Bangkok 101 Magazine February 2017 by Talisman Media

C OM IN G SO O N

RPMIEC • ROYAL PHUKET MARINA PHUKET • THAILAND T he inau g u ra l Ph uke t Food & W i n e 2 0 1 7 is t he food even t of t h e y e a r . He l d at t he a wa rd -w i n n i n g Royal P hu ke t M a r i n a , t he Eve nt w il l s h owc a s e t h e ve ry b e s t in g o ur m e t c ui s i n e , w ine s an d s p i r i t s , l u xu ry kitch e n p r od uc t s and s er v i c e s .

www.phuketfoodandwine.com

Org anis e d By

H o s t V e n ue s

O f f ic ial M ed ia Par tn er

Publisher’s Letter

he old Broadway show tune from Oliver really sums things up succinctly when the chorus of “Food, glorious food” kicks in, and that three-word credo definitely sums up Thailand’s attitude towards the culinary arts. Food here is as glorious as it is abundant, which is why we give this February issue of Bangkok 101 over almost entirely to what’s cooking on the streets of Bangkok. We look at the dishes themselves, as well as the people who create them—from local and international superstar chefs, to families that have been doling out fantastic street food for multiple generations. We also offer a sneak peek into the upcoming Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, which will showcase at the W Hotel on February 21st. The fact that for the past three years a Bangkok-based restaurant has occupied the #1 position on the list—Nahm in 2014, and Gaggan in 2015 and 2016—proves that this town is a foodie nirvana, and that the chefs who ply their trade in the city’s top fine dining establishments are second-to-none. However, this city also attracts top-notch talent in the form of visiting superstar chefs, and starting February 18th the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok will be presenting ‘Culinary Greats’, a dynamic guest chef series showcasing star-studded leading international gastronomic talents from across Asia (see pg. 28 for more details). And while the subject of food is dear to our hearts (and stomachs), we also have a bit of content this month that is not entirely food-related, including our special travel feature on Khao Yai. Discover more about this green getaway that offers travellers everything from trekking and mountain biking, to winery tours, luxury campsites, and outdoor rock festivals. And be sure to check out all our other regular features as well. All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be Enjoy. found online at www.bangkok101. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence info@talisman.asia. Publisher

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

F EBRUA RY 2017 | 5

CONTENTS 15

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

My Bangkok Pitaya Phanphensophon, CEO of Mango Tree and Coca

Best of BKK Bangkok’s dining scene; Thai chefs embrace the past; Restaurateurs turned entrepreneurs; Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards; Mandarin Oriental’s gourmet gala; Upcoming food-related events

Out & About A guide to some of Bangkok’s best roadside restos

SNAPSHOTS 36

Tom’s Two Satangs On pairing wine with Thai food

Bizarre Thailand Excerpt from Jim Algie’s new book, On the Night Joey Ramone Died – Part III

40 42

Joe’s Bangkok Joe Cumming and his favourite “hidden” food joints Very Thai The beckoning lady, Nang Kwak, brings business and love

44 Heritage Exploring historic restaurants around Silom and Sathorn

TRAVEL 46

Khao Yai 101 In this special 18-page travel destination feature we explore the green getaway of Khao Yai

Focus on Khao Yai The ‘Big Mountain’ just keeps getting bigger, but where exactly is the “real” Khao Yai?

On the cover

Celebrating all there is to love about Bangkok’s ever-evolving foodie culture—from fancy feasts to street eats, this town definitely has it all. Original illustration by Iraida Bearlala

50 Khao Yai National Park Touring the amazing natural attractions of the area’s nature reserve 53 Beer & Bicycles Exploring Khao Yai by mountain bike with Bangkok’s Hash House Harriers 54

Made in Thailand Khao Yai’s greenbelt and agro-farm industry

57 58

Khao Yai Attractions There’s more to Khao Yai than just forest forays When to Go Festivals and special events in Khao Yai to plan your trip around

59 60

Khao Yai Kitchens Wining and dining options to suit every taste

Khao Yai Map A handy guide to all of the places in our travel feature

Making Merit Wonderfruit Festival’s sustainability efforts

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand

Where to Stay U Khao Yai; Lala Mukha Tented Resort

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | F EBRUA RY 2017

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 88

ART & CULTURE 68 72

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

Required Reading Artful cookbook from Chef Luca Fantin

Cinema Scope This month’s film festivals and screenings

Photo Feature The 4th edition of Galleries’ Night takes over some of Bangkok’s best galleries

104

Museum Spotlight King Prajadhipok Museum

FOOD & DRINK

NIGHTLIFE 100

Nightlife Updates

102

Bar Reviews Gypsy Spells; Cielo

104

Connoisseur’s Corner Khao Yai’s wine harvest festivals, and more

106

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

Food & Drink Updates

Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing Valentine’s deals for couples on February 14th

Hot Plates Goji Kitchen + Bar

110

Lifestyle Updates

Restaurant Reviews Galleria Milano; La Scala; Vertigo Too; Slanted Taco

112

Spa Deals Bangkok spas offer amazing deals and discounts

Breaking Bread with the Il Fumo crew

113

Spa Reviews Devarana Spa

Eat Like Nym All day breakfast at the historic On Lok Yun coffee house

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Phen Parkpien Naritha Yonyubon

LIFE+STYLE

SIGNING OFF 114

Did You Know?... Khao Yai’s delectable Chocolate Factory

Craig Sauers, Dave Stamboulis, Tom Vitayakul, Annaliese Watkins, Nadia Willan

PUBLISHED BY

Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia

ART DIRECTOR PUBLISHER

Narong Srisaiya

CONTRIBUTING

Mason Florence

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

PHOTOGRAPHERS

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Megan Rogers, Dave Stamboulis

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

Parinya Krit-Hat

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

MANAGING EDITOR

GENERAL MANAGER

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi SALES MANAGER

Bruce Scott

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Orawan Ratanapratum

EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Jim Algie, Robin Banks, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwell-Smith, Tim Footman, Chris Michael, Chawadee Nualkhair, Samantha Proyrungtong, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa,

SALES AND MARKETING

Joe Cummings WRITER & DIGITAL EDITOR

Julia Offenberger

Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon SALES EXECUTIVE

Kiattisak Chanchay DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

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© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

FEBRUARY’S HOTTEST TICKETS February 13

CYCLING CELEBRATION February 2-5

For four full days, the 100 Plus A Day Bike Fest 2017—the biggest bike fest in ASEAN—takes over the 3rd floor of the Makkasan Airport Rail Link station from 10am to 8pm daily (the event was rescheduled from November of last year). Since 2012 government, private, and community organizations have come together in order to support biking in Thailand, thus creating this annual event. This year’s festival area will be divided into 12 zones, including: the Shop Zone (more than 200 retailers selling Thai and international brands); Performance Zone; Test Ride Zone; Vintage Market Zone; and the Forum and Workshop Zone (with biking workshops led by professionals). Other highlights include the Extreme Zone (with competitions and performances from Thai and international extreme bikers), and in-between checking out all things bike-related you can enjoy the food and drink booths and the Café Zone. There’s even all-day security for bikes in the parking area.

LOVE IS IN THE AIR February 14

February is the month of love and on Tuesday the 14th couples all over Bangkok will be celebrating Valentine’s Day. If you’re interested to find the perfect place to wine and dine with your special someone, see our romantic Meal Deals listings on pg. 84. 10 | F EBRUA RY 2017

American indie rock band the Goo Goo Dolls will be performing in Bangkok for the very first time this month, as part of their world tour. They’ll be taking the stage at BCC Hall (Central Plaza Ladphrao). Formed in New York back in 1986, the band has sold more than 12 million albums and earned four Grammy Award nominations. They are currently promoting their 11th studio album, Boxes. Things get underway starting at 7:30pm, and tickets are B2,000 in advance, B2,200 at the door. www.thaiticketmajor.com

February 19

Acclaimed American instrumental rock guitar virtuoso Joe Satriani brings his Surfing To Shockwave tour to Bangkok’s Centerpoint Studio (Soi Lasalle, Sukhumvit Soi 105). He is considered a highly technical guitarist and has mastered an array of astounding performance techniques, including two-handed tapping, arpeggio tapping, extreme whammy bar effects, and sweep picking. For this performance he’ll be joined on stage by bandmates Marco Zinnemann, Bryan Beller, and Mike Keneally. Tickets are B2,000, while the VIP Package—which includes autograph session, poster, and front-of-house seats, is B3,500. Showtime is 8pm. www.ticketintelligent.com

February 28

Critically-acclaimed, cross-dressing comedy maverick Eddie Izzard is performing in Bangkok for the first time this month. His monumental Force Majeure tour, which he’s been taking around the world since 2013, will be making its Thailand stop at the Kbank Siam Pic-Ganesha theatre. Izzard has been hailed as one of the foremost stand-up comics of his generation, deftly mixing scholarly references with surrealistic silliness. Tickets for the show range in price from B2,000 to B3,800. www.showbooking.com/Eddie_Izzard.html

February 28

The legendary rock band Guns N’ Roses are bringing their Not In This Lifetime tour to SCG Stadium in Nonthaburi at the end of this month. And while this reunion only features three founding members—namely Axl Rose, Slash, and Duff McKagan—it’s still cause for celebration amongst hard rock fans in Bangkok. And judging from the band’s sold out concerts and acclaimed reviews across the globe thus far, these bad boys are bigger and better than ever. Ticket prices range from B3,500 to B6,500, while special VIP packages are available starting at B14,000 and going all the way up to B24,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

MUSIC FESTIVALS February 4-5

For a taste—make that a smorgasbord—of Thai indie music, head to Wonder World Fun Park (41, Kanchanapisek Rd, Khan Na Yao district) for the Cat Expo 3D festival, hosted by Cat Radio. Over the course of the 2 days there will be a total of 130 bands, on five stages, with local favourites such as Hugo, Greasy Cafe, Jelly Rocket, Jenny & The Scallywags, Srirajah Rockers, and Yellow Fang rockin’ the park. Things get underway Saturday at 3pm and finish Sunday at 11pm. Tickets are B1,500. Jenny & The Scallywags www.thaiticketmajor.com Gunhild Carling

February 16-19

The Wonderfruit festival is set to take place this month at The Fields at the Siam Country Club (15 km outside Pattaya). This is the third staging of this popular event, and four day passes are B5,500 in advance, and B6,000 at the door. Festival goers can expect an entertaining amalgam of music, art, workshops, and food, and at the same time learn about the many sustainability efforts of the event (see our feature on pg. 64). www.wonderfruitfestival.com

February 17-18

Another event set to rock Pattaya—the same weekend as Wonderfruit—is the Maya Music Festival, taking place at the beach at Bang Lamung. The all star DJ line-up is headlined by Tiësto, and general admission tickets for the 2-day show start at B4,000, while VIP tickets start from B6,000. www.mayamusicfestival.com

HIP HOP LEGEND February 10

Hip hop legend Afrika Islam—a virtuoso DJ, able to spin four turntables at one time—returns to Bangkok for his only major 2017 date. Supporting him will be local electronica fiends Wasabi Bytes. The venue is Live Lounge (151 Sukhumvit Soi 13), and admission is free. Expect a night of musical eclectica starting at 9:30pm when Wasabi Bytes performs with Afrika Islam on decks, followed at 10:30pm by a solo Afrika Islam DJ set. www.facebook.com/wasabibytes

Lindy Hoppers will be kicking up their heels this month for an evening of swing dancing fun, presented by Bangkok Swing. Music will be provided by Gunhild Carling & Her Swedish Troupers, and the event—which is free, and open to everyone—will begin at 7pm with a half-hour lesson for beginners. Over the course of the next few hours 140+ dancers from around the world, and random locals trying things out for the first time, will jump and jive to their heart’s content. The location will be the College of Music at Mahidol University (in Nakhon Pathom). Check the facebook page for updates. facebook.com/bangkokswingdance

Starting February 14 Afrika Islam

For four days this month the Queen Sirikit Convention Centre plays host to the Thailand Coffee Fest 2017—the kingdom’s biggest coffee festival. All aspects of the coffee business are covered, from coffee producing to coffee roasteries, machineries, and distributors. There will also be awards, competitions, numerous coffee workshops and special seminars (conducted by famous coffee masters), and even a shopping area. And, of course, for java junkies the Cafe Village Zone is where you can smell and taste the various coffees from the coolest cafés. www.facebook.com/scath.coffee bangkok101.com

February 26

LIVE THEATRE

TIME TO PERK UP February 23-26

SWINGIN’ IN STYLE

This month the controversial play The Vagina Monologues will be presented by the Bangkok Community Theatre at The Admiral’s Pub (Sukhumvit Soi 24, Oakwood Residence). This episodic play, written by Eve Ensler, made its off-Broadway debut in 1996, and The New York Times called it “the most important piece of political theatre of the last decade”. The play will be staged on three separate evenings, beginning on Valentine’s day (February 14th), followed by two more performances on February 17th and 18th. The tickets are B500 and the show begins promptly at 7:30pm. www.bangkokcommunitytheatre.com F EBRUA RY 2017 | 11

CITY PULSE | my bangkok

Pitaya Phanphensophon As CEO of Mango Tree Worldwide and Coca Holdings International—a group that operates more than 70 restaurants and cafés in 15 countries worldwide—Pitaya Phanphensophon is immersed in the restaurant business. In fact, it’s been a part of his life since the day he was born.

Your father opened the first Coca in 1957. Do you remember much of those early years? Well, in 1957 I wasn’t born yet... but I was made then (laughs). I was born in 1958, a year after. The very first Coca was on Soi Decho, with just 12 seats. My mom was the chef when they started, and like any good chef she went to market every day. My mother always said “good food starts with good ingredients. You cannot make good food from bad ingredients”. In the morning I would go with my dad to the fresh market at Bang Rak—my school was near there—and my mom would go to the vegetable market at Pak Khlong Talad. They moved to Surawong [the present location of the Coca flagship restaurant] after one year on Soi Decho. I was born and raised here, and grew up above the restaurant. I remember this area hardly had any cars, and Silom didn’t have any buildings taller than fivestories. I used to fly kites here as a kid. The “steamboat suki” Cantonese hotpot concept was a great success. When did Coca start expanding? In the mid-1970s, my dad took a few shops in Siam Square when it opened, and he really spent some money and converted the space into an air-conditioned steamboat restaurant. At that time, when you went to a restaurant, if you wanted air-con you had to pay extra. But we gave air-con free, no extra charge.

there is so fantastic. You can see as far as Wat Arun. You recently opened a Coca in Hua Hin. What else does the future hold? I’m retiring in August this year. That’s when Coca is 60 years old. I think it’s time to go, and let the younger generation run it. My elder daughter Natalie has been with us since June 2016. She’s COO now, running the operations.

didn’t have the “cooking on the table and sharing food” culture. So I came back to Thailand and realized if I want to expand my business without limit, I need a concept where I can serve Westerners. We came up with Mango Tree, where we serve Thai food, but customers can order their own plates. My selling point is that we serve street food, or “comfort food”, in a restaurant setting. Just simple, good, hearty food that’s nicely presented. And I make my restaurants so that when people come in they feel like home.

Does that mean you look for certain characteristics when you choose a new location? Yes. We try to go into a place that has a history. This house [the Mango Tree off Silom Soi 6] was built during the time of King Rama VI, and nothing has changed on the exterior, although we needed to change the interior in order to transform it from a residence to a restaurant. The latest Mango Tree Coca was started by your father, so is at Pak Khlong Talad (the flower is Mango Tree more of your own market). Literally that restaurant is personal accomplishment? Yes, it’s my concept. We expanded Coca sitting on top of the river, opposite Wat Kanlayanee Niwet. We renovated overseas to Singapore, and that was the old warehouse where the boats well received, and then we went on to used to dock, and where they would Japan and Malaysia, and it was alright until we went to Australia. There people unload and keep the flowers. The view 12 | F EBRUA RY 2017

What are some of your favourite local restaurants, big or small? I like all kinds of food. I like the Indian food at Himali Chacha on Sukhumvit Soi 31. For Italian I like to go to DiVino on Thong Lor. I always enjoy noodles, so for fish ball and pork noodle there’s a place on Rama IV, right where the expressway meets the road, that they call Kuay Tiew Peen Rua, which means “go over the fence”. Literally there’s a small fence that you need to climb over to get to it, so they call it that because it has no actual name. Is the city reaching a saturation point when it comes to new restaurants? No. I am an economist. I always think in terms of supply and demand. If you’re not competitive, if you’re not really good enough, you’ve got to go. It’s actually good for consumers. They always have something new to try. But I would say Thailand does not produce enough qualified service staff—back and front of house. What do you think your father would say if he could see Bangkok now? He would probably be shocked at how the food culture has changed. interview by Bruce Scott www.mangotreerestaurants.com www.coca.com bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Bitchin’ in the Kitchen Samantha Proyrungtong, who administers the official ‘Bangkok Foodies’ Facebook group, lets loose with her take on the city’s dining scene—past, present and future

consumers, this opened a niche market for socially don’t know what everyone on the interweb has responsible, all-natural—dare I say, “organic”—quality been harping about, lamenting that 2016 was the local products. 2016 witnessed local producers Sloane’s, worst year ever. For a foodie in Bangkok, 2016 was Conkey’s Bakery and My Job is Pâté appearing on a strangely exhilarating and eventful year—kind of like supermarket displays or Bangkok’s best restaurant running onto a minefield made of exploding smoothie tables. If you’re ever looking for ways to support farmers’ bowls, bao buns, and celebrity chef restaurant chains. markets without (many) real farmers in the city, this is The year that passed saw the back of institutions as good as any. Still the most popular farmers’ market in like Rocket and U.N.C.L.E at the 72 Courtyard mall, and Bangkok (and longest running) is at K-Village every second the destruction of an iconic timepiece, Hemingway’s weekend of the month. Restaurant. Not to mention the biggest shock on the Which brings me to the farm-to-table phenomenon. food scene in years—the closure of the Sukhumvit Soi This term was thrashed about unscrupulously three 38 street market. Mae, po and ba hawkers all over years ago, hence its absence from menus today. Yet Bangkok have been swept from footpaths and deposited the philosophy lives on as the key element of Bangkok’s into the outskirts of the city, which for many means the trendiest new-age bistros. Seed uses Royal Project destruction of livelihoods. produce, Cocotte uses free-range farmed chicken, Since that fateful day on Soi 38, there have been Broccoli Revolution (a 100 percent vegan restaurant) rumours that Bangkok plans to become the next uses only organic and locally-grown fruit and vegetable Singapore in terms of independent vendors in sterile and for their juices. orderly food courts. But with all of Bangkok’s charming Another restaurant highly adept at using fruit and “bureaucracy”, it’s difficult to see this coming to fruition. vegetables in the most exquisite manner would have to A shame really… we could be one ‘Joke’ or ‘Crispy Pork’ be Upstairs Mikkeller. But if it’s meat, meat and more stand away from that elusive Michelin star in Bangkok. meat you want, Arno’s Butchery & Eatery, Le Boeuf As for meals on wheels, food trucks were rapidly and Indigo are at the affordable forefront, while on the adopted themselves into the mainstream. Originators and high-end spectrum, there’s El Gaucho, District Grill, Il ultimate successors, such as Daniel Thaiger Burger and Fumo and Meatilicious (the latter are doing extraordinary Pizza Massilia, expanded and settled into fixed locations. A things without a volt of electricity used in the cooking smart move? So far yes, although it ultimately remains process). Then there’s Quince Eatery which serves to be seen. The current abundance of food truck up a toe-tingling marrow dish—best consumed newcomers all ride on the taillights of such legends, when gurgling on the remains with a shot of and pull out at all the gimmicky stops—from pizzas port down the hollow bone. In the livestock in cones, to burgers dripping in mac ‘n’ cheese department, the most abused item of late and doused with truffle aroma oil, ice cream would have to be the Tomahawk steak and pummelled into submission by spatulas, ribs—or any meat really—that’s been and diabetes-inducing refreshments that given a few hours in the sous-vide. bubble and produce cloudy vapours. A sight which can make a foodie Nevermind the stray chunk of dry ice groan every time they appear on the attaching itself to a child’s throat, it’s Instagram/Facebook feed. all in the name of Instagram. However, what was “hot” in 2016 Last year also saw an overwhelming (and remains so) is making healthy array of foodie events with every man and choices and letting everyone know about his gourmet hot-dog participating in farmers’ it, particularly while eating an acai bowl markets or some such kooky-glasses affair.This in the lotus position, or being spoon fed brought on an onslaught of food inventions performing a handstand on a remote beach. emerging from children’s cartoons and bad I jest, although I did hear Siwilai Cafe at acid trips. It was also a fine opportunity for Central Embassy does some exceedingly budding food artisans to come out of the pretty ones (and tasty too). The whole woodwork to dabble, test, and trade their Samantha Proyrungtong: vegan and organic scene which exploded in edible masterpieces. Thanks to discerning Bangkok’s fiercest foodie 14 | F EBRUA RY 2017

bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Broccoli Revolution

Meat & Bones

Seed

Cocotte

Quince

2015-2016 has bred some equally hardcore skeptics. Those foodies who cringe at the “O” word, yet concur that the movement, overall is a positive one. What doesn’t sit well, is the hippy hype and in turn the extortionate pricing. Not to mention the lack of regulation and flippant labelling which drives foodies closer to denouncing the high and mighty vegan lifestyle for a bloodthirsty, hedonistic one. Location also has a lot to do with what is hot or not in Bangkok. Sathorn Sois 10 and 12 become the anti-climax of the year. In 2016 it was pitched to be the sexiest drink and dine district, with institutions like Rocket and newcomers like Marcel, but the successions of closures such as Moko (now Kumi), U.N.C.L.E, and the much anticipated Daisy Matthews (which never happened—we got Bunker instead) hindered this distinction. Funnily, the buzz headed further south (of Sathorn) to the Yen Akart area, where you’ll find Sühring and La Casa Nostra. Meanwhile, the Ari neighbourhood chugs along with the not so bold but beautiful (though clearly not as exciting as in its heyday). By contrast Phrakhanong and On Nut are the rising stars of Upper Sukhumvit, with the popular W District becoming the ‘Khao San’ of the BTS line—a convivial drinking trough for the new gen and frugal expats looking for flash-inbangkok101.com

the-pan meals, cheap beers, and forgettable nights. There are a few decent Thai and Western snacky food huts, but not a name one would recall. As for restaurants in plush hotels in Bangkok, they’re making a decided comeback. Those of exceptional quality are Tables Grill at Grand Hyatt Erawan, Scarlett Wine Bar at Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, The District Grill at the Bangkok Marriott, Theo Mio and the Fireplace Grill at Intercontinental Bangkok, and J’Aime at U Sathorn. Shopping malls in 2016 did graciously bring us Jamie’s Italian, at Siam Discovery, which arrived with plenty of ruckus (that died away when people actually tried the food). But there is the one mall that did break the mold in 2016, and that would be The Commons, with their millennial appropriate mix. They’ve attempted to hit all the foodie spots with pizza from Peppina, ribs from Meat & Bones, and the Californian-style Banh Mi of Eastbound. The funky communal space-sharing concept gives the mall its unique edge, and the weekends heave with hopelessly cool kids. Finally, The Helix at EmQuartier is one overzealous and dizzying project that’s overloaded with choice, yet still managed to offer the odd gem— particularly Man Fu Yuan, and everyone’s favourite, lobster and seafood odyssey, Crab & Claw. F EBRUA RY 2017 | 15

CITY PULSE | best of bkk 2016 was also the year that spawned the battle of the hotels buffets, which have only got bigger and more extravagant. Hotel giants nowadays are covering all bases, from free-flow prosecco and detox smoothies, even daring to match fine-dining with high quality local ingredients and top imported produce. Attico at Radisson Blu, Red Oven of SO Sofitel, Atelier at Pullman Sukhumvit, and the (now closed) ISO of Swissotel, were ahead of the bunch. We foodies are very much enjoying sitting back and having our hungry little hearts won over. Starting with unlimited freshly shucked Fine de Claire oysters, fresh sushi stations commandeered by faux-sushi chefs, Raclette and Grana Padano wheel pasta—I’m not done yet—whole suckling pig, and even homemade dim sum. The ongoing promotions are also scandalous. Feels slightly unfair for the stand-alone restaurants, but does explain the sudden death of restaurant brunching in 2016, with the exception of the invincible Chu in Asoke, and Roast at The Commons. This new year hasn’t changed the fact that we’re still suckers for Top 10, or 50 Best lists, but the tendency so far is shifting focus away from accolades, and more towards originality of dishes and unique ambient spaces. We’ve floated around the grounds of the majestic House of Sathorn, and been crammed into the Parisian interior

of Smalls (slurping on Phuong’s Pho recipe and sipping pastis until the velvet curtain opens), but one thing is for certain—we no longer want pendant lighting dangling in our faces, dead poet quotes on walls, and twisted copper and metal impaling our derrieres. Modern-industrial is dead… like all the rock stars and actors we mourned in 2016 with acute melodrama. Rest in peace! Something foodies can be grateful for in 2016 was the increase of unique, independent restaurants, and the decline of celebrity-powered restaurant chains. These cutesy and theme-riddled branch outlets—with eternally fixed menus—will never completely diminish in Thailand, but are definitely more sparse, now that the general public are getting a clue and acquiring actual taste. Still, there’s always a market for shaved-ice tea in a unicorn cup, and “Japanese” cheese tarts at B80 a pop. In the “exotic” category of our round-up, Mexican took a bit of a slump. We found it more talked about than frequented. New restaurants opened with the vision of expats grasping on fat Tex-Mex burritos whilst donning novelty sombreros, or Thonglor Thais nibbling on foie gras tacos while sipping Tom Yum margaritas. The charm just kind of wore off. But Mexican has one saving grace, that the demand comes back in waves. Those who continue to

Bunker

80/20BKK

Sühring 16 | F EBRUA RY 2017

Freebird

La Casa Nostra bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Meatlicious

Bo.Lan

The House on Sathorn

Paste

Morimoto

ride it with aplomb are La Monita, Barrio Bonito and the newly opened Missing Burro. But the new wave predicted to hit Bangkok (often confused with Mexican by locals) is Spanish cuisine. Not street paella at markets stirred by burly, sweaty dancing men, or novelty-sized churros, stuffed with soft serve and sprinkled with Grandma’s icing sugar. I’m talking dishes that reach deep down to your flamenco-ed heels with a renewed foodie passion burning in your soul... you’ll feel like dancing. Our next food fad victim is Japanese. Was it only me they evaded in 2016? The only recommendation I can offer is the new and fantastic Morimoto in the MahaNakhon Cube. The sushi here is excellent, if not up to the Michelin standard we expected, and the highly innovative fusion dishes, fabulous cocktails, killer restaurant design—teamed with modest pricing—will give

this place a longer lease on life. I also missed out on any significant Indian uprisings, although Punjab Grill is still on the hit list, and Charcoal remains a go-to. Of course, I’m sure to be schooled soon enough by ferocious foodies ready to throw their comprehensive “best of” lists at me. So what did we learn in 2016? Well, even though we’re still banging down Gaggan’s door, and flooding his Facebook review feed, we’ve discovered a newfound love and respect for the underdogs—for originality and the element of surprise. I would say Sühring, Paste, Freebird, Sfizio, and the demure yet delicious Chef Bar, pretty much fall under at least one, if not more, of these categories. As for what to look for in 2017, I say try more Thai food in Thailand. BaaGaDin, Bo.Lan, 80/20BKK, Somtum Der, Klang Soi and Bangkok Bold Cooking School, I’m looking at you!

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Thanaruek ‘Eh’ Laoraowirodge

Tanaporn ‘Can’ Markawat

Tradition is Trending Some Thai restaurateurs are looking forward as well as back By Dave Stamboulis

angkok has become Southeast Asia’s capital when it comes to trendy restaurants. It seems like every other day there is a visiting superstar chef, a new restaurant opening, or the launch of a new branch of some renowned eatery. There are so many places to choose from in the city that it becomes impossible to try them all. It is also a supreme challenge to get a table at these places when they first open up, yet six months down the road there isn’t a diner to be found, and you’re left wondering what kind of a fool would consider opening up a restaurant here. It certainly takes a lot of nerve—combined with talent—and yet there are a couple of Thai restaurateurs who seem to have the winning formula when it comes to putting one foot into the future, while at the same time firmly keeping one in the past; preserving authentic and hard to find Thai recipes and running successful businesses at the same time. Thanaruek Laoraowirodge, known to his friends by his nickname ‘Eh’, is a man in motion these days. His entry into the restaurant world started with his opening the 18 | F EBRUA RY 2017

successful New York style bistro Minibar Royale with a group of friends in Bangkok. At the same time, his family’s boutique hideaway resort in Khon Kaen, Supanniga Home, served up outstanding Thai fare, focusing on local Isaan cuisine. This branched out into Laoraowirodge deciding to hit the international market, opening the Isaan eatery Somtum Der in New York, which went on to receive a Michelin star. Khun Eh eventually opened a branch in Bangkok (at 5/5 Saladaeng Rd), and then opened two branches of Supanniga Eating Room (160/11, Sukhumvit Soi 55, and 28, Sathorn Soi 10), a restaurant which focuses on his grandmother’s recipes from the town of Trat on the Eastern seaboard, where she grew up. Supanniga Eating Room in Thong Lor is a simple traditional shophouse converted into a homey eatery, set in a neighbourhood where restaurants come and go faster than motorcycle taxis. However, it is still packed every night since opening four years ago. The secret obviously lies in the fabulous old school cooking, led by the moo chamuang, a succulent stewed pork dish—a specialty of bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE Chantaburi and Trat—made with the medicinal chamuang leaves (taken from the Garcinia plant, known for their digestive system benefits). Khun Eh had experience opening both trendy and modern restobars, yet he opted to stick with tradition this time. He says that he wanted Thais to revisit their own family kitchens and rediscover their own heritage, and thinks that meals that remind people of the home cooking they had as children resonate well with those who love good food. Laoraowirodge’s latest project is even more ambitious, yet looks to be just as winning as all the others. He has opened a floating version of Supanniga, called Supanniga Cruise, featuring an intimate 40-seat boat that sets sail on the Chao Phraya. Combining authentic Thai dining with knockout cocktails, it finally offers Bangkokians a river cruise that isn’t only geared towards tourists. While the tour follows the standard sunset to dark Chao Phraya route—up to the Rama VIII Bridge and then back down to

Asiatique—it also provides guests with a pamphlet giving sketches and explanations of the old historical buildings one passes along the route. The menu, meanwhile, offers dishes like hor mok pu (steamed crab curry) served on a banana leaf, traditional mieng pla too (betel leaf served with mackerel and spicy condiments), and of course the renowned moo chamuang, again focusing on dishes that you just don’t find on most Bangkok restaurant tables. Supanniga has teamed up with mixologists extraordinaire Vesper (named one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars in 2016) to serve the best drinks you’ll find out on the water, and also partnered with Tattinger, makers of premium champagne, which is served on the sunset cruises. You can take your pick of sailings—from a one-hour cocktail and savouries cruise, to the full six-course dinner cruise, or the weekend champagne cruise. With only four or five tables on each deck, you feel far more like you’re on a private floating restaurant than a crowded cruise, and the venture will undoubtedly continue Laoraowirodge’s ability to please both locals and visitors alike. Another top player in the authentic and traditional Thai cuisine scene is Tanaporn ‘Can’ Markawat, who, along with his sister Ploy, runs the fabulous eatery The Local (32-32/1, Sukhumvit Soi 23), as well as the popular New England seafood bistro Crab and Claw (EmQuartier The Helix, 7th floor), and now their latest restaurant, Kin Kao (Central Festival EastVille). The Markawats are no strangers to the art of food, having grown up in a foodie family, with their mother running the show at the fine dining Naj Cuisine, located in an antique home over on Soi Convent. Markawat says he spent years scouring the city for hard to find recipes that he and Ploy were introduced to as children—coming from a family hailing from both the east and south of the country, they were exposed to a wide range of cuisines—sampling jungle curries at Syrian Market or wandering the aisles at Saphan Mai (noted for its fresh Andaman fish) in search of home-flavoured tastes. The pair compiled and collected recipe books, and

RIVERSIDE RESTO

The recently launched Supanniga Cruise boats leave from the River City pier. For reservations, and other information, including schedules, call 02 714 7608. www.supannigacruise.com

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk chef Colin Stevens ensure that live Maine lobsters get imported here alongside of fresh oysters, crab, and more. The restaurant has become a massive Instagram hit in Bangkok, with diners decked out in juice-covered lobster bibs, wolfing down the knockout traditional lobster rolls on hot buttered buns—pretty much exactly as you’d find them north of Boston. Markawat has obviously done his homework. He’s got three new branches of Kin Kao set to open in various Bangkok malls next year, and has already rented a space next to The Local in which he wants to open a steakhouse. Despite warnings from friends that it hasn’t been the best economic climate in which to start up new venues, he says that when opportunities present themselves, you just have to go for it. It’s great to see local food lovers embracing both the past and present, and Markawat and Laoraowirodge have done an outstanding job at introducing Thais and foreigners to original Thai recipes, new versions, and even non-Thai cuisine to boot. Bangkok can be assured that its foodie paradise title won’t be getting threatened anytime soon.

THE PAIR FROM PASTE

the menu at The Local reflects their endeavours. It’s full of descriptions about the dishes, such as which region they come from and which era they were created in, as well as some words about the ingredients. While Thais are familiar with many of the dishes, most foreigners haven’t got a clue when it comes to pak miang (a leafy vegetable from the south that is rarely found in Bangkok), or gaeng run juan, a beef curry bursting with lemongrass and other fresh herbs, which hails all the way back to the Rama V Royal Court. While The Local is housed in a beautiful old teak home full of antiques, with a garden terrace to go alongside of elegant private dining rooms, Markawat’s latest opening, Kin Kao, takes some of the same traditional recipes and aims them at the younger suburban generation. As opposed to the large extended family dining gatherings you’ll find at The Local, at Kin Kao you get lots of young couples, popping in after a round of mega-mall shopping. The food is just as good though, and plenty of attention is paid to detail, such as with the tom jiew, a traditional soup in which sweet potato gets stewed with all of the Thai staples—coriander, kaffir lime, lemongrass, sweet basil, and chilies; made fragrant from hours of cooking. You might think twice after so much local success with Thai restaurants about trying something international, but Markawat has also succeeded wildly with Crab and Claw. He travelled to New England several times to hone up on recipes and authenticity, and he and Hawaiian 20 | F EBRUA RY 2017

For fabulous fine dining combined with authentic Thai tastes, the perfect “marriage” can be found at Paste, located on the 3rd floor of the upscale Gaysorn Shopping Centre (999 Ploenchit Rd). Founded by the husband and wife team of Jason Bailey and Bongkoch ‘Bee’ Satongun, the restaurant has focused on modern techniques, while keeping traditional flavours and authenticity. Satongun and Bailey admit that these days it is important for Thai cuisine not to become fixed or stagnant, and that cooks need to produce something layered, rather than just going for the smashed, overpungent approach that so many seem to favour. The pair say that Thai food dishes are like pieces of music, needing a unique personality and a layered orchestra of flavours. Integration is the guiding principle, along with the various dishes and specific tastes offsetting one another. The duo also stress the importance of each dish made evoking a strong sense of Thailand. Many restaurants boast about the international ingredients they use, but it is probably better to focus on the superb and unique Thai ingredients that exist, as well as injecting a “sense of Thai” to each plate.

bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Chef David Thompson

Chef Gaggan Anand

Edible Empires

As Bangkok’s restaurant boom sees no sign of folding, one successful space isn’t enough for some of this city’s culinary multi-taskers By Tim Footman

hai food only really began to make an impact on the global mindset in the 1980s and much of it was, to be honest, a pretty lame imitation of the real thing—hampered by lack of appropriate ingredients and a worry that fragile Westerners wouldn’t be able to cope with the heat and complexity. Those foreigners that did make it to Siam seemed content with variations on Pad Thai and banana pancakes. Sampling anything more exotic was more an exercise in culinary anthropology than a matter of pleasure. The idea that Bangkok would one day be a mustvisit destination for experienced foodies, both for Thai and international cuisines, would have seemed pretty preposterous then. When I first set foot in the capital, in 2001, the restaurant scene was fairly straightforward. There was one truly world-class restaurant (Le Normandie), about half a dozen very good ones (Blue Elephant, Zanotti, Philippe, and their ilk) and then a

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massive gap before you got down and dirty with the shophouses and street food—pretty much the only reason curious foodies would come to town. Now it’s like a different planet. The initial burst of creativity that began in 2009-2010 with the arrival from London of Nahm and Bo.lan (the days when “can farangs cook Thai?” was a viable headline) has developed into a thrilling, chaotic period of development and experimentation that’s attracted the attention of the world. There have been regional and global awards for the likes of David Thompson and Gaggan Anand, the arrival of foreign brands such as Robuchon, Jamie’s Italian, and Din Tai Fung, and a renewed sense of pride in high-quality local ingredients and products. For some restaurateurs, the ideal of running a successful, popular restaurant is more than enough, and many of these thrive, with fans returning for their favourite dishes, building up a rapport with the proprietor. bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE This was pretty much Choti Leenutaphong’s idea when he opened the bar/restaurant Vesper on Convent Road, in partnership with his wife Debby and Luca Appino, proprietor of La Bottega di Luca on Sukhunvit Soi 49. “It may sound a cliché, but I have always been passionate about food and drink ever since I was young,” explains Choti. “I’d settled with just writing food blogs and posting on Instagram about the restaurants I visited. But I realized that if I were really passionate about this industry, I should give it a go. How could I criticize other restaurants if I’ve never opened one myself and understood how hard it is? Additionally, if I wanted to see a change in the food and drinks scene the way I want it to happen, then the only way is to get myself into the restaurant business.” But, as so often happens, the louche, twilight vibe of Vesper wasn’t enough for Choti and friends. Last year, the same team opened Il Fumo on Rama IV, with more of an emphasis on meat-centred meals (although drinks are still under the control of the award-winning Pailin ‘Milk’ Sajjanit). Luca, meanwhile, had dipped a toe into more casual cuisine with Pizza Massilia, originally a posh food truck usually parked in Sala Daeng but now a more permanent entity on Soi Ruamruedee. The pizza enterprise is a partnership with Fred Meyer, a fun-loving Frenchman who currently has an interest in six restaurants, including Issaya Siamese Club and Namsaah Bottling Trust, plus the Japanese Kom-Ba-Wa on Soi Suan Phlu. He appears to be able to handle the pressures of juggling these varied concerns, although there are a few issues. “In a country with the lowest rate of unemployment in the world it’s getting really tough to find people dedicated

to this demanding business,” he says. “The long hours, working on holidays and weekends and so on. Another challenge comes from all the people judging your work, professional or non-professional, some of them are doing it right and really help you, but to be honest the vast majority are hurting your business.” No idea who he means… Choti faced and overcome similar hurdles when he began Vesper, but he was prepared for the challenge of riding more than one horse. “The biggest challenge is surely transitioning from being a restaurateur of one restaurant into a business owner who owns multiple restaurants,” he says. “When you own one restaurant, you can always be there all the time to talk to your customers or motivate and teach your staff. When you have two, you have to be able to divide your time between one place and the other wisely. On top of that, you have a lot of other business issues to deal with like how to create greater efficiency or how to expand more. Lastly, since you cannot be at the restaurants all the time, you have to develop key people who have potential to grow, empower them, and entrust them with tasks that you would normally do in the past. They might not do a better job than you now, but in the long run, they will and your life will be much easier.” This desire for diversification appears to be contagious. In addition to Issaya Siamese Club and Namsaah, Ian Kittichai has interests in Hyde & Seek and Smith, while Jarrett Wrisley oversees Appia and Peppina with Paolo Vitaletti, as well as running Soul Food Mahanakorn on Thonglor and its younger sibling Soul Food 555 at The Commons. Tim Butler from Eat Me is one of

Chef Luca Appino

Chef Ian Kittichai

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk the backers of Bunker on Sathorn 12, and recently opened up the seaside Esenzi restaurant near Phuket. Gaggan Anand, whose restaurant topped the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant polls in 2015 and 2016, is reaching out to the carnivore constituency with Meatlicious. One of the most exciting young Thai chefs around, Ton Tassanakajohn, maintains Le Du as his base while also keeping an eye on two very different places—the home-style Baan on Wittayu, and the newly opened Backyard By Baan in Srinakarin (Sukhumvit Soi 105). Meanwhile, Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava, the couple behind the pioneering Bo.Lan, have opened Err, a more earthy operation near the river. And that’s just the operators that have stayed within the confines of Krung Thep. Chef Nooror Steppe-Somany is the matriarch of the family behind Blue Elephant, one of the key players in communicating Thai cuisine to the world. The brand has outlets not just in Bangkok and Phuket, but also in several locations in Europe and the Middle East. Meanwhile, David Thompson of Nahm has taken the Long Chim brand to Singapore, Sydney, and Perth. And Sorapoj Techakraisi of Pace Development went from running Dean & DeLuca in Thailand, to owning the whole worldwide group (he’s also behind L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and M Krub in the company’s MahaNakhon development). Another successful export is Somtum Der in New York City, a Michelin star winner in the 2016 guide. It’s the sister of the restaurant on Soi Sala Daeng and part of the thriving Supanniga Group, which also encompasses the Supanniga Eating Rooms on Thonglor and Sathorn 10, and EAT at

CentralWorld and EmQuartier (there’s also a Somtum Der in Ho Chi Minh City, with new outlets due for Beijing and Tokyo later this year). Thanaruek Laoraowirodge, the managing director of the group, cut his teeth with the Minibar Royale bistro, before seizing on the market for high-quality Thai food. “Of course the restaurant business has a lot of details and need a lot of micro-management,” he says. “But I found that it is not too stressful. Maybe it is because my personality fits well with the business. When it comes to the financial aspect, the restaurant business is actually financially rewarding if you can manage, control your cost and make it profitable. If you are successful the net margin is actually quite high. If you can make 30 percent that is already above the average standard of general business.” But probably the most diverse and successful portfolio in town is held by the Water Library group. The brand first made a mark with its much-missed Thonglor outlet, which forced the notoriously picky Bangkok foodie elite to confront the notion of no-choice chef’s table dining. That venue has since closed, but the company now encompasses a restaurant at Chamchuri, and brasseries at Central Embassy and Crystal Park, as well as the 1881 bar, Seed, Ciao Pizza, Kuku, and Hong Bao (not to mention the Michelin-starred Alma in Singapore). How have they maintained their success in so many cuisines when there’s so much competition? “The challenge is how to make customers remember us and choose to come back to our restaurants since Bangkok has so many choices,” says the group’s CEO,

Chef Tim Butler

Chef Paolo Vitaletti 24 | F EBRUA RY 2017

Chef Ton Tassanakajohn bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Chefs Bo Songvisava and Dylan Jones

Noppadon ‘Tata’ Narittakurn

Noppadon ‘Tata’ Narittakurn. “New restaurants open every day so we do what we do best by making sure our staff are trained to maintain the quality and standard of service as well as regulating the quality of food in all our restaurants all the time.” Ultimately, Noppadon sees the frantic coming and going as an opportunity. “We’ve seen more and more big-name chefs and restaurant chains coming in to Bangkok especially in the past two years,” he continues. “The world has become smaller and people have more of an opportunity to be exposed to different styles of food, with famous guests chefs frequently coming to Bangkok. Also, people are starting to see Bangkok as really a dining destination, ranging from our famous street food to world-renowned fine dining restaurants. On the local side, we also see many new talented Thai chefs emerging continuously, focusing more on local and organic ingredients. I think it is inspirational to see the energy and passion that uplifts the food industry here.” The entrepreneurs spoken to all seem to be thriving on the adrenalin of the restaurant boom, but such projects can just as easily fall to pieces in a spectacular fashion. Tattooed Australian curse machine Ashley Sutton changed the face of Bangkok’s bar and casual dining culture with spaces including Iron Fairies, Fat Gut’z, Bangkok Betty, and Mother Jones, until murky business reverses saw him lose control of all the properties. Sutton managed to bounce back, achieving a new level of success with his Iron Balls Gin Distillery, and as an interior designer for hire in Bangkok and Hong Kong, but not everyone is so lucky. Restaurants seem to crash and burn every few weeks— maybe the sense of danger is part of the attraction. The other question is whether the boom is sustainable, not just in terms of individual restaurants or groups, but as a whole. Fred Meyer is optimistic, having seen how much things have improved. “Bangkok has always been a foodie destination, as we all know Thai people love to eat and drink,” he

says. “But in the 16 years I have been living here, the biggest change has been the access to world food, in terms of ingredients and chefs. Thai tastes have changed and are much more open to new discoveries. Also another big change is the birth of the wine culture for the masses—when I arrived in Thailand wine was for an elite of connoisseurs, but now it has really become democratized.” Choti Leenutaphong, meanwhile, sees a hopeful thread of culinary purity in amongst the anarchy. “I am not sure if this is a next big thing but I think authenticity and a unique sense of place might make a comeback,” he suggests. “At the moment, there are waves of restaurants that do somewhat fusion food—they might package it as new American or new Australian, but it’s still a fusion cuisine. And while this is okay and offering new things to customers, I think more and more people are seeking authenticity in a cuisine. My type of luxury is not to go to fine dining restaurants. Rather, it’s about the ability to eat regional cuisine of one’s place with the purity of their products and recipes, without the interference of other products from other areas.” Thanaruek Laoraowirodge, possibly spurred by the success of his Somtum Der outlet, is looking to the fat tyre dude for validation. “I consider Michelin’s presence the next big thing in Bangkok,” he says. “It will result in the development of F&B industry in Thailand, entrepreneurs will be more motivated to improve and maintain standard of their restaurants in order to compete with others, and this, of course, benefits customers.” Noppadon Narittakurn also looks forward to the rumoured arrival of Michelin but is confident that things are going just fine without the attention. “More big-name chefs will open fine dining restaurants here, since there’s still room to grow,” he predicts. “And I think we’ll also see more Thai restaurants opening from the younger generation of Thai chefs.”

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

The Winner’s Circle

Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards returns to Thailand in 2017

ollowing the successful move to Thailand in 2016, the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards ceremony returns to Bangkok in 2017. Now celebrating its fifth year, the prestigious event, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, will take place on Tuesday, February 21st. Hosted with the support of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), the annual event gathers the region’s most renowned chefs, industry VIPs, and international media. Since launching in 2013, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants has become the most trusted and credible guide to the best places to eat around the region. The 2016 list welcomed 10 new entries, and showcased the best dining experiences in 13 Asian countries, more than ever before. The 2017 programme will also include the #50BestTalks event on February 20th, a combination of local food discovery and interactive chef demonstrations that explores regional food trends and local Thai cooking techniques. This one-day curated forum will feature some of Asia’s most influential culinary leaders, including chefs from Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. “After the success of the 2016 event, we’re thrilled to return to Thailand,” remarked William Drew, Group Editor

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of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. “Given the country’s rich culinary history, unique Thai hospitality, and vibrant restaurant scene, Thailand is rightly regarded as one of the most celebrated food capitals of the world and an ideal host country for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.” As Thailand’s prominence in Asia’s culinary scene continues to grow, so too do the number of Thailand restaurants appearing in the winner’s circle. For the last three years, Bangkok restaurants have claimed the No.1 spot on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. David Thompson’s Nahm took top honours in 2014, while Gaggan Anand’s eponymously named restaurant Gaggan secured the No.1 spot in 2015 and again last year. Along with these two veteran contenders, the 2016 list also featured the Bangkok-based restaurants Eat Me (No.23), and Issaya Siamese Club (No.19). The list is created from the votes of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, an influential group of over 300 leaders in the restaurant industry across Asia, each selected for their expert opinion of Asia’s restaurant scene. The panel in each region is made up of food writers and critics, chefs, restaurateurs and highly regarded bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

‘gastronomes’. Members list their choices in order of preference, based on their best restaurant experiences of the previous 18 months. There is no pre-determined check-list of criteria, but there are strict voting rules. For instance: all votes are strictly confidential before the list announcement; panelists are required to vote for seven restaurants, at least three of which must be outside their own country; voters must have eaten in the restaurants they nominate within the previous 18 months; voters are not permitted to vote for restaurants they own or have a financial interest in; and the nominations must be made for the restaurant, not for the restaurateur or the chef. For the 2017 edition, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants is once again working with professional services consultancy Deloitte as its official independent adjudication partner. The adjudication by Deloitte ensures that the integrity and authenticity of the voting process and the resulting list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants are protected. The Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list is owned and published by William Reed Business Media, which also publishes The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, launched in 2002, and Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, launched in September 2013. The company is entirely responsible for the organization of the awards, the voting system and the list. Meanwhile the main sponsors continue to be S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, the leading natural mineral waters in the fine dining world, while other sponsors include: Diners Club International (sponsor of ‘The bangkok101.com

Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award); Asia Miele (sponsor of the ‘One To Watch Award’); and the W Hotel Bangkok, the official hotel and venue partner. www.theworlds50best.com/asia/en www.finedininglovers.com

STAY CONNECTED

™

To follow this year’s results live as they unfold, stay connected with one of these four social media channels: Twitter: @TheWorlds50Best #Asias50Best Facebook: www.facebook.com/Asias50BestRestaurants Instagram: @TheWorlds50Best YouTube: Worlds50Best channel

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Culinary Star Power

This month Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok plays host to a unique and unforgettable guest chef series

ark your calendars now, because on February 18th and 19th—and then again on February 22nd and 23rd—the prestigious Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok hotel will be presenting Culinary Greats, an incredible and dynamic guest chef series that will bring to Bangkok a star-studded line-up of leading international gastronomic talents from across Asia. Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok hotel has a long and illustrious history—140 years and counting for this city’s La Grande Dame of the riverfront—and is certainly no stranger to hosting VIPs, celebrities, and visiting dignitaries. It’s only fitting then that Bangkok’s most legendary hotel is hosting this incredible gourmet gala. If you are a serious foodie, you will not want to miss it!

SCHEDULE OF EVENTS FEBRUARY 18 Chef: Umberto Bombana from 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana (Hong Kong) Price: B9,500++ Event: 6-course dinner @ Le Normandie FEBRUARY 19 Chefs: Julian Royer from Odette (Singapore), Arnaud Dunand Sauthier from Le Normandie (Thailand) Price: B6,500++ Event: 9-course, 4-hands lunch @ Le Normandie FEBRUARY 19 Chefs: Richard Ekkebus from Amber (Hong Kong), Ryan Clift from Tippling Club (Singapore), and Mingoo Kang from Mingles (Seoul) Price: B7,800++ Event: 9-course, 6-hands dinner @ Lord Jim’s

UMBERTO BOMBANA Hailed as “The King of White Truffles”, Chef Umberto Bombana’s talent and skills have taken him around the world, eventually arriving in Hong Kong in 1993 to open Toscana. In 2008, he opened 8½ Otto e mezzo Bombana, which was awarded two Michelin stars after only 11 months of opening. It later achieved three stars in 2012, becoming the first and only Italian restaurant outside Italy to receive such high recognition (and it has retained the honour for six consecutive years).

RICHARD EKKEBUS

Richard Ekkebus is the Culinary Director at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, overseeing the entire food and beverage department at one of the city’s most luxurious and distinctive five-star hotels. Under Richard’s direction, Amber, the hotel’s contemporary French restaurant has been, for the ninth consecutive year, awarded two Michelin stars by the Michelin Guide for Hong Kong and Macau and voted 20th best restaurant in the world on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list 2016.

FEBRUARY 22 Chef: Luca Fantin from Il Ristorante Luca Fantin (Tokyo) Price: B4,500++ Event: 5-course dinner @ Le Normandie FEBRUARY 23 Chef: Dharshan Munidasa from Ministry of Crab (Colombo, Sri Lanka) Price: B3,500++ Event: 6-course dinner @ Lord Jim’s 28 | F EBRUA RY 2017

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok

48, Charoenkrung Soi 40 All prices are food only. For ticket information please call: 02 659 9000 ext. 7390, or email mobkk-restaurants@mohg.com www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok bangkok101.com

JULIEN ROYER

The award-winning Chef Julien Royer is the co-owner of Odette, a two-Michelin starred modern French restaurant located at the National Gallery in Singapore. The restaurant is named in tribute to the chef’s grandmother—one of his greatest influences in life and in the kitchen. Julien has devoted years to forging lasting relationships with some of the planet’s finest boutique producers. Prior to establishing Odette, he won over diners and critics globally during his four-year tenure at Jaan at Swissotel the Stamford, in Singapore.

RYAN CLIFT

Over the course of his 20-year career, Chef Ryan Clift has worked with some of the world’s best chefs. In early 2008 he moved to Singapore, where he and the Spa Esprit Group launched Tippling Club, taking modern food and cocktail pairing to a new level. In October 2010 the restaurant was named in the annual Miele Awards Top 20 Restaurants in Asia, and most recently was ranked No. 31 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2016 .

MINGOO KANG

When he opened Mingles in Seoul in 2014, Chef Mingoo Kang set out to take Korean food to the world. He trained under Martin Berasategui in San Sebastian, Spain, and later enjoyed stints at Nobu in Miami and the Bahamas. Mingles entered Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016 list at No. 15, the highest new entry to the list. The restaurant, which “mingles” Eastern and Western cuisines—taking inspiration from Kang’s time overseas—is located in Seoul’s buzzy Cheongdam-dong district.

ARNAUD DUNAND SAUTHIER

DHARSHAN MUNIDASA Chef Dharshan Munidasa founded both Nihonbashi and the Ministry of Crab, two of Sri Lanka’s most successful restaurants (both appearing on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list). In 2014 he began Kaema Sutra, a contemporary Sri Lankan cuisine restaurant that draws inspiration from traditional recipes. His cooking employs the use of fresh local produce alongside Japanese culinary principles. Two of his restaurants even employ a no-freezer policy, emphasizing the use of fresh produce and guaranteeing the quality of all his dishes. bangkok101.com

The Chef de Cuisine at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok’s famed Le Normandie restaurant is Arnaud Dunand Sauthier, who brings with him more than two decades of experience in fine dining. He has worked with renowned culinary talents worldwide, including three years spent at Maison Lameloise in Burgundy before venturing to Le Crillon in Paris under the leadership of JeanFrancois Piège. Chef Arnaud is delighted to share his culinary passion, introducing a new generation of culinary explorers to the sophistication of his native haute cuisine.

LUCA FANTIN

Chef Luca Fantin’s cuisine strikes a perfect balance between taste and aesthetics: the beautiful presentation and intense fragrances announce to the eyes and nose the extraordinary experience in store for the palate. The Michelinstarred Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, at the Bulgari Ginza Tower in Tokyo, offers a contemporary interpretation of the Italian culinary tradition—a temple of fine cuisine that combines quality seasonal ingredients, refined cooking techniques, and artful creativity. F EBRUA RY 2017 | 29

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Moveable Feasts

More fabulous foodie fests and other upcoming gourmet events FEBRUARY 7-9

This month the Hotel Muse Bangkok is celebrating its 5th anniversary with a gourmet dinner at the Medici Kitchen & Bar, highlighted by a spectacular performance from the multi-talented performers of Cirque d’Hiver. On three consecutive nights, diners can experience this extraordinary spectacle while enjoying a sumptuous four-course menu with free flow wine for just B2,900++ per person (limited to 60 seats only). This unique event brings together some of Thailand’s most amazing acrobats for a show that features a Broadway dance routine, an aerial chandelier act, and a Lido Paris finale. Doors open at 6:30pm. To reserve your table, call 02 630 4000. www.hotelmusebangkok.com

FEBRUARY 22-25 Bangkok continues to shine on the gourmet front this year, starting with the arrival of Chef Valentino Marcattilii at the Pullman Bangkok King Power. This Italian chef, famous for his interpretation of traditional cuisine and local ingredients, is the owner of the 2-Michelin-starred Ristorante San Domenico in Imola, Italy. He will be at the hotel’s Wine Pub restaurant for four consecutive nights, and diners can enjoy his four-course set menu priced at B3,999++ per person, or the five-course set menu priced at B5,199++ per person. www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com

FEBRUARY 23-25 For some unforgettable star-studded dining in February Vertigo Too (60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok) will host celebrated restaurateur Chef Diego Campos (left) and his son Ruben Campos. For three consecutive nights Bangkok diners can savour the intriguing and satisfying flavours of the father-and-son chef team's Spanish and Catalan inspired cuisine. This 4-course set menu will also be available with paired wines. For more information and reservations, call 02 679 1200. www.banyantree.com

MARCH 3-5 Eat your way around the world at the Bangkok Gourmet Festival, which will take over the Royal Paragon Hall (5F, Siam Paragon) at the beginning of March. Gathering top international and local chefs, the fair will feature live cooking demonstrations and workshops, showcasing various gastronomic cuisines—from fine dining to authentic Thai fare. Admission is B200 per day. www.bangkokgourmetfestival.com

MARCH 25-26 For two days the Gourmet Foodie Fest 2017 will gather the talent from some of Bangkok’s best restaurants at EmQuartier. Foodies can look forward to an array of delicious food stalls, tasting menus, and recipe demonstrations by chefs, as well as informative workshops. www.facebook.com/gourmetfoodiefest

COMING SOON For more fine dining later this year, head south to the island of Phuket and visit the inaugural Phuket Food & Wine event. Set to take place at the Royal Phuket Marina’s international exhibition centre (RPMIEC). In addition to the exhibition, customers can also look forward to an engaging programme of food and lifestyle activities throughout the three days, including a gourmet farmers’ market, charity dinner, and live cooking demonstrations. www.phuketfoodandwine.com

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CITY PULSE | out & about

Hoy tod

Street Food Odyssey A guide to some of Bangkok’s best roadside restos By Chawadee Nualkhair

n Bangkok street food is a big deal. And it’s not just an easy stop on the sidewalk on the way to the office, or a convenient snack after a night out drinking—it’s a way for skillful vendors to earn up to 30 times more than the minimum wage, for women with young children to join the workforce easily, and for people of modest means to feed themselves economically. Little wonder, then, that Bangkok boasts an estimated 500,000 street food stalls set up at 683 points throughout the city. And, of course, it’s a surefire way to establish your street cred as a bona fide ‘Local’ with a capital “L”. Ask any Bangkokian about where to find the best egg noodles or curry rice, and crack open the friendly reserve that usually greets any visitor to the Land of Smiles. Thais are happy to debate the merits of this or that vendor—whether trading amulets at the local coffee shop, or in line at the bank, or even over wine at the finest French restaurant in town. It’s the Bangkok equivalent of showing your support for the home team. Yet many Thais—even now, even still—find it hard to believe that visitors to the City of Angels would deign to sit on a plastic stool just a few meters from oncoming traffic, slurping on the same soup noodles that inspire the devotion of hundreds of Bangkokians every day. 34 | F EBRUA RY 2017

Since eating on the streets is considered a uniquely Thai pastime, maybe Thais forget that sharing a street food meal is the easiest, and still the best, way to insert yourself into the fabric of local life. Here, some of Bangkok’s best places to go for a roadside nosh: CHINATOWN: Few discussions of Bangkok street food are complete without a mention of Chinatown, known as “Yaowarat” among locals. Considered the birthplace of Thai street food, Yaowarat Road was the nexus for Thailand’s burgeoning Chinese community, which started immigrating to the country en masse in the 1800s. Luckily for Thai cuisine, the Chinese brought with them new cooking techniques, like stir-frying, deep-frying, and making broth, as well as novel uses for ingredients such as duck and eggs in savoury dishes. And of course, they brought with them noodles! To this day, the vast bulk of Thai street food is Chinese-inspired: anything with noodles, chicken rice, congee, roast duck, barbecued pork, or black sesame dumplings in ginger syrup. Perhaps, most fortunately, the Chinese brought us oyster omelets (hoy tod), thin layers of egg and flour bearing a quickly stir-fried harvest of fresh oysters and flavoured with lashings of sweet chili bangkok101.com

out & about | CITY PULSE sauce. When it comes to this dish, no Chinatown vendor is as celebrated as Nai Mong Hoy Tod (539 Soi Prapachai, open daily 11am-9:30pm), which offers a choice between oysters (hoy nangrom) and mussels (hoy mangpu), either soft and comfortingly gloopy (nim), or buoyant and crispy (grob). They also make a mean crab fried rice (khao pad pu) for the oyster-averse. BANGLAMPHU: When visitors think of Bangkok, chances are they are thinking of the “Old Town”, also known as Banglamphu. Named after the big trees that once lined the city’s many canals—earning Bangkok the nickname “Venice of the East”—this neighbourhood hosts some of the city’s most memorable landmarks, such as the Royal Palace, the Chinese Swing, and the Champs Elyseeslike Rachadamnern Road, as well as many of Bangkok’s most famous and longstanding street food vendors. Because of the mosque in the neighbourhood, Banglamphu is also a longtime center for the city’s Thai-Muslim community. Comprising only about 5 percent of Thailand’s population, Thai-Muslims actually form the majority in the country’s three southernmost provinces— Yala, Narathiwat, and Pattani. That Southern location is the reason for the trademarks of good Thai-Muslim cuisine: plenty of dried spices, a pronounced Malay influence, and rich, strong flavours. All of that is on display at Aisa Rot Dee (at the beginning of Thanee Rd, open daily 8am-5pm, except on the 4th Monday of the month). It’s a literal hole-in-the-wall that magically broadens out into a secret courtyard, offering everything from satay and meatballs, to soup noodles and biryani. Standouts are the chicken biryani with a tart, bracing oxtail soup, and curried beef noodles.

SUKHUMVIT: Sukhumvit is more readily associated with Bangkok’s hipster whisky bars and Japanese eateries, but as with anything in the city, good stuff can be found if you look hard enough. Even though a few of the neighbourhood’s most well-regarded street food vendors have been forced to pull up roots (such as the night market at Sukhumvit Soi 38), some continue to serve loyal customers the same specialties that wowed diners decades ago. For the past 40 years or so, Guaythiew Pik Gai Sainampung (392/20 Sukhumvit, between Sois 18 and 20, open daily 9am-3:30pm) is all about its namesake dish: chicken wing noodles in a fragrant, toothsome broth that comes adorned with cowslip creeper blossoms—if you come by early enough. The usual rice noodle options (thick, thin, egg, glass vermicelli) are available, but if you are looking for something a little different, try the Chinesestyle giem ee, a thick, hand-rolled noodle reminiscent of German spätzle. PETCHBURI: Few visitors to Bangkok would say they are drawn to this bustling, largely blue-collar section of town. But unbeknownst to many, a swath of Petchburi Road close to the Ratchthewi intersection is known informally as “Isaan central”, thanks to the handful of Northeastern Thai eateries catering to the homesick Isaan Thais calling this part of Bangkok home. Fancy a bite of “grilled pig uterus”? Maybe a bit of ant’s egg spicy soup, or barbecued pork intestine? Chances are, you will find those very specific specialties on Petchburi Road between Sois 11 and 15, cooked with all the fire and acidity of a dish back in Ubon Ratchathani.

Aisa Rot Dee

Aisa Rot Dee bangkok101.com

Guaythiew Pik Gai Sainampung F EBRUA RY 2017 | 35

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

IN CASE YOU MISSED IT These neighbourhoods are frequently overlooked by visitors new to Bangkok’s street food scene. Trawl through one (or two, or three) of them to see what you may have been missing.

Jay Dang

Joke Samyan Among the most popular Isaan vendors on the sidewalk is Jay Dang (Petchburi Rd, across the street from Soi 7, open daily after 5:30pm). Renowned the neighbourhood over for its juicy grilled chicken thighs, fermented Thai anchovy-speckled green papaya salads, mint-crowned larbs (minced meat salads), and, perhaps most deliciously, salt-encrusted snakehead fish stuffed with herbs, split open to reveal tender flesh. Accompany all with a big bottle of Singha beer and a plate of sticky rice. SAM YAN: One of the most rapidly changing neighbourhoods over the past few years is Sam Yan, a lively wet market area that is slowly-but-surely being redeveloped by current landlord Chulalongkorn University. Of the many vendors that once called this area home, only a handful remain, but few are as famous the city over as Joke Samyan (Chula Soi 11, open daily 5am-9am, and 3:30pm-9pm). The street food staple of joke, or Chinese-style congee, is prized for the silkiness of its broken-down rice grains, gained through hours of careful stirring. But, as with anything else adapted by Thais, this dish has been given a flavourful spin with additions like pickled peppers in vinegar, fish sauce, slivered ginger, coriander, and spring onion. At Joke Samyan, the vendor goes a step further with its peppery pork meatballs, considered the most popular item on the menu and irresistible when paired with a single egg, cooked gently by the heat of the porridge. If you are especially ambitious and visiting for breakfast, stop across the alleyway to buy a freshly cooked bag of patongko (deep-fried Chinese-style crullers) for dipping into your joke. Because this area is being gentrified, Joke Samyan will be expected to find a new home in three years’ time, so rush to this very famous shophouse vendor while you still can. 36 | F EBRUA RY 2017

VICTORY MONUMENT: Perhaps no neighbourhood in Bangkok is as inextricably linked with a street food dish as Victory Boat Noodle Monument is with “boat noodles” (guaythiew rua), so named because they were once served by floating vendors from their sampans. While some vendors of the noodles—served nam tok, or flavoured by the juices dripping from pork or beef as they cook—opened their doors far from the canals they used to work, some set up shop along the canal near the northeast exit of Victory Monument’s traffic circle, thereby birthing the neighbourhood’s famous “boat noodle alley”. ARI: This up-and-coming neighbourhood has been making headlines for the trendy cafes and bars that have opened doors Maliwan Kanom Thai here recently. Although Sois 1-3 feature a mass of vendors offering the usual streetside favourites (egg noodles, pad Thai, and roti with spun sugar floss), arguably the most famous vendor here is 30-year-old Maliwan Kanom Thai at the beginning of Soi 1. The Thai desserts here are the draw, especially the layered kanom chan made with rice flour and coconut, available in green, brown and purple. WANG LANG: In the shadow of the famous Siriraj Hospital is one of the best centers for Southern Thai food outside of Southern Khao Yum Phad Sator Thailand. Fiercely spicy and centered around nam prik (chili dips) and seafood, Southern Thai cuisine is a particularly popular segment of street food, as visitors to the south side of Phran Nok Road will attest. Here, the street is lined by several longstanding Southern Thai vendors, all serving favourites like massaman curry, stir-fried sator (stinkbeans), and khao yum (an herbal rice salad).

bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Fruit on the vine, at PB Valley Estate winery in Khao Yai 36 | F EBRUA RY 2017

bangkok101.com

insight | SNAPSHOTS

On Wine with Thai Food I am neither a wine connoisseur, nor well versed when describing wines—such as it has “flavours of red berries and chocolate, and the nose with a hint of leather”. I rarely remember the names of the winemakers, appellations, and vintages. However, as a restaurateur, I have attended several wine-tasting events and have to recommend wines to my customers. Thais customarily drink fresh, cold water, soft drinks, fruit juices, or iced tea with our food. So do any wines really go with Thai food? The complexity of Thai flavours makes pairing wines challenging. Each and every dish in Thai cuisines varies with respect to region, style of cooking, and copious usage of fragrant herbs and spices. Most Thai salads and soups tend to blend the classic four flavours of sweet, sour, salty, and slightly bitter, with soupçon of spiciness. Curries and other full-flavoured dishes overwhelm the delicateness of wine. Diverse flavoursome ingredients with lots of umami—such as fish sauce, shrimp paste, and coconut milk—do not play well on the palate when paired with wines. Therefore, most diners tend to drink ice-cold beer with these

Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com

dishes. Conversely, neither pale ale nor cloudy wheat beer can appease the heat. They only contrast the fiery, sweltering effects. Traditionally, Thais dine and share an ensemble of dishes simultaneously in banquet style, unlike the succession of courses in European cuisines. So the robust array of food makes it difficult to find one or two perfect matches for the whole meal. A sommelier told me that the rules of enjoying wine are not set in stone and one should drink what one likes. Even so, some say that pairing the food with wine from the same culture is the best and simplest rule. Thai wines thus offer new alternatives. Although the local wine industry has yet to fully mature, some may be better than most perceive. Therefore, matching Thai food and Thai wines should be experimented further. Since a Thai meal mixes white and red meats from appetizers to soups and main courses, the rules of colour matching do not successfully work here. So think about what are in the main dishes—whether seafood or meat—and what you like to drink. Then choose your wine. Most appetizers and salads would match well with aromatic, floral, fruity, white grape varieties such as the Alsatian and German wines—Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Viognier or other Burgundy whites. With naturally high acidity, they cleanse and cool the palate while coping with strong spices and chillies. These wines, and sweet Tokay, are also great with intensely sugary Thai desserts. Bright, crisp, and fragrant Sauvignon Blanc complements and enhances the complex flavours of sourness but may not withstand the heat. Champagne and sparkling wines also work well, as they help cleanse the palate and cut the oils and heat with bubbles. Fizzy Prosecco and champagne cocktails are light and balance comfortably with seafood and salad dishes. Rosé wines, with their vibrant and refreshing flavours and sweet aromas, can weave through and harmonize the chaos of concoctions,

from amuse-bouches to desserts. Though, this makes me think of the days when Mateus Rosé was popular and drunk with all kinds of food— including Chinese! Here are more groups of white grapes that excellently suit Asian flavours. The Austrian Grüner Veltliner presents a versatile and trendy match with its dry, tangy flavours, and less acidity. Chilled Chardonnay synchronizes well with low alcohol content and high acids to help cleanse the oiliness. These acidic wines swim well with salty food. Un-oaked and fruity wines survive well with most spicy dishes, while Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris both support the sourness in the food because flat and lowacidity wine will be overwhelmed by sour salads and soups. I often hear conflicting responses when it comes to having red wine with Thai food. Red wines certainly have their limitations because spices dominate them and the tannins disagree with the accented flavours and ingredients. However, some meat and curry dishes can create compromising liaisons with the reds. Pinot noir, light Shiraz, Côtes du Rhône, Grenache and some Burgundy varieties with their sweet, berry flavours, soft tannins, and silky smoothness fare well with alluring spices, chilli heat, and even with fish and seafood dishes. However, please don’t waste the finest bottles of big Bordeaux blends and powerful Australian Shiraz with either overshadowing spices or delicate seafood. Some diners want to be seen as sophisticated and would bring a bottle of Château Pétrus to have with steamed fish or a “super Tuscan” to have with pizza. Both wine and food are ruined from their ostentatiousness. Wining like this is not très chic, but rather tragic. The ancient saying, “in vino veritas” (meaning “in wine, truth”), exposes our true personality through the influence of alcohol. Like our real thoughts and desires, authentic Thai flavours can be revealed by wellchosen wines. F EBRUA RY 2017 | 37

SNAPSHOTS | highlight

On the Night Joey Ramone Died

In Part III of our exclusive extract from Jim Algie’s new book, a fallen rock star wonders if his love life is as expired as the life of his musical mentor By Jim Algie

he change happened as slowly and mysteriously as a wrinkle appearing on his face. Lek couldn’t remember how old he was—thirty-nine? forty-one?—when the Thai-Chinese girls in his local shop began calling him “uncle” instead of “older brother”. Only around then did he first notice that younger women were looking at him, if they looked at him at all, in a different way. It was difficult to read the expression on their faces and in their eyes. Was it something maternal? Was it mockery or contempt? Some kind of fear that he was an aging lecher? Indifference or pity? Maybe it was some mixture of these emotions that he’d never seen before. Whatever it was, he was far beyond the young man’s fantasy of seeing his fascination or desire reflected in their eyes. For his age, Lek didn’t think he looked that bad. Not for a musician who’d played as many sold-out concerts, done as many drugs and downed as many drinks. At the very least, he had never displayed the most overt warning signs of ageing, heterosexual males: letting their wives or girlfriends pick out their clothes for them, or looking so slovenly and unfashionable that he wished they had a woman to pick out their clothes for them. Yet nothing he did, not the workouts, the facials, the expensive haircuts, or abstaining from drink and drugs, seemed to help: the ruts corrugating his forehead continued to deepen; the iron filings kept salting and peppering his black hair; and

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highlight | SNAPSHOTS younger women continued regarding him in this strange way. It wasn’t until three years after his divorce, when he volunteered to let his son practice his new interest in psychology and relationship counseling on him, that Lek realized he’d reached a turning point of no return. Getting his twenty-year-old son to advise him on women? This could only be the onset of a full-blown, mid-life calamity. “Do you think your teacher and I formed some kind of connection right from the beginning?” asked Lek. “In about two minutes I’d say.” “That’s all it took? I guess so. After that I couldn’t seem to stop it.” “You could have, but you didn’t want to.” “That was my fault?” “Both parties are to compliment or blame in any love affair.”

Bizarre

Thailand

Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) and On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin Tales of Rock ‘n’ Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway (2016). The photo above is from Jim’s last tour of musical duty in Europe with his band the Asexuals, and was used on the 2001 album “Greater Than Later.” bangkok101.com

“Is that what it was? I’m not sure it was love or even an affair.” “Could you please stop pacing the room and chain-smoking and have a seat on Dr. Dee Dee’s couch? Good. Thank you. Now let’s go back to the beginning when she came over for my first conversation class.” “Doctor, didn’t she seem kind of obnoxious to you at first? I mean, polite and obnoxious.” “Sir, were you or were you not wearing ripped jeans, a studded leather belt, and a T-shirt for the death metal band Cannibal Corpse?” “Are you supposed to be a relationship counselor or a prosecuting attorney?” They traded smirks. “Answer the question, please.” “Oh, I see where you’re going with this. You mean, right from the start I gave her a license to say and do pretty much what she wanted.” “Exactly. That was your first, and maybe your most powerful, connection. So let’s rewind…” Lek was going to make another pot of Dragon Well Green Tea when Dee Dee walked into the penthouse with a petite blond. “This is my new conversation teacher, Professor Edana,” he said to Lek in Thai. He turned to her. “This is my father, Lek,” he said in English. Immediately she smiled and put both of her palms together and raised them in front of her face. She said hello and asked him how he was in Thai. Not many foreigners pulled off the greeting and sang the correct tones like Edana did. Most of the ones Lek had met didn’t even bother trying. Her performance was all the more impressive when he recalled Dee Dee telling him that she’d only lived in Bangkok for a few months. Because of their size, white women had often intimidated him, but Edana was a few

inches shorter than he was and just as slender.“Nice to meet you, Khun Lek,” she said. A smile split open his dark and leathery features. “Cool to meet you too. Lek is fine. I try not to put on any airs or graces.” Dee Dee rolled his eyes and said, “I need to start the class soon. I got shit to do tonight.” “Saying ‘shit’ around your teacher is not that polite. You could use ‘things’ or ‘stuff,’ you know.” “That’s okay. I talk shit all the time.” Edana’s smile forced her dimples out of hiding. Until then Lek hadn’t realized how pretty she was, nor how a smile filled those big blue eyes with pinpricks of light. Her voice rose. “So let’s get the fucking class started, shall we?” Her laughter was surprisingly girlish. Shaking his head and grinning, Dee Dee said to his father in Thai, “Remember? I told you she’s cool.” Edana pressed her knuckles against her hips and glared at him like a schoolmarm. “No speaking Thai in my classes.” She softened the rebuke by smiling at them, first Lek, then his son; she understood the Thai hierarchy too. For such a pixie, Edana had a commanding presence that she turned on and off at will. Lek was mesmerized by this tiny woman with the big mouth and long platinum hair, fine as a child’s and parted to one side, so he couldn’t think of anything to say, until he finally managed, “Excuse me, but where are you from? I can’t put… I can’t place your accent at all, and I’ve never heard the name Edana before.” “I’ve lived all over the world, but I grew up in a tiny village in the mountains of Norway where it can rain or snow for almost thirty days straight.”

Jim Algie’s new book, On the Night Joey Ramone Died, is now available from www.amazon.com in print or as an e-book. It combines rock ‘n’ punk history and debauchery, with doses of autobiography from his own musical career, in a pair of interlinked novellas that chart the highs and lows of a Thai rock star’s career as he approaches middle age, faces his own mortality and tries to balance his work and family life. The settings range from recording studios in Bangkok to gigs in New York and drug parties on tour, with scenes that details the difficulties of songwriting, keeping a band together and staying on top in a cutthroat business that causes many stars to come crashing down to earth and hitting rock bottom. See www.jimalgie.club for a full rundown. F EBRUA RY 2017 | 39

SNAPSHOTS | highlight

Hoi-Tod Chaw-Lae

Treasure Hunting

To celebrate all things food-related in this issue, here are some of my favourite ‘hidden’ Thai food joints By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

angkok easily ranks among the top five cities in the world for street food, with someone tossing a blackened pan over bright flames on virtually every corner of the capital. Quality is generally high everywhere you go, but over the years I’ve collected a number of favourites which the average tourist probably won’t stumble across on their own. In the midst of tony community malls and hairdressers on Soi Thonglor, Hoi-Tod Chaw-Lae (Soi Thonglor, about 100m from Sukhumvit Rd on the left) lays out expertly prepared fresh seafood platters based upon fresh 4 0 | F EBRUA RY 2017

oysters from Ang Sila and mussels from Pak Nam. The hawy malaeng phoo thawt (Chinese-Thai-style mussel omelet) here is the crispiest rendition I’ve seen anywhere. Phad Thai is given special treatment here by marinating fresh shrimp with sour plums, then batter-frying them to create a crispy raft to support the noodles, yellow tofu, and garlic chives. At Pa Aew (Maha Rat Rd, in front of the Krung Thai Bank), a modest foodstall in Ko Ratanakosin near Wat Pho, an elderly auntie ladles rich, spicy central Thai dishes onto plates of steamed rice. Here I recommend

plaa phat phrik khing, chunks of fresh fish and sliced green beans stir-fried in a ginger-chili paste, and kung thawt krathiam, jumbo shrimp pan-fried in plentiful garlic. Khao Khluk Kapi Phra Athit (Phra Athit Rd), near world-renowned backpacker haven Khao San Road, serves one of Thai cuisine’s most classic specialties—a pungent blend of rice tossed with shrimp paste, green mango, egg, sweet pork, and Chinese sausage. The accompanying bowl of peppery soup is equally impressive. One of the few Bangkok vendors to cook good khao soy, a Yunnanesebangkok101.com

influenced northern Thai dish of squiggly egg noodles served in a mild curry broth, is Yuy Lee (Sukhumvit Soi 31). I also enjoy the shop’s khanom jeen naam ngiaw, rice noodles doused in a sweet-sour-savory sauce of freshground tomatoes and pork blood. Another northern Thai dish hard to find in Bangkok is khanom jeen sao nam, thin rice noodles topped with coconut cream, dried shrimp, slivered pineapple, ginger, and garlic. Somsong Phochana (Samsen Soi 1) near the river does this dish proud, along with kuaytiaw sukhothai, rice noodles swimming in a tangy tom yam broth with sliced pork, minced pork, boiled egg, and long beans. The single cook-owner at Jay Fai (327 Maha Chai Rd), a petite, energetic woman in her 70s, turns out an amazing kuaytiaw phat kee mao thalay. Literally ‘drunkard’s seafood noodles’, this dish features thick rice noodles tossed in a super-hot, charcoal-fired wok with fresh squid, fish, prawns, fresh veggies, palm heart, mushrooms, holy basil, and fiery chopped chilies. I also love the crab omelet here. Bring plenty of cash, as it’s not as cheap. Operated by the same family since 1927, authentically vintage Eiah Sae (103-105 Phat Sai Rd, off Yaowarat Rd, tel. 02 221 0549) roasts and grinds its

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

Photo by Megan Rogers

highlight | SNAPSHOTS

Soi Polo fried chicken

Khao Soy

Khanom jeen naam ngiaw

own robusta blend to brew a strong cup of Hokkien-style coffee, served with condensed milk. Thick, charcoalgrilled toast served with tasty coconutegg custard, coddled eggs, or butter and sugar, rounds out the experience. Hidden away inside a one-story concrete bunker amid the embassies and high-rises of Wireless Rd, Sanguan Sri (59/1 Withayu Rd) has been a Thai culinary landmark for generations. The food comes straight out of the bosom of a Thai granny: green curry, soup with glass noodles and minced pork, crispy dried fish salad, crisp-fried noodles with chicken and Chinese gravy, and other traditional fare. Kai Thawt Jay Kee (137/1-3 Soi Polo, off Withayu Rd, tel. 01 252 2252), more commonly known as ‘Soi Polo Fried Chicken’, does what I firmly believe is Bangkok’s best Thai-style fried chicken. The bird is fried whole, to keep the meat juicy, then hacked to pieces just before serving. It’s packed during lunch and dinner, and sends out hundreds of delivery boxes of takeaway on a good day. Order a side

of somtam, spicy green papaya salad, available in both Lao and Thai styles, a spicy-tangy tom saep soup, and sticky rice, served in traditional lidded baskets. A legend in expat circles, Royal India (392/1 Chakphet Rd, tel. 02 221 6565) is barely visible from Chakphet Rd in Little India, huddling in the shadows of a small alley. Honest, authentic dishes from northern India draw a crowd at lunchtime, when local Indian residents share tables with Thai office workers and travellers from different continents. Those in the know request achar, a pungent, fiery mango-chili jam, to take hot curries to the next level. Finally, Naaz (Charoen Krung Soi 43) serves some of the city’s richest khao mok kai (chicken biryani) from a small living-room kitchen. The milk tea is exemplary, and daily specials include chicken masala and mutton korma. Another house speciality is firni, a Middle Eastern pudding spiced with coconut, almonds, cardamom and saffron. F EBRUA RY 2017 | 41

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Nang Kwak

The beckoning lady brings business and love

“T

hose who don’t ask, don’t get” runs the English proverb and Thai shopkeepers aren’t shy to ask for more custom. One of the most unambiguous of all the Thai trade talismans is nang kwak (beckoning lady). Soliciting business at restaurants, shops and stalls, she’s often seen on counters near the till or door, and was originally kept in a moneybag. Dressed in traditional costume and crown, she sits Thai-style—legs tucked in to the right, left hand on floor or thigh—her right arm half-raised to beckon with her palm facing down. Were nang kwak’s fingers rudely pointing up, trade would suffer. Done by men, beckoning upward picks a fight; done by women, it’s a raunchy signal to “come hither”. Actually, nang kwak does have a sexy side. Like many amulets, she doubles as a love charm, though in the form of leaves from the plant of the same name. Nang kwak is among a class of waan yaa (herbal medicinal amulets), wrote Phya Anuman Rajadhon. “Whoever desires a magnetic charm in himself or herself for love or kindness, smears the face and body with waan nang kwak accompanied by the recitation of ‘Namo Buddhaya’ 108 times.” Though arcane, the practice persists. “In junior high school half a dozen girls in my class would wrap nang kwak leaves in a handkerchief to place in their top pocket to find a boyfriend,” recalls Chatchai Ngoenprakairat of the early 1990s. A few men likewise pocket a waan sao long (‘infatuated girl’ herb) leaf or wash in Waan Sao Long brand herbal soap to attract women. Coloured red or green with a white centre, nang kwak leaves curl down—an auspicious trait seen as beckoning. Their power was extended by carving a beckoning figure from the herb’s tuber root. It must be found in the wild and dug up only after offering liquor, betel and other goodies to the spirits. Over time, the sculptures were enlarged and executed in ivory, bronze, clay or a particular wood. Most elegant in gold leafed black lacquer, they’re often now plaster or plastic, moulded and painted with the same

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 42 | F EBRUA RY 2017

imprecision as spirit house figures, among whom nang kwak sometimes sits. “To carve nang kwak it is advisable to wear a white suit and finish within one day,” Sombat Plainoi cautions. Shamanic medicine was inseparable from magic, hence the mystic letters engraved on the body: bhogam (left hand), jana (right hand), du (left breast), sa (right breast), ma (forehead) and ni (back), which combine into the spell “bhogam jana du sa ma ni” (meaning ‘heart treasure’) uttered in 108 incantations. Today, fewer nang kwak get inscribed, but they still require blessing by a monk, medium or shaman in order to turn the figurine into an amulet. Just as leaves wither, so magic wears off. To top it up requires a daily offering of popped rice, candles, garlands and scented paste while reciting the Maha Ongkarn spell. All this hassle leads many to adopt a similar Japanese talisman, the maneki-neko, a beckoning cat. It’s happy with simple snacks and sweets and needs no invocations. Matching nang kwak’s pose, purpose and position, the maneki-neko raises the right paw for luck in general, the left for financial fortune. “The maneki-neko had gone global by the end of the 20th century,” Nicholas Bornoff writes. “Outside Japan you’re more likely to see the maneki-neko in Chinese stores and restaurants than in their Japanese equivalent.” So are these two mascots related? Nang kwak, which originated in a local herb, evidently evolved through ancient indigenous shamanism. She’s unlikely to have been inspired by maneki-neko, which appeared in Edo in the early 17th century, just after Japan made contact with Ayutthaya. But maybe the beckoning cat is a Nipponese nang kwak. Perhaps in response to the import, nang kwak statuettes are getting less fussily detailed. Some day she may get a cute toon girl makeover. A bridal shop one made out of a mannequin has become a muse to Thai artists: Sakharin Krue-on projected her in pop animation, and Pan Pan Narkprasert remodelled her as a Beckoning Lady Gaga.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

The House on Sathorn

Historic Dining

Exploring the heritage restaurants around Silom and Sathorn By Luc Citrinot

t times there’s no need to spend a fortune in Bangkok to enjoy a delicious food experience in a tradition-rich heritage house. In fact, there are many places offering superb food in a historical atmosphere—where history and heritage match perfectly with gastronomy and good times, providing a unique Bangkok experience. HARMONIQUE: This is the best kept secret of the staff of the nearby French Embassy, as Harmonique (22, Charoen Krung Soi 34) is located just a street away, in a miniscule soi in the vicinity of the Grand Post Office. The first impression might not be the best, as the atmosphere here is stuffy, dusty, and dark. In truth, the place looks like the hundreds of other Chinese-Thai shophouses in Chinatown that barely have changed over the last 50 years. Outside it’s adorned with plenty of dark yellow colouring, but once inside

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an inner courtyard welcomes visitors, and it’s suddenly more like entering into a countryside mansion. Plants are everywhere, birds are singing, and tables are disposed in around the old terraces and on the patio. Diners who prefer to be seated inside can marvel at the original furniture pieces dating from the 1920s to the 1950s. It is like a trip back in time. Meanwhile the specialties—a lot made from pork—are never changing, and these exquisite tastes are available at extremely reasonable prices. Open Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm (Tel: 02 237 8175). SATHORN MANSION: More commonly known nowadays as The House on Sathorn, this is one of the last, and one of the most exquisite, 100-year old mansions built along Sathorn Road. Constructed in 1914, in a typical neo-renaissance Italianate style, the property belonged to

Thai nobleman Luang Sathorn. The magnificent mansion, with its arcade courtyard, became a hotel in the 1920s, before becoming—for almost half a century—the Embassy of the Soviet Union (and then Russia). In 1999 the Russians sold the place, and it remained abandoned until a real estate tycoon decided to restore it and make it part of a new development called Sathorn Square. It was finally integrated into the newly constructed W Hotel (106 North Sathorn Rd), and has since been used as a prestigious venue for special events as well as for being an exclusive wine and cocktail bar where friendly handsome barmen—Italian of course!—mix drinks and blend in ideally the surroundings. Upon entering, the eye can’t help but be drawn to the architectural details, such as the elegant wooden panels, carved ceilings, chandeliers, painted walls, and the classical columns. Tea is available every bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS afternoon around the courtyard, while lunch and dinner are also available with Chef Fatih Tutak serving “progressive Asian cuisine”. A delight which comes, however, with a suitably upscale price tag. But it is indeed a special privilege to drink or eat in the same place where the Soviet Ambassador used to stay. Open daily from noon until midnight (Tel: 02 344 4000). www.thehouseonsathorn.com NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST: It’s impossible to miss this place, with its flashy façade of bright pink. The house that is home to the Namsaah Bottling Trust (401, Silom Soi 7) is almost 100 years-old and is built mixing Italian architectural details—so much appreciated by Siam’s upper class a century ago—with some typical early Art Deco geometric motifs. The house has played numerous roles: as a residence of a royal aide-de-camp; a soda company’s bottling office (giving the current name); and later being turned into the headquarters of a bank. It’s current incarnation, a nightlife hotspot where Art Deco meets psychedelia, is the brainchild of Thai celebrity Chef Ian Kittichai, former

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

Namsaah Bottling Trust

Blue Elephant

Harmonique

diplomat and art gallery expert Jeremy Opritesco, music impresario Frederic Meyer, and nightlife guru Justin Dunne. The place is decorated like the grand home of an eccentric aesthete. The interior’s eye-candy mixes old furniture from the 1930s to the 1950s with contemporary pieces, old Asian antiques, and plenty of flashy colours. It’s at once decadent, weird, fun, and highly enjoyable. And, of course, there is amazing food and drink to experience, with Asian fusion dishes and incredible cocktails all showing the kitchen team’s unbridled creativity. Definitely a place not to be missed. Open daily from 5pm to 2am (Tel: 02 636 6622). www.namsaah.com NOTE: If you like this place, the same core team is behind the renowned Issaya Siamese Club (4 Soi Sri Aksorn), a fabulous restaurant set in a historical 1920s Thai home, offering brightly coloured interiors and tropical gardens.

‘Bombay Burmah Trading Company’ (mostly involved in the commerce of teak wood), and turned it into a dining establishment. The building had previously been taken over by the Chinese Thai Chamber of Commerce in the 1930s, but the Italianate neo-renaissance villa—complete with some Venetian gothic detail—needed some careful restoration before it became, in 2002, the seat of the Blue Elephant Cooking School and adjacent restaurant. According to Sandra Chandra Steppe—daughter of Thai celebrity Chef Nooror Somany, and head of communication and marketing for the restaurant—the Blue Elephant is truly committed to preserve not only the tradition of Thai royal and haute cuisine, but also the cultural heritage of Siam. “My father collects many antiques and we just put them inside of the restaurant to show the exquisite skills of Thai craftsmen in former centuries,” she explains. Tasting Blue Elephant’s cuisine— there is a special sample menu during lunch time which is easily affordable— gives one a chance to also admire the century-old pieces of art in an old heritage mansion setting. In many ways this is Bangkok at its best! Open daily from 11:30am to 2:30pm, and 6pm to 10:30pm (Tel: 02 673 9353). www.blueelephant.com

BLUE ELEPHANT: All the highest honours of marrying fine gastronomy and historical preservation should go to the Blue Elephant company, the first to seamlessly blend together all these elements. Over 15 years ago the owners took over the magnificent mansion at 233 South Sathorn Rd, which used to serve in its early day as the headquarters of the British

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The wild elephants of Khao Yai National Park can sometimes be spotted crossing the roads 46 | F EBRUA RY 2017

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| TRAVEL

KHAO YAI 101 K

HAO YAI is Thailand’s oldest and most visited nature reserve. It’s home to one of the largest intact monsoon forests remaining in mainland Asia, which is why it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK is in the western part of the Sankamphaeng mountain range, at the southwestern boundary of the Khorat Plateau. The highest mountain in the area of the park is KHAO ROM, measuring 1,351 meters at its summit. Even though it covers an area of over 2,000 sq.km, a region that stretches over four provinces—Nakhon Ratchasima, Saraburi, Prachin Buri and Nakhon Nayok—Khao Yai is not the largest national park in Thailand (it ranks 3rd in size). The terrain here includes tropical seasonal forests and grasslands, and the park is home to thousands of species of plants, hundreds of species of birds, and dozens of species of mammals, including bears, elephants, monkeys, bats, deer, and wild pigs, as well as quite a few snakes, lizards, and other creepy crawlies. There are over 50 km of hiking trails in the park, ranging from easy to hard, and from one hour up to three days. The trails on the map from the visitor’s center will only have the easier trails marked, and a guide is recommended for most trails if you’re not an experienced trekker. But there’s more to Khao Yai than just wilderness walks. In recent years the area has become a fashionable residential retreat. It’s just a 2-3 hour drive from the urban jungle of Bangkok— about 120 km northeast—and it boasts the 7th best ozone level in the world, which is why more and more uptight urbanites choose it as their weekend unwinding spot. And for those with enough green to afford this much green, it’s now the fashionable place to have a weekend villa, vacation house, or condo. With this surge in the number of visitors has come a surge in the number of tourist attractions one can find; some quaint, some quirky, and some downright questionable. From bizarre hotels (BAAN SUAN NOI is a Lord of the Rings-themed lodge where all the units are designed like Hobbit holes), to faux-Italian architecture (the PALIO VILLAGE community mall has been designed to resemble an Italian town square, while TOSCANA VALLEY is an exclusive residence property with an over-the-top Tuscan theme), to amusement parks with thrill rides and waterslides (SCENICAL WORLD has both), you won’t be starved for entertainment. You also won’t be starved for fine dining options as there are plenty of top-notch restaurants in this part of the kingdom (see pg. 59). To get to Khao Yai you can either drive (the best option), or take a bus or train from Bangkok to the town of PAK CHONG—the westernmost district of NAKHON RATCHASIMA province, and home to WAT THEP PHITHAK PUNNARAM. This temple houses a huge seated Buddha image that measures 27 meters wide by 45 meters high, which is enshrined on a mountaintop that can be reached via a 1,250 step staircase (representing the number of monks that gathered spontaneously to hear the Lord Buddha’s first sermon, an occasion that is commemorated on Makha Bucha Day).

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TRAVEL | focus on khao yai

The mountains of Khao Yai National Park

The Khao Yai Mythos Big Mountain just keeps getting bigger By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

henever Bangkokians say they’re going to Khao Yai, I always wonder which Khao Yai they mean. In fact, there’s no place in Thailand with that toponym. There is of course the famed national park, Thailand’s oldest and third largest at 2,000 sq.km, but there is no geographic feature in the park nor anywhere in the vicinity by that name. Nor is there any political entity— no village, town, or district—called ‘Khao Yai’. But there once was. In the early 1920s villagers from Nakhon Nayok Province established a settlement in the highlands of the Sankamphaeng mountain range. Perhaps because it was within view of Khao Rom, the highest mountain in the range, the Siamese government decided to call the emerging sub-district Khao Yai, which simply means “big mountain”. The fact that 1,351 meter Khao Rom barely makes a list of Thailand’s top 40 highest peaks didn’t faze the politicians. Not-So-Big Mountain didn’t have the same ring. Sadly, when the area started becoming a refuge for bandits hiding from law enforcement, the government relocated the villagers and canceled Khao Yai’s tambon status. The name ceased to exist in signage and documents. Enter Field Marshal Sarit Thanarat, self-appointed prime minister in power from 1959 to 1963, who ordered the creation of a national park system in part to keep wilderness areas off limits to both settlers

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and bandits. The heavily wooded mountain range surrounding the former Khao Yai sub-district, at that time home to a large population of wild tigers, bears, and elephants, became the first area in Thailand to receive national park status in 1962. Widely considered to be among the world’s greatest national reserves, Khao Yai National Park is found mostly within Nakhon Ratchasima Province boundaries, but also spills over into adjacent Saraburi, Prachinburi, and Nakhon Nayok provinces as well. Today some 200 to 300 wild elephants still tramp the park, along with gaur, wild pig, Malayan sun bear, Asiatic black bear, tiger, leopard, serow, and various gibbons and macaques. In general, these animals are most easily spotted during the rainy season from June to October, and yet most visitors come during the November to February cool season, when the climate is suited to trekking. Khao Yai also has Thailand’s largest population of hornbills, including the king of the bird kingdom, the great hornbill, as well as wreathed hornbill, Indian pied hornbill, and rhinoceros hornbill. The park has even earned a following among fans of Danny Boyle’s film The Beach, a Leonardo DiCaprio vehicle based on the Alex Garland novel of the same name, because the film’s waterfall diving scenes were shot at Haew Suwat Falls. bangkok101.com

focus on khao yai | TRAVEL

Sarit Thanarat

Chatchai Choonhavan

Somboonsuk Niyomsiri

By and large until the 1980s, if you mentioned Khao Yai, virtually everyone assumed you meant the park. Prime Minister Chatchai Choonhavan, a native of Nakhon Ratchasima Province, dubbed it ‘Thailand’s Switzerland’ in the late 80s, luring Bangkokians to the park in droves. The Tourism Authority of Thailand and associated government cronies began adding resorts and even a golf course inside the park to accommodate visitor demand. In 1992, citing uncontrolled growth and conflicts of interest, the Thai government did the right thing and ordered a ban on overnight stays in the park. Most tourist infrastructure, including a golf course and illegal TAT accommodation, were removed. And that’s when the meaning of ‘Khao Yai’ began expanding well beyond park boundaries. In fact, not limiting visitation to the park meant that virtually anywhere within a 150 km radius of the park—basically any area that shared the park terrain of green rolling hills and moderate climate—could be called Khao Yai. Easy access to such topography drew wealthy Thais who, having enjoyed the wine districts of France and Italy while on vacation, decided to dabble in viticulture here. To everyone’s amazement, the resulting ‘New Latitude Wines’ weren’t half bad. Over the years, Thai wines have won more than 100 awards, including gold medals at international wine competitions. Wineries established near Khao Yai today produce around 800,000 bottles of wine per annum (see pg 54 for more on Thai wineries). Touring the wineries joined jungle trekking, mountain biking, and wildlife-spotting as a prime tourist activity. Farms and ranches producing fresh beef, cheese, and other ‘European’ delights added yet another layer to bangkok101.com

the cake, later followed by lush golf courses and luxury housing developments. A smaller segment of the steady migration from Bangkok and other parts of Thailand includes a number of creative types from the film, music and art worlds. One of the most famous residents of Pak Chong district—the unofficial Khao Yai capital—is artist and filmmaker Somboonsuk Niyomsiri, more well known by his nickname Piak Poster. Starting his career as a talented painter of huge movie billboards, as well as posters, cut-outs, and midget cards, Piak went on to direct 29 films before he retired. Among his more memorable and ground-breaking Thai films were A Man Called Tone (1970), The Adulterer (1972), and Age of Disorder (1976). Piak moved to Khao Yai in 2007 to avail himself of the clean air and quiet, calm surroundings. When I visited the 83-year-old veteran director in his humble one-story Pak Chong home last year, he told me he had returned to painting, and showed me several large commissions in progress, mostly for commercial businesses. From the Thai music sphere, those most attracted to Khao Yai life seem to be those from the phleng pheua cheewit—folky, politically oriented ‘songs for life’—genre. For several years one of the biggest annual Khao Yai events was the Super Concert for Nature & Life, held at the edge of the national park. In 2009, the 13th year of the festival, I had the honour of playing guitar in legendary Keo Carabao’s band for a full set, alongside such other phleng pheua cheewit luminaries as Pongthep, Caravan, and Hammer. Many band members lived in the Khao Yai area part time. Meanwhile since 2010, the Big Mountain Music Festival has hosted indie and Thai pop bands for two nights and two days every October, with a changing location from year to year (see pg. 58 for more on upcoming music festivals in Khao Yai). A quieter, less visible Khao Yai subculture revolves around Buddhist meditation retreats. One of the more famed local Buddhists is Ajahn Jayasaro (right), an English monk with a lifetime of monastic experience in the northeastern Thailand forest tradition. Since 2003, Ajahn Jayasaro has been living quietly at a hermitage next to Khao Yai National Park, only occasionally emerging for public talks. Meanwhile Wat Thamkrissanan Dhammaram, a temple set amidst grasslands, farms, forest, and banana groves near Khao Yai National Park’s main gate, offers seven-day intensive retreats for the practice of vipassana—mindfulness meditation—every month, with instruction in both Thai and English. Every year on the first of January, Austrian nun Brigitte Schrottenbacher leads a special new year’s retreat here. In the end, ‘Khao Yai’ is a catch-all term to cover a whole sphere of activities you can do better amidst hills and valleys than in Bangkok. How about ‘Alt-Bangkok’? F EBRUA RY 2017 | 49

TRAVEL | focus on khao yai

Jungle Journeys

Trekking through Khao Yai Nationl Park, away from the crowds, offers some amazing natural attractions—just watch out for the leeches! Words and photos by Dave Stamboulis

et’s face it, when most Bangkokians think of Khao Yai, they imagine boutique stays, Tuscan themed estates, laid back folk festivals, vineyards and wine tastings, and leisurely sipping gourmet coffee while checking in on their latest Instagram postings. While these endeavours may serve as a solid slice of Bangkok detox, they aren’t my cup of proverbial coffee or tea. I go to Khao Yai to get sweaty and dirty, and to partake of one of Thailand’s greatest natural attractions—that of the magnificent national park responsible for all those resorts being right outside the gates. Most folks forget that less than half a century ago, Khao Yai served as a haven for fugitives and criminals, primarily due to its thick forest cover and flee-able distance from the authorities in Bangkok. The park has come a long way since then, becoming Thailand’s first national park, then an ASEAN Heritage Park, and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well (part of the greater Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Forest Complex). Home to more

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than 3,000 plant species, over 300 types of birds, and abundant wildlife, about the only trouble you’ll run into here these days is elephants not taking kindly to your car blocking their route—as a famed couple witnessed and photographed last year—as well as the aggressive beasts about one ten thousandth the size of elephants… the lamentable leeches. I started my Khao Yai sojourn by hooking up with Greenleaf Tours, a budget travel operator based out on the park entrance road that features a rather drab guesthouse aimed at the backpacker crowd, but makes up for the lack of good accommodation by offering over a decade’s worth of touring experience with some knowledgeable guides who get you into the jungle, as well as providing you with a pair of military duty-worthy leech socks to accompany your outing. While they don’t look pretty, the socks are highly effective in keeping the bloodsuckers at bay, especially considering the alternatives (some trekkers wear pantyhose, while others bangkok101.com

focus on khao yai | TRAVEL

wear nothing and end up resembling the cast on a vampire film set). While cool season trekking is pretty much leechfree, the rest of the year will be spent in the company of the harmless, yet annoying pests. Mr. Nine, Greenleaf’s premiere birding expert, is a guide extraordinaire. With his ornithological knowledge you’d think he was a zoology student, but he actually was a businessman in Bangkok who tired of the urban rat race, came up to Khao Yai to help out a friend, learned about the jungle, and took to it like wildfire—becoming a crack photographer and birder in the meantime as well. He arrives on each tour laden down with camera equipment, binoculars, and even has a telescope which he utilizes to help guests take photos through the scope, getting some magnificent bird close-ups. Within minutes, Nine is helping us spot bulbuls, broadbills, jungle fowl, coral-billed cuckoo’s, and the star attraction of the Khao Yai birdlife, the Great Hornbill. Not only are the hornbills easy to spot, especially with the aid of binoculars, but you stay relatively unscathed in doing so, not having to crawl, get into the underbrush, or mess up your post-trip latte drinking attire, as the birds stay up in trees and along cliff walls. This all changes however once you enter the jungle. The forest cover becomes dense, and as it had rained the night before on my trek, much of the trail was a quagmire, with my companions and I soon caked in mud once we’d made the inevitable slip. Navigating through a section of small trees, Nine pointed out a rock at the side of the trail, and looking under it, camouflaged by its moss-coloured skin, was a pit viper, one of the most deadly snakes around. Giving the venomous reptile plenty of space, I tiptoed my way down the trail, only to be frightened out of my wits by a chilling scream from the back of our party. Fearing the worst, I turned around, wondering if our guides were carrying any venom extraction kits. To my relief, as well as to the entire group’s amusement, bangkok101.com

it was our youngest female member doing the yelling, staring at her bloody toes, evidently penetrated by a few squiggling leeches. Assured that she wasn’t in any danger of expiration, she cleaned herself up, piped down, and we moved on. Officials claim that Khao Yai has the odd tiger hidden somewhere, but none have been spotted in years. You have better chances of seeing Asian black bears, Indian elephants, and even higher chances of seeing sambar deer, gaur, and the entertaining pig-tailed macaque monkeys which pose endlessly near the roads, thinking that if they strike a handsome enough pose, they might get something to eat. We came across several Lar gibbons, with beautiful white skin and long slender white hands contrasting with their dark black faces, swinging through F EBRUA RY 2017 | 51

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several tall trees in search of food. Too fast to photograph, they are the consummate forest Tarzan, with one of the highest forelimb to hindlimb proportions of all the primates—truly mesmerizing to watch in flight. We failed to spot any elephants from the viewing tower that allows visitors to look out over the jungle and the open savanna-like expanse of grass that surrounds it, but you have to be lucky—as well as probably spend at least two-three outings in the park—to start making any kind of fauna tick list. Khao Yai isn’t only about the animals though, as the landscape is quite impressive on its own. In the morning and late afternoons, the area can be covered with a light mist, giving the trees and rising mountains an eerie and “lost world” look. We stopped to check out Haew Suwat, the waterfall famed for the scene from the film The Beach in which Leonardo DiCaprio leaps over the top. Park rules prohibit you from doing the same, but the streams of water cascading over a circular pool are impressive nevertheless, and a nearby boulder you can walk out on makes for some dramatic (and wet) photo-ops. Further up the river, several of us jumped in and washed off all the forest mud, while performing a final leech inspection—lest we bring any unwanted souvenirs back to Bangkok. While the tours in Khao Yai don’t take in some of the attractions that lie further out, if you’ve got your own transport, and are willing to use your own steam, do make the effort to hike up to Haew Narok, by far the park’s most stunning waterfall. From an observation platform here you can watch the dramatic thundering muddy brown falls plunge over a 150 meter high cliff, most impressive during the height of the summer rainy season. 52 | F EBRUA RY 2017

Further on, you won’t find any crowds at Pha Diao Dai, a viewpoint up on a mountain ridge that overlooks the surrounding forest and mountains. You’ve got to trek 500 meters up a wooden walkway trail that the park service has constructed here, and despite the convenience, you will understand why they named the place as they did (diao dai translates to “solitude point”), as not many folks make it out to this tranquil spot. From my vantage point, I took in the misty jungle scenery, massaged my aching knees, and figured that trading lattes for leeches, at least for a day or two, was well worth it.

TRAVEL TIPS: Khao Yai is accessible via train from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong station (head to Pak Chong station). From Pak Chong, public songthaew run along the park road to the gate, but further transport to park headquarters must be arranged in advance if you don’t have your own wheels. Entry to the park is B40 for Thais, and B400 for non-Thais. The Khao Yai National Park Headquarters manages several campgrounds, which rent tents and bedding, plus has maps, and can assist with guides for going trekking. Call 04 429 7406, or 04 424 9305, or visit www.thainationalparks.com/khao-yai-national-park. For guided trips, Greenleaf Tours is at km 7.5 of the park road and does free pickups for all tour joiners from the Pak Chong Railway Station. Call 04 493 6361, or visit them online at www.greenleaftour.com.

bangkok101.com

focus on khao yai | TRAVEL

Beer & Bicycles

Exploring Khao Yai by mountain bike with Bangkok’s Hash House Harriers

hile Khao Yai National Park is ideally set up for hikers, it’s also just as accommodating for cyclists. And if you want to accompany a group of fun-loving characters who make regular biking trips to this region, then tag along with the Bangkok Hash House Bikers, a cycling splinter group associated with the Bangkok Hash House Harriers (the local chapter of the infamous international running organization). Osama Rajkhan, a Social Affairs Officer at UNESCAP and long-standing member of the BHHH, has been doing bike hashes since 2001 and has braved the trails of Khao Yai numerous times. By the time you read this he and his band of merry men (and women) will have just completed the group’s first bike hash of 2017— and once again Khao Yai was chosen as their preferred spot.

What does a newcomer need to know about the Bike Hash? The first thing to do, if you are a newcomer, is to look at the instructions on our website. You’ll see where the next event is going to take place and how to get there— and to get there you have various options, most of which are easy and affordable, including minivans we organize to take people up. You’ll also see information related to gear. You need to bring with you certain items: a helmet, padded shorts, gloves, two innertubes and a pump—in case you get a flat—and a Camelbak, which is a little backpack that has a bladder which holds up to 2 liters of water. You can bring bottles of water if you want, but they tend to fall off when you’re going over rocks and through streams. The Camelbak is more secure, and it’s easy to drink from. It has a little spout that goes directly into your mouth so you can keep both hands on the handlebars while drinking—you don’t want to go riding over rocks with one hand. bangkok101.com

So it’s a rough trail? Yes, very rough if you take the more challenging course. Every weekend that a bike hash takes place we do two rides. The Saturday ride is 45 km in total, and takes 4-5 hours—beginning at 1pm and finishing at 5 or 6pm. Normally the Saturday ride has one trail for easy riders, and one for the more competitive types. When we design the trail we have to consider all skill levels. You can be a novice and just enjoy the ride, or you can be a “stump-jumper” daredevil. But it’s not a race. In fact, if we catch anyone racing we penalize them with “down-downs”, a Hash tradition where you have to down a full beer in one go at the meeting circle after the race. We say you’re not supposed to be “race-ist”. (laughs) What happens on Sunday? Sunday we have the “hangover ride”, because we have a party on the Saturday night and everybody drinks copious amounts of beer and wine, and has a lot of fun. For the Sunday ride we make it easy, breezy, flat, and green. And this is when families like to come. It’s also half the distance, just 25 km, and it’s a totally different route than on the Saturday. Do you need to bring your own bike? You can bring your own, but if you don’t have one you can rent one. We work with a company that provides bicycles [LPR, a Bangkok bike shop that comes to each BHHB event]. You can rent one for about B1,000 for the weekend, or B700 for just one day. They deliver the bicycle to the resort, and they fix it, so you don’t have to worry about anything.

What kind of bike is best for the terrain of Khao Yai? Just a regular mountain bike. There are two types basically—hardtail or full suspension. Full suspension tends to be slower, but allows you to do more things, because they’re more malleable and they absorb more shocks. Hard tail is faster, but when you’re going over really rocky bumpy single track terrain you have to go slower. Do you ever see any wildlife? Oh God, always! I’ve heard elephants roaring in the jungle. I saw a cobra once. One time a monkey jumped in front of me—that scared me. I almost ran it over because I was going really fast. Luckily it jumped out of the way. Where is the meeting point? The meeting point is at the resort where we stay. We always stay at a nice place, 4 to 5 star, and we get a group rate, so it’s a good deal. We then charge B300 for the Saturday ride [B400 for non-BHHH members], which covers the snacks and beer—all you can eat and drink. And the snacks are healthy foods, not just chips and peanuts. The Sunday ride is B200 [B300 for non-members]. Would you say Khao Yai is the group’s preferred place when it comes to organizing cycling trips? Definitely. We call it the Switzerland of Thailand. It has lots of beautiful, green, cool hills that are excellent for mountain biking. Because you want the hills, you don’t want flat. You want to have a bit of challenge and excitement. Once a month we do a Bike Hash, and we go to Khao Yai about twice per year. It’s only two hours or so from Bangkok, and there are so many trails, clearly marked with kilometers and distances, and there are lots of park rangers all over the place. And we’ve never lost anyone, thank God! (knocks wood) www.bangkokbikehash.org interview by Bruce Scott F EBRUA RY 2017 | 53

TRAVEL | made in thailand The view from Keptawan Cliff

Khao Yai’s Greenbelt A vital part of Thailand’s burgeoning agro-farm industry Words and photos by Bruce Scott

GRANMONTE VINEYARD: One of the highlights of the Khao Yai agricultural route is the abundance of boutique wineries in the region. And although the idea of a vineyard in Thailand might seem preposterous at first, this region of the kingdom has a relatively low annual rainfall, and a relatively high elevation which, when combined, results in cool temperatures and low humidity. The resulting ‘micro-climate’ makes one particular pocket of farmland, known as the Asoke Valley, ideal for growing

54 | F EBRUA RY 2017

select varieties of grapes. It’s one of those geographical oddities that went largely unnoticed for years, but the people behind GranMonte Vineyard & Winery (52, Moo 9, Phayayen, Pakchong) saw the potential and they are now leading the charge as Thailand stakes its claim in the world of international wines. This 100 rai winery, whose name means “big mountain” in Italian, offers tours of its vineyards, and these tours are usually led by certified oenologist Visootha ‘Nikki’ Lohitnavy (daughter of owner Visooth Lohitnavy). The tour covers all aspects of the wine making process, and also makes note of the fact that modern technologies have been introduced here to get the most out of each vine; fastidiously monitoring everything from humidity to temperature, air movement, and rain accumulation. In return, this ‘precision farming’ yields about 120,000 bottles per year (when the vines are producing at 100% capacity). The grape varieties that grow best here are Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, and Viognier, as well as Verdelho, which is a Portuguese variety commonly used to make Vinho Verde (green wine). For tourists, the best time to visit the vineyard begins in November, when there will be grapes everywhere. They’ll start changing colour by midNovember, and in February this award-winning winery has bangkok101.com

made in thailand | TRAVEL its annual Harvest Festival, complete with a dinner party that includes free-flow wine. This festival also gives GranMonte a chance to launch some of their new vintages (see pg. 104 for more details). And if you want a bed for the night that’s close by—a good idea after all that wine tasting—there is a delightful guesthouse on the premises where you can choose either a Forest View, Vineyard View, or Vineyard Deluxe room.

OTHER KHAO YAI WINERIES

www.granmonte.com

FARM CHOCKCHAI: Way back in 1957, Dr. Choak Bulakul purchased a deserted forest plateau in Nakhon Ratchasima, and began integrated farming. By 1969 he was operating a successful beef cattle business, which included promoting and developing traditional Thai beef cattle breeds. However, in 1976 he switched gears and turned his beef cattle farm into a dairy farm (due primarily to difficulties related to beef cattle exporting quotas, etc). Then in 1985 the company set up its own processing and bottling plant, for selling milk. By the year 2000, Farm Chokchai (169 Friendship Hwy, Pakchong) had become the first farm in Thailand to have an ‘agrotourism’ focus, and being an ardent fan of all things cowboy, Dr. Choak developed a Western style theme park around his successful farm, complete with period style shops, bucking broncos, and local cowboys performing daily rodeo shows. No wonder it’s become such a major tourist attraction in the Khao Yai region, playing host to about 300,000 visitors each year. The farm’s 2.5 hour Agro Knowledge Tour—which takes visitors around the farm on an authentic Westernstyle covered wagon—covers all aspects of the agricultural process, including milk production, organic farming, composting, and animal husbandry (including sheep bangkok101.com

Thailand is a pioneer in growing ‘New Latitude’ wines— the region between the 14th and 18th parallels in the Northern Hemisphere—and today the Khao Yai region is recognized for producing the best quality grape wines in the country. In addition to GranMonte, the PB Valley Estate winery offers wine tours, as well as a shop and a restaurant on-site (www.khaoyaiwinery.com). Other producers include Alcidini (www.alcidini.com), and Village Farm (www.chateaudesbrumes.com), where you can also spend the night in one of their luxurious chalet style accommodations.

herding). But this operation is more than just an edutainment opportunity for school kids. Farm Chokchai is a thriving commercial operation, and it is ranked as the largest private dairy farm in Southeast Asia. In fact, the amount of milk produced by the 1,200 milking cows here is an astonishing 20 to 22 tons a day. The farm’s total area consists of about 20,000 rai, and is divided into four main ranches, used for everything from grazing the heifers, to growing feed grass, hay, corn, and wild rice (there’s even a fish farm in the rice paddy fields). In an effort to become a self-sustaining enterprise—and reducing the company’s carbon footprint—all the cattle feed is grown and manufactured directly on the premises, the cow dung is made into composted fertilizer. Another sustainability factor is the earthworm breeding program, where waste from the farm’s restaurants (leftovers and vegetable peelings), as well as dried dung and leaves, are put together to make compost—which is where the earthworms are raised. And the extracted worm urine makes a good pesticide, which is used for producing certified organic vegetables. www.farmchokchai.com F EBRUA RY 2017 | 55

TRAVEL | made in thailand

WANG NAM KEAW: Sometimes referred to as Thailand’s ‘little Switzerland’, Wang Nam Keaw is full of green fields, farms, and hills that stretch into the distance—especially from the beautiful lookout point at Keptawan Cliff. It’s also the only place besides the north of Thailand that can grow high altitude veggies, and business is “blooming” for the area’s hard-working agriculturalists. In recent years many landowners here have begun specializing in organic farming, and the results are as astonishing as they are delicious. Red and green leaf lettuce is literally everywhere, and crops of corn, carrots, pumpkins, beans, cabbage and various leafy greens are abundant. A great place to find this vegetable cornucopia is at the DIT Farm Outlet (111, Moo 2, Thaisamakkhee) which has been operating for almost a decade. Growers from the community arrive daily to sell their goods, and this network of 30 vendors is presided over by a jovial 64-year old who goes by the name of Lung Kai. He’ll proudly show off his chemical-free 10 rai vegetable farm located behind the main tent—he’s been farming for over two decades—but he’s usually more interested in playing his guitar (which he seldom puts down) and entertaining the visitors at Suanlungkai.

Another successful area agriculturalist is Mr. Veera Pataraanant, the man behind Mister Mushroom (Green Farm, 155, Moo 2, Thaisamakkhee). This self-taught mushroom magnate left a promising career in the mobile phone industry and began experimenting with mushroom production on a small plot of farmland he purchased 56 | F EBRUA RY 2017

here. He opened his mushroom farm almost 10 years ago, and today his fungi factory harvests over 10 tons of mushrooms per month. The mushroom varieties grown here all possess unique medical benefits, and in the cavernous factory showroom visitors can see different types of mushrooms growing row upon row—Shitake, Yanagi, Reishi, and the bizarre looking Monkey Head mushroom—while at the farm shop you can buy fresh mushrooms, dried mushrooms, mushroom chili pastes and spreads, mushroom body lotions and massage oils, mushroom wine, and even mushroom ice cream.

FUN WITH FUNGI

Discover the magic of mushrooms at the Khaoyai Panorama Farm (297, Moo 6, Thanarat Road, Nong Nam Daeng) where visitors can learn all about the cultivation process of these formidable fungi. You can also sample some of the mushrooms grown here, to taste what all the fuss is about, and if you’re really mad about mycology there’s a resort with some cute mushroom houses where guests can book a ‘shroom for the night (the resort also has a mineral water pool for relaxing onsen baths). The farm is open weekdays from 9am to 5pm, and weekends from 9am to 6pm. For more information call 04 475 6234. www.khaoyaipanoramafarm.com

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focus on khao yai | TRAVEL

What to See, What to Do There’s more to Khao Yai than just forest forays

PETE MAZE: Prepare to lose yourself in your surroundings (literally) with a trip to Pete Maze (Yothathikarn Rd, Kahanong Phra) a zig-zagging garden labyrinth and a true challenge for anyone without a GPS tracker. The maze is open weekends and public holidays, from 9am to 6pm, and entry is B150. For more information call 080 168 9601.

KHAO YAI ART MUSEUM: Hidden away on a small hill just outside the national park (Ban Tha Chang Soi 6, Moo 16) sits the Khao Yai Art Museum. This 1,700 sq.m space features art pieces from the private collection of Pongchai Chindasook, a leading Thai businessman. The gallery is packed with contemporary paintings by leading Thai artists, while the tastefully designed outdoor space is home to a sculpture garden. The grounds also contain six modern rental residences, known collectively as the ‘Art Space’, which can sleep up to 8-10 guests. There is also a shop and a restaurant on the premises. The museum is open Monday to Thursday from 10am till 6pm, and Friday through Sunday from 9am till 8pm. For more information call 04 475 6060-6. www.khaoyaiartmuseum.com GOLF: If kiddie attractions are not your style you can always hit the links at any one of Khao Yai’s 10 different golf courses, including the Bonanza Golf & Country Club, and the Mountain Creek Golf Resort (a 27-hole Seve Ballesteros designed course). There’s also two courses designed by golf legend Jack Nicklaus: the Khao Yai Golf Club, and the course at the Kirimaya Golf Resort & Spa.

THE BLOOM: Fans of flowers can visit the biggest floral garden in the country at The Bloom by TV Pool (357 Phayayen, Pakchong). This 100 rai plot of land is owned by a Thai TV mogul, who has turned it into a humungous horticultural habitat. Inside are various themed gardens, as well as a small hotel with restaurant. The gardens are open daily from 9am till 6pm, and entry on weekdays is B100 (weekends B200). For more information call 092 279 1222. www.facebook.com/thebloomkaoyai bangkok101.com

Kirimaya Golf Resort & Spa F EBRUA RY 2017 | 57

TRAVEL | focus on khao yai

Plan Your Trip

Upcoming festivals, seasonal events, adventure trips, and more FEBRUARY 3-5 MYSTIC VALLEY FESTIVAL Postponed from 2016, the Mystic Valley Festival is set to take place at the Mountain Creek Resort Khao Yai this month. The three-day festival offers music lovers a large variety of genres, including EDM, Andy Moor Trance, Techno, Drum & Bass, Trap, Nu Disco, and Indie, on four stages—all surrounded by nature. Among the headliners are Sander van Doorn, Bassjackers, Andy Moor, and Nakadia. In addition, there will be pool parties, day and night markets, and an array of more than 50 food trucks for ravenous revellers. Three-day (and night) passes are priced at B2,990 for general admission, and B5,490 for VIP high-rollers. To purchase tickets, or to find out more about the event, accommodation, and transportation, visit the official website. www.mysticthailand.com

FEBRUARY 12 NANG LEN FESTIVAL Chang Music Connection presents the Nang Len Festival once again, with special live performances from 11 Thai artists including ModernDog, V Violette, Cocktail, Lula, Somkiat, Pop Pongkool, and Paradox. What ModernDog makes this festival unique is that the groups all perform old songs (covers), but in a different music style—what becomes known as the Nang Len version. And even if you don’t know much about the songs or performers it’s still a great chance to enjoy fresh air and nature during the Valentine’s Day weekend. The festival is being held at The Ocean Khao Yai, (Thanarat Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima province). Tickets are B1,500 (available through 7-Eleven stores or online) and the show starts at 4pm—continuing on into the wee hours of the morning. www.allticketthailand.com

DECEMBER-JANUARY

JUNE-NOVEMBER WHITEWATER RAFTING During the rainy season, which usually lasts from June to early November, daredevils flock to Khao Yai for whitewater rafting at Kaeng Hin Phoen, located inside Khao Yai National Park. During this time, the water level is high, providing a faster flow, cleaner rapids, and generally less hazardous conditions. The Kaeng Hin Phoen rafting area—located near the 9th Ranger Unit at Amphoe Nadi in the province of Prachinburi—offers rapids for all varieties of skill levels. A typical outing will last for about two hours, and covers about 4.5 km of river. The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) offers trips with reliable tour operators for B450 per person (or B3,500 per rubber raft for 8 persons). Call 03 731 2282 for more info. 58 | F EBRUA RY 2017

JIM THOMPSON FARM Each year, from early December to mid-January (the peak of the cool season), the Jim Thompson Farm in the Pak Thong Chai district of Nakhon Ratchasima province, opens its doors to the public. During this time the 721 rai farm—originally established to raise mulberries for the production of silkworm eggs and silk cocoons—offers visitors a tour that covers mushroom cultivation and silkworm rearing, as well as showcasing the decorative plant nurseries, rice plantations, flower gardens, and the popular giant pumpkin patch. Daily tours run from 9am to 5pm, and the entrance fee on weekdays is B150/adult, and B100/child (weekends B180/adult, and B140/child). www.jimthompsonfarm.com

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where to dine khao yai | TRAVEL

Khao Yai Kitchens Wining and dining options to suit every taste

MIDWINTER GREEN: By combining the look and feel of a European chateau with a million-dollar backyard view overlooking the verdant mountains and valleys of Khao Yai, the Midwinter Green restaurant (88/88, Moo 10, Thanarat Rd) has come up with a winning combination. The restaurant itself—which used to be named The Smoke House—is hard to miss. Five black-shingled peaks comprise the main building, and directly beside that a lighthouse, resembling a castle turret, looms over the whole estate. In the evening the building is dramatically lit, and the overall effect is quite magical. The menu, meanwhile, is a delicious offering of international and Thai cuisine, including cheesy pizzas, gourmet sandwiches, and BBQ meats. There’s also a huge wine collection, as well as a bakery shop. Open daily from 10am to 10pm. Call 04 436 5288.

VIN COTTO: A visit to the GranMonte estate (see pg. 54) wouldn’t be complete without a meal at Vin Cotto, the winery’s signature restaurant. With seating for up to 120 persons— either in the elegant indoor dining room, or the romantic outdoor terrace—and a menu that offers à la carte fare as well as delicious set menus (both Thai and international), it’s no surprise that this elegant eatery is so popular. Standout dishes include the smoked duck breast salad with fresh grapes (pictured), the braised veal shank in red wine, and the panna cotta with grape preserve. Every dish is carefully selected and created by the lady of the house, Sakuna Lohitnavy, and, not surprisingly, all pair beautifully with the award-winning wines GranMonte is famous for producing. Open daily from 11am to 8pm. Call 092 806 7744. bangkok101.com

LOOKKAI KHAO YAI: Visitors to Lookkai Khao Yai (888/8, Moo 8, Thanarat Rd) will be enchanted by the restaurant’s beautiful gardens and the stately European-style design. Similarly, the menu also combines European and local sensibilities and features two distinctly different types of dishes—French and Thai. But the one thing that transcends all borders are desserts, and this eatery is famous for their mouth-watering waffles, cakes, crepes, and ice cream. Open daily from 10am to 10pm. Call 099 106 8844. THE WITCHES BREW: Khao Yai has not one, but four faux-Italian lifestyle malls—but only Veneto Piazza (at 379/10 Thanarat Rd) is home to The Witches Brew, a cozy, casual, 2-floor dining spot serving up everything from lasagna and thin-crust pizzas, to steaks, Caesar salads, and even fish and chips, and bangers n’ mash. As the name suggests there is a “witch” theme to the décor, and behind the bar there’s plenty of fine wine and other “spirits” to keep everyone spellbound. Open daily from 11am to 9pm. Call 093 639 4695. F EBRUA RY 2017 | 59

TRAVEL | where to stay khao yai

U Khao Yai

Romantic retreat with a French country flair

aving just opened in October of 2016, the elegant U Khao Yai is one of the newcomers on the Khao Yai scene. The hotel is located within the confines of the Magnolias French Country residence—a vacation home property development comprised of 18 Frenchinspired maisons set against a tranquil countryside setting (complete with a meandering stream, foot bridges, and a beautiful lake). This Gallic theme is carried on throughout the hotel itself; from the spacious grand lobby to the pastoral landscaped gardens that surround the Chateau-style main building. Inside there are several farm-related visual themes at play—most notably horses and rabbits—making the whole experience like staying in a luxurious country manor. There are a total of 63 units to choose from, starting with the 34 sq.m Superior Rooms, and continuing all the way up to the four 72 sq.m Suites. The lovely Deluxe Rooms—which range in size from 47 to 57 sq.m—are a welcoming option for vacationing couples, with lavender pastel shades adorning the walls and furnishings, and even the twin bunny pillows on the gorgeously comfortable king sized bed. Other room amenities include flatscreen TV, W-Fi, mini bar and fridge, three separate closets, a picturesque balcony overlooking the back garden, and a relaxing day bed lounger. The bathing facilities include a rainfall showerhead and marble shower bench, and as with all U hotels guests are invited to choose their preferred soap fragrance upon check-in, whether jasmine, orchid, or bamboo. As for what to do once you’ve unpacked, the hotel offers guests a 24-hour fitness centre, six treatment rooms at the U Spa by Tao Garden, a billiard and games room, meeting and function rooms, and a relaxing outdoor infinity edge swimming pool in the back that overlooks a garden stream. 60 | F EBRUA RY 2017

And should you wish to venture out into the surrounding area, there are free bicycles available for all guests to use (the Khao Yai Art Museum is just a 30-minute leisurely pedal away). By contrast, the wonderful Papillon French Bistro Restaurant, the property’s only F&B outlet, is what will make you NOT want to leave the premises. This bright and airy restaurant gives diners the option of indoor or outdoor terrace seating, and apart from being the breakfast common area this bistro eatery also tempts with scrumptious lunch and dinner menu items. With meat products from Sloane’s, the restaurant’s exclusive artisan partner, diners can sample exquisite variety of unforgettable farm-fresh, Frenchstyle fare. The hearty assorted cold cuts platter, with pork rillette and smoked black pepper duck, is a nice starter option, but the exquisite crab meat timbale—a cold soup, much like gazpacho—is the real show-stopper. The dollop of tender crab, prepared

with mayonnaise and coriander, sits in a bright red splash of bell pepper vinaigrette. It’s a must try! Another must-try for fans of classic French nosh is the traditional farm-style cassoulet, a braised white bean stew served with a meaty pair of Sloane’s Toulouse sausages, and a hefty hunk of belly bacon. Even the humble croque monsieur toasted sandwich—here made with thick slabs of ham and plenty of melted Gruyere cheese—becomes a gastromé pleasure. And since we couldn’t possibly sample every temptation in one sitting, we happily returned for dinner and made short work of the sugar cane whole-smoked corn-fed chicken (a dish specifically made for two persons) served with a selection of homemade sauces and delicious sides. Trés bien! by Bruce Scott

U Khao Yai

99/22, Moo 1, Moosi Tel: 04 407 9999 www.ukhaoyai.com bangkok101.com

where to stay khao yai | TRAVEL

Lala Mukha

Luxury tented accommodations turn camping into “glamping”

f you “sorta” like the idea of camping, but you don’t want to give up a soft bed, hot shower, and a bit of air-conditioning, then the Lala Mukha Tented Resort offers the perfect hybrid—über-luxury tents that turn camping into “glamping”. Located just a short drive from the entrance to Khao Yai National Park, this chic, eco-friendly, outdoor resort is surrounded by the region’s natural beauty—sub-tropical forests and grasslands that are ringed in the distance by majestic limestone mountains. For an “in-tents” experience, the resort offers 18 elegantly appointed 32, sq.m Eco Safari Tents, as well as nine 36 sq.m Deluxe Savanna Tents. Or, if you want to eschew the whole tent thing altogether, there are four beautifully modelled, 2-storey, chalet-style Loft Tree Houses, which boast 85 sq.m of living space and can fit four persons comfortably. So what does the basic Eco Safari Tent come with? Well, you’ll be treated to comfy twin beds, air-conditioner, satellite TV, standing bangkok101.com

fan, electric lamps, mini-fridge, sofa, shaded terrace with table and chairs, towels, and plenty of other goodies (including breakfast). However, the bathroom facilities are separate and contained within a well-maintained, very clean shared shower, toilet and sink area—one for the girls, one for the guys. Of course, if you opt for one of the pricier deluxe tents, the shower, sink and toilet are en-suite, while the tree house lofts even have bathtubs! The resort’s proximity to both the national park, as well as two of the region’s best wineries—PB Valley Estate and GranMonte—make it an ideal base from which to explore the area. Or, if you’d rather just enjoy your immediate surroundings, there’s a 105 sq.m swimming pool with adjoining sun-deck—complete with sunbeds and shade umbrellas—as well as a pair of oversized hammocks built-for-two. For dining, the Jabulani Restaurant is open from 8am till 9pm, with many excellent menu selections. Try one of the garden fresh salads, or the tasty mushroom soup, and follow

it up with either the hearty steak and vegetable combo, the sea bass with spinach and mashed potatoes, or the tangy BBQ ribs—just a few of the restaurant’s delicious signature specialties. Afterwards, you can relax at The Star Lounge, a casual outdoor drink spot built above the restaurant. It’s definitely not roughing it, but as a guest you still get the overall “feeling” of camping. And although the accommodations all come with airconditioning, often just opening the tent’s zippered-flap windows—which are screened, of course—is all you need to let the cool night breezes flow through. Turning off the AC (and, we hope, the TV) also lets you enjoy the sounds of nature at night, making this a perfect spot for Bangkok’s overstressed hordes to de-pressurize—if only for the weekend. by Bruce Scott

Lala Mukha Tented Resort 515, Moo 5, Mu Si Tel: 04 429 7760 www.lalamukha.com

F EBRUA RY 2017 | 61

TRAVEL | khao yai visitor guide

GUIDE TO KHAO YAI

24 1

2247

PAK CHONG 5

To BANGKOK 1016

2 20

2090

22 23 2

2235

1 11

3060

3052

304 3052

4 16

KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK

19 17

9 1 8

13 319

304

320

ATTRACTIONS 1 Khao Rom 2 Greenleaf Tours 3 Palio Village 4 Scenical World 5 Pak Chong Bus Depot 6 Wat Thep Phithak Punnaram 7 Haew Suwat 8 Haew Narok 9 Pha Diao Dai 10 Khao Yai National Park Headquarters 11 The Ocean Khao Yai 12 9th Ranger Unit at Amphoe Nadi 13 Kaeng Hin Phoen 14 Jim Thompson Farm 15 Farm Chokchai 16 Wang Nam Keaw

62 | F EBRUA RY 2017

Keptawan Cliff DIT Farm Outlet 19 Mister Mushroom 20 Khao Yai Art Museum 21 The Bloom by TV pool 22 Khao Yai Panorama Farm 23 Pete Maze 24 Wat Thamkrissanan Dhammaram 17 18

ACCOMMODATIONS Toscana Valley 2 Baan Suan Noi 3 Lala Mukha Resort 4 U Khao Yai Resort 1

GOLF COURSES Moutain Creek Resort 2 Bonanza Golf & Country Club 3 Khao Yai Golf Club 4 Kirimaya Golf Resort & Spa 1

RESTAURANTS & BARS 1 Midwinter Green 2 Veneto Piazza (Witches Brew) 3 Lookkai Khao Yai 4 The Chocolate Factory WINERIES 1 GranMonte (Vin Cotto) 2 PB Valley Winery 3 Alcidini Winery 4 Village Farm Winery

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TRAVEL | making merit

Eco-Entertainment This year’s Wonderfruit Festival goes carbon neutral By Julia Offenberger

ostponed from December of last year, the highly–anticipated Wonderfruit festival is now set to take place from February 16th to 19th—making it a perfect long weekend getaway. This will be the third staging of the event—a smorgasbord of music, art, workshops, talks, family activities, and food—and it will take over The Fields at the Siam Country Club (located about 15 km outside of downtown Pattaya) for four consecutive days. In addition to all the hipster-approved food and fun, the festival has also garnered a reputation of being an eco-conscious event and this year it takes its efforts further by pledging to fully offset its carbon footprint. 6 4 | F EBRUA RY 2017

Since its beginning, in 2014, the Wonderfruit organizers have set the long-term goal to positively impact society by introducing various sustainable initiatives. “What makes us distinct in terms of our organizational structure is that sustainability was our starting point and then the fun and activities were curated around that,” explained festival founder Pranitan ‘Pete’ Phornprapha in a recent interview. Some of these efforts from the past years include the use of biodegradable, reusable water bottles on site, structures and stages created with natural and recyclable materials such as bamboo, and the implementation of the site’s own water filtration system, which is

pumped from a natural lake. Helping the cause is also the fact that the festival grounds are owned by the Wonderfruit team, thus enabling them to care for it all year round, and cultivate plants and trees. In addition to all these initiatives— which have already set Wonderfruit far apart from many other music festivals in terms of waste disposal— the organizers decided to go one more step and tackle the problem of carbon emissions with their “net positive pledge”. By investing in carbon sequestering ecosystems, they try to offset the festival’s carbon footprint, which is increased by factors that vary from guest artists flying in, to the electricity used on site. bangkok101.com

making merit | TRAVEL As compensation the organizers support the Rimba Raya Biodiversity Reserve in Indonesia, which protects nearly 65,000 hectares of peat swamp forest in Central Kalimantan on Borneo Island. It is also Indonesia’s largest private orangutan sanctuary, and the money earned by the project helps livelihood programmes in surrounding villages, providing employment, training, and hope for the future. The second initiative supports the Thor Heyerdahl Climate Park, aiming to restore 500,000 hectares of critically depleted mangrove forests in Myanmar. Just one mangrove tree can mitigate up to a tonne of CO2 over its lifetime, and these miracle plants are at the frontline of climate change by acting as a shield to local communities. Both investments will be handled by the blockchain startup Lykke, a marketplace for natural capital

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investments. Through digital tokens such as the Heyerdahl Mangrove Coin (HMC)—similar to Bitcoin but backed by trees—it’s possible for anyone to invest in natural capital. Each HMC represents the planting of a new mangrove seedling, and will entitle the owner to a share of future carbon credits across the entire project, which will offset the carbon footprint and be climate net positive. In addition, festival goers can further support this cause by investing in HMC through the Lykke Wallet app or by purchasing a special “green” drink at the bar. Priced at one dollar more than other items, the proceeds will go directly to the climate park, where another mangrove tree will be planted. In addition, the festival content has also been designed in line with this ethos, ranging from structures such as the brand-new multi-purpose

Farm Stage—made entirely of harvested rice—and Solar Stage, to ‘Scratch Talks’, focussing on ecoheroes, and art installations reflecting environmental sustainability, and social responsibility. This doesn’t mean, however, that the programme is lacking any fun. On the contrary, it offers a diverse line up of international artists. Headliners include US indie pop band Buke & Gase, London based drum and bass group Rudimental, English electropop singer-songwriter Shura, Scottish hip hop artists Young Fathers, and Thai indie band Yena. Meanwhile, the event once again promises to be a foodies’ haven, with its farm-to-feast programmes which range from workshops and activities such as rice farming, to a variety of delicious offerings and tasty street food across the field—including setups by Peppina, Rocketfruit, Marcel, and Straight Outta Thonglor (to name a few). In addition, gourmands also have the opportunity to taste unique culinary creations prepared by renowned chefs at the festival’s delectable Wonder Feasts. Expect a daytime banquet by Chef Jeriko Van Der Wolf of Cocotte, celebrating fresh, organic, and seasonal produce, a reggae brunch by Chefs Paolo Vitaletti and Jarrett Wrisley from Appia and Soul Food Mahanakorn restaurants, and a dinner curated by Chefs Khanaporn ‘Oom’ Janjirdsak and Panupon ‘Black’ Bulsuwan from F.A.C.T. Collective, which takes diners on a journey of the flavours of northern and southern Thai cuisine. In addition, returning for the second time this year is Gaggan Anand with his progressive Indian cuisine. This time he’ll be joined by friends, including Chef Daniel Chavez of Ola in Singapore. Other highlights on offer at the festival include yoga, Muay Thai, flower workshops, fashion and design areas, and special family adventures. Four-day passes are priced at B5,500 in advance, and B6,000 at the door, and visitors also have the option of between staying in their own tent or RV, or at any of the boutique tents or off-site partner hotels. To find out more about accommodation, transportation, and to purchase tickets, visit the website at www.wonderfruitfestival.com. F EBRUA RY 2017 | 65

TRAVEL | upcountry now

SHAMBHALA IN YOUR HEART FESTIVAL February 9-18

Now in its 9th edition, the Shambhala Festival is set to take place for nine days at the Chiang Dao Youth Camp this month. Meaning “the source of happiness” in Tibetan, the festival gathers artists, dancers, and local musicians, and also organizes many eco-conscious activities, including tie-dying, yoga, and trash-management workshops. Oneday passes are B100 for Thais, and B200 for foreigners, while tickets for the entire nine days are priced at B500/B1,000, including a spot at the campsite or in the dormitory. In addition, the profits will support community projects around the Chiang Dao district.

BAN CHIANG WORLD HERITAGE FEST February 10-12

The archeological site of Ban Chiang was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1992. In celebration of this significant declaration, the Udon Thani province has been organizing the Ban Chiang World Heritage Festival every year with an objective of showcasing the fascinating and rich history of this forgotten culture. Marvel at the archaeological discoveries, dating back to the Bronze Age (over 5,000 years ago), at the Ban Chiang Archaeological Site and National Museum. Throughout the three days, visitors can also shop for local products, sample local cuisine, and even attempt to make some Ban Chiang pottery.

TRANG UNDERWATER WEDDINGS February 12-14

Over the Valentine’s Day weekend, Trang welcomes visitors from all over the world to participate in, and witness, the fantastic, romantic Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony. In addition to the marriage registration under the water, the event promotes an exotic traditional Thai wedding culture to foreign wedding couples, divers, and tourists from all over. The ceremony starts with a Khan Mak procession, a colourful and lively parade in which the groom makes his way to ask the bride’s parents for their daughter’s hand. A religious blessing ceremony also takes place, at which the bride and the groom wear traditional Thai costumes.

SUD TAE CEREMONY February 14

The Sud Tae Ceremony—a wedding ceremony in which the couple are married while seated on elephants—is the traditional marriage celebration of the local Guay tribe. The ceremony is held on Valentine’s Day at the Elephant Study Center, Tah Toom District in Surin Province. It is believed that this unique elephant-back ceremony will help bring about good fortune and prosperity to the couples involved. Additionally, the couples partake in Bai Si Soo Kwan, a symbolic parade of money (representing the dowry), and traditional drum performances and dancing. 66 | F EBRUA RY 2017

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CUISINE ART

Air: Wind, Weather, and Weaving Ruen Urai’s Thai gourmet journey explores the natural elements that have significant meanings in Thai food and customs. After the rainy monsoon season is gone, the cooler air from the South China Sea blows southward from the northeast. This post-harvest weather signals the lunar New Year and a new season of weaving, and new pieces of textiles are created. Like the overlaying patterns of textiles, a touch of curry sauce on grilled river prawns intertwines both simple and complex flavours. Combining rich ingredients with a deft touch makes this dish light as air. Experience fine Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

ART

| ART & CULTURE

Leaf Walk

Solo Exhibition by Brendan Lynch

rtist BRENDAN LYNCH—born in 1985 in Los Angeles, and currently living and working in Brooklyn, New York—titles his current exhibition LEAF WALK, which is a reference to the 1988 animated film Land Before Time. During a time of drought, the cartoon dinosaurs of the story undertake an epic journey to an oasis known as the ‘Great Valley’. Along the way, Little Foot, the young Apatosaurus and protagonist of the story, is given a star-shaped leaf by his mother. A symbol of mother nature’s nurturing energy, the leaf is a reminder of what has given their tribe sustenance, and what awaits them in the bountiful valley. He holds onto this gift for the rest of his journey, and it becomes a source of power and energy that allows him to continue through the landscape and reach his goal. The works in this show connect to this idea of landscape as expedition, encouraging movement within and throughout it—both literally and creatively. The artist seeks to present discrete landscape works in a number of different contexts, while unifying them with a single overarching concept, exploring the diversity of the subject matter and the myriad ways in which landscape painting can function. In accomplishing his goal, Lynch pulls inspiration and material from a variety of diverse sources, including fantasy illustration, places seen and unseen, animation, and tourist shop tchotchke.

LEAF WALK runs until MARCH 23 at the NOVA CONTEMPORARY gallery (Baan Somthavil, Soi Mahadlek-Luang 3, Rajdamri Rd). Viewing hours are Tuesday to Sunday, from 11am to 8pm. For more info, call 090 910 6863. www.novacontemporary.com NOTE: This exhibition is just one of the many that will be featured in this month's GALLERIES' NIGHT. For more on this event see pg.76

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

FEBRUARY 3-15 Vibrations

Serindia Gallery OP Garden Unit 3101-3201, 4-6, Soi 36 Charoen Krung Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-8pm Tel: 02 238 6410 | www.serindiagallery.com

This exhibition of pen and ink drawings is by French artist Sophie de Kinkelin, who comes from a great musician family—she had a pianist mother and a cellist father. Sophie traveled widely since she was a child, having known many of the great artists of the 20th century. Her works are delicate pen and ink drawings on paper, reflecting hours of concentration, tranquility, and sophisticated techniques and colours. The discipline in her works resolves into the images of meditative quality—not only resonating her past, but also casting new light onto her contemporary abstract images.

FEBRUARY 3-28 Mitr

Bridge Art Space Charoen Krung Soi 51 Viewing hours: Wed-Mon, 10am-10pm Tel: 089 666 2051 | www.facebook.com/bridgeartspace

The word “mitr” means companion, or comrade, in Thai, and companionship is the concept of this show. It brings together diverse friends—graffiti, street and mixed media artists—from around Asia. The aim of organizing is to present contemporary art in its myriad forms, with all its uniqueness, innovation, individuality and technique; acting as an exchange of ideas, creativity and culture. Artists who have made names for themselves, both domestically and internationally, include Lolay, Chip7, Rukkit, and Beerpitch from Thailand, as well as two Japanese artists, a pair of Taiwanese artists, and three Korean artists.

FEBRUARY 7-MARCH 26 Story from Thai Records Ardel Gallery of Modern Art

99/45, Belle Ville, Borromratchachonnanee Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10:30am-7pm, Sun, 10:30am-5:30pm Tel: 02 422 2092 | www.ardelgallery.com

This art exhibition, by Pichit Tangcharoen, is entitled ‘Story from Thai Records’ and presents a series of beautifully created and colourful paintings that attempt to tell the profound stories behind old Thai songs—whether in the traditional, modern, urban, or folk genre. In the past, these melodies were recorded and presented in the form of gramophone records. The artworks represent the unique charm and original value of these records, as well as the phonograph itself, and the social context within Thai culture that relates to the unique Thai lifestyle. It's a show for art lovers and music fans alike. 70 | F EBRUA RY 2017

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

FEBRUARY 14-MARCH 25 What We Do For Love Ardel’s Third Place Gallery

Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Viewing hours: Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 714 7929 | www.thirdplacebangkok.com/gallery

This exhibition expresses the power of love—both for the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, and country of Thailand. In the words of artist Nino Sarabutra: “As a child of the country’s leader, I joined a mournful nation deep in sorrow over his death. I found myself among the four lines queuing to pay homage to his mortal remains. It was a beautiful and intensely moving procession. I believe this man has done so much for our country. I also feel most people in Thailand love him no less now that he’s gone. Their affection only grows stronger. That love manifests itself in everything they do, from grand gestures to simple tasks.”

UNTIL FEBRUARY 18 Farewell: The Art Center’s Acknowledgments 2016 The Art Center

7F, Office of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Rd. Viewing hours: Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm, Sat, 9am-4pm Tel: 02 218 2965 | www.car.chula.ac.th/art

The farewell exhibition marking the gallery’s closure in early 2017 is the gallery’s largest show yet, featuring 50 artists who have previously exhibited here. This exhibition is a farewell to the Bangkok art community, but it also expresses appreciation to all the artists who have worked with The Art Center. The exhibition will be presented in a salon style, with the aim of giving equal recognition to all the artists. Artworks to be on display will reflect the various meanings of the word “acknowledge”, as defined by the Oxford dictionary.

UNTIL FEBRUARY 25 Dirty Snow Poesy

Bangkok University Gallery (BUG) 119, Rama 4 Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm Tel: 02 350 3626 | www.facebook.com/bangkokuniversitygallery

Artist Prae Pupityastaporn, who recently graduated from the Kunstakademie in Düsseldorf, Germany, is inspired by the narrative in literature. The atmosphere in her acrylic on canvas works is peaceful, but it always seems like something will happen and/or something will disappear. Similarly, the landscape is unidentified in its time and place. The abandoned modern architectural structures are surrounded by strange environment. The composition in the painting not only leads us to fantasize, but also stops us—while we are in a subconscious state—from straightforwardly pondering the truth in front of us. bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

King Prajadhipok Museum Understanding an important page in Thailand’s history Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

ing Prajadhipok, or Rama VII, witnessed one of the most important events in the modern history of the Kingdom of Siam: the 1932 Revolution which put an end to absolute monarchy and instituted a constitutional monarchy. The King Prajadhipok Museum, housed in a charming European style building in the heart of Royal Bangkok, recalls his life and his achievements. Located at one of the most important crossroads of old Royal Bangkok—standing just at the corner of Lan Luang and Damrongrak Roads, facing the magnificent Phan Fa Bridge and the majestic perspective of Ratchadamnoen Klang Avenue— the King Prajadhipok Museum looks a bit lost among the typical Art Deco buildings of the area, most of them painted in dark yellow. With its neo-renaissance style façade in shades of almond green, and its octagonal cupola with a clock, the building offers indeed an unintentional contrast with the architectural style of the area. The structure is one of the last pieces of the first expansion of Bangkok in the early days of the 20th century. When it opened in 1906, the structure was in fact used for an emporium owned by John Sampson & Son. The architect was half-French/half-Swiss and was also inspired by Venetian Gothic and Renaissance architecture,

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a style much en-vogue in those years. The store closed a few years later, and in 1933 became the Department of Public Works before it was leased to the King Prajadhipok Institute, following permission granted by the Crown Property Bureau to turn the building into a museum. The Museum was officially opened to the public in 2002, and helps visitors to plunge into one of the most fascinating periods in Thailand’s recent history. Through the documents and personal belongings of King Rama VII, visitors can discover the life of this beloved monarch, including his achievements, and—most interestingly—learn about his views on the 1932 Revolution which transformed Siam's absolute monarchy into a constitutional one. It gives one an opportunity to know about the life of a king who witnessed one of the most crucial moments in modern Thai history. King Prajadhipok himself was the youngest son of King Chulalongkorn (King Rama V), and Queen Sri Patcharindra. Born on November 8, 1893, he was educated in both Thai and English, and did part of his education at Eton College in England and at Woolwich Royal Military Academy. Many photos inside the Museum show the early days of the future King with his family and at college. He was crowned King of Siam on February 25, 1926, at the age of 32. bangkok101.com

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

Relatively unprepared to assume the throne—as he was not first in succession to Rama VI—King Prajadhipok had an intelligent personality and showed a true commitment to bring more democracy and modern development into Siam. He engaged the Kingdom in political reforms, such as the creation of the Supreme Council of the State of Siam (the precursor of the current Privy Council) and introduced municipal administration. The King was also fond of culture and education, as detailed in the museum. He is the one who abolished education fees by promulgating the Primary Education Act. He modernized the ‘Wang Na Museum’, renamed in 1926 as the Bangkok Museum, and then Bangkok National Museum in 1934. The King also helped develop the National Library. Among the cultural institutions of note during the reign of Rama VII is the Chalermkrung Theatre. The museum has reconstructed part of the theatre as it used to be at time of opening in 1932. The theatre was then the most modern cultural building in Bangkok and one of the few equipped with air conditioning. But this King’s most spectacular contribution to Bangkok’s cityscape was the construction of the Phra Putta Yodfa Bridge, connecting Bangkok and Thonburi, constructed in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of the Chakri Dynasty and the founding of Bangkok. A model shows the bridge and its surrounding the year of its opening, while the original plans are on display around the room. Many pictures show the King and the Queen visiting the construction site as King Prajadhipok took particularly interest in the development of the surrounding communities. Is it a coincidence that the opening of the bridge in bangkok101.com

April 1932 was the last big official act of a King as ‘Absolute Monarch of Siam’? The military-orchestrated Siamese coup d’état on June 24th of that year was the start of a political revolution, resulting in the King’s status being transformed from “absolute monarch” to “constitutional monarch”. On December 10, 1932, King Prajadhipok granted permission to the Kingdom’s first constitution. Photos refer to these turbulent times and show again facsimiles and authentic documents related to the Siamese revolution. Due to deteriorating relations with the People’s Party (Khana Ratsadon) in power, the King started touring Europe and spent a long period of time in the UK for health reasons. While seeing the difficulty to agree with the evolution of the political situation within Siam, the King finally took the bold decision to abdicate in March 1935, remaining from that time in England. Most interesting is to read the reproduction of English-language newspapers of the time, with analysis of the situation in the Kingdom as well as the official abdication speech of King Prajadhipok. Once more, the museum provides an opportunity to learn more about the profound political changes affecting Siam at that time. The last rooms of the museum reflect on the King’s final years in England, where he had a rather tranquil life with his wife, Queen Rambhai Barni. A special section is dedicated to the Queen and her commitment to arts and handicrafts—from her early days, to her death in 1984 in Bangkok. King Prajhadipok suffered of heart problems and passed away from heart failure on May 30, 1941. He was only 48 years old. He reigned only for ten years but remains in history as one of the most important monarchs in Thai history.

King Pradhipok Museum

2 Lan Luang Rd, | Tel: 02 280 341 | Open: Tue-Sun, 9am-4pm Admission: free | www.kpi.ac.th F EBRUA RY 2017 | 73

ART & CULTURE | required reading

The Art of Food

Renowned Chef Luca Fantin whips up more than just a simple “cookbook”

n the top four floors of the Bulgari Ginza Tower, the brand’s flagship location in Tokyo, is where you’ll find Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, and (as the name suggests) the king of the kitchen here is Executive Chef Luca Fantin. His skillful blending of key traditional ingredients straight from his Mediterranean homeland, along with fresh Japanese meats, fish, and vegetables, has earned him international acclaim. Now, readers can discover the ingredients and inspiration behind many of Fantin’s famous dishes—including homemade tagliatelle with lobster, lamb with chicory and zucchini flowers, and tender squid ink gnocchi—in a beautifully designed 176page hardcover book entitled La Cucina di Luca Fantin. The book, published by Assouline, is a journey into Fantin’s food and ethos—delineated by seasons, and

embellished with evocative photography not just of the food but of the Japanese landscape, fish markets, growers (including the frozen carrot diggers) and butchers. The photos (90 in total) are supplied by two photographers: Takao Ikejiri, who has also shot for brands like Estee Lauder, Burberry and Mikimoto, and portrait photographer Andrea Fazzari, who has previously worked with Oscar de la Renta and Gordon Ramsey, among others. In many ways it’s more of a coffee-table tome than a cookbook… but who’s complaining. It’s a magnificent exercise in exceedingly good taste.

Bulgari: La Cucina Di Luca Fantin

Price: $150.00 | 10.5 x 15 in (27 x 38 cm) www.assouline.com/bulgari-cucina-luca-fantin.html

ABOUT LUCA FANTIN Before coming to the Bulgari Ginza Tower in Tokyo, Luca Fantin worked at such prestigious restaurants as Cracco in Milan, Hostaria dell’Orso in Rome, and RyuGin in Tokyo. He is currently the only Italian chef in Japan with a Michelin star. In 2015 Identità Golose awarded him the title of “Best Italian Chef in the World.” He will be making his culinary debut in Bangkok this month as part of the 'Culinary Greats' series (see pg. 28 for more details).

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cinema scope | ART & CULTURE

Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

Lou Andreas-Salomé

Coconut Hero

Song of Lahore

Weiner

The Island Funeral

Lawrence of Arabia

The Great Sommer

Suck Me Shakespeer 2

here’s lots of great local and experimental film to discover this month, starting with the 60 Second Film Festival, which takes place on February 10th at Whiteline (Silom Soi 8). As the name suggests, all films screened are short—up to one minute maximum running time, including credits—and the genres run the gamut from documentary and drama, to comedy, horror, crime, action, romance, music video, and art film. The results are sometimes extraordinary, and the great thing is that even if you don’t happen to like a particular film, you only have to wait a minute for a new one to begin. In a somewhat different vein, the two-day Bangkok Underground Film Fest takes place on February 25th and 26th at Arunkarn (Soi Don Kuson 1, Charoen Krung 67). Originally scheduled to take place in late 2016, this fest is finally getting underway at the end of this month. Not much is known yet about the films being screened but admission is free so take a chance and see some experimental works (search ‘Bangkok Underground Film Fest’ on Facebook). A tad more commercially oriented is the ongoing German Open Air Cinema event series organized by the Goethe Institute of Thailand (Soi Sathorn 1). These German language films—with English subtitles—screen every Tuesday, starting at 7:30pm, beginning on February 7th with The Great Sommer (Switzerland), followed by Coconut Hero on Valentine’s Day, Lou Andreas-Salomé (an AustrianGerman film) on the 21st, and Suck Me Shakespeer 2, which bangkok101.com

centres around a high school trip to Thailand (of all places!) on the 28th. Truthfully I like the last film's original title, Fack Ju Goehte 2, better than its anglicized counterpart, but either way it promises to be a decidedly silly romp. For documentary fans, the Foreign Correspondents Club of Thailand (518/5 Ploenchit Rd) is screening Song of Lahore, a film that examines the lives and the cultural heritage of Pakistan’s classical musicians, on February 6th. Then on the 13th, catch Return to Homs, a doc which follows the lives of two outstanding young men in war torn Syria. Both screenings start at 7:30pm, and are free for members and B150 for non-members (www.fccthai.com). Meanwhile, on February 24th at Jam (41 Soi Rang Nam Kang), catch a free screening of Be A Woman, from queer Chinese activist filmmaker Fan Popo. Start time is 8pm. Finally, the recently revamped Bangkok Screening Room (Soi Sala Daeng 1) has lots on offer this month, including the critically acclaimed 2016 political documentary Weiner, about the notorious congressman Anthony Weiner. Other recent films include the Thai indie drama The Island Funeral, and the 2016 Japanese film Harmonium. Meanwhile some older films are getting revived as well, including Bar 21, a 1979 Thai film about an escort girl who is an eye witness in a murder case, and three English-language classics: Dr. Strangelove (1964), Lawrence of Arabia (1962), and Bonnie and Clyde (1967). Check out the timetables for screenings at www.bkksr.com. F EBRUA RY 2017 | 75

Art & Culture Photo Feature

LA FÊTE GALLERIES’ NIGHT Various art galleries across Bangkok February 3-4

Friday the 3rd @ Silom / Sathorn / Riverside Saturday the 4th @ Sukhumvit Time: 5pm until midnight, free admission Mobile Application: Galleriesnight www.facebook.com/galleriesnight One of the most important events of the annual cultural art program in Bangkok is the La Fête Galleries’ Night, organized by the French Embassy of Thailand. This will be the 4th staging of this annual event, which aims to promote contemporary art and highlights all dynamic creativity—Thai and international—introducing new experiences and pleasures, both small and large, to the gallery going public. Over the course of the two nights—Friday, February 3rd and Saturday, February 4th—gallery goers will discover a wide variety of activities, including exhibitions, performances, artist meet-ups, film and video screenings, talks, and even live music. And with more than 40 participating galleries and art spaces in Bangkok, there’s sure to be something for everyone.

Anchalee Arayapongpanich at Sathorn 11 Art Space

This year the Galleries’ Night will also feature “clusters”, with several galleries and art spaces in one area—enhancing the activities—with places to rest and refreshments available along the Silom/ Sathorn BTS line and riverside on Friday and along the Sukhumvit BTS line on Saturday. There will also be a special platform with activities for children, young people, and families at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) during the afternoon of Saturday, February 4th, from 2pm onwards. As always, volunteers at each gallery and art space will be on hand to help and provide useful information to visitors. So download the free app and make your way down the gallery gauntlet. However, if you happen to have missed this year’s event, our special photo feature presents a few highlights from some of the galleries participating (with most of these shows continuing throughout the month). Micaela Marini Higgs at Tentacles

Claude Esteb at Toot Yung Nomad Gallery

Adel Abidin at The Ferry Gallery

Harit Srikhao at Kathmandu Photo Gallery

Pichai Pongsasaovapark at Subhashok the Arts Center

Cece Nobre at ATTA Gallery

Alex Face at Bangkok CityCity Gallery

Wipoosana Supanakorn at Pandora Art Gallery

Olivier Duhamel at La Lanta Fine Art

LE Brothers at The Jim Thompson Art Center

Rammy Narula at S Gallery

Teeratat Numkaew at Kalwit Studio & Gallery

Surajate Tongchua at Numthong Gallery

FOOD & DRINK |

New Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite pancakes at the Clinton Street Baking Company 82 | F EBRUA RY 2017

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| FOOD & DRINK

AROY garden of culinary delights

SIAM PARAGON mall recently unveiled THE GOURMET GARDEN, a world-class dining haven in the heart of the city which is home to more than 30 fine dining restaurants and dessert cafés. The vast, meticulously designed 8,000 sq.m space is located on G floor, and each restaurant and dessert café is designed to embrace the open-plan layout—some even have sprawling terraces overlooking the lagoon view and the leafy courtyard. One of the highlights amongst the eateries here is the CLINTON STREET BAKING COMPANY, a NY-based restaurant known for its down-home kitchen specialties, including fried chicken on crispy Belgian vanilla buttermilk waffles, and their infamous egg-white pancakes (voted New York’s best), served piled high with blueberries and drizzled with maple syrup.

gourmet chefs gala at mandarin oriental As part of an amazing food month in Bangkok, the MANDARIN ORIENTAL BANGKOK will play host to a dynamic array of world-renowned chefs when their CULINARY GREATS series gets underway. Top-ranked names from the culinary world—including Umberto Bombana, Julian Royer, Richard Ekkabus, Ryan Clift, Mingoo Kang, Luca Fantin, and Dharshan Munidasa—will be taking over the kitchens and whipping up some mind-blowing edible works of art. The first half of the event runs from February 18th to 19th, and the second half runs from February 22nd to the 23rd. See the full story in our special feature on page 28.

whatever the market will bear A relatively new eatery that’s been getting a lot of attention recently is EL MERCADO: THE CHEF’S MARKET, located at 490 Soi Phai Singto (not far from the Queen Sirikit MRT station). Here a renovated old house with a charming patio has been transformed into a store that sells seafood, meat, cold cuts, cheeses, and a variety of baked goods, but customers can also choose to eat at its brasserie, as they would in similar markets in Europe. This is not the typical restaurant as you know it—there is no fixed menu and the dishes of the day depend on the availability of seasonal produce and meats, as well as the avant-garde experimental mood of the in-house chef. In addition, the in-house WINE CELLAR houses a selection consisting mostly of old-world European wines at very affordable prices.

aw shucks, it’s oyster time again If oysters truly are an aphrodisiac, then you should take your Valentine to FLAVORS, located on the M floor of the RENAISSANCE BANGKOK RATCHAPRASONG HOTEL, for their OYSTER EXTRAVAGANZA, which takes place every Friday and Saturday night. For just 2,100++ per person you can discover the authentic taste of fresh imported oysters—including such varieties as Fine de Claire, Calm Cove and Pickering Passage— cooked in different styles or served cold on ice, together with a vast selection of fruit caviar and other local twists. It’s a truly unforgettable gastronomic adventure.

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FOOD & DRINK | valentine‘s day meal deals

On Valentine’s Day the Whole World Becomes “Pink” at Red Sky

Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld | 999/99 Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 | www.centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/cgcw Get ready to fall in love all over again this Valentine Day’s with a lavish set menu on the rooftop. The dinner menu includes an amuse bouche of smoked salmon tartar, medallions of Brittany lobster, Kagoshima Wagyu beef “Wellington”, winter vegetable salad with black truffle vinaigrette, and mouthwatering dessert—a white chocolate Ivori Bavarian cream, with tangy strawberry compote, fresh berries and a decadent green tea sponge. This promotion is available from 6pm onwards on February 14th for B14,555++ per couple, which includes a glass of exclusive Mumm’s N°1 pink champagne.

Celebrate the Sweetest Moment at J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

U Sathorn Bangkok | 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 | www.jaime-bangkok.com Don’t miss the opportunity to impress your loved one on February 14th by spending an intimate Valentine’s Day moment savouring an exquisite candlelight dinner. Head Chef Amerigo Tito Sesti and his team have created a tantalizing 8-course French degustation menu that culminates with a tempting and sensuous dessert. This Valentine’s Dinner is priced at B9,999 per couple, and includes one glass of champagne per person and a red rose for the lady. There’s also a lucky draw for one-night stay (including breakfast) in a Deluxe Room at the U Sathorn Bangkok.

SO Sweet Valentine at SO Sofitel Bangkok

SO Sofitel Bangkok | 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 | www.sofitel.com On February 14th, while Cupid is flitting around the City of Angels doing his thing, the chefs at SO Sofitel Bangkok will be preparing exquisite meals to celebrate the romance of Valentine’s Day. Foodie couples should not miss the lip-smacking dinner buffet spread at Red Oven. This buffet is priced at B1,950++ per person (B2,350++ per person with free flow wine). Another Valentine’s day dining option will be the delectable 4-course set dinner at The Water Club, priced at B7,500++ per couple, including a glass of champagne per person and one red rose.

Presenting a Romantic Valentine’s Dinner at Luce

Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok | 33/1 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 210 8100 | www.eastingrandsathorn.com Bring your Valentine to celebrate an unforgettable romantic night at Luce restaurant, located on the 14th floor of the Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok. Enjoy a special 5-course menu prepared by the hotel’s Chef de Cuisine and his team. Highlights include 150-day grain-fed beef tenderloin on butter-poached Canadian lobster with cauliflower purée, and a fillet of wild-caught turbot slow-simmered “royal acqua pazza” style. This special dinner feast is available from 6pm to 10:30pm on February 14th only, and is priced at B4,900 net per couple.

Valentine Dining, with Japanese ‘Foods of Love’ at Utage

Plaza Athénée Bangkok, a Royal Méridien Hotel | 61 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 650 8800 | www.lemeridien.com/plazaatheneebangkok Romance blossoms and brings couples closer together every Valentine’s Day, especially within the desirous setting of Utage Japanese restaurant at the Plaza Athénée Bangkok. On this night the restaurant’s passionate chefs invite lovebirds to coo over a tender-hearted 7-course menu specially created for the occasion, featuring at least two imported culinary superstars—Matsuzaka beef and Maine lobster. The promotion is priced at B3,800++ per couple, including Shake sashimi, grilled miyazaki, lobster tempura, salmon sushi, a heartshaped matcha pudding, and more. Dinner runs from 6pm to 10:30pm.

Love is in the Air at Splash Pool

Aloft Bangkok Hotel | 35, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 207 7000 | www.alofthotels.com Under the night sky, splash up your love mood on February 14th with this special dinner offer. Aloft Bangkok Hotel’s Valentine’s promotion consists of a four-course menu—with scallops and lobsters making excellent starters. Diners can also choose between main courses such as grilled lamb rack and grilled sea bass. Finally, to end the night in a sweet way, tempt yourself with the chef’s specialty chocolate mousse as your dessert. This dinner is served from 7pm to 10pm and is priced at B1,999 net per couple, including a glass of sparkling wine.

84 | F EBRUA RY 2017

bangkok101.com

hot plate | FOOD & DRINK

Goji Kitchen + Bar

Bangkok’s never-ending love for Sunday brunches continues

he options for Sunday brunches in Bangkok are vast and varied, and with Goji Kitchen + Bar restaurant, at the recently opened Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 22, the city welcomes the latest addition to its front of delectable weekend feasts. Named after the healthy goji berry, the large restaurant is located on the lobby level of the hotel, with seating for 240 persons. The modern, urban-style interior, complete with wooden tables and an open-plan kitchen, is light-flooded thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows on the east side, offering a relaxing view into the greenery of the adjacent Benjasiri Park. Currently, only indoor seating is available, but an outdoor area, as well as a private hotel entrance to the park will be opened soon. The all-day dining spot delivers a mix of regional cuisine and Western fare—both à la carte and buffet are available—as well as a sumptuous Sunday brunch from 12pm to 2:30pm. For B1,800++ (food only, different drink bangkok101.com

packages are available), gourmands can dig into a truly satisfying seafood buffet, including rock lobster, Alaskan crab, and scallops on ice, as well as freshly prepared, and cut maki rolls, sushi, and salmon. In addition, at the first counter upon entering the restaurant, customers are presented with a choice of four different types of freshly shucked oysters. Leaving the crustaceans, for now, a selection of European cold cuts, and cheeses awaits diners in the centre of the restaurant. For a healthier alternative, opt for a customised salad right beside; just pick your favourite leaves, dressing and toppings, and the friendly staff will toss it together in a large mixing bowl right in front of you. Moving on to some heartier and more comforting fare, the restaurant dedicates several counters to international main dishes, ranging from Thai classics, such as stir-fries, som tam, and Northern sausage, to steamed and grilled seafood, dim sum, and Indian curries. In addition, there’s also a large choice of dishes from all over the Western world,

including foie gras, pasta, turkey, the signature suckling pig, Wagyu beef— with a delightful berry sauce—and much more. Finally, make sure to leave room for dessert, as the extensive offering will definitely require more than one round to the sweet counter. From the Thai favourite of mango with a choice of four different flavours of sticky rice, to an array of cakes and many other delicious delights—the tiramisu, and crème brulee were truly amazing— these desserts provide a wonderful finish to an indulgent Sunday brunch. However, the cherry—dark, fresh, and delicious—on top of the ice cream—a handful of flavours are available—is the chocolate fountain with marshmallows and fresh fruit, ready to be dipped into the gush of chocolate. by Julia Offenberger

Goji Kitchen + Bar

LF, Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park 199, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 www.marriott.com F EBRUA RY 2017 | 85

FOOD & DRINK | review

Galleria Milano

Charm-steeped cucina Italiano where classic meets cosmopolitan

et’s face it, most city noshers with international tastes have always taken Bangkok’s impressive community of Italian dining establishments for granted. Indeed, in many of the more upscale downtown districts one is never more than a stone’s throw from a world-class feast inspired by Europe’s boot-shaped treasure trove of culinary heritage. Amid this well-populated dining category, Galleria Milano Restaurant presents discerning diners the opportunity to experience an alluringly uncommon facet of Italian cuisine. Located in the Mille Malle community mall on Sukhumvit Soi 20—in the shadow of the sky-scraping Millennium Towers—this cosy, Italianatedecorated eatery offers an intriguing selection of regional delicacies that 86 | F EBRUA RY 2017

treads both familiar comfort food paths and off-the-map territories. Enthusiastically recommended as a starter, the salad of Puntarelle lettuce with Coppa ham (B380), features a cheekily concealed dollop of creamy Burrata lurking beneath, with the delicate leaves and premium imported cured pork mingling famously with the silky smooth heritage cheese. Fans of the artichoke—that storied and scale-clad hand grenade of the produce world—please take note: this locally hard to find (or afford) vegetable pops up in a two-dish set (priced at B450), the first half of which is an Artichoke salad with black truffle, with one thin shard of dried tuna and one of dried Botaga roe contributing an unassuming seafood finish. By

contrast, there’s nothing subtle about the accompanying Whole, deep-fried Sardinian artichoke which is plated up without pretence or fanfare. And because frying renders them edible, the crunchy, curled up outer leaves offer up a surprisingly tasty textural complement to the tender heart and cap within. This is followed by Falkland Island sea bass (B700), the fillets arriving in a scrum of diced aubergine and tomato sauce, with the succulent fish’s subtle flavour owing to the deep, cold and clean Atlantic waters of its native habitat. For those who think eggs are strictly brekkie-time nosh, the “yolk’s” on you, a pun made possible by the monstrously huge Ricotta and spinach-stuffed raviolo—that terminal “o” means there’s just one—with white truffle (B420). Upon plunging your steely tines deep into the heart of this cycloptic, oven-browned pasta beast-in-a-bowl, a brightly coloured torrent of egg yolk pours forth from within creating a visually dramatic and supremely delicious brunch-ambush of a dish that really should not be missed. Rounding out the meal, the Australian lamb chops (B850) are gorgeously grilled with herbs and come with chopped kale and curry rice cake, along with pools of Marsala speckled with crushed roasted cacao beans, which lend the spice intensive sauce a crunchy, pleasantly earthy undertone. Dessert comes in a pair of Vanilla cream-filled beignets (B220), the light puff-fritters filled to nearly bursting, while a drizzle of orange caramel sauce makes for a palate-dazzling finish. by Chris Michael

Galleria Milano Restaurant Mille Malle community mall 66/4, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Tel: 02 663 4988 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm www.galleriamilanorestaurant.com

bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

La Scala

Hitting an innovative high note

vocative of a time gone by, The Sukhothai Bangkok hotel epitomizes nostalgic design elements and traditional Asian beauty. The prettily lit walkway to Italian gourmet eatery La Scala prepares you for fine dining extraordinaire in a high-end poolside restaurant, with the price tag to match, of course. The unexpected joy is that La Scala is on a whole other level entirely, serving up innovative cuisine that is perfectly executed. The Tartate di manzo e condimenti di stagione (B1,280) sets the gourmet tone with Australian Black Angus beef tartare with crispy Jerusalem artichoke, black truffle, and marinated egg yolk. The Polipo e patata (B880), crispy potato skins with foam, grilled Sicilian octopus, and an olive sauce, is a labour of love to prepare. The complexity of the culinary process pays off with the best creamy potato dish ever created. The Coniglio arrosto alla ligure (B1,980), roasted French rabbit with olive, pine nuts, and thyme, is a delicately cooked dish artistically presented. However, the Merluzzo nero in acqua di cipolle e coriandolo bangkok101.com

(B1,800), a Glacier 51 toothfish from Antarctica, basted and poached with pickle shallot, consommé and coriander, is cooked exceptionally—a standout dish to savor and marvel at. The Spaghetti alle melanzane bruciate e ricotta dura (B980) is spaghetti with BBQ smoked eggplant, ricotta, and the sweetest date tomatoes. The pasta is cooked in the juice from a kilo of eggplants and the smoky flavour is definitely different, and an acquired taste. So too is the Ravioli di mortadella e champagne (B980), Mortadella-filled ravioli with Parmigiano cream and Champagne foam. The concept of a high-end, rustic cold cut sounds interesting, although the sweet, dry and meaty taste is not for all palates. Dessert-wise, the Tortino al choccolato (B400), a chocolate fondant with caramelized butter, fruits and vanilla ice cream is even more divine that it sounds, if that is possible. The Fichi, noci e limone con gelato all aceto (B400) is an extraordinary mix of vinegar ice cream served with figs, walnuts, and lemon jam—confusing then exciting the taste buds.

With its open island kitchen, beautifully thin wooden tables, and 1930s chairs, there is a design aesthetic to every element. The effect is to create a surprisingly laid-back feel that still feels “special occasion”. Tuscan native, Chef David Tamburini comes from Michelin-star stock and his skill, knowledge and commitment to the culinary creations define every dish. And whilst good service is part of most upscale restaurants—often barely worthy of a mention—the engagement and interaction with the restaurant staff is pleasant, personable, and refreshingly “normal”. La Scala is traditional in that it goes back to that classic artistic, chef-style cooking, of preparing dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour. However, its confident menu is modern, appetizing, and wonderfully different. by Nadia Willan

The Sukhothai Bangkok

13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: Lunch, Mon-Sun, 12pm-2:30pm, Dinner, Mon-Sun, 6:30pm-11pm www.sukhothai.com F EBRUA RY 2017 | 87

FOOD & DRINK | review

Vertigo Too

“High anxiety” for the chronic gastronome

t’s no easy task to repurpose a word that normally describes a psychological affliction into one synonymous with fine dining, worldly elegant ambience, and skyline-strafing city vistas, but the Banyan Tree Bangkok Hotel has managed to pull off the lexicon-altering feat with its toastof-the-town Vertigo Too restaurant. The way-cool 60th-floor venue exudes a terribly tony club vibe—with muted, dancefloor lighting and live jazz—made all the more spectacular with picture windows offering a drone’s view of the town over which it towers. And those sweeping vistas are the perfect setting to savour a selection or two from the extensive list of cocktail creations, such as The Haole (B450)—a Bacardi Legacy Global Cocktail Competition 2016 Global Finalist creation that mixes Bacardi carta blanca rum, Bianco vermouth, pineapple syrup and ginger ale—or The Spring Field (B500), a smoothsipping blend of Ketel One vodka, strawberry, cranberry, Monin rose and strawberry syrup (with a frothy egg-white capper which mercilessly en-moustaches those who exercise insufficient care in quaffing). For diners, a menu of tantalizing international and modern Thai fare is presented on über-modern, leatherbound tablet screens, and includes favourites like the signature Thai fried squid legs (B450). While calamari is not an unusual dish, Vertigo Too invokes the soul of Thai cuisine by adding khao kua (roasted rice) to the breading—giving it a crunchy bite and nutty finish—along with a precisionnozzled squeeze-tube of Srirachamayo sauce on the side. Another locally-inspired nibble, the Tom Yum roll (B510) is redolent of the world-famous Thai soup, while the dry ice misted ‘Seafood Lover’ sharing platter will sate the heartiest crustacean craving—brimming with Alaskan king crab, Hokkaido scallops, tiger and river prawns, Australian blue shell mussels 88 | F EBRUA RY 2017

and sashimi, along with traditional tangy-spicy Thai dipping sauces. Some of the sky-high gastrolounge’s newest menu additions include Grilled giant octopus (B550), which arrives with a swatch of deepest black octo-ink framing the tender pieces of sesame oil and soy-marinated cephalopod, as well as white wine garlic sauce, and orange and paprika aioli accompaniments. Again the mini squeeze-tube pops up, this time decanting a spicy Thai herb sauce over the Salmon ceviche (B500), which features rolled slices of Norwegian salmon with fresh herbs. And finally, the block-cut Roasted French-imported duck breast (B550)—a Euro-cuisine classic—is seared just-so, with the requisite orange purée along with fresh orange,

baby beetroot and pea shoot in port wine reduction. Regardless their religious persuasion, diners ordering the Chocolate heaven (B280) for dessert will enjoy a glimpse of confection paradise as they put their tines to the fine imported-chocolate cake with decadently smooth ganache filling, cookie crumble and fresh berries, with a tart pomegranate foam providing a nuanced counterpoint to the dish’s suite of chocolaty sweetness. by Chris Michael

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant 60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 www.banyantree.com

bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Slanted Taco

Bringing the flavours of the Mexican street to Bangkok

ny Bangkok resident who loves Mexican food knows Jorge Bernal. A born-andbred Mexico City native, Bernal first opened Tacos & Salsa, on Sukhumvit Soi 18, eight years ago, and starting with his mother’s home recipes, the jovial self-taught Mexican chef introduced Bangkok to flavour profiles theretofore unseen. Slanted Taco, his latest venture, sits comfortably in a simply decorated spot between Whisgar’s and Craft, on Sukhumvit Soi 23. With more investment and more marketing behind him, Bernal has finally found a platform to fulfill his mission of bringing the flavours of the Mexican street to Bangkok. Bernal designed and built his own tortilla press, and using masa de maiz—a specialty dough made from nixtamal corn from Mexico—makes fresh, homemade corn tortillas for use with tacos and enchiladas. As far as we know, Slanted Taco is the only restaurant in Thailand serving fresh corn tortillas. Bernal is also the only Mexican chef in town making his own chorizo, bangkok101.com

the spicy crumbly Mexican sausage that tastes great in tacos or in the Choriqueso (B250), a maddeningly moreish starter of chorizo and melted cheese, served warm with fresh flour tortillas. What seems impossible for other Mexican joints in town—a good taco—comes easy to Bernal, especially the grilled beef version, a classic taco de carne asada in which the meat is chopped on the grill, just like in Mexico. Other available fillings include Mexican-style roast chicken, carnitas, tinga, chorizo, sea bass, prawn and sautéed mushrooms. The tacos run just B70-90, or you can order three for B200-260. The Pozole (B180)—nixtmala corn soup, authentically served with red radish and oregano—was a winner as well. Huevos rancheros (B200) and Breakfast burritos (B200) are available all day, and the menu also boasts a few items from Mexican Americana, such as Fajitas (B580) and Wet burritos (B290). In addition, all salsas are fresh and handmade (none contain vinegar), and there is no bottled ‘hot sauce’ here.

The cozy bar to one side of the dining room boasts 22 tequilas—all of them 100 percent agave—as well as four artisanal mezcals. Margarita addicts should try the Devil Margarita Machurat (B380), served in a glass rubbed with honey, salt, chili, lime, and serrano chile. If you prefer tequila neat (B280), skip the lime and salt shaker business and ask for a chaser of sangrita—a shot of tomato juice, orange juice, lime, grenadine, and chili—available by special request. A short list of Mexican beers is also available. To end the meal, we enjoyed Pastel de tres leches (B80) a rich traditional cake made with three different kinds of milk. For an extra kick, drop a shot of El Jimador on top, as we did. by Joe Cummings/CPA Media

Slanted Taco

Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 0546 Open: Mon-Fri, 4pm-1am Sat-Sun, 2pm-1am www.slantedtaco.com F EBRUA RY 2017 | 89

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with the Il Fumo crew

Kindred spirits ignite at the ‘House of Smoke’

f the sign of a standout restaurant is about foodie passion, then Chef-Partner Luca Appino’s heartfelt amour for sourcing unique artisan foods is ardent enough to make even Bangkok’s most jaded dining darlings swoon. His love of personally sourcing the most incredible ingredients from small producers, who are equally as committed, is attracting discerning fans to the smart tables at Il Fumo. Luca’s philosophy here revolves around the importance of respecting premium ingredients. “We travel and personally go to meet the producers,” he explains. “We believe that products 90 | F EBRUA RY 2017

are the people behind them. We spend time with producers. We meet them face-to-face and they become like family. We see what they are producing and how; the passion and attention. Some are personal friends and some we find, seeking out artisans who are making something original.” Tucked away in a lovely house off busy Rama IV, close to Sathorn 1, the ambiance at Il Fumo is of a wealthy, but not showy, family’s country retreat; an old-money vibe that fits the grown-up attitude to quality foods. The restaurant defies Bangkok’s penchant for on-trend food fads by presenting a contemporary Italian

wood charcoal grill restaurant. With Luca’s dedication to authenticity, the imported woods are turned into charcoal at Il Fumo—which means “smoke” in Italian—and the prime meats are displayed on industrial racks in glass chillers for customers to see; a food-inspired artistic installation. Many of the meats here are exclusive to the restaurant in Thailand such as the Rubia Gallega beef from Galicia in Spain. “We had heard about how good the meat was and we went to meet the butcher in San Sebastian who hand selects the best beef,” Luca says. “The rearing is hands-on and I’ve bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

heard they even pinch the cow’s hind to make it happy. Another exclusive is the Ca’ Lumaco Estate pork and Il Fumo is the only restaurant outside Italy they supply.” Italian-born Luca was heading Enoteca restaurant in Bangkok, when he first met Managing Partner of Il Fumo, Choti Leenutaphong. Luca later founded La Bottega di Luca restaurant, and in 2014, the two of them partnered to open Vesper Bar & Restaurant on Soi Convent. Choti is a kindred-food-spirit. “I was travelling in Europe and I came across a wonderfully-grilled piece of fiorentina steak in Tuscany,” he recalls. “It was fantastic and I had to meet the producers. This is how we sourced our signature Tuscan Chianina dry-aged fiorentina steak and prime rib.” On the menu at Il Fumo the beetroot-cured amberjack game fish is velvety soft, while the burrata from a producer in Puglia makes the dish. The trio of beef tartare appetizer is made with Piedmont Fassone meat— reared in a small region of Italy—and the texture is the tenderest quality. Homemade lobster ravioli looks bangkok101.com

incredible on the plate with Hokkaido scallops, tiger prawns, and crabmeat, together with a seafood emulsion that is lifted with a baby spinach cream sauce. But the pièce de résistance is the French Limousin steak, a charcoal grilled, free-range, grass-fed beef from France. The prime rib is dry-aged for 20 days and scoop of fondant potato and asparagus add to the sublime flavour of a meat that is a cut above the best in Bangkok. The Nutella-filled homemade doughnut pastry from Tuscany shows that high-end can still be fun too. New to the team here (since 2016) is Head Chef Nelson Amorim from Portugal who believes, “fusion often leads to confusion” and values the opportunity to work with a team that lets quality ingredients take the lead. What is impressive is how this restaurant showcases these incredible foodie finds which have never before been presented on Bangkok dining tables. The purity of the quality is not diminished by the desire to be creative and Luca welcomes talent and good taste.

“Nelson is innovative and compared to a few years ago today’s diners in Bangkok are sophisticated, willing to try something different,” he notes. “The mind of the gourmand has changed massively in Bangkok and restaurants are changing too. Our customers understand our philosophy and are looking for new tastes.” The finely-sourced produce gives the restaurant an upmarket individuality which is an essential quality in Bangkok’s expanding restaurant scene. However, behind the grandness of the artisan showcase is a wonderful sentiment, as Nelson explains. “When you sell good food in a great environment you are selling happiness,” he says. “Food is happiness and cooking is about making customers feel happy. Fine dining is almost old-fashioned, people want to feel relaxed but still eat the best food.” For Luca, being a chef is an innate artistic expression. “When you start to see your job as creativity your passion comes true. You don’t choose to become a chef, it chooses you.” interview by Nadia Willan F EBRUA RY 2017 | 91

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

All Day Breakfast in the Old Coffee House

he historic On Lok Yun coffee house has been serving breakfast longer than I’ve been alive, and is older even than my mother! It’s a breakfast institution from yesteryear that is still in business today. Miraculously, On Lok Yun retains the atmosphere and menu from those days of yore. The feeling of an

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 92 | F EBRUA RY 2017

old Chinese shophouse greets you at every turn—from the shop sign on the street side and the wood-framed window displays, to the round table and chair sets inside, and the wall of back-to-back train-bench style booths. This place is well-known for serving the Western-meets-Oriental-style of breakfast that used to draw people from all classes and occupations to share the same space together. I normally go for breakfast in the afternoon, after a long sweaty shopping spree around the Little India area (loaded down with bags of fabric and goodies to carry home). The servers always greet everyone who walks into the cafe with cool Chinese tea to relax with before ordering anything. This small gesture is truly precious as it’s the way in the past that all people in Thailand treated their customers or guests. As far as I know, their all-day breakfast menu has remained pretty much unchanged and definitively simple—fried eggs, sausages, bread, and coffee. But unlike so many modern imitators and guesthouses, each of these is carefully and deliciously prepared. They offer white

pepper, salt, tomato ketchup and Maggie (dark, light soya sauce) for seasoning. My regular egg dish is a soft-boiled egg in a juice glass (really runny), and my joy is to mix in Maggie sauce and pepper and slurp it by the tea spoonful. My beloved bread dish is their toast dipped in egg or the Western version of French toast. Another of their popular dishes is Khanompang Sangkaya (bread and egg custard dip). I like steamed soft bread that I can dip in the “sangkaya” but you can try the toast for a crispy effect. Their hot coffee is just simple, ready-to-make coffee, and nothing to get too excited about, but the other favourite drink I order that goes along so wonderfully with my afternoon breakfast is iced-coffee or iced-Milo (chocolate milk). Honestly, I would be (almost!) equally happy to go to On Lok Yun just to sit and watch, because they serve up a nostalgic atmosphere as much as their many great tastes. Address: On Lok Yun is on Charoen Krung Rd, between the Old Siam and Sala Chalermkrung. It is open every day from 6am to 4pm. bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com

Liu

A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes. 3F, Conrad Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Shang Palace

The interior is elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts. 3F, Shangri-La Hotel 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun, 11am-3pm www.shangri-la.com

L’Appart

One of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse. Traditional cuisine charts an adventurous new course. 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 126 9999 Open daily: 7pm-10:30pm, Lounge, 5pm-1am www.sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com

La Vie

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at the elegant new La Vie restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

Bawarchi

The kind of curries you’ve been missing— rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious. Check out any one of Bawarchi’s Bangkok four locations. BF, Intercontinental Chidlom 973 Ploenchit Rd, Tel: 02 656 0101-3 1F, Ambassador Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 253 2394 India-Thai Chamber of Commerce Building, Sathorn Soi 1, Tel: 02 677 6249 20/11, Sukhumvit Soi 4, Tel: 02 656 7357 www.bawarchiindian.com

An ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect while dialling down the stodge and oiliness, a riff on Indian-Chinese—or Himalayan— combinations. 71, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 258 4900 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight www.indusbangkok.com

INTERNATIONAL

Bunker

Classically trained in French cuisine, and committed to the Slow Food movement, Chef Arnie—a new devotee of Thai cuisine—is a one-man melting pot. Take cover from ho-hum cuisine. 118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com

Coconut Terrace

Charcoal

This small hotel outlet takes an equally compact menu—five starters, a few soups, a few fish, and meat mains—and creates big flavours. Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside, 72/4 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 688 1000 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.ramadaplazamenamriverside.com

Charcoal

Elements

Chez Pape

94 | F EBRUA RY 2017

Indus

INDIAN

FRENCH The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed. 2/7, Soi Sukhumvit 11 Tel: 02 255 2492 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 5pm-11pm www.chezpape.com

5F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 089 307 1111 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.charcoalbkk.com

No sloppy curries swimming in ghee–only sophisticated interpretations of tandoorgrilled delicacies enjoyed by the Moghuls of old, and a unique selection of cocktails with intriguing Indian twists.

An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” the menu is divided into an à la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a delicious vegetarian option. bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com

Salt

A hipster’s dream, this gastro bar with a post-modern finish offers everything from fresh sashimi platters to generously-dressed, thin-crust pizzas cooked over a proper wood fire. Phahonyothin 7 (Corner Soi Ari 4) Tel: 02 619 6886 Open: 6pm-midnight www.saltbangkok.com

culinary approach lends this restaurant a decorous air befitting its operatic name. Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd Tel: 02 541 1234 Open: Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, 8pm-10:30pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Wine Connection Tapas Bar & Bistro

Harvest

Rustic to the core, this wood-decorated venue relies heavily on Mediterranean influences and high-quality seafood. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02 262 0762, 09 7235 8286 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight www.facebook.com/HARVESTrestaurantBKK

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Enjoy a variety of tapas and other eclectic menu items, plus a great selection of wines. The elegant yet casual atmosphere makes it suitable for everyone—families, friends, or duos on dates. GF, Rain Hill, 777, Sukhumvit Soi 47 Tel: 02 261 7217 Open daily: 11am-1:30am www.wineconnection.co.th

ITALIAN Don Giovanni

The menu is full of home-style recipes, the concept rarely straying from traditional Italian. Along with neo-classical décor, the

Italics

Using ingredients sourced directly from Thai farmers and artisans, Italics provides an intriguing take on Italian classics. Interesting combinations abound, and there’s plenty of wine, as well as a stellar espresso to end your meal. 63/3 Soi Ruamrudee Tel: 02 253 2410 Open daily: 11:30am-10pm www.italicsrestaurant.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings 18F, Zen World@Central World Tel: 02 100 9000 Open daily: 5:30pm-11:30pm www.shintoribangkok.com

KOREAN

YTSB

Scalini

Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists. Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 620 6666 Open daily: Noon-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm www.hilton.com

The name is short for “Yellow Tail Sushi Bar”, which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. It isn’t all about yellowtail, either— there’s real variety on the menu. 4F, Vie Hotel 117/39-40 Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30 pm, 6pm-11pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

JAPANESE Shintori

If you’re looking for a dinner that impresses on all fronts, the combination of an equally thrilling setting and exciting food is hard to find.

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Joha

A cozy little Korean restaurant tucked away in the cool semi-suburban neighbourhood of Ari, offering a fresh take on authentic Korean cuisine together with a chic, contemporary interior. 59/2, Phahonyothin Soi 7 Tel: 097 247 9777 Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-9pm www.facebook.com/Johakoreanrestaurant

Theo Mio

The Italian kitchen concept by British celebrity chef Theo Randall, which focuses on exciting seasonal menus created from top quality ingredients. GF, InterContinental Bangkok 973 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0444 Open daily: 7:30am-midnight www.facebook.com/theomioitaliankitchen

Joha

Kong Ju

Yuutaro

Sushi and sashimi purists take note, a staggering ninety percent of the seafood selected from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. 5F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloenchit Rd. Tel: 02 160 5880-1 Open daily: 11am-10:30pm www.yuutaro.com

When you’re voted Bangkok’s favourite Korean restaurant 13 years running you must be doing something right. The chefs here go to painstaking lengths to ensure an authentic dining experience, by preparing meals of unparalleled culinary brilliance. Highly recommended. 2F, Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 444, MBK Center, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 216 3700 Open daily: Lunch, 11:30am-2pm, Dinner, 5:30pm-10pm www.pprincess.com

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listings | FOOD & DRINK

MIDDLE EASTERN Arabesque

The menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures. Includes Middle Eastern favourites such as hummus, moussaka and tagine (clay pot stews), as well as dishes you may not recognize. 68/1, Sukhumvit Soi 2 Tel: 02 656 9440-1 Open daily: noon-midnight www.arabesquebangkok.com

Beirut

A Bangkok classic serving classic Lebanese dishes at reasonable prices. The hummus and falafel are praiseworthy. Sukhumvit Soi 2, Ploenchit Center Tel: 02 656 7377 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.beirut-restaurant.com

MEXICAN La Monita Taqueria

If you’re looking for classic, affordable, Mexican fare that still packs some serious fireworks, then check out any

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of La Monita’s three downtown locales. Load up on guacamole, burritos, fajitas, quesadillas, and soft corn tacos, all washed down with some wonderfully potent margaritas. Mahatun Plaza, Tel: 02 650 9581 GF, Siam Paragon, Tel: 02 650 9581 7F, EmQuartier, Tel: 02 003 6238 www.lamonita.com

89, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 261 2071-5 Open daily: 11:30am-11:30pm www.seafood.co.th

Méjico

The menu tackles traditions long ignored, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer. 2F, Groove@Central World Tel: 02 252 6660 Open daily: 11am-late www.facebook.com/MejicoThailand

SEAFOOD Raw Bar

Oysters, tartare, carpaccio, ceviche: it’s all raw here, and it’s all very good. A nice low-key spot to shuck some shellfish and hang out with friends. 440/9, Sukhumvit 55 Tel: 02 713 8335 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight www.facebook.com/TheRawBarBKK

Seafood Market and Restaurant

Fresh, high-quality seafood in the heart of the city. The interior is aquarium-like, making it a fun place for dinner with family and friends. There’s also tons of local and imported seafood for sale.

The Oyster Bar

You know a restaurant takes seafood seriously when several pages of the menu are devoted entirely to oysters. 395, Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 Tel: 02 212 4809 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-11pm, Sun, noon-10pm www.theoysterbarbangkok.com

SPANISH/LATIN Barcelona Gaudí

The chef and founding partners are proud of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows in the incredible tapas on the menu, from prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the traditional Sunday paella. Mucho gusto! Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 Tel: 02 661 7410 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-11pm www.facebook.com/barcelonagaudithailand

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

STEAK & BURGER

VIETNAMESE

Meat & Bones

Nothing represents the very soul of stateside cooking than a smokehouse BBQ, and here the slow-smoked ribs are as traditional as it gets. The name says it all. The Commons, Thong Lor 17 Tel: 081 933 7143 Open: Mon-Thu, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm, Fri-Sun, 11:30am-10:30pm facebook.com/meatandbonesbangkok

THAI Baan

This widely popular restaurant offers traditional recipes collected from the chef’s family with the stylishly modern dining room and an open kitchen. 139/5 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 655 8995 Open: Wed-Mon 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.baanbkk.com

Le Dalat

The newest branch of stately Le Dalat finds it in unusual territory—a high-end shopping mall—but its fresh Vietnamese fare is still as impeccable as ever. 7F, The Emquartier Mall, 651 Sukhumvit Rd,Tel: 02 269 1000 Open daily: 10am-10pm 57, Soi Prasarnmitr, Sukhumvit 23,

VEGETARIAN Broccoli Revolution

Baan Rub Rong

One of the few restaurants in the area that we can confidently say is worth the effort to track down. A plainly attired, affordable bastion of very good Thai food, made the old-fashioned way. 8 Soi Mooban Seri Villa (Srinakarin Soi 55) Tel: 02 185 6029 Open: 10am-10pm www.baanrubrong.com

Erawan Tea Room

Known for its amazing high tea, this place also serves traditional Thai cuisine in a nostalgic setting that overlooks the consistently crowded Erawan Shrine. Packaged products and a wide selection of teas from India, China, Sri Lanka, and Thailand are also available. 2F, Erawan Bangkok Mall, 494 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 6250 Open daily: 10am-10pm, Afternoon Tea 2:30pm-6pm www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com 98 | F EBRUA RY 2017

The brick-walled warehouse turned veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in the most stubborn carnivore. 899 Sukhumvit Rd. (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 Open daily: 7am-10pm Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

CAFÉ Kiosk Café

Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boite is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cake-and-chat, or a hot coffee. 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com

Not Just Another Cup

This cozy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to cold-pressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464 Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup bangkok101.com

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Ron Zacapa rum helps bring the world's first evolving cocktail installation to Zuma Bangkok

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE rum re-invented

ZUMA BANGKOK, the contemporary Japanese restaurant at THE ST REGIS BANGKOK, in partnership with RON ZACAPA rum, recently launched the Bangkok edition of ‘Zuma Zacapa Live Solera’, billed as the world’s first evolving cocktail system. This custom-designed cocktail contraption will be installed in Bangkok and eight other Zuma restaurants across the world, delivering an original cocktail in each location, designed to appeal to local palates and to perfectly complement Zuma’s cuisine. The exclusive flavours Bangkok residents can enjoy include: ginger and lemongrass liqueur; chocolate and chilli; and bitters pomelo zest tea. www.facebook.com/ZumaBangkok

spanish gipsy nights If you can’t get enough of Spanish culture and cuisine, head over to UNO MAS, the tapas bar and Spanish restaurant located on the 54th floor of the CENTARA GRAND at CentralWorld, every Wednesday for their weekly GIPSY NIGHTS. From 6:30pm to 9:30pm partake in one of four special drink promotions, with each drink priced at only B99++. Choose either a classic gin tonic, a classic martini (made with London N°1 gin), Estrella draught beer, or a fruity Sangria—original or blanco. Meanwhile, the vivacious and passionate live music of talented singer and guitarist KEITH DE MAGALHAES creates an authentic backdrop, transporting customers right into the heart of an authentic Spanish taverna. www.unomasbangkok.com

tapas for two Add a little Spanish spirit to your night out at TAPAS Y VINO, located at the PULLMAN BANGKOK GRANDE SUKHUMVIT, where the restaurant is currently presenting their new à la carte and set menu choices, highlighting Spanish culinary favourites. And, just in time for Valentine’s day, Executive Chef PEDRO CARRILLO has also put together a ‘Taste of Spain’ set menu for two, which includes four tapas, a choice of paella or other main course, churros for dessert, and either one pitcher of Sangria or one bottle of house wine (priced at B1,700++ per set). www.pullmanbangkokgrandesukhumvit.com

choosing sides on valentine’s day The FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON BANGKOK (Sukhumvit Soi 15) gives people the choice this February 14th of being either pro- or anti-VALENTINE’S DAY. If you’re a lover of love, head to AMBAR, the pool lounge located on the hotel’s 8th floor rooftop and indulge your special someone with a Martini Prosecco and five oyster pairing set for B2,200 net. However, if you’re single and sour about it, make your way to THE DRUNKEN LEPRECHAUN and celebrate with a special selection of ‘Broken Heart Shots’ for B200 each. There’s also an all-you-can-love beer buffet for B999 per person, which lasts from 8pm-11pm. Perhaps you’ll even meet a kindred spirit, and this Valentine’s day won’t turn out so bad after all. bangkok101.com

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NIGHTLIFE | review

Gypsy Spells

Where “spirits” lurk behind the bar... and possibly beyond

ans of themed bars may enjoy Gypsy Spells, an establishment focused on fortune telling, live music, and Thai legends. Adjacent to the long-standing Myth of Mahanaga restaurant, located at the mouth of Sukhumvit Soi 29, the lounge is housed in a century-old colonial-style house that used to be situated next to Chao Phraya River. The walls are covered with oversized tarot cards, and weekend nights a fortune teller is present to provide readings. The original house owner was allegedly a great admirer of François Girard’s 1998 film The Red Violin, and the bar was designed after the movie—with additional gypsy flourishes and what look like London lanterns. The emphasis on red is unmistakable, and a lovely carved cabinet with mirror occupies the center of the wall behind the bar. Part of the house’s spooky legend is that the owner’s wife died and— some Thais speculated—because the husband’s family may not have approved of the marriage, spirits once resided in the dwelling.

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The bar's interior is dark, edged by sofas, and large parties will savour the seclusion of a long table upstairs that looks down upon a courtyard. Bartender An recommended an Around the World (B290), featuring vodka, triple sec, gin, white rum, tequila, scotch whiskey, midori, and sweet and sour, which tasted oddly mild for a cocktail with so much alcohol in it. Never shy about partaking in ya dong, the herbal moonshine believed to offer health benefits, the five-shot Ya Dong Experience (B500)—available till Valentine's Day—was a mixed bag. A couple of the concoctions tasted a bit clean and watered down, lacking the astringent kick on the back of the tongue. But the Mao Tse Tung shot was a showstopper, redolent in angelica root and other herbs, providing a warming tang on the finish. By contrast, the Wazatini (B290) will put your appreciation of wasabi to the test, as the martini is an explosion of pastoral sweet and bitter on the palate.

Gypsy Spells even made the effort to bring in a tarot card reader to work with An to develop drinks based on the zodiac, with the reader believing people born under certain signs share characteristics and thus will share taste preferences. The bar schedules live gypsy jazz music on Friday nights and blues on Saturdays. The tunes playing during my visit did feature an accordion, but certainly didn’t qualify entirely as gypsy music. Patrons can also order food from the full menu of Myth of Mahanaga restaurant, including a line-up of drinking snacks or gap klaem. The Gai Tod Som Tum (B280), classic Thai fried chicken with papaya salad, went down easy with the cocktails. by Robin Banks

Gypsy Spells

2, Sukhumvit Soi 29 Tel: 02 662 3060 Open daily 5:30pm to midnight www.mahanaga.com bangkok101.com

review | NIGHTLIFE

Cielo Sky Bar

Unbeatable views and a bartender who really knows his booze

lthough the word is spreading, Cielo might still be Bangkok’s best-kept secret. Set atop what is easily the tallest building in Phra Khanong, and boasting a bar manager who has notched 24 wins in cocktail competitions across the world since 2004, this rooftop retreat has quite the pedigree. Not to mention fair prices and an ambiance more business-casual than black-tie. Separated into a half-dozen zones with Spanish names—from indoor dining in “Capricho” to tables spread across “Paso,” or the terrace in other words—Cielo is about as big as a rooftop bar-restaurant can be. When the weather is nice, as it is now, the terrace is a beautiful place to spend an evening with friends, or stoke the fires of romance. Looking out over the Rama IV-Sukhumvit intersection, the 360-degree view is unimpeded. At night this is truly as good as it gets. But one of the better seats in the house is actually found at the bar—at least for those who want more of a tailored taste of bar manager Suwan ‘Tommy’ Seeree’s style. bangkok101.com

Now in his late thirties, Tommy looks barely out of secondary school, and his enthusiasm for his work likewise belies his age. This 17-year veteran of the industry actually began work as a motorcycle taxi driver. After landing a job at a restaurant, he found a calling in bartending, becoming so successful he would travel to Turin and Bordeaux to compete in competitions. In charge of Cielo for roughly a year, the always-smiling Tommy claims one of the most impressive collections of bitters in town—at least a dozen varieties—and he’ll gladly go off menu too if you ask to try some of them in a drink. He might even pull out one of his homemade concoctions, such as beetroot-, roselle-, and lavender-infused gin; with celery bitters and Fever Tree Indian tonic water, it makes an earthy, almost Bloody Mary-like G&T. At the last competition he won, Tommy even turned humble Mekhong whiskey into a work of art with muddled pineapple, pandan syrup, and Perrier. For Valentine’s Day this year he plans to unveil a cocktail made

with red wine-infused strawberries and chocolate bitters. Clearly creative, he admits that a love for his native land informs Cielo’s signature drinks. For instance, the Life of Native (B420), a blend of Cognac VS, ginger, lime, cardamom, and vanilla, garnished with dried pineapple and served in a glass wrapped with a bamboo basket, is infused with the flavours—and fun spirit—of Thailand. To appeal to the local palate, many drinks have sweet, fruity profiles. Mexi’s Malone (B420), light and bright with Midori and apple espuma; Julep Forty-Six (B420), with pandan-infused vodka, pineapple, and jasmine syrup. Ask Tommy to tap into his arsenal, however, and the options become as limitless as the view. by Craig Sauers

Cielo Sky Bar

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NIGHTLIFE | connoisseur corner

Wine News & Events By Bruce Scott

PB Valley Estate Harvest Festival

ebruary means it’s harvest time for many of Thailand’s wineries, especially up in the wine growing region Khao Yai (see more in our travel feature on pg. 46). To celebrate this auspicious time, two of the region’s biggest wine producers are holding special wine festival events so that visitors can join in on the bacchanalian bounty. GranMonte Vineyard & Winery is once again presenting their annual GranMonte Harvest Month, which takes place throughout February. The month-long event offers activities to all visiting families and wine lovers, with special Harvest Tour packages. The tour takes guests through the picturesque vineyard and gets them try their hands at wine grape harvesting. Afterwards, visitors learn a bit about tropical winemaking by the winery’s resident oenologist Nikki Lohitnavy (pictured, top left). Finally, a tasting of the vineyard’s premium wines, at GranMonte Cellar Door, concludes the excursion, but the tour package—priced at B950 net—also includes a special harvest-themed three-course set lunch or dinner at Vin Cotto, the winery’s on-site restaurant. The tours run daily, from 10am till 3pm (4pm on weekends), and reservations are highly recommended. Of course, the big event in February at GranMonte is the Annual Harvest Festival which will be held this year on the 18th and 19th (Saturday and Sunday). The fun begins with a dinner party on Saturday evening, when revellers are treated to a sumptuous buffet, free flow of wine, and a mini-concert. Then the harvest and grapepicking competition begins on Sunday morning at 8am, and concludes with a delicious gourmet lunch. Admission for the two-day event is B5,400 net per adult. For more information, or to make your reservation, visit www.granmonte.com.

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Another vineyard celebrating the harvest in grand style is PB Valley Estate, and this year their Harvest Festival 2017 coincides with the official grand opening of the PB Valley Flower Park. On Saturday, February 4th, the day long festival kicks off at 1pm, followed by a tour of the winery at 2:30pm, and a tour of the flower park at 3pm. After the grand ribbon cutting ceremony, the main activities—including a grape harvesting competition and a grape stomping competition—begin at 4pm. At 6:30pm a reception introducing PB’s wine maker Mr. Joolpeera Saitrakul gets underway, followed by a BBQ dinner buffet at 7pm, with live band accompaniment. The afternoon harvest activities on their own are B490 net (children aged 4 to 12 get a 50 percent discount), while the afternoon activities plus cocktail reception and dinner is priced at B2,000 net (children aged 4 to 12 get a 50 percent discount). For more information, or to make your reservation, visit www.khaoyaiwinery.com. Meanwhile, closer to home, G Four Fine Wines invites wine aficionados to enjoy an evening of seductive wines and superb Italian fare at Luce restaurant, located on the 14th floor of the Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn. Entitled the Amarone Classico Journey Night, the celebration begins at 7pm on Friday, February 3rd, as delightfully authentic Italian cuisine is paired with majestic Zenato wines, with the renowned Amarone Classico being one of many highlights of the night. In total, five distinctly different wines from Zenato have been specially selected to perfectly pair with the menu, and brand ambassador Francois Aviloff will act as guest speaker—explaining the subtleties of each vintage. The evening’s indulgence, which also includes a live jazz band, is priced at B1,490 net per person. For information and reservations call 02 210 8100 ext.7502, or e-mail: fbadmin@eastingrandsathorn.com. bangkok101.com

NIGHTLIFE | listings

BARS

Brew

See and be seen at any one of the city’s three Brew. All have a healthy list of foreign brews and cider on tap. A beerlover’s dream. 1F, Seen Space, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor), Tel: 02 185 2366 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 185 2366 Asiatique, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 108 8744 www.brewbkk.com

Bronx Liquid Parlour

This half-hidden tippling spot brings something of a higher class of cocktail culture to the Thong Lor strip. Stylish interiors and exotic cocktail menus make it even more distinctive—a perfect combination of Tokyo, New York, and London in one bar. 8, Thonglor Soi 25 Tel: 02 036 6071 Open: Tue-Sun, 7pm-2am www.bronxbkk.com

Rabbit Hole

A proper cocktail bar, run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What's more, the personable bartenders really know their spirits. 125, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 081 822 3392 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/rabbitholebkk

Ensconced in a hipster-chic, glassencased nook, this Old Town craft cocktails mecca features a rotating menu of daily drink specials and a mad scientist barman bent on experimentation, and home brewing his own spirits. 47/1 Phra Arthit Rd. Tel: 081 406 3773 Open: Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight instagram.com/rarbbyescapade

The Living Room

Home to one of the finest live jazz venues in Bangkok, this nightspot is tastefully decorated, and includes a sweeping bar, comfortable armchairs and sofas, and subdued lighting—not to mention fine whiskies, cocktails, and cognacs. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 1F, 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 9am-midnight Tel: 02 649 8353 www.thelivingroomatbangkok.com

Vogue Lounge

This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and formerly chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks. MahaNakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com

Wishbeer Home Bar

It’s back and bigger than ever with new digs on the corner of Sukhumvit 67, where, though it remains a work in progress, it already welcomes satisfied beer drinkers by the dozens each night. Sukhumvit Soi 67 Tel: 02 392 1403 Open daily: 7:30am-1am www.wishbeerhomebar.com

This retro cocktail bar promises only top-shelf spirits, housemade mixers, and fresh garnishes. Meanwhile, live music by renowned jazz musicians creates a close-knit vibe. GF, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

Touché Hombre

Inblu Bar

Touché Hombre

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One of the most enticing small bars in Bangkok, a hideaway that exudes class, where you can get cocktails made to your exact specifications. Sathorn Soi 12 Tel: 02 635 0406 Open: Tue-Sat, 6pm-1am www.avunculus.com

Rarb

Evil Man Blues

Located on the hotel’s lobby level, this stylish drink spot offers an extensive selection of beers, whiskies, cocktails, and wines, plus tasty nibbles and great live music seven days a week. Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.pullmanbankokgrandesukhumvit.com

U.N.C.L.E.

This hugely popular Mexican bar and restaurant offers curious customers a chance to sample the finest mezcals and top-end tequilas, as well as superb Mexican-inspired dishes. 2F, 72 Courtyard Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7760 Open daily: 6pm-1am (Fri-Sat till 2am) www.touchehombre.com

ROOFTOP / SKY BARS Above Eleven

A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack. 33F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel 38/8, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 207 9300 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.aboveeleven.com bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE

amBar

Located on the 8th floor rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, this pool bar offers an inviting and relaxed lounge atmosphere. Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi15, Tel: 02 309 3288 Open daily: 4pm-midnight www.ambarbangkok.com

26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Sky On 20

Attitude

This sky-high drinking and dining spot boasts an inventive cocktail menu, delicious tapas-sized nibbles, and Instagram-worthy desserts, but the view overlooking the river is what really commands the attention here. 26F, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 431 9100 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am minorhotels.com/en/avani/riverside-bangkok

Char

Located on the 26th floor of the Hotel Indigo, visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious.

56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am (Happy hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Cloud 47

A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in Bangkok’s bustling business district, that turns into a purple and blue neon fantasy at night. United Center, Silom Rd. Tel: 091 889 9600, Open daily: 11am-1am www.cloud47bangkok.com

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars, perched dramatically above the heart of the city, offers light bites and drinks such as the signature Imperial Mojito and Martini-infused cocktails.

At this new, and very stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok

The Speakeasy

One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts, wines at solid prices, and cocktails (some crafted from homemade vodka infusions). 24/25F, Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.hotelmusebangkok.com

NIGHTLIFE | listings

ThreeSixty Lounge

Go sky high in style above the Chao Phraya River at Millennium Hilton Bangkok’s grand rooftop venue. With 360° panorama vistas of the city, this lounge spot truly stands out from other sky bars in the city. 31-32F, Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.bangkok.hilton.com

Walk

Cé La Vi Bangkok (formerly Ku De Ta Bangkok) is one of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com

Mixx Discotheque

Named to reflect high-fashion ambitions, it’s sleek enough to resemble a runway. Sofas line the perimeter, attracting a young, chatty crowd. 21F, Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok 567 Rachaprarop Rd. Tel: 02 625 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.centarahotelsresorts.com/centara/cwb

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair, one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

Zest Bar and Terrace

Narz

Zoom Sky Bar & Restaurant

Sing Sing Theater

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails, and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

Meet, sip, and dine overlooking the city at this well-designed venue, offering innovative culinary experiences and 360° cityscape views. 40F, Anantara Sathorn Hotel Bangkok 36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Tel: 02 210 9000 Open daily: 6pm-1am bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com

CLUBS Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com 108 | F EBRUA RY 2017

Cé La Vi

Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night. 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Open daily: 8pm-3am www.narzclubbangkok.net

Not entirely a club, nor exactly a bar in the truest sense, Sing Sing Theater transcends the limitations of our nightlife vocabulary. Sukhumvit 45 Tel: 097 285 6888 Open: Tue-Sun, 8pm-2am www.facebook.com/singsingtheater

PUBS The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton, 4, Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE

The Pickled Liver

Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and more make this landmark pub—now in its second incarnation—a perennial favourite with locals. Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 (opposite Maxim’s Hotel) Tel: 02 651 1114 Open daily: 3pm-late www.thepickledliver.com

The Royal Oak

An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions, draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes. There’s even a comedy club upstairs which is open every Friday. 595/10, Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 Tel: 02 662 1652 Open daily: 10am-1am www.royaloakthailand.com

13 Samsen Rd. (opposite Soi 2) Open daily: 6pm-midnight Tel: 089 769 4613 www.facebook.com/adhere13thbluesbar

Brown Sugar

Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

The Sportsman

Whether you want to shoot some pool, throw darts, or just sit back and watch your favourite team on TV, it’s all here at one of the best sports bars in Bangkok. GF, Trendy Condo, Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 168 7241 Open daily: 8am-2am www.sportsbarbangkok.com

LIVE MUSIC Adhere the 13th Blues Bar One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals.

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Parking Toys

A spacious garage-style venue, filled to the brim with random antiques, known for stellar live rock, ska, and rockabilly that runs into the early morning. A little bit far from downtown, but definitely worth the trip to get there. 164, Soi Sun Wichai 14 Tel: 02 318 1415, Open daily: 4pm-2am www.parkingtoys.in.th

Queen Bee

A great place to hang out and meet up with friends while enjoying great live music. Come play some pool and check out Bangkok’s best rock’n’roll and blues cover bands. 25/9, Sukumvit Soi 26 Tel: 092 446 4234 Open: 10:30am-2am www.facebook.com/QueenBeeBangkok

Saxophone

Maggie Choo's

Maggie Choo’s

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. GF, Hotel Novotel Fenix 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/maggiechoos

A must-visit live music joint, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every single night of the week. 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 246 5472 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.saxophonepub.com

SoulBar

Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok

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LIFESTYLE |

Living room of the Ayutthaya Suite at the 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok 110 | F EBRUA RY 2017

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| LIFESTYLE

LIFE+STYLE chiang mai charm in bangkok New on the city’s accommodation scene—starting mid-month with a soft opening—is the 137 PILLARS SUITES & RESIDENCES BANGKOK, a luxury boutique hotel that sits atop 22 floors of private residences on Sukhumvit Soi 39. The hotel’s design is inspired in part by the original 137 PILLARS HOUSE CHIANG MAI, and the 34 luxurious suites are all exquisitely appointed, with private dining tables, butler service, mood lighting, high ceilings, 400 thread count bed linen, beautiful en-suite bathrooms, and stunning city views. Other hotel highlights include three F&B outlets, two outdoor swimming pools (one of which will be the highest infinity edged hotel pool in Bangkok), the NITRA SPA & WELLNESS centre, a fitness room, and even a state-of-the-art indoor golf simulator and outdoor putting practice range. www.137pillarshotels.com/hotels/bangkok

luscious living The international cosmetics brand LUSH, who offer a full range of 100 percent vegetarian, non-animal-tested bathroom goodies, finally opened a branch in Bangkok this past December—located on the ground floor at SIAM CENTER (Rama 1 Rd). Best known for their somewhat overly fragrant stores that sell a rainbow array of colourful bath bombs, shower jellies, face masks, and soaps, the brand is also held in high regard for its many charitable acts, with some of its biggest campaigns regarding issues like LGBT rights, environmental conservation, animal welfare, and human rights. www.facebook.com/lushthailand

wonderful workouts Fitness fanatics take note: LIFESTYLES ON 26, the fitness centre on the 26th floor of the Centara Grand and Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld, now offers two of the city’s most popular exercises. Classes for ZUMBA, a high-energy, Latin-based dance fitness class that is fun and energetic, but is also guaranteed to make you sweat, are offered Mondays from 6:30pm to 7:30pm, and Thursdays from 8pm to 9pm. Classes in YOGA FLY, a blend of yoga, Pilates, dance, and gymnastics—that won’t stress your joints—are offered Tuesdays from 7am to 8am. For information, call 02 100 6299.

bespoke bus service Travellers heading to CHIANG RAI who choose not to fly or take the train can now opt for a luxury bus service that rivals first-class seating on most airlines. Introduced by private bus company SOMBAT TOUR, the newly launched VIENGPING BUS—which currently operates only between Bangkok and Chiang Rai—is a 20-seat coach that boasts velvet seats (with electronic adjustment), each of which offers a personal LCD screen and USB port to charge your devices. And as there are only two rows of seats, separated by one aisle, you won’t be bothered by a snoring seatmate. A mid-route buffet meal is included, and the entire VIP ride is just B890 one way. www.sombattour.com bangkok101.com

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LIFESTYLE | spa deals

Ultimate Romantic Couples Indulgence at Anantara Spa Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort | 257/1-3 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 476 0022 | www.anantara.com

Celebrate February, the most romantic month of the year, with two-and-a-half-hour spa package for couples. The treatment starts with an Aromatic Flora Bath then follows with an Elemis Sensitive Skin Soother Facial—a great combination designed to reduce daily stress and restore your skin. The highlight of the package is the luxurious ‘Dining by Design’ that offers the ultimate in private and romantic dining, featuring a menu comprising a Royal River Thai medley of the finest regional specialties. The promotion runs throughout February and is priced at B16,000++ per couple.

Blind Therapists Provide Their Skills at Spa Cenvaree Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok | 1695 Phahonyothin Rd. Tel: 02 541 1234 | www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Two blind massage therapists are providing their unique services at Spa Cenvaree throughout this month, with three special packages available to try. Choose from: a Royal Thai Massage, priced at B1,600++ per person for 60 minutes and B1,900++ for 90 minutes; a 60-minute Traditional Foot Massage priced at B1,300++; or an Aromatherapy Massage priced at B1,900++ for 60 minutes and B2,300++ for 90 minutes. The spa’s usual staff of expert therapists is also available during this period to provide service on these and all other packages and treatments as well.

New Year, New You at Tammachart Spa

Novotel Bangkok at Siam Square | 392/44, Siam Square Soi 6, Rama I Rd. The: 02 209 8888 | www.novotel.com It’s time to pamper yourself! Give your body the detox that it needs—relief from the harsh mall lighting and the heavily-trafficked streets of Bangkok—at the Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square. Throughout February, try their new Anti-Pollution Body Scrub which will revitalize and remove all the impurities from your skin. The 60-minute exclusive massage combines technique with “Phytomer”. This expert product from France is designed specifically to protect your body from chemicals, and gives you smoother, softer, and brighter looking skin. The promotion is priced at B2,500 for 60 minutes.

Pampering Touch at The Sanctuary Wellness & Spa Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok | 19, Sukhumvit Soi 18 Tel: 02 261 7100 | www.rembrandtbkk.com

Take time this month to revitalize yourself with an hour-long full body massage and rejuvenate your skin with a half-hour facial treatment at The Sanctuary Wellness & Spa, located on the 4th floor of the Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok. The treatment includes a 60-minute Swedish massage and 30-minute special facial revival, priced at B1,450 for 90 minutes. The spa is open daily from 11am till 9pm and the last booking is taken at 7pm. Additional wellbeing facilities at the hotel are available as well, including steam room, sauna, couple rooms, fitness center, and swimming pool.

A Sweet Treat at Chi, The Spa

Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok | 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Rd. Tel: 02 236 7777 | www.shangri-la.com Experience relaxation and romance with the ‘Sense of Romance’ spa package Chi, The Spa at the Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok. created for the month of love, the package allows you and your love to share a precious time together with full-body exfoliation in the private setting of CHI’s treatment suite, followed by a candle massage. Meanwhile the intense chocolate aroma aids to fully soothe body and soul—for a luxurious 120 minutes. The promotion is available until the end of February and is priced at B8,000 net per couple and B4,500 net per individual.

Valentine’s Package for Lovers at Spa Athénée Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel | 61 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 650 8800 | www.plazaatheneebangkok.com

Spa Athénée at the Plaza Athénée Bangkok prepares your senses for St. Valentine’s Day with an emotionally liberating 120-minute treatment, available throughout this month. Starting with the proper pampering of the Immunetra Signature Massage (90 minutes) in which blood and lymph flow is promoted throughout the body, and aching muscles and joints are healed and revitalized. The treatment concludes with the Immunetra Blood Type Body Scrub (30 minutes), a treatment that restores suppleness to the skin. The promotion is priced at B3,600 with special Valentine’s themed giveaways. You’ll LOVE it!

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spa review | LIFESTYLE

Devarana Spa

very once in a while, it’s important to stop, take stock, and allow your body to rest. Perhaps you have spent the last few weeks immersed in work, traveling from one place to the next, or simply overindulging in extracurricular activities. Last month, I gave myself that chance to recuperate after a hectic month, one that left me tired and somewhat disillusioned. It began with a visit to the Devarana Spa, located in the Dusit Thani Bangkok Hotel. Situated near the intersection of Sala Daeng BTS and Silom MRT stations, this luxury property has been home to this blissful spa for almost two decades, providing guests and locals with an idyllic spot to rehabilitate body and mind. And, at the turn of the new year, Devarana launched a series of special treatments focusing on the special healing properties of flowers. Lasting two hours, the Divine Floral Remedy package (B3,600++) features a thirty minute Glittering Lotus Body Scrub and a 90 minute oil massage with gold leaves. The former is rich with antioxidants, using skin nourishing extracts from pure gold and lotus petals, whilst also offering protection against UV damage. Meanwhile, bangkok101.com

the luxuriant oil massage has been designed to promote total wellbeing, leaving visitors utterly blissed out. I can attest to these bold claims, having spent a glorious morning in this upscale facility. Greeted by the team of welcoming therapists, I’m told that “devarana” literally translates to “garden in heaven” in Thai. Indeed, walking up the grand staircase to the reception’s golden door, it certainly feels as though I’m entering somewhere other-worldly. The decor and airy layout—though tasteful and serene—makes a bold statement, but the result is truly divine. And after two hours of attentive pampering, I start to wonder if I really have died and gone to heaven. The treatment begins with fragrant scrub, rubbed liberally from shoulders to toes in round, firm strokes. With the brush of her hand, my masseuse washes away the tiredness that clings to my skin following a hectic few weeks, effectively exfoliating and revitalizing my pores. I’m sent to the shower to rinse the glittering scrub away, and discover that my shimmering skin is noticeably smoother. In the pre-treatment consultation I selected my favourite massage oil

and discussed problem areas and pressure preferences with my therapist, resulting in 90 minutes of personalized perfection. But she makes sure to check in on me throughout too, asking if I’m comfortable and whether the temperature in the room is okay for me (it is, thanks to the delightful heated massage table I’m sprawled across). Each knead into my body is carefully considered, as the knots in my upper back melt away and my mind switches off. The lavender and chamomile oil melts into my skin, tingling the surface and giving it some much needed attention. I’m eased up and out of my relaxed stance with a shoulder massage, before being led to a calming waiting area for hot tea and dried fruit. In one short morning, I had been brought back to life, ready to take on the new year with a revived body and a relaxed mind. by Annaliese Watkins

Devarana Spa

Dusit Thani Bangkok Hotel 946 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 636 3596 Open daily: 9am-10pm www.devaranaspa.com F EBRUA RY 2017 | 113

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

Many of the recipes were created by internationally renowned French pastry chef Eric Perez—ranked 2nd in the World Pastry Cup—who’s also supported the factory in the role of consultant and chocolate trainer. The Khao Yai shop also organizes weekend workshops, where true chocolate lovers can gain a hands-on experience—learning about the history of chocolate, tasting the different chocolate percentages, and of course, making their own chocolates. Depending on the activities of the class—some even offer piping and decoration practices—the price varies between B380 and B450. Held in Thai, with an English video presentation, the classes usually take around 40 minutes, and can accommodate a maximum of 70 people. Register by calling 092 443 888 (or look up ‘The Chocolate Factory Thailand’ on Facebook) and you may be soon impressing your friends with your creative chocolate skills. For more about Khao Yai, see our full travel feature starting on page 46.

Photo by Bruce Scott

id you know that Khao Yai has its own chocolate factory? Located just a bit north of the Khao Yai National Park main entrance, The Chocolate Factory (352, Moo 2, Thanarat Rd), is both a restaurant—serving Italian and Thai fare—and a chocolate shop and café, offering a large selection of homemade chocolates, desserts, and many other gift items to take away. Open since 2013—with a second branch in Pattaya, as of last year—the shop also features a glass-walled production room where visitors are welcome to observe the chocolatiers at work all day. By using high-quality ingredients imported from Belgium, France, and Switzerland, the chocolate factory produces all kinds of the delicious creations, ranging from bonbons and pralines—with over 40 different flavours—to cookies, chocolate covered nuts, and even skincare products, such as lotion and body scrub made from cocoa butter.

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