The heart of the capital. The height of luxury.
( 2 minute walk )
PUBLISHER’S LETTER Youth never really leaves us, and so youth is what we celebrate. In this issue, we harken back to earlier times, giving you the brass tacks on the best activities for your little loved ones in Bangkok. It is, after all, a kid’s world. From cooking classes for aspiring chefs to a sprawling fun zone, there’s no shortage of options when it comes to excursions on the town; our writer dishes out the city’s most exciting programmes for children and their parents. In fashion, the hottest trends for toddlers steal the spotlight. Teens aren’t left in the dark, though. A story on skateboarding explores the local buzz building around the sport. We also give you the run-down on food, nightlife, and travel. Classic Italian stars at Enoteca, Italics, and Don Giovanni. Check out these reviews and more in Food & Drink. A bold, new bar is revolutionizing social life in a rising Sathorn soi, which you can read about in Nightlife. On the travel front, Luc Citrinot and Joe Cummings explore the region’s rich heritage, while our monthly photo essay hones in on the once-in-a-lifetime, beach resort by private plane experience at the family-friendly and utterly bespoke Soneva Kiri. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.
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WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
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CONTRIBUTORS
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Craig Sauers
associate editor
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Joe Cummings Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
An American by birth, MICHAEL MOORE has spent over half of his life living overseas; first as an international school teacher and administrator and then as a freelance writer and editor. He has contributed to a variety of news and lifestyle publications, including Travel & Leisure, the Philadelphia Inquirer, and numerous inflight magazines. Although he covers a variety of topics, he particularly loves writing about food and wine.
editorial coordinator
Pongphop Songsiriarcha art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Nan Tohchoodee, Adam O’Keefe, Jim Algie, Marco Ferrarese, Laurence Civil, Nicola Jones-Crossley, Matt Wilde contributing photographers
Willem Deenik, Greg Powell, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director sales and marketing
A Brit with three decades of Bangkok living, KEITH MUNDY has been a freelance travel writer and photographer for 26 years. Trained in languages and literature (English, French, Spanish), he has been a traveller since the age of 14, visited 96 countries so far and been kicked out of a couple. His work has appeared in travel and lifestyle magazines worldwide, including the inflight magazines of several major airlines, and he is the author of guidebooks to Thailand and Mexico, plus Thai corporate and cultural histories.
AVAILABLE AT:
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Paris native LUC CITRINOT has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon account executive
Orawan Ratanapratum circulation
Phichet Reangchit interns
Clara Schmitt, Qisheng Wang, Kanyawee Petchana published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
SEP T EM BER 2014 | 7
CONTENTS 44
22 50
18
CITY PULSE
50 over the border:
96 review: revolucion
10 metro beat
bandung
cocktail
14 my bangkok:
98 nightlife listings
judy benn
ART & CULTURE
16 hot plates:
56 exhibition highlights
kom-ba-wa
58 interview: jeremyville
18 best of bkk: fun for
60 cheat notes
the whole family
62 photo feature:
22 out & about: kick,
soneva kiri
104
push, coast 28 making merit:
FOOD & DRINK
father ray foundation
70 food & drink news 72 meal deals
SNAPSHOTS
73 restaurant reviews:
30 tom’s two satang
shuffle, the gardens,
SHOPPING
32 joe’s bangkok
ginger, italics, don
104 new collection:
58
34 bizarre thailand
giovanni, enoteca
paula and baby
73
36 very thai
82 in the kitchen: carlos
106 unique boutique:
38 heritage: wang
83 eat like nym
tint
parutsakawan
84 imbibe: s. pellegrino masterclass
TRAVEL
86 listings
42 upcountry now
WELLNESS 108 i.sawan spa 109 my bebe spa
44 upcountry escape:
NIGHTLIFE
khmer in isan
94 nightlife news
REFERENCE 110 sightseeing listings 113 map
ON THE COVER Getting his kicks: a young Thai skater performs a kickflip in a park under the Rama XIII Bridge. Photo taken by Greg Powell. See more at gregmpowell.com and gregpowell.tumblr.com. 8 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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ROCK & POP
PERFORMANCE
Cirque du Soleil Quidam Nothing is certain in life, except for death, taxes, and Cirque du Soleil. Finally, after being left in the cold for decades, Bangkok will welcome the high-flying spectacle to its sprawling quarters. Cirque du Soleil Quidam takes place from July 29-August 3 at Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd). The show tells the story of Zoey, whose imagination frees her from her family’s mundane routines. Expect jaw-dropping acrobatics, light shows, and special effects. Tickets are available at all Thai Ticket Major outlets and range in price from B1000 to B5000. Visit thaiticketmajor.com for more information, including show times.
Fwends Jatujak’s hottest rock venue, Live House Studio (JJ Green, Kamphaeng Phet 2), cranks the heat on July 4 (which, for the record, is a very busy day in Bangkok). POW! Fest delivers non-stop Thai and Japanese rock, from 3.30pm until late. Go wild to Thai bands SLUR, Gym and Swim, Summer Dress, aire, Seal Pillow, Wave And So, Hariguem Zaboy, Fwends, and Safeplanet. Japanese group The fin. will also take stage. Tickets are B700 at the door. For more information, contact the organizers, Seen Scene Space, at facebook.com/seenscenespace. On July 11, head to Mongkol RCA Studio (RCA, Rama IX Rd) for a show celebrating the launch of post-rock band Inspirative’s latest album, Mysteriously Awake. Headliners Free Typewriter and Monomania take the stage before Inspirative unveils expansive tracks from its fifth release. Tickets are B500. The first 300 get a CD, but act fast — tickets are limited. For more information, email blackmeadows.music@gmail.com or check facebook. com/inspirative.
MARKETS The Platters On July 11 and 12, the Brooklyn-esque flea market Made by Legacy returns, this time at Central Embassy on the previously unused level six. Across more than 150 stalls, the market offers deep vintage finds, including clothing, art, accessories, and home décor. Fill up with great food while you take in live bands and DJs. Take in the raw, rustic feel of this warehouse-sized space before it turns into another piece of the shopping mall puzzle. Tickets are priced at B120. For more information, check madebylegacy.com. 1 0 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
The Platters return to Bangkok on July 26, bringing with them their favourite songs, “Only you,” “The Great Pretender,” “Magic Touch,” and “Smoke Gets in Your Eyes.” Though the lineup has changed since the group formed in the 1950s, the heart and soul of this classic rock and roll group remains intact. A few Thai guest singers will join them at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Main Hall, Huai Khwang). Tickets range from B800 to B2500 and are available at thaiticketmajor.com. bangkok101.com
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ELECTRONIC
Red Bull Thre3style Think you’ve got what it takes to be the world’s next top DJ? Prove it at Red Bull Thre3style, the competition that lets you display your creativity, technical skill, and overall stage prowess. Held at Route 66 (RCA, Rama IX Rd) on July 4, starting at 8pm, the show brings competitors onstage for 15-minute sets that incorporate three different styles of music (hip-hop, house, electric, country — whatever they prefer), producing dynamic and energetic sounds. The winner moves on to the world championships in Tokyo to compete against the best of best from twenty different countries. For more information, visit redbullthre3style.com. A brand-new festival takes over the city centre on July 22. Dubbed Soundbox, the party is brought to Muang Thai GMM Live House at CentralWorld by BEC-TERO, an organizer with no shortage of huge events under its belt. On the docket are rising American electro-pop-rockers Twenty One Pilots, Japanese finger-slapping guitarist Miyavi, and local electronica hero DJ Ono. This is one of the most interesting lineups to team up in Thailand this year. It should be a high-energy party. Tickets are priced at B1500 and the show starts at 8.30pm.
SPORTS The second leg of the Thailand Tri-League Series brings the Bangkok Triathlon to Rattanakosin, Thonburi, and beyond on July 4. The standard-distance triathlon, part of three-race series, is comprised of a 1.5 kilometre swim, a 43 kilometre bike ride, and a 10.8 kilometre run. Those competing for points in the series can then move on the master series in Phuket later this year. The race will set up beneath the Rama XIII Bridge, and the guns will go off at 6.30am sharp, so arrive early. Teams are welcome to participate, as well. Visit gotorace.com for more information. bangkok101.com
The Back to School Fun Run on July 5 gives you a reason to pull your school uni out of retirement. Organized by Education Thailand, the run features a 2.5k walk (B300) and 5k and 10k runs (B400). Proceeds support the “School in a Bag” project, which provides essential school supplies (pencils, paper, calculators, sports equipment, and more) to children who have no access to them. Runners wearing school uniforms, known as “fancy dress” in this case, are eligible to win prizes for best dressed. The race starts at 6am in Lumpini Park. For more information, call 08 4642 9595 or visit educationthailand.org. J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 1 1
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CLASSICAL
WORKSHOPS
Sala Sudasiri Sobha (158/20 Ladprao 41) stages a classical piano recital by Japanese artist Mami Shikimori and local virtuoso Ning Pookhaothong. The performance starts at 7.30pm on July 18 with Pookhaothong moving in mood — from elegy to sonata to adagio to fantasie — performing compositions from Busoni, Beethoven, Scriabin, and Nan Yontarak. Shikimori caps the evening with “24 Preludes, op 28” by Chopin. Tickets cost B700, which includes pre- and post-event receptions. Proceeds go to the Gift of Life Foundation. For more information, visit salasudasirisobha.com.
Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School
Raphael Wallfisch British cellist Raphael Wallfisch visits the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra (Main Hall, Thailand Cultural Centre, Huai Khwang) on July 21, playing works composed by the legendary Edward Elgar. Conducted by Martin Yates, the principal conductor of the Symphony Orchestra of the Cambridge University Music Society, the performance runs through Elgar’s military marches, as well as a concerto and a symphony. The show starts at 8pm. Visit bangkoksymphony.org for more information.
This July, join a number of workshops at Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School’s (Dusit Thani Bangkok, BTS Sala Daeng). Go with dessert first. On July 6 and 7, the Everything Macarons workshop (B9000) covers the inner and outer workings of the French pastry, from making macaron shells to creating fillings. After getting your macaron fill, turn your attention to foie gras. The one-day workshop, Uncover the Secret of Foie Gras on July 7 (B8000), dishes up secrets on preparing the perfect delicacy. Complete the lessons with a Cooking a Perfect Steak Workshop on July 8. Instructors will teach you to judge the nuance of different cuts of meat, including how to prepare them according to tastes, for B8500 per person. All workshops are conducted in English with Thai translation. For more information, visit lecordonbleudusit.com.
FOURTH OF JULY The debate rages: who has the best chili in Thailand? You? Your neighbour? The American expat down the street? Find out at AMCHAM’s Big Chili Cook-off, part of the chamber’s annual Independence Day picnic, held on July 4 at KIS International School. Proceeds from the event help raise money for the AMCHAM Thailand Charitable Foundation. If that’s not reason enough to celebrate America’s most popular holiday, the chili should seal the deal. The cook-off is open to anyone who believes they make the best bowl of chili in Bangkok. The people’s choice award goes to the good stuff that receives the most votes from the public. The price to enter the cook-off is B500. For more information, email dana@ roadhousebarbecue.com or call 08 1837 6855. 1 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
Jeedwonder Tap your inner creative skills with two workshops on July 25 at Central Chidlom. Make your own little garden in a jar at the Terrarium Workshop. From 1pm-3pm, you’ll find out where to shop for accessories and how to take care of your budding greens. Shortly afterward, from 3.30pm6pm, change medium and check out Jeedwonder’s Coffee Painting Workshop. Here, you’ll learn how to paint with colour from coffee, discovering along the way that being a barista is not the only way to get creative with your caffeine fix. bangkok101.com
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my bangkok
Judy BENN
Judy Benn has held the reins as Executive Director of AMCHAM for 15 years, and she’s been in Asia nearly twice as long. The ambassador of American business interests in Thailand leads a nonstop life, but she managed to find a few minutes to talk with Bangkok 101 about her work and life.
How did you get to your position? I came to Asia to work in the private sector. I was with KPMG [one of the Big Four auditing firms] for about 15 years. I’d been active in AMCHAM in Taiwan and Shanghai when I lived there, and I enjoyed what the organization was. After I left KPMG, I came to Thailand and took some time off work, but I saw this little ad in the paper for the job, and here I am fifteen years later. You know, it was funny — I always thought executive director at AMCHAM would be my ideal job. My predecessor held this role for 19 years, and his predecessor was here for 12. This job doesn’t open up very often. It was destiny. What does a usual day look like? In the morning, I’m visiting businesspersons who want to talk about the economy or business environment. Then, I meet with our board of governors, counselling them, helping them find speakers, or crafting the message of the month. Or I’m with our staff, organizing events, making sure we’re within budget, fair, and transparent. Later, I’ll meet with our communications people. It’s a lot of coordination. At night, I represent the Chamber at events around town. What are some of the challenges you face as Executive Director? Political instability is always hard. Our goal is to attract investment and assist companies that are doing business in Thailand. For some big, multi-national organizations, the politics can be 1 4 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
unnerving. Thailand is very resilient, though. It always bounces back. There are lots of good reasons to invest. How do you show that Thailand is a good place to do business? Some companies like to set up because of the cost of labour and the high quality you get for the investment. Others like the demographics. There’s a growing middle class with disposable income. To spread the word, we send out information online and in print with our magazine, T-AB. We generate interest through events, like our USA Fair and the Independence Day Picnic, and we do networking nights all the time. I’m often a guest speaker at other events. Are you working on any big projects at the moment? In 2013, we were asked by the US Chamber to set up an AMCHAM in Myanmar. Within two months, we had 50 companies signed up as members. We hit 100 last September. It was very exciting, but tricky, because of the sanctions and compliance issues. A lot of people are on the SDN [Special Designated National] list, which means you can’t do business with them. Lots of banks were on it. Sometimes an SDN will run funds through their family, so we had to do a lot of due diligence. What services does AMCHAM provide that the public might not know about? We’re about 80 percent business and 20 percent charity. A major part of
our CSR goal is to improve the quality of education, because it helps our members and down the line makes for a stronger local economy. We help fund Fulbright scholars, who are like mini-ambassadors upcountry, helping to build infrastructure in rural schools. We provide scholarships to disadvantaged youth so that they can finish their studies. And our Adopta-School programme funds needy schools in Thailand. With a packed schedule, how do you balance work and life? My number-one secret is that I live down the street. I can be at the office in ten minutes. I have a 15-year-old daughter. I always have breakfast with her. It’s my golden rule. I’ll go home in the afternoon, head to the gym with her or help her with homework, and then go back out to events. What do you like to do when you have spare time? I love to run. Every Sunday you can find a 10k. I do two a month. When I first came here, I’d travel all over the country doing races — Chiang Mai, Phitsanulok, Surin. My favourite is the River Kwai half-marathon. I used to push my daughter in a stroller. I’d see the same people every weekend. Eventually, a couple of guys knew us so well they would take the stroller and run off with my daughter during the race. I saw one of them not long ago.He recognized us and was so excited to see us again. bangkok101.com
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hot plates
Kom-Ba-Wa By Joe Cummings
B
angkok-based entrepreneur Frederic Meyer, who has collaborated with Chef Ian Kittichai at Issaya Siamese Club and Namsaah Bottling Trust, and who more recently opened Pizza Massilia, a gourmet food truck based in Silom, takes a leap into progressive Japanese fare at his latest culinary venture. Opened last May, Kom-Ba-Wa, which means “good evening” in Japanese, occupies a single-kuha shophouse on hip Suan Phlu, off Sathorn Road. The highceiling dining room is adorned with flamboyant red and gold wallpaper, Japanese prints, early 20th-century postcards, polished hardwoods, and both Japanese and French antiques, including kiri cabinets from Nagoya and brass empire chandeliers from France. The ambience is relaxed yet elegant. A similarly decorated dining room upstairs is reserved for private dining. “Our food is a modern interpretation of traditional Japanese cuisine, using regional recipes with the finest ingredients, while adding our own touch,” says presiding chef Goro Takatsu. According to Meyer, it’s simply the kind of food he wants to eat. Takatu’s signature dishes start with “Rosebeef” (B290), an inspired take on the traditional Japanese beef tataki in which a lengthy slice of 240-day-old Black Angus is arranged in the shape of a rose blossom and served with a citrus-ponzu dressing. From there, it branches out into a thick filet of perfectly grilled King Salmon with Edamame Purée and Yuzu Butter Sauce (B690), said to be one of the most popular dishes at the restaurant. Fish and shellfish, which make up a significant portion of the Kom-Ba-Wa menu, are imported direct from Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. For diners interested in sushi and sashimi, the best bet is to order the chef’s choice platters (B490 for 3/B790 for 5). From the appetizers portion of the menu, the Black Cod Miso Gyoza with Chili Soy Sauce (B410) is so good you might be tempted to order a second platter to take home. Marinated Eggplant with Crab Meat and Foie Gras Miso Sauce (B380) is another knockout appetizer. Japanese Sakura Shrimp Cakes (B390), a stunning warm-up inspired by a traditional Okinawan recipe, feature fresh sakura shrimp dressed with citrus and homemade bonito flakes, two elements that battle one another for attention on the palate. Back to the mains, a fragrant, steaming bowl of Black Angus Beef Cheek Stew with Golden Beetroot and Edamame (B780), flavoured with red and white miso, seems at first glance like the ultimate Japanese comfort food. And it lives up to the loftiest expectations. Hungry stomachs will enjoy hearty portions of Kurobuta Pork Glazed with Nagano Peach Sake (B750) or 60-Day-Aged Tajima Wagyu Beef Steak Served with Ponzu Jelly (B1750). For dessert, the Sake Blanc Manger Served with Salty Plum Sorbet (B220) stands out, but there are three other choices for those in search of variety. A well-stocked bar flanks one wall of the dining room, offering an ample selection of red, white, and sparkling wines from around the world, both by the bottle and by the glass. Eleven Japanese sakes are available by the bottle, and two by the glass. For the hard stuff, choose among five brands of Japanese whiskey or signature house cocktails, such as Tokyo Bliss (Yuza shuwa and white wine), Kyoto Shiroku (shiroku,vodka and soda), and Osaka Sparkling (Yoshino and Zadetto). Inimitable and oh-so-cool, Kom-Ba-Wa is another successful notch in Meyer’s culinary belt.
KOM-BA-WA 39/19 Soi Suan Phlu, Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 3775 kombawa.com | daily 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-1am
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Pastry chefs in the making, under the hands-on instruction of Le Cordon Bleu’s professionals 1 8 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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FUN FOR the Whole Family You Don’t Always Have to Visit Legoland to Separate Your Kids from the iPad Screen BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
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owadays, a little thing called “Google” allows kids to e-explore the world without leaving the comfort of the couch. Want to see the Great Barrier Reef from above or check out the jewelled giant in Wat Phra Kaew? It’s easy to go online for all the answers. But what’s convenient isn’t always best, especially as kids undergo cognitive and physical development and need proper stimulation to strengthen life skills. Youth is a time for active exploration. Even as children get older, entering their tweens and teens — the two leading causes of gray hair and high blood pressure in adults — they need to get hands-on with education,
“A Little Something” Going underwater for your little at loved Lets Asia ones bangkok101.com
both mental and physical. The Big Mango offers plenty of opportunities to do just that. There are tons of exciting activities for your children, and the whole family, to try in the city. They might even change the way you look at zoos, museums, and play areas at the mall. Cooking Schools Scared of giving your child a cleaver? You have nothing to worry about at A Little Something. The owners import designed-for-kids kitchenware and utensils, branded “Suncraft,” from Japan to ensure safety and fun in class.
So you think you can dance? J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 1 9
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Young firefighters hard at work at KidZania The courses are open for three-years-old and up. They teach kids not only how to cook, but also how to prep food, set tables, and, most importantly, behave when eating. Parents can join a cooking class for adults or even participate in the same class with their kids. The world-class Le Cordon Bleu trains iron chefsto-be with hands-on cooking activities. The Young Chefs Cooking Programme runs six days in total. In it, kids (aged 12 to 15) learn basic cooking and baking techniques as well as a food presentation and styling techniques. It goes without saying that kids love sweets. Imagine how cool it would be for your petite baker to mould real cupcakes from flour instead of Plasticine. Workshops for children and teens at L’école Bangkok Cooking School serve up fun-filled lessons on topics as varied as pastries and Thai cuisine. In the pastries class, they’ll learn to make brownie lollipops, pop cakes, lemon tarts — you name it. Performance and Art Classes Not a baker? Not a problem. Sharpen and encourage your kids’ aesthetic skills through art and music classes that match their talents and interests. Many art venues offer kids’ classes and workshops, such as La Lanta Fine Art, Studio Miu, and Attic Studios. There are as many dancing schools for kids as there are art classes, running the gamut from contemporary dance to jazz and ballet. At Dance in Bangkok, instructors help nurture young Pavlovas and Baryshnikovs. But this school has a few 2 0 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
tricks up its sleeve. It’s also famous for its contemporary dance and jazz classes. The Little Gym, on the other hand, focusses on physical development in children aged 3 to 12. Age-proper gymnastic and karate classes allow kids to increase flexibility and strength. Can’t decide the best leisure activities for your little loved ones — dance or gymnastics? How about a place where play, music, and art unite? Gymboree offers tailored activities that help children develop the cognitive, physical, and social skills as they play. This is an especially good place for school preparation for kids aged under fiveyears-old. The first one-stop service for “edutainment,” Juno Park, combines a learning centre, day care, playground, and museum with arts and craft, cooking, science, language, and culture classes under one roof, developing emotions and motor skills in one fell swoop. Recreation and Outdoor Fun High-energy kids often grow tired of sitting in a classroom. Who doesn’t? That’s perfectly normal. In Bangkok, there are many distinct ways for your children to show off their potential and aptitude, and not all of them require a desk and uniform. Grab the helmet and hit the road at Easy Kart, the biggest indoor go kart circuit in Bangkok. Children and adults aged eight and up can grab the wheel like a race car driver — which is much healthier than gripping the bangkok101.com
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“A Little Something” for your little loved ones
A little Olympian at Gymboree iPad all day — in a safe environment, under the watchful eye of professionals. Apart from driving, swimming is another survival skill that requires practice, practice, practice (yes, driving is a survival skill here). At Lets Asia, the largest international swimming school in Thailand, kids and parents can sign up for a variety of swimming lessons, including maternity swimming classes, swimming galas, aqua-aerobics, and aquathlon, which, for the uninitiated, is like a triathlon, but consisting of swim-run-swim rather than swim-bike-run. If go karts and aqua sports aren’t your thing, check out the latest live game capturing the city’s attention. The Escape Hunt, guaranteed by more branches around the world than any other company, offers a unique form of adventure best experienced with family and friends. Here, you play the part of a famous London detective trapped in a room where a crime was committed. You have to solve the mystery in order to get out of the room. Sound easy? It isn’t. This interactive puzzle game helps strengthen teambuilding ability in kids as well as adults. At Kidzania, role playing takes a larger part of the picture. Here, your kids can be whatever they want to be. In this mini city, kids choose an occupation, performing their jobs and earning kidZos, KidZania’s currency. There are more than 60 roles to choose from, each taking about 25 minutes to complete. Your child could be a news reporter in the morning, a baker before lunch, and a pilot in the afternoon. Role playing helps develop essential life skills, from money management to social skills and decision-making. bangkok101.com
The scene of the crime at The Escape Hunt There’s nothing wrong with spending time with family at home. It’s convenient, comfortable, and mostly costfree. But it’s more exciting to explore the world with the ones you love. So head out the door, slip on your shoes, grab your sense of adventure, and make it count.
• A Little Something a-littlesomething.com • Dance in Bangkok danceinbangkok.com • Easy Kart easykart.net • Gymboree gymboree.co.th • Juno Park junopark.biz • Kidzania bangkok.kidzania.com • Le Cordon Bleu cordonbleudusit.com • L’école Bangkok Cooking School lecolebangkok.com • Lets Asia swimmingschoolbangkok.com • The Escape Hunt escapehunt.com • The Little Gym thelittlegym.com J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 2 1
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Riding High: South African skater Siya Ntuli gets some air in a shaded park at Ramkhamhaeng. 2 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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out & about
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KICK, PUSH, COAST Under bridges, at schools, and in the city’s sois, Bangkok’s skateboarders ride together. WORD BY CRAIG SAUERS; PHOTOS BY GREG POWELL
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s Siya Ntuli warms up, trundling down the concourse on his board’s two back wheels, his arms hovering high and wide above his shoulders like The Karate Kid in the crane pose, his language slips into the vernacular. When he takes a break, he speaks of heelflips, backside one-eighties, and tail slides. He mentions going fakie. He might as well be talking in tongues. Passion surges through his skinny body, manifesting itself in a symphony of sounds set about by ollies and grinds.
A young skater waits his turn bangkok101.com
After resting a few minutes, he picks up where he left off, swooping and swerving around a half-dozen other skaters in the afternoon shadows beneath the Rama XIII Bridge. Beer, the owner of Again, a skate shop nearby on Arun Amarin, films a teenager from close range as he attempts a variety of flat ground tricks. A boy no older than ten, swimming in his size-too-large tie-dyed t-shirt and khaki Dickies, ollies onto a low wooden box. Two twentysomething foreigners — Levi Adams, a sponsored skater from Australia, and Hedley Porter, from the UK —
Siya Ntuli, mid-trick beneath the Rama XIII Bridge J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 2 3
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out & about
The surface of Ramkhamhaeng’s all-weather Velodrome adds a different dynamic to skating in the city follow him. Before long, Levi and Siya, a South African, take turns trying to jump over a thigh-high yellow metal folding chair.
“WHILE WE WERE SKATING LATE ONE NIGHT AT NATIONAL STADIUM, A SECURITY GUARD THREW A GARBAGE CAN AT ME,” SAYS GREG... DANGER, OF COURSE, IS AN ELEMENT FAMILIAR TO ALL SKATERS, AND NOT JUST BECAUSE OF THE PHYSICAL RISKS. Where rails and ramps usually stand are highpeak frame tents bearing the insignia of Bangkok Life Assurance. The smooth, flat benches typically used for tail slides and grinds are occupied by workers taking late registration for a half marathon to be run the next day. Neither skaters nor staffers seem bothered by the other party — the obstacles have simply been put away in preparation for the race. Parked behind a staircase is a ramp, imprisoned by planter boxes and light poles. The black curve is tattooed with a white DC logo, representing the American brand. “Event organizers leave the ramps and rails after competitions,” says Greg Powell, a skater, photographer, 2 4 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
and videographer who has been filming Siya over the past four months. “That’s why the kids here are getting better. They have equipment to train on now. It’s just today we can’t use it.” Ten years ago, a scene like this — a group of skaters, gathered on a whim, doing tricks as if they were fishermen standing by the river: background noise — would have been uncommon. To a certain degree, it still is. Siya, Greg, and others have been threatened or kicked out of a handful of locations, from university grounds to public parks. “While we were skating late one night at National Stadium, a security guard threw a garbage can at me,” says Greg. Danger, of course, is an element familiar to all skaters, and not just because of the physical risks inherent in the sport. In the never-ending search for sovereignty, absolute freedom of choice, skaters often cross boundaries that perhaps shouldn’t be crossed. Still, in Thailand, the hazards have diminished as street culture and skateboarding have earned their places in society’s collective memory. Thanks to local and foreign investment in Bangkok, a scene has gradually formed around the sport. When Preduce skate shop opened in Siam Square in 2003, the capital got a true flagship shop, one that would sponsor professional and amateur athletes, film videos and screen them at parties, and work with international artists to put Thai skating on the map. Since then, the numbers of skaters has mushroomed. New and renovated skate parks have offered safe havens for aspiring athletes, bangkok101.com
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Jasper Dohrs, visiting from California, examines a rail
Beer, founder of Again, films a local trying a heelflip including Pink Park in Ekamai, the SAT in Ramkhamhaeng, and Future Park in Rangsit. Local shops like Again have entered the fold, sponsoring more and more skaters — Beer, in particular, has devoted significant energy to supporting young Thai kids. Dedication has matured, as a result. The laser-sharp focus needed to nail a trick, or to attempt the same trick over and over again, has spread like lingo amongst skaters of all ages. Major events have started a circuit of sorts, too. Every couple of months, an event will shell out significant cash prizes for best tricks, best ollies, or best group work, among other categories. On Go Skate Day (this year on June 21), skaters come out of the woodwork — the police even shut down certain roads for the well-being of the thousands who hit the streets rolling. “The shops and skaters aren’t competing against each other,” says Siya, who is sponsored by a local clothing store in Bangkok and a brand in South Africa that supplies his decks. He takes a swig of Leo, catching his breath and cooling off, his shirt now sagging from the salt sweat, and continues. “There’s no animosity. It’s not like Johannesburg, or the US or the UK, where it’s ruthless. We’re all trying to get better.” When the sun starts to fade from the vast blue dome of the sky, a silver dusk on the horizon, Siya and Greg cross the bridge in search of a trick, the ultimate goal of every session. “Before I go out, I have a vision for a trick,” says Siya. “That’s all. That one trick, I’m just focused on hitting it.” Siya eyes a concrete ledge at the top of a staircase. The ledge is lined by shrubs. The drop looks severe, 2 6 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
Razor-sharp focus merits a break in the action a gossamer gap between triumph and tragedy. Greg, however, encourages his muse to attempt it at full speed. “Should I go tail?” asks Siya. “Whatever feels better. Tail to fakie, maybe?” Greg replies, fiddling with his Canon, installing a motion stabilizer, and setting up his skateboard to function as a sort of camera dolly. Siya psyches himself up, pushes his board around a staircase, cruising to a stop with the ledge in sight. Though fifty metres away, his breathing is almost audible. He kicks the tail. The wood slaps against the ground like an otter’s tail. Behind him, the sun glows golden, the silhouette of his tall, wiry frame burned into the half-light. So much energy, wound up like a coil, taut and eager, aching to be released. There’s a pause. A tugboat motors down the Chao Phraya, leaving the sound of waves in its wake. Anticipation compresses hours into seconds, and then there’s the drive, the click click click of wheels jumping cracks in the pavement. Greg rolls forward, raising his camera to catch the acrobat at his apex. Siya’s deck kisses the ground beneath his heel. There’s a whoosh, the young man is suspended in animation, rising gracefully toward a sharp stone corner which he clears, the curved end caressing the coping, sliding, splintering at the smallest levels, his energy suddenly unfettered, his confidence laced with a sense of amazement, or perhaps pride, as he realizes he just might land upright. He doesn’t. He grabs his board before it rolls into a gutter and runs back to the start, his dedication condensed, sharpened, concentrated on this one trick, the perfect trick. bangkok101.com
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making merit
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making merit
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Homes with Heart Caring for Thailand’s Disadvantaged Youth and Carrying on Father Ray’s Mission
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ore than four decades ago, Father Ray Brennan, a Chicago-born Catholic priest, accepted into his care an unwanted baby. That one act of kindness was a spark to kindling. In the resort town of Pattaya, where children are often faced with unfortunate circumstances, Father Ray went on to open residential facilities for orphaned, abandoned, neglected, and abused children. He also opened a home for street kids — runaways from all over Thailand who came to Pattaya, hoping for a better life, but were sucked into the netherworlds of street begging, gangs, or prostitution. Father Ray believed in the potential for greatness latent in all people, and he devoted the later stages of his life to providing opportunities to less fortunate youth in society. The impact of his efforts was far-reaching and ambitious. He founded a school for deaf toddlers, as well as a school for blind and visually impaired children. Later, he started a vocational training centre for young adults living with disabilities. Father Ray passed away in 2003, but the foundation has continued to grow in his memory. Today, it takes care of 850 children and young adults, abiding by the motto, “We never turn a needy child away.” On top of projects devoted to the deaf, blind, and disabled, the Father Ray Foundation has also opened a drop-in centre for street kids, the Father Ray Day Care Center, and a children’s village nestled into the community near the Siam Country Club, where orphaned, abandoned, and homeless kids
live, learn, and play with “brothers and sisters” under the watchful eye of a “mother,” who cares for the children, day and night, and is trained in first aid. At the children’s village, workers, volunteers, and kids have formed a community as enduring as a family. Registered as Pattaya residents, all children are eligible to receive subsidized health care. Older kids who have moved on to university or vocational schools in Chonburi or Bangkok return on weekends and holidays to spend time at the village. The houses, which hold eight children and a “mother,” have kitchens, family dining areas, and living rooms with TV sets and books. Behind the houses are farms, where kids grow fruits and vegetables and learn about proper nutrition. The recently added Father Ray Center for Children with Special Needs supports local families with special needs children. Staff teach reading, writing, simple mathematics, and English, as well as life skills and personal hygiene. There are also regular swimming classes and physiotherapy, which collectively build physical strength and confidence. The Father Ray Foundation gives children a home, an element vital to leading healthy lives. There’s shelter, a place to stay that’s free from risk, and family. Not only does this give kids the childhood they may never have had, it also gives them the opportunity to reach their full potential through education. It’s a chance to grow, to achieve, and to become independent members of society.
There are many ways to get involved — cash donations support dental and medical examinations, food, education, sports equipment, everyday clothes, and more. You can also sponsor a day at the foundation, sponsor a child, and volunteer shortor long-term. Of course, all are welcome to visit the centres at any time. For more information, visit fr-ray.org or email info@fr-ray.org.
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IN THAILAND, ONE IS NEVER TOO OLD TO PLAY
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Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON FUN AND GAMES
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he sanuk mentality undeniably runs in Thai veins. From childhood to adulthood, playtime is utterly important. Some may see us as frivolous and idle because we take amusement seriously. But who doesn’t like having fun? Nowadays, thanks to technology, video and computer games have become the preferred method of recreation. It may be hard to see it now, but before the age of machines and the rise of video game addiction, Thai children played in vastly different ways. When I was young, I played all sorts of games, alone or in groups, without toys and dolls. “Rock-paper-scissors,” of course, was universal. Another game my pals and I played using our hands was called Jumm jee. We would chant the equivalent of “eeny, meeny, miny, moe” in Thai while counting each other’s fingers; when the chant finished, the unlucky one whose finger was landed on would fold it under and the chant would start again. The game went on until one was crowned the winner. Though times have changed, playtime for Thai children remains as limitless as the imagination. Creativity stems from nearby objects, no machines necessary. Banana leaves, palm fronds, or slivers of bamboo can be folded and formed into flowers, fish, birds, grasshoppers, mosquitoes, and even hats. Like the Japanese with origami, Thai kids love bending and weaving leaves, branches, and paper and turning them into toys. Paper gets folded into planes and flown around rooms. Paper boats float in puddles, ponds, and sinks until they wilt. Dolls and puppets, including their clothes and accessories, are fashioned from folded things. A classic kid’s game involves repurposing the bamboo frames of old circular baskets, called gra-dhong, rolling them around with a stick, chasing one another. We craft all kinds of kites from bamboo twigs and wafer-thin paper, decorating them with paint and sparkles for flair. During summer in Bangkok, kids flock to Sanam Luang, the field in front of the Grand Palace, to fly their homemade creations. Coconut shells, sliced in half and tied up with strings, are made into a funny kind of shoes used for hopping around and walking; sometimes, we use chopped bamboo trunks instead of coconuts. Kids not only learn to balance from them, they also treat their imagination, much like they do with brightly coloured bangkok101.com
moulding clay, with which children transform their wildest ideas into a fantasy world of shapes of sculptures. When a group of friends gather, games are often organized on a whim. A common sight is “Ree ree khao sarn,” akin to “London Bridge.” “Ngoo ghin haang” involves a lot of banter and chasing. One player representing a male snake tries to catch the last player in a line, the end of the haang, or the female snake’s tail. “Mon son paa” always results in a good laugh. It’s a lot like duck-duck-goose, but instead of touching a head to “tag” a player, we drop a handkerchief. We play “Khee mha ghaan ghluey” by turning a branch of banana leaves into a makeshift horse and hopping to the finish line. We swing a manila rope, or rope strung from rubber bands, and jump over it in “Gradode chueak” or “Gradode nhung sa-dtik.” A game of hide-and-seek is as ubiquitous as tug of war or hopscotch, called “Dtung dtey” in Thai. As we play, we joke around, rollick, sing, and laugh out loud. It beats facing a screen, just using our fingers. Some games don’t require much space, whether played indoors or outdoors. Kids toss marbles and tops for hours at a time. We try to blow rubber bands on top of one another in a game of “Bpow ghob.” Tactical games like draughts, also called checkers, and Thai chess are fun lessons on strategy that sharpen wits. In gardens and parks, kids and adults alike gather round tables decorated with checker or chess boards. We play popular board games like Snakes and Ladders or Monopoly, which are available in the Thai context. When our luck depends on the roll of the dice, winning or losing doesn’t matter much — we’re satisfied simply playing the game. As an adult, my hobbies have become my playtime. For me, enjoyment stems from external stimuli such as arts and culture and travelling. When I’m feeling nostalgic, my inner child yearns to seek out life’s simple pleasures. Through games, we reveal our true selves, skills, and traits — our strengths and weaknesses — so do our friends. We have fun as we get to know each other a little better. Playing not only provides downtime; it also lifts us up with moments of glee, letting us relish the whimsical side of life. It makes our minds wander, but also teaches us to concentrate. The true joy of recreation is perhaps most profound in the duality of playing. J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 3 1
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Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
OLD BANGKOK’S LAST STAND IN THE NANG LOENG NEIGHBOURHOOD, A LAKHON CHATRI MASTER KEEPS THE TRADITION ALIVE. BUT HOW LONG WILL IT REMAIN?
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angkok neighbourhoods that maintain a sense of history and local character have become painfully scarce in the 21st century. Nang Loeng, which occupies a large truncated grid of lanes between Nakhon Sawan Road to the northwest, Krung Kasem Road to the northeast and Phaniang Road to southwest, is one of these rare places. The community’s name is derived from loeng, a Mon word for large clay water jars that Mon immigrants from Ratchaburi province brought to sell along the banks of the Phadung Krung Kasem canal beginning in the mid-19th century. Originally nicknamed E Loeng, a derogatory epithet that Bangkok Thais applied to the migrant female 3 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
jar vendors, the district replaced “E” with “Nang,” a more polite honorific. A notice from the Royal Privy Purse Department engraved in stone and dated 1887 can still be seen in the back corner of Nang Loeng market. Admonishing market-goers to ensure receipts bear the department seal, the plaque’s message appears in Thai, Chinese, and English, testament to the neighbourhood’s cultural diversity at the time. The perimeter of the neighbourhood is lined with dignified two-story shophouses with plastered brick walls and classic 19th-century colonial embellishments. Meanwhile, the web of interior lanes is studded with more humble wooden architecture, revealing a class division bangkok101.com
highlight between Chinese merchants on the outside and Thai craftsmen and produce peddlers on the inside. A few streets away, well-endowed villas were built during the reign of King Chulalongkorn for wealthy Thai nobility. One of the more well-known nobles living in Nang Loeng was Khet Udomsak, Prince of Chumphon, who founded the Thai navy before passing way in 1923. A shrine to the prince inside Nang Loeng Market still receives daily offerings of flowers, and each year on December 19 the local community celebrates his birthday with parades and musical performances. Legendary Thai actor Mitr Chaibancha, who appeared in more than 300 Thai films between the 1950s and 1970s, lived in Nang Loeng with his parents and attended school here from 1942 to 1954. Following his tragic death, pre-cremation rituals at local Wat Sunthon Thammathan (Wat Khae Nang Loeng) attracted 100,000 fans. Mitr’s movies no doubt saw many screenings at the Sala Chaloem Thani, a huge, barn-like wooden structure adjacent to the market. According to Philip Jablon, creator of the Southeast Asia Movie Theater Project, this is the oldest standing theatre in all of Thailand. Also known as Nang Loeng Cinema, the theatre opened its doors in 1918 and closed in 1993. During the cinema’s early years, silent films were accompanied by a live brass band. Today the imposing wooden cinema stands empty, yet still carries a majestic presence despite its decaying condition. The Crown Property Bureau, which owns the land upon which Nang Loeng is built, announced a few years ago that it would renovate the theatre for conversion to a museum, but so far there has been no activity in that direction. A very unattractive ceramic-tile courtyard in front of the building blocks the view of the old box office and poster walls, but the upper story, including the original cinema sign, is still clearly visible.
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Much livelier is Nang Loeng Market, filled with merchants purveying cooked foods and, to a lesser extent, fresh produce. Several vendors specialize in traditional Thai sweets made with rice flour, coconut, palm sugar, and fruits, delicacies which would have been very popular among the Bangkok wealthy in the early 20th century. Khao chae, a labour-intensive dish in which rice is soaked in water scented with jasmine and a fragrant cooking candle, and then eaten with an assortment of savoury sides, is available here year round. Elsewhere in Thailand, it’s typically only made in the hot season. Narrow lanes adjacent to the market contain sit-down eateries serving traditional Thai and Chinese fare. The most famous, Khao Kaeng Rattana, is a classic rice-andcurry shop operated by a family whose forebears cooked for the royal palace. Must-try dishes include kaeng kati sai bua (lotus stems in coconut cream), phat fak thong (Thai pumpkin stir-fried with eggs), and kaeng khiaw waan (green curry, here prepared with coconut shoots). Also delicious is pla kraphong neung manao, fresh whole sea bass steamed with lime juice and a generous helping of chopped chilies. Nearby Sor Roong Roj serves tasty roasted and stewed duck with noodles or rice. Most sitdown shops are open from 10am to 2pm, while market vendors open earlier and close later. Beyond the market grazing and building-spotting, Nang Loeng is Bangkok’s last stand for Lakhon Chatri, a highly developed Thai dance-drama tradition that originated in Nakhon Si Thammarat. Several experts in Thai traditional dance believe Lakhon Chatri may be the oldest existing form of Thai traditional performing arts and possibly the prototype for all Thai dance-drama. The Thai word lakhon means “dramatic performance” while the translation of chatri is a bit trickier. Some think the word might be a Siamese corruption of the Sanskrit word kshatriya, meaning “king,” since the costumes and storylines favour royal themes. Lakhon Chatri enjoyed widespread popularity in southern Thailand before it was introduced to Bangkok in the mid-18th century. Original troupes featured an all-male cast who performed shirtless. In later years in central Thailand, female performers came to dominate, adding blouses to the costumes. Nang Loeng is the home of Bangkok’s last living master of Lakhon Chatri, Khru Kanya “Ja” Tippayosot, whose family moved to the city from Nakhon Si Thammarat 150 years ago to perform and teach. Her mother performed chatri in Phnom Penh for the court of Cambodian monarch Sisowath Monivong (reg 19271941), the only Thai dancer ever to be offered this honour. The lithe, 70-year-old dancer is the only person alive who can play every role in Lakhon Chatri, leading a troupe that resides in Nang Loeng but still performs on request around Bangkok and beyond. The only Chatri teacher in the city, she trains children in the community as well as occasional foreign visitors. To find out when Khru Ja’s Chatri troupe is performing next, or to commission a performance, contact her through tenkinramkin.com or call 08 5133 4724.
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Bizarre
Thailand
A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.
8 REASONS WHY I STILL LOVE LIVING IN THAILAND
In this entry from his blog, Jim Algie (author of the short-fiction collection The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand ) runs down all the reasons he is still enamoured of the kingdom in spite of all the whining expats.
Nothing is more common among expats than sitting around complaining about their adopted country and its inhabitants. When scholars claim that the age of colonialism ended after the British handover of Hong Kong back in 1997, they should really have a read of Thaivisa. com: a forum that takes Thai bashing and Western hubris to levels rarely seen since that 19th century anthropologist coined the term “noble savages.” But I won’t complain too loudly, because I’ve done my unfair share of it, too. Sometimes we forget why we moved on to explore and reside in other countries. The longer you live abroad the more jaded you become, and the less open you are to that magic which first drew you there in the first place. But sometimes, on a rare evening, or at a new festival or in a different locale, you can recapture that sense of 3 4 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
enchantment. I had such a night in early December 2014, which reminded me of a number of reasons why I still love Thailand. 1. SECRET SOCIETIES Expats always moan that Bangkok is a cultural Sahara. No bands, no arts and entertainment, no theatre, big sporting events, or comedy clubs, etc. That’s not always true. Over the last few months we’ve had Mogwai, Belle and Sebastian, Thurston Moore, Temples, and quite a few local indie acts playing. The smallness of the scene for creative endeavors makes the gigs and exhibitions more intimate affairs, much like secret societies. It’s not hard to meet the main players, as it most definitely is in places like London, New York and Tokyo. So when Boaz Zippor mentioned on Facebook bangkok101.com
highlight that he’d done some of the music for an upcoming butoh performance, I asked him for details. He generously offered me two free tickets and there they were, just as promised, for what turned out to be an exceptional performance at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, as good as any butoh shows I’ve seen in Europe or North America. 2. ECCENTRIC EXPATS Of course, Boaz doesn’t go out to his own events, even if he did write and record the experimental music for the performance. I had to admire that. A musician who doesn’t even turn up for his own gigs, or seemingly go out at all from what he tells me on Facebook. Thailand has been endowed with many eccentric expats. I half suspect that many of their brains and DNA samples will one day wind up as specimens in an alien laboratory. Imagine that. A distant star populated by Boaz Zippor clones all trying to hide from or kill each other? At least the music and photographic evidence of the carnage will be good. 3. THE MYSTERIOUS CACOPHONY CONTINUES After only a few weeks in Thailand I began wondering why some of the campfire or picnic guitarists didn’t bother tuning their guitars. Why were karaoke singers so frequently off-key that they’d have to catch a taxi back to the tune? Why did Thais turn the music up so loud that the speakers were distorting? Over the years I developed all sorts of different theories, like perhaps all that sugary pop music that makes up so much of the Thai musical diet had caused their eardrums to rot from the inside. After more than two decades, it remains a mystery. As we walked past all the different beer gardens (Singha, Chang, Leo, Heineken and their color-coded waitresses) around Siam and CentralWorld, with music blaring from four or five different sound systems into a cacophonous symphony of discordancy, I tried to get Noel’s opinion on this mysterious matter, but he couldn’t hear me because the music was too loud. 4. METEOROLOGICAL REFUGEES We [Canucks] tend to migrate to warmer climes. And I still love the weather in Thailand. On this December evening it was 24 Celsius in Bangkok. In my hometown of Edmonton it was -20 — not including the wind chill factor — or as they say back home, “It’s kinda chilly out there, eh?” This may be a case of out of the deep freeze and into the deep fryer, but I still prefer the heat. 5. BEAUTIFUL LAXITY In search of a quieter place to have an after-butoh beer we finally made it to the canal-side bar and restaurant under the bridge by the ferry stop at Pratunam. We had a table outside, close enough to smell the fishy slime and diesel fumes from the black canal slithering with snakes of fluorescent light. Beside us a group of Thai boatmen were repairing an engine while smoking cigarettes and drinking beer. In most Western countries this restaurant would have been closed down before it even opened. In Thailand such bangkok101.com
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places flourish — and I’ve never once gotten sick from eating at them. 6. THE MIRTH FACTOR Some may mock the Thai grins as superficial and the jokes as juvenile, but I’ll take the Land of Smiles over the Land of Scowls any day. Two years ago, in a Shanghai beer garden, I thought I’d finally lucked out by sitting down next to the most boisterous and mirthful group of locals I had ever encountered in China. After eavesdropping on their conversation for about 10 seconds, I quickly realized they were Thai tourists. 7. GATECRASHERS ARE WELCOME Thailand is the greatest country in the world to gatecrash. On this December evening, as we waited for a server to come and take our order it dawned on us that there was a Christmas party going on. I love crashing Christmas parties. I especially love pillaging from them when they’re for English teachers. Nice and polite as you please, I asked the barman for a pitcher. He served me with smiles and thanks as if I was the one doing him the favor. (Never forget the privilege that locals often treat foreigners, as long as they don’t look too poor or shabby, better than their own countrymen and women.) We decided to take a selfie next to the party sign, as if to tell them, “We stole your beer and ate your food and best of all we won’t be hungover tomorrow morning and teaching the present continuous tense. Merry Christmas.” 8. GENEROUS PEOPLE In search of our final port for last call we teetered down a nearby soi to see one of those genius names and signs that Thais come up with at the drop of a consonant: The Aphrodite Inn. Next to the reception there was a bar area but all the lights were off. From our experience, this is never an excuse to go home in pleasure-loving Thailand. Noel put his superior Thai skills to the test by cajoling the older Thai guy behind the desk into opening the fridge to sell us a beer, and there we sat, right in the very ovaries of the Aphrodite Inn, recounting our good fortune: free tickets from a caring misanthrope, an excellent show, the sonic bombardment of the beer gardens, the balmy weather even in December, the canal-side “entertainment” of watching boat mechanics in action, the gatecrashing and freeloading, the air of conviviality throughout the night, and the final act of generosity from a man who had nothing to gain from us except some gratitude. So go ahead and keep complaining, but when I add up all the positives of my life in Thailand, then subtract the negatives, I’m still way ahead of the game. This blog excerpt comes from the author of Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Sex, Crime and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourist attractions.
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very thai
DINNER ON A STICK FOR THE CONSTANT URGE TO SNACK, STREETFOOD IS ALWAYS CLOSE AT HAND PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH
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hai food’s prime format is the morsel. In curry, dips made with shrimp paste, yum (spicy salad) and most other dishes, the cook pre-cuts each portion so you can shovel with spoon and fork, or nibble off skewers, often from inside a plastic bag. Every imaginable khong khob khio (thing to bite or chew) sits skewered on bamboo, displayed in glazed cabinets or arrayed in patterns on trays, racks, grills and griddles. Myriad parts of pig or chicken are laced satay-style over charcoal: meat, liver, heart, intestines. Sausages come long, short, round or sliced. Meatballs might be pork, fish or buffalo disguised as beef. Much else gets speared: dumplings, cuttlefish, parboiled eggs in their shell and unhatched chick fetus. Even miang kham — a do-ityourself mixture of savoury ingredients you fold into a leaf — has turned into a lazy snack, pre-wrapped and lanced for eating without effort. Dessert comes morsel-sized too. Huge trays atop vendor tricycles tempt passers-by with gelatinous cubes. Speared by a cocktail stick they’re concocted from coconut, palm sugar, banana, taro, bean paste and rice in myriad forms. Whole fried bananas also get served on a stick. The archetypal all-day nibble is fruit. Wheeling his glazed trolley, the fruit vendor performs a well-honed system when hailed. Opening the hinged glass lid, he stabs at, say, an unripe mango with his all-purpose knife, flips it onto a curved metal cutting plate, and repeatedly chops through to the hard seed while rotating the fruit. He levers off slivers of the sour green flesh and slides them through the plate’s funnel-like end into a plastic bag. This — with other bags of fruit like spiral cut pineapple, bendy lengths of papaya or half-moons of melon — enters yet another plastic bag, this one with handles. Pink sachets of sugar, salt and chilli provide the dip, satisfying the tropical body’s need for liquids, salts and sugar to rehydrate. After a quick swab with a cloth, knife, tray and glass lid get eased back into their designated slots.
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
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Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
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heritage
S N A P S H OT S
BLENDING ART NOUVEAU & BAROQUE WANG PARUTSAKAWAN’S SECRET TREASURES BY LUC CITRINOT
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t stands inconspicuous, unnoticed by most visitors. Ever-changing crowds shuffle in and out of the imposing Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall or the harmonious successions of Thai roofs crowning the Marble Temple. They pass by the straw yellow low-rise also entrenched behind the high gates and walls of the Suan Dusit compound, perhaps unconsciously, or maybe out of caution. Wang Parutsakawan, meaning “the Palace of Marian Plums,” looks so quiet it might seem vacant, if not inaccessible. A traveller would be justified in feeling guarded at first — brave is the soul who ventures inside a building belonging to the Royal Thai Police just for the sake of looking at it; however, this early twentieth-century building is an architectural jewel. An exquisite structure built with perfect proportions, the palace consists of two grand mansions. They were built for Prince Chakrabongse Bhuvanath, the Prince of Phitsanulok, a son of King Chulalongkorn, Rama V. The gate of the main mansion still bears the royal coat of arms of the Chakrabongse family, but the property has been long deserted by this princely family. The palace has had a curious destiny. By 1919, no longer serving as a residence, it became the Siamese Prime Minister’s office. Later, it was handed over to the Police Department and turned into the headquarters of the National Intelligence Services. During times of unrest, the palace was bombarded by protestors or blockaded by officials, its importance to society clearly etched into history. Today, like a butterfly leaving its cocoon, Parutsakawan Wang has been transformed into the striking home of the National Police Museum (the building remains a part of police headquarters). Open to the bangkok101.com
public, its status is further cemented in the Thai collective memory with each passing year. Italian architect Mario Tamagno designed the main palace for Prince Bhuvanath, who had a great fondness for Europe, having studied in England and Russia, to reflect his modern tastes. At that time, Art Nouveau was sweeping through Europe, its tenets proclaiming art to be a way of life. And so the palace integrates Italy’s most identifiable artistic style into everyday objects. Most iconic are the verandahs and green pediments over the windows, designed with floral motifs adhering to Art Nouveau’s allencompassing traditions. All doors — even the details on balconies — embrace the style of the times. While the external façade exudes Art Nouveau, its rooms are more evocative of grand Baroque aesthetics. Heavy chandeliers; large mirrors; stucco friezes; frescoes underlined by shades of purple, green, orange, and yellow — the fixtures practically transport visitors from Bangkok to Vienna or Milan. On the ground floor, a video details the history and architecture of the palace, providing information about the neighbouring facilities in the complex, including the second mansion within the compounds that, while visible, remains closed to the public. The Police Museum contains a wealth of interesting facts and figures. On display are old uniforms and documents. Inside is a replica of an old prison cell, behind whose bars visitors seem to love taking photographs. All in good fun, as they say.
WANG PARUTSAKAWAN 323 Si Ayutthaya Rd, Dusit | 0 2282 5057 | policemuseum.police.go.th Wed-Sun, 10am-4pm | Free admission, photography allowed
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NO, THEY AREN’T SOME KIND OF MUTANT JELLYFISH - THESE RED BEAUTIES ARE THE STAR ATTRACTION OF SURAT THANI’S RAMBUTAN FAIR 4 0 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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RAMBUTAN FAIR
SURAT THANI T
he home of the little red rambutan, Surat Thani, beckons fruit-lovers to the South this month for an eleven-day fair, from July 19 to 30. If you’re wondering why a small fruit merits a province-wide celebration, just know that it’s part of Surat Thani’s slogan: roy koh, ngo aroi, hoy yai, khai daeng, laeng dhamma, which means hundreds of islands, delicious rambutan, oysters, salted eggs, and the land of Buddhism. The rambutan was first brought to the province in the 1920s, and it flourished. Today, the fruit, which is roughly the size of a lychee, can be found in fresh markets across the country. It looks gnarly, but the green and red spines are actually soft to the touch. Apply pressure to the shell to uncover opaque, jelly-like flesh wrapped around a seed (don’t eat the seed — you’ll regret it). It’s sweet, juicy, and refreshing, but never cloying. The highlights of the fair include parades, a tour of a rambutan plantation, and, of course, the “Miss Rambutan” beauty pageant. In between activities, enjoy shopping for local goods and sampling scores of fresh fruit. On a lighter — and more absurd note — there will also be a coconut harvesting demonstration put on by trained monkeys. There are lots of carnival games and contests, too, so bring the whole family. And don’t leave without a few bags of rambutan for the road.
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upcountry now
Pattaya International Marathon
July 19 Pattaya International Marathon
Cape Panwa Phuket Race Week
July 15-August 2 12th Cape Panwa Phuket Race Week
Runners from all over the country will flock to the hedonists’ haven for the Pattaya International Marathon on July 19. The annual lung-burner includes various classes of race (halfmarathon, quarter marathon, wheelchair, etc.) and kicks off on Beach Road, beside CentralFestival Shopping Centre, before the blazing sun rises. Check pattaya-marathon.net for more information.
Sponsored by the Cape Panwa Hotel, this international regatta will host six classes of sailing races in and around Phuket’s Chalong Bay. Spanning four days and five nights, there will also be glam beachside parties open only to participants, featuring free-flow beer, wine, and spirits. Fees for boat entry are B12000 and B4200 for crew tickets. If you are keen to race, register online at phuketraceweek.com.
July 15-19 International Wax Sculpture and Candle Procession Festival In the temple courtyards of Ubon Ratchathani, men sharpen their knives and carve impressive Buddhist sculptures out of candle wax. These are then paraded through town and presented as offerings during merit making ceremonies. It’s all quite fascinating. The festivities, which kick off in the middle of July this year, are based around Thung Sri Muang Park and the Ubon Ratchathani National Museum. Some of the wax sculptures will be on display for another week or so following the event.
July 17-18 ASEAN Arts Festival With ASEAN gradually becoming a reality, the Thai government has organized a new fair to promote tourism in the region. The ASEAN Arts Festival is being held at Tha Phae Gate in Chiang Mai. The festival features cultural exhibitions, music and art shows, and food and shopping from each member country, a united effort to position ASEAN as a prime regional destination on the international scene. 4 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
Hyatt Open Golf Tournament
July 18-19 Hyatt Open Golf Tournament 2015 Golf enthusiasts should swing down to the Banyan Golf Club in Hua Hin for this annual amateur, yet competitive, tournament. After the rounds, retreat to a luxurious guestroom at the nearby Hyatt Regency Hua Hin. A two night stay, welcome dinner, two rounds of golf (including golf cart and caddy), awards luncheon, and complimentary transfers start from B20800 nett for one player and B29800 for two. To reserve a place or find out more, call 0 3252 1234 or email reservations. hrhuahin@hyatt.com. bangkok101.com
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July 29-31 Tak Bat Dok Mai Festival During Khao Pansa (Buddhist Lent Day), Buddhists flock to Phra Phuttabat, Saraburi, to celebrate Tak Bat Dok Mai. In the morning, they offer alms to the monks. The highlight of the festival, however, is in the afternoon, when locals go to a nearby mountain to collect special flowers in bloom called Dok Khao Pansa, or Globba; then, they offer the flowers to monks at Wat Phra Phutthabat Ratchaworamahawihan.
July 30 Tak Bat Dok Mai
Asarnha Bucha Day This holiday is revered among the nation’s Buddhists. Across Thailand, the devout give alms in the morning, and then in the afternoon and evening listen to monks chanting and light candles in ceremonies. Asanha Bucha marks the first time the Buddha introduced his religion to the world. Today, it serves as a memorial, a time to reflect, pray, and recall good practices.
July 30-August 1 Kathu Culture Street Festival
Asarnha Bucha Day
Recognizing the importance of cultural heritage, the locals of Phuket established the Kathu Culture Street Festival to celebrate and promote its rich traditions. Experience the real Phuket through the eyes and styles of locals. Take in vibrant performances, enjoy good southern food, and learn about Phuket’s history, including the origins of the residents and the island’s past incarnation as a centre for tin mining.
Mount Meru on Earth: Isan’s Khmer heritage runs deep
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PALACES OF THE GODS
From Buriram to Sisaket, thousands of stone temples underscore lower Isan’s noble Khmer heritage. BY JOE CUMMINGS
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ising above the high plains of northeastern Thailand, man-made stone peaks today bear witness to the half-millennium reign of a powerful Khmer state which flourished from the 9th to 14th centuries. Although mostly known to today’s world as Angkor, another historical name for the civilization that extended from southern Laos into western Cambodia, as well as much of Thailand’s lower northeast, was Isanapura. Meaning “Abode of Shiva,”
Prasat Hin Phanom Rung in Buriram bangkok101.com
in tribute to the principal religious tradition of the area for many centuries, the name was shortened to “Isan” by later generations of Siamese. Often erected on hilltops, the extraordinary towers of Isanapura comprised parts of a temple architecture meant to symbolize Mount Meru, the mythical peak at the centre of the Hindu-Buddhist universe. Surrounding Meru, this universe unfolds in concentric circles or squares
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Though it may resemble Angkor Wat, this old temple is parked on an extinct volcano in Isan representing seven continents alternating with cosmic oceans. Beyond the seventh continent stretches an infinite ocean interrupted solely by four “corner” continents. In more advanced Khmer temple complexes, moats and ponds around and amongst the towers and pavilions were intended to represent the oceans in this cosmic universe. Sometimes referred to as “high Cambodia,” the provinces of Buriram, Surin, Nakhon Ratchasima, Surin, and Sisaket became a choice locale for the development of these Meru microcosms. Although Thai folk belief once held that the larger, cruciform-plan monuments served as “palaces” for Angkor’s all-powerful kings, in fact these buildings were designed as worldly abodes for Shiva, Vishnu, Maitreya, and other Hindu or Buddhist deities called to earth via religious ritual. To the east of Isan’s templedotted plateaus lay the river valleys of “low Cambodia,” the monarchical capital of the Angkor civilization. Although often overlooked in favour of the famed Angkor city complex in Cambodia, the Khmer monuments of Isan represent key architectural milestones in the development of Angkor design and ritual. In fact, virtually every Angkor-period monument played a role in an elaborate cosmology that linked the entire network, half of which lay in what is today Thailand. While Theravada Buddhism dominated central Thailand’s Dvaravati kingdom from the 6th to 10th centuries, archaeological evidence suggests that by the 7th to 9th century AD, Mahayana Buddhism had reached 4 6 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
Isan, most probably from the east. The grand Prasat Hin Phimai temple complex in Nakhon Ratchasima served as a Mahayana Buddhist centre (of the Tantric variety) in the early 12th century. Meanwhile in the more elevated terrain around Prasat Hin Phanom Rung, Isan’s second most significant Khmer temple, Hinduism prevailed. A sacred “superhighway” linked Prasat Hin Phimai with 12th-century Angkor Wat, the largest and most complex of the Khmer temples. Angkor rulers were at the time considered to be devaraja, or “god-kings,” and to maintain that vaunted status they and their priests periodically travelled between key monuments to perform complex ceremonies involving fire, water, and linga (sanctified stone sculptures representing Shiva’s phallus). Monuments en route offered spiritual and temporal support along these potentially arduous journeys, including 102 “houses of fire” and 121 “healing stations.” These structures became so important to the sanctity of the Angkor Empire that some 300 Khmer shrines were erected between the 7th and 13th centuries. The Bangkok 101 Guide to Khmer Art & Architecture Known as prasat (from the Sanskrit, prasada, a term applied to cube-like religious structures), these Khmer sanctuaries feature elaborate monuments of brick, sandstone, or laterite, richly carved with religious themes empowering the shrine for ritual use. The Thai word hin bangkok101.com
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The entryway, dotted with lotus ponds
Hindu mythology immortalized in stone
A relief carved into a lintel at Prasat Hin Phimai
(stone) is usually appended to prasat in the modern Thai names of these temples, e.g. Prasat Hin Phimai and Prasat Hin Phanom Rung. To identify whether a particular temple is Hindu or Buddhist in origin, take note of the temple’s key decorative elements, which should indicate the underlying religious basis for its construction. For example, the southern lintel of the main sanctuary at Prasat Hin Phimai bears a sculpture of a Buddha meditating beneath sevenheaded naga, the mythical serpent protector of Buddhism. Meanwhile, a similarly placed lintel at Prasat Hin Phanom Rung depicts Shiva, a primary deity in Hinduism. Smaller tower-topped structures, leading to the main shrines (in the case of axial plans) or surrounding them on four sides (in central plans), are known as gopura, a Sanskrit term applied to entrance pavilions. At some sites, most prominently Prasat Phanom Rung and Khao Phra Viharn, gopuras are arranged in a straight line leading up to the main shrine. At others, such as Prasat Phimai and Prasat Kamphaeng Yai, gopuras are incorporated into the main surrounding wall at equally spaced compass points. Once a design was finalized, bricks were moulded or stones cut, the various components of an assembled temple became a vast canvas for the gifted Khmer sculptors of the era. Virtually every portion of the temple — every cornice, lintel, pediment, and pilaster — was carved to represent important scenes from Hindu or Buddhist mythology.
The most important relief carvings are almost always found on lintels, the assemblage of stone or brick along the tops of doorways. Since to enter and leave the various temple chambers one must pass through the various doorways, lintel art is guaranteed a captive audience. One of the richest lintel motifs depicts the Hindu god Vishnu asleep on the back of Ananta Sesha, a sea serpent which floats on the cosmic sea of eternity. Growing from Vishnu’s navel, a lotus vine branches into several blossoms, on one of which sits Brahma, the Hindu god responsible for creating the universe. This scene represents the pre-creation cosmos lying dormant, but, with the emergence of Brahma, about to be activated. The most famous Vishnu relief of this kind occupies an elegantly carved lintel at Prasat Hin Phanom Rung. Vishnu also makes frequent appearances as two of his major incarnations, Rama and Krishna. At Prasat Hin Phimai, visitors can view a relief depicting Krishna defeating the demon Kamsa at the eastern portico of the main prang. Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction and renewal, is equally present at Hindu temple sites. One of the deity’s most striking sculptural appearances portrays him as the multi-armed Nataraja or King of Dance. In one of his right hands he holds a small two-headed drum representing creation, and, in one of his left hands, a flame representing destruction. Thus the dance symbolizes the cyclical nature of the cosmos as it moves from creation to destruction and back again, with Shiva as the central catalyst.
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The old Jaarbeurs building recalls the past glory of turn-of-the-century architecture in Bandung
over the border
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Bandoeng
Tempo Doeloe Indonesia’s Se cret Capit al of Ar t De co BY LUC CITRINOT
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rt Deco, a movement that married minimalist shapes and geometrical motifs, is best associated with Miami, New York, Shanghai, or Helsinki. Less conspicuous among those cinematic conurbations is Bandung, the capital of West Java. A three-hour drive from Jakarta, this tropical outpost may not have the size or sparkle of its larger foreign brethren, but it does have a wealth of architectural wonders calling back heritage enthusiasts time and time again. In Malaysia or Singapore today, the name “Bandung” elicits memories of weekend-long shopping sprees. The city is home to countless outlet stores, particularly those selling shoes. But the city wasn’t built on an empire of sneakers and stilettos. Over the mountains and luminescent paddy fields blows a soft breeze. Bandung, a city with one of Java’s most pleasant climates, welcomes visitors with its cool embrace. It’s no wonder that, during colonial times, the Dutch had dreamt of turning this place into Indonesia’s capital. While the change never came to be, the infrastructure of a rising pluralistic city took shape.
Straight lines and ornate features define Art Deco bangkok101.com
In the former Dutch East Indies, Dutch and Indonesian architects set to work transforming the city. The height of their activity took place between 1900 and 1940. With tree-lined avenues, a multitude of parks, and elegant streets, Bandung was given the nickname “The Paris of Java.” According to US-born Frances B. Affandy, former executive director of the Bandung Heritage Society, the city boasts about 500 Art Deco buildings, an astounding figure for any metropolis. Indeed, Art Deco stipples the city. The omnipresence of buildings constructed in the style has a dissolutive effect — they have become almost invisible to Bandung’s citizens. Kids attend school in a structure made brick by brick in the 1920s. Locals sip milkshakes and coffee in a small shop with bold geometrical lines. At the most prestigious university in the area, the Institut Teknologi Bandung, students file in to the 90-year-old auditorium each morning. The novelty of the architecture sinks in to the structure of routine. Despite an ostensible lack of knowledge concerning Bandung’s architectural history, locals have nevertheless
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Gedung Merdeka, Bandung’s Independence Hall lit up at night fashioned their lives around their iconic heritage buildings. Each evening, a joyful crowd of young people gather around Gedung Sate, so named because the spire of its roof suggests the shape of a satay skewer. Built in 1920, the white neo-classical structure, now the office of West Java’s governor, shows classical Hindu-Buddhist elements entwined with Art Deco details. Apart from its historical importance, it does double-duty as Bandung’s preferred spot to snap a selfie. The heritage/photo-op combination continues at the Gedung Merdeka, the independence hall that stood witness as Indonesia gained independence from the Netherlands. Today, it’s a recurrent background in cell phone shots — especially so among teenagers, seeing as Gedung Merdeka is just a few minutes by foot from Braga Road, a popular destination for young adults. This street used to be the centre of commercial life in the 1920s. In fact, it might have been the inspiration for the city’s comparison to Paris, thanks to long lines of shops that recall the grandeur of Europe. Now, only fading signage above a tailor shop bearing “Paris” suggests its prestigious past. Although boutiques have relocated to shopping malls and the vacated premises have been turned into small restaurants or music clubs that attract groups of youth counter-culture, not all sites have conceded to the times. In an old bakery shop called Sumber Hindangan Bakerij, counters and chairs date back to the late 1940s — and so do, perhaps, some of the employees. If the throwback style doesn’t attract visitors, then the sweet, buttery smell of baked goods will. In a parallel street, the owner of Aroma Paberik still uses machines made in 1936 to grill coffee beans, and the advertising on its coffee bags hardly seem to have changed from the golden days, either. 5 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
From anachronistic imagery to shop workers transplanted from days gone by, Bandung has a fun side. The city is rich with incredible architectural details that lend the city its charm. Near the Institut Teknologi Bandung, Dutch architect Henri Maclaine Pont let his imagination run wild in the construction of villas. The “On Thuis Villa” (today, the University’s Department of Mining) adds a playful surprise with its disproportionate roof. Visitors are often equally astonished upon viewing a huge roof crowning another of Pont’s achievements, the Villa Merah, named for the vivid colours of the bricks used to build it. There are so many fantastic buildings around Bandung that doing triage — which to view, which to skip — can be a true challenge. One not to miss is Villa Isola. Perched at the top of a hill, the villa was built by Bandung’s most famous architect, C.P. Wolff Schoemaker, in the 1920s. With its soft curves and rounded windows, it looks like a lost ship among a sea of green. This setting is pure Schoemaker. His skill lay in the way he blended Dutch Expressionism with Indonesian influences, mostly from Sundanese (West Java) and Batak (North Sumatra) cultures. Among some of his other masterpieces in Bandung are the Cipaganti mosque, which mixes Moorish, Sundanese, and Art Deco styles, and the Kologdam Building, which originally served as the home of the annual trade fair and is crowned by three giant sculptures of a nude male, an image seemingly at odds with the country’s conservative underpinnings. A trip to Bandung is a plunge into a bygone era of architecture. Even some of its hotels capture the lavish spirit of Art Deco, including the recently built IBIS Style. The trendy property has preserved its glass doors etched with past titles “Hotel Wilhelmina” and “Hôtel des PaysBas” — a symbol of Bandung’s blend of old and new, indigenous and imported. bangkok101.com
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SENSE OF SURROUNDINGS The subconscious speaks a strange language. It barks out orders, stirs up fears, paints emotions in silver and shadows. Combined with the role of our everyday surroundings, the landscape of dreams and nightmares often proves elusive to comprehend. This tenebrous territory is the muse for Thai artists Rath Panitcharoenphol and Winyagorn Junthasiri, whose canvas illustrations explore the peculiarities of the subconscious through an olla podrida of signs and symbols. Sense of Surroundings features the vibrant, bizarre, and often chaotic work of the artists. While the two work under the same theme, their styles and emotions vary wildly. Rath relies on limited colour schemes, using fluid movements and tones to convey complex, dark ideas. Winyagorn, on the other hand, channels psychedelic energy into whimsical, yet symmetrical, illustrations. Like the balance between darkness and light, the disparate approaches serve to complement one another. Sense of Surroundings is on view from June 19 to July 31 at Koi Art Gallery.
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exhibitions
CONFESSION
WHITE SPACE GALLERY 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1, Rama IV Rd | 08 1699 5298 whitesp-cegallery.com | BTS Sala Daeng
July 18-August 15 This series of photographs is an examination of artist Naraphat Sakarthomsap’s conscience — what is good, what is evil, and what falls in the gray area between the two. Over the course of a year, the artist shared his emotions through social media and verbal expressions. The photographs serve as a journal for his days, each picture like a hidden notebook full of stories that have never been told.
RAW
BROWNSTONE STUDIOS 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77 Bangkok | 08 7703 0448, 08 5483 7675 I1pm-1am | brownstonestudio.webs.com
Until July 20 Gathering Bangkok residents and overseas artists, this group exhibition focuses on the initial marks made by an artist at the moment of inspiration. Often this creative seed, whether an artist’s sketch or scribble on a scrap of paper, becomes obscured (and in some instances muted) by subsequent deliberations. Participating artists include Justin Mills, Joe Delaney, Michelle Roberts, Hannah Theodorou, Jeff Ross, JP Pempasorn, and Karma Sirikogar.
HAPPINESS LAND
ARDEL’S THIRD PLACE GALLERY The Third Place, Thonglor Soi 10, Soi 55 Sukhumvit Rd 0 2422 2092, 08 4772 2887, 08 6890 2762 | ardelgallery.com Tue-Sat 10.30 am-7pm, Sun 10.30 am-5.30 pm | BTS Thong Lo
Until July 25 The exhibition presents paintings of temples and monasteries set amid vast mountain ranges, rivers, streams, and vegetation, all done in acrylic on canvas, by Teerawat Kanama. The paintings carry religious overtones, reflecting the pure and modest ideology of Buddhism, which cultivates peace of mind through simple activities, such as making merit and going to the temple.
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exhibitions
A RT & C U LT U R E
OUT OF CURIOSITY
S GALLERY GF Sofitel Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd | 09 3582 6588 Daily 10am-10pm | BTS Asoke/Nana
Until August 6 French artist-architect Bruno Tanquerel’s imagery celebrates fantasy through a pastiche of styles. Drawing from influential European artists, including the Dadaist Marcel Duchamp and Paul Klee, Tanquerel overlaps figures and abstract motifs with both humour and sadness as he attempts to capture the essence of human relationships and personal encounters.
ULTIM.
ROTUNDA GALLERY & GARDEN GALLERY Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd | 0 2233 1731 neilsonhayslibrary.com | Tue-Sun 9.30am-5pm | BTS Sala Daeng
Until August 2 ULTIM. brings together a collection of original etchings made using a silkscreen stencil. The artists, drawn from all over the world, share the common goal of combining abstraction with geometrical representations. They were inspired by the Concrete Art movement. The silkscreens were produced in limited editions and gathered by Eric Tilbury, a professor at Chulalongkorn.
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Life is a Fairy Tale Acclaimed Artist Jeremyville Lends his Joie de Vivre to the Heart of Bangkok 5 8 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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interview
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hick lines begin to form shapes. Children, animals, creatures from the furthest corners of the artist’s imagination fill the white space. Pencil strokes put on their caps. Colours give them life. Their faces are finished with smiles and bug eyes and satisfied sighs. The world of Jeremyville is a fascinating place. From now until the end of 2015, Groove@CentralWorld plays host to the magical, peace-sign-wielding sculptures and illustrations of the Sydney-born, New York-based artist known as Jeremyville. The exhibition is part of his Community Service Announcements (CSAs), projects that stoke curiosity and are united around the need for self-expression. Each exhibition — and there are many dotting the map, from Belgium and Italy to Hong Kong — features messages meant to inspire social and personal development, urging viewers to wonder about the human condition. Jeremyville’s visit to CentralWorld is part of the mall’s commitment to blend the shopping experience with the arts. Visitors will not only come face-to-face with the iconic artwork — including a four-metre-tall sculpture — they will also be able to bring some of it home in the form of shirts, skate decks, shoes, and more designed for Cappellini, Converse, Disney, LeSportsac, Kiehl’s, Mercedes Benz, and Uniqlo. Titled “A Trip to Jeremyville,” the project at Groove centres on the theme “Feel Freedom Again.” The curious, vibrant exhibition engages passersby with a warm, friendly approach. Alongside the massive sculptures are messages posted at the Ratchaprasong intersection, poetry providing a break from Bangkok’s hectic pace of life. The artist took a break from a live paste-up performance to talk briefly about his work and style.
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What messages does “Feel Freedom Again” harbour in its title? We work to express our sense of freedom — not necessarily freedom as a sort of political agenda, but rather an interior freedom to heal our souls. This concept is the base of our human essence. So the aim of the exhibition is to connect with people and provide a moment of stillness in our fast-paced lives. Where do you draw your inspiration? I collect about six ideas a day, on average, and sketch them in my book in the evening. I like to explore love, virtue, empathy, sorrow and happiness, the ideas of selfempowerment and introspection. I post the sketches on my blog and Facebook page to share with my audience. Change and expression are within all of us. I don’t think there’s an end to creativity. Has being in Thailand, however briefly, influenced your work? I’ve already visited Japan, Korea, and Hong Kong, so I’m familiar with Asia. My first impression of Bangkok is that I love the atmosphere. There’s energy in the air, a sense of optimism that I really enjoy. I’m sure that what I’ve discovered here will influence my illustrations before long.
Follow Jeremyville’s daily CSAs on Instagram @Jeremyville or Facebook.com/ JeremyvilleDaily. For more information about the artist, visit his website, jeremyville. com, and stop by Groove@CentralWorld to explore his fantastic world. J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 5 9
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cheat notes
MEKONG KIDS Chubby, nine-year-old Boom lives in a village in northeastern Thailand along the Mekong River. As he treks to school each day, other local boys shout names at him. He doesn’t have any friends. But, when he visits a festival at the school where his mother teaches, his life begins to change. Boom helps his team win a tug-of-war competition and makes his first friend. One friend leads to another, and soon Boom’s days fill with activities: swimming, camping, hunting lizards, playing football. His goodness helps create a network of close friends within and beyond his village community. Through it all, Boom learns to overcome his fears, bridge social barriers, and act with loyalty, kindness, and sincerity. Mekong Kids is a translation of Luk Mae Nam Khong, the award-winning young adult novel by Khemachat, a civil engineer-turned-author who grew up by the river in Nong Khai. The book is the first in a trilogy, and so far the only one of three translated to English. It includes a map, cultural notes, discussion questions, and a glossary. Mekong Kids (translated by Peter Ross) is currently available at Asia Books for B395.
JUK’S ADVENTURE IN BANGKOK
Thai culture stars in this colourful journey of one little boy, Juk, and his travels around the capital. Written and illustrated by Meng Lin Chen and Michael Kirjon, Juk’s Adventure in Bangkok tells the story of Juk, a top-knotted youngster from Phuket who visits his friend in Bangkok. Together, they visit Bangkok’s brightest attractions, such as the Grand Palace, a floating market, and the Chao Phraya River. Through vibrant visual images and easy-toread text, Chen and Kirjon illuminate the lifestyle of locals living in Bangkok on every page. The young learner book is available in nine different languages: English, Swedish, German, Japanese, Chinese, French, Italian, Spanish, and Thai. Juk’s Adventure in Bangkok is one of three books in the Juk’s Adventures series, which includes Juk’s Adventure in Phuket and Juk’s Adventure in Chiang Mai. Juk’s Adventure in Bangkok is available at leading bookstores, priced at B350. 6 0 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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AVOURING THE SLOW LIFE
at
SONEVA KIRI
Viewed from the cabin of the single-prop plane, Thailand’s eastern seaboard seems to stencil the horizon in green. The rest of the world is a wild blue expanse — water stretching endlessly in all directions, the shifting scales of the Gulf of Thailand. As the plane begins its descent, Koh Chang’s saw-toothed peaks come into view. A series of tiny emeraldhued rocks rise around its southern bend. Before long, Koh Kood emerges, an island lined with soft sugar sands and draped with deep, untainted jungle. The plane swoops around it, landing on a small narrow runway carved into a nearby island, where a speedboat and a few white-clad butlers await disembarking passengers. This is Soneva Kiri by Six Senses’ introduction, its welcoming committee waiting patiently to escort guests to a tropical Shangri-La. The resort occupies a palm-speckled flatland kissed by a turquoise bay on Koh Kood, Thailand’s fourth largest, but perhaps least developed, island. A 90-minute private plane ride from Bangkok — or, alternatively, a one-hour speedboat ride from Trat — is central to Soneva Kiri’s founding commitment to natural, nonpareil luxury.
art & culture photofeature
BY MASON FLORENCE
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fter deplaning, visitors are ushered by boat to the resort’s inimitable grounds, the short speedboat ride from the airstrip generating a sense of anticipation. There, they drop their shoes in a canvas bag, symbolically freeing themselves from the shackles of everyday life. Thirty-six pool villas, ranging from one to six bedrooms, encompass some of Asia’s most spacious accommodation. Each has its own free-form pool looking out over a bright white beach. An open-air theatre, known as “Cinema Paradiso,” a riff on the Tornatore classic, screens classics at night across a lagoon, where guests nibble on gourmet snacks in the embrace of plush cushions. Personal butlers, dubbed “Mr or Ms Friday,” race around the villas, catering to every beck and call. These, the standard amenities, effect pure Elysian peace.
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hile luxury and pampering and jaw-dropping facilities abound, the resort’s credo captures the ideals of the slow life — no news, no shoes, as they say. Moreover, there’s a driving belief in supporting sustainable practices. Soneva Kiri is integrated with the local community. Guests are encouraged to go on bike rides through rubber plantations to fishing villages. Chefs use local honey and seafood caught offshore in their dishes — dishes best savoured in a treetop dining pod, to which servers deliver fresh feasts from a zip line. Children are invited to have meaningful exchanges with local students on the island. A trained marine biologist offers snorkelling and diving tours, and the resort, itself, is partnered with Plant a Tree Today, a foundation that promotes the restoration of the rainforest. The CSR philosophy promotes wellness of the mind, body, and soul of all living things.
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oneva Kiri draws not only couples in search of romantic getaways, but also families looking to unplug and reconnect with one another. Aside from the obvious appeal of the beaches and pools, kids are catered to with The Den, a bamboo playground crafted to resemble a manta ray. Dedicated child minders interact with one- to five-year-olds, offering fun, hands-on activities with an educational bent. Kids learn to play Thai instruments, wander jungle-like bamboo structures, and immerse themselves in the local world, going on guided walks through the forest or visiting schools. Older kids can go on excursions with their parents, including father and son fishing trips or mother and daughter spa treatments; the whole family can enjoy cooking classes and private sunset cruises. Amid moments of self-reflection and exploration, guests might wonder where the journey leads from Soneva Kiri. The answer might be across the border, to the ruins of Angkor in Cambodia. The resort offers twice-weekly private flights to Siem Reap, adding a sensational dimension to already luxurious expeditions. The plane flies low, taking in the full view of Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains and red-and-green terrestrial dichotomy. The journey and the destination blend into one.
RED WINE BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS AT THE GARDENS OF DINSOR PALACE , SEE P74
7 0 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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AROY NUEVO TO THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
Following its raucous grand opening last month, Casa Azul is already winning the hearts of Soi Ari’s discerning clientele with fresh drinks, authentic Mexican fare (fish tacos, mole, tamales — you name it), and a cool blue interior decked out in Frida Kahlo portraits and sugar skulls. To find it, walk to the end of Soi Ari, about a hundred metres past Salt. Visit facebook.com/casaazulbkk for more information.
SUMMER IN THE CITY
Up & Above at the Okura Prestige is serving a new range of summer pasta dishes throughout July. Feast on dishes like lasagne made with Maine lobster, yellow beetroot, passion fruit, and cacao; pappardelle lamb ragout with zucchini and aubergine salsa; and egg yolk ricotta ravioli with roasted tomatoes, parmesan foam, and spinach salad in truffle dressing. Prices start at B380++. For more information and reservations, please call 0 2687 9000 or email upandabove@okurabangkok.com.
BEATS, BBQ, AND A BRIGHT, BLUE POOL
Make every Sunday a fun day in July at Sofitel So’s The Water Club. Running from noon until 4pm, the weekly pool session bridges a barbecue buffet, free flow beer and soft drinks, and beats spun by the resident DJ. The price to chill out by the pool with good food and drinks is B900++ per adult and B450++ per child aged 5-11. For more information, please email H6835@sofitel.com or call 0 2624 0000.
SIZZLING SCALINI
There’s a fresh new look to the à la carte menu at Scalini. The chefs are using the finest seasonal ingredients and local produce to make a menu that balances the high temperatures of Thailand’s hot season. Thought lighter in taste and texture, the new dishes still come packed with fresh Italian flavour. For reservations, please call 0 2649 6666 or email bkksu.info@hilton.com.
TAILORED TARTARE
Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant at the Pullman G is going raw for the month of July. The chef has prepared six special versions of the classic tartare, including the likes of Italian sea bream, Poire Papillion Wagyu, and Thai Canadian lobster. To try them all, please email scarlettbkk@randblab.com or call 09 6860 7990.
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J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 7 1
FOOD & DRIN K
meal deals
SINK YOUR TEETH INTO SEAFOOD CENTARA GRAND AND BANGKOK CONVENTION CENTRE AT CENTRALWORLD 999/99 Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 6255 | centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/cgcw Indulge in Ginger’s seafood market, where a variety of fresh delicacies form a brilliant new buffet dinner every Friday and Saturday night. Dive in to tiger prawns, river prawns, octopus, mussels, clams, and even sushi-grade tuna caught off the coast of the Maldives. The price for the buffet is B1899 per person, and for only B1 more you can enjoy free flow draft beer.
NATURE’S BOUNTY LIT BANGKOK HOTEL 36/1 Soi Kasemsan 1, Rama 1 Rd | 0 2612 3456 | litbangkok.com Experience extraordinary Thai dishes with tropical fruits as the star ingredients, either à la carte or through a four-course set menu, at B850++ per person. Highlights include seared scallops served with fruit salad; massaman curry with river prawns, lychee, peach, and pear; and deep-fried crab cakes with rambutan and water chestnuts, served with tamarind sauce.
WANT SOME WAGYU? EASTIN GRAND SATHORN BANGKOK 33/1 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2210 8100 | eastingrandsathorn.com Throughout July, Luce invites you to chow down on their innovative meat menus. Chef Eduardo and his team are offering a range of dishes created from premium Wagyu, including warm Wagyu rump carpaccio with a porcini and truffle sauce, sous-vide short ribs served with Gorgonzola sauce and potato ravioli, and a perfectly grilled Wagyu ribeye steak served with caramelized onions and red wine sauce.
FRESH FUSION FROM THE SEA CENTARA WATERGATE PAVILLION HOTEL BANGKOK 567 Ratchaprarop Rd | 02 625 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com/cwb Throughout July, enjoy a bounty of fresh seafood at Chili Hip, Centara Watergate Pavillion’s sultry rooftop restaurant. Executive Chef Surapot Inthato has created a range of Thai fusion dishes from fresh seafood, such as pan-fried sea bass topped with tiger prawns and New Zealand mussels and spicy clams with tomato sauce.
WILD FOR WAGYU AT PANORAMA CROWNE PLAZA BANGKOK LUMPINI PARK 952 Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplaza.com From July 20 to August 1, the world’s finest Wagyu hits the buffet at Panorama, with a range of delicacies titled Darling Downs Wagyu, Wagyhu 1824, and Kobe. The buffet costs B1200++ from Sunday to Thursday and B1800++ on Friday and Saturday. You can also enjoy a special Wagyu tasting menu along with great cocktails and wines at Finishing Post, the sky-high bar next door.
BON APPETIT FOR BRUNCH ORIENTAL RESIDENCE BANGKOK 110 Wireless Rd | 0 2125 9000 | oriental-residence.com Fill up every Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 4pm at Café Claire. The luxurious weekend brunch is a foodie’s dream, with its fresh seafood tower, ratatouille omelettes, eggs in meurette sauce, house-made pancakes, and Tournedos Rossini. Also available are an array of drinks, including the Ramos Fizz, the Pick-Me-Up, and everyone’s favourite brunch-time booze, the Bloody Mary. 7 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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SHUFFLE - The New American Approach The setup feels sort of Lower East Side: a postindustrial brasserie serving New American dishes executed by a Thai chef named Nick. The mishmash of cultures and styles seems right at home, though. The Big Apple doesn’t just meet the Big Mango — it takes the red eye, stops in for ribs and beer, and tags the wall on its way out the door. It’s a fusion capable of surviving the whims of culinary trends. At Shuffle, at least for a night, a little slice of Bangkok becomes the Bowery. Shuffle has been around for a couple of years, its cherry-red signage pointing southeast from the second floor of Rain Hill on Sukhumvit. It’s a warm, exposed place, the interior filled out with lots of burnished metal and glass. Light bulbs in iron cages, a steel-gray bar, paper placemats decorated with pen drawings reminiscent of the Gilded Age — the décor lends it a steampunk vibe. The dishes are mostly meat-centric, but not overwhelmingly so, and the greens come fresh and dressed, often accompanied by pork, as they are in a roasted eggplant and bacon salad (B230). The starter pairs the limp, smoked vegetable with three slices of pan-fried strips, a soft-boiled egg, and sprouts varnished with vinaigrette. The warm, earthy flavours warm up the palate for more assertive combinations to come — like, for instance, piquant lobster soup (B290). This pumpkincoloured bisque hides a late-burning kick in its spicebangkok101.com
crusted croutons and chunk lobster. Nick finishes it with a drizzle of cream, the richness offering a pleasant juxtaposition to the bitterness of IPA on draft. Not since Masaharu Morimoto last appeared on “Iron Chef” has a soy-ginger glaze been used to such dazzling effect as it is on the grilled black cod (B420). The saltsweet coating seals in the cod’s buttery juices, which, when taken with a piece of sautéed broccolini, a fried shallot, and a wild mushroom or two, pop like fireworks. The fish is, quite simply, fantastic. The star of the menu, however, is also the least pretentious: a pork chop (B450), bone-in, cooked medium. This striking, paprika-rubbed specimen rests on jus-laced mashed potatoes, a couple of glazed carrots at its side. It isn’t ground-breaking; just executed impeccably. For dessert, a chocolate tart comes de-constructed, with a crescent crisp dissecting in it, a dollop of lemon custard on top, and a cloud of whipped cream to the side. This last memento is suffused with Manhattan’s spirit, going heavy on textural contrasts to give the dining experience some verve.
SHUFFLE 777 Rain Hill, Sukhumvit 47, Fl 2 | 0 2261 6992 facebook.com/shufflerestaurant | daily 4.30pm-11pm
J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 7 3
FOOD & DRIN K
review
THE GARDENS - A Feast fit for a Palace The Gardens of Dinsor Palace, to give the restaurant located between Sukhumvit 59 and 61 its full name, is set in a two-story colonial house that was once the home of a minor princess. Modern and chic in its décor, it nevertheless incorporates parquet flooring, teak wood doors, and oil paintings. Here there is a bakery and café comfortably appointed with retro vintage furniture, an indoor dining area and bar lit by huge windows, and spacious private dining facilities on the second floor. The restaurant’s kitchen is under the experienced culinary eye of Executive Chef Autumn McTaggart. The Seattle native uses imported and local ingredients, some of which are grown out back in the outlet’s own hydroponics vegetable garden, to produce modern dishes with a distinct French influence. But before you dine, head to the bar where a daily happy hour between 5pm and 8pm offers by-one-get-one-free cocktail promotions and discounts on draft beers. Start your meal with Salmon Cake with Poached Egg and Hollandaise Sauce (B220). The cake features a lovely fresh hit of dill which counterbalances the richness of the sauce. Also excellent as a starter is the Garden Green Salad (B290) with chunks of salmon. The crunchy greens are home-grown and the salad is given a zesty lift with lemon purée and sweet-yet-tart balsamic vinaigrette. 74 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
For a hearty main course, try Roast Rack of Lamb Chops (B790). The tender pink Australian lamb is served with baby carrots and sautéed potatoes and garnished with rosemary and caramelized onion for sweetness that cuts through the rich jus. Another favourite is Red Wine Braised Beef Short Ribs (B570). Steeped overnight in a mélange of red wine, rosemary, and orange, the ribs are seared in a hot pan, finished in the oven, and then topped with beef gravy reduced to a luscious, velvety consistency. For an epicurean finish, go for a slice of Peanut Butter, Toffee, and Chocolate Mercury Cake (B140). The bittersweet flavours of salted caramel, meringue, nougat, and chocolate are beautifully juxtaposed by a crunchy paste of home-blended peanut butter. Finally, take time to visit the verdant grounds. Here you’ll find shaded arbours in which to sip coffee or a glass of wine from the restaurant’s list of Old and New World labels. While you do that, the kids can enjoy a romp around the gardens, which are home to fluffy white rabbits, Indian peacocks, and beautiful swans that glide on a small pond. Palatial indeed.
THE GARDENS OF DINSOR PALACE 1217/2 Sukhumvit Rd, between Soi 59 and 61 | 0 2714 2112 thegardenspalace.com | daily 8am-2.30pm, dinner 5pm
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review
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GINGER - A Bountiful Buffet of East Asian Specialties If there were a heart of this Gulliver’s world, Ginger just might own it. On the 24th floor of the Centara Grand at CentralWorld, a massive hotel married to an even more massive shopping complex, the views unimpeded by neighbouring towers, it doesn’t get more downtown than it does from this dazzling perch. Here, Ginger has transformed its buffet concept to offer fresh features that match its lofty heights. While still embracing the juxtaposition of fire and water found in its namesake plant, as well as the Japanese and Chinese cuisines on which the restaurant rests its reputation, the evening fare has narrowed in scope, but expanded in variety, giving reason to visit more often. Each night of the week features an exclusive specialty. On Monday, the chef serves black cod steamed with ginger and soy, a Chinese treat (B1699). The next night, it’s a Hong Kong-style beef filet cooked with fresh capsicum (B1699). Wednesday brings lobster baked with bacon and glass noodles (B1999), and Thursday is miso-glazed foie gras (B1899), a pleasant saltsweet spin on the decadent European spread. Friday and Saturday deliver a brand-new deal dubbed the “seafood market.” Guests can choose from a veritable ocean of seafood for B1899: tiger prawns, slipper lobsters, octopus, mussels, clams, a rainbow of fish, including sushi-grade tuna from the Maldives — if it lives underwater, it’s probably available, all-you-can-eat bangkok101.com
and made to order: steamed, grilled, stir-fried, or, in the case of the tuna, sashimi. It all comes with a bit of a show. The chefs work in open kitchens, allowing guests to get up-close and personal with their food. It’s an interactive element that elevates the experience. Beyond the night’s highlights, Ginger offers a spread of East Asian dishes and a solid selection of desserts. Filled out with high windows, lots of bamboo, and wood frames set in straight, asymmetrical lines, the Asian influences are palpable. They extend to the rest of the smorgasbord, too. Teppanyaki, fresh sushi and sashimi, and rich chicken curries represent the Japanese islands, while roasted duck, barbecued pork, and dim sum round out the buffet with a taste of mainland China. The teppanyaki, salmon in particular, could stand alone. It’s light and tender, cooked fast and brought to the table with sauces of garlic- and scallion-laced soy and whipped mayonnaise. To every meal, free flow draft beer can be added for B1 extra; there’s also wine, tea, and sake available. From Monday to Saturday, Ginger’s twist has added a splash of excitement to the dinnertime buffet.
GINGER Level 24, Centara Grand at CentralWorld | 0 2100 6255 centralhotelsresorts.com | daily 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm
J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 7 5
FOOD & DRIN K
review
ITALICS - Old, New, Bold, and True Pizza, pasta, and tiramisu are not hard to find in Bangkok. Artisanal goods imported straight from Nonna’s kitchen stock pantries far and wide. Rarely, though, is Italian food in the capital actually made from Thai-grown produce and local products. Italics bucks the norm, using ingredients sourced directly from Thai farmers and foodie entrepreneurs to create its own intriguing take on Italian classics. Open since April, Italics has started quietly, focusing on quality over quantity. Located on Soi Ruamrudee, the restaurant is the first to set up in a space that will be shared with a bar boasting what is rumoured to be the largest whiskey collection in Bangkok. The eclectic menu is the brainchild of James Noble, a Michelin-decorated chef, who proclaims, “It’s a mix of dishes I’d like to eat.” Interesting combinations abound, including pork belly, sitting atop a seared watermelon steak and served with tangy balsamic jelly (B320), and the “Raw and Pure” appetiser (B380); its flavours, textures, and presentation are simply genius. Thin slices of beef, served on a wooden platter, topped with chilli oil caviar and fresh oysters still redolent with brine — an unusual, but decadent, starter. Of the mains, the coffee-braised beef short rib (B695) stands out. Tender pulled beef, surrounded by gnocchi cooked in duck fat, rests on a bed of sautéed garlic spinach. Flash-frying gives the gnocchi a crisp exterior, 7 6 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
the perfect foil to the soft, sweet beef (coffee and beef are a wonderful couple) and the hearty wilted greens. More traditional fare peppers the menu, as well, each with a white or red wine partner waiting to help carry their flavours. Slow-braised beef penne (B420), covered in a potent Sambuca peppercorn sauce kept in check by grated parmesan cheese and fresh rocket on the side, is complemented by a glass of Monsoon Valley Shiraz, an easily drinkable wine from the Hua Hin hills. Apart from Thai wines, other thirst-quenchers include house-crafted cocktails and fresh juices. The after-dinner brandy and cognac choices will surely please purists. Like butter is to bread, good coffee is indispensable to Italian dining, and Italics makes one high-quality cup of joe. Desserts are a work-in-progress. The options promise interesting flavour combinations, although certain elements have not yet come together. The lemon tart doesn’t quite have the pop it needs, and some cheesecakes lack ideal lightness. But, if the mains and appetisers are any indication, they will round into shape soon, and localconscious Italics will wow with its tastes of il Bel Paese.
ITALICS 63/3 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2253 2410 italicsrestaurant.com | daily 8am-11pm
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review
DON GIOVANNI - A Sophisticated Take on Classic Italian Cuisine Dinner begins with the interlude. As the pianist plays a concerto, the chairs are pulled back, their legs sliding along the surface of the black and cream marble floor. The parties are seated, the chairs now pushed in, and Chef Stefano Zaninelli, the Milanese mastermind of the kitchen at Don Giovanni, pays a visit. His sense of humour is as redolent of his Italian upbringing as his dishes are. “I never eat foie gras,” he says with a laugh, “that’s why I keep people around me: to try my food.” Although a veteran of the foreign circuit, Zaninelli’s concept rarely strays from traditional Italian. The menu is full of home-style recipes. Along with the neo-classical décor, the chef’s culinary approach lends Don Giovanni a decorous air befitting its operatic name. It’s a shame that the chef doesn’t like foie gras; it means he never enjoys his own, and he certainly knows how to cook it. A starter of pan-fried foie gras on wild mushrooms, topped with grilled Williams pears and a bouquet of rocket, covered with a Marsala wine and truffle sauce reduction (B850), is luscious, awash in a medley of juices. With its richness cut by the fruit’s sugar and acid, the dish remains on the lighter side of decadence. The foie gras kick continues as the menu eases into mains. Handmade half-moon ravioli, filled with summer truffle and potato concasse, and topped with pan-fried foie 7 8 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
gras, Parmesan, and brown butter (B580), marries sharp and robust elements in a pocket of pasta bound by similar textures. The ingredients in the filling complement one another, but the foie gras, again, is the centrepiece. Zaninelli has more up his sleeve than duck pâté, however. Squid ink risotto, coal black in hue and fringed with dollops of tomato basil sauce, a bed for pan-seared calamari and king prawns, (B760), brings the flavours of Naples to the fore. It’s a simple dish. The rice has the perfect bite, and the fresh brine of the seafood speaks for itself. Though less Italian than French, the pan-roasted Australian beef tenderloin topped with grilled tiger prawn (B1400) provides an interesting take on the surf and turf combination. One look is enough to make mouths water; a bite confirms the optimism. Underneath the succulent meat lie sautéed root vegetables and rosemary potatoes with morel sauce, a rare treat. Tiramisu served in a cappuccino cup (B180) offers a twist at the end of a meal: it features dark chocolate rather than cocoa. As elegant as the surroundings, it’s a proper send-off.
DON GIOVANNI Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd 0 2541 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | closed on Sundays
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ocean tower ii ground floor, sukhumvit 21 soi 3 (end of sukhumvit soi 19) klongtoey nua, wattana bangkok 10110 reservation@maverickbangkok.com 02 665 2772
maverickbangkok.com SAVOUR OUR LATEST CREATION: AUSTRALIAN BLACK ANGUS STRIPLOIN / RISOTTO DUMPLING / FINE RATATOUILLE FOR YOUR DINING PLEASURE UNTIL JULY PREPARED BY CHEF CHRISTIAN AND HIS TEAM!
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opening hours lunch: mon-fri 11.30–14.30 dinner: mon-sat 17.30–23.00 sunday: closed
SHUFFLE IS EXTENDING ITS HOURS TO BETTER SERVE OUR CUSTOMERS. STARTING ON WED, 1ST OF JULY, NEW RESTAURANT HOURS WILL BE MON (CLOSED), TUE-FRI (11:30AM-10:00PM) SAT-SUN (9:00AM-2:00PM). START YOUR WEEKEND WITH AN ENERGY BOOST FROM OUR BRUNCH, SERVED DURING 9:00AM-2:00PM
FOOD & DRIN K
san pellegrino recommends FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S. PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. Sanpellegrino Asia| sanpellegrino@sanpellegrino.com.sg Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
ENOTECA
ENOTECA Sukhumvit Soi 29 0 2258 4386 enotecabangkok.com daily, 6pm-midnight
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The gates look unimposing, the rock wall incongruous among the rain-stained townhouses in the soi. Behind them hide a small garden, lit up by dandelion-shape bulbs, and a path leading to a country house. Enoteca, translated as “wine library,” but more accurately described as a tavern, announces its intentions from the moment of first impression. Enoteca is Italian, through and through, from flattened Vigna Vecchia bottles nailed to the brick wall to antipasti hung up like Christmas lights. Once the home of purely rustic, traditional fare, under the guidance of a young, new chef named Marco, the menu has recently incorporated modern styles. This slight shift in philosophy is best explored through the Gran Gourmet Degustation Menu (B2900). After the amuse bouche, the meal sets froth with starters that embody the chef’s bravado: Parmesan and truffle ice cream, a riff on cold cheese and crackers; foie gras kebab with beetroot ketchup; a fake tomato made from burrata and ricotta that resembles the texture and taste of lasagne; and a velvety soup of green pea cream with crispy pork cheek. From the first bite to the last, the noshes send diners on a journey, moving swiftly from salty to sweet, from silken to crunchy. Contrasts, in other words — that’s the trend of the times, and it’s what Enoteca has embraced, triumphantly. Down the line comes a classic vitello tonnato, prepared in a way that changes its dynamics. The veal is wrapped around a spoonful of tuna in mayonnaise sauce and topped with house-made pickles. Then, a tortelloni stuffed with a molten mascarpone and tomato combo and speckled with aged guanciale and vanilla oil. The flavours of the tortelloni, when eaten in one bite, flow smoothly like a movie on fast-forward, from one scene to the next. A similar sensation arises from the Risotto Acquarello al Roccaverano, which introduces sharp goat cheese, hazelnut oil, thyme, and lemon pearls — the surprise element — into the rice. The fresh burst of citrus follows in a cod served with wilted spinach and lemon cream; in this dish, it levels out the saltiness of the wafer-crisp fish skin. Before dessert, as the menu nears its end, a house favourite hits the table: lamb rack roasted in rosemary and thyme — which, in fact, are still smoking when served — paired with puréed eggplant and roasted mushrooms, tomato, and Italian baby potatoes. The sweet surge of the tomato, the smoke-filled medallions, the dichotomy of lightness and depth: it all explains why this place remains filled on any given night. bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRIN K
in the kitchen
CARLOS ANTONIO BRAVO TORRES talks to Matt Wilde
Señor Pico, the Mexican restaurant at the Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok, is eerily quiet when I arrive mid-afternoon to meet with Chef Carlos Antonio Bravo Torres. But then I hear a noise in a far corner and there find the 26-year-old native of Mexico City quietly tucking into a late lunch of pad krapow. “I love Thai food,” he beams. “I’ve been in Thailand for a year and I’ve been deeply impressed with the cuisine, and I still have lots more to try. Equally, I think Thais have an affinity for Mexican food. As with Thai cuisine, Mexican cooking makes use of fresh produce that offer sweet and sour flavours and, of course, the heat of chili peppers.” The many Thai patrons seen on any given evening at the popular restaurant attest to this. They are frequently joined by staff from the Mexican embassy looking for an authentic taste of home in the form of traditionally prepared ceviche, enchiladas, quesadillas, fajitas, and burritos. Today Chef Carlos, who learned his craft at technical college, where he took courses including the study of preHispanic Mexican food, is preparing a chicken chimichanga. “It’s a Mexican staple,” he explains. “In essence it’s a burrito, except that it’s finished off in the deep fryer. In the early days, chimichangas and burritos were considered food for the working classes, comparable to pizza in Italy, but we aim to elevate them to a higher form.” The dish comprises refried beans, cubes of chicken, and Mexican rice flavoured with a classic pico de gallo — salsa made of tomato, coriander, jalapeños, and habañero peppers — cheddar and mozzarella cheese, and cream, all wrapped in a locally made flour tortilla. 8 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
Chef Carlos puts two frying pans on the burner to heat. In one he mixes rice and a generous spoonful of the piquant sauce. While this warms, he lightly fries cubes of tender chicken in the other pan. After four or five minutes, he removes the pans and lets them rest while he lays out a large tortilla on a wooden board and, intriguingly, cuts a long piece of string. Next he spreads a large spoonful of refried bean paste in the centre of the tortilla, followed by a thick layer of the warmed rice and fried chicken. To this he adds more of the pico de gallo and a large dollop of fresh cream. “Now comes the fiddly bit,” he says with a laugh as he deftly rolls the tortilla around the filling, tucking in the ends to form a sealed envelope, and ties the ensemble with the string (a bit like dressing a joint of meat prior to roasting). The chimichanga is then deep-fried in very hot oil for three or four minutes. While this is happening, Chef Carlos prepares a serving plate with a garnish of shredded lettuce and dips of cheddar and habañero salsa and some sour cream. The chimichanga is then plated and served dressed with more grated cheddar, salsa, and coriander. The result is a vibrant one-meal dish that combines a crisp crunch from the fried tortilla with the creamy textures of the filling. It is satisfying and rich, full of tangy flavour, but not overpowering, with a lovely lingering bite from the chili.
SEÑOR PICO AT REMBRANDT HOTEL BANGKOK 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | Open daily from 5pm-midnight (Sunday brunch from 11am-2.30pm)
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street eats
FOOD & DRIN K
eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
BAMEE KUA
I
n three generations of the Kua family, their restaurant, Bamee Kua, has moved three times: from a space behind a cinema in Ratchawong, now long gone; to the Gaysorn neighbourhood; and finally to its current location, in Lang Suan. But amid all these moves, one thing has happily remained constant: the heart and soul of the cooking. Its oldest and most faithful fans have followed them with each migration, drawn to the original recipes. The Kuas are most famous for their hand-pulled noodles, which they make in the kitchen at the back of the restaurant, located in a Chinese shophouse where they also live. Their yellow egg noodles are outstanding; no other place can compare. The texture is soft yet al dente, and importantly there is no smell of flour or egg, the common handicap of inferior egg noodles. Their “e-mee” dish is famous: fried egg noodles with special Chinese sauce, made only by Aunty Ploensri. She will customize the taste — one serving per wok at a time. She produces each dish with meticulous care and never rushes the preparation. The noodles are topped with shredded ham and boiled, shredded chicken meat. This may sound a bit like kids’ food, but trust me: It’s a dish for everyone! The other key dish — also one of a kind — is “kouytiew moo sap kaeng kari,” or noodles with kari curry minced pork. This is wild and divine! The dish can come with handmade egg noodles, flat rice noodles, or small rice noodles with kari curry minced pork. The aroma of the kari curry will travel to the nose well before the dish lands on the table. I like my dish with egg noodles and a raw egg yolk on top. I make these ingredients happy by mixing them together nicely in the bowl, which produces a creamy texture that softens the powerful taste of the kari curry. I don’t fear the raw egg in this dish, and here’s why: I have eaten here so many times that I know from chatting with her that she cooks with considerable pride, governed
by a philosophy to provide only the best. I trust the quality and freshness of her ingredients. Her vinegar is 100-percent natural. It’s fermented nam tan sod, or palm juice, which comes from the same small family business that her grandfather used. She also uses her own salted cabbage, called tang chai, to impart a unique taste in her noodles. When it comes to the soups, her broth is not as exciting as the pulled-noodle dishes; it’s relatively bland, though healthful. Seasoning is largely up to the customer’s individual tastes. But I understand this approach: She doesn’t want to overpower the fresh ingredients. With every visit, I admire her more. The old is the new: be simple, delicious, and responsible, and maintain high quality.
Address: Bamee Kua is located on Soi Lang Suan, near Luxx Hotel. Opening hours: Monday-Saturday from 9 am-2 pm, though these hours can vary.The special dish “e-mee” is served on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Call ahead to be sure they’re open: 0 2251 6020.
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STILL SPARKLING S. Pellegrino’s Masterclass Explores Water, Wine, and the art of Tuscan Dining
T
housands of years ago, the hills of Tuscany gave its first great gift to the world. A natural spring was discovered high above the sea in Villa Panna, a small stopover in the Apennine Mountains. The pool brimmed with water so fresh a traveller could scoop it with their hands and drink up. Today, water from this spring is known widely as Acqua Panna, a subsidiary to the renowned S. Pellegrino brand. While oenophiles are no doubt familiar with wine tastings — and certainly wine and food pairings — many consumers remain in the dark to the concept of water, or water and wine, tastings. The Acqua Panna label, however, is working to change that dynamic. Its mineral water is packed with nuance, its heritage so important that it was awarded the right to wear the “Tuscany Taste” logo, confirming it as a regional product of excellence, a badge that previously only wine producers had earned. In June, to celebrate Acqua Panna’s 450th anniversary as well as its new label, experts from S. Pellegrino and Acqua Panna played host to a masterclass that explored the art of Tuscan dining and water tasting, held at Attico, the Radisson Blu’s sky-high Italian restaurant. Their mineral waters were paired with two classic Italian dishes specially prepared by Chef Alessandro Frau from Acqua and Chef Dario Busnelli from the host restaurant, Attico. Before the tasting got underway, the ambassadors provided a little background information on the rules of pairing. No element, they said, should stand above another. Water, wine, and food must work in harmony. They talked about the principles of tasting water. The
smooth, velvety texture of Acqua Panna requires it be served cold, never on ice or with a slice of lemon, which dilutes the quality of the product. Effervescent S. Pellegrino sparkling water should never be cut with still water. Just like wine, there’s a proper routine to follow: pour, taste, observe, smell, and taste. First on the day’s menu, Frau prepared Fiorentina steak to pair with S. Pellegrino’s sparkling waters. The scent of grilled meat and rosemary sprigs filled the air as the chef set to work in the open kitchen. After letting it rest, he sliced it with a surgeon’s precision, layering it on a stark white plate tattooed with his Acqua logo. In keeping with his modern style, Frau’s presentation was sleek, minimal, and well-conceived. The flavours burst on the tongue, brought to life by the partner water. Busnelli then took the stage, serving Cacciucco Livornese, which is more affectionately known as the Tuscan fishmonger’s seafood soup. Like Frau, the chef laid the sea’s bounty into a wide white bowl whose colour contrasted stewed tomatoes and the flank of whitefish at rest on the top of the soup. The spicy broth and seafood were elevated by the smooth characteristics and depth of Acqua Panna. Diners also enjoyed wines with their meals — a fine red Chianti Classico and a white from Tuscany. The vino helped present the similarities between wine and food, and water and food, pairings. Both are forms of art. They require nuance, attention, and practice, but the pleasure from tasting guides the appreciation, especially when supping water the quality of Acqua Panna and S. Pellegrino.
NOW OPEN B R E A K FA S T LUNCH-DINNER Silom Rd.
Narathiwas Rd.
Sathorn Soi 10
Chong Non-si Station
kai
Sathorn Soi 12
Abode
Sathorn Rd.
02-6353800 kainz@kai-bangkok.com
www.facebook.com/kainewzealand N E W Z E A L A N D M o d e r n Kiwi Cuisine
Deli•Cafe•Restaurant•Bar
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www.kai-bangkok.com
142/22-23 Sathorn Soi 12, Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500
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listings
AMERICAN BOURBON STREET BAR & GRILL 9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekamai | 0 2381 6801 | bourbonstbkk.com | 7am-1am A Cajun-Creole cut-out whose vast menu explores the patois of the Louisiana bayou and shines in dishes like crawfish étouffée, jambalaya, and barbeque ribs.
LITTLE BEAST 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13 | 0 2185 2670 | facebook.com/littlebeastbar | Tue-Sat 5.30pm1am, Sun 5.30-midnight | BB An intimate gastro-bar suited to grazing and glugging or a bit of both, featuring a menu of New American dishes, which are delicious and exotic twists on old world standbys (e.g. truffle fries).
MOULIN 88 Thong Lor Soi 5 | 0 2712 9348 | moulinsquare.com | 5.30pm-11pm, Fri-Sun also 5.30-11pm With a menu that shoots off in different directions, the lack of clearly identifiable theme may throw some diners, but the food — broadly defined as trendy New York fare — does not disappoint.
CHINESE
is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts.
THE MAYFLOWER Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm Authenticity is the name of the game. The menu here is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan.
XIN TIAN DI Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk. com | 11.30am-2.30pm; 6pm-10.30pm The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches, and a la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok.
FRENCH CHEZ PAPE 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2255 2492 | chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a French feast won’t be disappointed.
LIU 3F Conrad Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd | 0 2690 9999 | conradhotels3.hilton.com | 2pmmidnight A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes.
MEI JIANG The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2861 2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Widely regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants in town, Mei Jiang has built a loyal following for its dim sum, fresh classics, and behind-thescenes “Chef’s Table” concept.
SHANG PALACE 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com | 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum 8 6 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
CAFE RIVIERA 110/1 Soi Prasanmitr, first street on the right in Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2259 3033 | caferivierabkk.com | 11.30am-10pm A Parisian bistro set in the gullet of the bustling Soi Sukhumvit 23, serving tartare, cold cuts, carpaccio, duck, cheese, and more. Check the chalkboard for the daily specials.
J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN U Sathorn Bangkok, 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli | 0 2119 4888 | uhotelsresorts.com The classic cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day.
L’APPART 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi | 08 5924 1565 | sofitel.com | 7pm-midnight One of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse. Traditional cuisine charts an adventurous new course.
L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON MahaNakorn CUBE, 96 Narathiwas Ratchanakarin Rd | 0 2001 0698 | robuchonbangkok.com | Lunch 11.30am-12.30pm, Dinner 6.30pm-10.30pm The Michelin master’s swank and superexpensive Bangkok outlet serves Gallic food at its finest. Exactly the quality you would expect from Robuchon.
SAVELBERG LE BOEUF Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan | 093 971 8081 | leboeufgroup.com The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: high-quality steak liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core, this glass-enclosed venue on restaurant-rich Soi Langsuan does just a few things, but it does them all right. Steak and wine are like Dolce and Gabbana — it just seems wrong to have one without the other — and few other places in Bangkok offer steak of this pedigree with a glass of the good stuff for under B1000.
Ground floor, Oriental Residence, Wireless Rd | 0 2252 800 | facebook.com/savelbergth | open Mon-Sat, noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm French in flavour and elegance, but imbued with influences from the Netherlands, the food is befitting the chef’s Michelin pedigree. The ambiance is chic, making it a favourite among local condo-dwellers.
THE GLASS BANGKOK 8/8 Civic Horizon, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 0 2108 8982 | theglassbangkok.co.th | Sun-Thurs 11.30am-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-11pm Not everyone is a wine expert or familiar with French cuisine, but that’s where The Glass shines. The kitchen is consistent with its French classics, and guests can pick from wines they may have thought they would never try. bangkok101.com
listings INDIAN BAWARCHI Level B, InterContinental Chidlom, 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0383 | bawarchiindian. com | 11am-midnight The kind of curries you’ve been missing. Rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious.
CHARCOAL 5th flr Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit 11 | 08 9307 1111 | charcoalbkk.com | daily 6pm-11pm No sloppy curries swimming in ghee: only sophisticated interpretations of tandoorgrilled delicacies enjoyed by the Moghuls of old, and a unique selection of cocktails with intriguing Indian twists.
GAGGAN 68/1 Soi Langsuan | 0 2652 1700 | eatatgaggan. com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11.30pm A must-visit in the ever-growing fine dining scene, voted number one in the 2015 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Try one of the tasting menus to experience the breadth of progressive, molecular dishes available.
MAYA 29F Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 | Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2683 4888 | mayathailand.com | 5pm-1am A high-flying joint that contains more than a few surprises, from cocktails with Indian twists to food that marries ingredients unusual in Indian cuisine with classic manifestations from the Subcontinent.
RANG MAHAL 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm Meaning “palace of colours,” there sure is a courtly air about the place, down to the refined, delicate food. The proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs and curries come out.
INTERNATIONAL ABBOT Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2258 6250 | abbotbangkok.com | Mon-Fri 5pm-1am, Sat 11am-1am, Sun 11am-10pm Staking its reputation on fresh, seasonal California cuisine, leaning heavily on seafood dishes with zesty flavours, this airy eatery run by Bed Buzz delivers top-notch meals crafted by Chef Rene Micheleda. bangkok101.com
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CREPES & CO 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat.
EAT ME Soi Pipat 2, Silom | 0 2238 0931 | eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm-1am Run by the innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town.
ELEMENTS Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com | 6pm-10.30pm An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” translated as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into an a la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option.
FAT’R GUTZ Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2185 2373 | facebook.com/ Fat.R.Gutz | 11am-2am Trendy as trendy can be, this second sister to the original Fat Gutz serves spot-on fish and chips with panache, but don’t expect to enjoy a romantic dinner: Seenspace gets packed by 8pm.
HARVEST 24 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2262 0762, 09 7235 8286 | facebook.com/HARVESTrestaurantBKK | 5.30pm-12am Rustic to the core, this wood-decorated venue in Phrom Pong relies heavily on Italian influences and high-quality seafood, but the menu incorporates a touch of Spanish and French flair, as well.
HYDE & SEEK GF Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2168 5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am A superior gastro-bar that delivers in both drinks and food. The cocktails, in particular, draw a varied after-work crowd to the stools that surround the chunky bar.
KAI Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 3800 | kai-bangkok.com | Mon-Fri 9.30am-11.30pm, 8.30am-11.30pm J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 8 7
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This handsome eatery makes an impressive go of answering the question: What does “Kiwi cuisine” actually mean? It’s an appealing culinary destination in one of the city’s emerging food hubs.
MAD MOA 211/8 Lan Luang Intersection, Chakrapaddhipong Rd | 085 155 2601 | facebook.com/MadMoa | Tue and Sun 6pm11pm A four-table shophouse serving hearty Polynesian and American food, like burgers, bacon-wrapped hot dogs, and slow-cooked ribs, as well as fantastic locally brewed beer.
MAVERICK Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit 21 Soi 3 | 0 2665 2772 | maverickbkk.com | Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 5pm-11pm Modern European, drawing heavily from French and Spanish traditions, especially in the gourmet tapas. There are molecular touches throughout that complement rather than compete with the body of the dish.
MINIBAR CAFÉ 5F Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2160 5610 | facebook.com/MinibarRoyale | 6.30pm-12am A modified version of the modern New York bistro whose pleasant ambiance is staked on good food, laughter, conversation, and music, because these elements help make meals memorable.
MOKO 71/2 Sathorn Soi 10 | 0 2635 3673 | facebook. com/MokoRestaurant | 8am-10.30pm, closed Tuesday Breakfast is what this place does best (think elevated bacon, eggs, and sausage), but the lunch-focused menus are worth a trip in their own right. Either way, start with a well-executed Bloody Mary.
MONDO GF Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | 7am-11pm Styled after popular neighbourhood salumerias (delis) and formaggerias (cheese shops) found on street corners throughout Italy. The food here is bitesized and meant to be shared.
MOODZ 308 Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2170 8440 | facebook.com/moodzthailand | 5pm-Midnight 8 8 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
With a menu that riffs on modern European cuisines, leaning heavily on Italian for inspiration, this blue-and-gold beauty is a fine addition to Thong Lo’s urban dining scene.
PANORAMA Crowne Plaza Lumpini Park | Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk.com | Noon2pm, 6pm-10.30pm Serves breakfast and lunch, but the dinner buffet really has tongues wagging. The buffet changes every few months, from Mexican to Japanese, from Brazilian “Samba San” to a fresh seafood bounty.
PARK SOCIETY Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com | 5pm1am (bar), 6pm-10pm The menu changes daily, according to available produce, and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items. Think oysters, Hokkaido scallops, and Aran Valley caviar. Has a lovely wine list.
QUINCE Sukhumvit Soi 45 | 0 2662 4478 | quincebangkok.com | 11.30am-late Serves straightforward food: farmhouse presentation, not too many flavours, focusing on quality ingredients and letting it fly. The chef buys sustainable goods — local, when possible — and changes the menu frequently.
SAVELBERG Ground floor, Oriental Residence, Wireless Rd | 0 2252 8001 | facebook.com/savelbergth | Mon-Sat 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm Run by Dutch chef Henk Savelberg, whose previous ventures have earned Michelin acclaim. Expectations are — and should be — high. Rest assured, the food here keeps the palate piqued and attitude satisfied.
SEVEN SPOONS 22 Chakkrapatipong Rd | 0 2629 9214, 08 4539 1819 | sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress.com | Mon 11am-3pm, Tue-Sat 11am-12am, Sun 6pm-12am Hard to go wrong with any meal you choose at this Lan Luang favourite, where freshness and attention to detail are the expectation. Vegetarian-friendly without denying meat-lovers.
SHEEPSHANK 47 Phra Arthit Rd | 0 2629 5165 | sheepshankpublichouse.com | Tues-Sun 6pmmidnight
A chalkboard announces specials while a one-page table menu keeps the decisionmaking pleasantly minimal. Fresh organic, fair-trade ingredients produce hearty flavours in grilled meats and seafood.
SIROCCO 63/F Tower Club at Lebua, Silom Rd | 0 2624 9550 | lebua.com/sirocco | 6pm-1am There’s no getting around the obvious — no matter how well-made the cocktails or impressive the modern European food may be, the view is undeniably the star of the show.
TABLES GRILL Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants, and the menu, billed as pan-European, takes full advantage of the theatre. As entertaining as it is satisfying.
THE DISTRICT Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | marriott.com | 6pm-11pm The name of the restaurant refers to New York’s meat packing district. That shines through in the menu as well as the impressive cocktails. The highlight at is the seafood. Lobster, prawns, oysters, scallops, crab — you name it.
THE KITCHEN TABLE 2/F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 | whotels.com/Bangkok | 9am10pm A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Good food and an ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles.
22 KITCHEN & BAR 946 Thanon Rama IV | 0 2200 9000 | dusit. com | Bar 4pm-Midnight, Dinner 6pm-10pm Impeccable meals from the Pacific Rim, bridging Peruvian, West Coast American, Japanese, and Taiwanese cuisine. Led by the exuberant, innovative Nikolas Ramirez, this restaurant is one not to miss.
ITALIAN APPIA 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2261 2056 | appiabangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6.30pm-11pm bangkok101.com
listings Amazing Roman-style cuisine that, to the benefit of diners, is limited to a small menu. Extremely popular, and with good reason.
CICCHETTI Groove at Central World, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd | 0 2516 5514 | centralworld.co.th/groove | 10am-11.30pm A brightly lit Italian restaurant specialising in smaller plates designed to be shared, mixed, and matched.
DIVINO
authentic flavours of the Veneto. Has a magnificent wine cellar, too.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 | labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm A relaxed, welcoming space with indooroutdoor seating. Chef Luca updates the menu regularly and orders produce from Italy every fortnight. It’s all rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion.
LENZI
Penny’s Balcony, Thong Lor Soi 16 | 0 2714 8723 | divinobkk.com | 5pm-midnight, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm Enough variety to keep customers who just fancy a bottle of wine and platters to share happy, but the main courses raise the stakes in a way that concept-driven places can’t. It’s hard to recall pasta being this exciting.
Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen, Ruam Rudee Soi 2 | 0 2001 0116 | lenzibangkok.com | Lunch 11.45-2pm, Dinner 6pm-10.45pm Many ingredients sourced from the chef’s native Tuscany — including fresh white truffles, hams, and salami. It just doesn’t get much more Italian than this in Bangkok.
ENOTECA ITALIANA BANGKOK
27/1 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2119 7677 | peppinabkk.com | 11am-3pm, 6.30pm-12am, closed on Monday Quite possibly the best pizza in the city, and at reasonable prices to boot — a welcome and much-lauded addition to the upper crust of the dining scene.
39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 | 0 2258 4386 | enotecabangkok.com | 6pm-midnight Unabashed traditional Italian, rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, cured meats, and salami on the countertop. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and a la carte and degustation menus to explore.
GARIBALDI’S Somserset Lake Point Tower A, 41 Sukhumvit 16 | 0 2262 0835 | garibaldisbangkok.com | open daily Featuring cuisines running the length of the Mediterranean, the most memorable dishes nevertheless return to the restaurant’s Italian roots, dishes filled with energy and flair.
IL BOLOGNESE 139/3 Sathorn Tai Soi 7 | 0 2286 8805 | ilbolognesebangkok.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11pm It shouts “tradition” from floor to ceiling. Cold cuts and cheese, wooden wine racks and wood-fired pizza: original recipes meet high-quality ingredients here, and the results always satisfy.
JOJO The St Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2207 7777 | stregis.com/bangkok | noon3pm, 6pm-11pm One of the few outlets proudly flying the flag for Venetian fare, with ingredients imported from the region conjuring bangkok101.com
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PEPPINA
ROSSINI’S Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2653 0333 | sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 6pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The menu has lots of modern touches that reimagine traditional Italian styles. Also has more reasonable wine prices than many restaurants in this bracket, promising “top shelf wines at cellar prices.”
SENSI Narathiwat Soi 17 (Yaek 5) | 0 2117 1618 | facebook.com/sensibangkok | Mon-Sat 6pmmidnight Intense flavours spun from fresh produce, complemented by sophisticated reductions and emulsions. The interplay between rich and zesty, complexity and lightness, results in amazing creations.
SCALINI Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists. A solid choice for downtown dining. J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 8 9
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SOLE MIO Thong Lor Soi 21 | 0 2185 2199 | solemiobkk. com | 11.30am-11.30pm Laid back and casual, unlike other Italian places in the city, it has a large selection of excellent pizzas and some of the best pastas in town.
JAPANESE ABOVE ELEVEN 33F Frasers Suite Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am The pioneer of Bangkok’s Nikkei cuisine, a Peruvian-Japanese fusion. Start with a pisco sour before checking out the menu, which also features Japanese dishes. Plates are served to share and portions are generous.
GENJI GF Swissotel Nai Lert Park, 2 Wireless Rd | 0 2655 4265 | genji-restaurant.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm A Bangkok institution for more than 30 years, where presentation is crucial to the overall effect. Top-quality and wellexecuted Japanese cuisine.
HAMA-ICHI Legacy Suites, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 29, Klongtoey-Nua | 0 2662 3376 | facebook.com/ hamaichibangkok | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight, Sun 4pm-11pm Almost 300 dishes. Dive right in to tempura, seared salmon, wasabi-paired sashimi, and a number of hotpots, dining side-by-side with salarymen at the long bar or in private at one of the tables sectioned off by bamboo screens.
KAGUYA
TORO SUSHI
The Third Place Building, 137 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2714 9974 | facebook.com/ kaguyagastrobar | 5.30pm-1am; Sat-Sun 11am-2pm These guys take cocktails seriously. The food presents a more complex equation. The best dishes are also the most conceptually coherent. Japanese ox tongue cooked sous vide? Yes, please.
SHINTORI Level 18, Zen World, Zen Department Stores | 0 2100 9000 | shintoribangkok.com | 5.30pm-late If you’re looking for a feast of Japanese cuisine that impresses on all fronts, it’s worth forking out some cash for a meal here, as the combination of a thrilling setting and exciting food is still hard to find in this town.
TAIHEI 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm There’s a real commitment to quality leading the charge at Taihei. The food is beautiful, and it tastes great, to boot. Honest-to-goodness Japanese served from atmospheric heights: what’s not to love?
TEN-SUI 33 Soi Sukhumvit 16 | 08 8540 1001 | tensui. co | 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok, but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience than at Ten-Sui. It’s worth noting that this place is high-end, with prices to match.
No.88 in soi connecting Thong Lor 5 to 9, Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2712 8447 | facebook.com/ torofreshsushi | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm Rather old-fashioned, there’s nothing fancy about this place —in a city where style often strong-arms substance, that’s part of its charm. Reservations are recommended if you want to sit at a table instead of the sushi bar.
YTSB 3F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd | 0 2309 3939 | facebook.com/YTSB.BKK | 6pm-11pm The name is short for “Yellow Tail Sushi Bar,” which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. It isn’t all about the yellowtail, though — there’s real variety on the menu.
YUUTARO Fl 5, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloenchit Rd | 0 2160 5880-1 | yuutaro.com | daily 11am10.30pm Raw food stars at this second branch of the Thong Lo institution. Sushi and sashimi — toro, engawa, uni, and hotate, a staggering ninety percent of the seafood is flown in from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, providing the freshest taste in town.
ZIPANGU 28/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 0 2651 2180 | facebook.com/TheZipangu | 6am-2am With its creative sushi rolls and traditional Japanese fare accompanyied by more than twenty different kinds of sake, Zipangu is one of the city’s most consistent options for izakaya-style dining.
New restaurant Open NOW
Café Riviera First “French Riviera” Cuisine in Asia We are proud to present you the first restaurant in Thailand offering cuisine from France’s famed Riviera (Monaco, Nice, Cannes and St Tropez). Savor a mix of French, Italian, and Mediterranean food, dishes that are all healthy, fresh, and colorful. Enjoy the taste of the French Riviera without leaving Bangkok.
FIRST-TIME VISITORS GET A SPECIAL GLASS OF RED WINE - FREE! Farcis Nicois from Nice B190+ Foie Gras “Torchon” B290+ Nicoise salad, Monegasque salad B210+ Pizza Bella Nissa B250+ Skirt beef steak & Polenta French fries B290+ Tropezienne Tart B190+ Vanilla cake soufflé B210+ More…. Open daily for dinner 6pm-10pm, Open for lunch only Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm Reservations: 095 049 5705, 02 259 3033
www.caferivierabkk.com Sukhumvit Road Soi 23, first street on the right
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listings MIDDLE EASTERN ARABESQUE 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2656 9440 | facebook.com/ arabesquerestaurantbangkokthailand | 11am2am The menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures. As well as dishes that fans of Middle Eastern cuisine will notice, such as hummus, moussaka and tagine (clay pot stews), it includes some they probably won’t.
BEIRUT Sukhumvit Soi 2, Ploenchit Center | 0 2656 7377 | beirut-restaurant.com | 10am-10pm A Bangkok classic serving classic Lebanese dishes at reasonable prices. The hummus and falafel are praiseworthy.
SHAHRAZAD 6/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1| 0 2251 3666 | 9am-3am The grand old dame of Middle Eastern dining, where the baba ghanoush is just as excellent as the grilled lamb leg. The cuisine spans the Middle East, with a nod to Iranian. Authentic and recommended.
MEXICAN EL DIABLO’S BURRITOS 330 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2259 4140 | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11.30am-11pm The enormous burritos are the stars of the show. They make their own tortillas on the premises, too. The tacos are particularly impressive. The salsa and toppings are light, refreshing, with just enough spice.
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MÉJICO 2nd floor, Groove@CentralWorld | 0 2252 6660 | mejico.asia | 11am-12am The menu tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
SEÑOR PICO 1F Rembrandt Hotel 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk | 5pm-1am Nowhere else in town are there dishes such as aguachile de camarón, common in Mexico but practically unknown elsewhere. More familiar fare like tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and enchiladas are found on the menu, too.
TACOS Y SALSA 49 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 08 6346 0822, 08 6346 0822 | tacosnsalsa.com | Daily 3pm-12am A brightly-coloured haunt operating in a Sukhumvit shophouse, decorated with the owner’s own artwork, serving up authentic Mexican food and bang-on margaritas. This is a great spot to satisfy any Mexican cravings.
SEAFOOD RAW BAR 440/9 Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2713 8335 | facebook. com/TheRawBarBKK | Mon-Fri 5.30pm-12am, Sat-Sun 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-12am Oysters, tartare, carpaccio, ceviche: it’s all raw here, and it’s all very good. A nice low-key spot to shuck some shellfish and hang out with friends.
FOOD & DRIN K
SEAFOOD MARKET AND RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit Soi 24, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2261 2071-5, 0 2661 1252-9, 0 2259 6580-1 | seafood.co.th | 11.30am-11.30pm Fresh, high-quality seafood in the heart of the city. The interior is aquarium-like, making it a fun place for dinner with family and friends. There’s also tons of local and imported seafood for sale.
SNAPPER 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2651 1098 | snapper-bangkok.com | Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight Don’t expect a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients, but rather simple preparation rounded out with elegant presentation. One of the best fish and chips in Bangkok resides here.
THE OYSTER BAR 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 | 0 2212 4809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know a restaurant takes seafood seriously when several pages of the menu are devoted entirely to oysters. Big appetites should try the seafood platter: a pile of oysters, scallops, shrimp, crab, caviar, and more.
SPANISH EL CHIRINGUITO 221 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd | 08 6340 4791 | facebook.com/elchiringuitobangkok | Thu-Sat 6pm-12am On the surface, a tapas bar. Small dishes and high-quality alcohol, a space filled
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listings
with antiques: it’s an implant from Madrid dropped neatly into the Bangkok beehive.
BARCELONA GAUDÍ Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2661 7410 | barcelona-thai.com | Tue-Sun 11am11pm The chef and founding partners are proud of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows in the incredible tapas on the menu, from prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the traditional Sunday paella.
STEAK & BURGER BURGER FACTORY 3 Soi Ekkamai 10 | 0 2714 4249 | facebook. com/theburgerfactory | Sun-Thu 11.30am11pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-midnight This place serves some of the most consistently good hamburgers in the city, and they come with a healthy range of haute toppings, from caramelized onions to imported cheese. Wash your choice down with a vanilla milkshake and seal the deal with some curly fries.
FIREPLACE GRILL InterContinental Bangkok 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0444 ext.5505 | Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6.30pm-10.30pm This perennial favourite has all the attributes you’d expect in a renowned steakhouse, not least a superb selection of aged and chilled cuts from some of Australia’s top meat producers.
HAMILTON’S STEAK HOUSE 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2 | 0 2656 9440 | arabesquebkk.com | 11am-2am
Hamilton’s provides an undeniably pleasant spot to sit down for a few glasses of wine over lunch. Though steak is its bread and butter, this place puts together a surprisingly interesting seafood selection, as well.
NEW YORK STYLE STEAK & BURGER 28 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2262 0920 | nysteakandburger.com | 11am-11pm It’s all about freshness. The burgers are ground each morning. Vegetables are sourced from the Royal Project in Chiang Mai. Crunchy buns are ordered from Maison Jean Philippe.
PRIME Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 6pm-11pm Some of the best flame-grilled steaks in the city are now abetted by highquality seafood. It’s a welcome dose of sophistication, and it befits the restaurant’s sweeping views over the Chao Phraya.
THE U.S. STEAKHOUSE 156-158 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 08 7993 3527 | theussteakhouse.com | Tue-Sat 4pm-10.30pm Start with a big bowl of chunky, homemade clam chowder before moving on to the main attraction: flame-broiled steaks, including New York strip loin, rib eye, filet mignon, and Australian T-bone.
THAI BASIL 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit | 0 2649 8366 | basilbangkok.com | Sun-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6pm-10.30pm
The menu features a glittering array of Thai favourites — it’s not over-the-top in innovation, but there isn’t a false note, either. Comfort food taken to a new plane.
BENJARONG Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 6pm-10pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The Dusit Thani’s signature Thai restaurant offers inventive dishes from the Kingdom’s annals, from north to south.
BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 | blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, the flagship sits in a gorgeous old mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish.
BO.LAN 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | 0 2260 2962 | bolan. co.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-10.30pm Authentic, but daring, Thai food at one of the top restaurants in Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this place is so popular year after year.
CHON The Siam hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd | 0 2206 6999 | thesiamhotel.com | 12.pm-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm Sits in one of three beautifully preserved wooden houses. A small home-style menu offers food worth returning for. Nice for a romantic evening.
SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit soi 24 (Kasame), Sukhumvit Rd., Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 THAILAND Tel. 02 661 1252-9, 02 259 6580-1 Fax. 02 261 2073 Email. globalmarketing@seafood.co.th
www.seafood.co.th
RESERVATION Tel. 02 261 2071-5 9 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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listings JIM THOMPSON HOUSE AND MUSEUM 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | 0 2612 3601 | jimthompson.com | Noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm The city’s number-two tourist attraction is home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous setting with surprisingly unusual Thai food. Factor in the generous happy hours, and there’s no reason to be sniffy about the place.
KRUA APSORN Dinso Rd | 02 685 4531| kruaapsorn.com | Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm Quintessential Thai food served in a lowkey shophouse in the old town. There’s a reason this place is so beloved by locals.
PASTE 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2392 4313 | pastebangkok.com | Tue-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late A triumph, delivering with exceptional panache and serving a riff on modern Thai food that is not just instantly gratifying, but also truly memorable.
PRAI RAYA 59 Sukhumvit 8 (BTS Nana)| 0 2253 5556 | facebook.com/PraiRayaSukhumvit8 | daily 10.30am-10.30pm If you think Southern dishes are nothing more than heat and more heat, Prai Raya begs to differ. The food here balances spice and subtle flavours to perfection, delivering a taste of Phuket with grace.
RUEN URAI The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd | 0 2266 8268 | ruen-urai.com | Noon-11pm Set in the former residence of the herbal
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medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients.
SALA RATTANAKOSIN BANGKOK 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 0 2231 2588 | salarattanakosin.com | 7am-10pm Thanks to the vistas, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. The menu offers comfort food and a few Euro items, too. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass.
SIAM WISDOM 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2260 7811 | siamwisdomcuisine.com | Noon-2.30pm, 8pm-10.30pm Expertly refined flavours separated with elegance and delivered with brio. As the name suggests, Siam Wisdom delivers the best kind of culinary education.
SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2714 7708 | soulfoodmahanakorn.com | 6pm-Midnight Run by an American food writer turned chef, this tiny Thong Lo establishment serves some of the most authentic Thai food in the city and is a sure bet for a great meal.
TALING PLING 25 Sukhumvit Soi 34 | 0 2258 5308 | talingpling.com |11am-10pm Taling Pling has a handful of branches in town, all slightly different in theme. At this outlet, you might feel as though you’ve walked into the Mad Hatter’s Tea party, and the menu varies from curries to neighbourhood nosh.
FOOD & DRIN K
THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953 | facebook.com/ TheNeverEndingSummer | Tue-Sun 11am-11pm Located in Thonburi, occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers an extensive, changing menu inspired by the favourite childhood dishes of one of the owners.
THE OWL 194/16-17 Ladprao Rd | 09 6016 2499 | theowlbkk.com | 5pm-12pm A three-story bar-bistro offering Lad Phrao a refined spin on the local cantina. There’s delicious Thai food to be shared, wellcrafted cocktails, and a warm ambiance that lends itself to conversation.
VIETNAMESE SAIGON RECIPE 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2662 6311 | saigon-recipe.com | 11am-3pm, 5am10pm The well-designed dishes here reward closer inspection, as flavours reveal themselves in prescribed order. The portions are perfect for sharing.
XUAN MAI 351/3 Thong Lo | 0 2185 2619 | xuanmairestaurant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30 There’s some overlap with Thai food in the ingredients and flavours, but the exquisite combinations at this much-loved shophouse are subtle and more complex than many Thai dishes. A Thong Lor stand-out.
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NIGHTLIFE MELBOURNE MELODIES
After welcoming Henry Fong and J-Trick in the last two months, ONYX wraps up its Melbourne Bounce Series with two up-and-coming Aussie DJs, Uberjak’d and Krunk, on July 2. Both are making waves on the international music scene, with Uberjak’d having collaborated with Deorro and Fatboy Slim and Krunk making the rounds at festivals like Stereosonic. The party starts at 10pm and lasts until late. Tickets are B500, which includes one free Bacardi Breezer.
LOVE IT LIVE
On July 10, EPIC Entertainment presents Jewelz & Sparks at Live RCA. The newest club in the party complex has hit the ground running, and bringing in the rising DJ-producer duo from Germany adds to its early prestige. Their minimalist style has struck a chord with global DJs, having already been added to the rotation of big names like Fedde Le Grand, David Guetta, Nicky Romero, and Hardwell. The doors open at 9pm, with DJ Peppers hitting the decks first.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, LEVELS
July 8 is a very special night for one young club. Levels turns threeyears-old this month. To celebrate, it’s putting on a mystery-themed night, starting at 11pm and ending late. Expect spontaneity and variety in the club’s posh digs, as the house band, V5, performs their new set. Eight days later, at 9pm on July 16, the club plays host to Hook N Sling, the Australian DJ best known for his top track “Take You Higher.”
THE NINETIES ARE NEW AGAIN
Lace up your Nike Air 95s and head over to The Beer Cap for its Throw Back Thursdays, nights of 90s hip-hop spun by some of Bangkok’s brightest DJs, including DJ Tob (Bangkok Invaders), G Matthew Hammond, and DJ Tech 12. When Cosmic Café closed, some wondered whether underground and indie music would be represented in RCA again. The Beer Cap has slid neatly into the shuttered club’s place and picked up the slack, all while offering delicious beers. The party starts at 9pm and entry is free.
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review
REVOLUCION COCKTAIL - The Shanghai Revolution Goes South -
G
ood music, shared food, strong drinks, and great company are the foundation of Latin America’s carefree social life. Parties are encouraged. Fun is paramount, dancing to infectious beats a necessity. It’s an irresistible combination. Enter Revolucion Cocktail, a vibrant, energetic bar, celebrating Cuban culture, set in a growing dining and drinking destination, Sathorn Soi 10. What began as a bartending and mixology school in China quickly expanded to include its own bar. With colourful interiors, exotic Latin-Caribbean sounds, and mix-masters blending boozy creations, the Revolucion Cocktail concept became a smash hit in Shanghai, Guangzhou, and Xiamen. Judging from its initial reception in Bangkok, this venue is set to do the same. Three townhouses have been converted into one multistory building. The owners plan to build a restaurant on the second level. The third floor is earmarked, at least for the time being, as a possible location for cocktail classes, giving lessons to the city’s aspiring Joseph Boroskis. Dim lighting and a long bar welcome the post-work crowd. Bartenders shake, strain, and pour against the backdrop of over 500 different spirits. Che Guevara watches over the late night proceedings amid vivid posters and mismatching lamps. Clever lighting brings out the colours of Cuba, the festive feel heightened by Latin beats. The menu is a mix of well-known favourites with a
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couple of twists. The G&G (B300), a popular choice, is a heady mix of Beefeater gin, fresh grapefruit, grapefruit syrup, and tonic water. The Lemon Tart (B400) is served still frothing. The tequila, lemon, and sugar make the tongue tingle. Order the signature Revolucion Cocktail (B340) and you’ll find your hand wrapped around a mythical figure — served in a tiki mug, the bar’s namesake is a punch of fresh rosemary, Diplomático Añejo rum, passion fruit, apple juice, and simple syrup. A small, Latin American-inspired sharing menu is available. Each dish is designed to complement the drinks. Generous, colourful, and inexpensive, their flavours are fresh and fierce. The shrimp ceviche (B220) combines sweetcorn puree with shrimp marinated in coconut, lime, and coriander root; it’s served with a piquant jalapeño, fresh avocado, and mango salsa. Other nice noshes include patatas bravas (B150) and Revolucion Calamares (B150), both of which pair well with the potent drinks. In true Latin style, there are parties every night. Monday is devoted to F&B pros. On Saturday, the venue hosts hot DJs. Best of all? Revolucion Cocktail is just getting started.
REVOLUCION COCKTAIL 50 Soi Suksawittaya, Sathorn | 0 2635 3533 Facebook.com/pages/revolucion-cocktail-bangkok
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bawarchithailand
Chidlom
Sathorn Sukhumvit Soi 11 Sukhumvit Soi 4
Bawarchi Chidlom President Tower Arcade ( Intercontinental Bangkok B - Level, 973, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2656 0102 - 3
Bawarchi Sathorn
Indian - Thai Chambers of Commerce, 13 Sathorn Soi 1,Thungmahamek, Sathorn Road, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2677 6249
bawarchi_Indian
bawarchibangkok
Gurgaon
Bhubaneswar
Chandigarh
Bawarchi Sukhumvit 4 Bawarchi Sukhumvit 11 Bawarchi Myanmar 20/11 Sukhumvit Soi 4, Khlongtoey, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : + 66 2656 7357
(F/ 1-3 Ambassador Hotel) Sukhumvit Soi 11, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2253 2394
No . 37 Level 1 , La Pyayt Wun Plaza , Alan Pya Pagoda Road ,Dagon Township, Yangon , Myanmar Tel : 09253500002 / 03
Yangon
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listings
BARS BADMOTEL 331/4-5 Soi Thong Lor | 0 2712 7288 | 5pm1am | facebook.com/badmotel | 5pm-1am A three-floor joint minimally decorated and painted bright white, the ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined garden make a pleasant spot to sip on the venue’s “Creation Cocktails.”
BEERVAULT Sukhumvit Soi 15, in the FourPoints by Sheraton | 0 2309 3255 | beervaultbangkok. com | 3pm-12am A comfy ground-floor bar that’s a solid choice for local and European beers on draft, but better for bottles, of which there are 97 varieties.
THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB Sukhumvit 22 | 08 7000 0795, 08 0733 8438 | fgc.in.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm A member’s only place where guests are always welcome, screening films in a tiny cinema on the second floor and serving reasonably priced drinks on the first.
HOUSE OF BEERS Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 | 0 2392 3513 | houseofbeers.com | 11ammidnight This Belgian-leaning bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapasstyle bar snacks.
BREW
CHEAP CHARLIE’S
CRAFT Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 3320, 08 1919 5349 | craftbangkok.com | 2pm-12am Serving craft beer on draft in all its glory, this outdoor patio-bar plays host to food trucks each weekend, spins good tunes, and, most importantly, operates over 40 taps.
COYOTE’S Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2651 3313 | coyotebangkok.com | daily 12pm-2am Olé! A long-standing Mexican restaurant/ bar, where the margaritas flow like water, especially during ladies’ night, and the meals always satisfy.
DARK BAR Ekkamai 10, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2381 9896, 09 0528 4646 | facebook.com/darkbarbangkok | Wed, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am A tiny and, well, dark bar serving beer and booze at cheap prices. It’s popular with hipsters and counter-culturists. 9 8 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
MIKKELLER 26 Ekkamai Soi 10 Yaek 2 | 0 2381 9891 | mikkellerbangkok.com | 5pm-12am An enclave for beer geeks, distinguished by its many dozens of taps and lush garden. A sure bet for anyone in search of a good — and hard-to-find — craft beer.
MOOSE Ekamai Soi 21 | 0 2108 9550 | facebook.com/ moosebangkok | Mon-Sat 6pm-2am A retro-inspired hipster bar decorated with flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads, giving it a living room-esque ambience. A preferred venue for all manner of underground DJ sets and live shows.
Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 0 2185 2366 | brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am See and be seen at this cool Thong Lo vanguard with well-stocked fridges and a healthy list of foreign beer and cider on tap. A beer-lover’s dream.
Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2253 4648 | cheapcharliesresort.com | Mon-Sat 5pmmidnight A no-brainer meet-up spot drawing crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists inthe-know who fill up on cheap beers and gin and tonics before heading off to party.
J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY Near Soi Thonglor A secret bar built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his whims. In Thong Lo, somewhere on an oddnumbered single-digit soi. Open every evening, if you can find it.
SMALLS 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1 | 09 5585 1398 | Wed-Mon 8.30pm-2am Decorated with vintage furniture and quirky art to give it a light Bohemian feel, Smalls offers a wide selection of beers, wines by the glass and hardto-find liquors such as Basil Hayden’s Bourbon Whiskey. Spirits come in stout New York-style 45-cl servings rather than the anaemic European 30-cl pour commonly seen elsewhere in Bangkok. The playlist at Smalls tends to be non-commercial, with an emphasis on jazz and world music rather than hip-hop, house and techno. Occasionally it hosts visits by eclectic DJs like club veteran Justin Mills. The kitchen stays open until midnight (except on Tuesdays when the bar is closed), serving a well-conceived roster of entrees and bar snacks.
HYDE & SEEK 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2168 5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am A dead ringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Ian Kittichai heads the kitchen, and the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow.
NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST Silom Soi 7 | 0 2636 6622 | namsaah.com | 5pm-2am Set in a mansion that was once a soda bottling company’s office, the perfect place to enjoy intimate conversation with friends over cocktails.
SWAY Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10 | 0 2711 6052 | swaybkk.com | daily 6pm-2am Chicken wings, poutine, and ribs star on the menu, and craft beer on draft draw flocks of loyal beer drinkers.
THE ALCHEMIST 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 3549 2055 | thealchemistbkk.com | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight This stylish, stripped down drinking hole near Cheap Charlie’s draws its own loyal crowd, thanks to an excellent playlist on top of craft beer, assorted martinis, and some of the best mojitos in town.
VIVA AVIV River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 | vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Reminiscent of a hip bar along Singapore’s Clarke Quay, with bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade. Think tropical maritime meets dashes of outright whimsy. bangkok101.com
listings WHISGARS
HEAVEN
981 Silom Rd | 0 2661 3220 | whisgars.com | 2pm-2am Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of this rapidly expanding branch. Each outlet is a little different, but all cater to the finer things in life. Enjoy a slew of single malts, preferably a flight of them.
BARS WITH A VIEW ABOVE ELEVEN 33rd Fl Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack.
AMOROSA 4F Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd | 0 2221 9158 | arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails, and a showstopper of a view over the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun.
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OCTAVE 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 02-797-0000 facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back some of Octave’s punchy, refreshing cocktails. DJs spin house through the night, a style that fits nicely with the urbane aesthetic built up by the wooden features, light blue fixtures, and classy drinks that feature a respectable price tag. It often plays host to special parties, transcending the usual after-work modus operandi. In Thong Lo, it also offers a unique perspective of the skyline. Among the city’s scrum of rooftop bars, Octave is a sure bet.
20F Zen@Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com |MonSun 5.30pm-1am When the golden feature bar lights up like a metal sun, Zen feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital, serving up balanced cocktails with bite against a beautiful backdrop. Visit around sunset for a special show.
LONG TABLE 25F 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 0 2302 2557 | longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Known for its communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. Twenty-five floors up, you can glug signature cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of highflying Bangkok.
MOON BAR 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | 5pm-1am An icon among rooftop bars, offering 360-degree views of the urban sprawl in smart surroundings. The tasty drinks and unimpeded views make this as perfect a spot for honeymooners as it is for local lovers.
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listings
NEST 9th F, Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2305 4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5pm2am An urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of Le Fenix Hotel, laid-back on weekdays and early evenings, but rowdy on weekends, especially during special parties. Though it stands a little shorter than other rooftop bars, it’s still a star.
RED SKY 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | 6pm-1am The al fresco turret offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come — when daylight fades, a live jazz band kicks in and the city lights up like a circuit-board.
ST. REGIS BAR St Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2207 7777 | stregis.com | Mon-Fri 10am1am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am The rectangular venue eyes the Royal Bangkok Sports Club through a large plate-glass window, a lovely spot at sunset, even better on Sunday afternoons, when you can spy on horse races with a fine malt whiskey in hand.
THE SPEAKEASY Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts. Wines are available at solid prices, and cocktails include home-made vodka infusions.
THREE SIXTY Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am The only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, year round, setting a romantic mood as the first stars appear.
WALK 567 Rachaprarop Rd | 0 2625 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com/centara/cwb | 5pm-1am Named to reflect high-fashion ambitions, it’s sleek enough to resemble a runway. Sofas line the perimeter, attracting a young, chatty crowd. When it comes to the cocktails, prepare your tongues for the heat. 1 0 0 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
WOO BAR W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road | 0 2344 4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok | Sun-Wed 9am1am, Thu-Sat 9am-2am Chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release, or, better yet, a weekend party.
CLUBS FUNKY VILLA 225/9-10 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2711 6970 | facebook.com/funkyvillabkk | 8pm-2am Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to shake off the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs.
KU DÉ TA 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2108 2000 | kudeta.net | 6pm-late One of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. A snazzy LED “chandelier” hangs over the dance floor, twinkling in time with the music.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0382 | mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok | 10pm-late Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend a desert tent feel.
ONYX RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 08 1645 1166 | onyxbangkok.com | 8pm-2am An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. The kicker: a giant video screen looming over the DJ booth.
QUP 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2252 3274 | qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot (née Q Bar) well-known for pouring stiff drinks — there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka — and regular big-name international DJs. One of Bangkok’s most consistent clubs.
ROUTE 66 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | 0 2203 0936, 08 1440 9666 | route66club.com | 8pm-2am RCA’s longest surviving super-club, with three zones to explore, each with its own bar, look, and music policy. Crammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais.
SPASSO Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm- 2.30am A favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it’s a sedate Italian restaurant. After hours, it transforms into a club and cocktail bar and really hits its stride.
THE CLUB 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 0 2629 1010 | theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am In the middle of the backpacker ghetto, this techno castle lends a fairy-tale vibe, with lasers and UV lights harking back to mid-90s trance raves. The music is loud, a full range of four-to-the-floor beats and cranium-rattling techno.
TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2258 3758 | titaniumclub.com | 6pm-1.30am Congenial hostesses clad in ao dai; a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly; over 90 varieties of vodka. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.
PUBS BULLY’S Sukhumvit Rd, between soi 2 and 4 | 0 2656 4609 | facebook.com/bullysbkk | daily until late Big burgers and beer are the name of the game at this American-style pub. Spacious and stocked with pool tables and TVs.
FLANN O’BRIEN’S 2194 Charoenkrung 72-74 Rd, Asiatique| 0 2108 4005| flann-obriens.com | 3pm-12am A sweeping Irish-themed pub featuring daily drink specials, all-day breakfast menus, and live bands throughout the week.
GULLIVERS 2/2 Khao San Road | 0 2629 1988 | gulliverbangkok.com | 11am-2am A spacious club/bar at the corner of Khao San with plenty of affordable drinks, the... bangkok101.com
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listings
...place to go to end your night with no regrets (and wake up with plenty of them in the morning).
HANRAHAN’S 12/1 Sukhumvit 4 | 0 2255 0644 | hanrahansbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Over a decade old and still going strong, this three-floor Irish pub with a rooftop terrace adds a touch of sophistication to Sukhumvit Soi 4
THE AUSTRALIAN 37 Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2651 0800 | theaustralianbkk.com | 9am-late A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage.
THE DUBLINER 595/18-19 Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2204 1841-2 | thedublinerbangkok.com | daily 8am-12.30am Irish-themed and Irish-owned, this watering hole is preferred among expats for its generous happy hours and nighttime live music.
THE HUNTSMAN 138 Sukhumvit Rd (Landmark Hotel) | 0 2254 0404 | landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub | 11.30am-2am English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a famous Sunday roast.
THE PENALTY SPOT Sukhumvit Soi 29 | 0 2661 6164 | facebook. com/thepenaltyspot | 3pm-2am Cosy, atmospheric, the crowds forming mostly to watch live sports on TV and drink beer on draft.
THE PICKLED LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 7/1, opposite Maxim’s Hotel | 0 2651 1114 | thepickledliver.com | 3pm-late Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and more make this landmark pub, now in its second incarnation, a perennial favourite.
THE PINTSMAN 332 United Center Building, Silom Rd | 0 2234 2874 | facebook.com/thepintsman | 11am-late A basement bar in Silom serving pints of draft beer and big plates of food. The requisite pool tables and live entertainment get this place hopping on weekends.
THE ROBIN HOOD Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 3390 | robinhoodbangkok.com | 10am-12am 1 0 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
All the pub essentials are covered: live sports, a chatty atmosphere, wood features, pints of draft beer and cider, and copious drink deals. A great place to start your night (or afternoon).
THE ROYAL OAK 595/10 Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 1652 | royaloakthailand.com | 10am-1am An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions, draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes, among other forms of entertainment.
THE SPORTSMAN Sukhumvit Soi 13 (The Trendy Condo) | 0 2168 7242 | sportsbarbangkok.com | 8am2am With 26 high-definition TVs and eight projectors, this is the place to go for live sporting events. Of course, there’s beer, food, and bar games like billiards, too.
THE QUEEN VIC Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 7417 | queenvicbkk. com | 9am-1am An indoor-outdoor arrangement up the road from the pit that is Soi Cowboy, with a semi-circular bar serving standard cocktails, various draft beers, and substantial Western fare.
LIVE MUSIC APOTEKA 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 | apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom cocktails.
ADHERE THE 13TH 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) | 08 9769 4613 | 6pm-midnight One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals.
BAMBOO BAR The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 0 2659 9000 | mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz
band plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon.
BARSU 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2649 8358 | barsubangkok. com | 6pm-2am Informal yet sleek, featuring the tagline “eat, play, dance” and appealing to the over-30 Bangkok crowd with live bands each night of the week, spanning jazz, soul, hip hop, and R&B.
BROWN SUGAR 469 Phra Sumen Road | 08 9499 1378 | brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night.
CAFÉ TRIO G Floor, Portico Complex, 31 Soi Lang Suan | 0 2252 6929 | 6pm-1am, closed the 2nd and 4th Sun of the month One of the only bars worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Loved for its jazz and art, a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars.
CM2 LIVE JAM Ground Floor, Novotel Siam Square Soi 6 | 0 2209 8888 | novotelbkk.com/cm2-live-jam | Thu-Sat 7pm-12am A subterranean party cave that packs them in, especially on weekends, when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it.
FAT GUT’Z 264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 0 27149 832 | fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am This sleek saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people listening to live blues, indulging in carefully crafted cocktails, and drinking in the vague industrial-nautical theme.
MAGGIE CHOO’S Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd | 0 2635 6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos | Tue-Sun 6pm-2am The main decoration is the leggy cabaret girls, but the real attraction is the live jazz, some of the best the city has to offer. The atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. bangkok101.com
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PAULA AND BABY By Gaby Doman
S
tyle icons start young these days, with Suri Cruise, Blue Ivy Carter, and Harper Beckham paving the way for fashionable tots. Their secret? Well, apart from a team of stylists, an unimaginable bank balance, and a whole lot of pressure to always look adorable (nobody said it was easy to be a trendy toddler), these kids always dress for the occasion. Thankfully, most kids have a fairly limited range of social appointments, often revolving around some messy playtimes and some even messier parties. When it comes to dressing the part for these engagements, three factors are key: comfort, wash-ability, and cuteness. That’s where Paula and Baby comes in. This Thai-based brand offers a line of clothes that checks all the boxes. They’re adorable, simple, and easily washed when they, inevitably, get covered in mud, chocolate, and goodness knows what else. Sweet and sophisticated, the range includes candy-striped rompers, spotted a-line dresses, chino shorts, and relaxed tees. There’s no gaudy colours or crop tops here; a Paula and Baby kid is an effortlessly stylish one, indeed. These pretty dresses and too-cool-for-school sweatpants have the versatility to look great when they’re box fresh and charmingly cute when they’re smeared with cake and ice cream, too. Who couldn’t use a little more of those kinds of pieces in their wardrobe? And, whether your little ones opt for a day serenely playing, climbing all over the furniture in your home, or doing forward rolls in the mall and generally testing the wear and tear of both their wardrobe and your patience, this range will stand up to it. Best of all is the fact the pieces are so easy to mix and match. Classic colours and simple dresses, tees, and trousers mean you can put together an outfit Suri Cruise would throw a jealous, flailing tantrum over without having to devote too much time to its construction. A Paula and Baby kid is a little too cool for all that overthinking, after all.
Paula and Baby 44/11 Thonglor 13 Sukhumvit 55 Wattana Bangkok 10110 Instagram @Paulaandbaby paulaandbaby.com
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SHOPPING
unique boutique
TINT BICYCLE - Ride This Way -
BY PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA
B
angkok’s logjam of cars, buses, and motorcycles needs no introduction. The city has faced a traffic problem for decades. Recently, however, Bangkokians have become increasingly aware of the issue’s gravity. Through special events like Car Free Day, government agencies and local groups have encouraged residents to use alternative modes of transportation — foremost among them, bicycles. With their portability, light weight, and low cost, bicycles have become a popular choice for those who value keeping their environment and bodies in good shape. Avid biker Tew Rawipas Wetchapinan had noticed the growth of the cycling community in Bangkok. Bikes were his passion, and a culture was finally forming around them. The change inspired him and his friends to start a shop of their own, and TINT Bicycle was born. They believed in minimalism, in terms of both mechanical efficiency and style. — fewer trappings, one- or two-tone colour schemes, practical options for handlebars. The bicycles were simple, yet trendy and tailored to every owner. At TINT, customers can design their own ride. First, they choose from 22 different colours for the body, most of which are either pastel, although fancier options, including polka dots, are available, too. Then, they pick a colour for the tires, spokes, handlebars, and seat. There 1 0 6 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
are over 7000 possibilities in total, enough to cater to any personality under the sun, from sport fans to vintage lovers. “TINT is an art shop for bicycles. You can choose something that suits your identity,” says Tew. “It’s great for teenagers and young adults who like to express themselves through the products they use.” The gregarious co-owner sends riders out of his shop with more than high-quality bicycles: he also offers tips and advice. “Everyone should take a ride to Sanam Keaw [near Suvarnabhumi] and Suan Rot Fai,” he says. “And don’t forget to wear a helmet. Accidents happen.” Customers get six-month warranties on their bicycles. If there is a problem with it, they can return it to the shop and pick out another within seven days of purchase. TINT also provides bike repair services, and gurus are always nearby to answer bike-related questions. Bikes start at B6900 for flat handlebars and B7900 for drop bars. TINT also deals affordable accessories, such as helmets, flashlights, t-shirts, and fenders, which come in at under B1000 per item.
TINT BICYCLE Lad Prao Rd, between Soi 8 and Soi 10 09 8556 5388 | tintbicycle.com
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The Fine Art of Thai Cuisne Ruen Urai, “the House of Gold,” combines fine Thai culinary art with an elegant ambience. Inspired by Thailand’s diverse regions, cultures and lifestyles, our gastronomic creations vary from Royal Thai cuisine to refined home-cooking. Discover the secret oasis of Ruen Urai. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 Fax. (66) 2 266 8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
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treatment
I.SAWAN SPA - The Village in the Concrete Jungle BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
N
estled in a garden on 5th floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan, i.sawan offers a pause from the pace of the big city. As guests ease into this sanctuary, where beauty, wellness, and residential retreats are the rule, the beautiful chaos of the Erawan shrine and Rama I Road stir below. On this level is an array of facilities, including a fitness centre, swimming pool, beauty salon, spa, and even private villas and spa cottages for those in search of a memorable stay separate from the strictures of a city hotel. The spa treatments provide bespoke pampering experiences divided into four categories: Purity, Energy, Harmony, and Thai. Guests choose according to the result they wish to pursue, whether to detoxify, boost inner energy and skin, reduce stress, balance the body and mind, or promote total well-being through the art of Thai massage. To elevate the treatments, the spa imports premium products from brands such as June Jacobs and Comfort Zone, which leave skin looking radiant long after the therapy. Highly recommended is the signature “Essence of i.sawan” massage. It combines aromatherapy with Swedish and Thai massage to work out stress caused by long days at work, long flights, or even long games of pick-up football.
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The treatment begins with a foot scrub; then it’s the core massage. The therapist performs a medley of Swedish and Thai pressure techniques along the body’s meridians, which are pathways through which energy flows. The mild scent of warm oil refreshes the mind as the therapist works out kinks in muscles. Want to try it, but in a time crunch? No worries. This treatment comes in a variety of options — 60 min/B3200, 90 min/B4200, and 120 min/B4800 — a nice amenity for those on tight schedules. Men receive special treatment, too, with “Recommended for Him” packages. A standout is the “Bangkok Executive” massage (30 min/B1800). It targets specific areas to quickly relieve stress. Other packages include “Hot Stone Zen Massage” (90 min/B3900, 120 min/B4500), which helps to melt away muscle stiffness, and “Urban Detox” (60 min/B2900, 90 min/B3900, 120 min/B4500), which gets rid of the body’s toxins while treating tired muscles and mental exhaustion.
I.SAWAN SPA AT GRAND HYATT ERAWAN BANGKOK 494 Rajdamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 bangkok.grand.hyatt.com/hyatt/pure/spas/
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A Little TLC for Your Toddlers
M
ilk and sleep are not the only magic elixirs that will keep your babies calm and cool. In Bangkok, you can take your tiny tots to My Bebe Spa and treat them to a little slice of paradise. The spa has been exclusively designed to cater to newborns and toddlers. It’s a unique way for them to have fun while they build physical and mental skills in their formative tears. Sorry, mom and dad — there aren’t any packages for you here. Still, My Bebe promises to keep parents happy with the way their professionals coddle and nurture youngsters. Developed by experts, the hydrotherapy programmes strengthen muscles, the brain, and respiratory and digestive systems in children up to 24 months. With BeBe Swimming, little ones swim in warmwater spa tubs located within a temperature-controlled
room. They wear specially designed equipment that goes around the neck to keep them safe and help them float freely. The warm sensation of water on the feet relaxes children. This is a great way to get them some exercise that will help them sleep better at night. Another popular service for kids over three is the spa. Yes, a spa, like the one you might go to when you need to unwind. Programmes include body massage, facial treatments, manicures, and pedicures. There’s even a hair salon, which lets parents cuddle their kids as they get their first haircut, a convenient amenity for moms and dads with energetic little monkeys who like to jump off the chair while the hairdresser is hard at work. The infant massage, delivered by certificated therapists, comes with a nurturing touch that promotes healthy development of physical and mental well-being. Parents are encouraged to stay with their babies so that they can learn to perform massage on their kids at home. Older girls will love getting their nails cleaned, polished, and shaped. The most exciting part is picking a polish colour from the rainbow of available choices. The polish is non-toxic, kid-friendly, and made from organic ingredients. The boutique spa also provides a workshop/talk for moms-to-be, new moms, children, and babies. Clothes, healthy food, toys, books, and tons of accessories are on sale here, too. What’s not to love?
MY BEBE SPA 2nd floor Mille-Malle, 66/4 Sukhumvit Soi 20 0 260 8070 | mybebespa.co
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listings
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE THRONE HALL Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadamnoen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2216 7368 | jimthompsonhouse. com | 9am-5pm | B100/B50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 8185 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, Daily | B50/B20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd | 0 2281 1569 | Tue-Sun 9.30am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD PALACE Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 0 2245 4934 | suanpakkad.com | 9am4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden 1 1 0 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
SHRINES ERAWAN SHRINE Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | BTS Chit Lom | free Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | free A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | free If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM 85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) | Ratchaprarop Rd | 0 2245 3008 | bangkokdolls.com | Mon-Sat 8am-5pm Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals,
temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 0 2233 7027 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
MADAME TUSSAUDS 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2658 0060 | madametussauds.com/ Bangkok | 10am-9pm | B800/B600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe’s famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd | 0 2653 5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com | Mon-Fri 10am-4pm (App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it’s open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
MUSEUM OF SIAM 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier | 0 2622 2599 | ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates bangkok101.com
listings back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephantback with a canon, and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen. There are always new exhibitions to explore, and, of course, you can walk away with souvenirs from the gift shop.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 0 2224 1333 | thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 | no photo allowed Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam’s main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02621 0044 | nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri | 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hardto-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier | 0 2424 0004 | 9am-5pm | B30/ B100 photo/B200 video This collection of ornate royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. bangkok101.com
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN THAI FILM MUSEUM 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom | nfat.org | 0 2482 2013-15 | Sat-Sun | tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; Mon-Fri: by appointment | free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, props and costumes.
PARKS LUMPINI PARK Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Rd | 5am-9pm; cycling/skating 10am-3pm | free The biggest and most popular slice of public space in Central Bangkok, Lumpini Park is 142 acres of trees and grass swen together with wide, mendering concrete paths. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians like to take advantage of its relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. A surprising number of animals also like it here – from turtles and giant monitor lizards, to flocks of crows and the occasional stray cat. Activities include taking a Swan-shaped pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin and pumping iron at the outdoor gym, while live concert recitals and film screenings take place here during the cool season.
BENJASIRI PARK Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22/24 BTS Phrom Phong | 5am-9pm | free Next to the Phrom Phong BTS Skytrain station and Emporium shopping mall, this is a great place to escape the Sukhumvit rat race – amble around lakes, find shade under a tree, or admire modern Thai sculptures.
RAMA IX ROYAL PARK Sukhumvit Soi 103, behind Seri Center, Pravet | 0 2328 972 | 5.30pm-7pm | B10 Bangkok’s biggest park spans 200-acres and features a small museum dedicated to the King, set amongst pleasant
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botanical gardens with soothing water features.
SUAN ROD FAI PARK Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd, BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park | 0 2537 9221 | 5am-9pm Also just north of JJ market, this huge park has lots of open space and wild trees, plus a lotus pond, playground, basketball and tennis courts, and a butterfly garden (see opposite). Young locals flock here on weekends to hire a bike and cycle along its wide paths, and with prices for rental only B20 we highly recommend you copy them.
ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (SUAN SAMPRAM) 32 Phet Kasem Rd, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom | 0 3432 2544 | rosegardenriverside.com | 10am-4pm | Garden B50, Show B500 Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf court, spa organic farm and botanical gardens. The cultural shows here are as popular as the lush gardens.
SARANROM PARK Intersection of Rachini / Charoen Krung Rd, Phra Nakhon | 5am-8pm | free This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featuring a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion.
RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES EASY KART 31/11 RCA Plaza, Rama 9 Rd | 0 2203 1205 | easykart.net The biggest indoor go-kart track in Bangkok features a night light system, a computer time system, a panoramic bar and restaurant, and a big screen TV. Both beginners and experienced riders are welcome.
ELITE FIGHT CLUB The Waterford Diamond Tower, Sukhumvit 30/1 | 0 2305 6685 | elitefightclub.com This luxury gym and Muay Thai training facility, located in downtown Bangkok, offers both group and private classes in Muay Thai, boxing, and MMA. Facilities include a gym, swimming pool, saunas, J U LY 2 0 1 5 | 1 1 1
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listings
and Jacuzzis. Prices vary considerably depending on the package you choose.
FLOW HOUSE BANGKOK 120/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 0 2108 5210, 09 9083 8787 | flowhousebangkok.com A flowboarding action club set in the heart of Bangkok, Flow House draws amateur and advanced riders with its FlowRider — a thin sheet of water which flows over a slope to form of a perfect ocean wave. There’s also restaurants, retail shops, and a beach club for those who would rather hang out.
FOLLOW ME BIKE TOURS 126 Sathorn Soi 9 | 0 2286 5891 | followmebiketour.com Experience the “real” Bangkok and see the city’s hidden side by bicycle. The tours let you discover your own Bangkok. You can join tours that examine the city’s history or culinary heritage, day or night, or check out the jungle at Phra Pradaeng.
LE CORDON BLEU DUSIT CULINARY SCHOOL
946 The Dusit Thani Building, Rama IV Road, Silom | 0 2237 8877 | lecordonbleudusit.com The renowned global chain Le Cordon Bleu has added a luxurious element to Bangkok’s culinary academia. The school offers a range of cooking programmes for tweens, teens, and adults, giving lessons on international, French, and Thai cuisines, as well as desserts and pastries.
PEPPERMINT BIKE PARK Soi Yothinpattana 3 | 09 0980 1368 | facebook. com/PeppermintBikePark This newly opened bike park located at the outskirts of Bangkok offers urbanites a safe environment to cycle within a paved two-kilometre track, including a wooden bridge, a curved path, and a few rolling slopes. Annual membership is available at B200. On top of that, for members entrance costs B100 during the day and B150 at night; for non-members, it’s B150 at day and B200 at night.
PLANET SCUBA BANGKOK 66 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2261 4412-3 | planetscuba.net
Having won numerous awards over the years for excellence in teaching standards and diver safety, Planet Scuba has become the one of Thailand’s leading diving centres. The Bangkok branch offers diving courses for beginners up to dive instructors. Diving equipment is sold here, too.
THE JOSEPH BOROSKI BAR & HOSPITALITY SCHOOL BANGKOK Thonglor | 0 2712 6025 | josephboroski.com Learn how to craft cocktails from the master himself, Joseph Boroski, who teaches from the one hundred-plus mixes in his own recipe book. Spread across a few specially designed training stations, the classes cater to absolute beginners as well as professionals.
THE RINK ICE ARENA CENTRAL WORLD CentralWorld, 999 Ratchadamri Rd | 08 1875 1212 | therink-icearena.com Lace up those blades and channel your inner Johnny Weir at this rink in the middle of Bangkok’s biggest shopping centre.
SAFARI WORLD
99 Panyaintra Rd, Samwatawantok, Klongsamwa | 0 2914 4100-19 |safariworld.com | daily 9am-5pm On the outskirts of Bangkok, the sprawling Safari World offers days of family fun. The area is divided into two zones. The first is Safari Park, through which tourists can drive their cars or ride coaches to encounter rare and endangered animals at very close distances. Kids, especially, love to marvel at the hundreds of animals from around the world who live in the park: lions, tigers, giraffes, rhinos, you name it. The second zone, Marine Park, is home to a vast species of animals, not all from the sea. Here, exquisite shows put on by trained professionals involve dolphins, orangutans, sea lions, birds, and more. Another option is to take a “jungle cruise” and explore the lush worlds of Africa and Asia, with the added appeal of animatronics and special effects. It’s not all animals, either. Other entertainment includes a cowboy show and the “Spy War” stunt show. All these activities and performances make Safari World much more than just a zoo. 1 1 2 | J U LY 2 0 1 5
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