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Publisher’s Letter
hailand is a country that embraces sports—from the historic martial arts traditions of Muay Thai, to the fervor for the traditional Southeast Asian sport of sepak takraw (that game you’ve probably seen being played on the city side streets where a wicker ball gets kicked back and forth over a volleyball net). In more recent years Thais have become mad for English Premier League football, and when Leicester City FC—a Thai-owned team—recently won the UK championship, the fans here went nuts! But Thailand has many top athletes of its own to brag about, including Ratchanok ‘May’ Intanon, one of the world’s top ranked badminton players, whom we meet on page 14. Meanwhile, for local sport and fitness enthusiasts we profile some of Bangkok’s best sports facilities, yoga studios, running clubs, and sports-related vacation spots. We even profile a pair of the city’s niche market sports bars. Of course we cover lots of non-sports related material in this issue, as well, including a review of Timothy Hallinan’s novel King Maybe (page 60), a special report on Singapore’s new National Gallery (page 62), and a beautiful photo feature from Bangkok-based Japanese artist Soichiro Shimizu (page 66). We also profile many new Bangkok restaurants—as well as some old favourites that warrant a second look—and in our nightlife section we’ve added a new live music feature (page 96). Finally, in our expanded lifestyle section we look at the skateboarder chic of Preduce boutique (page 109), and the sporty streetstyle of Kraftka’s customized sneakers (page 110). All this and more—including our Bangkok 101 archive and Enjoy. extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader Mason Florence feel there’s something we’re not Publisher covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.
What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
JUNE 2016 | 5
CONTENTS 16
CITY PULSE
52
10 Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in and around Bangkok. 14 16 20 24
My Bangkok Interview with Ratchanok ‘May’ Intanon, Thailand’s No. 1 badminton player and this year’s Olympic hopeful. Best of BKK Bangkok offers sports junkies a bit of everything—from tennis to trampolines, and everything in-between.
62
Out & About Explore Bangkok’s backstreets each and every Thursday with the infamous Hash House Harriers. On the Block The Asok intersection may be a traffic nightmare, but it’s an oasis for sports-minded city slickers.
28 Property Profile Check in and check out the elegant Anantara Siam Bangkok hotel
TRAVEL 42 Travel Updates
SNAPSHOTS 30 Tom’s Two Satangs Good manners are always a welcome thing
44 Upcountry Now Performances, special events, and festivals taking place throughout Thailand
32 Joe’s Bangkok How vintage night markets are taking over the city
46 Upcountry Escape Kitesurfing in Hua Hin really “takes off”
34 Bizarre Thailand Shark fin soup gets a “thumbs down” in SE Asia
50 Weekend Getaway Healthy holidays at Thanyapura Sports Hotel in Phuket
36 Very Thai Betting on beetles, buffaloes, and fighting fish
52 Over the Border Endurance tested on Mt. Kailash climb in Tibet
38 40
Heritage: Historic Bangkok Sports stadiums with architectural panache Making Merit: Yogatique Yoga studio gives to local charities… and cats!
On the cover
Nerun Sreesun, a stuntman and actor who plays ‘The Warrior of Broken Swords’ in the stage production Muay Thai Live now playing at Asiatique. Photo courtesy of Muay Thai Live: The Legend Lives (see page 114).
ART & CULTURE 56 Art Updates 58 Art Exhibitions A list of museum gallery shows across the city 60 Book Review King Maybe, a new crime thriller by Timothy Hallinan 61 Cinema Scope Special film events and screenings around town 62 Special Report Singapore’s new National Gallery showcases a wealth of ASEAN artists 66 Photo Feature Re-Look photo exhibit by artist Soichiro Shimizu
Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | JUNE 2016
bangkok101.com
CONTENTS 78
FOOD & DRINK
110
72 Food & Drink Updates 74 Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners 75 Hot Plates Bunker provides cover for Bangkok foodies 76 Restaurant Reviews Chili Hip; Sühring; Don Giovanni; Park Society; Scarlett; Liu
LIFE+STYLE
84 Breaking Bread with chef Gaby Espinosa Real from Clandestino
104 Lifestyle Updates
86 Eat Like Nym Suki Ruenpetch serves up meals worth sharing
106 Spa Deals Bangkok spas offer amazing deals and discounts
88 Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok
107 108
NIGHTLIFE 92 Nightlife Updates 94 Bar Reviews The Sportsman; Flow House 96 Feature 101’s Rock Philosopher reports on Bangkok’s live music scene 98 Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok
Spa Reviews Panpuri Organic Spa; Rarinjinda Spa Spa Products Skin revitalizing lotions for city dwellers
109 Unique Boutique Preduce—a chic boutique for skateboarders 110 Made in Thailand Fancy footwear with Kraftka’s customized sneakers 112 Style Guide Healthy smartwatches track your fitness progress
SIGNING OFF 114 Did You Know?... Did you know that there’s a way to enjoy Muay Thai boxing without seeing anyone get hurt?
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
CONTRIBUTING
PUBLISHED BY
Julia Offenberger
PHOTOGRAPHERS
ART DIRECTOR
Dave Crimaldi, Egor Kataev, Seamas McCaffrey, Megan Rogers
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120
Narong Srisaiya PUBLISHER
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Mason Florence
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GENERAL MANAGER
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond
STRATEGISTS
SALES MANAGER
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
Orawan Ratanapratum
Parinya Krit-Hat
Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen
MANAGING EDITOR
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
SALES EXECUTIVE
Bruce Scott
Jim Algie, Gary Barber, Luc Citrinot, Philip CornwellSmith, Dave Crimaldi, Max Crosbie-Jones, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Craig Sauers, Lisnaree Vichitsorasatra
Kiattisak Chanchay
SALES AND MARKETING
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ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Pawika Jansamakao EDITOR-AT-LARGE
Joe Cummings EDITORIAL COORDINATOR
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DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR
Seri Sartsanapiti
Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2016. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
SUAN BUA The warm, invitingly renovated Suan Bua has been dedicated to authentic Thai cuisine for over 30 years. Here we create dishes from every corner of the country, ranging from ultra-spicy southern through to tangy northeastern and milder northern favourites. Come and sample the delicious expression of Chef Santiphap Petchwao’s expertise in a tranquil, modern setting - bright, airy and at one with nature.
FOR MORE INFORMATION AND RESERVATIONS T: 02 541 1234 ext. 4151 | E: fb_office@chr.co.th centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/cglb
CITY PULSE | metro beat
JUNE’S HOTTEST TICKETS June 2
ELECTRONIC/DANCE June 11
Get ready for the 2nd edition of the most successful independent electronic music festival when the Road to Ultra 2016 returns to Thailand, bringing nonstop action to the BITEC Convention Centre (BTS Bang Na). Headliners
Formerly a member of 90s rock group Juniper, and one of the contributing artists for The Cake Sale, Irish singer-songwriter, musician and record producer Damien Rice will perform his first full solo concert in Thailand at the Bangkok Convention Center (5th floor, Central Plaza Ladprao). Rice is touring to support his latest release, My Favourite Faded Fantasy, and the tickets priced from B1,000 to B3,000, are expected to sell out fast. www.thaiticketmajor.com
June 11-12
include Avicii and Martin Garrix (above), two of the biggest names in the EDM scene, as well as JAUZ, Sunnery James & Ryan Marciano, Ninegod, and Skinny Mark & Zuper L. Tickets are B2,400. thailand.roadtoultra.com
DANCE WORKSHOP June 24-25
Dance enthusiasts should make their way to the Dance Factory (63 Ratchadapisek 7) for Guardians of Dance Thailand. On the first day there will be a 2-hour panel discussion on NYC hip hop, house, and popping cultures with appearances by Brian Green (judge on So You Think You Can Dance, Singapore), Gucchon (winner of ‘Popping Forever 2015’), and Future (core member of both Full Circle Productions, and House of Ninja). On the 2nd day there will be house and popping dance contests. The event takes place from 4pm to midnight and a 2-day package, including workshops and contests, costs just B1,800 (or pay B885 for each workshop, and for the contest day). site.dancefactory-ratchada.com 10 | JUNE 2016
Heartthrob South Korean K-pop boy band GOT7 visits Bangkok for 2 nights, bringing fans something they call GOT7 1st Concert ‘Fly In Bangkok’. The shows, which are being held at Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, take off at 7pm on the 11th, and 5pm on the 12th. Expect to hear hit singles like “Fly”, “Homerun”, and “Just Right”, which will be performed on an extended catwalk stage, making fans feeling all that much closer to the band. Tickets range in price from B1,800 to B5,800. www.thaiticketmajor.com
June 16-19
The magician known only as Cyril—voted ‘Magician of the Year’ in 2007—brings his Cyril Magic Up Close & Personal to Bangkok, performing 6 shows at the Siam Pic-Ganesha Center of Performing Arts (7th floor, Siam Square One). Forget about the same old magic tricks you’ve seen on TV and get to be amazed by Cyril’s jaw-dropping tricks. There will be one evening show per day, and a 2pm matinee performance on June 18th and on 19th. Tickets range in price from B1,500 to B4,800. www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com
metro beat | CITY PULSE
THEATRE PERFORMANCES From June 1
The Thong Lor Art Space Bangkok presents Stick Figures, a play about grief and how we grieve. The play was written by Josh Ginsburg, and premiered at The Carnegie Mellon University School of Drama where Ginsburg did his MFA in Dramatic Writing Program in 2013. The play is double-casted, allowing it to be performed in both English and Thai (with no subtitles). The performances run until the end of June, and tickets are priced at just B550. www.facebook.com/Thonglorartspace
June 23-July 3
Theatre fans won’t want to miss Culture Collective Studio’s presentation of Death Trap, by Ira Levin (the man who wrote Rosemary’s Baby), which is the longest running mystery thriller on Broadway. John Marengo stars in this production, along with Sirisak Pituk, Cherene Knop , Cecelia Belletti and Fc Nieuwoudt. Tickets range in price from B800 to B1,000, and all performances begin at 8pm. Culture Collective Studio is located on the 3rd Floor of the Chatrium Residence Riverside, Charoenkrung Road, Soi 70. Call 089 876 5400 for more information and ticket reservation. www.culture-collective.com
MUSICAL EVENTS June 9-12
The Thailand Guitar Society, in association with the Conservatory of Music Rangsit University, presents The Asia International Guitar Festival & Competition 2016 at the Sukosol Bangkok hotel (477 Si Ayuthaya Rd). All classical guitarists, irrespective of age or nationality, are invited to join the competition to win the grand prize of a classical guitar (crafted by one of the world’s most famous luthiers). During the festival there will also be guitar masterclasses from big names like Eduardo Fernández, Dale Kavanagh, and Gerard Abiton, and concerts from professional guitarists throughout the 4-day event. For details and ticket prices, check out: aigf.weebly.com.
Photo by Dave Crimaldi
June 18
The French Embassy, in partnership with the Alliance Française Bangkok, is hosting Fête de la Musique at the Alliance Française building (179 Witthayu Rd). Catch performances by some of Thailand’s best new bands, including My Life As Ali Thomas, DCNXTR, Monomania, and Jelly Rocket. Other highlights include film screenings, a seminar about the impact My Life as Ali Thomas of digitalization on music industry, workshops for young audiences, and a minimarket featuring food and drink, record labels booth stalls and music shops. The event gets underway at 2pm and runs till midnight, and admission is free. www.afthailande.org bangkok101.com
Darren Sanders
COMEDY Every Friday
The Comedy Club Bangkok presents a cavalcade of comedy this month—and every month—starting on Friday June 3rd with the Improv Comedy Show led by award-winning Canadian comedian Drew McCreadie (B350 in advance, B500 on the door, includes one drink). Then, on Friday June 10th, enjoy the stand-up with Aussie comedian and TV chat show host Darren Sanders, (B500 in advance, B750 on the door, includes one drink). And keep checking the Bangkok Comedy Club website for news about all upcoming performances. The Comedy Club Bangkok is located on Sukhumvit 33/1, above The Royal Oak pub (BTS Phrom Phong). www.comedyclubbangkok.com
TECH WORKSHOP June 22
Techies take note: the About Thailand eCommerce Summit 2016 is coming to town. This all-day event, which runs from 9am till 5pm, takes place at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel (494 Rajdamri Rd) and covers everything from eCommerce, to ePayment and eLogistics. There will be well known keynote and panel speakers, as well as tech workshops, a startup pitch contest, and much, much more. Over 500 business professionals from the tech industry will be there, including many tech experts, entrepreneurs, and financial investors. All talks and workshops will be presented in English. For ticket and more info visit: tecs2016.eventbrite.com JUNE 2016 | 11
CITY PULSE | metro beat
RUNNING EVENTS June 4
For beer lovers who also love to run the Mikkeller Running Club is hosting its 18th Bangkok running event at Mikkeller Bangkok (26 Ekkamai 10, Yaek 2) starting at 4:30pm. The overall aim is to make people stay fit through running so they can enjoy delicious food and drinks—especially beers—even more. www.facebook.com/mikkellerrunningclub
June 5
SPECIAL EVENTS June 26
In order to promote both physical and mental health, using the astonishing healing science of yoga, the Embassy of India, together with Chulalongkorn University, presents the 2nd Annual International Day of Yoga Bangkok, which will be celebrated at Chulalongkorn University on the front grounds opposite the main auditorium. The event runs from 6:30am to 8:30am, and participants will take instructions from Indian yoga gurus and experienced yoga instructors. Hundreds of T-shirts and yoga mats will be distributed free to all participants, as well as energy drinks, snack packs, milk and water. Thousands attended last year’s day of yoga in Bangkok, so be a part of this year’s event by registering at: bit.ly/YogaDay2016.
June 30-July 3
Thailand’s annual Scrabble tournament returns to Bangkok, as the 31st BRAND’s International Crossword Game King’s Cup 2016 gets underway at the Central Plaza Westgate. Players from across the world will participate in this exciting and challenging wordplay
Jog out to the Rama 8 Bridge during the Garmin Blue Run 2016. For each runner who crosses the finish line in time Garmin Thailand will donate B100 for Utokapat Foundation (under Royal Patronage of H.M. the King), and for those wearing Garmin products the donation will be doubled. Registration fees are B700 for the half marathon, and B500 for the mini marathon. www.facebook.com/events/501643126687711
June 12
Check out the Bangkok Life Assurance Half Marathon 2016, which will be held on at Suan Luang Rama VIII Public Park (Arun Amarin Rd). Runners can sign up for 21.1k, 10.5k and 5k. The race will raise funds to build a park for Bangkok’s communities. Entry fees are B300 to B500. www.bibmaster.com Also on June 12th runners can give happy and beautiful smiles to kids with cleft lips and palates, during the Making Smile Changing Lives Run 2016 charity run, which starts 6am at Rama 9 National Park. Entry fee for the 10k mini marathon and 5k fun run is B500. www.jogandjoy.com June 12th is also the date when the Rainbow Room Foundation and the Punky Runners, one of the coolest running groups in Bangkok, are bringing The Rainbow Run 2016 to Lumpini Park. The race goes from 5am to 8:30am, and will raise funds to support those with special needs. The registration fee is B350 (includes T-shirt and numbered bib). www.therainbowroom.org Finally, June 12th is also the date for the 6k BKK Marathon Fun Run which gets underway at 6am at the Giant Swing (Bamrung Muang Rd), and takes runners past some historic sites in the old city. Entry fee is just B200, which includes a souvenir T-shirt, so register now. www.bkkmarathon.com
June 19
The Supersports 10 Mile International Run 2016 will be held at CentralWorld (Rajdamri Rd), and features 10, 5, or 2.5 mile runs (which are 16k, 8k, and 4k, respectively). There are major cash prizes and trophies for the winners, as well as medals, shirts, and bags for all participants. www.supersports.co.th/10-mile-run-2016-registration
event, featuring a grand prize of US$ 10,000, and a trophy from His Majesty the King. Apart from the International Open Division, there will also be Senior Championship Prizes, Team Unity Prizes, and Handicap Result Prizes. For application and inquiry, please call 02 295 0861-5, or email: info@ thaicrossword.com. 12 | JUNE 2016
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CITY PULSE | my bangkok
Ratchanok ‘May’ Intanon
Although she may not be a household name worldwide, in Thailand Ratchanok ‘May’ Intanon is a sports superstar. Just 21 years old, she recently became the top ranking women’s badminton player in the world and this summer, she heads to the Olympic games in Rio. By Pawika Jansamakao
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his national star-to-be was born in Roi Et in 1995, and moved to Bangkok when she was only 3 months old. Her parents had begun working at the Bang Thong Yod dessert factory, the place where Ratchanok ‘May’ Intanon’s amazing career all began. The factory’s owner, Kamala Thongkorn, worried that children of her workers might have an accident with one of the machines in her factory, so she decided to send the children—including Ratchanok— to Banthongyord Badminton School (which she also ran), to practice badminton with other young beginners. Surrounding by competitive partners, Ratchanok found she enjoyed practicing, and started setting goals for each tournament. She won her first trophy when she was only seven years old, which ignited her ambition to go as far as she could as a professional badminton player. For almost 15 years she has been working hard to follow her dream, together with major help from the experienced coaching team at Banthongyord which includes Xie Zhuhua, a former national player from China, and Patapol Ngernsrisuk, also a former national badminton player and son of Kamala Thongkorn. According to coach Xie, his young protégé has trained hard every single day for the past 15 years. She practices badminton daily, for at least three hours (although the maximum for her is a grueling seven hours a day). She has been doing this, along with her regular academic schooling, since she was six years old, and she is now a freshman in Political Science at Thonburi Bangkok University. Some recent and remarkable moments have marked 2016 as Ratchanok’s “golden year”. She
14 | J U N E 2016
What are some of the upcoming tournaments you are getting ready for at the moment? I am training for the Asia Championship, and the Women’s Team World Championship, and a few World Superseries matches before the Olympic Games in August in Rio de Janeiro. Whenever I have time I keep practicing, in order to perfect my game.
became the youngest singles champion of the BWF World Super Series, and the first ever to win three matches in three consecutive weeks. And, by winning this trio of Super Series—in India, Malaysia and Singapore—her total score brought her to first place in the rankings, thus making her the world’s No.1 badminton player (although at the time of this writing she has dipped to No. 2 in the rankings, which is still very impressive). When did you begin playing badminton, and did you ever think that you would become a professional player? I started playing badminton when I was six years old, but I had no special inspirations to become a professional. As a child, I played badminton only for fun and exercise, without any idea of growing up to compete professionally. How old were you when you won your first big badminton match? As far as I remember, I won my very first prize when I was seven. That was at the Udon Thani Open. I was very happy and excited.
Where is your favourite place in Bangkok to practice your chosen sport? I’ve never been to any gyms apart from the gym at Banthongyod Badminton School. When I was growing up that’s where I began playing badminton. Do you think Bangkok is provided with adequate places for exercise or sports? I don’t think there is enough space in Bangkok where people can exercise and play sports. But, I also think this shouldn’t be an obstacle to working out, since there are various kinds of exercises that you can do in a limited space. Do you get recognized when you go out? How did people react after you became number 1 in the world singles rankings? They do recognize my face from the newspapers and the TV. Some might walk up to me and greet me, but some will just look at me from a distance as they’re not entirely sure of who I am. What is your biggest goal at present? To win an Olympic gold medal! I am quite confident with my performance and I am ready to face any competitors. Winning a gold medal at this summer’s Olympic Games will mark a pinnacle of my life as an athlete so far. bangkok101.com
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Get in the Game! Discovering the sporty side of Bangkok By Julia Offenberger
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or some of us it might have been a while since the last time we put on those running shoes, hit the gym, or even attempted to do a push-up at home. Although we are aware of the numerous benefits of an active lifestyle, it’s just hard to find the motivation to suffer through anything resembling exercise, especially in this heat. But despite the torrid temperatures, sports are a big part of life in Thailand (and in Bangkok especially) and there are many different ways to add some sporty activity to your daily or weekly routine. Here are some inventive ideas on how to “get in the game”.
Practice your swing
The Racquet Club
Keep up your routine For visitors to Bangkok who don’t want their normal exercise routine to suffer, check into one of the city’s many high-end hotels offering first-rate sports and fitness facilities, such as the centrally located Pathumwan Princess Hotel which has rooftop tennis courts, a basketball halfcourt, a 25 metre salt water pool, and a 400 metre jogging track located on the 8th floor of the adjacent MBK shopping centre (all part of the hotel’s Olympic Club). Another option is to check out The Racquet Club, located on Sukhumvit Soi 49. Sports facilities here include tennis, badminton, boxing, swimming, squash, futsal, billiards, and more. www.theolympic-club.com www.rqclub.com
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Thana City Golf & Sports Club
For those who want to practice their golf game while in Bangkok, there are several driving ranges located throughout the city, including 42 Tee Off (close to Phra Khanong BTS station), RCA Driving Range (just off Petchaburi Rd), and a 50-yard mini-driving range at the Dusit Thani Hotel (next to Silom MRT station). Or, for a real 18-hole game, there are five golf courses located east of the downtown core—close to Suvarnabhumi Airport—including the Thana City Golf & Sports Club, the Summit Windmill Golf Club, and Muang Kaew Golf Course. www.thanacitygolf.com www.summitwindmillgolfclub.com www.muangkaewgolf.com
Cool things down While Bangkok is incredibly hot almost all year round, this crazy city actually offers places to skate, and even play hockey! Lace up those blades and head to The Rink Ice Arena in Central World (B220/hour) or, if you want to take things a step further, sign up for ice hockey lessons at The Rink Ice Arena Central Plaza Rama 9, where training sessions are held every Wednesday from 8:30pm to 10pm. And if you want to catch some local pros in action, check out Bangkok Ice Hockey League’s website for the dates and times of upcoming matches. www.therink-icearena.com www.bangkokicehockey.com bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
Race through the night Speed demons should head to Easy Kart—the biggest indoor go-kart track in Bangkok—for a pedal-to-the-metal adrenaline rush. Located in the RCA Plaza (just off Petchaburi Rd), the racetrack features a night light system, a computer time system, and a panoramic bar and restaurant for between race refreshments. Race individually or join as a group, and whether you’re a beginner or experienced rider everybody is welcome. The track is open daily from 1pm to midnight. There’s also Easy Kart locations in Pattaya and Koh Samui. www.easykart.net
Bounce
Hop, skip, and jump
Pedal pushers Cycling in the city is not the easiest (or safest) activity, but if you head a little ways outside the downtown core Peppermint Bike Park offers urbanites a safe environment to ride within a paved 2km track. There are two courses: the normal paved lane and a more challenging elevated mountain bike track that contains a wooden bridge, curved path, and rolling slopes. The park is car-free, safe, and open to all types of riders. Annual membership is available for just B200. On top of that, members pay B100 during the day and B150 at night (for non-members it’s B150, and B200 at night).
Remember how much fun it was to jump around trampolines as a child? Well, it’s not just a fun activity reserved for kids, but has actually numerous physical and mental health benefits for youngsters and grown-ups alike. Trampoline aerobics is a perfect cardio exercise. According to a study by NASA, 10 minutes jumping on a trampoline provides the same fitness results as 33 minutes of running. However, the mat (or pad) absorbs 80 per cent of the shock from the rebound, which reduces the risk of joint injuries. To try this activity in Bangkok head to Rockin’ Jump, close to Chong Nonsi BTS station, for some freestyle jumping, trampoline dodgeball, or just diving into pools of soft foam cubes. Prices start at B400 for half an hour on weekends (or an hour during the week). Another big trampoline park in the city is Bounce, located on the 5th floor of The Street Ratchada shopping complex. It consists of five different activity zones, including freestyle jumping, wall running, and dodgeball. General admission is B490. Other places to check out include Amped Trampoline Park on Soi Sukhumvit 69, and Funny Jump on Bang Na Trat Soi 56. www.bounceinc.co.th www.bangkok-rockinjump.com www.facebook.com/ampedthailand www.facebook.com/trampolineBKK
www.peppermintbikepark.com bangkok101.com
J U N E 2016 | 17
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
For animal lovers Learn horseback riding at The Bangkok Equestrian Center, located close to Suvarnabhumi Airport. The centre offers stabling, tack gear, grooming, and horse training, among other services. All levels are welcome to learn and improve their riding skills whether its the basics or world-class dressage training. There’s also a Pony Club for youngsters to give new riders a soft introduction to horseback riding. Find out if you like it by getting a three lesson trial package first. www.bangkokequestriancenter.com Royal Bangkok Sports Club
Urban Playground
Getting higher
If you are still not motivated to get into the game yourself, get caught up in the frenzy of the crowd at one of Bangkok’s many live sporting events. Twice a month, horse races—for watching and betting—are held at the Royal Bangkok Sports Club on Henri Dunant Road, and at the Royal Turf Club on Phitsanulok Road. Besides playing the national lottery, betting at these horse races is the only other legal form of gambling in Thailand. Finally, football fans can either head east of the city centre to Rajamangala National Stadium, the home stadium for Thailand’s national football team, or the centrally located Suphachalasai National Stadium (at the same-named BTS station) for national and international football games. Football is hugely popular in Thailand and the fans who attend these matches are as die hard as they come.
If you want to get even higher than you can on a trampoline, try Bounce’s rock climbing area with 24 different climbing walls. Adrenaline junkies will agree that climbing is a fun and thrilling experience that improves strength, posture and agility, all within a safe environment. Another Bangkok climbing hotspot is Urban Playground (part of the Racquet Club) which offers over 650 sq.m of indoor climbing space. It’s located between the BTS stations Phrom Phong and Thonglor, and its facilities range from a bouldering wall and cave to 12 metre top-rope climbing, and activities that include a one-hour ‘introduction to climbing’ class. There are different memberships available, but non-members pay B426 for weekdays and B525 on weekends. Finally, Virgin Active at the Empire Tower (BTS Chong Nonsi) has a huge climbing wall dotted with fluorescent rocks that light up according to your route (easy, medium or difficult).
www.rbsc.org www.thaifootball.com
www.urbanplaygroundclimbing.com www.virginactive.co.th
Rajamangala National Stadium
Watching is kind of like playing
18 | JUNE 2016
bangkok101.com
CITY PULSE | out & about
Running with the Hounds A long-time runner takes a leap with Bangkok’s Hash House Harriers By Craig Sauers
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arning: This story is rated PG-13. Actually, make that R. What did you expect? We’re talking about the Hash House Harriers, those notorious groups of “drinkers with a running problem.” I’d been regaled with tales of beers chugged on knees, relentless “down downs” and thinly veiled (make that blatant) dick jokes sung together in the groups’ infamous circles, and
20 | JUNE 2016
behaviour so debauched it would make Larry David blush. So when I was asked to join the Bangkok Thursday Hash, I prepped myself for the verbal abuse and Friday’s hangover. Never did I anticipate enjoying myself so much, not to mention discovering a group of people so diverse, respectful of others, team-oriented, and welcoming. All those down downs, the dirty humour, the scurrying around in
search of tiny arrows scribbled in chalk on sidewalks? We’ll get to that. But let’s start with a confession: I’ve been a competitive runner for over half my life, and on more than one occasion I’ve been guilty of looking down my nose at groups like the Hash House Harriers. I’ve been in the “running as self-flagellation” camp for as long as I can recall. Throughout university, I was surrounded by semi-pro studs, bangkok101.com
out & about | CITY PULSE guys who could run a 10k in less than 30 minute (and thundering herds of women hot on their heels), and runners that were savage on the trails but so generous they would give up their seats at the dinner table an hour later. So maybe my conceit stemmed from being a product of the system. It wasn’t until I entered the real world that I finally appreciated the way camaraderie could take precedence over competition. I was late to the party, I guess. Most runners, open-minded and self-aware, already lived on that higher plane of understanding. And I was about to get an unforgettable initiation into a group of them. For the Bangkok Thursday Hash, I was instructed to take the BTS to Sala Daeng and exit toward Soi Convent. From there, I was supposed to go to the second floor of a restaurant across the street from Molly Malone’s. When I arrived, about 10 minutes before 6:30pm, when the run was scheduled to start, nearly 20 singlet-clad men and women were already seated at the tables—and this, I was later told, was a light showing. I introduced myself to the current “Hash Cash” (that’s a “treasurer” in everyday parlance), Osama Rajkhan, a bald-headed man with a strong physique who told me he goes by “Minnie Me” in HHH circles. “I’m a virgin,” I told him. Meaning, I’ve never done one of these. Fortunately, I wasn’t the only one to lose my
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virginity that night; a French runner was doing his first Hash, as well. Minnie Me introduced me to Cord, the Hare, or the person who lays the trail that the Hounds follow. At some Hash runs, the Hare will take off running 10 minutes before the pack and mark the trail on the go, a veritable rabbit racing for its life. That’s called a “Live Hash.” For this run, Cord told me he had gone out beforehand, in the insufferable 3pm heat, to mark the trail. Owing to Bangkok’s climate (hot, wet much of the time, overrun with cars and motorbikes all the time), the Hare for the Thursday Hash will usually stuff bits of paper into holes in concrete utility poles, the markers placed at about eye-level. This Hare, however, had used chalk to scrawl small white arrows into the asphalt. It would be his downfall this night. After everyone had paid Minnie Me 50 baht, money that covers the “down down” drinks after the run, the group made its way downstairs and almost immediately set off running down a non-descript soi toward Sathorn. “On on!” shouted Drunken Donut, who is commonly known as Eric Cornile outside of Hashing. I thought this was a rally cry—“Hurrah! Here we go!”—that sort of thing. It turned out he was guiding the way. “Yes, we’re on the right path,” he was saying. Before long, when the darkness had set in and the narrow arrows became harder to find,
Drunken Donut and another runner had sprinted away, disappearing from sight. Minnie Me shouted, “RU?” When asked what that means, he replied, “I’m asking the Front Running Bastard if we’re on the right trail.” Front Running Bastard, or FRB, was another slang term from the Hasher lexicon, but this one was self-explanatory: the person running in front. Hash House Harriers have a long and fabled history. The tradition began in 1938 in Selangor, in what is now known as Malaysia. A small group of British soldiers stationed there used the “hare and hound” running format as both a diversion and a way to work off the weekend’s indulgences. The founding members live on in folklore, still influencing the current rites of passage and rituals for hash groups around the world. For example, when Trailmaster KC Marshment (“Boobalube”) brought all the night’s virgins into the centre of the circle after the run, he spoke with military tone and diction of the young soldiers who zealously chased the first Hare—all to pull his pants down once he was finally caught. Rather than give us a hearty de-pantsing, Marshment instead commanded us to “empty our drinking vessels,” filled either with beer or water, for those who had chosen to abstain, as the entire circle sang a Hare Hymn. It’s these traditions, this codified language—RU, FRB, Shiggy, Hash Hymns—that have mythologized the HHH. Every time someone from the pack had sprinted into the distance, he or she would invariably return, confused and slightly irritated. It had taken longer than usual to run into a checkpoint—fittingly, a circle with a large “X” in it. I learned that this group liked order. Make the trail challenging, sure, but leave the marks in plain sight, and remember that teamwork trumps all. “French Hashers don’t like checkpoints,” said Minnie Me, as other Hounds wondered (and swore) audibly about the lack of checks. “They prefer to race all the way to the end, but that’s not the point. The checkpoints make it so that the fast runners don’t get ahead of the slow runners and we all finish together. It’s about the camaraderie.” A man dubbed “Arakie”, an American expat who has been Hashing JUNE 2016 | 21
CITY PULSE | out & about
his way across the globe for over 40 years—most often in Asia, where it all began—also took the occasion to comment on the Hare’s style. “This Hare doesn’t know what he’s doing. There’s supposed to be 100 metres between marks, at most,” he lamented. “I’m going to triple down down him later.” The rest of the run was a blur. By 7, it was dark as pitch outside, especially on the tiny sois behind St. Louis Hospital that we were navigating. At one point, I went back to look for lost runners, but I returned to a meeting point to find everyone gone but Arakie. We blazed our own trail then. Or, as he put, we “aborted mission,” jogging back to the starting point down Silom Road with proverbial tails between legs. So it goes. But by the time we reached the 7-Eleven across the street from the starting point (Thursday Hashes start near a BTS station and end at a 7-Eleven to streamline the beer purchasing process) his mood had improved. It was, after all, a fun run. Besides, with the hard stuff out of the way, it was time for the circle. All those stories you’ve heard about beer-bullying, comments about various bodily parts, dirty in-jokes, and other such raunchy rituals happen in the circle. As the other virgin and I waited with bated breath for the show 22 | JUNE 2016
to begin, a Hasher named Keith struck up conversation with me. “Where are you from? Oh, America. I haven’t Hashed in America, but I understand that’s where all the coarse stuff happens. The nudity, and groping, and binge-drinking. Very different from England, you know, which is very prim.” This was coming from a man affectionately known as Diarrhoea, mind you. Names aside, he was right. Even if you can’t decode all the dirty jokes, know that, certainly here in Bangkok, beneath every one of them is the verbal equivalent of a pat on the back or a friendly hug. The Hashers were good people. Need proof? Every May, the men and women in the various HHH chapters don red dresses and run around the city, raising money from passersby that goes to immediate disaster relief—as was the case last year, when the ‘Red Dress Run’ followed the earthquake in Nepal—or local charities. “We raised over 4,000 [US dollars] last year in one hour,”
Boobalube told me. And many of the Hashers hold service-related jobs. From UN employees, to medical professionals researching treatments for HIV—the tie that binds all is Hashing. The circle was literally that. Boobalube, who was filling in for the GM that night, would pull in Hashers individually or in groups, sometimes for breaking the unspoken rules (“No talking in the circle! No wearing hats in the circle!”), lead a hymn, each punctuated with “Drink it down, down, down, down…” and commence the down downs (“down down” derived from the hymn ending mentioned here). By 8:30pm, after many hymns were sung and all cups had been emptied, the circle disbanded. The Hare, who had heard plenty of—let’s call them “light-hearted”—remarks about the quality of his trail, had earned the many down downs he was given. Now, it was his turn to return the favour—by buying dinner for all the Hounds.
Bangkok Thursday Hash runs take place every Thursday at 6:30pm. Visitors and virgins are always welcome. Locations vary, and joining in on the runs is a great way to see odd and interesting parts of the city—places you may never have known about before. Bring a little pocket cash and, if you wish, a bag with clothes to change into (the Hare keeps watch of all belongings while the Hounds run). For more info about Bangkok Thursday Hash, visit: www.bangkokthursdayhash.com.
bangkok101.com
SOUL SCIENCE
The Soulful Science of Thai Cuisine: Green Peppercorns The Thai culinary repertoire has always balanced itself between art and science. At Ruen Urai – “the House of Gold” – dishes are prepared with passion and flair based on an intimate knowledge of ingredients and their flavours, textures, and aromas. Paying homage to the herbal medicine doctor who originally resided in the century-old golden teakwood house in which Ruen Urai is located, our Thai gourmet voyage continues to explore zesty herbs and spices and their meanings and usage. Through their chemistry and harmony, gastronomic alchemy is created. Pepper, which comes from the dried berries of a vine native to the Malabar Coast of India and Indonesia, was once such a valuable spice that it was literally sold by the grain in mediaeval Europe. Now widely grown in tropical Asia, the pepper vine produces black, white, and even green peppercorns. Before the arrival of chillies from the Americas in the 16th century, peppercorns were the main source of heat in tropical Asian food. Green peppercorns are the immature berries, which have numerous health benefits. They are high in antioxidants, help break down fat cells, improve digestion, and have anticancer properties. Their spicy, fresh flavours and bright aromas add complexity and distinct presence to our Wild Boar Sautéed in Curry Sauce. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel opens from 12 noon to 11 p.m. 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
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CITY PULSE | on the block
Pa iri
Ben jas
Benjasiri Park Hot Yoga Bangkok
Krudam Muay Thai School
Soi Phrom
lang
ukhu
Soi K
Soi Sa watdi
The Lab
Surf Set
Soi S
Su
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Rd
Soi
Suk
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Aquabiking Bangkok
Soi Sukhumvit 47
Soi Sukhumvit 22
Phrom Phong
aeng
Virgin Active
Muk da
Soi S
Soi Sukhumvit 20
Soi Sukhumvit 18
Ashtanga Yoga Center of Bangkok
Soi Sukhumvit 16
Ratchada Phisek Rd
Soi Su
True Fitness
khum vit 29
aphats Soi Pr
CrossFit BK
Chit
Soi Sukhumvit 51
The Balance Studio Pilates & Yogafly on
Asok
Soi Sukhumvit 12
Soi Sukhumvit 10
Fitness First
Yogatique
mvit 39
Sukhumvit
Soi Sukhum vit 33
Chuvit Garden
Soi Sukhum vi
t 23
Tony’s Fitness
Soi Ph
Soi Sukhum vit 13
Soi Sukhum vit 19
etchab uri
Srinakharinwirot University
Sa p
Benjakiti Park
k ra vi Ath a
Ram
a IV
S oi
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Prem Yog and Prana Centre
ukhu
aw i
Soi S
i Th
mvit 36
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th
a III
Soi Phai Singto
Rd
Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre
Soi Suphan
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Ari
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Rd bangkok101.com
on the block | CITY PULSE
Active in Asok
This congested downtown intersection is home to a surprising array of jogging parks and fitness outlets. By Bruce Scott
N
ewcomers to Bangkok can often be spotted on the pedestrian bridge that spans the city’s Asok intersection—where Sukhumvit and Ratchadapisek roads come together—taking photographs of the unimaginable traffic gridlock that stretches out in every direction. With all that noise and filthy car exhaust spewing into the air this part of town seems like an unlikely spot for healthy outdoor pursuits, but actually within a short distance of these chaotic crossroads one can find tranquil jogging parks, innovative fitness centres, yoga studios, and more. Probably the most scenic landmark in this district is Benjakiti Park, a beautiful 130 rai (20.8 hectare) expanse of greenery, built on what was once a part of the Tobacco Monopoly—a vast, crown-owned expanse of factories and warehouses. There’s an artificial lake in the middle of the park, which is where you’ll find avid joggers and cyclists doing laps around a 2k track. Bike rental is available, and the easiest access point to the park is via the Queen Sirikit MRT Station, which also services the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center (another important city landmark). Opening hours are between 5am and 9pm. Another scenic patch of greenery in this district is Benjasiri Park, which measures over 4.5 hectares and sits next door to the lavish Emporium shopping complex, and across the street from the recently opened EmQuartier (accessible via the Phrom Phong BTS Station). A jogging and/or strolling track encircles a large manmade pond—the centerpiece of the park—and within the enclosed grounds there can also be found children’s play areas, outdoor mini-gyms, and plenty of benches for taking a break. Opening hours are between 5am and 9pm. bangkok101.com
At Sukhumvit Soi 10 there’s a very tiny private park known as Chuvit Garden, which was created in 2006 by Chuwit Kamolvisit (Bangkok’s biggest massage parlour owner at the time). In 2003 Chuwit was arrested after illegally evicting the tenants off his land—where the park now stands—and after his release he began exposing all the police bribery he was privy to during his years in the skin trade, thus becoming an unlikely
activist against police corruption. The park’s opening hours are from 6am till 10am, and 4pm till 8pm. Another open green field in this vicinity can be found on the grounds of Srinakharinwirot University. If you follow Sukhumvit Soi 23 all the way up you’ll eventually arrive at the university campus, where a large playing field is a favourite spot for impromptu football matches as well as a place for student dance troupes to
Ashtanga Yoga Center
Virgin Active
The Lab
CrossFit BK JUNE 2016 | 25
CITY PULSE | on the block
Surf Set
Aquabiking Bangkok
Yogatique
Balance Studio Pilates & Yogafly
practice their choreographed routines. However, if Bangkok’s searing midday heat makes you less than enthused about jogging or cycling outdoors, there are dozens of indoor fitness spots within close proximity of the Asok intersection. Sleek, modern, and (thankfully) air-conditioned fitness centres such as True Fitness (2nd floor, Exchange Tower), Virgin Active (at EmQuartier), Fitness First (6th floor, Terminal 21 mall), and Tony’s Fitness (Sukhumvit Soi 19) all offer high quality workout facilities, but there are some less conventional exercise spots to be found along the Sukhumvit strip as well. At CrossFit BK (348/2 Sukhumvit Rd)—the first CrossFit affiliate in Bangkok—super challenging and 26 | JUNE 2016
Krudam Muay Thai School
Prem Yog and Prana Centre
innovative workouts take place on the open-air rooftop training area, which is clearly visible from the Asok BTS Skytrain Station. Innovative training is also the idea behind The Lab (3rd floor RSU Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 31), a fitness-training studio that offers tailor-made programs utilizing everything from kettle bells and TRX suspension trainers, to big tyres, ceiling ropes, and gymnastic rings. However, if you’re looking for something really oddball try Aquabiking Bangkok (Sukhumvit Soi 16) which involves pedalling a stationary bicycle that is submerged in water, or Surf Set (Sukhumvit Soi 42) where the workout program makes use of surfing techniques. Of course, it also makes sense to experience Muay
Thai—the ancient art of Thai combat— while in Thailand, and the Krudam Muay Thai School (67 Soi Sukhumvit 36) has an array of group and private training courses available. Finally, it’s worth noting that this quadrant of downtown Bangkok is also home to dozens of yoga and Pilates studios. The Balance Studio pilates & Yogafly (Interchange 21 Tower), Yogatique (116 Sukhumvit Soi 23), Hot Yoga Bangkok (47 Sukhumvit Soi 23), and the Ashtanga Yoga Center of Bangkok (S31 Sukhumvit Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 31) are popular choices, while the Prem Yog and Prana Centre—a favourite of Bangkok’s Indian community—often has visiting practitioners from India leading classes and workshops. bangkok101.com
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CITY PULSE | property profile
Premier Kasara Room
Anantara Siam Ratchaprasong’s rebranded regal retreat By Craig Sauers
A
midst the endless expanse of construction and glass towers stretching toward the sky in central Bangkok, the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel remains as stately and sophisticated as ever. The structure itself has occupied the same tract of land on Ratchadamri Road for 33 years, and when it was built, its nine floors must have made it a veritable high-rise. Now, however, its charm is that it is distinctly not a high-rise, but rather a landmark of class and character. Despite having changed names a few times over three decades (it was formerly the Four Seasons up until March of 2015), the heart and soul of the hotel is still intact. The vibrant mural of classic Thai imagery, painted on the wall behind the marble staircase, still
28 | JUNE 2016
greets guests upon arrival. So do the frescoed ceilings, another stately touch of high-society Thailand looking over the modern furniture and fittings in the lobby. Quiet, carpeted halls cushion the way toward the guestrooms, of which there are 354, each spacious and sophisticated. The Premier View Rooms come with a plush king-sized bed, as well as fabric armchairs and long sofas. While the look and feel of the furniture may seem dated in an era of high glitz and technology, by incorporating brightly coloured throw pillows and silk accessories, the rooms instead become captivating bastions of comfort and grace. Yet the hotel doesn’t shirk the advent of technology, either. Each room comes with its own handy
phone—a truly special amenity that allows for free calls to 10 different countries, provides travel itineraries and tips, and even offers social media. Of all the rooms, the most spectacular might just belong to the Kasara Premier View category. Located on the exclusive ‘Kasara’ floor, the rooms enjoy views of the rolling green golf course at the Royal Bangkok Sports Club, a rare sight in a city of concrete. What’s more, they include access to the Kasara Lounge, a peaceful den filled out with books and classic art, where guests can enjoy complimentary food and drinks throughout the day, as well as the aid of a dedicated concierge and special business services. Distinguishing Anantara Siam even further is the diversity of facilities— bangkok101.com
property profile | CITY PULSE
Madison Steakhouse
Wall mural and marble staircase
not to mention the many little perks that come with them. The hotel boasts a roomy half-Olympic-sized pool, with plenty of deck space and loungers to boot. During the day, it’s a perfect place to unwind with a good book in hand. As the sun sets over the surrounding towers, the poolside deck provides another perk as it becomes a haven where guests can sip on cocktails in peace. The Anantara Spa on the second floor, near the entrance to the pool, evokes the spirit of Thai heritage through well thought-out architectural choices, from the archways to the panelling. There is a true variety of treatments from which to choose, and the signature choices are a good bet. The 90-minute Siam 2482 Signature Massage combines practices from Myanmar, Laos, China, and Thailand, incorporating a hot compress and even a sturdy cut of bamboo into the massage therapy. The treatment relieves tired minds as much as achy bodies, but it would be hard to find fault with the Anantara Signature massage, either, which benefits from the use of reflexology. If you prefer self-defined forms of relaxation, try bangkok101.com
Anantara Spa
the saunas or whirlpools in the gym locker rooms. For dining, there is no shortage of options. On weekends, the “East Meets West” afternoon tea in the lobby lounge is highly recommended. Not only does it include a variety of savoury snacks and lavish, bite-sized desserts designed by the hotel’s pastry chef, it also comes with a choice of high-end teas from Mariage Frères, three of which are blends that were specially created for Anantara Siam. For dinner, head to Spice Market, Shintaro, or the flagship Madison—one of the city’s best steakhouses—where wagyu is the main order of business. Choose from ribeye, tenderloin, or tomahawk, the Australian cattle grain-fed for 150 or 300 days, and have it served to a silky medium-rare and accompanied by decadent garlic mashed potatoes. While meat may rule the day, the seafood options are just as deserving of praise. The prices are reasonable, at roughly B3,000 per person with appetizers and wine, especially when considering the quality of the ingredients on offer. But for a true splurge, and one
that almost merits fasting beforehand, try the champagne Sunday brunch. Widely popular among locals, the four-hour feast features immaculately prepared specialties from around the world—Indian curries, Peking duck, sushi and sashimi, a range of foie gras treats, super-fresh oysters and crabs and fish, falafel and stuffed grape leaves with a garlic paste so savoury it’s hard to write about it without salivating, and more excellent desserts than anyone without self-control would ever want to see in one place. Plus, if you opt for champagne, you get free-flow Billecart bubbly for B3,450 per person. As the city evolves around it, this timeless property nevertheless seems destined for many more decades of achievement, thanks to a dedication to Thai heritage enhanced by the most indulgent of modern amenities, sterling service, and some of the finest facilities in town.
Anantara Siam Bangkok 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com
JUNE 2016 | 29
SNAPSHOTS | insight
The Elegant Middle Finger (Oval) by Sutee Kunavichayanont 30 | JUNE 2016
bangkok101.com
insight | SNAPSHOTS
On Manners and Marayaat
M
ost visitors are well aware of certain Thai etiquettes to observe when staying in Thailand. Guidebooks and brochures often mention that body parts such as head, feet, and fingers can create various forms of offensive cultural faux pas. But, in fact, things can get more complicated and lost in translation when it comes to manners. A universal commandment like “Do unto others as you would have them do unto you” may or may not work in every country because of nuances in customs. How do Thais—let alone visitors—even survive these minefields of manner mishaps? Good manners are part and parcel of a good education, so most Thais are taught in schools on how to sit, stand, walk, and talk in diverse situations. We even have official contests for students with the most gracious gestures among the schools. These styles of manners, or marayaat, are mainly used in traditional, ceremonial, and very formal milieus. Nowadays however, our daily life has merged with modern technology and “netiquette” is not even known to
Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com
most people. So what should we do in the real world beyond the classes at a charm school? To Thais, having good manners means having a sensitive awareness of others’ feelings. When I was a boy scout, there was a song called “Kwam Ghreng Jai Pen Sombat Khong Puudee” (Kwam Ghreng Jai is a Gentleman’s Treasure). Feeling ghreng jai means being considerate to, respecting, and even dreading the feelings of others. In this millennium, do we still feel ghreng jai to others much at all? A little book called Sombat Puudee (Gentleman’s Treasures) was taught when I was in primary school. Contradictory to how most Thais refer to puudee, this word doesn’t mean high-born or affluent people, but gentlemen and ladies who possess cordial demeanours. Although this book was written in 1912 by M.R. Pia Malakul, or Chao Phraya Visut Suriyasakdi, during King Rama VI’s reign, it is still very applicable to most situations in modern times because its origin lies in the disciplines for Buddhist monks. In its 10 short chapters, it simply covers how to behave properly in physical, verbal, and mental aspects. However, the hardest thing is to control our mind and try not to think inappropriate things towards people who wrong us. Since etiquette depends on and evolves with culture and society, what is deemed as courteous in one country may shock another. With different customs and protocols, it’s not hard to create some diplomatic gaffes, like the recent incident that Queen Elizabeth II talked about the Chinese diplomats when they visited the U.K. What were these Chinese thinking by being tactless and taking a French leave? In turn, when this phrase is translated in other European languages, it will be “taking an English leave”. Well, I wonder who actually started this bad behaviour. Interacting through modern media can bring out either the best or the worst in all of us. In the digital age, our fingers tend to trip us along the
obstacle course. Boundary issues get blurred when we communicate with others via the mobile phone, online, and instant messaging apps. Lacking our facial expressions, tones of voice, and body language, misunderstandings and misinterpretations can fly out into cyberspace. Our moods and emotional cues become abbreviated into acronyms and emoticons. Technology also coaxes out our over-cultivated self-involvement and megalomaniac tendencies via selfies, oversharing, and over-posting. In the heat of the moment, social code of conduct can disappear into the thin wave of Wi-Fi. Has civility been decayed in our society? One of the worst cases was recently witnessed when a Thai actor who gravely suffered from serious illnesses died. Although his family had pleaded for privacy and respect about photographing his body when it was moved to the temple, throngs of media that camped outside the hospital swarmed in like vultures. Déclassé doesn’t even cover this madness. Downright rudeness also sounds too good. Is Miss Manners able to provide some suggestions on how to deal with these challenges? Like the saying, there is a time and a place for everything, and politeness and poise can work its charms in more ways than one. Having good, respectful, and socially acceptable manners not only conveys respect to those you interact with but also commands respect from them. Civilised manners can help you have better relationships with people around you. Being considerate, respectful, and honest is more important than having a perfect table manner. Social grace may seem like cosmetics, but it also underlies sincerity and good intentions of the action that matter most. Just remember this: good manners cost nothing. They can even disarm some people’s guard. As Clarence Thomas, an Associate Justice of the US Supreme Court, said, “Good manners will open doors that the best education cannot.” JUNE 2016 | 31
SNAPSHOTS | highlight
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highlight | SNAPSHOTS
Vintage Night Markets Chatuchak Weekend Market satellites continue to spread across the capital By Joe Cummings / CPA Media
T
he sprawling weekend market next to Chatuchak Park has drawn steady crowds ever since it opened in 1978 (after vendors kicked out of Sanam Luang moved to land donated by the state railway). By the late 1990s, it was not only the largest market in Thailand, but one of the largest street markets in the world. It was only a matter of time before it spilled over into the night, starting with a few rustic night-spots which catered to market-goers who felt like hanging around for a beer after dark. Some of these evolved into clusters of vendors inspired not so much by daytime Chatuchak as by the vintage flea markets of Europe. One of the most prominent of these was the Railway Market (Talat Rot Fai), found just outside Chatuchak Weekend Market, where for a few
Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com
short years Bangkok’s bohemian set gathered to trade in all manner of vintage clothing and accessories while grooving to retro vinyl and the occasional indie band. When the property lease expired, the Railway Market moved far across town to Si Nakarin Rd, where it continues to do well serving the young alt-shopping crowd from the nearby Lat Phrao and Ram Inthara neighbourhoods. The loss of the Railway Market left behind a vacuum that was soon filled by Jatujak Green, often abbreviated as JJ Green, a larger market that occupies a large parking area to the west of Chatuchak Park. A number of permanent food and drink outlets were added along the way, and nowadays the visitor density at night rivals that of Chatuchak Weekend Market itself. Regulars prefer it to the daytime version for the obvious reason that it’s much cooler after the sun goes down, and because there is a wider variety of places to eat and drink. And like its predecessor the Railway Market, JJ Green cultivates a hipster image. Most vendors operate in the open, so an umbrella is a must when visiting during the rainy season. Many items you’ll find for sale at JJ Green are similar to what fills the stalls at the Chatuchak daytime version, including endless piles of custom T-shirts, inexpensive sunglasses, fauxvintage denim, hipster lids, costume jewelry, and crafty-looking ‘Thai’ souvenirs. Easily the most interesting part of the market is a large section dedicated to second-hand goods selected for their nostalgia value—old shop signs, neon art, antiques, amusing product samples, retro cameras, vintage photos, posters, and paintings, biker gear, and stacks of vinyl records and turntables. Some stuff is carefully
arranged in permanent stalls, while other vendors purvey their selections from open vans and cars. In Green Vintage, look for a vendor called Good Glasses, which specializes in true vintage shades. Officially this section of the market is named “Green Vintage”, and some people are even calling all of JJ Green by that name nowadays. Another legacy of the Railway Market is found further north in Nonthaburi. The Siam Gypsy Market is strung out along a 1.6 km roadside space that brings together guerrilla clothing stalls and minimalist drinking holes, along with much of the same merch found at Green Vintage. Rumour says gambler and businessman Chatchawal Kong-Udom invested 100 million baht into this Chatuchak satellite, perhaps because it’s right next to the new Bangson MRT Station, opening in August 2016 on the Purple Line. Like JJ Green, it’s open Thursday to Sunday evening from 5pm to midnight, although a few bars keep serving until after midnight on Saturday and Sunday. In both night market areas, bargaining is acceptable, although you can only expect to shave 15-25 percent off the asking price. Good spots to down a few drinks include Sathan Nee Ruam Mit, a cavernous shelter with minimal décor, cheap booze, and a boisterous postuni crowd. Another popular gathering place is two-story Clock Tower, which is decked out in worn retro furniture and bright colours, and features live bands. To reach JJ Green take BTS to Mo Chit station or the MRT to Chatuchak, then walk across Chatuchak Park till you see the signs. For Siam Gypsy Market, take the Chao Phraya Express boat to the Tha It Pier in Nonthaburi, and then hop a motorcycle taxi or tuk-tuk. JUNE 2016 | 33
SNAPSHOTS | highlight
Going Fin Free
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Sea changes in shark conservation
hen the world’s most famous chef, Gordon Ramsay, tried out shark fin soup for the first time at one of Taipei’s glitziest restaurants, as usual he did not mince any words: “It almost tastes of nothing, like plain glass noodles.” In the documentary he hosted on the subject called Shark Bait, the TV star is shown watching footage of an endangered hammerhead shark having its fins hacked off while thrashing around on the deck of a blood-slicked boat before being thrown back into the sea to bleed to death. He described it as “without doubt the worst act of animal cruelty I’ve ever seen.” Ramsay’s documentary has caused another wave in what has become a globe-spanning sea change in shark conservation. It’s a grave issue.
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The ravenous appetite of Chinese consumers for shark fin soup has driven many species to the brink of extinction. Every year, some 100 million sharks are finned and left for dead. To stop this barbaric practice, Fin Free’s Thailand chapter has teamed up with some of the leading hotel groups in the nation, like Cape and Kantary. To get onboard, the hotels must promise to remove shark fin soup from their menus. Launched for Chinese New Year of 2013, when the demand for the soup crests, the program has surged in popularity with 100 hotels and five restaurants taking the pledge. For them it’s a readymade CSR program that brings an element of goodwill with it. In return, Fin Free lists these do-gooders on their website. And for those who believe in the virtues of making Buddhist merit, the supporters
receive a karmic kickback to boot. As Seamas McCaffrey, the former campaign coordinator for the Thailand chapter, explained it, “The Fin Free brand started with a Canadian NGO called United Conservationists around 2009. I was leading this project for Freeland [a Bangkok-based NGO dealing with wildlife conservation and human trafficking issues] and we launched the project with them and two other groups.” For the young Australian and his comrades, this is a crusade with no cash incentives. All are volunteers. Seamas also pointed out how the NGO has harnessed the radiance of stars to shine the media spotlight on these dark issues. Well on her way to becoming a foodie celebrity, Duongporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava is the chef and co-owner of Bo.Ian restaurant in Bangkok which has won over the bangkok101.com
hearts and stomachs of judges and diners the world over. She is also a Fin Free Thailand Ambassador who has spoken out about the potentially catastrophic effects of losing one of the ocean’s top-tier predators. “Fewer sharks does not mean more fish—the killing of sharks destabilizes one of our most important food sources and is causing great imbalance to our oceans’ fragile ecosystems,” she said. Bo is right. According to a recent report by the Australian Institute of Marine Science (AIMS), “Healthy shark populations may aid the recovery of coral reefs whose futures are threatened throughout the globe.” After rainforests, coral reefs are the second most productive eco-systems on earth; they nurture the marine creatures that nourish humankind. And when a link on that food chain is snapped, as with the possible extinction of the shark, the herbivorous creatures like parrotfish will multiply a million-fold and destroy the reefs. Or so goes one doomsday scenario. Far from a tonic, shark fin soup, once consumed by Chinese emperors some 2,000 years ago and still seen as a status symbol because of its high price, can be injurious to human health. This is because of the high levels of mercury—a lethal heavy metal polluting waterways— sometimes found in it, notes one study mentioned on the Fin Free website. As Bo said, “The ruthless extermination of a species for a luxury food lacking nutritional value is simply unjustifiable.” Another point in their favour is that many shark species, Seamas explained, are scavengers. “They’re like the janitors and vultures of the underwater world. They clean up the dead creatures to keep the ocean clean.” Sharks, unfortunately, are not going to win any positive PR campaigns, or inspire any future Disney films with their cuteness. As Seamas said, “The joke among conservationists is that you would have to put panda masks on sharks to get the general public onboard with these campaigns.” For snorkelers and divers who like to get back to our genetic roots as sea creatures who first crawled bangkok101.com
Photo by Seamas McCaffrey
highlight | SNAPSHOTS
ashore many millennia ago, the true value and lure of sharks is in their streamlined beauty and sleek grace (like reef sharks), or for their freak-show weirdness factor (like hammerheads and the docile leopard sharks often seen in Thailand lazing on the seabed), or for their enormity (like whale sharks). The latter species, which can grow to the size of a city bus, are genial, plankton-gobbling goliaths. Take a survey of any group of divers about their most memorable plunges into the aquatic abyss and chances are they will mention encounters with whale sharks—or at least they used to. Now, with sightings of the world’s biggest fish dipping amid reports surfacing of a factory in China that butchers hundreds of them every year, tourism is also taking a hit. In what is another important another sea change in the conservation of sharks and manta rays, which are now being hunted for their gill rakers (a new culinary trend in China) marine scientists are estimating the millions of dollars in revenue streams that these creatures create for tourism the world over, not to mention all the jobs. Fin Free is hoping that their collaborations with hotel chains like Cape and Kantary will create a ripple effect among visitors. Getting
shark fin soup off the menu is a good starting point. The fins are ‘tasteless’ in more ways than one. As Gordon Ramsay said upon tasting the soup for the first time in Taipei, “The broth is delicious but it could have anything in there. It could have sweet corn in there, duck, pork belly. The one item spoiling that [broth] is the shark fin.”
Bizarre
Thailand
Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) and On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin Tales of Rock ‘n’ Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway (2016). Check out www.jimalgie.com for more. JUNE 2016 | 35
SNAPSHOTS | very thai
Animal Contests
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Betting on birds, beetles, cockerels and fish
any animal contest traditions in Thailand persist despite being regulated or banned due to cruelty, gambling or being ‘uncivilised’. Cock fancying and fighting fish have dedicated magazines, stag beetle duels embody resurgent northern pride, and Muslims dues endangered songbirds in cages. Enthralling to some, repugnant to others, pet pugilism never dies. Blood sports jar with Buddhist compassion. “Thais do contradictory things all the time,” says Anucha Thirakanont of the Thai Kadi Research Institute. “They release animals at temples, trying to compensate for killing animals for food, yet they torture them in contests.” Still, the aim is usually not to kill, but to see which combatant’s nerve holds. Southerner Thais set bull against bull, not against man, with no spears, sword or ritual death. Horns lock, nostrils snort, hoofs pad the bullring dirt until one simply runs away. Kwaang (Hercules Beetles) lock horns on a very different arena—a log of soft wood. Kwaang can be trained using their taste for sweet things and a metal whirligig enhances a combat mood sparked by pheromones from the female kept in a niche carved below them in the log. It may take 15 minutes before one kwaang wins or loses by lifting the other or fleeing twice. Eventually, the winner gets to breed. To stop the kwaang flying off during their five-month rainy-season lifespan, collectors tie their upper horn to a carved, toothpick-size stake. “The tether has to be beautiful—it’s like a boxer’s trunks,” says Niyom Chuenjaidee. “If a beetle has an eyecatching outfit, it can intimidate his
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 36 | JUNE 2016
opponent.” Many kwaang get named after politicians. A pastime for kids, kwaang contests remain a semi-covert adult sport at markets or gambling dens. A few are licensed, but police harass breeders. Gambling laws also affect pla kud (Siamese fighting fish). “The government allows breeding for conservation only,” says the owner of Pla Kud Paa shop in Chatuchak Weekend Market, named after Isaan’s favoured species. “Fish fighting is illegal. We don’t get backing because many people think we torture them. Central Thais prefer the pla kud luuk mor, Southerners raise a bigger crossbreed, while connoisseurs keep the less combative Chinese pla kud jeen in aquariums. Breeders rate the fish by aggressiveness, as well as the number, colour and beauty of the fins that make the genus (aptly named Betta splendens) so collectable. Pla kud take eight months to train and mature. “To make the fish fight we use its instinct,” the vendor adds. “To toughen it or improve swimming
skill, just stir the water. To make it more energetic, let it chase a female.” Poured into one jar, two fish will fight. Each individual nibbles its favoured spot, whether fin, tail, body or cheek. When one flees they’re separated and their wounds treated. “Mostly, we won’t let it die. We preserve the fish with special formulae to make them stronger,” says the vendor. That can include termite mound soil, dried leaves of banana or deer’s ear plant, and their favourite food: mosquito larvae. Contests of songbirds—in cages upon poles in a park—sound more benign, yet do risk the species’ survival given that 100,000 Thai collectors compete. Rare birds like bulbuls, barred doves and mynahs are sold for huge prices and kept under house eaves in exquisite cages—but lost to the wild. Such dilemmas are faced by other countries like Spain over bullfights: should animal contests be sanitised, banned or kept as heritage? Who’d like to bet on the outcome?
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com
Galleria Milano EATING THE ITALIAN WAY
open daily lunch 11:30 a.m 14:00 p.m. afternoon tea break 14:00 p.m. 18:00 p.m. dinner 18:00 p.m. 23:00 p.m.
Galleria Milano
ltalian Restaurant
66/4 Sukhumvit Rd., Soi 20 Mille Malle Millennium Residence
Klongtoei , Bangkok 10110 Tel. 02-6634988
ristorantegalleriamilano @gmail.com www.galleriamilanorestaurant.com
SNAPSHOTS | heritage
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heritage | SNAPSHOTS
Athletes & Architecture Heritage kept alive at Ratchadamnern and National Stadiums By Luc Citrinot
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oes sport cohabite well with heritage and history in Thailand? Creating sport facilities in the Thai capital has been often done to the detriment of older historical structures, such as at National Stadium for example. Few will indeed remember that prior to the development of this sport facility along Rama 1, the area was in fact a royal Palace. Deeply in love with urban planning of Britain, Prince Vajiravudh—the future King Rama VI—had a mansion built along this street (pictured right). With its turrets and brickwork, the structure took its inspiration from the neo-Tudor style
Historic
Bangkok
Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com
so much en vogue in Great Britain in the early years of the 20th century. However in 1936, the nationalist government of Prime Minister Field Marshal Plek Pibulsongkram let the palace being demolished to give way to the Supachalasai Stadium. The grand structure was then built in the new architectural style of the time, Art Deco. Giant modern looking garudas stand over the main façade of the stadium which is flanked by seven columns left and right of the main entrance. The severe grandiloquent architecture is largely inspired by the Nationalist style much favoured in the 1930s. From the original castle there remain only a few excavated pieces of stone and sculpture, which are now displayed in front of the Faculty of Sport building of Chulalongkorn University. Supachalasai Stadium was, at the time of its construction, the largest stadium in Thailand with a capacity of almost 20,000 spectators. Another pure Art Deco jewel, and a very interesting piece of architectural history, is Ratchadamnern (or Ratchadamnoen) Stadium, a facility dedicated to the sport of Muay Thai. Seen by Field Marshal Phibulsongram as an essential sport to highlight the virtue of courage and defense of Thai people, the sport received
what in 1940 could be considered as Bangkok’s most modern facility at that time. From the outside, the volume of the stadium looks rather small, but this is deceiving. It has a total capacity for 5,000 spectators and is today Bangkok’s last historical original Muay Thai facility. The construction was given in 1941 to an Italian company, Impresse Italiane All’ Estero-Oriente. When the foundation stone was laid on March 1, the B258,900 project then started. However, the project was halted due to lack of construction supplies and material transportation when to World War II began. The construction resumed only in 1945 under Thai management. Ratchadamnern Stadium became the last big construction site conducted by an Italian company in Thailand. Like at National Stadium, the main style of the building is late Art Deco with some bas-reliefs on the main façade resembling the friezes on nearby Democracy Monument. Today, the stadium, although in need of a necessary overhaul, still retains its classic atmosphere. The stadium is open four times a week— Monday, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays—and the fervour rises as the sun declines, and the first fight gets underway at around 6:30pm. JUNE 2016 | 39
SNAPSHOTS | making merit
Caring for Body, Mind, and Community
At Yogatique’s Karma class, you can contribute to local charities while strengthening your body and mind. By Julia Offenberger
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specially during the last decade, the practice of yoga seems to have had a major resurgence, and has become one of the most popular forms of exercise around the world. It might be the combination of physical and mental benefits that makes yoga such a beloved workout. Taking a moment to focus on yourself, while toning and stretching your muscles, is something for which there is hardly time in the busy and stressful world we live in. Another reason why yoga found such a big group of followers might be its wide array of styles. Ranging from traditional types, like Asthanga, and Hatha, to more modern styles including Bikram and Aerial Yoga, there seems to be a fit for everybody. With yoga studios continuously popping up around the city, Bangkok has definitely got in on this trend. In fact, there are about 120 studios in the city, making Bangkok the biggest urban market outside the US. But while all of them differ in styles, prices, and teachers, there is something special about Yogatique, a small studio on the curvy laneway known as Sukhumvit Soi 23. And what sets them apart from the rest in the city is their donation-based Karma classes. 40 | JUNE 2016
Located on the top floor of a small building, Yogatique is a kind of oasis of tranquillity amid the hustle and bustle of the busy downtown core. As soon as you enter the one-room studio you are welcomed by a calm and energetic atmosphere. The studio is relatively new, and was only opened last September by a Canadian couple— Minh and Max. Both are long-term yoga practitioners, and when asked why they decided to open their studio
in Bangkok, Minh replied, “It just seemed like a natural fit. I fell in love with the city on my first visit in 1999.” Her husband Max agreed and added, “Over the past ten years many paths were leading us to where we are now, and that this city seems to give each of us something special.” In terms of style, the philosophy behind Yogatique is traditional, but rather than focusing on just one type of yoga, the studio offers a mix of different styles including Vinqasa Flow, Hatha, Asthanga, Sivananda, and a Prenatal yoga class. Currently there are 10 teachers working at the studio, each of them teaching a uniquely different class according to the interpretation of their style. Depending on the class you choose, there may be chanting, a Dharma talk, focus on body alignment, or rock and roll music in the background. While most of this is more or less standard in other studios around the city, Yogatique’s weekly Karma classes are not. Karma—meaning action, work, or deed in Sanskrit—is created by a good action or intention given freely with no expectations. “The Karma class was born out of a project that I worked on while I was teaching in India,” Minh explains, “and although bangkok101.com
Cat yoga photos by Megan Rogers
making merit | SNAPSHOTS
a new concept to Bangkok, Karma classes are popular worldwide, and tie in with the Thai Buddhist idea of tam boon, or making merit.” The couple donates the studio to a different yoga teacher each week—every Sunday at 10am—to share their practice, giving newbies the possibility to gain experience in teaching to a wider audience. Also, the Karma class is based on donations only, with the proceedings going to local Bangkok charities. There is no minimum donation because the couple wants everyone to feel welcome. “Often bangkok101.com
people can’t afford the drop-in prices at larger studios,” Max explains. “In fact, the charity box is covered so no one can see how much people put into it.” Due to the positive response, Minh even added her own, slightly more difficult, Karma class on Sundays at 5pm. The charities the money goes to are usually small and often suggested by teachers or students. “We like to meet and know the people that we are making the donations to”, Max explains. Some of their favourite charities are the Peace Corps, Camp Glow initiative, a project which helps
young women world wide to cultivate business skills and supports them to become entrepreneurs in their own small communities, and the local cat shelter PAWS. Both Minh and Max are animal lovers and have even held ‘Yoga with Cats’ classes to raise funds. Plans of growth are definitely foreseen for the near future, but for now, Max and Minh are grateful how far they’ve come, and happy to offer new classes with new teachers, while watching the community grow. To find out more, visit the website, www.yogatiquebangkok.com JUNE 2016 | 41
TRAVEL |
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| TRAVEL
ROAM Dok Krachiao Blossom Festival
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An exciting explosion of natural colour!
ompared to temperate zones the changing of the seasons may be less obviously pronounced in this part of the world, but that only makes those changes that do take place all the more special. One such annual display of seasonal hues involves a pinkish-purple flower known as the Siam Tulip (or Dok Krachiao). This flower is one of the most admired blossoms in Thailand, and millions of them will brighten up the Northeast’s Chaiyaphum province from now until the end of August. During these upcoming months PA HIN NGAM NATIONAL PARK and SAI THONG NATIONAL PARK will be blanketed with an exceptional beauty, as these brightly coloured wild blooms take over the hills and valleys. Apart from sightseeing around the national parks, the local sectors in cooperation with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) also organize a range of fun-filled activities including trekking tours in the two national parks, concerts and local products to buy. And if you happen to be visiting Pa Hin Ngam National Park, try to make the 7 km journey to see the famous THEP PRATHAN waterfall, located in Tambon Ban Rai (Chaiyaphum province). It’s another of this region’s natural attractions—one which still remains unspoiled and pristine. You can even go swimming there.
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TRAVEL | upcountry now
SAMED IN LOVE MUSIC FESTIVAL
Palmy
June 4
Bring your sun-tan lotion and go wild on the beach at the 7th annual Samed in Love Music Festival. This year’s party is going with the theme of ‘Bohemian Beach Camp’, and the festival gets underway at 5pm on Koh Samed’s beautiful Sai Keaw Beach. The event will feature performances by various DJs, as well as Thai bands including Scrubb, Tattoo Colour, Paradox, Somkiat, Big Ass, Palmy, Apartment Khunpa, and Slot Machine. Visit the official Facebook page to get more event related details (www.facebook.com/ samedinlove). Tickets are available for B1,500 each. www.thaiticketmajor.com
SONGKLA SEAFOOD FESTIVAL Until June 5
A visit to the city of Songkla, in Southern Thailand, simply wouldn’t be complete without a sampling of the area’s famous local seafood. And during the annual Songkla Seafood Festival, the cornucopia of underwater edibles attracts visitors by the thousands. Diners can feast on freshly cooked local seafood delights such as lobster, crab, squid, and myriad of different kinds of freshly caught fish. The festival takes place at Samila Beach, and also features a ‘Miss Samila’ beauty contest, the sale of local handicraft products, and a variety of folk art shows.
RAYONG FRUIT FESTIVAL June 9-15
Rayong is one of the most well-known provinces when it comes to fruit production in Thailand. It’s no surprise then that the annual Rayong Fruit Festival has a wealth of activities for visitors, such as fruit growing competitions, eating competitions, the ‘Miss Fruit Gardener’ beauty contest, musical performance and much, much more. OTOP products from Rayong are also on sale at discounted prices during this festival. Head to the Taphong Fruit Central Market, on Sukhumvit Rd, to get in on the fun.
SUKHOTHAI LIGHT & SOUND SHOW July 1
Although this event doesn’t actually take place till the 1st of July, make plans now to attend the Sukothai Light and Sound Show which will be held at Wat Sasri inside Sukhothai Historical Park. This evening event will celebrate the glorious history and culture of this ancient Thai capital, which is a focal point of national heritage in Thailand. The collection of cultural ruins and historical records in the town of Sukothai has earned this site recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors can listen to the narration in several languages including English, Japanese, French and German. Admission to the show is free. 4 4 | JUNE 2016
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FLY DIRECT TO CENTRAL VIETNAM With the commencement of direct flights between Bangkok and Danang, it is now the perfect time to explore the rich culture, cuisine and history of Central Vietnam. Whether it be an exploration of the three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, a Vietnamese cooking class or an ATV ride across pristine beach, a stay at Angsana Lang Cô presents a unique adventure. If doing nothing is your thing, the 300 metres swimming pool or award winning spa awaits. For more information or to make a reservation at Angsana Lang Cô, Central Vietnam, contact us at reservations-langco@angsana.com or +84 54 3695 800.
MAURITIUS • MOROCCO • MALDIVES • THAILAND • LAOS • VIETNAM • INDIA • INDONESIA • AUSTRALIA • CHINA
SENSING THE MOMENT angsana.com
TRAVEL | upcountry escape
Riding High in Hua Hin Kitesurfing has added texture to this beach town’s picture-perfect horizon By Craig Sauers
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he rewards of travelling to Hua Hin are like those you might get from walking around your neighbourhood on a lazy Sunday afternoon. There are those familiar Hua Hin sights on the surface, triggering pangs of nostalgia: military ships and fishing boats anchored at sea, couples walking along a bright white beach, miles and miles of brilliant open space punctuated by hotels and hills. But upon closer inspection, the kind afforded by a slow and quiet stroll, this destination reveals a “sportier” side, one that you may have never noticed before.
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In the afternoon, as the sun starts its slow descent behind Hua Hin’s green wall of rolling hills, the wind picks up speed, producing small whitecaps on the wide, blue sea. At this time of day, brightly coloured kites fill the sky like seagulls circling the water. Athletes clad in Lycra swimwear and safety vests, controlling what look a lot like snowboards, scuttle along the surface of the sea. Nowadays, there are seemingly hundreds of kitesurfers patrolling the waters each day, calling for attention from the beach’s endless parade of passersby.
Over the past fifteen years, kitesurfing—often called kiteboarding, or “kiting” for short—has soared in popularity in Hua Hin, making the sight of it as iconic as the ponies on the beach or the seafood and sizzling woks at the night market. From February to May, when the warm wind blows in from the south and the beach is wide and water shallow, Hua Hin is an ideal place to try the sport, says Jerry Han of Huahinkitesurfing, a branch of kiteboardingasia (KBA), Thailand’s first kitesurfing school established in 2001. But the conditions are favourable bangkok101.com
upcountry escape | TRAVEL
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boutique hotel of the same name, on the same property. “This is a peaceful place, without much noise, and the movement of the athletes [complements] that image.” The hotel, which enjoys isolation from Hua Hin’s confining alleys and ceaseless din, offers 40 rooms, all of which include access to an infinity pool that divides the property. Boasting ISO-14001 Environment Management System (EMS) certification and refreshingly committed to incorporating nature’s bounty into design elements, Let’s Sea remains one of the resort town’s more rewarding stays. Next door, the Amari Hua Hin’s renovated Shoreline Beach Club offers an upscale venue at which to enjoy food and drinks while meditating over the action at sea. Shoreline is more of an open-air affair than its neighbour,
Photo by Egor Kataev
paddleboards, a sport that’s rising in popularity in Thailand, especially where waters are still. Yet for those who prefer to soak up the scenery, there’s joy in simply watching the kites (and athletes) fly. In lieu of a fiery setting sun, which instead gently fades over shoulders on Hua Hin’s east-facing beaches, kitesurfing provides fluid, often electrifying scenery to drink in over a sundowner. For as perfect a perch as any in Hua Hin, head to Let’s Sea. The timeless restaurant on the shoreline doubles as a late afternoon destination for high tea. Those so inclined can also order wine from a list that includes dozens of foreign labels, as well as house pours from Hua Hin Hills, a leading local winery. “Kitesurfing matches the destination of Hua Hin,” says Srayut Ekahitanonda, CEO of Let’s Sea, the
Photo by Egor Kataev
for catching some air as early as November since, throughout the dry season, the wind averages between 15 and 20 knots. Away from the pier, the water is free of rocks and, of course, sharks. Even the jellyfish, which frequently wash up on shore and linger in the shallows, can’t sting through Lycra. “Anyone can learn [kitesurfing]. It’s a great full-body exercise, too,” says Han, who adds that it takes beginners between three and five lessons, each two-and-a-half hours long, to be able to ride confidently. David Ford, a former instructor in Pak Nam Pran who now works in New Zealand, echoes the sentiment, although he believes that beginners should devote about two months of consistent kiting in order to do it alone without fear of wiping out on the beach. “It doesn’t require a lot of physical strength,” says Ford. “There are a lot of individual pieces—learning to balance, managing the board—but when you put them all together, you could fly the kite using two fingers on each hand. You just need to build a base, find a platform from which to start. You’ll get pulled through and dragged across the ocean, but the first time you stand and glide for 100 feet, you’ll think, ‘That’s it. This is stunning.’” What’s more, kiting lends itself to learning other sports: surfing, wakeboarding, snowboarding, and even paragliding. And, not unlike longdistance running, even though kiting is an individual pursuit, communities often form around the sport. “It does have a communal feel,” says Ford. “You find a lot of kiting clubs [where the sport is popular].” One such community is alive and well in Hua Hin, where Huahinkitesurfing welcomes all types of riders. Han advises those who want to try the sport for the first time to start with one lesson to learn about safety, equipment, and basic kite control. Those who want to go in-depth, even learning to become instructors, can enrol in one of the advanced programmes. Beyond beginner and advanced lessons, the company also offers packages for travellers on holiday, including airport pick-up and accommodation, as well as fitness classes on stand-up
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TRAVEL | upcountry escape
Shoreline Beach Club
Huahinkitesurfing
Let’s Sea Hua Hin
with a pool and deck set up against the shore so that, whether the tide is high or low, the sea always seems close enough to touch. In the evening, plunk down by the pool, order a cocktail or some of the restaurant’s small Thai dishes, and take in the serenade of Thai musicians strumming guitars against the lapping waves. When the day’s action is over, head out of the beach club and back up the road to the quaint Cicada Market (open Fri-Sun from 4pm10pm). This market is distinguished from the other, busier night market in the centre of town thanks to its abundance of local art, live concerts and theatre performances, and room to roam. It’s a better option for those easily irritated by close quarters or chaotic spaces, and perfect for travellers who want to shop for a unique handmade souvenir, or just browse the usual trinkets, tapestries, paintings, and ceramics on display. While the Khao Takiab community offers a slice of solace, one of the better spots to take in kitesurfing is found on
a central section of the beach off Hua Hin 71, the small square-shaped soi with an abundance of budget hotels. The beach here has managed to retain an air of privacy despite the unending growth of the city around it, thanks in part to its proximity to villas owned by Thai élite. This part of the beach is also near the epicentre of kitesurfing in the region, including the home base of Huahinkitesurfing, which is found on Hua Hin 83. During low tide, the sand extends hundreds of metres toward the shallow silvery sea, and, just off to the south, athletes dance across the waves with their boards as their kites swoop and dive. In 2010 and 2011, when the city of Hua Hin played host to the
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international kitesurfing World Cup, this was prime real estate. Although the World Cup hasn’t returned since then, there are plenty of local competitions throughout the high season. And even without competitions, the action never settles. A good chunk of the kitesurfing community is made up of young local athletes, according to Han, and they flock to the water whenever the sun is shining. So grab a drink and some snacks from the nearest mini-mart and mark your territory on the sand. This is what makes a trip to Hua Hin special—its lively side remains neatly wrapped within an undeniably tranquil setting, where discoveries are often straightforward yet no less enriching.
Getting in on the action Prices at Huahinkitesurfing start at B4,000 for a day-long introductory lesson with one of the school’s instructors, and go as high as B43,000 for a 14-night holiday package, including nine days of kitesurfing lessons. www.huahinkitesurfing.com
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TRAVEL | weekend-getaway
Thanyapura Sports Hotel Enjoy tropical training sessions at this sprawling sports club and vacation property in Phuket.
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here’s more to Phuket than sand and surf, which is evident the moment one checks into the Thanyapura Sports Hotel. Located just a 20 minute drive southeast of the airport—right in the center of the northern half of Phuket island—this vast vacation property is surrounded by a mix of sloping green hills and forested mountainsides. But the star attractions here are the hotel’s professional level sports facilities, which include both an Olympic-sized 50m lap pool, and a 25m training pool. International swim teams come here to train in the off season, but the pools are open to all guests and you can even book time with one of Thanyapura’s expert swim coaches if you want some pointers on how to improve your underwater skills. Just past the swimming pools lie a pair of high-tech indoor gyms (one with a Kinesis wall), a yoga studio, a spinning studio, and a combination 500m running track and full size football/rugby pitch. But the busiest facilities most days are the six massive tennis courts. In fact, in October of 2014 tennis superstar Maria Sharapova spent some time training on Thanyapura’s courts (there’s even a signature smoothie named after her in the hotel’s Booster Bar). And, as at the pool, expertly trained coaches are available at all the facilities if you want to book a one-on-one or a group training session. After all those workouts guests can get breakfast, lunch and/or dinner at DiVine, the hotel’s main restaurant. Overlooking the Olympic training pools, the large open kitchen here serves up daily breakfast and dinner buffets—using fresh ingredients from Thanyapura’s own certified organic farm—but guests can also order all-day meals from the à la carte menu. The selection is as varied as it is delicious, and each item on the menu includes
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By Bruce Scott
a numeric breakdown of the calories, protein, carbs, and fat the dish contains (as well as symbols alerting the presence of nuts, dairy, and wheat). But along with the focus on sports, attention is also paid to offering wellappointed, comfortable rooms. My 32 sq.m ground floor Deluxe Room, in the hotel’s Pool Wing, features a king-size bed, flat screen TV, WiFi connection, and a two sink vanity, but it also includes a few unique “sporty” touches, such as a pivoting bicycle hook in the front hall closet (for mountain bikers), and almost a dozen specialty sports stations amongst the satellite TV channels.
The Pool Wing consists of 77 units—which surround a luxurious marble swimming pool—while the nearby 38 room Garden Wing is where you can indulge in some deep meditation at the Thanyapura Mind Centre. The serene atmosphere in this wing is quite a contrast to the hotel’s sportier areas, where more often than not driving techno music provides a soundtrack to your workout.
Thanyapura Sports Hotel 120/1 Moo 7, Thepkasattri Rd., Phuket Tel: 076 336 000 www.thanyapura.com
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From Farm To Table By Chef Jean-Michel Lorain Michelin star recipient Chef Jean-Michel Lorainreturns with his exclusive culinary creations made with produce from the Royal Project Foundation at J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain.
Discover delectable organic products from farm to table including crayfish, pumpkin, cabbage and eggplant.
8-course menu priced at 4,499 THB net per person excluding beverages and available for dinner from June 2-4, 2016.
For reservations, please call 02 119 4899 or email reserve@jaime-bangkok.com
J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain at U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn District, Bangkok www.jaime-bangkok.com
TRAVEL | over the border
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over the border | TRAVEL
Over the Hills Where the Spirits Fly Mind and mountain meet during a hop around Tibet’s holy Mount Kailash By Joe Cummings/CPA Media
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n Asia, no mountain is more venerated than 6,638 meter Mount Kailash, an isolated peak in far western Tibet, part of the Trans-Himalayas, which run parallel to, and north of, the Himalayas. Four religions make it the mythological center of their theology. For Hindus, it’s the home of Shiva and his wife Parvati, who enjoyed a 10,000 year sexual union here. Buddhists see the earthly reflection of Meru, a mountain that reaches underground to the lowest of hells and ascends to the highest heaven. To followers of Bonpo, Tibet’s animist, pre-Buddhist faith, the mountain was the earthly arrival point of their primeval god Tonpa Shenrab. The Jains, meanwhile, believe that this is the place Rishabha, the first of 24 founding tirtankharas, achieved enlightenment. Although it only takes three days to make the 52 km circumambulation (though many Tibetans do it all in one go), Kailash remains one of the most demanding pilgrimages in the world. Even in the relatively mild May-through-October open season, a hard weather front adds hypothermia to the list of risks. Within hours of landing in Lhasa, I feel lightheaded and short of breath. At 3,600 meters, the atmosphere here contains 68 percent as much oxygen as I’m used to breathing at sea level, and at the kora’s highest point, nearly 6,000 meters, the oxygen will drop to 40 percent of normal intake. Like all foreign visitors to Tibet who wish to travel outside Lhasa, I’ve joined a guided tour. In a small bus that becomes our 13-member group’s second home over the next bangkok101.com
two weeks, we leave Lhasa and roll southwest through a patchwork of jagged rock hills, sand dunes, rivers, pastures and lakes, under a striking, blue sky. The road counts hundreds of extreme hairpin turns—and views of five glacier-encrusted peaks that, at over 8,000 meters, are among the top 10 highest in the world. From the one-street Tibetan town of Tingri, the bus climbs the steep road through the Rongbuk Valley to the 5,200 meter Everest Base Camp, only four km from the Nepal border. Along the way we can see the top of mighty Everest playing hide and seek with passing clouds. After a brief tea break in one of the permanent camp tents, we set off
on a four km hike to the staging point for Everest climbers, beyond which no vehicles are permitted. Our Tibetan guide, a Jackie Chan-lookalike named Lotse, takes us on an off-road shortcut through rocky chasms and gravelly slopes. At lower elevations, the route would be only moderately challenging. But here the added altitude makes four km feel like 15. The surrounding Himalayan beauties, the occasional rustic chorten (stupa), and profound silence divert attention away from my over-taxed lungs. I spot a small herd of wild Tibetan antelope, an animal threatened with extinction by hunters who sell its gossamer-thin undercoat to shahtoosh weavers in Pakistan and India.
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TRAVEL | over the border We continue the long ride to Kailash along China National Highway 219, the highest roadway in the world and one that climbs over five mountains taller than 5,000 meters and passes 44 glaciers. It was completely paved only in 2013. Darchen is our last overnight stop before the kora. Over yak curry in a Tibetan tea house, Lotse explains that we need to pack everything we won’t need on the trail into bags to be carried by yaks that will follow behind us. Any supplies we need while trekking we must carry ourselves. After packing a light daypack with nuts, chocolate bars, sunscreen, blister gels, and a water bottle, I climb under thick Chinese quilts in the unheated room I share with a German trekker. I’m both excited and apprehensive about the next three days. I hope the weather holds, and that I’ll be able to handle walking 52 km at elevations between 5,000 and 6,000 meters. Day one begins well, as we start up the kora path across the sandy Barkha plain with views of high peaks
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in Nepal and India to the south and southwest. The weather is sunny and crisp, and soon the path is winding along Lha-chu River past meadows shorn short by grazing yaks. Around four km in, the trail climbs a ridge for an inspiring first view of Kailash’s southern flank. As the valley opens below we come to Tarboche, a lofty prayer-flag pole first erected in 1681 and still renovated annually. We settle into walking rhythms that serendipitously divide our group into clusters of two or three. I find myself walking alongside Sonja, from Utrecht, on the first day because our respective paces are similar. Halfway along the trail, my left knee decides it’s had enough hiking for the day and begins to throb. Unfortunately, we have four hours left. After an 11 km day we reach Dirapuk Monastery and a primitive guesthouse where we spend the night. As Lotse and the yak driver prepare noodles for our evening meal, I compare notes on the day’s hike with my fellow trekkers. Spirits are high,
but everyone knows the next day’s 22-kilometer trek up and over the highest point on the kora will be the real test. I fall asleep hoping that the good weather will last, and that my knee won’t get any worse. At 6 am, after a breakfast of boiled egg and Tibetan flatbread, we set off on day two in total darkness. Almost immediately the stony trail begins its steep ascent towards Dolma-la Pass. We zigzag among rocks and boulders that seem to increase in size the higher we climb. By 8 am the sun is up, and we’re nearing the top of the pass. Luckily the pain in my knee subsided overnight, but the exertion at this altitude is so intense that I have to stop to catch my breath every 10 or 20 meters. In the Demchog Tantra, Kailash manifests the Mandala of Highest Bliss, but at this point it feels more like the Mandala of Lowest Hell. On cue, I come upon Shiva-tsal, a 5,330 meter rock mass where true pilgrims suffer symbolic death as they enter the realm of Yama, Lord of the Dead. Here pilgrims leave a lock of hair, a drop of blood, a piece of jewelry or other vestige of their everyday lives to represent leaving this life behind. I spot packs of Chinese cigarettes and discarded clothing among the karmic debris, to which I add a Dunlop Big Stubby guitar pick. A stiff wind is whipping down the mountain into my face and, just to drive the point home, it begins to snow. It comes down in tiny dense balls that bounce off my parka and off the rock face under my boots. The snow is so icy it refuses to stick to anything. Maybe it’s hail; I’m not sure. Twice I think I’ve made the top of the pass, only to realize it’s a false summit. After another hour of laboured climbing, I’m finally standing at the top of Dolma-la Pass, where the goddess Tara (Dolma in Tibetan) opens her merciful arms and the snow stops whirling around me. I feel tired and exuberant at the same time. In Hindu-Buddhist terms, I’ve been reborn in the same life with a clean karmic bill. As I stagger over the 5,636 meter glacial ridge forming the pass, I’m tempted to take a break. But the 600 meter ascent is enough to induce acute mountain sickness if I bangkok101.com
over the border | TRAVEL
stick around. I have to keep moving. I stumble down the precipitous 400 meter descent to the valley floor while attempting to stay vertical on the slippery, and at times treacherous, rock-and-gravel inclines. At several points, the trail splits into honeycombs of narrow footpaths through scrub and stones the size of baseballs. When this happens, I stop and survey the geography, then pick what appears to be the most direct line between me and Aksobhya Valley ahead. Now and then a small group of Tibetan pilgrims pass me in either direction, smiling and intoning “tashidelek”, the all-purpose Tibetan greeting and farewell. Even little grannies in sandals negotiate the rough trails faster than I do. The further I get from the pass, the more welcoming Aksobhya Valley becomes. Vast herds of yak nibble on lichen fields alongside the river. A large raven flies parallel to my route for a while. The valley is so quiet that I can hear the raven’s wings rustle like silk as it soars overhead. Later I bangkok101.com
read that Tibetans believe the bird to be a manifestation of Mahakala, ‘Great Black One’, a protector deity in Vajrayana Buddhism. Looking down at me as it flies past, the raven seems so at home in this beautifully bleak environment. I feel like a lonely spaceman on an alien planet. After nine and a half hours, I spot a small monastery clinging to a slope. A hundred meters below the monastery stands a cluster of stone and mud-brick buildings. I detour from the trail to investigate, and almost immediately run into Don. He’s the first member of our group I’ve seen since early morning, and I’m overjoyed
to learn that this is the end of today’s long trek. The slower members of the group straggle in after 11 or 12 hours on the trail. The best part of day three’s 11 km hike is a gentle climb through a cobalt- and rust-streaked canyon high above the river. Another hour through comparatively tame countryside, and we’re back in Darchen. My fellow trekkers and I toast the completion of the kora over a Nepali curry dinner in a Tibetan tea house. To help prevent altitude sickness, I haven’t had a drink in nearly 20 days, but tonight I’m delighted to pop a tall bottle of Lhasa beer.
Getting There Lhasa can be reached by air via daily nonstop flights from Chengdu and Kunming on China Eastern Airlines (www.flychinaeastern.com). Both China Eastern and Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com) fly between Bangkok and Kunming daily. Tibet Vista Travel (www.tibettravel.org), an agency based in Chengdu, is adept at arranging Tibet Travel Permits, Kailash permits and trekking packages online or in Chengdu.
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ART
| ART & CULTURE
The Journey of Coffee The Journey of Life An exhibition of unique art pieces created in cooperation with nature
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he group exhibition entitled THE JOURNEY OF COFFEE – THE JOURNEY OF LIFE, put on by a group of Thai artists and indigenous peoples from the mountains in Northern Thailand, is about the art of living in harmony with nature. This way of living will be demonstrated and presented in a variety of different forms, from printed canvases and woven wall hangings, to indigenous music and coffee inspired art. Cotton creations are also important components of the exhibition. Natural cotton flowers have been manually collected, spun, dyed and woven to create different works of art. Each individual yarn creation represents different lives and spirits. There will be blankets, bags, and wall hangings on display that deliver the timely message of sustainability from generation to generation. Another important component of the exhibition is, of course, coffee. Stories and scents from the forests are articulated through coffee art, showing the transformation of shade-grown coffee cherries to finished ecological coffee. The resulting fragrances and tastes represent the richness of Doi Indhanond, the highest mountain in Thailand (located in the Chom Thong district of Chiang Mai province). Rather than focus on a single artistic element, the group of artists behind the exhibition have focused on a holistic approach to communicate the various cultures of the Northern Thai people. The aim is to engage all of the viewers’ senses—not just sight, but also touch, smell and sound. You’ll never look at a cup of coffee the same way again. THE JOURNEY OF COFFEE – THE JOURNEY OF LIFE runs from JUNE 4-26 in the Rotunda Gallery & Garden Gallery at the NEILSON HAYS LIBRARY, 195 Surawong Rd (BTS Sala Daeng). Viewing hours are Tuesday to Sunday, from 9:30am to 5pm. For more information call 02 233 1731. www.neilsonhayslibrary.com
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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions
MAY 27-JUNE 26 TRK and Sadam Yoshizawa Goja Gallery Café
5/2 Pridi Banomyong Soi 3, Soi 71 Sukhumvit Rd. Viewing hours: Wed-Mon, 12pm-12am Tel: 085 848 7576 | www.facebook.com/gojaphrakanong
A collaborative exhibit featuring Teerayut Thun Puchpen (TRK), an artist who specializes in illustration, paint, and identity design, and Sadam Yoshizawa, who up until now has focused on creating artworks mainly for skateboard companies, clothing brands and shops. TRK creates art for clients with maximum visual appeal in mind, often adding unique creative flourishes. Sadam, who lives in the city of Sendai, Miyagi prefecture, produces countless illustrations utilizing crosshatching and pointillism, and regularly exhibits in both solo and group shows.
Until JUNE 30 Urban Nature Koi Art Gallery
245, Sukhumvit Soi 31 (BTS Asok Station) Viewing hours: Tues-Sun, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 662 3218 | www.koiartgallerybangkok.com
This exhibition showcases the latest abstract artworks of Thai artist Manoon Khunlor. The classic story of a young man who leaves his hometown and travels to the big city in hopes of finding something more, serves as the inspiration for these works. The artist paints the essence of his personal journey from Isaan to Bangkok, showing the serenity of rural landscapes and the contrasting chaotic and addictive life of the city—seeking to showcase how people react in these two spaces. With skilled brushstrokes, Manoon captures the wandering soul’s hesitancy, desires, and experiences.
JUNE 2-30 Exhibit Honouring Senior Leading Artist National Gallery
4 Chao Fah Rd (Exhibition Room 5-8) Viewing hours: Wed-Sun, 9am-4pm Tel: 02 281 2224 | facebook.com/TheNationalGalleryBangkok
The National Gallery presents a new show entitled Honoring Exhibition Project for Senior Leading Artist of the Year 2016—and the artist being honoured this year is Vichoke Mukdamanee. This project honours a senior leading artist who has tirelessly created prominent artwork, and has been held once a year at the National Gallery since 1998. This upcoming exhibition will showcase not only the artworks of Professor Mukdamanee, but also the concepts behind them. The show will no doubt be of extreme interest to Thai art academics, students, and all art lovers in general. 58 | JUNE 2016
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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE
JUNE 9-JULY 10 Under the Lanna Culture Ardel Gallery of Modern Art
99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd. (Km 10.5) Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10.30am-7pm (Sundays till 5.30pm) Tel: 02 422 2092 | www.ardelgallery.com
This latest exhibition, entitled Under the Lanna Culture, showcases the work of Sompop Sangprom, and presents oil paintings on linen that tell the story of the serene lifestyle and culture of the people in the north of Thailand. The artist portrays these ideas through images of women, children, local musical instruments, flowers, greenery, and general scenes of the area and architectures of Buddhism—all of which help refine the peaceful artistic identity of the region. This visually striking exhibition should be of interest to all those keen on learning more about Lanna culture.
JUNE 10-JULY 31 Save Thai Buffalo YenakArt Villa
269 Soi Prasart Suk, Yenakart Rd (MRT Lumpini) Viewing hours: Mon-Fri, 2pm-7pm Tel: 02 235 9800 I www.yenakartvilla.com
As a way of celebrating their one year anniversary, YenakArt Villa is presenting all 10 photographs from the series Save Thai Buffalo by Maitree Siriboon. The series also features images of the albino buffalo the artists is raising in his home-town, painted with the natural colours that are used in India for decorating sacred cows. His humorous series pays tribute to the animal which helped build Thailand into a rice-farming nation, and therefore into the modern nation it is today. In addition to the photos Maitree will also exhibit some of his mosaic artworks—including The Isaan Tree.
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ART & CULTURE | book
King Maybe
Cool casting turns up the heat in this hot thriller By Jim Algie
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eaders of Thailand-based novels will know the name Timothy Hallinan from his splendid and ongoing series of Poke Rafferty thrillers set in Bangkok, including the Edgar-nominated The Queen of Patpong and the most recent entry, The Hot Countries. But Hallinan has another series going that is also worthy of your time, cash and eyestrain. The Junior Bender series follows LA’s savviest and mouthiest burglar on a string of escapades where hijinks and heart-in-mouth suspense vie for supremacy. Just released, King Maybe is the fifth entry in this series. The opening chapters should come with a medical warning: anyone suffering from hypertension should not take the plunge into this maelstrom of mounting anxiety. Rather than just stick to the usual plot synopsis full of suspense-killing revelations, I’d like to underline one of the strengths of this comical crime caper: a cast list that rivals Carl Hiaasen and Elmore Leonard for tics and zany inventiveness. The movie producer: Hallinan takes something of a stereotype, the burned out Hollywood producer with a nose for cocaine and an eye for young hookers, and then molds him into something else entirely: a sympathetic character set on redeeming himself for producing so much commercial crud by coming up with a script for a more genuine and more artistic movie. Hallinan has worked in the film business before. He knows the ins, outs and trapdoors of this world. For anyone interested in the wheeling and double-dealing of movie moguls, as well as all sorts of interesting asides, like how the Chinese market has become crucial to the blockbuster’s survival, these parts are scenestealers. Without giving the plot away 60 | JUNE 2016
let’s just say that Jake and Junior have unfinished business. The thug: We first encounter Maury “the Slugger” after Junior has been hired to steal a vintage stamp from his mansion. Much of the fun and realism in this novel comes from the combination of molar-grinding suspense welded to dungeon-dark guffaws. Thus Junior almost needs to be fitted for an adult diaper when the goon returns home humming “Achey Breaky Heart”, while he is in the midst of stealing the stamp. And that’s when the reader learns that Maury’s weapon of choice is a baseball bat. The advertising copy for the bat plays up its light swing that has “the best possible feel.” As Junior thinks to himself, one of many wisecracks in the novel, “I was pretty sure that the best possible feel was a one-sided experience.” The fence: Stinky Tetweiler is Junior’s fence for the stolen stamp and the scion of a family who got rich off the perfume strip. With his faux
British accent and taste for Filipino houseboys, Stinky makes a good foil and verbal jousting partner for Junior. His helter-skelter taste in architecture has Junior musing about the special side effects of Hollywood on the city’s houses. “Los Angeles architecture is like one of those 1950s horror movies in which radioactivity produces horrifying mutations.” But Stinky's world has gone to rot. He’s on the run too, and muttering the Lord’s Prayer in Tagalog. The lover: What’s a crime novel without a mysterious femme fatale to supply a possibly fatal distraction? Neutered. That’s what. Enter Ronnie Bigelow. She’s been Junior’s girlfriend for the past eight months though he is still not sure who she is or where she comes from. All he does know for certain is that the way she drives a getaway car makes it seem unlikely that her CV included any time selling Avon products. The escort: Casey is a small-town girl from Texas who’s arrived in Tinsel Town to become a movie starlet. But the only acting she’s really been doing is in the bedrooms of her rich customers. Once again the author has taken a stock-in-trade character and remodeled her into someone much more interesting and sympathetic by adding a few quirks, like that Texas accent and a penchant for quips, saying about Jake’s coke habits, “Guy’s got a nose he could vacuum a cruise ship with,” which just goes to show that even the bit-part players in this criminal romp are cleverly drawn. King Maybe: I hate to play too coy, but let’s just say that the titular character is one of Hollywood’s top guns whose hits are worth billions and his misses are catastrophic for anyone who tries to thwart his epic-scale ambitions. bangkok101.com
cinema scope | ART & CULTURE
Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott
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uring a private dinner at Paste restaurant last month, American action movie hero Steven Seagal—sporting a freshly inked Thai tattoo between his shoulder blades—revealed to Bangkok 101 some news about his upcoming plans to make two films back to back here Lincoln
Steven Seagal
in Thailand over the next two months. He’s currently scouting locations in Bangkok and northern Thailand, and although he did share some secrets regarding the titles and plots for each flick, we promised him we’d keep that under wraps... for now! However we can reveal the films will most definitely feature plenty of Muay Thai action. It’s also been reported that Segal—who previously shot the film Belly of the Beast in Thailand in 2003—wants to launch a production company in the kingdom, which would be great news for the Thai film industry in general. In other film news there are some very interesting film screenings going on this month in Bangkok, many of which are taking place at The Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Thailand (FCCT). On Monday June 6th don’t miss Lincoln, the 2012 bio-pic directed by Steven Spielberg starring Daniel Day-Lewis as US president Abraham Lincoln. This is an important film about freedom and democracy, and the screening is especially timely in light of the upcoming US elections. This event is supported by the US Embassy, who will provide Californian wines and American snacks. In addition, American Ambassador HE Glyn Davies will be present. bangkok101.com
On Monday June 13th the FCCT presents an exclusive screening of two Oscar-winning documentary films by Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy, the acclaimed Pakistani film-maker. A Girl in the River: The Price of Forgiveness (2105) looks at honour killings in Pakistan, and tells the story of Saba, a 19-year-old Pakistani woman who was shot and left for dead by her father and uncle after she eloped with a man her family considered inferior in class. In the director’s earlier film, Saving Face (2012), two women—both victims of an acid attack—struggle for justice and healing. This 40-min doc follows London-based Pakistani plastic surgeon Dr. Mohammad Jawad as he journeys to Pakistan to perform reconstructive surgery on survivors of acid violence. Both films are 40 minutes long.
Embassy of Switzerland, who will provide Swiss wine and cheeses. The Swiss Ambassador HE Ivo Sieber will also be present. For ticket price information about all the abovementioned FCCT screenings, check the official website (www.fccthai.com). In other film event news, the Goethe Institute of Thailand will be presenting two screenings of the German film The Age of Cannibals (2014). On Sunday June 19 at 1pm there will be a presentation at the Thai Film Archive (Salaya), and then on Tuesday June 21 at 6pm there will be a screening at the Cinemateque of Film Archive, on the second floor of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), located near the National Stadium BTS station. The film, directed by Johannes Naber, follows three successful business consultants as they tour the industrial centres of the world as front-line soldiers of global capitalism to enforce what has been deemed efficient elsewhere. The film will be shown in German language with English subtitles, and admission to both screenings is free. Finally, on Thursday June 9th at 9pm the I Hate Pigeons X Documentary Club (34/2 Soi Sribumphen, Rama IV Rd) presents Cartel Land (2015) by filmmaker Matthew Heineman. The doc examines the the state of the ongoing drug problem along the U.S.-Mexican border, with a focus on vigilante groups fighting the Mexican drug cartels. Tickets are B120 which includes a bottle of Tuatara Beer or ACE cider (limited amount). Find out more at: www.facebook.com/ ihatepigeonsbangkok
A Girl in the River Finally, on Monday June 20th the FCCT presents The Wonders (2014), directed by Alice Rohrwacher. The film tells the unique story about a traditional beekeeper’s family whose life gets disrupted when a reality TV show comes to shoot in the neighbourhood. This screening is supported by the
The FCCT
The Penthouse, Maneeya Center 518/5 Ploenchit Rd. www.fccthai.com
Goethe-Institut Thailand
18/1 Soi Goethe, Sathorn 1 Bangkok 10120 www.goethe.de/ins/th/en/ban.html J U N E 2016 | 61
ART & CULTURE | special report
62 | JUNE 2016
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special report | ART & CULTURE
Portrait of a Region The National Gallery Singapore has a dual mission—winning over the people, and elevating a cast of virtual unknowns. By Max Crosbie-Jones
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f all the gifts a sovereign nation can bestow upon its people, a national gallery is among the most valuable. Done right, it’s a gift that keeps on giving. Lose yourself in front of paintings— windows into lost worlds—for hours, days, or however long one chooses. Time travel into the drawing rooms, salons and artist studios of old epochs. Grapple with the themes and narratives central to your nation’s story. Cast off the shackles of the mundane and sojourn amid the sublime. The Dutch and British realised their power to inspire and instil a sense of pride and belonging in the early 19th century, while the Americans, Indians and Australians did the same at different points over the last hundred years. But what about Southeast Asia? While Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines all have national galleries, the Singaporeans suddenly and emphatically lead the way (as of late November 2015) now the red tape has been cut on a gargantuan 64,000 sq.m, $532-million National Gallery housed in two stolid leftovers from the city-state’s colonial past: the old City Hall and former Supreme Court. Bookending the Lion City’s yearlong 50th anniversary of independence celebrations, the gallery’s opening was quite the glittering Singaporean occasion. Opera singers bellowed on the steps out front as images inspired by the art within were beamed across the towering Corinthian columns behind them. Stage-managed photo-ops saw government ministers posing with schoolkids in a new, candy-coloured centre for art education on the first floor. And there was a speech from bangkok101.com
Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong, one that walked a tightrope between managing and building expectations. In the newly restored City Hall Chambers, the high-ceilinged room where the Japanese surrendered to the Allied Forces in September 1945, he told gathered journalists, “The National Gallery, with 800 pieces in this collection to its name and a few more borrowed from galleries around the region, is nowhere near the scale and riches of the Louvre or the Met.” But then he added, with a steely glint in his eye, “We will gradually build up our own collections over time through acquisitions and donations, and also as our own artists continue to contribute to the arts-and-culture scene in Singapore.” The next day, the crowds descended. As soon as the doors opened, hundreds set off, maps in hand, through the bright, Beaux Arts
foyers and into the two galleries filled with Singaporean and Southeast Asian art. Among them were naysayers and nit-pickers making pointed remarks such as, “These gallery ceilings are too low” (a little harsh given the conservation restrictions), “Too many corridors” (a fair point: of the 64,000 sq.m, only 18,000 are actual galleries) and “Why do you need to go down to the basement to get your ticket and then up again?” (also a fair point). But the general mood was one of excitement. People huddled around the ‘Social Table’: a flat bank of digital screens that allow you to discover links between artists with a mere swipe of your index finger. Teenagers on the footbridges that extend between the two buildings posed for selfies, the tree-like aluminium columns that prop up the latticework atrium roof in the background. Meanwhile, back in the galleries, the public stood rapt
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ART & CULTURE | special report
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6 1. Cheong Soo Pieng, Malay Woman 2. Raden Saleh, Boschbrand 3. Montien Boonma, Pleasure of Being 4. Choo Keng Kwang, woodcut (1954) 5. Cheong Soo Pieng, Tend Cows 6. Chua Mia Tee,National Language Class
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as gallery volunteers talked about the backstories behind individual works. Some listened as if their lives somehow depended on it. It’s a gallery for the people, yes, but also a transnational project. “To understand where we come from, we have to appreciate our neighbourhood and our context,” said the PM in his opening speech. But this is only half the picture. Understanding where it comes from is not the only reason Singapore is quietly amassing the most comprehensive collection of Southeast Asian modern (and contemporary) art in the world—it’s also about dominating where it comes from; about fulfilling its ambition to be a global arts city; about adding to the collective soft-power of a visual arts ecosystem that already includes the 64 | JUNE 2016
Singapore Art Museum (launched in 1996), Singapore Biennale and Art Stage Singapore (an art fair of Asian contemporary art held every January). Not everyone in the region is enthusiastic about this. With rumours circulating of private collectors being courted in an effort to get them to sell important works, and no clear incentives being offered to encourage other Southeast Asians to come and engage with the collection, questions about how neighbourly and altruistic this whole enterprise really is are surfacing. Thailand is especially vulnerable to plundering, believe some—“a sitting duck” with “no counterforce to balance the playing field,” as one Thai art scene observer who wished to remain anonymous puts it. This could well be paranoia.
As curatorial director Low Sze Wee admitted to me, Thai artists are currently vastly underrepresented in the collection. But if that changes, a near-future scenario in which Thais one day have to travel to Singapore to see Thai masterworks in the flesh is possible. There are, of course, positives to all this. In 2014, New York Times art critic Holland Cotter lamented the deep-rooted Euro-American biases of art institutions such as the Museum of Modern Art and the Guggenheim. Now, with the National Gallery Singapore’s soft-spoken and sharpsuited director Eugene Tan promising a rash of loans and collaborations with overseas institutions (joint exhibitions with the Centre Pompidou and Tate Britain are lined up for mid-2016), bangkok101.com
special report | ART & CULTURE Southeast Asian art may start to get prolonged, rather than fleeting, bouts of international recognition. One of its main aims is to fill in a gaping blank spot on International Modernism’s canvas. Again and again in the days running up to the official opening, it was made clear that its staff—a super articulate army of curators and arts administrators that numbers in the hundreds—are deeply invested in telling a story that hasn’t yet been properly told: of how Modernism happened here, and to a different timetable and for different reasons than in the West. And just how good a storyteller is the National Gallery Singapore? Despite its academic aim to “reflexively (re)write” the art history of all Southeast Asia, currently it’s most articulate when narrating its own story. This might simply be because of the two inaugural exhibitions, both of which are due to hang for around five years, the one surveying Singaporean art, Siapa Nama Kamu? (“What’s your name?” in Malay), is the most assiduously researched and complete. Broadly chronological, it begins in the early 1880s, “a time of art before the time of art in many ways,” as senior curator Hussain Mustafa puts it, but that helps us understand the early sources of the modern in Singapore,
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namely colonialism. Key works include the faux-naïve paintings of “Nanying artists” such as Cheong Soo Pieng, and Chua Mia Tee’s National Language Class, an evocative depiction of Chinese students learning the then-national language Malay from 1959, the year Singapore wrestled self-governance from its masters. Some of the most memorable works offer stark social commentary— Choo Keng Kwang’s woodcut print documenting an incident when Chinese students clashed with the British authorities back in 1954, for instance—and to the curatorial team’s credit, controversial works haven’t been locked away in the storeroom in the hope that no one will notice. Not all of them anyway. “In our retelling of Singapore art history,” says Tan, “we’ve been able to highlight certain aspects which have, until now, been overlooked.” And while Josef Ng’s Brother Cane, the 1994 video work that caused an open fissure in Singaporean society and led to the National Art Council withdrawing funding for unscripted performance art, isn’t here, other video works from that period, as well as some in other media produced in response to the ban, are on display. The exhibition covering the broader Southeast Asia region—and
flowing through the timber- panelled chambers and off-white colonnaded halls of the former Supreme Court—is more troublesome, mainly because it is less authoritative. The problem is not that “Declarations and Dreams” attempts to tell lots of stories—about the founding of art schools by Europeans, about the dawn of social realism, about the rise of avant garde movements—but that it fails to tell any of them fully, and whist adopting a magisterial tone that befits the setting. Walking out of Gallery 2, for example, you could be forgiven for thinking that all of 19th century Southeast Asia took up oil painting in an attempt to refute colonialist notions of cultural superiority, when the truth is that only parts of it did, namely Indonesia and the Philippines. You leave having learnt next to nothing about the impact communism had on the region and its art, and unaware that the reason so little Thai work appears in the early sections is not because of a dearth of quality but because, as alluded to earlier, much of it is, for the time being, out of reach. Still, there are plenty of strong works that draw you in. Perhaps the most powerful of all is Boschbrand (Forest Fire), a lush and wonderfully over-the-top depiction of bulls and tigers tumbling by the Indonesian romantic painter Raden Saleh. Another highlight is the concluding section featuring a potpourri of works by regional contemporary artists, including key installations by Thai A-listers such as Montien Boonma and Michael Shaowanasai. There are quite a few “wow” moments, actually, and not all of them involving art. The Supreme Court’s domed rotunda is now an art research centre with a dramatic sense of history. A rattan-like glass and metal membrane covers the gap between buildings, then sweeps up to enclose a top floor boasting wide open spaces and designer restaurants. In one more example of the Singaporean’s internationalism, an architectural competition to design the conversion was held, and the winners, French firm Studio Milou, have done a great job, creating a cultural megastructure that oozes civic grandeur and retains original touches. JUNE 2016 | 65
Art & Culture Photo Feature
RE-LOOK Photography exhibit by Soichiro Shimizu The recent photography exhibit by Bangkok-based Japanese artist Soichiro Shimizu, offers a second life to abandoned photos. These photographs— all taken by highly accomplished and reputable Thai photographers the artist knows and admires—are transformed by Soichiro into astonishing visual maelstroms, measuring several meters high, that truly have to be seen to be believed. The show consists of 17 limited numbered prints, and each is accredited to the corresponding photographic participant. Soichiro has turned their “delete bins” into something completely unique, by painstakingly re-looking, re-composing and re-incarnating the digital files. On opening night many of the participating photographers in attendance posted their reactions on social media.
Sam Cochaputsup wrote: “Who would have thought your abandoned pictures could turn into [an] amazing work of art.” The exhibition, curated by Dr. Prapon (Joe) Kumjim, will continue at Bangkok’s YenakArt Villa until June 5th, before moving on to Italy where it will be displayed at the Palazzo Collicola Arti Visive - Spoleto, from 15th of October to the 11th of December 2016. All photos are printed with EPSON Professional Printers: EPSON SureColor P-7000 and EPSON Stylus Pro 9890.
Original photos :: Manit Sriwanichpoom
Cattleya Katie Jaruthavee wrote: “When Soichiro asked for my photo ‘trash bin’ never in my wildest imagination could I pictured the finished product.”
Original photos :: Pahparn Sirima Chaipreechawit
Original photos :: Sam Cochaputsup
Original photos :: Cattleya Katie Jaruthavee
Original photos :: Pokchat Worasub
Original photos :: Lek Kiatsirikajorn
FOOD & DRINK |
Signature Ceviche at Blu 36 72 | JUNE 2016
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| FOOD & DRINK
AROY embracing the peruvian palate
Peruvian food is taking off here in Bangkok and BLU36 is leading the way. This newly opened eatery, located a short distance from Thong Lor BTS Station, highlights the culinary fusion developed over a long process of cultural exchange in South America. Peruvian cuisine became more and more varied as the races mixed, and the combination of sweet, salty, and sour tastes adds a truly unique blend. Try signature dishes such as the ceviche and tiradito, corn dishes (including chupe de ollucos), or brave the aji de gallina, one of the spicy chilli dishes. There’s also traditional Peruvian cocktails using PISCO, Peru’s national brandy. Open Monday to Saturday, from 5pm till midnight. www.blu36.com
farm to table feasting One of the recent restaurant openings that has been causing a stir amongst Bangkok’s foodie crowd is COCOTTE FARM ROAST & WINERY. The venue promotes a “farm to plate” concept, and it seems to be luring in the city’s gourmand crowd, judging by how full the place is every night. Executive Chef JERIKO VAN DER WOLF uses only fresh and organic products, as well as premium meat from artisan butcheries such as Sloane’s. Combine all that with fine wines, a variety of cheeses, and a very authentic atmosphere, and it’s no wonder tongues are wagging. Located on the ground floor of the Boulevard Tower (Sukhumvit Soi 39) Cocotte is open daily from 10am till midnight. www.cocotte-bangkok.com
superstar chef makes menu updates British celebrity chef THEO RANDALL was in Bangkok recently hosting an array of special dinners and press luncheons at THEO MIO, his signature restaurant located on the ground floor of the INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL (973 Ploen Chit Rd). The effusive and genial chef makes several trips a year to our fair city, constantly updating and accentuating his already renowned menu of Italian specialties. Don’t miss such newly unveiled menu items as the wonderful Salsiccia e Friarelli pizza, made with fresh sausage, mozzarella, fennel seed, friarelli, and his signature fermented pizza dough. www.bangkok.intercontinental.com
cheap and cheerful italian With a beautiful view of Phra Sumen Fort, a small Italian eatery named SUN STREET PANINI has recently opened its doors to join the constantly evolving dining scene on Phra Atit Road, in the Banglamphu area. This quaint bistro offers delicious fare at reasonable prices, including sausages made from scratch. One of the reasons it’s all so good is that the Albanian born, but Tuscany bred, chef SPARTAK ‘LUCA’ GJONI puts his focus on the quality of the ingredients. Definitely try the lasagna with duck sauce, the gnocchi, or any of the paninis, and treat yourself with freshly baked apple cake or tiramisu afterwards. Open daily (except Mondays) from noon till 10pm. www.facebook.com/sunstreetpaninibkk
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FOOD & DRINK | meal deals
Saturday Feast at Panorama
Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park | 952 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 632 9000 | bangkoklumpinipark.crowneplaza.com Set aside at least one Saturday evening and check out the sumptuous seafood buffet at Panorama, on the 23rd floor of the Crowne Plaza Bangkok. Priced at just B1,599, Chef Marco Turatti and his culinary team serve up sushi to scallops—and everything in-between—as well as meats, cheeses, pasta, and mouth-watering desserts. The buffet also features a live cooking station, and every couple automatically receives a serving of Canadian lobster. Enjoy a 25% discount when you book online via fb.bkkcp@ihg.com.
Rendition of Italian Classics at Galleria Milano Galleria Milano | 66/4 Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 20 Tel: 02 663 4988 | www.galleriamilanorestaurant.com
Galleria Milano, an Italian restaurant where you can taste the pride in every bite, has launched a two-course lunch set menu for only B350, and a three-course set menu for just B530, with both sets available from 11:30am till 2pm. Enjoy delectable tasting menus by Chef Armando Bonadonna with highlights such as Caesar salad with crispy bacon, Lasagna bolognese, Grilled sirloin, Chicken with garlic and rosemary, Roasted pork belly with fine herbs, and Pan-fried seabass with tomato, olive & capers.
Parmesan Wheel Pasta Dish at Medici Kitchen & Bar Hotel Muse Bangkok | 55/555 Langsuan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 | www.hotelmusebangkok.com
Medici Kitchen & Bar invite diners to experience their authentic Italian pasta, prepared in a whole wheel of Parmesan cheese by Chef Nicolino Lalla and his talented team. The pasta is served made-to-order at your tableside and is available exclusively during dinner hours. Watch as the chefs prepare delicious homemade ribbon pasta with white truffle and porcini mushroom sauce, while the Parmesan wheel imparts the exquisite flavour of this prized Italian cheese. This special dish costs B900 per portion.
Come 4 Pay 3 Exquisite Buffet at Feast
Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers | 2 Charoen Krung Rd, Soi 30 Tel: 02 266 0123 | www.royalorchidsheraton.com Feast at Royal Orchid Sheraton invites you to indulge in its dinner buffets with a special promotion, “Come 4 Pay 3”. Enjoy the Wednesday night Chinese Delicacies Buffet Dinner (B1,090), whose highlights include Szechuan soup, Suckling pig, and Peking duck, or the International Buffet Dinner (B1,090)—available Sunday to Thursday—which offers a variety of food from around the world. The promotion also covers the massive Sunday Seafood Brunch, which offers a bounty of fresh seafood, and free flow fresh juices, for B2,000.
Seasonal Thai Dinner Buffet at Seasonal Tastes The Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 | www.westingrandesukhumvit.com
Every Sunday to Thursday, Seasonal Tastes is offering a refreshing new way to explore and experience Thai cooking with its sumptuous dinner buffet, priced at just B999. From north to south, street to palace, diners will be treated with the engaging live cooking stations as well as a different collection of signature dishes, such as Spicy salad dalah blossom with minced pork and shrimps, Tom Yam Goong Mae Nam, and Pon Yang Kham beef salad with onion, tomato, cucumber and spring onion.
Steaks and Burgers Night at The U.S. Steakhouse The U.S. Steakhouse | 156-158 Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 097 223 0185 | www.theussteakhouse.com
Experience the true essence of a traditional American Steakhouse atmosphere at The U.S. Steakhouse. Special evening promotions throughout the month include a “Buy 1 Get 1 Free” deal every Friday night, which applies to all burgers—including Classic beef burger, Cheddar cheese burger, and Crumble blue cheese burger. And every Sunday and Tuesday night, get 20 percent off on all beefy and tender steaks, and 10 percent off on their special Australian lobster tail. Come hungry, and leave happy!
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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK
Bunker
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Take cover from ho-hum dining
he first thing you notice about Bunker restaurant is the appropriateness of its name. The bare concrete finish and beveledslot front window does indeed suggest a WWII “pillbox” emplacement. Inside, the bare, sledgehammered concrete walls and rustic-rusted iron bracings of the “brutalized” school of interior design appear to have reached a somewhat strained agreement with the flawless teakwood flooring and a downstairs bar—which sparkles and glistens like a squad of Tinkerbells ambushed by fireflies. Running the show is founder and Executive Chef Arnee Marcella, whose extensive experience in top New York kitchens is evident in the menu, execution and strikingly original style of his newly minted eatery. Highlights of Chef Arnee’s inspired and diverse culinary creations include a refreshing Endive and sunchoke salad (B350) drizzled with a tangy candied lemon dressing, with white anchovy providing a spike of saltiness. The ceviche-like Kanpachi Crudo (B375) features tender cubes of fish dressed in a coconut milk sauce, fresh coriander and Jicama turnip, while the Cured bangkok101.com
foie gras torchon (B550) with Mayong Chid (Marian plum), chili mango, and candied cashew is a delightful twist on the classic French-originated classic. The impressively sized cephalopod appendage that features prominently in the Seared octopus (B600) plate is gorgeously coloured, firm to the bite, and right-off-the-boat fresh with a peanut chili sauce and coriander expanding the dish into multiple flavour dimensions, and the Whole roasted fluke (B850/1200) is tender/ crispy, served with artichoke in a brown butter sauce. But if beef is your thing, then the Smoked Wagyu short rib (B2300/2 persons) is a must-try. Tender does not begin to describe the succulence of the exquisitely marbled meat, which effortlessly spoons off the bone, with charred onions and dreamily-creamy potato puree completing the perfect harmony of flavours. The grilled half chicken (B825) sports a nicely browned and seasoned skin, and comes with Arrowhead spinach, chestnuts and black garlic. And in a nod to sustainability, much of the produce used in Bunker’s dishes are sourced from the restaurant’s rooftop grow.
For those who naively think they can skip dessert, Chef Arnee mercilessly slays any semblance of willpower with a military-grade afters assault, highlighted by Baumkuchen (B300), a vanilla layer cake with crème Anglaise and cocoa nib, and an ultrarich Chocolate cashew torte (B300) with chocolate mascarpone creameux, caramel and cashew toffee. Bunker is armed to the teeth with a humongous and expertly curated selection of wines, spirits and suds too extensive to fully list here, but well worth mentioning are a few examples of the impressive imported bottled craft beer offerings, like the coffeeinfused Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast Stout (B450) from Copenhagen, the Hazelnut Brown Ale (B260/360) from Portland, Oregon, and the Omnipollo Hypnopompa Marshmallow Stout (B650) from Stockholm. by Gary Barber
Bunker
118/2 Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749, reservation: 092 563 9991 Open daily: 6 pm-midnight www.bunker.com JUNE 2016 | 75
FOOD & DRINK | review
Park Society S
ofitel So Bangkok’s elegant Park Society restaurant dons the mantel of hip-haute hangout with a gallery of mesmerizing new dishes and companion-friendly sharing menu options. And while the post-internet idea of the word “share” usually involves mobile phones and online ‘friends’, here sharing is reintroduced as an exclusively human endeavour. Chef Joost Bijster, the new chef de cuisine, brings a wealth of experience working in Michelin-starred kitchens in his native Netherlands, and has personally cooked for such luminaries as Jenifer Lopez, the Jackson brothers (minus MJ) and ex-Police frontman
A new social (way to) order Sting, as well as members of Holland’s royal family. For (actual) starters, Chef Joost goes all east-west with the signature Risotto Tom Yum (B550), featuring a rich T-Y sauce and tiger prawns embellished with billows of coconut foam, and the Lobster ravioli (B650) featuring a delicate pasta pouch in truffled spicy crab sauce with bisque foam. The substantially sized Pan seared Hokkaido scallops (B720/3pc.) were as tender and flavourful as expected of this distinguished appellation, while the Burrata cheese (B590) bundles burst on the tongue like velvety-smooth cheese bombs, garnished with glistening black coins
of balsamic jelly. The generously thick Pan seared foie gras (B750) comes on a pedestal of toasted brioche, enswirled with ribbons of red-berries compote and fruit bits. Apropos Bangkok’s searing summer temps, Chef Joost has thoughtfully whipped up a few lighter-fare options as well, such as the refreshing Garden salad (B320) of quinoa and raw veggies in a lemon dressing, and Salmon tartare (B460) in creamy wasabi-mustard sauce. Main dish highlights include grass-fed Tasmanian Cape Grim sirloin (B2,000) in red wine sauce, a twoday marinated, miso-glazed Chilean sea bass (B1,600) in yuzu sauce and pumpkin puree, and the Crispy veal loin and foie gras (B1,100) with pumpkin and roasted veg in Merlot jus. There’s even a 5-course Dutch set-menu (B2,900 per person) featuring specialties like Poached sole fillet (in… yes, Hollandaise sauce), Veal entrecote with an impossibly creamy Pomme fondant side, plus the world renowned Dutch treat Stroopwafel with ice-cream. And just when you feel like Monty Python’s Mr. Creosote, as he implores “I couldn’t eat another thing”, out comes a “wafer-thin mint” of an afters menu that includes a thrillingly chilled Lemon yogurt with bits of freeze dried strawberry, a sweets-suite rightly dubbed ‘Chocolate Textures’, and a decadent Banoffee cup with a honeycaramel and meringue topping. And now here’s the truly unique aspect of Park Society’s recent menu makeover: guests can order à la carte, or from the whole-table sharing menu, offering six-, eight- or 12-dish sets at B2,000/2,600/3,600 per person. Park Society calls it ‘social dining’, and it’s ideal for everything from a heartfelt get-together of BFFs, to an intimate dinner for two. by Gary Barber
Park Society
Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6pm-10.30pm (bar till 2am) www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com 76 | J U N E 2016
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review | FOOD & DRINK
Sühring
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Teutonic tastes from wunderkind twins
ne of Bangkok’s most talked-about new culinary enterprises occupies a multi-level 1970s house on a leafy street off Yen Akat Road. Filled with period-correct furniture to match, and labelled with a gate sign simply reading “Sühring”, the attractive dwelling offers only one subtle clue—a cluster of mid-20th-century German etchings on the walls—hinting at the origins of the dishes coming out of the restaurant’s state-of-the-art kitchen. Berlin-born twin brothers Mathias and Thomas Sühring—who are so indistinguishable from each other, that in order for their own staff to more easily tell them apart, they wear different coloured jackets— learned their craft in Germany, the Netherlands, and Italy, including a stint under three-star Michelin-rated chef Sven Elverfeld at the Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg, before making their mark in Bangkok as head chefs at Mezzaluna. The twins’ dedication and talent caught the attention of Gaggan Anand, famed chef-owner of Gaggan restaurant—who has joined the brothers as a full-time partner in the restaurant. “We spent seven years cooking French, Italian, and other European cuisines here in Bangkok, but never really had a chance to show where we came from,” says Thomas. “Now that we have our own place, we want to express our heritage.” “When people think of German cuisine, they often think of Munich Oktoberfest kinds of food, heavy sausages and sauerkraut serves in big portions. But we’re cooking New German cuisine. Here in Bangkok there’s really no one else doing this.” The Sührings updated German cooking uses modern techniques and boutique ingredients, while following traditional flavour profiles. “We import cream from Germany to make our own butter,” says Thomas. “And also flour for traditional German bread, of course. But we also try to use local ingredients where we can.” bangkok101.com
For now, Sühring offers two tasting menus of 9 courses (B1,800) and 12 courses (B2,500), changing seasonally. One of the dishes we enjoyed immensely was Himmel und Erde (Heaven and Earth), a traditional German delicacy consisting of black pudding, crisped onions, mashed potato, and spiced apple puree. Späzle, a soft egg noodle made by hand and cut straight into boiling water, then mixed with wood garlic and Allgaüer mountain cheese, was another mind-blowing treat. A course of Hungarian duck liver is served on a brioche slice balanced on a glass filled with Alois Kracher Cuvee 2012, a late harvest wine from Austrian, and wild trout, gently smoked on the
restaurant’s wood grill, came with perfectly steamed spargel (white asparagus) imported from Germany. German bread lovers will enjoy soft pretzels and dark brown sourdough bread, both baked on the premises and served with Obatzda, a Bavarian cheese dip made by mixing aged Camembert and butter, along with Oldenburger butter, homemade pickles, Black Forest ham and dry-aged beef. by Joe Cummings / CPA Media
Sühring
10 Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.facebook.com/SuhringsHome JUNE 2016 | 77
FOOD & DRINK | review
Don Giovanni
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This Don makes you an offer you can’t resist
ne of the city’s latter day grand old-school dining establishments, Don Giovanni Italian Restaurant at the Centara Grand Hotel Ladprao, has served a loyal following of discerning clientele for over two decades. The casual-elegant setting is equal parts welcoming and stately, giving off to a chic-ly pro-look open front kitchen, with its highlights of gleaming copper and rustic iron. Italian Chef de Cuisine Stefano Zaninelli deftly demonstrates both his native-heritage and pan-Euro cuisine cooking chops with a strikingly varied selection of classic-favourite Italian specialties and a few surprises. Starters include Wild rocket cold cream soup with Akami tuna tartare (B520) which is at once refreshing and hearty with the pureed salad leaves’ trademark bitter finish tempered by a touch of cream and body-adding potato. Keeping things traditional is the Culatello ham with sweet melon (B860), which pairs nicely with slices of crusty house-made bread. A pair of pasta dishes offer a taste of the kind of home cooking that inspired Chef Stefano’s lifelong love for the kitchen. The Potato gnocchi with duck ragout (B690) is “just like my aunt 78 | JUNE 2016
used to make”—the precisely al dente spud-dumplings remaining texturally unfazed by the savoury, slow-braised duck stew, while the up-sized Paccheri pasta with porcini mushroom, speck ham with fresh tomato (B690) is prepared with an alluringly home-made quality that tends to elicit Oliver Twistian appeals for a second helping. Having grown up in a region of Italy not far from Germany, Chef Stefano’s cooking unsurprisingly bears a hint of cross-border influence, as appetizingly showcased in his Snowfish in white wine sauce (B990)— the exquisitely tender fish fillet accompanied by critically seasonal, extra large imported German white asparagus, well as the Europeansourced Veal escallops with Parma ham and saged white wine sauce (B1,120) sided by seasonal vegetables and roasted potatoes. The Oven baked Mediterranean sea bream (B1,280) is ever so slightly browned and comes with a complement of roasted root vegetables in tomato caper sauce. As an ovation-inspiring coda to his masterwork symphony of culinary delights, the highlight of Chef Stefano’s dazzling dessert menu is the
Marsala sabayon with vanilla ice cream (B360)—the spice-sweet soup mined with plump Amerna cherries. No less satisfying is the Frozen chocolate soufflé (B330), while the colorful Bergetmot lemon and blood orange sorbet (B220) features a dramatic presentation and exciting pallet of palate-tingling accompaniments, including citrus macaroon, semi-confit of grapefruit, saffron-lime reduction, spiced tangerine and sultana salsa, enshrouded in a delicate lemon veil. And finally, what at first looks like a miniature witch’s cauldron is actually a complimentary dry ice-chilled bowl of bite-sized ice cream bon-bons. A private dining room with seating for up to 14 is also available. And be sure to ask Chef Stefano about his daily specials and vegetarian dishes. by Gary Barber
Don Giovanni
Centara Grand, Central Plaza Ladprao 1695 Phahonyothin Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Tel: 02 541 1234, ext. 4142 www.centarahotelsresort.com bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK | review
Scarlett
F
Elevated elegance on Silom Road
or many Bangkok residents Scarlett Wine Bar and Restaurant, located on the 37th floor of the Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, is one of those places that forever remains on their favourite list. The panoramic city views—overlooking lower Silom or south towards the river, depending on where you sit—give it that “wow” factor, while the sleek and sophisticated black and white décor, accented with plenty of red (as the restaurant name suggests), adds a bit of New York chic to the mix. However it’s the attention to detail when it comes to the food and drink that keeps the crowds coming back, and although the menu keeps evolving the level culinary expertise never flags. The latest evolution this eatery has undergone involves the addition of two dry agers. These glassdoor refrigerator-style units use Himalayan salt to “dry age” the meat for a minimum of four weeks. This evaporation process shrinks the cuts, concentrating the flavours as it softens the meat. Not wanting to pass up such a novel treat we dutifully order the La Côte de Boeuf “Maturée” (B2,550), which promises 1 full kg of Australian prime rib on the bone. But before the star attraction arrives we take a tour of the rest of the menu as well. The G-Board cheese and cold cut platter (B790) is a great appetizer for sharing, as it combines a selection of three cured meats—chorizo, Parma ham, and rosetta salami—with a trio of divine French cheeses. We also add a bit of seafood to the proceedings, starting with the Le Crabe Royal d’Alaska (B580), a refreshing salad that mixes king crab, mango, and avocado, followed by a creamy Lobster bisque (B290) that comes decorated with an exquisite latticed dome of puff pastry. The seafood diversion continues into the next course which begins with Pan seared swordfish (B910), one of the chalkboard specials of the day. It’s a rare treat to see swordfish on a menu and the generous portion,
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served with white asparagus and parsley butter, is seared to perfection. However the dry aged beef soon commands the attention of the table and it proves well worth the wait. Served on a wooden platter the meat is cooked to order—medium rare but erring towards rare—and comes with chunky potato wedges as well as three dipping sauces for the meat: pepper, blue cheese (my favourite choice), and bernaise. After all this heavy protein you may not have room for dessert, but if you do, be sure not to pass up the 3-scoop homemade Sherbert platter (B180).
Scarlett also boasts an excellent wine selection, with over 150 labels available. All I had to say to our knowledgeable sommelier was just one word—“Italy”—and she kindly rewarded us with a bottle of the superb Altesino, Rosso Di Montalcino, 2012 (B2,000 per bottle). by Bruce Scott
Scarlett
Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 37th floor, 188 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 1991 Opening daily: 6pm-1am www.pullmanbangkokhotelg.com bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK | review
Chili Hip
I
Tasty Thai with a rooftop view
n Thailand, street food is the most immediate way to get intimate with Thai cuisine, but there are times when breathing in exhaust fumes, and dealing with uneven fold up tables and mismatched plastic stools, just isn’t the atmosphere you have in mind. What if you’re really after a rooftop breeze, subdued lighting, and a majestic view of downtown Bangkok. For moments such as these Chili Hip, located on the 20th floor of the Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel, offers a relaxed atmosphere, tasty food, and friendly service. I’ve been to this restaurant several times over the years and I’m always taken with the views. From any one of the 64 seats diners can gaze up at the massive 85-storey Baiyoke Tower II, the rainbow-coloured flashing lights of the Berkeley Hotel Pratunam, or the crimson arcs of the nearby Red Sky rooftop bar. It’s a very urban panorama but without any sense of vertigo. After perusing the compact menu, we start with the Spicy salmon tartare with fried sticky rice (B260). Here the wonderful raw minced salmon, combined with chilli, mint, and coriander, is meant to be spread atop the accompanying (and totally addictive) fried sticky rice cakes. We follow that delicious dish with some traditional Tom yam goong ma praoon (B320). This classic Thai lemongrass and coconut soup is fleshed out with some meaty river prawns and, as the symbols on the menu point out, it’s not only a signature dish but it’s also gluten free. It’s also MSG free—as are all the menu items—which might explain why my tongue isn’t as numb as it often is after streetside tom yam. For mains we take turns delving into the sizzling Yam nue sannai yang (B410), a mix of expertly seared beef tenderloin slices, celery, onion, peppers, coriander and chilli, and the Gaeng massaman ped yang (B290), a traditional sweet Massaman curry, here made with a generous portion of roasted duck, and further flavoured with peanut and pineapple. If forced 82 | JUNE 2016
to pick a favourite I think I’d cozy up to the duck curry, especially when paired with a rice dish such as the Khao phad supparos (B260), a combination of fried rice, shrimps, pineapple, and cashew nuts. For dessert we keep the Thai theme going, despite the fact that the restaurant’s exceptional Matcha tiramisu (B180) is calling my name. However I resist, and instead we opt for the Young coconut Thai tea cake (B220), followed by a slice of the Lychee white chocolate mousse cake (B220). Both are light, flavourful, and not cloyingly sweet in any way.
For drinks we both select a Tanqueray Blush (B299), one of the bar’s current promotional cocktails. The drink is served in an oversize goblet glass, and is such a light and refreshing blend of gin, tonic, and cranberry juice, that I ordered a second without any hesitation. by Bruce Scott
Chili Hip
Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel 20th Floor, 567 Rachaprarop Rd. Tel: 02 625 1234 Open daily: 5pm-11pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Liu
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Contemporary Chinese gastronomy
t’s rare to find a Chinese restaurant that comes complete with the total package in terms of distinctive creations, sophisticated atmosphere, and a passionate staff. But Liu at the Conrad Bangkok hotel is succeeding on all counts by combing the culture and traditions from Cantonese, Shanghainese and Sichuan cuisines. The decorative aspects of Chinese culture are well-known around the world, so it shouldn’t be difficult to picture what the restaurant’s interior looks like. The red tones found in the cushions, napkins, and lanterns are complimented with shades of brown from the exposed brick wall,
wood furniture, and decorative wood branches—turning it into an instantly recognizable Chinese style restaurant, but with a modern, elegant initial impression. A splendid introduction to the restaurant’s menu is the highlyrecommended Deep-fried shrimp dumplings with chili and garlic (B130). Here chunks of plump shrimps are cloaked in translucent yet sturdy dough and then deep fried, giving a nice crust on the outside while the meat is still soft and tender on the inside. Another menu highlight that will get your meal off to a good start is the mouth-watering Pan-fried turnip cake
with Chinese sausage and dried shrimp (B100), which is flavoursome and filling, with an unforgettable texture. Don’t fancy oil? Then peruse the wide selection of steamed items, such as the authentic Har Gao (B120)—steamed fresh shrimp dumplings—and continue with the Steamed minced shrimp and scallop dumplings with wasabi mayonnaise dressing (B150), which are served in a silver spoon with a delightful scent of fresh seafood. Or, go with the adorable pig-shaped Steamed custard lava buns (B100), which arrive white and fluffy and are filled with an astonishing explosion of sweet custard and savoury salted egg yolk. Explore the countless upscale choices from the restaurant’s à la carte menu, but be sure to allow your taste buds the reward they deserve with the Dong Po pork (B320), a stewed pork belly bathed in dark soy sauce served hot and attractively with Chinese steamed buns. The braised pork is so soft it melts in the mouth—without being greasy—and provides a perfect pairing with the Assorted mushrooms with Goji berries in clear soup (B180). Other stars of the show include the Crispy filo pastry with king prawn and wasabi dressing (B240), and the Baked BBQ pork buns in clay pot (B100), which carry the flavours and textures of contemporary Chinese gastronomy. Finally, among a dozen of the desserts, the Japanese pumpkin pastries and ginkgo nuts served in coconut (B200) is definitely a winner. Liu’s Dim Sum ‘All You Can Eat’ buffet is also available for lunch, serving up a medley of traditional and modern dim sum delicacies. The buffet is priced at B900 for weekdays and B1,150 on the weekend. by P. Songsiriarcha
Liu
Conrad Bangkok 87 Wireless Rd, 3F Tel: 02 690 9999 Open daily: 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm www.conradhotels.com/bangkok bangkok101.com
JUNE 2016 | 83
FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino
FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. www.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
Breaking Bread
with Gaby Espinosa Real
T
This master of Mexican cuisine talks about her passion for innovation
he fun and funky Revolucion Cocktail bar on Sathorn Soi 10 is a lively late night neighbourhood hot spot, but many may not know that upstairs the recently opened Clandestino Cantina is whipping up deliciously innovative variations on classic Mexican and Latin American cuisine. And helming the kitchen here is chef Gaby Espinosa Real, a native of Mexico City who has
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only been in Bangkok for a brief few months. However in that short time she has conjured up a wonderfully creative dinner menu that definitely pushes the envelope—alarming purists but captivating open-minded gourmands (her rather boggling Tortilla Royal, a deconstructed tortilla served in a mason jar, is a perfect example). At the tender age of 26 Gaby may appear at first a bit young to be a head
chef, but she points out that she began quite early on. “I started cooking when I was 13,” she admits. Her career path eventually took her to Asia, where she worked at Mr. and Mrs. Bund, a well-known Shanghai restaurant, before joining Revolucion, with whom she worked for a year in China before moving with them to Thailand. And although she has amassed many influences along the way, her food bangkok101.com
breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK
focus at Clandestino is decidedly Latin leaning. “I will say it’s Latin, in general, because we have some touches from Italy and Spain, but also from Argentina, Peru, and of course Mexico,” she explains. “But even though it’s Latin homestyle cuisine, we want to have some fresh twists for some dishes.” Gaby has a motherly fondness for all her creations and loves to discuss the process behind each one. As she explains the concept behind her divine and delectable Tartara de Pescado—a dual tartare of salmon and sea bass combined with ginger, lemongrass, kaffir lime and topped with coconut foam and a chiffonade of corn tortillas—she tells me, “You have to respect the fish. That’s why we cut it a little bit bigger. We don’t make it a minced fish. You need to feel the textures.” As we move on to the Aguachile Salad, Gaby does a bit of reminiscing. “This dish we used to eat every Sunday back in Mexico City,” she says fondly. “We marinate the shrimp in bangkok101.com
the lime and chilies, and there’s a lot of cilantro too, so it’s really.” And to make it more of a meal we add a salad on the side, with vanilla and coconut dressing.” We also sample her hearty Paella del Mar, with fresh clams, calamari, prawns and even some chunks of chorizo hiding in the rice, before moving on to her exquisitely tender Chicken Sous Vide. “We cook the vacuum-sealed chicken in a water bath—at 60°— with cilantro, chili, and honey,” Gaby explains. “Then we serve it with a white and red quinoa salad, with baby corn from Thailand, and a spicy chipotle sauce.” The chicken is a scene-stealer, as is the Churrasco en Chimichurri—woodfire grilled Australian beef striploin served with homemade chimichurri sauce and roasted veggies—but the don’t-miss dish here may very well be the Grilled Snowfish, in which a moist and meaty portion of succulent snow fish sits atop a bed of refried bean ratatouille, garnished with a pop-art
display of dabs of yellow, red and green bell pepper puree. “[Snow fish] is a fish we don’t have in Mexico, but I’m glad I met him because we now have such a good relationship,” Gaby jokes as she discusses the dish. “We cook it in our Josper-style oven, using charcoal. The refried beans we make from scratch, and we add eggplant, garlic, and a mix of raw and spicy chorizo. But I originally didn’t plan on using here. Then I thought, ‘why not with the fish? It goes well.’” For a light dessert the Pina Colada Tart combines rum infused pineapple slices with coconut ice cream and cookie crumble, however the slightly heavier Churros involves a “special presentation”, as Gaby herself pours a “cold chocolate soup” over several oven-warm sugary churros. She explains that this topping of hers is a mix of 70 percent chocolate, milk, cardamom, and Cuarenta Y Tres Liquer (an aromatic Spanish liqueur which is reputed to have a total of 43 different ingredients). All I can say is, “Bravo!” by Bruce Scott JUNE 2016 | 85
FOOD & DRINK | street eats
Suki Ruenpetch A flavorsome blast from the past
I
n the days of yore, before commercial Suki chains like MK or Coca colonized the malls and defined Suki for the masses, Suki connoisseurs would scour the city for the tastiest haunts. was always Suki Ruenpetch was always one of my
eat like
Nym
Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel 86 | JUNE 2016
personal favourites, and amazingly it’s still there (on Perchaburi Road, opposite Avani Atrium Bangkok Hotel). Suki itself, for those who don’t know, is a communal dish where diners dip meat, seafood, glass noodles, dumplings and vegetables into a pot of broth cooking at the table. Just before eating it’s dipped it into a spicy “sukiyaki sauce” (usually a mixture of chillies, garlic, sesame seeds, soy sauce, lime juice, and sugar). Despite the name, the dish only barely resembles Japanese sukiyaki, having more in common with shabu shabu and Chinese hot pot. But the thing about Suki here in Thailand is that it brings people together. It makes for a perfect family outing and is a naturally communal dining experience. The focal point is the Suki pot, which sits in the centre of the table and is filled with an aromatic broth into which diners drop their chosen morsels before plucking them out with their chopsticks once cooked. As restaurant experiences go it’s very interactive and also a lot of fun. Of course, like any great restaurant, what makes Suki Ruenpetch special is
the quality of the ingredients—namely delicious soup, a flavourful sauce, and wonderful marinated meat. In most of the modern Suki chains you’ll have to make do with a simple plate of raw meat or fish balls to cook in your pot, but at Suki Ruenpetch the meat comes with an assortment of seasonings including black pepper, garlic, and sweet and sour sauce, so you can pep up your ingredients before plunging them into the pot. Don’t forget to add some vegetables too. A good suki is a balance between meat, fish and crunchy fresh vegetables—such as morning glory and white crispy cabbage—cooked lightly in the same soup. It’s light, it’s healthy and it’s delicious! Coming from a family of foodies we tend to go a little crazy at a place like Suki Ruenpetch, ordering as much as we can from the Suki menu and then adding side dishes of roast duck and shrimp cakes on top. While the food is cooking, the conversation heats up too. And when we’re ready to eat, the flavours are always authentic, fresh and truly tasty. bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK | listings
AMERICAN Hemingway’s
Located in a this 1920s-style golden teak house, this classy venue dispenses upperend pub grub and a whole lot more. 1, Sukhumvit Soi 14 Tel: 02 653 3900 Open: Kitchen noon-10.30pm, Bar 11:30am-1am www.hemingwaysbangkok.com
Little Beast
An intimate gastro-bar suited to grazing and glugging or a bit of both, featuring a menu of New American dishes, which are delicious twists on old world standbys, such as truffle fries. 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13 Tel: 02 185 2670 Open: Tue-Sat 5.30pm-1am, Sun 11am-4pm www.facebook.com/littlebeastbar
CHINESE Bai Yun
The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm www.banyantree.com
Mei Jiang
Widely regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants in town, Mei Jiang has built a loyal following for its dim sum, fresh classics, and behind-thescenes “Chef’s Table” concept. Garden Level, The Peninsula Bangkok 333 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 861 2888 Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm www.peninsula.com
Shang Palace
The interior is elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts. 3F Shangri-La Hotel 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open: Lunch Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, 88 | JUNE 2016
Sun 11am-3pm, Dinner daily 6pm-10.30pm www.shangri-la.com
FRENCH Chez Pape
The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed. 2/7 Soi Sukhumvit 11 Tel: 02 255 2492 Open daily: 11.30am-2pm, 5pm-11pm www.chezpape.com
J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain
The classic cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok, 105 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com
Le Boeuf
The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: high-quality steak liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. GF Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30 Open daily 11.30am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com
INDIAN Bawarchi
The kind of curries you’ve been missing – rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious. Check out any one of Bawarchi’s Bangkok four locations. BF Intercontinental Chidlom, 973 Ploenchit Rd., Tel: 02 656 0101-3 1F Ambassador Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi11, Tel: 02 253 2394 India-Thai Chamber of Commerce Building, Sathorn Soi 1, Sathon Rd. Tel: 02 677 6249 20/11 Sukhumvit Soi 4. Tel: 02 656 7357 www.bawarchiindian.com
Gaggan
A must-visit in the ever-growing fine dining scene, voted number one in
2015 and 2016 in the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Try one of the recommended tasting menus to experience the breadth of progressive, molecular dishes available. 68/1 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 652 1700 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.eatatgaggan.com
INTERNATIONAL Crepes & Co
The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat. 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Tel: 02 652 0208 GF EmQuartier, Tel: 09 5251 5233 Thonglor Soi 8, Tel: 02 726 9398 7F CentralWorld, Tel: 09 2663 1386 www.facebook.com/crepesnco
Eat Me
Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town. Trust us! Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com
Elements
An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” the menu is divided into an à la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a delicious vegetarian option. 25F The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily 6pm-10.30pm www.okurabangkok.com
Panorama
Serves breakfast and lunch, but the dinner buffet really has tongues wagging. The buffet changes every few months, but Saturdays are always all about spectacular seafood. 23F Crowne Plaza Lumpini Park 952 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 632 9000 Open: 6am-10.30am,Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm www.crowneplaza-bangkok.com bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK | listings
Red Oven
Styled as a World Food Market, this 7th-floor all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. 7F Sofitel So Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6.30pm-10.30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch noon-3pm www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com
The Kitchen Table
A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, expect good food and a modern ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles. 2F W Bangkok Hotel 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 0 2344 4000 Open daily: 6.30am-10.30pm www.whotelsbangkok.com/thekitchen_table
ITALIAN Azzurro
Azzurro is a new Italian addition to the bustling food street. The extensive menu of this quaint, two-story restaurant is inspired by the flavours of the different regions of Italy. 253/2 Sukhumvit 31 Tel: 02 003 9597 Open: Fri-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm www.azzurrorestaurant.asia
JAPANESE Kisso
Combining a modern mastery of time-honoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com
Taihei
There’s a real commitment to quality leading the charge at Taihei. The food is beautiful, and it tastes great, to boot. Honest-to-goodness Japanese served from atmospheric heights. 53/54F Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm www.banyantree.com
Zuma
This izakaya-style joint really delivers. Fish and beef get equal treatment, each prepared with duteous touch. Dishes come out in no precise order and can be shared or eaten individually. GF, 159 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 252 4707 Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm www.zumarestaurant.com
MEXICAN
Galleria Milano
Méjico
Luce
Mexicano
An Italian restaurant in the hands of Italians, where the pride is tasted in every bite, serves as the inspiration for a restaurant aiming to conquer the city. 1F Mille Malle, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Tel: 02 663 4988 Open daily: 3pm-11pm www.millemalle.com
Seated beside the Eastin Grand Sathorn’s infinity pool, the focus is on authentic Tuscan fare enliven the culinary senses accompanied by a fine selection of wines from Frescobaldi. 14F Eastin Grand Hotel 33/1 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 210 8100 Open daily: noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm www.facebook.com/LuceRestaurantBangkok 90 | JUNE 2016
The menu tackles traditions long ignored, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer. 2F, Groove@Central World Tel: 02 252 6660 Open daily: 11am-late www.mejico.asia
Formerly Señor Pico, Bangkok’s original Mexican restaurant, this new incarnation builds on a foundation of outstanding Mexican cuisine. 2F Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 Tel: 0 2261 7100 Open daily: 5pm-midnight; Sat brunch 12pm-3pm www.facebook.com/mexicanobkk
STEAK & BURGER Babette’s The Steakhouse
An intimate 1920s Chicago style eatery at award-winning Hotel Muse Bangkok, serving up the best steak in Bangkok, set against a glittering city backdrop. 19F Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open: Lunch 12pm-3pm, Dinner 6pm-12am www.babettesbangkok.com
Hamilton’s Steak House
Providing an undeniably pleasant spot to sit down for a few glasses of wine over lunch or dinner, this place caters to steak lovers but offers a surprisingly interesting seafood selection as well. Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 656 9440 Open: Lunch Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, MonSun 6pm-10pm www.dusit.com
THAI Baa Ga Din
Baa Ga Din advertises itself as serving “street food,” but when the cook is one of Bangkok’s most ambitious young chefs, the result is unlike anything you’ve ever seen before. 26 Sukhumvit 31 Tel: 02 662 3813 Open: Mon, Wed-Sun 6pm-11pm www.baagadin.com
Blue Elephant
A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm www.blueelephant.com
Bo.Lan
Authentic, but daring, this is one of the top Thai restaurants in all of Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why it remains so popular year after year. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 260 2962 Open: Tue-Sun 11.30am-10.30pm www.bolan.co.th bangkok101.com
listings | FOOD & DRINK
Ruen Urai
Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com
Sala Rattanakosin Bangkok Thanks to the vistas, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. The menu offers comfort food and a few Euro items too, as well as wines by the glass. 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island Tel: 02 622 1388 Open daily: 7am-10.30am, 11am-4.30pm, 5.30pm-10pm www.salarattanakosin.com
Siam Wisdom
Expertly refined flavours separated with elegance and delivered with brio. As the name suggests, Siam Wisdom delivers the best kind of culinary education. 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02 260 7811 Open daily: noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm www.siamwisdomcuisine.com
The Never Ending Summer Located in Thonburi, occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers an extensive, everchanging menu inspired by the favourite childhood dishes of one of the owners. The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 861 0953 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.facebook.com/TheNeverEndingSummer
The Summer House Project Next door to the original restaurant–The Never Ending Summer–this is one of the best spots to indulge in hearty, soothing, fare while enjoying the riverside views. 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 861 0953 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.facebook.com/TheNeverEndingSummer
VIETNAMESE Le Dalat
The newest branch of stately Le Dalat finds it in unusual territory—a high-end bangkok101.com
shopping mall—but its fresh Vietnamese fare is still as impeccable as ever. 7F The Emquartier Mall 651 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 269 1000 Open daily: 10am-10pm 57 Soi Prasarnmitr Sukhumvit 23. Tel: 02 259 9593 Open daily: Lunch 11.30am-2.30pm Dinner 5.30pm-10.30pm www.ledalatbkk.com
Saigon Recipe
The well-designed dishes here reward closer inspection, as flavours reveal themselves in prescribed order. The portions are also perfect for sharing. 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 662 6311 Open daily: 11am-10pm www.saigon-recipe.com
VEGETARIAN Broccoli Revolution
The brick-walled warehouse turned veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in the most stubborn carnivore. 899 Sukhumvit Rd. (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 Open daily: 7am-10pm Facebook: Broccoli Revolution
CAFÉ Kiosk Café
Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boite, is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cake-and-chat, or a hot coffee. 65 Sukhumvit 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu 10.30am-9pm, Fri-Sun 10.30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com
Minibar Café
A modified version of the modern New York bistro whose pleasant ambiance is staked on good food, laughter, conversation, and music, because these elements help make meals memorable and unforgettable. 5F Central Embassy 1031 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 160 5610 Open: Sun-Thurs 11am-10.pm, Fri-Sat 11am-midnight www.facebook.com/MinibarRoyale JUNE 2016 | 91
NIGHTLIFE |
The Iron Fairies Dragonfly Jazz Bar 92 | J U N E 2016
bangkok101.com
| NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE welcome to fairyland
If you’re a fan of Fat Gutz, the iconic live music bar and restaurant in Thong Lor (now under renovation) then you’re probably aware that there is now a Fat Gutz outlet at the CENTRAL FESTIVAL EASTVILLE shopping complex—located in the northeast edge of the downtown core. And now Iron Fairies, another Thong Lor legend, has also opened up here (right next to Fat Gutz in fact). The IRON FAIRIES DRAGONFLY is a beautifully designed night spot featuring great live jazz music, inventive cocktails, and delicious bar snacks. The spooky medieval interior décor, and the secret entrance passageway are both worth the drive uptown. www.facebook.com/TheIronFairiesDragonfly
the 80s and 90s are back On JUNE 4, channel your inner Madonna, Kylie or MC Hammer for the TRASH POP PARTY at SUPERFLOW CITY BEACH CLUB (9 Khaosan Rd). The entire club will be decorated with colourful pop art flair to create the 80’s and 90’s pop-tastic vibe. The party features DJs from the Bangkok Invaders family, including the young female DJ Misty from Malaysia, DJ Murf from Korea, and one of the Syamspin members, DJ Bigzexy from Thailand. There will also be fire and limbo shows, free body painting and glow sticks, and a “worst” costume contest. The price of admission is B150, which includes one welcome drink. www.superflowbeachclub.com
fight for your right to party Full Metal Dojo (FMD), Thailand’s top MMA (Mixed Martial Arts) organization, returns to Bangkok at INSANITY NIGHTCLUB (Sukhumvit Soi 12), on JUNE 4 for the FMD11: SWEEP ALL THE LEGS. Hosted by MMA promoter Jon Nutt, and Thai fitness celebrity Mark Abbott, fans will enjoy the fights between Thai and international MMA fighters in the club’s party atmosphere. One highlight match will be the epic battle between a former World Wrestling Champion, Amir Aliakbari from Iran, and BAMMA fighter Jamie Sloane from the UK. FMD11 also features one free Singha beer for all guests. www.facebook.com/fullmetaldojo
international djs coming to town Singapore native DJ TINC brings her crowd-pleasing audio repertoire and stage persona to LEVELS (Sukhumvit Soi 11) on JUNE 9. This DJ, singer and songwriter has performed her underground sounds and EDM tunes at many cities around the world including New York, Chicago, Melbourne, Taipei and Manila. The party starts at 9pm and continues until it ends. Later in the month Contrast brings San Francisco-based DJ and producer Max Vangeli to Bangkok for a party at ONYX (RCA, Rama 9 Rd). The event takes place on JUNE 18 and the entry fee is B500 (dress code is white).
bangkok101.com
JUNE 2016 | 93
NIGHTLIFE | review
The Sportsman A
On the hunt for Bangkok’s best billiards
lthough the term “sports bar” is often used to describe any drinking den showing football matches on a big screen, a true sports bar can be so much more. Take for instance The Sportsman Bar and Restaurant, located on Sukhumvit Soi 13, which is generally regarded as one of Bangkok’s best billiard halls. And although the green felt of professional size pool tables dominate both floors of this spacious watering hole, there’s also darts, shuffleboard, foosball, and arcade games to enjoy, as well as limitless sports viewing options (thanks to the bar’s many different satellite feeds). The offerings behind the bar are also a step above the average punter pub, as a range of Belgian brews, UK imports (including Guinness currently at B199 a pint), imported ciders, and several American craft beers (priced around B260) are all available. And should you care to tuck into some pub grub the kitchen can whip up everything from classic steak and kidney pie and beans on toast, to a fabulous weekly Sunday roast (only
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B195), complete with Yorkshire pudding, mashed potatoes, veggies and plenty of gravy. However what draws many to this venerable Bangkok institution—prior to finding a home on Soi 13 it was part of the now long gone Washington Square complex on Sukhumvit Soi 22—are the 14 Brunswick pool tables which are all kept in immaculate condition. “The cloths are changed every six months,” points out Joseph Veriato, one of the bar’s owners. Joseph goes on to explain how about a year and a half ago the upstairs area was opened, adding seven more 9” x 5” tables into the mix (the original downstairs area offers four 8” x 4” tables, and three 9” x 5” tables). Serious players tend to gravitate to the upstairs area, especially on Mondays and Wednesdays during the league nights, wherein about 30 bars compete in a series of “home and away” games. There’s also an 8-ball competition every Friday evening, and Saturdays are reserved what Joseph refers to as “high roller games”, which often
attract well-heeled international players. But thankfully there’s always a few tables left open for the general public, priced at B240 per hour (or B50 per game on the challenger table) upstairs, and B200 per hour downstairs. Anyone interested to join one of the 9-ball or 8-ball leagues can simply make an inquiry at the bar. You’ll be handicapped accordingly and it’s worth noting that all league players play for free (and get a free pint) which certainly sweetens the deal. However for average lads and lasses who just want a comfortable pool playing environment—with proper lighting, cues that aren’t warped, and playing surfaces free of cigarette burns and the remnants of copious spilled drinks—this is the place. by Bruce Scott
The Sportsman
Unit 10/22 Trendy Condominium Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 168 7241 Open daily: 8am-2am, 4pm-1am (upstairs) www.sportsbarbangkok.com bangkok101.com
review | NIGHTLIFE
Flow House Bangkok I
Sip, sup, and surf at this downtown beach club
n the middle of a blazing hot afternoon, or a warm sultry evening, Thais and foreigners alike can be found riding the waves at Flow House Bangkok, briefly defeating Thailand’s mind-numbing heat. This unique venue, which calls itself as a ‘beach club’, is the perfect spot if you’re looking for some watersport adventure with your burgers and beer. Opened several years ago, the bar’s main ground level area is dominated by a large FlowRider machine (imported from California). This elaborate contraption was first produced by Wave Loch, the wave manufacturer that created the original surf technology. Flowriding as a sport started in the 1990s, from the idea of combining snowboarding, bodyboarding, and skateboarding together—thus creating a brand new workout. Nowadays, flowriders are taken seriously in the athletic world, competing around the globe. However flowriding is different from surfing, as the water flows upstream, with your body resisting the wave rather than riding on the wave. Beginners start with bodyboarding, which involves lying flat on your stomach on a foam board with your elbows out in front, and you change direction by lifting the board on the way your body wants to go. The next level is sitting with your knees on the board, and then stepping up on one foot. Of course, everyone new to the sport wants to eventually be fully standing up on the board, looking like a proper surf dude. However, on the day I visited a fellow wave rider told me it took him about four hours to start standing upright. Everybody must fall in the beginning, and falling in this rapidly streaming water causes a person to flow like a whirlwind upstream onto a flat trampoline-like surface at the far end of the wave machine. And the water is jetting upwards at 32 km per hour, so it’s no surprise there are plenty of tumbles. The price of a ride starts at B750 per bangkok101.com
hour, and every Thursdays is Ladies Night, with rides costing only B300. But whether you’re here to join in on the activity, or just watch the hot bodies riding the waves, Flow House is just as much a bar and restaurant as it is a watersport facility. Popular menu items include the thin crusted Smoky chicken pizza (B350), the King Burger (B349) with beef patty, fried eggs, and French fries, and the Salmon, chicken, and shrimp salad (B240). Meanwhile, beach style cocktails include the Thai Sabai (B180), made with Mekhong whisky and lemonade, and the
refreshing raspberry or mango Mojitos (B180). In addition, the upstairs Chang Surf Bar, which is decorated in a funky tiki-style with plenty of surf-related memorabilia, is open on weekends and features live DJs and plenty of drink specials. by Lisnaree Vichitsorasatra
Flow House Bangkok A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Open: Mon-Fri, 2pm-11pm Sat-Sun, 10am-11pm Tel: 02 108 5210 www.flowhousebangkok.com
JUNE 2016 | 95
Photo of Degaruda by Dave Crimaldi
NIGHTLIFE | live music
Listen Up!
The Rock Philosopher W
by Dave Crimaldi
e traversed the Bangkok galaxy for any signs of rock and roll, and we found it! There are several live music events this month for which you might want to mark on your calendar and book the babysitter. On June 3, the hybrid rock band Degaruda bring their earth shattering hell storm of a performance to Nong Taprachan Music Shop where you can purchase their new CD Monstrous Victorious. You can also catch them at Soy Sauce Factory on June 4 with the legendary Brand New Sunset, Brain Scrubber and Cold Black Vines. On June 9th at 12x12 (810/22 Tararom 2, Sukhumvit Soi 55) catch Pok and June from Stylish Nonsense jamming with KOTA, and on June 10th an Australian rock band—gloriously named Eat Laser Scumbag!—plays Fatty’s Bar & Diner (598/66 AsokeDindaeng Rd) with local support by The Sangsom Massacre and FITS. That last one is a free show and the promoter requests you leave lasers, firearms, and vibrating devices at home. On the same night, Det 5 bar (Sukhumvit Soi 8) celebrates its 25th
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anniversary with a party. Once home to an eclectic group of musical misfits (including the Wisconsin songwriter and founder of Fatty’s, Matthew Fischer), Det 5’s regular live music is gone but we still have the memories. Entry is B300, which includes T-shirt and buffet, and all proceeds go to the school for underprivileged kids (located across the street). If at any time you see that Yaan is playing at Studio Lam (Sukhumvit Soi 51), go and see them for a mystical blend of “contemporary world music” including the mind-scrambling sitar playing of Noparuj Satjawan. Meanwhile, there’s live music every night at Queen Bee on Sukhumvit Soi 26. What used to be known as Tokyo Joe’s, the blues bar founded by the late Jeff Thomsen, is still a solid place for no-nonsense, no-hipster music from a bygone period. If you are feeling nostalgic for classic rock bands that are no longer touring or living, then definitely check this place out. To read more about Bangkok’s music scene, visit The Rock Philosopher at davecrimaldi.weebly.com
It’s been over three years since I first saw the rock n’ roll band Plastic Section play a gig at Zoo on Prachathipthai Road. Since then I’ve seen the band countless times, taken photographs, conducted interviews and we’ve had some beers. When the band leader, songwriter Ben Edwards, revealed he’d be returning to his native Australia in the future, no one was hoping more that day would never come. But as the day draws near I am of a different mind. As I hold an advance copy of the CD Frenzy in the City of Hell in my hands—the retro 50s cover, the fonts that scream campy drive-in horror flicks, and the back cover with the song titles displayed over my photo of the band being silly—I imagine this cultural artifact making its way around the world. Favourite song is “Overboard” with its buildup of verses and finally a killer chorus that takes you by surprise. “City of Hell” is obviously a great song too, but then there are psychedelic musings like “City of Angles”, with lines like “A different set of fools makes a different set of rules.” Two albums ago we were listening to lyrics like “Living is easy when you’re living on chicken and wine.” Times have changed. It’s the end of an era, and time for the bird to fly, which is why this new album is such a fitting going away present. www.facebook.com/PlasticSection bangkok101.com
NIGHTLIFE | listings
BARS 22 Steps Bar
A great place to unwind, enjoying a cocktail or fine cigar while watching the world go by. Enjoy happy hour from 5pm to 9pm every day, and don’t miss Ladies’ night on Wednesday which offers women two hours of free-flow sparkling wine from 9pm-11pm. Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81, Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 3pm-11.30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok
24 Owls by Sometimes
A delight by day, and deep into the night, the unique cocktail bar and bistro offers round-the-clock dining options. 39/9, Ekkamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit 63 Tel: 02 391 4509 Open 24 hours www.24owls.com
amBar
Located on the 8th floor rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, this pool bar offers an inviting and relaxed lounge atmosphere. Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi15 Tel: 02 309 3288 Open daily: 4pm-midnight www.ambarbangkok.com
Badmotel
This three-floor joint is minimally decorated and painted bright white. The ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined garden make a pleasant spot to sip on the venue’s “Creation Cocktails”. 331/4-5, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 712 7288 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.facebook.com/badmotel
Bar 23
A proudly dingy dive, and a favourite of Bangkok’s artistic community of Chinatown, the soundtrack always changes and the crowd never fails to entertain at this Chinatown Gem. 92, Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd. Tel: 080 264 4471 Open daily: 9pm-until very late www.facebook.com/bkkbar23
Brew
See and be seen at any one of the city’s three Brew. All have a healthy list of 98 | JUNE 2016
foreign brews and cider on tap. A beerlover’s dream. 1F Seen Space, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor), Tel: 02 185 2366 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 185 2366 Asiatique 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., Tel: 02 108 8744 www.brewbkk.com
Hooters Bangkok
Cheap Charlie’s
House of Beers (HOBS)
A no-brainer meet-up spot drawing crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists in-the-know who fill up on cheap beers and gin and tonics before heading off to yet another party. Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 253 4648 Open: Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight www.cheapcharliesresort.com
Craft
Serving craft beer on draft in all its glory, this outdoor patio-bar plays host to food trucks each weekend, spins good tunes, and, most importantly, operates over 40 taps of delicious brews. 16, Sukhumvit Soi 23, Tel: 02 661 3320 981 Silom Rd., Tel: 02 258 2464 Open daily: 2pm-12am www.craftbangkok.com
Coyote’s
A long-standing Mexican restaurant and bar, where the margaritas flow like watere—specially during ladies’ night— and the meals always satisfy. Soi Sukhumvit 11 Tel: 02 651 3313 Open daily: 12pm-2am www.coyotebangkok.com
Dark Bar
A tiny and, well, dark bar serving beer and booze at cheap prices. It’s popular with hipsters and counter-culturists. Ekkamai 10, Sukhumvit Soi 63 Tel: 02 381 9896 Open: Wed, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am www.facebook.com/darkbarbangkok
Face Bar
This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion. It’s a dimly-lit joint that summons patrons with cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails that aim to please. 29, Sukhumvit Soi 38 Tel: 02 713 6048 Open daily: 11.30am-1am www.facebars.com
The infamous American restaurant and sports bar famous for its wings, beer, and zaftig Hooters Girls, now has a “nice pair” of outlets in downtown Bangkok. 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15, Tel: 02 006 6001 4 Sukhumvit Soi 4, Tel: 02 042 4001 www.hootersbangkok.com
This Belgian-leaning chain of bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapas-style bar snacks. Penny’s Balcony, Tel: 02 392 3513 1F Groove at CentralWorld, Tel: 02 613 1322 La Villa Aree, Tel: 02 613 0572 Aree Garden, Tel: 02 617 1600 INT Intersect, Tel: 02 682 6400 Nawamin Festival Walk, Tel: 02 907 0934-5 www.houseofbeers.com
J. Boroski Mixology
A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com
Jam!
A cool, dive-y small bar in a formerly bar-less neighbourhood, whose claims to fame are frequent cult movie nights and underground DJ sets. 41 Soi Charoen Rat 1 Tel: 089 889 8059 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-12am www.facebook.com/jamcafebkk
Mikkeller
An enclave for beer geeks, distinguished by its many dozens of brews on tap, and its lush garden. A sure bet for anyone in search of a good—and sometimes hard to find—craft beer. 26 Ekamai Soi 10 Yaek 2 Tel: 02 381 9891 Open daily: 5pm-12am www.mikkellerbangkok.com
Moose
A retro-inspired hipster bar decorated with flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads. bangkok101.com
listings | NIGHTLIFE excellent playlist, plenty of craft beer, assorted martinis, and some of the best mojitos in town. 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 083 549 2055 Open: Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight www.thealchemistbkk.com
Wong’s Place
Set in a bright pink mansion that was once a soda bottling company’s office, it’s the perfect place to enjoy intimate conversations with friends over inventive cocktails and delicious snacks. 401 Silom Soi 7 Tel: 02 636 6622 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.namsaah.com
The Friese-Greene Club
Woobar
Oskar Bistro
Tuba
A preferred venue for all manner of underground DJ sets and live shows. Sukhumvit Soi 63, Ekkamai Soi 21 Tel: 02 108 9550 Open: Mon-Sat 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/moosebangkok
Namsaah Bottling Trust
This low-ceilinged club is perhaps more brasserie than bistro, but it always popular with people coming for pre-club drinks and mingling. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 255 3377 Open daily: 4pm-2am (kitchen till 11.30pm) www.oskar-bistro.com
Shades of Retro
It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lor hotspot, stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and a plenty of antiques. Soi Tararom 2, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 714 9450 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.facebook.com/shadesofretrobar
Smalls
Decorated with vintage furniture and art, giving it a true bohemian vibe, this wellloved, three-storey neighbourhood drink spot offers a wide selection of beers, wines, and hard-to-find liquors, as well as, the occasional live jazz band. 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1 Tel: 095 585 1398 Open: Wed-Mon, 8.30pm-2am www.facebook.com/smallsbkk
Sway
Chicken wings, poutine, and ribs star on the menu, while the craft beer on draft draws flocks of loyal drinkers. Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10 Tel: 02 711 6052 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.swaybkk.com
The Alchemist
This stylish, stripped down drinking hole draws its own loyal crowd, thanks to an bangkok101.com
This member’s only club (guests are always welcome), screens films in a tiny cinema on the second floor and serves reasonably priced drinks on the first. 259/6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 087 000 0795, 080 733 8438 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm www.fgc.in.th
A Bangkok classic, with room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch. Some come to snag a goofy tchotchke, but it works best as a bar, as there are few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail or beer in hand. 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 Tel: 02 711 5500 Open daily: 11am-2am www.design-athome.com
U.N.C.L.E.
One of the most enticing small bars in Bangkok, a hideaway that exudes class, where you can get cocktails made to your exact specifications. Sathorn Soi 12 Tel: 02 635 0406 Open: Tue-Sat 6pm-1am www.avunculus.com
Viva Aviv
Reminiscent of a hip bar along Singapore’s Clarke Quay, with bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade. Think tropical maritime meets dashes of outright whimsy. River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 Tel: 02 639 6305 Open: 11am-midnight, later on weekends www.vivaaviv.com
Whisgars
Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of this rapidly expanding Bangkok empire. Each outlet is a little different, but all cater to the finer things in life. 16 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Tel: 02 664 4252 981 Silom Rd., Tel: 02 630 1997 2F Mahatun Plaza, Tel: 02 650 8157 www.whisgars.com
The very definition of a dive. If you’ve ended up here, you’ve either had a tremendous night or one that you hope not to remember in the morning. 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen, Rama IV Rd. Tel: 081 901 0235
Chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release or, better yet, a weekend party. GF W Bangkok 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4131 Open daily: 9am-12am www.wbangkok.com
WTF
The coolest and most enduring shophouse bar in the city, decked out with old Thai movie posters and found items like wooden doors and chairs. Marked by great cocktails, live gigs, art exhibitions, and a mix of artsy patrons. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 Tel: 02 626 6246 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-1am www.wtfbangkok.com
ROOFTOP / SKY BARS Above Eleven
A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack. 33F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 207 9300 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.aboveeleven.com
Amorosa
A sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails, and a showstopper of a view over the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun in the distance. 4F Arun Residence Hotel 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd. Tel: 02 221 9158 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.arunresidence.com
Barley Bistro
Check out the open-air rooftop, littered with fans, bean bags, and funky barley JUNE 2016 | 99
NIGHTLIFE | listings stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for some post-work/pre-club cocktails. 4F Food Channel, Silom Rd. Tel: 087 033 3919 Open daily: 5pm-late www.barleybistro.com
Cloud 47
A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in Bangkok’s bustling business district, that turns into a purple and blue neon fantasy at night. United Center, Silom Rd. Tel: 091 889 9600 Open daily: 11am-1am www.cloud47bangkok.com
Heaven
When the golden feature bar lights up, Zen feels like one of the most glamorous places in the city. Enjoy well balanced cocktails and a beautiful backdrop. 20F Zen@Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 100 9000 Open: Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am www.heaven-on-zen.com
Long Table
Known for its massive communal dining table – you can also glug signature cocktails or new latitude wines while enjoying the view from the 25th floor. 25F 48 Column Building, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 02 302 2557 Open daily: 11am-2am www.longtablebangkok.com
Moon Bar
An icon amongst the city’s rooftop bars, it offers 360-degree views of the urban sprawl in smart surroundings. A perfect spot for honeymooners too. 61F Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com
Nest
An urbane open-air ninth floor oasis. It’s laid-back on weekdays and early evenings, but rowdy on weekends, especially during special parties. 9F Le Fenix Hotel Sukhumvit 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 305 4000 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.lefenixsukhumvit.com
Octave
Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect 100 | JUNE 2016
spot to view Bangkok from above while knocking back punchy, refreshing custom-made cocktails. 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 Tel: 02 797 0000 Open: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/OctaveMarriott
cognacs and malts, wines at solid prices, and cocktails (some crafted from homemade vodka infusions). 24/25F Hotel Muse 55/555 Lang Suan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.hotelmusebangkok.com
Phranakorn Bar
Three Sixty
An old favourite of local art students and creative types, mostly for its indie/80s/90s playlist and mellow trestleand-vine rooftop offering splendid views of the floodlit Golden Mount temple. Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd. Tel: 02 622 0282 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/Phranakornbarandgallery
Red Sky
The al fresco turret here offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come—when daylight fades, a live jazz band kicks in and the city lights up like a circuit-board. 56F Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.centarahotelsresorts.com
Sky Bar/Distil
Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, offering panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with new visitors as well as those intent on rediscovering it. 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 624 9555 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.thedomebkk.com
St. Regis Bar
This rectangular venue overlooks the Royal Bangkok Sports Club through a large plate-glass window, a lovely spot at sunset, even better on Sunday afternoons, when you can spy on horse races with a fine malt whiskey in hand. St. Regis Bangkok Hotel 159 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 207 7777 Open: Mon-Fri 10am-1am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am www.stregis.com
The Speakeasy
One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury
The only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire dazzling metropolis. There’s also live jazz every day, year round, setting a romantic mood as the first stars appear. 32F Millennium Hilton 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.hilton.com
Walk
Named to reflect high-fashion ambitions, it’s sleek enough to resemble a runway. Sofas line the perimeter, attracting a young, chatty crowd. 21F Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok 567 Rachaprarop Rd. Tel: 02 625 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.centarahotelsresorts.com/centara/cwb
CLUBS Funky Villa
Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to shake off the week’s woes to live bands and well-know hip-hop DJs. 225/9-10 Thong Lor Soi 10 Tel: 02 711 6970 Open daily: 8pm-2am www.facebook.com/funkyvillabkk
Ce La Vi
Ce La Vi Bangkok (formerly Ku De Ta Bangkok) is one of the city’s top nightlife venues, a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com
Levels
One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of bangkok101.com
listings | NIGHTLIFE resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough. 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 082 308 3246 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.facebook.com/levelsclub
Vaudevillian cast of dancers, entertainers, party animal, and big-name DJs. 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 082 308 3246 Open daily: 9pm-2am www.sugarclub-bangkok.com
Mixx Discotheque
With Congenial hostesses clad in ao dai, a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly, and over 90 varieties of vodka, it’s definitely a fun night out. Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 258 3758 Open: 6pm-1.30am www.titanium-club.com
Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend it a desert tent feel. President Tower Arcade, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok
Onyx
An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd. Tel 08 1645 1166 Open daily: 8pm-2am www.onyxbangkok.com
Route 66
RCA’s longest surviving super-club, with three zones to explore, each with its own bar, look, and music policy. Crammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais. 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue Tel: 02 203 0936 Open daily: 8pm-2am www.route66club.com
Sugar Club
A blend of the global clubbing DNA and an after-hours concept, featuring a
Titanium Club & Ice Bar
PUBS Gullivers
Mulligan’s Irish Bar
A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com
The Australian
A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800 Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com
A spacious club/bar at the corner of Khao San with plenty of affordable drinks, the place to go to end your night with no regrets (and wake up with plenty of them in the morning). 2/2 Khao San Rd., Tel: 02 629 1988 6 Sukhumvit Soi 5, Tel: 02 655 5340 www.gulliverbangkok.com
The Black Swan
Molly Malone’s
The Drunken Leprechaun
Dark wood, dark lighting, bright atmosphere, this long-standing Irish favourite features one of the best Sunday roasts in town, not to mention long happy hours and live entertainment. 1/5-6 Soi Convent, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 266 7160-1 Open daily: 9am-1am www.mollymalonesbangkok.com
An amber-lit favourite that offers myriad drink deals and spectacular Sunday roasts. Now in its new location. 19/32 Soi Sukhumvit 19 Tel: 02 229 4542 Open daily: 8am-late www.blackswanbangkok.com
This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy (with complimentary snacks). Four Points by Sheraton, 4 Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com
Start your week with hearty breakfast 75/1 Sathorn soi 10 t: 02 635 3464 Open: Daily 7.00-19.00
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notjustanothercup @notjustanothercup
JUNE 2016 | 101
NIGHTLIFE | listings
The Huntsman
English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast like no other. GF The Landmark Hotel 138 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 11.30am-2am www.landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub
The Penalty Spot
Cosy, atmospheric crowds form here mostly to check out live sports on TV, drink beer on draft, and watch the passing parade. Sukhumvit Rd. (between Soi 27 and 29) Tel: 02 661 6164 Open daily: 3pm-2am www.facebook.com/thepenaltyspot
The Pickled Liver
Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and more make this landmark pub – now in its second incarnation – a perennial favourite with locals. Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 (opposite Maxim’s Hotel) Tel: 02 651 1114 Open daily: 3pm-late www.thepickledliver.com
The Pintsman
A basement bar in Silom serving pints of draft beer and big plates of food. The requisite pool tables and live entertainment get this place hopping on weekends. 332 United Center Building, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 234 2874 Open daily: 11am-late www.facebook.com/thepintsman
The Queen Vic
An indoor-outdoor arrangement up the road from the pit that is Soi Cowboy, with a semi-circular bar serving standard cocktails, various draft beers, and substantial Western fare. Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 661 7417 Open daily: 9am-1am www.queenvicbkk.com
LIVE MUSIC
Parking Toys
Adhere the 13th Blues Bar
Saxophone
Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom crafte cocktails. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 09 0626 7655 Open daily: Mon-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight www.apotekabkk.com
One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals. 13 Samsen Rd. (opposite Soi 2) Open daily: 6pm-midnight Tel: 089 769 4613 www.facebook.com/adhere13thbluesbar
Bamboo Bar
All the pub essentials are covered: live sports, a chatty atmosphere, wood features, pints of draft beer and cider, and copious drink deals. A great place to start your night (or afternoon). Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 Tel: 02 662 3390 Open daily: 10am-12am www.robinhoodbangkok.com
The Royal Oak
Brown Sugar
An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions, draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes. There’s even a comedy club upstairs which is open every Friday. 595/10 Sukhumvit 33/1 Tel: 02 662 1652 Open daily: 10am-1am www.royaloakthailand.com 102 | JUNE 2016
The main decoration is the leggy cabaret girls, but the real attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. GF Hotel Novotel Fenix 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open daily: Tue-Sun 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/maggiechoos
Apoteka
A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com
The Robin Hood
Maggie Choo’s
Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com
A spacious garage-style venue, filled to the brim with random antiques, known for stellar live rock, ska, and rockabilly that runs into the early morning. A little bit far from downtown, but definitely worth the trip to get there. 164 Soi Sun Wichai 14 Tel: 02 318 1415 Open daily: 4pm-2am www.parkingtoys.in.th
A must-visit live music joint located near Victory Monument, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every single night of the week. 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 246 5472 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.saxophonepub.com
SoulBar
Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: Mon-Fri 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok
Tawandaeng German Brewery
A vast, barrel-shaped beer hall that packs in the revellers who come for towers of micro-brewed authentic German-style beer. The Thai, Chinese, and German pub grub also draws a large number of people, but the famous Fong Nam house band is purely for lovers of kitsch and schmaltz.A one-of-a-kind night out. 462/61 Rama III Rd Tel: 02 678 1114 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.tawandang.co.th bangkok101.com
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| LIFESTYLE
LIFE+STYLE time to start exploring After 10 months of renovation, Bangkok’s SIAM DISCOVERY shopping mall has finally reopened. On May 28th, one of the city’s most popular malls came back to life with a brand new concept. Rebranded as the “Exploratorium”, Siam Discovery is Thailand’s first shopping mall where customers, rather than brands, or products, are the main focus of the shopping experience. Together with the SIAM CENTRE, and the future ICONSIAM, the shopping complex is on its way to turn Bangkok into one of the most exciting shopping paradises in Asia.
natural goodness in a cup The recently launched brand TICHAA BY HARNN offers tea lovers a selection of natural White Mulberry tisane brew, categorized into 3 different groups: Certified Organic, Natural Tisane, and Candle Scented Tisane. The caffeinefree White Mulberry leaves—used as the core ingredient—are known for numerous health benefits including a high content of fibre, as well as iron and essential minerals. The selection of White Mulberry tisanes, as well as an assortment of Tisane Essential Oils, are both available at Harnn stores nationwide, in addition to the flagship Tichaa Tea and Dining Room in Chiang Mai.
before or after workout CENTARA GRAND & BANGKOK CONVENTION CENTRE at CentralWorld has recently finished renovating and refurbishing its fitness centre LIFESTYLES ON 26 (located on the 26th floor), which now boats with state-of-the-art exercise facilities. In addition to the new equipment, a large selection of classes conducted by experienced teachers and personal trainers are available, including yoga fly, TRX, and kick boxing. There’s even a 25-metre outdoor swimming pool to enjoy. With direct access from the hotel to CentralWorld, one of Thailand’s biggest lifestyle and shopping complexes, it just became much easier to squeeze in a quick work-out before or after a fun day out.
scents and sensibility at groove The interior fragrance brand VUUDH has recently opened its first pop-up store on the 1st Floor at GROOVE@CENTRALWORLD. Inspired by travels and memories of scents from Asian cities, the brand interpreted this concept into a natural fragrance line with nine unique scents available as aromatic candles, diffusers, room sprays, and other accessories. The pop-up store is built using mainly mirrors, symbolising a reflection of one’s expanded horizon accrued from travelling. Apart from Vuddh, the store also features products the resortwear fashion line Jaritt.
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LIFESTYLE | spa deals
Escape the hustle and bustle at So Spa
SO Sofitel Bangkok | 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 | www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com If you are looking for peace and quiet in our busy city, head to So Spa at the SO Sofitel. Whether you are a hotel guest, or a local resident, enjoy a relaxing treatment while overlooking the hotel’s infinity pool and Lumphini Park. Throughout the whole month, the hotel’s spa offers its East Meets West package for B4,200 (regularly priced at B5,150). The package features a foot treatment, and combines traditional Thai and Swedish massage techniques to rebalance your energy.
Anniversary specials at The Grande Spa
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 649 8121 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, the Grande Spa offers up to 50 percent off on certain selected treatments. Among the offers are the 2-hour 45min Grande Celebration spa package, as well as the Indigenous Realignment massage. Thanks to special techniques which help release toxins and increase the blood pressure, the treatment is especially recommended for people who suffer from chronic pain. The promotion only lasts until the end of June, so act fast!
Recharge at The Sanctuary Wellness & Spa
Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok | 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 Tel: 02 261 7100 | www.rembrandtbkk.com If you are feeling tired from a long day out, head to The Santuary Wellness & Spa at the Rembrandt Hotel for a little pick-me-up. Until the end of the month, the hotel’s spa offers a 20 percent discount on their Total Revival package which is aimed at ridding your body of any aches and strains, and put you back into shape—all in just one hour! The treatment includes a 30min back massage, as well as a 30min foot massage, for the discounted price of just B800.
Mix and match at i.sawan Residential Spa & Club
Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok | 494 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 1234 | www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Throughout June, i.sawan Residential Spa & Club offers lovers of traditional Thai massage three different wellness packages to choose from. For B4,600 you can either combine the massage with a soothing exfoliation, including jasmine rice and lemongrass cream, or enjoy an Acupressure Lift & Sculpt Facial using a warm sesame seed compress. If you don’t want anything too fancy, opt for the Thai Touch package, and get an extra foot massage for B3,400.
Get summer ready at Away Spa
W Bangkok | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 | www.wbangkok.com Throughout the month of June you can prepare your skin for the summer at W Bangkok’s Away Spa, and enjoy a special treatment to nourish and brighten your skin before facing the heat and bright sun. If you suffer from dry skin, soften it with the mango body scrub and mango body lotion for B2,199, or reboot it with the Cool for the Summer Package. The treatment includes a full body cooling, and a mini aloe vera cucumber facial for B2,999.
Relax at Vareena Spa
The Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8450 | www.westingrandesukhumvit.com If you have taken your workout a little too far, try the Seaweed Body Wrap at Vareena Spa for B2,600. The treatment utilizes the self-healing power of seaweed for a deep tissue detox, and is especially effective to relieve sport-related strains. Another special offer this month at the Westin Grande’s wellness oasis is the Green Tea Body Mask package for B2,200. The mask encourages the body’s natural healing, and is combined with a neck, head, and scalp massage.
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spa review | LIFESTYLE
Pañpuri Organic Spa
The Thai-based, high-end spa brand Pañpuri has gained international recognition over the past few decades, not only for its spa facilities but also for its exceptional line of organic products. In Bangkok the recently renovated Pañpuri Organic Spa at Gaysorn offers luxurious treatments that will pamper you from head to toe. The products used for each massage and health treatment
RarinJinda Wellness Spa
While the view from RarinJinda’s third, and latest spa is downright breathtaking, their special treatment is designed to give you your breath back. Located on the 30th and 31st floors of the Grand Centre Point Hotel Ploenchit (BTS station Ploenchit), it’s Bangkok’s first rooftop spa, and is a kind of sanctuary in the midst of the bangkok101.com
have a particular focus on blending traditional Thai herbs and Eastern ingredients, and steer clear of using such chemical additives as paraben, aluminum, phthalates and silicone. The five updated treatment rooms offer contemporary interior design, with wood and marble accentuation, and there’s also a room for couples complete with an in-room steam shower where you can enjoy a memorable spa experience with your special someone. The massage menu covers a selection of the best traditional Southeast Asian techniques, including stretching, acupressure, aromatherapy and hot stone treatments. Every one of the results-driven facials and body treatments are specifically tailored to each guest’s needs, and the Mali Moonlight Soothing Massage (B2100/60 min, B2600/90 min) is one of the most recommended. The combination of stretching and acupressure technique will leave you in a state of absolute relaxation. A foot scrub and foot massage is performed before the core massage begins. Visitors will then be escorted to an electrically-heated bed, where
the warmth is adjusted to perfection. Next, soothing jasmine oil is applied to your skin, after which the experienced masseur starts stretching your tired muscles—from your back to your shoulders, and down through your arms and legs. Skillful hands and a firm pressure ease out tension from your core, while the negative energy is released. The pampering hour ends with a blissful and soothing neck and head massage. Afterwards, while sipping a cup of herbal tea and munching on a piece of fresh papaya, guests are informed that leaving the massage oil on the skin overnight is highly recommended for the most effective results. It’s also worth noting that an extensive line of premium Pañpuri spa and skincare products are available to purchase at the souvenir corner beside the reception counter. By Pawika Jansamakao
metropolitan melee. Immediately after entering, the senses are calmed by the spa’s sweetly relaxing signature scent—a blend of kaffir lime, and mandarin oil—hanging in the air. The interior is designed in a contemporary Asian style, with beautiful wooden furniture offering a homey atmosphere in the over 20 treatment rooms. RarinJinda’s signature package, Elements of Life (B2,500/90min) is aimed at restoring a person’s balance with nature, and includes both Tibetian Sound Therapy, and Warm Sand Bed Therapy. Unique to this particular branch, however, is the Siamese Himalayan Salt Therapy (B1,500/60min). The treatment includes a foot scrub with Himalayan salt, leaving the feet clean and soft, and a traditional Thai massage in a special ‘salt room’ designed to cleanse the respiratory system. Prior to the massage guests are offered tea and a glass of warm water, which should be consumed
before entering the room where both floors and walls are made of Himalayan salt blocks. Technically called “Spleotherapy”, mineral infused air is beneficial to numerous health issues including asthma, whopping cough, and ear infections. The massage itself is traditional Thai, and includes all the typical stretching, bending, pulling, and pressing until the body is relaxed and rid of all tightness. As a post-treatment experience, guests are invited to relax in the lounge to enjoy herbal tea and a delicious plate of mango and sticky rice, and browse through the cosmetic products in the Blooming Shop. By Julia Offenberger
Pañpuri Organic Spa
Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Rd Tel: 02 656 1199 Open daily: 10.30 am-9.30pm www.panpuriorganicspa.com
RarinJinda Wellness Spa Ploenchit
Grande Centre Point Ploenchit, 100 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 651 5224-5 Open daily: 10am-midnight www.rarinjinda.com JUNE 2016 | 107
LIFESTYLE | spa product
Summer Skin
Repair and protect your city-ravaged skin Amazing Face Cleanser by Aesop
Papaya Purifying Enzyme Masque by June Jacobs
Recently, the Australian brand Aesop made its products available in Thailand with its first store in Siam Paragon’s Beauty Hall. People with combination and oily skin might want to opt for the Amazing Face Cleanser, especially suitable for living in a humid, and polluted climate like our beloved Bangkok. The low-foaming, mandarininfused gel thoroughly cleanses skin, expelling daily build-up of grime and oil while absorbing excess sebum. Massage half a teaspoon over the face and neck before rinsing thoroughly with warm water, and follow with your preferred toner and hydrator. The 100ml bottle is available for B1,150.
To clean and protect your skin deeply, try this clarifying mask by June Jacobs. It contains a combination of papaya’s natural fruit enzyme papain, as well as extracts of mango, and pineapple which help the skin to turn soft and supple. By applying it to clean skin for a couple of minutes before rinsing it off, it gently dissolves dead surface impurities and allows nourishing oils to enter the skin. Additionally, an antioxidant blend of white, red and green tea helps to neutralise free radicals, protect the skin from environmental toxins, and combat visible signs of premature aging. The mask is free of parabens, and preservatives, and can be purchased at the i.sawan spa at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok for B3,200.
Citrus Cooling Oil by Blooming Spa Bangkok’s recent heat wave has definitely taken its toll on everybody’s body and mind. To help cool down, and clear your head, try Blooming Spa’s Citrus Cooling Oil. Their bestseller product is infused with a variety of citrus giving it a refreshing aroma. It helps relieve headaches and anxiety, leaving you with a refreshed and invigorated feeling, while the added menthol gives the skin a cool sensation. Blooming Spa Products are made from natural ingredients, selected by spa therapy specialists for mental and physical benefits. The Citrus Cooling Oil is available at RarinJinda Wellness Spa for B390.
White Tea Facial Mist by Neal’s Yard Remedies Another product to freshen up you and your skin is the White Tea Facial Mist by the British brand Neal’s Yard Remedies. It’s infused with antioxidant white tea, calming organic aloe vera, aroma therapeutic organic essential oils, and soothing Bach Flower remedies. Spray the mist over face and body—but be sure to close your eyes—to calm down, and feel more refreshed. You can find it in the Beauty Hall at Siam Paragon for B950.
Thai Jasmine and Mint Voyage Set by Pañpuri Whether it’s a long weekend at the beach, or a city trip, Pañpuri’s new Thai Jasmine and Mint Voyage Set is great for a quick getaway. It covers all the essentials—a gentle hair cleanser, a nourishing conditioner, a cleansing body wash, a soothing body lotion, and a wash bar—and its container sizes are hand-luggage size compliant. Pañpuri’s products are free of any harmful chemicals including aluminium, parabens, and silicone, and the scents derive purely from botanical ingredients. This particular set, which comes in a textured green canvas bag, is available at Pañpuri Organic Spa in the Gaysorn Shopping Centre for B1,240.
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unique boutique | LIFESTYLE
Preduce
Where skaters becoming creators
A
imed at helping to support and grow the skateboard scene in Thailand, Preduce— which began making skateboards back in 2003—has served as a rendezvous point for the city’s skateboarders, sneaker heads and street fashionistas for over a decade. Their flagship Siam Square shop has become the home of skate and street cultures in Bangkok since it was first opened in 2006 by three friends— Rthit Phannikul, Simon Pellaux, and Guillaume Wyss—who met through skateboarding and travelling. Siam Square is a popular fashion district of Bangkok, particularly for teenagers, young adults and the young at heart. The store is decorated with modern influences and clean lines, creating a chic statement with its white brick wall and polished concrete floor; turning the outlet into an urban street scene with a boutique feel. Shoppers can find every skaterelated thing they need here, including skateboard decks (boards), skate hardware, apparel, sneakers, and loads of accessories. Among the best-selling products is the Sawatdee deck, from the store’s own brand, which comes in classic black or white and features a bangkok101.com
screen printed design depicting a wai (the traditional Thai way of greeting). Other popular items include the Preduce X Tawan deck series featuring the art by local artist Tawan Wattuya, and the series of Preduce x Sergio del Amo “Gangster” boards which add retro touches to their decks, offering a cool prints of Thailand’s thugs. Other unique Thai style creations include the Preduce Deck Demons series by a resident artist TRK, and the latest Preduce X Sadam Yoshizawa Oni deck series created in collaboration with Japanese artist Sadam Yoshizawa. Produced in various factories in Thailand, all Preduce decks are priced at B,1300, and are made of 100 percent Canadian maple wood with an epoxy resin glue construction—making them extra light and giving them perfect “pop”. Apart from the shop’s original brand there’s also bold and vivid complete skateboards and longboards from Penny, skateboard decks from Baker, and high quality trucks from Independent. The shop also carries some high end street wear including sneakers from high-top Nike SB, Converse and Vans, favourite hats and beanies from Thrasher, and
eye-catching tops and bottoms from Diamond Supply Co. Visit the brick and mortar store to assemble your own skateboard and to see more of the cool clothing lines. The experienced and friendly staff are always on hand to answer any questions about the products, and you might even meet some of the pro skateboarders from the Preduce team, which includes Tao Kitpullap, Lert Saeri, Geng Jakkarin, Kyle Brown, Absar Lebeh, and Aod Suriyan. Preduce provides a space for Thai and international artists to display their creations, showing true support for up-and-coming talents. The store also distributes their funky creations internationally to such countries as Hong Kong, Malaysia, Switzerland, The Philippines, and Singapore. And, to celebrate its 10 year anniversary, plans are underway to completely renovate and remodel the store at Siam Square. By Pongphop Songsiriarcha
Preduce
218/9 Siam Square Soi 1 Tel: 086 045 5784 Open daily: 12pm-8.30pm www.preduce.com JUNE 2016 | 109
LIFESTYLE | made in thailand
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made in thailand | LIFESTYLE
Wearable Art
Give your sneakers a special twist with Kraftka
B
ored of your plain old sneakers, or can you never find new ones with just the right pattern? Have you ever wanted to design your own shoes, or do you need a personalised gift for somebody? If your answer to any of these question is ‘yes’, then check out Kraftka, an international, “crowd-created”, online fashion label-cum-social network for artists and sneaker lovers. Sounds intriguing, right? Then let’s break it down to the essentials. First of all, Kraftka is an online platform founded by Bangkok native Chanasinj ‘Sunny’ Sachdev. With a background in fashion—he works with brands including Pronto Denim, Superdry, and Freitag—Sunny got inspired by his wife who handcustomized a pair of sneakers for him. “I thought it was amazing to put art on other unique items rather than just the usual T-shirt”, he says, and decided to use this idea, and his knowledge, to create a brand of his own—but with a unique twist. On the heels of its recent soft launch, the brand will celebrate a grand opening in Bangkok in July. Basically, there are two groups of users invoved—the designers, and the wearers. While artists and creative people are given the tools to design, and share their own sneaker patterns, customers form around the world can use the website to discover, order, and wear those pieces of art. “Usually, people choose products that are already created by their favourite artists; the most popular designs right now are by PUCK,” Sunny explains. However, if you want to give it a shot, it’s also pretty easy to do the designing yourself by simply visiting the website www.kraftka.com, clicking the ‘kreate’ button, and uploading any JPG/PNG file, or photo. The shoes are then printed with environmentally friendly ink from Japan at a workshop in Ekkamai. They can then be sent almost everywhere on the globe. bangkok101.com
By Julia Offenberger
Currently, the website offers more than 500 shoe designs, with a constantly growing choice with more than 100 designs coming every month. And since only very recently it is now not only possible to personalise sneakers, but flip flops and espadrilles will soon be complementing the array of shoe styles. “Every few months, we release fun new products for artists to put their art on to”, Sunny points out. Additionally, there is also a large financial incentive to the business which gives artists the chance to turn their creativity into cash. Sneakers are available for 89 US dollars (approximately B3,200), and every
time one shoe design is sold, the creator earns the equivalent of US 10 dollars in Kraftka-Koins. Consequently, the coins can either be used by the artist to buy a pair of shoes, or be withdrawn in cash. With the goal to empower artists, help them earn money, and provide a platform for international exposure, Sunny has created the world’s first crowd-sourced fashion label which is not determined by a single vision, but a collective one. To sum it up in his own words: “It’s a brand made by everyone for everyone—putting art everywhere, and allowing everyone to express themselves through art.”
On June 4th, Kraftka is hosting their first Art x Sneakers Party at Paint Bar Bangkok (Sukhumvit Soi 49). From 6pm to 8pm people are invited to paint their own pair of Kraftka sneakers while drinking free flow beer provided by Smiling Mad Dog Co. Don’t worry, neither skills nor experience are required, simply come, take a seat, and pick a size. At the end of the workshop, you can even wear your shoes home. Tickets are B1,990 including the beer, painting tools, instructors, and sneakers. Unfortunately, there are only 25 seats, so be quick, and reserve your space now! For more information, go to: www.artxsneakers.com. JUNE 2016 | 111
LIFESTYLE | style feature
Health Watch
O
Improve your workout with these “handy” fitness devices
n your way to a healthier lifestyle, being active is a vital part. However, fitness isn’t necessarily a rigorous work-out plan, but includes everything from a short walk to 7/11, to running a lap in Lumpini Park, or lifting weights at the gym. Every step counts, and therefore, keeping track of your progress is important to reach your fitness goals. But who says you can’t be stylish while you keep an eye on your exercise regimen.
To help you keep an eye on your progress, the fitness company FitBit has created a range of products, all with specific purposes, goals, and budgets in mind. Their two newest gadgets are the activity trackers FitBit Alta (B5,990) and the FitBit Blaze (B8,990)—both available for purchase at www.invadeit.co.th. The FitBit Alta is a thin wristband which tracks your steps taken, distance covered, and calories burned, as well as all your “active minutes” throughout the day. It automatically records exercise, and tracks how long and how well you sleep at night. To fit your personal style, the tracker can be easily customized with different bands.
For a very different look and feel try the Moov Now (B3,316), a futuristic-looking device whose main focus is on sports, but which can also track basic daily activity too. Especially designed for running, cycling, swimming, and boxing, this gadget helps the wearer to improve and achieve set goals, utilizing different training plans and difficulty levels. Like a personal trainer, it speaks to you, giving you specific instructions, telling you when it’s done right, and how to improve. It’s also waterproof, and can be worn either on the wrist or around the ankle. It can be purchased online at www.lazada.co.th.
For more elaborate information about your work-out, opt for the FitBit Blaze. On top of the regular FitBit functions, this device offers an integrated PurePulse feature to measure your heart rate, and ensure you’re working out at the right intensity. It also makes it possible to map routes and receive workout instructions and a summary of each workout. For a different style, mix and match the styles and colours of bands and frames available.
Similar to the FitBit Alta, the Jawbone UP2 (B4,990) measures your daily activity, and tracks your sleep at night, with tips on how to help get a better night’s rest. For personal fitness advice, use the tracker’s Smart Coach feature, or connect with friends if you fancy a friendly competition. The makers of Jawbone have also put a lot of thought in the look and design of the bracelet which is available with a new lightweight strap, and in wide selection of colours. For more features, try the UP3 (B7,990). Both models are available at www.central.co.th.
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SIGNING OFF | did you know?
ou .. Y . d Di ow? Kn
D
id you know there’s a way to watch Muay Thai boxing matches without seeing anyone get hurt? If you’re a bit squeamish about actual violence, but you still want to learn more about the history and cultural significance of Muay Thai, then head to Asiatique the Riverfront (Warehouse 4) to see the long-running stage show entitled Muay Thai Live: The Legend Lives. This award-winning, visually dynamic spectacle traces the development of Thailand’s national sport—from its genesis in ancient Siam to its present day popularity in modern action movies. The ensemble cast brings to life many important moments in the evolution of Muay Thai, while the narrative explains the origin of many of the sport’s rituals, customs and fighting techniques. The 600 seat theatre, which was built especially for this show, is equipped with state-of-the-art multimedia technology, including a 12'x9' high-resolution LED wall. Meanwhile the unique twin-stage layout offers great versatility in 180° visibility. So whether you purchase a standard (B1,200) or a premium seat (B1,500) you won’t miss any of the on stage action. The show, which runs every evening except Monday, is also followed by real-life Muay Thai boxing matches, mentored by Muay Thai Grand Master Kru Sane Tubtimtong. This 30 minute post-show segment features both local and international fighters, and represents various gyms around Bangkok. The stage show begins at 8pm, and the live boxing matches starts at 9pm. To find out more, or to book tickets, call 02 108 5999, or go online at: www.muaythailive.com.
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