The heart of the capital. The height of luxury.
( 2 minute walk )
PUBLISHER’S LETTER What a difference a decade makes! One year in Bangkok seems to pack in a century’s worth of happenings, attractions, accumulations – a sensory and spiritual overload. Like the city itself, we’ve barely had time to pause and take stock, or celebrate as we did at the first and only 101 party at our launching in 2005. Since then, this magazine, like Thailand, has weathered political strife, floods, the transformation of large chunks of urban space, a thousand passing trends and artistic movements. The Bangkok we chose to make our home, and chronicle, in those quaint days has become not just wealthier, glitzier, cooler, and more jam-packed at every turn, but likewise more sophisticated, self-aware, international yet acutely aware of its strengths. In the rush to put out over 120 issues keeping pace with all the events and flavors and social significance worth noting, Bangkok 101 has nearly doubled in size from the skimpy 76 pages that first went to print. Now the pages are slicker, the design more clean-edged, the stories going more in-depth to bring to light the often unseen aspects of this showy city. Through it all, what hasn’t changed is our commitment to covering Bangkok’s exceptional array of culinary and artistic treasures, its long-standing traditions and heritage, with genuine passion and quality writing. Turn to Food & Drink, for instance, where our selection of the top tables of 2015 reflect just how many great chefs and cuisines have now joined us in migrating here. When it comes to Nightlife, follow the latest projects from such pathbreaking creative forces as Ash Sutton and Sanya Souvanna Phouma. And in City Pulse, check out how best to participate in the rolling party that we call the holidays in the City of Angels. As you savor this this very special Tenth Anniversary issue, we hope you join us in ringing in a New Year and recalling old times by flipping through the pages. A decade on, we may be living more than ever in a digital age, but I believe more than ever that the printed word and image are still as thrilling, and essential, as ever. So join us as Bangkok 101 continues to endeavor to do what it does best – celebrate Bangkok.
WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
DECEMBER 2015 | 5
Cooking with Champagne
6 – 20 December 2015 December is a month of celebrations and to get your festive mood started, the Vertigo culinary team has designed a special set menu featuring champagne as the natural cooking accompaniment, adding a touch of originality and sophistication to the dishes.
Banyan Tree Bangkok South Sathon Road, Sathon, Bangkok 10120 Thailand Tel: +66 2 679 120 Fax: +66 2 679 1199 Email: bangkok@banyantree.com
BANYANTREE.COM
publisher
Mason Florence
CONTRIBUTORS
editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Craig Sauers food editor
John Krich associate editor
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
GABY DOMAN is a Bangkokbased writer with a serious social media habit. When she’s not at the gym, she can be found undoing all her good work in a bakery or a bar. A brownie or Dirty Martini (respectively), if you’re buying.
Joe Cummings editorial coordinator
Pongphop Songsiriarcha art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Rachel Kwok, Adam O’Keefe, Jim Algie, Marco Ferrarese, Nicola Jones-Crossley, Matt Wilde, Oliver Benjamin contributing photographers
Willem Deenik, Megan Ferrera, Greg Powell, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Niran Choonhachat, Supphanat Kusolphithak, Anupong Hotawaisaya general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi A Brit with three decades of Bangkok living, KEITH MUNDY has been a freelance travel writer and photographer for 26 years. Trained in languages and literature (English, French, Spanish), he has been a traveller since the age of 14, visited 96 countries so far and been kicked out of a couple. His work has appeared in travel and lifestyle magazines worldwide, including the inflight magazines of several major airlines, and he is the author of guidebooks to Thailand and Mexico, plus Thai corporate and cultural histories.
AVAILABLE AT:
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Paris native LUC CITRINOT has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.
director sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon account executive
Orawan Ratanapratum circulation
Phichet Reangchit published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
SEP T EM BER 2014 | 7
CONTENTS 120
76 40
26
CITY PULSE
TRAVEL
106 feature: sofitel so
10 metro beat
52 upcountry now
festive
16 my bangkok:
56 upcountry escape:
108 in the kitchen: paolo
suharit siamwalla
mae rim
vitaletti
18 hot plates: upstairs
64 over the border:
109 eat like nym
at mikkeller
bhutan
110 food for thought:
20 feature: bangkok
ampersand
then & now
ART & CULTURE
26 best of bkk:
70 exhibitions
NIGHTLIFE
celebrate like a local
74 interview: maitree
118 nightlife news
32 out & about:
siriboon
120 review: sing sing
mall design
76 feature: elephant
theatre
38 on the block:
parade
122 imbibe: chivas
bang rak
78 cheat notes: boy
40 making merit:
with a bamboo heart
SHOPPING
textiles 4 charity
80 photo feature: surat
132 new collection:
56
osathanugrah
patinya
104
42 tom’s two satang
FOOD & DRINK
shopping
134 feature: online
SNAPSHOTS 44 joe’s bangkok
88 food & drink news
138 unique boutique:
46 bizarre thailand
90 meal deals
the remaker
48 very thai
91 food editor’s letter
50 heritage: sanam
92 tastes of 2015
WELLNESS
chandra palace
94 restaurant reviews:
140 balanze by
quince, paste, the
hydrohealth
dining room, seed, j’aime, osha, antonio’s,
SIGNING OFF
giorgio’s
144 eat-drink-pink
ON THE COVER Happy Anniversary 10 Years & Counting By Thanakrit Skulchartchai
8 | DECEMBER 2015
bangkok101.com
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metro beat
ELECTRONIC
808 Festival
ROCK, POP, & INDIE Experimental sounds from Japan and Thailand collide at HOF Art Residency (W District, Sukhumvit 71) on December 6 for the return of Maziru Music. Okinawan shamisen-plucking crooner Kanako Hariuchu, string-andbongo band Based on Kyoto, and Sriracha-based Molam funk group Siang Hong Lion perform on the rooftop, while Gaolao and Friends take stage on the ground floor. Tickets are B400 in advance and B500 at the door. The music gets going at 6pm. For updated information, including additions to the lineup, contact the organizers via w-district.com.
808 Festival is back. The show that brought main-stage acts Nicky Romero, Richie Hawtin, and Steve Aoki to BITEC Bang Na in the past two years returns to its same stomping grounds on December 9, but with a hot new lineup headlined by one of the greatest DJs of all time, Armin Van Buuren, as well as electronic impresarios Axwell Λ V Ingrosso, Oliver Heldens, Jamie Jones, and Claude Von Stroke. Early-bird tickets are B2500. An exciting bonus, the 808 organizers are offering special combo ticket packages that offer entry to 808 as well as Output Festival at BITEC on December 29, which iconic David Guetta will headline (B4600 for combo tickets). For the latest news, check 808festival.com.
COMEDY
Stand-Up
Battles Three top indie acts unite at Alterverse at JJ Green (Kamphaeng Phet 2) on December 9. From the US comes Battles, the veteran math-rock band with a reputation for energetic live sets staked on live-looping and catchy, unusually timed beats. Joining Battles are DIY group Bottlesmoker from Indonesia and Thailand’s own emerging electro-pop outfit DCNXTR. This just might be one of the most fun concerts to attend all year. Tickets are B1000 in advance and B1500 at the door, but they’re limited, so it’s better to act fast. Go to facebook.com/ alterversebkk for the latest news. 10 | DECEMBER 2015
Bangkok Hilarious and Signal Flair present Thailand’s very first annual English-language comedy competition, called Stand-Up, held on December 11 and 12 at Mojo’s Live Music Pub (Sukhumvit 33). On the first night, ten contestants will deliver six-minute sets. The top five, as voted by the audience and a three-person panel, will move on to the second round on December 12; the final three will deliver ten-minute sets to determine the most hilarious and/or depraved. Winners get some nice swag, with the top prize claiming 500 US dollars as well as a vacation on Phuket and a tour of Thailand with another professional comic. Tickets for each night are B700 at the door; tickets covering two nights cost B1200. For the latest information, visit facebook.com/bangkokhilarious. bangkok101.com
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SPORTS
Bike for Dad Following the overwhelming popularity of the Bike for Mom event, Thai cycling enthusiasts—and those who simply wish to pay respect to HM the King Bhumibol Adulyadej—will pedal around Bangkok—and, in fact, the world—at Bike for Dad on December 11. The 29-kilometre route will travel past important religious and cultural sites in Bangkok, weaving through the old city to the Ratchaprasong area. The ride starts at 3pm, led by HRH Vajiralongkorn. Concurrent rides are scheduled across the world between 9am and midnight, depending on location. For more details, visit bikefordad2015.com. One of the country’s biggest races, the Thailand International Half Marathon, returns to the Rama 8 Bridge and the elevated highway that cuts through Pinklao on December 13. With some serious cash prizes at stake, expect a lot of top competition and fast times, making this a good choice for those looking to set a new personal best time. But fear not fun-runners: whether you’re taking part in the 5k, 10.5k, or half marathon, you’ll have clear roads during the race and lots of food and festivities to soak up after it’s finished. For entry fees and starting times, go to thailandhalfmarathon.com.
OUT & ABOUT From December 4-13, soak up the sights along the river while you savour some of the city’s top dishes at River on a Plate. Eight riverside hotels team up once again for this fine dining festival. For ten days, participating restaurants at the hotels are offering special menus paired with a complimentary bottle of red or white wine. That’s followed by a decadent dessert and a cup of coffee. The event also features wine and cheese tastings, talks and demonstrations from celebrity chefs, book signings, and master classes in Thai cooking. The Farmer’s Market at Anantara Riverside Bangkok will be held in conjunction with the event on December 5 and 6, offering farm-fresh products and high-quality cooking gear for sale. Prices range from B1888 to B4888 for a dinner for two. Visit bangkokriverexperience.com for more information and online reservations. bangkok101.com
Anantara Riverside Bangkok DECEMBER 2015 | 11
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FOOD & DRINK
Chef Tam Kwok Fung The latest in Sanpellegrino’s “Fine Dining Lovers” guest chef series brings Chef Tam Kwok Fung of two Michelin-starred Jade Dragon from Macau’s City of Dreams to Bangkok, where he will prepare a lavish six-course dinner on December 2 and 3. Held at Mei Jiang at The Peninsula Bangkok, the dinners will feature the chef’s signature Cantonese cuts, all crafted with organic and farm-fresh ingredients. The culinary superstar will team up with Mei Jiang’s own Chef Jackie Ho, the style of the two perfectly in sync—a focus on the quality of ingredients, as well as personalized cooking techniques accumulated from years of experience, driving their Cantonese-style cuisine. The food will be paired with specialty tea and wine, as well as premium mineral water Acqua Panna. The dinners cost 6888++ and start at 7pm each night. To make a reservation, call 0 2020 2888 or email diningpbk@peninsula.com.
MARKETS & FAIRS One of the city’s favourite annual outdoor extravaganza returns from December 4-6. And, this year, the Bangkok Street Show promises to be more exciting than ever, with a cavalcade of outdoor performances, from the bizarre to the side-splitting, representing cultures from across the world. Held at Lumpini Park, the festival incorporates all manner of street acts: miming, juggling, acrobatics, balloon modelling, body contortionism, fire eating, sword swallowing, puppetry, and more. On Father’s Day, there will be a special candlelight ceremony in honour of HM the King’s 88th birthday. Admission is free for everyone. For more information, visit bangkokstreetshow.com. Area Five Bangkok, in its fourth edition, has once again added a different dynamic to Bangkok’s outdoor market scene. Apart from shopping—separated into food, fashion, crafts, and design, featuring the work of Thai local artisans—the market includes live shows from established acts Desktop Error, The Jukks, Brown Flying, Somkiat, Aey The Voice, and Slot Machine. But the stage is not just reserved for the famous. Aspiring musicians of all ages are invited to submit demo tapes; a handful will be selected to play at Area Five. There will also be street shows, exhibitions, and workshops, all held on the five-rai of space at Airport Rail Link Makkasan on December 4-6 and December 11-13. Admission costs B100. For more information, log on to areafivebkk.com. 12 | DECEMBER 2015
Bangkok Street Show Somart Social Market gets in the spirit of the holiday shopping season with a four-day bonanza of music, deals, and Instagram-inviting photo-ops called GIF (Greatest Instaground Festival). Performances by artists from The Voice Thailand highlight the festival, which also adds a massive LED screen to the outdoor market equation, airing live shots of celebrities and shoppers. Stop by Parc Paragon (between Siam Center and Siam Paragon) from December 10-13 to enjoy the live mini-concerts and holiday deals in the pleasant weather. Visit somartmarket. com for more details. bangkok101.com
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metro beat
HOLIDAY EVENTS Throughout December, Bangkok will be brighter than ever with Thailand’s first international festival of light, sound, and visual arts, Bangkok Illumination, held at The Em District and Benjasiri Park. Thai and foreign artists, as well as young students, will lend their artwork to beef up the spectacle. Celebrate Christmas with your young ones at Bumrungrad’s Christmas Party on December 12 at the Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit. The party features clowns, gifts from Santa, baby products for sale, and more. Entry is free for Bumrungrad members and B200 per family for non-members. On December 22, from 2pm until 6pm, bring your kids to the British Club Bangkok, where the city’s biggest bouncy castle, water slides, arts, crafts, games, and a visit from Santa Claus are in store. Admission is B50 for kids under 2, B500 for kids aged 2-12, and B150 for adults. The Westin Grande Sukhumvit is offering Christmas baking classes for kids: chocolate Santas on December 12 and gingerbread houses on December 19. Priced at B1890 each, the classes come with Christmas goodie bags and lunch at Seasonal Tastes, as well as certificates of achievement.
FESTIVE FARE On Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, stoke the holiday spirit at Public at Avani Atrium. On Christmas Eve, the buffet dinner, from 6.30pm-10.30pm, serves a range of classic dishes, including roasted duck, while a DJ provides live entertainment (B1190++). The next afternoon, from noon-2.30pm, the Christmas buffet offers seafood, ribeye steak, grilled lamb chops, and more (B1190++). The Christmas Night Buffet Dinner at Café@2 at Conrad Bangkok on December 25 features a range of fresh seafood for B3950++—and it includes free flow wine and spirits and a gift for every guest. On Christmas Eve, all are invited to indulge in a special buffet dinner at Feast, at Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, featuring old-time favourites and more for B2700. There will also be a Christmas brunch (B3200) and dinner (B1800), the spirits raised by traditional Christmas carols. On New Year’s Eve, enjoy a gala dinner at The Riverside Terrace and Giorgio’s Terrace for B9500. Celebrate Christmas and New Year at Anantara Riverside Bangkok. On Christmas Eve, Riverside Terrace has a gala buffet at B3500, while Manohra Cruises presents a Moonlight Cruise Thai Fusion set menu at B5500. Christmas Day features the Family Carnival Brunch for B3900 at Trader’s Vic and Benihana. On New Year’s Eve, enjoy “A Night in Chicago” at Riverside Terrace for B8500. On the same night, Brio presents an Italian wine dinner, with four delectable courses, at B3900. 14 | DECEM BER 2015
On New Year’s Eve at Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok, indulge in the international buffet at The Glass House for B2200, including free-flow soft drinks, or B2800, including free-flow wine and beer. There will also be an exclusive and enticing six-course Italian dinner (B4600) at Luce. Celebrate Christmas with friends and family at Le Meridien Bangkok with Grand Atelier’s Wine Journey Brunch from noon-3pm at B1995, and then enjoy dinner, including a traditional carving station, festive sweet treats, and a free flow of 20 different wines at Latest for B2250. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok celebrates Christmas and New Year across various venues. At Le Normandie, there’s the “haute cuisine” Christmas lunch for B3500. The New Year’s Eve celebration starts at 7.30pm in the Authors’ Lounge. In addition to signature cocktails, a lavish gala dinner includes a Thai buffet banquet and the customary countdown to 2016 with more than 15 minutes of spectacular fireworks over the iconic Chao Phraya River. Dine and dance at Vista Bar Terrace at Pathumwan Princess Hotel with a New Year’s Eve gala dinner, featuring a sumptuous buffet priced at B5400 for adults and B2700 for children younger than 12. The Kitchen Table at the W Bangkok Hotel celebrates with its Stop The Clock Xmas Eve Dinner, priced at B2900 (B4250 with a glass of sparkling wine and free flow house wine) and its Stop The Clock Xmas Brunch, priced at B3499, or B3999 with cocktails, wine, beer, and bubbles. On Christmas, Brasserie Europa at Siam Kempinski Hotel features an international buffet feast, priced at B3150++, or B4250++ with free flow booze. On New Year’s Eve, count down at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin with a special 11-course set menu of modern Thai-inspired cuisine, selected by Michelinstarred Chef Henrik Yde-Anderson and priced at B5200++, including a glass of champagne. Enjoy a Thai-style Christmas Eve at Salathip at Shangri-La Hotel with a set menu of Thai fare for B3900. Add sparkle to your Christmas Day with brunch at NEXT2 Café for B4000. Italian Chef Luca Casini of Volti Ristorante & Bar offers a festive set menu for New Year’s Eve at B11000, or B13000 for terrace buffet, a great perch to take in the magnificent fireworks. Celebrate Christmas Eve at Spasso at Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok with a brunch buffet (B850++) and an Italian Christmas Set Dinner (B3000++). Enjoy New Year’s Eve at Tables Grill, with a wide selection of sustainable seafood and premium meats. Dinner with a glass of Moët and Chandon is priced at B5500++ per adult and B2750++ per child. Da Vinci at The Rembrandt Hotel offers a New Year’s Eve set menu full of fresh seafood, local and imported meat, and a selection of delicious desserts, priced at B1995. The same price applies for Rang Mahal’s Indian Christmas dinner buffet on the same night. bangkok101.com
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my bangkok
Suharit
SIAMWALLA Suharit Siamwalla, CEO of DHA Siamwalla, Thailand’s longest running stationery producer, perhaps best-known for his other roles as outspoken aspiring politician, influencer, and “Electronic Wizard” (DJ), is a man of many talents. Not to mention wide-reaching popularity with Thai youth. The self-proclaimed “world’s oldest teenager” talks about his life and the city he loves with Bangkok 101. Singer, musician, DJ, politician, CEO. Do you have one role you enjoy most? I enjoy every single thing I do. Each of my roles is interesting in its own right. There are still many things I’ve never tried, though. For instance, I would like to be Prime Minister of Thailand if I have the chance. How do you balance life and work? How do you encourage yourself to stay positive and productive when times are tough? Actually, I’m not trying to balance anything. I just go with the flow. I feel like the more we try to manage, the more we tend not to do things well. I put 100 per cent of my effort into everything I do. Some days, I’ll spend most of the time working, but then I’ll dedicate another day to my music. It’s very flexible. The number of your followers keeps increasing. What do they like most about you? And how does it feel to be admired by a large number of the younger generations? I feel like my personality is the key. I try to be very straightforward and honest about what I think. I stick to that gun. I express exactly what’s on my mind with genuine words that the young 16 | DECEM BER 2015
connect with and, at the same time, I challenge their thoughts. In other words, I speak their language. Why did you decide to run for Bangkok governor? Do you have any plans to run for office again? In Bangkok, many people complain about what they want. I think it’s time to stop complaining. Come out and do what you believe is good for the city where your family is going to grow up. That’s why I decided to run for office. Whether I would return for another election depends on how people view candidates who are not attached to political parties. I would be more than happy to give it another try if they believe that independent candidates can be as strong as those from wellknown parties. How has your family influenced your worldview? My family is the backbone of everything. I have no worries when I go to work, and I feel relaxed at home after work. When you are happy with your family, you can start getting creative with things. Are environmental issues the most urgent we face today? In certain areas in Bangkok, I think environmental issues are critical.
How we manage garbage is a prime concern right now. We need to carefully decide what to do about it before matters get worse. What do you like most about living in Bangkok? Bangkok has certain charms that liven up the city. It’s a kind of beautiful mess, you could say. If I were governor, I would never try to put everything in order, [but rather] improve for later stages. How do you see the city progressing in 2016? What trends or changes will shape the future? I don’t expect the city to become a Utopia in a short period of time, but, honestly, I do believe that Bangkok can do better than this. What we really need is the right leader to jump-start improvement. In 2016, I think it reaches the point where people will finally need [to see] a lot of change in the way they are empowered to manage things. I don’t see a major, life-changing trend happening in 2016, but people really do need an improvement in their quality of life, especially in terms of mass transportation. That is the ultimate issue that all Bangkok residents need to solve. bangkok101.com
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hot plates
Upstairs at Mikkeller By Craig Sauers
I
t’s a clear and rather crisp November night in Bangkok, the kind of watershed weather that indicates the end of the city’s rainy season hibernation, effecting a mass migration to the river, rooftops, and alfresco enclaves like Mikkeller. In fact, to the garden at Mikkeller is precisely where many are headed. But I’m not. Instead of joining the T-shirt- and short-clad crowds plunked down on the craft beer mecca’s many beanbags, or even grabbing a seat on the patio, I’m going upstairs. Forget cool temperatures outside. The metaphorical heat gets turned up on the second floor of this airy house, where Chef Dan Bark, former sous chef of Chicago’s multiple-Michelinstarred Grace, has launched his first pet project, Upstairs at Mikkeller. And the heat is good. Upstairs is intimate: six small tables, platinum gray walls decorated with Keith Shore’s nimble Mikkeller artwork, and a very open kitchen in the corner of the room, where Chef Bark and his sous chef put the finishing touches on dishes before they land on white linen. On Friday and Saturday nights only, Upstairs offers 10 courses of Progressive American cuisine, paired impeccably with six exclusive Mikkeller beers on tap (plus a welcome beer, because, why not?) at B4900. The service is personal, the seating limited, the progression between pairings smooth and natural. I’m here on a Saturday. In tight, minimal typeface the menu promises Roe, Roots, Crab, Potato Leek, Salmon, Duck, Wagyu Beef, Corn, and Beer Geek, each explained by a maximum of three ingredients (“WAGYU BEEF—broccoli, sesame, lime”) and underscored by a specific beer (Mikkeller: Orange Yuzu Glad I Said Porter). No matter descriptions. Roe, an amuse bouche of celery root purée topped with ikura, lemon gel, and chives—the starter paired with Mikkeller’s popular wheat beer, whose hints of fruit and spice joust wonderfully with the earthy purée—packs so much flavour and texture into such a small space as to straightaway suggest this will not be any ordinary dinner. And it isn’t. All plates invite interaction. Crab—Alaskan king crab with sweet-and-sour kalamansi gel, coconut strings, and hydrated basil seeds—requires the aid of wait staff, such as the congenial Ryan, who pours a cucumber-basil broth over the bowl, details how to best enjoy its elements (“get messy, mix it all together”), and finally puts in plain English the tasting notes of the Whenever pilsner with which it’s paired. The Duck involves consommé infused with Thai herbs and spices with the aid of a vacuum coffee maker. Then there are its ingredients: duck prosciutto, amaranth, and pearls of cranberry gel. And, perhaps most interestingly, its partner is the lip-puckering Spontanframboos, a lambic that would be hard to sip unaccompanied yet lifts the gamey fowl to great heights. Even desserts, one a trio of corn and the other a ginger tube stuffed with slushee’d Beer Geek and artfully surrounded by candied almonds, greens, and pineapple cream, gain depth of flavour from their boozy stout partner. Pop-up pairings aside, before Upstairs, no permanent fixture in Bangkok had committed to craft beer as an integral component of dining. Branching out beyond wine pairings is just cause for celebration. But being there isn’t enough, and Chef Bark seems to know this. So he strives for more, coolly manning his drawing room kitchen upstairs, communicating with staff behind the scenes via microphone, appearing to constantly be researching ways to link cutting-edge cuisine with cutting-edge beers. This marks the dawning of an exciting new dining experience in Bangkok.
UPSTAIRS AT MIKKELLER 26 Ekamai Soi 10, Yaek 2 | 0 2381 9891 facebook.com/upstairsatmikkellerbkk | Fri-Sat 6.30pm-10.30pm
18 | DECEMBER 2015
bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 19
During this decade of growth and transition, the skytrain has become an icon of Bangkok 20 | DECEMBER 2015
bangkok101.com
feature
CITY PU LSE
10 Years in Our City of Angels
I
t’s hard to believe 10 years have passed since Bangkok 101 set up shop in an old teakwood home on Soi Langsuan. To say things have changed since then would be the understatement of the decade—and we’re not talking about the magazine. In December 2005, Siam Paragon was just about to open. The next year saw international flights start to shift to the sprawling Suvarnabhumi Airport. With every passing year, new steel stretched for the sun, towering giants carving their place in the skyline. What else has happened in the past decade? HM the King Bhumibol Adulyadej welcomed foreign monarchs to a grand ceremony in Bangkok honouring his 60 years (soon to be 70) on the throne, one of the only times this century that nearly all the world’s kings and queens gathered in one place. In parliamentary affairs, a Prime Minister was exiled, his sister took power, and upheaval became the standard, not the exception. There were protests, coups,
The old B3 green bus chugs along a busy road bangkok101.com
and random acts of violence. The one constant during this period of political manoeuvring was the city’s unparalleled sense of patience. Or, perhaps, its profound affinity for food. Fine dining and street food have evolved, even merging in recent years. Pop-up and pairing dinners took the city by storm. So did visiting chefs. One Bangkok restaurant (Gaggan, in case you hadn’t heard) was honoured as Asia’s best. The word “Michelin” repeatedly emerged in local gossip. Though certain street food meccas—Soi 38, Yaowarat, and the On Nut night market—came under threat of closure, or their vendors were forced off the street, the chaotic vitality of congested sidewalks, smoking woks, and honest Thai food never faded. We’ve seen artists, designers, and authors go abroad, spreading Thai culture like a dandelion seed head blowing in the wind. Art and architecture have changed domestically, too. Luminaries like Duangrit Bunnag and
Years before Digital Gateway and Siam Square One DECEMBER 2015 | 21
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feature
Without the much-photographed skywalk and BTS, it’s hard to recognize the Sathorn intersection
Phrom Pong, pre-EMQuartier
The grand opening of Siam Paragon in 2005 Manit Sriwanichpoom helped set a steady foundation for young and emerging artists and designers. Now, from Sukhumvit to the sois of Chinatown and Charoen Krung, for example, galleries feature and support all kinds of media—video, installation, dance: you name it. Malls opened, malls closed. The popular Khlong Tom, Suan Lum, and Rot Fai markets shuttered, in some cases briefly (Talad Rot Fai now occupies two vast spaces, one off Srinakarin and the other behind Esplanade on Ratchadaphisek Road). Technological advancements, in particular phones with Wi-Fi and high-pixel-count cameras, expedited the transmission of selfies at popular public events to friends and followers, all with thumbs hovering anxiously over Like buttons. It’s a wired world now. Transportation has developed, albeit at a decidedly Thai pace: languid, casually. The BTS and MRT currently 22 | DECEMBER 2015
Don Mueang on the eve of the move to Suvarnabhumi service Bangkok from the border of Samut Prakarn to within earshot of the southern bus terminal in Thonburi. Next year, both will open lines linking the suburbs with the city centre, lines that seemingly have been in the works for the last 10 years. Public bikes have helped curb greenhouse gas emissions. People have become health-conscious like never before, filling up running events within hours and forming a veritable Tour de Thailand of amateur cycling nationwide. Although Bangkok isn’t quite yet on the green par with Singapore, these changes represent a start. It’s been an amazing 10 years for Bangkok 101, and even more so for the city that makes this magazine run. In celebration of the last decade, we asked some of our close friends, names our readers undoubtedly recognize, to share a reflection or two on Bangkok—their Bangkok. bangkok101.com
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Bangkok by Tom Vitayakul In the last 10 years Bangkok has been much more than my hometown—it’s my comfort zone. I was born, bred, fed, and schooled in the city. After being overseas for a long time, this is where I’ve re-established my roots. At the moment, I don’t think I want to live anywhere else. Family, friends, and familiar faces and places are all around. Bangkok may not best represent Thailand, but it’s the crux of what has made the country the way it has recently been, warts and all. For over three years of writing about anything Thai in Tom’s Two Satang, I have learned to love my city, my country, and her people more and more. There’s no place like Bangkok, as there’s no place like home.
Jim Algie, author of Bizarre Thailand and The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand The biggest cosmetic change in Bangkok is all the new malls and condos and Western brands and fast-food franchises, along with a new generation of Thai consumers to support them. But for all that, certain neighbourhoods like Saphan Kwai, and many parts of Thonburi and Chinatown, are very much the same as they were 10 or even 20 years ago. My favourite experiences here stem from the privilege we enjoy as farang journalists to meet all sorts of fascinating people, from Thai supermodels and actresses to the former executioner from Bang Kwang Central Prison, as well as forensic doctors, top cops, and the chief gunnery officer on a Royal Thai Navy patrol boat who gave me an hour-long tour of the entire ship, including the bridge and the main weapons room. Where else in the world would you get that kind of access?
Korakot “Nym” Kunlopruksa, storyteller and street food expert More than 100 places on the streets of Bangkok have been tasted and touched by readers of Eat Like Nym. I think the pages of Bangkok 101 have created a new dynamic: knowledge and entertainment with sincerity. Bangkok—keep on working hard, playing hard, and sharing more of what you love!
Philip Cornwel-Smith, author of Very Thai Thais hadn’t considered pop as proper culture—only rarefied tradition officially counted—but in a sudden shift gained credibility as Thai creatives, followed by venues and businesses, public taste, and eventually ministries took notice. Pop artefacts finally got museum displays, from Museum Siam to the BACC to the TCDC. Now popular culture is part of the city’s tourism promotion, from street food and temple fairs to motorcycle taxis. After all, popular culture is what tourists—and Bangkokians— experience most of the time. Writers yearn to have impact, but beyond the hoped-for readership and reviews, Very Thai veered out of my control. Timing turned it into the at-hand guide to that zeitgeist wave. Very Thai became a source book for advertising, designers, artists, fashion stylists, and event organisers. Social media fans coined #verythai hashtags for Bangkok street photography. The book even inspired a mime show, while the cover “acted” on stage as a shadow puppet! Two decades ago I adopted Bangkok as my city, so if I may humblebrag, I’m grateful that the city adopted Very Thai.
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An overnight group prayer session is just one way to ring in 2016 with true Thai spirit 26 | DECEMBER 2015
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best of bkk
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10 WAYS
to Celebrate the Holiday Season like a Local BY PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA & PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
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t’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas. Minus the snow, that is. There aren’t any burly Santas with kids on their laps asking for gifts, either. That whole spiritual element is mostly missing, too. Come to think of it, Christmas, New Year’s, and all the other holidays that enrich cultures around the world in December take different shapes in Thailand. But that doesn’t mean the holidays have any less joy. The people of Thailand celebrate winter holidays in their own unique and beautiful way. “We are festive people,” says Apple, an office worker in Sathorn, with a merry, vaguely Santa-like laugh. Truer words have never been spoken. From golden foil emblazoned with “Happy New Year” wishes to Christmas trees that stay up until February to Easter bunnies who make rare but occasional December appearances, seemingly fitting yet incongruous imagery—signs that the holidays have arrived, Thai-style— speckle the city like snowflakes. This month, soak up the spirit and celebrate like locals do.
continue, as those gathered give food to monks, a tradition called tak bat.
Lead a Lucky Draw ‘Tis the season of sharing. Or is it the season of giving and receiving? At schools, especially Catholic ones, kids bring wrapped presents to school on Christmas Eve. They first place their gifts in one of a few boxes labelled by number, and then each student draws a piece of paper with a number on it from a jar. Once that’s done, one by one, students randomly pick goodies from the box that corresponds to the number they drew. What they receive is a total surprise—toy soldiers, stationery, bath soap. It’s a tradition not unlike the infamous white elephant exchange, but without the intended burden attached, and it’s not just for schoolchildren—companies around the city organize lucky draws in the spirit of the season.
Pray All Night It may be a Western tradition, but Thai people also celebrate New Year’s Eve on December 31—actually, people here celebrate multiple new years: Chinese New Year, Songkran, Diwali—just in different ways. For older generations, the Western New Year marks an occasion to rekindle Buddhist rituals. At Sanam Luang, as well as major temples around the country, Buddhists embark on a full night of prayer. Monks lead chants throughout the night, believing it to be an auspicious start to the year ahead. When the new dawn rises, the good deeds bangkok101.com
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Heap a Hamper
Go Hotel Hopping
Giving hampers to bosses, grandparents, or respected elders of any kind on special occasions has been a Thai tradition for ages. Hampers here, however, are a little different from the types you may know. The version most commonly bought in Thailand is called a “health hamper.” It might contain essence of chicken, Ovaltine, condensed milk, or diffuser oil. Who knows? They’re all a little different. Some department stores arrange hampers with products representing the four elements, for luck and longevity. OTOP products and house appliances appear in the occasional hamper, too. Yet lots of people prefer to build their own, enjoying the freedom to choose whatever they want while ensuring the products have not eclipsed their expiration dates. Just don’t put alcohol in your hamper—it’s taboo.
Sparkling Christmas trees beautify nearly every major hotel. While it may not replicate turning on the lights at home, tree lighting ceremonies nevertheless engender a sense of community. From hotel to hotel, snacks and desserts accompany carols sung by local choirs. On December 3, in the presence of HRH Princess Soamsawali, Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel welcomes one and all to its Gala Christmas Tree Lighting ceremony in the lobby. At other luxury hotels, such as The Peninsula, St. Regis, and Sofitel So, the lights have gone on in November, but you can still visit the lobbies to view the finished products.
Peruse Kitsch, Cute, and Cool Decorations The clearest signs of the impending holidays appear on buildings. Thousands of light bulbs illuminate the road, the malls, and the tallest skyscrapers. Giant trees tower over public spaces, such as department stores and parks. So do other Christmas-y decorations, including cut-out cartoons of elves, Santa, and reindeer. The kitsch vanishes into the darkness of night, however, when locals stroll around town, soaking up the beautiful artwork and lit-up outlines of architecture in the cool weather. The most-visited and selfied spot in town is none other than CentralWorld, which builds scenes exclusively for the season. 28 | DECEMBER 2015
Watch Fireworks from up High What celebration would be complete without pyrotechnics? It would be like chips without ketchup, or perhaps gingerbread without frosting, or eggnog without a little shot of spirits. No matter where you are in Bangkok this New Year’s Eve, you will be able to witness spectacular firework displays from the safety of great heights—say, lebua, Chatrium, or Millennium Hilton. The Chao Phraya River is among the best spots to watch fireworks bloom over the skyline. Lifestyle malls and hotels by the river compete against each other by sending their colourful plumes into the sky throughout the night. Other destinations, like Sanam Luang and Siam Paragon, also put on displays on New Year’s Eve. bangkok101.com
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Asiatique, and CentralWorld, transform their public spaces into dance floors. More than a few DJs and Thai celebrities make appearances—these too, like the Christmas-themed dioramas outside CentralWorld, are heavily selfied destinations. Restaurants, bars, and hotels also organize concerts, but they will also offer special menus and promotions to round out 2015 in extravagant, or delicious, style.
Make Tracks to Midnight Sales Gather at Beer Gardens Now annual institutions, beer gardens pop up across the city as the weather settles into winter mode. From Sathorn Square to Esplanade to CentralWorld and over to Asiatique, beer gardens combine towers and pints of brews with food, live music, and lots of camaraderie. Once again, big beer breweries in Thailand, including Chang, Singha, and Heineken, are setting up semi-temporary tables, seats, and stages where big-name Thai bands— rock, country, jazz, and more—will serenade crowds of happy friends and families.
Count Down at the Biggest Concerts On New Year’s Eve, a variety of free concerts featuring many well-known local artists will win the hearts of partygoers. Leading shopping malls, like Paragon, 30 | DECEMBER 2015
Thailand’s answer to Black Friday is the holiday season midnight sale. Department stores across the city spread cheer with grand end-of-the-year sales. Places like Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, and EMQuartier will extend opening hours while others will allow you to shop until you drop, closing at midnight.
Party, Party, Party What else would you expect? Sure, you can party anywhere in the world, but Bangkok does it best. Many locals might choose to have a small party at home with friends or family, eating and drinking, exchanging presents, and maybe even singing karaoke. Others will go buck wild in town, whether at RCA, Sukhumvit 11, or rooftop hangouts like Cloud 47 or Park Society. With so many holidays in December, and such good weather to boot, the month becomes a de facto period of decadence. So join in however you see fit. bangkok101.com
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Santa’s Little Snoopy Helpers patrol the social space outside the popular CentralWorld 32 | DECEM BER 2015
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out & about
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Malls beyond
Shopping
As holiday-deal fever sets in, Bangkok 101 takes a look at shopping malls in a different light. Culture, art, heritage, design, and entertainment—malls aren’t just for shopping anymore. BY LUC CITRINOT
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ights on! At CentralWorld, EMQuartier, Erawan, and Siam Paragon, giant sparkling Christmas trees welcome festive season back to Bangkok. These elaborate light displays have little to do with the spiritual aspect of Christmas, of course. But, with every passing year, Christmas lights in the Thai capital are getting increasingly sophisticated, spreading good cheer and signalling the start of shopping season. The holidays are back, and with them the opportunity to spend, spend, spend before deals disappear. While shopping is undoubtedly a favourite pastime of both locals and tourists, malls here are a bit more than mere places to fill up plastic bags. Over the last five years, Bangkok’s malls have enjoyed a quiet revolution. “It’s no longer just about retailing, but about providing extraordinary experiences in an arena where people can be inspired, excited, and entertained,” says Chadatip Chutrakul, Chief Executive Officer of Siam Piwat Co., which owns, among others, Siam Center, Siam Discovery, and Siam Paragon. The transition from retail to lifestyle is due in part to the rise of e-shopping. To compete with the ease of pointing and clicking from the comfort of a couch, malls have had to embrace change rather quickly. Many have evolved past their department store roots, becoming living spaces where art, design, entertainment, and even education cohabitate with shops. Most also express a unique identity, something mall owners hope will increase social appeal. The tender young Central Festival EastVille perhaps best describes the zeitgeist, billing itself as an “oasis of urbanite culture” on its website. By 2018, Consulting Cabinet John Lang Lasalle estimates that prime retail space in Bangkok will reach bangkok101.com
a sprawling 3.4 million square metres. Along the two existing BTS lines, there are currently 31 malls—11 in Ratchaprasong alone. In other words, there are a lot of them, and they’re all trying to sell different lifestyle experiences. Some surf the wave of nostalgia, sharing snapshots of old Thailand. Others offer Disneylandstyle versions of Korea, Japan, or France in the midst of this concrete jungle. And still others cater to consumer craving for eco-friendliness. What follows is a breakdown of malls with unique aspects. So before you do your holiday shopping, first shop for the atmosphere which appeals to you.
New York, New York! at CentralWorld CentralWorld is the downtown area’s largest mall. It’s also the sixth largest in the world, a towering giant with over 500 shops and restaurants. The mall has been extremely popular with Bangkok’s upper-middle class and tourists for years, especially those in search of a good meal. The mall has hundreds of restaurants, with cuisine ranging from the very humble to coffee shop chic to gourmet, while the supermarket offers products from all over the world. Where CentralWorld truly excels, though, is the arena of events: concerts, photography and painting exhibitions, beer gardens, and the best Christmas decorations in the city. The giant (faux) Christmas tree is Bangkok’s most impressive, wrapped in thousands of bright bulbs. With light sculptures displayed all around the plaza, the mall vaguely recalls the Rockefeller Center in New York. All that’s missing is the iconic skating rink—and the cold climate. DECEMBER 2015 | 33
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The Green Credo of EMQuartier EMQuartier is the city’s newest address for the rich and famous. There are many exclusive shops with brands never before seen here. But that’s not the only reason to visit. Behold its gardens and outdoor courts, Bangkok’s largest urban waterfall (40-metres-high), and its thousands of orchids and glittering sculptures. And on the top floor of the Helix building, a 3000-square-metre garden provides bird’s-eye views over the surroundings, including Benjasiri Park and Sukhumvit. It is a welcome green oasis and a great place to relax with friends. Before departing, check out the spectacular rainforest chandelier, a lively green sculpture of ferns and exotic plants suspended over the atrium of the Helix building.
Family-friendly Siam Paragon With over 250 shops across 500,000 square metres, Siam Paragon is a massive structure. Over the last ten years, it has become a magnet for shopping aficionados. Though architecturally shallow, it’s still a great place to visit with kids. “SEA LIFE Bangkok Ocean World” offers a plunge into the deep blue sea, where hundreds of species navigate huge tanks. On the upper floor is KidZania, where children can become professionals for a day. And if looking for glamour or the chance to bump into Thai celebrities, the Paragon Cineplex—a multiscreen cinema—regularly plays hosts to film festivals and special events.
Trendy Designs at Siam Center Bangkok’s trendiest shopping mall is also one of the oldest, as it was opened in 1973. A few years ago, Siam Center abandoned its Lego-brick appearance of flashy blue and yellow ceilings, replacing out-dated primary colours with dark anthracite and black décor. Most interesting is the concept behind each shop. “We wanted to pioneer a revolutionary retail concept that involved collaboration between developers, retailers, and brand owners to create a consistent visual identity. [This includes] concept shops, which are all aligned with Siam Center’s distinctive look and mood,” explains Chutrakul. Over 500 million US dollars were invested in the overhaul. The result is a maze of wooden structures, twisted tubes, sculptures, and electronic screens. While visitors will mostly see the same brands that are ubiquitous in Bangkok, Siam Center is worth visiting simply to soak up the creativity of Thai designers and examine the various kinds of art on display—even the bathrooms have art on the walls. 34 | DECEMBER 2015
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Don Giovanni Restaurant Traditional recipes hand-picked from the Italian countryside create the foundation for Chef Stefano’s bold menu which he makes completely his own. Using honest ingredients and modern techniques, he enlivens authentic Italian dishes with new twists. An exquisite New Year’s Eve. 5-course dinner THB 2,200 ++ From 8:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m. Live Entertainment Hagi Japanese Restaurant On New Year’s Eve treat yourself to an exceptional Japanese dinner from the hands of Chef Iwata. From live Teppanyaki featuring made-to-order meats and seafood, traditional Japanese favorites, to superbly selected desserts – Hagi offers something special for even the most discerning palates.
Blue Sky Restaurant Join with your family and friends for an unforgettable night at our Rooftop Restaurant & Bar where the last hours of 2015 will be celebrated. Let us surprise you with the mystique of the Masquerade theme. The Blue Sky is the perfect venue to start the New Year for you and your friends. New Year 6-course set menu THB 6,500++ From 8:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m. Live Band Blue Sky Bar Entrance fee: THB 999++ including 1 drink From 6:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m. DJ performances and countdown to 2016
From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Suan Bua Restaurant Celebrate the New Year with the best of the Thai fare in the relaxing surroundings of Suan Bua restaurant. A la carte menu with unlimited draught beer From 8:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m. Live Band
FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT T: 02 541 1234 ext. 4151 | E: fb_office@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cglb
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Around the World at Terminal 21
Embracing history at Asiatique The Riverside Asiatique was the first open-air shopping mall in the city to be located in historical buildings, occupying former warehouses along the Chao Phraya River. Despite the overwhelming volume of tourists that visit, the shopping centre has managed to retain more than a modicum of its charm. Explore the warehouses, colonial-style houses, or its tram as you peruse shops exhibiting the work of emerging Thai designers. Or stroll along the riverfront promenade before ducking into entertainment institutions such as Calypso Cabaret and the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre. Last but not least is its Ferris wheel, the only one in Bangkok.
The cheapest way to travel is to go to Terminal 21. The mall took inspiration from airports, with signage especially similar to the ones seen in Munich. However, visitors won’t find a single German-style shop here. On the contrary, they will stroll through Istanbul’s bazaars, traditional (and modern) Japanese shops, the streets of London, and the promenades of Paris. It’s fun, and except for the Paris floor—which resembles a Las Vegas hotel with a French theme—it’s not too cheesy. Photo ops abound: in front of a Samurai, next to a red double-decker bus, or maybe hanging over the Golden Gate Bridge. From a shopping point of view, there are many fantastic boutiques owned by young local designers.
Other Options outside the Box For a blast from the past, visit MBK and Erawan, two typical 1980s-style structures. While Erawan has struggled to reposition itself, MBK remains one of the most popular destinations in the city for cheap souvenirs, affordable clothing, and electronics, despite its cavernous, black hole-like atmosphere.
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A decade ago, Gaysorn Plaza was the pinnacle of luxury in Bangkok. In light of recently constructed competition, the elegant mall is now redefining itself, regularly asking top Thai designers to decorate its atrium with spectacular sculptures and flower arrangements.
The latest mall to hit town is Central Festival Eastville. Opened at the end of November, the mall is made to resemble the East Village in Manhattan, with its urban-chic collection of cafés, edgy design shops, and art galleries. Half-outdoors, half-indoors, this mall seems prepped to become the flavour of the month.
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with Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok & DoubleTree by Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok Come and experience our popular Scalini restaurant on Christmas or New Year’s Eve with a build your own 3, 5, or 7 course dinner or choose to enjoy our extensive festive buffet lines at DeeLite!
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We wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, Sukhumvit soi 24. For reservations please call 02 620 6666 email: bkksu.fb@hilton.com doubletreesukhumvit doubletreebkk hiltonsukhumvit hiltonbkk
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on the blockÂ
Bamboo Bar
Mandarin Oriental
Viva & Aviv
A Walkabout
Bang Rak BY GABY DOMAN
OP Place 38 | DECEMBER 2015
Speedy Grandma bangkok101.com
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Next door to OP Place is the Grand Dame herself, the Mandarin Oriental. Thailand’s oldest hotel has its stuffy elements, but its newly revamped Bamboo Bar is one of the best live music venues in the city—and certainly its oldest. If Soulbar’s underground chic doesn’t appeal to you, but an evening of jazz and smooth spirits do, this dimly lit venue, frequented by just about every A-lister who comes through Bangkok, is just the ticket.
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ust about every new art gallery in town is opening up on Charoenkrung, offering a glimmer of hope that perhaps this neighbourhood can preserve its character—that it can be a place where colonial architecture and faded shophouses somehow fend off (some of) the high-rise luxury condos and mega malls consuming the city. Charoenkrung may not be the most walkable community, but if you hop on a motorbike or boat between stop-offs, it’s bursting with artsy offerings and great bars. A good place to start your riverside jaunt is River City, one of the area’s easiest-to-find landmarks, right next to the pier if you’re coming by river. A quick peruse of the antiques mall is probably all you’ll need—unless you’re really intent on purchasing an overpriced relic, that is. It doesn’t hurt to stop off in Viva & Aviv for an ice-cold pick-me-up or three, either. But be warned: when the house music is bumping, you may find it hard to get up and finish your self-guided tour. Just northeast of River City is one of the area’s most popular hangouts, the very low-key Soulbar. Forget Saxophone: this intimate bar offers a much more exciting venue for live jazz and soul music. Despite—or perhaps because of—its cramped shophouse quarters, it brings in hordes of music lovers between Tuesday and Saturday. Get there at 6pm to make full use of the bar’s daily happy hours (and don’t miss out on the Thai craft beer or kombucha-laced brews, courtesy of Pure Luck). But bar-hopping isn’t the main scene in this area, where art galleries old and new can be found everywhere, from shophouses down nondescript sois to old factories and colonial buildings. Three of the coolest in the area are Speedy Grandma, Soy Sauce Factory, and the Jam Factory, which are best known for showcasing contemporary modern Thai art—not to mention their awesome opening night parties, which are bringing in a young artsy crowd who enjoy the social side of the galleries as much as the creativity. A second project by the Speedy Grandma folks, Speedy Grandchild, provides an experimental space for students and early-career artists to hone their craft. Perhaps the strength of the art community is best exemplified by the regular Silom/Charoenkrung Gallery Hopping Night, which gets bigger every time it’s held. One top venue on the gallery hopping trail is Atta Gallery, the only one in the city dedicated to wearable art, where jewellery is king. You won’t find the gem-heavy fine jewellery so often seen round the corner on Silom, but instead innovative art pieces, both one-of-a-kind and semi-mass-produced. A change of pace is the nearby OP Place and OP Garden (there’s a shuttle bus between the two). The mini shopping centre makes Central Embassy look low end, but is, needless to say, a much more pleasant experience. Even if you just poke your head in for a peek at its wooden staircase and boutiques that look like they’re from another era, the visit will be worth your time. Nearby OP Garden is hard to beat as a place to grab refreshments; if you’re not art-galleried out, visit the on-site Serindia Gallery, which specialises in fine art and photography.
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making marit
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A Change of
Wardrobe Tex tile 4Charit y Helps Bangkok
Let G o of Old Clothes f or a G o o d Cause
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efore you leave home for work tomorrow—before you go out for dinner and drinks this Friday—take a long, hard look at your wardrobe. Clear the cobwebs in the corner. Brush aside the tie rack, the dresses in rotation. Reach beyond the chinos in colourful anchor print. Buried in the back is what you’re looking for—the cotton T-shirts acquired from local 10ks, the salmon-coloured shorts a half-size too small, the V-neck that expressed four consecutive weeks of your taste before falling out of fashion, the wave of seersucker surging upon you. Shirts, shoes, and trousers you’ve never worn. Approximately ten per cent of the clothing and footwear you own you don’t use. That’s on average, of course. Maybe it’s more for you. Or less. In any case, in the depths of your closets and drawers lay shirts and shoes, bottoms and blouses, all gathering dust. Textile4Charity, a charitable project spearheaded by long-time volunteer Marc Fredriksz and his wife Bee Hongsaphap, and supported by the Goodwill Group Foundation, seeks to give those often forgotten objects new purpose. Textile4Charity sets up collection containers at key locations around Bangkok, making clothing donations simple: lift the lid and drop your goods into the box. The volunteers gather your old clothes and shoes and then sort and deliver them to their beneficiaries, the Thai Red Cross Society, the Second Chance Foundation, the Mirror Foundation, and SOS Children’s Village. The clothing that isn’t suitable for everyday wear—“You don’t want to send high heels to a children’s village,” says Fredriksz—are sold at second-hand markets, the profits then donated to the charity. About a year into being, Textile4Charity already has the look of an enduring project, one that fills a gap in Bangkok’s charitable efforts. “The Thai Red Cross had sent a container-load of their clothing to Nepal after the
earthquake,” explains Fredriksz. “A week or two after that, we came to them with 20 bags of clothing, and they told us, ‘Wow! This is really good! We just sent so much of our supplies [to Nepal], and we needed more in case of an emergency here in Thailand.’” But in a country where clothing drives and donations require frequent Googling and word-of-mouth guidance, gaining a crucial level of familiarity with residents has proven to be a surprising challenge. “If there’s a collection container close to where you live, you know where to put your clothing,” says Fredriksz, who was inspired to start the project while working on a “Dress4Success” campaign in late 2014 that sought to procure decent attire that the Goodwill Group’s students could wear to work or interviews. “It’s difficult to find places for the containers. We have eight now, mostly at international schools and universities, but we really want to double that number soon.” The actual creation and delivery of the containers—a specially designed, clearly marked, and waterproof steel box—was a problem solved long ago, and finding volunteers has never been an issue. “The students from Goodwill Group love to help with the sorting. The moment we ask for volunteers, they always stand up. Those women are really motivated,” Fredriksz declares, attesting to the success of the Goodwill Group’s efforts, who only demand commitment from students (the classes for at-risk women are free, but those who fail to regularly attend them face expulsion from the programme; in other words, the students have the power to influence their own well-being). A pillar of Textile4Charity is that no act of kindness, however small, is ever wasted. To the thousands who lack the funds to purchase clothing and shoes, your old, rarely worn, or never worn goods make a difference. All it takes to lend your support is a look through the closet and the drop of a bag.
Textile4Charity has so far collected thousands of kilograms of wearable goods—and that’s just the start. Collection containers are currently found at Goodwill Group Foundation, Wells International School, Regent’s School, New International School of Thailand (NIST), International School of Bangkok (ISB), Saint John’s University, Dhurakij Pundit University (DPU), Embassy Place Apartments, KV Mansion, and the head office of Toyota. To suggest a location where a container can be place, or to simply get involved at a deeper level, call 09 2447 4414, email info@textile4charity.org, or visit textile4charity.org.
bangkok101.com
DECEMBER 2015 | 41
THAI WEDDINGS TIE TOGETHER TRADITIONS PAST AND PRESENT
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bangkok101.com
insight
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Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON WEDDINGS
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lmost every evening in December and January, traffic gets denser than normal around major hotels in central Bangkok. The approach of the New Year ushers in the start of Thailand’s wedding season. Here, marriage isn’t merely an affair of hearts and souls, but also one of mergers and acquisitions between families. So when Thais tie the knot, it’s a big event, with budgets sometimes greater than those of independent films. Since Thais believe in auspicious timing, most couples consult an astrologer or a monk with expertise in forecasting to find the right date and time. (Nowadays, maybe they should seek a lawyer’s advice, too, because divorce rates are constantly climbing.) Once the date is set, selecting the right venue is crucial. In the past, ceremonies took place in the bride’s house. At present, hotel ballrooms, banquet halls, chic restaurants, secret gardens, stunning beaches, and even convention centres will do, depending on the couple’s desires and needs. Most guests only attend wedding receptions. The more intimate engagement ceremonies, usually held in the morning of the wedding day or a few months prior, are attended by family and close friends. Although the word “fiancé” is hardly heard, Thais still have borrowed several cues from the West. The groom dons a dinner suit or tuxedo while the bride is covered in a couture creation of white meringue. Those who can afford frivolous floral arrangements turn ballrooms into gigantic greenhouses, the hallways plastered with photographs of the couple. A prominent social figure presides over the reception, giving blessings and making toasts. The couple cuts the wedding cake and the bride throws her bouquet over her shoulder, a band of bride-wannabes waiting to snatch the floral arrangement from mid-air. Thais don’t do a first dance, a garter belt toss, or long speeches by best men and bridesmaids. The couple may play a favourite song to dance to, if they are so inclined, but not always. Guests tend to leave once their stomachs are filled, too, so it’s rare to see a party go on into the night. Like many global influences, we tend to pick and choose what we deem fitting and appropriate. If the families of the couples are of Chinese or Indian descent, the ceremonies differ. At Thai-Chinese weddings, the bride and groom present tea to their parents. The bride wears either a bright red cheongsam or a pink-hued wedding gown, and dishes with auspicious meanings are bangkok101.com
served at the banquet. Indian weddings, on the other hand, are famously exuberant. The festivities often last for several evenings, the attendees dancing to vibrant music decked out in colourful saris and glittering gold. Even the most subdued Indian wedding can resemble a Bollywood movie. While most rituals at receptions have no Thai origins, traditional Thai weddings are steeped in symbolism, especially the engagement ceremonies. Activities begin with merit making in the morning. After monks finish chanting blessings, the real fun begins. In a tradition known as khan mhaag, the groom’s family parades toward the bride’s parents carrying bowls of betel leaves, areca nuts, and various objects signifying abundance and prosperity. The groom’s family also brings sinn sod thong mhun—the bride’s dowry—as well as other auspicious presents, such as sugarcane and bananas, symbolising sweetness and fertility respectively. Once the groom arrives at the bride’s home, he has to prove his financial prowess by paying the bride’s relatives, who guard silver and golden gates sheltering his sweetheart. Before the rings are exchanged, either the groom’s parents or a senior couple representing them symbolically asks for the bride’s hand. Then the dowries and gifts are presented, inspected, and even carried—the heavier the weight of the gold given by the groom, the greater he believes the lucky lady’s worth to be. After engagement, the couple takes a seat and long garlands are draped over their chests. Their foreheads are anointed with powder, and sai monkhol, loops of white threads, are placed on their heads, linking them together. The rod nahm sung ceremony then begins with elders, parents, and guests bestowing wishes while pouring lustral water over the couple’s hands from a sacred conch shell. Finally, the couple is sent to their wedding bed in the song dtua ceremony. A happily-married elderly couple with several offspring arranges the bed, scattering flower petals as a blessing of good luck. At the bedside are a green melon, a grind stone, and an old cat, implying coolness, gravitas, and compliance respectively. The couple lies down (groom on the right) and pretends to fall asleep; when they “wake up,” they say they had good dreams. When the rituals that bond the couple have ended, what remain are love, trust, and respect. Dreams of living happily ever after may stroll toward the sunset or veer onto the ugly road of divorce and alimony. Only time will tell. DECEMBER 2015 | 43
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highlight
Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
PLENIPOTENTIARY PALACE HOW A BRITISH EXPAT’S PRIVATE VILLA BECAME THE OFFICIAL AMERICAN AMBASSADOR’S HOME.
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n July 1977, at the conclusion of a four-month language and cultural training program, my U.S. Peace Corps group was invited to a ceremony at the American ambassador’s residence. Thirty of the original 35 trainees had successfully completed the rigorous course, and at the ceremony we would be officially sworn in as full-fledged volunteers. The address—108 Withayu (Wireless) Road—was embossed on an invitation card I’d received. As dusk approached, I found a brass plaque fastened to a gate pillar that confirmed that the expansive property on the other side was the place I was supposed to be. As the guards showed me through a pedestrian gate, in the distance I could make out a large, warmly lit house surrounded by acres of manicured gardens and stately
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raintrees, with moat-like canals marking the perimeter. Here and there, peacocks strutted across the grass. That evening we were grandly hosted by U.S. Ambassador Charles S. Whitehouse, who I later learned was a Yale graduate and former CIA officer in Congo, Turkey, Belgium, and Cambodia. A few hundred meters farther south along Withayu Rd, with separate wings on both sides of the street, is the American embassy itself, one of the largest diplomatic missions in the world. Judging from the long lines of visa applicants standing outside the consular section every weekday, it may also be one of the busiest. Today the ambassador’s residence seems a world apart from these sterile centres of bureaucracy. If it weren’t for the high security fences one might mistake the bangkok101.com
highlight 10-acre green oasis for a resort, complete with a separate guesthouse, pavilion, swimming pool, and tennis court. Decades later I learned that the main villa, a magnificent teak edifice designed in tropical-colonial style, was built in 1914 by Horatio Victor Bailey, a British engineer who travelled to Siam to work for Bangkok Dock Company, one of the kingdom’s first active American firms. Bailey, an adventurer who turned his back on a substantial family inheritance to make Bangkok his home, also became one of the founders of Siam Motor Works and a purveyor of royal silver to King Vajiravudh (Rama VI). The latter bestowed Bailey with the Thai name title and name Phra Padibat Rajaprasong, meaning “one who carries out the royal intention.” In traditional Thai fashion, the house was raised high on stilts to avoid flood damage during the rainy season and to allow cooling breezes to circulate underneath, through, and around the home. This open-air lower section was later walled in. Square rooms upstairs opened onto each other and out to a cooling porch, with a broad veranda running along the front of the house. With the advent of air conditioning, these were closed in as well. The interior of the house was also designed to allow air to circulate freely, with very high ceilings and walls topped with intricately carved teak-lattice ventilators. British colonial–style touches included a dedicated billiards room (now the dining room), and carved teak embellishments, including faces that appear to match Asian eyes with European noses at the window corners. The massive house featured only two bedrooms. Former U.S. ambassador Ralph “Skip” Boyce, who lived at the residence from 2004 to 2007, undertook extensive research on the house while supervising once-
Former US Ambassador Kristie Kenney bangkok101.com
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every-seven-years refurbishments. Boyce told Architectural Digest that he believed the design to be “an Englishman’s idea of a Thai country home.” “The original explanation was that there was one bedroom for each of Bailey’s two Thai wives,” recounted Boyce. “Well, it turns out he had three wives, all of whom lived with him here in the house, all at the same time. The bedrooms were actually where the bedding was stored during the day. The open-air porch is where Henry Bailey slept, communal-style, with his three wives.” Bailey died in 1920, and his surviving wives and children continued to live in the home for two years. After that they moved out and hired the law firm of Bangueley and Tooth to administer the property. The firm rented the house to the Belgian legation to Siam from 1922 to 1926. Baron de Villenfange de Sorinnes, a Belgian royal guest of the legation in 1922, wrote that the house was “without doubt one of the most beautiful in Bangkok.” The Siamese treasury bought the house from the Bailey estate in 1926. Belgium continued to house its legation here until 1927, when Prince Traidos Prabandh, Siam’s minister of foreign affairs, requested that it be transferred to Raymond Stevens, an American advisor to the ministry. Stevens lived here until he left the country 1936, when his successor Fredrick Dolbeare took over. When the Japanese invaded Bangkok in World War II, American advisors cleared out, and the property was occupied by Japanese troops. Scorch marks left by charcoal cooking braziers can still be seen in the teak floor in a few places. When the war ended and the Japanese left, Thailand’s first American Ambassador, Edwin Stanton, asked the ministry of foreign affairs about using the property as the official ambassador’s residence. The Thai government consented, reportedly as a gesture of gratitude to the United States for opposing Great Britain’s wish to punish the country for collaborating with the Japanese in World War II. Stanton described the condition of the house when he encountered it in his memoirs. “With an avenue of magnificent dark spreading raintrees leading to it, we saw a sprawling sagging house, painted chocolate brown, shutters hanging precariously; indeed the whole house listed to one side. The extensive garden surrounding the house was crammed with rusted war junk, remnants of jeeps, trucks, gun carriages and tanks left there by Japanese troops. The property was encircled by a wide canal containing more rusted junk, which jutted out of the water at grotesque angles.” The ministry paid for the restoration and renovation of the property and Stanton became the first to inhabit what has remained the official U.S. ambassador’s residence ever since. Current U.S. ambassador Glyn T. Davies took up residence in August 2015, and continues the tradition of hosting everything from working lunches with local administrators or sit-down dinners with senior U.S. officials to large-scale receptions with musical entertainment. Sadly, Peace Corps swearing-in ceremonies now take place in the field, rather than at the ambassador’s residence. DECEMBER 2015 | 45
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Bizarre
Thailand
A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.
EXPAT LIFE IN THE 1950S
With few conveniences and many hazards, this generation of expats enjoyed a tough yet adventurous time, writes Jim Algie in the history book Americans in Thailand.
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he first Western-style nightclub in Bangkok was the Silver Palm Club, which opened its doors in 1948 near Patpong. Constructed from tin sheets forming a roof supported by telephone poles, and sporting a bar made out of teak, the club featured hostesses to dance or cajole into a late-night tryst, and a 12-piece orchestra swinging to jazz hits of the day. It was started by Alexander MacDonald of Bangkok Post fame, along with his buddies, Jorges Orgibet, a reporter and co-founder of the Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Thailand, and the omnipotent Willis Bird (who is thought to have been the role model for the titular character in William Lederer and Eugene Burdick’s novel The Ugly American). The venue soon became the hottest spot in town for expatriates and one of the few restaurants serving up a decent steak. For foreign investors, the business climate of the time was lukewarm. Few multinationals had set up operations in the kingdom. Exceptions to the rule were Esso (Thailand), which first came to Siam in 1894 to sell kerosene, and after World War II fuelled the demand for modern gas stations, as well as Coca Cola, which uncapped the 46 | DECEMBER 2015
market for foreign soft drinks in 1949. To make headway in a country where the brand was virtually unknown, the Thai branch came up with some innovative marketing tactics, to the point where, in June 1951, some 230 miniature, music-producing drink coolers arrived in Bangkok as part of a global advertising campaign. Those delivered to the kingdom played the song “Sai Fon” (“Rainfall”) composed by His Majesty the King when a golden key on the cooler was turned. Other coolers produced by the company and distributed elsewhere in the world played carols and popular hits. Billboards also helped the branding effort. From that time, a photo essay in Life magazine shows a group of farmers in conical hats, carefully posed under a billboard that reads “Welcome to Bangkok” beneath the company’s logo. That same year, the Bank of America, reportedly the largest private bank in the world, opened across the street from the General Post Office on Charoen Krung Road, with premier and military strongman Phibul Songkhram presiding over the opening ceremony. The Bangkok branch was the first American bank in Southeast Asia. Opening up new horizons in tourism and business bangkok101.com
highlight Pan American Airways put Bangkok on its route map in 1948. Despite the presence of such conveniences and international brand names, Bangkok was still considered a backwoods and a hardship posting for businesspersons and diplomats. Few better accounts of expatriate life during that time exist than David Lyman’s “Yesteryear – Bangkok in 1956.” Subtitled “What Life Was Like When AMCHAM Thailand was Born,” the booklet of colorful reminiscences and greying photos was given away during AMCHAM’s fiftieth anniversary celebrations in 2006. Lyman, the chairman and chief values officer for Thailand’s oldest law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins International Ltd, wrote of a capital where air-conditioning, gas stoves and apartment buildings did not exist, where people still slept under mosquito nets at night, where taxis were few and far between and tuk tuks had yet to swarm the streets, where the little sois made of compacted dirt turned into quagmires during the monsoon season, and when a whirlwind tour of the city for visitors may include a stopover for a gander at one of the opium dens in Chinatown, which did not stop smoking until 1959. The photos of the expatriate community in the pamphlet show the men wearing white linen suits with the ladies in cotton dresses during the day and resplendent in gowns of Thai silk at night. For this community, one of the few luxuries readily available in Bangkok was the presence of so many shoemakers, tailors and vendors hawking inexpensive fabrics. Back then the city’s infrastructure was ramshackle at best. Phone lines were often out of service, blackouts and brownouts were frequent, and the water supply often dried up. But adversity also bred bravery, as Lyman attested to in this anecdote from the booklet, “In the summer of 1955 I was incapacitated by appendicitis and was taken to the Bangkok Adventist Hospital for an operation. Just as I was being wheeled to the operating theater, the lights went out. So, instead of using an elevator, I swung myself off the gurney, walked down two flights of stairs, marched into the operating room and literally climbed onto the operating table. An emergency generator in the hospital supplied lighting for the surgeons to do their bit. However, the anesthetist couldn’t see too well for the spinal he was giving me and I ended up with 25+ years of periodically debilitating headaches.” Health scares were a daily threat then. All the expats had to have yearly inoculations to ward off tetanus, Japanese encephalitis, cholera, scrub typhus, typhoid and paratyphoid, as well as shots every three years to boost their immunity to small pox. In spite of the U.S. sponsoring a nationwide policy to eradicate malaria, that mosquitoborne disease remained a constant contagion; prevention consisted of dowsing yourself every six hours with a bottle of mosquito repellent strong enough to strip the varnish from furniture. Then, as now, the sharing of such hardships was a bonding agent among the foreigners. Lyman characterized his fellow Americans as “an eclectic, fun-loving group which was small enough so everyone pretty much knew each other but large enough to be able to avoid those who you wanted to avoid.” By the mid-‘50s the American community consisted of around 1,200 people. Their nucleus of social life, also popular with bangkok101.com
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Thais who had been educated overseas, was the Royal Bangkok Sports Club, which is one of the few remaining holdovers from those days. Besides hosting horse races, golf matches and costume parties, the club had courts for squash, badminton and tennis, a swimming pool, a billiard room that was off limits to women and, rarity of rarities for Bangkok then, hot showers. But even that most Western of sports—golf—came with a few local twists in the form of snakes slithering around the course, and each golfer employed two local caddies, the first fulfilling a more conventional role while the “khlong caddy” whose job was to fish the balls out of the canal and club snakes. Outside the Silver Palm, and a few other nightspots, most entertaining was done at home and at a few other restaurants such as Mizu’s Kitchen on Patpong. (Caught in a malodorous time warp, the latter venue has changed little since then.) Bangkok’s boundary lines were bounded by canals and circumscribed by rice fields that dominated Sukhumvit Road after Soi 20. For the most part, farang life revolved around New Road running south to Sathorn, then bisected by a busy canal flanked with rain trees, Petchburi Road running east to Ploenchit. From the embassy strip of Wireless Road, you could hang a left on the corner of Rama IV and head east to the port of Khlong Toey. The historic district of Rattanakosin, with the Grand Palace and the royal cremation ground and former weekend market of Sanam Luang, housed government offices and ministries, as it does today, though a strip of Rajadamnern Avenue, near the Democracy Monument, functioned as an upscale tenderloin to a few long-gone dance clubs where the clientele of mostly foreign males were catered to by local women who doubled as both dancers and prostitutes. That street is a main setting in Jack Reynolds’ still-in-print novel from 1956, A Woman of Bangkok, where the British protagonist meets the self-described “Number one bad girl in Bangkok.” Up north, the district of Bang Kapi, then an affluent suburb and home to many diplomats thanks to the nearby British embassy, is now a shabby residential neighborhood of shop-houses and small businesses. In David’s recollections, the 1950s were adventurous times, the expatriates feeling like pioneers in the Wild West—“not like now when everything is laid out for them.’’ In contrast to the population explosion of expats in recent years, this generation had the advantage of being very few in number and thus felt “special’’ in the eyes of many Thais. “Access was easy for foreigners then,’’ said his father, Albert. “I went right up to see the Chief of Justice of the Court of Appeals who said, ‘Sure, Mr. Lyman come right in.’”
This is the second instalment of the story of Jim Thompson’s disappearance in the Cameron Highlands in 1967. The first ran in the October issue of Bangkok 101. To read more about Thompson and other prominent expats like him, pick up a copy of Americans in Thailand, a lavishly illustrated hardcover history book on sale at Asia Books and Kinokuniya in Bangkok for B1295.
DECEMBER 2015 | 47
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very thai
ROYAL PORTR AITS
PICTURES OF KINGS PAST AND PRESENT EXPRESS THE THAI SENSE OF IDENTITY
PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH
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cross the Kingdom, homes, offices, factories, shops and public buildings display at least one royal portrait. Thais have long revered their kings as a devaraja (a semi-divine incarnation of Vishnu), and as a dhammaraja—a righteous Buddhist fount of Goddess. Today the monarchy is one of the three official pillars of Thainess, along with nation and religion, and is identified with good fortune, development and national pride. So royal portraits are objects of deep reverence. As well as photographs, paintings and sculptures, and everyday forms like money and stamps, royal images appear on amulets, billboards, railcards and stickers covering skyscrapers. The face of the revered King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) is omnipresent and given pride of place as “father” the nation, while Her Majesty Queen Sirikit is the maternal figure. Their birthdays are Thailand’s Father’s Day and Mother’s Day. Among other members of royal family, Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn is often shown in military uniform, and Princess Sirindhorn engaging in good works and cultural endeavours. The late Somdej Ya (the Princess Mother who bore Kings Rama VIII and IX) is portrayed in many homes. Also prominent are two great former rulers, Rama IV (King Mongkut) and Rama V (King Chulalongkorn),
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
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in tribute for securing Siam’s independence and development. Since the 1980s boom, a cult of Rama V as the pioneer of modern prosperity can be seen in offerings to altars of his pictures, statuettes and amulets, and also to his equestrian statue in Bangkok every Tuesday night, and on his birthday, October 23. Thais feel an intimate relationship to their royal family, and chose portraits that reflect their own interest in activities under royal patronage, as well as royal hobbies, development projects, or rituals. Oft-seen images depict Rama IX sailing, Rama VI acting in plays, and Rama V cooking, or in the rajapataen suit he designed. Queen Sirikit has championed the refined Thai crafts, especially silk, the feature in most images of her… The King’s Birthday on December 5, and the Queen’s Birthday on August 12, see a profusion of royal portraits, usually bearing the phrase ‘Song Phra Charoen’ (‘Long Live the King’) and the entwined initials of royal insignias. These adorn gates, doorways, eaves and purpose-built shrines with an altar for offering or dedication books to sign. Between the Grand Palace, Ratchadamnoen Road is swathed in fairy lights, potted flowers, coloured ribbons, huge picture frames, sculptures of regalia, and arches laden with iconography.
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
bangkok101.com
S N A P S H OT S
heritage
Sanam Chandra recalls the castles of Disney lore, a fitting setting to stoke the Christmas spirit 50 | DECEMBER 2015
bangkok101.com
heritage
S N A P S H OT S
OF FANTASIES AND FAIRY TALES A European-style Castle in Nakhon Pathom Recalls Christmas in Europe BY LUC CITRINOT
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hristmas is upon us, with memories of pine trees, presents, and bedtime tales. Classic movies and fairy tales are part of the Christmas tradition that doesn’t always translate to Thailand. Yet there is one magical place close to Bangkok where memories of enchantment evoke the spirit of the holiday. About 50 kilometres west of Bangkok, in Nakhon Pathom, sits a castle seemingly swiped from Snow White. Before ascending to the throne, then-Crown Prince Vajiravudh was a regular visitor to the area, coming often for pilgrimage to Phra Pathommachedi. In 1907, he bought about 135 hectares of land so that he could build a place to stay. And so Sanam Chandra Palace was built for the young King Rama VI. Like most castles owned by Thailand’s royal family, Sanam Chandra Palace is a collection of small mansions and castles surrounded by opulent gardens. Some of the villas were granted to Silpakorn University to support its growing enrolment, but the three most beautiful structures remain in their original form, including the most imposing— and the most classical—the Bhimarn Prathom Residence, which was King Rama VI’s personal abode. Itthithepsan Kritdakorn, a minor member of the royal family bearing the title of Mom Chao, constructed the other two surviving structures. Europe was the obvious source of inspiration for the architect, who studied at Harrow in England, visited the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, and was a founding member of the Association of Siamese Architects. Commissioned sometime around 1916, his Mareerajaratabulung Residence was built with golden teak in European neo-classical style. The dark orange and pink structure is a curious coming together of an English manor and Thai details, such as the tiled roof and the open galleries. It is connected by a delicate wooden walkway passing a moat to Chaleemongkolasana Residence, the second stunning building designed by the young royal. bangkok101.com
The tiny medieval-style castle resembles the palaces project in popular media, with its half-timber façade, arcades, and turrets. Built around 1908, it is said to be influenced by both the French Renaissance and Tudor England. However, its shape is more reminiscent of the structures built during the reign of King Louis II, or the Bavarian castles in Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau. Their reflections shimmering off the moat, both castles look perfect, almost unreal, as if they belonged to a movie set. Fitting, then, that Chaleemongkolasana Residence used to play host to a number of stage plays. And one of the most famous actors in those plays just so happened to be King Rama VI himself.
The quaint Mareerajaratabulung Residence To get to Sanam Chandra, follow the signage to Nakhon Pathom, 56 kilometres west of Bangkok. It is about a 70-minute drive from the city. The castle is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 4pm.
DECEMBER 2015 | 51
WINTERTIME MEANS WONDERFRUIT, A FESTIVAL UNLIKE ANY OTHER IN THAILAND 52 | DECEM BER 2015
bangkok101.com
WONDERFRUIT
PATTAYA
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t’s weird. It’s wonderful. It’s Wonderfruit. Thailand’s answer to Coachella returns to the rolling fields of rural Pattaya from December 17-20. Just like last year, in its wildly popular inaugural edition, the seminal festival combines music, culinary arts, environmentalism, health and wellness activities, round-the-clock parties, and more on the sprawling grounds of a golf course-in-waiting. A key pillar of the experience is, of course, music. This year, Wonderfruit promises another line-up of leading artists from around the world. Among international acts on the bill are Com Truise, The Faint, Yasiin Bey (the rapper better known as Mos Def), Rhye, Anchorsong, and the iy_project, a unique collaboration of renowned light artist Chris Levine and composer Jon Hopkins. Some of the top Thai artists taking part are Polycat, Greasy Cafe, Pongsit Kampee, and DESKTOP ERROR. What starts at music extends far beyond the medium, as festival co-founders Jay Montonn and Pete Phornprapha have designed Wonderfruit to nurture discourse, creativity, and total well-being, linking the earth and the human spirit. Dining will take many forms—cafés, pop-up restaurants, farm-to-table feasts, food trucks, and street food stalls—and there will be a variety of drinks, too, from coconut water to coffee to craft beer and cocktails. An eco-friendly bonus is the integrated water filtration system, allowing guests to fill up their bottles with clean water any time of day. Visual art incorporates performance, architecture, installation, design, and fashion. Its driving forces include Thai artist Witaya Junma and Duangrit Bunnag, founder of The Jam Factory. On the holistic side of things, Wonderfruit offers wellness workshops and gatherings aimed at bettering the body and soul. Think yoga, a play palace for kids, a swimming hole, and, yes, drum circles. Wonderfruit is more than a festival—it’s a cross-cultural experience the likes of which Thailand had never seen before 2014. And with each passing year, it gains new and greater texture. Of all the festivals on the docket this December, Wonderfruit is the one not to miss. For more information and ticket prices, visit wonderfruitfestival.com.
bangkok101.com
DECEMBER 2015 | 53
T R AV E L
upcountry now
November 25 – December 7 River Kwai Bridge Week Experience Kanchanaburi past and present during the annual River Kwai Bridge Week. The highlight of the festival tends to be the light and sound show, which tells the history of the Death Railway, Hellfire Pass, and the infamous bridge on the River Kwai, making every spectator a witness to the rise and fall of the railway. The festival also includes a massive fair at the bridge, incorporating cultural performances, historical displays, and various exhibitions.
December 5 – January 10 Jim Thompson Farm Tours The tours at the Jim Thompson farm at Pak Thong Chai, in Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat), provide a unique opportunity to observe silkworm rearing and silk farming as part of the Isaan way of life. Other highlights include mushroom cultivation, hydroponic flower gardens, fruit orchards, decorative plant nurseries, and large fields of colourful flowers.
December 5 – 12 Phuket King’s Cup Regatta Established in 1987, and today considered by many to be Asia’s biggest and most popular sailboat competition, the annual King’s Cup Regatta at Phuket sees competitive sailors from all over the globe racing off Kata Beach in dinghies, keelboats, and multihull vessels.
December 6 Nongkhai Marathon 2015 Along the banks of the Mekong, folk culture, delicious food, and nature combine. This year, runners from across Thailand can soak it all up in distances from 5k to the full marathon, 42.195k. The Nongkhai Marathon takes runners out and back through a scenic course on the asphalt, tracing the river and traversing the town of Nongkhai. With large cash prizes, expect to see top competition.
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upcountry xxx escape now
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December 19 – 20 Big Mountain Music Festival 7 The country’s largest annual music festival moves from its old digs in Khao Yai to a new location at Kaeng Krachan Country Club and Resort in Phetchaburi, featuring nine innovative stages under the “Joh” or Thai Rhythm theme. Bask in the pleasant weather—or, you know, go buck wild—to the tune of 200 live acts representing every genre under the sun, from rock, pop, and indie to luk thung, mor lam, and dance tracks from top DJs and international artists.
December 19 – 20 Isaan Kite Festival During the harvest season, when the cold northeastern wind blows in to Huai Rat, Buriram, this festival takes place in an effort to preserve and promote Isaan traditions. A competition gathers kite-flyers from surrounding villages, giving them a stage to show off their piloting skills and techniques. Locals will display traditional aek kites outside the skies, too, with a variety of cultural performances. There will also be lots of food, souvenirs, and other local products to peruse courtesy of vendors.
Mon Jam in Mae Rim on a lazy afternoon: an excellent spot to re-connect with nature
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One with the Road M ae Rim M ot orc ycle Fre e d om CRAIG SAUERS
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t’s late on a Sunday afternoon, and practically all human life in Chiang Mai is homed in on Tha Pae Gate, the unofficial start of a once-weekly walking street. I’ve been here before and know what I’m getting myself into—hilltribe products hawked by real-life hilltribe people; feeding frenzies under hot tarpaulin in narrow temple grounds; very public massage; textiles, silver, and replica paintings; a surreal corridor of bath products, synthetic light, and sun-kissed skin. I am also well aware that by the time I reach the midway point, my energy will have flagged, my calves will have cramped, and all objects for sale will have eddied into an indistinguishable blur of cotton cloth and primary colours.
Yet here I am, barrelling into the maw of the beast.
Tourists slowly streaming into the botanical gardens bangkok101.com
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upcountry escape Photo Credit: LannaPhoto
A torrent of tourists at Tha Pae Gate As a rusty sky turns into a black veil, Ratchadamnoen Road, cutting through the heart of the old town, fills with roving herds of day-trippers returned and urban trekkers wandering to guesthouses in elephant pants. The air acquires the sweet jasmine scent of the recently pampered as they pass by. On the cusp of the walking street, I’m solicited by a man whose songthaew is parked on the curb. He leans against the hood. On the windshield is a faded decal of a big cat. Like vines, tendrils of chest hair have climbed over the collar of his aloha shirt. A half-smoked cigarette stays glued to his lower lip. “Tiger Kingdom?” he suggests. I decline, and his attention reverts to market-going masses. This setting is like a theatre of the absurd. The lighting is hot and yellow, the music off in the distance. Audience and actor approach, but remain separated by the wall between outsider and insider, tourist and native, punter and purveyor. Conversation isn’t so much stymied as it is stuck on peripheral topics. And the crowds are unbearable. Not just in terms of size, but also for what they represent. In every stare fixed on children dancing for pocket change, every negotiation for faux Birkenstocks mired over 10 baht—in every itinerant soul that brushes against my shoulder I see myself and feel pangs of cynicism and guilt. Other tourists are the truest window to the soul. On Monday morning, I wake up early to go running around the moat. As soon as I’ve finished, my fiancé and I are taking our 125cc Honda Click rental to Mae Rim, 58 | DECEMBER 2015
the neighbouring district and most accessible wilderness. I’m warming into something of a strained canter when I reach an intersection, where a paunchy middle-aged man, wearing a late-day look at the daybreak hour, eyes me up, head to toe. “Tiger Kingdom?” he whispers, sweeping his arm like a display model showcasing a songthaew. This is the seventh time he’s invited me into his cherry-red truck in two days. I’ve ridden in plenty before. Always bonerattling, often life-threatening, especially when ascending the kind of gradients we’re about to ascend, but without seat belts or reachable handlebars. No, thanks.
“FOR MANY, THERE’S A DEEPER URGE TO DISCOVER A FEELING OF FREEDOM RATHER THAN FULFIL EXPECTATIONS. WE HOPE TO FIND IT IN THE WOODS, ON THE ROAD, WHILE STANDING ON THE EDGE OF A CLIFF. BUT EVEN ZEN HAS ITS LIMITS.” When I return to the corner an hour later, the songthaew tout is guiding a couple of Spanish tourists bangkok101.com
Reserve your perfect seat for the year-end fireworks Brasserie 9 - the merriest place in town
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Baan Med Bua in the quiet Pong Krai
The sky is only sometimes blue, but the road always open into his yawing death machine. This is a shame, I think. Despite the risk inherent in travelling on two thin wheels, which is at least as great as putting one’s faith in a semiprofessional taxi-truck driver, the motorcycle’s appeal to primal instincts is too great to deny. Motorcycles—or, in this case, scooters—have a way of bringing us closer to ultimate reality. Ask Harley owners for their thoughts on freedom. Robert Pirsig wrote an entire book about it. In “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance,” he talked about leaving behind metaphysical constraints— about how, after a while, one completely loses sight of the action. Stripping away the conceptual grid, only the asphalt, the elements, and the driving exist. And eventually one becomes the driving in and of itself. This, on the one hand, is the selling point of Mae Rim. Or, in broader terms, Chiang Mai. All travellers find the hyper-advertised Tiger Kingdom, not to mention a few unsavoury reptile farms and ATV parks, upon turning off the highway and onto the mountain road. But these are easily avoidable and only representative of a certain breed of tourism. Mae Rim is also a massive splash of raw green on a rapidly expanding map. The road and its proximate attractions are surrounded by jungles and peaks, offering the possibility to escape from the herd—and from oneself—when on two wheels. Circumstantial freedom, in other words: the ability to drive wherever you want, whenever you want. As the road progresses, soft curves uncoil like northern sausage. We take this winding track to Pong Yaeng, 60 | DECEMBER 2015
Idling away the afternoon over Isaan food and Leo near the Nong Hoi Royal Project, and turn onto a hill up which the scooter does not seem to enjoy hauling over a hundred kilograms of flesh, not to mention bags packed with clothing, locally brewed moonshine, and books. We successfully summit, though, surfacing at Pong Krai, a village of bell pepper farms, hothouses, and a not-quiteopened resort called Baan Med Bua. The entire scene is incongruous against expectations. A few dozen houses of concrete and corrugated metal, a stark white temple sitting on a slope, and this beautiful lodge looking over it all from its paradise perch. The resort is made of local wood. Some of its structural beams are bamboo with electric-pole girth. On its undulant grounds grow strawberries, papayas, and coffee plants. Lunch and dinner come from the garden. At night, the sky glows with star and moon light. At play is this weird disconnect with luxury and the modern world as we shower in luxury and modern conveniences—one plush bed the size of two king-sized beds, satellite television, high-end alcohol served in a den-like library with a fireplace that would be the perfect setting for après-ski in Aspen. At odds are competing desires. The power to pick and choose the cords we unplug: I wonder if this is the most modern freedom. The following morning we descend on the bike into Pong Yaeng, where we grab a cup of coffee in a barbershop/homestay/café, the beans procured from a local hilltribe plantation. From there, we head to the Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden, over 500 stunning hectares bangkok101.com
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A hilltribe child reflects at Mon Jam incorporating curated gardens, thousands of plant species, and a handful of research centres. We’re allowed to drive our bike through the garden, even “Banana Avenue,” with its 200 kinds of banana species. We stop at outdoor exhibits, a canopy walk, and the “Glasshouse Complex,” where orchids, ferns, lotus flowers, desertdwelling plants (i.e. cacti), and tropical plants are grown for research and development.
“MOTORCYCLES HAVE A WAY OF BRINGING US CLOSER TO ULTIMATE REALITY. STRIPPING AWAY THE CONCEPTUAL GRID, ONLY THE ASPHALT, THE ELEMENTS, AND THE DRIVING EXIST. EVENTUALLY ONE BECOMES THE DRIVING IN ITSELF. ” After a self-guided tour of the gardens, we get lunch at a roadside som tam and gai yang joint beside a stream. Thai families are sitting on mats next to the water, drinking Leo and eating chicken, the adults seemingly idling away a hot, dry afternoon with food and drink while kids splash 62 | DECEMBER 2015
around in the murky pool. Absent are tour buses and other stray tourists, so we’re separated from one kind of hoi polloi but thrust into another. One lens removed, another put on, the perspective reframed. Finally we visit Mon Jam, the misty hilltop where Thai tourists camp and snack over romantic views. As promised, the views of the valleys below are unimpeded and striking. It isn’t overrun with people, but the dynamic is different. There’s some hilltribe-related consumption in the form of wooden go-karts for hire and colourful attire for sale, and overall the type of tourist has flipped from foreign to local. This is the sort of environment many pine for after spending too much time within the mass travel bubble, although, ultimately, on this level dreams and reality are conflated— being around locals doesn’t necessarily foster meaningful interaction, although it raises the odds of it happening. There are two paths to consider in Mae Rim. The wealth of man-made or man-sanctioned attractions caters to our basest desires—we want to rest our heads on tiger haunches, take dips in the roaring Mae Sa waterfall, wander through strawberry patches that people tend to for a living. These are well-advertised activities that are exotic and therefore in line with the preconceived image of an exotic holiday. Yet, for many, there’s a deeper urge to discover a feeling of freedom rather than fulfil expectations. We hope to find it in the woods, on the road, while standing on the edge of a cliff above the clouds. But even Zen has its limits. And if we fly too far from the foundation, then maybe we forget what freedom really means. bangkok101.com
Past to Present: modern Thimphu includes literary festivals, new architecture, and even rock music 64 | DECEMBER 2015
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A literary week in the Bhutanese capital brings out the city’s best. BY JOE CUMMINGS
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ast August I travelled to the happiest country in the world to attend Mountain Echoes, a literary festival now in its sixth edition. It was my first trip to Bhutan, one I’d put off for years on principle because of the high advance fees (US$200250 per person, per day, even for couples) necessary to obtain tourist visas. It’s not so much that I can’t afford it—after all the fees include accommodation, meals, and guide services—it’s just that I’m more comfortable making my own travel arrangements, wherever I go. In this case the Bhutanese government provided me with a visa to attend the event as a journalist, thanks to the kind interventions of Mita Kapur, CEO of Siyahi, India’s leading literary consultancy. Mita also co-produces India’s legendary Jaipur Literary Festival, upon which Mountain Echoes is partially modelled.
A Thimphu bridge decorated with prayer flags bangkok101.com
On my own dime, I fly Druk Air, but almost don’t make it when the flight makes an unannounced—but not unscheduled, as it turns out—stop in Bagdogra, a town in West Bengal, India, on the Bhutanese border. Luckily after I unload my carry-on and start walking down the mobile stairs, a Druk flight attendant asks whether I intend to stay in India. I make a hasty retreat back to my seat, feeling a bit stupid. I make a note to look at Druk’s Bagdogra flight as a possible quick gateway to Darjeeling and Sikkim at a later date. After the plane threads a series of steep mountain valleys to land at tiny Paro airport—one of the most difficult approaches in the world—the crisp, clear air is a welcome change from smog-hazed Bangkok. After paying a $50 visa processing fee at immigration, I am met by a Bhutanese driver who leads me to his car
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Author Lucy Hawkings and French sci-fi writer Pierre Bordage sign autographs at Mountain Echoes for the 54-kilometre drive from Paro to Thimphu. The road follows a stunning river most of the way, passing fruit orchards, snow-clad mountains, farmhouses, and flag-streaming chortens (Vajrayana Buddhist stupas). Given the complete lack of factories, it’s easy to believe that agriculture and livestock contribute 45 per cent of Bhutan’s GNP. Thimphu, Bhutan’s political and economic capital, presents a tidy arrangement of newish brick and stone buildings designed to imitate traditional Bhutanese architecture. Streets follow the gentle contours of the Raidak River valley at an elevation of around 2600 meters. Despite being the nerve centre of national government, the town engenders an air of calm, even though it’s the middle of a work day. The festival has arranged for me to stay at Druk Hotel, a deluxe four-star which is very conveniently located alongside Clock Tower Square in the heart of the city. Beautifully decorated with Bhutanese art and textiles, the Druk is one of Bhutan’s larger hotels, though in any other country 53 rooms would be considered relatively small. Before the festival begins, I decide to visit Thimphu Memorial Chorten, a huge gilded stupa built in 1974 to honour Jigme Dorji Wangchuck (1928–1972), the 3rd King of Bhutan. Classic Tibetan in style, the impressive vase-shaped stupa includes sculptures of 36 tantric deities coupling in yab-yum, which though seemingly erotic is actually a Tantric Buddhist expression of wisdom in union with compassion. Over the next three days, the festival unfolds to reveal an astounding mix of literary minds who engage in intellectual and cultural dialogue on myriad subjects. Main venues for events included the Royal University of 66 | DECEMBER 2015
Bhutan, Tarayana Centre, the Taj Tashi Hotel, and Nehru Wangchuck Cultural Centre. An initiative of the India-Bhutan Foundation, with support from the Government of Rajasthan, this year the festival coincides with year-long celebrations for the 60th birthday of the 4th Bhutanese king, Jigme Singye Wangchuck. Bhutan’s Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck serves as royal host for the occasion. Although in Thailand I’m used to royal sponsorship of cultural events, here I’m surprised to see that Her Majesty attends the proceedings daily, acting both ceremonially and as an active intellectual participant. As expected with Indian co-sponsorship, many of the speakers hail from the Subcontinent, including bestselling novelist Ashwin Sanghi, journalist Bahar Dutt, Bollywood filmmaker Rajkumar Hirani, and standup comedian Sorabh Pant. Aside from delivering a side-splitting comedy routine to a packed auditorium, Sorabh talks about his book, Under Delhi, which he described as a “bestseller—I’m trying my best to sell it.” India-born-and-raised French actress Kalki Koechlin performs a monologue called “Just Another Rant,” revealing the contradictions of being a woman, a foreigner, and an actor in India. One afternoon I attend an exclusive screening of her ground-breaking 2009 film “Dev Das,” and I am briefly star-struck when Kalki herself stops by to introduce the picture. Among the Bhutanese speakers are author Dasho Sherub Gyeltshen, wildlife conservationist Tshering Tempa, historian and meditation teacher Khenpo Phuntsok Khenpo Phuntsok Tashi, and the Queen Mother herself. I’m struck by the seeming unity of their message and bangkok101.com
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over the border
The Buddhist bells of Bhutan
A snapshot of Thimphu in cultural transition their combined focus on Bhutan’s vaunted Gross National Happiness. One of the government ministers makes the staggering announcement that Bhutan intends for all agriculture to be organic by the year 2020. Representing the West, mystical poet Rupert Arrowsmith speaks about how he became a Buddhist, before reciting his poem “The Way to Bhutan.” Meanwhile French sci-fi author Pierre Bordage joins children’s book author Lucy Hawking (daughter of Stephen Hawking) to discuss the idea that other worlds exist within our own imaginations whether or not they exist “out there.” Kathmandu-based American photographer Thomas Kelly presents a marvellous slide show and lecture on Bhutanese architecture in support of his recent book Himalayan Style. The book sells out quickly in the sales tents and kiosks at each festival venue. The liveliest presentation of the week features Rocky Singh and Mayur Sharma, hosts of the Indian foodie TV series “Highway on a Plate.” In conversation with witty columnist Suhel Seth, the high-energy duo talks about their 200,000-kilometre journey across India, eating local cuisines and street food with the philosophy “When in doubt, eat it.” Without question, the week hits a peak when I’m invited to attend a private dinner hosted by Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck at the Royal Palace. A van picks me and other guests up at the Druk Hotel for a lengthy drive outside the city through a heavily forested area that serves as a wildlife reserve for the takin, Bhutan’s national animal. After passing through stately lamp-lit gates, we’re ushered into the royal garden, filled with tents, for a cocktail reception and live music. When introduced to Her Majesty, I’m offered a welcoming smile 68 | DECEMBER 2015
Despite change, traditions like street markets endure and a warm handshake, the simple hospitality of which leaves me feeling a bit overwhelmed. After cocktails and wine, the party moves into the Queen Mother’s plush living quarters, filled with Bhutanese Buddhist art and antiques. The sumptuous buffet includes such Bhutanese delicacies as ema datshi, a tonguetingling mix of local cheese and green chillies, hoentoe, buckwheat dumplings stuffed with turnip greens and cheese, and jasha maru, minced chicken, tomatoes, and highly aromatic spices. The last two days I make an effort to get out on my own and see more of Thimphu. I track down Zombala, a humble eatery near the so-called Hong Kong Market reputed to serve the best momos in Bhutan. Sharing a table with an older Bhutanese man and two schoolgirls, I order a mixed plate of beef and vegetarian dumplings. Dunked into Zombala’s homemade chilli sauce, they’re the best momos I’ve ever tasted, no question. At Clock Tower Square, I catch an early evening performance by North East Breeze, a well-known fusion band from Guwahati, India. The steps above the square are packed with locals, who loudly cheer every song. Another night I follow Rocky and Mayur to an infamous live music bar called Mojo Park. Local bands Sunny and The Leones, The Back Beads, and The Baby Boomers take turns commanding the stage while we enjoy too many bottles of Red Panda beer and Druk 11000 malt liquor. By the time I board the Druk Air flight back to Bangkok—this time with no stopover in Bagdogra—I’m making plans to return to the Land of the Thunder Dragon. I can’t say whether Bhutan is the world’s happiest country, but for the time being I’m the world’s happiest man. bangkok101.com
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MISGIVING (PART 1) Death is a part of life, not the opposite of it. Yet accepting death—or rather accepting loss—can be one of the most difficult acts we as humans ever endure. “I’m getting used to the loss, I can handle it very well,” claims Rattapoom Piwpantamit, the artist whose series of oils on canvas wrestle with the meaning of death and suffering in life. “The [hardest thing] is to look at suffering in the eyes of the ones you love most. The longer we live, the more experiences like this we have to face.” It’s a challenging topic to examine through painting. And yet, with a style demarcated by muted colours and subtle but obvious imagery—skulls, Caesar, a croaked toad—Rattapoom does just that. It helps that, to express his conflicted emotions, he has drawn on time he spent in hospitals by the side of family members. “The past few years I’ve had to spend most of my days in the hospital, even sit and stay awake until dawn [a couple of times],” he admits. “In the darkness, I’m free. I can see every shadow, all the blinking lights, hear the quiet sounds. It’s so empty it leads me to think.” What the artist has found in the shadows is a twisted ball of emotion, growing like a lump inside of him. Despite his attempts to return favours bestowed upon him by taking care of his ailing loved ones, helping them shower and cleaning up after them, the artist still experiences frustration. The first part of a series of paintings, MISGIVING (Part 1) by Rattapoom Piwpantamit is on display at Number1gallery until December 26.
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exhibitions
THE BEGINNING OF MYSTERIOUS FLOWER
NUMBER 1 GALLERY 4F 401-402 Silom Galleria, 919/1 Soi 19 Silom Rd | 08 3445 8333, 0 2630 2523 | number1gallery.com | Mon-Sat 10am-7pm
Until December 13 A native of Chiang Rai province, Krissadank Intasorn is known best for his previous work in contemporizing the traditional northern Lanna painting style to critique the regimentation of cultural and social conventions within a changing society. His most recent art moves in a new direction, drawing from Asian animation and graphic art styles.
UNDER THE BRIDGE
KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 0 2234 6700 | Tue-Sun 11am-7pm kathmanduphotobkk.com
Until December 26 Photographer Andrew McNeill spent a year engaging with the homeless to produce a series of portraits which are visions of Christian mystics: a Christ-like man with piercing eyes, half-hidden in shadow; a pieta Madonna in her grubby knitted hoodie—the saintly martyrs of old, updated.
PARP-PIM
KALWIT STUDIO & GALLERY 119/14 Ruamrudee Soi 2, Wireless Rd | 0 2254 4629 | Tue-Sun 9am-8pm
Until December 27 A celebration of the medium of print highlighting several techniques, this display of small-scale prints boasts over a hundred works by 56 artists from around the world. Adding to this good introduction to the possibilities of print art, the studio also offers print classes for viewers who wish to further their interest.
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ULTRADISTANCIA
LA LANTA FINE ART 245/14 Soi 31 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2260 5381, 0 2204 0583 | Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun by appointment | lalanta.com |
Until January 7 Based on the capabilities of Google Earth’s satellite camera, “ULTRADISTANCIA” features fifteen unconventional perspectives of our planet. Neighbourhoods, roads, mountains, stations, shipping containers, and houses turn into kaleidoscopic compositions. Enhanced by the digital interplay of colour and luminosity, the series distorts our perception of the Earth’s surface, with common landmarks resembling paintings and topography visualized through a spectrum of colours.
D’UNBREAKABLE TEAPOTS
BANGKOK UNIVERSITY GALLERY (BUG) Bangkok University Gallery Bldg, Kluai Nam Thai campus, Rama IV Rd | 0 2350 3626 | fab.bu.ac.th/buggallery | Tue-Sat 10am-7pm
Until January 16 Surojana Sethabutra is one of the most senior Thai artists attempting to transcend the outmoded perceptions of ceramics as embellished collectibles. Tied to its heritage, ceramic art here has long been preoccupied with traditional concerns over form, colour, and functionality, with little expressive or conceptual experimentation. In what appears as a revisiting of the 1993 exhibition Tea of Equilibrium, Surojana reinterprets teapot forms with personal themes.
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interview
Elephants Have Landed Maitree Siriboon Talks about his Fire Elephant, a Shining Star in the Elephant Parade
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or the first time, the Elephant Parade comes to Bangkok, courtesy of Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas. This acclaimed event, a worldwide philanthropic effort started in 2006, showcases specially designed “herds” of the noble beasts in statue form— eighty-eight of them, all brightly coloured, decorated and hand-painted by artists and celebrities. Rising Thai artist Maitree Siriboon is participating in the parade. In the run-up to the launch, he chats with Bangkok 101 about his involvement in this project and the inspiration that’s elevated him in the eyes of the art world. How did you get involved with the Elephant Parade? Mark Thomson, one of the organizers, contacted me about the project out of the blue. I immediately accepted the invitation to participate in the event. Your elephant is grand and flashy—bright colours, animal print, sparkling silver toenails. What inspired you here? What does the elephant mean? I love the character of the baby elephant itself. I wanted to use bright colours to express its sort of childish appeal. It’s named “Fire Elephant.” The pattern painted on the sculpture tells the story of the forest being infringed upon by the human agricultural lifestyle. That pattern combines with a colour mosaic technique that has been my signature style since university. This baby elephant is “on fire,” or under threat from humans, but it still shares natural beauty with us when we see it. But
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interview
elephants don’t have a voice to express themselves, neither their beauty nor their pain. You’ve said in the past that Silom Soi 4 has influenced you and your work, but you are also drawn to your roots in the countryside. Do those same competing concepts appear here? This was more of a commissioned project, so there’s no link to Silom Soi 4 in it, but the fire elephant does relate to my life in Isaan to a certain extent. My memories of Isaan are slowly being melted away by time, so I can hardly connect with it as much as I could before. I’m a Bangkok citizen now. At the same time, the narrative of rural life in Isaan, seen through the sculpture, is fading away, too. That pose you strike on the elephant—you have used that same pose with water buffaloes in the past. What does the human relationship with animals signify? I struck the same pose on a buffalo in a previous photo series. I actually had a dream I was riding on an elephant. But as a farm boy, maybe it’s better for me to ride a buffalo rather than an elephant. You practice a lot of different media— photography, painting, mosaics, performance. Do you have a favourite at the moment? I rather enjoyed working on one of my recent photographic series, “Save Thai Buffalo.” And in another project, a photo exhibition and installation called “Isan Boy Dream,” I invited young people from Isaan to travel with me to Soi 4, placing bangkok101.com
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them in a foreign context. And then I brought foreigners to my home village, placing them against a village backdrop. That was a great project. Having reached fame in a relatively short period of time, how do you keep yourself grounded and moving forward? It’s easy to get lost in the art world, I think. There are loads of questions I need to ask myself to keep my head in check. So I watch a lot of shows on topics like quantum physics to maintain self-balance. Life isn’t only about art, after all. This helps for now, but I’m not sure how long it’s going to work! Do you see external influences—from Europe, the US, China, etc.—playing a role in the development of the art scene in Thailand? When we talk about development, we’re talking about collectors, as well. I also run a non-profit art gallery called Whitespace Gallery. There, I can see the strong influence of the US and Europe, as well as a little from Singapore. Recently, the French Embassy organized a galleries’ night. All this shows that we [Thailand] still need help from the outside. But we’re influencing the foreign world, too. In fact, there’s a big Thai exhibition called Thai Eye in London. What else are you working on at the moment? I’m preparing a solo show next year and also working on a side project, a dinner and art auction to help bring the Isan Dream project to Hong Kong. DECEMBER 2015 | 75
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MORE ABOUT THE ELEPHANT PARADE The 88 elephants will be on display throughout the city in December and January. Until December 18, the colourful sculptures will be exhibited at Siam Paragon. After that, from December 20 to January 11, they will land at Asiatique. Finally, from January 18 to January 29, the parade will take over Lumpini Park. All told, there are plenty of opportunities to experience this rare exhibition. After being paraded through town, the sculptures will be auctioned off at a special event at The Anantara Siam in February, with proceeds going to The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation. In turn, the foundation will select a range of sustainable programmes that benefit Thai elephants. The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation (GTAEF) was set up in 2006 to improve the plight of the country’s national animal. It has since diversified, incorporating welfare projects with broader philanthropic and cultural objectives. So far 25 elephants—and their entire mahout families—have been rescued from the streets and provided with a place to rest and grow. Mahouts and their wives receive English lessons, and their children are given access to education they have never before had. On top of it all, the GTAEF has helped 76 | DECEM BER 2015
establish a silk worm business from which the families enjoy 100 percent of the profits made from the sales of their wares at the Anantara Golden Triangle. In addition to rescuing elephants off the street, the GTAEF cooperates with the Thai government and other organisations in projects, including the support of research clinics using elephants in therapy sessions for children living with autism and the equipping of the the first elephant hospital in Krabi. The Elephant Parade itself was created after founder Marc Spits and his son Mike visited the Friends of the Asian Elephant hospital in Thailand, which treats sick and injured elephants. There they saw Mosha, a baby elephant who lost a foot at the tender age of seven months old. Mosha was the first elephant to receive a prosthetic limb. She is fitted with a new leg every year and must learn to walk again each time. Mosha wearing her prosthetic leg is always featured in each Elephant Parade. Since the Parade started in 2006 more than 800 artists have participated and over 1000 elephants have been created, each an original piece of art. Supporters of the Elephant Parade include Sir Richard Branson, Goldie Hawn, Khloe Kardashian, Katy Perry, Tommy Hilfiger, Paul Smith, Ricky Gervais, and Prince Henrik of Denmark—to name a few.
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www.facebook.com/safariworld.bangkok bangkok101.com
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cheat notes
THE BOY WITH A BAMBOO HEART
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The ritual of enjoying my morning tea and taking a few moments to reflect on the new day had begun at the Angel Center. It was a luxury for those living well, a pleasure not afforded to those who were struggling to survive. I had reached those ranks,” says Dr Amporn Wathanavongs. At this point in his life, the doctor is a highly successful philanthropist looking back on his career. But he wasn’t always so successful. It’s a miracle he was alive, let alone leading for a living. Unlike most non-profit directors, Dr Amporn knew suffering at its primal roots, experienced tragedy first-hand, survived straits so dire they once forced him into the jungle, a child soldier fighting the French in Indochina. Penned by lawyer-turned-writer Chantal Jauvin, The Boy with a Bamboo Heart tells the true story of a child named Lek, who became the monk Phra Amporn, who disrobed, found Catholicism, and finally evolved into Dr Amporn Wathanavongs. It sounds downright cinematic— and, at times, it is. At five, living without a mother or father, Lek hops aboard a train to Surin, a street urchin forever in search of food, warmth, and compassion. Promised
a life of prosperity, he’s cajoled into the jungle, where he first earns a bayonet, and from it, later, a gun. When the French leave Cambodia, so does he, left to pick up the pieces of a life that had not yet truly begun. In her first published book, Jauvin adopts Dr Amporn’s meditative tone of voice, using spare prose to navigate challenging scenes while nevertheless expressing complex emotions. The action moves quickly, often coming to the precipice of catastrophe, but retreating before the language—and the narrative— take a turn for the worst. The reader is left with gaps between weeks, months, and even years. And still the story never loses its power. In fact, almost astoundingly, it doesn’t even stop when Dr Amporn lifts himself out of poverty. Instead it circles back, exploring the hero as philanthropist, an adult over 50 leading the not-for-profit for which he had worked for over 10 years and then starting his own, FORDEC, in 1998, using the funds he received from his early retirement. From Amporn entering the monastery to the moment he met his wife in a Bangkok slum, from his embrace of a foreign religion and tongue to his heart-wrenching remembrance of his mother’s abbreviated life, the action in The Boy with a Bamboo Heart overflows with the richness and depth of human emotion, much to the credit of Jauvin. It’s a beautiful story, and yet the reader gets the sense that it hasn’t come to a close. Though it ends with an anecdote, the book could just as well have been wrapped up with a photo—one of the doctor, looking forward, eyeing a brighter future for all of Thailand. Dr Amporn still pushes on, helping other street children receive the same opportunities he was seemingly destined to receive himself. And, perhaps, this was his destiny. The Boy with a Bamboo Heart is available at Asia Books, priced at B425. It can be ordered online from Kinokuniya for B462.
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art & culture photofeature
Legacy in the Lens LOOKING BACK ON THE LIFE AND WORK OF
S U RAT OSAT HAN U GR AH
“Surat Osathanugrah was entrusted with many things by his father. One was a company that he transformed into a major pharmaceutical empire. Another was a Kodak camera given to him at the age of 10—[one] that he used to transform a boyhood curiosity into a photographic talent and secure his future as one of Thailand’s foremost shutterbugs.” – Bangkok 101, December 2005 A little over 10 years ago, Surat Osathanugrah sent a series of stunning black-and-white photos to an old teakwood home on Soi Langsuan, a former ambassador’s residence that was now the headquarters of a burgeoning Bangkok 101. His collection “Water Ways,” which graced the pages of the first edition of the magazine, examined life along the khlongs. In the still laughter of children riding in a ramshackle boat, the wizened grin of an old woman washing her studded silver bowl, and the eyes of a young girl rising out of the water like a crocodile on the hunt, the remarkable photographer searched for his own past. It was a personal journey away from the towering totems of modern nobility and into memories of a childhood spent splashing around in the canals. Khun Surat was no ordinary street photographer. Founder of Bangkok University, former president of the Royal Photographic Society of Thailand, chairman of OSOTSPA, and minister of various government agencies, he got a relatively late start in the field. Credit that to decades devoted to carrying on his father’s legacy and laying a foundation for success for his children. Though it may have taken 70 years for him to first share his work with the public, once he embarked on a career in the arts, he rose to great heights. “Water Ways” set a benchmark for all future photo features in Bangkok 101. Khun Surat’s shots were endowed with the human element, succeeding in ways that many do not—by effecting an immediate and personal reaction from the audience. In fact, those who have visited the new headquarters of Bangkok 101, down a tapering soi in the quiet recesses of a rapidly transforming Sathorn district, will doubtless recall the massive black-and-white print of an exuberant group of boys in underwear, each preparing to leap, spread-eagle, from a concrete block into a quiet canal—one of the most fun images from “Water Ways,” and also the first cover shot of the magazine. It’s only fitting that the photo feature in this issue, celebrating 10 years of accomplishments in print, honours the life and work of Surat Osathanugrah, who passed away in 2008. Khun Surat lives on as one of Thailand’s greatest street photographers. His award-winning shots reached far across the globe, and now they return to the pages of Bangkok 101, the magazine they helped set in motion. Special thanks to Bangkok University and OSOTSPA for going to great lengths to provide the following images from Surat Osathanugrah’s “Vanishing Bangkok,” “Yin Yang,” and “Water Ways.”
RED VELVET SPELL OVER CHARMING FISH AT OSHA, SEE P104
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bangkok101.com
AROY COMFY ON CHRISTMAS EVE
The cosiest gallery-café in town, CHOMP, is putting together a comfy little five-course dinner this Christmas Eve. While visions of sugar plums—or possibly just sweater weather—dance in your head, enjoy a feast of roasted pumpkin and sweet potato soup with a Vivin goat cheese herb drizzle, followed by salmon pâté, roasted stuffed turkey with all the trimmings, a cheese platter, and mince pie with custard or vegan cream and cinnamon Irish coffee for dessert. All courses come in equally delicious-sounding vegan versions, and the mood will be set to festive with live music as well as a welcome drink of homemade mulled wine. Reservations can be made for 6pm, 8pm, or 10pm, and seats are B850 per person (B350 for kids). Spaces are limited. Call 0 2629 2026 for more details.
FIGHT FOOD WASTE
On December 3, a global food initiative arrives in Bangkok, uniting culinary stars and key policymakers for a good cause. Think.Eat.Save, running from noon to 2pm at Parc Paragon, brings together Chefs Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones of Bo.lan with a team of chefs from Nahm, including Chris Miller. With support from food rescue organization OzHarvest, the chefs will join with UN delegates and policymakers to raise awareness of the perils of food waste by serving free meals to 2030 people, using saved ingredients otherwise destined for the landfill. Think.Eat.Save is a reminder that 1.3 billion tonnes of food is wasted globally each year, contributing greatly climate change. For information about the organizations, as well as the event, visit thinkeatsave.org.
FATHER’S DAY & LA VEILLE DE NOEL
J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain serves up two spectacular ways to celebrate December’s holidays. First, for Father’s Day on December 5—also the restaurant’s one-year anniversary—enjoy a five-course set lunch crafted by Lorain for B2299 per person, from noon until 3pm. Then, on Christmas, return for an immaculate five-course lunch (B2799) or sevencourse dinner (B3399, and includes a glass of sparkling wine) which features dishes like Maine lobster, venison fillet, and pan-seared scallops served with “cul noir” pork ravioli and truffles. To reserve a seat, call 0 2119 4899.
CHAMPAGNE & CURRY WURST
Every Thursday throughout December, from 6pm-10pm, sink your teeth into honest-to-goodness homemade hot dogs at Latitude 13 at Le Méridien Bangkok, washing them down a variety of bubbly drinks, including champagne, sparkling wine, and beer. The hot dogs are made in-house by Chef Markus Rotard, and flavours run the gamut from honey-roasted to parmesan-garlic to spicy curry wurst. Also enjoy a few two-hour-long free flow drinks and curry wurst combinations: curry wurst and beer (B499++), curry wurst and Chandon Brut (B1199++), and curry wurst and Möet Chandon Brut (B2999++). For more information, call 0 2232 8888 or email fbadmin.lmbkk@lemeridien.com.
HOLIDAY HAMPERS
This December, if shopping for food lovers, pick up a hamper of gourmet products from Vivin—foie gras, caviar, champagne, cheese, spices, and more—for the perfect Christmas or New Year’s gift. The hampers range from basic to extravagant (starting at B3000), and they’re customizable, as well. Each arrives in a hand-woven basket adorned with Thai silk. To place an order, go to vivinmaison.com. And be sure to visit the new Vivin shop in Central Chidlom’s Food Hall. bangkok101.com
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meal deals
POOLSIDE DINING CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRALWORLD 999/99 Rama 1 Road | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com Indulge by the poolside with options of pasta, sandwiches, sushi, soups, salads, Thai dishes, and mouth-watering desserts at Urban Oasis. Seafood lovers will enjoy the “Fisherman’s Basket,” which includes such premium seafood as grilled river and tiger prawns, sea bass, Phuket lobster, and fresh squid, all served with a chilled bottle of white wine, priced at B1690++.
SCALINI’S VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS HILTON SUKHUMVIT BANGKOK 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24, Sukhumvit Road | 0 2620 6666 | sukhumvitbangkok.hilton.com From December 21 to January 10, Scalini invites you to celebrate the festive season with a set menu featuring traditional Christmas dishes. Chef Egidio and his amazing Scalini team present a choice of three set menus: three-course (B1500++), five-course (B2100++), and seven-course (B2800++). Each is sure to make the end of the year a memorable—and tasty—experience.
RUSH TO THE RIVER ANANTARA RIVERSIDE BANGKOK RESORT 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Road | 0 2476 0022 | bangkok-riverside.anantara.com During the “River on a Plate” Dining Festival, from December 4-13, Trader Vic’s, the famous Polynesian-inspired restaurant, is offering two delectable tasting menus by Chef Thanavoot Srilardlao—Bergeron’s Original Pupu Platter and Barbecued Saint Louis Spareribs. Each is priced at B1888 for two persons and comes with a complimentary bottle of Canepa Classico Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 or Canepa Classico Chardonnay 2015.
LUSCIOUS LAMB BRASSERIE 9 Asiatique The Riverfront, Warehouse 9 | 0 2108 4288 | brasserie9.com Brasserie 9, located in the lovely riverside Asiatique, presents a special festive menu this December, priced at B880. Enjoy a classic rack of lamb finished with an herb crust and Bordeaux sauce, paired with a ratatouille from Provence, from 3pm-12am every day.
A BEAUTIFUL, BRINY BUFFET PATHUMWAN PRINCESS HOTEL 444 MBK Center, Phayathai Road | 0 2216 3700 | pprincess.com Throughout December, the CiTi Bistro on the ground floor of Pathumwan Princess Hotel unveils a Thai seafood and BBQ buffet featuring fresh underwater delights. From 6pm–10pm each day, dive in to tasty shellfish, sushi, and sashimi, as well as a treasure trove of other sumptuous dishes. The seafood buffet is priced at B1190 per adult and B595 for children under 12 years.
GRAB THAT ALASKAN CRAB CENTARA WATERGATE PAVILLION HOTEL BANGKOK 567 Rachaprarop Road | 0 2625 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com Under the city sky each night throughout festive season, Chili Hip offers guests special menus, stoking a mood to match the views. Indulge in a selection of dishes, from premium Alaskan crab to fresh tuna cooked Western-style. Menu highlights include avocado salad with Alaskan crab and tuna, coconut milk and lime glazed Alaskan crab with a sweet and spicy herb crust, and squid ink spaghetti with crab meat. Prices start from B270++. 90 | DECEMBER 2015
bangkok101.com
FIRST COURSE FROM THE FOOD GUY A decade ago, when I first moved to Bangkok, I wouldn’t have been able to hack this job. Back then, this was already one of the best cities for eating in the world, but it wasn’t what it has now become: one of the best cities for eating all of the world. Like it was in many other Asian capitals, so-called fine dining, Western-style, was mostly limited to over-priced and over-pretentious hotel outlets obliged to provide for business clientele. Of course, Thais, with their natural feelings for food cultures, their skill at making even the most plebeian dish look festive, had already figured out that green curry was fine on spaghetti or that they could make their small-time cafés more attractive by putting out some of the world’s best cornflake cookies. Not exactly what one expected to find in exotic Siam. But aside from a few gems in the Japanese and Arab enclaves of Sukhumvit, perhaps the Greyhound Café and other department store fixtures, a retro American lunch counter or two (see Foodland), and some of the world’s grittiest, gnarliest dim sum in Chinatown, it was all local, all tried-and-true. Pad Thai or the highway. I couldn’t imagine then that I would be planning an on-going series of round-ups focused on the numerous choices currently available within a single cuisine (keep your eyes peeled, because those are coming to this space soon). North Indian? Southern Chinese? EastWest brunches? Why not? I remember welcoming with some astonishment the first culinary representatives of Mexico, a country I’ve long felt was separatedat-birth from Thailand, the two sharing a general level of economic development, similarities in ethnic appearance, a strange mix of intense religiosity and random violence, and above all a love for the chilli— even sprinkled on fruit. But now there are numerous ways to explore the Tex-Mex, the Cal-Mex, AustralianMex, the taquería, and even the Mex-Mex in the city.
What’s to come? I wouldn’t mind seeing a few Scandinavian smorgasbords (cold open-face sandwiches being well-suited to the tropics), some truly high-end representatives of Turkish cooking to take us well beyond the kebab, or more regional Chinese fare— Northern or Western, Sichuan, and Muslim, the kind currently consigned only to some grotty dumpling houses around Silom—that is missing in much of Southeast Asia, overshadowed by the dominant diaspora of the Hokkien and Teochew. Yet while in some Asian capitals Western cuisines are soulless exercises in snobbery, here it seems even the most innovatively expensive and Wagyu/truffle/ lobster-driven places have captured the spirit of Thai playfulness. And this has been aided by the recent and rapid appearance of a new generation of gourmet suppliers around the country, providing everything from fresh-made burrata cheese to organic rocket to lovingly distilled rums and lemongrass-informed gin. Even the big hotels have joined the mad stampede toward authenticity and sustainability. Though Bangkok can’t quite compete with Tokyo— where an estimated 5000 Italian outlets are run with the assiduousness of that certain kind of Japanese who devote their lifetimes to adapting and imitating one regional style, like Lucchese or Abruzzese—this month’s issue features just a few of the multitude of representatives of the world’s favourite nation for eating, Italy. With restaurants specializing in Roman or Milanese, Bangkok has gone way beyond the usual spaghetti and meatballs. Now joining the “taste of home”-hungry expat crowds, a better-travelled, higherspending, and more open-minded Thai middle class is demanding the best and getting it. The rest of us should enjoy going along for the ride. JOHN KRICH
BANGKOK 101 Food Editor John Krich has just returned from Kuala Lumpur for his second stint in Bangkok. Previously the chief food columnist and feature writer on travel, arts, and sports for the Asian Wall St. Journal, John is a native New Yorker who has authored nine books, including the classic on Asian travel Music in Every Room: Around the World in a Bad Mood, Won Ton Lust: Adventures in Search of the World’s Best Chinese Restaurant, the PEN/Hemingway Award-winning novel, A Totally Free Man, and the recent A Fork in Asia’s Road, a collection of his best food pieces. He has been a frequent contributor to major publications like TIME/Asia, Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic Traveler, The New York Times, and San Francisco Examiner. bangkok101.com
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HOT PLATES OF 2015 What a year! Hundreds of other hole-in-the-walls, Francophied mall sandwich shops, illustrious imports (Tim Ho Wan, Hong Kong’s top dim sum place comes to mind), hopeful start-ups, pop-ups, and food trucks have influenced the shifting landscape of food in Bangkok. As for fine dining—or, rather, the more formal restaurant scene—2015 has been remarkable, as well, with the pinnacle perhaps being Gaggan’s ascension to Asia’s best restaurant, according to the awards in Singapore organized by S.Pellegrino. But Chef Gaggan Anand wasn’t the only restaurateur doing great things this year. Bangkok has fast become a diverse, world-class restaurant city. With thousands of outlets to try, and but a few digestive tracts to cover them all, Bangkok 101’s admiring critics and critical admirers have highlighted, with a little help of buzz amongst foodie friends, five exciting additions to the scene in the following pages:
QUINCE—Reborn with a whimsical chef who does incredible brunches and simply puts out—without fuss or much saucing—some of the purest flavours plucked from all over the planet.
PASTE AT GAYSORN—As modern as it is ancient, as cutting-
edge as it is historical, as multi-layered as it is comforting, here is a husband-wife team’s amazing take on Thai.
THE HOUSE ON SATHORN—Outstanding ingredients presented with flair in a personal narrative of a worldwide culinary search, all in a setting that doesn’t have to use false décor touches to exude elegance.
J’AIME—Well-known for comfort food styled for the modern age by culinary maestro Jean-Michel Lorain, this bastion of contemporary French cuisine is also serving a stellar brunch.
SEED—The casual, rustic, and decidedly health-oriented new creation of the Water Library group, planted with care to yield an ample harvest.
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feature
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One of the top new experiences this year—the tender young 10-course dinner paired with exclusive beers at Upstairs at Mikkeller—gets full coverage as our Hot Plate on pages 18-19. We also take you “In The Kitchen” to glimpse some of the inner workings of an older strong entry with staying power: the when-in-Bangkok, eat-as-a-Roman APPIA.
10 MORE Among the dozens of other stand-outs winning buzz, here are ten new outlets—or older outlets doing new things— worthy not merely of honourable mentions, but also sustained samplings:
ERR—Gourmet Thai bar snacks by Bo.lan in a fun funky setting
M KRUB BY CHEF MAN—The highest of exquisitely
high-end Sino-French by a local master strutting his stuff (look for a proper review in the near future)
KOM-BA-WA—Say “Good Evening” to astounding “Japaniste” creations with fish flown in from Tokyo
SAVELBERG—Amodernist Dutch master quietly churning out Michelin-starred Euro-kaiseki miniatures
LENZI—Cut through the fancy dishes to amazing cold cuts imported from family butchers in Tuscany
THE SMOKIN’ PUG—Doing brisk business with brisket, the best new addition to real American barbecue lands smack in the middle of Patpong
LA MONITA URBAN CANTINA—This more upscale outlet of an authentic taquería goes far to prove that Mexican can be more than enchiladas
OSITO—A German chef doing Spanish tapas and New York pastrami and making it cool—where else but in Bangkok?
SEVEN SPOONS—A second simpler representative of Spanish flair serving the small enclave where Chinatown turns artsy
THE GIRL AND THE PIG—A modest café/bistro that does just about everything right, from pasta to waffles
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QUINCE - A Satisfying Slice for the Runcible Spoon Already a staple of the upper Sukhumvit scene, known for its solid Western cooking and ample rooms made cosy by a quirky mix of good-timey antiques, Quince was reborn in 2015 under the new management of New Zealand Chef Cameron Barker. Belying arms covered with Maori-style tattoos and tribalized disks in his ear, Barker is a gentle soul and new-age family man with an especially gentle touch with salads and mains, a modern-day hunter-gatherer of the freshest and most surprising proteins and more from around the planet—mainly, and unapologetically, from Europe, as featured on special themed menus (Portuguese, for instance, as he even makes his own salted cod) well worth watching for. His most recent special of the day was a tender hunk of wild boar accompanied by home-cured red cabbage. Thankfully, this simultaneously respectful and wide-ranging chef is only slightly wild and not a bit of a bore. The word “eclectic” is an understatement when it comes to the new Quince. Health conscious? Here’s an avocado sandwich with kale pesto (B190). Ravenous? The popular Hanger Steak should satisfy that savage appetite (B750). From scallops to smoked eggplant to spaghetti with fresh sardine bits (B390), every item is left to shine, as un-sauced and non-gimmicky as possible. The approach is the very opposite of Chef Cameron’s look: resolutely un-trendy. But that doesn’t mean it lacks for imagination. 94 | DECEMBER 2015
Top it all off with “home churned” ice creams in understated yet stunning combos, like fig with more than a hint of Madeira (two scoops for a reasonable B260). And all this is with Barker still feeling his way and imposing his will on the menu, his tribal tendencies tamed by one of Bangkok’s most varied brunches, built around “Hill Tribe Eggs” combined with such items as lamb merguez, quinoa, and chilli butter. With crowds lining up at to get into the hot club Sing Sing Theatre just behind Quince’s main entrance, the restaurant may be reborn in other ways. Thinking further out of the box, Cameron Barker is researching how to set up an adjunct stand satisfying pre-dancing, post-drinking cravings with Bangkok’s most authentic Sichuan-spiced noodles. What if, much like taking out a policy against plane crashes or medical mishaps, you could take out restaurant insurance against a bad meal, disappointing service, or dispiriting atmosphere? A prudent investment before many a night out, no such precaution need be taken here. Love it or merely like it, Quince is the sort of place where it’s hard to imagine much going wrong.
QUINCE Sukhumvit Soi 45 | 0 2662 4478 quincebangkok.com | daily 11.30am-late
bangkok101.com
review
FOOD & DRIN K
PASTE - The Palace of Culinary Wisdom He’s an ebullient Aussie who has devoted his considerable culinary aplomb to uncovering the most essential flavours of Thai cuisine for over a decade. He has poured one-of-a-kind research and resources within the community of the former royal court consorts to revive a showy lineage of historical showpieces on a plate. He is a brash outsider who swears that the quest for profits will never compromise showcasing his culinary brilliance or his loyalty to reinterpreting the past in most daringly modern ways. No, his name is not David Thompson. It’s Jason Bailey. And his restaurant isn’t Nahm, but, just to keep it as singularly monosyllabic, Paste. How to properly taste Paste? Let me count the ways. Claimed as one of the creations served “at the inauguration of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha” in 1809, frozen scoops of watermelon are bathed in shallots and coconut for a superbly refreshing Thai salad, to which the audacious chef has added a topping of salmon eggs (B350). In Bailey’s hands, tom yam becomes a subtly smoky and not the slightest bit too tangy soup, informed with jack fruit seeds and homemade chicken broth, floated with single bites of crunchy pork instead of the sad standard of soggy and pedestrian shrimp (B390). Numerous rare herbs like pennywort and sea asparagus give a new twist to curries, like one built around blue sea crab (B850). And when he goes back to his Aussie roots bangkok101.com
with a hunk of beef tenderloin al sangre, it’s dressed with a tangy fruit nahm jim blended from galangal and “hairy eggplant” (B950). This much innovation could be too much, but it’s still balanced with a respect for timehonoured combinations—not to mention a sharp eye for aesthetic presentation. All of this is not just the result of brash experimentation. Teamed with his wife and fellow chef Bongkoch “Bee” Santongun, Jason was cooking and learning in Thailand for a dozen years before opening the first branch of Paste on Sukhumvit 49. And he insists any “modern” interpretation of Thai cooking must improve the quality of ingredients while still drawing upon a vast archive of wellresearched recipes, often originating at the Royal court. With its second, showier branch ensconced at the back of the top floor of the high-end Gaysorn, Paste’s atmosphere is blissfully palace-like: un-crowded, hushhush, and purposely hard-to-find exclusive. For those who make the effort, and are willing to shell out for somewhat higher prices, it’s a form of time travel via the tongue that’s not the least bit hard to digest.
PASTE Fl 3, Gaysorn Shopping Centre | 0 2656 1003 paste-gaysorn.com | daily noon-2pm, 6.30pm-10pm
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THE HOUSE ON SATHORN - Dinner Diplomacy It’s not diplomats or even jet pilots or who are today’s most internationalized humans. It’s chefs who move most readily between kitchen assignments and seem best positioned to draw upon virtually all realms and cultures. At times, it looks like they’ve got the entire planet on their cutting boards. No wonder we love these masters of cuisine, who bring the world to a boil in a far more palatable way than our politics, helping us devour all the best of man and nature. Probably the most exciting cooking migrant to make his serendipitous way to Thailand in 2015, Fatih Tatuk is one such culinary ambassador, who has most aptly been put in charge of The Dining Room at the House at Sathorn, a showpiece of the new W Hotel Bangkok set within the 126-year-old former Russian Embassy. “My menu is my life,” states this well-travelled 26-year-old, who tries through plated creations to sum up a culinary quest that has already taken him from his native Turkey to apprenticing at Copenhagen’s famed Noma to eight years in Asia, including a stint in the “real Chinese” coastal town of Qingdao. To honour the history around him, Chef Fatih draws on his own with a menu so assertively personal that each of the luxurious yet disciplined dishes bears the name of a memory that inspires it. With the help of a supercharged crew who apply flame and spices from 96 | DECEMBER 2015
behind an open bar counter, diners can experience Early Morning at Tsukiji Market (B625), one of several homages to Japanese seafood. This tribute continues with Lost In Translation at Shinjuku, a dish of grilled salsify root beside a succulent hunk of fish topped with sea urchin sauce. Or maybe you want to go “Hunting” and haul in a tender slice of duck dotted with blood-red Sichuan peppers and charcoal blast powder—an ominous, though delicious, sight (B790). Built around the juiciest lamb this side of the Caucasus, the chef also delivers a taste of Turkey with Once Upon a Time in Istanbul (B890). Other plates seem more like experiments in progress: Indian cauliflower that’s lovely but not so original, “no dough” ravioli where slivers of scallops encase truly intense truffles. Chef Fatih is happy for feedback. While showing he can go molecular, he never forgets full flavours or his clientele. And where else but such uniquely elegant surroundings could one savour such a nowhere-else-onearth finisher as seaweed macaroons with black sesame cream? This “House” plays host to the planet.
THE DINING ROOM AT THE HOUSE ON SATHORN 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 | thehouseonsathorn.com daily lunch noon-2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10.30pm
bangkok101.com
ENOTECA INIMITABLE ITALIAN
the only real italian gourmet restaurant Historic Italian Family Italian Chef de Cuisine from a Michelin-starred restaurant Italian Sommelier Our philosophy: slow food = sweet life
Sukhumvit Soi 27, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok I T. 02 258 4386 I F. 02259 9175
www.enotecabangkok.com
EnotecaBangkok
FOOD & DRIN K
review
SEED - A Natural for Bangkok A seed doesn’t just conjure up green dreams of pure vegetal bliss. A seed implies a beginning, the core of something new, a harbinger of eating trends to come. Just two-months-old, Seed is the latest creation of the Water Library group, planted and tended to by veteran Singaporean chef Haikal Johari. It’s a refreshing new attempt at a kind of restaurant that Bangkok needs and should become a natural. Seed’s whole thrust is toward the homey, the healthy, the rustic, the casual, and the reasonably priced. It’s designed to be the kind of place where patrons feel instantly at home—a large unfinished space full of exposed brick, exposed bulbs at the end of twisting, thick rope, and rows of glass jars full of inviting staples and grains. And given that Seed is located along Sukhumvit 39 on the fringes of Thong Lo and some of Bangkok’s most exclusive expat havens, its as yet very small menu—soon to be amplified by a special chef-selected four-course menu at B1900—is designed to be both accessible and affordable. In fact, it’s being billed as a “neighbourhood restaurant,” beckoning regulars from wherever, although not whenever, as right now it is only open for dinner, from 5:30pm until midnight at this point. The place even boasts decent wines by the glass starting at B189. The eager crew, at work in the open kitchen behind walls of windows, all sport bright yellow caps and t-shirts 98 | DECEMBER 2015
printed with the words: “Culinary Badass.” The proof of that comes in the form of a properly slow-cooked duck confit, ample and not too soggy, served with a grilled stalk of fennel (B590); a signature tartare of lamb informed by a smear of homemade, herbed mayonnaise (B390); and amazing desserts, like a mock shortcake that combines homemade strawberry sorbet with rose-flavoured custard and even frozen rose tuile (B250). Better save room for the spinach tortellini in brown butter (only B390) or the white asparagus topped with manchego cheese, too. No wonder the friendly cooks like to personally bear forth and introduce their handiwork—the service, sometimes haphazard in Thailand, is on the contrary utterly scrupulous here. You can get your burger, steak, or salmon here, but Seed’s full flowering comes in the form of delightful veg treats, like delicate and clearly fresh-picked heirloom carrots of differing hues, combined with Japanese root vegetables and cleverly bathed in the perfectly tangy compliment of Moroccan ras el hanout. Stayed tuned to see just how high and far this Seed grows.
SEED 104 Sukhumvit 39 | 09 9283 6363 acebook.com/seedbangkok | Tues-Sun 5.30pm-midnight
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NEWLY OPEN Sukhumvit Soi 20 Mille Malle@Millennium Residence Sukhumvit Tel: 02 663 4988
www.galleriamilanorestaurant.com
WINE connection
7 ELEVEN 7 ELEVEN
MAXVALU
SUKHUMVIT ROAD
Sukhumvit Soi 18
Sukhumvit Soi 22
Holiday Inn
Sukhumvit Soi 22
RAMA IV ROAD
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review
J’AIME - Bangkok’s Best New Brunch Sunshine filters through tall windows, bouncing off a silver tower stacked with Lyon charcuterie, animating an empire of crystal, white linen, and royal purple pillows. Skillets sizzle in the open kitchen, building to a crescendo with the ambient music of Chopin. Brut bubbles pop as they hit fluted glass. Well-dressed waiters paw across the carpet. Here, at J’AIME, Sunday morning’s edge softens and comfort assumes an understated elegance. And all this before the show even starts. J’AIME wasn’t designed to be a brunch spot, not with the culinary pedigree of its founding family. No, this was to be a nightly destination of degustation menus, wine pairings, and artificial illumination. Yet, within a year, the restaurant unveiled a Sunday brunch of unrivalled rank (B2999 for food only/B3999 with free-flow Chandon). Maybe innovative French dinner menus weren’t the only tricks up Jean-Michel Lorain’s Michelin-starred sleeves. Even the best brunches in Bangkok tend to follow a base recipe: cooking stations or pre-made buffets with prices made palatable by the promise of free-flow booze. Looking outside the box, J’AIME has transferred its penchant for fine dining to leisurely weekend feasts. Dishes are cooked to order and served fresh. Champagne is refilled eagerly. Everything about it is measured and meticulous—it doesn’t even start until noon. The aforementioned charcuterie arrives on a twisted 100 | DECEMBER 2015
metal tower, presenting small bites of family recipes, including Michel Augier’s saucisson de lyon and JeanMichel Lorain’s quail and foie gras tourte. The delicatessen then cedes space to a rather exciting selection of seafood. The buffet eschewed, diners instead get endless orders of whatever catches their eye. Try a briny panna cotta with tempura oysters, served with confit of shallot and marinated cucumbers, a springboard to the grandiose gratinated Alaskan king crab. Then go back for more. But save space for à la carte options. A couple of star dinnertime dishes grace the onepage menu, one of the most outstanding being crispy pork belly served with velvety pumpkin purée and sweet and sour sauce. And the fowl—stuffed sous-vide quail with braised garden vegetables and jus brun with tomato water gastrique—is just as good. 64°C egg with lentil salad and cream, served with parsley spume, wins points for creativity, which, of course, is J’AIME’s strongest selling point. This is classic French food given a decidedly modern interpretation, home recipes turned works of art— and, thankfully, now it’s available on slow Sundays.
J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN U Sathorn Bangkok, 105 Ngam Duphli Alley | 0 2119 4899 jaime-bangkok.com | daily noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm
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review
OSHA - Importing a Familiar Export You might think that a group of Thai restaurants founded and conceived in San Francisco might be a bit cautious and shy about finally bringing its unique culinary brand of 17 years back to the motherland. But not Osha, whose aim is nothing less than to become the mother of all modern ways to Thai one on. Not the least bit bashful, Osha is a place that brashly goes big. Big décor: circular sweeps of gold leaf, purple back lights, Moet and Chandon magnums in rows, sparkling chandeliers. Big dishes: like its signature “Volcanic Beef,” a cast-iron cauldron of a stew informed with fresh pepper buds, sake, basil, and a raw egg yolk (B950). Big flavours: nouvelle experimentation, like a poached oyster topped with kaffir lime foam that magically captures every gradation of Thai chilli between the bubbles, a green chilli sorbet, and a granita of foie gras granules tossed into a pumpkin sauce (B650). Big innovations: like the recent addition of a special Floral Set (B2200) utilizing edible flowers in every dish, with names like “Pure Botanic Sweet Kiss” and “Triple Senses of Deep Blue Marine” as personally cooked up by their playful new head chef, who is fresh off a competition in “Thai Iron Chef.” Terming itself “molecular,” the menu here is still varied enough to rely on such enjoyable aids as the liberal use of Chinese-style salted egg coatings. And for those who 102 | DECEMBER 2015
don’t want to dip into uncharted territory, Osha isn’t above a high-end pad thai informed with crunchy pork rinds or mackerel with accompanying shrimp paste (B450). Osha’s over-the-top expansiveness even extends to a wide choices of rice, from brown to butterfly pea blue, organic and smoked, or just plain white jasmine. Backed by prominent owner Dr Wutthisak and inspired by an enthusiastic creative team, Osha’s ample, two-story space on the corner of Wireless and Ruamrudee, with outdoor terrace included, is just the first splashy beach head in a planned culinary invasion. So naturally they’ve employed their full artillery of temptations, combining the best of romantic atmosphere and uncompromisingly Thai ingredients with a touch of American “bombs bursting in air.” Eating at Osha is a special occasion and after-dinner show in itself, with plenty of smoke and liquid nitrogen— even the generous fruit plate that closes most meals is served caveman-style in a hollow stone from which wafts an icy steam that floods the entire table. Osha is a newcomer that overflows with ideas and potential.
OSHA THAI RESTAURANT AND BAR 99 Wireless Rd | 0 2 256 6555 oshabangkok.com
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review
ANTONIO’S - The 12-Year Italian Experience “Antonio’s was born on January 15, 2004,” says Antonio “Tony” Armenio of his long-standing restaurant, speaking with the soft-spoken pride and filial affection only a parent can truly express. “It’s my baby.” This is by no means a slight against his human children, whom he loves dearly. It’s just that Antonio’s, one of the city’s warmest Italian institutions and something of a mentor for up-and-coming venues, is for Tony less a place of work than a part of the family. Each night, guests shuffle into a renovated home of parquet floors, delicate lighting, and intimate service on Sukhumvit 31. Just about every table will meet the impresario himself—Tony likes to get to know his guests so that, when they return, whether it’s one week or five years later, together they can catch up lost time. And while a casual-professional mood set by conversation and handshakes has contributed to the stream of repeat visitors, food is the element that has really kept Antonio’s on the tips of tongues for the past 12 years. “My menu is my bible. I never change it,” says Tony, admitting, “except for the specials.” The Australian-born Italian believes everyone in Bangkok has a handful of restaurants in their heads at all times, going to the well when they get a craving for a specific cuisine or dish—the ramen here, the tom yam there. And so he offers an everchanging selection of fresh seafood and meat specialties, 104 | DECEMBER 2015
first shown to each table in the raw, but keeps the core of his heavily Pugliese menu the same. The dish that most remember Antonio’s for is its award-winning ravioli stuffed with porcinis and dressed copiously in black truffle cream sauce (B690). While this sinful staple merits all the applause it has received, it marks anything but an endpoint. Australian avocado baked with prawn and topped with mozzarella and aged parmesan (price depends on season) represents Antonio’s creative side; the sweet prawn strikes such a perfect balance with the sharp, salty cheese and silken avocado that it’s a surprise the restaurant is known for the ravioli instead of this dish. Or the white asparagus wrapped lightly in Parma ham and held in place by a sea of gorgonzola cream sauce (B490), which can—and should—be mopped up with Antonio’s fresh-baked bread. Or, perhaps, the 500-day grain fed Tajima tenderloin (B1750), served with red wine gravy, that the steak knife cuts like butter. While family might drive Antonio’s Italian experience, a table full of fine-tuned dishes defines it.
ANTONIO’S 26 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2662 1001 antoniosbkk.com | daily 6pm-11pm
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review
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GIORGIO’S - Homestyle-dining à la Italiana Outside, red and blue neon achieve a smooth blend on the river’s black canvas like fast-setting acrylics. Down the water, boats bark dance music from stem to stern while human activity rustles on the banks. Ship to shore, as it were. Inside, at Giorgio’s, the setting can’t be any different. Walls of glass separate the lively creature of the night from smooth bossa nova, amber candlelight, and the slow burning romance that precedes a taste of the Italian home with the privacy of a table for two. Giorgio’s recently revamped à la carte menu features cuts of homemade Italian classics, many of which represent the North—ossobuco, risotto, well-prepared meat. The choices counter a previously introduced buffet, adding a more formal touch to its riverside dinners. They have helped Giorgio’s evolve into a kind of destination dining experience, a place to go to escape the Sukhumvit bubble. Insalata di spinaci, a simple salad of baby spinach with poached figs, walnuts, and blue cheese-Gorgonzola dressing, outperforms its potentially perfunctory role as a palate warmer (B350). The sweet-savoury punch of figs poached with cinnamon meets cubes of sharp cheese and the very welcome crunch of walnuts. Once the plate is clean, the logical next step leads to zuppe. With limited options, the porcini cream soup is a wise choice (B280). Though it could use some salt to build depth, the bangkok101.com
earthiness of the mushrooms still shines, and the bridge to entrées is complete. Black cod, served amid criss-crossed asparagus atop a brilliant green sauce and foam-covered clams (B620), gets remarkable treatment here. Despite the striking presentation, it remains a simple—and accessible—selection. The cod is butter-like in texture and just barely briny, its delicate flavour the model match of fresh clams. Reigning supreme, though, is the carne. A rosemary-speckled beef fillet, cooked medium-rare and paired with wilted spinach and pan-fried potato gnocchi (B850), is so tender that a knife neatly slides into it, allowing for easy and equal division between partners, who will want to savour and share the immaculate cut of meat before it’s all gobbled up. Giorgio’s doesn’t lay it on thick. It’s quiet, spacious, and predominantly an inside affair, although al fresco dining is available, a nice change of pace in the winter months. Regardless, the energy level stays firmly on low and relaxed. This is a good thing. Food claims attention, not action or accessories. In providing a taste of home, Giorgio’s has successfully embraced the comfort of home, too.
GIORGIO’S Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotels & Towers, 2 Charoen Krung Rd Soi 30 | 0 2266 9214 | giorgiosbangkok.com | daily 6pm-10.30pm
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feature
SO FESTIVE - Celebrate the Holidays in Golden Style Something about Park Society at Sofitel So makes it feel like a well-kept secret. Maybe it’s the discreet service, or the sophisticated décor separating tables, giving each an element of intimacy. But more than anything it’s the food—Chef Paul Smart whips up plate after plate of imaginative cuisine that’s so good you want to keep it to yourself. This festive season, as part of the So Festive programme, the chef gets to stretch his legs, but you won’t be the only one enjoying his dishes. So Festive celebrates the holidays with the kind of cool gastronomic flair that Sofitel So is known for—a total of 13 meals between Christmas Eve, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day, all with a “gold-licious” theme, spread across Red Oven, Park Society, The Water Club, and Hi-So Rooftop Bar. A Christmas Eve buffet or five-course dinner. The same options on Christmas day, plus a buffet lunch. Countdown parties on New Year’s Eve. A New Year’s Day brunch, catering to the happy, hungry, and hung-over. In other words, there are a lot of opportunities to celebrate. An immaculate six-course dinner on New Year’s Eve (B9500++/B13000++ with wine) at Park Society stands out among the meals and events this month. This is where Chef Smart shines. Following an amuse-bouche of tangy crab mousse, he presents a deconstructed lobster salad on a bed of heirloom tomatoes, dressed in 106 | DECEMBER 2015
truffle vinaigrette. The buttery shellfish segues to pumpkin agnolotti with white wine foam and mustard leaves, something of a spin on squash ravioli with fried sage. Regardless of inspiration, the pasta hits the spot. A palate cleanser with a unique ingredient—Pop Rocks—sets up the latter stages, which begin with foie gras on gingerbread crumbles with pink peppercorn meringue and sweet Pedro Ximénez syrup. That’s followed by show-stopping Miyazaki wagyu tenderloin, which is surrounded by tender braised vegetables, topped with morel mushrooms, and matched with a purée of Jerusalem artichokes and truffles. A fitting cap to the meal is a champagne volcano, a science project in chic culinary form with the bubbly spouting out of a chocolate cone as if it were ringing in the New Year in miniature scale. All the dishes are elevated by Chef Smart’s intelligent presentation, not to mention the atmospheric setting of Park Society, the perfect place to bid farewell to 2015. For the full line-up of meals and events going on during So Festive, including prices, times, and venues, visit bangkok101.com/restaurants.
SO FESTIVE Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Nuea Rd | 0 2624 0000 | sofitel.com/ sobangkok | New Year’s Eve dinner at Park Society from 6pm-11pm
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in the kitchen Photo Credit: Jason Michael Lang
PAOLO VITALETTI talks to John Krich
How many Italians does it take to make a batch of fresh pasta? In the case of Appia, Bangkok’s unpretentiously scrumptious representative of Roman cooking, the answer is three: Head Chef Paolo Vitaletti; his older brother, pizza-maker Stefano; and the one who first taught them the tricks of the trade: their 80-year-old mamma Pia, in Thailand to mark the birth of Paolo’s second child. The kitchen here is small—crammed behind the barplus-tavola calda of a classic trattoria, with a delectable porchetta roast turning on a spit at the back—so our meeting takes place on two tables put together to hold the required wooden boards, traditional rollers, basket of eggs, and packages of semolina flour. The first surprise is that the latter doesn’t necessarily have to come from Italy. “Even back there, it’s a blend of wheat from many countries already,” Paolo explains. “So why order flour that sits fifty days on a ship?” There’s no surprise in seeing the proud grandma crack eggs into a volcano-like crater of flour she’s formed. As for the exact amount of eggs and flour, Mamma Pia does it by feel, just like she did every Sunday while the boys were growing up on the outskirts of Roma. “Our house was a restaurant,” the chef recounts. Watching the home cook go through her labours, Paolo says that Appia, too, always does it by hand for its paccheri carbonara and cavatelli with lamb ragu, because “I love the different bites, the roughness, the imperfection.” But does an 80-year-old really have to work this hard? Fifteen minutes of forceful kneading are needed to create a loaf-like dough that’s left to sit before it’s slowly rolled into paper-thin rounds. The boys join in to give Mamma a hand with this, though, as Paolo points out, “Just look! Her circles are perfect.” 108 | DECEMBER 2015
The chef does the honours of hanging the rounds on rollers for quick drying. After a break, Mamma Pia takes a small knife to cut strips of dough into slices which, with a deft twist of the hand not unlike those of Chinese noodle maestros, turn into completed coils of perfect fettuccine. “Resolutely old-fashioned” is how Chef Paolo describes the technique and his cooking in general. He even uses that approach when training and managing his Thai kitchen help. “My Mamma always told me: ‘The fish starts to smell from the head.’ So I treat them like family members at all times, and they have responded with equal loyalty.” After years working for Harry’s Bar in London and the Four Seasons chain in the Middle East and Beijing, the homesick chef wanted to recreate the Italy he knew and loved. When Appia started, he and co-partner Jarett Wrisley weren’t sure Thais would appreciate a menu heavy on tripe, rabbit, polenta, and artichokes, but the duo thought “What’s to lose?” “Why complicate our lives doing fancy recipes to satisfy others?” asks Paolo. “My goal is to run a place that people want to come eat at three or four times a week.” Once he brings out the just-made fettuccine— accompanied by the pride and joy of his menu, delicious bitter puntarelle topped with fresh anchovies, a chicken liver purée with toast that speaks volumes of Rome’s Jewish influence—boiled to al dente, then swirled in a hearty tomato sauce and topped with generous slices of fresh black truffle, this writer is ready to sign up for regular room and board. And, like Paolo, I’ve got Mamma to thank.
APPIA 20/4 Sukhumvit 31 | 0 2261-2056 | appia-bangkok.com Tue-Sun 6.30pm-11pm, Sun 11.30am-2.30pm
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street eats
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eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
STICKY PIGGY BROWNIES
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ometimes I need something different than my usual food adventure. On a recent Sunday morning, instead of searching for savoury, spicy, spontaneous street food, I came upon something that went beyond my expectations. It was a decadent sweet. There was nothing fancy about it; it was just a brownie, a rather simple creation, one would think. But the first bite painted a massive smile on my face. It was destiny! The brownie was made by Nainoi, a passionate baker who started her onewoman baking enterprise called Sticky Piggy about a year ago. The brownie didn’t have a traditional brownie’s crispy-crunchy outside and chewy inside. The quality of the chocolate was insanely luscious and its texture was firmer than cake, but not hard—more like a French bon bon. It had the perfect level of sweetness (How many perfectly good desserts are ruined by adding too much sugar?) and depended on the chocolate, rather than flour, for its texture. This little square of perfection elevated the brownie-eating experience to another level. Nainoi was a pastry chef for The Restaurant at Meadowood, the Napa Valley, California, restaurant that received three stars from the Michelin guide. She returned to her native Thailand in 2014 and started baking on her own in Bangkok. Using Belgian chocolate, she creates her brownies in eight flavours, including “original dark chocolate”; “black & white” (dark chocolate on the lower half and white chocolate on the upper half); “macadamia & white chocolate blondie” (Never in my life did I think I’d like a white chocolate brownie, but I was so wrong!); and “cheesecake brownie” (a marble of cream cheese with a dash of sweetness and saltiness resting on top of dark chocolate). My favourite is the “café latte brownie,” with its harmonious blend of coffee and chocolate. Its strong espresso aroma reaches my nose before I make my move to taste it. Divine. Besides brownies, Nainoi has also crafted her own recipes for granola, including one featuring dried tropical fruit and another more classic version. But don’t ignore her semi-soft cookies—they’re unforgettable! To have your own adventure in this world of sweetness, you don’t have to Follow and order Sticky Piggy on its go far: just open Facebook and, with Facebook page. Or call Sticky Piggy at a couple of clicks, send your order. 09 3145 4646. Brownies come in Sticky Piggy delivers to your door. boxes of four, six, or eight pieces at Home-delivered treats—such a B60 a bar. sweet way to celebrate the holidays! bangkok101.com
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food for thought
Ampersand Gelato Sweet, Sweet Smile BY JOHN KRICH
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hailand is experiencing a revolution. No, not the usual kind, but one that may turn out to be considerably tastier. Both Thais and expats are establishing gourmet enterprises of the highest standards, aimed at creating the resources needed for a true farm-to-table supply chain, adding health, freshness, and flavour to the lives of all food lovers. Fortunately (for them), not all of these producers have to slog through rain-soaked paddies, spend their days in acrid distilleries, or get their hands dirty with organic chicken feed. Some are making quite a sweet life for themselves in the city. One is 28-year-old Sasivimol Phetnamsim, whose appropriate nickname is “Yim,” or smile. On her business card, she playfully calls herself by a handle made up by an American friend, “Gelatologist.” You might also call her 110 | DECEMBER 2015
Bangkok’s aspiring Baskin or Robbins. Or should that be Ms Willy Wonka? After a year as an exchange student in Missouri, Yim picked up an American-sized yen for ice cream. Graduated from a business school in Boston, she knew she wanted to follow in the footsteps of her successful father. But importing car radios just wasn’t her thing. When friends suggested she find her calling through taking some professional courses related to her love of food, she ended up not only learning the basics of dairy products at Bangkok’s Kasetsart, but also went for a rigorous ice cream sciences course at Singapore’s National University. She soon opted for some “research” in Italy, indulging in “over 100 cups” before heading home. It took her a year of perfecting the basics of gelato productions—and testing bangkok101.com
food for thought
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close to a thousand sample flavours on lucky friends—before she opened her first ice cream boutique amidst the upscale meanderings of Sukhumvit Soi 39. She took the name Ampersand—the highfalutin symbol for “and”—to stress the never-ending additions possible from following her motto of “Internationally Inspired.” A world map on the wall beside her ice cream display case, now festooned with souvenir magnets of various countries and cities donated by her community of loyal clientele, further makes the point. Flags in the freezer also indicate the national origin of her all-natural ingredients. Yim’s personal banner is starting from scratch with the best-sourced items, where much that passes for gelato in Asia is whipped up from instant flavour mixes and chemical powders as the only components “imported from Italy.” There are no tricks up Yim’s sleeve. Customers can clearly see into the surprisingly small, clean, and orderly “Churning Chamber,” where she boils ingredients together before mixing them into ice cream using two small Italian machines that more closely resemble food processors than the typical industrial-sized vats. She also has a small blast chiller to finish peskier productions. Her gelato mostly comes in bins of 1.7 kilograms for sorbet, and 2.0 for the heavier ice cream, and her scoops, in general, come with less sugar and, more importantly, less air, which can puff up at least half of massproduced ice creams. For now, Ampersand’s best-sellers are a rich dark chocolate made from Swiss and Belgian stocks, the salted caramel shortbread that sold out the first day, and the intense pistachio that truly tastes of sublime Sicilian-grown nuts. Yim gets most excited, however, when pushing her unusual citrus sorbets of Japanese yuzu or lime mixed with butterfly pea flowers. Or an all-black milk shake made with an ice cream of sweetened squid ink. In fact, Ampersand can produce any odd flavour on request for restaurants or individuals. She has also been commissioned to create ice creams out of miso paste and margaritas— even a pizza sorbet. And Yim says she has lists of hundreds she wants to try in the future. Having added a stand at Central World, she now employs a staff of “six plus me and Mom.” Eventually she hopes not just to expand around Thailand, but also to bring Ampersand to the rest of Asia as a showcase for ice creams made with Thai influence. So far that includes a cake of mango sorbet with sticky rice ice cream inside and a play on Yakult drinking yogurt. Can bael or lemongrass be far behind? It’s good news for the rest of us that a woman named “Smile” is finding new ways to make the Land of Smiles both tangible and edible.
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listings CHINESE BAI YUN 59F Banyan Tree Bangkok, South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet offers high-quality ingredients you can actually savour.
MEI JIANG The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2861 2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Widely regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants in town, Mei Jiang has built a loyal following for its dim sum, fresh classics, and behind-thescenes “Chef’s Table” concept.
SHANG PALACE
253/2 Sukhumvit 31, Klongton Nua, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 Tel: +66(0)2 003 9597, +668 1535 4578 Mob: +668 9894 6516 Opening hours Monday to Thursday 6pm - 11pm Friday to Sunday 12noon - 3pm, 6pm - 11pm
AzzurroRestaurantBangkok www.azzurrorestaurant.asia
3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com | 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts.
THE MAYFLOWER Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm Authenticity is the name of the game. The menu here is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan.
FRENCH EVE Hansar Hotel Bangkok, 3 Soi Mahatlek Luang 2, Ratchadamri Road | 0 2209 1234 | hansarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11.30pm Ostensibly, it’s French, but that label is generously applied, with the menu borrowing bits and pieces from all over the place. If anything, the Frenchness refers to the rich flavours and fine, fresh produce used.
J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN U Sathorn Bangkok, 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli | 0 2119 4899 | jaime-bangkok.com The classic cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the 112 | DECEMBER 2015
dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day.
LE BOEUF Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan | 093 971 8081 | leboeufgroup.com The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: highquality steak liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core.
L’APPART 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi | 08 5924 1565 | sofitel.com | 7pm-midnight One of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse. Traditional cuisine charts an adventurous new course.
INDIAN BAWARCHI Level B, InterContinental Chidlom, 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0383 | bawarchiindian. com | 11am-midnight The kind of curries you’ve been missing. Rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious.
INDUS 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | 0 2258 4900 | indusbangkok.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm An ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect while dialling down the stodge and oiliness, a riff on Indian-Chinese — or Himalayan — combinations.
RANG MAHAL 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm Meaning “palace of colours,” there sure is a courtly air about the place, down to the refined, delicate food. The proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs and curries come out.
INTERNATIONAL BARSU Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2649 8358 | barsubangkok.com | Open daily 10am-11pm A former “drink, dine, dance” destination turned into a modern gastro lounge with bangkok101.com
listings a playful menu and a philosophy of rustic “down-to-earth food at down-to-earth prices.”
COCONUT TERRACE Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside, Charoenkrung Rd | 0 2688 1000 | ramamaplazamenamriverside.com | daily 11am-11pm This small hotel outlet that seems nearly an afterthought takes an equally compact menu—five starters, a few soups, a few fish, and meat mains—and makes big flavours and fun from its mission to straddle guests’ tastes and the East-West divide.
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among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town.
ELEMENTS 25F The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com | 6pm-10.30pm An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” translated as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into an a la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option.
JONES THE GROCER GF, EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier | 0 2261 0382 | facebook.com/ jonesthegrocerthailand | daily 10am-11pm At Jones the Grocer, breakfast is served all day, the smell of coffee constantly permeates the air, and desserts fly off the shelf. Jones is as cosy and welcoming as a gourmet store can get.
THE GIRL AND THE PIG 5F, Central Embassy | 0 2160 5924 facebook.com/thegirlandthepig | daily 10am-10pm No place can be more surprising, or more in keeping with the international theme, than the glorified, glamorized coffee shop called The Girl and The Pig. Its menu offerings draw on French, Italian, American, Australian, and even Moroccan influences. Yet the place is all Thai in its playful recombining and generous portions, an instinctive feeling for pretty plating that relies on scrupulously seeking out and showcasing the highest-quality ingredients.
CREPES & CO 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat.
EAT ME Soi Pipat 2, Silom | 0 2238 0931 | eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm-1am Run by the innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked bangkok101.com
MONDO GF Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | 7am-11pm Styled after popular neighbourhood salumerias (delis) and formaggerias (cheese shops) found on street corners throughout Italy. The food here is bitesized and meant to be shared.
PANORAMA Crowne Plaza Lumpini Park | Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk.com | Noon2pm, 6pm-10.30pm Serves breakfast and lunch, but the dinner buffet really has tongues wagging. The buffet changes every few months, from Mexican to Japanese, from Brazilian “Samba San” to a fresh seafood bounty.
PARK SOCIETY Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com | 6.30pm10.30pm Excite both your taste buds and eyes with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner overlooking Lumpini Park and the amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect for a romantic evening or a friendly get-together.
SCRUFFY APRON 6/F, EmQuartier | 0 2003 6263 | facebook. com/scruffyapron | Mon-Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri-Sun 11am-11pm The recently-opened, upscale coffee shop Scruffy Apron straddles several of the above with daring aplomb and plenty of gravy. DECEMBER 2015 | 113
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listings TABLES GRILL Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants, and the menu, billed as pan-European, takes full advantage of the theatre. As entertaining as it is satisfying.
THE DISTRICT Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | marriott.com | 6pm-11pm The name of the restaurant refers to New York’s meat packing district. That shines through in the menu as well as the impressive cocktails. The highlight at is the seafood. Lobster, prawns, oysters, scallops, crab — you name it.
THE KITCHEN TABLE 2F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd 0 2344 4000 | whotels.com/Bangkok | 9am10pm A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Good food and an ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles.
ITALIAN AZZURRO 253/1 Sukhumvit 31 | 0 2003 9597 | facebook. com/azzurrorestaurant Azzurro is a new Italian addition to the bustling food street. The extensive menu of this quaint, two-story restaurant is inspired by the flavours of the different regions of Italy.
DON GIOVANNI 1695 Phaholyothin Rd, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok | 0 2541 1234 centarahotelsresorts.com The menu is full of home-style recipes, the concept rarely straying from traditional Italian. Along with neo-classical décor, the culinary approach lends Don Giovanni a decorous air befitting its operatic name.
ENOTECA ITALIANA BANGKOK 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 | 0 2258 4386 enotecabangkok.com | 6pm-midnight Traditional Italian to the bones, rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, cured meats, and salami on the countertop. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable a la carte and degustation menus to explore. 114 | DECEM BER 2015
GALLERIA MILANO Mille Malle, Sukhumvit 20 | 0 2663 6715 millemalle.com | daily 6pm-12am; Mon-Fri 3pm-5pm An Italian restaurant in the hands of Italians, where the pride is tasted in every bite, serves as the inspiration for a restaurant aiming to conquer the city.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA Terrace 49, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 labottega.name | Mon 5.30-11pm, Tue-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11pm A relaxing space with indoor-outdoor seating. Chef Luca updates the menu regularly and orders produce from Italy every fortnight. It’s all rustic, filling, tasty Italian cooking with real passion.
ROSSINI’S Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2653 0333 | sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 6pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The menu has lots of modern touches that reimagine traditional Italian styles. Also has more reasonable wine prices than many restaurants in this bracket, promising “top shelf wines at cellar prices.”
SENSI 1040 Naradhiwas Soi 17, Yaek 5 | 0 2676 4466 sensibangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight Intense flavours spun from fresh produce, complemented by sophisticated reductions and emulsions. The interplay between rich and zesty, complexity and lightness, results in amazing creations.
SCALINI Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists of the best pastas in town.
JAPANESE BENIHANA Avani Atrium Bangkok, 1880 Petchaburi Rd 0 2718 2023 | avanihotels.com | daily lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6-10.30pm At the centre of every table, and the Benihana experience, is a hot grill, where a chef cooks for you, stimulating appetites with a deft and close-range slicing of onions, zucchini, shrimp, pork, steak— even the restaurant’s signature fried rice. bangkok101.com
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listings KISSO Fl 8, The Westin Grande, 259 Sukhumvit 19 0 2207 8000 | kissojapaneserestaurant.com daily 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Becoming modern mastery of timehonoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, the restaurant has offers the Kisso way of Japanese cuisine for two decades as the place for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok.
TAIHEI 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm There’s a real commitment to quality leading the charge at Taihei. The food is beautiful, and it tastes great, to boot. Honest-to-goodness Japanese served from atmospheric heights.
MIDDLE EASTERN AL SARAY 4F, Bangkok Plaza Building | 0 2319 4388 alsarayrestaurant.com | daily 9am-10pm What Al Saray serve here are authentic, traditional Lebanese recipes passed down from generation to generation. The only place in Bangkok where you can find shanklishe - an aged, spice-coated cheese made in-house.
ARABESQUE 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2, Sukhumvit Rd 0 2656 9440 | facebook.com/ arabesquerestaurantbangkokthailand | 11am2am The menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures. As well as dishes that fans of Middle Eastern cuisine will notice, such as hummus, moussaka and tagine, it includes some they probably won’t.
MEXICAN MÉJICO 2F, Groove@CentralWorld | 0 2252 6660 mejico.asia | 11am-12am The menu tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
SEÑOR PICO 1F Rembrandt Hotel 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 0 2261 7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk 5pm-1am 116 | DECEM BER 2015
Nowhere else in this city of angels are there dishes such as aguachile de camarón, common in Mexico but practically unknown elsewhere. More familiar fare like tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and enchiladas are found on the menu, too.
SPANISH EL CHIRINGUITO 221 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd | 08 6340 4791 | facebook.com/elchiringuitobangkok Thu-Sat 6pm-12am On the surface, a tapas bar. Small dishes and high-quality alcohol, a space filled with antiques: it’s an implant from Madrid dropped neatly into the Bangkok beehive.
OSITO 888/23-24 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd 0 2651 4399 | ositobkk.com | Mon-Fri 10.30am-12am, Sat-Sun 10am-12am New York meets Madrid. A neighbourhood Dean& DeLuca during the day, with its own smoker, churro machine, and deli sandwiches like the Reuben, it morphs into a Spanish tapas bar-cumrestaurant at night.
STEAK & BURGER FIREPLACE GRILL STEAKHOUSE InterContinental Bangkok 973 Ploenchit Rd 0 2656 0444 ext.5505 | Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6.30pm-10.30pm This perennial favourite has all the attributes you’d expect in a renowned steakhouse, not least a superb selection of aged and chilled cuts from some of Australia’s top meat producers.
PRIME Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoen Nakorn Rd 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 6pm-11pm Some of the best flame-grilled steaks in the city, now abetted by high-quality seafood. It’s a welcome sophistication, befitting the sweeping views over the Chao Phraya.
THAI BAAN 139/5 Withayu Rd | 0 2655 8995 | baanbkk. com | Wed-Mon 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm10.30pm bangkok101.com
listings A restaurant offers traditional recipes collected from the chef’s family with the stylishly modern dining room and an open kitchen.
BENJARONG
profiles. As an old shophouse with the funkiest of tasteful trimmings, the restaurant takes its name from the most common Thai form of assent which mirrors the local experience of finding good food in low-key surroundings.
Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 6pm-10pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The Dusit Thani’s signature Thai restaurant offers inventive dishes from the Kingdom’s annals, from north to south.
CHILI HIP Centara Watergate Pavilion Hotel, 567 Ratchaprop Rd | 0 2625 1234 centarahotelsresorts.com | 5pm-11pm daily Wide, unobstructed views from a perch over Pratunam, and a menu consisting mostly of authentic Thai and Asian flavours. There is almost no covered seating, so bear that in mind when the rains come.
ERR 394/35 Maharaj Rd | 0 2622 2291-2 | errbkk. com | Tues-Sun 11am-midnight Curated by Bo & Dylan of Bo.lan, Err is the latest local eatery to apply minimalist principles and gain maximum flavor
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SALA RATTANAKOSIN BANGKOK 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 0 2231 2588 | salarattanakosin.com | 7am-10pm Thanks to the vistas, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. The menu offers comfort food and a few Euro items, too. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass.
THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER
BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, the flagship sits in a gorgeous old mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish.
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HOT ROD G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2714 2575 | hotrodtapas.com | daily 4pm-12am An exciting new concept that prides itself on putting out “Thai tapas,” also known as some lusciously local bar food, Hot Rod packs a combustive amount of cool—via its drinks and design—into a tiny, glassed-in corner of Ekkamai’s Park Lane mall. Hot Rod is the place for launching an evening’s beverage adventures, perhaps a light meal, the perfect preor-post dinner pit stop.
RUEN URAI The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd | 0 2266 8268 | ruen-urai.com | Noon-11pm Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients.
The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953 | facebook.com/ TheNeverEndingSummer | Tue-Sun 11am-11pm Located in Thonburi, occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers an extensive, changing menu inspired by the favourite childhood dishes of one of the owners.
VIETNAMESE SAIGON RECIPE 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2662 6311 | saigon-recipe.com | 11am-3pm, 5am10pm The well-designed dishes here reward closer inspection, as flavours reveal themselves in prescribed order. The portions are perfect for sharing.
XUAN MAI 351/3 Thong Lo | 0 2185 2619 | xuanmairestaurant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30 There’s some overlap with Thai food in the ingredients and flavours, but the exquisite combinations at this much-loved shophouse are subtle and more complex than many Thai dishes. A Thong Lor stand-out.
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NIGHTLIFE MORE FUNK
French DJ Moresounds takes the decks at Glow Nightclub (Sukhumvit 31) on December 4, courtesy of Phatfunk. The underground drum and bass star combines heavy-hitting jungle and hip-hop beats with frantic tempos, and his live shows are filled with energy. Also on the bill are DJ Azek, DeLorean, and DJ Instinct. Tickets are B450 (includes one drink). Check glowbkk. com for more details.
SE7EN SHADES OF HOUSE
Live RCA (RCA, Rama IX Rd) has a slate of exciting shows planned for this December, from German DJ Oliver Huntemann to local legend DJ Nakadia, but standing out among them all is SE7EN FSTVL on December 5. The festival incorporates seven areas featuring seven different strands of House music—French, tropical, tech, and more—with four DJs in each zone. The party lasts from 7pm until 3am, and possibly later. For prices and lineups, visit facebook.com/fstvlbkk.
TURN ON, TUNE IN, DROP OUT
Electric violinist Yuji Katsui comes to Studio Lam (Sukhumvit 51) on December 10. Presented by DOOD, curators of alternative music shows, the concert kicks off with aire at 7pm, leading to the main act, Yuji Katsui, at 8pm. The Japanese artist is followed by popdub at 9pm, and then at 10pm popdub and Katsui team up for a jam session. Expect psychedelic and experimental sounds. Visit katsuiyuji.com for more information about the artist, and facebook.com/doodsound for updates.
WALK WITH AOF PONGSAK
Celebrate New Year’s Eve at the Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok’s rooftop watering hole, Walk Bar, with an exclusive concert from Aof Pongsak, one of the most successful pop singers in Thailand. Tickets are B2500 net, and include one drink. The party starts at 10.30pm and goes on until 1am. Call 0 2625 1234 ext. 4710 or e-mail atcwb@chr.co.th or lalitpansr@ chr.co.th for details.
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review
SING SING THEATER - A Monster Has Arrived -
“
Very rarely are we going to have a night that’s ordinary,” admits Paul, the tall, well-dressed, wellbuilt man managing the floor on this Wednesday night. Standing at the top of a staircase, taking in a surreal opium den-meets-Blade Runner bar below him as an equally surreal post-apocalyptic movie shows on a sheer projector screen, Paul heaves a sigh. “Every night will be different,” he says, finally. This is Sing Sing Theater. Sort of hidden out in the open, tucked between Quince and Casa Pagoda on the sedate Sukhumvit 45, the collaboration of Ashley Sutton and Sanya Souvanna Phouma mashes together the disparate influences of the old Shanghai underworld and the dark and alien future. It’s new—so new you can still smell the lacquer on the hard wood floor, still feel the heat on the faces of the laser-cut dragon motifs, still
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marvel at the incongruous King Kong and UFOs appearing onstage—yet refurbished, the red light, Chinese fretwork, and lanterns hanging from the ceilings a snapshot of decades past. And it’s easily the most spectacular nightclub to open in Bangkok in recent years. The nearly symmetrical space of sunken bars and spiral staircases relies on ever-evolving nightly shows to tie the individual threads together. Entertainment Manager Xuan Xu, a young former business consultant born in China but raised in Germany, spends her days recruiting locals with unusual talents—a lithe Thai man who performs a fusion of tap and belly dance, two professional female martial artists who pepper their routine with voguing—and her nights in the dark recesses of Sing Sing, steering her freshmen toward perfection. Soon she will unveil a talent show of the bizarre called bangkok101.com
review
Face the Gong, inviting comparisons to the wildest amateur productions in popular media. On this Wednesday, entertainment commences with the brooding, futuristic, Space Odyssey-like film. In step with its action plays a soundtrack of haunting, Trent Reznor-ian strings. But then the bill flips. Two dancers descend upon the wooden stage that splits either side of the ground floor of the club. One wears white make-up, black lipstick, and black devil’s horns, the other a blond afro wig and gasmask. A DJ—Justin Mills—clambers to the decks, which sit behind the now lifted movie screen. The dancers start slowly. Moving from chaise longue to staircase, they take high measured steps, jerking their shoulders left and right, dropping to the floor, glaring into the eyes of spectators at the tables below like creatures lifted from a Nicolas Winding Refn movie and resettled in real Bangkok. As the music transitions, skipping from Mark Morrison to the Beatles to House, Paul broaches the topic of the creative forces who have designed this monster of a club. “If you ever sit in on a creative meeting with Ash and Sanya, it’s like ‘The Matrix,’” he says with a moment’s hesitation. “They like to take two opposite things, smash them together, and then see what they can do with the fallout.” bangkok101.com
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Similar to other Sutton and Sanya ventures, such as the burlesque Maggie Choo’s, the experience is designed to be seamless and exclusive. And so they enlisted the help of top mixologists Joseph Boroski and Nath Arj-Nan to design the menu of drinks. Signature cocktails (B310380; add B100 to swap Tangueray for Sutton’s own Iron Balls Gin), with names like Aztec Lady and Dove Pan, are served inside a glowing metal birdcage. Lurking behind hanging leather strips on the second floor, past a wall of false lockets, lies a smoking lounge with industrial vents, another trademark of the duo. Next to the lounge, a semi-secret passageway leads backstage. Actors in this veritable variety show, which will change each month, are signed to Sing Sing alone. In other words, you’ll only see them here, and that includes the China doll muses who welcome guests at the door. Not entirely a club, nor exactly a bar in the truest sense, Sing Sing Theater transcends the limitations of our nightlife vocabulary. It is, as Paul posits, a monster.
SING SING THEATER Sukhumvit 45 | 09 7285 6888 acebook.com/singsingtheater | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am
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imbibe
New Year’s fireworks blooming over the river, a sight best enjoyed from lebua
Distil’s signature Hangovertini on high at The Dome
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The Dome at lebua lights up at night
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Sky-high Hangovertinis Savouring Distil’s Signature Cocktail and Bangkok’s Best Views
The Hangovertini, a silky smooth signature cocktail at Distil, isn’t named after any unwanted effects of having a few too many. No, the name comes from a movie you may have heard of, one that just so happens to feature The Dome at lebua in certain key scenes: “The Hangover Part II.” “The movie is a part of our history,” explains Rawiwan Boonmaprasit, Assistant Food & Beverage Manager at Distil, lebua’s landmark bar on the 64th floor in The Dome. “So we wanted to make a drink that would share that [our history] with our customers. We don’t just mix drinks— we share an experience.” Rawiwan, seated at the bar, eyes three small carafes filled with different liquids. One is as golden in colour as The Dome itself. The other two are dark green and a lush chartreuse-green, respectively. She moves behind the counter and picks up a bottle of Chivas Regal 18 Years. “Green tea syrup, rosemary-infused honey, and fresh-squeezed green apple juice,” she says. “And, of course, Chivas Regal 18 Years. These are the key ingredients in the Hangovertini.” Rawiwan takes a pause in her story to watch one of Distil’s head bartenders work her magic. Into a tumbler with cubed ice goes the whisky with the three ingredients in the carafes. To that the bartender adds a shot of Martini Rosso, an herbal liqueur which complements the sweetness of the apple and the fruity undertones of Chivas Regal 18 Years, a blended scotch spirit created by Master Blender Colin Scott, who can identify 85 flavour notes, including dark chocolate and orange. The mixture is shaken for 10 or 12 seconds, developing an all-important velvety texture and chilled temperature. Then the bartender gives the tumbler a pop with her palm and pours the liquid through a strainer into a martini glass. Finally, she smacks a sprig of rosemary on the bartop to release its aroma and garnishes the Hangovertini with it. Simple, yet sublime. Whilst simplicity isn’t always the force driving mixology at Distil—there are over four pages of premium cocktails on the menu, some of which involve smoking tea bags, mango and berries frozen in ice, and dehydrated lemon peel—sometimes less is more. “With a very high-quality product, such as Chivas Regal 18 Years, the drink has to be perfect,” says Rawiwan. “It can’t be anything less.” bangkok101.com
Just as important, she continues, is that every cocktail extends the on-going narrative of the bar and the staff. Take those four aforementioned pages of signature cocktails for example. They were developed over years by past and present members of lebua’s mixology family—first Alex Holzer, the brainchild behind the Hangovertini; then Ron Ramírez, who left his mark with The Bouquet; and, as of December, Joao Franco, whose modernist creations will undoubtedly draw faithful regulars. Under the watchful, welcoming eye of Rawiwan, each has added their own voice to the story. But this isn’t an exclusive story. Distil involves the patrons in the process, offering a special mixology class—“Cocktails and Selfies”—in which bartenders teach the recipes and methods behind two of its most popular cocktails, the Hangovertini and the Dome Mojito. With community being such a fundamental pillar of culture at Distil, it’s no wonder Rawiwan has stayed at lebua for over 11 years. “I studied economics when I was in university, but I wanted to work with people, so I decided to go into hotel and bar management as a career instead,” she says, peering over her shoulder as if to take note of the customers, as eager to drink in sunset from lebua’s imperial heights as they are the smooth-finishing cocktails steadily served to them, invited into the latest chapter of Distil’s story. As the daylight fades, leaving red and orange ripples in the sky like streaming fireworks, the bar staff have already put the final touches on the mise-en-place—the lemons are sliced, the mint and fresh fruit spruced up, the garnishes prepped for a night full of creative flourishes—and are now hard at work shaking, pouring, and crafting Hangovertinis. Outside, guests look happy. Rawiwan smiles.
Hangovertini
• Chivas Regal 18 Years Old Scotch Whisky • 2.5 oz. fresh tinted green apple juice • 1 oz. Martini Rosso • .3 oz. rosemary-infused honey Shake all the ingredients together with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary. DECEMBER 2015 | 123
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events
NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTIES & EVENTS Ring in the New Year at Hemingway’s with eight very happy hours (noon until 8pm), special NYE dishes, a tableside magician, party poppers, and lucky draws offering vouchers worth B1000-B3000.
Count down to 2016 on-board a party boat gently floating down the Chao Phraya River. The festivities are geared toward the theatrical, with live music and cabaret rounded out with a buffet dinner of international fare. Visit thairivercruise.com for more information. The Westin Grande Sukhumvit rings in the New Year in raucous 19th-century style with its Moulin Rouge Party. Held on the 25th floor at Altitude, the party features beats by DJ LP and live food stations to satisfy appetites for indulgence. Entrance is B1500 and includes a welcome drink. Ring in 2016 style at Riverside Terrace at Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers. The elegant New Year’s Eve gala dinner breaks down into the “grooving party by the river.” The beautiful setting besides the Chao Phraya makes it one of the best locations in the city to celebrate the New Year. Enjoy live tunes spun by a DJ as you take in the fluttering fireworks over the river. Say hello the New Year by the pool at Luce at the Eastin Grand Sathorn. Priced at B750, entry to the party includes two drinks. For a more vertiginous view, head to the Sky Lounge on the 33rd floor to check out the fireworks over the river with free-flow soft drinks, beers, spirits, and wine, plus a variety of complimentary canapés and a top local DJ (B2300). Two of the biggest gay parties take place over the holidays. Starting on NYE and continuing on January 1 and 2, Sundance Asia, on the 8th floor of CentralWorld at ZEN, features top DJs and performers, including Tony Moran, Danny Verde, Preeda Tony, and Deboah Cox. This is a charity event, too. Proceeds are donated to the B-Change Foundation and “The HIV Foundation Thailand. For more information, visit sundanceasia-events.com. The other bash is the annual White Party. The three-day event also starts on NYE and lasts through January 2, held at the brand-new Muang Thai GMM Live House, somewhat ironically also on the 8th floor of CentralWorld. This live music blast welcomes all members of the LGBT community to come together and celebrate in an inclusive environment. Free expression is both welcomed and encouraged. DJs Grind, Toy Armada, and drag queen Flava will provide entertainment. ThreeSixty at the Millennium Hilton is putting together “Pop Till You Drop,” offering free flow packages and live DJs on New Year’s Eve at its Executive Lounge and Outdoor Lounge. The B8000 price nets guests one Mini Moet at the Executive Lounge; same for the B 10000 price at the Outdoor Lounge.
On top of its Carnival Parade by the pool, which features samba and salsa dancers, raffles, and a massive buffet for B13000, Shangri-La Hotel is also offering a ride on the Horizon Cruise. Enjoy an international buffet in the company of family and friends—not to mention up-close views of the fireworks—for B8000 per person. Party like there’s no tomorrow at the W Hotel Bangkok’s Stop the Clock Countdown Party. There will be DJs, special cocktails, and a bottle promotion to take you into 2016. Entry is free, but table reservations are required. CentralWorld plays host to the biggest and most famous countdown festival in Bangkok. Light and sound shows, as well as live performances by popular local artists, bring out revellers by the thousands. Grab a seat at one of the beer gardens and count down with other countries around the world via large-screen projections.
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Evenings at Paparazzi come alive with a hearty international menu featuring Oven – Fresh Pizzas and pasta dishes with a Distinct Italian flavor. From the Thai kitchen, experience classic Thai dishes. Stay connected at Paparazzi with our fast and reliable WiFi service
29 Soi Ruamrudee 1, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 tel: +66 (0) 2 6514400 email: resv@chateaubkk.com
www.chateaubkk.com chateaudebangkok bangkok101.com
ChateauBKK
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listings
BARS 22 STEPS BAR Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Rd | 0 2207 4999 | hotelindigo.com/bangkok A great place to unwind, enjoying a cocktail or fine cigar while watching the world go by. Enjoy buy-one, get-one deals or freeflow drinks at B599 during happy hours from 5pm – 9pm every day. Ladies’ night on Wednesday offers women two hours of free-flow sparkling wine from 9pm-11pm.
24 OWLS BY SOMETIMES 39/9 Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2391 4509 | 24owls.com | open 24 hours A bijou 24-hour bistro and bar where cocktails are a must. A delight by day and deep into the night, 24 Owls offers a unique round-the-clock dining option.
BAR 23 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 09 6145 9662 | facebook. com/bkkbar23 | 9pm-until very late A dingy dive favourite with bases in Asoke as well as Soi Nana, the artists’ community of Chinatown, where the soundtrack always changes and the crowd never fails to entertain.
BARLEY BISTRO 4F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 08 7033 3919 barleybistro.com | 5pm-late Check out the open-air rooftop, littered with fans, bean bags, and funky barley stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for post-work/pre-club cocktails.
BREW Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 0 2185 2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am
See and be seen at this cool Thong Lo vanguard with well-stocked fridges and a healthy list of foreign beer and cider on tap. A beer-lover’s dream.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2253 4648 cheapcharliesresort.com | Mon-Sat 5pmmidnight A no-brainer meet-up spot drawing crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists in-the-know who fill up on cheap beers and gin and tonics before heading off to party.
CRAFT Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 3320, 08 1919 5349 craftbangkok.com | 2pm-12am Serving craft beer on draft in all its glory, this outdoor patio-bar plays host to food trucks each weekend, spins good tunes, and, most importantly, operates over 40 taps.
DARK BAR Ekkamai 10, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2381 9896, 09 0528 4646 | facebook.com/darkbarbangkok Wed, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am A tiny and, well, dark bar serving beer and booze at cheap prices. It’s popular with hipsters and counter-culturists.
FACE BAR 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 0 2713 6048 | facebars. com | 11.30am-1am This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion, a dimly-lit joint that summons deluxe drinkers with cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails all night long.
HOOTERS BANGKOK Next to Four Points by Sheraton, Sukhumvit soi 15 | 0 2006 6001-3 | hootersbangkok.com 10am-2am The new American restaurant and sports bar famous for its wings, beer, and Hooters Girls arrives in Sukhumvit.
HOUSE OF BEERS Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 0 2392 3513 | houseofbeers.com | 11am-12am This Belgian-leaning bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapasstyle bar snacks.
JAM! 41 Soi Charoen Rat 1 | 089 889 8059 facebook. com/jamcafebkk | Tue-Sun 6pm-12am A cool, dive-y small bar in a formerly bar-less neighbourhood whose claims to fame are frequent cult movie nights and underground DJ sets.
MIKKELLER 26 Ekkamai Soi 10 Yaek 2 | 0 2381 9891 mikkellerbangkok.com | 5pm-12am An enclave for beer geeks, distinguished by its many dozens of taps and lush garden. A sure bet for anyone in search of a good — and hard-to-find — craft beer.
MOOSE Ekamai Soi 21 | 0 2108 9550 | facebook.com/ moosebangkok | Mon-Sat 6pm-2am A retro-inspired hipster bar decorated with flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads, giving it a living room-esque ambience. A preferred venue
A CAPTIVATING FESTIVE SEASON
Throughout December, join our feast of festive delights and seasonal specialties. Holiday season comes only once a year. Make it special. Festive Hamper at THB 3888 net Christmas Turkey at THB 4200 net Christmas Buffet Dinner at THB 3950* per person New Year Eve Buffet Dinner at THB 5450* per person Bonenkai and Shinnenkai at THB 1800* per person *Exclusive of 10% service charge & VAT
All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road, Bangkok 10330 Thailand For reservations call 02 690 9999 or bkkci.info@conradhotels.com 126 | DECEMBER 2015
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listings for all manner of underground DJ sets and live shows.
OSKAR BISTRO 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 3377 | oskarbistro.com | 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11.30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby, and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. Most people come for pre-club drinks.
SHADES OF RETRO Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | 0 2714 9450 facebook.com/shadesofretrobar | 3pm-1am It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lo hotspot stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and a grandmother’s attic of antiques.
SMALLS 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1 | 09 5585 1398 facebook.com/smallsbkk | Wed-Mon 8.30pm2am Decorated with vintage furniture and art to give it a bohemian vibe, this favourite neighbourhood dive offers a wide selection of beers, wines by the glass, and hard-to-find liquors.
SWAY Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10 | 0 2711 6052 swaybkk.com | daily 6pm – 2am Chicken wings, poutine, and ribs star on the menu, and craft beer on draft draw flocks of loyal beer drinkers.
THE ALCHEMIST 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 3549 2055 thealchemistbkk.com | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight
This stylish, stripped down drinking hole near Cheap Charlie’s draws its own loyal crowd, thanks to an excellent playlist on top of craft beer, assorted martinis, and some of the best mojitos in town.
THE DRUNKEN LEPRECHAUN
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Reminiscent of a hip bar along Singapore’s Clarke Quay, with bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade. Think tropical maritime meets dashes of outright whimsy.
WHISGARS
4 Sukhumvit 15 | 0 2309 3255 thedrunkenleprechaun.com | 10am-1am Located on the ground floor of Four Points by Sheraton, this Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes and live sports screenings, and generous happy hours from 4pm until 8pm each day offer discounts on all kinds of drinks—the perfect partners for the pub’s complimentary “dips and dash.”
THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB Sukhumvit 22 | 08 7000 0795, 08 0733 8438 fgc.in.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm A member’s only place where guests are always welcome, screening films in a tiny cinema on the second floor and serving reasonably priced drinks on the first.
TUBA
981 Silom Rd | 0 2661 3220 | whisgars.com 2pm-2am Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of this rapidly expanding branch. Each outlet is a little different, but all cater to the finer things in life.
WTF 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2626 6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am The coolest and most enduring shophouse bar in the city, decked out with old Thai movie posters and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. Marked by great cocktails, live gigs, art exhibitions, and a mix of artsy patrons.
BARS WITH A VIEW ABOVE ELEVEN
34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 0 2711 5500 | design-athome.com | 11am-2am A Bangkok classic, room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch. Some come to snag a goofy tchotchke, but it works best as a bar with few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand.
VIVA AVIV River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 | vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends
33F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack.
CLOUD 47 United Center, Silom Rd | 09 1889 9600 cloud47bangkok.com | daily 11am-1am
Kiosk@Thebarkyard Sukhumvit soi 26 Follow us on instagram : kioskcafe 65 Sukhumvit soi 26 (soi Thanpuying), Klongtoey, Bangkok. Tel : 02 259 4089 www.kiosk-cafe.com facebook:kioskcafe
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listings
A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in the bustling CBD that turns into a purple and blue neon fantasy at night.
LEAPFROG Galleria 10, Sukhumvit Soi 10 | 0 2615 0999 leapfrogbkk.com | 4.30pm-1am An art gallery, rooftop lounge, and restaurant wrapped up in a neat little package on the top of a boutique hotel offering a selection of world cuisine and drinks.
SKY BAR/DISTIL 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 0 2624 9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, offering panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with new visitors as well as those intent on rediscovering it.
MOON BAR 61F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am An icon among rooftop bars, offering 360-degree views of the urban sprawl in smart surroundings. The perfect spot for honeymooners.
OCTAVE 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back punchy, refreshing cocktails. DJs spin house through the night, neatly setting the vein.
PHRANAKORN BAR Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd | 0 2622 0282 | facebook.com/ Phranakornbarandgallery | 6pm-1am An old favourite of local art students and creative types, mostly for its indie/80s/90s playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views of the floodlit Golden Mount temple.
RED SKY 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com 6pm-1am The al fresco turret offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come — when daylight fades, a live jazz band kicks in and the city lights up like a circuit-board. 128 | DECEMBER 2015
LEVELS 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 2308 3246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of the buzzy atmosphere.
HEAVEN 20F Zen@CentralWorld, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am When golden bar lights up like a metal sun, Zen feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital, serving up balanced cocktails and a beautiful backdrop.
225/9-10 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2711 6970 facebook.com/funkyvillabkk | 8pm-2am Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to shake off the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs.
HYDE & SEEK PEEK-A-BOO 1F Groove@CentralWorld | 0 2646 1099 hydeandseek.com | daily 11am-1am Peek-a-Boo is “outside” our original “hyding” spot in the Ploenchit and boldly reemerges right at Groove CentralWorld. Peek-a-Boo has all the elements of an effortlessly hip bar-bistro. While certain elements of the design and menu may feel a little formatted, it’s a formula that works. Some may flock to only the finest of fine dining, but ultimately what many are seeking is a much more entertaining and atmospheric experience. For that, Peek-a-Boo’s dramatic cocktails, accessible menu, and DJ tunes deliver.
THE SPEAKEASY Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts. Wines are available at solid prices, and cocktails include home-made vodka infusions.
WOOBAR GF, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 0 2344 4131 | wbangkok.com | daily 9am-12am Chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release, or, better yet, a weekend party.
CLUBS FUNKY VILLA
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd 0 2656 0382 | mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok 10pm-late Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend a desert tent feel.
ONYX RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 08 1645 1166 onyxbangkok.com | 8pm-2am An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. The kicker: a giant video screen looming over the DJ booth.
ROUTE 66 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | 0 2203 0936, 08 1440 9666 | route66club.com | 8pm-2am RCA’s longest surviving super-club, with three zones to explore, each with its own bar, look, and music policy. Crammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais.
SUGAR CLUB 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (next to the Australian Pub) | 08 2308 3246 | sugarclub-bangkok.com 9pm-2am A blend of the global clubbing DNA and an after-hours concept, featuring a Vaudevillian cast of dancers, entertainers, and big-name DJs.
THE CLUB 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 0 2629 1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am This techno castle lends a fairy-tale vibe, with lasers and UV lights harking back to mid-90s trance raves. The music is loud, a full range of four-to-the-floor beats and cranium-rattling techno. bangkok101.com
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TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2258 3758 | titaniumclub.com | 6pm-1.30am Congenial hostesses clad in ao dai; a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly; over 90 varieties of vodka. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.
PUBS FLANN O’BRIEN’S 2194 Charoenkrung 72-74 Rd, Asiatique 0 2108 4005| flann-obriens.com | 3pm-12am A sweeping Irish-themed pub featuring daily drink specials, all-day breakfast menus, and live bands throughout the week.
GULLIVERS 2/2 Khao San Road | 0 2629 1988 gulliverbangkok.com | 11am-2am A spacious club/bar at the corner of Khao San with plenty of affordable drinks, the place to go to end your night with no regrets (and wake up with plenty of them in the morning).
MULLIGAN’S IRISH BAR 265 Khao San Road | 0 2629 4477 mulligansthailand.com | Always open A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals.
THE BLACK SWAN Soi Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2229 4542 blackswanbangkok.com | 8am-late An amber-lit favourite that relocated to Sukhumvit 19 that offers myriad drink deals and spectacular Sunday roasts.
THE DUBLINER 595/18-19 Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2204 1841-2 | thedublinerbangkok.com | daily 8am-12.30am Irish-themed and Irish-owned, this watering hole is preferred among expats for its generous happy hours and nighttime live music.
THE HUNTSMAN 138 Sukhumvit Rd (Landmark Hotel) | 0 2254 0404 | landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub 11.30am-2am English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a famous Sunday roast. 130 | DECEMBER 2015
THE PICKLED LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 7/1, opposite Maxim’s Hotel 0 2651 1114 | thepickledliver.com | 3pm-late Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and many more make this landmark pub, now in its second incarnation, a perennial favourite.
THE PINTSMAN 332 United Center Building, Silom Rd 0 2234 2874 | facebook.com/thepintsman 11am-late A basement bar in Silom serving pints of draft beer and big plates of food. The requisite pool tables and live entertainment get this place hopping on weekends.
THE ROBIN HOOD Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 3390 robinhoodbangkok.com | 10am-12am All the pub essentials are covered: live sports, a chatty atmosphere, wood features, pints of draft beer and cider, and copious drink deals. A great place to start your night (or afternoon).
LIVE MUSIC ADHERE THE 13TH 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) | 08 9769 4613 6pm-midnight One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals.
APOTEKA 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom cocktails.
BROWN SUGAR 469 Phra Sumen Road | 08 9499 1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night.
CAFÉ TRIO GF, Portico Complex, 31 Soi Lang Suan 0 2252 6929 | 6pm- 1am
One of the only bars worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Loved for its jazz and art, a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars.
FAT GUT’Z
264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 0 27149 832 | fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am This saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people listening to live blues, indulging in carefully crafted cocktails, and drinking in the vague industrialnautical theme.
MAGGIE CHOO’S Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd | 0 2635 6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos | Tue-Sun 6pm-2am The main decoration is the leggy cabaret girls, but the real attraction is the live jazz, some of the best the city has to offer. The atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens.
PARKING TOYS 14 Prasert-Manukitch Rd, Lat Phrao | 0 2907 2228 | parkingtoys.in.th | 7pm-2am A spacious garage-style venue, filled to the brim with random antiques, known for stellar live rock, ska, and rockabilly that runs into the early morning. Far out of town, but worth the trip.
SAXOPHONE 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd | 0 2246 5472 | saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2am A must-visit live music joint, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every night of the week.
SOULBAR 945 Charoenkrung Rd | 08 3092 2266 facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok | Mon-Fri 6pm-1am Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown.
TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY 462/61 Rama III Rd | 0 2678 1114 tawandang.co.th | 5pm-1am A vast, barrel-shaped beer hall that packs in the revellers who come for towers of micro-brewed beer; Thai, Chinese, and German grub (especially deep-fried pork knuckle); and, not least, the famous Fong Nam house band. bangkok101.com
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PATINYA
THE OPTIMISTIC VIBES N
ostalgic vibes, commercial vibes, and now Optimistic Vibes. 2015 has been a year of Vibes with a capital V, and, fortunately, the vibes carry on with a positively high note, leading into the new year. For her namesake’s Autumn-Winter line, designer Patinya Kyokong has pieced together a classic, “but not conservative,” collection. Classic is good. PATINYA’s designs contrast competing elements of modern conservatism (very little in fashion nowadays is truly conservative) and the delicate typecasts of femininity. We’re talking open backs, a pastel palette, and short—but not too short—bottoms that are tight against the waist but flair out near the thighs or feet, making them as perfect for the red carpet (at Siam Paragon, of course) as they are for a day on the town or at the office. Inspired by positive and influential nature of women—meaning, women themselves are the inspiration—the designer says she emphasized sharp cuts and strong curved lines to achieve the right kind of silhouettes and patterns to express meaning. The colours often stay true to baby blue and light pink shades, which are intended to represent levity of emotion. But smooth ivory and black also make appearances, a nod to the urban lifestyle of the modern woman. Ditto the blend of French lace, metallic silk, and organza silk—sweetness mixed with city chic in the choice of fabric. The ready-to-wear designs can be mixed and matched with past PATINYA collections, seamlessly connecting with previous pieces to create a fresh new style. So they have a longer shelf life, unlike the oneand-done staples of other brands. Flexibility, value, timelessness: these, too, are good. PATINYA The Optimistic VibesSiam Paragon Fl 1 Zen@CentralWorld Fl 2 Chidlom THAI THAI Fl 2 Lake Ratchada Office Complex
patinyabkk.com | 08 6889 9966, 0 2661 9446
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SHOPPING
e-EVOLUTION How Online Shopping is Shaping the Future of Fashion in Thailand BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
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ife is much easier now than it was a few decades ago. You can thank the Internet for that. Since it first set roots in Thailand in 1987, society here has changed, to say the least. Now nearly everyone enjoys getting lost in the web, whether logging on to play Candy Crush, read the latest celebrity gossip, or search for a new career—especially on a smartphone or tablet. E-commerce is the new black, though. Brick-and-mortar boundaries have been broken in recent years. Locals have said farewell to physical traffic. Instead, they’re surfing the web for new clothes, gadgets, and even groceries, and in truly remarkable ways. Shopping in Thailand has never been so impersonal, yet so direct and simple. Fashion brands, as well as the most prestigious shopping malls, have since long ago provided customers
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with user-friendly websites serving as catalogues to preview items. Outlets like Central Department Store also tend to offer special rates for online purchases on top of free shipping nationwide. Online e-commerce meccas Lazada, Zalora, and Reebonz have such a wealth of items in stock that it’s easier to find the right product there than in a store. And certain apps include functions that allow users to compare items—price, size, colour—before finalizing a purchase. Some offer return policies, too. Okay, so this is a fairly standard setup across the world. Right? Go to a website, point and click, home delivery. Simple. Where online shopping in Thailand takes a turn for the unusual is with social media. Independent boutiques have always been huge here. Take Chatuchak, Talad Rod Fai, or even Terminal 21
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as an example. But for all the success that these small shops have found in physical locations, the Internet has given the greatest boost to the market, encouraging more and more young designers to start their own businesses. That’s because they can promote their goods for sale on Facebook and Instagram, and then connect with customers directly and informally using LINE. “It works like this: a merchant creates an Instagram account and posts photos of their wares,” says Mark Bivens of Tech in Asia. “A merchant on Instagram usually mentions what he or she sells in the bio and includes a Line ID. Consumers that stumble across the Instagram page and like what they see use Line to contact the merchant and ultimately make an online transaction. By using Line, merchants are able to engage directly with each prospective customer and build trust.” With 33 million registered users on LINE, these transactions have become the norm. Forget Paypal or credit cards (which a small portion of the Thai population actually uses). This style of shopping is based on bank transfers via ATM or e-banking apps, and even casual handoffs—sometimes the merchant will meet you at a BTS station or a café to seal the deal, cash in hand, product in hand. Before making a bank transfer, customers need to make sure the shop is reliable. The easiest way to do that is to check the number of followers it has on Facebook and Instagram. If it’s over 10 thousand, you’re probably good to go. Still 136 | DECEM BER 2015
not persuaded? Read comments below the photo of a particular product—people are quite honest online—or try Pantip.com, the most widely used fact-checking platform for Thai nationals. Although almost all the posts are in Thai, you’ll most likely get a reply in English if you post a question in English. With low start-up costs and little barrier to entry, many Thais earn extra income from selling products online. It doesn’t matter if you’re a student or have a day job, because you can run your business in the palm of your hand with a smartphone. The owner of Neramit, Rasita, or “Faze,” started her online boutique when she was a freshman in university. It still supplies her with extra cash each month, even though she spends her days as a fulltime marketer for a major multi-brand company. “I sell clothes and accessories, but I don’t think I need a brick-and-mortar store,” she says. “It was more difficult for Neramit to survive when I first started working full-time. New apps let me approach customers and contact them remotely while I’m working on a new collection at home after work.” Something Simple, a minimal yet stylish brand of handmade bags, has earned international recognition thanks to the brand’s persistent self-promotion of its ecofriendly products on Facebook and Instagram. “I always give away bags to potential influencers. I’m not talking about celebrities, either. I start with people like my sisters and friends who have a large number of followers who bangkok101.com
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SHOPPING
could be considered potential customers,” says Lalita, or “Tong,” the founder of Something Simple whose business has grown to such great heights that she has beefed up her website to support orders made from outside Thailand. Not only fashion is sold online. Travel deals, restaurant promotions, organic food and drinks, home-baked goods, handmade crafts, second-hand vehicles—you name it. You could probably purchase the proverbial kitchen sink, too. Finding the kind of item you’re interested in is not difficult, although Thai is essential for maximum effect. Type what you’re looking for in Google, plus words such as sang sue (order). Then try words like “pre-order.” Instagram and Facebook users can search hash tags (#), like #koreanmakeup or #50percentofffashion. The price is often listed on the post. From there, send a message inquiring about the product. Online shopping in Thailand is remarkably laid-back and easy. Most vendors respond within minutes, if not an hour or two, and payment is negotiated from there. To build the ever-important passionate fanbase, Instagram shops drop messages and emoticons hinting about what will soon be in stock. Sometimes, celebrities tag the shops in posts, wearing their jewellery, clothing, or make-up. Since Thai celebs are like demigods, with millions of loyal followers, this kind of tie-in advertising goes viral fast and can mean big business to a small brand. Today, connections are built across far-flung borders once thought impossible to bridge. And it’s all thanks to the Internet. Once again, “Amazing Thailand” not only applies to hidden tourist attractions.
Countdown to at Eastin Grandst Sathorn Bangkok
Thursday 31 December 2015 The Glass House Restaurant NEW YEAR ’S EVE LUNCH (Thu) 12.00-14.30 hrs. � Buffet incl. soft drinks THB 850 net
NEW YEAR ’S EVE LUNCH (Thu)
19.00-23.00 hrs. � Buffet incl. soft drinks THB 850 net � Buffet incl. free flow wines and beer THB 2,800 net
COUNTDOWN PARTY AT THE SKY LOUNGE On the 33rd floor 22.00-00.30 hrs. incl. free flow of soft drinks, beer, spirits and wine plus canapés & DJ show THB 2,300 THB
LUCE Italian Restaurant NEW YEAR ’S EVE ITALIAN DINNER 19.00-00.30 hrs. � 6-Course dinner at THB 4,600 net incl. a glass of Prosecco and Grappa or Limoncello
LUCE Pool Bar & Lounge POOLSIDE COUNTDOWN PARTY 19.00-00.30 hrs. Entrance fee incl. 2 drinks & DJ Show THB 750 net
All prices are quoted per person. Children under 12 years old receive a 50% discount on buffet. For reservation, please call 02 210 8100 or email: fbadmin@eastingrandsathorn.com Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok Direct access from Surasak BTS Station, 33/1 South Sathorn Rd., Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 www.eastingrandsathorn.com I
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unique boutique
THE REMAKER BY PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA
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t started as a hobby for Yuttana Anothaisintawee, founder and designer of The ReMaker. Back in 2004, Yuttana was taking old clothes and re-purposing them. Upcycling, in other words, although the term hadn’t yet entered the vernacular. Around that time, he met a Japanese designer who fell in love with his work. So those old clothes were turned into à la mode outfits and exported to Japan. But the honeymoon ended, and once his partner signed off and the Japanese company changed manufacturers, only Yuttana was left standing, devoted to the brand they began and pushed forward by his passion alone. Then like a spark striking dried leaves, an idea caught in his mind and started to gain strength. Bags. He would take old inner tubes and fashion them into bags, a product that could cross borders and gender gaps and appeal to a broader audience. Clothing and bags. The ReMaker was born. “Unlike clothes, with bags you don’t have to worry about size,” he says. Yuttana had wondered what happened to old tyres and inner tubes. He was fascinating by their durability and resistance to water. He also knew that by reusing them he would be sparing the environment another round of waste, so he came up with a new way to create treasure from trash. Motorcycle, bicycle, and truck tubes, as well as tarpaulin, became Yuttana’s main source materials. 138 | DECEMBER 2015
Each product is unique, made from materials with different angles, colours, and lengths. Yuttana normally goes to Talad Rong Kluea (in Sa Kaew, on the border with Cambodia) or JJ Market to purchase used clothes and jeans, and he buys inner tubes from automobile repair shops around the city. Once the materials are procured, he cleans off the oil, rust, and muck and gets to work at his custom-built sewing machine, beefed up to stitch through rubber. “Most designers plan their products first and then find the materials that suit their design. I choose the materials first and see what I can do with them. Then I work on the design,” says Yuttana. Last year, The ReMaker won the Good Design and Demark Awards for its latest innovations, a series of wall tiles made from leftover clothes and jeans, a line called “Garmento Wall Tiles.” The kinds of bags available include totes, shoulder bags, and messenger bags. The ReMaker also sells wallets, key chains, and bicycle accessories. Prices range from B100 to over B3500. For a closer look at the products and to find out where they’re available, visit theremaker.com.
THE REMAKER 607/121-122 Pattra Villa, Bang Khlo 0 2689 9389, 08 6374 3869 | theremaker.com
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Ghai Pad Ghapi Ghai Pad Ghapi is sautéed chicken with krill paste. Simply stir-fried with sweet basil, chilli paste, and green eggplant, it is one of Ruan Urai’s “Home-grown Originals.” These new menu offerings of home-style cooking are inspired by Khun Surat Prajakjitr, the owner’s nanny. Experience fine Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m.
Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 Fax. (66) 2 266 8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
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treatment
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treatment
WELLN ESS
BALANZE by HYDROHEALTH - Steadying the Scales of Fast-paced Urban Life BY PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA
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llergies, anxiety, an imbalanced immune system, migraines, fatigue—thousands of people in the city struggle with health problems, despite the rise of exercise, better diets, and organic goods. “Even if you work out and eat well, you’re still likely to have toxins inside your body,” explains Dr. Siritira Srichantapong, the resident doctor at Balanze by HydroHealth. Located on the 4th floor of Erawan Bangkok, next to BTS Chidlom, this world-class aesthetics and detox centre provides a range of wellness and body contouring services, as well as signature massages. Altogether, HydroHealth seeks to bring balance to hectic modern lifestyles. And it does this particularly well with a signature 4-hour detox programme, featuring three kinds of treatment. Before the programme gets under way, guests receive a physical check-up with a resident doctor. While it sounds like a formality, the check-up ensures safety during the sessions, which start with a colonic, also known as colon hydrotherapy (B3800/treatment). The colonic uses water treated by reverse osmosis, leaving it as clean as water used in hospitals the world over. The process gradually removes toxins and excrement from the colon with a gentle stream of water. A specially designed bed lets clients insert a thin lubricated tube on their own, a measure which reduces anxiety and pressure. Throughout the approximately bangkok101.com
40-minute treatment, a hydrotherapist is nearby to provide assistance and massage the lower abdomen when necessary. Afterwards, guests are given a dose of friendly bacteria. This helps maintain a balance of healthy elements in the body long after the treatment has finished. Unlike traditional steam saunas, Hydro Health’s infrared sauna (B1750/treatment) gradually raises internal body temperatures without the use of extremely hot air, which often causes breathing difficulty and dries out the skin. Toxins and heavy metals are passed through the sweat. The infrared sauna can burn up to 600 calories in just 30 minutes, so it’s a good option for those who have a hard time exercising. It also improves circulation and skin complexion while removing cellulite. After cooling off with a shower in a private bathroom, a professional therapist performs the spa’s signature Detoxifying Massage (B4500/120min), a blend of Swedish massage and aromatherapy. Detoxifying essential oils release a sweet and spicy aromatic blend of grapefruit, bergamot, and geranium as the therapist neatly presses and rubs the body, stimulating the lymphatic and skin systems. It’s a relaxing end to a long, but reinvigorating, treatment.
BALANZE BY HYDROHEALTH 494 Erawan Bangkok 4F | 0 2250 7800 hydrohealth.co.th | daily 10am-8pm
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promotions
SPA PROMOS
free use of all wet facilities before or after the treatment. This special price is valid until December 29.
ST.REGIS BANGKOK 159 Rajadamri Rd | 0 207 7779 | elemis.spa@stregis.com
Anantara Spa, Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort Exclusively for the month of festivity, Anantara Spa offers a special package from Elemis for two persons at B7500++. Select from a 60-minute Elemis Skin Specific Facial Treatment, which works overtime to help eliminate blocked pores, rapidly accelerating skin repair and neutralising impurities, or a 60-minute Elemis Deep Tissue Massage, customised to each individual, alleviating stress, easing sore muscles, and reviving the senses using dynamic blends of essential oils. All receive a complimentary Elemis Hamper, “Clean Man,” valued B2200. Available until December 31
Golden Retreat (B3999++) returns at Away Spa until the end of December. Shine like never before with 24-karat gold treatments that leave skin glowing. Two hours of bliss incorporate a 30-minute gold body scrub, a 60-minute golden body oil application, and finally a 30-minute mini facial with a 24-karat gold facial mask. Any purchase of treatment or service above B5000 this month comes with a spa voucher for a complimentary 45-minute recharge massage valued at B1800++.
W BANGKOK 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 awayspa.wbangkok@whotels.com
Reward yourself at Seasons Spa with a pampering treatment to ease away tension, leaving you feeling relaxed and revitalized. Throughout December, a choice of a 120-minute skin exfoliation and a Thai fusion massage treatment is available for B4900. Each package includes Serotonin (hydrating rose scrub and Swedish-thai compress massage), Dopamine (exotic herbal scrub and Balinese-Thai yoga massage), and Endorphins (nourishing chocolate scrub and sports aromatic massage).
ANANTARA RIVERSIDE BANGKOK RESORT 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2476 0022 ext. 1563 spa.ariv@anantara.com
CONRAD BANGKOK 87 Wireless Rd | 0 2690 9355 | bkkci.spa@conradhotels.com
A double dose of sensual delight awaits you at Vareena Spa throughout December. Pamper yourself with 30-minute body scrub followed by a relaxing 90-minute body massage for B2900. Tailor your own treatments with a choice of natural scrub from coffee, sea salt, green tea, coconut, and more. Then combine it with your favourite massage from a selection of traditional Thai massage, herbal massage, Swedish massage, and aromatherapy massage.
THE WESTIN GRANDE SUKHUMVIT BANGKOK 259 Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2207 8000 ext. 8450 | vareenainfo@yahoo.com
Pamper yourself at So Spa on the 11th floor of Sofitel So Bangkok during the festive season with its So Perfect Relief Promotion. The package includes a fleur de riz body scrub (30 min), an aromatherapy massage (60 min), and finally the pure light mini facial (30 min) for B4300. It’s available until the end of December.
SOFITEL SO BANGKOK 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 | H6835-TH2@Sofitel.com
The Elemis Unique Escape Package (B3000) at Elemis Spa commences with a 30-minute scalp massage. It’s followed by a 30-minute foot massage that delivers deep relaxation, alleviating stress, easing tired feet, and reviving the senses. Indulge in the Elemis relaxation area and enjoy 142 | DECEM BER 2015
Devarana Spa, Dusit Thani Bangkok Enjoy a Santa Claus-inspired spa treatment at Devarana Spa. It starts with an aromatic pine-herbal steam to clear the respiratory system and boost circulation. That’s followed by a body scrub with sea salt and Christmas spices. And the treatment ends with a deep tissue massage using an aromatic oil blend of woody Scotch pine, comforting cinnamon, and refreshing orange to further embrace the Christmas spirit while leaving skin delicately scented. Santa Claus’s Recovery Pack is available throughout December for B3400.
DUSIT THANI BANGKOK 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2636 3596 | bangkok@devaranaspa.com bangkok101.com
SIGNING OFF
thank you
The Power of Pink Another Great Night at EAT-DRINK-PINK, Raising Money for Breast Cancer Research On October 26, The Peninsula Bangkok and Bangkok 101 once again teamed up for a coordinated effort to raise money for The Queen Sirikit Centre for Breast Cancer (QSCBC). EAT-DRINK-PINK, a charity event uniting the city’s top restaurants, bars, food artisans, and suppliers, brought Breast Cancer Awareness Month to the fore at The Peninsula Bangkok’s riverside garden. Forty-seven of Bangkok’s leading lights in food and drinks took part in EAT-DRINK-PINK this year, helping to raise more than B500,000 for the QSCBC. These funds are crucial for the foundation, led by Dr Kris Chatamra, as it continues to research cures while providing emotional 14 4 | DECEM BER 2015
and financial support to those suffering from breast cancer. Guests strolled around The Peninsula’s lovely grounds, enjoying a sumptuous spread of food and drink with a soundtrack of live jazz and pop music. Bangkok 101 extends its deepest thanks to all of the guests, restaurateurs, mixologists, bakers, cheesemakers, and more who turned this special event into such a huge success. Above all, thanks go to all the great people at The Peninsula Bangkok. EAT-DRINK-PINK was such a hit that The Peninsula Bangkok has already planned next year’s event, which will be held on October 31, 2016, and comes with the special spooky theme of “Eat Drink Pink Halloween.” See you there next year! bangkok101.com