PUBLISHER’S LETTER
T
he late British composer and lyricist Lionel Bart had it right when he penned “Food Glorious Food,” the famous opening song-and-dance number from the 1960s hit Broadway musical and film, Oliver! And nowhere is food more glorious than in Thailand. In this issue we celebrate the Kingdom’s surfeit of culinary traditions and offerings. In addition to columns on rice and a historic Thai dessert, you can whet your appetite with one story that looks at Bangkok’s burgeoning artisanal food scene, and another on the second coming of a parade of up-market food trucks. For a meaty entrée, turn to this month’s photo feature and feast on the mouth-watering images of photographer Austin Bush, who recently highlighted the flavours of the Lanna region with a photo exhibition titled Ancient Roots & Culinary Crossroads: The Food of Northern Thailand. On top of our usual selection of restaurant recommendations, we serve up, by way of dessert, a My Bangkok interview with Chef Gaggan Anand, whose eponymous restaurant recently took top spot at the annual S. Pellegrino-Aqua Panna Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.
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WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
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CONTRIBUTORS
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Matt Wilde editor
Craig Sauers Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
An American by birth, MICHAEL MOORE has spent over half of his life living overseas; first as an international school teacher and administrator and then as a freelance writer and editor. He has contributed to a variety of news and lifestyle publications, including Travel & Leisure, the Philadelphia Inquirer, and numerous inflight magazines. Although he covers a variety of topics, he particularly loves writing about food and wine.
associate editor
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Joe Cummings art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Nan Tohchoodee, Adam O’Keefe, Jim Algie, Marco Ferrarese, Laurence Civil contributing photographers
Willem Deenik, Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi A Brit with three decades of Bangkok living, KEITH MUNDY has been a freelance travel writer and photographer for 26 years. Trained in languages and literature (English, French, Spanish), he has been a traveller since the age of 14, visited 96 countries so far and been kicked out of a couple. His work has appeared in travel and lifestyle magazines worldwide, including the inflight magazines of several major airlines, and he is the author of guidebooks to Thailand and Mexico, plus Thai corporate and cultural histories.
AVAILABLE AT:
bangkok101.com
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Paris native LUC CITRINOT has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.
director sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon account executive
Orawan Ratanapratum circulation
Phichet Reangchit published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
S E P T E MM BE AY R 22001145 | 5
CONTENTS 46
20 42
14
CITY PULSE
ART & CULTURE
SHOPPING
8 metro beat
52 exhibition highlights
96 new collection: la
12 hot plates: vogue
54 feature: yellowkorner
boutique-the secret
lounge
56 cheat notes
garden of cecilia
14 out and about:
58 photo feature:
meals on wheels
ancient roots, culinary
20 best of bangkok: on
crossroads: the foods of
the artisanal food trail
northern thailand
26 making merit: the courageous kitchen
FOOD & DRINK
SNAPSHOTS
68 meal deals
28 tom’s two satang
69 restaurant reviews:
30 joe’s bangkok
blue sky, brasserie 9,
32 bizarre thailand
harvest, 22 kitchen &
100 unique boutique:
34 temples, historic
bar, taper, siam wisdom
pure luck
buildings, museums
78 in the kitchen:
66 food & drink news
matthew woolford
96 98 tailor listings 54 69
WELLNESS
TRAVEL
79 eat like nym
102 breeze spa
40 up country now
80 restaurant listings
103 spa listings
42 up country escape:
86 imbibe: wine & dine
REFERENCE
lopburi’s art deco heritage
NIGHTLIFE
104 maps
46 over the border:
88 nightlife news
112 my bangkok:
stairways to heaven,
90 review: ku dé ta
gaggan anand
philippines
92 nightlife listings
ON THE COVER Eclectic food trucks, a cornucopia of artisanal products, delicious street food, farmers markets, and award-winning restaurants of every stripe: Bangkok is a true paradise for foodies. Dig in! 6 | M AY 2 0 1 5
bangkok101.com
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metro beat
FILM
by Craig Sauers
ELECTRONIC My Beautiful Country The Goethe Institut presents two special viewings of the award-winning German film My Beautiful Country, set during the 1999 civil war in Kosovo. An Albanian soldier seeking refuge in Serbia falls in love with a local widow, unearthing a theme of love in a time of hate. On May 10, the film screens at 1pm at the Thai Film Archive (Phuttamonthon Rd, Salaya). Then, on May 12, it shows at 6pm at the Cinematique at the BACC (2nd Fl, 939 Rama I Rd). German language with English subtitles. For more information, please call 0 2108 8200 ext. 31 or 32 or email programm@bangkok.goethe.org.
Hardwell Hardwell is back. The Dutch DJ, voted the top track spinner in 2013 and 2014 by DJ Magazine, heads to BITEC (88th Bangna Trad Road) on May 8 in support of his debut album, “United We Are.” Known for his big house style, Hardwell first gained recognition in 2009. Since then, he has released five compilation albums and climbed charts with hits “Young Again” and “Don’t Stop the Madness.” But he’s not just in town for a solo show. Kicking off with Hardwell at 7pm on May 8, BITEC keeps the party going with Together Festival on May 9. It’s going to be a weekend of EDM on full blast. On the docket are cake-throwing party-starter Steve Aoki, W&W, Dyro, Vinai, and more to be announced. Tickets for the weekend cost B3100 for general admission and B6000 for VIP passes. For more information, please visit Facebook.com/TogetherFestival or amiando.com/ iahtogether2015. 8 | M AY 2 0 1 5
This month’s Director’s Choice: “Court” For this edition of “Cinema Diverse: Director’s Choice,” a programme held at the BACC (939 Rama 1 Rd) that encourages arts and culture dialogue between artists and the general public, Thai director Aditya Assarat has selected the Indian drama Court. The 2014 film examines the personal lives of two criminal lawyers and a judge wrapped up in the trial of an aging folk singer. The movie will be screened at the 5th floor auditorium at 5.30pm on May 23. A discussion follows (in Thai with English translations). All movies are shown in English with Thai subtitles. For more information, please call 0 2214 6630-8 ext. 528 or email activity@bacc.or.th.
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ROCK, POP & DANCE
Backstreet Boys Rumours of their demise have been greatly exaggerated. On May 6, Brian, Kevin, Howie, Nick, and AJ — the trailblazer for boy bands the world over, One Direction before Harry Styles was even born: yes, the Backstreet Boys — relive the glory days with their long-awaited first appearance in Thailand. The party of five steps on stage at 8pm sharp at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pak Kret). At last. On this 140-show mega-tour, named after the group’s latest album, “In a World Like This,” the old charmers will no doubt prove there are still a few tricks up their sleeves. Expect songs from their 2013 release as well as classics like “As Long As You Love Me” and “I Want It That Way.” Tickets range from B1800 to B5500. Arrive early to avoid great swells of traffic. For more information, check thaiticketmajor.com or call 0 2262 3456. On May 8, Just two days after BSB sing their sentimental ballads to fans at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pak Kret), The Script bring their style of pop-rock to the same venue. The Irish trio rose to fame with the 2008 hit “Breakeven.” Last year, the group released its fourth album, “No Sound Without Silence,” to mostly positive reviews. Tickets start at B1000 and peak at B3000 for the 8.30pm show. Go online to thaiticketmajor.com or call 0 2262 3456 for more information.
Katy Perry bangkok101.com
Not since Lady Gaga came to Bangkok has there been a concert with so much fanfare. Katy Perry arrives at Impact Arena (99 Popular Road, Pak Kret) on May 14. Is she the best live singer out there? Not always. But her show is such a spectacle, such a multi-sensory treat, that any songs sung off-key, a la Taylor Swift, are easily forgivable. The Prismatic World Tour sees the pop-star at her finest. If her ride on the man-powered polycarbonate lion at the Super Bowl is any hint of the theatrics to come, then the B2000-B6500 tickets will be worth more than the price of admission. The show kicks off at 7pm. Show up early. For more information, call 0 2262 3456 or visit thaiticketmajor.com. M AY 2 0 1 5 | 9
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THEATRE
MARKETS & FAIRS
The Bangkok Community Theatre presents two weekends of family fun with Jack and the Beanstalk at DoubleTree by Hilton (Sukhumvit Soi 26). The show will run twice daily, at 1.30pm and 4.30pm, on May 23 and 24, and again on May 30 and 31. It’s an up-close and interactive rendition of the classic play, with proceeds benefiting a local children’s charity. Kids are encouraged to come dressed in costume. For more information, please call 08 1741 0703 or visit bangkokcommunitytheatre. com. Tickets are priced at B220, regardless of age. “Dine and Swim” packages at the hotel are also available; email Anek. Prosper@hilton.com or call 0 2649 6730 for more details.
CLASSICAL PERFORMANCES The Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra (Mahidol University, 25/25 Phuttamonthon Sai 4 Rd) gives classical music-lovers three great reasons to get excited this month. On May 8 and 9, the group welcomes Berlin Philharmonic oboist Christoph Hartmann, who returns to Bangkok for another performance with the TPO, this one concluding with Zhou Long the powerful Roman Festivals by Ottorino Respighi. The next weekend, May 15 and 16, welcomes American conductor Delta David Gier and contemporary Asian composers Chou Wen-Chung, Narong Prangcharoen, Chen Yi, and Pulitzer-prize winner Zhou Long for The Exotic East. The TPO concludes its impressive itinerary on May 22 and 23 with Canadian trumpet soloist Jens Lindemann, who will round off his concert with the timeless Sheherazade. Each Saturday show starts at 7pm, with a pre-concert talk scheduled at 6.15pm; the Sunday shows start at 4pm, with talks at 3.15pm. Tickets range from B100 to B500. For more information, please call 0 2800 2525-34 ext. 153-154 or visit thaiticketmajor.com. The Embassy of Italy, in collaboration with The Gift of Life Foundation and Sala Sudasiri Sobha, presents Beethoven’s Complete Piano Sonatas performed by Christian Leotta. Born and raised in Catania, Italy, at age 22, the decorated pianist performed the entire catalogue of Beethoven’s sonatas. Since then, his career has blossomed, and he stands as one of the premier Beethoven soloists on the planet. His trip to Bangkok will incorporate nearly the entire month of May, with performances on May 4, 7, 11, 14, 18, and 21. Each show will feature a different selection of the time-honoured sonatas. The concerts start at 7.30pm each night, with cocktail receptions at 6.30pm. For reservations, please contact Sala Sudasiri Sobha at 0 2541 8662. Donations to The Gift of Life Foundation are greatly appreciated. 1 0 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Bangkok Farmer’s Market On May 16 and 17, visit Gateway Ekamai (Ekamai BTS) for the most recent Bangkok Farmer’s Market. From freshbaked bread and home-grown vegetables to natural beauty products, the bounty for sale delivers on the founding group’s commitment to non-GMO, organic, and pesticide-free products. There are games and treats to keep kids entertained, too. The farmer’s market runs from 10am until 7pm each day. Bringing reusable bags to tote purchases is greatly encouraged.
Thailand Golf Expo The Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre will be a busy little beehive from May 15-18, as it plays host to three sizable fairs. The biggest of the bunch, and the umbrella for the entire programme, is the Wonderful Thailand travel fair. Put together to promote domestic travel on weekdays, the expo will feature the best that Thailand has to offer in the tourism industry, from hotels and resorts to airlines and cruise companies. Held conjunction with this fair is the Thailand Dive Expo. Chocka-block with information about the industry, booth after booth dedicated to dive schools, technology, popular destinations, and even underwater photography and videography, the expo will appeal to all lovers of the life aquatic. Last but not least, the Thailand Golf Expo will run from May 14-17 at the convention centre, positioning the Kingdom as the premier destination for big swingers with myriad activities, promotions, and products to try. About 200,000 visitors are expected to attend the shows, so tread carefully. bangkok101.com
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hot plates
Vogue Lounge By Michael Moore
V
ogue Lounge at the MahaNakhon Cube development adjacent to the Chong Nongsi BTS station has some big shoes to fill. Established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine and licensed by publishing giant Conde Nast International, its pedigree demands something that transcends the ordinary. The first outlet of its kind, it has hit the ground running and doesn’t disappoint. The outlet’s interior was designed by the renowned David Collins Studio of London to reflect a 1920s chic Art Deco feel. It includes unique lighting, stunning brass bar stools, opulent leather seating and lots of white in the form of marble fixtures and floor tiles that are stunningly accented with contrasting black. Vogue’s cocktails (all B340++) were formulated by renowned Japanese mixologist Hideyuki Saito of Tokyo. Saito loves to include local fruits, infusions and spices in his drinks. A firm favourite is the “Our Thai,” a blend of Thai rum, plum wine, absinthe, fresh Thai mango, passion fruit, and house-made Thai chilli Tabasco. The blend of rum and tropical fruits, along with the chilli bite, make this a memorable drink. The menu and kitchen at Vogue Lounge are under the under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and formerly chef at the three-Michelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu here is small and most dishes (all B350++) are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks and conversation. There are also some plates to share, including Japanese Wagyu sirloin (B1200++) served with black truffle potato and smoked bone marrow butter. One of the many stand-out offerings is a cold appetiser of Alaskan king crab mascarpone mousse and tandoori spiced fruits. It represents a unique combination of flavours in a fresh format. Equally good is a warm appetiser of seared duck foie gras with cranberry chutney and mandarin. In fact, it is hard to choose between the two. The king crab wins accolades not only for its taste, but also for superb presentation, while the foie gras is highly enjoyable because of its decadence and the scrumptious accompanying cranberry chutney. In terms of main courses, lobster ravioli, Hokkaido sea urchin foam and baby spinach is also a delight and sets up perfectly a dessert of candied chestnut, mandarin sphere and gel, and Grand Marnier ice cream. Special mention must be made of Chef Thierry’s presentations. They are absolutely sensational and in keeping with the vibe Vogue magazine has worked hard to create over the years. And equally true to the Vogue DNA is the impressive music played at the Lounge. The sound system is extraordinary; there is a talented resident house DJ, and the lounge plays host to frequent events featuring guest DJs, as well. The music director, Maarten Goetheer, has worked across the best clubs in Asia and is dedicated to bring his signature style of uncompromising House, NuDisco and other hip genres to the outlet. Vogue Lounge, with its impressive genetic footprint, has officially arrived in Bangkok. Be sure to give it a try.
VOGUE LOUNGE [MAP 5/H6] 6th fl, MahaNakhon Cube, 6th Floor, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd 0 2001 0697 | voguelounge.com | Daily 10am-late
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Hot Wheels: Pizza Massilia has added a slice of pageantry to the food truck scene in Bangkok.
out & about
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Meals on Wheels A new wave of food trucks trumpets the evolution of great street eats in Bangkok BY CRAIG SAUERS
O
ne night in 2012, an oblong red truck rolled into RCA. Few seemed to notice its approach. Cosmic Café s hipster clientele was caught up in Sangsom and soda. The swell of clubbers inside Route 66 spilled out onto the wet asphalt a like tidal wave, golden light reflecting off the puddles. Even the worst of rainy season couldn’t shut down parties. It was, in a word, just another night in Bangkok. Within the freewheeling milieu of city nightlife, the truck settled into a parking spot, its bed fitted with a white metal cap and doors decorated with the stencil of a boy’s smiling face dividing “Daniel” and “Thaiger.” Metal rolling shutters lifted, revealing a griddle, a pillar of patties, and a burly, bearded man working beside a petite woman with a ponytail: Mark and Honey Falcioni. The grill was hot, the rain had stopped, but would anybody come? The couple in the mobile kitchen wondered. Daniel Thaiger was the first of its kind, a vanguard food truck in the capital of street eating. The Falcionis didn’t
Full Moon: tuk tuk’s aren’t just for tourists anymore. bangkok101.com
join the game — they set to work on their own, making up the rules on the fly, like basketball players on an empty court. It was a risky manoeuvre, and it didn’t catch on at first. “We were down to zero,” says Falcioni, a native of Los Angeles. “The day we started at RCA, we had run out of money. This isn’t an easy business, you know. It’s hot inside the truck, the hours are long, and you’re constantly prepping and transporting product. But we always knew we would succeed. We believed in our product. Feedback from customers in the beginning — ‘This is amazing, your burgers are awesome’ — and the first set of regulars we got: man, that was huge.” Two years on, with Daniel Thaiger more or less a permanent fixture on Soi 38, the food truck scene finally burst and bloomed. New players emerged from Thong Lo to Town in Town, selling pasta, pizza, and fresh seafood out of repurposed vans and flatbeds. The movement became one of artistic voice, as truck founders began to express their personalities through piebald colours,
Marc Falcioni shows off his Cowboy burger at CRAFT. M AY 2 0 1 5 | 1 5
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Jeremy Leech mans the grill in his iconic tuk tuk.
Orn the Road at its new home in Silom. layouts, and cooking styles. Some were bright, and others were basic, but all united under a common theme. In the heat of the 2014 food truck boom, a chef from Brooklyn named Jeremy Leech relocated to Bangkok. He had moved on a whim, extending a month-long holiday indefinitely. He had no hard-set plans, but he did have a culinary pedigree. Before long, he found a business partner, and, by the middle of July, the canary yellow Full Moon truck was born. The menu stuck to his Americana roots — cheesesteak, macaroni and cheese, thick-cut fries — and praise for it piled as high as his hamburgers. That is, once the public embraced the substantial portions he was serving. “At first, my food was a little heavy for people here,” says Leech, who, like Falcioni, has a robust beard, warm demeanour, and understated confidence. “After we started to give out samples, locals opened up to it. The tuk tuk’s helped, too. Customers recognize it,” he adds, making reference to the second incarnation of Full Moon: a beige three-wheeler that, until recast as the brand’s go-to vehicle for events, had remained a fixture in the On Nut night market. By appealing to a younger local crowd and maintaining a large, though not entirely unexpected, expat following, Full Moon has singled itself out within a rapidly expanding field. Diversification. That’s the key — not just for Leech, but for every cook with four wheels and a sense of adventure. The most successful food trucks have taken up multi-pronged strategies in business. Some have opened brick-and-mortar restaurants. Others have gone from storefront to street. Falcioni still runs his truck operation at night and during events, but he has also set up a stationary locale: Game Over, a lounge-style hangout for gamers that features 1 6 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Luca Appino pulls a margherita pizza from his mobile oven. Daniel Thaiger’s burgers and fries. When Peter Gale’s Woodstock Bar shut its doors in Thong Lo, he took his award-winning black bun burger to the streets. Now, he travels around town in the orange-clad Orn the Road food truck. Chef Luca Appino of the critically acclaimed La Bottega di Luca started his grandiose Pizza Massilia mobile venture because of an intrinsic urge to share gourmet food with the masses. He cooks up woodfired pizzas with toppings such as truffle mortadella and ratatouille, yet captures the energy of casual dining. Leech, on the other hand, has found success through events (Full Moon’s base in On Nut mostly functions as a means to build name recognition). The chef says with a laugh, “What set us off was Wonderfruit [in Pattaya]. I think I got six hours of sleep the entire weekend. Since then, we’ve gone to MAYA and Kolour in the Park, and we’re always doing condo openings and markets.” This year, the movement has gained even greater momentum. Events at Siam, Sathorn Square, and Esplanade, among others, have provided a public forum and cause to champion. The vendors have bonded like never before — there’s even a LINE group chat for food truckers. Unlike the first faces on the scene, the ventures involved with this recent resurgence have had the luxury of steady ground on which to build. The concept has been proven, the community established. Although the physical demands remain gruelling and inclement weather thwarts even the best laid plans, the start-up process no longer has the urgency it once did. Event organizers might as well have the chefs on speed dial, and the mobile style has evolved within the dining zeitgeist of the Thai capital. Nowhere is this animated shift more evident than at Pizza Massilia. When Appino talks about the ocean blue lorry parked behind MK Gold on Sala Daeng Road, his bangkok101.com
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out & about
With burgers this good, why stop at one? Daniel Thaiger stars at CRAFT on Sundays. voice carries a tenor of enlightenment. He can recall a childhood spent eating on the local piazza with his family in Torino, the seminal moments that sparked his symbiotic affair with food. “I can reach more people with this concept, show them that gourmet food isn’t [reserved] for just one class,” he says. “Our generation has lost touch with the taste. Decades from now, will we be able to tell the difference between an organic tomato and the canned stuff we buy in the supermarket?” That philosophical question drives his wood-fired assembly. Pizzas reach the table hot and fresh on sturdy cardboard. Customers sit on red metal chairs set up at tables topped with blue-and-white chequered cloths. They eat in the shade of banyan trees. A balance is struck between past and present. The pizza’s roots are evident in simple presentation, but the drama of modern cuisine is at play in the production, with incandescent bulbs that shout “Pizza Massilia” illuminating the night sky, laminated placards detailing the history of ingredients, and actual silverware gracing each table. More and more aspiring truck operators have found that the barrier to entry has lowered while the capacity for individual expression is high. In that regard, the field of few is at risk of getting watered down, with truckers diverting their attention from food and jumping in just for run. If collaboration gives way to competition, and Bangkok’s governance bites down on the nebulous zone in which the trucks operate, prices could soar, too. Falcioni seems bullish on the future in any case. “This is only a trend if you focus on the wrong things,” he says, offering what amounts to a verbal shrug. “I’m glad to see people pushing the envelope. It makes us work hard, really strive to innovate.” 1 8 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Though he doesn’t say it, the best will rise — they always do, in spite of the city’s fluid regulations — and the rest will fade away. Food trucks don’t have to be mobile, dressed to the nines like a pinup, cramped, or frantic anymore. As Falcioni affirms, “Wherever there’s good food, people are going to come.” Diners don’t need silver spoons to eat well: just a free hand and some extra napkins.
Still hungry? Go online to discover more about Bangkok’s finest food trucks. • Daniel Thaiger facebook.com/DanielThaiger • Full Moon facebook.com/FullMoonFoodTruckBKK • Orn the Road facebook.com/orntheroadbkk • Forkers facebook.com/forkersbkk • Kofuku Japanese Sandwich facebook.com/kofuku.japanese.sandwich • Mother Trucker facebook.com/MotherTruckerBKK • NakTom Toon facebook.com/naktomtoonthailand • Pizza Aroy acebook.com/Pizza.Aroy • Summer Street facebook.com/pages/SummerStreet
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Upper crust: Original French-style bread from Maison Jean Philippe 2 0 | M AY 2 0 1 5
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best of bangkok
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On the Artisan Trail Craft brands thrive in Thailand’s foodie marketplace BY JOE CUMMINGS
O
nce reserved for cheesemakers with alternative grooming habits and creative body art, the term “artisan” seems to be everywhere in Bangkok these days. Like “hipster”, which nowadays is considered a negative description in most Western countries, Thais tend to use the term admiringly, even though back in 2013, “artisan” made the New York Times’ list of “the most annoying, overused and abused words of the year.” While the word itself may have been co-opted by all the wrong people selling all the wrong products – see
Hamming it up: Pork products from Sloane’s Sausages. bangkok101.com
Dominos Artisan Pizzas, Starbucks Artisan Breakfast Sandwiches, and Tostito Artisan Tortilla Chips – the concept has gained significant traction in Thailand, even if the definition is blurred. Back when practically every person on the planet was a peasant, most things we owned and consumed were made by hand. The increasing industrialization of agriculture and food preparation drew a reaction from people who decided the old ways were better, and now every hipster foodie is an urban peasant. Unlike
Pasteurised paradise: A selection from Heaven On Cheese. M AY 2 0 1 5 | 2 1
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Bountiful bangers: Toulouse sausages from Sloane’s. the peasants of old, however, they are willing to pay substantially more for foods with an artisanal pedigree. This small but well-heeled market thrives in Bangkok, with new artisanal brands popping up all the time. A look at the proliferation suggests that the pillars of the foodie diet are bread, meat, cheese, coffee and booze. The star of the Bangkok baker’s guild, Maison Jean Philippe, follows a simple philosophy: use only the finest French flours, French butter, salt, and other ingredients available. Jean Philippe and his business partner Tom Kirk distribute freshly baked loaves to roughly 40 outlets in Bangkok. Jean Philippe says, “You cannot just call yourself an artisan in France as it has a legal meaning. But what we’re doing here is just the same as we would do in France.” From the Anglo angle, Michael Conkey of Conkey’s Bakery adheres to a similar creed, handcrafting bread using traditional techniques for improved flavour, aroma, and texture. Conkey’s baked goods make a regular appearance at the peripatetic Bangkok Farmers Market. Joe Sloane of Sloane’s Sausages left his job as an executive chef at a five-star hotel to start making sausages in his backyard. Today, his professional kitchen produces handmade charcuterie from headcheese to blood sausage. Joe claims that his products are not only full of flavour, but also ethical and sustainable. A batch of Sloane’s bacon takes two weeks to make. 2 2 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Also making his mark is Steve Craig of The Accidental Butcher. Since 2013 Craig has offered a choice of premium-grade, pasture-fed Angus and Wagyu in any of several cuts, along with lamb rump, all imported from Australia and guaranteed hormone-free. Aged cuts are
“YOU CANNOT JUST CALL YOURSELF AN ARTISAN IN FRANCE AS IT HAS A LEGAL MEANING. BUT WHAT WE’RE DOING HERE IS JUST THE SAME AS WE WOULD DO IN FRANCE.” JEAN PHILIPPE OF ARTISANAL BAKER MAISON JEAN PHILIPPE occasionally available, and Craig is happy to consider requests for other special orders. A recent addition to the traditional butchery is free-range kurobuta pork from Black Berkshire pigs raised in Chiang Mai. Since 2008 Reinhard Matheis and Chanida Sitthikeson of Heaven On Cheese have produced lovely small rounds of double brie, truffled brie, munster, reblochon and bangkok101.com
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Spirit of the South: Chalong Bay Rum camembert in Nakhon Sawan. In Bangkok their full line of cheeses is available at Opposite Mess Hall and the Thailand Farmer’s Market at K-Village on Sukhumvit 26. Heaven On Cheese is also available in Chiang Mai at Maibakery. Aside from cheese, the couple also makes sausages and home-cured, cold-smoked bacon. To wash down these delicious artisanal meats and cheeses, you’ll need a good lashing of spirits, and fortunately Thailand has three brands that fall into the handmade, high-quality category. Chalong Bay Rum, based in Phuket, crafts 100-percent natural rum from pure Thai sugarcane juice using traditional French distillation methods. Another island distillery, Magic Alambic Rum on Samui, produces plantation-style rum using fresh-squeezed Thai sugarcane rather than molasses (as in most of the Caribbean) and a traditional French alembic. The aromatic rum also comes in versions flavoured with pineapple, lemon, orange, or coconut. The third, and most Thai, of the handmade boutique liquors available is Chiang Mai-based Niikki Pure Spirit, an ultra-refined distillation of 100-percent organic rice sold in a clear glass bottle emblazoned with a logo designed by well-known Thai artist Thaiwijit Poengkasemsomboon. Owner Nikolaus Prachensky says Niikki Pure Spirit contains zero methanol, a by-product of fast-and-cheap distilling methods that leads to hangovers. bangkok101.com
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Beautiful bean: Artisanal coffee by Brave Roasters “Ours carries a slight fragrance of jasmine rice with a very clean flavour profile similar to vodka,” he says. In the future, Prachensky hopes to produce a pure rice vodka and a natural rum. His rice spirit is available in five-star hotel bars around Thailand as well as at select supermarkets. Coffee was one of the first and most successful artisanal products to become widely available in Thailand, due in large part to the fact that it is easily transported and stored. Four years ago Varatt Vichit-Vadakan started roasting beans in a large German-made Giesen on the premises of his Roast Coffee & Eatery, one of the early occupants of SeenSpace in Thonglor. His roasts were so popular that he soon opened Roots Coffee in a separate location and began supplying beans to other cafes around the country. On weekends Roots is open to bean-heads who want their fix direct from the source. Meanwhile at Brave Roasters, Ekameth ‘Tay’ Witvasutti cooks a modest 100 kilos of coffee each month, including three single-origin coffees from Doi Saket and Chom Thong in Chiang Mai province, as well as imports from Burundi, Ethiopia, Kenya and Guatemala. Brave Roasters supplies a number of cafes in Bangkok, including Casa Lapin outlets, Gallery Drip Coffee and his own One Ounce for Onion. “The general techniques involved in roasting the beans and making coffee are not so difficult to master,” says M AY 2 0 1 5 | 2 3
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Still life: Nikolaus Prachensky of Chiang Mai-based Niikki Pure Spirit. Tay, “but creating really excellent coffee requires an obsessive artisanal approach.” Many of these products turn up at the Bangkok Farmers Market, which convenes every third weekend of the month at Gateway Ekamai and sometimes at other locations such as Jam Factory. Along with artisanal foods, the community market also offers handmade clothing, jewellery, and other arts and crafts. Spring Epicurean Market, held on the last Sunday of every month on the lawn of Spring Summer Restaurant, offers its own collection of artisan-marketed foods, including pure fruit smoothies and juices, free of artificial flavours, colours, preservatives, chemicals, dairy, or sugar from Twist. The similar Thailand Farmer’s Market is held on the second weekend of the month at K Village. Bangkok’s “farmers” markets (we’ve never actually seen a farmer at one) are worth visiting to find smaller artisanal brands that aren’t well distributed elsewhere, such as My Job Is Pate (soups and mushroom pate, tel 08 1809 8555) and Guten Appetit! (homemade German sausages, tel 08 1855 7800). If you’re too lazy to make the farmers markets you can call Passion Delivery to arrange for the delivery of more than 200 high-quality artisan food products. Orders are sent out within 48 hours, and you can choose from such suppliers as Sloane’s, Accidental Butcher, Conkey’s Bakery, Maison 2 4 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Jean Philippe, My Iberico Spanish Delicatessen, Homemade Cheese Co, Marou Faiseurs de Chocolat and more. Craft beers and ciders can also be ordered from Passion Delivery.
For more information on Thailand’s leading artisanal food producers and outlets, visit the following: • theaccidentalbutcher.com • facebook.com/ConkeysBakery • sloanes-sausages.com • heavenoncheese.com • maibakery.com • chalongbayrum.com • rumdistillery.com • niikkipurespirit.com • rootsbkk.com • facebook.com/braveroasters • bkkfm.org • springsummer.com • twist-juices.com • passiondelivery.com
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Making Merit
Photo courtesy of Matt Willingham
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Making Merit
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Life Skills thrHugh Knife Skills Personal Development for Underprivileged Youngsters, with a Side of Sanuk
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wight Turner had dreamed of doing something like this for years, but it wasn’t until he moved into a house with a kitchen that he could actually turn vision into reality. With spatula in hand, the broad-minded founder of In Search of Sanuk seized the opportunity he had been waiting for and launched The Courageous Kitchen, a project under the umbrella of his well-known not-for-profit organization. “The actual cooking is the easy part,” says Turner of The Courageous Kitchen, a project that aligns nicely with the self-proclaimed BKK Fatty’s passion: food. “But, of course, there’s more to the story than showing up and turning on the oven. The kids have to plan, prep, clean up, and sometimes even shop for ingredients. Everyone has to work together and think critically. Those skills, coupled with the ability to provide nutrition for their families, will serve them throughout their lives.” To the unfamiliar, The Courageous Kitchen provides cooking classes for disadvantaged kids and teens. The project’s impact, however, extends beyond cutting board and burners. Turner and a cast of volunteer chefs teach students culinary cunning on one hand, and self-confidence, discipline, and the importance of eating a healthy diet on the other. On top of education, the volunteers deliver basic food supplies to students’ families. Last Thanksgiving, they distributed over 300 kilograms of rice to the needy. In March, they gave out a further 500 kilograms. When the project kicked off, classes were led primarily by Turner and Christy Innouvong, an American of ThaiLao descent who returned to the Kingdom to explore her culinary roots, teach English, and volunteer. Over time, The Courageous Kitchen has opened its doors to more and more chefs and humanitarians, including Kannika Kongkaew of Taburete and Chawadee Nualkhair, author of The Bangkok Glutton blog and “Thailand’s Best Street Food.” Recently, Chef Jess Barnes of the award-winning Opposite Mess Hall has partnered with Turner. Working bangkok101.com
together, the two have introduced a spread of new activities to The Courageous Kitchen, even launching a product line. “We sell items such as olives, pickles, and sauces at the local farmer’s markets and Opposite Mess Hall to spread the word about our project. So far, we’ve had great feedback,” says Turner. “The proceeds help us to continue the initiative, as well.” On an everyday level, the programme connects eager learners with volunteer teachers who have prepared recipes they want to share. “We try to cover a variety of food types, including Thai and Western, and healthy snacks,” says Turner. “The cooking classes take place in conjunction with an English learning activity or a lesson about a specific ingredient, such as Thai pumpkin, which is ordered or donated by local outlets like Adam’s Organics.” Thanks to the collaboration with Barnes, chefs from Opposite teach kitchen techniques each week, with a focus on nutrition and food safety. The programme with Opposite gives kids a firsthand look at a bustling kitchen. On the other side of the coin, it lets chefs share a slice of their lives with hungry learners from the rough neighbourhoods around Don Muang, Intamara, and Sukhumvit, areas where In Search of Sanuk already operates. “It’s not uncommon to see the older sibling of a child who participates in our volunteer pre-school, or whose family receives a housing and food stipend from In Search of Sanuk. Cooking and English classes on the weekend were an immediate hit with older students,” says Turner. “Now, the younger ones have taken notice. Even the parents are curious to see and taste what we’re cooking.” The Courageous Kitchen is evolving by the day, peppering new projects into the initiative. Those interested in learning about the classes, participating in one, or donating to the cause should visit insearchofsanuk.com. Chefs who can give of their time should contact insearchofsanuk@gmail.com. M AY 2 0 1 5 | 2 7
RICE IN ALL ITS FORMS IS A STAPLE OF THE ASIAN DIET
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Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON RICE
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e Thais usually don’t say grace or “Bon appétit!” before we start a meal. Instead, these days we tend to Instagram pictures of our food and blog about it. But we don’t just turn curry and khao suay into works of photographic art — we clean our plates. Rice is considered a life-giving entity, and it is so revered among many of us that we won’t waste a single grain of it. As bread or corn is to Western societies, so rice is the staple in most Asian cultures. Thai farmers are the “backbone of the nation,” with our economy largely relying on agriculture, particularly the white, red, brown, black, Jasmine, or sticky rice for which the country has become famous. In fact, Thailand’s GDP can rise and fall sharply each year depending on rice crop yields and exports, with floods, plagues, and rice pledging schemes causing disasters and even political scandals. To combat earthly maladies, Thai farmers turn to Mae Phosop, a rice deity similar to the goddess Ceres. Originating in Hindu traditions, she represents fertility and fruitfulness. As a deeply rooted ritual, Thai farmers pay homage to her during different stages of rice cultivation to ensure good harvests, and that everyone has enough food to eat. Each May, the royal Phra Ratcha Phithi Pheutcha Mongkol ceremony is held at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The procession then moves outside to Sanam Luang for Phra Ratcha Phithi Charot Phra Nangkan Raek Na Khwan, or the Royal Ploughing Ceremony. The two traditions mark an auspicious beginning to the rice growing season, bringing prosperity to the year’s plantation. The first ritual involves the blessing of rice seedlings from HM King Bhumibol’s Chitralada Palace. The second part sees two sacred Brahman oxen — or Phra Kho — ploughing a furrow in the royal field under the lead of the Phraya Raek Na, often represented by the permanent secretary from the Ministry of Agriculture and Cooperatives. The court Brahmins sow the seed, chant, and blow conch shells. After the ploughing, the oxen are offered food and drink, including rice, maize, green beans, sesame, fresh-cut grass, water, and rice whisky. Based on the food they consume, court astrologers and Brahmins predict crop yields and rainfalls. At the end of the ceremonies, by-standing farmers scramble into the field to collect the blessed seeds to increase their luck. bangkok101.com
After the sacred grain is harvested and milled, it assumes many guises in the Thai culinary repertoire. Beyond its familiar steamed and stir-fried manifestations, rice is also milled into flour that is used to make desserts such as lord chong (strings) or bua loy (small dumplings). It is dyed with natural pigments from flowers and herbs, which also impart different flavours and aromas. Sticky rice simmers with coconut milk to make the rich and toothsome khao nheaw bpiak. When toasted, rice becomes khao khua, which is used in larb (a spicy salad) and khao dtuu (a dessert). Rice and flowers, together as khao dtok dok mai, are strewn in ceremonies. Fermented and brewed, rice takes liquid form as ou or satho (Thai rice wines). Khao dtom (boiled rice) and congee are widely enjoyed for breakfast. Rice has also inspired art. Plaeng ghiew khao (harvest songs) and dances such as dten gum rum khaew (the dance of the harvest) are hardly heard or seen these days; however, rice has influenced several contemporary artists, such as Pratheung Aimcharoen, a self-taught painter and former rice farmer who has created several works inspired by his time in the fields. In 2005 he was honoured as a National Artist. A few years later, Sakarin Krue-on exhibited the “Ripe Project: the Village and Harvest Time.” The artist planted a rice paddy at a Bangkok gallery, as well as on a terrace at a castle in Germany, to show the value of hard work and simplicity within materialized society. Rice has earned its place in Thai lore. Nowhere is this more prevalent than in our vernacular. Consider King Ramkhamhaeng’s adage, “nai nahm mee pla nai naa mee khao” (Fish is aplenty in the water and rice is abundant in the fields). Courting couples and newlyweds are often referred to as “khao mai pla mun” (new rice and lip-smacking fish). When we appreciate someone’s gratitude or give thanks to those that feed us, we say “kid thueng khao daeng ghaeng ron” (thinking of red rice and hot curries). Finally, although red or brown rice may be healthier and more fashionable, many Thais prefer the plain white stuff. This is highlighted in the connotations of an old idiom, “pai ghin khao daeng,” which translates as “going to eat unpolished rice,” a euphemism for “going to jail,” where they used to serve inmates the cheapest form of our beloved staple. M AY 2 0 1 5 | 2 9
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Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
OR TOR KOR MARKET A COLLECTIVE CORNUCOPIA OF TASTY GOODNESS
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hether you’re visiting or residing in Bangkok, you can’t call yourself a foodie if you haven’t made at least one trip to Or Tor Kor Market. Sure, there are bigger food markets in the capital, such as the famed wholesale spree at Klong Toey, but there are none that can match the overall quality found at the well-organized and tidy array of vendors collected under one roof and administered by the Marketing Organization for Farmers (Or Tor Kor, sometimes spelled Aw Taw Kaw, is an abbreviation of the collective’s Thai name). Forget about yuppie pop-up “farmers markets” seen in Sukhumvit shopping centres. This is the original farmers market, run by real salt-of-the-earth farmers.
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In 2013, CNN Go ranked Or Tor Kor the fourth best fresh market in the world behind La Boqueria Market in Barcelona, Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo and Union Square Farmer’s Market in New York City. The market is located across the street from world-famous Chatuchak Weekend Market, and just steps away from the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station. On my most recent visit to Or Tor Kor, I was fortunate to stroll the market with Chris Ying, editor-in-chief of vaunted foodie journal Lucky Peach, and Prin Polsuk, sous chef at David Thompson’s Nahm. I’d brought Ying there for an overview of the Thai culinary toolbox, and to explore different varieties of Thai sausages as he had told me the bangkok101.com
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day before that he was writing a book on sausage cultures around the world. Like many discerning Bangkok chefs who dip into Or Tor Kor regularly, Polsuk was shopping for his restaurant kitchen. Prices tend to be a bit higher than at other fresh markets in the city, but most who shop here seem to be quite happy to pay more for higher-quality products and a much higher level of market hygiene. Whether it’s the quality and hygiene or simply the ‘be-seen’ factor, the market draws not only Bangkok’s top hotel and restaurant cooks, but also a steady trickle of Thai celebs and highsociety matrons. Over 200 vendors are spread out across a grid of small and large market stalls. Many vendors specialize in organic fruit and vegetables, and the market is particularly known for hard-to-find produce like som saa (bitter orange, traditionally used in many central and southern Thai recipes but often substituted by lime) and ma-prang (a sweeter, smaller relative of the mango). Mountains of dried fruits are on hand as well. On the day I visited, the market displayed the largest variety of mangoes I’d ever seen in one place. The high quality of local fresh meats, poultry, freshwater and saltwater fish and shellfish is exceeded only by imported stock carried by private dealers elsewhere. Live fish, crayfish and lobsters swim the murky depths of water tanks for those who demand the freshest. Ready-made foods such as curries, sausages, satay, barbecued meats, Thai sweets and much more are abundant. At one stall, I counted 16 large pots filled with brightly coloured curry contents, four ports deep and four pots wide. If you’d rather make your own curries at home, bangkok101.com
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you can select fresh-pounded curry paste from pungent mounds at stalls found towards the hall’s west side. At a stand with barbecued meats, I accepted a sample chunk of muu sam chan (‘three-level pork,’ encompassing meat, fat and hide) and declared it the best I’d had anywhere in Bangkok, including Chinatown. Towards the south end of the market, I found a small table where a vendor was selling bags of heavenly plaa som, salt-fermented snakehead fish delicately seasoned with palm syrup and toasted ground rice, a dish I’ve yet to find elsewhere in Bangkok. Regional foods are well represented as well. We counted four different stalls selling sai ua (spicy Chiang Mai-style sausage), naam phrik num (green chili dip) and other northern delicacies. Among the more famous vendors with takeaway dishes is Sut Jai Kai Yang, which has been serving northeastern Thai-style grilled chicken and somtam (spicy green papaya salad) at Or Tor Kor for more than 30 years. For fiery southern Thai cooking, I head to Jiap, a vendor who cooks up enormous pots of mouth-watering khanom jeen naam yaa (a soupy curry of ground fish, spices and coconut cream served over thin rice noodles) and other delights from her native Phuket province. If you don’t feel like takeaway, head for the food court in the centre of the hall, where a cluster of tidy kitchens serve spectacular home-cooked Thai meals, from noodle soups to elaborate curries.
OR TOR KOR MARKET 631 Kamphaeng Phet 1 | Daily 6am to 8pm.
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Bizarre
Thailand
A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.
LIFE AND DEATH SENTENCES The third and final excerpt from a biographical tale about the country’s last legalized assassin is dedicated in the book to the man himself: “In memoriam of Chaovaret Jaruboon, a gentleman, a rock ‘n’ roller and Thailand’s last executioner.” It’s included in The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales from Thailand.
Chaovaret Jaruboon is pictured by the real gun used to execute inmates at Bang Kwang Central Prison. It’s housed, along with these mockups, at the Corrections Museum in Bangkok. Photo by Jim Algie.
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LL THE GUARDS and prison officials referred to the death chamber in quasi-Buddhist terms as the “room to end all suffering.” It was surrounded by trees, freshly cut grass and flowerbeds brightened with red and yellow dahlias. These were some of the last sights the condemned men and women would ever see, after they received a blessing from a monk and the offer of a final meal, before they were led into the rectangular chamber that was the size of a windowless, one-bedroom apartment. Off to one side of the chamber stood the “spirit house”: a miniature Buddhist temple on a pedestal that served as a shrine and a home for the prison’s guardian spirit. Before each execution took place, Boonchu and the rest of his team, holding candles, incense and lotus blossoms, asked the deity for forgiveness while praying that the ghost of the 3 2 | M AY 2 0 1 5
deceased would not come back to haunt them, because they were not killing him out of malice, they were only doing their duty. The two guards who led the prisoner inside the death chamber then blindfolded him and tied him to a wooden cross. The guards put offerings of incense, a candle and a lotus blossom in his hands and tied them together with the sacred white thread that Thai monks use to bless people or ward off evil. Behind the cross was a ceiling-high bank of sandbags darkened with bloodstains. The sub-machine gun, mounted on a wooden tripod bolted to the floor, was the long arm of Thai law pointing an accusing finger at the condemned person’s back. The first five executions that afternoon went off like clockwork. After almost twenty years on the firing line, bangkok101.com
highlight Boonchu was stunned that he could walk into the death chamber and no longer be terrorized by all the memories and ghosts which had once lingered there to ambush him: prisoners screaming abuse or pleading for their lives, leg irons rattling, screams and gunshots, that horrible woman who gutted the baby and packed her full of heroin shouting, “I’ll kill you in my next life, you fat, ugly buffalo!” All was silent now. Either his conscience had made peace with the job or he and his team had become calloused old hands going through the motions on an assembly line of death. The trouble started when the guards led the last dead man walking into the chamber. He twisted out of their grip and fell to his knees in front of Boonchu. He began stammering in mangled Thai, broken English and some hill-tribe language, “Please, sir, I’m innocent. I didn’t know what was in the truck. I really didn’t know. They just paid me ten thousand baht to drive it.” When Boonchu had read through his file earlier today this was the case that had bothered him the most. The inmate was only twenty-five. He had four years of education and came from a hill tribe in Burma that Boonchu had never heard of. He’d been arrested driving a truck with fifty thousand methamphetamine tablets hidden in the back at a border crossing between the two countries. The kid claimed he didn’t know what the secret cargo was, an alibi reiterated by most drug dealers, but in his case it would not have been difficult to dupe someone with such little education.
These photos from an actual execution are on display at the Corrections Museum in Bangkok. Photos courtesy of the museum. bangkok101.com
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When the kid started weeping and wailing for his mother and sisters Boonchu walked out of the execution chamber. The warden was right behind him. The executioner stood in a trench of shade cast by the building’s eaves, smoking a cigarette and staring at the blindingly bright flowerbeds. The warden said, “What is going on?” He looked at his watch. “We’re now almost four minutes behind schedule.” Boonchu did not look at him. He kept staring at the red and yellow dahlias. “I don’t feel good about this one. The kid is only twenty-five. I’ve never had to execute somebody that young. Think about it. Think of all the mistakes we made at that age and nobody ever killed us for them.” “I agree with you. It is a tragedy that someone so young should turn to trafficking in narcotics. Personally, I blame it on greed and laziness. Young people today just don’t have the kind of work ethic we had. They expect all the riches in the world without having to work for them. But if we can make an example of this one that should stop hundreds more young people from entering the drug trade. Think of the long-term benefits.” The warden had the tunnel vision of the lifelong bureaucrat, focused like a magnifying glass on the most microscopic of tasks that fell under his jurisdiction, but blind to any of the bigger issues outside of his department. He could not even see any of the foliage that Boonchu was staring at. Right now he could not see anything except the hands of his watch, because their schedule had been delayed and he would have to answer for it. Over a three-decade career as a lawyer, judge, prison authority and advisor to the Ministry of Justice, the warden had honed his greatest and most dubious talent: how to exploit people at their most vulnerable while making it look like he had their best interests at heart. “You’ve got three beautiful daughters, you’re still married after all this time, and everyone knows you don’t cheat on your wife, which is more than you can say for most of us. You, my son, are a paragon of one man’s triumph over adversity, and you will not let your family down now. You will not turn your back on them and forsake your career. You will not let me down either, or the director of the Corrections Department, or the prime minister. When it comes right down to it, you are the bravest man in this prison system, the man who’s lasted the longest in this job. When we finally switch over to lethal injection next year, you will go down in Thai history as not only the last executioner but the greatest and most heroic of them all” The warden had fenced him in. Boonchu looked at the guard tower. He looked at the tangles of razor wire crowning the wall. He looked up at the blue sky and over at the gilded spirit house where the birds feasted and chattered. He looked at the cellblocks and finally, reluctantly, at the “room to end all suffering.” Who was he fooling? There was nowhere he could go. This was it. This was his life and his career. This is the final excerpt from the tale “Life and Death Sentences” from The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (Tuttle, 2014) by Jim Algie. The gory finale is continued in the book. M AY 2 0 1 5 | 3 3
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listings
Ananta Samakhom Palace Throne Hall
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE THRONE HALL [MAP 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadamnoen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [MAP 4/A3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2216 7368 jimthompsonhouse. com | 9am-5pm | B100/B50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [MAP 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 8185 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, Daily | B50/B20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION [MAP 8/F8] 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd | 0 2281 1569 | TueSun 9.30am-4pm | B100 3 4 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Erawan Shrine The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD PALACE [MAP 8/K11] Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 0 2245 4934 | suanpakkad.com | 9am4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
SHRINES ERAWAN SHRINE [MAP 4/G5] Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan BTS Chit Lom | Free Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE [MAP 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | Free A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE [MAP 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | Free
The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
TEMPLES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [MAP 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | Tha Chang Pier | 0 2222 0094, 0 2623 5500 8.30am-3.30 pm | B500 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
WAT ARUN [MAP 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd | 0 2465 5640 | watarun.com | 8am-5pm | B100 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.
WAT PO (RECLINING BUDDHA) [MAP 7/D12]
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd | 0 2226 0369 watpho.com | 8am-5pm | B100 bangkok101.com
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Wat Ratchanatda The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.
WAT MAHATHAT [MAP 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 0 2221 5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.
WAT RATCHANATDA [MAP 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 0 2224 8807 | 8.30am-6pm free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
WAT SAKET [MAP 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd | 0 2233 4561 7.30am-5.30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
Wat Arun sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT TRAIMIT [MAP 6/L3] 661 Charoen Krung Rd | 0 2623 1226 MRT HuaLampong | 8am-5pm | B50/B100 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [MAP 8/L11, 12]
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) Ratchaprarop Rd | 0 2245 3008 bangkokdolls.com | Mon-Sat 8am-5pm Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple
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Wat Traimit murals and illustrations from antique books.
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier 0 2233 7027 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
MADAME TUSSAUDS [MAP 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium 0 2658 0060 | madametussauds.com/ Bangkok | 10am-9pm | B800/B600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe’s famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop
WAT SUTHAT & THE GIANT SWING [MAP 7/H9]
Bamrung Muang Rd | 0 2222 9632 | 9am-9pm Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze bangkok101.com
Wat Suthat & The Giant Swing
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The National Museum stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 0 2653 5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm (App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it’s open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
MUSEUM OF SIAM [MAP 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier | 0 2622 2599 ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on
Royal Barge Museum elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [MAP 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 0 2224 1333 thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm B200 | no photo allowed Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam’s main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [MAP 7/K7]
100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02621 0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [MAP 7/B4]
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80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 0 2424 0004 | 9am-5pm | B30/ B100 photo/B200 video This collection of ornate royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the
Ancient Siam river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [MAP 1/F6]
296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan 0 2709 1644 | ancientcity.com B500/B250 kids/B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing.
THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province | nfat.org 0 2482 2013-15 | Sat-Sun | tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; MonFri: by appointment | Free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, props and costumes. bangkok101.com
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Bawarchi Chidlom President Tower Arcade ( Intercontinental Bangkok B - Level, 973, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2656 0102 - 3
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Indian - Thai Chambers of Commerce, 13 Sathorn Soi 1,Thungmahamek, Sathorn Road, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2677 6249
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Bawarchi Sukhumvit 4 Bawarchi Sukhumvit 11 Bawarchi Myanmar 20/11 Sukhumvit Soi 4, Khlongtoey, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : + 66 2656 7357
(F/ 1-3 Ambassador Hotel) Sukhumvit Soi 11, Bangkok, Thailand Tel : +66 2253 2394
No . 37 Level 1 , La Pyayt Wun Plaza , Alan Pya Pagoda Road ,Dagon Township, Yangon , Myanmar Tel : 09253500002 / 03
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WHEN THE WIND BLOWS: PATTAYA PLAYS HOST TO THE ANNUAL “TOP OF THE GULF” REGATTA 3 8 | M AY 2 0 1 5
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TOP OF THE GULF REGATTA
PATTAYA
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alling all yachties! Now in its eleventh year, the 2015 Top of the Gulf Regatta sets sail from Jomtien Beach’s Ocean Marina Yacht Club near Pattaya. Staged from April 30 – May 4, this is the only multi-class regatta of its kind in Thailand, with keel boats, multihulls, beach catamarans, dinghies and Optimists all competing. Mr. William Gasson, Co-Chairman, Top of the Gulf Regatta Organizing Committee says, “We will again be welcoming a diverse fleet spread over 12 classes and expect to have over 200 boats and approximately 600 people taking part.” The regatta is unique in Thailand in that it is operated from a marina providing safe and secure berthing for competitors each evening, as well as having the full complement of onshore services and facilities from Ocean Marina Yacht Club. Each day once the racing is finished, thirsty sailors and guests come together to kick back with a cocktail or two at a host of fun venues. Check out topofthegulfregatta.com for more information.
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May 8 – 10 Bun Bung Fai Rocket Festival One of the noisiest festivals on the calendar takes place in the usually sleepy Northeastern town of Yasothorn. For the Bun Bung Fai Rocket Festival, farmers pack giant, ornate rockets (bung fai) full of homemade explosives, drag them on elaborate traditional cart to the launch sight and then, on the third day, fire them high into the sky. Why? According to the folklore, the first raindrops of the rice planting season only fall when the gods are in the mood for love. Firing missiles in their direction is said to stimulate them into action. Lots of rambunctious Isan-style merriment-comedy, fun fairs, beauty contests, and mor-lam folk music accompany the festivities.
May 23 – 30 Samui Regatta The annual Samui Regatta, also known as the Tropical Island Regatta, one of the Asia’s largest sailing events and the final leg of the Asian Yachting Grand Prix, takes place at Chaweng beach on Koh Samui. Join the fun on the sand or get up close to the action from the comfort of a spectator boat. For more information about race entry forms, ticket details and event schedule, visit samuiregatta.com
May 26 – Jun 6 Songkla Seafood Festival A visit to this southern city simply isn’t complete without sampling the famous local seafood. During this annual extravaganza a cornucopia of marine fare attracts visitors by the thousands. They come to dine on freshly cooked local seafood delights that include lobster, crab, squid and myriad kinds of fish. The festival also features various activities such as a Miss Samila contest, the sale of local handicraft products, and folk art shows.
Until May 31 Freshwater Jellyfish at Khao Ko National Park Freshwater jellyfish are only found in six places around the world, the renowned eco-tourist destination of Khao Ko National Park in Thailand’s central region being one. May is the last month of the year in which these living fossils can be found floating in their natural habitat. A visit to the area also offers deciduous forests with rare plants and a diversity of animals on both sides of the Lam Namkeg River best viewed from a canoe. Check out tourismthailand.org for more information.
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Until May 31 Alangkarn Lantern Festival 2015 To celebrate the historic relationship between Thailand and China, tourists are invited to witness a number of magnificent Chinese lanterns imported from Sichuan province, which are exhibited at Thai Alangkarn Theater, Pattaya, from 5pm – 11pm throughout May. There are also Chinese acrobatic shows and painting demonstrations by renowned Chinese artists. Tickets costs B150 for adults and B100 for children. Free entry for children under 90cm. Please contact 09 0129 2316 for more information.
Throughout May (running until Jul 31) Pang Sida Butterfly Festival Observe more than 400 types of butterflies in Pang Sida National Park at Sa Kaeo Province. Buy products from different districts at the OTOP market in the city, watch a butterfly parade and visit a butterfly exhibition. Enjoy live music, dance, folk sports and more. For more information contact the Pang Sida National Park Office at 0 3724 6100.
Jun 1 Visakha Bucha Pilgrimage to Doi Suthep Local Buddhists, and others seeking to make merit, gather in Chiang Mai on the night of Visakha Bucha and walk together from Wat Mou Boon, near the Kruba Srivichai Monument, to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. (The temple is commonly known as “Doi Suthep” although the shorter name in fact refers to the mountain.) Later in the evening, visitors can witness a ceremony in which holy Buddha images are sprinkled with sacred waters. From the temple’s location high on the mountain, awesome views of Chiang Mai can be seen below. If the hike proves too demanding, there are also songtaew taxis that drive up from the city.
Jun 6 The 6th Samed in Love Music Festival Bring your sun-tan lotion and go with the flow at the Samed Beach Festival. The festival features performances by various Thai singers and DJs including Mild, Paradox, Slot Machine, Polycat, BoomBoom Cach and Dj.Lazerface Recs. These and others will have festival-goers dancing on the sand. Another highlight is a huge foam-bath in which revelers can cool off. Tickets are on sale at ThaiTicketMajor for B1200.
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The Thahan Bok Theatre, a cinema built for army personnel in 1941
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IN THE FIELD MARSHAL’S SHADOW Lopburi’s Art Deco Heritage BY LUC CITRINOT
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amous for its motley crew of free-range monkeys gallivanting down the streets of the city centre, Lopburi holds a wealth of heritage sites that often fly under the radar. It starts with Wat Prang Sam Yot, one of the most beautiful Khmer-style temples in Thailand, and continues with the ruins of King Narai. Even lesser known, however, are the magnificent Art Deco buildings, all ordered by one of Thailand’s most controversial figures in contemporary history, Field Marshal Plaek Phibunsongkhram. Thailand has sometimes had trouble confronting the ghosts of history. That maxim holds true when talking about Field Marshal Phibunsongkhram. The Kingdom’s strong man became prime minister in 1938, holding office until 1944 and again from 1948 to 1957. Some historians look at him as the man who tried to reproduce Siam — which he renamed Thailand, meaning “the country of free men” — in the form of a European fascist state. Others justify the Field Marshal’s political action as that of a true patriot who had the best interests of the Kingdom at heart. “He was dedicated to keeping Thailand independent and free at a time when the country was surrounded by colonial empires and communism was advancing in China,” explains Ambassador Pradap Phibunsongkhram, grandson of the former ruler. Political controversy aside, Phibunsongkhram’s legacy paints him as one of the most passionate promoters of modern architecture in Thailand. During his tenure, many imposing structures were built in Bangkok and the
surrounding provinces, each reflecting the new societal principles of Phibunsongkhram’s People’s Party (Khana Ratsadon). The style that swept the land rested on straightforward, geometrical motifs and the presence of six columns on main facades, each representing a principle based on the People’s Party ideology and programme. Bangkok has managed to preserve just a few of these classic structures — the latest to vanish was the Supreme Court near Sanam Luang, razed at the end of 2014. Lopburi, on the other hand, has been spared similar destruction, retaining large parts of the Field Marshal’s architectural heritage. And, fortunately, it is even being recognized as a potential tourist attraction by local authorities. In 2013, the Tourism Authority of Thailand issued a free guide to Thailand’s historical cities with a chapter entirely dedicated to architecture in Lopburi in the 1930s, when this sleepy provincial town, whose glory days date back to the 17th century under King Narai, became part of a grand plan to establish a model city, including educational institutions for the military. “According to accepted convention, the urban development of modern Lopburi owes its origin to its strategic geographical importance. Located at the heart of Thailand, the city has been seen as a second stronghold since the Ayutthaya period. More recently it has hosted the country’s major combat units, including the Army Air Division, Army Special Warfare Command, and Army Artillery Training Centre. Field Marshal Phibunsongkhram
Phibul Wittayalai School
Thai Military Bank’s Lopburi branch
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The Ananda Mahidol Hospital, formerly a military facility, now an exhibition hall detailing the life of HM King Rama VIII. knew full well that a second military sanctuary was crucial to the survival of his regime. Hence he began to construct army barracks at Lopburi, which became a full-scale urban development project under his premiership,” explains Koompong Noobanjong, Associate Professor at King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology, and author of Power, Identity, and the Rise of Modern Architecture: from Siam to Thailand. “While Lopburi’s modern architecture is remarkable, my fascination does not dwell so much on the stylistic expressions of the buildings as on the fact that they once collectively served as a material manifestation of Phibunsongkhram’s vision of Thai identity, or Thainess, as promulgated by his Nation Building Program,” he adds. But thanks to that singular vision today Lopburi offers travellers Thailand’s finest Art Deco buildings, constructed in pure, minimalist style. The new town was built around a central thoroughfare, Narai Maharat Road. With its large lanes and grand roundabouts graced by fountains and commanding monuments, the street adhered to the popular aesthetic of totalitarian countries of the era, evocative in some ways of Berlin, Moscow, or Rome. It may have been out of place, but it was beautifully built nevertheless. Along Narai Maharat, buildings indicative of the style remain open to the public. The only difficulty is locating them — foreign visitors will notice a lack of signposts and directions written in English. Architecture buffs with a sense of adventure should look to the backgrounds of lawns and public squares; the buildings are easy to identify, thanks to their smooth and even construction. Most impressive are the elegant buildings of the Phibul Wittayalai School, located within a large, leafy compound. Its main building and two secondary structures exude the simple elegance of Art Deco with their symmetrical lines. An exceptional ensemble of period buildings can be found at the Ananda Mahidol Hospital. The main building 4 4 | M AY 2 0 1 5
has been carefully restored — it even earned an award from the Association of Siam Architects — the structure looming over the grounds with a distinctive elegance that has no equivalent in regional architecture. Just behind the main pavilion, the former radiology centre stands regal with large stained glass windows and a proud rotunda. Along the main street, back toward the city centre, the main hall of Thepsatri Rajabhat University and the nearby Military Bank round out the neighbourhood with dignity. The ‘Chateau,’ a modernist villa erected in 1934, lies further afield, against the backdrop of Nam Jone Mountain. In its day, it served as a training premise for the Artillery School as well as a reception villa for visiting foreign dignitaries. The builders used natural materials to give the Chateau an appearance similar to chalets in mid-century Colorado. In 1958, the villa was turned into a free-ofcharge museum, primarily to display Phibunsongkhram’s personal belongings; however, strange though it may sound, written permission is required for entry. The last stop on the Art Deco tour of Lopburi is Thahan Bok Theatre. Built in 1941, the old cinema was part of the propaganda puzzle for a government that sought to provide rest and relaxation for its servicemen. Still property of the military, the theatre has been closed for over a decade, waiting for a revival. It remains a great subject for amateur photographers, though, with a fitting statue of the late Field Marshal out front scanning the horizon.
Getting There Lopburi is located northeast of
Ayutthaya, roughly two hours from Bangkok. Lodging is scarce, however. Your best bet might be to stay in Ayutthaya, just 45 minutes away. Distances within the city are relatively short. Narai Maharat Road is only 5 minutes by foot from Lopburi Wat Prang Sam Yot. A car is necessary to visit Mahidol Hospital.
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The rice terraces of Maligcong stretch endlessly into the murky horizon
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Stairways to Heaven Maligcong, a lesser-known rice-terraced star of the Philippines, hidden between the country’s Cordillera tourist hubs, bears its brilliant secrets. WORDS BY MARCO FERRARESE; PICTURES BY KIT YENG CHAN
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herever I look, I’m surrounded by an amphitheatre of green, crisscrossed by paths chiselled into the slopes of hills that roll away beyond the horizon. A giant hand has strewn their flanks with clusters of concrete and metal homes. They stand on the slopes as if they were grains of salt sprinkled on top of a shimmering salad. Walking along concrete lines embossed like blood vessels on this forgotten world, we are like fleas combing through the green fur of an enormous creature. We are not daydreaming: it’s just the exhilarating effect of the untamed natural beauty around us.
Looking at a map of the Cordillera, the mountainous crown at Luzon’s head, just a night’s ride north of Manila’s hustle, there’s no obvious reason to come to Maligcong, a bucolic village in the province of Bontoc. The village is a way-point between the two most famous destinations in the mountain trail: Banaue with, its valley carved by spectacular rice terraces, and Sagada, the Cordillera’s adventure and backpacking capital. But some of the bestkept secrets remain hidden on maps. As I bump up and down in the jeepney, the Philippines answer to the songthaew, passing from Banaue to
Taking a rest from hiking the hilly terrain
Stick in the mud: quiet days in Maligcong
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A gang of boys loiter on the jeepney Bontoc, a couple of German tourists ask where I’m headed. I’m not surprised to see their brows furrow when I answer Maligcong. “Aren’t you going to Sagada?” they ask. Sure, I think, but not yet — not without making one important stop first.
HUNDREDS OF POOLS BELOW CHANGE COLOUR AS I AMBLE ALONG, OBSERVING THE PLAY OF THE SUN’S RAYS ON THE HILLSIDE. IT’S LIKE WALKING ALONG THE LINES OF AN EVER-CHANGING, THREEDIMENSIONAL CHECKERBOARD. Travellers coming this way don’t seem to appreciate the bustling mountain-town charms of Bontoc. They stay just as long as it takes to jump into — or on top of — another jeepney and transfer to either Sagada or Banaue, remaining blind to the striking hills and graceful valleys. I’d visited years ago. Back then this transition point was a serious step up in traffic and human activity compared to the other stops along the Cordillera circuit. I remember seeing Maligcong appear in the valley below as I leaned on the top railing of a crowded jeepney, climbing 4 8 | M AY 2 0 1 5
seven steep kilometres from the noise of a teeming market to the remoteness of the other side of the same mountain. Little has changed since then. The rolling panoramas carved in the shape of gigantic rice-growing staircases continue to extend as far as the eye can see. The difference, however, is that the activity has totally vanished. “Are you staying the night?” asks a skinny man, wrapped into a brown leather jacket, who’s rubbing elbows with me on the jeepney. “I believe so,” I reply. “Watch the time, then. If you want to return to Bontoc, the last ride down is at 2pm,” he says as we bend forward to avoid a tree branch swinging overhead. “You can stay with Suzette. She has one of the two home-stays in the village.” His advice is opportune — it’s almost 12.30pm and I’ve come all the way here to explore at leisure. I’m in no rush. Nor should I be. The jeepney halts at the centre of Maligcong, a deadend surrounded by houses on stilts set against a backdrop of interconnected rice terraces. The view takes my breath away at once. “Follow the paths along the slopes and you can walk as far as Banaue,” suggests the sage travel companion, before setting forth up the road, fading into the scenery. Before I can join him amidst the veins of Maligcong’s rice terraces, I set out in search of Suzette’s. It’s not hard to locate her home, but, when I arrive, with the exception of a rooster spreading its wings in welcome, it seems like nobody’s manning the place. I have to wait bangkok101.com
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The stunning view of the valley below
Hoops high in the sky around the courtyard for a while before a woman, dressed for winter in a windproof jacket and beanie hat, emerges from the depths of a wooden house. “I just had a very big group from Manila. I’m closed today,” she says. “I can refer you to my friend’s guesthouse.” But her home stay has an enchanting view of the valleys. From a wooden veranda that extends over a bend of Maligcong’s only street, the picture is pure and unobstructed. I’d rather not leave. We seal a deal quickly: she won’t have to clean up the room, and I’ll make do with whatever victuals she can muster. She’s not short on hospitality, though. As soon as I put down my backpack, she reappears on the veranda holding a steaming flask of mountain tea to try. Boiled out of leaves she plucked directly from the surrounding slopes, it’s as light and fresh as the surrounding air. Suzette offers hiking advice, and I’m soon on the path. She says I could walk as far as Mainit, a village on the other side of the mountain typically reached by jeepney, if I felt like it. My goal for the day is much more modest — I just want to hike as far as the local primary school, a cluster of wooden buildings at the top of the highest terrace in view. Maligcong’s peculiarity is the way in which the rice terraces have been fortified with stone walls, and not simply carved out of the hillsides. These stone-terraces should be an attraction every bit as big as those at Banaue; however, the valley has yet to gain much outside attention, and that remains its greatest charm. In fact, the bangkok101.com
Lovebirds or fighting fowl? only people I encounter on the snaking stone path are school kids on their way back home or farmers hopping in and out of the rice fields. There’s absolutely no stress from anyone interested in making a quick buck out of travellers, either. At this time of the year, the terraces are filled with water and mud, and the rice plants are still nowhere to be seen. Hundreds of pools below change colour as I amble along, observing the play of the sun’s rays on the hillside. It’s like walking along the lines of an ever-changing, threedimensional checkerboard. I come up to a woman knee-deep in the mud, bent over planting rice shoots. She’s a bit camera-shy, but is happy to point the way to the school’s grounds. On reaching the hilltop, I stop to catch my breath, cool down in the stiff breeze charting the valley, and take in the remarkable views. Just behind the school, a mountaintop clearing has been transformed into a small basketball court. Even in the splendour of this rugged seclusion, there’s no getting away from the national sport, but what a breath-taking spot to play. Returning down the hill, I ask an old woman crouched in the tall grass for directions to Maligcong, and, more to the point, Suzette’s. She’s taking a rest from lugging a wooden basket full of farm tools up the hill. We don’t speak a common language, but, smiling, she sweeps her arm proudly at the beautiful vista before us. It’s all Maligcong to her. One wonders how much longer this pastoral idyll will remain the way she and generations before her have known it. M AY 2 0 1 5 | 4 9
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POPLITICALLY INCORRECT Saint Hoax, a Middle Eastern artist, satirist, and sociopolitical activist, is infatuated with popular culture and politics drove. It is this infatuation that drove him to embark on his PoPlitical journey, a series of images that combine tangible and digital mediums to create beautiful visual lies that tell an ugly truth. At the end of this month he debuts his first solo show in Bangkok at The Adler Subhashok Gallery. Titled “PoPlitically Incorrect”, it features his satirical series of reimagined popular icons. The world’s most recognized figures become almost unrecognizable once merged with Hoax’s vision. The show is an interactive journey that rewrites history by turning gunpowder into glitter, and tyrants into faux queens. Saint Hoax has a talent for smashing the worlds of pop cultural and politics into each other in a way that makes hearts and minds explode. In previous series, he has reimagined the notorious kiss between Madonna and Britney Spears at the 2003 Video Music Awards — and Snow White, Ariel, and Princess Jasmine as bi-curious exhibitionists. “Saint Hoax: PoPlitically Incorrect” will be on view from April 30 to June 12 at The Adler Subhashok Gallery Bangkok, 160/3 Sukhumvit 39. Open Mon-Sat from 10am5pm. Contact 0 2662 0299 for more information.
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exhibitions
A PAUSED DREAMS
KATHMANDU GALLERY [MAP 5/E5] 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 0 2234 6700|Tue-Sun 11am-7pm | kathmandu-bkk.com l BTS Chong Nonsi
May 9 – June 28 Cattleya Jaruthavee’s new photographic series, ‘A Paused Dream’, is a powerfully sad portrait of youth: to be so young and already burdened with the sour smell of disappointed hopes; a sprightly dance record, full of impossible yearning, forever stuck in a melancholy groove. Bangkok-born and raised, British-Thai photographer Cattleya has exhibited in London, Bangkok, Phnom Penh, and Yangon.
SUBCUTANEOUS INFRASTRUCTURE BRIDGE ART SPACE [MAP 5/B6] Charoen Krung Soi 51 I 08 7682 2221, 08 6986 9421 I 10am12am I facebook.com/bridgeartspace I BTS Saphan Taksin
Until May 22 The finely crafted, predominantly wire frame sculptures of Natee Tubtimthong and Wisut Yimprasert are concerned with nature, living creatures and the surrounding elements. The two artists attempt to visualise the intangible essence of existence with further layering related to spiritualism.
THERE IS NO BOX
THAVIBU GALLERY [MAP 5/D5] F4, Jewelry Trade Center, Suite 433, 919/1 Silom Rd.| 0 2266 5454 | Mon-Sat 11am-7pm | thavibu.com l BTS Surasak
Until May 23 A series of oil paintings by Vietnamese artist Bui Thanh Tam is exhibited at Thavibu Gallery. By any definition, Vietnam ranks as a conservative culture that, like many others in Southeast Asia, is changing rapidly. Tam’s paintings examine the evolution of his home country’s society from a number of angles, each tackling different issues.
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LANDSCAPE 2007-2014
SERINDIA GALLERY [MAP 5/C3] OP Garden, Unit 3101, 3201, 4-6 Soi 36 Charoen Krung Rd | 0 2238 6410, 08 7681 7882 | Tue-Sun 11am-8pm I serindiagallery.com
Until May 31 Also known for running his own art space, RMA on Sukhumvit 22, photographer Piyatat Hemmatat’s 2013 exhibition - Third Eye Trilogy - was a great commercial success for Serindia. Seven years in the making, he returns with a series of subtle landscapes printed in high quality formats.
DANCE A PRAYER
PANDORA ART GALLERY 10/4 Convent Rd | 0 2633 5333 | florenda.pandoraartgallery@ gmail.com | BTS Chidlom
Until June 6 From her roots in America to her sojourns in France, Southeast Asia, Croatia, and most recently India, U.S. sculptorphotographer Lesleigh Goldberg closely observes and absorbs life’s myriad changes through the lens of her camera. She uses the computer to manipulate, morph, juxtapose, contextualize and de-contextualize layered meanings in her photographs. These images often incorporate architectural elements, the sky, and the sea as captured during her travels across the world.
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Full Exposure Bangkok’s art scene continues to grow with the arrival of YellowKorner, the latest concept gallery in the global group founded a decade ago in France by Alexandre de Metz and Paul-Antoine Briat.
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interview
B
illing itself as a “breakthrough gallery for a new generation of collectors,” the new YellowKorner art space at the recently opened EmQuartier Department Store on Sukhumvit Road brings together iconic photography by famous contemporary and period photographers including Man Ray, Atelier Harcourt, Yann Arthus Bertrand, Gustave le Gray, Eugène Atget, Dorothea Lange, Jean Dieuzaide, Bert Stern, Frank Horvat, Kimbei, Nadar, and Léon Gimpel. Established in 2006, YellowKorner operates 56 galleries in Europe, eight in America, eight in Asia, two in the Middle East, and one in Africa. This latest outlet in Bangkok – introduced by Jonas Naim-Cohen and Khun Pathompong Charoenwut, the people behind renowned brand BsaB – is set to become a hub for young blood collectors. It is very much in keeping with the ethos of YellowKorner’s founders, which is to champion the greatest photographers from all over the world and to increase the number of copies of their work by making them accessible to as many collectors as possible. YellowKorner photographs are selected by a committee composed of a dozen experts under the authority of the founders. Each member of this committee is a specialist of a particular photographic genre ranging from the antique prints of the 1880s to contemporary works of the present day. This robust selection process means that several YellowKorner artists who were yesterday’s hopefuls are included amongst today’s most renowned photographers. The gallery also intends to be a springboard for young local photographers. “YellowKorner is the gallery for aspiring young collectors,” says Jonas Naim-Cohen, a managing director and co-founder of the recently opened outlet in Thailand. “Our main goal is to offer high-quality iconic imagery at friendly prices. In this we aim to be a platform for artistic bangkok101.com
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talent from various photographic genres, with the works of promising local contemporary artists alongside the big names in photography, artists who have agreed to increase the number of prints from a selection of their works in order to offer Bangkokians affordable prices. These prints are exclusive to YellowKorner.” As a leading exhibitor of accessible art photography, the YellowKorner gallery in Bangkok will also aim to become a forum for creative dialogue between the public and artists. “We want to be a top-of-mind exhibition space, a place of culture where art-loving members of the public can meet with photographers and exchange ideas. To this end we plan to organize regular photo related events, book signings, lectures given by prominent experts in the field of photography, and photographic workshops and masterclasses. We want to encourage photographers and collectors to get together in a spirit of sharing, in a spirit of photographic discovery,” says Pathompong Charoenwut, the other founding partner of the gallery. In order to offer top quality prints, all YellowKorner photographs are created as silver gelatin prints produced by a professional laboratory and supplied with a certificate of authenticity. This method ensures that the power of the image and the richness of the artist’s work are fully captured. With the artist’s consent, the same photograph is available in one of several formats (20x30cm, 24x36cm, 60x90cm, and 100x150cm).
YELLOWKORNER BANGKOK Visit YellowKorner Bangkok at the fourth floor, EmQuartier Department Store, Sukhumvit Rd, or visit yellowkorner.com for more information.
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cheat notes
TERROR AND TRAGEDY A Unique Photographic Narrative of the Khmer Rouge’s Capture of Phnom Penh
F
orty years have passed since Phnom Penh fell to the Khmer Rouge. French photojournalist Roland Neveu was there on that fateful day, 17 April 1975, when armed forces marched into the capital, laying claim to the land, streets, and buildings. The true horror of the regime not yet evident, Neveu snapped shots of the incursion and subsequent events that today exist in a bubble, as few other visual mementos from those decisive days have survived the test of time. Although most Khmer Rouge tribunal hearings have ended and this sad chapter of Cambodian history has been closed, many questions about the greater story remain unanswered. First published in 2009, Neveu’s pivotal book, The Fall of Phnom Penh, seeks to provide clarity to the lingering issues through the lens of his 35mm camera. Black and white images of trucks and tanks flanked by curious pedestrians speak to the rapid unravelling of politics in the nation, to the eerie calm that enveloped the capital. Who could suspect such brutality would arise from the takeover, such untold death and destruction? The same theme appears in colour shots of locals standing nonplussed around a pile of automatic weapons. After a forced retreat to the French Embassy, the intrepid cameraman was at last ushered safely out of the country with the handful of others who had remained. His images survived. They are now crucial to new generations, particularly of young Cambodians who must process the
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meltdown of their homeland and come to grips with the horrors of the past in order to shape a better future. This new issue of The Fall of Phnom Penh comes with a handful of updates, as well as a handsome redesign. The book’s power, however, has not changed. Snapshots by Neveu early in his career, they stand witness to one of the twentieth century’s defining moments. The Fall of Phnom Penh is available at leading local bookstores and is priced at B1250. Head over to Soy Sauce Factory (Soi 24 Charoen Krung Rd) to view many of the book’s photos in an exhibition which runs until May 24.
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art & culture photofeature
ANCIENT ROOTS, CULINARY CROSSROADS: The Foods of Northern Thailand Oregon native Austin Bush enjoyed his first taste of northern Thai food while studying in a Thai language programme at Chiang Mai University in 1999. Hooked on the region as well as the cuisine, Austin found himself spending more time in northern Thailand when he began updating guidebooks for Lonely Planet in 2005. After shooting hundreds of photos for the Australian publisher as well as other travel publications, he established his own photo website, out of which grew a popular blog (www.austinbushphotography.com/blog) dedicated to Thai cuisine. More recently, Austin provided images for American chef Andy Ricker’s best-selling Pok Pok: Food and Stories from the Streets, Homes, and Roadside Restaurants of Thailand. In February, stylish urban resort Tamarind Village Chiang Mai sponsored “Ancient Roots, Culinary Crossroads: The Food of Northern Thailand,” an inspiring exhibition of colourful and informative images from Austin’s personal photo collection. The exhibition’s comprehensive coverage of northern Thai cuisine mirrors the region’s remarkable diversity, bringing together images and creatively assembled displays that introduce the unique dishes, ingredients, personalities, and cooking techniques of northern Thailand, along with the rich cultural and geographical roots that have shaped them.
Austin’s vibrant photography and substantial written narratives introduce viewers to emblematic northern Thai dishes such as laap muang (spicy, raw, minced-meat salads laced with dried spices and pungent herbs) and nam phrik (chili-based dips eaten with balls of glutinous rice). Nam phrik in particular reflect the simplicity of a cuisine which, for centuries, has been based on rice, fish, vegetables, and herbs. Northern Thailand’s celebrated khao soy, a chickenor beef-based curry broth served with wheat-and-egg noodles and sides of lime, pickled vegetables, and shallots, also receives ample coverage, along with less commonly known dishes prepared by the Akha tribes of the North. The exhibition also explores the significant influence of neighbouring cuisines in China and Myanmar. “Ancient Roots, Culinary Crossroads: The Food of Northern Thailand” continues until May 31. During that time, the resort’s Ruen Tamarind Restaurant is offering a special Kong Gin Bon Doi (Food on the Mountain) menu consisting of a selection of northern Thai nam phrik served with local vegetables and sticky rice. ------------------------------------------------------------------Tamarind Village Chiang Mai 50/1 Ratchadamnoen Rd, Chiang Mai, 0 5341 8896. tamarindvillage.com
Phaithoon Iamkrasin prepares Shan-style sweets at his home kitchen in Mae Hong Son.
Harvesting rice outside of Nan
Akha vendors at Doi Mae Salong’s morning market, Chiang Rai.
Eating Akha dishes in the village of Mae Chan Tai, Chiang Rai.
Common ingredients used in Akha-style cooking; Mae Chan Tai, Chiang Rai.
Phrik kariang, “Karen chilies�, drying in the sun, Mae Hong Son.
Nam phrik khaep muu, a northern Thai-style dip of grilled chili, shallots and garlic, and deep-fried pork rinds, pounded in a mortar and pestle; Chiang Mai.
A stir-fry of pork and ferns as prepared at the Akha village of Mae Chan Tai, Chiang Rai.
Laap nuea dip, a dish of raw minced beef and spices, as served at Jin Sot, a restaurant in Phrae.
A dish of khao soi kai, chicken in a curry broth with wheat-and-egg noodles; Khao Soi Prince, Chiang Mai.
Produce for sale at a market in Nan.
Tools of the trade. A traditional stone pestle and mortar for grinding spices.
SEARED JAPANESE BLACK COD WITH SEA ASPARAGUS AT HARVEST, SEE P71
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AROY TITILLATING TEPPANYAKI
Throughout May, Tai Hei at the Banyan Tree is turning up the heat. Those with a hearty appetite for food and adventure are invited dig into a sumptuous feast while marvelling at chefs performing in front of their eyes, chopping, dicing, and slicing with impeccable knife skills and presentation. For this special month, the menu will feature an exclusive selection of Matsusaka Beef, Kurobuta pork, and the freshest seafood. Every party of three and above will also enjoy a complimentary sushi appetizer valued at B850.
SAY CHEESE!
From May 9-24, France’s “Cheese Ambassador to the World,” Gérard Poulard, once again makes an exclusive visit to Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant at the Pullman Bangkok Hotel G. Back by popular demand, the cheese master will present 150 varieties of French farmed cheese from the best of the country’s boutique producers. Paired into various mouth-watering combinations with breads, cold cuts, wines, fruits, and teas, the plethora of fromages include Fourme Laqueuille Memee Aoc, Rigotte de Condrieux, Bouyguette du Segala Romarin, and protein-rich goat cheese. For reservations, please call 0 2238 1991 or email h3616@accor.com.
ASIAN INSPIRATION
Until the end of May, Chef Kesinee of Basil at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit is taking Thai treats and giving it a continental twist. Her menu will include Chinese-style wok-fried Kurobuta pork with chilli, Indian-inspired prawn curry with coriander and caraway seeds, and other favourites influenced by nearby lands. Guests can pair their meal with a selection of fine wines with the help of the sommelier, who has chosen a degustation trio of Riesling at B900++ to complement the meals. If wine isn’t your thing, you can also enjoy a Mojito trio, prepared tableside, at B650++. To make a reservation, please call 0 2649 8366 or email dining.sgs@luxurycollection.com.
FEAST ON FLASHING FIREFLY SQUID
To celebrate the season of the miniscule firefly squid, the award-winning Kisso at the Westin Grande Sukhumvit is dishing out a range of Japanese delicacies that feature the bioluminescent cephalopod. Known for its tender flesh and deep, layered flavours, the squid’s versatility will be on display. Diners can expect to try it boiled, tempura-fried, and sautéed with Japanese cream sauce. Of course, it will be prepared as sushi, as well, and it even gets a turn with the sweet Japanese glass shrimp. For more information, please call 0 2207 8000 or email kisso.bangkok@westin.com.
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meal deals FIVE SHADES OF SPRING AND SUMMER CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRALWORLD 999/99 Rama I Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/cgcw Savour the summer menu at Red Sky for just B3255. Start with a warm asparagus salad served with quail eggs, smoked salmon and spring greens, followed by artichoke and black truffle soup with toasted mushroom brioche. The mouth-watering main courses include golden chanterelle risotto with patta negra, parmesan and truffles, and French Lozere lamb rack with pomme puree and morel jus. Round it all off apricot crumble topped with Tahitian vanilla ice cream.
‘FOOD FROM THE HEART SET’ AT THE KITCHEN TABLE W BANGKOK 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4111 | whotelbangkok.com Chef Thaneht Naovarat presents a new menu exemplifying his distinctive approach to local and international cuisines. Enjoy a variety of delectable creations from Thailand and overseas delicacies such as fettuccine with Maine lobster, 48-hour braised beef short ribs, sweet glazed pork rib scented with Szechuan pepper, and Chu Chee Pla Hi Ma or deep-fried snow fish in a mild curry sauce.
247 FOOD SERVING AT FURAMA FURAMA SILOM 533 Silom Rd | 0 2688 6888 | furama.com Experience the wide-ranging international buffet at Rama Restaurant from 11am-2.30pm daily. Priced at just B719 for two, highlights include salmon sashimi and made-to-order spaghetti options. In addition, a combo set comprising pizza or hamburger with soft drink or beer is served around the clock at the hotel’s Rama outlet and from 8am-11pm at De Sky restaurant.
BITTERSWEET TEMPTATIONS FONDUE SET NOVOTEL BANGKOK PLATINUM 220 Petchaburi Rd | 0 2160 7100 | novotelbangkokplatinum.com Indulge in a sublime selection of fresh fruit, homemade ice cream, brownies, cookies and marshmallows, all offered with rich Belgian semi-dark chocolate in a mini-fondue pot for B450++, the perfect treat for chocoholics. Coffee or tea is included. For a sophisticated finish, add a glass of sparkling wine for B190++. Available from 8am-1am at Platinum Lounge.
FROM SPAIN WITH LOVE CROWNE PLAZA BANGKOK LUMPINI PARK 952 Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplaza-bangkok.com From May 25-31, explore the contrasting culinary landscapes of the Iberian Peninsula. Panorama’s popular Samba San buffet has been given a Spanish facelift, with authentic tortillas, paella, and cured hams. The buffet is priced at B1200++ from Sunday to Thursday and B1800++ on Friday and Saturday. After the feast, enjoy a degustation platter of Spanish treats at Finishing Post for B950++ per set.
QUACK ATTACK! COMPTOIR EIFFEL 110/1 Soi Prasanmitr, first street on the right in Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2259 3033 | comptoireiffel.com There’s nothing like a value-for-money epicurean dining experience and that’s certainly what you get at Comptoir Eiffel with the restaurant’s Roll Rolled duck breast with foie gras promotion. The chef first poaches a full duck breast stuffed with fresh foie gras to create a super tasty tender meat treat. He then pan-sears the breast to create a deliciously crispy finish and serves with a rich balsamic and red wine reduction. The duck breast promotion runs indefinitely, priced at a very attractive B590++, inclusive of a complementary glass of wine. 6 8 | M AY 2 0 1 5
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BLUE SKY - Heavenly fare on high Eating and drinking while perched in an eyrie enjoying the vistas below is always a supercharged treat. Bangkok has many such venues, but Blue Sky on the 24th floor of Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao stands out from the crowd. There are several reasons for this lofty achievement. To start with, it is in a part of town where tall buildings are in short supply. But what really makes a visit to Blue Sky memorable is its elan and carefree spirit – plus great food and drinks. The adventure begins as you step off the elevator into a mysteriously dark lobby and walk along a totally black passageway illuminated by numerous tiny LCD lights. Suddenly, the lights are replaced with real stars and you realise you are in the great outdoors! Although Blue Sky has indoor dining options, most people prefer the terraces with a variety of seating arrangements that include sofas with low tables and more traditional dining tables and chairs. A dramatically lit bar acts as a focal point, while attractive and efficient servers are stylishly clad in all black outfits. The kitchen and menu at Blue Sky are under the tutelage of Executive Chef Eric Berrigaud, a French national with global experience, including stints as Executive Chef at the Sofitel Silom and at Bangkok’s BITEC convention centre. bangkok101.com
The menu is short but comprehensive. Cold starters include a delicious marinated Australian beef fillet carpaccio with sautéed potatoes (B280). Among the three hot starters, particularly enjoyable is Spanish chorizo julienne with poached egg, sautéed mushrooms and espuma (B390). The main courses range in price from B420 for penne with sun-dried tomato sauce, fresh vegetables and grated parmesan, to B2800 for seared Japanese Miyazaki A4 grade strip loin served sizzling on a board with Asian vegetables, potato gratin and a red wine sauce. The drinks list is extensive and includes the signature “Blue Sky”, a heady blend of vodka, blue caracao, lime, and lychee juice. Most of the cocktails are priced around B300 per drink. There is also a good selection of local and imported beers, plus numerous mocktails and fruit juices. The wine list has a comprehensive selection of international wines in all price ranges. Blue Sky is all about good food and drink in chic and dramatic surroundings. Definitely in the upper echelons of the city’s numerous lofty drinking and dining establishments, it is well worth a visit.
BLUE SKY
[MAP 3/G9]
Centara Grand, Central Plaza Ladprao | 0 2541 1234 ext 4603 centarahotelsresorts.com | Daily 6pm-2am
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BRASSERIE 9 - French savoir faire on the river Situated adjacent to Asiatique’s busy riverside frontage, Brasserie 9 serves up a wide selection of traditional French bistro-style favourites, plus a few items with a modern twist. The restaurant’s breezy al fresco dining area is great for seeing and being seen, while the comfortable interior, with its high ceilings and exposed wooden beams, has been designed to look like one of the wharf-side warehouses that once occupied the site. At one end, above the bustling open kitchen with its army of chef’s clad in sparkling white, there are two private rooms with seating for up to ten. There is also a walk-in wine cellar with a good selection of wines from around the world. It is easy for restaurants at places like Asiatique to become tourist traps, but Brasserie 9 is definitely not in that category. A recommendation is to begin with an amuse bouche consisting of smoked salmon and sour cream (B490). It provides a classic foil for the excellent by-the-glass house Sauvignon Blanc (B280/glass). A starter of seared foie gras (B620) served with caramelized apple slices and a delicious little brioche is an altogether richer opening, and the perfect prelude to a hearty main course of entrecote (pan-grilled) Wagyu steak (B1350) accompanied by a purée of potatoes and mixed buttered vegetables. The steak is excellent, tender pink and attractively finished with a searing on the grill. 7 0 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Dessert is a definite highlight at Brasserie 9. A true taste of the Old Country, crêpes suzette (B390) artfully prepared table-side by restaurant manager Watchara Phiwthong is not only delicious but also provides patrons with a bit of culinary theatre. Special mention should also be made of the service at the restaurant: it ranks among the best you will encounter anywhere in Bangkok, a remarkable achievement for an outlet that has been open for less than a couple of years and caters primarily to the transient tourist trade. Staff here are knowledgeable, efficient and unobtrusive In addition to a la carte dining, Brasserie 9 has a bar menu with an extensive list of moderately priced small dishes to be enjoyed by those interested primarily in drinking. There are also set menus ranging in size from 3-7 courses, with or without wine pairing, that range in price from B1350-B3900. If you are at Asiatique, or simply in search of a good meal, head for Brasserie 9. It is superbly managed and has a complete menu of those French dishes the world has grown to love.
BRASSERIE 9 Asiatique, The Riverfront Warehouse 9, Waterfront District 0 2108 4288 | brasserie9.com | Daily 3pm-12am
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HARVEST - A rustic cup of plenty Featuring décor inspired by a tumble-down Tuscan or Provençal farm building – think crumbling wall plaster exposing brick-work, wooden beams, and hanging herbs and vegetables – the spacious barnlike interior at Harvest seats 65 diners on two levels. The restaurant’s modest but considered menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes was assembled in consultation with Chef Tim Butler of Eat Me fame. Standout items include a starter of char-grilled octopus on a bed of warm fennel and chorizo sausage (B420), the salty-sweet flavours of which pair really well with a salad of heirloom tomatoes, beautifully creamy Burratta cheese, black olives, and a tart balsamic dressing (B350). Main courses at Harvest are hearty affairs. Grilled Iberico pork Secreto (B980), thin slices of the neck cut from an Iberian black pig cooked to a wonderfully tender rose-pink, is highly recommended. A more eclectic meaty dish is roast leg of rabbit (B820) marinated in yoghurt and served with a creamy brandy mustard sauce and sautéed spinach. Also recommended is ricotta gnocchi with a rich pheasant ragu (B360) from the selection of pasta offerings. Seafood figures large on the menu here. Among succulent Hokkaido scallops with clam chowder and paprika aioli (B420), seared King salmon with Jerusalem artichoke puree (B750), and buttered poached lobster with black truffle, fresh ricotta and lemon sauce (B950), bangkok101.com
the seared Japanese black cod with sea asparagus, dried tomatoes and anchovy sauce (B620) is truly outstanding. The smoky-flavoured fish is moist yet firm and flaky, its texture offset by the crisp crunch of the sea asparagus and given a tangy-salty finish by the anchovy sauce. If you want something equally tasty but a little lighter, try one of the selections on the separate menu of mussel dishes. The owners of Harvest have been importing fresh mussels from Holland for a number of years and they really know their bivalve molluscs. These plump delights (B1500/large serving, B780/small) come with a choice of lemon and shallot; classic tomato; white wine and caper; fennel and chorizo; creamy garlic; and beer and bacon sauces among others. Also be sure to check the Chef’s Specials menu, which changes periodically or as seasonal ingredients allow. A dessert menu featuring classic tiramisu, chocolate semifreddo with grilled marshmallow (both B180), masala chai spice panna cotta (B220), and a selection of ice cream (B75 per scoop) rounds off a dining experience redolent of the best Mediterranean pastoral fare.
HARVEST [MAP 3/L8] Sukhumvit 31 | 0 2262 0762 | Facebook.com/HARVESTrestaurantBKK Daily 5.30pm-Midnight
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22 KITCHEN & BAR - The Prize of the Pacific Rim “You can bring the bar to the dining table, but you can’t bring the dining table to the bar,” says Nikolas Ramirez, the Hawaiian native and chef de cuisine of 22 Kitchen & Bar. The adage shines light on his culinary philosophy. With full creative discretion, the affable young Edison of a chef has crafted dish after dish influenced by Pacific Rim cultures, serving them in portions made to share, a style that gives guests the freedom to have fun with his food. That’s not to say that he or the Dusit Thani’s sky-high restaurant lack finesse. On the contrary, this is informal fine dining at its best. The menu is peppered with plates that reflect Ramirez’s multinational roots and experimentalism. Each dish encompasses the cuisines of faraway places, from Peru to Japan to the islands in the big blue. Bao bun tacos, brimming with pork belly confit, cilantro, and sliced avocado (B280), blend foreign comfort foods. With a squeeze of lime, they taste like the kind of Yelp-worthy carnitas one might find in a SoCal taquería, but with a twist in the form of a soft Taiwanese wrap. The tacos make a natural table partner to ramen burgers (B300), which are, essentially, sliders dolled up with Wagyu and tonkatsu sauce aioli. Simple in concept, but difficult to pull off properly. Ramirez first sends the meat through a grinder, wrapping up the tube of Wagyu that comes out the other end like a yule log. Then, he 7 2 | M AY 2 0 1 5
slices the tube to form the burgers, working the meat as little as possible. He makes the ramen from scratch, too. With the help of a ramekin, he shapes the noodle buns before flash-frying them; this produces a hashbrown-like flavour and crunch that round out the sliders. Heartier fare follows similar patterns. Sea bass ceviche (B540) wakes up the palate with shot after shot of citrus in the leche de tigre — an honest rendition of the South American specialty. Scallops grilled on a cast iron pan pair with charcoal-roasted eggplant and quinoa (B840), the arrangement united by a peculiar scallop caramel whose flavour is reminiscent of brown butter and texture is similar to mashed potatoes. Whether slow-roasted chicken or lamb shank, the mains are fresh in taste, balanced in texture, and presented with the fastidious touch of a modern artist. Fried apple pie with buttermilk ice cream and miso butterscotch. Watermelon carpaccio that tastes like beef. Handmade sweet rolls dangerously close to the King’s Hawaiian recipe. Even desserts and starters suggest a future of brilliant creations.
22 KITCHEN & BAR [MAP 5/L6] Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 ext 2345 dusit.com | Mon-Sun, 6pm-10pm
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review
TAPER - Beat the Brunch Blues Chef Toon isn’t afraid to bring the heat. That much becomes apparent with a bite of his salted egg carbonara (B290), a signature dish at Thong Lo’s latest brunch and lunch spot, Taper. Usually made by tossing cooked pasta with a mixture of hot water, beaten egg yolk, salt, black pepper, and heaps of grated Parmesan cheese, this rethought version looks nothing like its Italian brother. Though packed with Parmesan, it burns a blood orange hue, thanks to the copious roasted Thai chillies blended into the sauce; gains depth from butter; and is topped with grilled squid and cilantro. It bursts with as much élan as the young Thai chef and the narrow space where he plies his trade. Opened in March, Taper has already earned itself an ardent following. “A few groups have come back two or three times this month,” says Toon, adding with a characteristic laugh, “the menu only has, like, 15 items, so I guess they got to try everything on it.” A joint venture between New York-trained Toon and friends Ton and Tao of Le Du, this low-lit, two-story bistro has reworked a building that housed a Ramen shop. The mezzanine was renovated to feature an open kitchen, the kind of layout that has dominated the fine dining scene in Manhattan and Brooklyn in recent years. “We do everything in the open,” says Toon, from making fresh pasta each morning to rendering duck fat to 74 | M AY 2 0 1 5
make “duck mayonnaise” for another customer favourite: fried duck and waffles (B390). A riff on the American soul food, the dish is one part Thai, another part tech. Galangal, lemongrass, and herbs in the sous-vide bag add Thai flavours to the fried fowl. Once cooked, it sits on crisp Belgian waffles that are paired with honey butter, marrying spicy, sweet, and savoury elements. With a dozen upscale options on the menu, it seems ironic that the humble congee has become a star attraction. But this is no ordinary rice porridge. Made with organic brown rice and a soy reduction, Taper’s congee (B330) gets a lift from seared pork belly, fried ginger, and a poached egg. It’s similar to Le Du’s famous dish, but tweaked with Toon’s twists. That’s a common theme — old favourites transformed, like coconut pancakes (B235), a brunch treat beefed up with a trinity of coconut-laced ingredients: caramel, cream, and ice cream. As the menu rotates according to the season and major developments begin to take shape, Taper looks ready to take off. Jump in and enjoy the ride.
TAPER
[MAP 3/R6]
44/11 Soi Akapat (off Thong Lor 13) | 09 9929 5464 Taperbkk.com | Tues-Sun 9am-4pm
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san pellegrino recommends FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S. PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. Sanpellegrino Asia| sanpellegrino@sanpellegrino.com.sg Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
SIAM WISDOM At Siam Wisdom, traditional Thai ingredients become like paint on an artist’s palette. The menus — designed by Chef Chumpol Jangprai, a Thai Iron Chef winner — tackle new concepts with a nod to heritage. Endless possibilities of flavours and presentation burst to life on blank ceramic canvasses. To celebrate the restaurant’s second anniversary, Jangprai and his team have unveiled the “Siam Wisdom Chef Set,” a culinary journey prepared with local ingredients; however, at this classic wooden house, diners would do well to dive into the fan-favourite a la carte menu. Warm up your stomach with light starters, such as crispy pancakes with crab meat and kaffir lime leaves (B280), deep-fried prawn cakes topped with crispy rice (B360), or a simple yet savoury satae gai (B280). Main courses here have never let anyone down, and the word “highlight” can be marked above almost every item on the menu. Each curry, among the rainbow of choices, delivers a welcome kick of spice and style, including kaeng kua poo, yellow curry with crab meat and wild betel leaves; and kaeng kee lek, a southern-style curry with tender beef (B580) or pork (B480). Grilled river prawns, in a zesty kaffir lime dressing (B550), partner to perfection with fried and fluffed snakehead fish. Tickle your taste buds with a range of sweet Thai goodies that spans as wide as the cocktail list. Thanks to tempting regular menus, as well as specialties crafted from premium inseason ingredients, once you step into Siam Wisdom, you might just add it to your dining out routine.
SIAM WISDOM [MAP 3/L8] 66 Sukhumvit 31 | 0 2260 7811 | siamwisdomcuisine.com
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in the kitchen
MATTHEW WOOLFORD talks to Michael Moore
Although a native of Sydney with over two decades of experience, Chef Matthew Woolford, the culinary director at The St. Regis Bangkok, has spent most of his time in kitchens outside of his native Australia, including stints in South Korea, Hong Kong, Singapore, and Koh Samui in Thailand. “Obviously I enjoy travelling,” he says as we stroll into Viu’s snazzy open kitchen. “I’m always learning something different, not only about food, but also about life in general. It has a big impact on my cooking.” Looking around the kitchen, he says, “We are revamping Viu’s menu a bit. At lunch, we are creating an interactive concept with live cooking stations, where diners can chat with chefs about the food they are preparing. At some of the stations they can even discuss how they would like the dish tweaked according to their taste preferences. In the evening, we are creating a new a la carte menu with an emphasis on seafood. I’ll prepare one of the new seafood dishes for you today – Patagonia toothfish with puttanesca sauce, a simple and honest dish that is easy to create.” He finely chops shallots and some garlic and lightly sautés them in a little extra-virgin olive oil until soft and fragrant. This is actually somewhat incongruous because “puttanesca” translates as prostitute in Italian, but more about that later. Next, he adds a spoonful of dried chilli flakes and stirs for a few seconds before adding some rinsed, roughly chopped canned anchovies. Suddenly, the unmistakable aroma of southern Italy permeates the air. 7 8 | M AY 2 0 1 5
A minute or so later he adds sliced black and green olives, a spoonful of capers, and enough tomato sauce to create a fairly thick sauce. As it cooks, he adds some stock to thin it a little. While preparing the sauce, the chef roasts a thick piece of Patagonian toothfish, a member of the cod family, in a 180º Celsius oven. One side of the fish has been coated with brioche crumbs and some finely chopped parsley and fresh thyme. He cooks the fish until it is firm but tender and the coating turns light brown. To serve it, he places some thickly sliced boiled potatoes on a plate, douses them with a splash of olive oil, and carefully positions the fish on top. This is covered with a hefty coat of the puttanesca sauce. The result is an attractive dish with a salty and spicy tang redolent of the flavours of southern Italy. Now, back to the name of the sauce. You may wonder why, in effect, it is called “prostitute’s sauce.” This is because traditionally “ladies of the night” don’t tend to have a lot of time to go out shopping. Hence, this is a sauce that can be prepared ad hoc with items commonly found in any Italian kitchen. Simple and easy to make, it is especially good over a bowl of pasta and a great addition to anyone’s cooking repertoire.
VIU
[MAP 4/G6]
The St.Regis Bangkok, 59 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2207 7777 stregisbangkok.com | Daily 6am-11am, 12pm-4pm, 6pm-11pm
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street eats
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eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
THONBURI TAKES THE CAKE
T
he old town across the river from the Grand Palace is ripe for exploration. Thonburi, as it is known, has been shaped by centuries of foreign influence. In fact, several communities here today were settled as far back as the 1500s. They have maintained, to some degree, a traditional vibe. One of the most cohesive communities is Kudee Jeen, an area marked by a splendid neo-classical cathedral on the river’s bank. I recently went wandering here in search of a famous pastry, but I began with a taste of history. Strolling through Santa Cruz Church, I felt its warmth rush through me as I admired the stained glass windows. I continued my adventure through narrow alleys to the north of the church. King Taksin himself had bestowed the Portuguese with this tract, and later the Chinese joined them: two powerful influences enriching old Siam. The quaint lanes were lined with colourful wooden houses that have aged as deliciously as Bangkok! One of the great features of Kudee Jeen is the namesake khanom farang kudee jeen, which is believed by many to be the very first cake in the Kingdom. It was introduced by Portuguese families. Over time, they passed down the recipe to their neighbours. Three family-run operations still make this dessert the old-fashioned way,
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using the same ingredients as their forefathers: egg, flour, and sugar. I stopped by Thanusingha Bakery, which sits inside a traditional Thai house. The family has converted part of the first floor into a café, where you can sip coffee or tea with your freshly baked khanom. Their version of the cake was crispy outside, soft inside, and topped with dried candied fruit that provided a dash of sweetness and a note of Chinese influence: sweet, but not really “farang,” as the name implies. For many Thais, this cake recalls pleasant childhood memories — Thanusingha’s certainly did for me! How To Get There: Take a ferry from Pak Khlong Talad Pier to Wat Kalayanamit. When you get off, walk toward Santa Cruz Church. Thanusingha Bakery is on Soi Kudee Jeen 7. You can explore the other families’ bakeries by following the signs.
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listings
Mei Jiang
CHINESE MEI JIANG The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2861 2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Widely regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants, Mei Jiang has built a loyal following for its dim sum and fresh classics. It also gives customers the chance to go behind the scenes with a “Chef’s Table” concept, which makes for an exciting dining experience. Fresh ingredients steeped in Canton tradition beget serious highlights — and they keep coming, from appetiser to entrée and dessert. Many recipes come from Chef Jackie Ho’s family, and the personal touches show. Elegant and exotic, Mei Jiang deserves all the applause it’s already been given,
SHANG PALACE [MAP 8/F17] 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Rd | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is elegant and, even more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. Throughout, the food is low on oil, delivering delicate flavours without denying the satisfaction of eating. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, but the signature dishes, like the Beijing roasted duck, are serious standouts among all Chinese restaurants in the capital. With a lovely riverside setting, Shang Palace makes for a romantic, if not exotic, place to spend an evening.
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The Mayflower
THE MAYFLOWER [MAP 8/K16] Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm At The Mayflower, the flagship Cantonese restaurant at the Dusit Thani, authenticity is the name of the game, and the results are delicious. You’ve probably seen the liquid-centred buns with salted egg in various places around Bangkok — even, gasp, in 7-Eleven. Well, there’s none of that drivel going on at The Mayflower. Their gourmet version of the quintessential bun makes for a perfect starter. But the really impressive courses come later. The menu here is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan, so don’t fill up early.
FRENCH CHEZ PAPE [MAP 3/F9] 1/28-29 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed. That’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine; rather, there are enough surprises, in the combinations and presentation, to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. This Parisian-style bistro remains committed to doing the inimitably French things well while augmenting dishes with touches inspired from differing sources.
J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN [MAP 5/M9]
Chez Pape
J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain U Sathorn Bangkok, 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli | 0 2119 4888 | uhotelsresorts.com With a grand bar, a marble tile floor, and linen-dress tables, J’aime exudes a relaxed, classical formality. On the table, a lazy Susan shows an intention for Asian-style servings to be shared, chosen from a short a la carte menu and two tasting menus with wine pairings. The classic French cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might find yourself trying to re-create certain dishes the next day, like the tomato fondue.
L’APPART [MAP 3/G9] 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 13-15 | 08 5924 1565 | sofitel. com | 7pm-midnight L’Appart has one of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok, embracing the aesthetic of a Parisian apartment. The clichés of restaurant decor have been thrown out the window. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s immaculately furnished penthouse with amazing views of the skyline. Chef Jeremy Tourret may be every inch the French master cook, but that hasn’t prevented him taking some intriguing chances, adapting a traditional cuisine to create an adventurous, surprising menu. The absolute staples are still represented, but the chef takes it to the next step in the main courses, fusing styles and blazing new trails.
INDIAN CHARCOAL [MAP 3/E7]
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listings
Rang Mahal 5th flr Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 9307 1111 | charcoalbkk.com | Open daily 6pm-11pm Created by the team behind Above Eleven, the popular roof-top bar and restaurant on Soi 11, Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology is something of a revelation. Here you’ll find no sloppy curry swimming in artery-clogging ghee: only sophisticated reinterpretations of tandoorgrilled delicacies enjoyed by the Moghuls of old, and a unique selection of classic cocktails created with an intriguing Indian twist.
RANG MAHAL [MAP 3/K11] 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The name means “palace of colours,” and there sure is a courtly air about it, down to the traditional Indian band whose lilting music fills the air. While Indian cuisine routinely delivers powerful flavours, the refined, almost delicate, food served at Rang Mahal is a rarity. Straightforward appetisers whet the appetite, and the proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs come out. The curries deliver a heightened version of familiar dishes; they’re irresistible, spectacular renditions of one of India’s most familiar staples.
INTERNATIONAL BLUE SKY [MAP 3/G9] 24F Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd | 0 2541 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | 6pm-2am Rooftop bars and restaurants in central Bangkok have surged in popularity, popping up everywhere from Sukhumvit to Sathorn. Now Ladprao is in on the mix, too. The ultra-hip Blue Sky offers a whole new perspective of the city and delivers a standout menu with high-quality Asian and Western dishes. The restaurant succeeds at giving patrons a feeling of untroubled indulgence, and the drinks hit all the right notes. Most importantly, bangkok101.com
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Blue Sky the atmosphere at Blue Sky allows for relaxed, informal dining, and the views over Chatuchak Park are breath-taking.
CREPES & CO [MAP 8/L14] 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a true Bangkok success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options — try the eggplant caviar — but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal following after dinner… or any time, for that matter. The sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat.
ELEMENTS [MAP 4/L5] Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | 6pm-10.30pm Elements is an imposing space, where heavy ship’s lanterns loom overhead from a high ceiling lined with exposed piping. The décor is predominantly black and brown, low lit, with full wall sculptures of black charcoal at each end of the room that — as well as providing an arty backdrop — apparently filter out cooking smells from the open kitchen. To wind down, grab a sake cocktail as you choose from a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” which is translated as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into an a la carte menu, with pricey main meat courses, and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option.
PANORAMA [MAP 5/K4] Crowne Plaza Lumpini Park | Rama IV Rd 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk.com | Noon2pm, 6pm-10.30pm Although Panorama serves breakfast and lunch, it is the dinner buffet that has M AY 2 0 1 5 | 8 1
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Park Society tongues wagging. Every few months, this smorgasbord buffet changes specialty, from Mexican to Japanese, from Brazilian “Samba San” to a fresh seafood bounty. For those who prefer a more traditional buffet, that’s represented here, too, including Asian favourites and sweet desserts prepared by a pro pastry chef. Set next to an aptly named bar, Finishing Post, Panorama makes for a perfect place to fill up before you empty a few glasses.
PARK SOCIETY [MAP 8/L17] Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | 5pm-1am (bar), 6pm-10pm (restaurant) Geometrically peculiar, filled out with rhomboid and hexagon shapes, this anachronistic restaurant is — you guessed it — modern, from top to bottom. The menu changes daily, according to available produce, and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items. Think oysters, Hokkaido scallops, and Aran Valley caviar. Mains are well presented, the off-kilter square plates adorned with smears and blobs of colourful purée providing an arty backdrop for dishes that include rare finds in Bangkok, like pigeon with gnocchi. The well-chosen wine list will top off any meal.
La Bottega Di Luca
TABLES GRILL [MAP 4/G5] Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants, and the menu, billed as pan-European, takes full advantage of the theatre. There are wooden floors, potted plants, oxidised mirrors and, high on the walls, larger-than-life cartoonish figures of waiters that lighten the formality. Despite being a mezzanine restaurant, overlooking the colossal pillars in the Erawan’s stately lobby, the only overspill of noise is the pleasant bubbling of water from fountains and a jazz trio playing on the landing.
ITALIAN LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA [MAP 3/P8] The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm Nestled in a small mall, La Bottega di Luca is a welcoming space with indoor-outdoor seating that cultivates a relaxed vibe, making it a neighbourhood favourite with real panache. Luca, who runs the show, updates the parts of the menu regularly and orders produce in from Italy fortnightly.
Scalini There’s a sizeable menu, and it can be tricky to know which direction to take. Fear not: it’s all rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion. If you’re still confused, it’s hard to go wrong with the home-made pasta that’s mixed, rolled, and boiled fresh each day.
ROSSINI’S [MAP 3/H10] Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2653 0333 | sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 6pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The decor is steadfastly traditional, designed like the dining room of a medieval Tuscan castle, complete with heavy fireplace, a tiled floor that looks almost cobbled, and wooden beams and domes in the ceiling. The menu, however, has lots of modern touches that reimagine traditional Italian styles. Rossini’s also has more reasonable wine prices than many restaurants in this bracket, courtesy of its Primo Vino policy, which promises “top shelf wines at cellar prices.”
SCALINI [MAP 3/N11] Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com/en | Noon2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Scalini is ostensibly a modern Italian place, but it riffs on a New York connection
SEAFOOD MARKET & RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit soi 24 (Kasame), Sukhumvit Rd., Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 THAILAND Tel. 02 661 1252-9, 02 259 6580-1 Fax. 02 261 2073 Email. globalmarketing@seafood.co.th
www.seafood.co.th
RESERVATION Tel. 02 261 2071-5 8 2 | M AY 2 0 1 5
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Taihei while borrowing bits and pieces from the international table. So, in short, it’s Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. It’s apparent from the antipasti, which retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists. Other dishes stay closer to home, such as a Wagyu carpaccio with porcini salsa, rocket, and parmesan, served with white truffle vinaigrette. The rich, satisfying taste of Italian food has an extra layer of complexity, and it’s on show time and again.
JAPANESE TAIHEI [MAP 5/L8] 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm There is a real commitment to quality leading the charge at Taihei. The presentation is immaculate, offering a swathe of bright colours — bright pinks and flashes of silver-grey. It’s beautiful food. And it tastes great, to boot. Tonkatsu and teriyaki beef, fresh sashimi and grilled snow fish with miso: this is honest-to-goodness Japanese served in style from atmospheric heights.
TEN-SUI [MAP 3/K11] 33 Soi Sukhumvit 16 | 08 8540 1001 | tensui.co 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok, but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience — in both food and ambiance — than at Ten-Sui. It’s worth noting that this place is high-end, with prices to match. The selection of omakase nigiri, for example, goes for B3000. Of course, it’s delicious and executed with exquisite technique that reinforces the pedigree. This probably isn’t a place where you show up at the last minute for a low-key meal. It’s a bit special. That’s not to say that you have to break the bank here to have an enjoyable meal — you can go for a bento box for about B500. bangkok101.com
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Señor Pico
ZUMA [MAP 4/G6] Ground Fl, 159 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2252 4707 zumarestaurant.com | 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm The style and presentation of the dishes here is unmistakably contemporary. That flair is matched by a particularly snazzy range of cocktails, all powerful and fragrant. Of course, it’s the food that really matters, and this izakaya-style joint delivers. Fish and beef get equal treatment, each prepared with duteous touch. Dishes come out in no precise order and can be shared or eaten individually, and, because of Zuma’s three open kitchens, customers can watch the chefs at work.
MEXICAN MÉJICO [MAP 4/F3-4] 2nd flr, Groove@CentralWorld | 0 2252 6660 mejico.asia Set in the fashionable Groove, this restaurant is cool and sleek, with custommade furnishings, granite platters, a long wooden table stretching across the dining room, tequila barrels stashed in the ceiling, and a balcony for al fresco dining. The menu tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried. Having opened with aplomb, Méjico proves that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
SEÑOR PICO [MAP 3/K11] 1F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 0 2261 7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk 5pm-1am Times have changed at Señor Pico, which opened 17 years ago in the Rembrandt Hotel. Nowhere else in town are there such dishes as aguachile de camarón, a soupy concoction of prawns marinated in lime juice, olive oil and chile de arbol, common in Mexico but practically unknown beyond the country’s borders. Several dishes feature duck, which, likewise, is popular in Mexico but rarely seen in American-style Mexican M AY 2 0 1 5 | 8 3
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Snapper eateries. More familiar Mexican fare like tacos, burritos, quesadillas, fajitas and enchiladas are found on the menu, as well, catering to the gringo palate.
SEAFOOD SNAPPER [MAP 3/F8] 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2651 1098 snapper-bangkok.com | Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight Within Bangkok’s melting pot of international cuisines, poor old New Zealand can get overlooked. But anyone who ventures down the sub-soi that snakes left on Sukhumvit Soi 11 has a joyous discovery waiting for them. The culinary approach is to focus on the natural goodness of the product. So don’t expect a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients, but rather simple preparation rounded out with classy presentation. Snapper does have one claim to fame: it has done its darnedest to serve the best fish and chips in Bangkok, and it’s pretty hard to deny it the bragging rights.
THE OYSTER BAR [MAP 2/E11] 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 24 0 2212 4809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm
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Señor Pico You know the owner of a restaurant takes his seafood seriously when there are several pages of the menu devoted entirely to oysters. With Billy Marinelli, customers are in good hands. As a seafood wholesaler, Billy has a particularly keen eye for good produce and seems less concerned with turning a profit than with running a place where he likes to eat. If you’ve brought your most serious appetite, move on to the seafood platter, offering a gorgeous pile of oysters, scallop sashimi, bay shrimp, seaweed salad, Dungeness crab, mussels, clams and caviar.
SPANISH EL CHIRINGUITO [MAP 6/L2] 221 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd | 08 6340 4791 | Facebook.com/elchiringuitobangkok On the face of it, El Chiringuito is a tapas bar. The menu lists nine items in chalk on a side wall. Sangria and Spanish gin distinguish the selection of drinks, also written on the wall. Small dishes and high-quality alcohol, a space filled with antiques: it’s an implant from Madrid dropped neatly into the Bangkok beehive. But limiting its importance to food and booze would be criminal. It’s the local, a
Barcelona Gaudí gathering spot for artists and art-lovers who have flocked to the suddenly buzzing Soi Nana in Chinatown.
BARCELONA GAUDÍ [MAP 3/J9] Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit Soi 23 0 2661 7410 | barcelona-thai.com Located in what was once a four-story condo on Sukhumvit 23, Barcelona Gaudí stands conspicuous among the overgrown trees and power lines. The eye-catching vestibule was modelled after the work of the eponymous Gaudí, whose influence doesn’t stop at the door. The chef and founding partners are proud of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows in the incredible tapas on the menu, from prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the traditional Sunday paella.
STEAK & BURGER NEW YORK STYLE STEAK & BURGER [MAP 3/L11] 28 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2262 0920 nysteakandburger.com Freshness is at the core of the food philosophy. The beef is all USDA Certified Angus, and burgers are ground fresh each morning. Vegetables are sourced from
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New York Style Steak & Burger the Royal Project in Chiang Mai. Crunchy buns are ordered from the custom-made oven at Maison Jean Philippe. Relishes, sauces, and salad dressings are produced a la minute. New York Style Steak & Burger serves deliciousness by the gram and — if they stick to their principles — looks set to be one of the city’s finest eateries for some time to come.
PRIME [MAP 5/B2] Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 6pm-11pm Once upon a time, going to a steakhouse for dinner — even an upscale steakhouse — meant being confronted with an endless list of cuts of beef. Although Prime still boasts an enviable selection of red meat, they’ve diversified. Seafood makes Prime’s ambitions clear. From caramelized Hokkaido scallops to wood-burned Japanese octopus, the technique has been refined, and the chefs appear willing to embrace challenging combinations. It’s a welcome sophistication, befitting the sweeping views over the Chao Phraya. As for the steaks, all are served suitably flame-grilled. There’s the option to add bone marrow, organic eggs, or blue cheese, as well as exotic sauces, like bordelaise or pommery mustard.
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Basil
THAI BASIL [MAP 3/H10] 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2649 8366 | basilbangkok.com | Sun-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6pm-10.30pm Basil, in the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, presents a glittering array of Thai favourites — it’s not over-the-top in innovation, but there isn’t a false note, either. Appetisers like soft-shelled crab, or poo nim clook nga thord, set the bar high. The chef’s recommendations run the gamut from grilled scallops to the classic tom yam. Soup might seem like the most basic aspect of any restaurant’s menu, but, as with all the other familiar dishes at Basil, it is right on the money. This is Thai comfort food taken to a whole new plane.
BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL [MAP 5/D7] 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm The Blue Elephant brand has been wildly successful since it was first established in 1980, introducing Thai food to the world through restaurants dotted in places as far flung as London, Paris, and Dubai. Of course, there’s one in Bangkok, just
FOOD & DRIN K
Blue Elephant under Surasak BTS in a gorgeous oldfashioned Thai building. When you take in the traditional interior, it’s no surprise that Blue Elephant’s food confidently embraces Thai cooking of the past. Chef Nooror and her staff, however, are not content to let the grass grow under them. That’s why, perhaps sensing that Thai food has increasingly been adapted into a more modern, international cuisine, the menu takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, as well.
SALA RATTANAKOSIN BANGKOK [MAP 7/C13]
39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 0 2231 2588 | salarattanakosin.com | 7am-10pm With vistas not only across the river to Wat Arun, but also towards the spires of Wat Pho and the Grand Palace, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. Later, head down to the two-storey restaurant, and, if possible, grab a window table upstairs or beside the river on the wooden deck outside. Executive chef Tony Wrigley describes his menu as comfort food, and that pretty much fits the bill. The menu has a few Euro items, too. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass.
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imbibe
FOOD & DRIN K
Wine & Dine A Lunch and Wine Pairing with Chef Jeff Mosher of the Robert Mondavi Winery
BY LAURENCE CIVIL
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obert Mondavi was a luminary, singular among the brightest stars in the world of wine. For more than four decades, this son of Italian immigrants led the California industry with creations like his signature Fumé Blanc, a name that was synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc for decades. Wines as robust as his are best appreciated with food, of course, and, recently, Bangkok aficionados were in for a treat, as the Mondavi Winery’s very own chef, Jeff Mosher, led a decadent three-course pairing at Tables Grill. I joined the chef for lunch. Before the food and wine started flowing, I had a chance to chat with him. He moved to Napa Valley in 2004. There, he became a sous chef at Julia’s Kitchen, the flagship restaurant of COPIA: The American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts. Five years later, he made the move to the Robert Mondavi Winery, which had put emphasis on food and wine pairings with its “Great Chefs” series. “I like moderately spiced food, where the chilli adds flavour without compromising the primary ingredient,” said Mosher. “With today’s pairing, I want to demonstrate that it’s how a dish is seasoned and spiced, and not the primary protein, that is the deciding factor in its success when enjoyed with wine.” His first dish was a curried chicken with an apple and almond spring roll, a lighter take on the classic American chicken salad sandwich. “I season the chicken thighs overnight and then cook them sous-vide at 68 degrees [Celsius] for one hour,” he said, as a heady aroma reached my nose. “I then sear the chicken in a pan with Vadouvan, a ready-to-use blend of spices, a French take on masala that is a popular seasoning for chicken salad in the US.” He paired it with a 2011 Fumé Blanc, Robert Mondavi’s shining star of the Napa Valley. A blend of 96 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 4 percent Sémillon, this wine struck a beautiful, Sancerre-like balance of citrus and herbal notes. It had a cleansing minerality and racy acidity. There was a captivating sense of lift on the palate with a lithe, creamy underpinning that carried through the long, elegant finish. Next Mosher served slow-cooked pork belly with eggplant, rice noodles, and a ginger scallion sauce, a version of a Thai rice noodle dish, but spiced his way. The pork belly was first cooked sous-vide for 12 hours at 77 degrees Celsius, a preparation that tendered the meat bangkok101.com
without losing its texture. Its appearance elevated the dish, adding flavour and a welcome crispness. The Japanese eggplants he used weren’t bitter at all, and unlike most kinds didn’t need salt to bring out the flavour. In his ginger scallion sauce, he dolloped equal amounts of soy sauce and sherry and double the measure of grape seed oil. “I add very little sugar to my cooking,” said the chef, a subtle technique I had begun to notice. Matching this course was a 2013 Private Selection Pinot Noir, a blend of 88 percent Pinot Noir, 8 percent Syrah, 3 percent Petite Sirah, and 1 percent Teroldego. Aged with grapes grown in the marine-influenced central coast, this cool vintage wine burst with classic varietal aromas and flavours. On the nose, lovely violet, strawberry, and sour cherry aromas mingled with complementary notes of toasted cinnamon. Soft and sound with good length and richness on the palate, this wine made a perfect pairing. Already satisfied, my eyes lit up when the main course hit the table, a seared, spice-crusted tuna with black rice, shiitake mushrooms, and red wine vinaigrette. Mosher married the dish with a 2006 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Shichimi Togarashi, a Japanese chilli powder ideal for grilled meats, was crucial to its construction. Traditionally made with seven ingredients (red chilli powder, sansho-, roasted orange peel, sesame seeds, white hemp seeds, and ground ginger), the spice in this case was beefed up with star anise and used to crust sushi-grade yellowfin tuna. He had brought from the winery vinaigrette crafted not with vinegar, but rather leftover wines from opened bottles. Ordinarily rare tuna would be an unlikely pairing with Cabernet Sauvignon, but Mosher’s brilliant seasoning made it work wonderfully. This special meal shared a series of wines that were indicative of Napa Valley’s benchmark terroir. Handselected fruit from the finest blocks of the vineyards produced drinks that were at once elegant and complex in density and structure. They demonstrated the art of winemaking on which the vintner built his reputation. Above all, they were paired beautifully by the consummate Chef Mosher, who solidified his guiding principle in each dish. Reflecting on the meal at the table, my taste buds tingling, I understood his position well and clear: when pairing wine with food, focus on seasoning and let the protein be the vessel. M AY 2 0 1 5 | 8 7
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NIGHTLIFE MUSIC FOR METALHEADS
A lineup of local shredders will hit the stage at The Rock Pub on May 15. “A Little Bit Rock N’ Roll, and Loads of Metal Vol. 2” unites ANNALYNN, The Rocket Whale, Cana, The Ladz, Falling In Between, Cursed Habit, and Kamp Krusty and the Sausage Fest. Eardrums will pop to track after track of hard-hitting rock, metal, and hardcore. Entry costs B200 (includes one beer) and the show starts at 8pm.
A VICTORY FOR VINO
Following the success of its first two Italian Wine Sommelier Competitions, Texica is inviting talented wine professionals to sign up for the third edition, held at Grand Hyatt Erawan on June 23 and 24. To increase wine knowledge among Thai professionals, the competition gauges participants’ grasp of the boot-shaped nation’s microclimates and varietals. The first day will be devoted to a workshop, and the second will feature written and practical exams, followed by an awards ceremony and (naturally) a wine tasting after-party. The awards range from cash and premium glasses for finalists to a paid-for trip and acceptance to the FERRARI Camp in Trento for the grand prize winner. For more information, please contact wine@texica.co.th or 0 2713 6034-5.
BOLLYWOOD BALLY-HOO
On May 8, Delhi-born and British-raised Bally Sagoo brings Bollywood beats to KU DÉ TA. The platinum-selling artist fuses Western tracks with Indian flair, churning out chart-topping hits like “Hey Jamalo.” Before he hits the decks, DJ Xunny Dey will warm up the crowd with his mix of Top 40, Bhangra, and Hip Hop. Pre-sale tickets come in at B1000. Otherwise, it’s B1300 at the door (both prices include one drink). The party starts at 9pm and runs until it ends.
GET YOUR TOWELS READY
Nothing beats an original. Back in operation after a temporary hiatus, the Bangkok Boat Party ships off from Sathorn Pier on May 16. Get on board the dancehall yacht as it cruises down the river, transforming into a moveable club beneath the skyscrapers and city lights. With two floors of music, a veritable wall of a sound system, and the city’s most energetic DJs, you won’t leave disappointed. Tickets range from B800 for the first pre-sale to B1200 at the boat; buy five tickets and get one free.
ALL NIGHT, EVERY NIGHT
Seven days, seven ways party at WOOBAR. Throughout May and June, the W Hotel’s sizzling nightspot is offering a different deal each day of the week as part of a #PICKYOURNIGHT promotion. On Monday, enjoy 20 percent off all wine and champagne bottles; on Tuesday, get 20 percent off vodka bottles; Wednesday’s deal offers 20 percent off iconic gin and tonics; Thursday delivers 20 percent off margaritas; on Friday, take 20 percent off any bottle of whiskey; and on the weekend, spend B6000 and get a free bottle of sparkling wine. For more information, please call 0 2344 4000 or email bf.wbangkok@whotels.com.
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KU DÉ TA - Decks, Divas, and Dancing -
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ebellion. A red hot words in a scorching city. Bangkok is no stranger to upheaval in the natural order – even in the social side of life. How apt then that the perversely named KU DÉ TA finds itself a figurehead of a nightlife revolution; an icon in a time of change. Breaking away from the monotonous rule of Sukhumvit Soi 11, two years ago the protagonists behind the world-famous Bed Supperclub set their sights on a new destination in which to entertain the fleet-footed clubgoers of Bangkok. Enter KU DÉ TA, where patrons are whisked to the top floor of the hip-to-be Sathorn Square and magnificent views from the ample outdoor terrace complemented by elegant, stylish interiors spread across 1,000+ square meters of space. Designer-clad dance divas sit on stylish sofas; elite Bangkokians mingle with ostentatious sophistication, loosening as the booze flows and the vibe grows, a vibe built by the best sound and lighting system in Bangkok. Currently closed Sunday through Tuesday, a true nightclub this might be, but to utilize a setup of such magnitude requires talent of equal measure behind the decks, and again KU DÉ TA has spared nothing in its quest to bring Bangkok the cream of the crop. Promising something for everyone, each night of musical delight caters to a slightly differing taste. On 9 0 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Wednesdays the Bangkok Invaders headline at ‘Crush’, with free-flow sparkling wine for the ladies from 9-11pm. On Thursdays Head DJ Eddy Frampton, Kimball Collins and Alex Imix take to the turntables for ‘This Is House’ (with a buy 1-get 1 free promotion between 9-11pm on standard drinks). ‘Flash Friday’ ushers in the weekend with DJ’s SG and Master D, while ‘Stereo Saturday’ sees Frampton and Collins joined by Tomi Nori. No nightlife revolution can survive on soundtrack alone, however. Designed to negate the harrowing heat of Bangkok, KU DÉ TA’s sophisticated cocktails – such as the outstanding Old Fashioned (B320++), the sweet, sour and spicy Thai Basil Smash (B320++) and the deliciously juicy Berry Man Cobbler (B360++) – pack more punch than Tony Jaa with their elegant balance of power and panache. Along with neighbourhood upstarts like Maggie Choos, Namsaah Bottling Trust, Smalls, and Whisgars, KU DÉ TA is spearheading the Silom-Sathorn nightlife scene. Having always been ‘where the money is’, the central business district is now where the beautiful people want to be.
KU DÉ TA [MAP 5/G6] 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd 0 2108 2000 | kudeta.com
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Apoteka
BAR APOTEKA [MAP 3/E8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight With a name based on an outdated word for pharmacist, the place is intended to emulate a 19thcentury apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has an old-school feel and an awesome line-up of live music. High ceilings and red brick walls enclose a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the main wall. Large cases filled with vintage-coloured medicine bottles flank the bar. The outdoor seating is mellow – a wooden patio with some cosy furniture that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke and a beer. Drink selection includes a nice selection of beer and custom cocktails.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S [MAP 3/D6] Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2253 4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar that predates any of the swankier clubs on Sukhumvit 11. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists in-the-know who fill up on B70 beers and pocket-change gin and tonics before heading off to eat and party — though don’t be surprised if you end up
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J. Boroski Mixology here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from more upscale nightspots like Sugar Club.
J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY Near Soi Thonglor | facebook.com/pages/ Jboroski-Mixology | Open every evening if you can find it Why the secrecy? Proprietor and noted mixologist Joseph Boroski puts it this way: “I want it to be difficult to find. If people take the trouble to find it, they really want to come. I don’t want it to be a place filled with tourists or casual passersby.” Boroski’s skill is legendary and he is responsible for cocktail menus at several of the city’s leading hotels and bars. There is no drinks list here. Drinks are created to reflect a customer’s specifications or according to the whims of the person making them; hence tipples at J. Boroski aren’t cheap, but their unique character and the bar’s remarkable ambiance make them worth the tariff.
SOULBAR [MAP 5/C1] 945 Charoenkrung Rd | 08 3092 2266 Facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok | Mon-Fri 6pm-1am Metalwork, modern art, and smoking live music form the backbone of this shophouse turned small bar. Sitting at the
SoulBar
The Friese-Greene Club split of Charoenkrung Road, SoulBar has set roots in Chinatown, territory that was long neglected by the nightlife scene, and gives the city something it’s never had. With Kombucha-beer concoctions, stiff cocktails, and unbeatable Motown, funk, and soul that rock the glass-framed walls through midnight, this little vanguard has kicked off an old town revival that shows no signs of slowing.
THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB [MAP 3/M11] Sukhumvit 22 | fgc.in.th | Open Tues-Sun 6pm-11pm The Friese-Greene Club is a member’s only club where guests are always welcome. Just walk down Sukhumvit Soi 22 until you come to the Usman Restaurant. Three doors later you will find the anonymous entrance to FrieseGreene; ring the bell and wait for someone to let you in. There are two floors. On the ground level is a bar with a very reasonably priced line-up of drinks: wine, for example, averages around B1000 per bottle, and a shot of Johnnie Walker Black, B105. But what really makes this place special is found on the second floor. Here, a tiny cinema with 11 seats and state-of-theart projection equipment shows a wide selection of classic and cult films.
U.N.C.L.E. [MAP 5/F6] Sathorn Soi 12 | facebook.com/pages/UNCLE/ Open every evening except Monday
U.N.C.L.E. bangkok101.com
listings
Sugar Club One of the most enticing small bars in Bangkok, U.N.C.L.E. (United Nations of Cocktail Lovers Everywhere), is a hideaway that exudes class. Located above Lady Brett, a popular tavern on Sathorn 12, the bar is entered by proceeding down a narrow passageway until you reach a small door. From there, climb the dimly lit stairs. After a couple of flights, you will see a doorway covered with a piece of black velvet. Push it aside and voila: you’ll find yourself in U.N.C.L.E. Bartender Chris is a master of his trade. In addition to creating authentic classic cocktails, he serves a variety of unique drinks and will be happy to create something based on your specifications.
CLUB SUGAR CLUB [MAP 3/R1] 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (entrance next to the Australian Pub) | bashbangkok.com | Midnightvery late Open until “very late,” Sugar Club is brash. The guys who set this place up
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spliced strands of global clubbing DNA with the usually sleazy after-hours club concept. There are burlesque dancers ranging from midgets and robots on stilts to cross-dressing whacker Pan Pan (the shows bring to mind risqué super-club Manumission at times); the fixtures and furniture are of the very glam sort (gleaming Louis IX furniture, etc.); and the DJs are often big names. Head up the stairs lined with misshapen mirrors and you’ll find three floors of fun, two of them taken up by the main room and the mezzanine which overlooks it.
FUNKY VILLA [MAP 3/S6] Thong Lor Soi 10 | 08 5253 2000 | 6pm-2am The name Funky Villa conjures images of roller-blading babes in bikinis, all partying at a Hugh Hefner-owned villa in the Med. The reality’s different. Steer your way through the fairground-sized car park, past the BMWs and chic lounge-deck area, and you’ll hit a swish one-storey house, more posh than funky. Some of Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls around in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to
shake off the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs. Forget about edgy sounds. Here it’s all about getting down with the CEOs of tomorrow.
KU DÉ TA [MAP 5/G6] 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2108 2000 | kudeta.net 6pm-late KU DÉ TA adds a new dimension to nights out in Bangkok. To some extent, it follows in the footsteps of nightspot vanguards by providing an upscale club experience for the city’s movers and shakers, but it has also carved out its own unique aesthetic, making it one of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues. Undoubtedly, the space within this glittering outfit catches the eye first. The main club is a vast rectangular area with skyscraper ceilings and a long window running down an entire side, affording an exceptional view of Bangkok lit up at night. Another feature is the lighting setup — a snazzy, modern LED “chandelier” hangs over the dance floor, a variety of different colours twinkling in time with the music.
"Une ambiance accueillante et chaleureuse parfaite pour un dîner en amoureux" "A warm and intimate atmosphere perfect for dining out with your loved one" Hannah, UK Sukhumvit Soi 23, BTS Asoke (exit 1) 1 st street on the right in soi 23 For reservation 02 259 30 33 contact@comptoireiffel.com
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Mixx Discotheque
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd BTS Chidlom | mixxdiscotheque.com | B350 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. Be warned, there’s a cover charge for guys and girls, but it includes a drink and the chance to party until nearly sunrise.
QUP [MAP 3/E7] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2252 3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Qup (née Q Bar) is well-known for pouring stiff drinks — there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka — and its finger-on-thepulse music, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. There’s a flirty crowd every night and a maximalist style. This is one of Bangkok’s most consistent clubs, one always primed to deliver a great night.
THE CLUB [MAP X/XX] 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 0 2629 1010 | theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am B100
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The Club The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret lend a fairytale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to mid-1990s psy-trance raves. The music is loud, banging house, a full range of four-to-the-floor beats and cranium-rattling techno. The drink prices are kind to your wallet, and glow sticks are handed out for free. Rave on!
BAR WITH THE VIEWS HEAVEN [MAP 4/F3-4] 20F Zen@CentralWorld, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am Zen’s appeal depends heavily on the weather, as the design offers precious little protection but on a warm night. Still, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital, no matter the season. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear puree — sure, it has a slightly cheesy name, but the taste makes up for it.
Heaven
Moon Bar
MOON BAR [MAP 5/K7] 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban sprawl from above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360-degree views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant, and one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners. Take a seat on the sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or signature cocktail, and feel the romance bloom. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.
OCTAVE [MAP 3/S10] 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back some of Octave’s punchy, refreshing cocktails. DJs spin house through the night, a style that fits nicely with the urbane aesthetic built up by the wooden features, light blue fixtures, and classy drinks that feature a respectable price tag but don’t drain the wallet. Among the city’s scrum of rooftop bars, Octave is a sure bet.
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listings
Red Sky
RED SKY [MAP 4/F3-4] 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelresorts.com 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slowcooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not cheap, but the daily happy hours (buy one get one drink on selected wine, beer and cocktails from 4pm-6pm).
THE SPEAKEASY [MAP 3/B13] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you
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The Speakeasy enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era America, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished — it’s a welloiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck, called Terrace Bar, people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long, international snack menu stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts. Wines are available at solid prices, and cocktails include unique, home-made vodka infusions.
THREE SIXTY [MAP 5/B2] Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am Three Sixty is the only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire, dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, year round. A private glass lift takes guests all the way up to the 32nd floor, which boasts panoramic vistas from its 130-metre tall, circular lounge. Guests can feast on a range of miniature
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Woo Bar culinary experiences, from foie gras and caviar to risotto, or sip on fine wines and cocktails as the sun sets in a blaze of colour behind Wat Arun. Just as gently, the soft lounge lights come on to create an air of casual intimacy. As the first stars appear, the city’s coolest jazz sounds set a mood that true aficionados will not be able to resist.
WOO BAR [MAP 5/G7] W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok | Sun-Wed 9am1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to characterise the hotel franchise. It’s chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard drinks. In fact, you might struggle to stop at just one. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release, or, better yet, a weekend party.
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LA BOUTIQUE THE SECRET GARDEN OF CECILIA By By Molly Lanscombe Gaby Doman
Wx
ho doesn’t xxxxxlove xxxxxx a little xxxxx whimsy in their wardrobe? Ok, so you might not be able xxx to wear flowing florals and layered chiffon every day, but a heartyxxx sprinkling to choose from for those days when only a little romance will xxx do is always welcome. La Boutique’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection, The Secret Garden of Ceclia, is a romantic, 1970s-esque collection that was inspired after creative AT: director, AVAILABLE Patcharawat Trakarnsantikul, read Ian McEwan’s Atonement – with its ill-fated romance between Cecilia and Robbie. The collection is full of loose florals, a nod xxxto the garden the romance blossomed in, and more structured – almost ‘boned’ xxx – black and white pieces which allude to the innocent and dark sides xxx of the relationship. Loulou de La Falaise is identified as another inspiration for the collection. The 1970s xxxweb Yves Saint Laurent muse and fashion designer was known for her eclectic, effortless style, which is present throughout the collection – even in its most tailored pieces. Despite the monotone palates and the structure of some of the pieces, the collection has a lightness about it which, let’s face it, is essential to comfort in Bangkok’s heat. The boned and slightly trussed-up appearance of some of the gowns and jackets is offset with sheer fabrics that are lightweight and workable for the local humidity. The collection is made up of mix and match pieces that can be worn in a number of ways: cross-hatched trousers, crop tops, over-sized jackets, and glorious high-waisted A-line skirts with floral embroidery and the aforementioned boning. The collection also has a selection of beautiful dresses – the kind of dress you probably won’t get an abundance of opportunities to wear, but which, when you do, really hit the mark when it comes to easy, floaty glamour. Picture the scene: a garden party, a flowing dress and a heavily filtered snap; La Boutique’s The Secret Garden of Cecilia is the delicate, bohemian and oh-so-pretty summer collection of your Instagram dreams. La Boutique is available at: La Boutique Flagship Store, Level 2, Eden Zone at CentralWorld Plaza 0 2613 1501 La Boutique Corner, Level 1, Siam Paragon, 090 7972479 (Coming soon at EmQuartier). bangkok101.com
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SHOPPING
listings
Duly
TAILOR DULY [MAP 3/Q10] 55/2 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2672 2891 | 10am7pm daily | laladuly.co.th Duly recently opened a new boutique at the 2nd floor, Royal Wing of the Siam Kempinski Hotel behind Siam Square. The original stand-alone shop on Sukhumvit Road was also renovated in 2011 to reflect Duly’s pre-eminent position as Bangkok’s leading shirt maker. The real draw here is the made-to-measure service that allows customers to create their own perfect shirt with no limits. Shirt patterns can be contoured to fit, collars picked from 22 different style and cuffs from 10. The store stocks over 30 types of button and also offers a monogramming service.
FASHION GALLERIA [MAP 5/C2] Suite 108 River City Shopping Complex, Yotha Rd | 0 2639 1401 | info@fashiongalleria.biz Since 1999, Fashion Galleria has provided its diverse customers with the finest hand-crafted clothing. But it isn’t just sartorial taste that has turned the shop into a familiar and favourite face in River City, the easy-going shopping complex beside the Si Phaya Pier. Fashion Galleria sources its medium to high-end fabrics from esteemed international brands, many in Italy, like Vitale Barberis Canonico, Loro Piana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Reda, and Marzoni. Clients are fitted twice after selecting their preferred fabric. If in a rush, the first measurements can be finished in two or three hours.
JULY TAILOR [MAP 5/K6] 30/6 Saladang Rd | 0 2233 0171 | Mon-Sat 9.30pm-6pm | julytailor.com/en Established by Nui Sae Lui in 1939, today July Tailor is run by his third son, Sompop Louilarpprasert. July Tailor is famous for the tailoring of suits and 9 8 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Lucky Angel royal patterns with fine and delicate workmanship. It also prides itself on punctual delivery. This is perhaps why it was selected as a tailor to the Thai royal family. The store also enjoys a fine reputation among high-level local and international government officials, politicians and businessmen. Use of fine cloths, lining materials and accessories imported from Italy ensures comfort while hand stitching ensures excellent workmanship and fit and the unique bespoke look.
LUCKY ANGEL [MAP 4/M5] 26-26/4 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2650 7577 | MonSat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-8pm Boyce, the principal at Lucky Angel, does a fine job of explaining fabrics, cuts, timetable and prices to customers. He and his wife go out of their way to help clients select the best materials for their needs. An 18-year veteran of the business, he takes around 30 measurements when sizing you up for a suit and will constantly ask questions regarding your preferences as he goes about his work. Only opened 3 years ago, the shop already has a loyal clientele and prides itself on its repeat business and comprehensive after-sales service.
NARIN COUTURE [MAP 3/G10] 180 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2251 9237 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-9pm (last fitting at 8pm) | narincouture.com B. Narin of Narin Couture graduated from Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and spent five years working in Paris before returning home to open his own boutique tailoring service. His background is undoubtedly one of the reasons his suits receive high marks for style. He and his master cutters, many of whom have over 30 years of experience, turn out elegant evening gowns and immaculate suits in top
Narin Couture quality fabrics. Some of Narin’s creations have even made it onto the silver screen, being worn by movie stars in Hollywood blockbusters.
PERRY’S [MAP 5/K5] 2/1 Silom Rd | 0 2233 9236, 0 2267 0622 Mon-Sat 9.30am-8pm | perry.tailor@gmail.com Legendary tailor Perry’s has been going strong for four decades. It is run by genial septuagenarian twin brothers Narong and Phonchai, both of whom are known for their ability to measure and cut ‘by the eye’. They maintain superb quality through their own workshop, where 30 plus artisans use only imported fabrics – the likes of Ermenegildo Zenga, Loro Piana, Dormeuil and Lanificio from Switzerland, Italy and England. Among their more illustrious clients they count the Duke of Edinburgh, former UN Secretary General Boutros Boutros-Ghali and late Hollywood star Robin Williams. It takes from one to two weeks for Perry’s to make a two-piece suit, which will run to B20000 or more depending on the material selected.
PINKY [MAP 4/L5] Mahatun Plaza Arcade | 888/40 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2253 6328 | Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm (Sunday’s by appointment) | pinkytailor.com Established since 1980, at Pinky you will find 3 floors of high-quality fabrics. The shop caters to ladies and gents and
Perry’s bangkok101.com
listings
Pinky
Rajawongse
offers exceptional tailoring for quality trousers, suits, tuxedos, uniforms, overcoats, skirts and dresses. A specialty here though is shirts, and as the business points out on its website, shirts are a staple part of any person’s wardrobe. From formal dress shirts and business wear through to high fashion and casual, the shirt is the ideal way to express personality, no matter what the occasion. Popular with visiting dignitaries and local diplomats, Pinky also has a loyal repeat clientele.
RAJAWONGSE [MAP 3/E10] 130 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2255 3714 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm | dress-for-success.com
SHOPPING
Tailor on Ten
At Rajawongse, a favourite of visiting statesman and ambassadors, it is possible to create your own design from a wide array of fabrics and accessories. Traditional to contemporary, dramatic to exotic, classic to original, you pick your preferred style of garment and fabrics and tailors Jesse and Victor will create it. Says Jesse, “It is our belief that every single customer should be treated like a V.I.P. From formal wear to business suits and sport coats, our motto always holds true: dress like a winner and you’ll be treated like one.”
TAILOR ON TEN [MAP 3/G10] 93 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 8 | 084 877 1543 | tailoronten.com
Established by brothers Ben and Alex Cole, Tailor on Ten is located in a quaint townhouse on Sukhumvit Soi 8. The business has a strong reputation for quality. Suit fabrics are sourced from renowned clothiers such as Vitale Barberis Canonico, Trabaldo Togna, Holland & Sherry (of Savile Row), and Dormeuil. All shirts are 100 percent cotton, the shop favourite coming from Thomas Mason, a British-heritage brand made in Italy. A range of Irish and Japanese linen is also available for suits and shirts. Recently, the shop launched an accessories line, with custom belts, Italian ties and pocket squares, to name a few.
IES & GENTS CUSTOM TAILORS D A L -
LUCKY ANGEL vit Rd
dee Soi Ru amru
CE
Plaza Athenee
s Rd
B OY
Sukhum
Ploenchit
Wireles
by
All Season Place
Conrad Bangkok
LUCKY ANGEL
26-26/24 soi ruamrudee (behind conrad hotel), ploenchit rd., lumpini, patumwan, bangkok 10330 t. (+66) 2 650 7577 m. (+66) 80 559 2655 boycelama28@hotmail.com
Ruamrudee soi 1 Ruamrudee soi 2 Aetas Hotel
SHOPPING
unique boutique
Pure Luck - Bangkok’s Bold, New Bubbly Brew -
T
here’s a new drink in town, a fizzy, fermented beverage that, unlike those other fizzy, fermented beverages, comes in a variety of fresh flavours and is packed with health benefits. It’s called kombucha tea. Already big among alternative-health aficionados in East Asia and the West, this probiotic brew is now surging in popularity in Bangkok, thanks in large part to a gamechanging couple, their renovated shophouse, and the brand they transplanted from the Big Apple, Pure Luck. “We founded Pure Luck in New York about a year before we even started making kombucha. Back then, we were all about new ideas and green roofs, and we still are. With experience, our ideas have evolved,” says Tibb Phungtham, the jokingly dubbed “big boss” and partner to “small boss” Brett Casper. After relocating to Bangkok, the two refurbished a flat near Hua Lamphong, burnishing the walls to give their home raw beauty, turning its roof into an organic vegetable garden, and adding a greenhouse. In these new digs they set up a home-brew operation to provide the local population with their favourite drink. In short order, their brand has bloomed like tea leaves around a healthy urban living concept. 1 0 0 | M AY 2 0 1 5
The benefits of kombucha vary from brand to brand. At a basic level, this naturally effervescent drink provides the same benefits as any tea: it’s an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory; it has anti-microbial and anti-cancer properties; it boosts immunity, metabolism, and mood; it’s rich in amino acids, B vitamins, beneficial acids, and probiotics; and, crucially, it’s a natural remedy for hangovers. It has noticeable tang, a sort of sour kick that elevates the taste, whether poured over ice or mixed with fresh beer. Pure Luck offers eleven flavours, from raspberry mangosteen to hot ginger, achieved through blends of dried herbs, teas, and botanicals: no juices or flavours are ever added during the brewing process. “We simply brew tea, ferment it, and put it in a bottle,” explains Phungtham. While kombucha has provided a foundation for the brand, Casper and Phungtham have even greater ambitions for Pure Luck. “Taking aim at urban toxicity and our mass food production systems has always been one of our main goals,” says Phungtham. “It’s amazing that people will recognize a corporate logo, but not the leaf of a tomato. When you start taking kombucha seriously, it sets you on a journey of discovery, one not only of our own microbiology, but also of larger scale symbiotic systems, or lack thereof, in capitalist society. We want to connect people with their food, help them understand that what you put in your body is just as important the environment that you live in.” As the brand continues to develop, so too do the products. Already Casper and Phungtham have largescale projects in the works, and new flavours will soon crack the line-up of established styles. Currently, Pure Luck kombucha tea is available at a handful of health food stores (Baimiang Healthy Store, Oleaf Organic, and Radiance Whole Foods), artisanal markets (the Spring & Summer Epicurean Markets), and for home delivery, as well, on orders of 24 bottles or more. At SoulBar on Charoen Krung Road, the tangy brew is served in a slightly different form, blended with draft Leo to create the legendary Spring, Summer, and Autumn beers, the versatility of the tea on delicious display. Although to the uninitiated, kombucha can sound exotic, peculiar, or perhaps a little too holistic, there’s no reason to be intimidated by it. This funky tea is light and refreshing, chockfull of active enzymes, and representative of a balanced relationship with the natural world. “Pure Luck is more than just kombucha,” says Phungtham. “We are a lifestyle brand, a way of living.”
PURE LUCK BANGKOK 31-33 Soi Nana (Chinatown) | 09 3124 5952 info@pureluckbangkok.com | pureluckbangkok.com
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The Soulful Science of Thai Cuisine: Lemongrass Thailand’s culinary repertoire has always been a blend of art and science. At Ruen Urai – “the House of Gold” – dishes are prepared with passion and flair based on an intimate knowledge of ingredients and their flavours, textures, and aromas. Paying homage to the doctor of herbal medicine who originally resided in the century-old golden teakwood house in which Ruen Urai is located, our Thai gourmet voyage continues to explore zesty herbs and spices and their meaning and usage. Through their chemistry and harmony, alchemy is created. Native to India and tropical Asia, lemongrass is a hallmark herb in Asian cuisine. It offers subtle citrus flavours and a distinctive lemony fragrance. Related to citronella, it can be used fresh, dried, or powdered in soups, curries, and teas. Suitable for both seafood and meat, whole stalks of trimmed and lightly bruised lemongrass make excellent skewers in the cooking process. Used in Ayurvedic medicine or added to tea, it helps relieve coughs, colds, and nasal congestion. Lemongrass oil works as a pesticide or a repellent and scents candles and perfumes in aromatherapy. As a preservative, its oil protects ancient palm-leaf manuscripts. Grilled chicken infused with lemongrass and served in a tamarind sauce encapsulates the unique flavours and fragrances of classic Thai cuisine. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel opens from 12 noon to 11 p.m. 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
WELLN ESS
treatment
Breeze Spa - Freedom of Choice for Free Spirits BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
I
f a spa could be a woman, Amari Watergate’s Breeze Spa would be a travel enthusiast, an independent New Ager thirsty for adventure, one with a penchant for wellbeing. In the same vein, through a concept that sings with individuality, Breeze has distinguished itself from the rank and file of Bangkok many spas. Grey mosaic tiles beautifully match bluish furniture, as well as splashes of white and green in the décor. The colour tones turn this open space into a peaceful poolside haven, warming up your spirit before you settle in to a signature treatment. The recently launched Bangkok Retreat Package (B3800/120 min), exclusive to Amari Watergate, is designed to beat fatigue and balance the body and mind. It targets travellers looking kick off or cap a memorable trip to Thailand. That said, the magic works just as well on weary locals and expats. The journey begins with an aromatic foot ritual. It’s followed by a body massage that focusses on tired legs; heated stones and firm pressure from the masseuse’s hands ease muscle tension and promote relaxation. Throughout the treatment, the masseuse employs a combination of pampering therapies, applying specially blended “Breeze” oil on the skin to release tension, and
1 0 2 | M AY 2 0 1 5
Amari’s “Comfort Zone” products for facial treatments. The dreamy top-to-toe package ends with a deep-cleansing facial that clears the skin, leaving you with a noticeably brighter and naturally radiant appearance. Perhaps even more fun than being treated is choosing how you would like to unwind. Breeze offers a handful of signature mood therapy massages (B2100/60 min, B2800/90 min). All you have to do is pick a sensation that matches the mood you desire: dreamy, serene, rejuvenated, invigorated, or energised. The rest falls the capable hands of the therapist, injecting your day with your preferred feeling. When muscles and mood are taken care of, you can focus on the finer details. The neighbouring Breeze Salon services hair and nails for both men and women. The total Breeze package treats your senses with a fresh approach, putting bounce in your step before you ship out for your next destination.
BREEZE SPA
[MAP 4/F1]
8F Amari Watergate Bangkok, 847 Petchburi Rd 0 2653 9000 ext. 394 | breeze-spa.com | 10am-10pm
bangkok101.com
treatment
Anantara Spa
ANANTARA SPA [MAP 5/L5] Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2476 0022 Ext. 1563 | spa.anantara.com | 10am-10pm | $$$$
An extensive list of treatment packages await, with options covering health and beauty therapies or a combination of both. The various massages focus on restoring physical balance and harmony by easing knotted muscles and stimulating blood flow along the meridian lines. Also known as acupressure corridors, the meridians are pathways through which energy flows around the body. Prior to core massage, many of the treatments – which use imported premium blend Elemis spa products – begin with a soothing foot scrub and milk bath. Particularly recommended is the exceptional Anantara Signature Massage (90 min/B3900). It combines bodywork using a special formula hot oil for deep muscle relaxation and meridian flow with stomach-focused detox massage designed to boost digestion and clear toxins from your system. Other blissful packages worth considering include Journey of Siam (190 min/ B5500), Stress Release Massage (90 min/B3500), and River Stone Back Massage (60 min/B4000). Poolside and in-room spa treatments are also available.
Massira Wellness and Spa bangkok101.com
Sanctuary Wellness and Spa
MASSIRA WELLNESS AND SPA [MAP 5/L5]
Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside Hotel, 2074 Charoenkrung Rd | 0 2289 9099 massiraspa.com | 10am-10pm | $$$
The spa’s treatment menu is extensive with numerous packages designed to cosset and beautify. Of particular note is the three-hour Massira Rejuvenate package (B4800) which exfoliates the skin before relieving muscles with Swedish body massage techniques. Another treatment worth mentioning is the Purify package (B4300), two-and-ahalf hours of pampering that begins with a 30 minute Jacuzzi bath. For those with limited time, the spa also offers a number of relaxing one- and two-hour massage and beauty treatments. The Massira aromatherapy massage (B1800/B2500; 60/90 mins) uses the calming scent of local herbs and specially blended oils to make both your mind and body relax. The Massira Sports massage (B1800/ B2500; 60/90 mins) on the other hand is designed to help exercise and fitness fanatics overcome tight muscles and pains caused by extensive exercise.
SANCTUARY WELLNESS AND SPA [MAP 5/L5]
Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit 18 | 0 261 7100 rembrandtbkk.com | 9am-10pm | $$$
Sanctuary Wellness and Spa at Rembrandt Hotel has several pampering therapies, one of which is a great Traditional Thai Massage (B900/60 min, B1200/90 min) that stretches the muscles and uses pressure to stimulate the energy meridians of the body. It is one of several therapies at the spa designed to alleviate physical tiredness, aches and pains. Many others provide the sense of relaxation and peace that spa-goers look for. The Jet Lag Massage (B2500/90 min) helps to rebalance your body after a long flight
WELLN ESS
Seasons Spa and includes a foot mask to soothe swollen legs and feet, and an eye mask to rejuvenate tired skin around the eyes. Other recommendations are the Sport Massage (B1500/60 min, B2000/90min), the Thai Herbal Compress (B1900/90 min), and the Hot Stone Massage (B2500/90 min).
SEASONS SPA [MAP 5/L5] Conrad Bangkok Hotel , All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Rd | 0 2690 9355 | conradhotels. com/Bangkok | 9am-10pm | $$$
The 11 exclusive treatment rooms are prepped for pleasure. Each provides a private changing room as well as a shower area that incorporates its own sauna. The presidential suite, the crème de la crème of the choices, even has a Jacuzzi. The Real Aromatherapy Experience (B3500/90min) aims to melt away stress and tension through a blend of Swedish massage and Thai acupressure, using aromatherapy traditions from the West to calm the mind. There is no need to worry if time is limited. The spa’s on-the-fly de-stress collection features treatments that take just 30 minutes. Guests can also indulge in various pampering packages, including Intensive Muscle Release (B3500/90min), Rose Hydrating Cocoon (B2800/60min), and a choice of three treatments in the Bath Collection (B1800/45min each). To elevate the experience, Seasons Spa uses only premium scented oils and products, imported from Aromatherapy Associates in London. When all is done and dusted, guests are casually escorted to a lounge, where they are treated to herbal drinks and light cookies. SPA COSTS $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1000 $$$ :: B1000-B2000 $$$$ :: B2000+
M AY 2 0 1 5 | 1 0 3
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SIGHTSEEING a Bang Pa-In Summer Palace b The Khao Khiao Open Zoo c The Si Racha Tiger Farm d Pattaya Shooting Park e Nong Nooch Tropical Botanical Garden f Mimosa Pattaya g Kanchanaburi War Cemetery h Bridge over the river Kwai i Erawan National Park j Sai Yok National Park k Ancient Siam l Bueng Chawak Aquarium
TEMPLES 1 Wat Yai Chai Mong Khon 2 Wat Phra Sri Sanphet 3 Wat Mahathat 4 Wat Phuttai Sawan HISTORICAL RUINS 1 Ayutthaya Historical Park 2 Phra Narai Ratchaniwet MARKETS 1 Amphrawa Floating Market 2 Walking Street Pattaya 3 Sam Chuk 100 Years Market
MUSEUMS 1 Teddy Bear Museum 2 The Ripley's believe It or Not Odditorium 3 Art in Paradise 4 Thai Human Imagery Museum 5 Museum of Chong Khaokad ENTERTAINMENT 1 Scuba Dawgs Pattaya 2 Alcazar Cabaret 3 Pattaya Water Park
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17 DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Sukhumvit
ARTS & CULTURE 1 Japan Foundation 2 Koi Art Gallery 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta 5 TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Centre)
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MALLS 1 Robinsons 2 Terminal 21 3 Emporium
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M AY 2 0 1 5 | 1 0 7
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M Y B A N G KO K
Gaggan ANAND
A pioneer of progressive Indian cuisine, Chef Gaggan Anand is on a roll. His eponymous Bangkok restaurant recently scooped the No.1 spot at this year’s prestigious Acqua Panna-S.Pellegrino Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards. Much in demand and not one to rest on his laurels – he is currently planning a new bar outlet – the busy chef found a few minutes between kitchen duties and a plethora of media commitments for a quick chat with Bangkok 101.
How important was your Asia’s 50 Best win for Bangkok’s fine dining scene? Hugely important – but then I’m bound to say that aren’t I! Seriously, it’s another bold statement after the success of David Thompson’s Nahm last year. It shows that Bangkok is definitely coming of age as a fine dining destination in Asia. We were well represented at the recent awards with excellent Bangkok restaurants showing a range of international cuisines, and I think we’ll continue to punch above our weight in the future. In your opinion, does Bangkok warrant its own Michelin guide? Many restaurateurs here, myself included, think so. It is high time but I wonder will the Michelin people be as flexible in terms of selection criteria as they have been in Japan. Tell us more about your new bar project. It’s going to raise the bar in Bangkok! We plan to have a lab dedicated to creating cocktails and more. Mixology will involve both bartenders and chefs. It also gives me the chance to indulge in one of my other passions – music – and I will probably DJ whenever I get the opportunity! What’s currently influencing you in the kitchen? Kolkata, my home town. We are currently putting together a new 1 1 2 | M AY 2 0 1 5
menu based on my early memories of Kolkata and in few weeks my whole research team is heading there to explore the culinary scene. I have challenged them to create their own innovative versions of the dishes they discover. How would you describe your culinary style? Mad and minimalistic! It is comfort food that has been developed through science and art. In the end it has to be progressive in approach. It is all about the intensity of flavours, the contrast in textures, and the need for original presentation. I suppose in this regard I was influenced by my time training under Ferran Adria at el Bulli in Spain. How do you see Indian cuisine evolving in Bangkok? Nothing much has happened lately, discounting the recent fad for kebab-style dining. We are still very old school really. Which is why I am opening a curry house right opposite my current restaurant to compete with us [ha ha!] What do you do to escape the stresses of work? Music and sex... often enjoyed simultaneously! Where do you like to go out for a good meal or drinks in the city? For good food and drink I like to visit
Eat Me off Silom Road. It opens until late, so I can grab a meal after we close, and they cook whatever you want. The owner is also a dear friend and I think it’s important we support each other in the trade. What do you think Bangkok’s next big dining trend will be? I think we’ll see a clutch of young chefs looking to create Asian cuisines, particularly Thai, in a modern way. Much is made of the traditional aspects of Thai cooking but the techniques lend themselves to experimentation, which is why we have been seeing greater use of non-Thai ingredients in ostensibly traditional Thai dishes. Purists might not like it but I think it is exciting to see the local culinary arts moving with the times.
Gaggan 68/1 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd 0 2652 1700 | eatatgaggan.com Daily 6pm – 11pm
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