Discover Taos - Summer Visitors Guide 2015 by The Taos News

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Kit Carson Hollyhocks • 28” x 26” • Oil on Linen

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Parsons Gallery of the West • Taos • parsonswest.com • 575.737.9200 All Stable Opening • Aug 8th • 5-7pm Nedra Matteucci Galleries • Santa Fe • matteucci.com • 505.982.4631 Claggett/Rey Gallery • Vail claggettrey.com • 970.476.9350

InSight Gallery • Fredericksburg insightgallery.com • 830.997.9920

Saks Gallery, Denver saksgalleries.com • 303.333.4144

The Adobe • Ruidoso theadobefineart.com • 575.257.5795

Oh-Be-Joyful Gallery • Crested Butte ohbejoyfulgallery.com • 970.349.5936

Oh-Be-Joyful Gallery • Telluride ohbejoyfulgallery.com • 970.728.6868 Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

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LOTA REALTY, INC.

575.758.7890 TaosRealEstate.com page@TaosHomePage.com 12

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Taos 68

Dixon

Chimayo 84 285

To Santa Fe 16

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Ranchos de Taos

518

Picuris Smokes

Drink, Dine, & Dance! breakfast lunch dinner special events catering live music dance hall cakes & pastries for special occasions meeting & workshop rooms roof top Paella parties

outdoor photo: Jim Cox, interior photos: Tina Larkin, food photos: Katherine Egli

happy hour with tapas 3pm to 5pm | open daily from 7am to 9pm | closed Tuesdays Sunday: Brunch 9am to 3pm | happy hour 3 - 5 | dinner 5 - close for booking information: info@oldmartinashall.com or call 575.758.3003

575.758.3003 | www.oldmartinashall.com Across from San Francisco de Asis Church | 4140 Hwy 68 | Ranchos de Taos Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

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109 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

SUMMER/FALL

CONTENTS2015 98

130

156

DEPARTMENTS 28

FROM THE EDITOR

Taos: Discover, explore and experience

GETTING HERE

Driving directions, airport, rental care and shuttle information

AREA MAPS

Points of interest, a downtown walking tour and the Enchanted Circle Clockwise from top: The Matriarch Suite-Mabel Dodge Luhan, at Palacio de Marquesa, Courtesy Heritage Hotels & Resorts/Jeff Caven Resort Hotel Photography; Arroyo Seco-based Taos Cowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blueberry and strawberry ice cream made with the purest ingredients, photo by Tina Larkin; and mountain biking in the Enchanted Circle.

ARTS AND CULTURE

Stories about visual, literary and musical arts, including a list of museums and a piece on the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Artists.

COVER DESIGN: Michelle M. Gutierrez Continues on page 30

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Welcome

SUMMER/FALL

EDITORSNOTE

Bienvenidos! to Taos County

and Northern New Mexico! I’m proud to represent the people, cultures and history that make northern New Mexico so unique. As New Mexico State Representative for District 42 from Taos County, I work hard to ensure the protection of our valuable cultural and natural resources. Whether you are returning or this is your first visit to our High-Desert Paradise, we’re glad you’re here. Stop and take in the views, savor that last drop of green chile, and enjoy the shopping!

Welcome… We’re glad to have you. State Representative Roberto “Bobby” J. Gonzales District 42, Democrat

Jim O’Donnell

DISCOVER, EXPLORE AND

EXPERIENCE

nce the snow melts and the winds of spring die down, and the air starts to warm up, a new energy takes over Taos. While winter is about hitting the slopes and otherwise laying low, summer in Northern New Mexico is an active and exciting time.

“Discover Taos, Visitor & Newcomer Guide” for summer and fall 2015 should be your guide to capturing that excitement. We have stories that will help you explore, discover and experience Taos in ways you may not have expected before. We have stories dedicated to our area’s significant arts and culture, whether that means the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Artists, the new generation of Taos artists or local music and film events. These are experiences you won’t want to miss. Check out page 36 for more information. And whether you are from here, or just visiting, you’re gonna need to eat something. And while you’re eating something, you might as well have a drink, right? It’s all part of the experience. We’ve got all your foodie desires covered in our food and beverage section, beginning on page 76. Of course we can also help you find a place to stay (page 98) but if you’re an adventurous type (and we’re guessing you are, else you wouldn’t be here), then you’ll want to skip right ahead to page 106 to explore all the options and choose your own Taos adventure. From sightseeing to rock climbing, it’s all here. And lastly, the Enchanted Circle wouldn’t be the place it is without the communities that dot this rugged and beautiful landscape. From sacred Taos Pueblo to the charming Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort, you’ll want to discover the people and places that make these communities special. This year’s Guide comes with an added bonus: The new Discover Taos website, an online repository of wonderful images, great information and extra summer content. Check it out at DiscoverTaos.com. Readers are also encouraged to check out our Facebook and Twitter accounts, as well as our Pinterest, Instagram and YouTube feeds.

Paid Political Advertisement

Paid for by the Committee to Re-Elect Roberto “Bobby” J. Gonzales, Marcos Gonzales Treasurer

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Catch the excitement of a Taos summer and don’t forget to bring along your official Discover Taos guide. — Andy Jones, special sections editor

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

SUMMER/FALL

CONTENTS2015 76

128

STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS DISCOVER TAOS

SUMMER VISITOR GUIDE

Visit discovertaos.com to explore what else Taos has to offer

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cindy Brown Andy Dennison Teresa Dovalpage Mel A. James Jim O’Donnell Yvonne Pesquera Steve Tapia Wayne Thurber EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Dylan Atencio

TAOS, IN PICTURES Continued from page 26

DEPARTMENTS

A collection of great images with pertinent information, guaranteed to whet your whistle for all things Taos:

118

Features on the best dining options in Taos, including our favorite breakfast burritos, the best bar food and the burgeoning food cart culture.

LODGING

Teresa Dovalpage looks at two of our area’s most unique accommodations.

106

CHOOSE YOUR TAOS ADVENTURE From sight-seeing to roaring down the Río Grande, we’ve got all your adventure needs covered.

199

CALENDAR OF EVENTS Clockwise: Old Martina’s bar, photo by Tina Larkin. A crescent moon and Venus hang in the sky looking southwest toward the Pedernal, photo by Gak Stonn; and a kayaker on the Río Grande, photo by Steven Bundy.

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

TAOS NEWS STAFF Robin Martin, owner

Chris Baker, publisher

VIETNAM VETERANS MEMORIAL STATE PARK

FOOD AND BEVERAGE

ACEQUIAS

66 AROUND THE ENCHANTED CIRCLE

Stories and information about the communities that comprise our region:

154

TAOS PUEBLO

156

ARROYO SECO

160

TAOS SKI VALLEY

164

ANGEL FIRE

170

EAGLE NEST

172

RED RIVER

176

QUESTA

180

SIPAPU

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Steven Bundy Robert Groos Chris McLennan Jim O’Donnell Geraint Smith Gak Stonn

50 YEARS OF THE RÍO GRANDE GORGE BRIDGE

104

SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS CATHOLIC CHURCH

Joan Livingston, editor Chris Wood, advertising manager Andy Jones, special sections editor Michelle M. Gutierrez, lead editorial designer Jennifer Taphorn, production manager

116

Katharine Egli, staff photographer

144

J.R. Logan, reporter

BALLOONING OVER (AND IN) THE GORGE OJO CALIENTE MINERAL SPRINGS AND RESORT

145

ORILLA VERDE RECREATION AREA

186

VALLE VIDAL UNIT OF THE CARSON NATIONAL FOREST

Cody Hooks, reporter

Andrew Oxford, reporter Gabriel Weinstein, reporter Luckie Daniels, discovertaos.com digital design manager

Connect with us! DiscoverTaos.com

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Red River

Questa Tres Piedras

Arroyo Hondo

TAOS

Taos Ski Valley Arroyo Seco Taos Pueblo

Angel Fire

Ranchos de Taos Ojo Caliente

Pilar Main Route to Taos

Picuris Pueblo Peñasco

Velarde

Chimayó

High Road to Taos Mora

Española Los Alamos

Eagle Nest

Pojoaque 0

M I L E S

SANTA FE Las Vegas

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Experience Taos

ARTS & CULTURE I t’s no secret that Taos has a rich and diverse history as a place where culture and artistic endeavors flourish. Whether it be visual art, music, literary arts, film or something a bit different, Taos has a lot to offer those who enjoy the creative process or seeing it in action. And with a rich heritage that begins with Taos Pueblo, Taos is absolutely flush with culture. With as many high-quality museums as most cities, and quirky characters all around, Taos is as interesting as a small town can be. That’s why we tried to capture

the artistic and cultural spirit with a series of articles that touch on our various artistic traditions. We take you to Lama to visit the D.H. Lawrence Ranch (page 38) and we celebrate the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Artists (page 46). We step more directly into the modern age with the film locations of Taos (page 42) and a story about the next generation of Taos artists (page 58). Of course, Taos is also a great music town, and we’ve got a full summer schedule of events for you on page 74. While you’re at these events, you might notice some

policemen on bicycles: we even tell you what that’s all about on page 70.

And of course, you’re gonna need to get around from gallery to museum and venue to event, so we’ve collected some of the most useful shortcuts for bypassing trouble spots (page 64).

By Joan Livingston

If you don’t fully buy into Taos’ reputation as a world-class arts destination, just stick around a few more days. Let the experience sink in and let the light remind you why you’re here. — Andy Jones, special sections editor

D.H. LAWRENCE RANCH

A CINEMATIC LANDSCAPE

By Andrew Oxford

ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF LIGHT By Yvonne Pesquera

THE MANY AND VARIED MUSEUMS OF TAOS

TAOS ARTISTS: THE NEXT GENERATION By Yvonne Pesquera

TAKING THE BACKROADS By Mel A. James

COPS ON BIKES

By Yvonne Pesquera

2015 MUSIC FESTIVALS & CONCERTS

Rodrigo y Gabriela will be playing at this year’s Taos Solar Music Festival, photo by Jim Mimna/ Courtesy Big.Hassle Media

36 36

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Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

ARTS & CULTURE

D.H. LAWRENCE RANCH

A literary landmark BY JOAN LIVINGSTON

Courtesy D.H. Lawrence Ranch Alliance

A buffalo mural, originally by Taos Pueblo artist Trinidad Archuleta adorns the west side of the Lawrence cabin at the D.H. Lawrence Ranch. Archuleta was the nephew of Tony Luhan, and as such, Luhan’s grand-nephew, Mark Luhan spearheaded efforts to restore the mural.

or fans of the author D.H. Lawrence, a visit to his ranch in San Cristóbal is a must-do activity.

D.H. and Frieda Lawrence first came to New Mexico in 1922 at the invitation of Mabel Dodge Luhan, a noted patron of the arts who settled in Taos. The Lawrences stayed three times for a total of 11 months. On the second trip, Luhan gifted them the ranch. In return they gave her the manuscript of “Sons and Lovers.” The 160-acre property, also known as the Kiowa Ranch, has two modest cabins made of Ponderosa pine logs cut in the 1880s and adobe plaster. The Lawrences lived in one, and their friend, Lady Dorothy Brett, in the other.

A chapel-like building serves as D.H. Lawrence’s memorial. The story goes Frieda mixed his ashes with concrete to create the altar inside. Frieda’s grave is located outside. Then, there is the tall pine tree beneath which Lawrence wrote in long hand. Artist Georgia O'Keeffe immortalized the pine in her painting, “The Lawrence Tree.”

who died in 1930. The ranch was closed for several years. But thanks to the efforts of the Taos Community Foundation and the D.H. Lawrence Ranch Alliance, the ranch was reopened in 2014 after repairs were made to its historic buildings.

Lawrence wrote a short novel, “St. Mawr,” at the ranch, plus a biblical drama, “David” and parts of “The Plumed Serpent.”

Recent visitors to the ranch include Joanna Terry, a descendant of Frieda who lives in England. She was welcomed at a reception, fittingly at the Mabel Dodge Luhan House in Taos.

Frieda, who died in 1955, gave the ranch to the University of New Mexico to be used "for educational, cultural and recreational purposes" and to serve as a memorial for her husband,

Sharon Oard Warner, a University of New Mexico professor who is the university liaison for the ranch, said Terry’s visit was “a mark of the enthusiasm and love we all have for the ranch.” Continues on page 40

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Courtesy D.H. Lawrence Ranch Alliance

The interior of the Lawrence Memorial Chapel. Continued from page 38

he ranch was expected to open fulltime in May. Visit dhlawrencetaos.org for a schedule and events.

GETTING THERE: To reach the ranch from Taos, take State Road 522 North toward San Cristóbal. Look for signs for San Cristóbal Road and the D.H. Lawrence Ranch. The last leg is 7 miles on a good dirt forest service road. Bear right at each branch until the end. Watch out for cows.

A CHAPEL-LIKE BUILDING SERVES AS D.H. LAWRENCE’S MEMORIAL. THE STORY GOES FRIEDA MIXED HIS ASHES WITH CONCRETE TO CREATE THE ALTAR INSIDE. FRIEDA’S GRAVE IS LOCATED OUTSIDE.

OTHER LATE, GREAT AUTHORS WITH A TAOS CONNECTION PADRE ANTONIO JOSÉ MARTÍNEZ, was a priest, educator, publisher, rancher, farmer, community leader, and politician. He appears as a character in author Willa Cather's “Death Comes for the Archbishop.” SPUD JOHNSON was a poet and the editor of the Laughing Horse magazine and The Horse Fly, a one-page newspaper. MABEL DODGE LUHAN was a grand dame of the arts, drawing many on this list to Los Gallos, her Taos home. She wrote several books including “Edge of Taos Desert: An Escape to Reality.” ELIZABETH SHEPLEY SERGEANT was a World War I correspondent, author and biographer; she wrote about Taos Pueblo and New Mexico. ROBINSON JEFFERS, a poet, visited in summers during the 1930s at Luhan’s invitation. THOMAS WOLFE, a novelist whose works include “Look Homeward Angel,” arrived in 1935 at Luhan’s invitation but as the story goes, she refused to see him because he was too drunk. THORNTON WILDER, who won the Pulitzer for drama and literature, also visited Luhan.

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

WILLA CATHA, an author who won the Pulitzer Prize, was a frequent visitor to Los Gallos. ALDOUS HUXLEY, another Luhan guest, wrote “Ends and Means” while in Taos. MYRON BRINIG, a Taos resident, was a prolific novelist who wrote about the hardships of miners and labor activists in his native Montana. VLADIMIR NABOKOV, the Russian author of “Lolita,” spent a disappointing summer in 1954 with his family in Taos. FRANK WATERS, who lived in Arroyo Seco, wrote novels and historical works about the Southwest such as “Book of the Hopi” and “The Man Who Killed the Deer.” EDWARD ABBEY, author, environmentalist and political anarchist, wrote “Desert Solitaire” and “The Monkey Wrench Gang.” While in Taos, he worked as a newspaper reporter and bartender. JUDSON CREWS was a poet, bookseller, editor and small-press publisher who published the works of fellow poets. JAMES DOSS, a mystery writer, was known for his many novels about the fictional Ute detective/rancher Charlie Moon. TONY HILLERMAN was an author of detective novels and non-fiction. A former editor of The Santa Fe New Mexican, he captured Taos with his short story “The Great Taos Bank Robbery.”

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

ARTS & CULTURE

A CINEMATIC LANDSCAPE

Memorable film scene locations dot Northern New Mexico BY ANDREW OXFORD

he landscape of Taos can seem holy at times.

Woody Harrelson acknowledges as much in the 1994 film “Natural Born Killers” when his character, Mickey, proposes marriage to Mallory (Juliette Lewis), his partner in a killing spree that turns the duo into a media sensation. “Where are we going to get married?” Mallory asks after they toss remnants of their traumatic childhoods off the Río Grande Gorge Bridge. “Here,” Harrelson says. “This is our church.” What was a church to Mickey and Mallory has also been the scene of a car chase in the post-apocalyptic future depicted in “Terminator Salvation” (2009) and is not far from the desert landscapes of “All the Pretty Horses” (2000). While Taos is certainly different things to different people, the same is true for filmmakers. The diverse landscapes are what have made this an attractive place for producers, according to Don Gray, contract locations coordinator for the New Mexico Film Office. “Most of the scripts that get made here are not set in New Mexico,” he says. But when talking to filmmakers about where to shoot scenes set in Afghanistan without actually traveling to Central Asia, Gray pitches New Mexico’s high desert as an option. And the Río Grande Gorge outside Taos can easily substitute for Arizona’s Grand Canyon, he says. When the producers of “Seraphim Falls” (2006) asked where they could find snow in New Mexico, Gray offered up Taos Ski Valley. “This is a great example of something Taos has going for it,” Gray says. Starring Liam Neeson and Pierce Brosnan, the film centers on a manhunt sprawling across 19th century Nevada.

Rick Romancito

“Terminator Salvation” filming on the Río Grande Gorge Bridge.

Kid” (1979) starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford, “Valley of the Sun” (1942) starring Lucille Ball and James Craig as well as “The Man from Laramie” (1955) starring James Stewart were shot in Taos. And “Easy Rider” (1969) has become synonymous with Taos. Starring Dennis Hopper, Jack Nicholson and Peter Fonda, the film made use of a pointedly unglamorous setting — the old county jail. Recent sci-fi flicks have made use of the local landscape, too.

“It’s this journey from the highest point to the lowest point,” he says.

Portions of “Paul” (2011) and “The Signal” (2014) were shot at the Río Grande Gorge Bridge.

While the movie covers a lot of ground, filmmakers did not have to go too far in shooting it.

And at least one scene from “Batman vs. Superman” was shot atop Kachina Peak in Dec. 2014.

Taos, of course, has played a role in more than one classic Western. Scenes from “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

So what keeps the film crews coming back? Gray says Taos has a few things to its

advantage. The state’s film industry hub is in Albuquerque and while producers see each mile their crews must travel from the city in terms of dollars and cents, Taos at least has the infrastructure to host productions. There are hotel rooms for crews to sleep in and restaurants where they can dine. But there’s more than those basics, Gray says. “Film companies want to source things locally,” he notes, explaining antique stores and art galleries are often sought to provide set dressing. Meanwhile, crews might also require heavy machinery like backhoes and amenities like portable bathrooms. No, these concerns are not glamorous but as long as Taos can deliver, it will continue to find itself in the proverbial limelight. Of course, a beautiful landscape and great light doesn’t hurt either.

Summer/Fall 2014 /// discovertaos.com

TA O S I N P I C T U R E S

DISCOVER

DISCOVER NORTHERN NEW MEXICO CULTURE — ACEQUIAS

Geraint Smith

hen Spanish colonists settled in what is present-day New Mexico, they brought with them a system of irrigation known as the acequia. These engineered canals employ gravity to move water through these earthen aqueducts in order to water crops and livestock. While acequias were common in Texas, Colorado, Arizona and California as well, only the acequias of New Mexico still function pretty much as they have for centuries, with mayordomos and parciantes in control of the governance of the ditches. Without the acequia, Spanish colonization would have been a much more difficult task and modern-day agriculture would be very different as well.

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Photographer Geraint Smith says, “Just a few steps off the highway in El Prado, and practically running under one’s feet, this irrigation ditch always makes me smile. When I stop and take in this scene, I feel the breeze on my face, hear the running water and my senses begin to glow. The acequia feels akin to the blood in my veins as it carries the life-giving water to the lands in the Taos Valley.”

FACTS: • The acequia is such an important feature in our region that the idea of starting a Museum of the Acequia was recently proposed. To offer support for this effort, visit taosacequias.org • The are 75 independent acequias, laterals and carrier ditches that are members of the Taos Valley Acequia Association. • The Taos Valley is one of three sites for New Mexico State University’s acequia multi-disciplinary research project funded the National Science Foundation.

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ARTS & CULTURE

ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF LIGHT

2015 marks the centennial founding of the Taos Society of Artists

BY YVONNE PESQUERA

Courtesy Couse Foundation

The newly formed Taos Society of Artists on the porch at the home of Eanger Irving Couse in 1915. From left, Bert G. Phillips, W.H. “Buck” Dunton, Joseph H. Sharp, O.E. Berninghaus, Couse and Ernest L. Blumenschein.

or the longest time, Taos was a remote mountain outpost, home to Taos Pueblo and a hardy bunch of Hispano settlers. The only other adventurous folks who gravitated here included Army scouts like Kit Carson and fur trappers like Frenchman Ceran St. Vrain. Most of the businesses on Taos Plaza sold firearms, pelt blankets, leather ware, and miner’s tools. Art was always part of the traditions of the residents of the Taos Valley, but beginning in the early part of the 20th Century, there was a shift

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

from an economy based on mining, hunting and agriculture to something that also included the art galleries, boutiques, museums, and artist studios that dot the region today. In the summer of 1915, six artists joined together to form the Taos Society of Artists: Oscar Edmund Berninghaus, Ernest Leonard Blumenschein, Eanger Irving Couse, William Herbert Dunton, Bert Geer Phillips, and Joseph Henry Sharp. The Society organized its paintings to travel to

the buyers in major cities such as Boston, Chicago, New York, and San Francisco. By deliberately combining their individual efforts for the common good, they were the founding fathers of the Taos arts colony that is a big part of our reputation to the outside world. But how did these artists even find Taos in the first place? At the turn of the last century, it was a harrowing one- to two-day journey through the canyon from Santa Fe –– and that was in the good weather.

west as St. Louis. When that group disbanded in 1914, it gave Phillips a model for organizing Taos artists. He willingly took on the role of founder of the Taos arts colony, encouraging others to come to Taos and tirelessly promoting the idea.

Courtesy Taos Historic Museums

Bert Phillips and Ernest Blumenschein talk next to a different wagon wheel years after their early adventure helped establish the reputation of Taos as and art colony.

Robert R. White edited the authoritative history of the group in the text, “The Taos Society of Artists.” He writes, “In 1898, Blumenschein and Phillips were traveling through the mountains about 20 miles north of Taos. Their wagon slid into a deep rut and the left rear wheel collapsed. “Taking the broken wheel to Taos for repair, Blumenschein and Phillips arrived in Taos together. The delay caused by the broken wheel had given both of them time to look at the country and to decide that Taos was as far as they wanted to go.” The duo talked about gathering artists in Taos “like the group of Barbizon painters and writers,” referring to the early 19th century French arts colony. But Blumenschein actually returned to New York after a few months. The Taos Society of Artists and the resulting art colony came into being through the sweat, grit, and perseverance of Phillips.

Phillips absolutely loved the light and colors of the Southwest. He could’ve stayed painting all day –– except he needed to earn a living. He was as wildly resourceful as he was deeply creative. He was, in fact, the first U.S. Forest Ranger of the Carson National Forest (in the Taos Ski Valley area). And he worked a mining claim, likely in the Twining copper mining area of Taos Ski Valley. Rather than distract him from painting, these pursuits enriched Phillips’ approach to his artwork and strengthened his zeal that other painters should come to Taos and join him. He, Blumenschein (who had returned), and Sharp (who had visited Taos on an earlier occasion) invited other artists to Taos. These were contemporaries from the Art Student League of New York and Académie Julian in Paris. Phillips had been elected to the Society of Western artists, which at time, only stretched as far

Some members were self-taught, whereas others were highly educated. Regardless of their backgrounds, they were now painters of the Southwest. They used bold brushstrokes of sumptuous paint, capturing the famous “Taos light” that warmly glows at this high altitude. They approached their paintings with thick representations of architectural elements and traditional dress, using rich, warm colors to convey a sense of peacefulness. The Taos Society of Artists lasted from 19151927. White points to the fact that they had chartered, held meetings, and kept secretarial minutes which tells of their dreams and aspirations. All told, there would eventually be 21 members of the Society in the active, associate, and honorary categories. But the core group of six gentlemen settled in Taos and lived here long after the Society was just a memory. Their work and their influence is still with us.

NEED MORE ART? Visit The Taos News Gallery Guide at discovertoas.com.

Summer/Fall Summer/Fall 2015 2015 /// /// discovertaos.com discovertaos.com

47 47

TA O S I N P I C T U R E S

EXPLORE

A F I T T I N G T R I B U T E — V I E T N A M V E T E R A N S M E M O R I A L S TAT E PA R K

FACTS: • 10 adjacent acres to the park have been selected as a rural veteran’s cemetary. The land was donated by two Vietnam veterans. • The park sits on 30 acres in the beautiful Moreno Valley, in between Angel Fire and Eagle Nest.

Steven Bundy

beautiful and respectful memorial was established in 1968 by Victor and Jeanne Westphall to honor their son, Lt. David Westphall, who was killed in the Vietnam War that same year. When it was opened in 1971, it was one of the first memorials of its kind in the United States dedicated to Vietnam veterans. “The park provides a memorial to veterans and a Visitors Center that serves as a place for reunion, reflection, healing and sharing of experiences,” according to vietnamveteransmemorial.org, the website for the David Westphall Veterans Foundation.

Photographer Steven Bundy says, “Each time I walk through the gardens of the memorial property, I am struck by the tranquil beauty of the setting; as well as the powerful feeling of peaceful serenity that surrounds me. I can’t help remembering family members and friends who gave their lives in this controversial war. It is a powerful and beautiful place to visit.”

• In addition to the Chapel and the Visitors Center, the State Park grounds also features the Veterans Memorial Walkway, which includes bricks commemorating veterans, with dates of service and name included. New bricks are added every September when volunteers from Run for the Wall Reunion devote an entire Saturday to the project. For more interesting facts, visit vietnamveteransmemorial.org

Connect with us! DiscoverTaos.com

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Explore the Heritage of the American Southwest

MRM

MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM 4 MILES NORTH OF TAOS PLAZA 1504 Millicent Rogers Road

Summer/Fall 2014 /// discovertaos.com

www.millicentrogers.org

575-758-2462

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE...

Scott Messick

PAINTINGS JEWELRY

Aspen Gallery

SCULPTURE

TAOS Jeanne Halsey

575-751-3260

ST PLAZA #4

FURNITURE POTTERY

TAOS. N.M. 87571

www.aspengallerytaos.com

ART GLASS Karen Ahlgren

TINWORK 575-751-3260 115 E Plaza #D Taos NM 87571

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

ARTS & CULTURE

THE MANY AND VARIED MUSEUMS OF TAOS THE MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM 1504 Millicent Rogers Road Open daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Twenty separate galleries showcasing the heritage of the Southwest, including jewelry, paintings, and pottery — such as the family collection of Maria Martinez. $10 per adult; $8 for seniors; $6 for military (active or veteran); $6 for students (16-21 with ID); $2 per child (6-16); free admission for children under 6; free admission for Taos County residents; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available. (575) 758-2462 • millicentrogers.org THE E.L. BLUMENSCHEIN HOME AND MUSEUM 222 Ledoux Street Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., noon-5 p.m. Maintained as when artist Ernest L. Blumenschein — an original member of the Taos Society of Artists — and his family lived there. $8 for adults; $4 per child (5-15); free admission for children under 5; free admission for Taos County residents on Sundays; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available.

Steven Bundy

The Kit Carson Home and Museum on Kit Carson Road in Taos.

(575) 758-0505 • taoshistoricmuseums.org HACIENDA DE LOS MARTINEZ 708 Hacienda Way Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., noon-5 p.m. A fortress-like trading post on the National Register of Historic Places that gives a glimpse of the rugged frontier life; constructed in 1804 by Severino Martinez. $8 for adults; $4 per child (5-15); free admission for children under 5; free admission for Taos County residents on Sundays; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available. (575) 758-1000 • taoshistoricmuseums.org THE HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART 238 Ledoux Street Open Tue.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sun., noon-5 p.m. Showcases a permanent collection of more than 4,700 works of art and an archive of 17,000 photographs from the 19th century onward. $10 per adult; 8$ for seniors; $8 per student; free admission to youth (18 and under); free

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admission to UNM students and faculty; free admission to members of the Harwood Museum of Art Alliance; free admission to Taos County residents on Sundays. (575) 758-9826 • harwoodmuseum.org GOVERNOR BENT HOUSE AND MUSEUM 117 Bent Street Visit for hours and admission fees The home of the state’s first American governor — a highly respected trapper, trader and mountain man. KIT CARSON HOME AND MUSEUM 113 Kit Carson Road Open daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Taos’s oldest museum, the home of Kit Carson, frontiersman, trapper, soldier, and scout. $7 per adult; $6 for seniors and tour groups of eight or more people; $5 for teens and students; free to children under 12; free to Kit Carson Home and Museum members; free to Taos County residents every Sunday; free to active military personnel; and free to Masonic

members. (575) 758-4945 • kitcarsonhomeandmuseum.org TAOS ART MUSEUM AT FECHIN HOUSE 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte Open Tue.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. The home studio of artist Nicolai Ivanovich Fechin, showcasing a blend of Russian and Southwestern artworks. $10 per adult; $9 for seniors; $6 per student; $8 per person in groups of 10 or more; free admission to children under 12; free admission on Sundays for Taos County residents (575) 758-2690 • taosartmuseum.org THE COUSE HOUSE 146 Kit Carson Road The home and studio of 20th century artist Eanger Irving Couse and his family. Appointments may be made for tours of the house. Call (575) 751-0369 to arrange a visit • couse-sharp.org

Make O Keeffe part of your New Mexico experience

Georgia O’Keeffe, Black Mesa Landscape, New Mexico / Out Back of Marie’s II, 1930. Oil on canvas, 241/4 x 361/4 in. Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Gift of The Burnett Foundation. © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.

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Summer/Fall 2014 /// discovertaos.com

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Summer/Fall 2014 /// discovertaos.com

ARTS & CULTURE

TAOS ARTISTS: THE NEXT GENERATION

Innovative artists building ever higher on 100-year anniversary of Taos Society of Artists BY YVONNE PESQUERA

Tina Larkin

Artisan welder Christina Sporrong, shown here in 2011 working on a section of her interactive sculpture, Caged Pulse Jets, which was featured in the innaugural The Paseo art vent last fall.

aos has a deeply rich arts history, which stretches back millennia with the Taos Pueblo Indians and other early Native residents and Spanish settlers, but this year, Taos is celebrating the 100-year anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Artists. In 1915, six artists organized to make art in Taos and sell it to far-reaching markets in Boston, Chicago, New York and San Francisco. In a sense, they were trailblazers for undertaking this sort of marketing and commercial outreach beyond the Southwest.

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Today, the next generation of Taos artists continues bringing Taos to the world –– and the world to Taos. Take, for example, Matt Thomas. He's an artist, architect, urban planner and entrepreneur. As if that weren’t enough to keep him busy, Thomas is also the driving force behind innovative projects such as Pecha Kucha Taos, a community showcase for local creators and innovators, and The Paseo, an outdoor arts exposition of large-scale art installations that coincides with the Taos Fall Arts Festival.

In some ways, Thomas’ effort is reminiscent of Bert Phillips, who was the organizing force behind the Taos Society of Artists (19151927). When asked about this similarity to an artist-organizer from the last century, Thomas is honored and humbled by the comparison. And with trademark laser-focus, Thomas offers a reply. “Taos was put on the map both from the inspiring community already here and the constant migration of visitors. We need to remember that as we move into the next 100 years,” he says.

e points out that exciting creative and innovative energy continues to exist in Taos. Across the county, there are other artists creating visions and inviting others to join in outlets of creative expressions. Over the High Road in beautiful Peñasco, the Peñasco Theatre Collective has been a constant source of artistic feats in Northern New Mexico. Rebekah Tarín, a visual artist, educator, and critical thinker working with the Peñasco Theatre since 2003, says, “Art saves lives. It gives meaning to madness and universalizes the human experience.” Alessandra Ogren is a co-founder and former co-artistic director of Wise Fool New Mexico. She says, “We think the Taos Society of Artists would have loved to come to the Peñasco Theatre –– full of acrobats, poets, activists and trapeze artists!” When the Taos Society of Artists was founded in 1915, “art” meant painting. Today, individual artists have evolved art to mean so much more. Christina Sporrong is a welder, artist and performer whose large-scale metal sculptures are evidence of boundless imagination. “By the time I was working in the arts and even through art school, I had access to sculpture as a medium, electronics, computers as well as painting and drawing,” she says. “The tools artists use is a reflection of the access they have to the world they live in.” Sporrong is currently collaborating with other artists to create a makerspace, called The Toolbox, in downtown Taos. The Toolbox will be a shared space for creators, innovators, and makers to tinker on ideas and bring them to fruition. Out on the mesa, 93.5 KNCE True Taos Radio is an independent, locally owned, communitysupported radio station. “We’re an FM radio station operating out of a 1978 Airstream Excella behind Taos Mesa Brewing,” says co-founder John Henderson.

Rick Romancito

The big red robot, by artist Christian Ristow, become the focal point of the inaugural The Paseo outdoor art event last fall.

He notes that art certainly has evolved in the last 100 years and a medium such as radio can be another valuable art form in a small, diverse community like Taos. “True Taos Radio is certainly our own artist colony, but our canvas is the airwaves,” says Henderson. Continues on page 62

NEED MORE ART? Visit The Taos News’ Gallery Guide at discovertoas.com.

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Since 1982 in Taos

Featuring the works of Taos Pueblo Artists

LEFT TO RIGHT: BERNADETTE TRACK, JOHN SUAZO, DAWNING POLLEN SHORTY, ANGIE YAZZIE, CASSANDRA & MICHAEL DUKEPOO, JOE GOMEZ, “POB CALLE” MARY ARCHULETA, “TSEMÉ” ANTONIA LUJAN, GLENN GOMEZ, RODNEY CONCHA, NED ARCHULETA

121 KIT CARSON ROAD • TAOS, NEW MEXICO • 575-758-9407 • BRYANSGALLERY.COM

See where the Taos art colony began.

100 years ago six artists met and the Taos Society of Artists was born. The group’s paintings introduced the country to the American West and its native cultures. The mark they made on the art world transformed Taos forever. Come stand where they stood. Tour the studios of E.I. Couse and J.H. Sharp. Join in the celebration of this vital legacy. Discover this rich history by attending the events surrounding 100 Year Anniversary of the Taos Society of Artists. For More Information on Events: couse-sharp.org Visit: 146 Kit Carson Road, Taos, New Mexico Book a Free Tour: 575-751-0369

Advertising partially paid for by Taos County Lodgers Tax.

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

AN ENDURING APPEAL: THE TAOS SOCIETY OF ARTISTS An exhibition of paintings and works on paper by members of the Taos Society of Artists MAY 16 SEPTEMBER 7, 2015 Oscar E. Berninghaus, Little Joe, 1941, oil on canvas, courtesy of private collection An Enduring Appeal:The Taos Society of Artists is presented with support from Michael and Rebecca Jusbasche, Gary and Barbara DeVane, and other supporters.

238 Ledoux Street in Taos (just off the plaza) 575.758.9826 â&#x20AC;˘ www.harwoodmuseum.org

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Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

ARTS & CULTURE

TAKING THE BACKROADS

The shortcuts of Taos

BY MEL A. JAMES

he roads in Taos are less of a grid than most places and more of a spaghetti bowl. This unique configuration can make getting around difficult, especially if you’re new to town or just visiting. The biggest string of traffic is along our main thoroughfare, Paseo del Pueblo Sur (Paseo del Pueblo Norte north of the Plaza). It will take you all the way through town on a pretty direct line, but that means it’s also the busiest path. If you want to avoid the stop-and-go of bumper-to-bumper traffic and see a lesser-known side of Taos, then read on for some alternate routes to get you where you’re going. The most popular shortcut is one that will take you around the backside of Taos Plaza via Camino de la Placita. But with its multiple stop signs, crosswalks and popularity, it’s not much

better than the main road. Other relief routes around town involve Gusdorf Road and Salazar Road, both of which run parallel to Paseo much of the way through town. These are good for short trips between businesses. But if you plan on taking any left turns back onto Paseo del Pueblo, make sure your side street return ends in a stoplight or you could wait a long time to make that turn. Another road that’s good for getting from one end to the other is Camino del Medio, which reaches from State Road 240 to Lower Ranchitos Road, but it’s definitely a bumpy ride, with numerous speed bumps along the way. Other routes include multiple twists and turns worthy of a suspenseful spy novel. But let’s walk through them. If you happen to miss a turn, it’s probably best to go back the way you came and try again. You’d be surprised where a random

turn could take you. Let’s say you’re in Ranchos de Taos (south of Taos) and you’re heading for points northwest and you want to skip town altogether — take State Road 240, by the Ranchos post office, and drive 2.35 miles until you reach the stop sign, where you’ll turn right onto Lower Ranchitos Road. Drive .38 miles and take a left turn onto Blueberry Hill Road; another five miles will get you to U.S. 64, just west of the “Old Blinking Light,” which is not a blinking light anymore (it’s a stoplight, confused yet?). However, the Blinking Light is still the local vernacular referring to the intersection of U.S. 64, State Road 522 and State Road 150. From here you can head west to the Río Grande Gorge bridge, northwest to Questa, or north to Arroyo Seco and Taos Ski Valley. Continues on page 68

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TA O S I N P I C T U R E S

EXPERIENCE N O R T H E R N N E W M E X I C O H I S T O R Y — T H E TA O S G O R G E B R I D G E ’ S 50TH ANNIVERSARY

Steven Bundy

t’s not the world’s tallest or longest bridge. But the view is incomparable. And if you visit, its purpose has at least partly been served. The Río Grande Gorge Bridge, its construction completed 50 years ago, was pushed largely as a means of boosting tourism throughout Northern New Mexico. Gov. Jack Campbell, it has been suggested, was elected largely on a campaign pledge to build the bridge and complete U.S. 64. The dream was to open up El Norte as an outdoorsman’s paradise and vacation destination for a motoring public eager to explore the American West. U.S. 64 may not be synonymous with “road trip” in the same way as Route 66 or the Pacific Coast Highway but the bridge and gorge below have become a must-see for visitors to New Mexico, even if they don’t drive any further west than the rest stop.

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Photographer Steven Bundy says, “The east view from the Gorge Bridge overlook presents visitors and photographers alike with a scene of the beautiful Sangre de Cristo Mountains that rise over 6,000 feet above the top rim of a 600-foot deep river created gash in the earth. A similar scene anywhere else in the world would be hard to find. First-time visitors are always awestruck with the grandeur.”

FACTS: Days before the bridge opened, The Taos News published a story on “Bridge Figures: Things Not Seen.” It noted the following about the bridge: • 600 feet elevation above the Río Grande • 1,280 feet in length, approximately a quarter mile • The bridge is technically a “threespan steel continous-deck truss structure with a concrete-filled steel-grid deck”

Connect with us! DiscoverTaos.com

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Continued from page 64

f you’re in Ranchos, but your destination is in El Prado (north end of Taos), then follow the above directions until Blueberry Hill, but instead of turning, stay on Lower Ranchitos for two miles, where you will turn left onto Upper Ranchitos. Use caution on this turn; the oncoming traffic is coming toward you on a sharp curve. Drive another 1.6 miles and take a right at the stop sign. From here it’s only .4 miles until you reach Paseo del Pueblo Norte, just north of Cid’s Food Market. Want to end your route downtown? Then stay on Lower Ranchitos, which will lead you directly to Camino de la Placita which, the reader may recall, runs right behind the Plaza. Another way to get to the heart of town without as much traffic would be to take State Road 585, also called the bypass (also Paseo del Cañon East), which is meant to transport folks heading northeast out of town. From State Road 68/Paseo del Pueblo Sur, drive 2.2 miles, where this road ends in a “T” at U.S. 64. Take a right to head to Angel Fire or go left and find yourself on historic Kit Carson Road. Another 2.4 miles and you’re at Taos Plaza. This route isn’t really a shortcut; as a matter of fact, it’s rather a wide berth, but it does take you around the occasional traffic melee. Some say there really are no shortcuts in

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

Katharine Egli

Camino de La Placita, which wraps around the back side of Taos Plaza, provides an alternative route for travelers hoping to avoid the sometimes congested main thoroughfare of Paseo del Pueblo Sur and Paseo del Pueblo Norte.

Taos. More accurately, one could refer to them as avoidance routes, or evasion courses. When taking backroads, you could encounter more potholes, loose cows or horses, or even perhaps some folks stopped in the middle of the road just to chat. And especially for these reasons, you should follow the posted speed limits.

These detours allow you to see other views of Taos and affords more photo opportunities for the shutterbug. It might even slow you down, but that’s the Taos way of life. And if you get lost, put down the GPS (notoriously unreliable in these parts) and ask a local.

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

ARTS & CULTURE

COPS ON BIKES

Pedaling on patrol, Taos police officers connect with summer crowds in Historic District BY YVONNE PESQUERA

Tina Larkin

Officer Henry Sánchez on his trusty bike and officer Jim Black in the background.

uring the school year, Henry Sánchez is the resource officer for the Taos Municipal District. But once school lets out, Sánchez dons a different kind of police uniform –– bike shorts. Sánchez is the designated bike patrol officer for the Taos Police Department. However, he is not the only bike patroller. Others hop on their police bikes on an as-needed basis for special events –– of which there are a lot during the summer. But Sánchez is the daily officer. He patrols the Taos Historic District, which is a one-mile radius,

and gives a lot of focus to Historic Taos Plaza. “I have been doing this for six years. Once school lets out, I do it everyday until the second week in August when school starts,” Sánchez says. In addition to his daily patrol, Sánchez is assigned for all special events, whether that means late nights or early mornings. For example, he patrols until 8 p.m. on Thursday nights for the Taos Plaza Live free outdoor concerts. And for the Taos Farmers Market, Sánchez starts his patrol at 6 a.m. on Saturday mornings.

The Taos Police Department provides Sánchez with a highly visible official police uniform that includes bike shorts, as well as bike shoes, bike helmet, and bike gloves. His bike is a Specialized Hard Rock that has been specially outfitted with lights and a siren on the handlebar. In his saddlebag, he keeps stickers (for kids), tickets, and a note pad and pen. “I’ve had to use the lights and siren. For the Fiestas parade, there was a fight. The lights and siren were pretty effective in getting through the crowd,” he says. Continues on page 72

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Tina Larkin

Officer Henry Sánchez and officer Jim Black on patrol in Taos’ Historic District. Continued from page 70

on bikes.

hat Sánchez loves most about the job is the interaction with people. He says residents and visitors just love seeing cops

“Police officers are more approachable on bikes than they are sitting in their car with the window rolled up,” he says. “I have met so many awesome people.” For example, last year he met a couple from Australia. They invited Sánchez to go mountain biking on his day off. They headed up to Taos Ski Valley’s 2 ½-mile advanced mountain bike flow trail, “The Berminator.” A side benefit to the job is that Sánchez gets lots of fresh air and exercise. “But don’t get me wrong, the days are really hot. It can be like 93 degrees out and I am wearing a full uniform with bulletproof vest,” says Sánchez. While cycling around town, his belt alone weighs 15 to 20 pounds with weapon, flashlight, and handcuffs. The bike patrol officers are on the same radio frequency as the vehicle patrols. One time during a Taos Plaza Live concert, a call came in that a little girl was missing. Taos Plaza

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Live typically draws a large crowd of families, residents, and visitors. “I am so mobile and quick on the bike. I spotted her in no time. She had just gotten separated from her family,” Sánchez says. Sánchez, who grew up in Taos, credits local businesses with keeping him in good shape to do his job. Gearing Up and Taos Cyclery are the two local bike shops that help out with service and repairs. And he takes a spin class at the Northside Fitness Center. “That class keeps me in shape during the winter,” he says. Being a bike patrol officer requires a lot more than just having a bike. Sánchez took the Law Enforcement Bicycle Association certification course in Farmington. The one-week course included a written exam and plenty of physically demanding tests. The course teaches officers how to efficiently dismount their bike in case they need to tackle someone; different techniques on how to ride through big crowds; and how to use the bike as a tool. Joining officers from other New Mexico counties, the course instructor led Sánchez on rides through the streets and parks, and on

“POLICE OFFICERS ARE MORE APPROACHABLE ON BIKES THAN THEY ARE SITTING IN THEIR CAR WITH THE WINDOW ROLLED UP,” HE SAYS. “I HAVE MET SO MANY AWESOME PEOPLE.” — OFFICER HENRY SANCHEZ

mountain trails. The officers had to demonstrate their proficiency in climbing and descending stairs, rocks, and hills. All told, they rode 25 to 35 miles a day during the certification course. Even obstacle courses were set up in the parking lot. The participants were challenged to come to a stop sign without having to put their feet down. “There was a lot of balancing and technique. I’m glad I took it. Now I show the other guys,” says Sánchez.

THE TAOS NEWS Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

ARTS & CULTURE

2015 MUSIC FESTIVALS & CONCERTS May 28 – Sept. 3

Taos Plaza Live Every Thursday night (6-8pm), all summer long. The Taos County Chamber of Commerce brings the best of Taos' musicians to the Taos Plaza stage. Free and kid- friendly, for full concert schedule, visit taoschamber.com or call (575) 751-8800

May 29 – 31

Music on the Mesa Come to Taos Mesa Brewing the last weekend in May for Music on the Mesa, a three-day music festival featuring some of the biggest names in Americana music, including Justin Townes Earle, Turnpike Troubadours and Jamestown Revival, to name a few. For tickets and more information, visit taosmusiconthemesa.com.

June 4 – 27

Taos Opera Institute Festival Taos Opera Institute takes some of the most distinguished faculty A and up-and-coming young Night on professionals from around the country to teach and the Town learn at Taos Ski Valley. The Taos area has a number of A series of operatic restaurants, bars and dance venues and classical music that feature live music. Check Tempo concerts will take place magazine in The Taos News for a weekly in a variety of venues calendar of events, available in print or throughout Northern online at taosnews.com/calendar. New Mexico. For a full For a list of popular schedule of events, visit venues check out taosoi.org or call discovertaos.com. (575) 740-6431

June 13

River & Brews Blues Festival Red River hosts its sixth annual River & Brews Blues Fest, courtesy of the Red River Chamber of Commerce. Bring your blankets and lawn chairs and enjoy the tunes at the bottom of the slopes of Red River Ski Area. Visit redriver.org or call (575) 754-2366

June 21 – Aug. 9

Taos School of Music The 53rd season of Taos School of Music will include a full slate of concerts and seminars, featuring Borromeo String Quartet, Robert McDonald and Michael Tree, the Brentano String Quartet and Thomas Sauer. Young Artist concerts will be held throughout the summer at the Taos Community Auditorium and the Hotel St. Bernard. For season details and ticket information, visit taosschoolofmusic.com

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June 27 – 28

Taos Solar Music Festival The Taos Solar Music Festival is back in Kit Carson Park this year for a full weekend of music, including John Butler Trio, Kongos, Rixton, The Wallflowers and Rodrigo y Gabriela. For tickets and information, visit solarmusicfest.com.

Aug. 21 – Sept. 6

Music from Angel Fire Music from Angel Fire returns for its 32nd summer festival, with the theme of “Made in America.” The festival celebrates American composers and music, as well as international composers that were inspired by the United States or wrote special works while living here. David Ludwig is the 2015 composer-in-residence and Alyssa Weinberg is the Young Artist composer-in-residence. Visit musicfromangelfire. org or call (575) 377-3233

Tina Larkin

Fans enjoy a previous year’s Taos Solar Music Festival.

Sept. 10 – 12 Michael Hearne's Big Barn Dance Hearne's 13th event moves into town! With construction at Taos Ski Valley, the Big Barn Dance will call Kit Carson Park in the town of Taos home this year. A full lineup has yet to be announced, but should be available later in the summer at michaelhearne.com/bigbarndance. Past years have included some of the most respected names in traditional country, Americana, and folk music.

Sept. 25 – 27 Music on the Rocks Visit Sipapu for an all-day event featuring the 40th annual Arts and Crafts Fair, and music from local and regional acts. Enjoy the beer garden, artists booths and food and beverage vendors. For more information, visit sipapunm. com.

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

taste

breakfast burritos

THE STAR OF EVERY NEW MEXICO MORNING

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

By J.R. Logan

n Taos, the breakfast burrito is without a doubt the universal breakfast of champions. Burritos start with a base of eggs and a tortilla, but the sky is the limit when it comes to combinations of meat, cheese, chile and other fixin’s. Here’s a quick list of must-try breakfast burritos, from the fast-and-no-frills, to a heavy weight behemoth that might knock you out before your day even begins.

Taos Diner’s two pound burrito, “The Charles”, smothered in both red and green chile, photo by Katharine Egli.

TAOS DINER The Charles $9.95 (shown) This big boy weighed in at almost two pounds (seriously, I took a scale) and is not for the faint of stomach. A massive flour tortilla embraces eggs, home fries, pinto beans, bacon and cheddar-jack cheese, then it’s smothered in red or green chile and topped with cheddar-jack and feta cheeses, and diced tomatoes. Believe it or not, the feta cheese is what sends this baby into orbit. The tangy bite of the cheese combined with the chile (I highly recommend going Christmas — red and green — on this one) is heavenly. taosdiner.com MARY JANE’S HOME COOKING Chorizo breakfast burrito with red chile $5 This stand-alone trailer at 616 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (across from the Whitten Inn) is a local’s favorite and consistently picked as Taos’ best roadside food stand. For good reason. Mary Jane’s whips up fast, quality fare at a reasonable price. While it’s impossible to go wrong on the Mary Jane’s menu, the chorizo breakfast burrito offers a heaping helping of chorizo (minced, seasoned sausage) swimming with plenty of gooey cheese. Red chile is a must. (575) 770-1171 MICHAEL’S KITCHEN Breakfast Enchiladas $9.55 Ok, so technically this isn’t a burrito. But the breakfast enchiladas are novel enough that they’re worth a mention on this list. Michael’s enjoys a loyal following of visitors and Taoseños alike — just check out the line spilling on to the sidewalk at 304 Paseo del Pueblo Norte on any given summer Sunday. Michaels’ corn tortilla enchiladas are filled with eggs, smothered in chile and served with pinto beans. By going the enchilada route, Michael’s managed to pair corn tortillas with eggs and chile. The result is heavenly. michaelskitchen.com MANTE’S CHOW CART Bacon breakfast burrito with green chile $5.79 At one time an actual chow cart, Mante’s is now housed in a real building at 402 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. It’s a locally owned joint dishing up fast food standards with plenty of New Mexican specialties. One thing sets the Mante’s breakfast burrito apart from the rest — the crunch. Mante’s folds in a crispy layer of hash brown-like potatoes that adds a special oomph to this one. Mante’s is always fast, and the drive-though is especially handy if you’re in a hurry. (575) 758-3632 BLAKE’S LOTABURGER Lota Breakfast Burrito $3.75 It might be the cheapest option on our list, but New Mexico fast food joint Blake’s Lotaburger whips up a respectable breakfast burrito. With one location on the north side and another on the south, Lotaburger is a good choice if you’re digging for quarters under your front seat but can’t get the thought of a hot, spicy burrito out of your head. Lotaburger offers all the standard meat and chile options. At this price, why not experiment and get a couple for the road? northside (575) 758-4987; southside (575) 758-4771

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TREAT YOURSELF TO THE FINEST

EXQUISITE STEAKS, FRESH SEAFOOD, HAND-CRAFTED COCKTAILS

OPEN DAILY 11:30 AM - 9:00 PM . 575.751.3020 146 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE . MARTYRS-STEAKHOUSE.COM LUNCH . DINNER . SUNDAY BRUNCH . PRIVATE PARTIES Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

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Continued from page 82

ESKE’S BREW PUB AND EATERY 106 DesGeorges Lane In the heart of downtown Taos but away from the hustle and bustle, the picnic tables on Eske’s patio are a great place to spend an evening. Eske’s brews its own beer (including one made with green chile) and serves lunch and dinner with a menu that includes plenty of pub favorites as well as a couple surprises. The beer-battered club sandwich is a solid choice, but if you’re looking for something truly down home, head over on a Sunday night for the Blue Plate Special, when Eske's staff offers traditional meals like Southwestern meatloaf or southern fried chicken. eskesbrewpub.com

THE BURGER STAND AT TAOS ALE HOUSE 401 Paseo del Pueblo Norte When the Kansas-based Burger Stand teamed up with Taos Ale House, it brought bar food options in the center of town to a new level. The Ale House has several “small batch” brews on tap, and the kitchen offers a variety of specialty burgers, dogs, salads and more. The menu’s got a little something for everyone, but if you want to share a few brews and have a quick snack, order a basket of bourbon bacon cheddar fries — a heaping serving of fresh fries smothered in bourbon cheese sauce and sprinkled with applewood smoked bacon. taosburgersandbeer.com

THE ANACONDA BAR 317 Kit Carson Road Looking for something a little more sophisticated? The Anaconda Bar at El Monte Sagrado offers fancy cocktails and an impressive bar menu that aims to satisfy a more discerning palate. If you’re going for appetizers, get the Spanish charcuterie and cheese plate — a blend of fine Spanish cheeses and exquisite hams that might be the closest thing you’ll find to authentic tapas in Taos. If you’re going for a meal, it’s hard to beat the grilled trout tacos served with a cilantro sauce, avocado creme fraiche, black beans and poblano slaw. elmontesagrado.com/ dining/lounge

mmm... A buger and fries pairs well with a beer at The Alley Cantina, photo by Tina Larkin.

OTHER GREAT HAUNTS FOR DRINKS & EATS: ABE’S CANTINA Get a shot of tequila and have a homemade burrito with the locals. Downtown Arroyo Seco. • (575) 776-8643 ADOBE BAR AT THE HISTORIC TAOS INN The “living room of Taos,” with famous Cowboy Buddha margaritas and giant plates of nachos. 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte • taosinn.com KTAOS SOLAR BAR Enjoy the kid-friendly back yard with great views and good brews (and a full bar), and a full menu of tasty treats and entrees. 9 State Road 150 • ktaos.com KYOTE CLUB Join chef Ky Quintanilla and company for adventurous drinks and classy small-bite options like parmesan polenta fries and semolina crusted calamari. 330A Paseo del Pueblo Sur • kyoteclub.com THE GORGE BAR & GRILL Enjoy tasty cocktails and a nice beer selection with causal dining on the patio overlooking Taos Plaza. 103 East Plaza • thegorgebarandgrill.com THE TREEHOUSE BAR & LOUNGE AT LAMBERT’S Come to the Treehouse for 2:30-5:30 p.m. happy hour and a full bar menu. 123 Bent Street • lambertsoftaos.com 5 STAR BURGERS A great happy hour for food and beer and quality burgers all the time. 1032 Paseo del Pueblo Sur • 5starburgers.com

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M I X O L O G Y • F O O D • TA PA S • E N T E R TA I N M E N T • L I V E M U S I C

TAOS'

HOT NEW SPOT

818 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE #C, TAOS • 7AM-3PM CLOSED SUNDAYS

330A PASEO DEL PUEBLO SUR | TAOS, NEW MEXICO | (575) 751-3302

kyoteclub.com

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taste FOOD TRUCK/ CART RUNDOWN

food trucks

A few tips as you explore what our food stands have to offer: Not all of them offer credit card services, so bring cash and make it a breakfast or lunch stop, since most of them close in the evening.

OF TAOS By Mel A. James

A La Cart’s “Kraut Dog” and “Chicago Dog,” photo by Tina Larkin.

TAOS CHICHARRON BURRITO New Mexican Specialty: Chicharron burrito, what else? 1300 block of Paseo Sur, west side of road TAQUERIA EL TORITO Mexican Suggestion: Carnitas torta Valerio Plaza, 1800 block of Paseo Sur, east side of road MARY JANE’S HOME COOKING New Mexican Bragging rights: Best of Taos winner, 9 years running 600 block of Paseo Sur, west side of road LIZZY’S New Mexican Tradition: This family has been feeding Taos for generations Super Save parking lot, 500 block of Paseo, east side of road A LA CART World Street Food Unique: A variety of flavors from around the world 600 block of Paseo Norte, north side of the road

ood trucks are enjoying a surge of popularity in big cities, with events that draw thousands of people and world-class chefs getting fancy with gourmet offerings. You’ll see trucks that serve a downtown office building at lunch and then that same truck serving bar patrons at night. The food truck style in Taos is a bit different, but this town isn’t the kind to follow trends anyway. What you find here tends to be more traditional, with families passing down recipes. There’s also a Do-It-Yourself aesthetic that provides a way for an up-and-coming business to test the waters. Trucks here tend to also be more stationary. You won’t find them zipping around town — what you’ll find instead are

mini restaurants in sheds or in carts on wheels. The only difference is that you order at a counter and you eat outside (or take it to go). Frequently these outdoor seating areas will have a charming atmosphere, with fencing, picnic tables and shady umbrellas. The key to eating good food when traveling is to eat where the locals eat. And a lot of locals in the Taos area eat at food trucks. You’ll find Taoseños grabbing a breakfast burrito at one end of town and a Frito pie for lunch at the other. One of the appeals is that the price is right and so are the portions. Want to get an idea of how popular a particular truck can be? Then ask nearly anyone who’s lived here longer than 10 years about the Burrito Wagon and they are likely to reply in a wistful

tone about how much they loved the #7 or maybe the #3, whatever happened to be their favorite. The Burrito Wagon may be gone, but other favorite trucks have gone on to become popular stand-alone restaurants — Mante’s Chow Cart, El Gamal and Leonel’s all started as humble food trucks. The majority of the food trucks in Taos feature Northern New Mexico cooking. Yes, there is a difference between Mexican and New Mexican food, with the main distinction being the use of the ever-revered chile pepper and cheese, on everything. Definitely try our local vittles, but don’t limit your choices to just New Mexican, as there are other enticing flavors to be had, so be adventurous.

ELMA’S Mexican & American Surprising: The humble exterior belies terrific cooking 1200 block of Paseo Norte, in El Prado FRESHIES JUICES Fresh juice blends Taos Plaza GREAT NOODLES Asian/Thai John Dunn House Shops HOT DOG LADY American Taos Plaza or John Dunn House shops

Photos on opposite page, clockwise from top left: Great Noodles! owner Marshall Thompson at the grill, photo by Tina Larkin; Customers wait for orders at Taqueria El Torito, photo by Tina Larkin; Mary Jane’s Home Cooking, photo by Katharine Egli; Street food from A La Cart, photo by Tina Larkin; Freshie’s Juices prepares for the Taos Farmers Market crowd, photo by Tina Larkin; Made to order tacos from Taqueria El Torito, photo by Tina Larkin.

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taste land of enchanted food

THE FARMERS MARKETS OF TAOS

By Cody Hooks

efore 2010, Johanna and Chris Lee operated a little store-front post office in Clovis, New Mexico, not but 10 miles west of the Texas state line. Chris also ran a screen printing shop making T-shirts and cards, but he finally got fed up with the harsh chemicals of that trade. And the harsh chemicals of commercial food. Now, the couple and their two kids work the land at Llanobilly Ranch, their four-yearold vegetable and animal farm in the Peñasco Valley. “I was feeling kind of disconcerted from our food and these skills it takes to survive off the land. Farming just seems like the most honest

thing I’ve ever done,” says Chris Lee. With Jicarita Mountain and the Truchas Peaks just right outside the door, their growing flock of laying hens move about over eight acres worth of pasture in a chicken-tractor. And one and a half acres is devoted solely to growing vegetables that, come May, the Lees will sell at the Taos Farmers Market. For a community as small as Taos, the farmers market is one of the most vibrant in the state. “There’s something about the variety and the quality of food vendors are bringing,” Lee said. Every Saturday morning, Taos’ historic Plaza

fills up with over 70 farmers and hundreds of customers, locals and visitors alike. Aside from being one of the biggest markets in New Mexico in revenue going directly to farmers, Lee said it has an energy all its own because everyone has something different to offer. Growing at 8,300 feet on Llanobilly Ranch, the Lees can bring snap peas and spinach in the heat of summer, while growers from south of the Río Grande Gorge drive up to Taos with bushels of fruit and chiles. But the farmers market isn’t just a place to get your food. It’s a place to find community and a shared passion of growing humbly off the land. Continues on page 94

Llanobilly Ranch foremen Johanna and Chris Lee with their daughter Cora on his shoulders, right, walk with ranch hands Almo and Navssikaa Who holding their son Owdin, left, on a "harvest day" last summer, photo by Tina Larkin.

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Continued from page 92

“I

t’s fun to be able to talk about gardening, to talk about different varieties of food and what does well,” he said. When the carrots are crisp and beautiful, people want to know how to get their own garden to do as well. And when bugs descend on crops around the county, they ask the Lees how to handle it. “There’s so much generosity,” he said. As for Llanobilly Farm, now in it’s fifth season, the Lees are still learning as they go. A few pigs were farm residents for a while, until they stopped “listening to the fencing.” And Chris Lee is still working microbial life back into the soil from the first overzealous tilling they did several years ago.

TAOS FARMERS MARKET While the Saturday morning Taos Farmers Market is surely the biggest in the area, it’s definitely not unique. Taos has farmers markets up and down the county, almost every day of the week — so

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your farm-to-table experience. BACK PORCH FARMERS MARKET The Back Porch Farmers Market happens on the back portal of the Taos Food Co-op, just off Paseo del Pueblo Norte, north of the Plaza. And it’s about as casual as its name. Locals who grow more food than their family can eat and put up come to this market to share their bounty at an affordable price. TAOS FARM STAND MARKET Farmers from around the county can’t sell everything they grow all at one market — sometimes those carrots, beets, cabbages and peas are ready to harvest in the middle of the week. That’s Mother Nature for you. Food at the Farm Stand Market is sold on consignment to make healthy, organic food available for the masses. THE HONDO MARKET The Hondo Market is a gem in the small community of Arroyo Hondo (about 10 miles north of

town) where many families still have small gardens and pastures fed with acequia water. The standard fare of vegetables and goat cheese are almost always available, as well as the occasional treat like smoked trout. RED WILLOW FARMERS MARKET Youth are the focus at the Red Willow Farmers Market located at Taos Pueblo. Through internship and entrepreneurial programs, young people grow, care for and harvest all the food raised on the tribe’s ancestral land. Plus, a farm store boasts bison meats, locally made soaps and all sorts of pickles and put-up veggies, as well as blue corn meal for tortillas. You can find Chris and Johanna Lee at the Taos Farmers Market starting the second week of May. Stop by, say hi and see what bounty they’re growing in the northern llanos of the Land of Enchantment.

MARKET REPORTS FARMERS MARKET Saturdays, 8 a.m. - 1 p.m. Historic Taos Plaza, Taos May 9 to October taosfarmersmarket.org

BACK PORCH FARMERS MARKET Tuesdays and Thursdays, 2 - 6 p.m., June to October 314 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Suite E, Taos TAOS FARM STAND MARKET Tuesdays and Thursdays, 2 - 7 p.m., (summer) Call (575) 758-8731 to confirm 1021 Salazar Road, Taos THE HONDO MARKET Wednesdays, Parking lot at Midtown Lounge, 680 State Road 522, Arroyo Hondo Late May to October RED WILLOW FARMERS MARKET Wednesday, 10 am. - 5 p.m. 885 Star Road, Taos Pueblo Year-round Want more? Check out The Taos News’ Green Taos publication at discovertoas.com

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Taos the

UPSCALE ELECTRONIC CIGARETTE STORE PREMIUM JUICE BAR

featuring

ALL MAJOR BRANDS of E-CIGARETTES PREMIUM E-LIQUIDS TANKS, RBA’s, CARTOS & CUSTOM BUILT COILS AUTHENTIC MODS & ACCESSORIES TOP QUALITY GLASS PRODUCTS

575.751.7074 facebook.com/vapetaos Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

LODGING

TWO SMALL INNS CHANNEL THE TRUE SPIRIT OF TAOS

BY TERESA DOVALPAGE

Courtesy of Richard Spera

A cozy deck at Casa Gallina.

CASA GALLINA: RUSTIC CHARM MEETS COMFORT

hen guests arrive at Casa Gallina for a stay in one of its five cozy casitas, they can expect to be welcomed by a bottle of wine and a tray of ham, cheese, olives and other hors-d'oeuvres prepared by proprietor Richard Spera, who has created a charming nest for the visitors. Casa Gallina is an “artisan inn,” which offers Fair Trade-certified products like coffee, soaps and chocolates. The kitchen is stocked with USDA certified organic ingredients and local products, and the grounds are often watered by

a nearby acequia. The property is only a five-minute drive to Taos Plaza. All the casitas boast splendid views of Taos Mountain. They are decorated with art, antiques, and furnishings by local artists — a few pieces are also available for sale. They all have a fully equipped kitchen and a Kiva fireplace or wood burning stove. “Each casita has a wireless laptop computer, high-speed WiFi, satellite TV, DVD player, and a music and speaker system,” said Spera. “This is indeed a pastoral setting but you’ll still be connected to the world.”

Guests are encouraged to pick from the herb and vegetable gardens — carrot, celery, spinach and many other fresh veggies will be available this summer. There are strawberry and raspberry patches and two apple orchards. LAS GALLINAS DE LA CASA — THE HENS OF THE HOUSE The “girls” (the hens that lend its name to the property) inhabit an ample chicken coop in the yard. They provide eggs every morning —in exchange, they are happy to feast on scraps offered by the guests. “Leftovers from the restaurants are their favorites,” Spera said. Continues on page 102

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Because we know you want to live here.

An idyllic Getaway full of Romance & Charm Situated in the heart of the Historic District and nestled in a quiet Avenue with peace and privacy, this charming Bed and Breakfast is the perfect place to escape to and relax after exploring Taos Plaza, countless galleries and local Museums peppered throughout the downtown area.

Over 500 properties can be found at www.enchantedhomesller.com

309 Juanita Lane

Taos

800.645.4803 or 575.758.8164 laposadadetaos.com

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LA POSADA DE TAOS BED & BREAKFAST... A PLACE LIKE NO OTHER! La Posada de Taos is a historic adobe inn just two blocks from the Taos Plaza. As the first B&B in Taos, La Posada is unique among the town’s small Inns. The home has stayed true to its roots as a Pueblo-style Hacienda. The six guest rooms are each decorated in a style true to Taos & original artwork adorns the walls throughout the home. 309 Juanita Lane, Taos 800-645-4803 www.laposadadetaos.com

DREAMCATCHER BED & BREAKFAST

Our Taos Bed and Breakfast Inn sits nestled in a serene, wooded area just a 10 minute walk from Historic Taos Plaza which is the center of our lovely town. Feast on our European breakfasts. Adventures await you in every season. 416 La Lomita Rd. • 575-758-0613 • dreambb.com. E US’ S IN TH IC INN T N A ROM MOST DAY TOP 10 USA TO E H T F ‘ONE O

ADOBE & PINES INN HISTORIC BED & BREAKFAST

Fireplaces • Whirlpools • Three Course Breakfast • Spa Services Private Hot Tubs • Entrances • Baths ‘12 Award of Excellence –TripAdvisor “Best of Southwest”–BedandBreakfast.com 575-751-0947 • 855-828-7872 • www.adobepines.com 100

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HACIENDA DEL SOL

Taos Mountain is our backyard. Eleven beautifully appointed rooms and suites with spacious gardens backing onto Taos Pueblo. Outdoor hot tub. www.taoshaciendadelsol.com 575-758-0287 • 866-333-4459

CASA BENAVIDES

Luxury downtown Historic Inn 3/4 block from Plaza. Fireplaces, AC, wireless internet in lobby, extensive art collection, patios, balconies, hot tubs, heated jet tubs, KILLER BREAKFAST and lovely afternoon tea & desserts. Voted Best B&B in Taos 2014 137 Kit Carson Rd. • 800-552-1772 • www.taos-casabenavides.com

A B&B STAY IS THE BEST WAY TO EXPERIENCE TAOS

Choose from 16 outstanding Bed & Breakfast inns, each providing an authentic New Mexican charm ranging from rustic to artistically inspired. Find the perfect place from which to discover Taos. www.taosbandbinns.com

TAOS ASSOCIATION OF BED AND BREAKFAST INNS

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Courtesy Heritage Hotels & Resorts/Jeff Caven Resort Hotel Photography

The Socialite Suite I, named for Millicent Rogers, at Palacio de Marquesa. Continued from page 98

he flock started with just six chickens and keeps getting larger each spring. There are now more than 30 happy and healthy hens in addition to Big Daddy, an Araucana / Rhode Island red rooster.

las Chimeneas, is just an easy walk from Taos Plaza.

THE STUDIO — A COMMUNAL SPACE Spera recently opened a studio at Casa Gallina, a stunningly beautiful space with a hardwood floor. It can hold between 10 and 20 people.

Each one of its eight rooms has a unique identity. They were named after famous women artists who once lived in Northern New Mexico — Martha Reed, Georgia O’Keeffe, Gene Kloss, Mabel Dodge Lujan, Agnes Martin, Dorothy Brett, and Millicent Rogers, who has two rooms dedicated in her honor — the Socialite Suites I and II.

“We had been having more gatherings and retreats here so I realized that I needed a communal space to do group work in,” Spera said. “Every week we use it for tango classes and yoga sessions. It also makes Casa Gallina a great destination to host small workshops or retreats.”

The iconic ladies became the inspiration for interior designer Adriana Long, who, while keeping the inn’s Southwestern charm and original New Mexico art, also added contemporary touches like walk-in marble showers, heated floors, and flat screen TVs to every room.

He will be hosting yoga, meditation and women retreats, as well as tango workshops. In the meantime, complimentary yoga classes are offered to all the Casa Gallina guests, courtesy of the house and Shree Yoga Studio.

“We offer our guests the best of two worlds,” said Palacio de Marquesa resident general manager Chad Ozment. “We also have a beautifully landscaped high-desert garden, with trees, fountains and plenty of places to sit and relax.”

Casa Gallina is located at 609/613 Callejon (575) 758-2306; casagallina.net PALACIO DE MARQUESA — A HOMAGE TO REMARKABLE WOMEN OF TAOS Palacio de Marquesa, formerly Casa de

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Palacio de Marquesa is a romantic getaway. It was chosen among the 25 best honeymoon resorts under $200 a night by Destination Wedding Magazine. Guests get to enjoy a gourmet, made-to-order breakfast in the community room or delivered to

their room — in a basket. Spa services like Reiki, Swedish and therapeutic massages are available too. In case you are traveling with four-legged companions, Palacio de Marquesa is also a pet-friendly place. LOCAL TREASURES Palacio de Marquesa is in partnership with several local businesses. Through the “Local Treasures” program, guests get a discount coupon card good for 15 percent off many restaurants, like The Gorge restaurant and Martyrs Steakhouse, as well as shops, galleries and other attractions. They also offer a New Mexico resident discount and a number of packages. “Our Museum of Taos Package includes tickets to five museums and allows visitors to explore the town’s rich cultural past,” Ozment said. “For those who love the great outdoors, Lunch with a Llama Wilderness Experience is a must have. The llama carries all the gear and a gourmet lunch is prepared right on the trek. Whatever you decide to do, here at Palacio de Marquesa we will help you create lasting memories of your stay in Taos.” Palacio de Marquesa is located at 405 Cordoba Road. (575) 758-4777 and (855) 846-8267; marquesataos.com

CREATE

PLAY

Locally Owned... Globally Unique

EXPLORE The Historic

JOHN DUNN HOUSE SHOPS 20 friendly shops line a beautiful pedestrian walkway linking Bent Street and the historic Taos Plaza. www.johndunnshops.com

F EO

S OT SP IN 5 P 1 IDS “TOOR K US.” F HE OM T .C D ME

-C

twirl

NW Corner of Taos Plaza. Look for the yellow duck.

(575) 751 1402 twirltaos.org Open daily 10am - 6pm

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TA O S I N P I C T U R E S

EXPERIENCE A L A N D M A R K O F FA I T H — SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS MISSION CHURCH

National Historic Landmark, San Francisco de Asís was built between 1772 and 1816. Each June, church parishioners and Ranchos de Taos residents re-mud the building, preserving its unique and interesting facade. Due to the structure’s blend of Native and Spanish styles, the church is one of the most photographed (and most painted) buildings in the country. The church is also still an active parish in the Santa Fe Diocese and hosts regular Masses and festivals. It is the epicenter of the Ranchos de Taos community and a symbol of Northern New Mexico Catholicism. It is open year-round to visitors.

Photographer Jim O’Donnell says, “San Francisco de Asís mission church in Ranchos de Taos is one of the most iconic places for photography in all of New Mexico. I’ve really enjoyed using it for black and white images as the stark lines offer great contrast. On this particular day I was there doing black and white photographs of the church as a spring storm rolled in. Suddenly, a stream of sunshine broke through and lit up the front of the church and the colors just jumped out in an unavoidable way. I left the black and white shots behind.”

FACTS: • The church’s construction was overseen by the Franciscans and features massive adobe buttresses and two frontfacing bell towers • The original doors of the church were replaced in 1967 with accurate replicas, as well as 60 percent of the vigas and corbels • Famous artists who have painted or photographed the church include Georgia O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams • The back side of the church has been the favorite perspective for the majority of artists

Jim O’Donnell

Connect with us! DiscoverTaos.com

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adventure choose your own

really good vacation should offer some adventure. Of course, what constitutes an adventure is totally up to the participant. It could involve rafting through class IV rapids, or it could be a leisurely stroll looking for good deals on art. For the purposes of this section, we’ll assume an adventure has to be outdoors and involve a little bit of action.

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So, here they are, 13 unique ways to enjoy the great outdoors in the Enchanted Circle. The good news is these aren’t the only kinds of adventures available to a visitor to Taos County. Feel free to mix and match and work in some much-deserved rest and relaxation as well.

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And for the locals, you know that any day of the week can be a great time to take on any of these activities. Choose well my friends. — Andy Jones, special sections editor

enjoy the view:

eight best vistas of taos By Jim O’Donnell

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bag the peak:

tips for climbing the tallest mountain in new mexico By Cindy Brown

take a hike on your land: guided hikes with the BLM By Jim O’Donnell

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ride the rapids:

world-class rafting on the río grande

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catch a trout:

tales from the cimarrón By Wayne Thurber

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saddle up:

enjoying taos by horseback By Teresa Dovalpage

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reach for the stars:

DIY astronomy in taos By Cody Hooks

A guided climber belays down Dead Cholla Wall, on the West Rim of the Gorge. photo by Tina Larkin.

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put on your fat tires:

taos area has bike trails for all levels By Andy Dennison

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climb some rocks:

five popular spots to gain a toehold By Andy Dennison

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hit the links:

golf for all levels of player By Andy Dennison

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get your ‘frolf ’ on: disc golf adventures By Gabriel Weinstein

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get your clicks:

take a photo tour with one of taos’ best

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help save a species:

plant some milkweed to help the troubled monarch By Steve Tapia

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From Pizza to shoes and groceries to clothing for the entire family, you can find it all in one place...

Quilts . 100% Cotton Fabric . Notions Southwestern Prints . Upholstery Fabric

Cruz Alta PlAZA Shopping Center clothing • dining • home furnishings • groceries and more! In one convenient location For Leasing Information call 575-741-0220 1100 Paseo del Pueblo Sur • Taos A&R Medical Albertsons Supermarket Beall’s Department Store Burger King Colonial Finance Jane Compton, Optometrist Domino’s Pizza Family Dollar Illusions Salon

Payless Shoesource Rent-a-Center Star Nails Sun Loan Company Taos Eyewear Taos Herb Co Taos Lifestyle featuring Sleep Santuary Taos Tack Venus Fashion

OPEN: 10:30-5:00 Monday - Saturday Noon - 4pm Sunday

TAOS ADOBE QUILTING PFAFF Sewing Machines 575-751-3219

taostogs@taosnet.com • taosadobequiltingandmore.com 102 Teresina Lane (adjacent to Taos Plaza) • Taos, NM 87571

Enduring

They are homes of distinction. They have stories to tell. They embody permanence, are celebrated in history, yet remain timeless.

Over 500 properties can be found at www.enchantedhomesller.com 108

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village of Questa is La Junta Point, without a doubt one of the more impressive views in the whole state. The jutting volcanic edge hangs above the confluence of the Río Grande and Red Rivers. From here you can also see north to Ute Mountain and on into Colorado as well as west across the wilds of our National Monument. Unlike Lobo, this one is easy. Wild Rivers offers a universally accessible visitor center, picnic areas, drinking fountains and restrooms.

view of the Río Grande Gorge, the valley split by its grandeur, can be a life-changing event.” Close by you can find the 2,600 acre Taos Valley Overlook section of the Río Grande del Norte National Monument. This is a recreation area dedicated to mountain biking, hiking and horseback riding. Every turn offers you another fabulous view of the expansive plateau.

ASH MOUNTAIN IN THE VALLE VIDAL

Too easy you say? Well let’s head back up into the Columbine-Hondo along the Gavilan Trail. The Gavilan Trail is the steepest and fastest route to the ridge connecting New Mexico’s highest peaks. The trailhead sits at the edge of Taos Ski Valley and climbs into a forest of towering pines and spruce. Before long you’ll break into meadows of alpine flowers. “Whether one makes it to the apex of Gavilan Ridge or only a step from the trailhead, the magnificence is astounding,” says Stonn.

A 90-minute drive northeast of Taos will bring you to the Valle Vidal unit of the Carson National Forest. Breathtaking vistas and amazing wildlife abound at literally every turn of the narrow dirt road that winds its way through the area. But right smack in the middle lies Ash Mountain, an uplifted pile of broken shale that opens to 360-degree views from Colorado in the north to the Great Plains and Texas to the east, south where the plains meet the mountains and then to the peaks and mesas west. This isn’t a hard climb but it is time-consuming so plan for a whole day’s adventure.

THE OVERLOOK

KTAOS SOLAR CENTER

GAVILAN RIDGE

About 11 miles south of Taos Plaza is an expansive area known as the Overlook. The best view is a pullout on the side of the road just before the pavement dives into the Horseshoe on the way south. “Northern New Mexico is a place surrounded by incredible views,” says photographer Steve Bundy. “But cresting the last hill to the plateau south of Taos and being greeted with the breathtaking

Ok. Ok. I’ll go easy on you for the last two. Taos is home to the world’s first solar-powered radio station, KTAO. But it is more than a radio station these days. Today, a bar sits just outside the broadcast studio and out back is a grassy patio/ music venue and a view of Taos Mountain that will suck the breath from your lungs. After hiking the other vistas come to KTAO and sit with a beer, a

basket of fries and let the kids roll down the grassy hills while you take in that mountain.

OVERLAND RANCH

Just a mile or two south of the Solar Center is the Overland Sheepskin Company and several other local business including excellent sushi and a farmto-table restaurant. Out back is another incredible view of Taos Mountain and the bulge of El Salto. Stretching across the grassy fields of Taos Pueblo to the base of the sacred mountain, this is the place to be at sunset when the slanted light of the golden hour nicks the tops of the trees and spreads pink across the face of the peak. “No matter the time of year or for that matter, the time of day, the mountain vistas of Pueblo Peak and Wheeler Peak anchored by the ochre colored grasses of the farmlands below is always a favorite place to photograph,” says Bundy. “The view from the Overland is a scene I’ve photographed for many years. Over these years it’s kind of become my ‘Monet Haystack’ series as I document the changing light, seasons and always present El Salto and Taos Mountain,” says photographer Geraint Smith of his favorite spot in Taos. Find Taos photographer Jim O’Donnell at jimodonnellphotography.com. Geraint Smith is at geraintsmith.com. Gak Stonn is at gakstonn. com. Steven Bundy can be found at stevenbundy. blogspot.com.

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TAOS ADVENTURES

bag the peak

Gak Stonn

The plaque at the top of Wheeler Peak lets you know youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve accomplished your goal of climbing the highest peak in New Mexico.

By Cindy Brown

tips for climbing the tallest mountain in New Mexico

he Taos area is home to Wheeler Peak, the tallest mountain in New Mexico at 13,161 feet. To get there requires a long, steep hike, gaining almost 3,000 feet over five miles. It is challenging but the breathtaking views at the top and feeling of accomplishment are worth the effort. Want to summit Wheeler this year? Here is a plan to make it happen: ASSESS: Start by assessing your physical condition. Did you spend the winter skiing at altitude? Then you will need less training to get ready. If you spent the winter on the couch at sea level, consult your health-care provider before beginning to get in shape. PLAN: The best time of year to summit Wheeler is late summer or early fall; this is the narrow window after the snow is mostly melted and before the next season of snow comes, so plan ahead. TRAIN: Start in the spring by taking a few shorter hikes along the lower Ski Valley Road. Yerba Canyon starts at 8,200 feet and follows a beautiful creek. Begin with 30 minutes of uphill. Return a few days later and go farther. Work your way up to Italianos Canyon, which begins

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at 8,600 feet and ends at Lobo Ridge at 11,500 feet; 7.5 miles roundtrip. Next try Gavilan Canyon to Lobo Ridge or Long Canyon to Gold Hill. If you can make it to any of these destinations, you are on your way to being ready for Wheeler Peak. If you will be visiting Taos to hike Wheeler, create a plan that makes use of the hikes where you live. PREPARE: By late summer, you may feel ready to give it a try. Gather up supplies, including rain gear, food and water and sunscreen. Consider wearing lightweight long pants and a hat for sun protection. Watch the weather and look for a sunny day. ASCEND: There are two ways to get to the top: from Bull-of-the-Woods Trail or the Williams Lake side. For the Williams Lake approach, plan on about four hours for the ascent. Local hiking club members recommend that you start early and get off the peak by 1 p.m. to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. The first two miles of trail pass through spruce and fir trees. A gradual climb brings you through a boulder field to Williams Lake. The trail to the peak begins just before reaching the lake. Veer left at the trail sign and continue

uphill through the woods. Soon the trail emerges into an open area above tree line. It follows a series of gradual switchbacks. Ahead, you can see the ridge that connects Mount Walter and Wheeler Peak. Big horn sheep are often seen here. This open area is a good place to notice the weather and monitor yourself for signs of altitude sickness, including headache, fatigue and upset stomach. After reaching the ridge, views open up dramatically to the north and east. Horseshoe and Lost Lakes are visible below. A short rolling section brings you to the peak. There is a plaque and a summit register. Take time to rest, eat and celebrate your accomplishment. DIRECTIONS: From Taos Plaza, go north on Paseo del Pueblo Norte four miles. Turn right at the Ski Valley Road (State Road 150). Take this road through Arroyo Seco. Continue up to Taos Ski Valley, stay left and drive into the upper parking lots. Go up Twining Road and follow the dirt road for two miles; several switchbacks bring you to the parking lot at Deer Lane. Walk down the hill, past the Bavarian and then uphill. Watch for the trail signs.

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TAOS ADVENTURES

Jim O’Donnell

hike on your land guided hikes with the BLM By Jim O’Donnell

Hikers enjoy the trail at Cebolla Mesa, part of the Río Grande del Norte National Monument.

he Bureau of Land Management (BLM) manages hundreds of thousands of acres of public land across Northern New Mexico. Ranging from the Río Chama Wild and Scenic River southwest of Taos to the Sabinoso Wilderness Area east of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains along the Canadian River and from the bottom of the Río Grande Gorge to the tip top of Ute Mountain on the Colorado border the BLM Taos office has a lot of responsibilities. And their main responsibility is to us! The American people. These are our lands. To that end, the BLM offers over 70 guided hikes in our new Río Grande del Norte National Monument every summer. The goal is to familiarize the public with all the magnificent treasures that make up the monument. Beginning the first weekend in May and running through the end of September the hikes offer deeper insights into all aspects of the national monument from geology, wildlife, archaeology, birding, botany and more. The national monument designation encompasses a vast array of ecosystems and a fascinating human history. The difficulties of the various hikes depends on where the BLM will take you. Most hikes are on the weekends, but a few are scheduled during the week. Monument manager

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John Bailey develops the guided hike calendars on a monthly basis so be sure to visit the Monument website (blm.gov/nm/riograndedelnorte) or check The Taos News’ Tempo magazine for the time, date and description of what’s on offer that week. You can also call the Río Grande Gorge Visitor Center at (575) 751-4799 to find out what is coming up.

GAVILAN TRAIL

The BLM isn’t the only federal agency with holdings in Northern New Mexico. The Carson National Forest is operated by the National Forest Service and also offers an amazing amount of hiking opportunities, like the Gavilan Trail in the newly minted Columbine-Hondo Wilderness Area. It isn’t exactly an easy one, but it is well worth your effort. The 2.5-mile Gavilan Trail climbs into the Wilderness Area in the mountains just northeast of Taos near Taos Ski Valley. This is the steepest — and fastest — route to the long ridge connecting the highest peaks in the state through one of the largest remaining roadless areas left in the southern Rocky Mountains. You’ll start off pretty high up. The trailhead leaves from the roadside just before the entrance to the Ski Valley at 9,000 feet in elevation. Immediately you dive into a forest of towering spruce and pine garland in a wide array of alpine wild flowers. Skirting the Gavilan (“Hawk”) Creek you will find the route decorated with asters, wild

raspberry, geraniums and wild strawberry. A small side route will take you to Gavilan Falls. From there the path becomes heart-thumpingly steep. Just when you think you can’t take it anymore you find yourself standing in an open flower filled meadow ensconced in tinkling aspen trees. After lunch and a little nap, make the last climb up to the nearly 12,000 foot ridge where the views stretch from the tallest mountains in New Mexico north into Colorado and west out of the volcanoes of the Taos Plateau. Be prepared for sudden — and sometimes scary — thunderstorms even on the best summer day. Water, food, rain gear and a quick drying fleece sweater are recommended. Be sure to visit the Carson National Forest website for more information: www.fs.usda.gov/ carson

GUIDE TO A MONUMENT

A new 32-page guide for the Río Grande del Norte National Monument is now available through the efforts of MarketTaos, a public-private initiative. Written by Jim O’Donnell (the author of this article as well), the guide book is divided into 11 geographic areas and includes driving directions, travel tips and important sites. The books are available at the Taos Visitor Center, local museums, online at taos.org and the BLM website, blm.gov/nmtaos.

SPARROW PHOTOGRAPHY

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TA O S I N P I C T U R E S

EXPERIENCE H I G H - F L Y I N G A D V E N T U R E — B A L L O O N T R I P S O V E R TA O S

very morning over the Río Grande del Norte National Monument (weather permitting), colorful hot air balloons rise up from and down into the gorge northwest of Taos. During the flight, the balloon quickly ascends into the gorge, allowing passengers views of amazing petroglyphs and wildlife such as big horn sheep and red tail hawks. After touching down on the water (yes, the balloon basket actually dips into the river), the flight heads back up, rising high above the Taos Valley for a view like no other. Following the flight, a traditional champagne toast is served. There are two balloon outfitters in Taos, Eske’s Paradise Balloons (taosballooning.com) and Pueblo Balloon Company (puebloballoon.com). Later in the fall, the last weekend every October, the Taos Mountain Balloon Rally fills the skies with colorful orbs.

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Gak Stonn

Photographer Gak Stonn says, “There are so many majestic views in Northern New Mexico, yet none compare to the serenity of floating safely and slowly over the Río Grande valley in the oldest of aerial contraptions. The vistas from hot air balloon rides are awesome.”

FACTS: • According to Pueblo Balloon Company, passengers should dress like they are going camping in clothes they don’t mind getting dirty and to layer so they can stay comfortable in the colder morning air and as the day warms up • The entire experience, from inflation through champagne, lasts from three-and-a-half to four hours • Balloon trips are available for special occasions, such as weddings, birthdays and anniversaries For more information on balloning visit taosballoonrally.com.

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TAOS ADVENTURES

Steven Bundy

ride the rapids world-class rafting on the Río Grande R

afting and kayaking is possible through a large portion of the Río Grande del Norte National Monument, which follows the river from the Colorado border to the Orilla Verde Recreation Area south of Taos. In fact, it’s probably the single-best way to experience the Monument. There is a lot of variety in the types of floats as well. For instance, the Taos Box features Class IV rapids that will wreck a novice while Orilla Verde offers a much more gentle float. Not too far away, the Río Chama offers another unique rafting experience. No matter where you decide to go, it is strongly recommended that you hire an experienced guide.

TAOS BOX

The Box is the hands-down the most challenging stretch of river in New Mexico, as rafters from all over the world come to test their skills here. Class IV rapids over 16 miles of wilderness, riding The Box is a great experience.

ORILLA VERDE

Beginning at the takeout for The Box, at the Taos Junction Bridge, the Orilla Verde Recreation Area is typically the most mellow float near Taos,

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with nice scenery along the six-mile trek.

THE RACECOURSE

A half-day trip, the Racecourse offers Class III and IV rapids (depending on water levels). Most guides have a minimum age of 6 for this section of the river. The Racecourse can be combined with Orilla Verde for an all-day excursion.

THE CHAMA

Many local outfitters also offer trips on the Río Chama, a less challenging but extremely beautiful stretch of river south of Taos. Talk to your outfitter to determine what trips are best suited to you and your friends and family.

OVERNIGHT TRIPS

Most outfitters offer overnight trips, or even weekend-long trips. Camp riverside with everything provided and enjoy a night’s sky full of stars after a day on the river.

RAFTING COMPANIES

Outfitters are permitted by the Bureau of Land Management: Taos Resource Area. Stringent federal requirements are required in order to obtain a permit. Many of the most professional outfitters belong to the New Mexico River Outfitter Association, raftnewmexico.org.

Rafters on the Río Grande.

CALL AHEAD FOR RESERVATIONS BIG RIVER RAFT TRIPS Pílar (800) 748-3746 • bigriverrafts.com COTTOM’S RÍO GRANDE RAFTING Taos (800) 322-8267 • cottamsriogranderafting.com FAR FLUNG ADVENTURES El Prado (800) 359-2627 • farflung.com KOKOPELLI RIVER ADVENTURES Santa Fe (800) 879-9035 • santafeadventure.com LOS RÍOS RIVER RUNNERS Ranchos de Taos (800) 544-1181 • losriosriverrunners.com NEW MEXICO RIVER ADVENTURES Rinconada (800) 983-7756 • newmexicoriveradventures.com NEW WAVE RAFTING CO. Embudo (800) 984-1444 • newwaverafting.com

New Mexico’s Top River Operator Since 1980

NewWaveRafting.com • 1.800.984.1444

FAR FLUNG ADVENTURES

1-800-359-2627 575-758-2628 RAFTING THE RIO GRANDE AND OTHER GREAT RIVERS OF THE SOUTHWEST SINCE 1976 www.farflung.com

Boots on the Ground

Since 1995

Following in the footsteps of the Civilian Conservation Corps, RMYC continues the legacy of environmental conservation and community service on public lands throughout New Mexico. Support our work: visit www.youthcorps.org 1203 King Drive #3, Taos 575-751-1420 www.youthcorps.org

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TAOS ADVENTURES Steven Bundy

A fly fisherman works his way up Cimarr贸n Creek.

By Wayne Thurber

catch a trout tales from the Cimarr贸n THERE ARE MANY AMAZING FISHERIES AROUND THIS COUNTRY OF OURS. I HAVE FISHED MY SHARE OF THEM, SOME WITH GREAT RESULTS IN TERMS OF CATCHING FISH AND OTHERS WITH JUST A GREAT EXPERIENCE ON THE WATER. Every time I fish further west and north I find that there is little that compares to my home waters of the Cimarr贸n River in New Mexico. The Cimarr贸n River is a tail water off the Eagle Nest Lake Dam. I personally fish and guide this fishery and the river never disappoints. Just east of the Village of Eagle Nest, off U.S. 64 there are eight miles of public water and state campgrounds starting at the top of the canyon at Tolby Creek Campground down to the Village of Ute Park. Continues on page 122

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The Taos News file photo

The Cimarrón River is great for fly fishing and throwing a line in from the bank. Continued from page 120

agle Nest is a great place to buy supplies and trinkets. (Note: A $5 per car parking fee must be paid in order to park in the Cimarrón River Canyon. See Rangers at Tolby Campground or Eagle Nest Lake State Park). My favorite bugs to use on the Cimarrón River are wet flies that include bead head (BH), stone flies in black and golden, caddis pupa in pearl and olive, red Cimarrón special, prince nymph, hares ear, pheasant tail and zebra midge. Dry flies include blue wing olive (BWO), pale morning dun (PMD), trico, caddis, orange, yellow and olive stimulators. Check with the fly shop for current bug size and color and for water conditions. My favorite rod size for this fishery is a mid-flex 7’6”, in 3 or 4 weight up to an 8’6” 5 weight. As far as personal honey holes go on the Cimarrón; I don’t have one. It’s a prolific trout

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fishery so your chances of a good fish day are in your favor. Over the years I have had some pretty amazing experiences on the Cimarrón River. Here’s one that has happened more than once. It’s 6:30 a.m. in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of Northern New Mexico and I am standing on the bank watching and listening to the silence of the river. There’s a cold mist rising from the water, bushes and the trees. Spinning, tumbling, splashing, twisting, surging through the canyon in all her splendor, the Cimarrón River is a watershed alive with brown and rainbow trout. At any moment I can be in the company of elk, mule deer, beaver, eagles, hawks, and osprey. It is one of the best dry-fly fisheries around. I have to pinch myself every time, knowing that I am the first angler on the water; the solitude, the quiet beauty, it’s mine and mine alone. I stand there just breathing and taking it all in. I know at this moment I am the luckiest person on the planet and I don’t even

have a line in the water. As I begin tying on a Trico I see some movement above out of the corner of my eye. My attention is drawn to the top of a nearby dead, but still standing, pine tree. There in all of his fearlessness and confidence a bald eagle is surveying the water and watching me intently. We are now watching and respecting each other. Before I can even throw a bug, the eagle swoops down on the water, turns his head toward me as if to say “fish on” and flies off with the catch of the day. All I could do was smile and appreciate what had just occurred. I love this place. Wayne Thurber is a veteran and retired public servant and is the owner and supervisory guide, Red Cross certified instructor of Dos Amigos Anglers Fly Shop & Guide Service. Dos Amigos Anglers has locations in Taos, Eagle Nest, and Red River. Look for Thurber’s new book “Fly Fishing Without the Attitude.”

discover adventure

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Steven Bundy

saddle up enjoying taos by horseback By Teresa Dovalpage

A group of riders on the trail.

WITH THE ADVENT OF SUMMER COMES A MEMORABLE WAY TO DISCOVER THE MOUNTAINS, PEAKS AND VALLEYS OF TAOS â&#x20AC;&#x201D; HORSEBACK RIDING. From the Sangre de Cristo slopes to the base of the mountain, or down south in the Devisadero trails, there

are a number of places to go horseback riding in the Taos area. The most adventurous can ride to the top of Wheeler Peak, the highest point in New Mexico, while others may be content with a gentle ride in the valley to enjoy the fresh air and the occasional deer. Continues on page 126

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Ride mustangs in the sunny canyon country of the Rio Grande Gorge. • Spectacular Vistas • Historical Trails • Amazing Wildlife • World-Class Geology . . . combine for an unforgettable ride.

SADDLE & PADDLE COMBO TRIP Call Melissa for reservations

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Our base is located 13 mls south of the Taos Visitor’s Center on the east side of NM #68, near the village of Pilar. The area is a crossroad for fishermen, travelers, boaters, artists & outdoor enthusiasts.

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Reservations Required • 575.377.6416 Hwy. 64/434 (1 mile west of blinking light on 64), Angel Fire, NM tours@rtours.com

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TAOS ADVENTURES

Continued from page 124

f you are interested in an area reminiscent of a Wild West environment, Carson National Forest is the place to go, with open meadows, trout streams and plenty of wildlife. “Trail riding out in the forests around Taos provides the opportunity to be out in nature,” says Ruth Bourgeois, executive director of Equine Spirit Sanctuary. “The senses are all invigorated with the sunshine and hearing the birds sing; the incredibly scenic views under blue skies, wild flowers and trees, enhanced with the sweet scent of the pine trees … all this, while sharing the experience with another sentient being — the horse — who does most of the work.” Bourgeois points out that horseback riding can take people to places that other physical exercise simply cannot. “Riding exercises the body and the mind as gently or as vigorously as the rider’s skill and capabilities allow,” she said. “It helps develop body awareness, confidence, balance, posture, strength, endurance, coordination and sensory integration, while learning new skills. Along with all this comes mental satisfaction. And a great feeling of achievement!” The Taos Indian Horse Ranch, Cieneguilla Stables, and Río Grande Stables offer rides by the hour, for beginners and skilled riders, with experienced guides and well-trained horses. At A.A. Taos Ski Valley Wilderness Adventures, Al Johnson, also known as Big Al, has been riding the Taos Mountain trails for more than 30 years. His tours are tailored to riders’ experience level and the desired duration.

HEALING WITH HORSES

For a slightly different experience, you can visit Equine Spirit Sanctuary, a nonprofit that offers a variety of programs for people. ESS is a licensed horse rescue, meaning most equines were either rescues or unwanted by their owners.

GUIDED HORSEBACK RIDES

“Our mission is to bring horses and people together in a healing environment,” says Bourgeois, who is also a PATH, Intl.accredited therapeutic riding instructor with a degree in horse husbandry. “We have a program for special needs children called Horses Helping Kids, which is a combination of equine-assisted learning and therapeutic

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ANGEL FIRE Nancy Burch’s Roadrunner Tours nancyburch.com (575) 377-6416 PÍLAR Cieneguilla Stables (575) 751-2815

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Photo courtesy Stuart Wilde

WILD EARTH LLAMA ADVENTURES Wild Earth Llama Adventures offers singleand multi-day wilderness excursions in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and Río Grande Gorge. On the trail, gentle and surefooted llamas carry the gear, while a naturalist guide shares information about local ecology and natural history. Gourmet meals are prepared and served in scenic wilderness locations. All ages and fitness levels welcome. LlamaAdventures.com • (800) 758-5262

TRAIL RIDING OUT IN THE FORESTS AROUND TAOS PROVIDES THE OPPORTUNITY TO BE OUT IN NATURE, THE SENSES ARE ALL INVIGORATED WITH THE SUNSHINE AND HEARING THE BIRDS SING; THE INCREDIBLY SCENIC VIEWS UNDER BLUE SKIES, WILD FLOWERS AND TREES, ENHANCED WITH THE SWEET SCENT OF THE PINE TREES … ALL THIS, WHILE SHARING THE EXPERIENCE WITH ANOTHER SENTIENT BEING — THE HORSE — WHO DOES MOST OF THE WORK. —RUTH BOURGEOIS, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF EQUINE SPIRIT SANCTUARY

riding.”

program, designed for people of all ages.

Their herd includes horses of all breeds, from a small, sturdy Norwegian Fjord to a huge Hanovarian gelding. They also have three donkeys, several miniature horses and a pony.

“This program includes horse handling and riding, with emphasis on personal growth and life skills, with exercises designed to improve self-confidence and self-esteem,” says Bourgeois. “Participants are taught how to be safe working with horses, how to groom and lead and basic riding skills, combined with breathing and centering and body awareness exercises.”

Equine Spirit Sanctuary hosts various workshops and clinics on training, equine health care, and holistic care, as well as art classes. “We have two open houses every year with free pony rides for the kids and other special events,” Bourgeois says. Visitors and locals can participate in the activities offered by Equine Spirit Sanctuary. Equine Spirit Connections is the newest

RED RIVER Bobcat Pass Wilderness Adventures bobcatpass.com • (575) 754-2769 Red River Stables redriverstables.com • (575) 754-1700 TAOS PUEBLO Taos Indian Horse Ranch (575) 758-3212

To find out more about Equine Spirit Sanctuary visit equinespiritsanctuary.org To find a list of trails in Carson National Forest, visit fs.usda.gov/activity/carson/ recreation/horseriding-camping

TAOS SKI VALLEY A.A. Taos Ski Valley Wilderness Adventures bigaltsv.com • (575) 751-6051 Río Grande Stables lajitasstables.com • (888) 259-8267

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reach for the stars

by Cody Hooks

DIY astronomy in Taos

he night skies in Taos shine brighter than most. Yet not enough people laud them for being one of our most intriguing — if not outright enthralling — natural resources. Everyone has a different reason for watching the stars. Maybe it’s just getting some fresh air on a brisk summer evening. For some, it’s guidance and divination, or the chance to see unidentified and unexplained phenomena. But at the end of the day, the night sky is, quite simply, pretty. That’s the opinion of Geoff Goins, UNM-Taos professor and resident astronomer at Bandelier National Monument, which has a host of astronomy programing throughout the summer and fall. “I like having that deeper understanding of the universe around me,” Goins says. Goins has three pieces of advice for anyone heading out to watch the stars — read up a little before hand, give it some time, and lastly, make a night of it! Knowing what is up there is a good start for your DIY astronomy. But having patience

will pay off tenfold — all good things come in their own time. Goins says that even for major events, like meteor showers, it can take a while for your eyes to adjust to the lightless landscape. So when embarking on night sky adventure, take some food, a few lawn chairs and build a little fire — you never know what you’re going to find.

WHEN

You can get in some stellar star watching just about any night. Remember, the fuller the moon, the less you’ll see. Plan accordingly. And try to avoid clouds and lingering smoke from summer wildfires.

WHERE

Just get away from light. Even one pesky street light can choke out the stars. Taos’ own Río Grande del Norte National Monument follows the Río Grande Gorge from the northern to southern tip of the county. And it has plenty of places to watch the skies. For something closer to town, follow County Road 110 to its terminus (entrance off of State Road 68, south of the town of Taos), which is at an area that Goins calls “astronomy friendly”

— plenty of flat space to set up a telescope or just your chairs. The Wild Rivers Recreation Area (just north of Questa) offers an even more unadulterated glimpse into the heavens, not to mention camping and plenty of day-time spaces to explore. And for those who want something really far out, check out the Valle Vidal — big mountain meadows are as clear as the mesa, and with next to no people. Call the Questa Ranger District of the Forest Service for directions and information about seasonal closures.

WIDGETS

You don’t need anything fancier than enthusiasm and a little free time to delve into the galaxy. But Goins says a good pair of binoculars — the ones you likely have but never think about — will open up whole new worlds. There’s plenty the naked eye just can’t see. And for the more tech-inclined, smartphones and tablets offer a variety of “augmented reality” apps to enhance your DIY astronomy. StarWalk lets you point at anything in the sky — every star, constellation, planet and galaxy — and explore a trove of astronomical details. You can even track satellites in real time.

Chris McLennan

Opposite page, a teepee at the Taos Drum Company, glowing at night south of Taos, with a sky full of stars overhead.

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TAOS ADVENTURES

Geraint Smith

put on your fat tires taos area has bike trails for all levels By Andy Dennison

A biker overlooks the Río Pueblo Gorge and the Orilla Verde Recreation Area (downstream) where the Río Pueblo has its confluence with the Río Grande.

at-tire bikes are all the rage these days, and Taos provides a scenic backdrop for a number of rides — from a super-charged challenge to a leisurely Sunday afternoon pedal — that are sure to satisfy any two-wheeling enthusiasts. All three ski resorts convert trails into downhill, so-called “gravity” trails during the summer that appeal to speed merchants on two-wheelers. Taos Ski Valley has its Berminator Trail from the top of Lift 1, and separately owned Northside at Taos Ski Valley can get riders to 12,000 feet elevation. The Red River Ski Area chairlift runs all summer with bike carriers and maintained trails. Angel Fire Resort has become a mecca for competitive mountain biking. The mountain’s Bike Park hosts world and nationally ranked events in downhill racing — including the USA Cycling Gravity Mountain Bike National Championship. Throughout the summer, both locals and visitors flock to its 100-plus miles of trails.

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Beyond the lift-accessed, pay-to-ride options, the Taos area is home to all manner of mountain bike routes — from flat family rides to serious technical ascents. About 80 percent of the county is public lands, so there are plenty of undisturbed and native pathways. And most trails are within a short drive from downtown. The South Boundary Trail tops all lists. Nationally renowned, the 22-mile single track begins at about 7,000 feet elevation in the opening of Taos Canyon on U.S. 64 east. The first five miles climb 2,400 feet to where the trail crests, setting up about 20 miles of level riding and descent to a parking lot along Forest Road 76 above Angel Fire at about 10,000 feet. There are a couple of cutoffs back to the highway early on the ride, as well as forest roads to Valle Escondido or the Río Chiquito watershed back toward Ranchos de Taos. The trail winds through evergreens, aspens and meadows, with spectacular views both east and west peaking near 11,000 feet at Osha Mountain.

HERE ARE A FEW OTHER PROMINENT RIDES IN THE TAOS AREA:

The West Rim Trail is a relatively flat beginner route that begins at the Río Grande Gorge Bridge and runs about nine miles along the rim of the gorge. It’s mostly a single track that is shared with day hikers and meandering tourists. Paved West Rim Road provides an excellent chance to leave a dropoff-car for your return. Devisadero Loop is located across from the South Boundary trailhead. This five-mile loop is steep with uneven terrain — termed “brutal” by even expert riders. Almost all of its five miles are uphill, so both ascent and descent are gnarly. Look out for hikers since this is one of the most popular walks around Taos. The Amole Canyon trailhead is just on the south side of U.S. Hill on State Road 518. The moderate trail is perfect for families and weekend riders who are looking to get into the forest without getting too serious. There’s seven miles of dirt trails and logging roads through piney woods. Perfect for a Saturday morning warmup.

discover a new journey

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TAOS ADVENTURES

Tina Larkin

A climber on Dead Cholla Wall on the West Rim of the Río Grande Gorge..

By Andy Dennison

climb some rocks five popular spots to gain a toehold I

n the Taos area, the granite of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains meets the basalt of the Taos Plateau and produces a wide variety of rock-climbing options for beginner and expert alike. Rock climbs fall into an establish system of grades of difficulty. Up to 4.10, it’s a scramble without ropes. At 5.0, you need to be clipped into a harness and belayed from top or bottom because, as Jay Foley of Mountain Skills Rock Climbing Adventures in Arroyo Seco says, “if you fall, you could die.” Beginners can handle 5.0 to 5.7; intermediates can scale 5.8s and 5.9s, and the experts take over at 5.10 and above. Beginner and mid-range grades predominate in the Taos area, Foley said, although a few go vertical to 5.12 and above. The Taos area has its fair share of what are called “traditional” climbs — pitches that require more than one 165-foot rope length to get to the top. But it’s the so-called “sport climb,” with fixed bolts and anchors to hook into, that consumes most of the rock time around Taos these days. Here’s a list of five popular spots to gain a

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toehold in around Taos:

UTOPIAN VISTAS (WEST RIM ROAD)

Take the Dead Cholla parking area road in from the south end of the road and then a 10-minute walk to the rim. Area sits above famous Rock Garden rapids of the Río Grande and has more than 100 routes of sport, mixed and traditional varieties in the pocketed basalt on the walls of the Río Grande Gorge. Most climbs in 5.10 and 5.11 range, with nothing less than 5.7.

TRES PIEDRAS

Head west on U.S. 64 past the U.S. 285 intersection to an unmarked road to right just past U.S. Forest Service ranger station. Meaning “three rocks,” Tres Piedras’s granite slabs contain more than 80 routes — slabs, cracks and steep faces — with the majority on the 5.7 to 5.9 range. Bouldering is very popular out here.

COMALES CANYONS

Go over U.S. Hill and head toward Sipapu ski area on State Road 518. The campground is on the right. Some of the hardest rock around heads up off the banks of the Río Pueblo. Several traditional routes and some bolted sport routes await, with plenty in the

5.7 to 5.9 range to complement more difficult climbs.

JOHN DUNN BRIDGE

Take County Road 007 off State Road 522 before Arroyo Hondo, and head to the bridge for one of the most dense yet accessible climbing areas around. Five climbing walls of basalt contain about 30 established routes and nearly every kind of climb imaginable, either along the Río Hondo or Río Grande. The bulk of the routes are in the 5.8-5.10 range, although plenty of 5.11s and 5.12s challenge the most experienced climbers.

QUESTA DOME

Head north from Taos about 22 miles. Just past Questa, take a right turn at “El Rito” sign. Veer right when road turns to dirt and another mile to a “T.” Parking lot up right road. A dozen climbs on the 600-foot granite face. A number of multi-pitch climbs range from 5.10 to 5.12 on the dome itself, with bouldering on granite along the trail to the base of the dome. For more information, go to mountainproject.com/v/taosarea/105868955 or visit Mountain Skills Rock Climbing Adventures at climbingschoolusa. com/taosrock.html.

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TAOS ADVENTURES

Tina Larkin

The homemade yardage markers are all part of the charm at Valle Escondido golf course.

By Andy Dennison

hit the links golf for all levels of player

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nce you get settled into your hotel, B&B or vacation rental — and satisfied your hunger with an enchilada with red or green chile — it may be time to check out the local links.

The Terrace serves drinks, craft beers, snacks and gourmet dishes. Next door is a full-service pro shop, and pros Tad and Carville Bourg provide top-flight instruction.

The high-desert Taos Country Club rolls Bermuda fairways through low sagebrush. Frequent sand traps guard the undulating bent grass greens. The par-72 links-style layout, designed by Jep Wille and open since 1993, makes you use most of your clubs … and requires you to hit ‘em straight.

At Angel Fire Resort, the meeting of mountain and meadow produces 18 holes as varied as anywhere. The bluegrass fairways wind for 6,600 yards through tall stands of ponderosa pine and across rich, wet bottomland. There are plenty of blind and leave-the-driver-in-the-bag shots, and you should bring your Seve Ballesteros ingenuity, too. Elevated tee boxes abound, and the 8,500 feet elevation means clubbing up to adjust distances but slowing down to find more oxygen for sealevel lungs.

The front and back nine are distinctly different. The opening holes head downhill until turning at No. 4 tee to initiate a forced march uphill all the way to No. 7 green — the highest point on the course — before heading back down the clubhouse. The back nine descends to No. 10 green, then climbs back to the “back-back nine,” No. 14 through No. 17. A birdie-friendly finishing hole provides a good reason to come back.

Opened in 1961, the Lebus and Paul Ortizdesigned layout stays in the trees until the turn. The back nine takes in a few more forested holes before emerging into the low meadows. The course crosses the Cieneguilla Creek for the first time on Hole 13, and the meandering stream keeps golfers on their toes for the next four holes. No. 18 climbs back up the hill to the clubhouse, the post-and-beam, stucco home to two eateries,

The area touts a pair of top-notch 18-hole layouts, plus old-school and quirky Valle Escondido.

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bar, pro shop, indoor pool, locker rooms and meeting space. Valle Escondido golf course is a throwback. Owned and operated by the Valle Escondido Homeowners Association, this nine-holer sprawls across mountain pastures and cat-tailed wetlands, and around inconveniently situated ponderosa pines to postage-stamp greens. Fairways tend toward the “natural state,” so clean-and-place is de rigeur. The first three holes stay on top, but the bottom falls out with the par-5 fourth hole. An elevated tee with menacing pines overlooks a bifurcated fairway. After winding through log cabins and mountain homes, the course finishes off with a leg-burning, lung-busting hump up No. 9. (Did I mention, no carts?) The humble clubhouse serves as a community hangout, with cold beer, cocktails and bar food. Looking for something odd? Check out the mid-summer pasture golf classic at Colfax Tavern, aka Cold Beer, New Mexico, east of Cimarron on U.S. 64.

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TAOS ADVENTURES

Gabe Toth

Frisbee golf discs are available at most disc golf courses.

By Gabriel Weinstein

getdiscyour ‘frolf ’ on golf adventures W

ith eight courses within an a hour’s drive of Taos, Northern New Mexico is a great place to learn the fundamentals of disc golf. Disc golfers can choose from a variety of locales from the high-desert brush of Picuris Pueblo to the towering aspens of Red River Ski and Summer Area’s course.

THE BASICS

Disc golf shares many similarities to ball golf in rules and terminology. Like in ball golf, “frolfers” try for the lowest score. Just like traditional golfers, disc golfers use drivers, putters and other different discs for mid-range shots. If you’ve never played disc golf before, take your time and consider taking a lesson, says Bill Leslie, owner of Two Gray Hares Disc Golf Course in Vadito. He recommends first-time players start out on the shorter tees and keep things simple with their throwing motions. “Don’t do any run-ups,” Leslie says. “Stand there, reach back and throw. Don’t care how far it goes. Just throw.” Like golf clubs, different discs have different functions. A “driver” is thinner and meant to be thrown at high speeds. “[A driver] wants to go fast and will curve right away,” says Tomas “Mossy

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Moss” Sedillo, a professional disc golfer in Red River. Because drivers are difficult to control, Leslie recommends shying away from them at first. Putters are fatter and easier to throw straight. But like a club golf, disc golf putting can be vexing. Sedillo recommends learning how to put with a driver before transitioning to the standard putter. For first-time frolfers playing at high elevation Sedillo recommends using a lighter Frisbee to get more distance.

WHERE TO PLAY

Now that you’ve learned the basics, you’re ready to hit the course. Two good places to start out are the 18-hole Taos Roc Pit and 9-hole Mallette Park Disc Golf Course in Red River. Both are close to town centers and are perfect if you want to sneak in a quick round or work on your fundamentals. The Roc Pit is on Salazar Road and is accessed by taking Chamisa Road. If you’re looking to play your game up in the mountains, you have plenty of options. Taos Ski Valley, Red River Ski and Summer Area, Sipau Ski and Summer Resort and Angel Fire Resort all have disc golf courses that are open to visitors. Each

ski resort course has its own unique character and charm. Sipapu’s 18-hole course, chosen by Disc Golf Digest as one of the five most scenic courses in the country, takes players through river crossings and elevation changes. At Red River’s 18-hole course, players play high in the aspen trees and have to maneuver on tight fairways over 18-holes. At Taos Ski Valley’s 18-hole course players should be prepared for steep elevation changes. Angel Fire’s 18-hole course course takes players on a scenic hike around the resort’s summit. Call ahead — as of press time, TSV’s disc golf season was to-be-determined, due to ongoing construction projects at the resort. For those craving something different check out Two Gray Hares 18-hole course and Picuris Pueblo’s 27-hole course. Two Gray-Hares is a “farm course,” with sage brush, trees and a river. Picuris Pueblo’s course is difficult even for experienced players and features more brush than trees. Wherever you’re playing, both Leslie and Sedillo recommend being patient on the course and keeping your cool. “You’re not in a rush,” Sedillo says. “Take your time and have fun.”

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TA O S I N P I C T U R E S

DISCOVER A D V E N T U R O U S R E L A X AT I O N — O J O C A L I E N T E M I N E R A L S P R I N G S R E S O R T & S PA

jo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa is one of the oldest natural health resorts in the United States. Opened in 1868, Ojo Caliente is the only hot springs in the world with four unique, sulfur-free healing mineral waters, including iron, arsenic, soda and lithia. It’s a popular retreat for locals and a great place to explore when you’re in the area. For a complete experience, combine a soak with one the resort’s natural spa treatments. Find out more at ojospa.com.

Photographer Gak Stonn says, “The perfect combination of ancient healing waters, rustic New Mexico atmosphere and luxurious pampering ensures a tranquil yet energetic experience.”

FACTS: • Ojo Caliente offers a variety of lodging accommodations, including suites and cottages, the historic hotel and private homes. All lodging, with the exception of the RV and Camping Park, includes access to mineral pools, plus the steam room and sauna. • Over 100,000 gallons of water come to the surface each day • The Artesian Restaurant in the historic hotel offers seasonal Southwestern favorites, global cuisine (with local flavors), signature items, lighter fare and a large selection of local and imported beers and wines

Gak Stonn

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T AO S

RETIREMENT VILL AGE

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TA O S I N P I C T U R E S

EXPLORE O R I L L A V E R D E R E C R E AT I O N A R E A

he Orilla Verde Recreation Area is the southernmost attraction in the Río Grande del Norte National Monument, nestled along the banks of the Río Grande within the Gorge. The campgrounds in this area offer close proximity to the river, where gentler waters provide an ideal setting for many recreational activities, including fishing, floating, rafting, kayaking, swimming, hiking and biking. Vist the Río Grande Gorge Visitor Center in nearby Pílar for more information about recreation and for the geological history of this unique area. The Taos Junction Bridge, pictured here, sits at the north end of the recreation area. Photographer Robert Groos says, “Weary from a long drive, I looked forward to taking a dip in the Río Grande somewhere along the Orilla Verde Recreation area. As I descended State Road 570 down into the gorge approaching the Taos Junction Bridge, I saw a large group of young folks congregated on the bridge. It turns out they were jumping off the bridge. Their mouths dropped when I said I was going to join the fun. What they didn’t know was that I was a springboard / platform diver in college, so jumping off heights was second nature to me. I adjusted the settings on my camera, and asked a Navy corpsman down below to take photos as I leaped off and swam to shore. That swim was one of the most satisfying in my life. I wished them all a good day, and continued on to Taos for the weekend.”

FACTS: • The elevation along the river is 6,100 feet and the canyon rises 800 feet up from the river Robert Groos

• Wildlife includes raptors (eagles and hawks), songbirds, water fowl, beaver, cougar, ringtail mule deer and more • The Recreation Area includes trails, seven campgrounds (with tables, grills and restrooms), RV sites (at two of the campgrounds) and group shelters • From Taos, follow State Road 68 16 miles southwest to Pílar and turn northwest on State Road 570 Connect with us! DiscoverTaos.com

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Evan R. Blish Qualifying Broker office 776.8106 Jolie Jones Property Management Long & Short Term Rentals Associate Broker office 741.0603

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Evan R. Blish, Broker Greg Jaramillo Jolie Jones Chris Stagg 575.776.8106 pinoninvestmentsoftaos.com

Peter Blake

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TaosSummer-MtnBikeSpring-3.5955x9.875_Layout 1 4/3/15 3:02 PM Page 1

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Tina Larkin

TAOS PUEBLO THE ANCHOR OF NORTHERN NEW MEXICO HISTORY

ew Mexico has a long and storied history. Only becoming a state in 1912, its association with the United States is but a blip in the timeline of this enchanted land. In fact, prior to the annexation of New Mexico by the U.S. in 1846, the area was “ruled” for nearly 300 years by Spain and then Mexico. But going even farther back, let’s try at least 1,000 years, the Red Willow people of Taos Pueblo have called this place at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains home. The main part of the present buildings at the Pueblo look much the same as when the Spanish first arrived in Northern New Mexico in 1540. The fact that people still live in those buildings makes it the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States. Tradition and heritage are the cornerstones of activities in all seasons at Taos Pueblo. From the private rites of Pueblo members to more public — and often more recent — traditions, such as powwow, there is always a sense of history that

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predates any colonial associations with this great land. POWWOW A powwow is a gathering of Indian Nations in a common circle of friendship, according to taospueblopowwow.com. This summer, Taos Pueblo will host its powwow July 10-12 at the Taos Pueblo Powwow Grounds. Join masters of ceremonies Boye Ladd and Otis Half Moon in a grand spectacular of dance, food and music as cultures from across North America will be in attendance to celebrate their heritage and to compete for prizes in different categories of dance, including the gourd and chicken dances, as decided by head judge Leonard Atcitty. As always, the weekend will begin with the grand procession on Friday night. For more information, visit taospueblopowwow.com.

FEAST DAYS Feast Days at Taos Pueblo mix Catholic traditions with ceremonies of the Pueblo religion. According to Taospueblo.com, a typical feast day includes “eating, visiting with family, friends and enjoying traditional dances that are allowed to public spectators. Feast days are an integral part of the Pueblo culture.” Remember when attending San Antonio Feast Day (June 13), San Juan Feast Day (June 24),

Taos Pueblo Powwwow takes place July 10-12.

Santiago Feast Day (July 25) or Santa Ana Feast Day (July 26) that these ceremonies carry religious meaning for the members of the Pueblo. It’s important for visitors to behave as they would in their own places of worship. Ceremonial dances that the Pueblo chooses to share with the public are performed in the afternoon. The Santiago and Santa Ana Feast Days coincide with Fiestas de Taos, which also commemorate the patron saints of Taos. The tradition of feast days goes back to the early days of Spanish colonization. No photography is allowed at any of the feast days. SAN GERONIMO EVE VESPERS AND FEAST DAY A celebration of the fall harvest, San Geronimo Feast Day festivities begin Sept. 29 with a sundown dance, followed by Vespers in San Geronimo Church. On feast day, Sept. 30, there are foot races and the traditional pole climb. In celebration of the harvest, there is always a trade fair with crafts and food for sale. The origins of the event can be traced back to the frontier era, when the Pueblo would trade food and wares with other Pueblos and other American Indian tribes. Eventually, Spanish colonists and French Fur traders were included as well. Taos Pueblo is open to the public for tours and guided tours most days from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Call the Taos Pueblo Tourism office at (575) 7581028 for more information or visit taospueblo.com.

314 Paseo del Pueblo Norte Suite F (Just south of the Post Office) 575-758-3840 Volunteer Run Member-Owned Organic / Local Non-GMO

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Jim O’Donnell

The Fourth of July Parade in Arroyo Seco is a one-of-a-kind event.

ARROYO SECO ASK A LOCAL

By Teresa Dovalpage

Patricia Reza’s relationship with Arroyo Seco dates back over 30 years. First she sold her art at Arroyo Seco Mercantile, then worked there (she is still involved with the shop) and later she opened her own store, Santos y Mas, in the heart of the little village.

Teresa Dovalpage

Q. WHAT ARE THREE REASONS TO VISIT ARROYO SECO? A. Great food, great shopping and a great community. I will expand on this. Taos Cow was named one of the top 10 ice cream shops in America by Bon Appétit magazine. The ice cream is locally made and comes in many different and unusual flavors — ever heard of lavender ice cream? Abe’s Cantina y Cocina, established in 1945, is perhaps the oldest hangout for locals and serves the best chicharron

burritos in Taos; Aceq is a fine dining restaurant that uses organic ingredients; and Sabroso is famous for its freshsqueezed margaritas. As for shopping, in Arroyo Seco Mercantile you can find everything, from Pendleton blankets to antiques. Santos y Mas, my store, sells santos, of course, plus retablos, paintings, ornaments and much more. Don’t forget the beautiful jewelry and sculptures at ClaireWorks, and Continues on page 158

Patricia Reza, co-owner of Santos y Mas, and her dog, Meggy.

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ARROYO SECO

Gak Stonn

El Salto Falls is a series of waterfalls that travels down the face of El Salto Mountain, above Arroyo Seco.

Continued from page 156

WE ALL KNOW EACH OTHER AND THAT GIVES THE PLACE THIS SPECIAL FEELING OF CLOSENESS, OF BEING PART OF A FAMILY.

Francesca’s pretty clothes. There is something for everyone!

part of a family. The visitors pick up on it and know they are welcomed here.

Q. WHAT IS THE BEST LODGING IN ARROYO SECO? A. There are many and they are all good, but if I had to choose, I would say The Abominable Snow Mansion, because it’s the most picturesque. Located halfway between Taos and the Ski Valley, it has beautiful gardens and spectacular views. Guests can stay in private or shared rooms, or sleep in a teepee outside. They have a pool table, toys for kids, games, books … I already mentioned all these wonderful places to eat but if people prefer to prepare their own food, they can use the hostel’s fully equipped kitchen — and don’t need to leave Seco to buy the ingredients. You can get groceries at Sol Food Natural Market, which is walking distance from the SnowMansion. They sell organic produce and meats and also have a deli and juice bar. You won’t go hungry in Seco!

Q. WHO IS THE MOST INTERESTING ARROYO SECO CHARACTER? A. That would be Larry Torres, a native of Arroyo Seco. He knows everybody and everything about this area, and is an expert in New Mexico history. He is also a well-known scholar who has written extensively about our traditions and has devoted several articles to Arroyo Seco. He lives here and is the deacon at our local church, Holy Trinity Parish. Larry leads the Posadas every Christmas as well.

Q. TELL ME A FACT ABOUT ARROYO SECO THAT FEW PEOPLE KNOW. A. This is a community of locals. All the merchants live pretty close to Arroyo Seco, not more than 10 miles away, or right here in the village. I live in Valdez, which is only five miles away. We all know each other and that gives the place this special feeling of closeness, of being

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Q. WHAT IS THE MOST FAMOUS EVENT HELD IN ARROYO SECO? A. The Fourth of July Parade. It really attracts a crowd: around 5,000 people congregate here every year, and the number keeps growing. It’s only two blocks long, but it includes a big array of attractions, from painted ponies to unusually decorated floats, trucks, vintage cars and Taoseño trucks. This is a quirky, fun event you shouldn’t miss. Did I mention good food? There are also free concerts all day long. The parade starts at noon but you should come early to get a good seat. People say it is “the biggest little parade in the country.” Come see it this summer. ¡Bienvenidos a Seco!

ARROYO SECO J U LY 4 T H PA R A D E

WHERE THE LOCALS GO! Fresh Homemade Food

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TAOS SKI VALLEY FIVE REASONS TO VISIT TAOS SKI VALLEY THIS SUMMER By Cindy Brown

IT IS COOL Taos has moderate temperatures in the summer. However, when the thermometer is hitting the 80s in town, it will generally be in the 70s at Taos Ski Valley. Cooler temperatures mean everything is a little more enjoyable, including hiking, biking, horseback riding, fishing and sitting outside for a beer. FULL MOON HIKING Taos Ski Valley Mayor Neal King will lead hikes to Williams Lake on full moon evenings. Hikes are planned for July through September. Watching the silvery moon rise over Williams Lake is a dramatic way to experience the outdoors at night. The hike begins at 10,000 feet and ends at more than 11,000 feet; it is a moderately steep two-mile climb. Dress in warm layers and bring flashlights or head lamps, water, snacks and hot beverages. Meet at the parking lot near the Bavarian; the times vary depending on the month. For details, call (575) 776-1413 or visit taosskivalley.com. UP AND OVER 10K TRAIL RUN The big event for the summer will be the Taos Ski Valley 10K Up and Over Trail Run, to be held Aug. 1. Highlights of the course include

Gabe Toth

Runners participate in the 10k Up and Over at Taos Ski Valley.

views of Kachina and Wheeler peaks. It begins at 9,200 feet and gains more than 2,600 feet in the first three miles. This run attracts both citizen competitors and elite runners. It is part of the 2015 Trail Runner Trophy series. For more information, visit taosskivalley.com/trailrun

HIKING IN THE CARSON NATIONAL FOREST Although there will be construction at the ski area this summer, access to all Carson National Continues on page 162

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Photo: Michael DeYoung

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TAOS SKI VALLEY

Photo courtesy Northside at TSV

Riders cruise Northsideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trails, overlooking Taos Ski Valley. Continued from page 160

COME SEE WHAT IS HAPPENING AND CHECK OUT THE COOL ADVENTURES, BOTH DAY AND NIGHT, AT TAOS SKI VALLEY THIS SUMMER.

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Forest trails will remain open. The Bull-of-theWoods Trail starts near the base area and climbs up 1,500 feet to a beautiful meadow. The trail follows the East Fork of the RĂo Hondo and features an explosion of mid-summer wildflowers. The Williams Lake and Wheeler Peak Trails can be reached by continuing to drive up the switchbacks to the parking lot near the Bavarian. Williams Lake is a popular four-mile, round-trip hike of moderate difficulty. Wheeler Peak is almost 10 miles altogether and reaches the highest point in New Mexico at 13,161 feet; it is a more difficult hike. MOUNTAIN BIKING AT NORTHSIDE Northside at Taos Ski Valley is a fee-based recreation area. Day and season passes are available for mountain biking, as well as hiking. Many of the Northside trails connect with Carson National Forest. Highlights include hiking or biking to the top of Frazer Mountain at 12,163 feet. The mountain biking trails are best for intermediate to expert riders. Purchase a daily pass ($5 for hiking; $10 for mountain biking) or a season pass ($50) at the Taos Ski Valley Chamber Visitor Center or at the trailhead. For more information call (575) 776-

3233 or visit ridenorthside.com. ALSO THIS SUMMER A family-friendly afternoon celebration will be held on the Fourth of July, including firetrucks and music at the Bavarian restaurant. Additional music events are planned throughout the summer at the Bavarian and Stray Dog. CONSTRUCTION UPDATE Construction at the base area will include demolition of the guest services building and groundbreaking on a new hotel and guest services center, according to Taos Ski Valley Chief Marketing Officer Jesse Keaveny. There will also be some work along the Ski Valley Road to install electrical, natural gas, and fiber-optic lines, which will make cell phone service more reliable. Keaveny says the result of the work this summer will provide a new lodging choice and will centralize services such as equipment rental and retail shopping. Come see what is happening and check out the cool adventures, both day and night, at Taos Ski Valley this summer.

Between Taos Inn & Cafe Renato FREE PARKING | OPEN DAILY 758.8605

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TAOS SKI VALLEY THE LIFE UP HIGH

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Courtesy Angel Fire Resort/Terrance Siemon

The zip line at Angel Fire Resort.

ANGEL FIRE NEW MULTIS MILLION

ome places start with RVs and call it a resort. Angel Fire is starting with the resort and adding the RVs.

DOLLAR RV RESORT OPENS THIS SUMMER

Angel Fire Resort recently announced it is on track to open a state-of-the-art RV Resort for business by this spring. The 35-acre, modern RV Resort will offer guests access to golf, fine dining, horseback riding, a zipline adventure tour, fishing and a mountain full of outdoor winter activities, such as skiing and snowboarding, Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, tubing and sledding. Additionally, the resort’s location in the Enchanted Circle provides proximity to world-class fishing in Cimarrón Canyon and Eagle Nest State Park, guided hunting, ATV trails and snowmobiling. Guests will also have access to Carson National Forest for biking and hiking. “Angel Fire Resort has been working with the top experts in RV development and resort hospitality to create a luxury

RV Resort. While we will offer traditional RV amenities, our goal is to go way beyond and create a true mountain haven where guests can come to stay for an extended period of time and enjoy our mountain community,” explains Jim Anderson, manager of the Angel Fire RV Resort. “We will continue to work on the resort until it exceeds the expectations of today’s passionate RV travelers.” The luxury resort, constructed on mountain meadowland at the foot of Carson National Forest, will feature 102 RV spaces initially and will ultimately offer 325 spaces upon completion. The new RV resort will include a well-appointed private clubhouse, paved roads, oversized spaces with easy pull-through access and 30/50-amp electrical pedestals, DirecTV access, bathrooms, showers and laundry facilities, convenient Wi-Fi access, outdoor fire pits and Jacuzzis, putting green, pickle ball courts, bocce ball, shuffleboard, a dog park and more. Continues on page 168

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ANGEL FIRE “ANGEL FIRE RESORT HAS TAKEN HUGE STEPS TO CREATE A PREMIERE FAMILY VACATION DESTINATION...WE HOPE IT WILL BRING VISITORS FROM ALL OVER THE COUNTRY TO ENJOY THIS TRULY SCENIC VILLAGE AND MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY.” — JIM ANDERSON, ANGEL FIRE RV RESORT MANAGER Continued from page 164

ach RV space will be large enough to handle the slide-outs of today’s biggest recreational vehicles. RV spaces will be available for short- and long-term rentals. With frontage access to U.S. 64, the resort provides guests with convenient proximity to the wide array of outdoor recreation amenities in Angel Fire, including golf, horseback riding, cycling, hiking, fine-dining restaurants, fishing and more. “Angel Fire Resort has taken huge steps to create a premiere family vacation destination in the Rockies. From building a new Country Club, to extensive renovations to The Lodge at Angel Fire, to adding additional activities on and off the mountain and now the unveiling of the new RV Resort. We hope it will bring visitors from all over the country to enjoy this truly scenic village and mountain community,” said Anderson. The resort is now accepting reservations for May 2015 and after. Guests can log onto angelfireresort.com/lodging/rv-resort or call (888) 976-1541 to make their reservations. BIKE PARK NEWS The Angel Fire Bike Park is going to be launching the Global Gravity Season Pass, which provides half-off any day pass if you are a season pass holder at any bike park world wide, for unlimited days. The Angel Fire Bike Park is the first to open in the Rockies and has the longest season in the

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Courtesy Angel Fire Resort

The AFR Bike Park is one of the highest-rated parks in the country.

Rockies as well. The weekend of May 14-17, Angel Fire will kick off the bike season with several DH (downhill) races, live music, a beer garden and free outdoor movies. Later in the month, enjoy the Ride, White and Blue Festival Memorial Day Weekend, May 2125. Events include a South Boundary XC Trail Ride (Angel Fire to Taos) with free shuttle service provided, live music, demo days, beer garden and outdoor movies. The next weekend, the Bike Park will host a Free Ride Weekend, May 28-31, with free downhill bike lessons for everyone who comes out to the Bike Park. There will also be free XC, kids and family bike clinics. The park is expanding to over 100 miles

of trails this summer (from just over 60 miles), which includes more cross-country trails and an extension of the popular blue trail, Devinci’s Code. And bike carriers are being added to the Chile Express Chair lift, making for much easier access to the summit and smoother unloading and loading. For a full schedule, visit angelfirebikepark. com IN OTHER NEWS The Angel Fire Resort golf course opens May 21 and Tennis will begin May 1. Other summer activities at Angel Fire include boating and fishing, scenic chairlift rides, disc golf and zip line adventure tours. For more information about Angel Fire Resort, visit angelfireresort.com.

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EAGLE NEST THE STORY OF ONE FAMILY’S SUMMER PARADISE By Gabriel Weinstein

he view from the porch of the Griffith Family Cabin in Lake View Pines outside Eagle Nest is straight out of a post card. A canopy of pines opens up to a stunning view of Eagle Nest Lake and snow-capped mountains. Steve Griffith thinks about that scene all year from his other home, in Dallas. His work colleagues get jealous when he describes the thrill of seeing the Milky Way in the night sky and the Moreno Valley’s mosaic of summer blossoms. “As soon as we drive the pass from Cimarrón Canyon and see the valley, it’s like a whole different world,” Steve says.

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Griffith’s grandfather, George Cullum Sr., purchased the cabin and 200 acres in Lakeview Pines in the late 1940s. Cullum Sr. was looking for a cool, summer retreat his family could escape to during the sweltering Texas summers. As a child Steve would visit the cabin every summer for two weeks with his parents Marion and Bill Griffith and his siblings. Steve and his friends would take jeep rides through the mountains, picnic in Red River Canyon and visit Taos Pueblo. These days Steve and his wife Helen savor the occasional afternoon Margarita while soaking in the view. “You enjoy life a little bit more there,” he says. Steve learned to love the mountains from his parents. The cabin was a way for Bill Griffith to return to his roots, Steve says. His father grew up on a farm and worked as a foreman for his grandfather’s construction company. “Ever since he first saw it, Dad told Granddad ‘I would really like to have it,’ ” Steve said. Marion and Bill Griffith spent every

Marion and Bill Griffith following one of Eagle Nest's Fourth of July Parades.

summer in Eagle Nest for most of their adult lives and became fixtures in the community, serving as grand marshals of Eagle Nest’s famous Fourth of July parade. They both spoke about the cabin until they died. Over the years the family cabin has became more than a summer getaway. It is the family’s anchor in Northern New Mexico, a place that keeps decades-old friendships alive and preserves cherished family memories. This summer will be a new experience for Steve and Helen when they go up to the cabin. Marion died in March at the age of 95 in Dallas. Bill passed away in 2008. Though Marion and Bill are no longer alive, they are still a major presence at the family retreat. Steve and Helen will feel their presence on the porch — “Their favorite place in the world” according to Marion’s obituary — and at the cabin’s wood stove, one of Marion’s noted cabin hangouts. And when Steve and Helen marvel at the twinkling Moreno Valley night sky, Bill and Marion will be there in spirit, taking a long look at the stars with them.

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RED RIVER RED RIVER SKI AND SUMMER AREA UNVEILS THE “PIONEER FLYER,” A NEW FAMILY FRIENDLY ZIP LINE By Yvonne Pesquera

ed River Ski and Summer Area has a long history of making families smile. But this family owned resort (by the Judycki family since 1959) is not stuck in the past. New this year, the resort has unveiled the “Pioneer Flyer,” a double-seated zip line. To be clear, a seated zip line is very different than the hair-raising “harness and helmet” zip line you typically see on TV commercials. A seated zip line is a family friendly attraction. It requires no hiking or extreme athleticism. Here’s how it works: You and a family member (or friend) sit side-by-side in padded seats with dual seat belts. Together, your seats ride up the line to the towers situated on the ski hill, which is U.S. National Forest land. You pause above treetop and take in the surroundings –– from the fresh mountain air to the picturesque mountain town.

Courtesy Red River Ski and Summer Area

Soaring over the town fishing pond at 32 mph brings a sweet thrill!

And then –– you SOAR! over Pioneer Road and the town fishing pond back to the starting platform. It is the highest thrill with the lowest impact. Every one who steps off has a big smile and

immediately says, “I want to do it again!” “The decision to install a zip line was simple. They are a great amount of fun,” says Linton Judycki, assistant to the general manager of Red River Ski and Summer Area. Continues on page 174

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THE TAOS NEWS

QUESTA WHERE LIGHT IS LIFE

uz es Vida. Light is indeed life in Northern New Mexico. This summer Questa puts a regional spin on UNESCO’s 2015 International Year of Light.

In proclaiming an International Year focusing on light, the UN has recognized that light plays a vital role in our daily lives. Here in New Mexico, light supports our agricultural heritage. And, the unbroken light across the sage stopped a couple artists in their tracks 100 years ago solidifying our artistic heritage. In Questa, light powers the entire village. The theme of “Light” is celebrated this June with a month-long art show of small works at OCHO Art and Event Space. July sees an exciting day of events just west of the village in the Río Grande del Norte National Monument, where the Visitors Center amphitheater will play host to a light-themed Pecha Kucha storytelling evening. The themed series will end with the burning of Cucui during the reopening of the newly restored Eagle Rock Lake east of town. This tiny, historic village is surrounded by wilderness. Questa’s traditional ways still embody an unbroken relationship with its wild lands; from fishing and hunting to gathering pine nuts and felling firewood. This is where you go to fly fish amid red willows in a box canyon. Questa’s recreation opportunities offer an alternative to the more developed and more well-known options in neighboring towns. Located between Carson National Forest and Río Grande del Norte National Monument and on the northern boundary of the new Columbine-Hondo Wilderness Area, Questa offers stunning hiking trails, dramatic campsites, serene mountain lakes and pretty drives for the less adventurous. Get a schedule from the Visitor Center and join one of the guided hikes offered by the BLM. Just a half-hour north of Taos, Questa’s rough and remote location has seen intermittent settlement by Europeans since the 1700s. It was

Courtesy Questa Visitors Center/Photo by Geraint Smith

Canoers on Cabresto Lake, west of Questa.

vulnerable to Ute raids for generations and grew into the very rugged, independent population you’ll meet today. Questa’s thick-walled adobe church stands at the center of this traditional community. Built in the mid-1800s, it gave the village its original name of San Antonio del Rio Colorado. “Questa” was an Anglo attempt at simplification but became an official misspelling of the Spanish “cuesta,” referring to the ridge where the old

church plaza was built. This historic structure suffered major damage several years ago and is undergoing painstaking reconstruction by community members. Visitors are invited to lend a hand every Saturday morning and are rewarded with a home-cooked meal at noon. Bring your sense of adventure, your desire for community, or a need to get away from it all, and discover this gorgeous, remote slice of Taos County.

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Questa Lumber & Hardware Co. Questa Co. Questa Lumber Lumber& & Hardware Co. Look for our

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SIPAPU SKI & SUMMER RESORT AN EPICENTER FOR GEOLOGICAL EXCURSIONS

hile some consider the Taos area a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts, spiritual seekers and art connoisseurs, another group returns to Northern New Mexico year after year for something different: rocks and fossils. Many of these rocks and fossils are millions of years old, and all of them just a short drive from Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort. Located in the heart of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains 20 miles southeast of Taos, Sipapu is a family resort that offers skiing in the winter, fishing and world-class disc golf in the summer and slope-side lodging year-round. Since it opened in 1952, it has also served as a base camp for budding geologists. Stephen Harper, director of the North Carolina Geology Field Course and Teaching Associate Professor at the Department of Geological Sciences for East Carolina University, has brought groups to Sipapu for over a decade. Harper says that Ivy League schools began the tradition of sending geology groups to the western United States nearly 100 years ago because the unique geological formations were more exposed and accessible. Today, the geologist says he also brings his students to the Taos area for another reason. “We love this area because it is so culturally diverse,” he said. “There’s an eclectic mix of demographics that you just don’t see anywhere else on Earth.” New Mexico’s arid climate and sun-soaked days also provide extensive time in the field, and Harper said his favorite geological field trips are all located just a short drive from Sipapu. “Students always enjoy the Río Grande Gorge, although it was formed within the last million years, so it’s a relatively young feature.” Located just 35 miles north of Sipapu, the gorge was carved by the river and the watercourse follows a tectonic chasm (or a place where the Earth’s crust is being pulled apart). The popular Río Grande Gorge Bridge spans the width of the 800-foot-deep gorge, revealing layers of rock that geologists love to

Greg Kreller

Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort makes a great home base for students studying the unique and varied geology of Northern New Mexico.

explore. Harper says his field guide trips usually include the Harding mine, where students study minerals such as beryllium, lithium and tantalum. He also pointed out that Sipapu’s location makes accessing memorable day trips such as Bandelier National Park, Great Sand Dunes, and the Valle Caldera National Preserve convenient. Years ago, when universities first brought their geology students west, it meant weeks, even months, of camping and field study. Today, Harper said,

bringing students to Sipapu means they can explore the same remarkable formations those programs began studying so many years ago — but this time, he and his students can do it with a hot shower, a delicious meal and a warm bed. “During our field camps, students figure out how to put together everything they’ve learned in a classroom — it’s like baptism by geology, he said. “The students learn a lot, especially how to live with others. And nobody complains that they don’t have to camp for six weeks anymore!”

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TA O S I N P I C T U R E S

EXPLORE R U G G E D W I L D E R N E S S — VA L L E V I D A L U N I T O F T H E C A R S O N N AT I O N A L F O R E S T

he Valle Vidal is a lush mountain basin, located in the heart of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo Mountains. It is home to magnificent herds of elk and other abundant wildlife, including native cutthroat trout in the Comanche and Costilla Creeks (the confluence of which is pictured here). Flora includes a number of wildflowers (best viewed in July and August) and the ancient bristlecone pine. The Valle Vidal is one of the most remote wildernesses in Northern New Mexico with elevations ranging from 7,700 to 12,584 feet.

Geraint Smith

Photographer Geraint Smith says, “Looking northeast at Costilla Creek, this favorite spot in Northern New Mexico is a great place to watch the high country greening up after the winter. Passing clouds create a patchwork of natural spotlights on the countryside which draw the viewer deeper in to the landscape. The rich greens of long grasses dancing in the wind, wildflowers and the cool mountain air beckons during the hot days of summer in the Taos Valley.”

FACTS: • 3,000 Boy Scouts from the nearby Philmont Scout Ranch participate in a High Adventure program in Valle Vidal each year • In addition to Comanche and Costilla Creeks, Valle Vidal is home to the headwaters of McCrystal Creek and North Ponil Creek, both of which have been recommended as Wild and Scenic Rivers protection • Valle Vidal was donated as a public land by the Pennzoil Company in 1982 and it is managed by the National Forest Service.

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THE TAOS NEWS

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SanLuisValley.org

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SUMMER/FALL

CALENDAR2015 ONGOING EXHIBITS

VENUE LIST

EVERY SUNDAY THROUGH JUNE 14 Koala Colours Studio New Monotype Show Come view pieces of art created by Diane de Fremery, Kathleen Smith and Ann Wyndham, with occasional benefits to support animal shelters and rescue organizations. At Koala Colours Studio, 1-5 p.m. facebook.com/ koalacolours

THROUGH JULY 17

Tina Larkin

Taos Solar Music Festical

ONGOING EVERY TUESDAY

After Twerk Tuesdays Come and enjoy Tuesday evenings with DJ Will playing 90s hip-hop and R&B. At Kyote Club, 9-11 p.m.

Karaoke with Dj Eyes Come sing to your heart’s desire at this fun-filled karaoke event. At the Alley Cantina, from 9:30 p.m.12:30 a.m.

brings the best of Taos’ musicians to Taos Plaza. taoschamber.com

EVERY FRIDAY

Rick D’s Lost-n-Found Music Scene EVERY THURSDAY Come listen to music from Open Mic Night the ’40s onward, such At Taos Mesa as jazz, Latin and rock, Brewing, 5-7 with the occasional guest Katy P and p.m. Visit the Business performer. At Stella’s discovertaos.com Enjoy Weekly Disc Italian Restaurant, to explore what weekly Golf Doubles 6-8:30 p.m. else Taos has funk, soul Sipapu Ski EVERY SATURDAY to offer and rock and Summer Chris, Cass and Julie along with Resort’s great food weekly disc golf Listen to folk, ballads, jazz, blues and more and drinks. At the doubles begins at while enjoying fresh Alley Cantina, 9:30 p.m.- 5 p.m. every Thursday 12 a.m. from May 28-Sept. 10. No coffee. At Taos Java, 9:30 a.m.- 1 p.m. registration required, just EVERY OTHER TUESDAY show up about 10 minutes Omar Rane at the Irish Session before tee time. Sabroso Bar Traditional Irish music and sipapunm.com Come and enjoy jazz, craic (jokes, gossip, etc). blues, rock and world Omar and the Bandits At Eske’s Brew Pub, music at Sabroso Enjoy dining and cocktails 7-9 p.m. Restaurant and Bar, 6-9 with a mixture of rock, p.m. funk, reggae and dance. EVERY WEDNESDAY At Old Martina’s Hall, EVERY SUNDAY Jimmy Stadler at the 7-10 p.m. Sabroso Bar Sunday Soul Brunch Join musician Jimmy Featuring the sounds Taos Plaza Live! Stadler as he plays a of Miles Bonny and the Every week all summer wide variety of music. At culinary talent of Andrew long (May 28-Sept. Sabroso Restaurant & Bar, 3), The Taos County Horton. At Taos Mesa Chamber of Commerce 6:30-8:30 p.m. Brewing, 2-4 p.m.

“Past, Present and Future: A Celebration of Taos Art Colony” Marking the 100th anniversary of the founding of the Taos Society of Arts, the Taos Arts Council presents this event featuring artists of Taos County and Northern New Mexico representing a variety of mediums. A free, public reception will take place at Taos Town Hall on July 17, 5-7 p.m. taosartscouncil.org

JULY 21-NOV. 6 Taos and Beyond: Open Studio Tours in Northern New Mexico Acknowledging the importance of the many open studio events that take place in Northern New Mexico during the fall season, this exhibit offers a showcase representing these various studio tours. Sponsored by the Taos Arts Council and held at Taos Town Hall. taosartscouncil.org Continues on page 200

The following venues have repeat calendar entries: Alley Cantina 121 Teresina Lane, Taos (575) 758-2121; alleycantina.com Black Mesa Winery Taos Tasting Room 241 Ledoux St., Taos (575) 758-1969; blackmesawinery.com Eske’s Brew Pub 106 Des Georges Lane, Taos (575) 758-1517; eskesbrewpub.com Kyote Club 330A Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 751-3302; kyoteclub.com Old Martina’s Hall 4140 State Road 68, Ranchos de Taos (575) 758-3003; oldmartinashall.com Sabroso’s Restaurant and Bar 470 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco (575) 776-3333; sabrosotaos.com Stella’s Italian Restaurant 112 Camino de la Placita, Taos (575) 751-0100 SOMOS Salon 233 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 758-0081; somostaos.org Taos Java 1006 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 751-9405; facebook.com/taosjava Taos Mesa Brewing 20 ABC Mesa Road, El Prado (575) 758-1900; taosmesabrewing.com Total Arts Gallery 122A Kit Carson Road, Taos (575) 758-4667; totalartsgallery.com

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River’s favorite bars. For more information, call (575) 754-2366 or visit rrmusicfestival.com San Antonio Feast Day Traditional dances, food and more at Taos Pueblo. taospueblo.com

JUNE 16

Poetry Reading with Karla Linn Merrifield Join Merrifield, a PushcartPrize nominee and National Park Artist-inResidence for an evening of poetry. 6:30-7:30 p.m., at SOMOS Salon

JUNE 19-21

Art & Wine Festival The annual Art & Wine Festival is presented by the Red River Chamber of Commerce every Father’s Day weekend in Brandenburg Park. This event features fine art, pottery, photography, wine sampling, silent auction, and live music. redriver.org Balloons Over Angel Fire Hot air balloons will once again grace the skies over Angel Fire for this colorful and exciting weekend. (866) 668-7787; angelfirefun.com Chile Challenge Pro GRT Mountain bikers and downhill riders take to the course. (844) 218-4107; usacycling.org/ProGRT

JUNE 20

Eagle Nest Songwriters Round Concert Nashville comes to Eagle Nest Lake with this inaugural event featuring emerging songwriters from Music City performing hit songs they’ve written for other performers. 1:30-5 p.m. at Eagle Nest Lake State Park. For information, tickets and more, call (575) 377-2420 or email info@ eaglenestchamber.org 1Nite2Unite Concert A free community concert of unity put on by the churches and Christian groups joining together in a celebration of song and worship. 1nite2unite.com

JUNE 21-AUG. 9

Taos School of Music

Summer Concert Program A series of concerts to celebrate Taos School of Music’s 53rd season. Featuring Borromeo String Quartet, Robert McDonald and Michael Tree, Shanghai Quartet, Brentano Quartet and Thomas Sauer in addition to the Young Artist concerts at Taos Community Auditorium and St. Bernard Hotel. For a complete list of concerts and more information, visit taosschoolofmusic.com

JULY

JULY 3-JULY 30

TaosFolk TaosFolk’s summer pop-up store will be located in the historic Stables Gallery, every day,10 a.m.-5 p.m. On July 3, there will be a special celebration to honor the artisans, 5-7 p.m.

JULY 3-5

San Juan Feast Day Traditional dances, food and more at Taos Pueblo. taospueblo.com

Celebrate Freedom from Violence Arts & Crafts Fair Local and regional artists and craftspeople will exhibit their work at this benefit for Community Against Violence, in Kit Carson Park, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

JUNE 26

JULY 4

JUNE 24

Kate Mann & Mark Dudrow Come listen to soulful singing and high-energy cello. At Black Mesa Winery’s Taos Tasting Room, 6-9 p.m.

JUNE 27

Toast of Taos Wine Festival & Golf Tournament Toast of Taos will be held at the Taos Country Club with a 9 a.m. golf tournament, followed at 2 p.m. by an afternoon of sipping gourmet wines, while enjoying culinary delights from Taos’ finest restaurants and caterers. There will also be a silent auction featuring fine art, wine and more. toastoftaos.com Jacob and James Quartet Lively quartet, headed by father and son James and Jacob Hagerty, play Celtic, folk and traditional tunes. 6-9 p.m., at Black Mesa Winery — Taos Tasting Room.

JUNE 27-28

Taos Solar Music Festival A full weekend of music, including John Butler Trio, Kongos, Rixton, The Wallflowers and Rodrigo y Gabriela. solarmusicfest.com Rough Riders 200 A two-day double-century bike tour through the beautiful Sangre de Cristo mountains that ends in Angel Fire. roughriders200.com

Angel Fire Adventure Marathon Participate in the Angel Fire Adventure Marathon/ Half Marathon/5K/ Kids Run and Expo at Angel Fire Resort. 10 Miller Lane, Angel Fire Call (480) 6463366 for information and to registrar. angelfireadventure.com Parade & Picnic, Red River The day begins at 10 a.m. with a parade, followed by a full day of activities all over town. After the parade stroll down to Brandenburg Park where you can enjoy live music and good old-fashioned family fun, then head to the Red River Community House for its annual July 4th Egg Toss. Main Street & Brandenburg Park, Red River. (575) 754-2366. Arroyo Seco Fourth of July Parade Join 5,000 or so other revelers lined up to witness the zaniest two-block parade in the country. Downtown Arroyo Seco.

JULY 10

One-Man Show Celebrate Zhaoming Wu’s first show with Total Arts Gallery. Meet the artist and view his newest stunning works at Total Arts Gallery.

JULY 10-12

Taos Pueblo Powwow

Join in this gathering of Indian Nations, with dance competitions, regalia, food and fun. taospueblopowwow.com

JULY 11-13

Sipapu Summer Slam Disco Golf Tournament Two rounds will be played on Saturday and one round will be played on Sunday. For more information, contact Jason Weldon at elitebrothersdiscgolf@ gmail.com

JULY 17-19 Fiestas de Taos A centuries-old fiesta celebrating the gathering of generations to enjoy delicious cuisine, traditional music and fellowship, while honoring the cultural uniqueness of Taos. Taos Plaza. fiestasdetaos.com Mountain West Vintage Trials Association Vintage Created for motorcycle trials enthusiasts and specifically for riders of twin-shock motorcycle models produced in 1980 and prior, this event focuses on agility, balance and technique. (575) 5870586; sipapunm.com

JULY 25

Santiago Feast Day Traditional dances, food and more at Taos Pueblo. taospueblo.com

JULY 25-26

High Country Arts and Crafts Festival Juried artists and craftspeople with handmade items from all over the country. Wine tasting, beer garden and

live music. Eaglenestchamber.org

JULY 26

Santa Ana Feast Day Traditional dances, food and more. taospueblo.com

AUGUST AUG. 1

Up and Over 10K Trail Run Beginning at 9,200 feet and climbing more than 2,600 feet in the first three miles, this run is part of the 2015 Trail Runner Trophy Series. taosskivalley.com/ trailrun

AUG. 6

Red River Valley Buckaroo Ball Pull out your finest Western duds for a night of food, festivities and fundraising. The Red River Valley Buckaroo Ball hosts an evening of cocktails, delicious food, live music, dancing and silent and live auctions to benefit the Red River Valley Foundation, a nonprofit created by and for the people of Red River. Red River Conference Center, Red River. redriver.org/ buckarooball

AUG. 8

Dulcimer Festival A day filled with workshops, concerts, Continues on page 202

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CALENDAR2015 Continued from page 201

singing, and jamming. Don’t know what a dulcimer is? Sign up for a workshop and you’ll be playing in no time. Red River Community House, Red River. (575) 754-2349; redriver.org

AUG. 9-10

Summer Arts & Crafts Fair Local and regional artists and craftspeople will exhibit their work at this benefit for Community Against Violence, in Kit Carson Park, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

AUG. 12-15

Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights Music Festival & Cook-off Red River’s music scene can trace its roots back to Texas, mostly centered around Austin’s “red dirt rock”. True to this tradition, “Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights” features live music all over town with Larry Joe Taylor & Friends, as well as multiple cook-offs in Brandenburg Park. larryjoetaylor.com

AUG. 21-SEPT. 6

Music from Angel Fire Summer Festival Angel Fire celebrates its 32nd Summer Festival with an impressive array of works from the great classical, romantic, baroque and contemporary composers. Performed in 14 concerts in the beautiful New Mexico mountain communities of Angel Fire, Taos, Raton and Las Vegas. Artistic director and violinist Ida Kavafian is joined by the Miami Quartet as well as a host of internationally renowned artists. David Ludwig is the 2015 Composer-in-Residence. musicfromangelfire.org

AUG. 28-29

Ragnar Trail Run Presented by Solomon, the Ragnar Trail Angel Fire event offers a chance to run, camp, sleep and

202

Tina Larkin

Taos Pueblo Powwwow takes place July 10-12.

repeat over two days and one night. Grab seven friends (or three crazy ones) to form a team and get ready to run on worldclass single-track trails. Back at Ragnar Village, the party will come alive with live music and bonfires. ragnartrail.com

SEPTEMBER SEPT. 5-7

Fine Arts and Crafts Enjoy a free Memorial Day Weekend Fine Arts and Crafts show in Kit Carson Park with local and visiting artists demonstrating and selling their work. Food and entertainment each day. Sept. 5 and 6, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sept. 7, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. (575) 7581264

SEPT. 6

Enchanted Circle Century Tour Nearly 600 cyclists take on the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway for one of the most challenging

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tours in the Southwest. The tour is a 100-mile ride around the Enchanted Circle that includes a short trip through Angel Fire to Black Lake and back. redriver.org

SEPT. 10-12

Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance The Barn Dance moves into town, at Kit Carson Park. Full lineup and more information coming at michaelhearne.com/ bigbarndance

SEPT. 11-13

Bavarian Weekend BMW Motorcycle Rally This rally, at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort, is considered one of the finest BMW motorcycle rallies in the West. For fees and information, visit sipapunm.com

SEPT. 18-21

Disc Golf Doubles State Championship At Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort. sipapunm.com

SEPT. 19

Chile Challenge All proceeds from this daylong event benefit the annual Taos County Rotary Scholarship, and Literacy Funds for Taos County youth. Golf Tournament and Battle of the Breweries offering an unlimited sampling of some of the finest beers in the southwest. In addition there is also a silent auction with over 100 items, including gift certificates from the area’s leading businesses, galleries, lodging and restaurant establishments. Taos Country Club, 54 Golf Course Drive, Ranchos de Taos. (505) 603-1342.

SEPT. 25-27

Aspencade Arts & Crafts Fair Browse through booths of hand-crafted items, jewelry, home furnishings, food, art, pottery and specialty goods while you enjoy good food, live entertainment and the changing colors of fall in Red River. redriver.org

Music on the Rocks Music Festival Featuring the 40th annual Arts and Crafts Fair with some of the best local and regional artists, a beer garden, artist booths and amazing food and beverages, not to mention great live music. sipapunm.com

SEPT. 29-30

San Geronimo Eve Vespers and Feast Day A celebration of the fall harvest at Taos Pueblo. taospueblo.com

OCTOBER OCT. 9-11

Oktoberfest The annual Oktoberfest at Brandenburg Park includes microbreweries, food and craft vendors, German Polka music, kids activities, a “pub crawl” and contests like Ms. Oktoberfest, Mega Mustache, Stein holding, chicken dance, yodeling and brat eating. redriver.org

Summer/Fall 2015 /// discovertaos.com

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ENTERTAIN IN STYLE Nambé Taos at 109 North Plaza, Taos, NM 87571 - P: 575-758-8221 Monday-Saturday 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Nambé Pojoaque 90 Cities of Gold Road, Santa Fe, NM 87506 - P: 505-455-2731 Monday-Saturday 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.