Discover Taos: Summer/Fall 2017 Visitor Guide by The Taos News

Summer/Fall 2017 /// discovertaos.com

discovertaos.com /// Summer/Fall 2017

Summer/Fall 2017 /// discovertaos.com

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Summer/Fall 2017 /// discovertaos.com

RELAX

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3AM S 3HOP "ENT 3TREET 4AOS

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summer/fall 2017

124 Courtesy Angel Fire Resort Courtesy Angel Fire Resort

Discover arte, cultura, historia 38

Through the eyes of the beholders The museums and historic homes of Taos

Rock art Petroglyphs of Taos’ borderlands By Cody Hooks

The soul of Taos If Taos Mountain is the heartbeat of Taos, then Taos Pueblo is its soul 26

The sky stone Turquoise tales and truths By Scott Gerdes

All about arts and crafts It’s no secret that arts and crafts fairs, festivals and studio tours in Taos and nearby environs are synonymous

Discover la diversión 70

Hook up Where to get Wi-Fi while out and about

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Kid stuff Children-friendly activities and places

Dance to the music For a small, rural town, Taos has a gamut of nightlife — dance floors included.

‘Toi, toi, toi’ Taos Opera Institute Festival celebrates 10th anniversary By Kandace Nachtrab

Mixin’ it up Music on the Mesa 2017 By Ariana Kramer

Discover delicioso

wineries are right on track By Molly Steinbach

Drinking it all in Enchanted Circle brewpubs to wet your whistle

Cousin cuisines The Mexican and New Mexican flavors of Taos By Teresa Dovalpage

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Discover aventura

Burger bliss The New Mexican take on the American classic

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Antonio’s return The Taste of Mexico serves up an experience true to its name By John Miller

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Finding the perfect balance Northern New Mexico

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Off road Mountain bike style By Andy Dennison Continues on 28

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28 STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS summer/fall 2017

DISCOVER TAOS

SUMMER VISITOR GUIDE TAOS NEWS STAFF

138

118 88

Tracee Gonzales The ‘fireplug’ newspaper street vendor

Jason Rodriguez Print artist and artful visionary Continues from 26

130

Hiking back in time The Río Grande del Norte National Monument By Cindy Brown

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Excellent excursions Hooks, headwaters, heat, horizons and hooves

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Presenting you on tour Guided walking, riding and photography tours

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Golfing at high altitude Tips to teeing off mountain style By Andy Dennison

Discover terrorífico 158

Haunted hallways ‘Is this place ghostly by any chance?’ By M. Elwell Romancito

Discover las comunidades 168

Arroyo Seco

170

164

Iggy Igloo and Charles D. Kading Street musicians and activists

MAPS

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Angel Fire

Getting here

182

Eagle Nest

Area maps

184

Walking map

190

Calendar

Red River Questa

À la carte

34 36

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cindy Brown Andy Dennison Teresa Dovalpage Ellen Miller-Goins Ariana Kramer Kandace Nachtrab M. Elwell Romancito Molly Steinbach

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Megan Bowers Avina Cindy Brown Ewan McClain Brian Perkins M. Elwell Romancito Rick Romancito Geraint Smith Terry Thompson

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: Fly fishing in the Brazos River near Chama, New Mexico by Ryan Heffernan.

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Faces of Taos Interviews by Scott Gerdes/photos by Megan Bowers Avina

Charles Collins Painter and sculptor Kaiiba Mountain Tattoo artist/fire twirler/sculptor/painter/ beadworker/student

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Cisco Guevara Whitewater rafting guide and storyteller

Taos Ski Valley

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Robin Martin, owner Chris Baker, publisher Staci Matlock, editor Chris Wood, advertising manager Scott Gerdes, special sections editor Michelle M. Gutierrez, lead editorial designer Karin Eberhardt, production manager Katharine Egli, staff photographer Cody Hooks, reporter John Miller, reporter Yvonne Pesquera, digital editor

From left: Native to the high Andes, llamas are right at home in the alpine splendor of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, courtesy Wild Earth Llama Adventures; and Tacos and margaritas Taos style, photo by Katharine Egli.

Connect with us! DiscoverTaos.com

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TO COLORADO

ENCHANTED CIRCLE

196

COSTILLA

522

CERRO

AMALIA VALLE VIDAL

EL RITO

378 QUESTA

WILD ROVERS RECREATION AREA

TRES PIEDRAS

SAN CRISTOBAL

GREATER WORLD EARTHSHIP COMMUNITY

522 D.H. LAWRENCE RANCH

STAGE COACH HOT SPRINGS

ARROYO HONDO

230

RED RIVER

RED RIVER SKI AREA TAOS SKI VALLEY

RIO GRANDE GORGE BRIDGE

ENCHANTED FOREST CROSS COUNTRY SKI AREA

ELIZABETH TOWN

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VIETNAM VETERANS MEMORIAL STATE PARK

TAOS AIRPORT

TAOS RANCHOS DE TAOS

TALPA

518

ANFEL FIRE SKI RESORT

434

TO SANTA FE TO SIPAPU SKI AREA AND THE HIGH ROAD

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2017: YEAR OF TAOS VISIONARIES

TAOS.org/100

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MUSEUMS

HISTORIC BUILDINGS

NOTEWORTHY SITES

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1 2 3 4 5

A Kit Carson Park & Cemetery B Location of original Our Lady of Guadalupe Church C Taos Community Auditorium D First Presbyterian Church E D.H. Lawrence Ranch

E.L. Blumenschein House Harwood Museum of Art Governor Charles Bent House Taos Art Museum at Fechin House Kit Carson Home & Museum Millicent Rogers Museum Hacienda de los Martínez

8 9 10 12 14 15 16 17 19 20 21 22

Taos Plaza Hotel La Fonda de Taos Historic County Courthouse Our Lady of Guadalupe Church Guadalupe Plaza and Santistevan House Padre Martínez House La Loma Plaza Long John Dunn House Bert Phillips House Arthur Manby House The Historic Taos Inn El Ríncon Trading Post Walter Ufer Studio Luna Chapel and Sharp Studio Eanger Irving Couse House Mabel Dodge Luhan House Victor Higgins House

OFF THE MAP

San Francisco de Asís Church Taos Pueblo Arroyo Seco

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38 DISCOVER ARTE

THROUGH THE EYES OF THE BEHOLDERS The museums and historic homes of Taos

here is no shortage of colorful and influential characters who have made their mark on Taos. If you’re an art and history hound, then be sure to explore the following places that helped solidify Taos as an art colony and a major player in frontier trading. HACIENDA DE LOS MARTINEZ This thick-walled adobe fortress-like trading post with 21 rooms surrounding two interior courtyards is on the National Register of Historic Places and gives a glimpse of rugged frontier life. It was constructed in 1804 by Severino Martinez. Severino and his wife, Maria del Carmel Santistevan Martinez, raised six children here. Their eldest son was the famous Padre Antonio Martinez, who battled the French Bishop Lamy to preserve the Hispanic character of the Catholic Church in the territory. The Hacienda is one of the few Northern New Mexico style, late Spanish Colonial period “Great Houses” remaining in the American Southwest. Serving as an important trade center and gathering place, the Hacienda was the final terminus for the Camino Real, which connected Northern New Mexico to Mexico City. It was also the headquarters for an extensive ranching and farming operation. Admission is $8 for adults; $7 seniors; $4 per child (5-15), free admission for children under 5; free admission for Taos County residents on Sundays; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available. 708 Hacienda Way off Ranchitos Road, (575) 758-1000, taoshistoricmuseums.org. Hours: Mon-Sat. 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday noon-5 p.m. Continues on 40

Scott Gerdes

Courtyard walkway through La Hacienda de los Martinez.

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Scott Gerdes

The Joyce and Sherman Scott Gallery at The Harwood Museum of Art. Continues from 38

THE HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART The Harwood Museum of Art showcases a permanent collection of more than 4,700 works and an archive of 17,000 photographs from the 19th century onward. In the early part of the 20th century, many artists — such as Agnes Martin — were drawn to the Taos area to pursue a new, truly American art devoid of industrial influence, inspired instead by New Mexico’s landscape and light, and the traditional Native American and Hispanic cultures of the region. The Harwood Museum collection brings to the public a unique record of this artistic convergence from its beginnings to the present day. The embracing spirit of the Harwood was established by artists Burt and Elizabeth Harwood. From June 3 through Sept. 17, the museum presents, “The Errant Eye: Portraits in a Landscape,” a wide-ranging selection of portraits in various mediums from the museum’s permanent collection. The exhibit surveys the role of the portrait in Taos arts, explores its evolving roles as an art form and demonstrates the power of portraiture to capture the human condition. See the calendar listings beginning on page 210 for more specific summer events. Admission is $10 per adult; $8 for seniors; $8 per student; free admission to youth (18 and under), free admission to UNM students and 40

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D.H. LAWRENCE RANCH Also known as Kiowa Ranch, this site is situated on 160 pristine acres on Lobo Mountain, about 20 miles north of Taos. Frieda, the wife of the famed author, entrusted the ranch in her will to the University of New Mexico for the purpose of creating a public memorial to her husband. The ranch features buildings TAOS ART MUSEUM AT once used as respites for other writers and FECHIN HOUSE artists such as Georgia O’Keeffe. Still The former home and studio of artist standing is the ponderosa pine Nicolai Ivanovich Fechin, showcasing A LOOK INSIDE: tree O’Keeffe painted during a blend of early 20th-century RusFrom April 29 through her first visit to New Mexico sian and Southwestern artworks. Oct. 8, the exhibit “W. in 1929 (“The Lawrence Fechin built the home for his Herbert ‘Buck’ Dunton Tree”). The towering tree is family between 1927 and 1933. Twilight of the West” in front of the main house. Fechin, born in Kazan, Russia, will be on display at the The ranch is also home to the in 1881, carved and molded the Fechin House. D.H. Lawrence Memorial Chaadobe buildings into a fascinating, pel. The couple owned and lived harmonic marriage of Russian, Native at the ranch during their visits to American and Spanish motifs. Also home Taos in the early 1920s. to the Taos Society of Artists. Lawrence was a British novelist, playwright, Admission is $10 per adult; $9 for seniors; $6 per student; $8 per person in groups of 10 or more; essayist, literary critic and painter. Among his most famous works were “Women in Love” free admission to children under 12; free admisand “Lady Chatterley’s Lover.” sion on Sundays for Taos County residents; private The ranch is on the National Register of tours by appointment. It is always free to visit the Historic Places and the New Mexico State museum grounds and store. Register of Cultural Properties. San Cristobal 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, (575) 758-2690, Road off State Highway 522 North (make a taosartmuseum.org, Hours: Tue.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 right turn after mile marker 10; signs mark the p.m. Museum will be closed July 4. faculty; free admission to members of the Harwood Museum of Art Alliance; free admission to Taos County residents on Sundays. 238 Ledoux Street, (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum.org. Hours: Wed.-Fri., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., noon-5 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Continues on 42

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Courtesy photo

THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF COLORFUL AND INFLUENTIAL CHARACTERS WHO HAVE MADE THEIR MARK ON TAOS. TAOS IS AN ART COLONY AND A MAJOR PLAYER IN FRONTIER TRADING.

Taos Society of Artists founding member Oscar E. Berninghaus in his Taos studio. Continues from 40

rest of the way), San Cristobal, (575) 737-9300, dhlawrencetaos.org. Hours: Please call. THE E.L. BLUMENSCHEIN HOME AND MUSEUM Maintained as when artist Ernest L. Blumenschein — an original member of the Taos Society of Artists — and his family lived there. The 1797 home is filled with a superb collection of the Blumenschein family’s art, a representative sampling of works by other famous Taos artists, fine European and Spanish Colonial style antiques, and the family’s lifetime of personal possessions. The home beautifully illustrates the lifestyle of Taos artists in the first half of the 20th century. Admission is $8 for adults; $7 for seniors; $4 per child (5-15), free admission for children under 5; free admission for Taos County residents on Sundays; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available. 222 Ledoux Street, (575) 758-0505, taoshistoricmuseums. org, Hours: Mon-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday, noon-5 p.m. GOVERNOR BENT HOUSE AND MUSEUM The home of the state’s first American governor — a trapper, trader and mountain man. Charles Bent was appointed governor of New Mexico in 1834 when it became American territory during the Mexican-American War. Outside the home in January 1847, he was scalped alive and then killed by an angry mob protesting the American rule. The museum also features 19th-century artifacts of the area and a surprise oddity. Admission is $3 for adults, $.50 children. 117 Bent Street, Hours: Daily, 9 a.m.-5 p.m., (575) 758-2376, laplaza.org. THE COUSE-SHARP HISTORIC SITE The home of 20th-century artist Eanger Irving Couse and his family, and studios of Couse 42

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and J.H. Sharp — founding members of the Taos Society of Artists who were instrumental in creating the cultural fabric of Taos as we know it today. Wander through the Couse home and see how these pioneer painters lived. Stand at Couse’s easel, see the model’s stage and props. Nothing is under glass. All remains as it was 100 years ago. The site is open for tours from May through October. 146 Kit Carson Road, call (575) 751-0369, or go online to couse-sharp.org. Hours: Tours are made by appointment.

members. 113 Kit Carson Road, (575) 758-4945, kitcarsonmuseum.org. Hours: Daily March through October, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

THE MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM Established as a memorial to Millicent Rogers whose inspiration, patronage and collections form the cores of its holdings. Rogers (1902-1953) was the granddaughter of Henry Huttleston Rogers, one of the founders of the Standard Oil Company. At her homes in New York, Virginia, Italy and KIT CARSON HOME AND MUSEUM elsewhere, she entertained the great and splendid Taos’ oldest museum is the home of Chrisfrom American industrialists to European nobiltopher “Kit” Carson — frontiersman, trapper, ity. She was the fashionista of her day. In her later soldier and scout. The Kit Carson Home and years, she visited and eventually settled in Taos. Museum, still standing in its original footprint Here, she became close friends with many of the on Kit Carson Road in Taos, was built circa founding members of the Taos artist’s colony. Her 1825 and purchased by Carson as a wedding gift namesake museum houses 15 galleries featuring for his third wife, Maria Josefa Jaramillo, a mem- the heritage of the Southwest, including jewelry, ber of a prominent Taos family. The territorialpaintings, and pottery — such as the family colstyle adobe building was to be their home for the lection of heralded potter Maria Martinez. next 25 years. Seven of their eight children were The majority of the museum’s galleries, housing born and raised in the home, along with several more than 6,000 objects, are representative of Native American children who had been freed the diverse Indigenous and Hispanic cultures of by the Carsons from captivity. The Carsons the Southwest with particular strengths in moved to Fort Garland, Colorado, in the traditional arts of Northern New A LOOK INSIDE: 1866, leaving many of their possesMexico. This summer Millicent sions behind. After the death of Admission is $10 per adult; Rogers Museum features the Josefa on April 27, 1868, and $8 for seniors (60+); $6 for temporary exhibits, “Picturing Kit shortly thereafter on May military (active or veteran); Home; Landscapes of the 23, 1868, the home changed $6 for students (16-21 with Southwest” through the end ownership six times before it ID); $2 per child (6-16); free of the year and “Corn, was purchased in 1911 by the admission for children under Sacred Giver of Life” from Grand Masonic Lodge of New 6; free admission for Taos August 19, 2017, through Mexico to be maintained as a County residents; tour rates January 31, 2018. memorial to Freemason Kit Carson and discount cards for multiple in perpetuity. visits are available. Admission is $7 per adult; $6 for se1504 Millicent Rogers Road, (575) niors; $5 for teens and students; free to children 758-2462, millicentrogers.org. Hours: Daily April under 12; $5 tour groups of 10 or more; free to through October, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. The museum Kit Carson Home and Museum members; free is closed July 4 and during the Feast of San to Taos County residents every Sunday; free to Geronimo (Sept. 30). — Compiled by Scott Gerdes active military personnel and free to Masonic

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Welcome

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DISCOVER HISTORIA

ROCK ART: Petroglyphs of Taos’ borderlands By Cody Hooks

own in the Río Grande Gorge just a little south of Taos and near the southern end of the Río Grande del Norte National Monument is the Taos Junction Bridge. A few steps past that is Vista Verde trail, an unassuming footpath in an otherwise brilliant landscape. There, an ancient and deep past lies almost hidden in plain sight. Under the blazing New Mexican sun, they are almost impossible to see. But with a little cloud cover, these markings — petroglyphs — come to life. Petroglyphs are symbols, images and sometimes words carved, pecked and scratched into the black basalt of Taos’ volcanic flows and rifts. Some are dots and lines, others clearly human. Still others detail down to the day when a particular Spanish settler made their way through the Gorge. People will casually call petroglyphs “rock art.” But in a constantly changing human landscape where borders, cultures, economies and religions of different nations meet, mingle and intertwine, petroglyphs are among the most concrete of histories that tell of Taos’ past. Since humans started moving through the Río Grande Valley at least 12,000 years ago, they’ve been leaving their marks on the rocks of the Gorge. The oldest glyphs, so called “archaic vocabulary,” come in long series of dots, concentric circles, zigzags, random lines and some plants and animals. Made by hunter-gatherers, the style lasted until about 1,000 years ago. Merrill Dicks, archeologist with the Bureau of Land Management in Taos, cautioned against trying to interpret the meanings of such old glyphs. “That gets into shaky ground,” he said. “But they establish a long record of folks affirming their connection with the landscape.” At the end of a little walk on the Vista Verde trail is what Gary and Dorothy Grief, citizen-archaeologists with the Taos Archaeological Society, call Ancient Rock. The circles, wheels and spirals on the face of the boulder may be markers for a solar calendar used long ago. “You can tell they’re old,” they said, “because of the patina covering the glyph.” Much of the rock art on the Río Grande is pecked into the black basalt, a tough geologic canvas. People made these images by meticulously chipping off the black patina, or desert Continues on 71

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Katharine Egli

A teepee petroglyph off La Vista Verde Trail in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area located within the RĂo Grande del Norte National Monument and along the RĂo Grande Wild and Scenic River.

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50 DISCOVER CULTURA Y HISTORIA

Katharine Egli

The annual Taos Pueblo Powwow, which takes place during the second weekend in July, offers a stunning example of Native tradition and colorful pageantry.

THE SOUL OF TAOS I f Taos Mountain (aka Pueblo Peak) is the heartbeat of Taos, then Taos Pueblo is its soul.

NATIVE ENERGY The power of Native Nations is as strong as ever, an energy that is clearly evident at the annual Taos Pueblo Powwow. The 32nd gathering of Native Nations for three days of singing, dancing and drumming begins Friday (July 7) at the powwow grounds located at the end of Ben Romero Road in El Prado. Turn at the designated entrance north of the Overland Ranch off U.S. 64 west/Paseo del Pueblo Norte and follow the dirt road. The road will lead to the Taos Pueblo Reservation Lands. This is where the powwow has taken place on the second weekend of July for more than 30 years. During that time, the powwow has become well known throughout the nation for its high quality drum groups, dancers and scenic beauty. As many as 8,000 visitors have been logged each year. A powwow typically begins with a Grand Entry of the dancers. All participants dance into the circle in their respective categories, led into the arena by a tribal elder or veteran carrying a staff of eagle feathers. The eagle feather staff is the universal symbol and “flag” of Indian people throughout North America. When all dancers are in the circle in their respective categories, a flag song or the national anthem of the Indian 50

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Feast Days also coincide with the people is sung, followed by an FEAST DAYS: JUNE 13 invocation by a tribal elder. Then traditional Pueblo beliefs, which San Antonio Feast Day allows the people of the Pueblo the dance begins with intertribal JUNE 24 dancing. This is a time when all community to practice both the San Juan Feast Day dancers, competing or not, can Catholic and Pueblo religions. Feast JULY 25 “strut their stuff” displaying their days are not only a celebration of Santiago Feast Day best dancing abilities. faith, but allow tribal members to JULY 26 In addition, the powwow come together in a renewal of their Santa Ana Feast Day features a variety of arts and language and culture. A typical SEPT. 29 crafts vendors that will be offerFeast Day is a day of eating, visiting San Geronimo Eve ing items such as: Navajo silver with family, friends and enjoyVespers jewelry, contemporary Hopi art, ing the traditional dances that are SEPT. 30 paintings, shawls, beadwork, allowed to be witnessed by public San Geronimo Day organic soaps, pottery, etc. Food spectators. Feast days are an integral booths include crepes, corn dogs, turkey legs, part of the Pueblo culture. mutton, fry bread, Mexican food, Frito pies and Although feast days are open to the public, other goodies. Admission to the Taos Pueblo one must be invited into a home to visit and/ Powwow is $15 per person/per day; $20 per or share a feast day meal. Please use comperson/2-day pass; $25 per person/3-day pass; mon courtesy and do not walk into a home and children 10 and under admitted free. Fees uninvited. Other common courtesies include: include camera/video charge. Cash only. No After a dance is over please do not applaud for refunds due to inclement weather. Admission these are not performances. Native dances are does not include entry to Taos Pueblo. Tickets part of a ceremony and it is an honor to see available only at the gate. Grounds open at 10 them. Please, while watching the dances, do not a.m. each day. The powwow ends at approxitalk to community members regarding what mately 10 p.m. on Friday (July 7) and Saturday is the significance of the dance nor speak with (July 8); 6 p.m. on Sunday (July 9). 888-285the dancers, and please don’t applaud after the 6344, taospueblopowwow.com ceremonies. Cameras and cell phones are not allowed during religious ceremonies; they could CELEBRATIONS OF FAITH be confiscated and won’t be returned. Feast day Feast days were introduced by the Spanhours are 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Call for ceremony ish colonization and represent the celebration of the Patron Saints of the Catholic religion. times, (575) 758-1028. taospueblo.com

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magpie wonderful things for your nest

locally handcrafted gifts · cards · fused glass folk art · fine art · pottery · jewelry

magpie

at Overland Ranch three miles North of the Taos Plaza

781.248.0166 www.magpietaos.com 52

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taosmenus.com

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IN THE HEART OF THE TAOS HISTORIC DISTRICT

DISCOVER OUR SHOPS: Amina’s Children’s Boutique Ammann Gallery Bent Street Café & Deli Clarke & Company Coffee Cats Common Thread Coyote Moon Folk Art

Great Noodles Kokopelli Flutes La Tierra Mineral Gallery Las Comadres Gallery Letherwerks The Little Place Boutique Mariposa Boutique

John Dunn House Shops, 120–124 Bent Street

Monet’s Kitchen Mooncat Fiber Op.Cit Books Seconds Eco Store Steppin’ Out Stitch-in-Time The Hot Dog Lady

JohnDunnShops.com discovertaos.com /// Summer/Fall 2017

58 DISCOVER ARTE

THE SKY STONE Turquoise tales and truths By Scott Gerdes

he hydrated phosphate of copper and aluminum, known worldwide as turquoise, is as much a symbol of the Southwest as cacti and Kokopelli. It most commonly comes in various shades of blue and green, and even has a specific color named after its brilliance. The word “turquoise” is derived from the French turques for “Turks,” because it was first brought to Europe from Turkey. Much of America’s turquoise is found in Nevada, but mines can also be found in Arizona, Colorado and, here, in New Mexico. (Why not Utah? That’s a question yet to be answered.) Other countries known for quality turquoise are China, Chile, Egypt, Iran and Mexico. In those places, rainfall infiltrates soil and rock, dissolving small amounts of copper in the process. After the water evaporates, the copper combines with aluminum and phosphorous thereby depositing small amounts of turquoise on the walls of subsurface fractures. A solid mass of turquoise is formed when it completely replaces the rock it came into contact with — the result is the host rock appears as the “matrix” (aka veins, spiderwebs) within the stone. The word “chalchihuite” or “chalchihuitl,” from the Nahuatl Indian language of Central Mexico, was used for turquoise in New Mexico by the Navajos and other groups into the late 1800s, according to Amigos de Cerrillos State Park information. South of Santa Fe in the hills of Cerrillos, the once-thriving mining area held a notable appeal to world-famous jeweler Tiffany & Co. However, before the New York-based business took hold of the mine, Native peoples followed by Spanish colonists were drawn to the stone’s allure. The Cerrillos mining area has seen activity since 600 A.D. In present day, the mine is owned by an individual. In Native cultures, this semi-precious, ornamental, opaque gemstone has been valued for its beauty and reputed spiritual and life-giving qualities for more than 7,000 years. Since its ancient discovery by Native peoples, they have cherished turquoise and often refer to it as the stone of life 58

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59 — stone of sky, stone of water, stone of blessings, good fortune, protection and good health. It isn’t just its cultural significance, color or the fact that it is found almost solely in arid regions that make turquoise unique and special. Whether dramatic or subtle, a piece of turquoise’s matrix is like a snowflake — no two are exactly alike. And while those brown to black veins found MILLICENT ROGERS in many types of turquoise are MUSEUM TURQUOISE created by numerous geologiGALA • AUG. 5 cal chains of events occurring Annual dinner party and over thousands of years, that fundraiser for the storied hasn’t stopped copycats from museum hosted at El trying to pass on fakes to Monte Sagrado in Taos. untrained eyes. China isn’t the millicentrogers.org only place imitation turquoise (575) 758-2462 generates from, but it has become a major producer of the fake stuff that is typically created from howlite or magnesite (both white in their natural states) and dyes. “The Chinese are phenomenally good copiers,” warns Louise Pasaka, owner of Mesas’s Edge on Taos Plaza and at Taos Ski Valley. So, how do you know you’re looking at the real thing? “It’s not so easy to determine real from fake,” she confirms. For the last 10 years, Pasaka has based her business — as have other Taos retailers — on selling only the real McCoy. Like other reputable retailers, she educates herself by knowing the mines, the miners and the artists and passes on that knowledge to customers. “People must ask questions,” she implores. Questions such as: Where did this stone come from? Who is the artist? Another way to find out if a stone is true turquoise is by its weight. It will be heavier than an imposter, but that is hard to tell if the stone is set in silver. And you can’t rely on the matrix of a piece of turquoise to tell you if it’s real or not. Copiers have been known to paint vein lines on fakes. Turquoise veins are naturally a caramel color or black. Running your fingernail across a stone will expose if it is smooth or not. The smoother the surface is, the more likely the lines were painted. Having a matrix doesn’t, however, mean a stone is real and a stone with no matrix doesn’t mean it’s fake. Some jewelry creators cut out small pieces of a stone to get nuggets without matrix. Pasaka also advises to look for “funny colors” beyond the matrix — if the colors are dark or too blue and don’t look realistic, the stone is probably a phony. True turquoise will always be somewhat variegated. To test a stone Pasaka questions herself, she sticks a hot needle into it. A fake, she says, emits a chemical odor and plastic melts. It’s a little easier to tell if turquoise beads are real or fake. Look at a beaded necklace — if the beads are uneven, then it’s a good sign they were hand rolled. If bead sizes are too consistent, too perfect, it’s a safe bet they were not handmade. “When an artist or a vendor tells you the beads Katharine Egli are handmade, be careful,” Pasaka advizes. “These The real McCoy — days, beads are mostly mass produced. The real turquoise from the deal would also be very expensive. Few people

Pilot Mountain mine in Nevada.

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ALL ABOUT ARTS ... and crafts

t’s no secret that arts and crafts fairs, festivals and studio tours in Taos and nearby environs are synonymous — a bonded trio that feeds off each other, keeping history alive, traditions intact and unparalleled creativity vibrant. Whether you’re a longtime art, craft fair lover or getting your feet wet for the first time, you’ve come to the right place. When it comes to everything arts around the Enchanted Circle, there is literally something for everyone. TAOS LILAC FESTIVAL AND SPRING ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR

May 19-21, Friday (May 19), 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; Saturday (May 20), 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday (May 21), 10 a.m.-5 p.m. taoslilacfestival.com

This year marks the fifth annual Taos Lilac Festival held at Kit Carson Park. Hundreds of residents and visitors come to partake in the events. The event was established to celebrate the Taos area’s lilac heritage and promote planting and care of the plants. Expect dozens of talented artisans and craftspeople to display work ranging from ceramics, fiber, wood, leather and metalwork to jewelry and art pieces. The “Grand Festival Weekend” includes a pet parade and costume contest, live entertainment, children’s carousel, bluegrass music, food and family-friendly activities. The Taos Lilac Festival Inc. is the sponsoring organization — a nonprofit corporation. The festival is an all-volunteer effort with no paid staff and several sponsors. Lilacs flourish abundantly in Taos and peak the last two weeks of May. A lilac walking tour map of the Taos Historic District and maps showing the lilac-decorated windows are available at the information booth in Kit Carson Park. 35TH ANNUAL HIGH COUNTRY ARTS & CRAFTS FESTIVAL July 28-30 (575) 377-2420; eaglenestchamber.org

Juried artisans and craftsmen from across the country gather to offer their one-of-a-kind creations at Enchanted Eagle Nest Park in Eagle Nest — a stop on the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway in between Angel Fire and Red River. The High Country Arts & Crafts Festival is a juried show open to qualified artisans and crafters. It has brought area and out-of-state talent 60

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Tina Larkin

The Tio Vivo Carousel is a popular attraction for all ages during the annual Lilac Festival and Spring Arts and Crafts Fair in Kit Carson Park.

to the Moreno Valley since 1982, benefiting the Eagle Nest Chamber of Commerce. Food vendors, youth exhibits, live music, wine tasting and beer garden plus a whole lot more. Indoor and outdoor weekend event. QUESTA STUDIO TOUR

Aug. 12-1, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. (505) 974-5314; questa-nm.com

Artists from Questa and the surrounding communities open their studios or gather in satellite locations to share their talent and offer unique works for sale including woodcarvings, stained glass, paintings and ceramics. More than 35 artists participated in last year’s tour. Come explore these beautiful mountain settlements, enjoy a local burger or burrito, homemade ice cream, and art from the traditional to the fabulously modern. CHAMA VALLEY STUDIO TOUR

Sept. 2-3, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. (575) 756-2542; chamavalleystudiotour.com

Artists from the villages of Chama on the north, Chama West, Brazos Canyon, Los Ojos and Tierra Amarilla on the south along state highways 64/84 in northern Río Arriba County, open their studios to the public. Works include photography, knit clothing, ceramics, bead art, metal and fabric art and more. Maps available online and at stops on the tour. Look for the green-numbered signs. TAO STUDIO TOUR

Sept. 2-4, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. taosartistorg.org.

Now in its 10th year, the Taos Artist Organization (TAO) kick-starts the early fall revelry over Labor Day weekend with the Taos Studio Tour featuring more than 30 emerging and established artists. Gifted, visual creators working in a variety of mediums open their studios around Taos from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day. Tour brochures are available at the Taos Visitor Center (1139 Paseo del Pueblo Sur) or online at taosartistorg.org.

RÍO COSTILLA STUDIO TOUR Sept. 9-10, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. riocostillaart.com

A thriving group of artists and craftspeople living in the watershed of the Río Costilla open their homes and studios at the southern edge of the San Luis Valley of southern Colorado and Northern New Mexico. For the past 19 years, these artists have held the tour — a celebration of art and fine food, friendship and renewal through creativity. Also featured is the 9th Annual Emerging Artists Show and the spectacular, blooming wildflower fields in the area. HIGH ROAD ART TOUR Sept. 16-17/23-24 800-866-8643; highroadnewmexico.com

The High Road to Taos Scenic Byway is a back-country, scenic route that twists through the Sangre de Cristo Mountains between Santa Fe and Taos. It offers stunning mountain vistas, alpine meadows and charming traditional Spanish and Pueblo villages. This area has inspired many artists and artisans who live along the High Road. On both weekends during the tour there will be farmers’ markets set up at Gaucho Blue in Peñasco and at the High Road Art Gallery in Truchas. There will also be some farm locations open to the public throughout the two weekends. The route begins north of Santa Fe in Pojoaque, New Mexico, at the intersection of U.S. highways 285/84 and State Road 503. Download a tour brochure with map. ASPENCADE ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR Sept. 22-24 (575) 754-2366 redriverchamber.org, redriver.org

Browse through booths of hand-crafted items, jewelry, home furnishings, food, art, pottery and specialty goods while enjoying delicious food, Continues on 64

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live entertainment and the crisp air and changing colors of fall in Red River. The event also commemorates Red River’s 1895 founding in a unique way with a “steampunk” theme — a mix of science fiction, the industrial revolution, history and fantasy — featuring the Steampunk Fashion Show and a Tea Duel. Held at Brandenburg Park and the Red River Conference Center. Weekend entry fee of $5. 43RD ANNUAL TAOS FALL ARTS FESTIVAL Sept. 22-Oct. 1 All day taosfallarts.com

The oldest art festival in Taos and one of the most comprehensive art shows of the year held at various locations throughout Taos. Includes the Taos Select and Taos Open. The art event that started it all in Taos has inspired artists for more than a century and has helped lift Taos to prominence as a world-class art destination. Each autumn, both locals and visitors gather in anticipation of the Taos Fall Arts Festival (TFAF), an opportunity to experience and celebrate all that the artists of Taos have to offer. TFAF is a showcase of juried and open art shows featuring more than 250 artists ranging from traditional to contemporary to folk art. Workshops, dance and music performances as well as youth art programs are also part of the annual festival.

Katharine Egli

The Taos Studio Tour calls to hundreds of art lovers during the annual event that kicks off the fall arts revelry in Taos .

TAOS FALL ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR Sept. 29-Oct. 1

The great-grandmother of all Taos open-air arts and crafts fairs and sister to the Spring Arts & Crafts Fair is entering its 47th run at Kit Carson Park in Taos. Its storied history began in the early 1970s when artists banded together to present a central location for visitors and locals to see and purchase the work of artisans. On hand will be creations by fine woodworkers, painters, sculptors, jewelry makers, copper and tin metalsmiths and much more, all interspersed with food and music. 31ST ANNUAL EL RITO STUDIO TOUR Sept. 30-Oct. 1 10 a.m.-5 p.m. elritostudiotour.org

Hidden in plain sight is a small community embraced by the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains where residents have lived quietly for generations cultivating lives that foster independence and creativity. Fifty miles north of Santa Fe, just 12 miles off U.S. Highway 84, El Rito is brimming with talent in both traditional and contemporary media. Numerous weekend stops, including one on the New Mexico Fiber Arts Trail and the New Mexico Potter’s Trail, display works by more than 40 artists in the setting in which the tour was created. There is also a mercado at the El Rito Community Center.

Brian Perkins

A crowd witnesses a sheep-shearing exhibition during a past Taos Wool Festival at Kit Carson Park.

34TH ANNUAL TAOS WOOL FESTIVAL

Oct. 7-8 Saturday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. taoswoolfestival.org

Have we any wool? Why, yes, sir. The Northern New Mexico region holds a longstanding history and tradition with raising and utilizing wool and other animal fibers. The popular part festival, part arts and crafts fair known as the Taos Wool Festival returns for its 34th year at Kit Carson Park. Fans of the festival come for supplies, tools, conversation and finished goods. Kids come for the silly sheep and alpaca faces, the spinning wheels, shearing demonstrations and hands-on activities. Other demonstrations include spinning, dyeing and many fiber-related skills. There is a Dog Sweater Show & Contest, silent auction and workshops. The festival is also an outstanding regional wool market featuring juried vendors displaying their wool fiber, yarns and artistic creations. Contests include hand-spun yarn, wool and alpaca fleeces, finished garments and home accessories. ABIQUIÚ STUDIO TOUR Oct. 7-9, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

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File photo

Food is also part of the annual Taos Arts and Craft Fair. abiquiustudiotour.org

The 24th annual Columbus Day weekend Abiquiú Studio Tour is a self-guided driving tour that takes visitors and collectors through the village of Abiquiú and the surrounding Chama River Valley — a landscape of grand mountains, spectacular rock formations and the glorious rivers of the Piedra Lumbra basin. This area of Northern New Mexico was famed painter Georgia O’Keeffe’s second home. More than 30 area artists open their studios to the public. Complimentary maps are available at all the studios, local businesses and online for download. — Compiled by Scott Gerdes

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Kit Carson married the beautiful Maria Josefa Jaramillo in Taos in 1843. They were married for 25 years. Josefa died in April, 1868 – Kit died 30 days later. History in Taos. Step into the 1800s – visit the Kit Carson Home and Museum where history lives!

Visit the Kit Carson Home Visit our website for a list and Museum, in of Taos, upcoming summer events. where history still lives. www.kitcarsonmuseum.org

Our book offersbook the best Look forshop the new about selection of history books Josefa Carson, Josefa: Thein Taos.

Lifetime of Maria Josefa Jaramillo Carson 1828-1868, Museum Open 10 – available 5 daily soon Carson Road, Taos in113 theKit museum’ s giftshop. 575-758-4945

KIT CARSON HOME AND MUSEUM 113 KIT CARSON ROAD, TAOS 575-758-4945 • WWW.KITCARSONMUSEUM.ORG

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Step into the 1800s– visit the Kit Carson Home and Museum where history lives!

“Intriguing and informative - it changed my thinking.” Ted, from Canada

Visit Stepour intowebsite the 1800s – visit the for a list Kit Carson of Home and Museum summer events. where history lives!

kitcarsonmuseum.org

Visit our website for a list of Our bookshop offers the upcoming summer events. best selection of history www.kitcarsonmuseum.org books in Taos. Our book shop offers the best selection of history books in Taos. Museum Open 10 – 5 daily 113 Kit Carson Road, Taos 575-758-4945 Step into the 1800s – visit the MUSEUM OPEN 10–5 DAILY Kit Carson Home and Museum 113 KIT CARSON RD, TAOS where history lives! 575-758-4945 • WWW.KITCARSONMUSEUM.ORG Visit our website for a list of upcoming summer events. www.kitcarsonmuseum.org Our book shop offers the best selection of history books in Taos.

La Tierra Mineral Gallery

124-K Bent Street, Taos, NM 87571 Latierra1111.com â&#x20AC;˘ 575.758.0101 www.latierragallery.com

discovertaos.com /// Summer/Fall 2017

Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina

FACES OF TAOS NAME Charles Collins

OCCUPATION Painter and sculptor

Charles Collins is the mostawarded artist in the history of the Taos Fall Arts Festival and is the only sculptor to win the festival’s “Best of Show” honor; former New Mexico Gov. Gary Johnson proclaimed Aug. 6 as Charles Collins Day in New Mexico ad infinitum; and Taos’ Millicent Rogers Museum recognized him as a Taos Master. One of the ongoing themes in his work is the interconnectedness among all peoples: “We all have so

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much in common. And the Red Willow people (of Taos Pueblo) give so much to us.” Native Americans are often subjects in his work. “There’s something about them and their respect for the land, and so many things that our society today doesn’t even think about,” he expressed. Many people come into his gallery and comment that they see “the power of love” in his pieces. Much of the inspiration for his work comes from dreams and things he reads, like ancient teachings

of Christ. Unlike a lot of artists, Collins can often be found in his gallery ready to talk about any and all of his work with everyone who enters. Is that due to choice or a deemed necessity? “It’s my choice, but I think people really like to meet the artist. Some artists in New York don’t even go to their openings.” The Charles Collins Gallery celebrates its 40th anniversary in Taos on Aug. 6, on Charles Collins Day.

Gov. Johnson once told Collins that he sees the Taos artist as a “A bright light shining for everyone.” “That just blew me away,” Collins shared. “I’m still trying to do that.” If he wasn’t an artist, he would be an architect, which he gladly admitted is still artistic. Charles Collins Gallery is located in McCarthy Plaza adjacent to Taos Plaza. (575) 758-2309, charlescollinsgallery.com

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DISCOVER DIVERSÍON

Katharine Egli

Wired Coffee Cyber Cafe in Taos is one of a number of places to get online.

HOOK UP WHERE TO GET WI-FI WHILE OUT AND ABOUT TAOS/RANCHOS DE TAOS

5 Star Burgers 1032 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (575) 758-8484 Bent Street Deli & Café 120 Bent St. (575) 758-5787 The Burger Stand at Taos Ale House 401 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (575) 758-5522 Caffe Tazza 122 Kit Carson Rd. (575) 758-8706 Coffee Apothecary 616 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (575) 779-8706 Coffee Cats 124 Bent St., John Dunn Shops (575) 758-0606 The Coffee Spot 900 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (575) 758-8556 Doc Martin’s Restaurant and the Adobe Bar at the 70

Historic Taos Inn 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (575) 758-2233 Earlene’s Public House Café 1014 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (575) 758-2007 Elevation Coffee 1110 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (575) 758-3068 Farmhouse Café and Bakery 1405 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (575) 758-5683 Historic Taos Plaza Free outside connection KOKO Coffee/Deli/ Carry-out 1033 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (575) 758-9448 KTAOS Solar Center 9 State Road 150 (575) 758-5826 McDonald’s 200 Paseo del Pueblo Sur

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(575) 758-9762 Noula’s Coffee Shop 108 S. Plaza (Taos Plaza) (575) 758-2211 Parcht Bottleshop & Bites 103 E. Plaza (Taos Plaza) (575) 758-1994 Station Café 3 one 6 316 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (575) 737-0316 Taos Public Library 402 Camino de la Placita (505) 758-5663 Taos Java 1006 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (575) 751-9405 Taos Valley RV Park 120 Este Es Rd. (505) 758-4469 Taos Visitor Center 1139 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (575) 758-3873 Trading Post Café 4179 State Highway 68, Ranchos de Taos (575) 758-5089

Wired Coffee Cyber Cafe 705 Felicidad Lane (505) 751-9473

ANGEL FIRE

Angel Fire Public Library 11 S. Angel Fire Road (575) 377-6755 Angel Fired Pizza 3375 Mountain View Blvd. (575) 377-2774 The Bakery & Café at Angel Fire 3420 Mountain View Blvd. (575) 377-3992 The Bump Coffee 3375 Mountain View Blvd. (505) 603-0525 Enchanted Circle Brewing 20 Sage Lane (505) 507-8687 H2 Uptown 48 N. Angel Fire Rd. (575) 377-1200 Hail’s Holy Smoked BBQ & More 3400 Mountain View Blvd.

(575) 377-9938 Om Asian Kitchen 3453 Mountain View Blvd. (575) 322-2015 Zebs Restaurant & Bar 3431 Mountain View Blvd. (575) 377-6358

RED RIVER Capo’s Corner 110 Pioneer Rd. (575) 754-6297 Lift House Bar & Grill 200 S. Pioneer St.. (575) 770-5679 Red River Public Library 702 E. Main St. (575) 754-6564 Shotgun Willie’s Café 403 W. Main St. (575) 754-6505 Texas Reds Steak House and Motherlode Saloon 406 E. Main St. (575) 754-6280

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varnish, on the surface of the rock to reveal a starkly lighter layer beneath. Over time, as the iron and manganese of basalt react with air and water, the black varnish returns and the glyphs blend evermore flawlessly back into the environment. The Río Grande-style of glyphs began to appear when Pueblo people settled the area. Their agricultural lifestyle translated to symbols of corn and cloud terraces, sunlight and rainbows, to name but a few examples. Of course, with different groups living alongside each other for centuries, Dicks said the line between the petroglyph styles of huntergatherers and settled people is anything but black and white. From the the late 1600s onward, the Comanches traded, raided and fought their way to become a North American empire that stretched from southern Canada to northern Mexico. Oral histories and the colonial written record even tell of the Comanches in Taos. But archeologists couldn’t reconcile that history. The Comanches, it had seemed, left no physical record of their Northern New Mexican sojourns. Just a few years ago, Columbia University anthropologist Severin Fowles and a group of students took a little extra time to really look at certain “scratches” on the rocks along Vista Verde. They are faint, single lines that most people assumed were graffiti. Meticulously recording each line and running them through computer programs, they found depictions of shields, parfleches (buffalo-hide bags), and scenes of skirmishes, horses and teepees.

Fowles consulted with the Jicarilla Apache, Utes and Comanches, three tribes who were known to visit Taos in the early 19th century. Through long conversations and sharing photos and sketches back and forth they realized they’d found something huge in the archaeological record — actual evidence of the Comanches’ time in Taos. Horses weren’t widely found or used in Native American communities until after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680-1692, but they are found aplenty in the steppes of the Gorge. There are depictions of idly grazing herds and mounted warriors in battle. But one image is missing from the glyphs — guns. Guns weren’t widespread among tribes until the middle of the 18th century. Once they were, though, guns showed up everywhere in the rock art, especially that of the Plains. Those two clues, corroborated against historical evidence, suggest the Comanches likely made their camps and their rock art in the Taos Gorge during a brief 50 years around the turn of the 18th century. Like other Plains groups, the Comanches were used to making their rock art in soft limestone, where a simple line would show in stark relief. But that technique on Taos’ black basalt made for far less visible glyphs. But why weren’t those glyphs noticed, let alone understood, for so long? Oftentimes, you can’t see something if you don’t already know it’s there. Such was the case for the Comanche glyphs, scattered alongside the pecked glyphs of the Río Grande. Of course, Comanche, Pueblo and Spanish people weren’t the only ones who left parts of their

world traced into the basalt of the Taos Gorge. Hippies, drawn to Taos in the 1960s, left plenty of their own. And along Vista Verde, not but a few feet away from dozens of other hundred-year-old glyphs, someone left a more recent carving of a pickup truck and a cell phone. But the rock art of Taos is endangered. Dicks talked of professionals who go out into the night with diamond saws and loot the glyphs, a trade that’s highly illegal and can easily lay waste to these outdoor museums already facing run-of-the-mill graffiti, defacement and the steady wear of time and battering of elements. As with any gem on public lands, it’s possible to love them to death. The magic place that is the Río Grande Gorge is just one of the reasons the area was set aside as the 242,500-acre Río Grande del Norte National Monument in 2013 by President Obama. “These are fragile environments, archaeologically as well as ecologicatlly. We want people to enjoy it, but we have to preserve and protect the landscape,” Dicks said. In 500 years, the Monument itself will be part of the archeological record. What will it say, he wonders, of the people of Taos and the United States that a ribbon of the Río Grande — and its petroglyphs, those enduring testaments of the fluid borders of Taos — was set aside to be enjoyed, studied and protected for future generations? For more information about hiking La Vista Verde Trail in the Río Grande del Norte National Monument, which contains petroglyphs, see page 130.

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DISCOVER DIVERSÍON

Tina Larkin

A perfect place to take the kids in Taos is Twirl.

KID STUFF FOR YOUR LITTLE ONES Adult itineraries like shopping and walking tours can make for a long day for your little one. Fortunately, there are children-friendly activities and places for your kids and the kid still inside you.

TWIRL

With a free community playground and playroom, summer camps and special events, the play and discovery space that is Twirl is sure to put a smile on your child’s face. Twirl — a non-profit corporation — is synonymous with inspiration and fun through play installations and interactive exhibits. Twirl is open daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 225 Camino de la Placita (just off Taos Plaza), twirltaos.org, (575) 751-1402

THE FIRE PLAYCE

Another creative outlet in Taos is the paint-yourown pottery studio called The Fire Playce. Walk in, let your little one choose 72

from a large selection of unpainted bisque ceramic pieces, have them pick up a brush and watch the colors fly. After being covered with a non-toxic, food-safe glaze, each piece is kiln fired, ready to be picked up in a few days or they will ship it to you. Acrylic paints are also available so a piece can be painted and taken with you the same day. Prices range from $5 to $80. 308C Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, thefireplayce.com, (575) 751-7250

SOLAR CINEMA

KTAOS’ Family Friendly Fridays, held in the pavilion at the local solar-powered radio station, featuring the screening of an all-ages movie beginning at 6 p.m. Doors open at 3 p.m. with Happy Hour for the adults. Bring pillows, sleeping bags, snugglies — anything for comfort. Available food includes a fish fry, other menu items and a kids’ menu. No

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admission fee. The Solar Center is located on the road to the Ski Valley at 9 State Road 150. KTAOS Solar Center, Taos, ktaos.com, (575) 7585826

CUMBRES & TOLTEC SCENIC RAILROAD

The bellowing black smoke and the distinctive chug-chug sound signal that the longest and highest narrow gauge steam railroad in the country is departing the station. Train lovers of all ages love to climb aboard the train cars pulled by the historic steam locomotives of the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. Voted “Best Train Ride in America” in USA Today’s Readers’ Choice 2016, the trains run from May 27 through Oct. 22. Trips begin in Chama, two hours north of Taos with stops in Antonito, Colorado, or Osier, Colorado, depending on the route you choose.

Passengers ride this National Historic Landmark journey along a track laid in 1880. Enjoy the amazing scenery of the Río Grande, Carson National Forest, Cumbres Pass and Toltec Gorge. Halfday fares begin at $95 for adults and $49 for children. Fares vary depending on the trip and seating preference. 500 Terrace Ave., Chama, New Mexico, cumbrestoltec. com, 1-800-286-2737

COOL SUMMER NIGHTS IN ANGEL FIRE

Putting the cool back into summer, from June 16-Sept. 1, the familyfriendly Cool Summer Nights Concert Series at Frontier Park in the heart of Angel Fire is a free night of live music from local and regional acts featuring rock, bluegrass, Americana and jazz. There is also a Kids’ Zone with giant Jenga, cornhole, face painting and games. Bring your own lawn chairs and blankets. Parking

is free. Concerts run from 5-7:30 p.m. at Frontier Park. angelfirecoolsummer. com, angelfireresort.com

TREASURE HUNT

Pick up clues at the front desk, search, win a prize during museum hours, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Museum will be closed July 4. Taos Art Museum at Fechin House, 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, taosartmuseum.org, (575) 7582690, ext. 101.

“FAMILY GUIDES”

Explore The Harwood Museum of Art’s “Family Guides.” The guides offer activities to deepen exploration of the museum and art viewing as a family activity. Free with adult admission to the museum. Children and teens are always free. The Harwood Museum of Art, 238 Ledoux St., Taos, harwoodmuseum.org, (575) 758-9826 —Compiled by Scott Gerdes

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DISCOVER DIVERSÍON

Katharine Egli

A night of dancing to the music at Taos Mesa Brewing.

DANCE TO THE MUSIC A GAMUT OF NIGHTLIFE For a small, rural town, Taos has a gamut of nightlife — dance floors included. The first order of business when pulling into town is to get a copy of The Taos News. Or read it online at taosnews.com. The Taos News comes out every Thursday and has its own entertainment and arts section called Tempo. In the back pages of Tempo, you will find a 74

comprehensive, day-by-day listing of the events and entertainment happening around town for the upcoming week. There is music for just about every toe-tapper from country to mariachi to rock. And keep an eye out for a nationally known performer — you never know when someone famous might take a Taos stage for an impromptu jam session such as Smashing

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Pumpkins frontman Billy Corgan, who surprised and delighted the crowd at The Historic Taos Inn last February. Now, as for dancing, while it doesn’t have the largest dance floor, The Alley Cantina is a local, late-night hot spot known for its lively and social atmosphere. Live music provided by the best of Taos and touring bands goes on

nearly every night. The music typically starts between 9 and 10 p.m. The Alley normally has a cover charge. Housed in what is thought to be the oldest building in Taos, The Alley is just steps from Historic Taos Plaza. Check the schedule online at alleycantina.com or call (575) 758-2121. Also in the heart of town, during the summer is “Taos Plaza Live” every

Thursday from 6 to 8 p.m. The gazebo on the Historic Taos Plaza hosts live acts as locals take off their shoes and enjoy some free fun. Opening night is May 25 and continues through Aug. 31. Note that there will be no Taos Plaza Live on July 20 due to the Fiestas de Taos celebration. For more information, check online at taoschamber.com or call Continues on 76

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Tina Larkin

No matter what your favorite type of music is, there’s a place in Taos to get your groove on.

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(575) 751-8800. North of town is the KTAOS Solar Center, right off the “Old Blinking Light” intersection on State Highway 150 on the way to Taos Ski Valley; just look for the solar panels. One of the most unique places in Taos, KTAOS is home to two radio stations: award-winning KTAOS Solar Radio 101.9 and LUNA 103.7. On site is a 400-person capacity yearround live music venue that showcases world-class 76

live music, including past performances from Los Lonely Boys and Angelique Kidjou, as well as community events. The Solar Center boasts the largest dance floor in Northern New Mexico. Outside, the huge lawn and pavilion provide some of the area’s best views of Taos Mountain (aka Pueblo Peak). For the summer lineup, visit ktao.com for details or call (575) 758-5826. Also on the north end of town on the way to the Río Grande Gorge on

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ABC Mesa Road off U.S. Highway 64 is Taos Mesa Brewing (TMB), also known as “the mothership.” Local and national performers grace the indoor and two outdoor stages — including an amphitheater — with plenty of room to shake, rattle and roll most nights of the week. True to its name, TMB brews its own beer. TMB takes pride in their indoor “acoustic purity.” TMB’s web site at taosmesabrewing.com will give you the summer schedule lowdown. You

can also call them at (575) 758-1900. On the south side of town on the main drag at 1508 Paseo del Pueblo Sur is the Cantina at the Sagebrush Inn. At this Taos mainstay, you can dance to live music at least four nights a week. On any given night, let your body move to rock, country, oldies, swing, blues, acoustic and Spanish music. Check the dates and performers online at sagebrushinn.com or call (575) 758-2254. Directly across the road

from the historic Ranchos Church sits the legendary Old Martina’s Hall, 4140 U.S. Highway 68. The newly restored historic dance hall, complete with state-of-the-art sound equipment, accommodates many a dancer from country two-steppers to tango lovers. Live music is typically scheduled every Friday and Saturday night and may have a $10 cover charge. Check online at oldmartinashall.com or call (575) 758-3003.

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Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina

FACES OF TAOS NAME Kaiiba Mountain

OCCUPATION Sculptor/painter/beadworker/ tattoo artist/fire twirler/student

Kaiiba Mountain admits she’s not the typical-looking grandma. The body and face tattoos were created by her own hand — the design on her forehead symbolizes staying on your own path and over her eyes, the ink dots remind her to keep her sixth sense strong and clear. “Yes, I like the nontraditional tattoo,” she admited with a smile. “I’m honorable and

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responsible — I just look weird.” Mountain first came to Taos 25 years ago with a close friend. It was love at first sight. She moved here nine years ago. “It seemed the space opened up very easily,” she shared. “Good friends here were pulling me.” The multi-faceted artist of Ojibwe Indian decent —

‘IT’S FUN AND THE ARTS KEEP ME SANE. IT’S SATISFYING AND HEALING.’ — MOUNTAIN

who is also a fire twirler, but “can’t do a cartwheel” — is raising her two young grandchildren while taking liberal arts classes, with

an emphasis on art, at the University of New MexicoTaos. Her goal is to work as an art therapist helping troubled children and/or teens. She can see herself teaching art at a local school. Mountain has a way with kids — they are drawn to her. And as for art, she has been drawn to it since childhood. “It’s fun and the arts keep me sane. It’s satisfying and healing.”

EMBUDO D E N TA L C E N T E R

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DISCOVER DIVERSÍON

‘TOI, TOI, TOI’ TAOS OPERA INSTITUTE FESTIVAL CELEBRATES 10TH ANNIVERSARY By Kandace Nachtrab This year marks the Taos Opera Institute’s (TOI) 10th year presenting an opera festival by the same name. During June, the TOI Festival features 17 free classical music performances open to the public in Taos County and Santa Fe, New Mexico, with two performance groups: the TOI Singers and the Cantos de Taos Quartet. Both groups are part of a month-long, intensive training program that helps aspiring undergraduates and graduates studying voice to prepare for performance, production and educational careers in opera. TOI participants are chosen through rigorous auditions and come from all parts of the country. TOI Singers includes all 28 of the institute’s participants. Performances feature solos by each participant in one of five languages (French, German, Italian, Russian or English). The

concerts, approximately two hours in length, will be held at two private homes, St. James Episcopal Church in Taos, Holy Trinity Church in Arroyo Seco and a performance at the Historic Taos Plaza. The Cantos de Taos is a quartet consisting of TOI graduates and more established artists. This year, the Cantos features Jillian Cox, soprano and TOI graduate; Britt Brown, mezzo soprano; Eric Barry, tenor, former Cantos and TOI instructor; and Andrew Craig Brown, bass-baritone returning Cantos singer from 2016. All four hold advanced degrees in music from distinguished universities and have enjoyed featured roles in opera productions nationally and internationally. The Cantos de Taos serve as ambassadors for the Taos Opera Institute, and perform in numerous venues in Taos including Pizaños Italian restaurant,

David Anthony Fine Art Gallery, Taos Art Museum at Fechin House, Sabroso Restaurant and Bar in Arroyo Seco, Taos Retirement Village, Bella’s Mexican Grill and The Historic Taos Inn. In Santa Fe, on June 22, the group will perform at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi and the Center for Contemporary Art. Cantos de Taos performances are one hour in length and are also free and open to the public. The festival kicks off on June 8 at 7 p.m., with a Cantos de Taos performance on the patio of Pizaños and ends with the 10th Annual TOI Gala and Reception on July 1, 7 p.m. at The Taos Center for the Arts (TCA) located at 133 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. Tickets for the gala may be purchased by calling the TCA office at (575) 758-2052, online at tcataos. org, or on the night of the performance. The gala showcases the achievements

of both the TOI singers and Cantos de Taos quartet, and is a fundraising event with a ticket price of $25. A dessert reception is held during intermission. A full schedule of events and locations is available at TaosOI.org. For more information, call (575) 7406431 or email TaosOIinfo@ gmail.com.

ABOUT TAOS OPERA INSTITUTE

TOI was established by Mary Jane Johnson and Linda Poetschke in 2007 as a four-week comprehensive program designed to bridge the gap between academia and apprenticeships for emerging vocal artists. Johnson’s international performing career included a longtime relationship with

the Santa Fe Opera. She and Poetschke, a recognized college vocal educator and performer, created TOI’s philosophy that focuses on integrating and improving technique, physical well-being and artistry. Twenty-eight outstanding opera singers from across the country are chosen each year to participate in the institute, which is housed at the Taos Ski Valley. In addition to technical training, students receive physical conditioning, individual coaching and numerous opportunities for performance. The acronym for Taos Opera Institute (TOI), the expression “toi, toi, toi,” is the operatic equivalent of the theater’s “break a leg” and is derived from the German language.

Katharine Egli

Soprano Julia Dwyer performs a piece from Gounod’s “Romeo and Juliet” to a crowd gathered at St. James Episcopal Church in Taos to kick off the 2015 Taos Opera Institute Festival.

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MIXIN’ IT UP MUSIC ON THE MESA 2017

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By Ariana Kramer Music on the Mesa is a family-friendly music festival featuring topnotch entertainment in the Americana, bluegrass, progressive folk and related genres. Held at Taos Mesa Brewing’s Mothership, the venue boasts an indoor stage as well as two outdoor stages in a spectacular setting with views of the Sangre de Cristo mountains. This year’s festival highlights include Railroad Earth, Robert Randolph and the Family Band, Elephant Revival, Rising Appalachia, Grace Askew and more. Walking Rain Productions, Like A Boss and Roots & Wires are presenting this year’s Music on the Mesa Festival. The three-day music fest takes place Friday, June 2 through Sunday, June 4, at the Taos Mesa Brewing Mothership, 20 ABC Mesa Road, off of U.S. Highway 64, (575) 758-1900. Tickets are available through taosmusiconthemesa.com. Prices are $125 for all three days; $50 for Friday; $55 for Saturday and $60 for Sunday. Children 12 and under are half price at the door; and ages under two are free. Onsite camping is available for $20 per person or $40 per RV for the entire weekend. In the past, Music on the Mesa has featured straight-up Americana artists. “We’ve mixed it up a bit this year, says Walking Rain’s Stephen Plyler. “Our followers are still going to love what they hear,” he adds. “We have a lot of standard Americana artists, but are mixing in progressive folk and bluegrass.” Here is a sampling of some of the bands on the Music on the Mesa roster: Vocalist, songwriter and renowned pedal steel guitarist, Robert Randolph grew up in a church environment. He heard no secular music

throughout his childhood and teenage years. But, he and his family reveled in the gospel tradition of sacred steel, playing their hearts out in the House of God Church in Orange, New Jersey. When he discovered rock, funk, soul, jazz and the jam band scene as a young man, Randolph’s music underwent a transformation as he let himself be influenced by secular genres. “Got Soul,” Randolph’s label debut with Sony Masterworks, is admired by Eric Clapton, Carlos Santana and Derek Trucks. Randolph has played with each of these great musicians. Also, hailing from New Jersey is Railroad Earth, headed up by songwriter Todd Schaeffer. The name of the band comes from a Jack Kerouac short story, and their Americana roots music pulls in everything from bluegrass and rock and roll to jazz and Celtic influences. Railroad Earth is known for their live improvisational skills, so expect some serious jam band fun. Elephant Revival blends gypsy, Celtic, Americana and folk music for a sound that brings crowds flocking. The five-piece band from Nederland, Colorado, has received praise from National Public Radio for their “intuitive rhythms augmented with unexpected hand claps; expansive acoustic instruments with tight, haunting vocals; gut-level intuition; Celtic dancing grooves; and plenty of progressive roots music.” The New York Times says, “If this [Elephant Continues on 86

Rick Romancito

The highly popular Music on the Mesa Festival will be back the first weekend in June.

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86 Continues from 85

Courtesy Red Light Management

Robert Randolph of the Robert Randolph and the Family Band (American funk and soul) is set to play at this year's third annual Music on the Mesa at Taos Mesa Brewing.

Revival] doesn’t make you smile, something is wrong with you.” Taoseña Lucy Melamed saw the band at last year’s festival and said of the experience, “Elephant Revival was awesome. They were really good — hypnotic and powerful. It was really a special show.” Sisters Chloe and Leah Smith form the core of Rising Appalachia. The Smith sisters are multi-instrumentalists who integrate fiddles, banjos, bodhran, spoken word and harmonic vocals into their music. They are backed by drums, kalimbas, congas, didjeridoo, tabla, spoons, washboard and more. Grounded in Appalachian folk and roots music, their sound also wraps itself around soul, world, gospel, jazz and hip-hop. The band has been voted “Atlanta’s Best Folk Act” by Creative Loafing, and has toured throughout Europe, the Caribbean,

SUMMER CONCERT SERIES AND FESTIVALS (IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER) TAOS PLAZA LIVE (MAY 25-AUG. 31)

Fun, free, family entertainment every Thursday night on Historic Taos Plaza with local favorite bands playing everything from rock and roll to blues to traditional Northern New Mexican Spanish music. Bring your chairs, blanket and picnic. There is no Taos Plaza Live on July 20, enjoy Fiestas de Taos. taosplazalive.com

BLUES, BREWS AND BIKES (JUNE 10-11)

Freedom in Music presents the fourth annual Blues, Brews and Bikes Fest at the Taos Mesa Brewing Mothership. Featured musicians Indigenous, Justin Johnson, Magic Dick and Shun Ng, The High Desert Blues Band, Lightning Hall and the Taos Youth Music School Garage Band. The festival is a benefit for a program that brings guitars and music to incarcerated youth. taosmesabrewing.com, 86

thefreedominmusicproject.com

TAOS SCHOOL OF MUSIC (JUNE 18-AUG. 6)

The Taos School of Music brings three renowned String Quartets (the Borromeo, Shanghai and Brentano) along with pianists Robert McDonald and Thomas Sauer as faculty. Student and faculty performances are held at the Taos Community Auditorium and Taos Ski Valley’s Hotel St. Bernard. taosschoolofmusic.com

TOWN OF TAOS FOURTH OF JULY CONCERT (JULY 4)

The Town of Taos has booked Latin rock sensation Ozomatli to perform at Kit Carson Park in downtown Taos on July 4. Ozomatli plays Latin, hip hop and rock and roll, with salsa, jazz, funk, reggae and rap influences. Formed in 1995 in Los Angeles, the six-piece band is known for their phenomenal music as well as their social commentary.

Summer/Fall 2017 /// discovertaos.com

DWIGHT YOAKAM AND THE MAVERICKS (JULY 29)

Country music superstar Dwight Yoakam and his band, The Mavericks, will perform at 7 p.m., at Kit Carson Park in Taos. Yoakam has sold more than 25 million albums worldwide, and is a 21time nominated, multiple GRAMMY Award winner. He also received the Artist of the Year award at the 2013 Americana Music Honors Awards ceremony. Gates open at 5:30 p.m. The show starts at 7 p.m. Tickets are $52 per adult; $9 for children 12 and under. Tickets may be purchased online at holdmyticket.com or ampconcerts.org.

MUSIC FROM ANGEL FIRE (AUG. 18-SEPT. 3)

Kenji Bunch is Composer-in-Residence for the Music from Angel Fire’s 2017 season. The festival celebrates its 34th season of world-class concerts

Central America, India and the United States. Wayne “The Train” Hancock has been compared to Hank Williams, Sr., by none other than Hank Williams, III, who said, “The only other guy who has more Hank Williams in him than me is Wayne ‘The Train’ Hancock. ... Very few people can be real purists, but Wayne is a purist all the way.” Inspired by Hank Williams, Bob Wills and His Texas Playboys, and the big band era, Hancock plays upbeat honky-tonk. Decorated with a tattoo that says, “Play ‘til you Die,” Hancock aims to have a good time, and he takes his audience with him. The dynamic singer Grace Askew is a Music on the Mesa regular — she loves Taos, and Taos loves her. She calls her style “bluntry” (blues and country) and howls, squeals and belts out her songs. “Killer slide guitar player with a sultry swagger,” reviewed Los Angeles Maga-

zine; “Astoundingly defiant,” wrote SPIN. Music on the Mesa is making a name for itself as a three-day festival of highquality music from start to finish. The producers have previously heard each of the acts live and in person, so they know they are not only gifted musicians, but also entertaining performers. “Our main commitment is that the entire day you’re going to hear great music,” says Plyler. “If you’re there during the day you’re going to hear some of the best acts you’ll ever hear. And, if you’re there for the headliners, you will hear some of the best music you’ll ever hear.” If you want to go to this year’s Music on the Mesa, don’t wait on buying tickets. Plyler says tickets are selling at a faster clip than last year. There’s a chance they might sell out. For more information, visit taosmusiconthemesa.com.

and educational events throughout northern New Mexico. Internationally renowned violinist Ida Kavafian, Artistic Director since 1985, invites our nation’s finest musicians, students and composers to perform at concerts held in Taos, Raton, Angel Fire and Las Vegas. Music from Angel Fire performances are heard on national radio stations and online through American Public Media’s “Performance Today.” musicfromangelfire.org

room atmosphere. There is a side dance floor all three days, and on the last night the main floor clears for a big barn dance like none other. michaelhearne.com/ bigbarndance

MICHAEL HEARNE’S BIG BARN DANCE MUSIC FESTIVAL (SEPT. 7-9)

Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance Music Festival is an annual tradition for music lovers and dancers from across the southwestern United States and beyond. Award-winning musician Michael Hearne invites some of the best songwriters in the music business to perform their original music in a listening

RED RIVER’S BLUEGRASS AND OLD TIME MUSIC FESTIVAL (SEPT. 14-17) Southwest Pickers and Red River Bluegrass present the 43rd annual Bluegrass and Old Time Music Festival this year. The featured bluegrass headliner will be the Grammy-nominated Blue Highway. This year’s old-time headliner will be Soda Rock Ramblers. southwestpickers.org

RED RIVER FOLK MUSIC FESTIVAL (SEPT. 21-24)

The lineup for this third annual festival includes well-known Americana, country, bluegrass and folk performers held in Red River’s stunning alpine setting. For more details on the schedule and venues, go online to redriverfolk.com.

discovertaos.com /// Summer/Fall 2017

Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina

FACES OF TAOS NAME Tracee Gonzales OCCUPATION The Taos News street vendor

For the past few years, the fireplug known as Tracee Gonzales has been selling copies of The Taos News to regulars and visitors alike on the east side of State Roads 150 and 522 come rain or shine. And that hasn’t always been a walk in the park. “I do enjoy being a vendor,” she said. “It’s about the people. I’m not going to say it’s not hard in the rain or snow.” With a steady stream of “Good morning, God bless you,” to everyone every Thursday — whether they buy a paper or not — she claims her spot with pride and gives others a nice way

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to start their day.

me during that time.”

to fish.

Some people tell her how much they needed to hear her greeting and, honestly, she’s surprised how many people take her comment as a positive energy that fills their day. Her infectious grin has a way with people, too.

Maybe even more important to her than her job selling newspapers are birds. All birds. Any size. Any colors. Because she likes to feed birds in her yard, and with the help of a New Mexico bird book, she has become quite the avid bird watcher and photographer.

Before going to work for The Taos News, Gonzales was a hostess and “jack of all trades” for 15 years at the former Oglevie’s restaurant at Taos Plaza.

“This one guy never buys a paper, but always asks to see my ‘pearly, white smile.’” And they often tell her they don’t want her to stop selling. A broken ankle a couple of years ago almost made that a reality. “I thought maybe I was done, but nope,” she shared. “A friend covered for

“I just stand at my kitchen window and take pictures with a point-and-shoot camera,” she smiled. “I love how so many species will feed together in my yard.” The birds apparently like her, too. European starlings once made a nest at her front door. Gonzales also loves

After a moment of contemplation, she said she isn’t really sure of what she’d like to do if not a vendor. Many of her friends love her bird photographs and think she should take classes to hone that skill. But Gonzales shook her head from side to side: “I think taking a photography course might take the fun out of it.”

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build on our experience. we do. discovertaos.com /// Summer/Fall 2017

92 DISCOVER DELICIOSO

Tina Larkin

Eske’s Brew Pub and Eatery

Ewan McClain

The Burger Stand at Taos Ale House

Drinking itEnchanted all inCircle brewpubs to wet your whistle

ven though it sounds like a miniature beer, a microbrew is actually created in a small, independently owned commercial brewery. U.S. microbreweries produce no more than 15,000 barrels of beer per year. Brewed and distributed on a regional basis, these beverages are also known as craft beers. The emphasis of a craft beer is the quality, flavor and brewing process of the product rather than its mass production. These beers are also called real ale or cask ale. Similarly, a brewpub is typically a bar/ restaurant that sells beer produced in limited quantities right on the premises. There are plenty of excellent choices of brewpubs adding to Northern New Mexico’s cool factor.

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Blue Heron Brewing

In the scenic, rural confines of Embudo, New Mexico, 20 minutes south of Taos along State Road 68, familyowned Blue Heron Brewing Company offers a tasting room where beer lovers can enjoy a pint or even a growler of such offerings as handcrafted pilsners, lagers, porters, IPAs, seasonal ales and a number of other ales such as the Magpie Rye. With vintner Joshua Johnson, Blue Heron also produces local wine, which is available at the tasting room. The brewery is open Sunday through Monday from noon to 6 p.m.; on Wednesday and Thursday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; and on Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Blue Heron is closed on Tuesdays. Daily happy hour runs from 5 to 6 p.m. and on Saturdays from 5 to 7 p.m. (505) 579-9188, blueheronbrews.com

The drafts at Taos Mesa Brewing The Burger Stand at Taos Ale House

The Burger Stand got its start in an Irish pub kitchen in Lawrence, Kansas, in February 2009, and later expanded to Topeka, Kansas, and came to Taos in April 2014, bringing with it a beer selection that includes handcrafted ales brewed in house. True to its name, the Burger Stand is also known for its eclectic, gourmet burgers, specialty “Hawt Doggz” and a number of vegetarian options. The brewpub is open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; happy hour is offered Monday through Friday from 2-6 p.m. The Burger Stand at Taos Ale House is located at 401 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. (575) 758-5522, taosburgersandbeer.com Comanche Creek Brewing

Comanche Creek Brewing Company is a small family-owned microbrewery located in the Sangre de Cristo mountains of Northern New Mexico at an elevation of 8,400 feet, at 225 Comanche Creek Road in Eagle Nest along the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway. Comanche Creek Brewing Company offers its take on a number of beer styles such as the Homestead Amber Ale produced in the traditional German old style, the American IPA Scully Mountain and local favorite, the malt-rich, Marzen-style Oktoberfest brew. At present, Comanche Creek

has four taps at the tasting patio with rotating beers. They also bottle Homestead Amber Ale, which can be found at local restaurants. Since there are just four taps at the brewery tasting room, they are always rotating their beers throughout the year. (575) 575-2337, comanchecreekbrewingco.com Enchanted Circle Brewing

Angel Fire’s beer masters produce a rotating selection including the Hells Bells Helles Lager, German Kolch, Plum Sour and the Wheeler Peak Pale Ale to name a few. ECB features six flagship brews and several seasonal offerings. Enchanted Circle Brewing (ECB) has a 75-seat tasting room. The restaurant offers a lunch and dinner menu. ECB is located at 20 Sage Lane in Angel Fire. Open Monday through Friday and Sunday 3-9 p.m.; noon-9 p.m. on Saturday. (505) 216-5973 or (505) 507-8687, facebook.com/pg/Enchanted-CircleBrewing-155087768180589/ Eske’s Brew Pub and Eatery

A staple hangout and the original brewpub in Taos, Eske’s produces small-batch beers on draught from Scottish ales to the extra special, extra bitter ESB. The almost 100-year-old brewery and mesa-roofed adobe home offers a comfortable, casual atmosphere, plus there’s outdoor seating in the beer garden and a covered porch

Tina Larkin

Blue Heron Brewing Company in Embudo, New Mexico.

(TMB) features anywhere from >>> 9 to 12 distinctly different beers draught at all times, including The emphasis on specialty and seasonal brews. Usof a craft ing the initial 7 bbl system, ample tanks and cold storage, TMB has beer is the been consistently producing high beer since its opening quality, flavor quality in the summer of 2012. TMB’s and brewing sudsy creations are produced in all-grain infusion mash brew process of the anhouse on site. With excellent live product rather music and a great menu, TMB has solidified itself as one of than its mass quickly Taos’ hippest places. It was named one of “America’s Coolest Brewerproduction. ies” by Travel & Leisure Magazine.

and patio. Eske’s is also known for its pub fare, live music and “local color.” Located at 106 Des Georges Lane just steps from Historic Taos Plaza, Eske’s is open Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. (serving food until 9 p.m.); Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from noon-9:30 p.m. (serving food until 9 p.m.); and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (serving food until 9 p.m.). Eske’s is closed on Tuesdays. (575) 758-1517, eskesbrewpub.com Taos Mesa Brewing and Taos Tap Room

Lovingly dubbed “The Mothership” by its owners and housed in an old converted airplane hangar, Taos Mesa Brewing

TMB has a taproom at Taos Ski Valley on Thunderbird Road and is also available at the Martini Tree at the Hotel St. Bernard. TMB beer is exclusively offered at Ojo Caliente Resort and Spa. Just opened last year, TMB’s Taos Tap Room brings its brews to downtown Taos at 201 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, just a stone’s throw from Historic Taos Plaza. Taos Tap Room features 24 craft beers on tap, an eclectic cellar list and wood-fired pizza. TMB is located at 20 ABC Mesa Road, about 11 miles west of Taos off U.S. Highway 64. Both locations cater to the late crowd, noon to 11 p.m. daily. (575) 758-1900, taosmesabrewing. com

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Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina

FACES OF TAOS NAME Jason Rodriguez

TITLE Printmaker, street artist, fine artist, educator, technologist, activist

Truly a Renaissance man, Jason Rodriguez (aka Forge, along with partner Aya Trevino) is taking the Taos art scene to even grander heights. Along with opening his studio and printmaking workspace, 555 Taos, in 2016, the multi-talented artist created ARTAOS: “The ARTAOS mission is to compliment the existing beauty of Taos, New Mexico, by creating community supported art installations and rural art education. We rally for increased exposure for artists, local businesses and

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enhanced art experiences for residents and visitors.” Taos has many successful artists, but exposure for up and comers can be difficult. With that in the forefront of his mind, Rodriguez has set out to create more opportunities for emerging, and even established artists, “to represent themselves to the public.” “There are more unknown artists in Taos than known ones,” he expanded. “If you’re not in a gallery, your work is rarely seen.” Rodriguez’s latest idea is

augmented reality demos with the MAG (mobile art gallery) truck, designed for artists to gain exposure in and away from Taos. He has hosted interactive installations and movies screened on the MAG. He is involved with training Taos students about new technology and art, and invites artists from other parts of the country to come here and share their work with the students. A present goal is to create an outdoor art and mural park in town. And coming soon, arTV, high definition art images from

Taos artists displayed in high traffic areas. Of course, he wants to inspire artists of all levels and disciplines, but he also hopes to prompt the town of Taos “to allow artists to be able to sell their art in public 24/7, 365.” If he wasn’t an artist, Rodriguez would be a “professional stuntman.” 555 Taos is located at 1022 Reed Street (facebook. com/555space). For more information about ARTAOS, go online to artaos.com.

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FACT:$836,000

This is the amount of money Kit Carson Energy paid to Kit Carson Electric in 2015-2017. Kit Carson Energy is a profitable entity. This successful propane diversification continues to give the Enchanted Circle an affordable propane option.

Lawrence Vigil, Propane Manager and Juan Valdez, KCEI Board President deliver a check to Bobby Ortega, KCE Board President and Manuel Medina, KCE Board Secretary

WHY WE STARTED… In October of 2000, subsequent to a request made my its membership, the leadership of Kit Carson Electric Cooperative, Inc. realized there was a need for a propane company in northern New Mexico that could create competition amongst propane companies in the area to assist in lowering prices across the board. The Cooperative created Kit Carson Propane, now known as Kit Carson Energy, Inc. which would eventually come to serve Taos, Rio Arriba, Colfax, and parts of Santa Fe counties.

In January of 2010 Kit Carson Energy, Inc. (KCEI) became a subsidiary of Kit Carson Electric. Since inception, KCEI has become a strong viable company and has been of great benefit to the community. OUR EVOLUTION… Along with the growth of our customers, and successfully helping to level propane prices across our service territory KCEI now has the ability for customers to receive E-Bills and E-Pay and openly displays

daily propane prices outside the building as well as on the website at www.KitCarsonEnergy.com. We have made infrastructural improvements: • Added easy to read signage outside • Added a crosswalk for the safety of our customers and employees • Added a new double-sided bottle dock that better accommodates larger cylinders • Paved and striped our main parking lot

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• Made small office improvements • Continue to maintain the bottle dock at the Cooperative to accommodate RV’s WHERE WE ARE TODAY… Manager, Lawrence Vigil diligently monitors propane prices daily so we can remain one of the lowest priced propane companies in northern New Mexico. We strive every day to maintain a high standard of customer service in all areas of KCEI which includes our in-house staff, drivers, and technicians.

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Tina Larkin

Ah, the green chile cheeseburger — a Taos staple. Shown is the Stray Dog’s take on the local favorite.

Burger bliss T he cheeseburger — an American icon. Many regions of America have their own special additions to our national sandwich such as pineapple, an egg, fancy cheeses and gourmet sauces. Here in New Mexico, what makes our cheeseburgers special is the green chile. In fact, we love our version 102

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of this classic food so much that we even have a designated Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail (a trail map can be found online at newmexico.org). It is such a popular taste that fast-food chains McDonald’s, Sonic and Blake’s Lotaburger offer green chile cheeseburgers in Taos. But if you have the time to really sit and

savor one of these hand-crafted culinary delights, any one of the following Taos-area eateries is sure to please. Then, you’ll understand why the green chile is as essential to our survival as water. 5 Star Burgers

USA Today voted 5 Star Burger as the “Best Burger in New Mexico.” The Green Chile Burger has the added punch of green chile mayo. All burgers are made from scratch using hormone and antibiotic free Angus beef that is fresh ground daily. 1032 Paseo del Pueblo Sur

(575) 758-8484; 5starburgers.com Hours: Sun.-Thu., 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Abe’s Cantina y Cocina

You can’t miss Abe’s, located on the way to Taos Ski Valley on the only main road through the quaint village of Arroyo Seco. A local favorite, family-owned Abe’s serves up a classic green chile burger. 489 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco (575) 776-8516; facebook search Abe’s Cantina y Cocina. Hours: Mon.-Sat., 7 a.m.-9 p.m.

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Taos Ski Valley Realty is now

We are pleased to announce that Taos Ski Valley Realty is now Engel & Völkers Taos Real Estate. In addition to our Taos Ski Valley office, we recently opened a brand new shop at 105 Paseo del Pueblo Norte - just off Taos Plaza.

Founded in 1977, Engel & Völkers is a European-based real estate company that has shops in over 780 locations in 33 countries around the world and employs over 8,000 agents. The firm has been expanding rapidly in North America over the last 10 years initially focusing in second-home markets in beach and ski resorts, and more recently in larger markets such as Atlanta, Austin, Boston, New York City, and San Francisco, to name a few. To date, shops in US ski destinations can be found in Aspen, Bozeman, Eden, Lake Tahoe, Okemo-Woodstock, Park City, Sun Valley, Truckee and Vail. And now in Taos! Please stop by and see us. We would love to see how we can help you achieve your real estate goals. Engel & Völkers Taos Real Estate 105 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte · Taos· NM 87571 · USA· Phone +1-575-776-0600 Text TAOS to 21000 · www.taos.evusa.com © 2017 Engel & Völkers. All rights reserved. Engel & Völkers and its independent franchisees are Equal Opportunity Employers and fully support the principles of the Fair Housing Act. Each property shop is independently owned and operated. All information provided is deemed reliable but is not guaranteed and should be independently verified. If your property is currently represented by a real estate broker, this is not an attempt to solicit your listing.

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>>> Here in New Mexico, what makes our cheeseburgers special is the green chile. Continues from 102 The Alley Cantina

Housed in one of Taos’ oldest structures, The Alley Cantina (simply referred to as “The Alley” by locals) sits in the heart of Historic Taos Plaza and is a happening social spot with live entertainment nightly. Offered up is not your typical bar fare, including a 4-ounce and an 8-ounce green chile cheeseburger. The Alley is often voted a best place for burgers and fries in the annual “Best of Taos” publication. 121 Teresina Lane, Taos, (575) 758-2121; alleycantina.com. Hours: Mon.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-midnight The Chow Cart (Mantes)

Family owned since 1973, the Chow Cart may be light on decor but is heavy on taste. “Mantes,” as locals call it, serves up a traditional Northern New Mexico green chile cheeseburger. Every patty is formed by hand. No time to sit? The Chow Cart has a drive-thru. 402 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, (575) 758-3632; facebook search The Chow Cart (Mantes). Hours: Sat., Mon.-Thu. 6 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fri., 6 a.m.-10 p.m.

The Burger Stand at Taos Ale House

As its name implies, gourmet burgers are the focus. The green chile cheeseburger with Hatch chiles and pepper jack cheese is no regular old bar burger. The Burger Stand’s burgers are made from humanely raised, farm-fed Angus beef. 401 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, (575) 758-5522; taosburgersandbeer.com Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m. The Gorge Bar & Grill

Set in a modern, casual dining atmosphere with a bird’s eye view of Historic Taos Plaza, The Gorge puts its own little twists on the green chile cheeseburger by offering “The ‘Gorgeous’ Burger” and the “Green Chile Cheese Melt” with an 8-ounce patty option. 103 East 104

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Tina Larkin

The Five Star Burger with gorgonzola cheese and applewood smoked bacon topped off with crispy green chile, lettuce and tomato.

Plaza (Taos Plaza), (575) 758-8866; thegorgebarandgrill.com. Hours: Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mary Jane’s Home Cooking

Don’t let looks fool you — Mary Jane’s serves up a tasty homemade green chile cheeseburger. Try it wrapped in a flour tortilla for some-

thing different. Mary Jane’s is the white food truck with outdoor seating right next to Gearing Up Taos on the main drag. 616 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, (575) 770-1171. Stray Dog Cantina

Home of the “serious chile,” Stray Dog Cantina has been flameroasting their chiles for 25 years.

Also popular with locals, Stray Dog Cantina has built a solid reputation around their great burger, fun atmosphere and deliciously strong margaritas. 105 Sutton Place, Taos Ski Valley, (575) 776-2894; timsstraydog.com. Hours: Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 8 a.m.- 9 p.m.

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Katharine Egli

Antonio Matus outside his new Mexican cuisine restaurant.

Antonio’s return The Taste of Mexico serves up an experience true to its name By John Miller very Mexican dish has a story to tell, and after five restaurant locations and more than 30 years in a business that often trades cultural traditions for culinary trends, chef Antonio Matus remains dedicated to telling those stories

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authentically. His eponymously named eatery, Antonio’s: The Taste of Mexico, has seen several iterations over the past 15 years – first in El Prado, in the hacienda that now houses El Meze; then, near Trading Post Café in Ranchos de Taos; at La Cueva Café’s current location; in the space now occupied

by Bella’s Mexican Grill, across from Our Lady of Guadalupe Church; and for three years in Longmont, Colorado – before reopening last month at 1379 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, the former home of Purple Sage Café. Matus’ new digs are smaller than some of his former locations – so small, in fact, that, for brunch on a Sunday last month, a moderately sized party of five formed a line that spilled from the narrow foyer out onto the sidewalk that runs the length of the restaurant. When asked if the group would wait the estimated 20 minutes until seating, a few in the party – patrons of previous Antonio’s restaurants – said they would because the food being prepared on the other side of the door was well worth the wait.

New flavors, familiar setting

Behind a four-seater bar adjacent to the main dining area, servers hustled back and forth from coffee station to kitchen, shuttling platters of piping-hot egg dishes out to tables: classics, like huevos

rancheros and huevos Taoseños, and chef ’s creations that are not quite as common, such as carne asada con huevo, served with thick cuts of flank steak topped with eggs and pico de gallo, and enchiladas de mole rellenas de huevo – scrambled egg enchiladas laden with the legendary sweet-spicy Mexican sauce. Steaming plates and pots of coffee were dropped off in front of customers sitting in a classic Southwestern-style dining area appointed with furnishings purchased from the previous tenant – basic, yet comfortable wooden tables and chairs complemented by warm, muted colors offset by splashes of floral decorations hung along mimic adobe walls. Aside from the vigorous Latin music that now streams from the restaurant’s stereo system, before the food arrives, there is little to distinguish the space from its predecessor, placing an even greater onus on what happens in the kitchen. Continues on 128

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Finding the perfect balance Northern New

Mexico wineries are right on track

By Molly Steinbach hen it comes to winemaking in the United States, California steals all the thunder. Sure, Washington and Oregon get their share, and occasionally even New York gets a nod. Not many people know that winemaking in New Mexico predates them all. The first wine grapes were planted in what is now San Antonio, New Mexico in 1629. This was more than 50 years before such vines made it to California. It was Franciscan and Capuchin monks who brought vines from Spain to plant here to provide a

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steady supply of sacramental wine. The industry grew into the 19th century, by which time New Mexico was producing nearly a million gallons of wine annually. In the early 20th century, however, joint disasters struck. Massive flooding of the Río Grande wiped out vineyards, and Prohibition made the production of anything but sacramental and medicinal alcohol illegal. It wasn’t until the mid-1970s that New Mexico wineries began to rebuild. At the frontlines of this movement was La Chiripada Winery, which planted its first vines in Dixon, just south of Taos, in 1977. Brothers Mi-

chael and Patrick Johnson produced their first vintage bottling in 1981. Today, Patrick’s son, Josh, serves as winemaker, with the brothers still very much involved in the winery’s operations. The family commitment shows in the quality of their wines. An estate Riesling under their Blue Heron label is vibrant with peach, honey and cleansing mineral. The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve serves as testament to the beautiful way in which their wines can age. The winery is now looking forward to the production of its first sparkling wine — made from apples. Continues on 114

Katharine Egli

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Tina Larkin

Jesus Bendezu from Santa Fe carefully picks grapes from the vine on Vivac’s own estate vineyard, Fire Vineyard. Fire Vineyard is uniquely broken into three types of French hybrids — Leon Millot, Baco Noir and Marechal Foch grapes.

>>> ...these three wineries has a distinct and special character, I am struck by their unified goal of enhancing the quality and reputation of New Mexico wine, both locally and nationally.

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La Chiripada boasts two inviting tasting rooms, one at the winery in Dixon, and one on Bent Street in Taos, where one can sample a variety of their delicious and innovative wines. Vivác Winery, also located in Dixon, is likewise a family venture, owned by brothers Jesse and Chris Padberg, and their wives, Michele and Liliana. Founded in 1998, the first vineyard planted — the Fire Vineyard, so-called because the brothers set fire to it as children — is still in use today. They have since planted the 1725 Vineyard, next to their tasting room in Dixon, which offers not only stunning views, but also music-filled happy hours on summer afternoons. Vivác’s organically grown wines range from a bracing Alsatian-style dry Riesling, full of fresh citrus and mineral, to a deep and brooding Petit Verdot, rich with dark berries. The self-professed “wine geeks” at Vivác are always hungry for knowledge and seeking ways to

make better wine; some things, however, stay the same. Despite how the winery is grown, all their grapes are picked by hand (indeed, I’ve picked some myself ), and each stage of the wine’s production is done with an eye toward the highest quality and artistry. In New Mexico, it’s amazing the difference in climate that a few miles (and a few hundred feet in elevation) can make. Black Mesa Winery is only 5 or 6 miles south of Dixon, in Velarde, but has temperatures closer to those of Albuquerque than to those of Taos. So, while Dixon’s vineyards are best suited to a few cool climate grapes, Black Mesa is growing everything from Albariño and Chardonnay to Syrah and Montepulciano. (Vivác recently purchased a vineyard in Velarde as well.) Founded in 1994 and acquired by current owners Jerry and Lynda Burd in 2000, Black Mesa prides itself on “winemaking by committee.” Winemaker Karl Johnsen and Assistant Winemaker Craig Dunn work closely with the Burds

to make a wide variety of wines. Outstanding among these are their estate Albariño, fragrant with orange blossom, and their dry rosé, redolent of strawberry and pink grapefruit. Also not-to-be-missed is their 2012 Petit Verdot, which is inky and meaty, with aromas of black currant and slate. Black Mesa’s two tasting rooms offer something for every guest. In Taos, the elegant room on Ledoux Street has become a local staple for live music. The cozy Velarde location boasts striking vistas and, if you’re lucky, a visit from Sola, the feline “CEO.” Although each of these three wineries has a distinct and special character, I am struck by their unified goal of enhancing the quality and reputation of New Mexico wine, both locally and nationally. From what I’ve tasted, they’re on the right track. Molly Steinbach, of Ranchos de Taos, is a wine columnist for The Taos News. She is a Certified Wine Specialist and the sommelier at medley., in El Prado.

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Cousin cuisines The New Mexican and Mexican flavors of Taos

By Teresa Dovalpage ou may have heard that New Mexico’s official state question is, “Red or green?” It makes perfect sense — chile is a focal point of many dishes, from enchiladas and pozole to burritos and tacos. Ah, but there is yet another question often asked when people are looking for a good restaurant in Taos. “Mexican or New Mexican? Or ‘Christmas,’ a combination of both?” New Mexican and Mexican cuisine share many ingredients like chile, beans and the ubiquitous tortilla. But there are some important differences as well. “New Mexican food is a fusion of Native American and Mexican food,” said Taoseña Tanya Vigil. “We also have the Spanish influence that came to us via Mexico and blended with the Pueblo traditions. Our sopaipillas, for example, are a cross between Indian fried bread and puff pastries.” The three sisters of Nuevo México

Blue corn is a distinctive Southwest crop. Originally grown by the Hopi tribe, and sometimes called Hopi maize, it is used in tortillas, pancake mixes, corn chips and muffins. Orlando’s New Mexican Café has made it the star of one of their most colorful and delicious dishes: the blue corn enchiladas, made with chicken, beef or shrimp, and served with a salad, pozole and beans. Speaking of beans, most residents know that chile became the official New Mexico state vegetable in 1965. But many are not aware that frijoles (pinto beans) share the same distinction. Pinto beans, corn and squash, known as the “three sisters,” have

>>> New Mexican and Mexican cuisine share many ingredients... But there are some important differences as well. been staples of the Pueblo Indian diet for centuries. The third sister is often featured in calabacitas, another traditional New Mexican dish made with sautéed summer squash, zucchini, onions, sweet corn and green chile. Burritos and donkeys

The humble, but filling burrito is a fusion dish. It has Mexican roots, but became popular in California first, and then spread all over the country with a few regional variations. Burritos can be stuffed with beef, chicken, fish or chicharrón (pork). They can be deep-fried or covered in sauce. For the health-conscious crowd, there is the vegetarian option. The burrito diversity is truly amazing. Guadalaraja Grill, a Mexican restaurant with two locations in town, has an assortment of them, from the “beans and cheese only” fare to the “supremo,” stuffed with grilled meat and served with sour cream and guacamole. Continues on 120

New Mexico Tourism Department/Jen Judge

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An iconic New Mexican eatery, El Taoseño Restaurant and Lounge, calls itself “home of the breakfast burrito.” It includes eggs, bacon, hash browns and, of course, chile. But watch it. Cuidado! Not all burritos are created the same. When we get to the “smothered burritos,” served with red or green chile sauce and melted cheese all over, we are talking about purely New Mexican fare. “What do you mean by ‘a smothered burrito’?” asked Raquel Troyce, who spent most of her adult life in Mexico City. “It sounds to me like a little donkey that drowned!” Puro Mexicano

Mexican cuisine is a broad term. It refers to the culinary traditions of a whole country that range from the seafood-based Veracruz dishes to the Sopa Tarasca, a tasty bean and tomato soup from Michoacán. In Taos, the biggest influence comes from northern Mexico, like the Chihuahua and Sonora regions, but there is a little

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of everything. Chihuahua-native María Rodríguez and her husband, José Rael, opened Toribio’s, a restaurant that serves pura comida mexicana (authentic Mexican food) 22 years ago. Most plates — steak ranchero, barbacoa (slow-cooked meat seasoned with chiles and spices) and fajitas — are served with rice, beans and tortillas. “If you are looking for a Mexican side dish, I would say try pico de gallo,” Rodríguez said. “It’s made of onions, tomatoes and peppers. And tacos al pastor is a bien yummy entrée.” Tacos al pastor, made of pork marinated with fresh pineapple, was brought to central Mexico by Lebanese immigrants. After crossing the border, it has become one of Toribio’s most requested dishes. The best of both worlds

Some restaurants, like La Cueva, owned by Juana and Horacio Zarazua, serve both Mexican and New Mexican food. A health-conscious couple, the Zarazuas prepare all their chile-based dishes with

gluten-free flour. Despite its name, Antonio’s, a Taste of Mexico, also offers dishes “from here and south of the border.” Owner Antonio Matus is from Veracruz and has brought his love of seafood to Taos, as his paella and enchiladas de mariscos prove. “My main cultural influences are Mayan, Spanish and Aztec,” he said. “Our signature dish is chile relleno en nogada, a poblano pepper stuffed with beef, pear, apple and onion with a walnut and brandy cream sauce.” (The name “nogada” comes from the Spanish word nogal, that means walnut tree.) “I am not a purist,” said Amalia Rivera, a regular at Antonio’s. “I like going to places where I can get Mexican-style guacamole and blue corn enchiladas, too. That’s the best of two worlds!” Other local New Mexican restaurants include Bella’s, Michael’s Kitchen, Ranchos Plaza Grill, Taos Diner, Abe’s Cantina and Cocina in Arroyo Seco and Casa de Valdez.

>>> ‘I am not a purist. I like going to places where I can get Mexican-style guacamole and blue corn enchiladas, too. That’s the best of two worlds!’ — Amalia Rivera

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“Best Burger in New Mexico” USA Today

ABQ the Mag...Best of the City Best Gourmet Burger

Taos News

Best Happy Hour.

Albuquerque Journal

Burger joint will leave diners Starry Eyed

Alibi

Meat that’s bloody well done.

Santa Fe Reporter Cheeseburger Paradise

GOURMET BURGERS

ENTREES - SANDWICHES - SALADS

HAPPY HOUR 4 - 6 pm DAILY

758-8484 5starburgers.com 1032 Paseo del Pueblo Sur

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discover

aventura

off road By Andy Dennison vidence of the popularity of mountain biking arrives every summer in Taos on the racks of cars and SUVs that roll into town. Once the realm of the hardy mountain types and backyard tricksters, a splurge in advances in bike technology has opened up this off-road sport to the casual peddler. Lighter weight frames, stronger forks, refined disk brakes, sophisticated gearing – these all have developed to meet the needs of a growing mountain biking population. Whether taking a leisurely ride along the single-track atop the Río Grande Gorge or pounding down the steeps at Taos Ski Valley, the options for mountain biking in the Taos region are vast and varied. You can ride up a ski lift and then bounce down, or you can point ‘em up a trail to emerge out of the trees onto the alpine landscape. Taos Ski Valley and Angel Fire turn on their ski lifts during the summer and retrofit the chairs for mountain bikes. Angel Fire Bike Park has become a center for competitive mountain biking in the Rockies, with U.S. and regional downhill runs throughout the season.

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Courtesy Angel Fire Resort

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Courtesy Angel Fire Resort

Angel Fire Resort’s Bike Park is consistently ranked No. 1 in the Southwest by riders and publications. The resort hosts the Scott Enduro Cup in June.

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Stop in at any of the half-dozen bike shops around the region to get the latest skinny on where to ride. They have what you need to armor up for a day on the trails — helmets, clothing, shoes, protective gear, gloves, GPS and much more. And, they have maps to keep you on track. Once all geared up, it’s time to head out. Here’s a look at some of the innumerable options for mountain biking in and around Taos.

EASY CRUISIN’

West Rim Trail: Take off from the parking lot at the Gorge Bridge and pedal leisurely through the sagecovered plateau on the rim of the Río Grande Gorge. It’s a fairly level and well-defined track for about 9 miles. You end up at a small parking area where the road dips into the gorge to cross at Taos Junction. Amole Canyon: Head up State Highway 518 out of Ranchos de Taos. Keep an eye out for Amole Canyon Road on the left after U.S.

Hill. A 7-mile spidery network of hard-packed dirt trails await in piney woods on old logging roads. Perfect place for kids to get their bikes under them and perfect their skills. Cebolla Mesa: Travel north on State Highway 522 past San Cristobal and turn left on Forest Road 9. Park along the road and take a ride on the dirt road through the sagebrush to the campground and overlook at the Río Grande Gorge. Roundtrip is 7 miles. Rift Valley Trail: A parking lot a couple of miles south of Taos is the starting point for two separate trails complete with offshoots. All make it to the rim of the Río Grande, where the Río Pueblo intersects. Longest loop is 10-12 miles, and terrain rolls through sage. Look out for horseback riders.

STEPPIN’ IT UP

Talpa Traverse: Trail begins just up Taos Canyon where the South Boundary Trail takes off. Heading west, this challenging 10-mile outand-back route traces the contours

of the Picuris Range foothills above Taos. Trail ascends and descends 1,100 feet in elevation, with an average grade of 4 percent and rated for intermediates. Horsethief Mesa Route: North on State Highway 522 past Arroyo Hondo to Transfer Station turnoff to left. It’s an intermediate pedal on a 13-mile loop that hangs onto the rim of the Río Grande for about 5 miles. Trail drops 1,000 feet at southernmost terminus (within sight of John Dunn Bridge), has 3 percent average grade with an 18 percent hump in the middle section.

GOIN’ ALL OUT

South Boundary Trail: One of the most popular and challenging runs around, it’s also close to town — about a quarter mile into Taos Canyon on U.S. 64 to parking on the right. A single track at 7,100 feet and a long steady grade averaging 5 percent — with max at 24 percent — rises to above 10,000 feet. Go a full 25 miles to Elliot Barker CampContinues on 134

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STOP IN & STOCK UP for all of your outdoor destinations

Competitive Prices Largest Selction Friendly Staff Over 20 varieties of keg beer Wine tasting every Saturday 3:30pm - 6pm Temperatrue Controlled Wine Cooler Something for every taste...

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DISCOVER DELICIOSO Continues from 106 In his element

In the back of the restaurant, Matus emerges from behind a cloud of fragrant steam and tosses a dozen shrimp in the air. The small crustaceans land back in a flaming pan, and with a few quick movements, Matus dashes the shrimp with dried spices, drapes them in grilled peppers and lays them in a bed of corn tortillas on a stovetop nearby. “Shrimp tacos,” Matus shouts to his sous-chef. The kitchen has been Matus’ sanctuary since he first began cooking as a teenager in his hometown of Xalapa, Mexico, where he first learned the Mexican staple items on his menu today. One of Matus’ favorites is a Mexican delicacy: chicharrones. “In Xalapa, there is a little town nearby called Banderilla,” he says. “As you go just about 10 minutes outside of my city, you get to a little town there, which is known for chicharrones, which are made from the pork belly and come in all different types in Mexico.” Here in New Mexico, Matus says that Mexican food is often oversimplified. For example, chicharrones are commonly presented simply as fried pieces of pork. “Every Sunday, my family would go to the town to buy a few kilos,” he continues. “When we got home, we would serve them in small tortillas with special sauces: tomatilla sauce, suiza sauce and mole poblano.” The last sauce he lists is treated with a certain culinary reverence in Mexico. The chocolate- and nut-based mole sauce even carries its own series of legends that attempt to explain its true origin. In Puebla, for example, one story says that a group of nuns first created mole for a visiting archbishop during the early Spanishcolonial period. Upon tasting it, the archbishop supposedly proclaimed it the best sauce in Mexico. One nun explained that it was a simple “mole,” which translated to “mix” in Spanish. Whatever the sauce’s true genesis might be, mole has become an internationally renowned food, Matus says it’s essential that mole be “done right.” “First, you have to clean the peppers,” he says as he demonstrates the way he cleans them with his hands. “And they have to be the right peppers, too: chile mulato, chile ancho, chile pasilla. You have to seed them out

>>> ...one story says that a group of nuns first created mole for a visiting archbishop during the early Spanishcolonial period. Upon tasting it, the archbishop supposedly proclaimed it the best sauce in Mexico. and take the stems off. Then you roast the peanuts, almonds and sesame seeds that give the sauce its color – but you have to be careful,” he warns. “If you roast them too much, the sauce will be too dark. If you don’t toast them enough, it will be too light.” All told, it takes about four hours, Matus says, before he adds spices, onions, garlic and a special Mexican chocolate mixed with cinnamon as the final ingredients.

‘Here to stay’

Matus and his wife and business partner, Sarah Matus, first met while working at El Patio Restaurant (now The Alley Cantina) 15 years ago. Sarah Matus has been the chef’s business partner and front-of-house manager ever since. “It’s hard work, but we love what we do,” she says. “We’re really happy in this space. It’s a beautiful spot. We’ve been so overwhelmed by all of the feedback from the community and the comments from our friends and fans. We’ve moved around a lot over the years, but this time, we’re here to stay.” When brunch wraps around 2 p.m. and the last customers leave for the day, kitchen staff, owners and servers alike sit down for a meal together – like a family – a final, unseen piece of the authentic cultural experience Antonio’s seeks to bring to its new location in Taos. Antonio’s: The Taste of Mexico can be reached by calling (575) 758-7001.

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The Río Grande del Norte National Monument

hiking back in time By Cindy Brown long the Río Grande, the voices of the ancients still echo in the symbols they left carved in rock. Although the meanings are veiled in mystery, one way to hear about possible interpretations of these petroglyph carvings is to join a guided hike. Summer is the perfect time to walk along the river under the spectacular azure sky. If you go with a ranger,

you might get the chance to see some hidden petroglyphs, along with blooming cactus and wildlife, including big horn sheep. This summer, a series of hikes will be offered in the Río Grande del Norte National Monument led by rangers with the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). The rangers share their knowledge of the land and you will come away with a sense of awe, as you see the deeper meaning of the landscape.

LA VISTA VERDE

On an early Saturday morning, I joined BLM Ranger Randy Roch for La Vista Verde hike. These hikes often begin fairly early, as it can get hot here later in the day. La Vista Verde Trail is found on a wide bench of land above the Río Grande near the Taos Junction Bridge. The hike is 2.5 miles Continues on 132

Geraint Smith

The Río Grande winds through the Río Grande del Norte National Monument, site of La Vista Verde Trail.

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From left: A spiny lizard, a resident of La Vista Verde Trail, scurries over boulders near the trail’s end, photo by Scott Gerdes; petroglyphs near La Vista Verde Trail in the Río Grande del Norte National Monument, photo by Cindy Brown; and a Claret cup catcus, photo by Cindy Brown.

THE GEOCACHE

There is a hidden surprise somewhere along the Vista Verde Trail. Geocaching is a real-world, outdoor treasure hunting game using GPS-enabled devices. Participants navigate to a specific set of GPS coordinates and then attempt to find the geocache (container) hidden at that location. Go to geocaching. com to learn more and get started.

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roundtrip over gently rolling terrain and is generally an easy hike. The trail is located at 6,400 feet in elevation and concludes at a point overlooking the Río Grande. On our hike, we saw a bright red blooming cactus, known as the Claret Cup. Roch provided an overview of the Río Grande Rift, which is a 600-mile long split in North America that has allowed the Río Grande to run from its headwaters near Creede, Colorado, through New Mexico and on to the Gulf of Mexico. On La Vista Verde Trail, there are several areas hidden from view that contain petroglyphs left by Native peoples, as well as Spanish travelers, who moved through the area. Spanish crosses can be seen near the trail. In an area farther from the path, there is a grouping of circular designs, as well as depictions of human-like figures and long flowing curves. Merrill Dicks, archeologist with the BLM, says that there are many interpretations for these symbols, but in most cases the meanings are not certain because they have been lost or held secret. According to Dicks, the long, flowing extended designs are thought to tell the story of a journey. “The Field Guide to Rock Art Symbols of the Greater Southwest” by Alex Patterson has a key to petroglyphs’ designs. Water, irrigation, rainbows and plumed serpents are among the symbols that look similar to the extended designs on La Vista Verde Trail. Although we didn’t see any big horn sheep on this guided hike, they are often present in the rocky areas near the Río Grande. You might also see birds, such as golden eagles or red-tailed hawks. Collared and spiny lizards are often visible along the trail,

sunning themselves or scurrying under rocks. Although not often seen, there are snakes in the area, including the prairie and western diamondback rattlesnake. If you encounter a snake on the trail, back off and give it room to escape. Be sure to wear a hat as protection from the sun and bring plenty of water and high energy snacks whenever you venture out to hike.

SUMMER 2017

This year, the hikes begin in late spring and run through early October. On the schedule are areas that are harder to find on you own such as Ute Mountain and San Antonio Mountain (tentatively planned), which are both north of Taos. These hikes will include an overview of wilderness characteristics and cultural history of the area. “We have completed our inventory of lands in the monument having wilderness characteristics, and we will schedule some ‘rambles’ with a knowledgeable guide,” says monument manager John Bailey. In the Orilla Verde area, south of Taos, there will be several bird walks and activities for kids beginning at the Río Grande Gorge Visitor Center in Pilar. On June 17, the BLM will partner with Amigos Bravos to put on a River Celebration near the Taos Junction Bridge. “Amigos Bravos will provide food and they will work with other partners to have some hands-on opportunities to learn about what makes a watershed healthy, and to talk about some of our ‘charismatic’ wildlife, such as bighorn and river otters,” says Bailey. Early this fall, a one-day BioBlitz will provide participants with direct experience in inventorying and monitoring wildlife along the Río Grande.

The event is sponsored by the BLM, National Forest Service, along with local partners and educators. In 2017, the Río Grande del Norte National Monument marks its fouryear anniversary. It was established in 2013 by proclamation under President Obama. It covers more than 242,000 acres of land full of river gorges and the cones of extinct volcanoes, including Ute Mountain — the highest point in the monument at more than 10,000 feet. There are signs of ancient dwellings and more recent homesteads. The monument extends all the way north to the Colorado border and south to Pilar. Monument status means that no additional mining or mineral exploration will be allowed on the land, but recreation, as well as traditional uses such as grazing and wood-gathering, will be protected in perpetuity.

DIRECTIONS AND MORE INFORMATION

From Taos Plaza go north four miles on Paseo del Pueblo to the intersection with U.S. Highway 64 and State Road 150 (Ski Valley Road.) Turn left and drive west seven miles to the Río Grande Gorge Bridge. Shortly after the bridge, turn left on West Rim Road and go just over eight miles to the stop sign. Take a slight left toward Pilar. Follow the road as it turns to dirt and descends the switchbacks until you see the trailhead on the left. For more information, go to blm. gov/nm/riograndedelnorte or call (575) 751-4703 to be added to the email list to receive a flyer each month. The BLM Visitor Center in Pilar can be reached at (575) 751-4899. Cindy Brown is the hiking columnist for The Taos News and the author of “Taos Hiking Guide.”

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Courtesy Angel Fire Resort

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ground on the Angel Fire side, or cut about halfway and head back to U.S. 64 at Mondragon parking area. Devisidaro Loop Trail: On the other side of U.S. 64 is one of Taosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; favorite hikes and bikes. The route

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climbs 1,000 feet in elevation at an 8 percent grade to high point. Loop begins about a mile up on a welltraveled, but steep single track that requires some technical expertise to navigate. Watch out for hikers and dogs that frequent this close-to-town

getaway. Northside Alpine Flower Loop: Located across from Taos Ski Valley on private land, the pay-to-ride trail system ($10 a day) encompasses about 10 miles of riding in a spectacular alpine setting. Low point is

9,455 feet above sea level, and if you get all the way up to Wheeler Ridge, you get above the treeline at the 12,163-foot Frazer Mountain. Old mining roads intermingle with single tracks for a wide variety of tough, but fair riding.

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Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina

FACES OF TAOS NAME Francisco “Cisco” Guevara

OCCUPATION Los Ríos River Runners rafting outfitters founder, president and guide. Also a noted storyteller, Guevara performs annually at the Taos Storytelling Festival and other events across the country

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The adventurous spirit needed to rise and fall and traverse through whitewater rapids was not something Cisco Guevara felt instinctually — at first. “(It) formed over time,” he confessed. And even though he has been rafting the Río Grande for more than 40 years, he never tires of being immersed in the Orilla Verde section of the river in the Río Grande del Norte National Monument area. “Orilla Verde is close by and easy to get to, has nice boat ramps, no stress on

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AND NO ONE TALE IS HIS BESTLOVED. ‘PICKING A FAVORITE STORY IS LIKE PICKING MY FAVORITE CHILD. I LOVE ALL MY CHILDREN AND I LOVE ALL MY STORIES, SOME MORE THAN OTHERS.’

dangerous big rapids, good fishing and all the while being so gorgeous,” he expressed. Guevara is one of the lucky ones who loves what he does. The best part? “I get to hang out in a beautiful place with awesome people.” He’s also well-known around here for his storytelling. He was recruited by Taos’ literary resource center, Society of the Muse of the Southwest (aka SOMOS) for the annual Taos Storytelling Festival, “Since I had been

telling stories around the campfire for years.” And no one tale is his bestloved. “Picking a favorite story is like picking my favorite child. I love all my children and I love all my stories, some more than others.” If Guevara were not rafting or telling tales, he said he would be “an inmate or a martyr.” Los Ríos River Runners can be contacted by calling (575) 776-8854 or online at losriosriverrunners.com.

SANTA FE MOTOR SPORTS 2594 Camino Entrada 505.438.1888 or toll free 877-479-4833 | www.SantaFeMotorSports.com

It's where the FUN begins! *Offer available on approved purchases of new 2014-2017 Yamaha Motorcycles, Scooters, ATVs & Side-by-Sides made on the Yamaha Credit Card issued by WebBank, member FDIC. Subject to credit approval as determined by WebBank. Offer valid through 6/30/17. Available to existing cardholders of the WebBank Yamaha Card. Account must be open and current to be eligible for this offer. Eligible purchases will be charge no interest for 6 months from the transaction date. Thereafter, you will be charged your standard APR 15.99%-23.99%. Minimum Interest Charge $2. Offer good only in the U.S., excluding the state of Hawaii. Dealer remains responsible for complying with all local and state advertising regulations and laws. Some models shown with optional accessories. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. Do not drink and *Offer ride. available on approved purchases of newand2014-2017 Yamaha Motorcycles, & Side-by-Sides theenvironment. Yamaha Credit Card issued It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha the Motorcycle Safety FoundationScooters, encourageATVs you to ride safely and made respectonthe For further by WebBank, member FDIC.theSubject to credit approval as determined ATV by WebBank. Offerarevalid through 6/30/17. Available to existing information regarding MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. models shown recommended for use only by riders 16 years cardholders and older. of the WebBank Card. for Account must be open andYamaha currentrecommends to be eligible offer. take Eligible purchases will becourse. chargeFornosafety interest 6 months YFZ450R Yamaha recommended experienced riders only. thatfor all this ATV riders an approved training and for training information, see date. your dealer or callyou the will ATV Safety Institute 1-800-887-2887. ATVs can be hazardous to operate. your $2. safety: Always from the transaction Thereafter, be charged youratstandard APR 15.99%-23.99%. Minimum Interest For Charge Offer goodavoid only paved in the U.S., surfaces. Neverofride on public roads. Always wear a helmet, eye protection andlocal protective clothing. Never carry passengers. Never Some engagemodels in stuntshown excluding the state Hawaii. Dealer remains responsible for complying with all and state advertising regulations and laws. riding. Riding and alcohol/drugs don’t mix. And be on difficult terrain. Professional depicted with optional accessories. Dress properly for Avoid your excessive ride with speed. a helmet, eyeparticularly protection,careful long sleeves, long pants, gloves andriders/drivers boots. Do not drink and Always protect the and environment and wearSafety your seat belt, helmet, eye protection and safely protective the owner’s manual ride. Itonisclosed illegalcourses. and dangerous. Yamaha the Motorcycle Foundation encourage you to ride andclothing. respect Read the environment. For further and product warning Model shown with optional Vehicle change. information regarding thelabels MSF before course,operation. please call 1-800-446-9227. ATV accessories. models shown are specifications recommendedsubject for useto only by ©2017 riders 16Yamaha yearsMotor and older. Corporation, U.S.A. for All rights reserved. • YamahaMotorsports.com YFZ450R recommended experienced riders only. Yamaha recommends that all ATV riders take an approved training course. For safety and training

a Motorcycles, Scooters, ATVs & Side-by-Sides made on the Yamaha Credit Card issued rmined by WebBank. Offer valid through 6/30/17. Available to existing cardholders of to be eligible for this offer. Eligible purchases will be charge no interest for 6 months standard APR 15.99%-23.99%. Minimum Interest Charge $2. Offer good only in the U.S., omplying with all local and state advertising regulations and laws. Some models shown helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. Do not drink and afety Foundation encourage to ride respect theat 1-800-887-2887. environment.ATVsFor information,you see your dealersafely or call theand ATV Safety Institute can further be hazardous to operate. For your safety: Always avoid paved surfaces. Never ride on public roads. Always wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing. Never carry passengers. Never engage in stunt 9227. ATV models shown are recommended for use only by riders 16 years and older. riding. Riding and alcohol/drugs don’t mix. Avoid excessive speed. And be particularly careful on difficult terrain. Professional riders/drivers depicted ommends that all ATVon closed riderscourses. takeAlways an approved training and course. andeyetraining protect the environment wear yourFor seatsafety belt, helmet, protection and protective clothing. Read the owner’s manual and product warning labels before operation. Model shown with optional accessories. Vehicle specifications subject to change. ©2017 Yamaha Motor 1-800-887-2887. ATVsCorporation, can be U.S.A. hazardous to operate. For your safety: Always avoid paved All rights reserved. • YamahaMotorsports.com ye protection and protective clothing. Never carry passengers. Never engage in stunt discovertaos.com /// Summer/Fall 2017 ed. And be particularly careful on difficult terrain. Professional riders/drivers depicted our seat belt, helmet, eye protection and protective clothing. Read the owner’s manual h optional accessories. Vehicle specifications subject to change. ©2017 Yamaha Motor

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excellent excursions hooks, headwaters, heat, horizons and hooves

ast a line, hook a trout in one of Northern New Mexico’s beautiful rivers and streams such as the Río Grande, Red River, Río Costilla, Cimarrón and Upper Río Hondo. Experience the thrill of taking a wild whitewater run through the Class IV rapids of the world renowned Taos Box of the Río Grande. Silently rise into the big, stunning Taos sky in Courtesy Wild Earth Llama Adventures

A young hiker and her llama admiring the views in the Río Grande del Norte National Monument.

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a hot air balloon. Saddle up for a horseback trail ride or take the kids on an unforgettable, educational lunch hike or multi-day hike with llamas into pristine Taos County backcountry. And after a day in the wild, soak your bones in the legendary springs featuring sulphur-free, geothermal mineral waters at Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa. Also found

at Ojo are hiking and biking trails, yoga and birding opportunities. And while you’re out there, gaze in delight at the sighting of bighorn sheep or a soaring bird of prey. Outdoor adventures in Northern New Mexico are as unique and memorable as the landscape and nature held within. Continues on 140

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OUTFITTERS FLY FISHING TAOS

Blue Yonder Fly Fishing blueyonderflyfishing.com (575) 779-9002 Cutthroat Fly Fishing cutthroatflyfishing.com (575) 776-5703 Solitary Angler 226C Paseo del Pueblo Norte thesolitaryangler.com (575) 758-565 866-502-1700 Taos Fly Shop 338 Paseo del Pueblo Sur taosflyshop.com (575) 751-1312 Zia Fly ziafly.com (575) 779-3000

RED RIVER

Fagan’s Guided Fly Fishing facebook.com/pg/ FagansFlyFishing/ (575) 770-9451

EAGLE NEST

Eagle Nest Fly Shack & Lodge eaglenestflyshack.com (505) 485-8328

UTE PARK

Doc Thompson’s High Country Anglers flyfishnewmexico.com (575) 376-9220

VELARDE

Land of Enchantment Guides loeflyfishing.com (505) 629-568 (505) 927-5356 Continues on 142

BEST FISHING HOLES

1. RÍO GRANDE (Pilar and John Dunn Access): This year marks the five-year anniversary of the Río Grande del Norte National Monument designation. Having this river in our backyard is one of the things that makes Taos special. It is a mighty river full of personality. Playing nice one day and being withhold-

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ing the next. But it is this very challenge that makes the river grand. 2. THE RED RIVER (Lower Hatchery Stretch): This river is a staple. It is well stocked and managed and gives the fisherman or woman an opportunity to wade in right from the parking lot, or be a little more adventurous and hike down-

river into the Red River canyon to find a bit more solitude. 3. THE CIMARRON: Only 45 minutes from Taos, this tailwater fishery is a favorite for both tourists and locals as it provides miles of easily accessible river that winds through a canyon of exposed rock and large pines. — Emily Roley, Taos Fly Shop guide

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Rafting the Río Grande is on many a visitor’s bucket list. Continues from 140

WHITEWATER RAFTING Big River Rafts bigrivertrips.com 1-800-748-3746

Cottam’s Río Grande Rafting cottamsriogranderafting.com 1-800-322-TAOS (8267) Far Flung Adventures facebook.com/farflungadventure (575) 758-2628

facebook.com/pg/Native-Sons-Adventure-Company (575) 758-9342 New Mexico River Adventures newmexicoriveradventures 1-800-983-7756 New Wave Rafting newwaverafting.com 1-800-984-1444

HORSEBACK RIDING A.A. Taos Ski Valley Wilderness Adventures aataosskivalleywildernessadventures.com (575) 751-6051

Los Rios River Runners losriosriverrunners.com (575) 776-8854

Bobcat Pass Trail Rides (Red River) bobcatpass.com (575) 754-2769

Native Sons Adventure Company

Cieneguilla Stables (Pilar)

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(575) 751-2815 Nancy Burch’s Roadrunner Tours (Angel Fire) nancyburch.com (575) 377-6416 Red River Stables redriverstables.com (575) 754-1700 Río Grande Stables riograndestables.com (click on New Mexico information) Rides in Taos Ski Valley on the weekends, and trail rides in Lama, New Mexico — in between Taos and Questa — daily. (575) 776-5913 Taos Indian Horse Ranch Taos Pueblo (575) 758-3212

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145 New Mexico’s Top River Operator Since 1980

NewWaveRafting.com • 1.800.984.1444

The official Taos vacation guide

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HOT AIR BALLOON RIDES Eske’s Paradise Balloons taosballooning.com (575) 751-6098 Pueblo Balloons puebloballoon.com (575) 751-9877 Taos Hot Air Balloon Rides taosballoonrides.com (575) 224-6022

LLAMA TREK

Wild Earth Llama Adventures Taos Educational and memorable day hikes and multiday treks with naturalists guides and gentle llamas through some of the area’s most beautiful backcountry scenery. Wild Earth is New Mexico’s oldest and most experienced llama trekking outfitter. The llamas are not ridden; they are “wooly hiking companions” and gear carriers. Gourmet meals are prepared and served fresh in the great outdoors. Join Wild Earth for their popular, “Take a Llama to Lunch!” Day Hike, or take a Multi-Day Wilderness Expedition with opportunities to camp near hidden alpine lakes and climb New Mexico’s tallest peaks. llamaadventures.com 1-800-758-LAMA (5262)

HOT SPRINGS

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa Celebrating 50 years, Ojo is the only geothermal springs in the world with four different minerals: lithia, iron, soda and arsenic. Public and private pools are open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Just 45 minutes from Taos. ojospa.com 1-800-222-9162 — Compiled by Scott Gerdes Katharine Egli

Wide eyes greet the morning fall sky.

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Geraint Smith

Taking a photography tour with one of Taos’ talented photographers will not only improve your skills, but take you to some hidden gems.

presenting you on tour T

here are so many natural and historic places and activities in this neck of New Mexico that you might want a helping hand with experiencing them.

WALKING AND RIDING TOURS TURQUOISE TOURS

Travel junkies who crave a tour experience with the real people of a place will rejoice with the options presented by Turquoise Tours. To get a real sense of us Taoseños you can choose to “hear the stories from locals, cook traditional foods with locals, ride a mountain bike with a local and maybe even stay with a local.” Turquoise Tours offers the following four distinctive excursions that need to be booked in advance. turquoisetours.us (575) 776-TOUR (8687) Taos Highlights Tour Over three hours, visit Taos’ mustsee sites including Taos Pueblo, the Historic Taos Plaza, the Río Grande from the Gorge Bridge, and the 148

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Earthship Biotecture Community. Transportation comes from Casper, a 12-passenger van, from which the guides “offer engaging stories of colorful characters of the past, riveting historical accounts about Crypto-Jews, and let you in on the quirkinesses that make Taos the most unique town you’ll ever experience.” This tour is $46 per person, plus $16 for Pueblo admission. Historic Walking Tour In just 50 minutes, you — and your dog if so inclined — will get a good sense of this colorful, quirky place we call home as you’re guided to key historical spots. One of those pivotal places is the Gov. Bent home where he was dragged outside and scalped alive. Another is Taos’ red light district — well, of the past, that is. A guide will also tell you about the mysterious death of Mr. Manby, the 15 children of Padre Martinez and “The Trump of Taos,” to name a few. This tour is offered daily throughout the summer. Cost is $18 per person. Taste of Taos Food Tour Foodies listen up — for two hours

and $62 per person you can taste and learn why the green chile is a traditional, much-used ingredient in New Mexican cuisine while wrapping your lips around some of the best vittles Taos has to offer. This tour features a progressive, two-hour lunch and a visit to four eateries all within one block of Historic Taos Plaza. Winery Tour New Mexico may have a short growing season, but the wines produced here will delight. On this 3 1/2 hour tour you will learn about the high desert grapes grown here and see where the wines are produced. And, of course, you’ll get to taste what are sure to become new favorites. Leave the driving to the tour. Cost is $79 per person and includes wine tasting fees, server tips and transportation.

TAOS HISTORIC TOURS

The Pueblo Revolt of 1680, the site of the assasination of New Mexico’s first governor and the home of frontiersman Kit Carson are some of the stops on this 2-hour walking tour covering less than 1 mile. Two person minimum, $15 each. Children free

with adult. (575) 613-5508 or email taostours@gmail.com.

HISTORIC TAOS TROLLEY TOURS

Wonder why so many doors and windows are painted in “Taos blue?” Interested in knowing how the Penitentes came to be in Taos? These and many other questions will be answered on a trolley tour. Some people get married on the red trolley often seen at Taos Plaza during the summer and others just want a classic, old-fashioned tour. What locals refer to as simply, “The Trolley,” this narrated, enlightening tour travels to Taos Pueblo or choose to ride around the winding, scenic streets of Taos including the Plaza, La Hacienda de los Martinez, Millicent Rogers Museum and the famous San Francisco de Asís Church. The latter History and Culture Tour is offered on Sunday and Monday afternoons from May through October. There are two boarding locations: the Taos Visitor Center on Paseo del Pueblo Sur and Paseo del Cañon at 2 p.m., and at Continues on 152

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tips to teeing off mountain style

golfing at high altitude By Andy Dennison aos Country Club sits at 7,000 feet in elevation, Valle Escondido Golf Club at 8,500 feet and Angel Fire Country Club at 8,400. Most visitors come to Northern New Mexico from much lower elevations — many from sea level. So everyone has to make adjustments for teeing it up at these elevations from club selection, clothing and conditioning. Here’s some tips:

BALL FLIGHT

All golfers seek a consistent ball flight and a predictable distance for each club. But golfing at altitude demands a recalibration of distance. The 10 percent rule generally holds true, meaning your ball will fly 10 percent more than at lower elevations. So, if you normally hit a 7-iron for 150 yards, you will find it going 150

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as much as 165 yards in Northern New Mexico. Also, PGA pros note that if you hit a high ball flight, it’s more difficult to determine distance as the thinner air provides less drag on the ball. Any adjustments you can make to lower your ball flight will improve your ability to judge distances. The more you play up here, the better you will get at determining how far your ball will fly. Check at the pro shop for local advise on distance adjustments.

WEATHER/DRESS

When it comes to predicting the weather in Northern New Mexico, there’s one thing that’s consistent: change. No matter what time of year, the weather will undoubtedly shift throughout the day. Typically, we have cool, calm mornings. Expect

to wear a sweater or windbreaker to start, and dress in layers that will come off one by one as the temps rise as the sun gets higher in the sky. As the sun warms the air and the ground, things begin to happen. Expect the wind to kick up about midday and, usually, persist until sundown. Prevailing direction is south and southwest, although it will swing more toward the northwest on occasions. And, except in the fall, thunderstorms will likely start building around noon. They typically dump their moisture in hard but short bursts, accompanied by barks of thunder and bolts of lightning. Seek cover in shelters along the course as thunderstorms threaten or, if no structures are around, find a low spot and hunker down. Avoid high ground, bodies of water, isolated large trees or metal objects (put

golf clubs in your bag and keep your distance during lightning). If in the trees, seek shelter in a low area under as thick a grove of small trees as you can find.

CONDITIONING

There’s less oxygen up here so your lungs have to work harder. That means you will get out of breath quicker than usual, especially if you are walking. It’s difficult to train for high elevation exercise without being there. So, plan to pause more often and catch your breath. And, expect to feel out of sorts for a couple of days before your body adjusts to these conditions. It’s also drier up here in the high desert. All the courses in Northern New Mexico provide water stations along the way, but it’s important to bring a water bottle or two. Regu-

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From left: The par 72, 6,653-yard, 18hole Angel Fire Golf Course surrounded by the southern Rocky Mountains, courtesy Angel Fire Resort; Taos Country Club Golf Course, photo by Scott Gerdes; and Valle Escondido Golf Course, photo by Tina Larkin.

larly take a drink to keep your body hydrated. Lack of water and oxygen depletion can result in light headedness. Be aware of that and take a seat. No macho response necessary here; it’s the climate and altitude that’s in control. And, at the 19th hole by the clubhouse, expect that post-round beer or cocktail to kick in a bit stronger than usual. While it will help exaggerate your tales of triumphs on the course, you should drink some water and spend some time after drinks before getting behind the wheel.

THE COURSES

Taos Country Club (taoscountryclub.com) ranges from 5,336 to 7,300 in yardage. This par-72 layout’s Bermuda fairways route their way through low sagebrush. Frequent sand traps guard the undulating Bent

grass greens. Designed by Jep Wille and open since 1993, the Taos loop makes you hit most of your clubs … and hit ‘em straight. The front and back nine present differing challenges. The opening holes head downhill until the No. 4 tee, the lowest point on the course. Get ready for an uphill walk (or drive) all the way to the No. 7 green — the highest point on the course — before heading back down toward the clubhouse to finish the front nine. The back nine descends to the No. 10 green, then climbs up to the “back-back nine” for the No. 14 through No. 17 holes. A birdiefriendly finishing hole provides a good reason to come back. The Terrace serves drinks, craft beers, snacks and gourmet dishes. Next door is a full-service pro shop, and the expansive patio affords stunning views of the Sangre de Cristo

Mountains and the Río Grande watershed. At Angel Fire Resort (angelfireresort.com), the meeting of mountain and meadow produces 18 holes as varied as any. With yardage from 4,868 to 6,645, the bluegrass fairways wind through tall stands of ponderosa pine and across rich, wet bottomland. Plenty of elevated tee boxes, blind shots and leave-the-driver-in-the-bag shots — plus, your Seve Ballesteros ingenuity will help. Opene since 1961, the Lebus & Paul Ortiz-designed layout stays in the trees for the front nine. The back nine takes in a few more forested holes before emerging into the low meadows. The course crosses the Cienguilla Creek for the first time on No. 13, and the meandering stream keeps golfers on their toes for the next four holes. No. 18 climbs back up the hill to the clubhouse, where

two eateries, bar, pro shop and locker rooms await. Valle Escondido (taosgolf.org) golf course is a throwback (no carts). Owned and operated by the Valle Escondido Homeowners Association, this nine-holer sprawls across mountain pastures and cattailed wetlands, and around inconveniently situated ponderosa pines to postage-stamp greens. Fairways tend toward the “natural state,” so clean-and-place is acceptable at all times. The first three holes stay on top, but the bottom falls out with par-5 No. 4. An elevated tee with menacing pines overlooks a bifurcated fairway. After that, the course winds among log cabins and mountain homes, and finishes off with a leg-burning, lung-busting hump up to the No. 9 hole. The humble clubhouse serves as a community hangout with cold beer, cocktails and bar food. discovertaos.com /// Summer/Fall 2017

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152 New Mexico and southern Colorado. Tours are typically done under the auspices of Seven Directions Tours (sevendirections.net, 1-877-9926128). Prices are based on the tour and number of people, number of days booked, accommodations and size and type of vehicle needed. jimodonnellphotography.com, (575) 779-1181.

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Taos Plaza at 2:15 p.m. The Pueblo excursion begins at the Plaza, passes along other notable places along the way and makes the short trip to the Pueblo for an hourlong visit. The tour ends with a stop at the San Francisco de Asís Church. The Pueblo Tour is offered twice daily, Tuesday through Saturday. Board the trolley at 10:30 a.m. or 2 p.m. at the Visitors Center, or at 10:45 a.m. and 2 p.m. at Taos Plaza. Fares for both tours are $43 for adults; $14 for children (age 7-12); and children 6 and under are free. Tickets may be purchased at the Visitor Center or from the tour guide. taostrolleytours.com, (505) 550-5612.

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURS GERAINT SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY

Geraint Smith has been beautifully capturing the dramatic landscape of Northern New Mexico and southern Colorado for more than 30 years. He offers year-round full and half day Photo Tours and three day Photography Adventure Workshops.

MARK SCHUMANN PHOTOGRAPHY

Courtesy Turquoise Tours

Guided walking tours are a popular way to get acquainted with Taos and its history.

Individual instruction into basic through advanced digital imaging is also available. Full day: $395 per person; half day: $225 per person. geraintsmith. com, (505) 501-4880.

STEVEN BUNDY PHOTOGRAPHY

Join Steven Bundy on his “High Road to Taos,” “Abiquiú and Ghost Ranch,” “San Luis Valley, Colorado,” “Highway 17, Colorado/ New Mexico,” or “Turquoise Trail” tour as he sets out to, as he states, “... capture and preserve the vast landscapes, crumbling buildings,

rusting forgotten cars and evidence of diverse cultures that I find along the way — giving them new recognition, preserving them as they erode, before they melt back into the earth.” Tours can be customized. Discounts for groups. Full day: $350; half day: $200. stevenbundy.com, (760) 518-1530.

JIM O’DONNELL PHOTOGRAPHY

As an experienced outdoor guide with first-aid certification, Jim O’Donnell leads hiking, wildlife, archaeology, art history and photography tours throughout Northern

If you like to hike with your camera, Mark Schumann’s photo tours will take you on some challenging and amazing trails leading to spectacular views, such as Williams Lake, Wheeler Peak, trails in the Orilla Verde Recreation Area along the Río Grande Gorge about 20 miles southwest of Taos and to the confluence of the Río Grande and Red River in the Wild Rivers Recreation Area near Questa. Tours can be customized to accommodate schedules, fitness levels and interests. Full day: $325; half day: $200; two days: $600; three days: $800 per person. Discounts available for couples and groups. schumannphoto. com, (505) 901-2544. — Compiled by Scott Gerdes

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T OUCHING LIVES

The Taos County Senior Program is there to help 60-and-over county residents with the following FREE services: Congregate Lunch Meals for a suggested donation of $1.50 for Senior 60 and over (From July to February 2016 over 18,135 congregate meals were served) (Come Join us for Lunch (seniors 59 and under $7.50 per meal) Meals on Wheels (From July to February 2016 over 30,415 HDM meals were served) Tai-Chi every Monday - Fitness exercises three days a week Bingo Tuesdays (Chamisal Center) and Wednesdays (Taos Center) (Questa Center Tue-Thur) Free door-to-door transportation to go shopping or get to a doctorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; appointment in the Taos County Area Foster Grandparent Program (55 and Over) brings seniors and children together The Senior Companion Program (55 and Over) helps bring home bound seniors and seniors together Both Programs provide a stipend for volunteers who meet the criteria of the FGP/SCP Program

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HAUNTED HALLWAYS ‘Is this place ghostly by any chance?’ By M. Elwell Romancito

aybe you want more than the thrill of the great outdoors and the simple pleasures a Taos vacation has to offer and you’re looking for a place to stay that has a little something extra in the way of ghosts or rumors of ghosts. It’s safe to say that it would be hard to stay anywhere in town or even a far-flung location that hasn’t seen its share of historical drama. Many places have a reputation, but there are some locations which seem to have gained a certain momentum for paranormal activity. What follows is far from an exhaustive list of haunted properties, but is a list of perhaps those properties that have garnered the biggest reputation for activity. Mabel Dodge Luhan House — The home of Mabel Dodge Luhan on Morada Lane just off Kit Carson Road is known to also have many resident spirits. Luhan was a salon hostess, art patroness, writer who came to Taos in 1918 and according to her reputation, she was a self-appointed savior of humanity. She hosted many famous people in her home and even after her death, her home was owned by Dennis Hopper from 1978 through 1978. It is unclear if the ghosts on the property are that of Luhan or of the many famous guests she was known to entertain. Guests of Luhan’s included Emma Goldman, Alfred Stieglitz, Georgia O’Keeffe, Margaret Sanger, John Reed and more. Claims at the home range from the smell of cinnamon, a favorite spice of Luhan’s, and the sound of occasional voices and the feeling of being watched from the upper windows of the property. La Fonda — On Taos Plaza, the original hotel on this site was built in 1880. Robert Pooler and his wife purchased the hotel and bar in 1900 and ran it together until Pooler was shot and killed by a disgruntled bar customer in 1909. The hotel was run by his widow and her heirs until they sold it in the late 1920s. James and John Karavas, Greek immigrants, along with James’ wife, Noula, and their 5-year-old son, Saki, came to Taos in 1922. First, they leased the restaurant in the Columbian Hotel, then they bought Continues on 160

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Historical File Photo

Mabel Dodge Luhan’s spirit is thought to visit her former home.

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• WORK • OUTDOOR • FOOTWEAR 1 BLOCK SOUTH OF TAOS PLAZA (575) 758-2873 10 MIN NORTH OF SANTA FE US84/285 (505) 820-6422

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HAUNTED HALLWAYS

Clockwise from top left: The Historic Taos Inn isn’t just popular with the living, photo by Tina Larkin; Hotel La Fonda, photo by M. Elwell Romancito; people report smelling the late Mabel Dodge Luhan’s favorite spice, cinnamon, while visiting her home, The Taos News file photo; and San Geronimo Lodge, photo by M. Elwell Romancito.

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the hotel and made major renovations, which included adding a second and third story. The property is said to be haunted by Saki Karavas, who essentially grew up with the hotel staff catering to his needs. It is said the aroma of his cigars and pipe tobacco can be detected even to this day. The Historic Taos Inn — Since 1936, The Historic Taos Inn on Paseo del Pueblo Norte has welcomed famous people and regular folks. The inn is made up of several adobe casitas, which date from the 1800s. These surrounded a small plaza which is now the hotel’s lobby. A community well was located in the center

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of the plaza. In its place today, a fountain is surrounded by wooden columns which rise two-and-a-half stories to a stained glass cupola. There are multiple reports of different kinds of hauntings in the older parts of the hotel, especially the rooms with windows on the main road. One report is of an apparition that likes to sit at the foot of the guest’s bed. Other reports come from the kitchen area where many people who have worked at the inn over the years say they will hear noises in empty rooms or their names being called. Blue Sky Retreat at San Geronimo Lodge — The San Geronimo Lodge off Kit Carson Road used to be a dude ranch and bed-and-breakfast

style inn. It was built in 1925 as one of the first resort-style hotels in New Mexico. The traditional adobe walls, high viga ceilings and unique artwork throughout the inn is a testament to its history. The claims are various. Besides shadow people crisscrossing a balcony when there is no one there to mysterious moving lights, San Geronimo Lodge has been known to send some guests to the lobby in the middle of the night due to the extreme nature of the paranormal activity. One of the mysteries of the Old San G is locating the entrance to the old wine cellar, which is thought to be underneath the property, but no longer accessible because the old entrance has been lost.

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BED & BREAKFAST

FINE ACCOMODATIONS IN TAOS

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INN ON LA LOMA PLAZA A Historic Taos landmark, 2 blocks from downtown, featuring exceptional hospitality, Southwest ambiance and old world charm. Enjoy expansive gardens, mountain views, fantastic full breakfast, and romantic rooms with fireplaces. All rooms have air conditioning Peggy & Jerry Davis, Innkeeper · laloma@VacationTaos.com

VacationTaos.com 315 Ranchitos Road 800-530-3040 • 575-758-1717

DREAMCATCHER BED & BREAKFAST

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Kiva Fireplaces • Deep Soaking Jetted Tubs • Hearty Breakfast Spa Services • Private Hot Tubs, Entrances, Sauna, Patios & Deck

Choose from 16 outstanding Bed & Breakfast inns, each providing an authentic New Mexican charm ranging from rustic to artistically inspired. Find the perfect place from which to discover Taos.

An Authentic 1830’s Adobe Hacienda

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www.adobepines.com 575-751-0947 • 800-723-8267

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CASA BENAVIDES INN

Nestled in a serene, wooded area just a 10 minute walk from Historic Taos Plaza which is the center of our lively town. Feast on our European breakfasts. Adventures await you in every season.

Downtown Historic Inn 3/4 block from Plaza. Free WiFi in all 38 rooms, extensive art collection, patios, balconies, hot tub, luxury rooms available, air conditioned rooms. KILLER BREAKFAST and afternoon tea with desserts included. Voted BEST B&B four years in a row. Book online or call for reservations.

www.dreambb.com 416 La Lomita Rd • 575-758-0613

www.casabenavides.com 137 Kit Carson Road • 575-758-1772

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Interview and photo by Megan Bowers Avina

FACES OF TAOS NAMES Iggy Igloo and Charles D. Kading

OCCUPATION Street musicians, activists

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It doesn’t take much meandering through the side streets of Taos Plaza before hearing a few wafting notes of an instrument and an honest voice singing from the heart. Some play to share their talents, some to get their views across and many, walking a different path, living simply for a need to make a few bucks for lunch while on their journey. Iffy Igloo (pictured on right) on acoustics, found his

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way to Taos from Colorado Springs, Colorado. Igloo, a water protector, spent the winter at Standing Rock until everyone was forced to leave. Igloo then hit the road to Taos to help with the traditional cleaning of the acequias and river beds. He stayed to connect with the native peoples of Taos saying, “I’m soaking in the beauty of Taos, I’m a folk singer. I’ve been playing for 15 years — I play to eat,

I love playing music and since environmental activism is a volunteer thing, I play to make money as well. In lieu of a traditional career I choose this. I write my own songs and play a lot of old folk songs. I learn as much as I can about music in this world. Everybody likes music. Everything can be equated with music. I dive deep into my musical consciousness and heart.” Joining Igloo on the Taos

Plaza bench was longtime Taos resident, Charles D. Kading, who has played the harmonica around the globe, including Europe and Northern Africa. A stewardship consultant, Kading wrote for Sustain Taos many years ago. Kading shared, “I changed, ‘What is your carbon footprint?’ to, ‘What is your suffering footprint, what suffering do you bring upon our world?’”

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hand make beads anymore.” But don’t shy away from turquoise that has been “stabilized.” Turquoise is naturally soft. Stabilizing refers to the process of hardening turquoise that is too crumbly or soft to cut and polish. The process is done in an autoclave in which resins are injected under heat and pressure. This is not the same as a stone being dyed. Stabilizing helps maintain the natural color of turquoise and hardens it. This is often done because turquoise slowly absorbs oils from our skin and comes into contact with natural elements, changing its color over time. In rating turquoise, the higher the shine on it, the higher the gem grade a piece receives. Diamonds are rated the top at 10. Turquoise is typically in the 6 range, the same as glass. High-grade turquoise is getting more expensive, Pasaka says. It’s harder to mine since turquoise is often found around copper. The mine owners pick who gets the rights to mine out the turquoise when uncovered, and oftentimes, won’t even stop copper removal to let others come in to remove the turquoise. Add to that, the copper mining process literally crushes the turquoise. Copper has a higher monetary value than turquoise. Plus, turquoise is expensive to mine. It can be found in gold mines, too. The Fox Mine in eastern Nevada is now closed to turquoise mining and only removes gold. “That happens a lot, unfortunately. The (turquoise) mining process is brutal,” Pasaka says. “Much of it isn’t mined from underground

Courtesy of the Palace of the Governors Photo Archives (NMHM/DCA, 005236)/Photo by Bill Lippincott

Herculano Montoya of Cienega at the Tiffany Turquoise Mine near Turquoise Post, Cerrillos, New Mexico (1937-1939).

anymore.” All of that drives up the price of the real McCoy, which today is sold by the carat and not by the gram. Higher prices and demand keep the door open for fakes.

“It’s driven by fashion, which helps the turquoise industry,” Pasaka says. “But there’s still a huge influx of turquoise in department stores. Demand goes up and down, but turquoise won’t ever loose its popularity.”

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x Getting to

ARROYO SECO:

From Taos, for about four miles, head north on Paseo del Pueblo Norte/ U.S. Highway 64. Turn right on State Road 150 (this intersection is known as “the old blinking light”). Drive for about five miles and State Road 150 will take you directly into Arroyo Seco.

Gak Stonn

People often say the annual Arroyo Seco Fourth of July event is “the biggest little parade” in the country.

Arroyo Seco Un poquito de todo

on’t let its tiny size fool you. In typical Taos County fashion, the Spanish land-grant community of Arroyo Seco packs an impressive share of dining and shopping options onto just a short stretch of State Road 150 heading toward Taos Ski Valley. As the locals say, “un poquito de todo” — Arroyo Secco has a little bit of everything.

Shop and eat

The galleries and boutiques are a stone’s throw

from each other. Pottery, photography, contemporary and folk art to women’s fashions, ornaments, Pendleton blankets, antiques and unique gifts, it’s all there and more in “Seco.” Walking can crank up one’s appetite — an easy fix in Seco, just set your sights on ice cream legends Taos Cow (Bon Appétit magazine named it one of the top 10 ice cream shops in America), green chile gurus Abe’s Cantina and Cocina, the part convenience store and part deli Sol Food, exquisite

farm-to-table lunch and Sunday brunch cuisine at Aceq (aceqrestaurant.com) and fine dinner dining coupled with a freshsqueezed margarita in a 150-year-old adobe that is Sabroso Restaurant and Bar (sabrosotaos.com).

Sleep

The village offers quality lodging accommodations, including the quirky downtown hostel the Abominable SnowMansion (snowmansion.com). The more-than70-year-old classic adobe

history:

lodge has six large rooms that open into the common area. Rental teepees are a common site on the hostel’s grounds from May to October. With a pool table and plenty of toys, boredom is not an issue. There are also a number of vacation home rentals in the area and bed and breakfasts, such as Adobe and Stars (taosadobe. com) and Cottonwood Inn, (575) 776-5826.

Celebrate

The Fourth of July Parade down the main street has

become a tradition in these parts, mostly due to the fun, colorful and eclectic paraders. Annually, an average of 5,000 people congregate in this town of approximately 1,000 residents for two blocks of zaniness and hoopla. Every year, larger crowds gather at noon to see painted ponies, decorated floats, vintage cars and more quirkiness. During the day, there are also free concerts and great food. People often say it’s “the biggest little parade in the country.”

Arroyo Seco’s Church of the Holy Trinity dates back to 1834. It is built of adobe with heavy vigas and corbels and an altar where an original bulto — a three-dimensional sacred sculpture, which represents the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit — is still revered.

WHERE THE LOCALS GO! Fresh Homemade Food

Take-out Food, Groceries, Package Beer, Wine & Spirits Ice & ATM Available Cocina 7 am - 4:30 pm Closed Saturday May thru November (Cocina Only)

GOTTA TRY OUR BREAKFAS T BURRITO SERVED ALL DAY

(575) 776-8516 Cantina Open 9 am (575) 776-8643

Arroyo Seco, NM • Family Owned & Operated for over 70 years Major Credit Cards Accepted

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FIRST PLACE

CELEBRATING 19 YEARS IN SECO! discovertaos.com /// Summer/Fall 2017

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Courtesy Taos Ski Valley/photo by Kurt Schmidt

View of Taos Ski Valley from Wheeler Peak.

Taos Ski Valley Untamed spirit

urrounded by sacred wilderness and infused with the cultures of the Native Pueblo, Hispanic and European peoples who have defined it, Taos Ski Valley (TSV) is steeped in legend and mystique. The vast, rugged terrain and generous, free-spirited community call out to a different kind of adventurer — a mountain lover with a passion for outdoor thrills and a taste for cultural discovery. The resort is undergoing a renovation, including the 80-room hotel The Blake at Taos Ski Valley, — named after the resort’s co-founder Ernie Blake — which 170

opened in February. The decor and museum-quality art weaves the European, Hispanic and Native influences of Taos together into a beautiful, cultural tapestry. The village was incorporated in 1996. It is the highest residential home in the state at 10,388 feet above sea level. The last official census put TSV’s human population at 69, but they share the valley with a much larger population of elk, deer, bears and bighorn sheep.

Top of the world

TSV’s easiest and most relaxing way to escape sum-

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mer’s heat and enjoy the mountain scenery is a scenic chairlift ride on lift No. 4 by The Bavarian Restaurant. At the top, experience unobstructed views of New Mexico’s highest point, Wheeler Peak, and Kachina Peak and abundant wildflowers. There are several picnic tables at the top for a great lunch spot. The lift begins running the weekend following Labor Day and continues through September, on Thursday through Monday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. In September, the lift will run on Saturdays and Sundays only. For more information, call (575) 776-2291.

On two feet

The hike on Williams Lake Trail is a popular trek accessed at the parking lot in which 1,000 feet are gained in altitude (start at about 10,000 feet) in just under 2 miles. Englemann spruce stands dominate the beginning of the trail. As you get closer to the upper end, it opens up into meadow land and scattered rock fields. Another reward for reaching the natural lake is the opportunity to continue on up to Wheeler Peak along the Wheeler Peak Trail, the highest point in New Mexico at 13,131 feet. Other trails include Long Canyon/Bull of the

Woods at 3.6 miles; Gavilan at 2.4 miles; Italianos Canyon at 3.5 miles; Manzanita Canyon at 4.2 miles; and Yerba Canyon at 4.0 miles. For more details on the trails and maps, go online to skitaos.com.

On two wheels

The popular Northside Trail (ridenorthside.com) is a self-guided, fee-based mountain biking area on 1,200 acres of private recreational development. As a mapped and signed trail system designed especially for mountain biking, Northside is a looped trail network with spectacular overlooks, Continues on 172

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taos ski valley Getting to Taos Ski Valley:

From Taos, follow Paseo del Pueblo Norte through El Prado. Go right onto State Highway 150, drive through Arroyo Seco and continue following State Highway 150, about 19 miles.

Courtesy Taos Ski Valley/photo by Kurt Schmidt

Kachina Peak lift at Taos Ski Valley. Continues from 170

single and double track routes through pines, aspen and meadows. The terrain is best suited for the intermediate and higher level rider. Singletracks. com selected Northside as one of the 20 most scenic mountain bike trails in the Western U.S. For the more adventurous, one can pedal to the top of Frazer Mountain, 12,163 feet, the highest point on the property at an average grade of less than 10 percent. Northside is open dawn to dusk from late June through October, weather permitting. Access permits are for sale at many locations in Taos Ski Valley or at the trailhead kiosk. Permits are also sold in Taos at

Taos Cyclery and Gearing Up Bike Shop.

Frisbee fun The disc golf course at Taos Ski Valley begins near the Resort Center at the base of Chair No. 5. From there, it meanders up the Rubezahl trail, another popular hiking trek. The course comes back down Pioneer Beginners Hill to the base of the mountain. There is no charge to play. Discs can be purchased at Taos Ski & Boot.

Hungry? The Resort Center has a rejuvenated look and feel. Restaurants are creating new menus in a commitment to providing more choices for healthier and selective diets with food

coming from New Mexico sources, including organic produce and sustainable fisheries. TSV eateries include German-inspired The Bavarian Lodge and Restaurant; Northern New Mexican cuisine at Stray Dog Cantina; the Pizza Shack; Black Diamond Espresso; Bumps Market, a full-service convenience store; and the new 192 restaurant at The Blake, which features wood-fired pizza and eclectic tapas.

More on the mountain For more things to do, including a Mountain Skills Rock Climbing camp the kids’ outdoor play area at The Bavarian restaurant and live concerts, go online to taosskivalley.com.

Williams Lake Hike 1,000 feet are gained in altitude (start at 10,000 feet) Mountain weather It’s always chilly at night in the mountains. So if you’re out after sunset, it’s wise to bring fleece or a sweater.

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Courtesy Angel Fire Resort

The Zipline at Angel Fire Resort begins at 10,600 feet. The lines vary from 120 to 1,600 feet in length.

Angel Fire

A bounty of cool

By Ellen Miller-Goins his community is cool, comfortable, even tranquil in the summer. Opportunities for fun are plentiful with shopping, tennis, top-rated golf, scenic chairlift rides, birding, hiking, horseback rides, ATV tours, horseshoes, basketball, swimming, miniature golf, disc golf, playgrounds and picnic areas and paddleboats, rowboats and fishing at Monte Verde Lake. Angel Fire Resort offers activities for kids and An 18-hole disc golf course is at the summit of Angel Fire Resort. grown-ups including a climbing wall, a Bounce Angel Fire Bike Park is super chunk trails. It has House, and the “Eurothe largest bike park in the been voted “Best in the bungy” trampoline-pulley Rocky Mountains with Southwest” by MTBparks. combo that hoists you and more than 60 miles of com three years in a row. three others into the air to lift-served terrain featurAngel Fire Resort’s flip, fly and jump yourself ing the best skinnies, jump Zipline Adventure Tour lines, manicured flow and features six ziplines at the silly. 174

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Courtesy Angel Fire Resort

top of the mountain. Tours typically take two to three hours, and the ziplines vary from 120 to 1,600 feet in length. Between ziplines, you’ll walk along a scenic

path. Call (844) 218-4107 for availability. New this summer is the Angel Fire Resort Fly Fishing School. This program offers two-day fly-fishing instruction, and “Stay and Fly” fish packages, which include all equipment, guided trips, lodging at Angel Fire Resort and more. Also this summer, management of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial — the nation’s first memorial to that conflict — will transfer from New Mexico State Parks to the New Mexico Department of Veterans Services. State officials believe the transition will tie in well with the coming construction of a new veterans cemetery in Angel Fire. Continues on 176

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angel fire x Getting to angel fire:

from taos, take kit carson road, continue on U.S. Highway 64 east about 24 miles.

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Courtesy Angel Fire Resort

Stand-up paddle boarding in Angel Fire. Continues from 174

Event Highlights:

Run for the Wall, May 19-20, Vietnam Veterans National Memorial Memorial Day Ceremonies, May 27-29, Vietnam Veterans National Memorial Cool Summer Nights Concert Series, Fridays, June 16-Sept. 1 Art & Farmers’ Market, Sundays, June 18-Sept. 3, a weekly showcase of diverse local/ regional artists, live music, food artisans and fresh produce. Balloons Over Angel Fire, June 16-18. Forty hot-air balloons fill the skies over Angel Fire Father’s Day weekend. Look for a mass ascension Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings and a balloon glow on Saturday evening. Balloon rides will be available for a fee with advanced reservations. Habla Tamale Festival, June

17, features a tamale cook off, tamale-eating contest, Wally and Olly Tamale contest , vendors, kids-zone entertainment, and more. Chile Challenge Pro GRT & Pro XCT Mountain Bike Races, June 23-25 Trash to Treasures Flea Market, July 1-2, benefits Shuter Library in Angel Fire Angel Fire Rotary Club Pancake Breakfast, July 4 ArtsFest, July 7-9, Angel Fire’s premier juried art show featuring talented artists and artisans showcasing paintings, photography, jewelry, weavings, sculptures and other fine arts. Angel Fire Garden Club Tour, July 15. Take a driving tour of gardens at spectacular homes. Texas Shoot Out Team Tennis Tournament, July 22-23 Music from Angel Fire, Aug. 18-Sept. 3. Music from Angel Fire celebrates its 34th

Summer Festival with concerts containing diverse programs, social activities and educational events in the beautiful New Mexico mountain communities of Angel Fire, Taos, Raton and Las Vegas. Food & Wine Round-Up, Aug. 24-27. Angel Fire Food and Wine Roundup is a series of fun events offering guests exceptional cuisine and food products, fine wines, extraordinary artisanal spirits and handcrafted brews. Gravity Games & Brews Festival, Sept. 1-3. Angel Fire Bike Park celebrates mountain biking with fun competitions, great prizes and tons of gravity. Visitor Center, 575.377.6555 or angelfirefun.com Angel Fire Chamber of Commerce, 575.377.6353 or angelfirechamber. org Angel Fire Resort: 800-633-7463, 575.377.6401, angelfireresort.com

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Geraint Smith

Eagle Nest and its namesake lake are cradled by the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the Moreno Valley.

eagle nest what a catch

By Ellen Miller-Goins t must be startling for first-time visitors who come up out of Cimarron Canyon to an overlook of the Moreno Valley and Eagle Nest Lake, glassy and blue, beneath Touch-Me-Not and Baldy peaks. Eagle Nest itself is a laid-back mountain town where traffic, noise and other frenzied signs of city life are unknown. All summer long in Eagle Nest visitors can stroll along Therma Drive (Eagle Nest’s main street), which is no more than a mile long. Shops carry locally made crafts and fine arts, sculpture, sterling silver jewelry, Indian jewelry, antiques, pottery, candies, fudge, clothing, souvenirs, T-shirts and much more. The Eagle Nest Farmers Market, Fridays June through Labor Day at Golden Eagle RV Park, features fresh eggs, meats, cheeses, arts and crafts. Eagle Nest Lake boasts excellent trophy fishing for 182

rainbow trout, kokanee salmon and perch. Anglers can fish from the banks, on a boat or rent a pontoon. Nearby Cimarron Canyon is also excellent for either fly or bait stream fishing. Eagle Nest is also the headquarters for what is arguably some of the best big and small game hunting in America: elk, bear, mountain lion and deer are taken in both public hunt areas and through professional guides on private land. The Moreno Valley is also well known for spring and fall turkey hunts.

x Getting to

EAGLE NEST:

Finding Eagle Nest: From Taos, take Kit Carson Road, continue on State Highway 64 east about 31 miles.

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Event Highlights:

100th Anniversary of Eagle Nest Dam. In 1908, Charles and Frank Springer received a permit for a 140-foot-high concrete dam on the Cimarron River. Construction on the dam, financed entirely by Frank Springer, began in 1916. Charles Springer oversaw the project through to its completion in 1918. Centennial celebration activities and events include history lectures and dam tours on land, boat dam tours, gold panning excursions, self-guided flora and fauna trail walks around the lake, state park interpretive programs and more. Visit the Friends’ website at enl-ccparkfriends.org for more information. Annual Eagle Nest Bear Benefit for the New Mexico Wildlife Center, June 17, features day-long activities including special presentations, pie-eating contest, live music, scavenger hunt, rib cook-off, auction, alpaca, raptors and other animals, food, vendors and more. (575) 377-3382. 4th of July Celebrations kick off is Sat. July 1, with the Nashville to New Mexico Hit Songwriters Concert Series. On Sat. July 2, David Chamberlain presents a “Freedom Don’t Come Free” live concert. Saturday also features a

celebration in the park with vendors, live entertainment, family-friendly events, and a beer and wine garden in Enchanted Eagle Park. July 4 events include the Annual Eagle Nest Volunteer Fire Department Barbecue and Dessert Sale at 11 a.m., parade, at 2 p.m. and fireworks at dusk. Re-opening of the E-Town Museum, July 28-31, featuring live entertainment, “kid-friendly” activities and more. The museum is located 5 miles North of Eagle Nest, on State Highway 38. Almost 140 years after gold was discovered in the Moreno Valley, all that remains of the boomtown that once had 7,000 people are a few homes and the skeletal remains of the Mutz Hotel and the museum. 35th Annual High Country Arts Fest, July 29-30, juried art show, live music, New Mexico True beer and wine garden. Eaglefest Celebration, Aug. 10-13, Live music, fair in the park, Soaring Eagle 5K Fun Run. 26th Annual Fish Fest, Sept. 2-10, Fishing contest with cash prizes, door prizes, raffles, music, fish fry in the park, and the annual worm eating contest at the Laguna Vista. Eagle Nest Chamber: 575.377.2420; eaglenestchamber.org

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Terry Thompson

Memorial Day at Red River brings out bikers by the thousands every year.

red river

Easy breezy summers

By Ellen Miller-Goins housands come back to Red River, year after year, to the same small cabin by the river, the same motel where the owners still know them by name. Mom and pop operations are still the rule here “Ya’ll” is still spoken here. Chicken fried steak is still served alongside enchiladas and green chile burgers. Folks still do-si-do at the Community House, anglers still cast lines up and down the river. Generations still come year after year, to enjoy the cool summer days with an average temperature of 72 degrees. During a brief mining boom, Red River’s population 184

soared to 3,000. The town was formally platted in 1895, but by the early 1900s, Red River was almost deserted. In the 1920s tourists began coming to Red River to escape the Dust Bowl and heat of the panhandle. The addition of the ski area in the late 1950s and a thriving panhandle oil economy changed Red River to a year-round community. Shopping may be one of the favorite activities here, perhaps because of the many shops on and off main street. Explore miles of terrain by horseback riding, mountain biking, 4x4 touring or hiking. Camp in the high country, fish local lakes and streams, rent “surrey-style” bicycles.

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Check out rock climbing, mechanical bull riding, go-karts, bingo, roller skating, miniature golf, a large arcade, pool, tennis and playgrounds in one of the town’s two parks. Red River Ski & Summer Area offers summer mountain tubing, the Pioneer Flyer zip line, Hidden Treasure Aerial Park, Walk with a Ranger mountaintop hikes scenic summer chairlift rides, Music on Top at the Tip Restaurant and Deck, and disc golf at the summit. Red River Community House has a packed summer schedule with 400 family and children activities including daily guided hikes, line dancing lessons, Chill! Teenage

Nights, S’mores and Story Telling, Movies on the Lawn, Nature Discovery Camp, music concerts, and more. redrivercommunityhouse.org. And there is no shortage of music filling the air in this town. Iconic singer/songwriter Michael Martin Murphey (“Wildfire,” “Carolina in the Pines” and “Geronimo’s Cadillac,” just to name a few of his hits) calls Red River his “spiritual home,” and for the fifth consecutive year will return to perform at his Chuckwagon Shows at the Rocking 3M Amphitheater located at the historic Lazy H Guest Ranch on Bitter Creek Road. The live performances and chuckwagon-style dinners

are scheduled from late June through Labor Day weekend. For more information, visit michaelmartinmurphey.com. The Little Red Schoolhouse on Jayhawk Trail behind the Red River Library educated local children until the early ‘40s. Today, as a museum, it houses school desks, memorabilia, photos and lots of artifacts from Red River’s past. Next door, the Brigham John Young house, which is owned and operated by former Red River resident Harold Young of Albuquerque, houses Young family memorabilia and artifacts dating back to when the family first came to Red River in 1892. Continues on 186

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red river x Getting to red river:

About a 36-mile drive from Taos, take Paseo del Pueblo Norte/U.S. Highway 64 west. Continue on State Highway 522 north toward Questa. Turn right onto State Highway 38 east, which will take you right into town.

Continues from 184

Event Highlights:

Memorial Day Motorcycle Rally, May 25-29. Classic Car Show, June 2-3. Art & Wine Festival, June 16-18, in Brandenburg Park. 4th Of July Parade & Celebration. The day begins at 10 a.m. with the largest parade in Northern New Mexico, followed by a full day of family-friendly activities all over town. Wags & Wine, July 28- 29, will celebrate two of our favorite things, our furry friends and wine! â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nightsâ&#x20AC;? Music Festival & Cook-off, Aug. 17-20. Dulcimer Festival, Aug. 5-6, Red River Community House. Enchanted Circle Century Bike Tour, Sept. 10. A 100-mile ride around the Enchanted Circle that includes a short trip through Angel Fire to Black Lake and back. Bluegrass Festival, Sept. 14-17, Red River Community House. Aspencade Arts & Crafts Fair and Folk Music Festival, Sept. 22-23. Oktoberfest, Oct. 6-8, featuring authentic German food and music, arts and crafts exhibitors, microbreweries and wineries, food vendors, and family friendly activities. Red River Chamber, 575.754.2366 or redriverchamber.org; Red River Conference Center, 575.754.1708 or redriver.org.

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Courtesy LC Media

Iconic singer/songwriter Michael Martin Murphey returns to Red River this summer to perform at his Rocking 3M Chuckwagon Dinner Show.

H IDDEN T REASURES • P IONEER F LYER • S CENIC C HAIRLIFT • T IP R ESTAURANT www.redriverskiarea.com @REDRIVERSKIAREA #RRSA

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questa

Serene and unspoiled

his tiny, historic village, on the northwest shoulder of the Enchanted Circle, is undergoing an awakening. After its main source of income ended in 2014 with the closing of the Chevronowned molybdenum mine,

long-neglected qualities have blossomed. What local Taos County residents have always known is that the unspoiled outdoors surrounding Questa offer some of the most dramatic and serene hiking, camping and fishing in Northern New

Questa tourism courtesy photo/Photo by Tommy Lyles

Eagle Rock Lake

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Mexico. Just a half-hour drive north of Taos, Questa makes for a great getaway for the afternoon, or longer. Questa is a good jumping off point for excursions into the the Río Grande del Norte National Monument whether by foot or all-terrain

vehicles. This ‘Wild Rivers’ area is where the Red River joins the Río Grande in its deep and dramatic gorge and is maintained by the Bureau of Land Management. Anglers will love Eagle Rock Lake on the east side of Questa and the section of

the Red River that feeds into and out of the lake. With mountain lakes up above and two river chasms to fish for northern pike and several varieties of trout below, Questa is an angler’s paradise for sure. Continues on 192

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Questa Lumber & Hardware Co. Questa Co. Questa Lumber Lumber& & Hardware Co. Look for our

Look for our new full service new full service service new full Hardware Hardware and and store store and Lumber Lumber yardyard at yard 2349 St. Hwy 522 Opening Soon!Soon! Opening (Next to Family Dollar)

575-586-0414

575-586-0414 575-586-0561

575-586-0561 575-586-0419

575-586-0419 575-586-1440

575-586-1440

Visit all your Visit usus forfor all your hard-toVisit us for all your hard-tofind seasonal, contracting hard-to-find seasonal, and find homeseasonal, repair needs. We contracting contracting, and home haveand the experience to get home repair needs. We the job done our repair Wefamily haveto get haveneeds. thewith experience of stores: Questa Lumber & the job done with our family the experience to get Hardware Co., Northstar of stores: Questa Lumber & Tire Center, CarQuesta, the job done with and our Questa Small Engine Hardware Co.,Works. Northstar family of stores. Personalized service is our Tire Center, CarQuesta, and Questa Small Engine Works. Personalized service Personalized service is our is our number one number one priority! number one priority!

priority!

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questa Getting to questa:

About 24 miles from Taos, take Paseo del Pueblo Norte/U.S. Highway 64 to State Highway 522 north.

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Geraint Smith

La Junta Trail at Wild Rivers Recreation Area near Questa, part of Río Grande del Norte National Monument. Continues from 190

In the heart of town is the restored San Antonio church. This historic, adobe structure has stood at the heart of the village since the mid-1800s. “Questa” was an Anglo attempt at simplification but became an official misspelling of the Spanish “cuesta,” referring to the “inclines” on the south of town and the ridge where the old church plaza stands. A new generation of artists and craftspeople are creating quite a name for this rugged community via some very sophisticated special events including the Wild Rivers Plein Air Paint-Out June 2224. Artists congregate at the Wild Rivers Recreation Park in Questa to paint outside

during this second annual event. On June 22, the event begins with canvas stamping at Sheep’s Crossing (the first park turnout) from 6-9 a.m. Artist R. Gregory Summers will hold a demonstration at a time and place to be announced. A meet and greet pot luck will be held at El Aguaje Campground from 5-7 p.m. On June 23, stamping will continue at OCHO Gallery in Questa from 6-9 a.m. Artist Carrie Schultz will hold a demonstration at a time and place to be announced and painting demonstrations will be held all around the Questa area, including at the historic St. Anthony’s Church. On June 24, an opening reception and awards ceremony will

be held at OCHO Gallery in Questa from 5-7 p.m. The OCHO Gallery show will run June 24-July 23. For more information, go online to wildriverspleinair.com, or facebook.com/ Wild-Rivers-Plein-Air-PaintOut-173054286401478/. Speaking of the arts, Questa’s Studio Tour, “Where Artistic Traditions Meet,” will be held Aug. 1920. From 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day, local “far-fling” artists and more from surrounding communities open their studios or gather in satellite locations throughout the village featuring their traditional and contemporary artwork. More details are available online at questastudiotour.com.

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“The new map is a fantastic tool to plan your next trip to Taos. It’s looks amazing!” ~Michelle Hammer, Supervisor, Taos Visitor Center

The Taos Map was designed by locals in the know. We know the main arteries going through town and the back roads. We feature the businesses, institutions and attractions tourists and locals need to find. With one simple click online you can hyperlink to the business websites. And unlike Google Maps, we won’t leave you in the middle of the mesa or a ditch! Find the fiber edition of the map at 500 locations throughout Taos and Northern New Mexico or find it online at taosnews.com/maps.

TAOSMAP

Call 575.758.2241, and we will mail you the map for free!

THE TAOS NEWS discovertaos.com /// Summer/Fall 2017

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Calendar summer/fall 2017

Katharine Egli

Mystic Dance performs under the gazebo on Taos Plaza during the 2016 Fiestas de Santiago y Santa Ana.

ONGOING JUNE THROUGH SEPTEMBER

Scenic Summer Chairlift Rides In Red River, (575) 754-2223, redriverskiarea.com. At Taos Ski Valley (rides on Chair 4 run from June 24-Sept. 17 at The Bavarian from 9 a.m.-4 p.m.), (575) 7762291, taosskivalley.com

LATE JUNE THROUGH LABOR DAY WEEKEND

Michael Martin Murphey’s Chuckwagon Shows For the fifth consecutive year, the iconic singer/songwriter returns to Red River to perform at his Rocking 3M Amphitheater at the historic Lazy H Guest Ranch on Bitter Creek Road. For more information 210

and updated schedule, visit michaelmartinmurphey.com.

JUNE 3-SEPT. 17

“The Errant Eye: Portraits in a Landscape” A wide-ranging selection of portraits in various mediums from The Harwood Museum of Art permanent collection surveys the role of the portrait in Taos arts, explores its evolving roles as an art form and demonstrates the power of portraiture to capture the human condition. (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum.org

JUNE 8-JULY 1

Taos Opera Institute Festival TOI is celebrating its 10th year presenting an opera festival featuring 17 free classical music performances open to the public in Taos County and Santa Fe with two

Summer/Fall 2017 /// discovertaos.com

performing groups. Festival kicks off June 8 with a free Cantos de Taos performance at Pizaños Italian restaurant and continues through the month with performances at churches, restaurants, galleries and private homes. The final performance is the 10th Annual TOI Gala on July 1 at the Taos Center for the Arts. Full schedule is available at taosOI.org.

JUNE 12 THROUGH AUGUST

Bingo in the Park. The Red River Chamber of Commerce sponsors all-ages Bingo games Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays starting at 6 p.m. under the pavilion in Brandenburg Park. (575) 7542366, redriver.org

JUNE 16-SEPT. 1

The Cool Summer Nights Concert Series at Frontier Park

in Angel Fire is a free night of live music from regional acts along with a Kids’ Zone with giant Jenga, cornhole, face painting and games. Beer from Enchanted Circle Brewing Company and food is available for purchase. Bring your own lawn chairs and blankets, 5:30-7:30 p.m. For more, go online to angelfirecoolsummer.com.

JUNE 18-AUG. 6

Chamber Music Festival This year marks the 55th season of the Taos School of Music event. Summer faculty will perform at Taos Community Auditorium. They are the Borromeo String Quartet, ensemble-in-residence at the New England Conservatory of Music; the Shanghai Quartet; the Brentano String Quartet, now in residence at Yale School of Music; and pianists Robert McDonald and Thomas Sauer. The summer season also

features concerts performed by the program’s 19 young artists in Taos and Taos Ski Valley. For a performance schedule and to order tickets, visit the website taosschoolofmusic.com.

JUNE 24-JULY 23

Wild Rivers Plein Air PaintOut “Images of the Questa Area” show at OCHO Gallery, 8 State Highway 38, Questa. Hours are 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Friday through Sunday. wildriverspleinair.com, ochozone.org

JULY 12-AUG. 16

SOMOS Summer Writers Series Sponsored by SOMOS (Society of the Muse of the Southwest). Held at The Harwood Museum of Art in Taos. somostaos.org Eagle Nest Lake Dam Tours By land: Enchanted Circle Gateway Museum, (575) 377-1504. By

boat: New Mexico State Parks, (575) 377-1594; Eagle Nest Adventures, (575) 252-3252 Gold panning excursions Enchanted Circle Museum, (575) 377-6700

AUG. 18-SEPT. 3

Music from Angel Fire celebrates its 34th Summer Music Festival featuring numerous chamber music events taking place in Angel Fire, Taos, Raton and Las Vegas. The full program is available online at musicfromangelfire.org.

MONTH OF AUGUST

Taos Ski Valley Arts Festival Check out and shop dozens of local and regional artists work, enjoy live music, food and the children’s craft tent. Held by the Bavarian Lodge below Chair 4. Free admission. Dates in mid-August to be announced. Check for updated information online at skitaos.com/ event/taosart/.

EVERY MONDAY

Kate and Billy’s Medicine Show. Adobe Bar at The Historic Taos Inn, 6:30-9:30 p.m. (575) 758-2233, taosinn.com Solar Country Mondays at the KTAOS Solar Center. Free live, two-stepping music with local musicians, all ages, 7-9 p.m. (575) 758-5826, ktao.com

EVERY TUESDAY

Open Mic Night at Black Mesa Winery —Taos Tasting Room, 6-9 p.m. (505) 8522820, blackmesawinery.com

EVERY OTHER TUESDAY Irish Tune Session. A twice-monthly free, informal gathering featuring traditional Irish music at Eske’s Brew Pub, 7 p.m. (575) 758-1517, eskesbrewpub. com

EVERY WEDNESDAY

Red Willow Farm Farmer’s Market. Weekly local and sustainably grown produce; using organic seeds and no till methods. Local 501(c)3 nonprofit demonstration farm, located at Taos Pueblo, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. (575) 770-1362 Movies on the Green. The town of Taos hosts free movie screenings (May 24-Sept. 27) from 6-10 p.m. (films start at dusk) at Kit Carson Park with a Kid

Taos News file photo

The Red Willow Farmers Market is held every Wednesday at Taos Pueblo.

Zone area. Concessions available, taosgov.com. Bluegrass/ Old-time String Jam. All experience levels are welcome. If you can play in G, A, or D, you should be good to go. Free admission. At Eske’s Brew Pub & Eatery, 6:30-9:30 p.m. (575) 758-1517, eskesbrewpub.com Jimmy Stadler. Local favorite plays rock, folk and more at Sabroso Restaurant & Bar in Arroyo Seco. No cover, 6:30-9:30 p.m. (575) 776-3333, sabrosotaos.com

EVERY THURSDAY

Taos Plaza Live! Every week all summer long (May 25-Aug. 31), free live music, 6 p.m. at Historic Taos Plaza. No performance on July 20. taoschamber.com Ladies Night With Katie P and the Business. Come and dance the night away to the hottest local party band in Taos. Ladies free/guys $5. At KTAOS Solar Center, 9-11:45 p.m. (575) 758-5826, ktao.com.

EVERY FRIDAY

Eagle Nest Farmer’s Market 9 a.m.-2 p.m. held at 540 W. Therma. (575) 377-6188 Friday Night Golf Scramble

at Angel Fire Resort, 800-6337463, angelfireresort.com. Live music featuring local musicians at Black Mesa Winery —Taos Tasting Room, 6-9 p.m. (505) 852-2820, blackmesawinery.com Laura Bulkin. Originally from New York, Bulkin plays a rich selection of great music, from the 1920s and 1930s to present. Enjoy favorites such as Cole Porter, Sondheim, Rodgers and Hammerstein, Beatles, jazz, pop and much more at Sabroso Restaurant & Bar in Arroyo Seco. No cover, 6:30-9:30 p.m. (575) 776-3333, sabrosotaos.com

EVERY SATURDAY

Taos Farmers Market offers a large variety of fresh, local vegetables and fruits as well as cheeses and other dairy products, baked goods, honey, grass-fed meats, eggs, jams, chutneys, flowers and plants — plus live music from 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. in the Historic Taos Plaza. The market runs May 13 through Oct. 28. (575) 751-7575, taosfarmersmarket.org Live music featuring local musicians at Black Mesa Winery —Taos Tasting Room, 6-9 p.m. (505) 852-2820, blackmesawinery.com

EVERY SUNDAY

Muskrat and Meredith Garcia fill the public areas of Taos Inn. (575) 758-2052, tcataos.org

Questa Farmers Market (June 11-Oct. 1) is a seasonal outdoor market in Questa’s Village Center created and led by community members. Hours are noon-4 p.m. Jazz Night with Christine Autumn at The Alley Cantina, 7:30 -9:30 p.m. (575) 758-2121, alleycantina.com

MAY MAY 13

ONGOING EXHIBITS MAY 22-JULY 9

Annual Self Portrait Exhibition The Encore Gallery of Taos Center for the Arts. A juried show of artworks in all mediums by Taos artists, all depicting the artist himself/herself. One of TCA’s most popular shows. (575) 758-2052, tcataos.org

NOW THROUGH JUNE 5 TCA Exhibits at Taos Inn: Sublime to Surreal The Historic Taos Inn. Photographs by Birgit Gutsch and Heather Ross. (575) 758-2052, tcataos.org

JUNE 5-SEPT. 11

TCA Exhibits at Taos Inn: The Historic Taos Inn New work by Taos artists, Tera

“Transcending Time” Harwood Museum of Art, Arthur Bell Auditorium, Taos, 5:30 p.m. Taos Chamber Music Group’s season concludes with a multimedia collaboration with optics artist Ethan Jackson and also features young artists. Admission $25 for adults; $12 for children under 16 and students. (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum.org

MAY 19-21

Taos Lilac Festival Friday (May 19), 11 a.m.-6 p.m.; Saturday (May 20), 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday (May 21), 10 a.m.-5 p.m. The Grand Festival weekend at Kit Carson Park includes a pet parade and costume contest; live entertainment; children’s carousel; food and crafts vendors and many family-friendly activities. Lilacs flourish abundantly in Taos and peak the last two weeks of May. A lilac walking tour map of the Taos Historic District and maps showing the lilac-decorated windows are Continues on 212

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The annual Glam Trash Fashion Show held in August in Taos is a popular event among locals and visitors alike. Youth and adults create imaginative outfits from everyday trash items. It is a way to celebrate creativity while bringing up issues of waste and consumption. Continued from page 211

available at the information booth in Kit Carson Park. taoslilacfestival.com 47th Spring Arts & Crafts Fair 10 a.m.-5 p.m. A variety of talented artists and craftsmen offer their unique, handmade items during this annual fair. This year, the fair is incorporated into the Taos Lilac Festival. Held at Kit Carson Park. (575) 751-8800, taoschamber.org

MAY 20

High Mountain Half Marathon & 5k Challenge yourself at this event with a race or fun run through Red River’s beautiful Upper Valley. (575) 754-1708, redriver.org

MAY 21

Legends of Taos Series, 212

Ted Egri 5-7 p.m. Opening of a miniretrospective featuring 2- and 3-dimensional works from the artist’s estate. Showing at 203 Fine Art. (575) 751-1262, art@203fineart.com

MAY 26-29

Memorial Day Motorcycle Rally Get ready for the rumble as 20,000 bikers from all different backgrounds line Main Street in Red River for one crazy party. Join in the 25-mile parade to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Angel Fire on Monday. Live music can be found all over Red River, along with vendors carrying everything from leather and lace, to food and fun. (575) 754-2366, redriver.org

MAY 27

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“Saint Joan” Taos Community Auditorium,11 a.m., Gemma Arterton is Joan of Arc in Josie Rourke’s production of Bernard Shaw’s classic play. Tickets are $15 for TCA members, $18 for nonmembers and $10 for youth 17 and under. (575) 758-4677, tcataos.org

MAY 27-28

Demo Daze At Angel Fire Bike Park — the only lift-access summer bike demo in the Southwest. Vendors of DX, Xc and Enduro bikes converge for two free days of daily bike demos, Enlightment’s XC/Enduro-style Trails and food and beer. 800-633-7463, angelfireresort.com

MAY 27-29

Taos Quilting and Needlecraft Show

An annual Memorial Day weekend exhibit of handmade quilts and other needlecraft artwork. Presented by the Taos High Country Quilting and Needlecraft Guild at Stables Art Gallery. Hours are Saturday 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; and Monday 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Reception is Saturday, 4-6 p.m. (575) 758-2052, tcataos.org, facebook.com/ groups/243870745961404/

MAY 29

Memorial Day Weekend Ceremonies 11 a.m. Veterans and their friends and families gather from across the country to honor fallen soldiers from the Vietnam War. Flag march, service and speakers at Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park, Angel Fire. Morning motorcycle run from Red River. (575) 377-2293,

vietnamveteransmemorial.org

JUNE JUNE 2-3

Red River Classic Car Show 10 a.m.-4 p.m. This annual car show at Brandenburg Park in Red River features all years, makes and models of the hottest roadsters in the region. Night parades, Hula Hoop contests, bubble gum-blowing contests, cake walks and road rally. (575) 754-2366, redriver.org

JUNE 2-4

Music on the Mesa Fest Doors open at 11 a.m., music beings at noon. Three-day music festival featuring Elephant Revival, Robert Randolph and the Family Band, Railroad Earth

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Scott Gerdes

Clockwise from left: Inside the Blumenschein Home and Museum; the territorial-style home of Kit Carson contains many family artifacts; Millicent Rogers Museum includes 15 galleries showcasing Native American arts, Hispanic arts and crafts, Roger’s 1,000-piece silver and turquoise jewelry collection, some of her haute couture clothing and ceramics created by famed potter Maria Martinez; and contemporary art is one of many styles represented at The Harwood Museum of Art.

and more at Taos Mesa Brewing Mothership. (575) 758-1900, taosmusiconthemesa.com

JUNE 9

J.H. Sharp Studio Gala Opening 4 p.m. Grand opening of Joseph Henry Sharp’s — co-founding member of the Taos Society of Artists — newly restored second studio and the permanent interpretive exhibition dedicated to his life and work. Free and open to the public. The Couse-Sharp Historic Site, Taos. (575) 751-0369, couse-sharp.org

JUNE 10

5th Biennial Couse-Sharp Gala and Art Auction 5:30 p.m. An elegant evening that includes a wine and hors d’oeuvres reception, silent and live auctions, followed by live music and gourmet dinner at El Monte Sagrado, Taos. (575) 751-0369, couse-sharp.org 4th Annual Blues, Brews and Bikes Fest 9-11 p.m. A live music event featuring seven groups to benefit

The Freedom in Music Project held at Taos Mesa Brewing Mothership, admission $22. (575) 758-1900, taosmesabrewing.com

JUNE 13

San Antonio Feast Day 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. A religious ceremony at Taos Pueblo featuring traditional Corn Dances. No cameras or recording devices allowed. (575) 758-1028, taospueblo.com. Also held at St. Anthony Church in Questa. (575) 586-0470, facebook.com/save.church

JUNE 15-17

Taos Poetry Festival Presented by SOMOS (Society of the Muse of the Southwest) and held at Taos Community Auditorium. (575) 758-0081, somostaos.org

JUNE 16-17

Red River Art and Wine Festival 10 a.m.-5 p.m. This annual event features wine tastings, fine art, pottery, photography, silent auction and live music. Held at Brandenburg Park. (575) 754-2366, redriver.org

Balloons Over Angel Fire Early morning daily Mass Ascension begins at 8,600 feet elevation at 7 a.m. and 40 balloons float over the Moreno Valley, creating a colorful hot air balloon display. Balloon Glow Saturday at 9 p.m. Free admission. 866-668-7787, balloonsoverangelfire.com, angelfirefun.com

JUNE 17

Bear Benefit Begins at 9 a.m. Events and activities planned for the whole day: Pie-eating contest, hot dogs, live music, door prizes, scavenger hunt, food, vendors, grilling contest, auction, animals, family fun at Enchanted Eagle Park in Eagle Nest. eaglenestchamber.org Not Forgotten Poker Run and Benefit Concert 4-11 p.m. Live music by Hard Fall Hearts and a “Poker Run” to benefit the veterans organization Not Forgotten Outreach. Held at Taos Mesa Brewing Mothership. Admission $10. (575) 758-1900, taosmesabrewing.com

Eagle Nest Bear Benefit Rib cook-off, baking contest, auctions, wildlife education, music, dancing and vendors. All proceeds benefit the New Mexico Wildlife Center. (575) 377-3382, facebook.com/Annual-Eagle-NestBear-Benefit-602023863256984/ Habla Tamale Cook-off and Festival 10 a.m.- 6 p.m. Everything tamale featuring a cook-off contest, vendors, music and other entertainment. Held in Angel Fire. (575) 377-6353, 800-446-8117, hablatamale.com, angelfirechamber. org

JUNE 22-24

Wild Rivers Plein Air Paint-Out Artists congregate at the Wild Rivers Recreation Park in Questa to paint outside during this second annual event, which features painting outside and demonstrations For a full schedule of events, go online to wildriverspleinair.com, or facebook. com/Wild-Rivers-Plein-Air-PaintOut-173054286401478/.

JUNE 23-25

Chile Challenge races The Chile Challenge Pro Mountain Bike Races returns with both the Pro GRT and Pro XCT national mountain bike racing tours stopping at Angel Fire Bike Park for the third round of the USAC Pro GRT series as well as the sixth round of the USAC Pro XCT. 800-633-7463, angelfireresort.com

JUNE 24

Toast of Taos Wine Festival and Golf Tournament Golf tournament starts at 9 a.m. at Taos Country Club followed at 2 p.m. with wine tastings, music, silent art auction and gourmet food. For more information about the golf tournament, call (575) 758-7300. taoslions.org, taoslions@gmail.com San Juan Feast Day 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. A religious ceremony at Taos Pueblo featuring traditional Corn Dances. Sunrise Mass at San Geronimo Church. No cameras or recording devices allowed. (575) 758-1028, taospueblo.com Continues on 214

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The annual Taos Pueblo Powwow, which takes place during the second weekend in July, offers a stunning example of Native tradition and colorful pageantry. See story on page 50. Continues from 213

JUNE 24-25

Rodeo de Taos Sat., 2 p.m.; Sun., 3 p.m. Fiftieth annual rodeo held at the Taos County Sheriff’s Posse Arena in Taos. newmexicorodeoassociation.org.

JULY

JULY 1-2

Trash to Treasures Annual flea market in Angel Fire at Shuter Library. (575) 377-6755, shuterlibrary.net

JULY 1-4

Eagle Nest 4th of July Celebration 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Live entertainment kicked off with Nashville to New Mexico Hit Songwriters Series and family-orientated events, food, 214

crafts, beer and wine garden in Enchanted Eagle Park on July 1. On July 2, family activities, vendor’s fair and live music at Enchanted Eagle Park. Festivities continue July 3 at Enchanted Eagle Park and along Therma Drive. The annual fireworks show over Eagle Nest Lake to be held the evening of July 4, and the Annual Parade and Fireman’s BarB-Q will be at 2 p.m. and 11 a.m., respectively. (575) 377-2420, eaglenestchamber.org

JULY 4

Arroyo Seco Parade Noon. Since 1996, the tiny, quaint village of Arroyo Seco (seven miles north of Taos on State Road 150) has been hosting an annual Fourth of July parade that is often described as the “best, quirkiest, shortest, craziest, highest attended, and most fun.” Spectators start arriving by 9

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a.m., and most chairs are set up by 10 a.m. arroyoseco.com Taos Ski Valley 4th of July Celebration 1-5 p.m. After the famous Arroyo Seco parade, climb to cooler temperatures along State Road 150 north to Taos Ski Valley. Gather mid-mountain at The Bavarian outdoor deck and restaurant where this small village celebrates the 4th of July. The scenic chair lift will run above rolling hills of wild flowers to the base of Kachina Peak. (575) 776-1413, 800-517-9816, taosskivalley.com Red River 4th of July Parade and Picnic The 77th annual Independence Day parade is heralded as the largest parade in Northern New Mexico, followed by a full day of familyfriendly activities all around town.

(575) 754-2366, redriver.org Town of Taos Fireworks Show After dark (approximately 9:30 p.m.) A professional fireworks show sponsored by the Taos Volunteer Fire Department can be seen from all over the valley.

JULY 7-9

32 Annual Taos Pueblo Powwow A weekend of beautiful indigenous competition of dancing and singing with arts and crafts vendors, and food vendors. 800-285-6344, taospueblopowwow.com

JULY 8-9

Angel Fire ArtsFest 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat.; 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun. Artist converge from all over the Southwest to display works in a juried art show during this 36th

annual event. artup-nnm.org

JULY 15

Old-Fashioned Fandango Celebrate the Río Grande region culture and tradition at La Hacienda de los Martinez in Taos with Southwest musicians, Bailes Sociales, chotis, valse and varsoviana. Check online at martinezhacienda.org or call (575) 758-1000 for schedule updates.

JULY 21-23

Las Fiestas de Taos A centuries old fiesta celebrating the gathering of generations to enjoy delicious cuisine, traditional music and fellowship, while honoring the cultural uniqueness of Taos. At Historic Taos Plaza. fiestasdetaos. com, fiestas@newmex.com

JULY 25-26

Santiago and Santa Ana

Feast Days 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Religious ceremonies to celebrate fertility and summer abundance featuring traditional Corn Dances at Taos Pueblo. No cameras or recording devices allowed. (575) 758-1028, taospueblo.com

angelfirefoodandwine.com

AUG. 26

An August Night in Taos Fundraising party, live and silent auction, music, fine cuisine and cocktails at and for the Taos Art Museum at Fechin House. (575) 758-2690, taosartmuseum.org

JULY 29-30

35th Annual High Country Arts Fest Juried artisans and craftsmen from across the country offer their one-of-a-kind creations at Enchanted Eagle Nest Park in Eagle Nest. Food vendors, youth exhibits, live music, wine tasting and beer garden plus a whole lot more. Indoor and outdoor event. (575) 377-2420, eaglenestchamber.org

SEPTEMBER SEPT. 2

Glam Trash Fashion Show 4-6 p.m. The eclectic, fun Glam Trash Fashion Show combines art, recycling and fashion into a “glamtastic” all ages, nonprofit annual event at the Historic Taos Plaza. facebook.com/ glamtrashfashion/

JULY 29

Wags & Wine 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Sat. Two favorite things celebrated together at this inaugural event held at Brandenburg Park in Red River. Some Saturday activities include Doggy Bake Sale, The Grand Fur Ball, vendors and wine tastings. A “Yappy Hour” will be held on Friday, July 28 at 5 p.m. at Mountain Treasures on Main Street. All donations go toward funding a town of Red River dog park. (575) 754-2366, redriver.org

AUGUST AUG. 4

Red River Valley Buckaroo Ball 5-8 p.m. An evening of BBQ, live music, dancing, and silent and live auctions at the Red River Conference Center to benefit the Red River Community Fund. Wear your Western attire for a night of food, festivities and fundraising. (575) 754-1708, redrivervalleyfoundation. org

AUG. 5

Taos Garden & Home Tour 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Hosted by the Los Jardineros Garden Club of Taos. No children under 12 allowed on the tour. No pets. No interior photography. Admission $20. For tour venues, go online to gardencluboftaos.org. Up & Over 10K Trail Run 9 a.m. A challenging and scenic 6.2-mile climb of 2,612 feet complete with breathtaking views of Kachina and Wheeler peaks. Race begins at Taos Ski Valley’s The Bavarian restaurant and ends at the base of Chair 4. Rain or shine.

SEPT. 2-3

Courtesy dwightyoakam.com

Country music stars Dwight Yoakam and The Mavericks will perform on July 29 at Kit Carson Park in Taos. The gates open at 5:30 p.m. Show starts at 7 p.m. Tickets are $52 per person; $9 for children 12 and under. Purchase tickets online at holdmyticket.com or ampconcerts.org.

(575) 776-1413, 800-517-9816, taosskivalley.com Open House, Studios and Garden 3-5 p.m. Enjoy a stroll through the beautiful vintage gardens of Virginia Couse at the Couse-Sharp Historic Site. (575) 751-0369, couse-sharp.org Turquoise Gala Highly attended fundraiser and auction for Millicent Rogers Museum. Held at the Sagebrush Inn and Conference Center. (575) 758-2462, millicentrogers.org

Enchanted Eagle Park featuring live music. (575) 377-2486, eaglenestchamber.org

AUG. 11-12

Taos Pride Pride in the Park festivities at Kit Carson Park and annual parade. Pride in the Park and parade times will be announced in June. Check online at taospride.org for schedule updates.

AUG. 16-19

San Lorenzo Feast Day Celebrated at Picuris Pueblo. picurispueblo.org

Larry Joe Taylor’s 21st Annual Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Live music all weekend with Larry Joe Taylor & Friends, then multiple cook-offs in Red River’s Brandenburg Park on Saturday, (Aug. 19). Cook-offs include the CASI “Red River Red” cook-off, the New Mexico State Green Chile Championship and the Lone Star BBQ Society cook-off. Music venues all over town like the top of the mountain at the Red River Ski & Summer Area, the Lost Love Saloon, Brandenburg Park and the historic Motherlode Saloon. (254) 698-8505, office@larryjoetaylor. com, larryjoetaylor.com

AUG. 10-13

AUG. 19-20

AUG. 5-6

Red River Dulcimer Festival This annual festival offers workshops for all manner of stringed instruments at the Red River Community House. The event is free, although a donation is requested for lunch provided. There will be concerts throughout the festival. (575) 754-2349, redriver.org

AUG. 10

EagleFest 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Second annual town-wide fair in Eagle Nest at

Questa Studio Tour 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Local artists from Lama to El Rito/Latir open their

studios or gather in satellite locations throughout Questa featuring traditional and contemporary artwork to kick off the Northern New Mexico studio tour season. (505) 974-5314, questastudiotour. com

AUG. 22

Viva La Musica! 5:30-9 p.m. Dress in your finest Spanish attire, revel in an evening of traditional Spanish cuisine and the passion of Flamenco dance and music at the Music From Angel Fire-related event to benefit Northern New Mexico music. Held at Old Martina’s Restaurant and Hall in Ranchos de Taos. This elegant evening includes a 3-course meal, wine, silent auction and wine pull. The night will feature the return of Yjastros: the American Flamenco Repertory Company alongside the music of Gabriela Lena Frank. Dinner package includes a reserved seat at the performance. musicfromangelfire.org

AUG. 24-27

Angel Fire Food & Wine Roundup 8 a.m.-5 p.m. A series of fun events offering guests exceptional cuisine and food products, fine wines, extraordinary artisanal spirits and handcrafted brews with a Western flare. (505) 470-6012,

Chama Valley Studio Tour 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Artists from the Río Chama Valley open their studios to the public. Maps available online and at stops on the tour. Look for green-numbered signs. Lodging and restaurants in downtown Chama. (575) 756-2542, chamavalleystudiotour.com

SEPT. 2-4

TAO Studio Tour 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Throughout Taos, peruse and shop for original art at the working studios of local artists. taosartistorg.org, taosartistorganization@gmail.com Labor Day Arts & Crafts Festival Local and regional artisans gather at Kit Carson Park in Taos. (575) 751-8800, taos.org

SEPT. 2-10

25th Annual Fish Fest Eagle Nest Lake in Eagle Nest. A fish fry will be held Sept. 9. (575) 3776941, eaglenestchamber.org

SEPT. 7-9

Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance Michael Hearne’s 15th Annual Big Barn Dance Music Festival takes place in Taos’ Kit Carson Park, features country and Americana music and includes a songwriting workshop and dance lessons. Tickets on sale June 1. For full schedule go online to michaelhearne.com/ bigbarndance.

SEPT. 9-10

19th Annual Río Costilla Valley Studio Tour Continues on 216

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10 a.m.-5 p.m. A thriving group of artists and craftspeople living in the watershed of the Río Costilla open their homes and studios at the southern edge of the San Luis Valley of southern Colorado and Northern New Mexico. Also featured is the 9th Annual Emerging Artists Show and the spectacular, blooming wildflower fields in the area. riocostillaart.com

SEPT. 10

Enchanted Circle Century Bike Tour Cyclists take on the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway for one of the most challenging 100-mile tours in the Southwest. Riders can also opt for shorter treks of 25 and 50 miles. (575) 754-2366, redriverchamber. org

SEPT. 14-17

43rd Annual Bluegrass and Old Time Music Festival Held at the Red River Community House in Red River, this year’s lineup includes the Grammynominated headliner Blue Highway, old-time headliner Soda Rock Ramblers and bluegrass regional band FY5, plus more. (575) 754-2349, southwestpickers.org, redriver.org

SEPT. 16

Oktoberfest at Taos Ski Valley Noon-4 p.m. Authentic Schuplatter band, German beer and food, activities for kids and much more. Held at the Bavarian Restaurant. This is a free event for all ages. skitaos.com/event/oktoberfest/ NeoRio 4-9 p.m. With this year’s theme of “Seeds — Semillas,” explore seedinspired art installations on the rim of the Río Grande Gorge, followed by NeoRio’s featured artist talks and an art-filled evening celebration of music, poetry and a locally sourced feast at the Montoso Campground in the Wild Rivers Recreation Area, Río Grande del Norte National Monument. Free. leapsite.org

SEPT. 16-24

19th Annual High Road Art Tour 216

This two-consecutive weekend event features the work of artists living along the High Road to the Taos Scenic Byway, a back-country, scenic road between Taos and Santa Fe. The route begins north of Santa Fe in Pojoaque, New Mexico, at the intersection of U.S. highways 285/84 and State Road 503. On both weekends during the tour there will be farmers’ markets set up at Gaucho Blue in Peñasco and at the High Road Art Gallery in Truchas. There will also be some farm locations open to the public throughout the two weekends. Download a tour brochure with map at highroadnewmexico.com. 800-866-8643

SEPT. 22-24

Aspencade Arts and Crafts Fair Browse through booths of hand-crafted items, jewelry, home furnishings, food, art, pottery, and specialty goods while you enjoy delicious food, live entertainment, and the crisp air and changing colors of fall in Red River. Held at Brandenburg Park and Red River Conference Center. redriver.org Red River Folk Music Festival The third annual music festival lineup includes well-known Americana, country, bluegrass and folk musicians. For more details on the schedule and venues, go online to redriverfolk.com.

SEPT. 22-23

The PASEO 5-10 p.m. Throughout the Taos Historic District, this popular free outdoor event features multimedia art with an international, juried affair of installations, sculptures, projections and performances bursting out of every open space along the main thoroughfare, tying together the multiple venues of the Taos Fall Arts Festival. Workshops held Saturday from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. paseoproject.org

SEPT. 22-OCT. 1

43rd Annual Taos Fall Arts Festival All day. The oldest art festival in Taos and one of the most comprehensive art shows of the

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year held at various locations throughout Taos. Includes the Taos Select and Taos Open. taosfallarts. com

SEPT 23-24

Drew Judycki Memorial Disc Golf Tournament An 18-hole disc golf tourney at the top of the Red River Ski Area. Win cash and prizes in this annual tournament honoring the late Drew Judycki, long-time owner of the ski area. (575) 754-2223, redriverskiarea.com

p.m. Sunday. This part-festival, part-arts and crafts fair returns to Kit Carson Park in Taos featuring traditional and contemporary fiber art and demonstrations. Also in attendance are llamas and sheep. taoswoolfestival.org

OCT. 7-9

San Geronimo Eve Vespers At Taos Pueblo. (575) 758-1028, taospueblo.com

Abiquiú Studio Tour 10 a.m.-5 p.m. The annual Columbus Day weekend Abiquiú Studio Tour is a self-guided, driving tour that takes visitors and collectors through the village of Abiquiú and the surrounding Chama River Valley. Complimentary maps are available at all the studios, local businesses and online for download. abiquiustudiotour.org

SEPT. 30

OCT. 8

SEPT. 29

San Geronimo Day 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Join Taos Pueblo for the largest gathering of Indian nations to celebrate the traditional Harvest & Trade day, which shares the splendid food and crafts between tribes from all over New Mexico and North America. Witness the unique ceremonial pole dance, special symbolism for American Indians. No photography and/or filming is allowed. (575) 758-1028, taospueblo.com

SEPT. 30-OCT. 1

31st Annual El Rito Studio Tour 10 a.m.-5 p.m. More than 30 artists open their studios in the small community of El Rito, nestled between Abiquiú and Ojo off U.S. Highway 84. elritostudiotour.org

OCTOBER OCT. 6-8

Oktoberfest in Red River 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Authentic German food and music, arts and crafts exhibitors, microbreweries and wineries, entertaining games and contests, food vendors and family friendly activities. Held in Brandenburg Park. (575) 7542366, redriver.org

OCT. 7-8

34th Annual Taos Wool Festival 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday; 9 a.m.-4

Sabor, A Taste of Taos Noon-4 p.m. Sponsored by the Taos County Chamber of Commerce, Sabor brings the community and visitors together for an event celebrating the flavors from restaurants in Northern New Mexico. Participating vendors prepare and serve small, ready-toeat “Tastes,” which highlights their food craft. Each Taste is purchased by patrons with an event token, purchased at an on-site ticket booth. The annual event also includes music, general seating, prizes and children’s activities. (575) 751-8800, taoschamber.com/ sabor-a-taste-of-taos

OCT. 12-14

18th Taos Storytelling Festival The annual Taos Storytelling Festival will headline Rosemary Wahtola Trommer and Andy Offut Irwin, along with Taos favorite Cisco Guevara and winners of the Friday StorySLAM at the Saturday evening Big Show at Taos Community Auditorium. Friday evening’s Story Slam will be held at Taos Mesa Brewing. Workshops and other gatherings to share stories to be announced. Sponsored by SOMOS. For location and schedule updates, go online to taosstorytellingfestival. com.

OCT. 14

Oktober Fall Harvest Festival

Day-long celebration for fall and honoring First Responders in the local areas. A family tradition through the connection with food, agriculture and the community. Enjoy live music, food, farmers’ market and pumpkins. The festival also includes a Kid-Zone, jump house, climbing wall and a pumpkin patch. Held at Frontier Park in Angel Fire. Sponsored by Angel Fire Rotary Club. president@angelfirerotaryclub.com, angelfirerotaryclub.com

OCT. 27-29

35th Annual Taos Mountain Balloon Rally The Taos sky is filled with 35 brightly colored hot air balloons lifting into the clear, cold dawn of a Taos Mountain sunrise. The rally also features tethered rides for school-age children, mass ascensions a Saturday Balloon Rally Parade and on the final evening, the “Balloomenshine.” The weather permitting event is held at the field on Albright Street. taosballoonrally. com

OCT. 28

Red River Halloween Rail Jam Head to Red River for this annual Rail Jam. Skiers and snowboarders perform tricks on rails, boxes, pipes, towers, wall rides, etc. (575) 7542223, redriverskiarea.com

NOVEMBER NOV. 4-5

Dixon Studio Tour A fall tradition, the Dixon Studio Tour — about 25 miles southwest of Taos — is one of the oldest continuously run studio tours in the state. Wander among the orchards and visit the open studios and local businesses featuring a full spectrum of contemporary and traditional fine art and crafts. dixonarts.org To be included in the 2018 Discover Taos summer visitor guide calendar, please email Special Sections Editor Scott Gerdes at special@taosnews.com.

Experience the lifestyle of the Pueblo people through our permanent exhibit, Nah Poeh Meng, a walk-through exhibit depicting our agriculture, architecture and crafts. IN T’OWA VI SAE’WE: The People’s Pottery, explores our history though pueblo pottery on loan by the National Museum of the American Indian.

LOD G I N G P A R TN E R S : Hilton Buffalo Thunder: 1-800-HILTONS (445-8667) Homewood Suites by Hilton Santa Fe North 1-505-455-9100 Cities of Gold Hotel 1-800-455-3313 Roadrunner RV Park 1-505-455-2626

U PCOM ING EVENTS Saturday, June 17: Poeh Summer Arts Market Thursday, August 17: Opening for Exhibits Residency by Douglas Miles and Tewa Tales of Suspense by Jason Garcia Saturday & Sunday, August 19-20: Poeh Student Booth at SWAIA Santa Fe Indian Market Poeh Cultural Center Gift Shop: Open 7 days a week Mon-Fri: 9am-5pm, Sat: 10am-5pm, Sun: 10am-4pm Student Artist Market at BuffaloThunder: Fri-Sat: 4pm-7pm Farmer’s Market: Go to www.pojoaque.org for seasonal hours.

Several guided tours are available for people of all ages interested in learning about our Pueblo culture. You may book any of these tours by calling 505-455-5041, by booking online at www.poehcenter.org or by emailing us at info@poehcenter.org. Poeh Museum Tour: Takes guests on a journey through Pueblo history with regional cultural orientation and interpretation. Buffalo Thunder Art Tour: At the Buffalo Thunder Resort is a treat for any art enthusiast. View and discuss several pieces by local Native American artists. Bison Tour: is a new offering and takes guest on a hay ride to our bison grazing grounds. Enjoy stories about our lands, and animals.

“Exper ience P uebl o C ult ure” 505.455.5041

POEHCENTER.ORG

78 CITIES OF GOLD, SANTA FE, NM 87506

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Summer/Fall 2017 /// discovertaos.com

Proudly Serving Taos and Northern New Mexico for 40 years

TAOS ’ OLDEST REAL ESTATE COMPANY. When we first started almost all streets in Taos were unpaved, with the exception of the main north-south and east-west highways and the Plaza. There were virtually NO traffic lights. Buying and selling real estate was done with a a one page agreement and we were proud to be one of the first real estate companies to put Taos on the map. Taos has changed a lot since we first began back in 1977, but one thing hasn’t and that’s our commitment to making sure your real estate experience is a pleasant one. Find out why Taos’ oldest real estate company is also Taos’ leader for customer service, quality and selection. with gratitude,

LOTA REALTY, INC. View All Taos MLS Listings at www.cblotataos.com Corner of Paseo del Pueblo Norte & Civic Plaza Drive • 800-829-8673

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Summer/Fall 2017 /// discovertaos.com