Discover Taos Summer 2020

Page 1


Our tomorrow is now.

It is time for the 2020 Census and we need to participate now. Our children are counting on us as it helps shape the future of our communities. Census data is used for programs and grants that are important for all American Indians and Alaska Natives. Complete the census online, by phone, or by mail.

2020CENSUS.GOV Paid for by U.S. Census Bureau


SIRI, FIND ME A PLACE WHERE YOU WON’T WORK. For more than a century, travelers have come here to distance themselves from others. We’re glad not much has changed. You will be, too.

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

3


To visit Taos Pueblo is to walk in a sacred place where life continues from the earliest of human existence

Learn about our history, culture and art . taospueblo.com Open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. 575.758.1028 120 Veterans Highway 4

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

5


6

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

7


Adventure out to

On the Enchanted Circle, Off the beaten path. Questa’s untapped rivers and wide-open wilderness areas is where anglers and adventurers go to get away. It’s the unspoiled stop on the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway that inspires artists and is surprisingly unexpected. Your home away from home is a cozy cabin, Airbnb, riverfront RV spot or secluded campsite. The “Welcome!” at family-owned shops and restaurants is genuine, and the cultural heritage is real. Adventure out to Questa, it’s where you’ll find true enchantment off the beaten path.

COLORADO NEW MEXICO

VisitQuesta.com

This ad sponsored by Chevron Environmental Management Company.

8

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

9


10

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


PAT WOODALL FINE ART GALLERY AND SOUTHWEST FRAMERS The Rock House across from the Taos Inn

“Taos Pueblo Full Moon” - Monotype 1/1 - 32” x 48”

2020 Gallery Guide Cover Artist

“The Hunter’s Return, Indian Summer” - Oil - 36” x 36”

“Full Moon, Starry Night” - Monotype 1/1 - 32” x 48”

122 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM 87571 · 575.770.0393 cell · 575.758.3320 gallery patwoodall.com Luxury Vacation Rentals | casacarmentaos.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

11


SOME OF OUR TAOS TRAILS ARE GREENER THAN OTHERS

0

Terrace Restaurant.

taoscountryclub.com. (575) 758-7300 12

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Patagonia • Prana • Patagonia • Prana • P a t a gP r a• n aaK u••h l Po aaantttiaaaaggg ooo •n n iii aaaP r a••• n aP P P n P rr aa n na •

Kuhl * Kuhl * K K *u uh h lllT o ***a d K u h

To a d & C o To a d & C o T • C ooA T ooo&aaa d d C o& & T d & C Co

• A • A s ••o l oA • A A

s s ss s

ol ol oo• ll ol

o • Te v o • Te v oo T e••v a T e• v T o • T ee vv

a a aa C a

• • h•• a •

C C cC o C C

h h h h h

ac ac aa• cc ac

o o oo O o

• Ol • Ol l••u k O a il O • O ll

“Live the life you’ve imagined” “Live “Live thethe lifelife you’ve you’ve imagined” imagined”

u u u u u

k k kk k

a a aa a

i i ii i

Quality Outdoor Gear and Clothing for Every Adventure Quality Outdoor Gear and Clothing for Every Adventure Quality Outdoor Gear andand Clothing for for Every Adventure Quality Outdoor Gear Clothing Every Adventure

MUDD-N-FLOOD MOUNTAIN SHOP MUDD-N-FLOOD MOUNTAIN SHOP MUDD-N-FLOOD MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN SHOP SHOP 103 AMUDD-N-FLOOD Bent St. (near Taos Inn) • Taos 575-751-9100 • muddnflood.com MOUNTAIN SHOP 103 AMUDD-N-FLOOD Bent St. (near Taos Inn) • Taos 575-751-9100 • muddnflood.com

Os Os OsprO O e ys O ss

p p p p p

re re rrr• eee

103 A103 Bent A Bent (near St. Taos (near Inn) Taos •Inn) Taos••l575-751-9100 Taos 575-751-9100 • muddnflood.com ••• muddnflood.com Bent Taos muddnflood.com • B103 l a cA D i a St. m o (near n d •Taos H yInn) d r o f• a s k 575-751-9100 • ENO Ham mocks • Marmot 103 Ak St. Bent St. (near Taos Inn) Taos 575-751-9100 muddnflood.com

y y yyy B

• M • Black Diamond • Hydroflask • ENO Hammocks • Marmot • M l ••a c kB B l aDc ika mDo iin aadm m o• n d d H y• d r H o fy lda rrs ook ff ll aa• ss kk E N•• O E EN HO amm H oaa cm mk m s o c• k s M a• r mMo aat rr m m• o t M S• R M • B ll aa cc kk D D i a m oo n n d •• H H yy d droflask • EN NO O H Hamm m oo cc kk ss •• M M a r m oo tt •• M M D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

S S S S S

R R R R R 13


14

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Photo by Jeff Caven

John R. Sutton General Building Contractor, a long-established builder in the Moreno Valley, is known for taking the time to communicate with his clients and get a clear vision of what the owner is after. Working hard to establish his quality of workmanship and working relationships with sub-contractors, John strives to create a solid and dependable team. Managing this team is vital to a project finishing on schedule with the owner’s expectations in mind.

Visit our website for additional photos and testimonials... suttonconstruction.com

John R. Sutton General Building Contractor, Inc.

Ofďƒžce: 575.377.6570 Cell: 505.603.4727 Centro Plaza | Mountain View Blvd. | PO Box 76 | Angel Fire, NM 87710 designbuild@suttonconstruction.com | NM License #57394 D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

15


Something Wild

By TaƟana Klimov tatsart.com

Represented by Taos Artist Collective Gallery 106 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM 87571

IG @happy_painƟngs_by_taƟana | FB @happy painƟngs by taƟana 16

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Fiestas de Taos July 23-25, 2021

Photos by Sean Kelly Portraits, Taos, NM www.seankellyportraits.com

Honoring our Culture, Traditions And all Things Taos for Generations... A centuries old fiesta celebrating the gathering of generations to enjoy delicious cuisine, traditional music, And fellowship, while honoring the cultural uniqueness of taos. The Taos Fiesta Council is proud to celebrate our 4OTH year managing Fiestas de Taos. www. FiestasDeTaos.com.

With profound sadness the 2020 Fiestas de Taos are canceled as a result of the global COVID-19 pandemic. The health and safety of our community ity is at the forefront of our thoughts. Future Fiesta dates: July 22-24, 2022.

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

17


AWAITS

The elements continue to carve out our landscape and wide, open spaces. Each day is still framed by perfect blue skies, majestic sunsets, and starry nights. Art and inspiration are thriving. Our rich history and culture remain. The mountains stand strong, as do our people.

DREAM BIG. START PLANNING. @visittaos | 800-732-8267 18

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


125 Kit Carson Road (two doors west of our main gallery in historic downtown Taos). Open Daily 11-6.

“Trees” 86” x 42” rice paper, minerals, encaustic, oil on canvas © K.C. Tebbutt

“Forever” 96” x 72” rice paper, earth pigments, encaustic, oil on canvas © Kimberly Webber 2020

UNTITLED EDITIONS features limited edition museum quality prints of the light responsive original work of Taos-based painters Kimberly Webber and K.C. Tebbutt.

WWW.UNTITLED-EDITIONS.COM

|

575-758-4058

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

19


ANDEAN SOFTWARE

CLOTHING • JEWELRY • FOLK ART • TEXTILES

TWO LOCATIONS FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE IN TAOS HISTORIC DISTRICT IN TAOS BETWEEN PLAZA BETWEEN TAOS INNTHE & DONABE FREE LEDOUX PARKINGSTREET 575.758.8605 AND

121 DE LA IN TAOS SKIPLACITA VALLEY RESORT 575.758.8605 NEXT TO THE BLAKE HOTEL

575.776.2508 TAOS SKI VALLEY RESORT CENTER TEL/FAX 575.776.2508

ANDEANSOFTWARE.COM 20

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Alhambra

The Tao of Taos IN TAOS SINCE 1981

124 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos 575-758-4161 Monday-Saturday 10 - 6 Sunday 12 - 5 www.alhambra505.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

21


Proud to close the largest real estate deals in Taos County history.

Upper Cummings Latir Mountain Ranch (2020)

Latir Ranch (2011)

SOLD

SOLD

This one-of-a-kind property borders Carson National Forest, Latir Wilderness and former Ski Rio Resort with 5433.6 deeded acres that includes the top of Latir Peak, a 12,708’ peak, in the Sangre de Cristo Range. $7,500,000

Among the finest ranching, hunting and fishing properties in the Southwest, enjoy 6,800 acres of terrain that varies from irrigated high desert pastures to alpine slopes and high-mountain lakes. $7,000,000

Prime Commercial Acreage

SOLD

Prime Commercial Acreage – Some of the most beautiful and revered land in all of Taos adjacent to Overland Sheep Skin Co. Think out of the box, but not about the Big Box!....or just watch the Buffalo roam. $1,497,000

PAVEL LUKES, QUALIFYING BROKER | 575.758.3606 | TAOSNEWMEXICO.COM 22

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


47 years of experience and results you can trust!

Ski Rio

SOLD

You can’t dream this Big! Former ski area resort with over 900 acres of beautiful terrain and endless views near the Colorado border. Enjoy sik ski lifts, a lodge and underground utilites. $7,000,000

Casa Otero

SOLD

Beautiful, comfortable and functional with unique architectural appointments. Restoration and remodeling of this venerable adobe compound was accomplished with the highest standards for quality. $2,400,000

Pueblo de Los Suenos

SOLD

Relax and enjoy Pueblo de Los Suenos. (Pueblo of Dreams), luxury condominiums in the heart of Taos on Kit Carson. Designed to reflect and honor the timeless style of Northern New Mexico architecture. Developed and sold. $9,100,000


38

Table of Contents 50 58

94

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

STEADFAST AND AUTHENTIC

CAULDRON OF CREATIVITY

SHARING THE TRAILS

Five ways locals live summer in Taos

Taos Pueblo celebrates 50th anniversary of Blue Lake return

Couse Foundation breaks ground

Everything from easy to challenging

by Virginia L. Clark

by Rick Romancito

by Tamra Testerman

by Cindy Brown

80

COCKTAIL CRUISE Signature drinks around Historic Taos Plaza

by Virginia L. Clark

24

Morgan Timms/Taos News |

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


26584 East Highway 64 | Between Taos & Angel Fire

SOTHEBYSHOMES.COM/0565908

Unique 4BR, 3BA home with tremendous mountain and stream views. Only 12 miles to Taos and 13 miles to Angel Fire. Two-story openconcept residence with spacious master suite and 3-car garage.

$685,000

740 Cruz Alta Road | Taos SOTHEBYSHOMES.COM/0567531 Custom-designed and built in 2003, this incomparable home and guesthouse sit amid professionally landscaped grounds in the picturesque Taos Valley, enjoying spectacular views. $2,250,000

Vicki Markley

vicki.markley@sothebyshomes.com 505.927.3229 | vickimarkley.com

213 Lund Street | Taos SOTHEBYSHOMES.COM/0567533 Walking distance from the historic Taos Plaza, this exciting four-bedroom home benefits from the clean air, magical light, and fabulous sunset and mountain views for which New Mexico is known. $850,000

David Córdova

david.cordova@sothebyshomes.com 505.660.9744 | davidcordovagroup.com

326 Grant Avenue | Santa Fe, NM | 505.988.2533 | sothebyshomes.com/santafe

Sotheby’s International Realty and the Sotheby’s International Realty logo are registered (or unregistered) service marks used with permission. Operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. Real estate agents affiliated with Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. are independent contractor sales associates and are not employees of Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. Equal Housing Opportunity. D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

25


Table of Contents discover

70

LA COMUNIDADES

SABROSO

Enchanting locales 106 by Virginia L. Clark Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs and Spa 107 Taos Pueblo - A world apart 108 by Scott Gerdes Arroyo Seco - A community of locals 110 COURTESY PHOTO

discover

ARTES, CULTURA, HISTORIA

discover

COMIDA Y BEBIDA

Taos Ski Valley - Mountain's majesty 112 Red River - Coolness to boot 114 Angel Fire - Soulful sunsets and vistas 118 Creative Questa 124 by Alberta Bouyer

Onward and upward 45 artists in Harwood Museum virtual summer exhibition 46 Magical Taos Jones Walker Gallery hopeful harbinger for Taos art 56 by Virginia L. Clark

An epicurian adventure North Valley dining 70

Red or green? Sometimes you just need both 78

discover

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Katharine Egli, Rick Romancito, Geraint Smith ON THE COVER “Ojo Anthem” by Ryan Heffernan Photography 207.577.5122 | ryanheffernan.com

by Lucy Herrman

discover

DEPARTMENTS Bienvenidos a Taos Letter from the editor 28 New Mexico Safe 35

AVENTURA MAPS Getting here 30 Yoga like a local 82

LAS POSADAS

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alberta Bouyer, Cindy Brown, Amber Burke, Scott Gerdes, Lucy Herrman, Dena Miller, Ellen Miller-Goins, Rick Romancito, Lauren Seale, Tamra Testerman

by Virginia L. Clark

Taos Plaza Contemporary and historic heart of town 60 by Dena Miller

Eagle Nest - Angling and historic gateway 127

Taos News staff Robin Martin, owner Chris Baker, publisher Staci Matlock, managing editor Virginia L. Clark, magazine editor Amy Boaz, copy editor Karin Eberhardt, creative director Chris Wood, advertising director Sean Ratliff, production manager Morgan Timms, photographer Lynne Robinson, Tempo editor Paul Gutches, digital editor

by Amber Burke

Town of Taos and vicinity 32 Taos walking map 34

CONTACT The Taos News 226 Albright Street, Taos, NM 87571 (575) 758-2241 | taosnews.com discovertaos.com

Dipping a line Taos Inn

Fishing the rivers and creeks of Taos County 86

Where history and art collide 62 by Tamra Testerman

by Rick Romancito

118 ANGEL FIRE

Taos hospitality Places to stay and play 68 by Dena Miller

Four-season Rocky Mountain high Summer in Taos Ski Valley 90 by Lauren Seale Take a hike or bike

104 TAOS HOUSES

This land is your land 98 Kid-friendly fun Camps, bowling, fishing 100 Taos houses Diverse design, similar sustainability 104 by Lauren Seale

MORGAN TIMMS/TAOS NEWS

26

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

27


PAID POLITICAL ADVERTISEMENT

Welcome to Taos County

Welcome and enjoy

AND NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

L

ocals love the land of Taos so much they can’t wait to get away from their screens and into nature. Whether hiking it, biking it, driving through it or painting it – Northern New Mexico is like no other place on earth. We have our favorite rock outcropping or bend in the road, a special tree at a hilltop or walk along a certain stream. Monsoons have a special feel, as do simple drives in the countryside. All of which never ceases to spread joy like a smile through every cell in the body.

I’m proud to represent the people of our northern New Mexico community. As New Mexico State Senator for District 6, I work hard to ensure the protection of our valuable cultural and natural resources. Whether you’re coming back for more New Mexican adventures or this is your rst visit to our High-Desert Paradise, we're glad to have you here. Stop and take in the views, savor the green chile, explore the backcountry, and enjoy the shopping.

We're glad to have you here! State Senate

Roberto “Bobby” J. Gonzales District 6, Democrat

Many of our summer events and historical sites have been canceled or temporarily closed due to safety precautions (COVID-Safe Practices or CSPs) throughout the state. But social distancing, masks and frequent hand-sanitizing has proven highly effective as physical deterrents to spreading or contracting coronavirus, as Taos County’s numbers have shown. It is well known by medical science that prolonged stress lowers immune systems, as reiterated in Psychology Today’s recent story on how unrelieved fear increases the risk of viral infections (“Your Panic is Increasing Your Risk,” March 14, 2020). Being mindful of stressful thoughts and choosing to focus elsewhere, as in interacting with nature, exploring art galleries, shops, landmarks and historic sites, all qualify as reducing stress and building immune systems – the exact emotional component needed for healthy, happy people observing good physical distancing practices. Remember, you deserve joy. You deserve laughter, fun and walks in the woods with those you love. Welcome to Taos and enjoy! For more on COVID-Safe Practices in New Mexico, see “Safe and happy in Taos” on page 35 in this visitor guide.

Virginia L Clark

DISCOVER TAOS 2020 EDITOR

PAID FOR BY THE COMMITTEE TO RE-ELECT ROBERTO “BOBBY” J. GONZALES 28

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Sometimes when you look at the world, it’s hard to feel you can make a difference. With Fair Trade, you can.

216B Paseo del Pueblo Norte 575-751-1256 taosmoxie.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

29


Red River

Questa Tres Piedras San Cristobal Arroyo Hondo

río arriba

Ojo Caliente

Arroyo Seco

Angel Fire

Ranchos de Taos

Pilar MAIN ROUTE TO TAOS

Picuris Pueblo Peñasco

Velarde

Chimayó

HIGH ROAD TO TAOS

Mora

Española Los Alamos

Eagle Nest

Taos Pueblo

TAOS

taos

Taos Ski Valley

mora

Pojoaque 0

5

10

15

20

M I L E S

santa fe SANTA FE

san miguel Las Vegas

30

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


FIRST PLACE

°

'(+-! +'

' 0 & 1" ( '- + (+

"- / Ê

/ -/,9

Thank you to our amazing team and phenomenal patients atients

for your support over the past 22 years A. Harris, DDS • Kayci M. Harris, DMD

575.751.9661 1337 Gusdorf Rd, Suite A | Taos | kellieharrisdds.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

31


nde

NORTH ON HWY 522 TO QUESTA, RED RIVER,WILD RIVERS RECREATION AREA, VALLE VIDAL, and DENVER, CO.

CARSON N AT I O N A L FOREST

Gra

SAN CRISTÓBAL

TAOS

RD.

150

Río

25

VALDEZ HOND O / SEC O

Black Rock Hot Springs

WEST ON HWY 64 TO WORLD EARTHSHIP COMMUNITY, TRES PIEDRAS, US 285, OJO CALIENTE, CHAMA and ANTONITO, CO.

LLEY

SKI VA

RD .

▲ CARSON N AT I O N A L FOREST

RIM RD.

ARROYO HONDO

B143 230

TAOS SKI VALLEY Wheeler Peak 13,161ft.

ARROYO SECO

Manby Hot Springs

522

6

115

150 Taos Regional Airport

SOUTH ON 115 TO OJO CALIENTE

GER S RD

.

10

TAOS PUEBLO

Overland Ranch Complex

MILL

ICEN

T RO

EL PRADO

0

1

1 KILOMETER

1 MILE

EK

RE

IL C

. RD E

VA LV E

RT H

CA ÑO N

IN O

AB O

AJ

D.

ES

TE

DE LA MA LO

NA

RD

.

Y. S HW

48

D.

AN

AD

R.

.

RD

O TA

. RD EST AS MA

TR

RIO .

RD

LD

ZA RD.

E VAL

S

O

ESPINO

L

AI

49

LLANO QUEMADO

MORA

DO RD

.

TALPA CARSON N AT I O N A L FOREST

Map by Burrell Brenneman. ©Taos News. Reproduction by permission only.

SOUTH ON HWY 68 TO PILAR, RIO GRANDE VISITOR CENTER, ORILLA VERDE RECREATION AREAS, DIXON, ESPAÑOLA, and SANTA FE

SOUTH ON HWY 518 TO POT CREEK CULTURAL SITE PICURÍS PUEBLO, PEÑASCO, SIPAPU SKI AREA and HIGH ROAD

MO NTO BU YA RC LIE H DO BERT LAN VIG IL

Holy Cross Medical Center

MORGAN RD.

Dennis Hopper Gravesite

5

D.

OR SD GU

43 44

SR

DO

RANCHOS DE TAOS

50

OR .

SD

PA SE OD EL PU EB LO SU R

O

.

RD

GU

MIN

RD

AL TA R

˜ CANON

EAST ON HWY 64 TO SHADY BROOK, VALLE ESCONDIDO, ANGEL FIRE, VIETNAM VETERANS MEMORIAL STATE PARK, CIMARRON, EAGLE NEST, UTE PARK, and RATON

38

Z

DE

AN

RN

FE

PASEO DEL CAÑON EAST Y

FR

CA

ISA

O

O

30

State Police

AM

AD EM QU ER

UZ

A

W

34

CH

O M

CR

35

AN O

28

D.

BE

RO

W .R

FR

LAZ SA ER CE D

45

RD

LL

110

CE R RV AN TES

D. RR IME WE

LA

T

39

TIE

31

CA M

240

IL

37

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

ST.

42

DE

L

.

H

PAS EO DEL PU EBL OS UR

AR

. RD ED IO

RD

M

L

LA M

CARSON N AT I O N A L FOREST

IGH

ON

D.

LAS CRUCES RD.

D.

DE

32

BR

41

P

.

|

DE

FR

PA

29

AL

40

TA

S

TR

OS HIT

NC

C

O

WIT

33

PA SE O

LA

RR

54 RA

U

32

NE

CA MI NO

C

.

D. NR SO AR TC KI

RD

RD.

LOS CÓRDOVAS

RD

. RD S O IT H C N RA ER PP U

HE

Taos-Picurís Indian Health Services

NDOS RD .

46

IT

CH

AN

RR

WE

R OS

D.

47

RD

S

LO

VAS

RDO

D.

LO

ER

PO

240

SIL

L

8

ER R

TAOS

2

240 RD.

RANCHITOS

GOAT SPRINGS RD.

SPID

RTE

36

RANCHITOS

O SC

NO

O

. O LN ONIM GER

Not all roads are shown on this map.

Red Willow Farmer’s Market

RAN

BL UE

BL

UE

LP

BE

Town of Taos and vicintiy

.

RD

Taos Mountain Casino

VETE

RR YH

ILL

E PASEO D

RD

.

HA

585

CARSON N AT I O N A L FOREST


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

33


MUSEUMS

HISTORIC BUILDINGS

NOTEWORTHY SITES

6 7 11 13 18 23 24

1 2 3 4 5

A Kit Carson Park & Cemetery B Location of original Our Lady of Guadalupe Church C Taos Community Auditorium D First Presbyterian Church E D.H. Lawrence Ranch

TAOS.org/100 34

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

E.L. Blumenschein House Harwood Museum of Art Governor Charles Bent House Taos Art Museum at Fechin House Kit Carson Home & Museum Millicent Rogers Museum Hacienda de los Martínez

8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 19 20 21 22

Taos Plaza Hotel La Fonda de Taos Historic County Courthouse Our Lady of Guadalupe Church Guadalupe Plaza and Santistevan House Padre Martínez House La Loma Plaza Long John Dunn House Bert Phillips House Arthur Manby House The Historic Taos Inn El Ríncon Trading Post Walter Ufer Studio Luna Chapel and Sharp Studio Eanger Irving Couse House Mabel Dodge Luhan House Victor Higgins House

OFF THE MAP

San Francisco de Asís Church Taos Pueblo Arroyo Seco


New Mexico Safe New Mexican citizens and businesses follow COVID-19 Safe Practices

staff report

Karla Foronda of Danza Azteca, in a community procession for the Blessing of the Waters ceremony this spring.

T

O BEST PROTECT loved ones and visitors from the threat of coronavirus infections, as of a June 8, 2020 initiative, New Mexicans can now make their protective behaviors official. Making New Mexico the safest place for its families, workers, customers and visitors is the mission of New Mexico Safe Promise, where communities support each other to ensure New Mexicans are self-accountable in abiding by best-practice safety standards, as set out by the New Mexico Department of Health ordinances and Centers for Disease Control guidelines (see infobox, right). “We are 100 percent behind the New Mexico Safe Promise,” said Karina Armijo, director of town of Taos marketing and tourism, noting this is an initiative “that motivates our entire community to do all we can to stand together and make the promise to provide a safe place to live and work for all New Mexicans.”

NEW MEXICO SAFE PROMISE I promise to: T Use a face covering while in public; T Stay six feet apart from others; T Stay home when sick; T Sanitize hands frequently, per recommended hygiene practice s; T Participate in any COVID-19-related training made available at my workplaces. To make the promise, visit NMSafePromise.org.

Currently, our buildings are required to operate at 50 percent of standard occupancy. We also ask locals and visitors to be socially responsible and practice physical distancing of six feet, or two arms’ lengths, between guests; and when dining, limiting group maximums to six per dining table. Face coverings or masks are required except when eating, drinking and exercising, or if a health care provider instructs otherwise. At press time, COVID-19 Safe Practices (CSPs) prohibit congregating in groups larger than five people. Area businesses are providing as clean a destination for guests as possible, often providing extra resources, such as hand sanitizer, wipes and masks. Businesses are also following guidelines, where possible, regarding cleaning of common areas. Instituted by the New Mexico

Morgan Timms/Taos News

Hospitality Association, the New Mexico Safe Promise initiative hopes to unify the entire state of New Mexico through the protection of the health of its communities, residents and customers in the safe, progressive reopening of businesses throughout the state. Even as businesses begin reopening, New Mexicans and visitors can plan their next adventures by exploring the wonders of the state from home through virtual, interactive activities. From soaring in a hot air balloon to exploring art and cultural centers, to browsing the works of Georgia O’Keeffe or taking a virtual hike through national parks and monuments, visitors can explore what New Mexico has to offer through a virtual setting from the comfort and safety of their home. For more information on virtual tours, classes, live streams and more, visit newmexico.org/virtual-tours. For more information on the New Mexico Safe Promise campaign and to make the promise, visit NMSafePromise.org. For updates on travel restrictions, directives and closures in New Mexico, visit newmexico.org/ covid-19-traveler-information. D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

35


ESCAPE Locals love the wet ’n’ wild waters of the Río Grande, especially during spring runoff! Here, competitors tackle Albert's Falls during the Saturday Slalom race at last year’s annual Mother's Day Whitewater Races at the Racecourse in Pilar, a rivertown at the south boundary of Taos County. The Mother’s Day race has been happening for more than 60 years and is among the oldest organized river races in the country.

36

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

like a local


Morgan Timms/Taos News


710 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, NM 575-758-5885 • MattressMary.com

Courtesy of the Essential Guide 38

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


815 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, NM 575-758-7730 • MattressMary.com

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

39


FROLIC

like a local

Taoseñas Reyna Garcia, 11, and Ciara Lewis, 10, play with Hula-hoops on Civic Plaza Drive during the 2019 Paseo, whose theme was ‘Connections’ – presenting a series of immersive and participatory art installations celebrating, contemplating and questioning our interactions with each other, nature and the world. The Paseo is a free, immersive, nighttime art festival that brings installation, projection and performance art every September to Taos.

40

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Morgan Timms/Taos News


MARVEL

like a local

Whether from mesas, foothills or forests, locals take every chance they get to bask under the starry, starry nights of Taos skies. The New Mexico Night Sky Protection Act of 1999 was passed to promote energy efficiency, reduce light pollution and protect the dark skies for future generations’ wonder and awe. When we gaze into the night skies, we look at history and the future – watching stars being born, living and dying, all at the same time.

C O U RT ESY TAO S S K I VA L L E Y

42

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


WHY GO THROUGH LIFE THINKING, “WHAT IF?”

Photo: Geriant Smith

Local knowledge. Expert advice.

Real Estate’s Forever Brand TM

KRISTINE WOOD Associate Broker

cell: 575-770-6258 | kristinewood@newmex.com www.bhhstaosrealestate.com

314A Paseo del Pueblo Norte Taos • 575-758-1924 ©2019 BHH Affiliates, LLC. An independently operated subsidiary of HomeServices of America, Inc., a Berkshire Hathaway affiliate, and a franchisee of BHH Affiliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol are registered service marks of HomeServices of America, Inc.® Equal Housing Opportunity.

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

43


STRUT

like a local

Samantha Brody and 4-year-old Autumn Brody walk the runway during the 2019 Glam Trash Fashion Show on Taos Plaza, a free public art event featuring a runway contest of recycled wearable art. Glam Trash ‘fash’ is as outrageous as locals can possibly be – sashaying to the music of a live band in a glitter-filled, all-ages celebration of recycling, fashion and creativity.

Morgan Timms/Taos News 44

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


SAVOR

like a local

Nothing says Taos like a breakfast burrito. Once you have it, you’ll be hooked. This year’s winner in Best of Taos survey is again Mante’s Chow Cart at 402 Paseo del Pueblo Sur in town, or 1541 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, south of town (find them both on Facebook). This much-loved local foodie favorite is traditionally made with scrambled eggs, bacon or sausage, cheese, potatoes and red or green chile, all rolled up in a big, warm tortilla, piled on the side with rice and beans. To die for.

Morgan Timms/Taos News D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

45


ARTES, CULTURA, HISTORIA

Onward and upward

staff report

Harwood Museum features 45 artists in virtual art exhibitions “Sunday Cruisers, 2007,”; by Marie Romero Cash; Jelutong; gesso; watercolor; string; vintage car tires; sterling silver; 11 × 24 × 11 inches.

A

lthough both of the Harwood Museum’s summer exhibitions were in the works many months ago, there is something fitting that during a time when we are, for health reasons, staying close to home, the Harwood Museum’s newest exhibitions feature artists from our region. In total, works by 45 New Mexican artists are on display, most from right here in Taos.

Juniper Manley, executive director of the Harwood Museum of Art, feels that supporting area artists is core to the mission of the museum and a major aspect of the local economy. “Because access has been limited, we are for the first time adding a digital exhibition platform including interviews and expanded content about the artists.” Las Santeras – Images of faith and folklore Las Santeras includes the work of 21 female devotional artists from New Mexico and Colorado which is the first major exhibition of its kind. “We are very excited to offer the most significant exhibition of female santos carvers ever curated and exhibited in this way,” said Nicole Dial-Kay, curator of exhibitions and collections at the Harwood Museum. Gustavo Victor Goler is the guest curator for Las Santeras. A New Mexican contemporary santero and art conservator who restores works of devotional art, Goler is well-versed in the cultural arts of the region. “I thought it would be interesting to have an in-depth study on the Santeras, their journeys and histories,” Goler said.

46

|

The carving of saints by santeros began with the early Spanish settlers who needed them in the practice of their religion. Early in the 20th century, several women from Córdova, a small mountain town on the High-Road to Taos, began to take up the tradition of their elder family members, becoming “santeras,” the female counterpart to “santeros.” The practice soon spread beyond Córdova throughout the region. The devotional arts of New Mexico have been elevated to a status of international respect and recognition, in no small part, due to the work of these talented artists. Contemporary art / Taos 2020 The Harwood Museum invited living Taos artists to submit work for consideration for its Contemporary Art / Taos 2020 exhibition, giving local artists the opportunity to have art curators from outside New Mexico review their work. This rigorous juried process resulted in the selection of 24 Taos artists from 313 applicants. The jury panel consisted of Harwood’s Curator of Exhibitions and Collections Nicole Dial-Kay; Chief Curator Emeritus at the Albright-Knox Douglas Dreishpoon, who is also director of the Catalogue Raisonné project at the Helen Frankenthaler Foundation in New York City; and Associate Curator Dakota Hoska, of Native Arts at the Denver Art Museum. The jurors selected 31 artists for virtual studio tours, as well as 24 finalists for the exhibition. The Harwood is also collaborating with local galleries to show work by some of the tremendous artists who cannot be included in the exhibition.

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

“In choosing artists for the exhibition, we balanced equity of representation to reflect the many perspectives of the Taos community,” said Dial-Kay. “The resulting group of artists is an astonishing spread of talent diversely manifest in oil painting, site-specific installations, light sculptures, photography, murals, ceramics and more.” Dreishpoon, who has a long history with the Taos arts community, said, “There seems to be a willingness on the part of many Taos artists to experiment, to do things that may or may not succeed, but which propel them forward in positive ways. The tendency to stretch out, even if it means failing, may be Taos’ artistic legacy as a frontier town where one could afford to press the envelope of their creativity. Taos, to my mind and eyes, remains one of the most vital regional art communities in the U.S.” The Harwood has added a digital platform to showcase the artists in both new exhibitions, creating a micro-website (harwoodart. org) that provides a glimpse into the work and lives of each of these artists. Every artist has a web

page featuring a biography, virtual studio tours, interviews and more. Content will be continuously added. Museum Director Manley points out that, “The Harwood’s latest exhibitions demonstrate that Taos is as creative as ever. At this time especially, we can observe and celebrate this creativity so central to our community and to our resilience. I hope everyone, near and far, will find delight and inspiration in the work of our artists.” The Harwood Museum of Art anticipates reopening its doors July 9, and has already begun to roll-out a full schedule of digital offerings. For more go to harwoodmuseum.org or call (575) 758-9826.

“Patrona de la Santa Fe, 2004,” by Lorrie García; mixed media; 38 x 18 x 9 1/2 inches.

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.


An Invitation to Visit the Gonske Gallery & Studio September 26 & 27 • 1:00 to 4:00 PM

“Chamisa in Bloom” 22” x 28” oil on linen

*The Gonske Gallery & Studio is open by appointment during rest of the year.

Please check out the new small works available for purchase on my website.

1038 La Cienega Road • Taos NM 575.758.4042 • waltgonskeart@msn.com

waltgonske.com ALSO IN SEPTEMBER

PLEIN AIR PAINTERS OF AMERICA Exhibition at the Taos Art Museum

SEPTEMBER 1 - OCTOBER 11

PAPA Members Reception • Saturday, Sept 26 • 2:00 - 4:00 PM Located in the Nicolai Fechin Studio • 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

47


A NEW G EM AT A H I STO RIC T RE ASURE THE COUSE FOUNDATION is building THE LUNDER RESEARCH CENTER at Couse-Sharp Historic Site, focusing on the Taos Society of Artists and their artistic and social impact. Our vision includes an archive, research library, exhibition space, collections care, meeting space, internships, and artist-inresidence and scholar-in-residence programs. Full menu of sponsorship opportunities available—contact us to discuss how you can help bring these exciting programs to Taos and activate our historic district.

couse-sh harp p.org TAOS, TAOS S N E W M E X I CO

48

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

575 .751. 0369

thecousesharphistoricsite

cousesharp


Harwood Museum celebrates New Mexico’s creativity with 2 exhibitions featuring 45 artists.

Marie Romero Cash Arlene Cisneros Sena Gloria López Córdova Orlene Ortiz Córdova Rhonda Crespin Lorrie Garcia Lydia Garcia Monica Sosaya Halford Anita Romero Jones Benita Reino López Krissa Maria López

JUNE 13, 2020 - JANUARY 10, 2021

Las Santeras

IMAGES OF FAITH & FOLKLORE

Orlinda Sherwood López Sandra López Martinez Rosina López de Short Sabinita López-Ortiz Jean Anaya Moya Guadalupita Ortiz Bernadette Pino Catherine Robles-Shaw Tomasita Rodriguez Roxanne Shaw-Galindo

Curated by Gustavo Victor Goler

Lorrie Garcia. Patrona de la Santa Fe, 2004. 38 × 18 × 9 1/2 in. Courtesy of the Artist

Monique Belitz Nikesha Breeze Kathleen Brennan Lynnette Haozous Sarah Hart Katy Kidd Afton Love Terrie Mangat Gray Mercer Patricia Michaels Paul O’Connor Jess Peri Dean Pulver Sean Ratliff Solange Roberdeau

JULY 11, 2020 - APRIL 18, 2021

Anita Rodriguez Maria Samora Jan Sessler Brian Shields Nina Silfverberg Sarah Stolar J. Matthew Thomas Izumi Yokoyama Sasha vom Dorp

Sarah Stolar. Brittany (Suave qui puet), 2019. Oil on canvas, 72 x 96 x 3 in.

Explore virtually. Visit harwoodart.org to experience artist studios, interviews, curator gallery walkthroughs, and more. 238 LEDOUX ST 575.758.9826 HARWOODMUSEUM.ORG

Explore in the museum. Safely

see the art in the galleries with a socially distanced viewing experience.

TO REVIEW THE SAFETY MEASURES BEING TAKEN TO KEEP OUR PUBLIC AND STAFF SAFE, PLEASE VISIT HARWOODMUSEUM.ORG/COVIDSAFE D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

49


ARTES, CULTURA, HISTORIA

Taos Pueblo: Steadfast and authentic Celebrating 50th anniversary return of Blue Lake

RICK ROMANCITO/TAOS NEWS

Fifty years ago, on Dec. 15, 1970, thenU.S. President Richard M. Nixon signed into effect Public Law 91-550 finally returning Blue Lake to Taos Pueblo, an epic victory for Native American rights and upholding tribal sovereignty, according to taospueblo.com.

While this may have started out as a positive cultural exchange, a great offense began to grow in New Mexico as some of these holy men, isolated from the formal church in Mexico City, violated the tenets given them as they headed north.

In a statement, Nixon said, “This is a bill that represents justice, because in 1906 an injustice was done in which land involved in this bill, 48,000 acres, was taken from the Indians involved, the Taos Pueblo Indians. The Congress of the United States now returns that land to whom it belongs … I can’t think of anything more appropriate or any action that could make me more proud as president of the United States.”

Instead of following orders to respect the beliefs of the Native population, some were convinced the religion followed by Pueblo Indians was satanic and set about destroying it by using allies in the Spanish military. Tribal religious leaders were arrested and tortured, some killed, and the underground chambers where rituals were conducted known as kivas, were torn apart. Objects and shrines of great significance to the proper performance of ceremonials were ruined.

That victory is but one chapter in a vivid history that saw the people of Taos Pueblo at the center of monumental events. by RICK ROMANCITO

I

n 1906,

President Theodore Roosevelt established the Carson National Forest, setting aside over a million acres in Northern New Mexico for outdoor recreation, grazing and resource extraction.

However, inside this land was the 48,000acre Blue Lake Watershed that had been used for Native religious ceremonials by Taos Pueblo tribal members for millennia.

Dramatic changes The Taos people have occupied this valley for more than a 1,000 years, during which they thrived with their own language, traditions, tribal government and religion that predated Plymouth Rock, the Liberty Bell and the Constitutional Congress. They were here when a group of scouts led by Captain Hernando Alvarado, who were under the command of Spanish conquistador Francisco Vázquez de Coronado, first glimpsed their multistory adobe village on Aug. 29, 1540.

When it did this, the federal government did not inform the pueblo of its intentions. Tribal leaders learned of it after the fact. When the tribe objected and asked the federal administration to reverse its decision regarding Blue Lake, it refused, stating such a move was “foreign to the policies of the Department of Agriculture, when once some land has been set aside as a National Forest, to allow it to be withdrawn completely and donated to a private purpose.”

And, they were here when the Spanish began establishing colonies nearby in 1598. But this cultural exchange was not without conflict.

Battle lines drawn

But the many adobe villages (pueblos, in Spanish) dotting the landscape, mostly along the Río Grande, were a diverse collection of people following a variety of beliefs and customs. Spanish missionaries immediately set out to make inroads by employing translators and learning the Native languages.

Thus began a decades-long fight, waged by tribal elders some of whom spoke only their native Tiwa language but who traveled many times to Washington, D.C., with interpreters to plead their case, often to deaf ears. Most never lived to see its end. But, the fight finally did end.

50

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

When Spanish colonists arrived south of here, led by Don Juan de Oñate, their mission followed Coronado’s failed expedition to find the fabled Lost Cities of Gold almost 60 years before. While no glittering castles of gold were found, the church took note of a new population of souls to save in New Spain.

These ceremonials, part of complex and dynamic ritual cycles, were, and continue to be, extremely important to the people of these pueblos. Without them, they envision a world thrown into chaos. In addition, the Spanish imposed two systems as part of their government that led to more abuses. One, called encomienda, meant that lands and the Natives living upon it could be seized as reward “for purposes of tribute and evangelization” (merriam-webster.com). The other, called repartimiento, allowed colonists to use Native people as forced labor (britannica.com). Still, when marauding bands of nomadic Natives attacked to rob colonists of horses, goods and slaves, they would take refuge at Taos Pueblo where the multistoried homes had entrances in the roof accessible by ladders, which they pulled up to prevent invasion. Seeds of rebellion Combined with violent acts designed to suppress Native freedoms, these systems created enormous upheaval. Finally, in 1680, the Pueblo people of New Mexico had enough. It began with a religious leader named Pópay. Although he was from Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo (formerly San Juan) where Oñaté established the first Spanish colony, his plans for a revolt were fomented at Taos Pueblo. From here, he enlisted a secret network of runners that would take messages to other pueblos to alert them of the coming uprising. 52


Taos Pueblo tribal elder and Blue Lake-struggle veteran Gilbert Suazo, left, holding drum, takes part in a procession starting off the Return of Blue Lake ceremonies Saturday, Sept. 18, 1970. Rick Romancito, Taos News

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

51


ARTES, CULTURA, HISTORIA

These are the ruins of the second Catholic church at Taos Pueblo named after St. Jerome. The first was destroyed during the 1680 Pueblo Revolt. This one was destroyed by the U.S. Cavalry under the command of Gen. Stephen Watts Kearny during the 1847 Taos Revolt. Rebels had taken refuge in the church hoping the military would respect the concept of sanctuary afforded houses of worship. Rick Romancito/Taos News

They did not. It should be noted that many of those inside the church were women and children as the men retreated into mountains above the pueblo hoping to lead the soldiers away. A fierce battle ensued in which American cannons destroyed the church walls, killing about 150 rebels and capturing hundreds more. As vibrant today as in the past Taos Pueblo persevered, and became the center of attention for artists at the turn of the 20th century. By 1912, when New Mexico became a state, the community of Don Fernando de Taos was a thriving art colony known over the country as a place of scenic wonder.

Rick Romancito/Taos News

From left are Curtis Sandoval, Richard Archuleta, Gilbert Suazo, Luis Romero and Nicholas A. Concha singing the Taos Pueblo flag song composed in honor of Blue Lake. The occasion was the opening ceremonies in December 2010 of a Harwood Museum exhibition of memorabilia collected during the nearly 60-year-long struggle to return the tribe's sacred Blue Lake from US government control.

T

51

Taos Pueblo: Steadfast and authentic

he week before the planned uprising, a runner carrying a knotted rope — which signified the days remaining before the event — was captured and tortured. Although he revealed the plan, it was too late to stop it. On Aug. 10, 1680, the Pueblo Revolt began at Taos Pueblo and quickly spread to all the pueblos. Surviving Spanish colonists fled to Santa Fe, where they took refuge until pueblo rebels cut off their water supply. They were then allowed to safely leave for Mexico City. The Spanish colonists were allowed to return in 1692 in what some have called the “reconquest.” In reality, the return was marked by sporadic outbursts of violence and bloodshed, but eventually the Spanish reestablished their foothold in New Spain. This was partly successful because the government in Mexico rebuked church and military leaders for abusing the powers granted them in the first place.

The Spanish reentry into New Mexico was relatively accepted. At Taos Pueblo, 52

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

the blend of cultures began to see the introduction of mountain men and other adventurers seeking a new life in this rugged land. Eventually, Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821. The last great uprising in Taos occurred on Jan. 19, 1847, when combined Taos Pueblo and Hispanic rebels rose up against the Americans who were planning to annex New Mexico as part of the United States. They believed the new government, represented by Territorial Governor Charles Bent, was intent on seizing all their lands. They murdered Bent and many government and civil officials before heading north to Arroyo Hondo and attacking Turley Mill. As soon as Col. Sterling Price was informed of the revolt, he and more than 300 troops and volunteers rode north, defeating a large contingent of rebels at Embudo Pass before heading to Taos. There, rebels had taken refuge within the adobe walls of the San Geronimo Church at Taos Pueblo in the belief soldiers would honor the time-honored tradition of sanctuary.

The people of Taos Pueblo maintain a way of life that is based upon a culture that continues to thrive despite challenges and conflict. Tribal members were and are a strong presence in America’s military, having participated in every action from the Civil War to the present, always with the dedication in mind that they represent a strong warrior tradition to protect their land and people whatever the cost. Many are artists themselves, distinguishing their works on the local and national stage where their unique vision is celebrated for its creative vision. And, many tribal members excel in the professional sector, adding their skills to the region’s burgeoning infrastructure. The tribe also invites visitors to various dances and ceremonials over the year, but there are some restrictions. Because these dances are part of the tribe’s Native religion, officials prohibit all cameras (including cellphones) and recording devices. And, don’t forget the annual Taos Pueblo Powwow, which usually happens on the second weekend in July, but which is cancelled this year due to COVID-19 precautions. This secular event, put on by a committee of tribal members separate from tribal government, brings intertribal dancers and drummers from all over the country to an arbor arena west of the historic village. Located at the end of Ben Romero Road in El Prado, the powwow offers a three-day colorful and vibrant Native American experience under the watchful gaze of Pueblo Peak. For more information, check the website at taospueblo.com or call (575) 758-1028.

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.


ART | GIFTS | HOME ACCENTS | DESIGN SERVICES

Authentic Taos with a modern flair. Come step through the door of our 250 year old historic adobe home turned art gallery and see all that Jones Walker of Taos has to offer! From original artwork by legendary Taos artists to beautiful New Mexico traditional weaving to amazing Taos potters to handmade drums by a drum maker from Taos Pueblo we’ve got something for everyone!

joneswalkeroftaos.com

127 BENT STREET • TAOS • 575.758.7965 D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

53


L A R RY M A RT I N E Z J E W E L E R . C O M

Celebrating 49 years of custom jewelry design

AA Rating

822 Paseo del Pueblo Sur • 575.758.4169

G.I.A. TRAINED

FIRST PLACE

Krysteen Waszak Contemporary

Plein Air Oil Paintings

Events

Taos Art Studio Tour September 5-7, 2020 Rio Grande Arts & Crafts Festival: Balloon Fiesta Show October 2nd-4th & 9th-11th, 2020 Sandia Resort & Casino | Albuquerque, NM

Studios visits in Taos and Albuquerque by appointment 505-250-0455 krysteen@krysteenwaszak.com instagram/krysteenwaszakart Pilar River Valley 30x40 Framed, Plein Air Oil on Canvas 54

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

www.krysteenwaszak.com


‘True New Me Mexico’ 24” x 30”

WORLD-CLASS PERFORMANCES FROM

A Summer Virtual

NEW

( We s

JUNE 21 – AUGUST 9, 2020 Borromeo String Quartet Shanghai Quartet Daedalus String Quartet Robert McDonald, piano Thomas Sauer, piano Ara Gregorian, violin

LOC

t of t he P laza and behi nd U S Ba nk

AT I O N

www.marystrattonart.com marystrattonart@aol.com

www.TaosSchoolofMusic.com | Taos, New Mexico

!

)

575-770-0760 • 102 Dona Luz, Taos, NM 87571

Sans Nom, 4’ x 6’

Gary Paul

303.514.5151 9 Calle Casa del Cielo • El Prado D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

55


ARTES, CULTURA, HISTORIA

Magical Taos

by VIRGINIA L CLARK

Jones Walker Gallery hopeful harbinger for Taos art

T

here's magic afoot in Taos and that is what owners-artists Max Jones and Tony Walker feel about their Jones Walker Gallery of Taos, 127 Bent Street, a business dedicated to “art, gifts, home accents and design.”

Walker and Jones are the rock stars of online marketing in Taos. Walker said they do tons of social media every day. “It takes a lot of time, but it makes people feel like they’re here and connected.” Since the COVID-19 lockdown, they took photos of everything in the gallery and put new work online everyday. Jones said they needed an online store on the website, so they did it. “You have two choices – sit at home and whine about the lockdown or get off your [butt] and do it!” Walker said. They only represent Taos artists – Jim Wagner, Nancy Ortenstone, Peggy McGivern among others, like Taos Pueblo scratchboard artist Jocelyn Martinez, woodcarver Andy Greif, fine and functional fused-glass artist Scott Messick and former astronomer-im-

pressionistic realism oil painter C.S. Tally. Max Jones’ work separates out to “Maxterpieces” and Rothko-inspired “Mini Maxes,” gilded-framed squares of two predominant color blocks. “We love the whole community here,” Jones said, “all the artists and gallerists are so supportive of each other.” Hailing from Dallas, Texas, in 2017, Walker had been a Taos regular since age 7, and wanted husband Max to like it too, noting “with Taos, you either love it or hate it.” But for Jones, too, it was love at first sight. So far their fine art paintings, sculpture, ceramics, up-cycled decor, design, wearables and library table of both old and new Taos art books, plus Jones’ painting/demo studio, are stirring Taos creatives’ pot and promising more Taos magic for years to come. For more information, contact (575) 758-7965 or see joneswalkeroftaos.com. Jones Walker of Taos has a caveat for all – “You reap what you sow.” COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

56

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Clockwise: ‘En La Sangre,’ 12x16-inch original black scratchboard by Taos Pueblo Artist Jocelyn Martinez, at Jones Walker Gallery of Taos. Barry Norris Studio T Paintings by Nancy Ortenstone in Jones Walker Gallery on Bent Street. Tony Walker T Juniper wood carving by Daniel Barela, paintings by legendary Taos artist Jim Wagner. Tony Walker


ONE WOMAN SHOW

TERUKO WILDE “

EVERLASTING”

RECEPTION: SATURDAY AUGUST 15 • 4:00-7:00 PM Show will remain open from August 7th to 29th Noon -6:00 pm • Thur - Sun

SILENT BID AUCTION

Autumn in Northern, NM 24x24” oil

PROCEEDS BENEFITING

BAREISS GALLERY 15 ROUTE 150 | EL PRADO, NM 87529

For Inquiries contact 575.770.1968 or go to terukowilde.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

57


‘CAULDRON OF CREATIVITY’

“THE TOM TOM PLAYER” E.I. COUSE, OIL ON CANVAS, CA. 1913

58

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Couse Foundation breaks ground for Lunder Research Center

by TAMRA TESTERMAN

Scott Gerdes The Couse Foundation announced its May 18 groundbreaking for construction of The Lunder Research Center at the CouseSharp Historic Site. Temporarily closed to visitors due to the COVID-19 outbreak, it is scheduled to reopen July 1, 2020. Dedicated to the early Taos art colony, the painters who became known as the Taos Society of Artists didn’t embark casually on a painting jaunt to Taos to dabble in Southwest culture. They moved lock, stock and barrel from their 1920s cosmopolitan cities in the East to a dusty village with bumpy dirt roads far from the sound of a lonesome train whistle. The TSA artists built adobe homes, raised families and began an artistic dialogue with the people of Taos, the dramatic landscapes and the temperamental light of Northern New Mexico. The art they produced changed the world’s perceptions of the peoples and cultures of the Taos Valley forever. The Couse-Sharp Historic Site, which consists of the home, studio and gardens of TSA co-founders E.I. Couse and J.H. Sharp, is located in the heart of the Taos historic district. Davison Packard Koenig, executive director and curator of the Couse-Sharp site, said the Couse Foundation mission is “to preserve and interpret the CouseSharp Historic Site, its buildings, grounds and collections, and the archives of the Taos Society of Artists, through education, collaboration and scholarly engagement. The Couse Foundation vision is to be the center for scholarship of E. I. Couse, J. H. Sharp, and the Taos Society of Artists. “The TSA story resonates around the world,” Koenig continued, “and we have built partnerships with museums, galleries, auction houses, collectors and artists who are invested in the story of Taos art."

As part of the educational and scholarly outreach mission of the Couse-Sharp Historic Site, the Lunder Research Center is a major research center and museum with ample exhibition space, an extensive research library, archival and collections storage, curatorial work space and administrative offices, scheduled to open in 2021. The Lunder Research Center is named after Peter and Paula Lunder – passionate art collectors, philanthropists and friends of the foundation. The new facility will be state-of-the-art for environmental controls (temperature/ relative humidity), security and fire suppression. Koenig said there are plans for future green initiatives, including a photovoltaic solar array and rainwater-collection system. It will be the first solar-array museum in Taos.

Courtesy photo

Taos Society of Artists founding member Oscar E. Berninghaus in his Taos studio.

The lead architect for the project is Henry Architects, located in Arroyo Seco, in Taos County. Koenig said the work will be done with local contractors where possible. “The project is a ground-up reconstruction with all new plumbing, electrical, HVAC, windows and roof, to create a secure museum envelope,” Koenig said. “We will keep the original appearance of the exterior, Pueblo/Mission revival, while the interior will strikingly combine modern features while referencing the historic nature of the building and site.” Koenig noted that because the focus is on a broad international audience supported by a powerful community, including work with indigenous communities, it is expected that the Lunder Research Center will increase “visibility and attendance by bringing scholars, students, artists and art enthusiasts to immerse themselves in the story of early Taos art. Just as important to impart to these audiences is the story of the relationships these early 20th-century

painters built with the community that helped them produce such profound works of art.” “In this unlikely cauldron of creativity, which began at the turn of the last century,” Koenig concluded, “artists and intellectuals from around the world could meet new friends with whom to talk theory, critique each other’s work and challenge themselves and their peers. Finding inspiration in a remote desert landscape, they were witness to, and participants in, a rich cultural community with a rhythm of life dictated by changing seasons and longstanding tradition.” For more information, call (575) 751-0369, email admin@couse-sharp.org or see couse-sharp.org.

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

|

59


ARTES, CULTURA, HISTORIA

Taos Plaza The

T

by DENA MILLER

of town

he history of Taos Plaza may go back centuries but its vibe is always of-the-moment.

From being the site of one of Northern New Mexico’s most comprehensive farmers’ markets, to being a weekly outdoor venue for live music and dancing, to being the home of Fiestas de Taos, to hosting the cutting-edge street artists of The Paseo, Taos Plaza remains the heart of town.

The plaza has seen some exciting new merchants grace its walkways and portals, and Manzanita Market (1), located at 103 North Plaza, is one of them. Offspring of The Love Apple, an acclaimed restaurant on the north side of town, Manzanita offers both a breakfast and lunch menu of “simple and wholesome food” relying upon locally

Local artist Stephen Kilborn and a dance partner liven up the dance floor during Taos Plaza Live in 2019. Rick Romancito/Taos News sourced seasonal organic ingredients. The welcoming, funky environment has made it a local favorite for meeting and eating. TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTO

Chokolá Bean to Bar Manzanita Market, located on the North East corner of the plaza, offers tea and fresh local organic lunch options f or townies and tourists alike.

TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTO

john d

unn

way

NAMBÉ ALLOY ‘LOVE BOWL’

larg juan

4

o ln

3

COVID-19 UPDATE TAOS PLAZA

Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

60

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

2

1

Or if you’re looking to relax with a glass of your favorite wine accompanied by some scrumptious small plates or charcuterie, then head to Parcht (2), a laid-back wine bar tucked under The Gorge Bar and Grill, at 103 East Plaza. It’s deservedly earned a local reputation as a choice gathering place with an uncommonly chill atmosphere, not to mention its stellar menu and carefully curated wines and craft beers. Afterwards, maybe you’re craving a hand-crafted truffle, or a sampling of chocolate mousse (be-still-my-heart as I write this). Visit Debi Vincent and her husband, Javier Abad, at their exquisite café called Chokola Bean to Bar (3), 100 Juan Largo Lane, where you’ll also enjoy pastries, ice cream, hot or cold sipping chocolate, and an extensive collection of single-origin chocolate bars. “Our customers love the actual experience of the shop,” the international award-winning chocolatiers say. “It’s the different tastes, textures and aromas mixed with hot and cold temperatures that makes our full tasting menu so popular.” Down the way, Studio 107B (4) stands as a singular plaza gallery, with its calendar of multicultural, multi-media shows. Artist/ gallery owner Máye Torres has energized the contemporary art scene with her themed pop-up shows that are both thoughtful and thought-provoking, attracting huge audiences.

TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTO

Máye Torres of Studio 107B gallery stands amid one of her exhibits on Taos Plaza. Torres is passionate about the local energy of Taos Plaza. “This is the center of what’s going on in Taos. Our friends and neighbors come out for the concerts [Taos Plaza Live: Thursday evenings, historically from May through October], they come out to support our local farmers, they go to Nambé (4) for wedding gifts and Mesa’s Edge (4) for birthday and anniversary gifts, supporting the region’s best artisans. “The food at Manzanita is pure and energizing,” Torres continued, “and Debi and Javier are preserving the crafting of chocolate like no one else in the world. I could go on about every one of us on the plaza. We have great food, great wines and most of all, representation of the best of contemporary artists local to Taos. “Taos is multicultural and we on the plaza strive to be equally representative across our three cultures and across the sexes,” she concluded. So while you’re eating, sipping and shopping like a local, keep an eye out for the unexpected. For, if nothing else, the historic Taos Plaza will always surprise you.


BETWEEN BENT STREET & TAOS PLAZA

20 Unique Shops, Galleries & Restaurants on a Beautiful Pedestrian Walkway AMINA’S CHILDREN’S BOUTIQUE

COYOTE MOON

MONET’S KITCHEN

KOKOPELLI FLUTES

MOONCAT FIBER

BEAD CREATIONS

LA TIERRA MINERAL GALLERY

OP.CIT BOOKSHOP

BENT STREET CAFÉ & DELI

LAS COMADRES GALLERY

CLARKE & CO. MENSWEAR

THE LITTLE PLACE BOUTIQUE

AMMANN GALLERY

CICI’S BEAN-ESPRESSO BAR COMMON THREAD

MODA~FOR WOMEN

SECONDS ECO STORE STEPPIN’ OUT STITCH-IN-TIME WILD EARTH REMEDIES

johndunnshops.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

61


TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTO

LAS POSADAS

by TAMRA TESTERMAN

Where history and art collide R

oom 102 in the Historic Taos Inn, on 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, is special. One of 45 unique guest rooms, this one room has a silver Nambé star on its door. It was the room reserved for Washington, D.C., writer Dee Strasberg every spring and fall, starting in 1951, until failing health kept her away.

Before her death in 2013, Strasberg asked that her ashes be buried in the inn’s courtyard. Strasberg left her old heavy typewriter at the inn so housekeeping could set it up in room 102, complete with fresh flowers, a bottle of wine and candies, for her arrival. The iconoclastic writer penned many of her 70-plus gothic romance and horror novels in room 102 under the pen name Daoma Winston. This attention to detail, wonderful food, music, cheerful staff and historic ambiance have been attracting writers, artists, movie stars and Taoseños to the inn for decades. Referred to as “the Living Room of Taos,” by former owner Feeny Lipscomb, the name has stuck because of the eclectic melting pot of conversation and local camaraderie on any night. The story of the inn begins near the turn of the 19th century, when Dr. Thomas Martin learned Taos was without a physician. In response, he and wife Helen, bought a sprawling adobe near the plaza and he devoted his life to taking care of the locals.

62

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Helen was an artist and sister-in-law of one of the Taos founders. She supported her fellow artists in town by helping found the Taos Society of Artists in the Martins’ dining room in 1912. Later, she offered rental housing to writers and artists. Doc Martin died in the mid-’30s, the same year the inn, Taos’ only hotel, burned down. Helen bought the property surrounding the courtyard and in 1936 opened the Hotel Martin. It became a favorite watering hole for artists, musicians, politicians and an occasional movie star.

visitors from near and far. I enjoy working with the staff – they are my family – and interacting with locals.” Sena said the classic neon Thunderbird sign was installed in 1946 and it is the only neon allowed in the historic district.

Current Operations Manager Julie Sena described how experiencing the seasons You can tell at the inn is always special, “whether its a lot about a lighting a fire in our lobby on a winter TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTO place by how it evening, walking the property seeing the treats its staff. flowers blooming and the great smell Sena said there of our beautiful lilacs. The adobe patio are a handful filled with people sipping our famous of employees margaritas on sultry summer days or just who’ve been with the inn for many years. sitting in our courtyard when the leaves “Douglas MacLennan has been working change color in the fall.” for the Taos Inn since May 1988. He was Sena has been with the inn for 13 years. the food and beverage manager for many She started as a housekeeper, worked years and the bartender for the Adobe Bar. Jessie Sanchez is our maintenance her way to the front desk and now is manager and has been working for the the operations manager. She said it is Taos Inn for 14 years.” a pleasure to work there because “it’s a beautiful historic property with lots of character. Everyday we are meeting

Doc Martin’s restaurant is located inside the Historic Taos Inn. From locally sourced bison to greens from their very own garden, Doc Martin’s award-winning cuisine embodies the Land of Enchantment. Morgan Timms/Taos News

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.


Overland Sheepskin started here in Taos, NM in 1973, offering sheepskin apparel and home goods made with meticulous craftsmanship. More than 45 years later, you’ll find the same level of artistry in every Overland coat, rug, slipper, and more. Come visit us 2 miles North of Taos, towards Taos Ski Valley at: 1405 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575)758-8820

OVERLAND.COM D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

63


The Most Extensive Public Holding of Maria Martinez Pottery in America.

Furniture / Home Décor / Gifts 119 Bent St, Taos NM ampersandoldandnew.com Follow us on Instagram! @ampersandoldandnew

Concerts, Rodeos, Fiestas and everything Taos.

1504 Millicent Rogers Road

millicentrogers.org

taosnews.com/calendar

AN ECLECTIC PLACE FOR THAT UNIQUE GIFT OR HOME ITEM create a passion for fashion!

Summer adventures include shopping where the locals shop! OPEN FRIDAY-SUNDAY 11AM TO 4 PM ONLINE AT FACEBOOK.COM/CFTAOS Open 10:00am to 5:30pm • Monday – Saturday ay

534Paseo Paseodel delPueblo Pueblo• •Norte Norte575.758.4633 575.758.4633 cftaos.com 534 58 4633 • •cftaos cftaos.com com 64

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

women’s consignment clothing

126 W. Plaza (south of US Bank on the Plaza) | 7 days a week | 575.758.4460


a Chloe - Str

y Hearts Foster Tur n

ed

Fa

mily

Favo

rit

e

Taos Twist & Kei & Molly

The Kitchen Shop on Bent St.

@

follow us @10000wags

WWW.10000WAGS.COM • 575-751-9247 Boarding, Daycare & Baths 7 Days a Week

• Educational Toys, Games & Puzzles

• Art Supplies • School Supplies • Craft Supplies • Teachers’ Aids • Workbooks • Greeting Cards • Journals • Stationery • Stickers • Fun Rubber Stamps • Party Decorations

Featuring Taos Twist Flatware

Open 7 days a week • 113 Bent St, Taos NM • 575.758.5435

visit us online ~ www.taoscookery.com

Servicing Taos for Over 35 years!

Unicorn School Supply If unique is what you seek…

575-758-4106 Please call for current hours

311 Paseo del Pueblo Sur Taos, N.M. 87571 unicornss@msn.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

65


66

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

67


LAS POSADAS

Taos hospitality

by DENA MILLER

Places to stay and play

W

COURTESY TAPESTRYCOLLECTION3.HILTON.COM

hen visiting Taos your choice of a place to stay can be just a pillow to rest your head or an engaging part of your experience. Taos offers a plethora of sophisticated choices close to town, the Taos Ski Valley or favorite hiking trails, all at appealing price points – a charming inn, a B&B, an historic building, an Airstream or an Earthship. Whatever adventure you’re looking to have, our hospitality industry has you covered.

Herrera, who oversaw the renovation of the 6-acre, 125-room property, said meticulous detail was given to the comfortably furnished rooms, the sprawling property and its artisan restaurant. Decor relies heavily upon local artists, including Charles Collins and Ann Huston. Head up to the north side of town to the similarly transformed Kachina Lodge Resort Hotel and Meetings Center, 413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, (575) 758-2275, kachinalodge.com. Owner Pinder Gill, formerly of Birmingham, Alabama, said he has been out each day with his own hands tending to the landscaping, overseeing the ongoing renovation of the property and gathering the historical stories of this 1960s pueblo-style hotel. “The Kachina Lodge used to be the biggest employer in Taos,” Gill said, “hosting dance nights and conventions, and having guests such as Dennis Hopper and Peter Fonda walking its halls. It’s this pedigree that I want to preserve,” going so far, he said, as to get high-tech matches on the original paint colors used a half-century ago. “The mood of Taos is so far removed from that of the concrete jungle,” Gill continued, “so our mind is set to sustainable growth in both our landscaping and our business. 68

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Hotel Don Fernando de Taos We want native plants, Native art and Native food.” Inroads have already been made, he noted, with four massive murals he commissioned and the carving of three tree trunks by master woodcarvers. “We wanted to represent our three cultures, so we had the trunks carved into the shape of the pueblo, a bison and a family,” Gill said. Any discussion of lodging in Taos would be remiss without a mention of the 45-room Historic Taos Inn, 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, (575) 758-2233, taosinn.com, its Doc Martin’s restaurant and its Adobe Bar. Long dubbed “the living room of Taos,” this property is home to nightly live entertainment, award-winning margaritas and a resident ghost or two. Who needs more than that? Enjoy your visit, wherever your suitcase winds up. COVID-19 UPDATE Under COVID-19 guidelines, The Taos Inn is offering 20 rooms from full beds to suites. Discounts are available for New Mexico residents. If you’ve already booked a room, don’t cancel. Postpone your trip for another time.

Kachina Lodge Resort Hotel

COURTESY KACHINALODGE.COM

On the south-side Hotel Don Fernando de Taos, 1005 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, (575) 751-1444, hilton.com/en/hotels/tsmtmuphotel-don-fernando-de-taos recently underwent an extensive rejuvenation. Though a member of the Tapestry Collection of Hilton, which is known for “hidden local gems in unique neighborhoods,” Joshua Herrera, Don Fernando director of sales, noted the hotel is privately and locally owned and is an “authentic immersion into the culture of Taos and all that we know Taos to be.”


“Best Burger in New Mexico”

“Best Burger & Best Happy Hour”

USA TODAY

TAOS NEWS

Hormone & Antibiotic-Free NM Craft Beers

“Cheese Burger Paradise”

Dog-Friendly Patio GOURMET BURGERS ENTREES - SANDWICHES - SALADS

HAPPY HOUR 4 - 6 pm DAILY 758-8484 / 5Starburgers.com 1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

69


COMIDA Y BEBIDA

An epicurian adventure

by VIRGINIA L CLARK

Dining in El Prado and Arroyo Seco

S

inful mimosas, fresh-baked and grilled breads, chile, hot wings, shrimp, enchiladas, pasta, hot dogs, Asian, Italian and much more, Taos has it all.

Heading northeast from the so-called “old blinking light” intersection of three highways – U.S. Highway 64 and state roads 150 and 522 – just 15 to 20 minutes north of the town of Taos, an epicurean adventure awaits.

C O U RT ES Y M E D L E Y

Pizaños pizza

TAO S N E W S F I L E P H OTO

A few blocks up the road from Pizaños is “medley.”, named after chef/owners Colleen and Wilks Medley. The name also reflects their philosophy of offering a medley of American and international fare, “something good for everyone, modern spins on nostalgic classics, craft cocktails and innovative desserts.” There’s both formal fine dining and a casual bistro under the same roof. Most of us locals hit the bistro or one of two patios offering fab mountain views and lawn games to go along with happy hour libations and small plates.

Way more than a pizza shack, this is where you are treated like an amigo. This friendly neighborhood spot serves up Italian cuisine and New York-style pizza, pasta and delicious desserts, all bursting with the goodness of fresh and many locally sourced ingredients. Located at the foot of the Sangre de Cristos, the large dining room windows and even larger patio enhance the view of mountain and meadow. Appetizers are a big hit – some folks make a meal of the appetizers alone. Salads are a meal in themselves and can be customized with any pizza toppings. Their pizza is world class, but it's just one kind of great food on the menu. Garlic salt, cheese, peppers and other seasonings are right on the tables so you can customize each slice or dish as you prefer. Wines and a wide variety of beers chase the tastes with chilled gusto. They also serve an Italian American dish known as Utica Greens – hot peppers, sautéed greens, chicken stock or broth, escarole, cheese, pecorino, bread crumbs and variations of meat and prosciutto. This is a great family restaurant, too, providing kiddos with books, crayons and a fenced yard for running around – not to mention kids birthday parties. This place is busy so call ahead. In the preCOVID-19 era, it was jammed with both tourists and adoring locals, crowding about when the urge for Italian strikes. 70

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

medley. restaurant

Medley has a full-service bar and retail shop, boasting more than 500 wines, spirits and beers, all available to diners, as well as take-out. Lots of locals watch TV at the bar, chowing down on a burrata – prosciutto and loose-textured, small, soft cheese curds-and-cream in an outer shell of mozzarella; plus the peel-n-eat shrimp faves. Also try their pan-seared trout with horseradish mashed potatoes, or Sicilian seafood stew, with a great arugula and parm starter. Vegetarian, vegan and glutenfree options are available. One vegan entree is glazed roast veggies with tofu and quinoa. But most of us stick to ordering and sharing around the many small and interesting plates. It’s first-come first-served in the patios and bar, so come early for that ambiance. Reservations are taken for the more formal inside dining room.

Pizaños

medley.

23 State Road 150, El Prado

100 State Road 150, El Prado

(575) 776-1050

(575) 776-8787

taospizza.com

medleytaos.com


COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

the little store with the big heart

EVERYONE WELCOME Your local Cooperative

Food to Hit the Trail! Healthy Snacks!

Love People – Feed them Tasty Food! Chef Wilks Medley prepares vegetables as a base for his Salmon dish in his kitchen at medley.

Chefs Wilks and Colleen Medley. Taos News file photos

314 Paseo del Pueblo Norte Taos, NM 575-758-3840 www.taosfoodcoop.com www.facebook.com/taosfoodcoop 10:00 to 6:00 Mon - Sat Just south of the Taos Post Office

Epicurian adventure continues on page 72 D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

71


an epicurian adventure COMIDA Y BEBIDA 71

Sabroso restaurant Tucked away across the Seco creek, Sabroso is on the last driveway going north, just before entering the village of Arroyo Seco proper. This is a local’s favorite for decades, long before any other restaurants even existed along State Road 150. Most folks gather in the outdoor patio portál and outdoor bar on warm days. On chilly monsoonal evenings, we congregate inside with the cozy bar and fireplace.

Just great fine food here, folks. Try the duck wings and the bison, green chile and gorgonzola sliders, or the grilled salmon with chile-tinged asparagus. They sometimes offer a heavenly chicken pot pie. A full service wine, beer and spirits bar, the hand-squeezed fresh lime margaritas are some of the best in the Southwest.

This is the place to spend time with friends. It’s elegant but easy-going with a down-home ambiance. In colder weather, indoor music includes piano solos, so the inside bar is your go-to for tapas and cocktails. Arrive early to take advantage of happy hour and the great music.

Sabroso 470 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco (575) 776-3333 sabrosotaos.com

Sabroso books top-notch local musicians who play well and entertain the crowd without stifling diners’ conversations.

C O U RT ES Y S A B R O S O

ACEQ restaurant ACEQ 480 State Road 150 Arroyo Seco (575) 776-0900 aceqrestaurant.com

C O U RT ES Y AC E Q

Smack in the middle of Arroyo Seco is ACEQ, so-named by founders Noah Pettus and Brittany Garner to honor traditional acequia agriculture and their commitment to serving locally sourced foodstuffs. ACEQ is tucked within the first cluster of shops as you enter the village coming from Taos, opposite the Snow Mansion at the mouth of the village. Local bon-vivant Michael Wagener purchased ACEQ in 2015. The Wisconsin

72

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

native relocated to Taos for its deep snow and outdoor adventure. Wagener’s menu spans the spectrum from beer battered cheese curds (a clear nod to his Wisconsin heritage) to chicken and waffles, fresh poke bowls to a daily homemade pasta. The menu is short but the daily specials change often. If available, try the lobster and shrimp on pasta with rich and buttery alfredo. The lobster is typically of medium size, red and perfectly prepped to eat. Sea

bass and pasta carbonara both burst with flavor. Mains often come with roasted artichokes, asparagus and pureed potato. Located amid a small roundabout boardwalk, outdoor picnic tables also offer great ambiance. Couple the food and atmosphere with an excellent wine selection and you may have your new must-do diner in the north valley of Taos.

Epicurian adventure continues on page 76

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.


classic, reimagined. pastry chef, colleen medley’s deconstructed tiramisu.

“Hidden Gem”

review

Locally Sourced Meats • Fresh Squeezed Margs Incredible Ambience Open Wednesday – Monday

join us in our dining room, bar or outdoor patios for beautiful mountain views. happy hour, dinner, dessert, menus & more at medleytaos.com

ski valley rd., mile marker 1 ·

(575) 776 - 8787

taosmenus.com

575.776.3333 Located on Ski Valley Road, 470 State Highway 150 in Arroyo Seco sabrosotaos.com

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

73


“Top ten ice cream shops in the country.” -

COME ENJOY BEAUTIFUL SCENERY & TAOS COW ALL NATURAL, rBGH FREE SUPER PREMIUM ICE CREAM KIDS MENU & TAKE OUT AVAILABLE OFFERING: TAOS ROASTERS’ LOCALLY ROASTED ORGANIC FAIR TRADE COFFEE FULL ESPRESSO BAR • FRESHLY-MADE PASTRIES & CAKES • VEGAN/VEGETARIAN OPTIONS BAGELS, BAGEL SANDWICHES, BURRITOS

776-5640

Open 7 Days A Week | 7:30am - 5:30pm LOCATED IN DOWNTOWN ARROYO SECO • TAOSCOW.COM

FIRST PLACE

74

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

75


an epicurian adventure COMIDA Y BEBIDA 72

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

C O U RT ES Y S O L F O O D M A R K E T A N D CA F É

Sol Food Market and Café This is an organic café and market bordering ACEQ’s back walk, offering lots of gluten-free options, salads, paninis, juices, smoothies and coffee. They pledge to use natural, organic and local ingredients

whenever they can. Though the market with outdoor patio dining has been open for over a decade, the café just opened April 2019, when Weaving Southwest moved out of the space. At press time, both café and market open at 8 a.m., but the café closes at 3 p.m. and the market at 8 p.m. One super star has been the Taj Mahal curry sandwich with pulled pork and papas (potatoes) con chile. The menu has a specialized selection of interesting salads and sandwiches. The Taj Mahal salad (curried chicken salad over baby greens,

sprouts, tomatoes, cucumber and figs) is yummy. Do check out their awesome pesto and artisan cheeses. That, plus all the local meats and veggies tell you that Anna and Chris Woodall have an eye for sourcing high-quality items, creating a mecca of wholesome foods and locally made consumables. Typically served with a bed of greens slathered in delicious dressing, their sandwiches stand out. Definitely a must-include stop in the tiny village of Arroyo Seco.

Sol Food Market and Café 591 Hondo-Seco Road, Arroyo Seco (575) 776-5765 solfoodnm.com

NOW OPEN FOR CARRY-OUT & PHONE OR CURBSIDE ORDERING! INTRODUCING ZIGGY’S HEALTHY SHAKES: GET YOUR

FAVORITE kale drink TO-GO! HAVE YOU TRIED ONE OF OUR FROYO SAMMIES? 2 COOKIES, FROYO IN BETWEEN, ROLLED IN ONE OF OUR AWESOME TOPPINGS.

gysfroyo.com | OPEN LATE zig | r Su lo eb Pu l de o se 1008-A Pa BRING THIS COUPON FOR 20% OFF YOUR ORDER

76

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Every purchase at Ziggy’s supports youth in our community at


Serving Domestic & Import Beers Wine • Margaritas

SUMMER HOURS: Sunday - Thursday 10:30 am - 9 pm Friday - Saturday 10:30 am - 9:30 pm Patio Seating Available

NORTH SIDE 822 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte Taos 737-0816 SOUTH SIDE 1384 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur (across from Ace Hardware) 751-0063 guadalajaragrilltaos.com

VOTED: BEST BREAKFAST

BEST BAKERY

Restaurant & Bakery ALL YOUR FAVORITE SPANISH & AMERICAN DISHES WEEKLY LUNCH SPECIALS BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY TO GO OR DINE IN

BEST GREEN CHILE

Full Bakery! Cinnamon Rolls, Donuts, Fritters, Cream Puffs, Eclairs, Sopapillias & Much More!

Open 7 Days a Week! Monday - Sunday · 7AM to 2PM

304 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos ⋅ 3 Blocks north of the Plaza ⋅ (575) 758-4178 michaelskitchen.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

77


COMIDA Y BEBIDA

Red or green?

by LUCY HERRMAN

Big sellers at Taos Diner are the giant breakfast burritos smothered in red or green chile or both (aka Christmas). Morgan Timms/Taos News

Sometimes you just need both

N

ew Mexico is called the Land of Enchantment for many reasons. We are blessed with splendid scenery, lavish vistas and endless blue sky. History, culture, art, mountains, rivers and an active outdoor lifestyle attract us to this astonishing place. But for me, New Mexico is also about its delicious, distinctive and enchanting food. Do not mistake our spicy plates of enchiladas, burritos, tacos and quesadillas for Mexican food! While the names of the dishes may be the same, people here are quick to distinguish local Northern New Mexican cuisine from the dishes that originate south of the border.

78

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

And the most important ingredient in the state is inarguably the chile. In late summer, customers wait in line at grocery stores and open parking lots to have green chiles roasted by the bushels. The air is pungent with the heavenly smell as the chiles are turned over open flames in roaster cages. And in the fall, beautiful strings of dried red chiles, called ristras, hang from portáls and latillas, decorating homes while they are stored for future culinary use. Both chile versions are then transformed into extraordinary piquant sauces. These sauces are the showcases of New Mexico’s cuisine.

In fact, the official New Mexico state question is: “Red or green?” Good chile sauce prepared well is what completes an already marvelous dish. I often cannot decide between red or green. So I overcome that dilemma by asking for both when I order my enchiladas, burritos or Frito pie at a restaurant. We call that “Christmas.” In this case, there is nothing wrong with “Christmas” all year-round! Visitors to one of our many authentic Northern New Mexico restaurants will find that most are family-run. They use secret family recipes that uphold traditional preparations of dishes that are wholly unique to that location. In fact, the question “Who has the best chile in Taos?” is part of one of the most anticipated contests in town — part of the Taos News’ annual “Best of Taos Awards.”

Unfortunately, as I write this, COVID-19 has swept the country. Every community has taken precautions to prevent its spread, and ours is no different. New Mexico has issued guidelines for social distancing, public gatherings and new rules for restaurants. Many restaurants switched temporarily to carry-out only, but as this publication was set to go to print, the state was easing restrictions and some restaurants were back to offering sit-down service. So what do you do to get your chile fix? My recommendation is to prepare it yourself. 82


Great Tasting Beer in a Remarkable Setting

Growlers & Cans to Go | Open: Wed - Sun 12pm - 8pm

COMANCHE CREEK BREWING COMPANY Eagle Nest, NM | 575-377-BEER comanchecreekbrewingco.com

Because we know you want to live here.

Over 500 properties can be found at: enchantedhomeseller.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

79


Margaritas, a sweet pink prickly pear with lime wedge. and a tart grapefruit marg with jalapeĂąo and grapefruit twists, both at the Gorge Bar & Grill on Taos Plaza. Morgan Timms/Taos News

COCKTAIL CRUISE

80

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Signature must-do drinks around Historic Taos Plaza by VIRGINIA L CLARK Once the lockdown of restaurants and bars is lifted, there’s a whole lotta catching up to do. For those not in the know, Taos has a pretty gigantor reputation for the signature drink – starting 300 years ago with the Taos Lightning whiskey that gained nationwide notoriety back in the day. But now there’s a must-do loop of craft cocktail spots around the Historic Taos Plaza that locals love. Check out how Taos cocktail designers take specialty cocktail creations to the next level. Happy hours for each spot is between 3 and 6 p.m., a good place to start is

The Gorge Bar & Grill, Historic Taos Plaza, 103 East Plaza (575) 758-8866, thegorgebarandgrill.com, or sister wine bar tucked in a corner downstairs, Parcht Bottleshop + Bites, (575) 758-1994, find on Facebook. Happy hour is 3 to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, so mosey over for a freshly squeezed margarita at the bar or one of their great craft beers, world wines and tequilas – they cater to any request. At Parcht, check out the Spanish Tempranillo wine or a Sicilian wine to go along with one of their rich, small charcuterie boards – salmon mousse, Gouda cheese, duck rillette and salami. If you want an earlier start on the day, hit up Donabe Asian Kitchen, 133 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (575) 751-9700, donabetaos. com, next to The Historic Taos Inn. The place offers classic Asian food from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and bar manager Kyle Lavarnway says its drink specialties are all saké-, wine- and beer-based. The most popular and “manliest” drink on the menu, he said wryly, is the Madame Butterfly, using nigori-style sayuri, or unfiltered saké, blue peaflower tea syrup, lime and mint. The second most popular is the Kyoto Cooler, a super simple quaff of lychee saké with a squeezed half of grapefruit. Another winner is saké with cubed cucumber, lemon and ginger mint. They’ll also do special cocktails beyond what’s on the menu. Just ask! Happy hour is 3-5 p.m. daily. Come 4 p.m. head over to The Lounge by Rolling Still Distillery, 110 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Ste. D, (575) 613-0326, rollingstill.com, with happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. on the weekdays, literally just around the corner from Taos Plaza. Indoor or out, in fine weather the big patio offers great views of the main drag. Locals (and more and more visitors) come for the heavenly custom whiskey and vodkas, like their classic red

The Lounge's "Root and Revel" contains Tumbleroot Plata Agave, serrano, habanero, poblano and pasilla de Oaxaca peppers, lime and a salted rim. Pictured below is Lavender Lemonade — Rolling Still Lavender-Infused Vodka with house-made citrus, fresh lemon juice and Topo Chico sparkling. Morgan Timms/Taos News

and green chile vodkas (or “Christmas” chile vodka using both red and green), all distilled using local products – Hatch green chile, Chimayo red chile, and Las Cruces pecans for their pecan vodka, to name just a few. Yumm. Across the street from The Lounge is Adobe Bar at The Taos Inn, 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, (575) 758-2233, taosinn. com/adobe-bar, the so-called, “living room of Taos” which lots of folks just call home. Happy hour is 4 to 6 p.m., but most folks get there by 4:05 p.m., because it’s often SRO inside due to the amazing margaritas (consistently voted Best Margaritas and Best Bar in the annual Best of Taos competition) and free nightly music. But the street-side seating is highly entertaining as well. Order a flight of tequila some time, but be sure to try a Cowboy Buddha marg – uhmazing! Speaking of tequila, tear yourself away from the Adobe Bar and finish the specialty cocktail loop at The Alley Cantina, 121 Teresina Lane, northwest corner Taos Plaza, (575) 758-2121, alleycantina.com, (also features live music, pool, shuffleboard and arcade games). Happy hour is 5 to 7 p.m. daily and that’s when the specialty cocktails list gets crankin’ and they’re all half-price. Tequila Crisp is fabulous – a cucumber-infused Espolon Tequila Blanco, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, soda water and fresh lime that’ll whet any whistle. Fancy some Taos Lightning? Go for The Alley Speakeasy with Taos Lightning Rye, cognac, local absinthe, a splash of bitters, simple syrup and a twist of lemon.

The Alley Cantina has a great selection of margaritas that will quench your thirst. Each one has its own unique taste that makes it hard to choose a favorite. Taos News file photo

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

All in all, a local’s loop you can do any way, any day. Salut! D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

81


78

red or green?

If you would like to try your hand at red or green chile, I propose the following two recipes.

NEW MEXICO GREEN CHILE SAUCE

EL POTRERO TRADING POST BASIC RED CHILE SAUCE

They are both fantastic and pretty easy. Try the family recipe from the El Potrero Trading Post in Chimayo for red chile sauce. It is the first red sauce I ever made more than 25 years ago when I bought my first bag of dried chile powder directly from them. I still think it is one of the best. The second is my version of green chile sauce, which emphasizes and enhances the pure flavor of the chile. Whichever sauce you decide to make, I suggest starting with mild chiles or mild chile powder first, then varying the heat to taste on your next batch. As a natural product, the heat of chile may vary slightly from the label. Once the chile sauce is ready, layer or roll your favorite fillings — scrambled eggs, shredded pork, sautéed zucchini, cooked beans or anything you like — using corn or flour tortillas for unforgettable enchiladas or burritos. Spoon the sauce generously on top. Sprinkle with cheese and microwave or broil to melt, if desired. Garnish with lettuce, tomatoes, onions, cilantro, sour cream and chopped jalapeños – and serve! Go ahead and pack some ground red chile and a tub of frozen green chile in your luggage. Perfect souvenirs that will bring back memories of the taste of New Mexico. And make that “Christmas!”

Laurie Smith/Taos News

Laurie Smith/Taos News

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

¾ cup ground red chile powder

1-½ cups chopped onion

4 cups chicken stock or water

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

2 teaspoons cumin

2 tablespoons corn flour, such as yellow or blue corn masa

¼ cup flour

1 tablespoon New Mexican honey 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon ground cumin ¾ teaspoon salt, or to taste 3 cups chopped roasted mild to hot New Mexican green chile (could be from frozen)

½ teaspoon red wine vinegar 4 garlic cloves 2 tablespoons cooking oil 4 teaspoons oregano (optional) 1 potato, cubed and cooked (optional) Salt to taste

3-½ cups chicken stock or water Presoak chile in liquid for 20 minutes. Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the onion and garlic about 5 minutes. Add the flour or masa, honey, oregano, cumin and salt. Continue sautéing for about a minute. Add the chile and stir to combine. Slowly add the stock or water, stirring well.

Sauté garlic in oil. Add flour and brown by pressing flour flat in skillet. Add liquid, chile and remaining ingredients. Stir and simmer. The red wine vinegar is the secret ingredient our dad taught us — it makes the flavor come alive! This sauce can

Bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cook, covered, for about 15 minutes. Uncover and cook for about 15 minutes more until thickened. Makes about 6 cups. Freezes well.

be frozen and used later. Add mashed potato for additional thickness, if desired. Makes 4 cups. Freezes well.

EL POTRERO TRADING POST 17 Santuario Drive #A Chimayo, NM (505) 351-4112 potrerotradingpost.com

82

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

83


AVENTURA

Yoga like a local

by AMBER BURKE

Yoga in and around Taos

C

Many yoga studios are offering virtual classes. Visit their websites for details.

º

Aurafitness

aurafitnesstaos.com

º

High Frequency Loft highfrequencyloft.com

º

A paddleboard yoga class demonstrates Anjaneyasana, or Low Lunge pose, in an eddy on the Río Grande. T Alana Lee spots students during acro yoga class at the High Frequency Loft. T Linda Todd uses the pilates reformer during her scheduled hour at Taos Pilates and Yoga Studio.

Hot Yoga Taos

hotyogataos.com

º

Anice Joy demonstrates Eagle pose during a hot yoga class at her studio in Arroyo Seco.

High Altitude Health and Fitness

high-altitudehealth-fitness.business.site

º

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa

ojocaliente.ojospa.com

º

Sat Nam Yoga Center

satnamyogacenter.com

º

Stand tall in Mountain, squat into Horseman’s pose, lift your arms into Cactus. Sink into Gecko, alight into Crow. Lie down for poses whose names you don’t know, poses that remind you of fallen logs, lakes, skies. Stretch out for a siesta in Savasana. Hope you don’t have to move too soon … out of this pose or anywhere. Maybe you’re already beginning to compose letters to friends and family, telling them you’re here to stay, you are never going back, never leaving Taos. Why would you, if you’re a yogi? Taos is a yoga town, and practicing yoga here is another way of participating in the life of this place, of experiencing the effects of its altitude, its artistry, its come-as-you-are camaraderie. You could fit in a class after a morning hike, before a night of margaritas and music; you could turn an entire visit into an impromptu yoga retreat, lining up days of nearly back-to-back classes. The yoga community here is diverse. Teachers from a wide range of lineages have moved here from far-flung states, and students span generations and levels. Visitors often drop in for classes, adding to the mix, some of them trying yoga for the very first time in their lives, as if in Taos they can be different from how they are elsewhere – as if here, more things are possible, allowed, easy. While classes are varied, they often share a degree of mellowness. Cosmopolitan yogis used to fast-paced, acrobatic classes may find some of ours to be comparatively less intense. Perhaps this is a practical matter, grown from the expectation that there’s bound to be a motley crew in attendance, but I think there’s another reason, too. Life here, while not without its unique stresses, is not as relentless as life in big cities; we may have less agitation to dispel. Or the blaze of the afternoon sun may do some of the hard work for us, its hot impress lowering our guards, softening our shells, opening us back up.

Shree Yoga

shreeyogataos.com

º

TaoSatva

taosatva.com

º

Taos Pilates & Yoga Studio taospilates.net

º

Taos Spa and Tennis Club taosspa.com

º

Taos Yoga Therapy

taosyogatherapy.com

COVID-19 UPDATE Check online for current operating status regarding N.M. Health Department regulations for nonessential businesses.

ome, take off your shoes, take some deep breaths, sigh them out, move a little, wiggle.

TAO S N E W S F I L E P H OTO S

If yoga is in part the reawakening of our attention and our senses in Taos, it’s easy to practice outside of class, too: inhaling the smell of sage after the rain, gazing at the dropped curtain of sunlight folding itself into the creases of mountains or the glow of the moon landing on the stones and on the grass like frost, and, in the morning, before the oceanic afternoon winds kick up, listening to the mesa, each shrub home to invisible, loud birds, it seems like the earth is singing. Being here, breathing here, being present to the world around us here, becomes its own yoga.

Amber Burke often contributes to yogainternational.com. She coordinates Holistic Health and Healing Arts at UNM-Taos, where she also anchors the 200-hour yoga teacher training. Connect with her on Facebook at amberburkeyoga.

84

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Top 50 Tennis Resorts In the World

- tennisresortsonline.com

Tennis Courts and Lessons • Swimming Pool Walk-Ins Welcome • We Follow COVID-Safe Practices

We have it all...from the perfect snack to the perfect bed!

Blue Sky Pet & Feed Supply has the essentials to keep your pets healthy and happy!

214 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur Taos, NM 87571 | 575-758-1841 Mon-Fri 9am-5:30pm Sat 10am-4pm

88 STATE ROAD 150 Reservations 575 776 2585 QUAILRIDGETAOS.COM TAOSTENNIS.COM

Discover

in Your National Forest

CARSON NATIONAL FOREST FACEBOOK.COM/CARSONNF

@CARSONNF

PHOTOGRAPH BY GAK STONN

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

85


AVENTURA

Dipping a line

by RICK ROMANCITO

Fishing the rivers and creeks of Taos County

F

ishing is one of those sports that is just as satisfying when shared with friends and family as it is all by yourself.

Most fisherfolk even secretly hold the belief it’s almost as fun whether you catch anything or not — although some will never admit that. And, with catch-and-release becoming more prevalent these days, there is no longer the onus of feeling bad about killing a creature of the wild.

Taos County has an abundance of great fishing spots. From the rushing waters of the Río Grande cutting through the county as one of our latest national monuments, to lakes such as Cabresto and Stone near Questa, to lots of small streams splashing their ways down from the Sangre de Cristo Mountain highlands, there are plenty of ways to wet your line and give you the joy of a “fish-on.” What will you catch? Well, the most common fish in Taos County’s waters are varieties of trout. New Mexico Game and Fish often stocks rainbows, but you may also find cutthroats, brook, brown and lake trout. In addition, along the Río Grande you may be surprised to catch a northern pike or two. While not in Taos County, at nearby Eagle Nest Lake in the Moreno Valley, you’ll find

rainbow trout, brown trout, cutthroat trout, kokanee salmon, smallmouth bass, yellow perch, common carp, white sucker, channel catfish, sunfish and northern pike. Here, you can fish from the bank or by boat, and in winter there’s quite an ice fishing community that turns out. New Mexico now has a tier of regulations for its Special Trout Waters that have a connection to our favorite dish. These designations are Red Chile Water (catchand-release with tackle restrictions), Green Chile Water (two-trout daily bag limit with tackle restrictions), and Christmas Chile Water (two-trout daily bag limit with any legal tackle). In Taos County, you’ll find Red Chile Water at the Río Costilla, up near the Colorado border. Tackle restrictions include artificial flies or lures with a single barbless hook, and catch-and-release only. Red Chile Water also includes the Cimarrón River, east of Eagle Nest in Colfax County. Local Red Chile Water (Native Trout Conservation) includes Cabresto Creek, Canada Tio Grande, Frijoles Creek, Gavilan Creek, Italianos Creek, Leadro Creek, Río Santa Barbara, South Fork Río Hondo and Yerba Creek. In these waters, there is catchand-release only for Río Grande cutthroat

trout and Gila trout, but an unlimited bag limit for rainbow trout, brown trout and brook trout. Green Chile Water includes the Red River (from its confluence with Goose Creek 1.1 miles upstream to the Carson National Forest boundary), Shuree Ponds and the Río Grande from the Colorado state line to the Taos Junction Bridge north of Pilar. Tackle restrictions include artificial fly or lure with a single barbless hook. Christmas Chile Water includes the Red River from its confluence with the Río Grande upstream to the lower walking bridge at the Red River Fish Hatchery, and the Río Grande from the Colorado state line to the Taos Junction Bridge north of Pilar. For this designation, you can use any legal tackle and there is a bag limit of two trout daily. An abundance of information, including maps, descriptions, laws and regulations for licensing, can be found at the state’s Game and Fish website (wildlife.state. nm.us/fishing). If you need hands-on, experienced advice, check out taosflyshop. com or ask that kid with a pole walking down the stream bank. Whether you fish for fun or a delicious meal, Taos County has what you need.

Dipping a line continues on page 88 86

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

A local fisherman gets his last casts in at Eagle Rock Lake in Questa, just before dusk. Fishing is allowed daily, from dawn to dark. For more information, call the Village of Questa, (575) 586-0694. Morgan Timms/Taos News

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.


All Natural Respiratory Support 95% Pure Oxygen

Altitude

Health

Recovery

Per formance

#1 TRUSTED BRAND SINCE 2007 • PATENTED MASK DESIGN

BoostOxygen.com • #BoostOxygen | ThinkTank02.com • #ThinkTank02 D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

87


86

dipping a line

U.S. Marine Corps Veteran Ruben Roybal fishes for trout in Agua Piedra Creek in Sipapu. Through fly fishing and spending time outside in the mountains, he finds peace. ‘When you're out here there are no cars, no horns, it's peace and quiet ... all the different hues of light through these trees and the colors of meadows with flowers, I'm in heaven.’ T Rio Grande cutthroat trout acclimatize inside an oxygen-infused bag of water before volunteers release them into the Río Grande during Questa's Cutthroat Festival in Cerro in 2019. The native New Mexican cutthroat trout was designated the official state fish in 1955. Morgan Timms/Taos News

88

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

89


AVENTURA

Four-season Rocky Mountain high Locals

by LAUREN SEALE

head to the hills for cool summer

CAMPING - Visiting Taos via RV? With a free first-come, first-served RV parking lot at Taos Ski Valley, you can enjoy staying directly at the base of the mountain for a glorious price tag of $0 dollars. Prefer something a little more rustic? Twining Campground in Taos Ski Valley offers plenty of space for tents or trailers. For a little lower altitude, Carson National Forest offers several campgrounds right below Taos Ski Valley. For the most recently opened camping spots, see fs.usda.gov/ recmain/carson/recreation. FISHING - Dozens of rivers, streams and lakes within an hour of Taos Ski Valley provide hot spots for you to create your New Mexican fish tale. Hire a guide or venture out on your own to find the spot that’s right for you. CLIMBING - In Taos Ski Valley there are rocks aplenty to explore. Whether you hope to go climbing or bouldering, there are several routes for veterans and newbies alike.

W

ith Taos Ski Valley shifting its winter resort into a four-season destination, now more than ever there is an abundance of activities for the entire family year-round – except for this year, 2020 (and maybe some of 2021), due to the coronavirus pandemic. There’s still plenty to keep us all busy in the outdoors and eating establishments. What’s new With Northern New Mexico’s diverse climate, Taos Ski Valley is the perfect spot for year-round activities. Jake Wilkes, of Taos Ski Valley Inc., offers insight to the newest developments shifting the mountain from a snow-day location to a year-round destination.

“I believe existing tourism guests traveling to the town of Taos will have more reason than ever to visit the ski resort as part of their summer trip,” said Wilkes, noting new outdoor activities and programs complementing the existing summer events and outdoor recreation. Included are a lift-service mountain bike trail and a protected climbing route, also 90

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

known as the “Via Ferrata” or “Iron Road.” The lift-service mountain bike trail will consist of six new trails to explore. With the shortest trail being roughly a half-mile long, and the longest trail about 3 miles long, this is a great way for visitors to explore the mountains in a new and exciting way. According to skitaos.com, the “Via Ferrata” is “a protected climbing route consisting of metal rungs, ladders, cables and bridges. This system has been popular in Europe for decades because it allows novices to explore rock climbing in a safe and controlled environment. Climbers are continuously secured to cable throughout the course. This one- to two-hour course includes relatively easy, moderate and hard routes, and will be located in the upper bowl near Lift 4.” Tried and true Locals and visitors argee there is nothing better than summertime in the Rocky Mountains. With an abundance of sunshine, fresh air and tried-and-true activities to explore the mountainside, there’s no end to the enjoyment of field and streams in the high country of the Ski Valley.

HIKING AND TRAIL RUNNING - With trails such as Williams Lake Trail, Bull-ofthe-Woods and Wheeler Peak Trail, there are an array of mountainside trails that are ready and waiting to be traversed.

Hiking rocky outcrops above the verdent summer forest of Taos Ski Valley is a favorite pasttime of locals and visitors. T Fantasy fields of alpine wildflowers explode across the landscape during summer at Taos Ski Valley. Photos courtesy Taos Ski Valley

CHAIR LIFT RIDES - Take in the scenic views without gearing up in hiking boots and climbing gloves. Hop on a chair lift ride to the top of the mountain for stunning views of Kachina and Wheeler peaks. DISC GOLF - Enjoy a leisurely game of disc golf while soaking in beautiful views of Taos Ski Valley – free of charge. What’s happening and not happening At press time, Taos Ski Valley said some summer events might be scheduled after all, depending upon changes in coronavirus precautions. Call or check the website for the “Phased approach to opening” that the Village of Taos Ski Valley and TSV resort are allowing for events and businesses during this year of heightened security for locals and visitor safety. Be sure to check out skitaos.com and taosskivalley.com for the latest offerings and more information, or call (575) 776-2291.

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.


BECAUSE YOU DON’T EXPECT AVERAGE Local Leader-Globally Connected. Dream Big with Taos’ Leading Agency. ....Since 1987.

Joel K Schantz, Qualifying Broker

314A Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos / 575-758-1924 / 800-530-8899 BHHSTAOSREALESTATE.COM © 2020 BHH Affiliates, LLC. An independently owned and operated franchisee of BHH Affiliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol are registered service marks of HomeServices of America, Inc. ® Equal Housing Opportunity.


WHY TRAVEL TO SANTA FE OR ALBUQUERQUE WHEN YOU CAN RETAIN AN EXPERIENCED LOCAL ATTORNEY TO REPRESENT YOU IN YOUR CASE? • Over 45 years experience in handling all types of Personal Injury cases. • Over $100 million in recoveries for injured parties. • Licensed in New Mexico, New York, and admitted to federal court, US Bankruptcy Court, and the United States Supreme Court. • Free Consultations. 575-221-9999

115 La Posta Road, Suite C, Taos NM 87571 92

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Boyd L. Earl - Managing Attorney, 7DRV 2IÏFH


Left to right:

Ellen Lerner, Sally Torres, Katheryn Pate, Kelly Haukebo, center: Paula Madappa, Qualifying Broker

Allow us to show you all that the Taos area has to offer. Our experienced team of Realtors® are here to assist you whether you are buying or selling your home or land. You can count on us... we are dedicated to making your dream a reality! With offices in Taos and in Angel Fire. we bring you the Best in Real Estate throughout the Enchanted Circle and beyond. Download the App Here!

See all TAOS and ANGEL FIRE listings www.HighMountainProperty.com or download our New Mexico Mountain Properties App

575-758-5852 • 575-377-2626 • 888-687-5253 D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

93


SHARING THE TRAILS

Welcome to Taos – where there is a trail for everyone.

by CINDY BROWN

W

hether you are walking, running, biking, riding a horse or trekking with llamas there are spectacular trails here in Taos that range from easy to very challenging.

Start out slow and low – Taos is located at almost 7,000 feet and many of the trails start higher. However, the hikes near the rivers and mesas surrounding Taos usually range between 6,000 and 7,000 feet.

When you get out on one of these trails, you’ll have the chance to see wildlife and flowers and experience the true joy of recreating at high altitude.

If it is cool or early in the day, walk along the rim of the gorge starting from the Río Grande Gorge Bridge Rest Area. Or, close to town in Taos Canyon, look for the Devisadero Trailhead sign. It starts at a relatively low elevation and climbs up through the desert landscape. South of town, there are many trails accessed from State Road 518 near Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort, including Comales Canyon and Agua Piedra.

Our local public lands include the Carson National Forest, with all trails open to hikers and runners and most open to horseback riders. Mountain bikers are welcome everywhere except designated wilderness areas and some trails are open to motorized users, too. The Bureau of Land Management has trails in the mesa and river areas west of town that are open to all users. I’ve been the hiking columnist for the Taos News for many years and wrote the “Taos Hiking Guide,” so I’ve had the opportunity to explore the mountains and mesas around Taos. Here are a couple of recommendations for those new to hiking in Taos.

As you warm up and you get used to the elevation, head up towards the Taos Ski Valley. There are several beautiful trails along the Ski Valley Road (State Road 150) including Yerba, Manzanita, Italianos and Gavilan (signs mark the trail entrances all along the highway). From the Taos Ski Valley base area, look for the Bull-ofthe-Woods sign – a steeper but beautiful trail that follows a fork of the Río Hondo and goes 2 miles up to Bull-of-the-Woods Meadow and beyond.

Sharing the trails

At these higher elevations, the cool, green and often wet forest is bursting with wildflowers near the rivers and streams. Up higher, still, Williams Lake is a popular and beautiful trail but it starts above 10,000 feet elevation, so don’t try it your first day in town. In the summer you may see the huge, native blue columbine flowers near rock outcroppings and in wet areas. For more expert hikers, look for Bighorn sheep

94

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

as you continue up beyond the lake into the rocky areas above tree line on the way to Wheeler Peak, the tallest mountain in the state – at 13,161 feet. Taos News asked local experts for their recommendations on popular local trails for biking, running and horseback riding and for tips for all users to exist harmoniously on the trails. MOUNTAIN BIKING Carl Colonius of the Enchanted Circle Trails Association, whose mission is to develop, maintain and promote a regional trail system for all users says: by CINDY BROWN “The Talpa Traverse, located in Taos Canyon, is probably the most popular trail in town. It has long been an informal trail in the Carson National Forest and there is a discussion going on to consider making it a more official trail. It has great access and low technicality for mountain bikers and is close to town.

Sharing the trails continues on page 95

On horseback is a great way to experience the beauty of Taos. Taos Ski Valley

T Doug Pickett with the Taos Cycle Team pauses to take a look back while on the Rift Valley Trail. T Bob d'Antonio on the Devisadero Loop Trail #108. Taos News file photos


Rules for getting along on the trails T

Communicate with other trail users to prevent confusion.

T Allow horses to have the right of way. Step off the trail and greet horses and riders so you don’t startle them as they pass. Also give the right of way to those trekking with llamas.

T Mountain bikers should dismount and give the right of way to horses and also hikers.

T Don’t assume that your dog will be calm and well-behaved near horses and other users. It is best to keep your dog leashed and off the trail when horses pass.

TAO S N E W S F I L E P H OTO

Johnny MacArthur, horseback, talks to two mountain bikers who pull off the trail to allow the. horse easy passage. Courtesy photo Pam MacArthur D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

95


sharing the trails AVENTURA 95

“South Boundary Trail, 22 miles long, has lots of activity at both trail ends and at Garcia Park for hikers, runners and mountain bikers. Because of the long distance, you’ll mostly find only mountain bikers and sometimes horseback riders in the middle. “Other top picks to consider – Horsethief Mesa and Vista de Questa – both north of town.” HORSEBACK RIDING Pam MacArthur, a member of the Taos Saddle Club, a local equestrian group that has been around for 30 years, says: “We enjoy riding the Talpa Foothills Trail (aka the Talpa Traverse) as it is just a short distance from our neighborhood. There are about 30 households in the area that keep horses and enjoy the use of this trail. It is great riding in the spring while waiting for the snow to melt in the high country. “Other favorites are Amole Canyon slightly farther out of town on State Road 518 for the summer and fall months after the snow has melted. It has a network of trails with many open meadows and is not too steep. “Other top picks: Santa Barbara on the north end of the Pecos Wilderness; Gold Hill and Bull-of-the-Woods near Taos Ski Valley; Rift Trail south of town and Horsethief Mesa trails north of town.”

Annamiles Coxe and her llama Denali with Wild Earth Llama Adventures. Cindy Brown

RUNNING Bruce Katlin is a trail-running, landscape painter who runs and paints, often at the same time. Katlin says: “One of my favorite trails for running is the Yerba Trail along the Taos Ski Valley Road (State Road 150). It is the first of four trails along the Ski Valley Road and closest to town. There are six trees at the start of the trail that I affectionately refer to as the Trees of Knowledge. They talk and every year I ask them their snowfall predictions and they have been accurate for the past six years. “The trail crisscrosses a running stream and is abundant with wildflowers, grouse, colorful birds and various tree species. For shorter, less-challenging training, I run two to three miles up, as the vertical around mile 4 becomes quite challenging. I do, however, love to run the trail to the saddle where the views are spectacular. From there I can continue on to Lobo Peak and beyond.”

T Resources For directions to these trails and more information, consult these websites:

MTB project mtbproject.com

Enchanted Circle Trails Association

Wild Earth Llama Adventures

Hiking project

enchantedcircle trails.org

llama adventures.com

hikingproject.com

Carson National Forest fs.usda.gov/carson

Bureau of Land Management

Taos Mountain Bike Association taosmtb.org

Taos.org

taos.org

blm.gov

Courtesy Amanda Wheelock

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

96

|

A hiker crossing the Río Vallecitos, one of the many rivers and streams in Taos. New Mexico.

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

97


AVENTURA

Take a hike – or a bike

staff report

TAO S N E W S F I L E P H OTO

This is your land Bridge.You can go as long as you like on the path. The entire trail is 9 miles each way. Mountain bikes are allowed here, as well. The trail comes close to the gorge at times and then veers farther away. The area is covered with black lava rocks — remnants of its volcanic past. From Taos Plaza, go north on Paseo del Pueblo Norte 4 miles. Turn left (west) at the signal at the intersection with U.S. Highway 64 and continue for 7 miles. Cross the Gorge Bridge and turn left (or south) into the rest stop immediately west of the bridge.

T

he Bureau of Land Management (BLM) oversees thousands of acres of public land across Northern New Mexico. Ranging from the Río Chama Wild and Scenic River southwest of Taos to the Sabinoso Wilderness Area east of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains along the Canadian River, and from the bottom of the Río Grande Gorge to the tip top of Ute Mountain (10,093 feet) on the Colorado border, the BLM Taos office has a lot of ground to cover. The West Rim Trail is an easy, flat hike that follows the Río Grande from the Gorge

98

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

The BLM usually offers guided hikes in the Río Grande del Norte National Monument every fall but call the Taos BLM Office to be sure. The goal is to familiarize the public with all the magnificent treasures that make up the monument. Likewise, check first to be sure the fall guided hikes in October will be held. These popular day hikes offer deeper insights into all aspects of the national monument from geology, wildlife, archaeology, birding, botany and more. Most hikes are on the weekends, but some hikes and events are scheduled during the week. Visit the monument website (blm.gov/ nm/riograndedelnorte) for the time, date and description of what's on the schedule that week. You can also call the Río Grande

Gorge Visitor Center at (575) 751-4899, the Wild Rivers Visitor Center at (575) 586-1150 or the Taos BLM office at (575) 758-8851 to find out what’s on tap. Carson National Forest The BLM isn't the only federal agency with holdings in Northern New Mexico. The 1.5-million-acre Carson National Forest is operated by the National Forest Service and also offers an amazing amount of hiking opportunities, such as the popular Devisadero Loop Trail 108, Columbine Canyon Trail #71, Italianos Canyon Trail #59 and Wheeler Peak. For a descriptive list of all the day-hiking trails, visit fs.usda.gov/ recarea/carson/recreation. Wheeler Peak: The top of New Mexico The Taos Ski Valley area is home to the tallest mountain in New Mexico at 13,161 feet. To get there requires a long, steep hike, gaining almost 3,000 feet over 5 miles. It is challenging but the breathtaking views at the top and feeling of accomplishment are worth the effort. The best time of year to summit Wheeler is late summer or early fall; this is the narrow window after the snow is mostly melted and before the next season of snow comes, so plan ahead.


We Make It Easy to

TAKE IT EASY!

There are two ways to get to the top: from Bull-of-the-Woods Trailhead (located off the top parking lot of TSV resort) or the Williams Lake side. For the Williams Lake approach, plan on about 4 hours for the ascent. Local hiking club members recommend you start early and get off the peak by 1 p.m. to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. The first 2 miles of trail pass through spruce and fir trees. A gradual climb brings you through a boulder field to Williams Lake. The trail to the peak begins just before reaching the lake.

Dogs are welcome on hikers' and joggers' favorite trail that ends up at Williams Lake, just keep them leashed — at least until you get there for a little fetch fun. Linda Thompson

From Taos Plaza, go north on Paseo del Pueblo Norte 4 miles. Turn right (east) onto Ski Valley Road (State Road 150). Continue through Arroyo Seco up to Taos Ski Valley; stay left at the first main parking lot and drive into the upper parking lots. Go up Twining Road and follow the dirt road for 2 miles; several switchbacks bring you to the parking lot at Deer Lane. Walk down the hill, past the Bavarian Restaurant and then uphill. Watch for the trail signs.

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

wolfgangspas.com OPEN MONDAY – SATURDAY 10AM – 6PM • 758-1857 • 1210J SALAZAR ROAD

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

99


AVENTURA

Kiddo-friendly fun spots Camps, bowling, fishing

staff report

The Cimarrón River is great for fly fishing and throwing a line in from the bank. T Gutters bowling alley is a great place to hang with the kids. Taos News file photos

COVID-19 UPDATE

At press time many events have been temporarily closed for Coronavirus Safety Practices (CSPs)), but the state may have reopened more events by the time you read this, so call the place or business you are interested in to see if they are now open.

1. Red River Fish Hatchery TEMPORARILY CLOSED

T

June 22-July 2 Outdoor Explore – fourth-seventh grades. No overnight camping trip this year.

T

July 6-16 Nature Adventure #2 – second-fourth grades, active, hands-on, outdoor adventures.

100

|

4. Movies on the Green TEMPORARILY CLOSED

Kit Carson Park videos typically have started at 6:30 p.m., New Mexico Health Department and weather permitting. Bring chairs, blankets and a picnic. Concessions may be available. For more information, visit taosgov.com.

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

7. Gutters TEMPORARILY CLOSED

Located east of the Taos Youth and Family Center, at 520 Plaza Cañón Drive, there are 12 fantastic lanes plus a full-service restaurant available. Monday-Saturday, noon to 10 p.m. and noon to 9 p.m. on Sunday. For more information, call (575) 758-2695 or visit taosbowling.com.

rte no lo eb

4

Rd

pa

s chito Ran

se

od

el

pu

Camino de la Pla cit a

3

red river fish field institute twirl music and m stroyteller ci taos youth a gutters

r

Located at 225 Camino del la Placita and off the northwest corner of Taos Plaza, Twirl is a nonprofit play space and toy store with an awesome outside play area. When allowed, Twirl hosts special summer camps, workshops and unique events throughout the year. For more information, call (575) 751-1402 or visit twirltaos.org.

TEMPORARILY CLOSED

su

TEMPORARILY CLOSED

6. Taos Youth and Family Center Located at 407 Paseo del Cañón East, when allowed, TYFC offers swimming, pool slide, rollerblading (MondaySaturday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m.) and an unsupervised outdoor skateboard park (daily, dawn to dusk). For more information, visit taosgov.com/152/ Youth-Family-Center or call (575) 758-4160.

2

64

lo

3. Twirl

522

eb

All overnights and out-of-town trips are canceled. Summer 2020 events are only open to local children who live and go to school in Taos. Group size is limited to five children per lead instructor. For more information, registration forms and equipment list, visit fitaos.org, email info@fitaos.org or call (575) 770-2391.

T Aug. 2-6 Nature Adventure Mini #2 – first-fourth grades, active, hands-on, outdoor adventures.

1

pu

2. Field Institute of Taos MODIFIED OPERATIONS

T July 27-30 Taos Mountain Bike Adventure – ages 9 and up, advanced only – XC skills and bike maintenance.

Storyteller Cinema 7 at 110 Old Talpa Cañón Road off Paseo del Pueblo Sur shows first-run titles on seven screens with concessions and an arcade. Tickets for children ages 3 to 11 are $5.75. Call the Movie Line at (575) 751-4245 or visit storyteller7.com.

el

You must supply your own fishing gear and obtain a fishing license (nonresident anglers 12 years and older). Licenses can be purchased in Taos at Big 5 Sporting Goods, Super Save Discount Foods, Taos Fly Shop and Walmart. Call (575) 586-0222.

T July 27-30 Outdoor Adventure – fourth-seventh grades, explore outdoors, involving teamwork, growth and fun. No overnight camping trip this year. Four days.

5. Storyteller Cinema 7 TEMPORARILY CLOSED

se od

When open, a self-guided tour of the hatchery’s inner workings are available 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. When allowed, hatchery fishing hours are 30 minutes before sunrise to sunset. The daily bag and possession limits are three trout.

T July 20-23 – ages 9 and up, intermediate and above riders only. XC riding skills and bike maintenance.

pa

The state-owned trout-stocked hatchery pond is only for children, seniors and the physically challenged. Take State Road 522 north toward Questa, turn west onto State Road 515, about 2 miles south of Questa. Follow the road for about 2 miles.

5 6

585

7

paseo del cañon east

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.


Investing in a Green Future for Taos and Northern New Mexico

Kit Carson Electric Cooperative has received a $200,119 grant from the New Mexico Environment Department to install a network of electric vehicle charging stations along the 84-mile route known as the Enchanted Circle highway. The route encompasses Taos, Questa, Red River, Eagle Nest and Angel Fire. Look for the charging stations coming to a corner near you!

kitcarson.com/electric D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

101


$10,000 IN GRANT FUNDING

“Times have been tough, but Taos has come together in extraordinary ways. Holy Cross Hospital has been a leader through the pandemic, but our efforts have been made much easier with help from our amazing community. Luis Reyes from Kit Carson Electric Cooperative was able to help Holy Cross Medical Center get access to $10,000 in grant funding to use towards personal protective equipment to protect our staff and hardware to help outfit our offices with tele-medicine equipment so that we can provide remote care for our patients. Thank you Luis and Kit Carson Electric Cooperative!” – Holy Cross Medical Center

We’re still here serving you. We are committed to offering our communities the reliable services needed to help get through today’s challenges.

Call 575 758 2258 kitcarson.com THIS INSTITUTION IS AN EQUAL OPPORTUNITY PROVIDER AND EMPLOYER

102

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


HERE FOR OUR COMMUNITIES

When the pandemic hit Taos and students were forced into virtual learning from home, Kit Carson Internet was there to help. We immediately set up over 22 Wi-Fi hotspots for students, seniors and low-income families as well as connecting over 140 students to internet in their homes. Providing critical infrastructure is our way to help our communities.

Call 575 758 2258 kitcarson.com THIS INSTITUTION IS AN EQUAL OPPORTUNITY PROVIDER AND EMPLOYER

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

103


AVENTURA

Taos houses

by LAUREN SEALE

Diverse design, similar sustainability

T

aos seems to thrive on breaking the norm. Its roots run deep in history, its culture is as distinct as its landscape. From adobe abodes dotting the mesa to chic chalets peppering the mountain side, one thing is for sure – this place isn’t average, and neither are its dwellings.

On the opposite end of the design spectrum, in the area that is anything but traditional is the ever-eclectic earthship. Originating in Taos in the 1970s, earthships offer off-the-grid living for those looking for a more sustainable lifestyle.

One may wonder why driving through the countryside you’re bound to see houses ranging from classic to contemporary to unconventional, all within the same vicinity. What gives? According to Leif Krosby, real estate agent with Engel & Völkers in Taos, the reason behind this is quite simple, “There's a variety of housing types in Taos, including adobe, wood frame, rastra, straw bale and earthships, due to few restrictions. There are also very few neighborhoods with strict guidelines and [homeowner associations]. But while the variety of styles may be vast, there is one thing that many homes in Taos share in common. “Many people are mindful of energy consumption and architecture, and we have a long tradition for the architecture that derives from that ambition,” says Alix Henry of Henry Architects. According to Henry, passive solar pueblo-style homes are one of the most popular styles in the area. Inspired by the Native architecture in the area, this style is highly insulated, a great fit when designing an energy-conscious build.

104

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Top: The Houx residence is a modern ode to the classic ski chalet composed of a symphony of glass, steel and concrete – effectively a passive solar greenhouse with warmth even in the dead of winter. T Below, one of several Lumina House outbuildings of Felicia Ferguson, boasts a natural paradise of fruit trees, lush gardens and waterfalls. Taos News file photos “Our remote location and exceptional solar capacity, along with broad temperatures throughout the year and on a daily basis, means that passive solar buildings are a popular approach to architecture,” says Henry. ”It is easier to make these buildings work when you have the amount of sun we do.”

Made of natural and recycled materials such as reclaimed wood, glass bottles, tires and cardboard, this “biotecture” – a concept coined by innovative Taos earthship founder/builder Michael Reynolds – offers one-of-a-kind living. Reminiscent of a Tim Burton movie, the unique and eco-friendly design of an earthship is the quintessential representation of the thoughtful quirkiness of Taos. And for those residents who prefer a home base somewhere in the middle of traditional and uncommon – Zero E Design is a local design company offering contemporary and sleek designs that can be customized to any personal aesthetic. With a focus on zero energy and carbon emissions, its modern designs greatly contrast the classic pueblo or eccentric earthship styles of their neighbors while maintaining the same common goal of sustainability. “Taos has a long tradition in environmentally friendly homes,” says Joaquin Karcher, founder of Zero E Design, “starting with the pueblo, to the solar adobe movement from the ’80s and ’90s, to earthships and beyond. It attracts people who hold the environment dear. There is a sense of place and belonging here that is very special and I think that is important to Taoseños.”

An elegant construction of The Greater World Earthship Community in Taos. Courtesy Earthship Biotecture


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

105


LA COMUNIDADES

Morgan Timms/Taos News OJO CALIENTE

107

TAOS PUEBLO

108

ARROYO SECO

110

TAOS SKI VALLEY

112

RED RIVER

114

ANGEL FIRE

118

QUESTA 124 EAGLE NEST

127

Long known as The Land of Enchantment, Northern New Mexico’s legendary villages may be the most enchanting of all.

Ojo Caliente is a small community in Taos County off U.S. Highway 285 near the Río Grande, between Española and Taos, about 50 miles north of Santa Fe, a local and visitor getaway spa finally reopened to the public.

These ancient communities stretch from Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs in northwest Taos County to The Enchanted Circle communities of Taos, Questa and Red River, Colfax County’s Eagle Nest and Angel Fire and villages in between, including the ghost towns of Elizabethtown and Virginia City.

Highly therapeutic Enchanted Circle drives take two or three hours, including a food or drink stop here or there. From Taos, you can begin by traveling north to Questa on State Road 522, then take State Road 38 to Red River, Eagle Nest and Angel Fire and then return to Taos through Taos Canyon on U.S. Highway 64 — or begin the circle going east, toward Angel Fire.

Explore the designated, scenic 83-mile Enchanted Circle highway loop through mountains, valleys, mesas and national forest — so uniquely Northern New Mexico — some of which runs along the Río Grande Gorge to the west, then encircling Wheeler Peak, the highest point in the state, at 13,159 feet.

106

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Culture, history and outdoor recreation are alive and abundant around the Northern New Mexico’s enchanting communities, so get out on the road and get ready to discover what makes this region so spectacular.


OJO CALIENTE A gathering place, healing mind, body and spirit naturally for centuries. Safe, serene and healing — Ojo Caliente lodging reopens at 50 percent capacity as COVID-19 lockdown eases.

Courtesy Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa (888) 939-0007 ojospa.com

The health and safety of guests and staff is top priority at Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs and Spa. Ojo reopened lodging reservations at 50 percent capacity June 12, 2020, in accord with New Mexico’s coronavirus safety practices. Select hot springs pools also opened to overnight guests on June 12. Originally prized by indigenous peoples nearly 3,000 years ago for its sacred waters, Ojo opened its doors in 1898, one of the oldest natural health resorts in the United States. Starting July 1, 2020, Ojo’s coronavirus-safe list of spa services includes massages, scrubs, wraps and energy-work therapies provided at 25 percent capacity. “Each day that goes by, we feel grateful and encouraged as state orders ease and guests show their great enthusiasm for returning to the tranquil environments we have readied for them,” said Ojo Spa Resorts Managing Partner Andy Joseph in a press release. The Posi, Cliffside Suites and the Adobe House and Casa de Ojo private homes are available. Also reopened are the Pueblo and Plaza suites and North Cottages. Breakfast, lunch and dinner feature farm-fresh greens and vegetables from the Ojo Farm, available in the Artesian Restaurant, which is open for dining-in at 50 percent occupancy as well as to-go. Ojo resort’s retail shop is scheduled to reopen July 1, or sooner, with social distancing. The resort is not yet reopened to RVs or campers. By adhering to state, federal, CDC and EPA guidelines for staged reopening with limited occupancy, the resort assures the safest and most comfortable social distancing precautions as possible — at the same time looking forward to increased health and healing as the days progress. As the resort’s recent email says, “The whole world is looking for a good soak!” For more information and updates, visit ojospa.com or call (888) 939-0007.

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

107


TAOS PUEBLO If Pueblo Peak is the heartbeat of Taos, then Taos Pueblo is its soul. by SCOTT GERDES

A world, a culture apart, no visitor should miss seeing the ancient pueblo — perhaps the world’s oldest apartment building. Here, life goes on much the same as it has for approximately 1,000 years. You may notice a shiny pickup truck parked nearby or see modern cell phones, but the customs and the unwritten Tiwa (pronounced TEE-wah) language have changed little over the centuries.

Kerri Martin, of Diné and Hopi heritage based in Montezuma Creek, Utah, participates in the intertribal dancing following the Grand Entry during the 2019 Taos Pueblo Powwow. Morgan Timms/Taos News

108

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


The history Splinter groups of prehistoric Puebloan people established a permanent settlement in Taos Valley around 1000 A.D. Those who settled in Pot Creek left the pueblo established there between 1320-1350. They are credited with building the multistoried structures that became Taos Pueblo. They were farmers and hunters, and their geographic location made the pueblo a crossroads and trading center for other Indian tribes. In 1540, the Spanish Conquistadors of the Coronado Expedition arrived at Taos Pueblo’s doorstep. They are said to be the first Europeans to see Taos Valley. They were looking for gold. Fiftyeight years later, Don Juan de Oñate colonized New Mexico for the Spanish empire. In the beginning, while hesitant, the Tiwa Indians opened their doors to the strangers hoping for harmonious living. But the influential Catholic clergy’s main motive was to convert the Tiwa to the Catholic religion and enslave them to build a chapel in the name of Saint Jerome. Because of forced baptism, Natives were given Spanish surnames. Skirmishes periodically broke out. Under the leadership of Po’pay, from San Juan Pueblo, the Spaniards — and the indigenous people they brought with them — were defeated during the 1680 Pueblo revolt and forced to retreat south. The Spanish “reconquest” was carried out by Don Diego de Vargas in 1696. The Spanish colonists then returned to the valley for good. Over time, the faiths that divided the two cultures became blended. This is seen in the prominence of the Blessed Virgin Mary within the church and in the religion-inspired artwork since the Tiwa closely associate her with Mother Earth.

Taos Pueblo is not just a home; it’s a way of life. The preserved, proud culture of the Red Willow people stands tall amid the large timbers and adobe bricks that make up the approximately 1,000-yearold multistory dwelling. Taos Pueblo culture inhales and exhales the warm smell of cedar wood and bread baking in hornos (outdoor adobe ovens). Its heart beats faster during the traditional dances and feast days — in the drum beats, ancient songs and handcrafted art. It lives in the faces of the more than

Rick Romancito/Taos News

2019 Taos Pueblo Governor Richard Aspenwind, center, is pictured this past winter with Tribal Secretary Harold Lefthand, left, and Lieutenant Governor Joe Romero, at right. Always voted the Most Interesting Place to Take Visitors, the Pueblo is a remarkable testament to the history, culture, art and daily living of the Red Willow people. PUEBLO RULES T The Red Willow River that gracefully flows from sacred Blue Lake (see the Blue Lake 50th anniversary story on page 50) — hidden from view in the mountains — to the Río Grande is the Pueblo’s main source of drinking water.

Therefore, please don’t walk in it. Blue Lake, the mountain areas and lands outside Pueblo walls are off-limits to visitors. T Photography, cell phone use and recording devices are not allowed out of respect and to prevent exploitation during Feast Days.

T All photos are for personal use only. Any other commercial, documentary, educational use or artist renderings must have prior approval (inquire with tourism office). T Because families still reside in the original structure, there are privacy issues. Only doors that are

1,900 Pueblo members. The land base of Taos Pueblo is 99,000 acres. It is a sovereign nation.

Native energy The power of Native nations is as strong as ever, an energy that is clearly evident at the annual Taos Pueblo Powwow, cancelled this year due to COVID-19 precautions, as is entry to the pueblo at press time.

Celebrations of faith Feast days are an integral part of the Pueblo culture. They were introduced by the Spanish colonization and represent the celebration of the Patron Saints of the Catholic religion. Feast Days also coincide with the traditional Pueblo spiritual beliefs, which allows the people of the Pueblo community to practice both the Catholic and Pueblo religions. A typical Feast Day is a day of eating, visiting with family, friends and enjoying

clearly marked as a business should be entered. The Pueblo has been a major place of trade for centuries, which is still evident by the various businesses. Most shops accept credit cards and all goods are tax free. T Out of respect, please ask permission

before taking a picture of a Taos Pueblo member. T Any areas and pathways that are off-limits to visitors are clearly marked. T Other rules state pets must be leashed, and climbing on ladders or buildings is strictly prohibited.

the traditional dances that are allowed to be witnessed by public spectators. Although feast days are open to the public, one must be invited into a home to visit and/or share a feast day meal. Please use common courtesy and do not walk into a home uninvited. Other common courtesies include: After a dance is over please do not applaud for these are not performances. Native dances are part of a ceremony and it is an honor to see them. And while watching the dances, please refrain from talking to community members regarding what is the significance of the dance and don’t speak with the dancers. Cameras and cell phones are not allowed during religious ceremonies; they could be confiscated and won’t be returned.

Please note that the Pueblo periodically closes to the public for tribal rituals. Call (575) 758-1028 before you plan to visit. D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

TAOS PUEBLO HAS BEEN CLOSED TO VISITORS DUE TO CORONAVIRUS PRECAUTIONS SINCE MARCH 11, 2020. For more information, check the website at taospueblo.com or call (575) 758-1028.

Debbie Lujan

HOURS: Mon.-Sat. 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; Sun. 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. (except for tribal ritual closures). ENTRANCE FEES: Call for current fees for adults, students (11 and older, includes college ID), groups of six or more, children 10 and under, free.

|

109


ARROYO SECO A good thing in a small package.

A river runs through Arroyo Seco – at elevation 7,634 feet. As legend would have it, Taos Valley is flanked by the Sangre de Cristo Mountains on the east, a desert guarded by the plumed serpent on the west and by the ruined houses of La Llorona on the south. You can always feel the sense of community and creativity brimming at the shops, boutiques, galleries and eateries lining the main street of Arroyo Seco, the picturesque village located on State Road 150, on the way to Taos Ski Valley. As coronavirus safety measures progress, the foothills may once again echo with the global sounds of Seco Live and Roots & Wings presenting Celebrate Seco, a spate of free summer shows in the heart of town outdoors. For updates on scheduled events, visit secolive.org.

Celebrate Seco 110

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Ryan Perry of Homemade Jamz Blues Band walks through a pre-pandemic crowd gathered at Scott Carlson's Pottery Gallery in Arroyo Seco during a free Seco Live concert in 2015. Currently oh hold due to COVID-19 precautions, hopes are high for a return of this annual event, sooner than later, but safety comes first. Katharine Egli/Taos News


RESTAURANTS

ARTIST STUDIO

Abe’s Cantina y Cocina

Sabroso

Taos Cow

This decadeslong, family-owned and -operated establishment is a local favorite serving up some of the best enchiladas, chicharrones, tamales and empanadas (especially the pumpkin!) in Northern New Mexico. The historic tavern currently is only open for to-go liquor sales. It’s a great place to hear some gossip, if you’re hankering for a little local liveliness.

Sabroso is American and global cuisine and has been offering to-go meals. Once inside and patio service is established, it typically provides a fully stoked bar and wine cellar. The hand-squeezed fresh lime margaritas are some of the best in the Southwest. Live music on the patio may still be an offering, as per COVID-19 safety measures allow. The patio and bar have frequently been referred to as “Seco’s living room.”

Heavenly, award-winning ice cream offering

Monday-Friday 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; 489 State Road 150; (575) 776-8516

ACEQ ACEQ is only doing takeout and delivery in a 15-mile radius, from the Taos golf course in Ranchos de Taos, north to Arroyo Hondo and northeast, up to Taos Ski Valley. No dine-in at press time, but as soon as safety is assured, they will once again offer the fare and atmosphere that consistently gets rave reviews, presenting comfort food that utilizes local, wild and farm-fresh ingredients. Check the online menu for to-go orders.

Sunday-Thursday 4-8 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 4:30-9 p.m.; 480 State Road 150; (575) 776-0900; aceqrestaurant.com

classic and unique rotating flavors such as Piñón Caramel and Chocolate Río Grande. But this quintessential food cart also has an espresso bar and serves bagel sandwiches, breakfast burritos and its famous egg sando. Outdoor riverside seating.

Daily 7 a.m.-6 p.m.; 485 State Road 150; Wednesday-Monday 4 p.m.-close; closed Tuesday; 470 State Road 150; (575) 776-3333; sabrosotaos.com

(575) 776-5640

The Wake & Take

The 1895 building houses antiques, American West vintage items, gifts, santos, Indian trade blankets and much more.

Life Foods, a vegan and plant-based food

Country-style natural foods market and café offering an informal, friendly atmosphere aiming to use natural organic and local ingredients whenever possible.

They offer to-go, tasty and affordable options

MARKET – daily 8:30 a.m.-7 p.m. CAFÉ – food to-go only, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. 591 Hondo Seco Road; (575) 776-5765; solfoodnm.com

Francesca’s Clothing Boutique

Francesca’s offers a large selection of

one-of-a-kind women’s clothing and

company located in the village of Arroyo Seco.

painter, Claire Haye’s sterling silver, bronze and gold pieces “speak universally to women of all ages and walks of life.” Her online store is active and effective for sales and new information.

Friday-Sunday, noon-5 p.m.; 482A State Road 150; (575) 776-5175; claireworks.com

LODGING

for anyone who wants to level up their health and the planet.

Casa Miguel, LLC

To-go daily: 9 a.m.-3 p.m., closed Wednesday; 480 State Rd 150, Suite A; (505) 990-0296; Instagram @TheWake andTake; shrublifefoods.com

and creators to present experiences in an intimate setting or, in other words, “using art to reform the social norm.” Check the

Offering authentic Northern New Mexican accommodations such as the adobe brick home Casa Miguel and Casa Kachina in Arroyo Seco’s distinct residential community Los Altos.

Francesca’s has topped the “Best Women’s Clothing Boutique” category in Taos News' “Best of Taos” survey for more than 10 years.

Daily 10:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; 498 State Road 150; (575) 776-8776; francescas.com

Logan Wannamaker Pottery

“Logan Wannamaker stands at a whirling

Saturday-Sunday, noon-5 p.m. or by appointment; 487 State Road 150; (312) 593-3948; parseseco.com

Fully furnished, wood fireplace, stocked kitchen, bath and linens. Hot tub on the upper deck and free Wi-Fi.

Rottenstone Pottery Rottenstone Pottery specializes in unique ceramic art made in the ancient tradition

585 Hondo-Seco

of wood-firing. Scott Rutherford’s wares

Road; (575) 776-2540;

combine an Eastern Wabi Sabi aesthetic

Find on Facebook

with the functional formal considerations of American folk craft pottery. His pieces are either fired in an electric oxidation kiln,

ball of black clay into a cup in seconds. That

a salt kiln or in an Anagama wood kiln.

easiest part of his creative process. Behind it are hours of digging, sieving, mixing, hammering, chopping and burning that finally culminate in a one-of-a-kind work of

Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 486 State Road 150; (575) 776-1042; Find on Facebook

Fine Art New Mexico

art that uses native materials to mirror the

Film industry writer, producer and director

dramatic Northern New Mexico landscape,”

Santos y Mas

Jack Leustig’s print studio is open for reduced

wrote J.R. Logan for Taos News.

Santos y Mas is where to go for the area’s

hours at this time. He produces prints for local

best selection of handcrafted Northern New

artists in small to large formats as a premier

Mexico folk art and colorful, whimsical gifts

publisher of Southwest art and photography.

Daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; 482A State Road 150; (575) 770-4334

and collectibles. You can’t help but smile.

Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; 482 State Road 150; (575) 776-3899; fineartnewmexico.com

Parse Seco

Daily 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m.; 484 State Road 150; (575) 776-2088; Find on Facebook

Parse Seco is an experimental creative space that provides a platform for artists, musicians

guelnm.com

Royal Bear Lodge

pottery wheel and effortlessly shapes a moment—throwing a pot—is probably the

987-8423; casami-

events calendar on Facebook.

accessories. Clothes are stylish and trendy

Claireworks Gallery Owner and award-winning sculptor and

By appointment: email thelittlejohnstudio@ gmail.com melindalittlejohn.com

State Road 150; (800)

with something for every body type.

Daily; 488 State Road 150; (575) 776-8806; Find on Facebook

Melinda Littlejohn began her fine art career as a minimal abstractionist, but was drawn to the style of 17th-century Spanish Bodegón still-life paintings.

The Wake & Take Café is home to Shrub

Sol Food Market and Café

MERCHANTS Arroyo Seco Mercantile

Melinda Littlejohn

The SnowMansion Sometimes referred to as a ski lodge with campsites, the concept of the SnowMansion is based on the hostel. For many years, the SnowMansion has been a popular, comfortable and cozy, budget-friendly place to stay.

476 State Road 150; (575) 776-8298; snowmansion.com

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

111


TAOS SKI VALLEY

It’s a little bit European, a little bit New Mexico. It’s a lot steep and beautiful. The vast, rugged terrain and generous, free-spirited community call out to mountain lovers with a passion for outdoor thrills and cultural diversity. Here hiking and bicycling are king once the snow has melted away.

112

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


A phased approach to reopening the terrain of the Taos Ski Valley is ongoing through July and August, according to Courtney Tucker, director of Taos Ski Valley Chamber of Commerce. “Both sides, the front and the back, of the resort will be open,” Tucker said in June – including mountain biking trails, the scenic chair lift ride on the back side and the Via Ferrata.

Kurt Schmidt 2016/Taos Ski Valley Chamber Hiking trails abound The Williams Lake Trail is a popular trek accessed from the ski resort’s parking lot. Starting at about 10,000 feet elevation, you gain about a 1,000 feet more in elevation in just under 2 miles. Englemann spruce stands dominate the beginning of the trail. As you get closer to the upper end, however, it opens up into meadowland and scattered rock fields. Another reward for reaching Williams Lake is the opportunity to continue on up to Wheeler Peak along the Wheeler Peak Trail, the highest point in New Mexico at 13,131 feet. Other trails include Long Canyon/ Bull-of-the-Woods at 3.6 miles; Gavilan at 2.4 miles; Italianos Canyon at 3.5 miles; Manzanita Canyon at 4.2 miles; and Yerba Canyon at 4 miles. For more details on the trails and maps, go online to skitaos.com.

NATIONAL FOREST NO BURN NOTICE The national forest campfire restriction in place to reduce human-caused wildfire during global pandemic prohibits: • Igniting • building • maintaining • attending • or using a fire, including charcoal grills and barbecues, coal and wood-burning stoves.

Courtesy Taos Ski Valley

For more information, visit fs.usda.gov/goto/ carson/ivm.

Taos Ski Valley Chamber of Commerce 10 Thunderbird Rd, Taos Ski Valley (800) 517-9816 taosskivalley.com Taos Ski Valley skitaos.com

Mountain biking magic The popular Northside Trail (ridenorthside.com) is now a free, self-guided, private mountain-biking area, purchased from the Pattison family early last summer by Robert Corroon. The only requirement is that users each sign a liability waiver, located at the trailhead kiosk set about 1/4 of a mile in from the front entrance. “I feel so lucky to be part of the TSV magic,” Corroon said by phone in May. “I used to live in Santa Fe so I fell in love with the ski valley a long time ago.” Set on 1,200 acres of private recreational development, Northside is a mapped and signed trail system designed especially for mountain biking, composed of a looped trail network with spectacular overlooks, single- and double-track routes through blue spruce and aspen stands and expansive meadows. The terrain is best suited for the intermediate- and higher-level rider. Singletracks.com selected Northside as one of the 20 most scenic mountain bike trails in the Western United States. For the even more adventurous, one can pedal to the top of Frazer Mountain, 12,163 feet, the highest point on the property at an average grade of less than 10 percent. Northside is open dawn to dusk from late June through October, weather permitting – keep in mind that the mornings and evenings are chilly. It’s wise to dress in layers. Taos Ski Valley brings ancestry to life. It has become an unexpected cultural center comprised of Native American, Spanish and Anglo tradition. It’s like nowhere else. D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

113


RED RIVER An exciting small town where days are cool and the living is easy.

Red River is one of the small towns on the Enchanted Circle with more than its fair share of entertainment options, great food and fun events. The coronavirus safety measures are in place here as in the rest of New Mexico (see information box), but towns are slowly and carefully retooling and opening up. Summer time in Red River is an especially exciting time where summer days are cool and the living is easy. Just walking the shop-lined streets can fill up a day. Be sure to check out some of these popular smile116 making summer activities.

114

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

From left: Charlotte McCarraher, 6, and her 9-year-old sister, Madeleine McCarraher, of Albuquerque, leap across hay bales during the annual Oktoberfest at Brandenburg Park in Red River. Morgan Timms/Taos News


THE CANDY CRATE KEEP TIME WITH TAOS ARTS

Thirty Years Of Fudge-Making History!

Northern New Mexico’s Largest Candy Store Gifts, Games, New Mexico Coffee and Foods, Ice Cream, Snacks and Beverages

www.CandyMountainFudge.com 300 West Main Street, Red River NM 866-97-FUDGE 575-754-2925

BOBCAT PASS WILDERNESS ADVENTURES We offer horseback rides and UTV tours daily along with the original and famous

Moreno Valley Cowboy Evening! Featuring Syd Masters ORIGINAL & FAMOUS RIBEYE DINNER ALONG WITH OUR MOUTH WATERING CINNAMON ROLLS

OUR 29TH SEASON RESERVATIONS REQUIRED

575-754-2769 1670 HWY. 38 AT BOBCAT PASS RED RIVER, NM 87558 • WWW.BOBCATPASS.COM

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

115


Red River Hidden Treasure Aerial Park Courtesy Red River Ski & Summer Area

114 RED RIVER

Scenic summer chairlift Summer Scenic Chairlift rides reopened in June and as of press time lift service runs daily. Strap your bike on the Platinum chair, put on your hiking shoes or bring your gear f for a game of disc golf or just ride a round trip and check out the scenery. Food and drink are offered at The Tip Restaurant deck, at the top of the mountain (take the Platinum chair lift up). Then, in July, the Red River Ski Area will host brunch at the Tip on Sundays, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. For more information, visit redriverskiarea.com.

Bull O’ The Woods Saloon Morgan Timms/Taos News

116

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Morgan Timms/Taos News Tubing From June to mid-August, visitors to Red River can fly down the mountain at Red River Ski Area's tubing areas. Ride the Little Blue Surface Lift up to enjoy the 400-foot Little Blue Hill. Riders must be 4 years old or older (there is a free mini-lane for riders under 4). Or ride what Red River Ski and Summer Area calls the “longest summer tubing lanes in the country” on Gold Rush Hill, serviced by the Gold Chairlift. Gold Rush Hill offers 800 feet of excitement (you must be 7 years of age or older). Summer tubing is available on weekdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends, weather permitting.

Disc slinging At the top of the mountain is an 18-hole disc golf course, with holes that wander through aspens and open up to beautiful views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Bring your own discs or rent from the staff at the pro-shop, which is located at the Tip Restaurant at the top of the Platinum Chair. You can also hike or bike to the top of the mountain. The Sunny Side course suits introductory level disc golfers, while the Cracker Jack offers championship pro-style challenges.

Hoof it Besides some great shopping and dining options, there are opportunities galore to work off some calories. The Red River Nature Trail starts in town beside the Platinum Lift and goes two miles along the Red River to Goose Lake Road. The trail includes interpretive signs along the way to help you learn more about the wildlife and plants around the area. For a complete list of hiking trails in the Red River area see redriver.org.

Festivals on hold for COVID-19

The comforts of a home with the perks of a hotel. Airport Shuttle Service Red River Real Estate proudly offers free shuttle service for our guests flying in and out of Taos Regional Airport.

At press time all festivals, fairs and parades were on hold but some could be added. If the state mandates changes to the Public Health Order (see below) there may be August events like the Buckaroo Ball, Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights or late September and October’s Aspencade Arts and Crafts Fair and Oktoberfest. COVID-19 UPDATE Pursuant to the June 1, 2020 New Mexico Public Health Order, Red River Ski and Summer Area kindly asks everyone to follow these guidelines. For current updates, see redriverskiarea.com/landing/coronavirus-update. T Buildings may now operate at 50 percent of standard occupancy, with dine-in and patio maximums of 6 per table. T Practice at least 6 feet of distance between you and other guests and refrain from congregating in groups larger than five people. T Use a face covering or mask when enjoying public spaces, except for eating, drinking, exercising or if a health care provider instructs otherwise.

w w w. R E D - R I V E R - N M . c o m 800-453-3498 | 575-754-2459 420 E. Main Street, Red River, NM 87558

Town of Red River (575) 754-2223 redriver.org Red River Ski Area redriverskiarea.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

117


ANGEL FIRE Sunsets that make your soul soar with views that leave you breathless. by ELLEN MILLER-GOINS

Angel Fire sits on the other side of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains from Taos, in the Moreno Valley. One origin story of how Angel Fire got its name is credited to Plains Indians because of the lightning and the St. Elmo's fire that illuminated the surrounding peaks.

COVID-19 UPDATE

Another legend says it was named by the Moache Utes who gathered there to renew their ancestral ties with the Great Spirit – whom they saw as the sun's rays that danced upon a mountain peak or the “fire of the gods.” The local lore further notes that nomadic Franciscan friars Christianized the Ute name into “breath of angels.” Frontiersman Kit Carson is often credited with changing the name to Angel Fire in 1845. 120

Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

18-hole disc golf Courtesy Angel Fire Resort/Photo by Terrance Siemon 118

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


“Make Your Mark on the Mountains”

Fax 575-37 575-377-2826 77-2826 6 ale’s cell 505-603-9436 505-60 03-9436 6 Dale’s oncustombuildin ng.com m dalejacksoncustombuilding.com

3465 Hwy 434 Suite 16, PO Box 711, Angel Fire, NM 87710

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

119


118 ANGEL FIRE

Local author Ellen Miller-Goins writes that “visitors soon appreciate what ‘Angel Fire’ means the first time they witness a sunset:

One of those spectacles of red, orange, violet, pink, gray, white and blue — so magic your smartphone cannot capture its spirit and you end up wishing you had brought your paints.” COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT/PHOTO BY MICHAEL CLARK

Angel Fire is cool, comfortable, even tranquil in the summer, but opportunities for fun are plentiful with summer art/farmers’ markets, shopping, birding, wildlife tours, horseback rides, sightseeing at nearby ghost towns and so much more.

What to do In accordance with COVID-19 precautions, Angel Fire Resort offers state-mandated physical distancing and limited group sizes in activity and food venues.

Angel Fire’s renowned par 72, 6,653-yard, 18-hole golf course is open, as is the redesigned PDGA Approved Disc Golf 18-hole course located at Agua Fria Peak via the Chile Express chairlift. Scenic chairlift rides uplift the weariest travelers and the fitness and tennis centers keep holiday athletes humming, as does the playground at Olympic Park. Monte Verde Lake is a hugely popular site to hike, fish, boat or relax on shore. The swimming pool, kids climbing wall and Euro-Bungy Jumper were

Relive the Old West...

not open at press time. Those looking for a bit more adventure can get fishing, bait and other equipment for a family fish fry. The lake is stocked with rainbow lake trout throughout the summer. The top-rated Angel Fire Bike Park reopened in June this year. Angel Fire maintains more than 100 miles of downhill and cross-country trails for all ability levels that also tie into the National Forest trail network, including the popular 122 South Boundary Trail.

r e v o c s Di Fire! Angel

Get Outta Town! Daily Scheduled Family Horse Adventures 1 hour to full day. Wedding Carriages • Gold Panning Chuckwagon Dinners

Nancy Burch’s ROADRUNNER TOURS, LTD. Since 1978

Reservations Required • 575.377.6416 Hwy. 64/434 (1 mile west of blinking light on 64), Angel Fire, NM www.nancyburch.com | nancyburch.rr@gmail.com 120

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT/PHOTO BY CHRIS MCLENNAN


Serving breakfast and lunch, with extended hours during holiday’s • SPECIALTY COFFEES • • DESSERTS • • SOFT SERVE ICE CREAM • Join us in our Dining room located inside of the Elk Horn Lodge. Or call ahead and pick it up at our drive through located on the right side of our bldg.

Located on the first floor of the Elk Horn Lodge next to the lobby

3377 Mountain View Blvd. Angel Fire NM 87710 | aceskitcheangelfire.com | (575) 613-3090

Come to Ace's

s e c a f r u o y to feed

Like us on facebook @Aces Kitchen, Angel Fire to see up to date information on specials and more.

Under New Ownership/Management The perfect location right in the center of town, minutes from summer/ winter activities, and less than a mile to the ski slopes. Each one of our rooms features FREE high-speed wifi, in-room microwave, mini fridge, and coffee service, plus a balcony with memorable mountain views. • • • • Like us on facebook @Elk Horn Lodge, Angel Fire to stay up to date.

On-Site Restaurant/Room service available Double Queen, King rooms, and 2 bedroom suites available We offer military discounts and corporate Rates! Handicap accessible room on the bottom floor also available!

Reserve your getaway today!

Our Views will enchant you

3377 Mountain View Blvd. Angel Fire NM 87710 | (575) 377- 2811 | elkhornlodgeangelfire.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

121


COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT

120 ANGEL FIRE

The Rocky Mountain Zipline Adventure Tour with Family Flyer offers two ziplines that include younger kids who don’t weigh enough, a chance to experience the excitement of mountain-top ziplining. Those weighing 90 pounds and above can have the full six-line tour. The tour is the second highest elevation zipline tour in the U.S. and the largest in New Mexico. For a little more down-to-earth adventures, try the Greenbelt freeaccess trail system where you can mountain bike, run, hike or horseback ride. The trails are located around the village of Angel Fire. At 8,382 feet, Angel Fire Airport is the fifth-highest airport in the continental U.S. and the highest in New Mexico. The 8,900-by-100-foot runway handles smaller planes and private jets. Landing and taking off can be tricky, so check the precautions and safety tips posted online for pilots’ perusal.

COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT/PHOTO BY MICHAEL CLARK

122

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Angel Fire Bike Park COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT


PHOTOS COURTESY ANGEL FIRE RESORT

The Trek Dirt Series Camp (Sept. 26-27) held at Angel Fire Bike Park is a co-ed mountain bike camp offering personalized instruction and professional programming.

COVID-19 UPDATE Despite temporary COVID-19 closures, many venues are reopening. T Buildings may now operate at 50 percent of standard occupancy, with dine-in and patio maximums of 6 per table. T Angel Fire Bike Park reopened to the general public June 5 through Aug. 16. As of press time the park is open for day tickets to ride seven days a week. Tickets are not available online, however, they must be purchased in person at the Lift Ticket office in the Chile Express base area. T When visiting the Angel Fire Bike Park, practice social distancing techniques while traveling and upon arrival.

T

T Special attention to sanitizing and minimizing risks are the operators’ main concerns and commitment to keeping visitors and locals safe.

Farmers market and dining The ever-popular Sunday Morning Art and Farmers Market is back on this year, June through Sept. 6, at Frontier Park in the heart of Angel Fire. This weekly showcase features a diverse selection of local and regional artists, great live music, food artisans and fresh produce. Commonly found at the market are fresh regional produce, Hatch green chile roasted on the spot, farm fresh eggs, local meat and dairy products, artisanal bread and baked goods, raw honey and much more. The market provides resources and opportunities to help grow small endeavors and provides a meeting place for a vibrant local community. For dining opportunities, see the Angel Fire Dining sidebar.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial Angel Fire is home to the nation’s first monument to honor veterans of the Vietnam War. Located on U.S. Highway 64, just north of Angel Fire, only the grounds and chapel are open at the memorial, due to New Mexico COVID-19 precautions. Do call ahead to verify what may have changed since press time. See vietnamveteransmemorial.org or call (575) 377-2293.

2020 EVENTS Angel Fire Golf Course Open – to book a tee time, call (575) 377-4488 angelfireresort.com

Angel Fire summer Bike Park races angelfirebikepark.com

Angel Fire Sunday Art and Farmers Markets Through September, weather permitting, in Frontier Park angelfireresort.com

Angel Fire Studio Tour Sept. 26-27 angelfirestudiotour.org

DINING The Lift Café Daily, 7 a.m.-4 p.m.' Lobby, lodge at Angel Fire Resort; (575) 377-4234 T Starbucks coffee, freshly baked goods, breakfast and lunch daily. Grab a homemade breakfast burrito (a local favorite), gourmet melt, wrap or a salad. Beer and wine also available.

El Jefe Thursday-Monday 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; Across from Chile Express; (575) 377-4234 T Fresh Mex taqueria and Mexican-themed bar located across from the Chile Express and the Angel Fire Resort base area. Serving a variety of delicious tacos and burritos and a great selection of cocktails, tequilas, tap and bottled beers and more in a fun, chill atmosphere

Elements Fine Dining Tuesday-Saturday 4-9 p.m., Angel Fire Resort Country Club upper level; (575) 377-3055 T Elements at the Country Club offers fine dining in a casual but spacious setting. Elements selects only the finest ingredients from local producers to ensure your meals are fresh and savory. Enjoy a wide selection of appetizers, steaks, seafood and light fare and a full array of beer, mixed drinks and fine wines. Private dining is available for families or small groups.

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

123


QUESTA Hiking, camping, artistry — undiscovered bliss. by ALBERTA BOUYER

This historic community is almost fully surrounded by protected wilderness, including the Río Grande del Norte National Monument and the Carson National Forest, all of which offer some of the best hiking and camping in Northern New Mexico. The village is also surrounded by artists who have found their bliss in affordable real estate and inspiring views. Questa Creative Council has become an important part in the revitalization of this often undiscovered destination. New this summer is the finalized Questa History Trail. This ongoing project of the Questa Creative Council is an 0.6-mile self-guided walking trail. It offers a true

124

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

microcosm of Río Grande Valley history, from rare geologic features, Hispano and multicultural settlements and conflicts, Native life and a lot more. A welcome map of the trail along with a timeline of 5,000 years of human population is located right at the single traffic light in town. The heart of the walking trail is the restored San Antonio de Padua Church on Questa’s hidden Historic Plaza. This adobe structure dates to the mid-1800s. The trail route is 126 rough in spots, though much of it can be driven.


August 15-16, 2020 10-5 Daily

DUE TO COVID-19, QSAT IS GOING ONLINE..SEE OUR AUCTION AT QUESTAARTSTOUR.COM | AUG 15 AND 16

Visit over 43 local artists!

STAY TUNED, CHECK ONLINE FOR UPDATES

Lama to Questa to the Sunshine Valley www.questaartstour.com

Questa Area Artists JEWELRY | PAINTINGS | POTTERY

Mike Ridder Peggy Trigg

Potter Painter

Questa Studio Art Tour or by Appointment pegtrigg@gmail.com

GALLERY AND ART STUDIOS 2322 HWY. 522 | QUESTA NM JUST MINUTES NORTH OF TAOS ON THE ENCHANTED CIRCLE BYWAY TUE-SAT 10-4 | ARTQUESTA.COM PHONE 575.224.0182 peggytrigg.com

michaelridder.com D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

125


Questa Lumber & Hardware Co. Look for our new full service Hardware store and Lumber yard at 2349 St. Hwy 522

The heart of the Questa History walking trail is the restored San Antonio de Padua church, located on Questa’s hidden Historic Plaza.

(Next to Family Dollar)

124 QUESTA

Another project of the Creative Council is the always-much-anticipated Questa Studio Arts Tour. As of press time, the tour is still going to happen. This event on the third weekend of August kicks off the art-tour season in Northern New Mexico and highlights the work of over 45 area artists. The tour route is a scenic drive itself and the planners have made life easy by gathering the more remote artists together into easy-to-find hubs. These stretch from the mountainside of Lama south of the village, to the edge of the Carson National Forest on the east, and the dramatic Sunshine Valley to the north. The tag line of this project says it all: “Where artistic traditions meet.” Questa has a long history of crafting its own art and essentials, whether rooted in necessity, creativity or devotion. A new generation of artists carry on these practices and add sophisticated, modern mediums as well. Once lockdown lifts again, area creatives can often be found at the Tuesday afternoon art sessions hosted by the Creative Council and held at the Questa Youth and Family Center, on the north side of the village. Clay work is a favorite focus, with printmaking and figure drawing also planned, depending on the rotating cast of local artists hosting. Check the Creative Council’s frequently updated online calendar of events. Complementing all of the above are ongoing activities at the new gathering spot of La Sala, just across the main road from ArtQuesta gallery, on the south end of the village. With yoga and dance classes and intimate music concerts, this is fast becoming a valuable asset for the community. Another beloved institution here is the farmers market every Sunday from June to September. Located on the History Trail, and across from the visitors center, the Sunday market features local musicians, traditional cuisine and continuity to an agrarian lifestyle with a centuries-old history. Come discover this remote, beautiful and artistic corner of Taos County. A Questa Creative Council calendar of events can be found at QuestaCreative.org. The Questa History Trail has a rich, wellresearched website at QuestaTrail.org. Detailed information about the Questa Studio Arts Tour is at QuestaArtsTour.com.

126

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

575-586-0414

Andy Jaramillo displays one of his burl bowls, during a Questa Studio Tour. Courtesy photos

575-586-0561

575-586-0419

Questa Farmers Market This year Questa Farmers Market takes place Sundays through September. To see who is selling this year, look for updates on Questa Farmers Market Facebook page.

Questa Farmers Market is an EBT/Double-up-authorized market and at least 50 percent of goods sold must be from local (within an 80-mile radius) New Mexico farms and gardens, and the remaining portion can be prepared foods and crafts. The market is authorized to accept WIC and Senior Nutrition checks. For more information contact Gaea McGahee at (575) 224-2102 or growersmakers@ gmail.com. Visit QuestaFarmersMarket.org.

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

575-586-1440

Visit us for all your hard-to-find seasonal, contracting, and home repair needs. We have the experience to get the job done with our family of stores. Personalized service is our number one priority!


EAGLE NEST ‘Home of the Browns’ and headquarters for the best game hunting in America.

Geraint Smith Photography

TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTO

NEW MEXICO STATE PARKS

Eagle Nest’s town-wide events usually include one of New Mexico’s largest and most spectacular July Fourth fireworks displays over the lake. To see if it is still on, check with the Eagle Nest Visitor Center and Enchanted Circle Gateway Museum (see left). Eagle Nest has a colorful and storied past of gunslingers, ghost towns, gold mining and wide-open, peaceful spaces. Reopened for day-fishing May 30, 2020, coronavirus safety practices and fire restrictions are still in place for national and state parks, with a soft reopening for dine-in restaurants. At press time, however, Billy Dawson’s sixth annual Nashville to New Mexico music fest was canceled and moved to 2021. For more information, go online to nashvilletonewmexico.com.

adopted the name Eagle Nest after the completion of the Eagle Nest Lake dam, which recently celebrated its 100-year anniversary in 2018. Though the state’s museums were temporarily closed at press time, restrictions may have been lifted by the time you read this. In Eagle Nest, the Enchanted Circle Gateway Museum, at 580 East Therma Drive, features culture and history exhibits, facilitates tours of historic places and serves as the official visitor center.

Ghost towns The village has been the crossroads of many pioneers and frontier Indians for centuries. Visit nearby Elizabethtown and Virginia City, both of which were vibrant and growing towns in the mining boom days. Originally named Therma, the village

Independence Day 2020 Whether they have the fireworks display at dusk this year or not, at press time they are still planning the July Fourth fire department barbecue and EMS dessert sale at 11 a.m., a socially distanced July Fourth parade (1 mile long instead of 6 blocks long) at 2 p.m., and One Night to Unite event, 5-8 p.m. at Enchanted Eagle Park – all the events and venues are subject to change, of course. Check Eagle Nest Visitor Center. Artisans and visitors all enjoy the High Country Arts Festival, held the last weekend in July; and everyone hopes for the annual September fishing derby

TAOS NEWS FILE PHOTO

– Eagle Nest Fish Fest – featuring cash and door prizes for tagged fish, casting contests, worm-eating contests and more. At the heart of this community is Eagle Nest Lake State Park, also known as the ”Home of the Browns.” The lake provides year-round fishing for trout and kokanee salmon. Ongoing through September are seasonal dam tours by boat with Eagle Nest Adventures. Call (575) 252-3252. The howl of coyotes can be heard and the tracks of the elk, deer, bear and mountain lion can be found along the self-guided flora and fauna trail walks around Eagle Nest Lake State Park. Call (575) 377-1594. Eagle Nest is also headquarters for what is arguably some of the best big and small game hunting in America. Camping, fishing, hiking and wildlife viewing are all around Eagle Nest in Cimarrón Canyon State Park, Coyote Creek State Park, the Valle Vidal Unit of Carson National Forest and the Maxwell Wildlife Refuge. Be sure to investigate all Eagle Nest has to offer, because so much is available for enjoyment within coronavirus safety practices. D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Eagle Nest Visitor Center and Gateway Museum 580 East Therma Drive (505) 721-0704 visiteaglenest.org Village of Eagle Nest (575) 377-2486 eaglenest.org

EAGLE NEST CHAMBER

COVID-19 UPDATE Business operations may be affected due to ongoing precautionary measures – contact businesses directly for updated hours and availability.

|

127


Explore the beautiful area that surrounds the

VILLAGE OF CHAMA and learn why tourists call it a vacationers’ paradise! You’ll be surprised by the wonderful beauty of the Rocky Mountain peaks, splendid gorges, colorful streams and great national and state forests. Summer activities in the High Country include hiking, mountain biking, rafting, fly fishing and horseback riding. Discover the many other activities in the Village of Chama like shopping the numerous small stores and boutiques. Chama has plenty of great places to eat – unique cafés and restaurants. Lodging opportunities range from cabins, bed-and-breakfast establishments, hotels and motels to RV and camping facilities. Most years, the Village of Chama offers tourists some

great events starting with the annual Chama Chile Ski Classic held over the MLK weekend in January – a great cross-country skiing event with races for all ages. And check out the The Annual Snowmobile Poker Run and Chama SnoBall Hot Air Balloon Rally the fourth weekend in February. Enjoy a scenic ride through gorgeous country on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. The railroad offers tourists great views of the wild terrain of the mountains and forests. Don’t be surprised to see wildlife on the trip, like deer and an occasional bear! Considered the longest and highest tourist railroad in North America, the train leaves from Chama daily to Antonito and another train leaves from

Funding provided by Village of Chama Lodgers Tax 128

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

Antonito and arrives in Chama, as well. The train remains open until mid-October. The high mountain snow feeds streams and lakes, providing some of the best fishing in the state with plenty of trout and even king salmon. Be sure to check with Fish & Game for fishing areas on the local streams. If hiking is your thing don’t forget the Continental Divide Trail is just east of Chama. There are numerous trails available for hiking and biking in the national forests that surround the Village of Chama. Visit chamadt.com and Chama Valley Chamber of Commerce at chamavalley.com for more information regarding events in 2020/2021. paid advertisement


D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M

|

129


Representing the Historical Classics and the Best Contemporary Artists

San Ildefonso Pottery by Martha Appleleaf and Eric Fender, Santa Clara Pottery by Sharon Naranjo, Taos Drums by Lee Lujan; Navajo Weaving by Charlene Laughing

14K Gold bracelets with Australian Opal and Natural American Turquoise by Gabriel Abrums

Located 3.7 miles south of the Taos Plaza #1 St. Francis Church Plaza, Ranchos De Taos, NM 87557 (575) 758.0504

www.chimayotrading.com

Contact us for the valuation and resale of your Southwestern collectable art 130

|

D I S C O V E R TA O S . C O M


Rendering is an artists interpretation.

T H E F U T U R E O F TAO S

Slopeside Sanctuary The Blake Residences are the resort’s first new real estate

Residences are available for winter

offering in over a decade. It brings turn-key living to a mountain

2020/2021. To find out more please visit

community that values the intimate feel and rich traditions

theblakeresidences.skitaos.com

of Taos Ski Valley. Twenty-four fully appointed and furnished residences sit at the doorstep of a world-class hub for skiing,

Leslie A. Campbell

alpine hiking, biking trails, cultural and performance art,

Director of Sales / Real Estate

boutique shopping as well as many other gems within a short distance of the resort’s vibrant village.

Leslie.Campbell@skitaos.com 575-741-1813


NOW NOWOPEN! OPEN!

TAOS TAOSPUEBLO’S PUEBLO’SHAIL HAILCREEK CREEKTRAVEL TRAVELCENTER CENTER Affordable Affordable Gas Gas && Cigarettes Cigarettes Convenient Convenient Northside Northside location location atat corner corner ofof Hail Hail Creek Creek and and USUS 6464 Fuel Fuel Available Available 2424 Hours Hours

Stop Stop byby and and Visit Visit Taos’ Taos’ Newest Newest Travel Travel Center Center


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.