Discover Taos by The Taos News

when experience counts

Coldwell Banker Mountain Properties is proud to be the #1 real estate company in Taos and Angel Fire, because we know the land. When it’s time for you to buy or sell real estate in New Mexico, the most PTWVY[HU[ KLJPZPVU PZ [V ÄUK [OL YPNO[ IYVRLY [V IL `V\Y N\PKL >L»]L ILLU OLYL MVY V]LY [OYLL KLJHKLZ·[OPZ PZ [OL WSHJL ^OLYL V\Y IYVRLYZ ^VYR WSH` HUK JHSS OVTL >P[O [OL TVZ[ L_WLYPLUJL HUK SVJHS THYRL[ RUV^SLKNL UV V[OLY YLHS LZ[H[L JVTWHU` NP]LZ `V\ TVYL 4LL[ V\Y IYVRLYZ H[ WWW.TAOS.REALESTATE

TAOS OFFICE 575.758.8673

angel fire OFFICE 575.377.1192

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Highest elevation brewery and distillery in New Mexico Indoor and outdoor dining

DISTILLED AND BOTTLED AT 8750’ IN RED RIVER, NM

Wide selection of hand-crafted brews, spirits, and specialty cocktails made with love on site

Located on Main Street in Red River RedRiverBrewing.com / 575-754-4422 4

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YOU’RE ON VACATION.

SPRAY AS MUCH DARN SNOW AS YOU WANT.

Cross-country and downhill skiing. Snowboarding. 5PQYOQDKNKPI 5PQY UJQGKPI *KMKPI (KUJKPI 6QCUV[ ǩTGU CV the end of the day. We’re that sleepy town that’s never sleepy.

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comfy feet make big Smiles! A custom bootfit elevates your comfort and perform ance. TAOS SKI VALLEY OPEN DAILY • 8A M TO 6PM

SKI | BOOTFIT | apparel & gear

WWW.BOOTDOC TORS.COM

Make an appoint ment with our expert bootfitters today 575-776 -2489

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it’s the details NOT YOUR AVERAGE HOME FURNISHINGS STORE

ALHAMBRA

Tuesday – Saturday 10:30 to 5:00 • 124 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur • 575.758.4161 8

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Kuhl

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“The mountains are calling and I must go.” – JOHN M U IR

Quality Outdoor Gear and Clothing for Every Adventure

MUDD-N-FLOOD MOUNTAIN SHOP

103 A Bent St. (near Taos Inn) • Taos 575-751-9100 • muddnflood.com MSR Snowshoes DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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John R. Sutton General Building Contractor, a long-established builder in the Moreno Valley, is known for taking the time to communicate with his clients and get a clear vision of what the owner is after. Working hard to establish his quality of workmanship and working relationships with sub-contractors, John strives to create a solid and dependable team. Managing this team is vital to a project finishing on schedule with the owner’s expectations in mind.

Visit our website for additional photos and testimonials... suttonconstruction.com

Photo by Jonah Sutton Instagram: @joney_hawk 12

John R. Sutton General Building Contractor, Inc.

Ofce: 575.377.6570 Cell: 505.603.4727 3407-2 Mountain View Blvd. | PO Box 76 | Angel Fire, NM 87710 designbuild@suttonconstruction.com | NM License #57394

n e h w t s u m A “ in Taos” Tripadvisorr

Review

Locally Sourced Meats • Fresh Squeezed Margs • Incredible Ambience Open Wednesday – Monday

575.776.3333 Located on Ski Valley Road, 470 State Highway 150 in Arroyo Seco sabrosotaos.com

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Specializing in Angel Fire, Black Lake, Eagle Nest

CATHERINE MOON

Qualifying Broker - moonRE LLC 3655 Mountain View Blvd., Angel Fire, NM 87710 505-795-3773 (Cell) ccmoon@moonRE.com

Mountain Realty Each office Independently Owned & Operated

Taos County Association of Realtors – 2018 REALTOR OF THE YEAR and RE/MAX Hall of Fame 14

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Overland Sheepskin started here in Taos, NM in 1973, offering sheepskin apparel made with meticulous craftsmanship. Our passion for quality is matched with exceptional service. Come visit us 2 miles North of Taos, towards Taos Ski Valley at: 1405 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575)758-8820 OVERLAND.COM DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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Together We Make A Powerful Difference “We knew opening a charitable fund with Taos Community Foundation was a strong move in honoring our son’s life. The Jason Knight Memorial Fund allows us to support the community projects that were important to him.” – Lynn and Billy Knight

photo credit: Jeff Caven

taoscf.org WINTER/SPRING 2022

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FIND WHAT’S REEL Home of the Rio Grande Del Norte National Monument 300,000 acres of year-round recreation 2 0 m i n u t e s n o r t h o f Ta o s

VisitQuesta.com Chevron is proud to sponsor this ad.

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Peggy Trigg " West Past The Gorge" Oil 48 x 48

Wilder Nightingale Fine Art YOUR ECLECTIC TAOS ART EXPERIENCE

VOTED BEST TAOS A RT G

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ALLERY 2021

119 Kit Carson Road • 575-758-3255 wnightingale.com

Peggy Immel “Limitless Skies” Oil 24 x 24

Stephen Day “Into The Hills” Oil 24x30 (Detail)

Steve Immel “Adobe at Ranchos Plaza” Photography

Monique Belitz "Precarious" Acrylic 36 x 36

FROM THE EDITOR Now is a great time to visit Taos. Our unique ski town is undergoing a Mountain Renaissance as visitors still flock to our streets and ski slopes. Returning ski enthusiasts are enjoying several new features this season at Taos Ski Valley. See pages 74, 82, 126-128 for more. Perhaps it is our sense of rugged individuality and creativity drawing visitors to this gem of the Enchanted Circle. Artists continue to gather here where they can create and market their masterpieces. Visit our museums and art galleries to see the diversity of artistic styles and creative fusion that flows freely in the town of Taos. See pages 44-66 for suggestions.

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Finding an unusual, locally-sourced, handmade gift in Taos takes little effort and time. Shopping is a delightful affair in the Taos Plaza and on Bent Street and we have a little guide for you on page 70. See the local businesses that have made a national or global impact on page 68. Or go with the gift of an experience in Taos. Hot air balloon rides, ice fishing or fly fishing excursions, horseback rides, snowmobiling, ice skating and sleigh rides are just a few of the experiences available here for fun. Even better is to gift yourself one of these, then follow it up with a beer or two (see page 90) or a hot drink (see page 96). Or take the whole family out for burritos (see page 98). In the past several weeks, I myself had the opportunity to explore Taos as a newcomer. I saw hot air balloons float above me and tasted locally brewed beers at Taos Mesa Brewing and visited several local favorite restaurants and galleries. From firsthand experience, I can say that there is much here to discover and that the spirit of Taos and the mountain will stay with you. This enchanted town has an almost magnetic force that is not easily forgotten. It may bring you here again and again to enjoy this place that is dramatically different. Enjoy! Megan Jones, magazine editor

We’ve been heating Northern New Mexico for over 75 years. After all this time, we’ve learned a thing or two. We believe in reliability, local understanding and reasonable rates. Call us today to experience

“The Northern Difference.”

NATHAN BURTON/TAOS NEWS

Remembering ‘Red’

Propane Delivery // Licensed Technicians Product Sales & Installation 800-916-2510 northernnewmexicogas.com

On the mountain and off, Michael Wagener aka "Red," was colorful a character as Taos attracts; outfitted in a “Rainbow Bright" unicorn onesie, whether flying down Black Runs, or jumping moguls, Wagener's prowess was legendary on the "mountain." The mountain drew him here, and here he stayed, an avid skier and outdoorsman Wagener epitomized the joie de vivre and independent spirit of Taos, in his passion for nature and sports. When the snow melted, Wagener would turn to mountain biking, exploring his favorite territory as the seasons turned. Soon enough, winter would return, with its fresh powder to play in. "Red" left us too soon, but he'll always be part of the mountain. We celebrate his life on the cover of this issue of Discover Taos, in his element, one with the elements.

— Lynne Robinson, Tempo editor

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CONTENTS

Arts & Culture

Shopping

Dining & Entertainment

Adventure

Communities

104

124 Taos Pueblo

Gaze ‘Through the Eyes of Fechin’

Casita industries

What's buzzing

Taos’ top trails

126 Taos Ski Valley

BY ELIZABETH BURNS

at local breweries

BY TAMRA TESTERMAN

One piece of art to see this winter 52 MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM COURTESY GRETA BRUNSCHWYLER

BY TAMRA TESTERMAN

Shopping guide BY CELESA LUCIEN

Retail resurgence in Taos Ski Valley

56 TAOS HISTORIC MUSEUMS COURTESY ROB NIGHTINGALE

60 HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART COURTESY JUNIPER LEHERISSEY

66 COUSE-SHARP HISTORIC SITE COURTESY DAVISON PACKARD KOENIG

STAFF REPORT

Lodging

Buen provecho! Making green chile stew BY LUCY HERRMAN

130 Arroyo Seco

BY CINDY BROWN

132 Angel Fire 108

134 Eagle Nest

Be a cowboy

136 Red River

BY ELLEN MILLER-GOINS

112

Glamping in yurts

BY ELLEN MILLER-GOINS

BY TAYLOR HOOD

Letter from the editor

96 114

Warm up for winter

Winter fun

Hot drinks for cold weather

Five skiing alternatives

BY JEANS PINEDA

BY ELLEN MILLER-GOINS

25 Remebering 'Red’

Bundle up with a hot breakfast burrito BY DAVID LERNER

The ‘Place de Résistance’ The Blake Hotel STAFF REPORT

28 There’s an app for that

A place for everyone

138 Questa

116

BY TAYLOR HOOD

Winter stargazing

152

BY ELLEN MILLER-GOINS

Calendar

120

Beauty of winter fly-fishing BY TAMRA TESTERMAN

TAO S N E W S S TA F F R o b i n M a r t i n , o w n e r • C h r i s B a k e r, p u b l i s h e r • J o h n M i l l e r, m a n a g i n g e d i t o r • M e g a n J o n e s , m a g a z i n e /c o p y e d i t o r • K a r i n E b e r h a r d t , c r e a t i v e d i r e c t o r • C h r i s Wo o d , a d v e r t i s i n g d i r e c t o r • S h a n e A t k i n s o n , a d v e r t i s i n g m a n a g e r • E m i l y L e e , media specialist • Paul Gutches, production manager • Nathan Burton, photographer • Lynne Robinson, Tempo editor •Skye Hill, digital editor CO NT RIB U T ING WRIT E RS Cin dy B rown, Lucy Herrman, Jeans P i neda, Tamra Testerman, El l en Mi l l er-Go i ns, Davi d Lerner, Cel esa Luci en O N T H E COVE R Mich ae l “Re d” Wage n e r o n Kachi na Peak. P ho to by Mo Kal uta

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PAID POLITICAL ADVERTISEMENT

and Northern New Mexico

I’m proud to represent the people of our northern Mexico community. b New Mex As New Mexic Mexico State Senator for District 6, I work hard to ensure the protection of our valuable cultu cultural and natural resources. Whether you’re coming back for more New adventures or this is your rst visit to our High-Desert Paradise, we're glad to Mexican adve have you here. here Stop and take in the views, savor the green chile, explore the backcountry, and enjoy the shopping.

Roberto “Bobby” J. Gonzales State Senate District 6, Democrat

PAID FOR BY THE COMMITTEE TO RE-ELECT ROBERTO “BOBBY” J. GONZALES DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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IN THE HEART OF THE TAOS HISTORIC DISTRICT DISCOVER OUR UNIQUE SHOPS:

A Stitch in Time Amina’s Children’s Boutique Ammann Gallery Bead Creations Bent Street Cafe & Deli Cici’s Bean - espresso

Clarke & Co. - menswear Common Thread Textiles Coyote Moon Gallery La Tierra Mineral Gallery Las Comadres Gallery Little Place Boutique

John Dunn House Shops, 120–124 Bent Street

MODA Monet’s Kitchen Mooncat Fiber - yarn op.cit Bookshop Seconds Eco Store Steppin’ Out Shoes & Fashions

JohnDunnShops.com

MUSEUMS

HISTORIC BUILDINGS

6 7 11 13 18 23 24

1 2 3 4 5

TAOS.org/100 32

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

E.L. Blumenschein House Harwood Museum of Art Governor Charles Bent House Taos Art Museum at Fechin House Kit Carson Home & Museum Millicent Rogers Museum Hacienda de los Martínez

8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 19 20 21 22

NOTEWORTHY SITES

A Kit Carson Park & Cemetery Taos Plaza B Location of original Hotel La Fonda de Taos Our Lady of Guadalupe Church Historic County Courthouse C Taos Community Auditorium Our Lady of Guadalupe Church D First Presbyterian Church Guadalupe Plaza and Santistevan House E D.H. Lawrence Ranch Padre Martínez House OFF THE MAP La Loma Plaza San Francisco de Asís Church Long John Dunn House Taos Pueblo Bert Phillips House Arroyo Seco Arthur Manby House The Historic Taos Inn El Ríncon Trading Post Walter Ufer Studio Luna Chapel and Sharp Studio Eanger Irving Couse HouseWINTER/SPRING 2022 DISCOVERTAOS.COM Mabel Dodge Luhan House Victor Higgins House

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MOUNTAIN RENAISSANCE

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Seven years into a ten-year, $350 million development plan, a grand vision’s taking shape. Taos Ski Valley’s lower plaza opens this winter with the Blake Residences, new local retailers including Cid’s Mountain Market and the Eis Haus skating rink. The pedestrian village will be a welcoming entrance for winter enthusiasts of all stripes.

A Resort

Reborn

COURTESY TAOS SKI VALLEY

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New menus. Innovation in the face of a pandemic. Pop-up dinners. It’s no surprise to us that the Taos dining scene’s on fire these days. Refined to rustic, hearty to homegrown, somewhere there’s a meal waiting for you that you’ll never forget.

DiningRedefined

MOUNTAIN RENAISSANCE

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TAOS NEW FILE PHOTO

Love. Hope. Success. Family. Security. Some things we all have in common. There’s nobody like me to protect the things we all value. Like a good neighbor, State Farm is there.®

Honored to be Taos’ Best Agency 11 Years Running

Wanda Lucero 575.737.5433 wanda@wandalucero.com

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MOUNTAIN RENAISSANCE

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Find yourself on the mountain. The spirit of discovery lives on and the slopes and trails will lead you to push your limits and get out of your comfort zone.

Adventurous Nature

COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT

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It’s different here. We’re not the cookie-cutter, Colorado mountain town type. With local native heritage dating back over 1,000 years, a Spanish heritage over 400 years and a cradle of visual artists for more than a century, Taos is authentic. Don’t just stay on the slopes. Take in the studios, galleries and nationally recognized museums to round out your visit.

Cultural

Grandeur

MOUNTAIN RENAISSANCE

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TAOS NEW FILE PHOTO

WHY GO THROUGH LIFE THINKING, “WHAT IF?”

PHOTO: GERIANT SMITH

Local knowledge. Expert advice.

Real Estate’s Forever Brand TM

KRISTINE WOOD Associate Broker

cell: 575-770-6258 | kristinewood@newmex.com www.bhhstaos.com

314A Paseo del Pueblo Norte Taos • 575-758-1924 ©2021 BHH Affiliates, LLC. An independently owned and operated franchisee of BHH Affiliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol are registered service marks of Columbia Insurance Company, a Berkshire Hathaway affiliate. Information is deemed to be reliable but is not guaranteed. This is not a solicitation if you are currently working with a real estate broker. Equal Housing Opportunity.

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ARTS & CULTURE

Gaze ‘Through the Eyes of Fechin’ THE HOME OF A RENAISSANCE MAN BY TAMRA TESTERMAN

AFTER AN INVIGORATING morning on the slopes of the Taos Ski Valley, or a high alpine hike, the day may call for some indoor culture, and good local food conveniently close to your destination. Taos is home to many galleries, museums and historic sites, all within an easy drive from the center of town. A favorite for visitors from around the world is Taos Art Museum at Fechin House, 227 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte. The Fechin House, built by Russian artist Nicolai Fechin (1881-1955) is

said to be his love for his family made manifest in art. The 4,000 square-foot, asymmetrical adobe Pueblo and Mission Revival house, with 24-inch walls, is a breathtaking example of Southwest architecture and is an epochal landmark in the architectural landscape of Taos. Fechin’s mastery of metalwork, sculpture, wood carving, painting and drawing is never more clear than in the house that Fechin built. The current exhibition, “Through the Eyes of Fechin” features paintings, drawings, sculptures and photographs from private collections

not exhibited before in the same space.” Taos Art Museum’s executive director Christy Coleman said “this exhibition will provide a unique opportunity to experience Fechin’s world through his keen eye.” Winter visitors can experience this once in a lifetime assemblage of Nicolai Fechin’s work until Jan. 9, 2022. There is also a lovely gift shop in the museum with an eclectic collection of pottery, jewelry, textiles, prints, photographs and more.

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Harmony and balance are a common theme of Fechin’s work.

It may not be possible to capture all the museum has to offer in one afternoon visit, or time to do a docent tour with one of the knowledgeable museum volunteers on hand to lead. But if there were one or two things you should not miss, what would they be?

Executive director Coleman said deciding which two things to see in the Taos Art Museum is challenging, there is so much to explore. “Nicolai Fechin was a true renaissance man, a master of everything from drawing and painting to sculpture and photography, and it’s all spectac-

Taos Art Museum Executive Director Christy Coleman.

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ular. However, perhaps his pièce de résistance is the magnificent Fechin House, which he crafted by hand over five short years. So, I’d like to do a workaround to the question and say the Fechin House is the one “object” to see and highlight some of the beautiful things visitors can discover as they go through the house,” she said.

CONTINUES PAGE 49

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Representing the Historical Classics and the Best Contemporary Artists

San Ildefonso Pottery by Martha Appleleaf and Eric Fender, Santa Clara Pottery by Sharon Naranjo, Taos Drums by Lee Lujan; Navajo Weaving by Charlene Laughing

14K Gold bracelets with Australian Opal and Natural American Turquoise by Gabriel Abrums

Located 3.7 miles south of the Taos Plaza #1 St. Francis Church Plaza, Ranchos De Taos, NM 87557

575-758-0504 | www.chimayotrading.com

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Representing the Historical Classics and the Best Contemporary Artists

Walt Gonske “North San Ysidro, NM” 18”×24” oil on panel

575-758-0504 | www.chimayotrading.com

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$ ' ! ! " #' ! ' " ' ' ' " &

Experience the expertise of local Taos artist's craftsmanship

K rysteen Waszak Contemporary

Plein Air Oil Paintings Colorist Krysteen Waszak, is an adventurous plein air oil painter whose color explorations take her all over the Land of Enchantment and beyond. Waszak’s contemporary painting style and color handling has a surprisingly modern feel, untraditional in plein air. For more information visit www.krysteenwaszak.com

Studios in Taos & Albuquerque. Studio visits by appointment.

505-250-0455

www.krysteenwaszak.com Autumn On The Taos Ski Valley Road Plein air oil on canvas 40x40

krysteen@krysteenwaszak.com instagram/krysteenwaszakart

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40 Years of Fine Native & Southwestern Arts

121 KIT CARSON ROAD • TAOS NM • 575.758.9407 BRYANSGALLERY.COM DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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ONE PIECE OF ART TO SEE THIS WINTER

Millicent Rogers Museum BY GRETA BRUNSCHWYLER, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM

“THE PIECE THAT I WOULD SUGGEST VISITORS PONDER this winter is the ‘Buffalo Dance’ painting by Dorothy Brett in gallery one of the Millicent Rogers Museum. This painting shows the vibrancy of thanksgiving towards our natural world that we all should remember to embrace.”

“Buffalo Dance” painting by Dorothy Brett. Courtesy Millicent Rogers Museum.

FOR MORE INFORMATION Millicent Rogers Museum is located in El Prado, at 1504 Millicent Rogers Rd. Call (575) 758-2462 or visit millicentrogers.org.

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Authentic Taos with a modern flair. 127 BENT STREET • TAOS • 575.758.79655 joneswalkeroftaos.com

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Fire & Ice 39 - 30” x 40”

www.marystrattonart.com marystrattonart@aol.com 575-770-0760 • 102 Dona Luz, Taos, NM 87571 (West of the Plaza and behind US Bank)

GUS FOSTER

PANORAMIC PHOTOGRAPHS OF NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

Wheeler Peak, Wheeler Peak Wilderness, 1987, 360 degree panoramic photograph

October 23, 2021 – April 17, 2022 Harwood Museum of Art 238 Ledoux St. Taos, NM 87571 harwoodmuseum.org

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ONE PIECE OF ART TO SEE THIS WINTER

Taos Historic Museums Blumenschein Home and Museum BY ROB NIGHTINGALE, VICE PRESIDENT OF TAOS HISTORIC MUSEUMS

THE “CHURCH AT RANCHOS” 1921, oil on canvas, Ernest Blumenschein, represents to me, Taos. This painting captures the pure essence of historical Taos. The Saint Francis de Assisi church as been a gathering place for well over two hundred years. A home for the faithful. A home for community. Later a home for visual interpretation for artists around the globe. Annually the community comes together for the ‘Enjarre’ (The re-mudding of the exterior). This painting is on display at the Blumenschein Home and Museum. Giclee prints on canvas (three sizes) are available for purchase, which benefit the Taos Historic Museums (THM). THMs’ (The Hacienda de los Martinez and The Blumenschein Home and Museum) goal is to keep this history alive within the community and for visitors. Our president and others just recently completed the ‘Enjarre’ of the Hacienda de los Martinez. This project is costly and with his help and others the costs were kept down. However, it should be done annually to keep ahead of the game of deterioration. All donations raised and memberships help us maintain the structures and keep both properties open and available for the public to view, take in and imagine the grand adventurous times of the past of Taos.

The “Church at Ranchos” by Ernest Blumenschein. Courtesy Taos Historic Museums.

FOR MORE INFORMATION Taos Historic Museum Blumenschein Home and Museum is located at 222 Ledoux Street in Taos. Call 575-758-0505 or visit taoshistoricmuseums.org..

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ONE PIECE OF ART TO SEE THIS WINTER

Harwood Museum of Art BY JUNIPER LEHERISSEY, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART

WHILE MY PERSONAL FAVORITE IN THE HARWOOD MUSEUM right now is Jennifer Steinkamp’s mesmerizing sway of Bouquet I in the “Remote Possibilities: Digital Landscapes” from the Thoma Foundation Collection exhibition, the piece that I think is the most provocative and warrants deeper observation is Kent Monkman’s “The Symposium.” Kent Monkman, a Canadian First Nations artist of Cree and Irish ancestry, is known internationally for his historical revisionist paintings that recreate works that inspired Westward Expansion like those by Thomas Moran and Alfred Bierstadt, but meaningfully places an Indigenous artist at the canvas, spotlighting the power of representation of landscape; asking who is doing the representing and who is narrating history. In “Symposium,” Monkman recreates the 1805 painting of the Acropolis in Athens by Theodore Turpin de Chrisse, with one significant addition: a Native American in full headdress painting at an easel. The subversive and comedic work challenges the narrative of the original painting and the prominence of singular stories from the “victors” of history.

Jennifer Steinkamp, “Bouquet I”. Courtesy Harwood Museum of Art.

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Local Art

Gifts

Handcrafted Native American Jewelry

Celebrate Life’s Special Moments

115 E Plaza Space 4, Taos taosaccessories2001@gmail.com 575-758-4073 BUSINESS · 575-776-6370 CELL taosaccessories.com

SEE WHERE IT ALL BEGAN COUSE-SHARP HISTORIC SITE in the heart of Taos includes the homes and studios of E. I. Couse and J. H. Sharp—two founders of the TAOS SOCIETY OF ARTISTS in 1915—plus the lab and machine shop of inventor Kibbey Couse. The exhibition space of our LUNDER RESEARCH CENTER is now open; the whole museum facility is set to open in mid-2022.

Experience the best-kept secret of Taos art and history

Where Art and Architecture Meet

Research Center gallery open noon–4 Tue–Sat Docent-led historic site tours by appointment Visit our website to book and ﬁnd out more 138 & 146 Kit Carson Road, Taos, NM 87571 575 .751.0369 | admin@couse-sharp.org thecousesharphistoricsite cousesharp Couse Sharp TAOS, NEW MEXICO TAOS C

couse-sharp.org p

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ONE PIECE OF ART TO SEE THIS WINTER

Harwood Museum of Art

AS ARTICULATED BY OUR CURATOR, Nicole Dial-Kay, “It is important that anyone visiting or living in the West experience this work of art as it compels us all to reconsider the beautiful landscape as something not just to be consumed through vacation must-see checklists and Instagrammable photographs, but as a powerful propaganda tool in American history. The representation of the American West in paintings and photographs of the late 19th and early 20th century compelled Westward Expansion and the attempted genocide of its original inhabitants. What would have been different in American history if the tools of representation had been in the hands of Native American peoples?” This is a unique treat to see six internationally recognized digital artists featured in Taos. This exhibition sourced from the vast Thoma Foundation art collection is open through Feb. 2022. All the exhibitions at the Harwood Museum through the winter create dialogue around landscape and our relationship to it and its original inhabitants.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Kent Monkam, “The Symposium” Courtesy Harwood Museum of Art

Harwood Museum of Art is located at 238 Ledoux Street in Taos. Call 575758-9826 or visit harwoodmuseum.org

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REMOTE P OSSIBILITIES

O C TO B E R 23, 2O 21 – A P R I L 17, 2 O 2 2

Digital Landscapes from the Thoma Foundation Collection

GUS FOSTER: PANORAMIC PHOTOGRAPHS OF NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

O C TO B E R 9, 2O 21 – F E B R UA RY 27, 2O 2 2

www.harwoodmuseum.org

Jennifer Steinkamp (1958- ), Bouquet I (detail), 2013. Generative custom software animation (color, silent), computer, QSPKFDUPS *OTUBMMBUJPO Y JO SBUJP *OmOJUF MPPQ $PMMFDUJPO PG UIF $BSM .BSJMZOO 5IPNB 'PVOEBUJPO ª +FOOJGFS 4UFJOLBNQ DPVSUFTZ PG UIF $BSM .BSJMZOO 5IPNB 'PVOEBUJPO QIPUP CZ +PTFQI 3ZOLJFXJD[ (VT 'PTUFS Sunset, Moonrise, Highline Ridge ¡ BSDIJWBM QJHNFOU QSJOU $PVSUFTZ PG UIF BSUJTU

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A Lifetime of Painting

P.J. Garoutte “The Amber Lights of Autumn” 20x48 o/c

Don Brackett, “October Rain in the Rockies” 18x24 o/c

See our Paintings at Wilder Nightingale Fine Arts (Taos) and Manitou Galleries (Santa Fe) DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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ONE PIECE OF ART TO SEE THIS WINTER

Couse-Sharp Historic Site BY DAVISON PACKARD KOENIG, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR AND CURATOR

IF I WERE TO CHOOSE JUST ONE PIECE OF ART TO EXPERIENCE, I would recommend Mark Maggiori’s painting “Buffalo Dancer” in the Lunder Research Center. During Mark’s 2020 artist-in-residency here in the Sharp studio, he was introduced to the Couse archives. This includes the 11,000 original contact prints that the artist E. I. Couse produced in his lifetime, which were being digitized. Inspired by this treasure trove of historic photos, largely never before seen, he began a series of portraits of Taos Pueblo models. Mark’s panting of Antonio Lujan, stares back at us through time with such intensity and power, proud of his past and assured of his future, it is a must see.

It could not be more fitting for us to open The Lunder Research Center with this series. Mark’s artwork is a compelling example of why archives matter. We built an archive and research center for early Taos art so that artists, scholars, and the public can be inspired. The legacy of the Taos Society of Artists, in many ways, rests with this new generation of artists. This piece will be on display until Jan. 8, 2022 at Couse-Sharp Historic Site. Tours by appointment: Tuesday through Friday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Call 575-751-0369.

Mark Maggiori, Buffalo Dancer, 2021, Oil on linen, 40”x28” Couse-Sharp Historic Site, museum purchase, 2021 PHOTO: BILL CURRY

FOR MORE INFORMATION Couse-Sharp Historic Site is located at 146 Kit Carson Road in Taos. Call 575751-0369 or visit couse-sharp.org.

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Capturing the eclectic spirit of our community, representing both global & local artisans

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RENEUX CONSIGNMENTS CLOTHING. FURNITURE. BOOTS

Craft Supplies • Found Objects • Classes

WE HAVE WINTER COATS, SWEATERS, AND SNOW BOOTS TOO! OPEN DAILY 10-5 PM

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LOCATED JUST OFF OF THE HISTORIC TAOS PLAZA

LODGING

VACATION RENTALS FOR ANY PRICE RANGE UNDER T H E D O M E

BY TAYLOR HOOD

Geodesic Earth Dome TAOS |

$145

For visitors looking for an amazing, unique experience, without going broke, there is the Geodesic dome in El Prado. “The dome is 30 feet across, with a bedroom loft space, an old c lawfoot bathtub, a composting toilet, a little kitchen and open floor plan. We have a lovely walking trail right out the door,” explains the description. The space is small, but in the winter in Taos, it quickly turns from “small” to “cozy.”

A Place for

Everyone 78

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CLOSE TO THE ACTION  Casa Tewa - Beautiful Retreat 2 Blocks from Plaza TAOS |

$387

“Casa Tewa celebrates the Native American Tewa culture which has occupied the upper Rio Grande valley for over a thousand years.” That is the owner Judy’s opening pitch on AirBnb and it sums up the style of the space nicely. It is an early Spanish Pueblo Revolt Revival home, but it was updated in 2019, making it state-of-the-art as well. This space is easily worth the price as it offers a full, immersive Taos experience, with local fine art decorating the interior. Outside, guests can bask in the private hot tub, among the snows of the Taos wilderness.

FIRST OF ITS KIND

SKI IN, SKI OUT

IN THE PINES

SO GOOD IT YURTS

First Earthship ever built, now refurbished

Spruce Haos: Taos Ski Valley Alpine Escape

The Treehouse: A Rejuvenating Taos Experience

Wonderful 16 ft Yurt with spectacular views

TAOS |

$145

If you are traveling to Taos, there is a good chance you have heard of the Earthships. But for those who haven’t, outside of Taos there is a community of homes called “Earthships.” An Earthship is a style of architecture developed in the late 20th century to early 21st century by architect Michael Reynolds. Earthships are designed to behave as passive solar earth shelters made of both natural and upcycled materials such as earthpacked tires. With this rental, guests will experience unique living and earn bragging rights that they stayed in the first Earthship ever built.

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TAOS |

$300

A luxurious cabin in the snowy woods with room for nine guests may be just the ticket for a big winter get together. This remodeled cabin sits a half mile from the resort basin in Taos Ski Valley. Yes, this property requires a 4-Wheel drive vehicle to get down the road in the winter months, but the isolation is one of its appeals. The Spruce Haos offers a comfortable stay in a space with any number of rustic accoutrements, from the copper sinks with a fine patina, to the wood burning stove. But don’t worry, there is also wifi and Apple TV+.

TAOS |

$141

The Treehouse is a serene retreat close to the Rio Pueblo. Isolated and quiet, this cozy space is perfect for rejuvenating the spirit, calming the mind, and pampering the body. But you can, of course, have your cake and eat it to at this property, which can accommodate between 3 (with just The Treehouse) and 11 (if you choose to rent the other two spaces, The Barn and The Loft) guests. That’s because it also includes easy access to the Plaza and Taos Ski Valley.

RANCHOS DE TAOS |

Just because you may be traveling on a budget, doesn’t mean you can’t have an adventure that is both unique and comfortable. Let us introduce you to a secret from the heart of Central Asia, a secret to a near-perfect architectural style: the yurt (or “yurta” in Russian, “ger” in Mongolian.) A round, single-room dwelling draped in fabric. This particular yurt is set on 1.5 acres in the piñon and juniper trees just outside of Taos. With no running water, it is still roughing it, but it’s roughing it in style.

Making our guests feel at home & our homeowners feel like guests. Our boutique-style service, expansive marketing reach, and dedicated sales efforts are proven to ensure we maximize your revenue while maintaining the integrity of your Taos Ski Valley home.

Contact us to receive a free rental projection for your property. Matthew Foeppel, Taos Ski Valley General Manager m.foeppel@naturalretreats.com • 575.779.2028

BIENVENIDOS A TAOS!

TAOS PUEBLO’S HAIL CREEK TRAVEL CENTER Stop by and Visit Taos’ Newest Travel Center

Affordable Gas & Cigarettes

Convenient Northside location at corner of Hail Creek and US 64

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317 Kit Carson Rd., Taos | 855.846.8267 | ElMonteSagrado.com DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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LODGING

The place de résistance THE BLAKE HOTEL

JUST A FEW STEPS AWAY from the slopes, The Blake Hotel is a place where skiers can relax after a long day in the snow. This luxurious alpine hotel features 80 rooms, a spa and wellness center, pool and fitness center, a restaurant and tapas bar that is currently closed (at press time), a ski valet in the winter, art installations and

Hausmeisters who are there to meet all of the guests’ needs. Featuring imposing Austrian alpine architecture and the warmth of traditional European hospitality, The Blake is a delightful boutique hotel that is considered the gem of Taos Ski Valley lodging. The lodge has luxury penthouses and suites with all the essential modern conveniences

and amenities and a sophisticated aesthetic. Those who stay at The Blake can expect the finest service and to have the best winter vacation in Taos Ski Valley. The penthouses and suites have gas fireplaces. The penthouses, located on the fifth floor have balconies.

WHEN YOU NEED to reinvigorate and renew, head to the spa at The Blake. The spa and wellness center at The Blake has an oxygen bar and massage therapists. Visitors to the mountain, who may not be staying in the hotel, are still welcome to book massages and get day passes to the spa where they may enjoy the relaxing waters of the hot tubs, steam rooms, showers, and a heated saltwater pool, as well as the fitness center and a yoga room. The spa and wellness center is open CONTINUES PAGE 84 PHOTOS COURTESY TAOS SKI VALLEY

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LODGING

year-round. All guests age 15 and younger must be accompanied by a paying adult. The spa is open Thursday through Monday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Day passes are available 7 days a week. For longer-term needs, The Blake Residences (as pictured here) has vacation rentals centrally located in the village close to shopping. These 24 private residences offer more amenities for people staying at Taos Ski Valley longer than a few days. The Blake Residences also house some retail shops and businesses (see more on P. 74).

THE BLAKE 116 Sutton Pl, Taos Ski Valley (855) 385-0437 skitaos.com/theblake

IN 2019, THE BLAKE AT TAOS SKI VALLEY was named the Best Ski Hotel by the 2019 USA Today 10 Best Readers’ Choice travel award contest.

PHOTOS COURTESY TAOS SKI VALLEY

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w w w .10 0 0 0 w a g s . c o m

Ski Season

is here! Whether heading to Taos Ski Valley to lay tracks or coasting down the mountain for a day on the town... this winter, the RTD BLUE BUS has yyou covered.

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1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur

DINING/ENTERTAINMENT

The best breakfast burrito in Taos BY DAVID LERNER

TAOSEÑOS ARE SERIOUS about their breakfast burritos. Whether it’s handheld or smothered with chile and cheese, a great breakfast burrito is more than the sum of its parts. Like all simple, regional dishes, the classic New Mexican breakfast burrito is only as good as the treatment of each ingredient. Scrambled eggs must be creamy with pillowy curds – pallid, overcooked eggs are a strict deal breaker. Diced or shredded potatoes should be properly browned and seasoned. A smattering of green chile is essential, and sautéed onion is a nice touch. Shredded cheese, preferably the yellow, annatto-colored variety, should be evenly distributed so that a harmony of egg, potato, chile, and cheese is achieved with each bite. Finally, the white flour tortilla should be griddled to crisp golden perfection. A soggy or gummy tortilla is the telltale sign of an unloved burrito; these are to be avoided at all costs. According to the above criteria, top marks in the handheld breakfast burrito category go to Mante’s Chow Cart. Mantes has been in business since 1973, and for good reason. Their breakfast burrito is the gold standard

Don’t forget the extra chile, it’s 75 cents well spent. For late risers who believe breakfast all day is a human right, friendly Rosa’s Tacos, Burritos y Más in Ranchos de Taos deserves special praise for serving breakfast burritos until 3 p.m. One of their massive rolls at three will keep you rolling well past midnight. Lastly, Leonel’s Tamales is a strong but underrated contender. Leonel’s light, fluffy tortillas are made in-house, elevating their burrito game from very good to excellent. Other serviceable on-the-go options include Cid’s, Blake’s Lotaburger, Toribio’s, and Antonio’s The Taste of Mexico. Clearly, Taos County is not experiencing an affordable breakfast burrito crisis just yet! Mary Jane’s is an unpretentious food truck serving hearty breakfast burritos until 11a.m., Monday – Friday. If you eat meat, their chorizo add-on gets raves from locals.

– a consistently tasty marriage of quality preparation, simplicity, and bold flavors. Nearby Mary Jane’s is an unpretentious food truck serving hearty breakfast burritos until 11a.m., Monday – Friday. If you eat meat, their chorizo add-on gets raves from locals.

North of town, Greg and Jason at Midtown Market in Arroyo Hondo offer a variety of delicious breakfast burritos to go, all made fresh daily. The welcome addition of whole pinto beans skews this heavy wrap towards a California-style mission burrito, but their piquant green chile packs enough punch to remind you that you’re just a few short miles from the Rio Grande. Up the gorgeous Hondo-Seco road, find Abe’s Cantina in Arroyo Seco, a longtime local favorite. When I visited recently, they were closed due to a family emergency, but if memory serves, their breakfast burrito (offered with sausage) was a deliciously greasy umami bomb, perfect for scarfing in the car before a Ski Valley hike. Just be sure to call ahead. If you strike out at Abe’s, fear not. Adjacent Taos Cow, Sol Food Café, and Wake and Take all have you covered. Although they’re best known for their lovely lavender ice cream, the folks at Taos Cow know their way around breakfast. Likewise, Wake and Take’s innovative anytime vegan burrito—stuffed with potatoes, green chile, tempeh bacon, Anasazi beans, miso vinaigrette, and pickled onion – is a healthy but no less savory option to start the day. If you’re dining in, consider the smothered burrito. The interplay of rich, vegetal chile and melted cheese makes a proper smothered burrito a peak breakfast experience, even if it requires the use of pesky utensils. Taos Diner II has the best smothered burrito and is a favorite for their mildly spiced and vegetarian green and red chiles. You can chose one or the other or both. Vegans take note: Taos Diner II offers a tofu scramble option. Alternately, for those who need their early bacon fix, try their beloved Charles Bur-

Taos Diner's 2 pound burrito, ‘The Charles’ can be smothered in both red and green chile. CONTINUES PAGE 100 TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTOS

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DINING/ENTERTAINMENT

BREAKFAST BURRITOS rito. Sadly, gluten-free breakfast burritos are currently difficult to source, but most restaurants will do their best to accommodate all dietary preferences. Michael’s

Kitchen Restaurant and Bakery serves massive portions of Nuevo Mexicano breakfast fare all day, including their signature Martin’s breakfast burrito. I dare you to finish

it. Bearclaw Bakery is an unassuming spot offering delicious baked goods and pastries, but don’t overlook their smothered burrito. Chef Anthony Archuleta, a Taos Pueblo native, has been serving them since 2014. Ricky’s Restaurant also receives high praise for their handheld and smothered offerings. And though best known as a bustling lunch spot, La Cueva Café has a breakfast burrito beckoning on their menu. In my quest for the best breakfast burrito in Taos, I left no stone unturned. I even perfected my own at-home variety. Still, undiscovered gems no doubt await the intrepid explorer willing to scour Dixon, Red River, Questa, Cerro, Costilla, and southern Colorado in search of that elusive je ne sais quoi of the perfect breakfast burrito. Happy hunting!

The smothered burrito at Taos Diner II is covered in green chile sauce but it can be ordered with red chile or both (Christmas.) COURTESY DAVID LERNER

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Taos’ BEST Mexican Restaurant

2015 to 2021

Winter Hours: Sun–Thu 10am–8:30pm Fri–Sat 10:30am–9pm

Serving Domestic & Import mport Beers • Wine • Margaritas

NORTH SIDE

822 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte 575-737-0816

SOUTH SIDE

1384 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur 575-751-0063

guadalajaragrilltaos.com 102

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medley.

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Best Food & Service in Taos

Tues-Saturday 11am-9pm Enjoy Happy Hour 3-6pm: Full Bar & Tapas 575-751-3020 martyrssteakhouse.com

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ADVENTURE

WITH OVER 300 DAYS OF sunshine a year, hiking is possible in and around Taos throughout the winter. Being in nature on a brisk day with the sun sparkling on fresh snowfall is good for the body and soul. Winter hiking requires a bit more gear, but with a little planning you can have a pleasant and safe trail experience. At lower elevations trails may be clear of snow, while those at higher elevations are likely to have snowier conditions. Be sure to check weather forecasts and consult local outfitters and other local resources as you plan your hike.

TOP TRAILS TO HIKE BY CINDY BROWN

104

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COURTESY CINDY BROWN

LOWER ELEVATION HIKES

Big Arsenic Trail Big Arsenic Trail is a hike at the Wild Rwivers area north of Taos. The trail goes from the ridge of the Río Grande Gorge down to the river and Big Arsenic Springs. When you reach the river continue on to the right (north) to look for petroglyphs. Be on the look-out for big horn sheep and other wildlife. Level of difficulty: Moderate Elevation: Begins at 7,500 feet and descends 700 feet Miles round-trip: 2-3 miles Directions: From Taos Plaza, head north on Paseo del Pueblo (NM 522) for 27 miles. Pass through Questa and look for the Wild Rivers turnoff on the left (NM 378). Follow this road 3.5 miles to the entrance of Wild Rivers. Go south another 8 miles, head right at the split to reach the trailhead.

Trader’s Trail at Taos Valley Overlook This trail over gently rolling hills goes through the sage and juniper-covered landscape to the rim of the Río Pueblo. From this point, there are views down to confluence of the Rio Pueblo and the Rio Grande. Trader’s Trail is part of a network of trails open to hiking, mountain biking, and horse back riding. During the winter months, look for bald eagles cruising the gorge and big horn sheep. Level of difficulty: Easy Elevation: 7,000 feet; 200 foot descent toward the rim of the gorge Miles round-trip: 3 miles Directions: Go 10 miles south of Taos Plaza on Paseo del Pueblo (NM 68). Look for the brown hiker sign on the right just past mile marker 36.

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ADVENTURE

HIGHER ELEVATION HIKES

Devisadero

Amole

This hike is just east of Taos. It is a loop that goes to the top of Devisadero Peak and is a good winter hike due to its south-facing slope. The trail climbs through desert landscape into the forest and has views into Taos.

Only about 30 minutes from downtown, Amole Canyon has a trail that climbs towards Gallegos Peak and also lower elevation loops used for cross country skiing and snowshoeing. For the trail to the peak, walk up the road from the trailhead parking and look for the sign that says number 182. The cross country loops are directly across the road; avoid walking in the cross country ski tracks.

Level of difficulty: Mostly moderate with some steeper sections Elevation: Begins at 7,200 feet and climbs 1,100 feet

Level of difficulty: Moderate towards the peak; easier on the loops Elevation: Begins at 8,300 feet; ends at 9,300 feet at the peak Miles round-trip: 4 miles Directions: From Taos Plaza, head south 3 miles to NM 518. Turn left and drive 14 miles to reach the entrance to Amole Canyon on Forest Road 703. If the gate is closed, park here. If it is open drive a half mile up a dirt road to the trailhead parking on the right.

Miles round-trip: 5 miles Directions: From Taos Plaza, take Kit Carson Road (US 64) 2.8 miles to the trailhead parking lot on the right.

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Two roads diverged in a wood and I - I took the one less traveled. – ROBERT FROST

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ADVENTURE

DON’T LIKE SKIING?

BY ELLEN MILLER-GOINS

No doubt sitting by a crackling fire under a warm blanket is wonderful but if you choose this option, you are missing out on a truth: being outdoors in Northern New Mexico during the winter is magical, beautiful, exhilarating and … fun! If you consider skiing or snowboarding to be a hard no, Northern New Mexico offers myriad options for enjoying wintertime in the Land of Enchantment. Here are five great alternatives to enjoy some winter adventure. 1

Ice Skating Check out the new Eis Haus ice skating rink at Taos Ski Valley. Rentals are included for skating afternoons and evenings all season long and spectators will enjoy rink-adjacent seating next to large built-in fireplaces. Taos’ Youth & Family Center is open for rentals and skate lessons — beginner to advanced, children to adults — through the Skating Club of Taos. Helmets and safety equipment are also available at the skate rental counter.

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Snowmobiling Few thrills can beat speeding over a snow-packed meadow or navigating along a tree-lined mountain lane. Visitors can find guided tours in Taos Ski Valley and Red River as well as tracked 6-passenger OHV tours in Red River. WINTER/SPRING 2022

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ADVENTURE

The breathtaking beauty OF WINTER FLY-FISHING IN NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

Got a license? Be fully prepared

BY TAMRA TESTERMAN

WEAR LAYERS

There is a stark, solitary beauty to being on a river in the winter. The bigger animals native to our region are mostly in hibernation, most of the birds have migrated to warmer climes, there are fewer people on the roads and in the woods, and there is a breathtaking stillness not found any other time of year.

New Mexico can get chilly. Temperatures can fluctuate. Don’t forget the sunscreen and protection like hats and long sleeves. Bring blankets just in case.

of the thermometer, the trout gravitate to deep, slow holding water. Midges and mayflies are the predominant food source on the Red River and they can be found throughout. Red River is a 30 minute drive from Taos and is a winter fishery haven from October through early April. The Red River provides anglers an unparalleled opportunity to fish and ski on the same trip to Taos. A myriad of springs flow into the river, increasing the flows and keeping the water temperatures in the optimum trout fishing range between 45 to 60 degrees.

COURTESY OF BLUE YONDER FLY-FISHING

orthern New Mexico is home to world-class fly-fishing rivers, creeks and streams. You’ll find an impressive assortment of trout: Rio Grande cutthroat, Rainbows, Browns, Brookies and Cutbows. You’ll also find some of the most passionate fishing guides anywhere who revel in the sport year-round and are wellequipped to give both the seasoned angler and beginner the experience of a lifetime. Joey Phillips, owner of Blue Yonder Fly-fishing is one of them. His clients come from all over the world to fish all four seasons, and in the winter, some want a fresh powder morning on the slopes of the Taos Ski Valley, and an afternoon on the Red River angling for the elusive trout. Others are keen to stay for a few days or more 120

fishing multiple locations. Phillips knows the waters of Northern New Mexico, and is an expert fly- fisherman. Phillips said winter fly-fishing is special for many reasons. “The places we fish are less populated, the wildlife is quiet and it’s really serene. There are world-class winter fishing waters in Northern New Mexico. The San Juan River which is famous for its winter trout fishing, being a tailwater, the water remains 42 degrees year round. The Rio Grande is a spring-fed, freestone river so it is constantly flowing, maintaining temperatures and flows great for trout fishing yearround.” Another advantage of winter fishing is when the water temperatures are at the low end

Phillips has worked the streams, rivers and creeks of Northern New Mexico and the world for decades. He is a former fishing guide for Ted Turner, Jane Fonda, George Strait and other celebrities, and a venerated teacher of the sport to thousands. He began guiding as an occupation at the Ted Turner Vermejo Park Ranch where he started as a bartender. Although he’d been practicing the sport since he was a teenager, he’d not yet considered pursuing his passion as a vocation. After work at the ranch, Phillips fished with the seasoned fishing guides at the ranch. His skills honed from years of practice and mentoring from the Northern New Mexico fly-fishing legend Chuck Rizzuto impressed them, and he was invited to lead expeditions not only in New Mexico but also for Ted Turner to the Tierra del Fuego region of Argentina and Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula. Phillips said in any direction from Taos, within an hour or less, you’ll find some of the best trout

BRING GOOD GEAR

If you are new to ice fishing and don’t have a seasoned expert going with you, hire a local guide and ask them to help you select an ice fishing rod and some kind of seating. Bring a hand auger and ice scoop and a sled to haul your gear. DO YOUR RESEARCH ON BAIT

For ice fishing, there are many options from a basic ice jig tipped with wax worms and salmon eggs to moonshine silver minnows that glow in the dark. Google it thoroughly ahead of time. BRING SHELTER

There are plenty of options in every price range. STAY HYDRATED

Don’t forget snacks and water bottles — bring more than enough for the whole gang.

fishing in North America. From the spring-fed canyons of the Rio Grande and the Cimarron River to the high-mountain streams Rio de Los Piños, the Red River and the Rio Costilla, and a bevy of small creeks. Northern New Mexico affords a diverse fly-fishing experience. He started his guide company, Blue Yonder Fly-fishing, to share his love of the sport and do what he loves best: teaching beginners and being in nature. Phillips said he enjoys seeing a beginner catch their first trout, or that magic moment when there is a “strike” on their line.

GET A HOT TUB

YOU’LL FEEL BETTER

Blue Yonder Fly-fishing provides all the equipment you’ll need to enjoy a morning or afternoon on the river this winter. Waders, rods, and flys. All you need is to dress for the weather and a fishing license. Phillips suggests dressing warmer than you would on the slopes or doing vigorous activity. There is a lot of standing still, which means you get cold faster, but the rewards are plenty and you will forget about the temperature when the fish are biting, and the beauty of a winter day on the river stays with you long after you’ve gone home.

Ice fishing: fun for the whole family When you think of the desert of New Mexico, the first thing that comes to mind is probably not ice fishing. But believe it or not, it’s growing in popularity. All you need to do is research, plan and wait for the right conditions for ice fishing. Eagle Nest Lake is a popular ice fishing spot about 45 minutes from Taos. Be sure to call ahead and make sure the lake is open for fishing before you make the drive. When you call, ask the park service for any guidance they can provide for safety on the ice and picking a good spot. “Eagle Nest Lake is probably the most popular ice fishing lake in New Mexico,” said Eric Frey, sport fish program manager for the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish. He also said “this 2,200-acre lake sits at 8,300 feet in elevation, has stunning mountain views and usually freezes hard enough every year to entertain ice fishermen.” The lake is full of rainbow trout, northern pike, yellow perch and kokanee salmon. Anglers say PowerBait, corn and jigs work best to get the fish biting. DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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OPEN MONDAY – SATURDAY 10AM – 6PM • 758-1857 • 1210J SALAZAR ROAD

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TAOS PUEBLO

Taos Pueblo: Living history Taos Pueblo is not just a historic site but home to many traditions

PHOTO: RICK ROMANCITO

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KNOWN AS THE OLDEST CONTINUOUSLY inhabited community in the United States, the main areas of the present Taos Pueblo were most likely constructed between 1000 and 1450 AD. The pueblo is designated a Unesco World Heritage Site along with other historic places like Macchu Picchu, Stonehenge, Easter Island, Rome, Venice and the Taj Mahal. It is also designated a National Historic Landmark. It is the only living Native American community to hold both designations. Some of those who call Taos Pueblo and its over 111,000 acres of land home are artisans and create beautiful things or handcraft products like soaps and home goods. In 2020, the pueblo was closed to visitors due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Though not public events, the people of Taos Pueblo still manage to find ways to celebrate their cultural heritage and preserve ancient traditions. These rituals and customs have been observed for more than 1,000 COVID-19 UPDATE years without interruption and through Taos Pueblo has been closed wars, famines, pandemics and other major to visitors due to coronavirus historic occurrences. Before the pandemic, precautions since March 11, 2020. Pueblo and other busithe pueblo regularly welcomed guests and ness operations are affected. visitors to join their families for Feast Days Due to ongoing precautionary measures, please contact and ceremonial dances. offices directly for updated Feast Days and native dances are vital for preserving the Pueblo cultural heritage. When the pueblo reopens, visitors and guests must be invited into a home to visit and/or share a Feast Day meal. After a dance ends, it is disrespectful to applaud because these are not performances — the dances are ceremonial and being asked to attend and witness these dances is a great honor. Visitors should refrain from talking to community members about the meaning of the dance and should not speak to the dancers. During religious ceremonies, cameras and cellphones are not allowed and can be confiscated (and not returned) if this rule is violated.

hours and availability.

To find out when the pueblo will reopen, inquire about ceremony times in 2022 or request information, call 575-758-1028.

Taos Pueblo rules and regulations The Red Willow River that flows from sacred Blue Lake to the Río Grande is the pueblo's main source of drinking water. So please don't walk in it. Blue Lake mountain areas and lands outside Pueblo walls are off-limits to visitors. Photography at non-Feast Day events are for personal use only. Any other commercial, documentary, educational use or artist renderings must have prior approval (inquire with the tourism office). No photography, cellphone use or recording devices permitted during Feast Days out of respect and to prevent exploitation. On non-Feast Days, ask permission before

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taking a picture of any Taos Pueblo member. Because families still reside in the original structure, there are privacy issues. Only doors clearly marked as a business may be entered. The pueblo has been a major place of trade for centuries, which is still evident by the various businesses on and around the main pueblo plaza. Most shops accept credit cards and all goods are tax-free. Any areas and pathways that are off-limits to visitors are clearly marked. Other rules state pets must be leashed, and climbing on ladders or buildings is strictly prohibited.

HOURS

ENTRANCE FEES

CONTACT

When not on lockdown: Mon.-Sat. 8 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.; Sun. 8:30a.m.-4:30 p.m. (except for tribal ritual closures).

When not on lockdown, call for current fees for adults, students (11 and older, includes college ID), groups of six or more, children 10 and under, free.

(575) 758-1028 taospueblo.com

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TAOS SKI VALLEY

COURTESY TAOS SKI VALLEY

Mountain renaissance TAOS SKI VALLEY HAS ANNOUNCED several new features and experiences available to visitors this winter in a recent press release. As part of its $300 million mountain renaissance, the resort has also raised staff wages and acquired more AVI (avalanche rescue) dogs. Opening day for the ski season at Taos Ski Valley is Thursday, Nov. 25 and the season will run through Sunday, April 3, 2022. “Taos is different because of our people, our varied terrain and our values, which compel us to think first and foremost about our community and our environment,” said David Norden, CEO of Taos Ski Valley. “This winter, our visitors will enjoy the benefits of Taos Ski Valley’s renaissance while still having the pure mountain experience that has defined our resort for almost seventy years. Our goal is to deliver a world-class adventure on an intimate scale.” Visitors to Taos Ski Valley can look forward to enjoying these new features and experiences: INTRODUCING THE NEW EIS HAUS ICE-SKATING RINK Central to the renovated plaza, Eis Haus adds a new winter experience to the Taos mix. Skaters of all abilities and ages will enjoy ice-skating in the afternoons and evenings all season long.

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Large built-in fireplaces with seating adjacent to the ice offer a terrific place for family and friend to watch and socialize after a day on the mountain. Skate rentals are included and skating starts at just $20 for the afternoons and $25 for the evenings.

DINNER SLEIGH RIDE On Friday and Saturday nights, family and friends can relax in a sleigh ride to the award-winning Bavarian restaurant where they can enjoy a three course prix-fixe dinner, complete with wine. Thick cozy blankets keep the chill at bay while guests receive an exhilarating and memorable roundtrip ride under the stars. A NEW PLAZA AND MOUNTAIN ENTRY AREA In-ground radiant heat, new fire pits for small gatherings, and a new skier services building with a variety of independently owned retail the new lower plaza area gives skiers and riders a smoother and more efficient entry to the main mountain area. The plaza area also includes a ticket kiosk for expedited self-service. CONTINUES PAGE 127

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the snowboarding movement – became “Free Tacos” when a sticker company ran spellcheck on the group’s order. IMPROVED SNOW CONDITIONS Using a new state-of-the-art snowcat, 13 new high efficiency snow guns and enhanced snowmaking pipes, Taos will have improved snow conditions all season long on its most popular runs throughout the mountain. PARKING EASE PHOTOS COURTESY TAOS SKI VALLEY

NEW PRO-GUIDED MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCES For intermediate-to-expert skiers and riders looking for an adrenaline-pumping adventure that includes hiking, finding secret stashes, and expert advice for TSV's double-black diamond runs, TSV now offers personal, professional ski and ride guides for a full-day or a half-day. This tailored experience helps skiers and riders make the most of the days on the mountain while offering them insight into the local history, terrain and region. SKI STRONG™️ GOLD MEDALIST EXPERIENCE Exclusive to Taos, Olympic Gold Medalist Deb Armstrong will host four, three-day Ski Strong sessions that offer skiers a transformative and thrilling experience. With sessions available for all levels of skiing, this once-in-a-lifetime package includes a welcome reception on the first evening and three days of personal ski coaching directly by Armstrong, along with daily lift tickets and equipment rentals. Reservations for Ski Strong sessions will be available in early fall and spots are limited. PIONEER GLADE RENAMED “FREE TACOS” GLADE Pioneer Glade is now Free Tacos in honor of George Medina, the legendary Taos instructor who helped end the resort’s ban on snowboarding in 2008. “Free Taos” – the mantra of

Taos will return its popular “cattle car” free parking shuttle this year, as well as the skier drop-off area, which debuted last season.

AHHHH-PRÈS SKI According to the press release, The Spa and Wellness Center at The Blake provides the “perfect relaxation destination for a luxurious escape or a post-skiing recovery, featuring: a heated saltwater pool, multiple outdoor hot tubs with stunning views of the mountain, an oxygen bar, treatment rooms for individuals or couples, a fitness center, a yoga room, a private locker room and steam room for spa guests, a separate locker room and steam room for fitness center guests, and more.” “This winter, visitors to TSV will return to a true skiing experience – one that is welcoming, relaxing, adventurous, and open to all,” said Norden.

TAOS’ FAMOUS SKI WEEKS RESUME Starting with the resort’s founding in 1955 and the only full-week program in North America, ski weeks provide a full week of instruction to inspire visitors’ skiing, renew their spirits, and create long-time friendships. Ski weeks at Taos Ski Valley include Children’s Weeks, Private Ski Weeks and one-time sessions that include Race Week and Women’s Week. Ski weeks run throughout the season from Sunday through Friday, starting Dec. 19. TOP SKIING AND RIDING EVENTS AND GUEST CELEBRATIONS Taos plans to once again host the prestigious Freeride World Tour. Additionally, Taos plans live music, holiday festivities, and engaging fundraising events throughout the season, including its popular Boarding for Breast Cancer and Femme De Freeride events. FLIGHTS TO RESUME Taos Air will resume round trip winter flights from Dallas, Austin, Carlsbad, California, and Hawthorne, California beginning in December and flying through April 4, 2022.

HISTORIC TRADITION CONTINUES More than six decades ago, Swiss ski enthusiast Ernie Blake looked out his window and saw the snowy mountain peaks beckoning to him from his Cessna 170. From then on, he and his family dedicated their lives to creating a dream destination where local culture converged with traditional European hospitality.

COVID-19 UPDATE Taos Ski Valley will continue to comply with all federal, state and local guidelines. Taos Ski Valley leadership hopes that the added precautions will allow for an on-time season opening and the ability to remain open throughout the winter. Taos will continuously monitor all guidelines and the pandemic’s effect on the community, and may adjust its business operations at any time in response.

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HOURS OF LIFT OPERATION

CONTACT

9 a.m. - 4 p.m.

skitaos.com

(866) 968-7386

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ARROYO SECO

High Mountain Hamlet MORE THAN 200 YEARS AGO, two farmers, brothers from Rio Arriba County, found themselves searching for fertile land to the east of their home. Cristóbal Martínez and José Gregorio Martínez searched for days before finding themselves in a rich and vibrant valley where they planted their crops before building a new home in 1806. When Cristóbal and José Gregorio dug that first hole and dropped in that first seed, the high-desert hamlet of Arroyo Seco was born. Located near the foot of El Salto Mountain, the small village called Arroyo Seco is just 7 miles north of Taos along State Road 150, the main road to Taos Ski Valley. Seco is also home to the well-publicized cooking cwlasses held by James Beard Nominated Chef and working actor Chris Maher. Cooking Studio Taos offers weekly classes that are 100 percent hands on. After class, you sit down as a group to enjoy your magnificent meal. Visit cookingstudiotaos.com. You can always feel the sense of community and creativity in the shops, boutiques, galleries and eateries that line the main street of this picturesque village.

Restaurants SOL FOOD MARKET AND CAFÉ Café open daily 8 a.m.-3 p.m., (575) 776-5765 Located inside a country-style natural foods market, the Sol Food Café has an informal, friendly atmosphere and aims to use natural, organic and local ingredients whenever possible. The cafe is perfect for a healthy meal and a hot cup o’ Joe. The market sells local food and boutique items. Weekends, however, are for brunch at the café with a menu that includes the macadamia nut pancake and a smoked salmon omelet. The award-winning baklava and assortment of other baked goods are staples.

ABE’S CANTINA Y COCINA  Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m.-5:30 p.m., Sat. 7 a.m.-1:30 p.m., (575) 776-8516 | This family-owned and operated establishment is a local and visitor favorite serving up some of the best enchiladas, chicharrones, empanadas (especially the pumpkin) and tamales in Northern New Mexico. The tavern is also a great watering hole and place to hear the latest, if you’re into that sort of thing.

TAOS COW Mon.-Sun., noon-5 p.m., (575) 776-5640 | Serving all-natural, made in New Mexico ice cream plus coffee, bagels, burritos and more from their new food truck.

Merchants ARROYO SECO MERCANTILE Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-5 p.m., (575) 776-8806 | Built around 1895, according to local lore, the Arroyo Seco Mercantile building houses a plethora of goods including antiques, American West vintage items, gifts, santos, Indian trade blankets and much more.

SABROSO  Open for dinner Wed.-Mon. 4 p.m.; closed Tuesdays, (575) 776-3333  | Sabroso is American and global cuisine, a fully-stocked bar and wine cellar with live music and a value-priced menu in the piano bar. The bar is often referred to as “Seco’s living room.” Dine fireside in the over 150-year-old adobe with fresh-squeezed margaritas, wood-grilled steaks and salmon.

THE WAKE & TAKE CAFÉ Mon.-Fri., 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sat. and Sun., 8 a.m.- 4 p.m. -ish, (505) 990-0296 | Check out Seco’s newest establishment. Vegan foods, specialty coffee drinks, events and consulting. Menu features healthy breakfast and lunch fare such as superfood bowls. 130

492 State Rd 150, Arroyo Seco, 575-999-5204 Discover one of a kind and usual items. Locally and globally made sustainable clothing, scarfs, jewelry and pottery. Come see what new blossoms are popping up today!

PARSE SECO (312) 593-3948 | Parse Seco is an experimental creative space that provides a platform for artists, musicians and creators to present experiences in an intimate setting or in other words, “using art to reform the social norm.” The venue has hosted live concerts, open mic nights, art openings, poetry readings and more. Check its events calendar on Facebook.

ROTTENSTONE POTTERY Daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m., (575) 776-1042 | Rottenstone Pottery specializes in unique ceramic art made in the ancient tradition of wood-firing. Scott Rottenstone’s wares combine an Eastern Wabi Sabi aesthetic with the functional formal considerations of American folk craft pottery.

SANTOS Y MÁS Daily 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m., (575) 776-2088 | Santos y Mas is where to go for the area’s best selection of handcrafted Northern New Mexico folk art and colorful, whimsical gifts and collectibles. You can’t help but smile.

SCOTT CARLSON POTTERY CLAIRE WORKS Daily 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m., (575) 776-5175 | Owner and award-winning sculptor (and painter) Claire Haye converted her talent into making jewelry in sterling silver, bronze and gold. Her pieces are embedded with symbolism and spirituality that “speak universally to women of all ages and walks of life.”

ACEQ  Open for dinner 5-9 p.m. daily. (575) 776-0900 This modern neighborhood restaurant that consistently gets rave reviews presents an interpretation of comfort food and utilizes the best in local, wild and farm-fresh ingredients. The menu, featuring tasty and technique-driven dishes, includes contemporary takes on old classics, house-made specialties and decadent desserts that change with the seasons.

MARIGOLD’S

Open every day, (575) 770-7695 | Brightly colored pottery made for the home and for everyday use. Check out Carlson’s signature colors salmon, blue and green. Custom place settings are his specialty. Cups, mugs, small vases and citrus juicers (great for making margaritas) are common items found here.

Lodging FINE ART NEW MEXICO Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m., (575) 7763899 | After years of writing, producing and directing in the film industry, Jack Leustig was searching for “a new, smaller creative journey.” The artistry of printing an image became his passion. In 1998, he opened his print studio and has been producing prints for local artists in small to large formats ever since, becoming a premier publisher of Southwest art and photography. The collection of works for sale is inspiring and impressive.

PREMIER PROPERTIES 800-987-8423, casamiguelnm.com | Offering authentic Northern New Mexican accommodations such as the adobe brick home Casa Miguel and Casa Kachina in Arroyo Seco’s distinct residential community Los Altos. Premiere has over 100 upscale properties located in the greater Taos area.

THE SNOW MANSION LOGAN WANNAMAKER POTTERY  Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-5 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m., (575) 770-4334 | “Logan Wannamaker stands at a whirling pottery wheel and effortlessly shapes a ball of black clay into a cup in seconds. That moment — throwing a pot — is probably the easiest part of his creative process. Behind it are hours of digging, sieving, mixing, hammering, chopping and burning that finally culminate in a one-of-a-kind work of art that uses native materials to mirror the dramatic Northern New Mexico landscape,” wrote J.R. Logan for the Taos News.

(575) 776-8298, snowmansion.com | Sometimes referred to as a ski lodge with campsites, the concept of the SnowMansion is based on the hostel — a popular, inexpensive type of lodging conceived in Europe that consists of sociable accommodations where guests can rent a bed in a dormitory-style room and share a bathroom, lounge and sometimes (as guests do at the SnowMansion) have use of the kitchen. For many years, the SnowMansion has been a popular, comfortable and cozy, budget-friendly place to stay for skiers, boarders and winter’s weary travelers.

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“Top ten ice cream shops in the country.” -

COME ENJOY BEAUTIFUL SCENERY & TAOS COW ALL NATURAL, rBGH FREE SUPER PREMIUM ICE CREAM KIDS MENU & TAKE OUT AVAILABLE

OFFERING: TAOS ROASTERS’ LOCALLY ROASTED ORGANIC FAIR TRADE COFFEE FULL ESPRESSO BAR • FRESHLY-MADE PASTRIES & CAKES • VEGAN/VEGETARIAN OPTIONS BAGELS, BAGEL SANDWICHES, BURRITOS

Check us out in our Arroyo Seco food truck

Marigolds

Coming Soon: Angladas location on Kit Carson Road!

776-5640

Please check our website or Facebook for hours and specials.

492 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco | 575-999-5204

LOCATED IN DOWNTOWN ARROYO SECO & CAÑON • TAOSCOW.COM

SOL FOOD MARKET & CAFE

SUPERFOOD SMOOTHIES

ORGANIC SALADS

TAOS TOAST

ESPRESSO DRINKS

GRILLED PANINIS

BREAKFAST DAILY

HOUSEMADE PASTRIES

FRESH JUICE BAR

DECADENT CAKES

Open Every Day! • Café 8am–3pm • Market/To-Go 8am–8pm • On the Way to Taos Ski Valley • Everyday Groceries • Boutique Items - Gifts

575-776-5765 575-776-5765 DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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• Dairy - Frozen Foods • Fresh Produce |

• Local Meats • Pet Food

Downtown Arroyo Seco NM

• Household - Personal Care • Health and Body Care |

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ANGEL FIRE should install a tow rope on their 25,000 acre spread in the Sangre de Cristo mountain range so they wouldn’t have to drive so far to enjoy one of their favorites pastimes — skiing. Roy ran with the idea. By the winter of 1967, Roy LeBus’ vision of a ski resort became a reality. A community sprang up around the ski area and the Angel Fire Chamber of Commerce was founded in December 1982. The town was incorporated as the Village of Angel Fire in 1986. THE FUN The popular family-friendly destination opens this season on Dec. 10. It now boasts 80 Alpine trails and seven lifts, plus more than 12km of groomed cross-country and snowshoeing trails at the Nordic Center. For advanced skiers the Bear, Elk, Shane’s and Eagle glades comprise the four tree-trail areas covering 30 acres.

HOURS OF LIFT OPERATION 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. NIGHT SKIING HOURS 4 p.m. – 8 p.m., select nights, weather permitting

CONTACT (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com

Winter in the pines JUST OVER THE SNOW-CAPPED PEAKS, past the deep, frozen valleys, and across the untouched plains to the east lies Angel Fire. Appropriately named by the nomadic Moache Utes who congregated there in the spring and fall to renew their ancestral ties with the Great Spirit, Angel Fire has been known for centuries as a place unlike any other; a place to find heaven on Earth. When the Utes looked up from their valley home at the flickering sun radiating from the tip of Agua Fría (Cold Water) Peak, they labeled the place the “fire of the gods.” Today, the majesty of Angel Fire remains its hallmark, as it has for thousands of years. But the area has also become a place for families to come and relax and have some fun in the snow. Descending into the Moreno Valley, travelers know they are in for an amazing time at a winter paradise.

In addition to skiing and boarding, Angel Fire is an excellent tubing choice. Dubbed the Polar Coaster, this four-lane groomed tubing hill sends riders down 1,000 feet of sliding bliss. There is also a family snow play hill for sledding just outside the Country Club. A single sledding hill pass is $8 per person. Sleds and discs may be rented at the Nordic Center for $10-$15. Sledding is available Friday-Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and daily during peak periods in December and March (conditions permitting). Angel Fire is the only resort in the state to offer nighttime skiing, tubing, sledding and boarding. NORDIC CENTER More than 12km of groomed terrain for classic and skate cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing. The Nordic Center operates Friday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. with extended hours during peak periods in December and March. Operations are dependent on weather. WINTER EVENTS Due to COVID and the uncertainty of the pandemic, dates and times for resort events had not been released at print time. Check angelfireresort.com for updated details. Past events have included: Pictures with Santa, Ski & Snowboard with The Clauses, Family Fun Fest, USASA Giant Slalom Race (snowboard only), Member Moonlight Dinner and Ride, Winter Carnival, Super Bowl Party at Legends Grill, Annual Military Winter Fest, USASA Jedi Challenge Ski Cross and Boardercross and Mardi Gras.

THE HISTORY Roving Franciscan friars, with the aim of converting the area’s American Indians, transposed the moniker into “the place of the fire of angels.” Arriving to the area in the mid-1800s was Lucien B. Maxwell , the largest land grant owner in U.S. history, hoards of trappers and Spaniards — many of whom bore witness to the unique 132

glow. Frontiersman Kit Carson is credited with conceiving the name “Angel Fire” in 1845. The idea for the Angel Fire Ski Resort was born in the mid-1960s during an unassuming, typical family Sunday dinner. Wichita Falls, Kansas, transplant and cattle rancher George LeBus made the comment to his father, Roy, that they PHOTOS COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT

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IT’S A GREAT DAY AT

Always lways y Fresh Meat a and Produce with i Great Selections in Angel Fire

• Rental Sales • Merchandise • On Site Mechanic

North Country Plaza

(575) 377-1010

Mt. View Blvd (Hwy 434) & Halo Pines Terrace in Angel Fire, NM

10 77-10 575-3 ead.com ilH AFTra

Samuel’s Construction & Property Management 575-377-6651 DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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(575) 377-6651 aboutnorthcountry.com

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EAGLE NEST

It’s in the air. It’s in the water. FOR A WINTER WONDERLAND like Eagle Nest, nature is always awe-inspiring. Even after the summer sun has cooled and the fall leaves have dropped, the forests and open spaces in and around Eagle Nest are alive with the natural movements of Northern New Mexico. The village of Eagle Nest hunkers down at the low point of the Moreno Valley, hard upon Eagle Nest Lake. As such, the area around the town is as lush and moist as the valley can get. Of course, Eagle Nest, with its historic main street that reflects a simpler time in frontier life, gets pretty quiet in town as the snow starts to fall. But that just means it’s time to grab a hot cup of coffee and a breakfast burrito at Madam’s Restaurant and Coffee Shop and then head out to the lake for some ice fishing or winter bird watching.

Yes, some birds do migrate, and some mammals hibernate. However a good number of the creatures stay active throughout the winter, and they’re the focus of wintertime wildlife viewing in and around Eagle Nest. The valley’s elk herd is the star of this wintertime show. Year-round, several thousand elk inhabit the mountain-skirt forests on both sides of the valley. Cows, calves and younger bulls hang together in one group, while the bulls form bachelor herds. Throughout the West, the mule deer population has declined severely in recent decades, and the Moreno Valley herd is no exception. A high bear population and the lack of food sources, like shrubs and sunflowers, have put pressure on the herd. There are, however, still plenty of deer in the Colin Neblett Wildlife Area east of the valley.

FOR THE BIRDS... The area around Eagle Nest Lake is also prime habitat for birds. Anyone who stops by in the summer will likely see ducks, geese, crows and magpies, a heron or osprey and, with luck, a golden eagle for which the lake is named. In the winter, the native flock thins with migration. However, a number of species overwinter, varying each year with the severity of the weather. These resident species either never leave the area or they fly in from the north for a milder winter in the Moreno Valley. Eagle Nest attracts a lot of water fowl who migrate down from the Dakotas after breeding. Also, there are more hawks, especially red tails, who come in for the winter now. You’ll also see resident Cooper’s hawks and northern Goshawks. Depending upon the severity of the winter, a number of raptors will stick around – including eagles on the north end of the valley. Corvids – crows, magpies, ravens and turkey vultures – roam the Moreno Valley year-round looking for food. Smaller birds, like songbirds, proliferate all year. Sparrows, juncos, chickadees and others all pick off insects and chow down on backyard feeders to stay alive through the winter. Blue grouse overwinter under the cover of conifer forests, particularly on the slopes of Touch-MeNot Mountain. RATHER BE FISHING No matter the season, anglers venture to “The Home of the Browns” in hopes of snagging a trout (rainbow, brown and cutthroat), perch or Kokanee salmon. Eagle Nest Lake is regularly stocked and thus is a popular ice fishing spot for good reason. In

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late January, the village hosts an ice fishing tournament with cash and door prizes. And for the cold hardy, the town hosts an annual Polar Bear Plunge at the lake on New Year’s Day. Don’t let the population of less than 300 or quiet of the town fool you, there are plenty of unique shops to browse and great places to grab a bite to eat along the main street. For more information, visit eaglenestchamber. org or newmexico.org. WALKING ON SUNSHINE Snowshoeing is a time-honored way to explore nature in the winter. Strap the tennis-racket-like apparatus onto your boots and get out into the wilderness. Here are a couple of the best places to get your snowshoe on… literally.

LOWER EAGLE NEST LAKE TRAIL A 5.5 mile lightly trafficked out and back trail located near Angel Fire, New Mexico that features a lake and is good for all skill levels. The trail offers a number of activity options. Dogs are also able to use this trail but must be kept on leash. CIMARRON CANYON STATE PARK The Cimarron River flows through this narrow, forested canyon, located near Eagle Nest on the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway. The park offers beautiful views, interesting geology, quiet camping, fly fishing, hiking and equestrian trails. The wildlife viewing opportunities are amazing, as the park sits at the center of the Colin Neblett Wildlife Management Area.

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Taos’ Best Coﬀee

At Taos Roasters, we have a passion for great-tasting coffee. Here amid the soul-stirring vistas of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo Mountains, we import beans from the world’s nest growing regions and use our high-altitude, custom roasting process to deliver you coffee that’s always rich, smooth, and aromatic—never bitter.

Served at these fine establishments: Cid’s Food Market Dixon Cooperative Market Taos Food Coop Taos Cow The Coffee Spot Elevation Coffee The Taos Inn Lambert’s of Taos Bent Street Deli Mabel Dodge Luhan House Inn on La Loma Old Taos Guesthouse Martrys Steakhouse Carson Cafe & Grocery

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RED RIVER

Small town, big heart AMERICA IS A LOT OF THINGS TO A LOT OF PEOPLE. It’s apple pie and ball games and fireworks. It’s nature and hot dogs and roller coasters. It’s “Main Street” and diners and playgrounds. By any of those standards, Red River is America. Red River’s central drag is evenly called, “Main Street,” and practically the entire town is

WHAT TO DO Visitors enjoy diverse winter activities including downhill skiing/snowboarding, X-country skiing/snowshoeing, snowmobiling and more. Sightseeing is a given. You are pretty much guaranteed to see some form of wildlife during your stay. The Town of Red River is a great getaway for individuals and families who seek an invigorating winter excursion that may be a little farther down the road but much closer to an authentic winter experience. Red River snowmobilers have miles of

on it: shops, restaurants and local businesses. Even the ski resort is a short walk from Main Street. From those comfy, small town USA streets—complete with smiling faces, cozy beds, and a lot of friendly “Howdies”—visitors can embark on their Red River adventure.

top of Bobcat Pass for all ages, even including your 4-legged BFF (Best Furry Friend!) For more information visit enchantedforestxc.com.

groomed trails all the way up Sawmill Canyon to the 11,249-foot Greenie Peak. The Valle Vidal is a 100,000acre wildlife tract with a 50-mile loop from Sawmill Canyon. The Upper Red River Valley is another favorite haunt where snowmobilers like to take the switch-backed road leading to Middle Fork Lake.

For information on lodging and outdoor adventures visit redriver.org .

The Enchanted Forest Cross Country Area is New Mexico’s largest full-service XC Ski and Snowshoe area. With more than 35K of ski trails, 5K of dg trails, 18K of snowshoe trails and access to more than six miles of backcountry trails, you can find fun at the

Opening day at Red River Ski and Summer Area (RRSSA) is November 24, the day before Thanksgiving, continuing through Sunday November 28, and thereafter open only weekends (Dec 3-5) until Friday, December 10, then it offers daily skiing.

MORE INFO

NEW THIS SEASON Snowmaking projects including seven new snow guns and upgraded waterlines to further expand upon the most powerful snowmaking in the state. Axess RFID gates installed at Lil Blue, Gold Chair, Platinum Chair, and Copper Chair. This RFID gate and ticketing system will be the first at any ski area in New Mexico. Axess RFID card pick up boxes installed at various locations allowing contactless and quick pick up of your online reservation. Upgraded ticketing software that integrates with RFID gates and allows us and the guest a more user-friendly experience when making purchases.

CONTACT (575) 754- 2223, redriverskiarea.com or redriver.org

Redesigned online booking platform that is more mobile friendly. PHOTOS COURTESY OF TOWN OF RED RIVER TOURISM & ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT

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ENJOY OUR MOUNTAIN Highest elevation brewery and distillery in New Mexico Indoor and outdoor dining

Wide selection of hand-crafted brews, spirits, and specialty cocktails made with love on site RedRiverBrewing.com / 575-754-4422 Located on Main Street in Red River

BOBCAT PASS WILDERNESS ADVENTURES Come experience the ultimate in snowmobile adventures!

OUR 30TH SEASON

Enjoy scenic tours in the beautiful Sangre de Cristo Mountains at Bobcat Pass. Helmets provided with suits and boots available to rent. RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED

575-754-2769 1670 HWY. 38 AT BOBCAT PASS RED RIVER, NM 87558 • BOBCATPASS.COM

COMMUNITIES I

QUESTA

Gateway to enchantment KNOWN AS THE “gateway to the Enchanted Circle,” Questa, New Mexico is the quintessential small town. Less than an hour from Taos and sitting at 7,500 feet elevation, Questa is the northern gateway to the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway, which surrounds Wheeler Peak, the highest summit in the state. Questa is one in a long chain of tiny towns that popped up along the Rio Grande from what is now Mexico into southern -Colorado in the 18th and 19th centuries. RIO GRANDE DEL NORTE NATIONAL MONUMENT

PHOTO BY LYNN SKALL

Ancient petroglyphs can be discovered along the Big Arsenic hike in the Rio Grande Del Norte National Monument near Questa.

Rinconada Loop Trail in the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument for 6 miles of flat skiing with stunning gorge views. The trail can be entered at any of the campground parking lots and it’s easy to create smaller loops to match your time or stamina. Hiking into the gorge in this Wild Rivers area of the national monument is a favorite Taos outing. On a clear winter day, these steep 1-mile-trails are a pleasure, with the reward of a sparkling river and hidden petroglyphs.

What the locals know is that access to the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, just west of Questa, never closes. The monument is comprised of rugged, wide open plains at an average elevation of 7,000 feet, dotted by volcanic cones, and cut by steep canyons with rivers tucked away in their depths. The Rio Grande carves an 800-foot deep gorge through layers of volcanic basalt flows and ash. Among the volcanic cones in the monument, Ute Mountain is the highest, towering 10,093 feet above the surrounding valleys.

On the other side of Questa are trails along State Highway 38 toward the town of Red River. Columbine Canyon is not only a favorite for dry-weather hiking, but is a wonderful place to strap on your snowshoes and trek as near or far as your heart desires. The higher altitude here and thick surrounding pines hold the snowpack well, and a whitetail deer may await you in the meadows.

RINCONADA LOOP TRAIL

SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA CHURCH

If you wake up to snow, throw your cross-country skis in the car and head for the

In the heart of town is the San Antonio de Padua Church, which was built soon after the

COLUMBINE CANYON

COURTESY VILLAGE OF QUESTA

The interior of Questa’s 1880’s ‘miracle’ church with 4-foot-thick adobe walls; when the church partially collapsed in 2008 it was rebuilt by many of the descendants of the same families that originally constructed the church over 150 years ago.

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permanent village was established in 1842. This historic adobe structure underwent an all-volunteer renovation and was reconsecrated. Artists and craftspeople have been at work in Questa for hundreds of years. Devotion refined the artistry, and continues to do so, as evidenced in the artful restoration of the church.  CABRESTO CANYON: The 10-mile roundtrip to Heart Lake, starting from the Cabresto Lake parking lot is a beautiful favorite. Carson National Forest drapes around the east side of Questa and offers many trails and campsites. SKIING ACROSS COUNTRY When the snow arrives in Questa, the trails convert from mountain biking to cross country skiing and snowshoeing. The flatter trails at Wild Rivers do not hold the snow for long, but are stunning to play on while they do! According to questa-nm.com, “Cabresto Canyon is at a higher elevation with more tree coverage. The road is plowed only to the end of the residences; beyond that, snowmobiles can zip through glistening meadows.

COURTESY VILLAGE OF QUESTA

Questa sits amidst nearly 500,000 acres of pristine protected lands, including the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument and two designated Wilderness Areas in the Carson National Forest, the ultimate location for outdoor recreation.

FISHING THROUGH ICE “The last few winters have brought a couple extended bouts of extreme cold; and the ice-fisherman welcome this chance to stay close to home and fish our small Eagle Rock Lake right in town or venture up to Cabresto Lake,” says the Questa Community website.

MORE INFO For further info, visit visitquesta.com, questa-nm.com or phone tourism staff at (575) 613-2852. You can reach the Questa Ranger District of the Carson National Forest at (575) 586-0520. The BLM Wild Rivers Visitors Center can be reached at (575) 586-1150.

Questa Lumber & Hardware Co. L Visit us for all your hard-to-find seasonal, H Lcontracting, and home repair needs. We have the experience to get the job done with our family of stores. Personalized service is our number one priority! 575-586-0414

575-586-0561

575-586-0419

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2349 St. Hwy 522 (Next to Family Dollar)

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tion! t Loca a e 11 r G ne 53.45 op • O NM • 505.7 h S o t laces añola, reat P te Esp a ñ O Two G o de . Pase 233 N

We have REPLACEMENT PARTS and ACCESSORIES for HARLEY DAVIDSON Motorcycles, APPAREL, JEWELRY, HELMETS and a lot of COOL GIFT IDEAS! You don’t have to be a biker to shop at C&C ! Follow us on Facebook or check out our website at CNCMOTORCYCLE.COM. We are the best Lil MOTORCYCLE SHOP in NEW MEXICO!! C&C MOTORCYCLE • 113 N RAILROAD AVE ESPAÑOLA,NM 87532 • 505-901-0043

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clothes for all occassions

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All your tobacco, vape & accessories in one place!

CHIMAYO TRADING POST Established 1917 in the heart of Española, between Santa Fe and Taos

SMOKERS CHOICE

NATIONAL AND STATE REGISTERS OF HISTORIC PLACES OFFERING A KALEIDOSCOPE OF TREASURES

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Country Farm Supply 229 N. Riverside Dr., Española • 505-753-4500 WINTER/SPRING 2022

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China Kitchen Locally-owned for over 20 years! FOE #3695 The Española Valley Eagles

604 S RIVERSIDE DR. STE A ESPAÑOLA, NEW MEXICO

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Members and bona ﬁde guests are always welcome!

I AM Northern

New Mexico.

Thomas Martinez | VP/Market President

Being born and raised in the Española Valley, I am truly local. Because I have a personal stake in our community’s success, I forge strong bonds with my clients and work for their financial success. I AM Century Bank!

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CALENDAR These are tentative dates. Check ahead to make sure these events are still occurring pending the COVID pandemic or inclement weather.

SIPAPU SKI AND SUMMER RESORT O P E N I N G D AY : Nov. 19 L A S T D AY : April 10, 2022

RED RIVER SKI RESORT

TAOS SKI VALLEY

ANGEL FIRE SKI RESORT

O P E N I N G D AY : Nov. 24

O P E N I N G D AY : Nov. 25

O P E N I N G D AY : Dec. 10

L A S T D AY : March 20, 2022

L A S T D AY : April 3, 2022

L A S T D AY : March 20, 2022

COURTESY OF ANGEL FIRE RESORT

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TAOS FOLK Nov. 19 - Dec. 24 Stables Art Gallery, 133 Paseo del Pueblo Norte Find a huge variety of beautiful handmade gifts by Taos artisans at this famous Pop-up store. More than 75 artisans and authors will be displaying their new work and books for sale. For more info, visit taosfolk.com.

36TH ANNUAL YULETIDE TREE LIGHTING Dec. 3 4-7 p.m. At the Plaza, the town Christmas Tree is lit to kick off the 2021 Taos Holiday Season. For more info, call 575-751-2037.

HOLIDAY FIESTA AT MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM Dec. 4 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. Don’t miss this free annual community event that is fun for the whole family. Previous years have featured photos with Santa, face painting, wish tree, performances by local organizations and appearances by special guests. For more information, visit millicentrogers.org.

LIGHTING OF LEDOUX Dec. 4

BONFIRES ON BENT STREET Dec. 11

5-7 p.m.

4-7 p.m.

Watch historic Ledoux Street come aglow with the light of farolitos, luminaries and bonfires as the community gathers to enjoy the view with warm holiday foods and drinks from the galleries, shops and museums that stay open late for this annual Taos holiday tradition. For more info, visit harwoodmuseum.org.

On Bent Street, the John Dunn Shops and Bent Street merchants offer holiday snacks and specials, with bonfires and farolitos lighting the way for carolers and shoppers to enjoy hot beverages, entertainment and festivities. Shops will be decked out with holiday decor and visitors can expect a memorable night. For more info, visit johndunnshops.com.

HOLIDAY CONCERTS WITH GLEB IVANOV Dec. 11 5:30 p.m. Dec. 12 5:30 p.m. Taos Community Auditorium, 145 Paseo del Pueblo Norte Pianist Gleb Ivanov joins violinist LP How, cellist Sally Guenther and flutist Nancy Laupheimer for works by Fanny Mendelssohn, Melanie Bonis, Robert Schumann and Sergei Prokofiev. For tickets, visit taoschambermusicgroup. org.

LAS POSADAS Dec. 16-24 A special nine day celebration of Christmas popular in Northern New Mexico. The traditions that are featured have been passed down for more than 400 years and originated in Mexico. “Posadas” is Spanish for lodging or accommodation and dramatizations often depict the story of Joseph and Mary looking for a place to stay before baby Jesus is born. Each day represents one month that the Virgin Mary carried baby Jesus in her womb. The Posaditas go to different houses each night and are sent away until the ninth night when they are finally given shelter. Traditional foods like tamales and biscochitos are offered to the posaditas. Prayer is also recited. To find out how to participate, call 575-7582754.

CHRISTMAS EVE TORCHLIGHT PARADES AND FIREWORKS Dec. 24

NEW YEAR’S EVE TORCHLIGHT PARADES AND FIREWORKS Dec. 31

6 p.m.

Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire, Sipapu and Red River ski resorts have skiers carry lights down the slopes for a magical parade experience. Watch the procession and fireworks and enjoy hot beverages with the whole family. For more info, visit the any of the ski resort websites.

TOWN OF TAOS NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATION ON THE PLAZA Dec. 31

TAOS WINTER WINE FESTIVAL Feb. 3-6, 2022

Mayor Dan Barrone and family serve a roast pig dinner free to the community and visitors, along with a fireworks display by the Taos Fire Department and a Time Square Countdown. Starts at 7 p.m. on the Plaza. For more info, call 575-751-2001.

Buy tickets for this can’t miss festival featuring wine tastings, seminars, dinners and more at Taos Ski Valley and many venues in town. Be sure to take the free shuttle up to TSV and back. For more info, visit taoswinterwinefest.com or email info@ taoswinterwinefest.com.

TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTOS DISCOVERTAOS.COM

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Because we know, you want to live here.

Call us, 575.758.0080 114 Dona Luz Street, Taos 154

PROFESSIONAL VERACIOUS REFRESHING

Debbie Friday-Jagers 575.770.1618

Jennifer Rice 575.776.7096

Pennie Wardlow 575.741.1444

Mary Gugino 575.770.1850

Linda Knief 575.770.4758

Kristi Benson 575.741.0544

Mary Emery 575.770.8382

John Woolery 575.770.6114

ENTERTAIN IN STYLE Nambé Taos at 109 North Plaza, Taos, NM 87571 - P: 575-758-8221 Nambé Pojoaque 90 Cities of Gold Road, Santa Fe, NM 87506 - P: 505-455-2731 SHOP IN STORE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CURBSIDE PICKUP www.nambe.com | Find us on: