine.com | Open daily 11am-11pm Given the number of mass-produced seafood gardens and tourist coffee shops exploiting the romance of the Chao Phraya, what’s remarkable about Steve is that they come pretty close to homemade.
THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953 | facebook.com/ TheNeverEndingSummer | Open daily 11am11pm Located in Thonburi, occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers an extensive, changing menu inspired by the favourite childhood dishes of one of the owners.
THE OWL 194/16-17 Ladprao Rd| 09 6016 2499| facebook.com/owlbkk | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight A three-story bar-bistro offering Lad Phrao a refined spin on the local cantina. There’s delicious Thai food to be shared, wellcrafted cocktails, and a warm ambiance that lends itself to conversation.
THE SUMMER HOUSE PROJECT 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953 facebook.com/TheNeverEndingSummer Open daily 11am-11pm
Next door to the original restaurant The Never Ending Summer, the new branch is one of the best spots in Thonburi to properly indulge in the hearty, the soothing, and the non-Asian offering one of the most beautiful riverside views of Chao Phraya river with clinically clean lines and an open kitchen.
vietnamese LE DALAT 7F The Emquartier | 0 2269 1000 | ledalatbkk. com | Open daily 10am-10pm The newest branch of stately Le Dalat finds it in unusual territory—Bangkok’s most cutting-edge supermall—but its fresh Vietnamese fare is still as impeccable as ever.
SAIGON RECIPE 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2662 6311 | saigon-recipe.com | Open daily 11am10pm The well-designed dishes at the restaurant reward closer inspection, as traditional flavours reveal themselves in prescribed order. The portions are perfect for sharing.
XUAN MAI 351/3 Thong Lo | 0 2185 2619 xuanmairestaurant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30 There’s some overlap with Thai food in the ingredients and flavours, but the exquisite combinations at this much-loved shophouse are subtle and more complex than many Thai dishes. A Thong Lor stand-out.
A PRIL 2016 | 103
wishbeer home bar see p107
104 | A PRIL 2016
bangkok101.com
NIGHTLIFE double trouble
Studio Lam has a couple of good gigs happening this month. On April 1, Dubway Sessions brings in Macka B, the legendary British reggae artist. The Rastafarian will be supported by Bangkok’s own Maft Sai and Dragon; tickets are B400, which includes one drink. Then, on April 8, the bar plays host to some psyched-out grooves from DJ Paul Unglo, who headlines Surrealistic People No. 7. Maft Sai will again be supporting. To read more about both shows, visit facebook.com/ studiolambangkok.
rumble in the concrete jungle
This ought to be interesting. At the DJ Fight Night at Live RCA on April 3, six of Bangkok’s top DJs don Muay Thai attire and hit the ring: Dan Buri v. Tekayu Harrington, Alex Fischer v. Tim Kopp, and Matteo Ianna v. Cedric Gautier, duking it out over three two-minute rounds. The DJs will have trained for a month by this point, but it’s all for fun and a good cause, as 20 per cent of the proceeds go charities that support women and children victims of abuse. Go to facebook.com/ livercabangkok for more details.
ask me later
British metalcore band Asking Alexandria comes to Hollywood Awards (Ratchadaphisek Soi 8) on April 3. The band has gone through a series of minor stylistic transformations, and its most recent album, From Death to Destiny, represents its most mature to date. Tickets are B1800 at the door. Visit facebook.com/indypopconcerts for more information.
destroyer
bangkok101.com
Dan Bejar, the founder and frontman of indie rock group Destroyer, plays his first show in Bangkok on April 23. The band has been around since 1996, receiving widespread critical acclaim for its 2011 release Kaputt, which was followed by the lesser praised but still brilliant Poison Season in 2015. Bejar is known for his intelligent and often abstract lyrics, as well as his distinctive, almost undulating vocals. It all adds up to a sumptuous sound best listened to in intimate spaces, such as Live RCA, where the show kicks off with supporting act Gorn Clw taking stage at 8pm. For more information, check facebook.com/livercabangkok.
A PRIL 2016 | 105
NIGHTLIFE
| review
W XYZ Bar Crafting Cocktails in Style
W
ith its latest revamp, W XYZ Bar continues to transform Bangkok’s nightclub experience. The stairs leading to the bar from the ground-floor lobby reveal vibrant neon lights, and the wall is done up with select works from local artists. While it all amounts to a totally modern and light-hearted atmosphere, W XYZ Bar has more to offer beyond cuttingedge design. Gone are the bar’s once-signature molecular cocktails, replaced by “Craft Cocktails” realized not by bartender or mixologist but “craftsman.” Premade mixes and artificial flavours are left in the cupboard. W XYZ Bar’s ingredients are all fresh and made in house. Look no further than the DIY cocktail for proof (B260++). Pick two fresh ingredients lined up at the bartop, including ginger, orange, cinnamon, chilli, and lemongrass. Then let the craftsmen do their work. When all is said and done, you get an exclusive drink made to your liking. A spin on the Craft Cocktails, the signature Chilli Craft Cocktails represent local tastes through different kinds of chillies and spice levels. A highlight of these is the Spicy Kaffir Lime Bubbles (B280++), a blend replicating the flavour of a quality tom yam through vodka, kaffir lime leaves, chilli syrup, lime juice, and soda water. The Fiery Mangtini (B280++) is aptly intense, featuring fresh mango, vanilla-infused vodka, chilli syrup, and lime juice. While not Thai, per se, the Mint Whiskey (B280++), made up of mint-infused whiskey, lemon juice, and cherry syrup, achieves a potent herby aroma and smooth finish that will please any palate. It looks simple enough, but it’s not a drink just anyone can make. Like your hangovers hard-hitting and potentially long-lasting? Go for a few rounds of the signature shot, The Daredevil (B180++). Comprised of Absinthe, vanilla-scented vodka, and fresh rosemary, the shot is set aflame, 106 | A PRIL 2016
if desired, and its taste, while smooth, definitely has some burn. But you can counteract tomorrow’s pain with some of W XYZ’s well-executed small plates, which include Margherita Pizza (B250++), Nacho Corn Chips (B150++), Thai Chicken Satay (B150++), and Smoked Salmon Rolls (B250++). Stop by for the craft experience (including craft beer) and also enjoy a variety of fun deals. For example, this April W XYZ is offering the classic “buy-one, get-one” on Fridays, as well
as a special gin cocktail to anyone who shows a boxing gym membership card. But beyond deals and drinks, the club still claims some of the hottest live entertainment in town. And that’s reason enough to return to this posh nightspot time and again.
W XYZ Bar Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 7000 aloftbangkoksukhumvit11.com daily 5pm-1am bangkok101.com
review | NIGHTLIFE
Wishbeer Home Bar Change is Brewing
W
e can stop holding our collective breath. The Wishbeer Home Bar was not just a pop-up, based as it was for six months in the sales office and showroom of The Lofts Ekamai. The bar has not gone away, but rather beefed up from its test phase. It’s now back and bigger than ever at its new digs on the corner of Sukhumvit 67, where, though it remains a work in progress, it already welcomes satisfied beer drinkers by the dozens each night. A gray-walled passage serving as the current entryway reveals a cavernous warehouse done up with indigo-coloured couches, stylish Wishbeer insignia, and the trademark shelf and fridge full of bottled beer that fans will remember from the previous pop-up. With a badminton court still visible on the floor, only recently installed air con (which it had been lacking for a surprising amount of time), and a general unfinished feel, bangkok101.com
the new Home Bar could be mistaken for a Crossfit gym or a storehouse for large appliances. In fact, founder Jérôme Le Louer intended for the room fronting Sukhumvit to be the bar once renovations were complete and Wishbeer’s stock was brought over from its current storage space. But positive feedback from clientele about the high-ceilinged, hideawaytype bar in back led the laconic French beer boffin to change his mind. Instead, he explains, when all is said and done, guests will walk through a bottle shop—possibly the biggest in the city—to get to the bar, where there will also be a kitchen, as well as occasional appearances of popular food trucks, such as El Mariachi. But, anyway, the beer. There’s a lot of it. Wishbeer claims roughly 500 kinds at its warehouse, all available for home delivery via wishbeer.com. For the time being, the Wishbeer Home Bar offers over 150 different bottles. Guests are welcome to grab one off
the shelf, have it placed in the fridge, and then enjoy it once its temperature is to their liking. Or they can order from the 15 rotating beers on tap, ranging from the likes of Brewdog Punk IPA to Evil Twin’s Yin Imperial Stout to the pale green, herb-infused Mont Blanc La Verte (select beers B120 half/B200 pint during 5pm-7pm happy hours; normally B290/pint). It’s not all craft, but it is all excellent, and variety reigns. Maybe owing to Wishbeer’s roots as an online-only start-up, the Home Bar feels under development. Like most start-ups, it may always be. But the bar is already pretty great, and the future looks bright. It will be worthwhile to revisit (and often) to see how it grows.
Wishbeer Home Bar Sukhumvit Soi 67 0 2392 1403 wishbeerhomebar.com daily 7.30am-1am A PRIL 2016 | 107
NIGHTLIFE
| feature
Sunju Hargun
Sebastian Keusch
Tristan Kino
The scene in Berlin 108 | A PRIL 2016
bangkok101.com
feature | NIGHTLIFE
Sounds
of Revolution WAHTIHDAH SHANNON DUFFY Digs Deep into Bangkok’s Underground Electronic Scene
T
hong Lo’s flashy night scene has always brought out the city’s youngest in packs. Upscale clubs like Demo and Muse offer Bangkok’s elite a seen-and-beseen environment to break out to the beat of mainstream music. But while Thong Lo undeniably sets the tempo for the city’s nightlife, unbeknownst to the throngs of its regulars, an entirely alien scene of underground techno music has emerged—and it’s quickly gaining traction among those in-theknow. Though not entirely new to Bangkok, techno music has come a long way in permeating the sois of the city’s underground culture. “It’s a movement,” says DJ Tristan Kino, formerly of Paris. “You call it ‘underground’ because you don’t get everything directly in your hands. You have to keep yourself informed every day…you meet people, talk, and find out when the next gig is going to happen.” Techno music, though known to exist in much of European and American underground cultures, is not readily understood or even consciously acknowledged among mainstream lovers of electronic music in Thailand. A genre of soulful electronic sound birthed from the dilapidated streets of Detroit in the 80s, techno was an instrumental tool of rebellion among the recluses of society; it was the music that bangkok101.com
emerged from the anger and resentment that the Detroitians felt at not being “connected” to the city. The movement later turned into a startling passion for the beat. Techno became an iteration of soulful yet precise electronic music that later expanded
internationally and resonated among the troubled youth cultures of major European cities. “Everything happened differently in each country,” Kino explains. “All this music was aimed toward the part of society that was outside—the misfits.
Techno began as a reaction to sociocultural conditions
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NIGHTLIFE
| feature Studio Lam
Glow Bangkok
DJ Nakadia at Live RCA For example, the conflict in Berlin was how [the city] came to have focused beats with faster kicks and higher BPM [beats per minute].” So how is it that in Bangkok—a city whose youth arguably have no rebellious initiative—an ever-growing techno scene has been established without a fundamental countercultural element? Sebastian Keusch, co-founder of Sunn, Bangkok’s biggest house and techno event series, believes that the city’s flourishing scene is a result of Westerners residing here. “It’s coming from the older guys who grew up with the underground in Europe and the US and are trying to find it in Bangkok, as well,” he explains. But among the newer generations of fans, Kino believes the underground scene in Bangkok to be more of a result of the excitement surrounding the music rather than the emotional pull and context behind it. “There isn’t a revolt happening,” he clarifies. “It’s just hype here.” However, in a city where many of the natives have not yet been exposed to techno music, 10-year110 | A PRIL 2016
old Glow Club in Asoke has been a pivotal game-changer in catalysing the underground scene. “Glow are the true pioneers. It’s ‘where it all started,’ you could say,” posits Keusch. What makes Glow stand out among its underground compatriots is the properly curated atmosphere: a dark room, minimal lighting, and an upgraded sound system in hand with talented acts, both international and local. Yet while Glow and other venues, such as Live RCA, have a distinct advantage in being able to lasso international acts, local heroes like DJ Sunju Hargun ensure residents of the techno world stay satisfied with independent events, including the recurring “Inhale Exhale.” At the same time, the Japanese underground scene heard in 12 x 12 and Goya Bar, as well as the far-flung sounds of Studio Lam, have made waves in the culture of electronic music in Bangkok. Even Sebastian Keusch has noticed a huge change in the last two years. “Every weekend you have at least five to ten choices—you don’t even know where to go anymore.”
With roots of the underground world taking hold, engrained as relevant in nightlife subcultures, the potential for Bangkok to gain gravitas in Asia’s electronic scene is clear. Keusch agrees, suggesting that Bangkok has everything it needs to become a major player across the continent, from the infrastructure, the central location, and even the quality and depth of international DJs coming to town. “We just need to put it together and make something out of it,” he explains. Though the techno cultures of Detroit and Berlin were birthed from reactions to socio-political climates, Bangkok’s infantile scene doesn’t have to be a movement defined by resistance. For now, it can be an embodiment of the youth cultures’ ideals or a means of expressing complex emotions. It’s becoming increasingly obvious, in any case, that the city’s techno scene will continue to evolve across time and rhythm. In a few years, Thong Lo will have switched tracks. Are we another Berlin? Maybe not. But, in this context, being Bangkok matters most of all. bangkok101.com
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NIGHTLIFE
| imbibe
Raising The Bar Anan “James” Ouaroon Takes the Old Fashioned to the Next Level
The Bar’s Extra Old Fashioned • • • • • • 112 | A PRIL 2016
In an Old Fashioned glass, combine a teaspoon of simple syrup with three dashes of aromatic, lemon, and orange bitters Fill the glass half-way with cubed ice and stir about 10 times Add 30ml of Chivas Regal Extra Top off the glass with cubed ice and stir again Wipe the rim of the glass with sliced orange peel Garnish with orange peel and a maraschino cherry bangkok101.com
imbibe | NIGHTLIFE
The Bar at The Peninsula Bangkok oozes elegance. The lounge-like space is low-lit, filled out with rich woods, and intimate, encouraging close-quartered chatter between bartender and patron. It’s a ritzy version of the kind of bar you would want in your own home, an arena crying out for loosened neckties, jazz and blues music, and strong cocktails made with quality aged whisky. Fittingly, Head Bartender Anan “James” Ouaroon has got that last part covered. A classic at a classic, both reimagined. James is a master of the Extra Old Fashioned, his take on that most quintessential of whisky cocktails, made with three kinds of bitters— aromatic, lemon, and orange—as well as the special addition of Chivas Regal Extra. “Some people like to use bourbon,” says the laconic barman with a grin, straightening the black tie beneath his starched cream-coloured vest. “We spiced things up with Chivas Regal Extra.” The fruity, floral elements of the elegant Speyside blended Scotch whisky flawlessly complement the flavour bangkok101.com
profiles of the three different bitters. It took James a few tries to get the taste to his liking, though. “I had to find the perfect balance of bitters,” he explains, gathering ingredients for his signature cocktail. “After a couple of weeks, I finally got it.” Since the Extra Old Fashioned joined The Bar’s regular line-up a few months ago, it has been a fan favourite. James says that’s because it’s as perfect a drink before dinner as it is after, a starter or a nightcap with a pleasant aroma and smooth, balanced finished. Plus, a guest can order the Extra Old Fashioned and enjoy it anywhere at The Peninsula—not just at The Bar. James combines simple syrup with three dashes of each of the bitters. Then he adds a 30ml pour of Chivas Regal Extra and some cubed ice and stirs. As he runs orange peel around the rim of the glass, he talks a bit about the philosophy that guides his mixology. At The Bar, James begins, the aim is to bring local culture to clientele “where it’s suitable with the cocktail”: vodka infused with lemongrass, mojitos muddled with chillies, martinis made
with a Thai twist, herbs plucked from the garden growing beside The Peninsula’s pool. He has been doing this at The Bar for 10 years, creating slightly renovated styles of classic cocktails that hold true to tradition with his tight-knit team. Now they’re working on a special kind of Negroni. After that, a martini. “I’m making my own bitters at home, too,” says James, who is also a high-ranking wine sommelier—a Renaissance man, in other words. But still James and his team are crazy about their Extra Old Fashioned. So much so that it will remain a permanent fixture on the menu even when they have perfected and promoted their new drinks. It just fits so neatly with The Bar, which is about as close to a true whisky lounge as it gets. Wooden louvered blinds, a hard marble bartop, minimal oil paintings on the wall—all that’s missing is a fine cigar. But that can be enjoyed al fresco by the riverside. It’s pretty clear that all the elements are aligned at The Peninsula, where chilled-out evenings are taken up a notch with impeccable cocktails crafted by a man who has truly raised The Bar. A PRIL 2016 | 113
NIGHTLIFE
| listings
bars 22 STEPS BAR Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Rd | 0 2207 4999 | hotelindigo.com/bangkok A great place to unwind, enjoying a cocktail or fine cigar while watching the world go by. Enjoy buy-one, get-one deals or free-flow drinks at B599 during happy hours from 5pm—9pm every day. Ladies’ night on Wednesday offers women two hours of free-flow sparkling wine from 9pm-11pm.
trucks each weekend, spins good tunes, and, most importantly, operates over 40 taps.
DARK BAR Ekkamai 10, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2381 9896, 09 0528 4646 | facebook.com/darkbarbangkok Wed, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am A tiny and, well, dark bar serving beer and booze at cheap prices. It’s popular with hipsters and counter-culturists.
24 OWLS BY SOMETIMES 39/9 Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2391 4509 | 24owls.com | open 24 hours A bijou 24-hour bistro and bar where cocktails are a must. A delight by day and deep into the night, 24 Owls offers a unique round-the-clock dining option.
BAR 23 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 09 6145 9662 | facebook. com/bkkbar23 | 9pm-until very late A dingy dive favourite with bases in Asoke as well as Soi Nana, the artists’ community of Chinatown, where the soundtrack always changes and the crowd never fails to entertain.
BARLEY BISTRO 4F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 08 7033 3919 barleybistro.com | 5pm-late Check out the open-air rooftop, littered with fans, bean bags, and funky barley stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for post-work/pre-club cocktails.
BREW Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 0 2185 2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am See and be seen at this cool Thong Lo vanguard with well-stocked fridges and a healthy list of foreign beer and cider on tap. A beer-lover’s dream.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2253 4648 cheapcharliesresort.com | Mon-Sat 5pm-12am A no-brainer meet-up spot drawing crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists in-the-know who fill up on cheap beers and gin and tonics before heading off to party.
CRAFT Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 3320, 08 1919 5349 craftbangkok.com | 2pm-12am Serving craft beer on draft in all its glory, this outdoor patio-bar plays host to food 114 | A PR I L 2016
An enclave for beer geeks, distinguished by its many dozens of taps and lush garden. A sure bet for anyone in search of a good—and hard-to-find—craft beer.
MOOSE Ekamai Soi 21 | 0 2108 9550 | facebook.com/ moosebangkok | Mon-Sat 6pm-2am A retro-inspired hipster bar decorated with flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads, giving it a living room-esque ambience. A preferred venue for all manner of underground DJ sets and live shows.
OSKAR BISTRO
THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB Sukhumvit 22 | 08 7000 0795, 08 0733 8438 fgc.in.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm A member’s only place where guests are always welcome, screening films in a tiny cinema on the second floor and serving reasonably priced drinks on the first.
FACE BAR 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 0 2713 6048 | facebars. com | 11.30am-1am This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion, a dimly-lit joint that summons deluxe drinkers with cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails all night long.
HOUSE OF BEERS Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 0 2392 3513 | houseofbeers.com | 11am-12am This Belgian-leaning bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapasstyle bar snacks.
JAM! 41 Soi Charoen Rat 1 | 089 889 8059 facebook. com/jamcafebkk | Tue-Sun 6pm-12am A cool, dive-y small bar in a formerly bar-less neighbourhood whose claims to fame are frequent cult movie nights and underground DJ sets.
MIKKELLER 26 Ekkamai Soi 10 Yaek 2 | 0 2381 9891 mikkellerbangkok.com | 5pm-12am
24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 3377 | oskarbistro.com | 4pm-2am Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby, and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. Most people come for pre-club drinks.
SHADES OF RETRO Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | 0 2714 9450 facebook.com/shadesofretrobar | 3pm-1am It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lo hot-spot stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and a grandmother’s attic of antiques.
SING SING THEATER Sukhumvit 45 | 09 7285 6888 | facebook.com/ singsingtheater | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am Tucked between Quince and Casa Pagoda on the sedate Sukhumvit 45, the collaboration of Ashley Sutton and Sanya Souvanna Phouma mashes together the disparate influences of the old Shanghai underworld and the dark and alien future.
SMALLS 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1 | 09 5585 1398 facebook. com/smallsbkk | Wed-Mon 8.30pm-2am Decorated with vintage furniture and art to give it a bohemian vibe, this favourite neighbourhood dive offers a wide selection of beers, wines by the glass, and hard-to-find liquors.
SWAY Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10 | 0 2711 6052 swaybkk.com | daily 6pm-2am Chicken wings, poutine, and ribs star on the menu, and craft beer on draft draw flocks of loyal beer drinkers.
THE ALCHEMIST 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 3549 2055 thealchemistbkk.com | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight This stylish, stripped down drinking hole bangkok101.com
listings | NIGHTLIFE near Cheap Charlie’s draws its own loyal crowd, thanks to an excellent playlist on top of craft beer, assorted martinis, and some of the best mojitos in town.
TUBA 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 0 2711 5500 | design-athome.com | 11am-2am A Bangkok classic, room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch. Some come to snag a goofy tchotchke, but it works best as a bar with few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand.
VIVA AVIV River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 | vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Reminiscent of a hip bar along Singapore’s Clarke Quay, with bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade. Think tropical maritime meets dashes of outright whimsy.
WHISGARS 981 Silom Rd | 0 2661 3220 | whisgars.com 2pm-2am Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of this rapidly expanding branch. Each outlet is a little different, but all cater to the finer things in life.
WTF 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2626 6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am The coolest and most enduring shophouse bar in the city, decked out with old Thai movie posters and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. Marked by great cocktails, live gigs, art exhibitions, and a mix of artsy patrons.
bars with a View ABOVE ELEVEN 33F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack.
CLOUD 47 United Center, Silom Rd | 09 1889 9600 cloud47bangkok.com | daily 11am-1am A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in the bustling CBD that turns into a purple and blue neon fantasy at night. bangkok101.com
LEAPFROG Galleria 10, Sukhumvit Soi 10 | 0 2615 0999 leapfrogbkk.com | 4.30pm-1am An art gallery, rooftop lounge, and restaurant wrapped up in a neat little package on the top of a boutique hotel offering a selection of world cuisine and drinks.
HEAVEN 20F Zen@CentralWorld, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am When golden bar lights up like a metal sun, Zen feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital, serving up balanced cocktails and a beautiful backdrop.
MOON BAR 61F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am An icon among rooftop bars, offering 360-degree views of the urban sprawl in smart surroundings. The perfect spot for honeymooners.
OCTAVE 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back punchy, refreshing cocktails. DJs spin house through the night, neatly setting the vein.
RED SKY 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com 6pm-1am The al fresco turret offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come—when daylight fades, a live jazz band kicks in and the city lights up like a circuit-board.
SKY BAR/DISTIL 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 0 2624 9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, offering panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with new visitors as well as those intent on rediscovering it.
THE SPEAKEASY Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era A PRIL 2016 | 115
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| listings
America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts. Wines are available at solid prices, and cocktails include home-made vodka infusions.
WOOBAR GF, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 0 2344 4131 | wbangkok.com | daily 9am-12am Chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release, or, better yet, a weekend party.
clubs FUNKY VILLA 225/9-10 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2711 6970 facebook.com/funkyvillabkk | 8pm-2am Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to shake off the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs.
LEVELS 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 2308 3246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of the buzzy atmosphere.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd 0 2656 0382 | mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok 10pm-late Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend a desert tent feel.
ONYX RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 08 1645 1166 onyxbangkok.com | 8pm-2am An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. The kicker: a giant video screen looming over the DJ booth.
ROUTE 66 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | 0 2203 0936, 08 1440 9666 | route66club.com | 8pm-2am RCA’s longest surviving super-club, with three zones to explore, each with its own bar, look, and music policy. Crammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais. 116 | A PRIL 2016
SUGAR CLUB 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (next to the Australian Pub) | 08 2308 3246 | sugarclub-bangkok.com 9pm-2am A blend of the global clubbing DNA and an after-hours concept, featuring a Vaudevillian cast of dancers, entertainers, and big-name DJs.
THE CLUB 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 0 2629 1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am This techno castle lends a fairy-tale vibe, with lasers and UV lights harking back to mid-90s trance raves. The music is loud, a full range of four-to-the-floor beats and cranium-rattling techno.
TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2258 3758 | titaniumclub.com | 6pm-1.30am Congenial hostesses clad in ao dai; a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly; over 90 varieties of vodka. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.
pubs FLANN O’BRIEN’S 2194 Charoenkrung 72-74 Rd, Asiatique 0 2108 4005| flann-obriens.com | 3pm-12am A sweeping Irish-themed pub featuring daily drink specials, all-day breakfast menus, and live bands throughout the week.
MULLIGAN’S IRISH BAR 265 Khao San Road | 0 2629 4477 mulligansthailand.com | Always open A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music, ranging from rock to jazz and daylong happy hour deals.
THE BLACK SWAN Soi Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2229 4542 blackswanbangkok.com | 8am-late An amber-lit favourite that relocated to the hustle bustle area of Bangkok, Sukhumvit 19 that offers myriad drink deals and spectacular Sunday roasts as well as cocktail and beer.
THE DUBLINER 595/18-19 Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2204 1841-2 | thedublinerbangkok.com | daily 8am-12.30am
Irish-themed and Irish-owned, this watering hole is preferred among expats for its generous happy hours and nighttime live music.
THE PICKLED LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 7/1, opposite Maxim’s Hotel 0 2651 1114 | thepickledliver.com | 3pm-late Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and many more make this landmark pub, now in its second incarnation, a perennial favourite.
THE PINTSMAN 332 United Center Building, Silom Rd 0 2234 2874 | facebook.com/thepintsman 11am-late A basement bar in Silom serving pints of draft beer and big plates of food. The requisite pool tables and live entertainment get this place hopping on weekends.
THE ROBIN HOOD Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 3390 robinhoodbangkok.com | 10am-12am All the pub essentials are covered: live sports, a chatty atmosphere, wood features, pints of draft beer and cider, and copious drink deals. A great place to start your night (or afternoon).
live music ADHERE THE 13TH 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) | 08 9769 4613 6pm-midnight One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals.
APOTEKA 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom cocktails.
BROWN SUGAR 469 Phra Sumen Road | 08 9499 1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. bangkok101.com
Talad Rod Fai see p124
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LIFE+STYLE sephora goes online
discover again
Following nearly a year of renovations, Siam Discovery is set to reopen its doors. The lifestyle mall kitty-cornered from MBK will feature a significantly more modern exterior, as well as a revamped, innovative interior design. This latest iteration is dubbed “Siam Discovery – The Exploratorium.” Regrettable though its tagline may be, the mall has been made to foster exploration. Let’s hope it does just and isn’t merely a jazzed up moniker for window shopping. Look out for the opening in the next few weeks.
dino stars
Remember the truck that got fined for cruising around town with a T-Rex tied to its bed? It wasn’t just a gimmick. Dinosaur Planet is Bangkok’s very own kid-friendly “Jurassic World,” featuring numerous interactive educational zones and rides, including “Raptor Xtreme,” “Dino Farm,” and a 4-D World. Entry costs B600. Visit dinosaurplanet. com for news and information.
summer sales
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After the flagship shop’s successful first year in Thailand, Sephora has just launched an online store. In doing so the company took over Luxola, a startup e-platform, and rebranded it to Sephora. co.th, where products from a couple of brands, such as Zoeva, are exclusively on offer. It’s only B59 for delivery service (free for purchases over B500) or you can pick up your order from the ATT Skybox inside major BTS stations.
‘Tis the season for summer markets. On April 2 and 3, check out Summer in Color at K Village (Sukhumvit 26), which, on top of offering all sorts of flea-market goods, will also have a photo booth for pets. Later in the month, at CentralPlaza Bangna (1093 Bangna-Trad), Summer Splash will offer a range of fashion, food, and accessories for sale from April 19-27. For information about these two markets and more, visit facebook.com/bkkfleamarket.
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| trend report
On the Runway
#Strong Fans of “The Face Thailand” know what we’re talking about here. What’s hot on the runway this season is attitude. How does a state of mind conveniently translate into fashion, you ask? Through new combinations of complementing colours and a bold feeling that you, the wearer, want to do something different. Some outfits might show some skin (Pitchana’s “Upper East Side” is a good example) while others stay conservative. What defines the style is the spirit of the person wearing it.
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Old Is In Major players in the Thai fashion scene, like Kloset (“Woman on the Moon”), have gone retro for inspiration—some are even presenting a sort of flapper- or tennis club-chic (see ASV’s “The Social Club”). The cuts are often loosefitting and airy, which is pretty great come summertime, but the fits are contrasted by bold and vivid colour schemes and patterns.
Tropical Summer Bright hues and loud patterns capture the vibe of season. Collections like Senada’s “Into the Woods,” with skirts that pop paired with pleated tops, embodies the sort of light-hearted, out-and-about nature of summer in a Pacific Northwest kind of way. And Kloset’s “Woman on the Moon” neatly straddles the line between retro and tropical with wide, boho headbands and fresh, colourful patterns. bangkok101.com
trend report | LIFESTYLE
Street Style—
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Throwback Season here are some parallels between the runway and walkway this summer. But while the high-end brands are all about building the present on the past, the street style bridges the two.
All Denim
Tropical
Your favourite pairs of jeans are always in style, but this season denim jeans—in particular the light-coloured, loose-fitting kind—are all over the place. Boyfriend jeans, Mom jeans, jumpers, and matching denim tops (a.k.a. the “Canadian tuxedo”): it’s all still in style.
For men and women alike, matching tropical-patterned tops and bottoms have made the rounds and returned, still firmly in style. Although to pull off this look you really have to channel your inner bboy (matching all-white sneakers included).
Retro Wear While upscale brands have added retro touches to their dresses, street fashionistas have recaptured the spirit of the 60s and 70s. Bell bottoms and flared jeans are making a comeback, and, more obviously, the gypsy-chic trend continues (even the hair braid).
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Classic Kicks Throwback shoes, like high-top Converse All-Stars, Adidas Originals, and Asics Onitsuka Tigers, especially in singletones (including all white) are the hottest footwear. Women who prefer a little extra lift can pick up these classics as wedges and platforms, too. Topshop, in particular, puts out an eye-catching pair of gold-accented platforms.
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| unique boutique
Pakamian Playful Pa Kao Ma By Pongphop Songsiriarcha
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he Thai take on the sarong, called the pa kao ma, has found many uses throughout the country’s history. It has been a bath towel, a sash, a sort of sling used to carry around a baby, also a hammock for a child, a picnic blanket, a beanie, and much more. For the traditional Thai household, this multipurpose item has perhaps been its most important garment. Unfortunately, the tartan-like textile has steadily faded from popularity in Thai culture, especially in the country’s rapidly modernizing urban areas, where the pa kao ma is often viewed as outdated. However, there are some people who still value this classic cut of fabric, people like Nattawan Komolkittipong and Krittin Taweepoljaroon, the founders of Pakamian. “The pa kao ma is soft, airy, and absorbent, but it has definitely fallen out-of-style,” says Nattawan, whose family has been crafting the garments 122 | A PRIL 2016
for more than 40 years. Having backgrounds in advertising, Nattawan and Krittin have picked up the slack and helped transform the business. The two partners are now using their marketing eye and savvy to revive the functional and sometimes flashy pa kao ma in contemporary society. Beyond technical skill, the two have incorporated the garments into fashionable wear while still keeping its classic style. From a rectangle of fabric, the Pakamian team creates various kinds of pa kao ma, including scarves, which are some of the shop’s best-selling items. All scarves come in vibrant colours and designs, most based on the traditional flannel-like checkered pattern. And so do other popular products, including cushions, pillows, boxer shorts, drop-crotch pants, and shopping bags and totes. Pakamian also offers apparel, dolls, and accessories like notebooks, passport cases, wallets, and even mannequins out of the ubiquitous
pa kao ma, all made using 100 per cent natural cotton. The company also offers a made-to-order service, allowing for creative and individual new uses for the humble cloth. The brand has grown so fast that it has even caught the attention of customers abroad, in particular those in Europe and Asia. Yet despite this sudden growth, the prices are more than affordable, starting from B30 for a coin purse, B120 for a scarf, and B520 for laptop sleeves. To see the entire collection, visit Pakamian’s warehouse at Ramintra (kilometre 8). Or you can stop by Central Embassy, Amarin Plaza, the TCDC shop, and the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, where a selection of the goods are sold. Check out the store’s Facebook page for quick glimpses of the products.
Pakamian Thailand 367, 369 Ramintra Rd | 0 6344 5059 facebook.com/pakamian | Mon-Fri 9.30am-6pm bangkok101.com
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LIFESTYLE
| feature
Talad Rod Fai—Srinakarin and Ratchada Even though it no longer neighbours the tracks, the much beloved Talad Rot Fai, or train market, cleaves to its vagrant title. The sprawling night market on Srinakarin Road, behind Seacon Square, is at once a seemingly transient and permanent place, where food, drinks, second-hand clothing, and some of the city’s rarest vintage and collectible goods go up for sale at ramshackle shops manned by comers and goers—some operate out of brick-walled buildings, others on blankets or booths set up on the ground, making for a unique atmosphere. In 2015, the founders of the train market launched a second venue behind Esplanade. Like its big brother on the outskirts of town, Talad Rod Fai Ratchada deals in affordable and sometimes gourmet food, hip bars built in VW wonder buses and prefab containers, cheap second-hand clothing, and loads of vintage memorabilia. Both markets offer endless forms of stimulation, from concerts to auto rallies to outdoor people-watching perches. Smaller and more compact, the Ratchada market is easier to manage than the main Srinakarin branch, but a trip to either makes for an entertaining evening for couples, friends, or families. TIPS At the train market in Ratchada, don’t miss Burn Baby Burn, a burger joint that also sells locally brewed craft beer. And in Srinakarin, make sure to check out Rod’s Antiques, a treasure-hunter’s dream owned and operated by the market’s cofounder, Pairod Roikaew.
Siam Gypsy Junction Siam Gypsy Junction actually spawned from the Green Vintage Night Market. Last year, the market upped sticks and moved to the outer edge of town, underneath the soon-to-open MRT Bang Son. Expect to find a hodgepodge of vintage and secondhand goods for sale, from ceramic dishes, old movie posters, and worn T-shirts to just far too many bicycles. TIPS The market is open Wednesday to Sunday until 1am. If you’re coming from town, leave early, because until MRT Bang Son opens, it will take quite a trip to get there.
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feature | LIFESTYLE
BANGKOK’S
Best Night Markets Liab Duan Way out on the fringes of the city—which appears to be a shared trait among Bangkok’s best night markets—is Liab Duan, which roughly translates to “the highway market.” This no-frills conglomeration of vendors selling knock-off T-shirts and faux-vintage curios is the perfect place to pick up some mismatching stuff to decorate your bedroom with or sell on your online shop. It’s huge and dusty and consistently entertaining. TIPS The market is located opposite Tawandang Germany Brewery on Ramintra-Ekamai Road. Stroll around the market, get something to eat, and finish with the beer hall’s raucous show.
Green Vintage Night Market An offshoot of the big cheese, Jatujak, the Green Vintage Night Market at JJ Green wins the attention of locals on Friday and Saturday nights. The market is a melting pot of permanently built bars and shops playing host to vendors of second-hand goods, vintage fashion items, and, really, just about everything else that can be found during the day at Jatujak Market. Places like Live House Studio have upped the ante by bringing in big international bands, including New Found Glory and Reel Big Fish. Expect to join young hipster types sharing beer towers or perusing piles of shoes, retro cameras, leather goods, and vinyl albums. TIPS Go to Jatujak in the afternoon and then head to JJ Green when the sun goes down to polish off your Saturday with al fresco drinks and music at Stair By Me.
Ramkhamhaeng Night Market When the sun goes down, the stalls come out in front of Rajamangala Stadium. From T-shirts to toys to cute caged pets, just about everything is sold here (although you should really avoid supporting puppy mills). While wandering through the stalls, fill up on takoyaki, som tam, southern curries, khao mok gai, and more. The market gets crowded, especially on weekends, but there’s ample room in the lawn in front of the man-made pond or by the track. TIPS Take the Saen Saeb canal boat and then walk or flag down a motorbike. Traffic on Ramkhamhaeng can be noseto-tail.
BONUS: Two on-going pop-ups downtown offer a slightly more gentrified night market experience. Artbox, perhaps the pioneer of the container market movement, offers chic fashion accessories and knick-knacks, live music, and Instagrammable gourmet eats. It’s often held at the EM District, although technically this market moves around and has no fixed location (see past events at Makkasan and the Queen Sirikit Convention Centre for example. The Neon Fest container market provides much of the same as Artbox but at the formerly vacant space across the road from Lumpini Park. It stays open every Thursday through Sunday until July. It’s a great place to get a drink and enjoy the open air. bangkok101.com
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| spa review
Anantara Spa Suited to a Tee By Pawika Jansamakao
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t isn’t just technique that factors into a positive spa experience, but also tailored touch, carefully devised temptation for all five senses. At Anantara Spa, ancient wellness rituals from across Asia, complemented by advanced Western techniques and ready-andwaiting staff, do just that.
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centre and an infinity pool with a sun deck. Before stepping into treatment rooms—which are designed in a contemporary Asian style and dominated by amber and dark wood décor—guests consult with experts on standby to determine the most effective treatment to match their personal needs. You might feel like getting a deep tissue massage before
you arrive, but after a brief chat with said expert, you may find a lighter treatment more beneficial to curing the problems that ail you. The signature Stress Release Massage (B1800/60min) offers an hour of deep relaxation, blending methods that pamper the five senses within one package, starting with a foot scrub and milk bath and followed by a core body massage. Masseuses use products exclusively made for Anantara Spa, and, for facials, they use products from Elemis, the UK’s leading skincare brand. For this treatment, Anantara’s own aromatic oil is used, which have strong hints of herbs and citrus; combined with acupressure techniques, the oils enhance the degree of relaxation felt throughout the process. The massage is performed firmly along the body, from head to toe, easing muscles and promoting overall well-being, while instrumental music played in the background helps to provide a calming element throughout the hourlong treatment. Also available in the signature collection is the exquisite Journey of Siam (B2900/135min), a package that includes a floral foot bath, a trip to the steam room, a body scrub, and a Thai herbal compress (the herbal ball, in other words). The Elemis Skin Specific Facials are offered in three packages (B3000++/60min for each package), each with a different result: Elemis Fruit Active Glow, Elemis Exotic Moisture Dew, and Elemis Herbal Lavender Repair. But don’t worry about deciding now. Put your faith in the capable hands at Anantara Spa to help you hone your choices.
Anantara Spa at Anantara Bangkok Sathorn 36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd 0 2210 9000 spa.anantara.com daily 10am-10pm bangkok101.com
products | LIFESTYLE
Sleeping Beautification Wake up Feeling Refreshed from these Rejuvenating Products
Despite the endless array of round-the-clock activities Bangkok has to offer, sometimes sleeping trumps all. While a little shut-eye is itself key to maintaining healthy skin (and minds), some of these top overnight products will help you wake up with an extra bit of glow.
RUDIS OLEUM NIGHT FORMULA FACE SERUM BY SIAM BOTANICALS (24G/ B657) This overnight serum claims to help skin regain its natural balance and elasticity, featuring a blend of cold-pressed raw oils containing Moringa oil, which is four times as rich in collagen as carrot oil, and jojoba. Thai lemongrass, clove, and peppermint lend it cooling, antibacterial, and antiseptic properties, as well, making it an ideal rejuvenating treatment for maturing skin. The flagship store of Siam Botanicals is located in Serindia Gallery at OP Garden on Charoen Krung Road. Visit siambotanicals.com for more information.
RESTORATIVE CREAM BY PANPURI (50ML) Spending too much time out in the sun or inside with the air-con on can leave your skin dry and dehydrated. This rich and restorative cream by Pañpuri encourages skin renewal while deeply hydrating it during the night. The cream is made of 100 per cent plant actives and essential oils and contains Pañpuri’s special jasmine free-radical defence complex to fend off signs of aging and preserve moisture balance. Alfalfa extract, another key ingredient, boosts natural collagen production, helping to reduce fine lines. Crucially, it smells great, too. To get a closer look, go to the Pañpuri store in Gaysorn Plaza or visit panpuri.com
CILANTRO & ORANGE EXTRACT POLLUTANT DEFENDING MASQUE BY KIEHL’S (75 ML/B1250) Bangkok’s air is not particularly clean (surprise). All those air-born particles can leave skin looking dull and
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unhealthy. Fortunately, Kiehl’s protective night masque reduces visible effects of pollution. Formulated with cilantro and orange extract, this masque steels skin against environmental aggressors while cleansing it of the grit and grime that get picked up from daily life in the city. Kiehl’s is available around in Central Chidlom, Siam Center, or The EMQuartier. To read more about the products, check out kiehls.co.th.
QUIET NIGHT DREAMY PILLOW & BODY MIST BY BODY SHOP The so-called Dreamy Pillow & Body Mist was designed to improve sleep. Spray some of the quick-drying mist onto your pillow or sheets before bedtime; a special encapsulation technology ensures that bursts of fragrance are released throughout the night as your body shifts positions. Meanwhile, jujube and fair-trade chamomile combine promote restful sleep. Body Shop can be found in almost every shopping mall in Bangkok, or log on to thebodyshop.co.th to peruse the shop’s many items.
ORIGINS GINZING REFRESHING EYE CREAM BY ORIGINS (15ML/B1550) The morning-after eye cream by natural cosmetic brand Origins instantly reduces dark circles and unsightly bags and puffiness, perfect for early mornings after long nights. Additionally, its complex of caffeine from coffee beans, panax ginseng, magnolia extract, and natural optic brighteners wake up sleepy faces while adding a certain level of brightness to tired eyes. Check out the Origins shops at the Central Department Store in Silom Complex or at Siam Paragon. Check out this eye cream and more at origins.co.th.
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aeng mai? When you wake up feeling like you’ve been run over by a lorry, with an empty bottle insidiously parked at your bedside, your eyes ferociously red, and your head locked in some kind of invisible vice, hangover remedies might be the first thought that comes to mind. In Thailand, locals swear by two particular cures—well, besides sleeping it off or drinking lots of coffee. The sweat-inducing pad kee mao, which roughly translates as drunken noodles, is considered a solid tonic for the hangover. The dish consists of wide rice noodles filled out with seafood, chicken, or pork and speckled with a frightening number of chillies. The
spiciness of the dish is said to make you sweat out the toxins. That same adage explains why many go for spicy noodle soups the day after drinking. Sweat out the evil, as it were. Still others prefer jok, the humble rice porridge, which locals often eat late at night as a way to fill up and fend off a hangover the next day (preventative measures, in other words). The second weapon in the battle against the dreaded hangover is the refreshing water of a young
coconut. You doubtless know to drink lots of water to rehydrate, but reach instead for coconut water: it’s electrolyte-rich, high in potassium, and filled with antioxidants, ascorbic acids, magnesium, and cytokinins, which promote plant cell division and growth. Plus it’s all-natural, making it one of the best ways to get back on your feet following a long night out.
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