WINTER / S PRING 2022
TAOS
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ANGEL FIRE
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RED RIVER
Three chefs:
What’s your secret ingredient? Two women, four restaurants · Taos pop-up revelations
“Best Burger inNew New Mexico” “Best Burger in Mexico” USA Today USA Today
"Best Burger & Happy Hour" “Best Burger & Best Happy Hour” Taos Taos News
Hormone & Antibiotic-Free Since 2008 NM Craft Beers Hormone & Antibiotic-Free Dog-Friendly Patio
NM Craft Beers GOURMET BURGERS & SALADS PATIO - DINING ROOM - DRIVE THRU Protein Bowls
HAPPY HOUR 4 - 6 pm DAILY 758-8484
GOURMET BURGERS 5starburgers.com
ENTREES SALADS 1032- SANDWICHES Paseo Del Pueblo-Sur
HAPPY HOUR DINING OUT
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4 - 6 pm DAILY
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CHARLES COLLINS GALLERY “A TAOS MASTER” ... MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM
“Traditions” 16 x 20 acrylic on canvas, Jenna Bass
“The Blumenschein”, 11 x 14“ acrylic on canvas, Karen Lieberman
“Circle Of Life”, 16”x 20“ Timothy Bunn
“Forest Mystery”, 30”x 24“ acrylic on canvas, Quinn Dray
“Greek Mystery” photograph on canvas Brian Hudzik
“Lady In Red”, 8”x 10“ acrylic on canvas, Jill Collins
“My Casius” Clay orb by Sandy Maestas Potter
Acrylic on canvas by Robert Ross
Most Awarded Artist in the History of Taos Fall Arts Festival Taos Plaza • charlescollinsgallery.com • 575-758-2309 DINING OUT
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CHARLES COLLINS GALLERY “A TAOS MASTER” ... MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM
“Einstein Mastermind” Bronze Charles Collins
Da Vinci three piece bronze separated showing da Vinci the artist and scientist and the Mona Lisa
“Da Vinci Mastermind” Bronze three-quarter front view Charles Collins
“The Prayer”, mixed media/oil, Charles Collins
“Mary With Child”, oil/mixed media, Charles Collins
“Coming home”, oil on canvas, Charles Collins
“Tapestry of Time Ancestors”, oil on canvas, Charles Collins
Most Awarded Artist in the History of Taos Fall Arts Festival Taos Plaza • charlescollinsgallery.com • 575-758-2309 TAOSMENUS.COM
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CONTENTS TAOS POP-UPS BY JEANS PINEDA
20 TWO WOMEN, FOUR RESTAURANTS B Y LY N N E R O B I N S O N
36 THREE CHEFS: WHAT’S YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT? BY ARIELLE CHRISTIAN
ELIJAH SAFFORD, ACEQ RESTAURANT
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MARSHALL THOMPSON, DONABE ASIAN KITCHEN
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ROBERT KRAUSE, THE BURGER STAND AT TAOS ALE HOUSE
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Photo: The Love Apple | Nathan Burton/Taos News
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LARRY MARTINEZ JEWELER Jewelry, Gold, Silver, Diamonds Custom Work, Repairs, Watches, & Battery Replacement Since 1971 AAA rating BBB
575.758.4169 822 Paseo del Pueblo Sur
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CONTENTS 2 5 STAR BURGERS 3 AMINA’S CHILDREN’S BOUTIQUE 4 CHARLES COLLINS GALLERY 7 LARRY MARTINEZ JEWELER 9 THE CELLAR 10 ACEQ RESTAURANT 11 CHOKOLA BEAN TO BAR 12 CID’S FOOD MARKET 13 DONABE ASIAN KITCHEN 14 GORGE BAR & GRILL 15 PARCHT BOTTLESHOP + BITES 16 GUADALAJARA GRILL 17 GUTIZ 18 HOTEL DON FERNANDO 19 HUNAN CHINESE RESTAURANT 26 JAVA WOLF 27 LA CUEVA 28 MARY JANE'S HOME COOKING 29 MEDLEY 30 MICHAEL'S KITCHEN 32 MONDO ITALIANO 33 PIZANOS 34 RED RIVER BREWING COMPANY & DISTILLERY 35 MADAM’S 42 ROCKY MOUNTAIN CHOCOLATE FACTORY 43 SOL FOOD MARKET & CAFÉ 45 TAOS FOOD COOP 49 TAOS INN 53 TAOS PIZZA OUTBACK 56 WAKE AND TAKE CAFE 57 YU GARDEN 58 TAOS ROASTERS 59 THE LOUNGE BY ROLLING STILL 60 SABROSO RESTAURANT AND BAR Photo: Martyrs Steakhouse | Nathan Burton/Taos News
575-758-2241
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taosnews.com
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taosmenus.com
S T A F F Robin Martin, Owner / Chris Baker, Publisher / Lynne Robinson, Managing Editor / Karin Eberhardt, Creative Director / Nathan Burton, Photographer Chris Wood, Advertising Director / Shane Atkinson, Sales Manager / Emily Lee, Media Specialist / Tyler Northrope, Media Specialist / Paul Gutches, Production Manager Megan Jones, Copy Editor / Skye Hill, Digital Editor O N T H E C O V E R ACEQ restaurant, Photo by Nathan Burton DINING OUT
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Open Mon-Sat 10am - 7pm 623 B Paseo Del Pueblo Norte (Behind Cid’s Fod Market) 575.758.745
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xperience
featured nightly s
featured nightly special
an elevated dining experience
Call for a reservation
575.776.0900 480 NM-150 Arroyo Seco, NM 87514
@aceqrestaurant | aceqrestaurant.com
rvation
0900 an elevated dining experience
M 87514
estaurant.com
Call for a reservation
575.776.0900 480 NM-150 Arroyo Seco, NM 87514
@aceqrestaurant | aceqrestaurant.com DINING OUT
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featured nightly s
Named ’One of the Best Chocolate Shops in America’ by Magazine
C h o k o l a B e a n To B a r
TUESDAY–SUNDAY 11AM – 6 PM 106 JUAN LARGO LANE
THANK YOU TAOS FOR VOTING US BEST PLACE FOR SWEET TREATS 2021
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Enlightenment served with every bowl house specialty Kani nabe 26 jonah crab legs, tofu, nori, tomato, and steamed vegetable, rice on side Wagyu beef tournados 30 blood orange glaze, mekybetsu (brussels) champloo Pad thai vegetable 16 / large shrimp 21 Red curry 17 coconut broth with steamed veggies and choice of rice or noodles Gun powder green tea curry 17 coconut broth with steamed veggies and choice of rice or noodles Wakayama ramen 16 for 1 / 28 for 2 chuka soba noodle, naruto kamaboko, marinated egg, boar shoulder, scallion, and haricot vert Vegetarian ph∂ 14 with fresh local vegetables, sprouts, herbs, jalapeño, wild mushroom medley, and choice of rice or noodles Ph∂ bò 16 with beef brisket, bison shank, tripe, fresh veggies, sprouts, herbs, jalapeño, wild mushroom medley, and choice of rice or noodles
133 paseo del Norte donabetaos.com | 575.751.9700
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575.758.8866 www.thegorgebarandgrill.com
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Taos’ BEST Mexican Restaurant
2015 to
2021
Winter Hours: Sun–Thu 10:30am–8:30pm Fri–Sat 10:30am–9pm
FIRST PLACE
Serving Domestic & Import Beers • Wine • Margaritas
NORTH SIDE SOUTH SIDE
822 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte 1384 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur 575-737-0816 575-751-0063
guadalajaragrilltaos.com DINING OUT
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Pollo Borachon
French Toast
VISIT GUTIZTAOS.COM FOR CURRENT HOURS and full menu Breakfast and lunch are both served all day Homemade French Bread, Croissants & Pastries
-Beer & Wine -Mimosas -Hot Cocoa -Locally Roasted Agapao Coffee
812B Paseo del Pueblo Norte - Taos - (575) 758 -1226 TAOSMENUS.COM
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Palettes
Taos
Food
arT
O P E N DA I LY Breakfast 6am-10am Full Bar opens at 4:30pm Happy Hour 4:30pm - 6:30pm Dinner from 5pm - 10pm Industry Hour 9pm - 10pm MENTION THIS AD FOR 10% OFF YOUR MEAL (ALCOHOL NOT INCLUDED)
Tapestry Collection By Hilton
1005 PASEO DEL PUEBLO SUR, TAOS | 575-751-4444
hoteldonfernando.com
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DINE IN OR TAKE OUT
(575) 751 - 0474 www.HunanTaos.com
Lunch Specials
From 11am - 3 pm Served with Soup, Rice, Egg roll
1023 Paseo del Pueblo Sur next to Storyteller Theater Closed Tuesdays
BEER & WINE SOME OF OUR POPULAR DINNER ENTREES: ALL ENTREES SERVED WITH STEAMED OR FRIED RICE
SEAFOOD BIRD’S NEST Lobster, scallops, shrimp, crab and fish filet, sauteed in a delightful white wine sauce. Served in a flour basket. VOLCANO SHRIMP HOT! Dipped in a light tempura batter, then combined with ginger, crushed red peppers and scallions. Garnished over a bed of steamed broccoli. IMPERIAL SHRIMP Crispy Shrimp in a light tempura batter, glazed with sweet ginger sauce. Garnished over a bed of broccoli. Gotta try it! BLACK PEPPER SHRIMP Succulent tiger shrimp stir-fried with diced sweet onions, peppers, and a touch of black pepper. Garnished with steamed broccoli. SPRING ROLL (2) Vegetarian egg roll. POT STICKERS (6) Pan-fried dumplings with ground meat and vegetables. HOT & SOUR SOUP HOT! Spicy chicken broth with pork, bean curd and bamboo shoots. DRAGON PHOENIX SOUP Subtle flavors of chicken and crab compliment each other delicately. GENERAL TSO’S TOFU Vegetarian “General Tso’s Chicken” TA CHIEN GAI Sliced chicken with broccoli, snow peas, carrots, bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, etc. Sauteed in a spicy brown sauce. PEKING ROAST DUCK Roast boneless duck. Served with pancakes, scallions and Hoisin sauce. • LEMON CHICKEN • • TERIYAKI CHICKEN • • GENERAL TSO’S CHICKEN • • MOO-SHOO DUCK • PEPPER STEAK Beef tenderloin sauteed with fresh green peppers and onions in a brown sauce. GINGER LAMB Sliced lamb sauteed with sweet spicy ginger in a brown sauce. Garnished with steamed broccoli. ROYAL SHRIMP Shrimp with snow pea pods, water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, broccoli, carrot and mushrooms in a wine sauce. SESAME SHRIMP Lightly battered shrimp glazed with a sweet, spicy brown sauce. Sprinkled with sesame seeds. • STIR-FRIED RICE • PAN-FRIED NOODLES • • LO MEIN • SWEET & SOUR • • VEGETABLE ENTREES • Subject to change without notice.
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TAO S P O P U P S BY JEANS PINEDA
COURTESY JOHNNY ORTIZ / SHED PROJECT
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COURTESY THE STAKEOUT
THE STAKEOUT From the highway one can see an enigmatic rabbit sign along Stakeout Drive. If you
she started a pop-up called Beets N Thyme. A place that incorporates gardening, cooking, and art. Now they’ve got Tyrell Brandvold for one of their upcoming events. He’s worked at important establishments in the big easy: a revered bistro named Gris Gris, and a trendy Cajun Vietnamese fusion neighborhood restaurant named Mopho. He’s bringing his talents to the Stakeout for a 5-course New Year’s Eve dinner party.
“follow” the white rabbit it leads you to a pristine white building sitting atop Outlaw Hill known as the Stakeout. From their two-tiered wooden deck one can see for miles and miles, and lose themselves in the panoramic splendor, hence the name. Primarily known as a place to cement one’s everlasting love for their significant other, they also have a running series called the Sunset Supper Club, an immersive shared dining experience as the sun goes down in Ranchos De Taos. It’s an opportunity to showcase the talents of their chef-inresidence.
On Jan. 15, join them for Wintertide feast, a hearty family-style community dinner to warm the soul. On Feb. 12 you can go “Makeout at the Stakeout;” I think they might also have food at this event. Get on their mailing list by emailing them at hello@stakeouttaos.com to get reservations for these limited seating events. → 23
Formerly it was Mina Seck, a gregarious black queen from New Orleans. Back home
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TAO S P O P U P S
LEE COOKS CHURCH
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COURTESY LEE COOKS CHURCH
When a place in Taos has soulful tunes suffusing the air it’s likely LeeCooks Church
consisting of roasted red cabbage and tortillas stuffed with mushrooms and curry carrots, or the traditional barbecue ribs with coleslaw and beans. As with most popups, the menu is subject to change but you can rely on the flavors.
will be on premise serving up one of her coveted jerk chicken plates. The sight of her at an event, usually at a Revolt shindig or a Seco Live throwdown, is usually a religious revelation. Naturally, there is a congregation, who will look to a certain spot of a venue where she’s known to set up her stand, and they will say with their facial gestures: “Where the hell is Lee?”
Lee is planning to bring a little bit of New York to Taos. Not so much the trendy spots, but the classic tried and true bodegas, where you find Timberlands and bodega cats, a special group of felines that rid the store of rodents. They expect to open this much needed type of storefront where the Taos Spice Merchants used to be, sometime around Black History Month. It’ll be open to the public five days a week. Text them your email, or slide in their DMs, or better yet send them an email at LeeCooksChurch@gmail.com to receive their monthly newsletter, aptly named The Afternoon Service. → 24
With every flock a certain kind of agnosticism kicks in, and the ones of little faith will ask any nearby individual if Lee will really arrive. That is the significance of her Caribbean offerings. The Church menu is divided into liturgies. For instance there is the “Devotion,” a segment devoted to rainbow quesadillas, a technicolor twist on tacos featuring red and blue corn tortillas. Every service must have a sermon, and the sermon is either a “Platter of Pride”
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TAO S P O P U P S
JOHNNY ORTIZ The accomplishments of Johnny Ortiz are as impressive as they are archetypal. Young
might think hyper modernist gastronomic manipulations of food, but there’s also elements of simple but meticulous taisekitype forms of preparing and plating dishes. It’s hard to say what exactly you should expect at one of these small scale dinners. The only guarantee is a special experience and an educational moment.
passionate and driven aspiring chef casts aside everything to be hired at a premier restaurant, in this case the Michelin 3-Star Alinea. The rest is history. Luckily for us, we can partake in the progress of this James Beard award nominated chef over at /Shed, his meditative treatise on endemic plants, raised animals, and New Mexican spaces. Like the best chefs that you see on Netflix’s “Chef’s Table” you’re more likely to see him out in nature than in front of a stove theatrically cooking. The quintessential image of Johnny is with him snipping shoots or of him pestling rose petals. You
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Shed Project dinners are set to start again in Spring 2022. The new space will be over in Vallecitos and will feature an old wood stove. Reach out to them via email at sheddinnerproject@gmail.com. You can even send them a letter at P.O. Box 631, La Madera, NM, 87539. •
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#sheddinnerproject OPPOSITE PAGE ROW 1: Last of the native plum blossoms | first strawberries | raw cream | ponderosa bark | globe mallow · Various types of alpine fir tips | yarrow | lettuce | smoked trout · Sweet clover | golden currant | raw cream | peach —— ROW 2: Flor de calabaza | calabacita | chanterelle · Young peas and their shells | melon | canyon grape | summer weeds · Verdolarga | last year’s canyon grape | this year’s chokecherry —— LEFT: Wild elk | dried and fresh native rose fruit | red cap bolete · Distilled blossoms | fresh blossoms | wild seeds | raw honeycomb BELOW ROW 1: Ponderosa bark | piñon | raw cow cream | pear · Biscochito ponderosa bark raw cow’s milk pumpkin · Celeriac | piñon pine needles, buds, twigs, and nuts | egg from our chickens —— ROW 2: Desert native flowers | honeycomb | taos white corn | piñon nut · Young cactus pad | canoncito chile | quelites · Young fava beans | violet wood sorrel | last year's cactus fruit
COURTESY SHED PROJECT
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Where the Locals Go Follow the locals to Angel Fire’s original espresso shop
Coffee & Espresso Locally Roasted over 20 Years Sweet & Savory Baked Treats Natural & Organic Sourced Ingredients
OPEN Sun-Thurs: 7am-2pm • Fri-Sat: 7am-3pm 3375 Mountain View Blvd, Ste. D • Angel Fire Next to Lowe’s Grocery Store
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CAFE
#1
CUEVA LA
m lp.co at Ye
Trip Advisor Award of Excellence 2013, 2014, 2015
"THE BEST FLAVOR OF MEXICAN FOOD" Enchiladas Ceviche Burritos Fish & Chips Chimichangas Camarones al Mojo de Ajo Rellenos Garlic Style Salmon Chicken Mole Enchiladas Seafood Enchiladas Fajitas Chipotle Shrimp Tacos Plato Combinado Fresh Fruit Smoothies
TAK AVA E OUT ILA BLE
TEN U L G E! FRE
575-758-7001
Come enjoy our expanded dining room.
WE DELIVER BUSINESS & WORKPLACE Serving Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Now serving Beer, Wine, and Margaritas Monday through Saturday 10am - 9pm Closed Sunday Credit Cards accepted
135 Paseo del Pueblo Sur • Parking available on Quesnel St.
www.lacuevacafe.com TAOSMENUS.COM
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SERVING NEW MEXICAN FAVORITES
WITH A SMILE FOR
29 YEARS!
VOTED BEST ROADSIDE FOOD STAND FOR 17 YEARS
616 Paseo del Pueblo Sur Monday-Friday 7am-3pm || Closed Weekends
575-770-1171 DINING OUT
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medley.
dinner . drinks . wine shop
go ahead and warm your bones
medleytaos.com ph: 575.776. 8787 ski valley rd., mile marker 1
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“Best Italian food in New Mexico.” ~Trip Advisor
Dine In Take Out Espresso Bar Beer and Wine
mondoitaliantaos.com DINING OUT
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ENJOY OUR MOUNTAIN Highest elevation brewery and distillery in New Mexico Indoor and outdoor dining
Serving lunch and dinner daily Great Food Great Drinks Great Service
RedRiverBrewing.com / 575-754-4422 Located on Main Street in Red River DINING OUT
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B Y LY N N E R O B I N S O N
P H O T O S B Y N AT H A N B U R T O N
Two women, four restaur THE LOVE APPLE
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Women have been cooking meals in their home kitchens forever, but restaurants have long been largely ruled by male chefs and restaurateurs. Women restaurant owners have always been a rare breed but
ants
lately women have been taking culinary skills outside their home kitchens and are using those skills to make major strides in that industry. Currently, more than half of the restaurants in America have women as owners or co-owners. Two such women not only live in Taos, but own not one but two restaurants each, and not just any old restaurants either, but four of the most popular ones in town.
MARTYRS STEAKHOUSE
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→ 38
W
Two women, four restaurants
hen Rene Mettler and Kimberly Armstrong arrived in Taos in 1994, they imagined it was only a quick stop on their way to Sedona.
FILE PHOTO
KIMBERLY ARMSTRONG
“We met Ron Cooper and he showed us the building in Ranchos de Taos,” Kimberly recalls, “and that was that.” The couple chose Taos in after deciding to leave the corporate restaurant life which had them coming and going from Europe for years, before moving back to the States.
MARTYRSSTEAKHOUSE.COM BENTSTREETDELI.COM
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They opened the Trading Post Café, a neighborhood bistro where food (mainly Italian), art and the local community all came together. Mettler’s art and that of other locals always hung on the walls. The Trading Post Cafe & Gallery became a Taos institution, a gathering place for locals and visitors alike who appreciated the excellent, discreet service, the fabulous and consistent menu as well as the hospitality Kimberly Armstrong extended to all who walked in the door. When the pandemic hit, Armstrong decided to close the Trading Post and focus on the two eateries she’d bought in town, after her husband passed away. Both Martyrs Steakhouse and the Bent St. Deli were well established by the time Armstrong took over, but she brought her singular flair with her, turning the ordinary into the extraordinary. The Bent St. Deli was on Armstrong’s radar for years prior to purchase.
the juicy ribeyes people have come to expect from the cosy historic house on Martyrs Lane.
“Rene and I had talked about it for years,” she told me when she first bought it, “so when it came up for sale, I didn’t hesitate.”
Armstrong can often be found in both places in and out of the kitchen, nimbly moving between the front and back of the house.
A couple of years ago Armstrong bought Martyrs and closed the Trading Post soon after. but rest assured, she carried over many of the beloved dishes that had earned the Trading Post its stellar reputation over the years, dishes long prepared by Mettler in that iconic Ranchos kitchen, along with small plates and
Like Jen Hart, the owner of the Love Apple and Manzanita Market, Armstrong is not afraid of getting her hands dirty. Both women are known to do it all, from bussing tables to hostess duties, they are hands on in their establishments. → 40
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Two women, four restaurants
COURTESY PHOTO
JEN HART
H
art grew up here in Taos and managed the highly acclaimed Joseph’s Table before opening The Love Apple. Informed by her travels to Europe and Paris in particular, Hart’s refined aesthetic and attention to detail, along with her commitment to local organically grown, farm to table produce and excellent wines, has blessed Taos with a world class bistro. A favorite of locals and returning visitors alike, it has become a destination spot for those in the know. The menu changes seasonally and boasts locally grown, organic produce and pasture raised meat and poultry, simply prepared, and beautifully presented.
THELOVEAPPLE.NET M A N Z A N I T A M A R K E T. N E T
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Housed in what was once the Placitas Chapel, a little Catholic Church built during the 1800s, the space is intimate, charming and tastefully appointed. However, be advised the room is tiny, especially in winter when the patio is closed, and fills up fast! So do be sure to make reservations, but leave your plastic behind. The Love Apple accepts cash and checks only.
space like the food, is simplicity personified. Simple but certainly not ordinary, Manzanita like the Love Apple, focuses on fresh, organic ingredients and serves up tasty salads, sandwiches and bone brothbased soups, daily, along with delectable homemade baked goods and ice cream. Hart avoids the spotlight like the plague, preferring word of mouth to advertising, and truth be told, neither of the women or their respective establishments, require much in the way of publicity; their businesses are already booming, thanks to great work ethics and food that speaks for itself. •
Manzanita Market is on the same corner of the Plaza that is home to the World Cup Cafe. With two entries — one from the Plaza side, the other on Juan Largo Lane across from Chokola, Manzanita has become one of the most popular breakfast and lunch spots in Taos. The pristine, white space (Hart’s signature) features a long communal table with a few smaller bistro tables against the walls and not much else besides the counter that conceals a minimal, yet efficient kitchen area. Wire and crystal chandeliers made by artist Marianne Fahrney hang from the old vigas catching the light. Art hangs on the walls, along with a few mirrors, but the
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Locally Owned & Operated
112 S. Plaza | Taos, NM 87571 Located in the Plaza 575.758.8855 DINING OUT
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THE HEALTHIEST FOOD IN TAOS!
ORGANIC SALADS
SMOOTHIES / JUICES
BREAKFAST DAILY
GRILLED PANINIS
ESPRESSO / PASTRIES
OPEN EVERY DAY!
Café 8am–3pm • Market/To-Go 8am–8pm • On the Way to Taos Ski Valley • Everyday Groceries • Boutique Items - Gifts • Dairy - Frozen Foods
575-776-5765 575-776-5765
|
• Fresh Produce • Local Meats • Pet Food
• Household - Personal Care • Health and Body Care • Prepared Foods
Downtown Arroyo Seco NM TAOSMENUS.COM
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|
solfoodnm.com
WHAT’S YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT? BY ARIELLE CHRISTIAN
Elijah Safford ACEQ “Flavortown,” says Elijah Safford, the 22-year-old head chef/owner of Aceq Restaurant in Arroyo Seco. Yeah, you read that right. Flavortown — a mixture of dried herbs and spices (Chimayo chile, for example, amongst other shush-shush ingredients) that’s like a Louisiana-inspired Cajun blackened seasoning. An umami-vibe base, if you will, the title calling to celebrity chef Guy Fieri’s declaration of yumminess on his Food Network TV shows. The stuff goes on chicken, fish and even truffle fries, which are all shoestring-cut zest and zing and paired with sweet onion dipping sauce. → 46 N AT H A N B U R T O N / TA O S N E W S
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? n I g n i Taste the the difference! Taste difference! n i Taste the difference! D
Our member-owned and volunteer-run grocery savessaves you you Our member-owned and volunteer-run grocery money while providing theand healthiest, highest quality foodsfoods Our member-owned volunteer-run grocery saves you money while providing the healthiest, highest quality available. Pick-up & delivery services are available. money while providing the healthiest, highest quality foods available. Pick-up & delivery services are available. available. Pick-up & delivery services are available.
Always Finest Foods Always Finest Foods Always Finest Foods Always Lowest Prices Lowest Prices 314 314 Paseo del Pueblo Norte Always Lowest Prices Paseo del Pueblo Norte 314 Paseo del Pueblo Norte taosfoodcoop.com 575-758-3840 taosfoodcoop.com 575-758-3840
taosfoodcoop.com TAOSMENUS.COM
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575-758-3840
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WHAT’S YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT?
T
he seasoning was created the way most menu items in the Aceq kitchen are whipped up — in the spirit of play and excitement. “I like to keep people on their toes,” says Safford, who’s quick to admit he’s not professionally trained, which lends to his signature “cool new weird shit” modern-American style. The Taos-native compares himself to mixed martial artist, Conor McGregor, saying, “You never know which hand he’s going to punch with. I’m unorthodox, but it opens people’s eyes to the infinite experiment of cooking.” Experiments: Combining New Mexican posole with duck. Packing creamy polenta with green chile and cheese. Or the wildblender taste test of vegan shishito pepper mousse thickened with tofu, which is served with tempura-fried avocado, eggplant and tofu. Safford tries not to get too abstract with his plated amalgamations. He changes up the menu often so folks don’t get too comfortable, their palates bored and unquestioning.
“Cooking is a direct representation of love,” Safford says. Especially when it’s all from scratch (chopping heirloom tomato after heirloom tomato versus pulling from a can). To Safford, all that time and energy is the real secret ingredient. • DINING OUT
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MANGAS CROWFEATHER SOUS CHEF
ELIJAH SAFFORD
HEAD CHEF & OWNER, ACEQ
N AT H A N B U R T O N / TA O S N E W S
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WHAT’S YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT? BY ARIELLE CHRISTIAN
Marshall thompson DONABE ASIAN KITCHEN
“There’s no one simple bullet point for everything as far as the unique flavors that I create,” says Marshall Thompson, the head chef at Donabe Asian Kitchen. “We’re talking 28 years in this business that’ve helped me carve out my own special take.” → 50 N AT H A N B U R T O N / TA O S N E W S
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Locally-Sourced Authentic New Mexican Cuisine
Taste New Mexico...
Locally-Sourced Authentic New Mexican Cuisine Taste New Mexico...
Locally-Sourced Authentic New Mexican Cuisine 125 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE | 575.758.2233 | TAOSINN.COM TAOSMENUS.COM
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WHAT’S YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT?
T
hompson, from Providence, Rhode Island, went from 18-year-old dishwasher to line cook and on to famous culinary school, Johnson & Wales, to whipping up curryand-coconut inspired French toast at Julian’s restaurant (in Providence), to opening up an Asian food cart in the John Dunn shopping center, to eating his way through every place he’s traveled to. He says it all goes into the mixing pot of inspiration. The third generation restaurateur (his grandma with her own spot and his dad in hospitality) compares cooking to music: it’s all already been done before. He’s quick to joke that he obviously didn’t invent pho. Or the clay pots utilized in Japanese cooking that the restaurant is named after and that keep flavors banging with each bite. Part of his spin settles on sourcing local ingredients. For example, fresh herbs and vegetables like cilantro and carrots and squash from Umami Gardens in Ranchos, or the tender wagyu beef from Jason at Taos Wagyu, which is used in the tournedos served with a blood orange glaze. The restaurant makes their own ramen. Marshall started tinkering with food when he was young, because mom’s boiled squash would come out as mush, and dad’s specialty was Kraft Mac and cheese with store-canned pickled beets and a grilled hot dog. (Marshall admits this is actually still a favorite meal of his.) “In college and poor, I’d torture my roommates with outrageous concoctions,” says the now-45-year-old. “Apples, lentils and mustard. Let’s mix it all together! Hey… it works.” • DINING OUT
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MARSHALL THOMPSON DONABE ASIAN KITCHEN
N AT H A N B U R T O N / TA O S N E W S
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WHAT’S YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT? BY ARIELLE CHRISTIAN
rober t krause TAOS ALE HOUSE/BURGER STAND
For The Burger Stand at Taos Ale House’s chef, Robert Krause, what makes a meal go from tasting good to “mysteriously delicious” is the balance between acidic and sweet. The way a few drops of vinegar or lemon can brighten the flavor in a salad dressing. “If the fire jam on the Fire Burger didn’t have acid in it, it’d end up tasting hot only. It’s not the heat that I crave. It’s the complexity,” says Krause, who goes on to explain how the avocado on that burger adds a meaty textural cool down to the overall flavor. → 54 N AT H A N B U R T O N / TA O S N E W S
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N! O O S G N I M E CO S U O H E E F F TAOS CO SE HOU THE COFFEETHE BUILDING IN WILL BE IN AOS PIZZA OUTBACK! FRONT OF T
INE ORDER ONLutback.com taospizzao
TA O
TAOSMENUS.COM
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M IN G S O O
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WHAT’S YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT?
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his understanding comes innately to Krause, who grew up in northern Montana the adopted son of a missionary family who, he says, wouldn’t let the boys in the kitchen, cooking off-limits. “Either you had a great garden and canned everything or you’d go hungry in the winter,” says Krause, whose interest in cuisine amped up at 18 while working in a restaurant in the Bay Area. He then went to The Culinary Institute in Hyde Park, New York before continuing work in fine dining.
The mysterious deliciousness abounds in the scratch-made condiments that pair with the cooked-to-order top-cut-angus burgers on Chocolate Maven (out of Santa Fe) buns and the baskets of fries: duck-fat, parmesan truffle, red chile Tajin, to name a few. Sauces that are so good that they need to be capitalized. AVOCADO RANCH. BLOODY MARIA BBQ. TOASTED MARSHMALLO, which is creamy and sweet — the marshmallows torched until crispy caramel brown and mixed with marshmallow fluff (it’s real) and a bit of milk — and pairs a hundo percent with the sweet potato fries. Soon, the restaurant will refine the menu, which adds to the long list of to-do’s in Krause’s — who wrote “The Cook’s Book of Intense Flavors” — busy world. Opening a pizza joint in the Ski Valley. Finding more hands to help in both the Taos and Santa Fe Burger Stand locations. Until then all remains spicy, sweet, acidic and super saucy. • DINING OUT
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ROBERT KRAUSE
THE BURGER STAND AT TAOS ALE HOUSE
N AT H A N B U R T O N / TA O S N E W S
TAOSMENUS.COM
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bowls / wraps / burritos / smoothies / fresh juice / coffee / tea our menu is 100% vegan and mindfully sourced with the utmost care
conveniently located in the village of Arroyo Seco we’re open 9am-3pm everyday except wednesday online ordering is available at shrublifefoods.com
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Taos’ Best Coffee
At Taos Roasters, we have a passion for great-tasting coffee. Here amid the soul-stirring vistas of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo Mountains, we import beans from the world’s finest growing regions and use our high-altitude, custom roasting process to deliver you coffee that’s always rich, smooth, and aromatic—never bitter.
Served at these fine establishments: Cid’s Food Market Dixon Cooperative Market Taos Food Coop Taos Cow The Coffee Spot Elevation Coffee The Taos Inn Lambert’s of Taos Bent Street Deli Mabel Dodge Luhan House Inn on La Loma Old Taos Guesthouse Martrys Steakhouse Carson Cafe & Grocery
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T H E A RT O F T H E CO C KTA I L
C R A F T CO C KTA I L S + S M A L L P L AT E S D OW N TOW N TAOS • R O L L I N G ST I L L .CO M
“A must when in Taos” Tripadvisor
Review
Locally Sourced Meats • Fresh Squeezed Margs • Incredible Ambience Open Wednesday – Monday
575.776.3333 Located on Ski Valley Road, 470 State Highway 150 in Arroyo Seco sabrosotaos.com
