DISCOVER
2017 WINTER/SPRING
VISITOR & NEWCOMER GUIDE Angel Fire Red River Sipapu Taos Ski Valley
THE OFFICIAL GUIDE OF THE TAOS COUNTY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND THE TOWN OF TAOS VISITOR CENTER A COMPLIMENTARY PUBLICATION OF THE TAOS NEWS discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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Come Experience Santa Fe’s New Spa Oasis
STAY TWO NIGHTS, GET THE THIRD NIGHT FREE Along with our sister resort Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs, we honor the wisdom of this sacred land and legendary waters. Come rest, relax and rejuvenate at our tranquil oasis. Nestled among 70 acres of breathtaking beauty, you’ll discover cozy accommodations, nourishing cuisine and engaging activities. Book a Two-night Refresh + Recharge package and your third night is FREE!
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20% Off Skier’s Special Bring your lift ticket or season pass from any New Mexico Ski Resort and receive 20% off Springs’ entry or lodging.*
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Visit ojospa.com for lodging and spa specials.
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Valid December 1, 2016 - April 30, 2017, not including Ojo holiday periods. Springs’ entry and lodging discount is valid Monday through Thursday. One discount per lift ticket/pass. Not to be combined with any other offer. Lodging includes Springs’ access. Visit ojospa.com for details. Does not apply to RV or camping. 12 sulfur-free mineral pools. Mud Area open year-round, weather permitting. Private Outdoor Pools. Full-service spa. Enchanting suites & cottages. Restaurant & Wine Bar. Yoga, hiking & mountain biking trails. Less than an hour North of Santa Fe.
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Just Great Stuff www.letherwerks.com 124 Bent Street B & C
Taos
575 758 2778
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Deliciously Taos
serving lunch 11am - 3pm | serving dinner 5pm - 9pm | closed tuesdays sunday brunch 9am - 2:30pm | tapas and happy hour daily from 3pm - 6pm for booking information: giorgio@oldmartinashall.com or call 575.758.3003 575.758.3003 | oldmartinashall.com | 4140 Hwy 68, across from San Francisco de Asis Church | Ranchos de Taos discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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WINTER/SPRING 2017
CONTENTS
158
FEATURES 32
HISTORY OF THE MOUNTAIN Replicating the European ski experience By Andy Dennison
36
UPHILL ON THE DOWNHILL
Blake Hotel at Taos Ski Valley is shining start to resort’s revitalization By Scott Gerdes
74
UTTERLY UNPRETENTIOUS
As TSV undergoes a monumental makeover, Jean Mayer and the St. Bernard are keeping it real By J.R. Logan
139
“REALLY GIVE IT A SOUL”
46
Jim Long, new El Monte Sagrado owner, talks about this Taos treasure
RICHARD ARCHULETA
154
SMITTY CLARK
CHANGES ARE A-HAPPENIN’
Upgrades at Taos Ski Valley By Andy Dennison
156
TAOS SKI VALLEY HAS A NEW CEO
“I see great potential for Taos”
TAOS TIDBITS 44
TRIPLE PLAY Three free things to do in Taos
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DO ASK, DO TELL
The most-asked questions about Taos
72
FUN FACTS
106
HOMEGROWN BUSINESSES 026
FACES OF TAOS
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Taos Pueblo War Chief
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Taos Ski Valley “Ambassador”
104
JAMIE LEESON Taos Cow owner and bartender
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ED SANDOVAL Painter and sculptor
176
HANNAH WESTLY Barista
WHERE TO STAY 64
TAOS LODGING
From sublime to simple
78
EXPERIENCING TAOS AS HOME AirBnB comes to Northern New Mexico By Mel A. James
EAT, DRINK, BE MERRY
EXTRAS
FOR THE LOVE OF CHOCOLATE
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Taos just got even sweeter thanks to Chokolá Bean to Bar By Teresa Dovalpage
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FONDUE NIGHT AT THE BAVARIAN LODGE Heirloom fondue recipes served up in a splendid setting By M. Elwell Romancito
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SENSORY PARADISE
30th Annual Taos Winter Wine Festival By M. Elwell Romancito
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GET YOUR GRUB ON AT TAOS SKI VALLEY
Where to nosh up the mountain
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SCORE!
Try these local favorite sports spots to catch the big game By Arcenio J. Trujillo
30
FROM THE EDITOR MUSEUM LIST
Wonders never cease
130
DEFROST YOUR BONES
Ojo Caliente “Ski and Soak Special”
By Yvonne Pesquera
138
TAKING THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED Some tips for safe winter driving
142
BREATH EASY
Be aware of altitude sickness
AREA MAPS 38
GETTING HERE
Driving directions, airport, rental car and shuttle information
136
POINTS OF INTEREST A downtown walking tour and the Enchanted Circle
Continues on 28
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WINTER/SPRING 2017
CONTENTS
112
STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS DISCOVER TAOS
WINTER VISITOR GUIDE TAOS NEWS STAFF
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Robin Martin, owner Chris Baker, publisher Damon Scott, editor Chris Wood, advertising manager Scott Gerdes, special sections editor Michelle M. Gutierrez, lead editorial designer Karin Eberhardt, production manager Katharine Egli, staff photographer Cody Hooks, reporter J.R. Logan, reporter John Miller, reporter Arcenio J. Trujillo, sports editor Beth Dobos, digital content manager
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Continues from 26
RECREATION
CALENDARS
“SNOWSPORTS WEEK”
TAOS IS AGLOW
40
Skiing is a dance and the mountain always leads By Yvonne Pesquera
56
Holiday events
186
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
SKIJORING IN RED RIVER
What’s happening around the Enchanted Circle
By Mel A. James
ENCHANTED CIRCLE
Speed skating meets the Wild West
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ICE FISHING
For the harder breed of angler
114
SHAKING OFF THE RUST Easing back into Alpine skiing By Cindy Brown
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BIG OL’ TEXAS WEEKEND Annual thank-you party keeps kickin’ up its heels By Scott Gerdes
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THE COMMUNITIES
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Arroyo Seco, Angel Fire, Questa, Red River, Eagle Nest, Sipapu, Taos Pueblo
The adventure of snowshoeing
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WALKING ON ICE CRYSTALS By Cindy Brown
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SNOWMOBILE TOURS A different scenic adventure
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GLIDING THROUGH WINTER You, cross-country skis and nature By Cindy Brown
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ANOTHER GEM ON THE MOUNTAIN
New chairlift unveiled at Red River Ski & Summer Area By Yvonne Pesquera
Cindy Brown Andy Dennison Teresa Dovalpage Mel A. James Yvonne Pesquera M. Elwell Romancito
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT John Miller
COVER PHOTOGRAPH: Jakob Helbig
Connect with us! discovertaos.com
“Food and service was the best ever!” – Kurt W., trip Advisor
123 BENT STREET • 575 758 1009 discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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PROTECT HOMEOWNERS YOUR TRUST STATE HOME FARM.
Discover why 15 million
their homes to
LIKE A GOOD NEIGHBOR, STATE FARM IS THERE.® Providing Insurance and Financial Services
State Farm Fire and Casualty Company, State Farm General Insurance Company - Bloomington, IL State Farm Florida Insurance Company - Winter Haven, FL • State Farm Lloyds - Dallas, TX P048119 12/04
030
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WINTER/SPRING 2017
Wanda Quintana, Agent 211 Kit Carson Road Taos, NM 87571 Bus: 575-737-LIFE wanda.quintana.jxfp@statefarm.com
Courtesy Taos Ski Valley
FROM THE EDITOR
AND DISCOVER WHY SO MANY NEW MEXICANS TRUST THEIR HOMES TO WANDA LUCERO
WINTER IN TAOS
Many beautifully scribed words have been crafted to describe winter in Taos — a season where everything remains a potent energy, even the sun. But maybe Taos legend Mabel Dodge Luhan wrote it best: “I found out that the sunshine in New Mexico could do almost anything with one: make one well if one felt ill, or change a dark mood and lighten it. It entered into one’s deepest places and melted the thick, slow densities. It made one feel good. That is, alive.” Bond that sentiment with the rush of downhill skiing atop world-class slopes, a mind-clearing snowshoe hike, an abundance of eye-opening art, cuisine to die for, a vibrant music scene, charm-filled Northern New Mexico towns with no shortage of events and nonintrusive locals, and you’ve got a true winter wonderland. The winter blues don’t infiltrate Taos’ vibe. And let’s not forget the magic. The Sangre de Cristo Mountains that hug Taos and the adjacent Moreno Valley add to the area’s mystique, especially in winter. Taos Mountain is the most sacred and identifiable peak in Taos with its straightforward tree line giving way and exposing its barren pinnacle. It stands in a steadfast calm behind Taos Pueblo and can be seen from everywhere in town. Many say all life comes from it and many also say it decides whether to accept you or not. Whatever Taos Mountain decides, its majestic, unchanged beauty and peace draws many a seeker and adventurer. But no matter how you were called to Taos this winter, the mountain embraces all who visit. All it asks in return is that you respond in kind. — Scott Gerdes, special sections editor
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TAOS SKI VALLEY ■ HISTORY
HISTORY H OF THE MOUNTAIN REPLICATING THE EUROPEAN SKI EXPERIENCE BY ANDY DENNISON
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istory attaches to place. And nowhere is this truer than at Taos Ski Valley (TSV). The reminders of its past are constant, and each is linked to a spot in and around this mountain that so many love to return to each winter. So, as you glide around Taos Ski Valley, know that you are joining in a long parade of people whose love of the area runs as deep as the powder stashes in the cirques of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.
THE MINE SLIDE
Before you even get out of the car, a wide-open slag slash up the valley comes into view. It’s a reminder of days gone
by when this valley was first settled in the 1800s around the Twining gold and copper deposits. Envision miners’ tents, cabins and even a grocery store. Copper eventually dominated, and New Jersey banker Albert Twining financed a smelting mill. The copper lode petered out in the early 1900s. Fortuneseekers moved on.
with glades of trees. The Poma also gave skiers access to newly cut Porcupine and Longhorn. Four years later, crews used the Poma to haul concrete to pour tower foundations for the mountain’s first chair. Today’s Lift No. 1 gives skiers and boarders a close look at the early days of skiing at Taos Ski Valley.
LIFT NO. 1
Frenchman Jean Mayer came at Blake’s invitation to start the TSV Ski School and ended up building the first real hotel in the valley (supplanting Hondo
Taos Ski Valley began right here. Ernie and Rhoda Blake founded the resort in 1955. The original lift line on the hill, a J-bar and then a Poma lift, carried skiers up to what is now the Snakedance run. In 1957, a Poma went all the way to the top, and Al’s Run officially opened — tighter than today
HOTEL ST. BERNARD
Continues on 34 Courtesy Adriana Blake Taos Ski Valley co-founder Ernie Blake walks along “The Ridge” in this undated photo.
It all happens under our roof
575.758.2233 | ď?´aosď?Šnn.com
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TAOS SKI VALLEY ■ HISTORY Connect with us! discovertaos.com
01
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02
Continues from 32
Lodge where wealthy Texans brought their concubines and drank their whiskey). Named after the patron saint of skiing, the hotel began as a restaurant and bar in 1958. Quite rapidly, a second floor with eight rooms went up, then the Aframes and the Alpenhof — all completed by 1962. The view of Al’s and Sundance from the sundeck is the same as it was then. Order the cheese fondue downstairs and embrace the French haute-cuisine that has been a key part of “Saint B’s” appeal for nearly six decades.
ERNIE BLAKE SKI SCHOOL
“The best instructor at Taos was the mountain itself.” This quote confirms Blake’s belief that a top ski school was essential to help people enjoy the steep, challenging terrain at TSV. The ski school at Taos Ski Valley has always bragged that they can get you on the main mountain quicker than any. Jean and his brother, Dadou Mayer, started it. They advocated a composite skiing style of both the controversial parallel “Austrian” technique and the snowplow-and-stem turn Alberg teaching style. Learn-to-Ski Weeks started right from the start, provid034
ing the very same intensive, get-you-on-the-hill instruction that can be had today.
LONGHORN
With Al’s Run and Sundance, Longhorn is among the iconic trails off the front side of TSV. Reached either by a short hike from the top of Lift No. 1 or through a gate at the top of Zagava, Longhorn rivals Al’s for a thigh-burning vertical and closely resembles a New England trail with its heavy forests, winding route and periodic steep pitches. Mother Nature took care of clearing the trail as Longhorn sits on an avalanche slide area. Crews mostly had to clear avalanche debris to get it open before 1960.
‘ROUND THE WORLD
Once lifts ran to the top of the front side in the mid1960s, a whole new world opened up. Wheeler Peak Ridge, Kachina Peak and the upper La Cal Basin spread out to the south and east. What Ernie Blake saw was a chance to replicate the European skiing experience right here in New Mexico. When you stop at the Phoenix Restaurant or The Bavarian Lodge and Restaurant, imagine a full mountain village. That’s what
Winter/Spring 2017 /// discovertaos.com
Blake saw and named it Taos Meadows (later changed to Kachina Village) — complete with 300 beds, restaurants and bars, and a new chairlift up to the base of Kachina Bowl. Moreover, Blake envisioned that skiers could swoosh from one village to the next like in the Alps. Alas, the Forest Service nixed the idea, but Lift No. 4 went up anyway in 1971.
HIGHLINE RIDGE/ KACHINA PEAK
Early photos of Blake often show him with skis resting on his shoulder on “The Ridge.” Many see the 4,000-foot hike from the top of Chair No. 2 to the 12,481-foot summit of Kachina Peak as the reason why Taos Ski Valley is different. From Juarez Bowl to Trescow and Twin Trees, then on up above the treeline to the K Chutes and on to the top, the vastness of Alpine terrain is impressive. In the 1960s, there’s evidence that Blake was talking about putting a lift up to Kachina — not only for the skiing but, equally as important, to give his guests a scenic eyeful of the mountain he so loved. In 2014, some 25 years after his death, the bull-wheel began turning for a chairlift up the face of Kachina Bowl.
“THE BEST INSTRUCTOR AT TAOS WAS THE MOUNTAIN ITSELF.” —ERNIE BLAKE 01: Published on Nov. 27, 1991. The caption reads: “It took helicopters to install it and men working overtime in sub-freezing temperatures to get it on line, but Taos Ski Valley boasts a new quad lift for 1991-92 in Kachina Bowl that makes the ride to the top darn near a social gathering,” Taos News archives 02: This undated photo was taken by the late Ernie Blake, co-founder of Taos Ski Valley. The caption reads: “When you drive into the parking lot of Taos Ski Valley, all you see from there is a near vertical face of the lower half of Al’s Run — a sight apt to make even the hardiest skier tremble. What you do not realize is that you only see 1/30th of the slopes and bowls of Taos Ski Valley — many of which are wide open and easy to ski and spectacularly beautiful,” Taos News archives 03: The original Chair No. 4, unknown date. Courtesy Taos Ski Valley Archives
TIMELINE: LIFTS AT TAOS SKI VALLEY
Over the past 60 years, more than a dozen lifts have gone in at Taos Ski Valley, each providing easier access to the mountain’s terrain. Some have since been replaced with more modern versions. Here’s a look at what went in and when: 1955-56: A J-bar surface like, called a Ski-Kuli, services 300 vertical feet up Al’s Run to serve Snakedance run. 1956: T-bar replaces J-bar and extends to a 1,000 vertical. 1957: Poma goes to top of Al’s Run — reportedly steepest Poma lift in the world. Second Poma installed on beginner’s hill. 1961: First chairlift replaces main Poma 1965: Chair 5 goes in on lower front side. 1970: Chair 3 starts up on Strawberry Hill beginner slope. 1971: What is now Chair 4 is installed on back side. 1976: Chair 6 goes in to the top. 1984: Chair 7 adds liftaccess terrain on back side. 1989: First chair gets upgrade with current Lift No. 1. 1990: Chair 7A transports skiers from back to front. 1991: Rueggli beginner lift installed. 1995: Chair 2 goes in alongside Chair 5. 2014: Kachina Lift rises up Kachina Bowl.
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TAOS SKI VALLEY â– BLAKE HOTEL
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UPHILL ON THE DOWNHILL BLAKE HOTEL AT TAOS SKI VALLEY IS SHINING START TO RESORT’S REVITALIZATION BY SCOTT GERDES
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rnie Blake, the late co-founder of Taos Ski Valley, will not witness the rising of his namesake hotel, but there is no doubt he would be impressed. The Blake at Taos Ski Valley rises six levels and covers 145,000 square feet. It houses 65 guest rooms and 15 suites. It is a $60 million start of a revitalization effort at the village. The hospitality gem, that on the outside reflects Blake’s — a German immigrant — European ski resort vision, stands on the site that previously housed the ski school and equipment rental, ticket office, plus two upper floor apartments, drop-off area and tunnel, post office, lost and found and locker rooms. Construction began with the demolition of that structure on April 13, 2015. As of September 2016, the hotel was more than just a shell. Beginning at the “Spa Level,” which rests on a stone foundation, are a heated outdoor pool (with bar service and heat lamps placed throughout in the winter) and two hot tubs with access to a river walk below. Inside features include a spa and wellness center with workout equipment and a separate room for yoga and Pilates. And if calming your muscles is calling to you more than exercising them, across the way is the multiroom massage area — including couples’ relaxation and massage rooms — with steam rooms and changing facilities. Below the Spa Level is a valet garage with space for about 80 vehicles. No need to lug ski equipment and bags up stairs any longer. Valets will take your skis, boots and poles and secure them in a special area for safe keeping. They can be retrieved any time during the day and put away again after a day on the slopes. Continues on 42 Photo by Katharine Egli The Blake Hotel is the $60 million, 145,000-squarefoot, six-level centerpiece hotel at the core of the resort’s revitilazation. discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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GETTING HERE
Red River
Questa Tres Piedras
Arroyo Hondo
TAOS
DRIVING DIRECTIONS
Taos Ski Valley
Eagle Nest
Arroyo Seco Taos Pueblo Angel Fire
Ranchos de Taos
◗ FROM ALBUQUERQUE: I-25 north to Santa Fe; exit on N.M. 599 North to bypass Santa Fe; U.S. 285 to N.M. 68 to Taos.
Ojo Caliente
◗ FROM ARIZONA: I-40 to Albuquerque, I-25 to Santa Fe; U.S. 285
to N.M. 68 to Taos.
Pilar Main Route to Taos
Picuris Pueblo Peñasco
Velarde
◗ FROM DENVER: I-25 south to Walsenburg; U.S. 160 to Fort
Garland; Colo. 159 and N.M. 522 to Taos.
◗ FROM VAIL: I-70 to Copper Mountain; Colo. 91 to Leadville; U.S.
Chimayó
High Road to Taos Mora
Española
24 to Johnson Village; U.S. 285 to Tres Piedras; U.S. 64 to Taos.
Los Alamos
◗ FROM PURGATORY AND DURANGO: U.S. 160 to Alamosa; U.S. 285 to Tres Piedras; U.S. 64 to Taos.
Pojoaque
◗ FROM WEST TEXAS: I-40 to Clines Corner; U.S. 285 to Interstate 25 to Santa Fe; U.S. 285 to N.M. 68 to Taos.
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M I L E S
SANTA FE Las Vegas Cheyenne
Salt Lake City Denver
Vail Breckenridge
Copper Mountain Leadville
Scipio Salina
Crested Butte
Grand Junction
Johnson Village Maysville
Gunnison
Montrose
AIRPORT SHUTTLES (TO ALBUQUERQUE) ◗ TWIN HEARTS EXPRESS AND SHUTTLE CO.: 575-751-1201 or 800-654-9456
Colorado Springs
CAR RENTAL COMPANIES ◗ AVIS RENT-A-CAR: Albuquerque Airport, 505842-4080 or 800-331-1212; avis.com ◗ ENTERPRISE: 1350 Paseo del
Pueblo
Telluride Purgatory Cortez
Durango
Monte Vista Alamosa
Walsenburg Fort Garland
Chama
Raton
Tres Piedras
Farmington
Pueblo Sur, 575-758-5553; enterprise.com ◗ HERTZ: Taos Muncipal Airport, 575-751-3119; hertz.com
TAOS Española
Santa Fe Flagstaff
Las Vegas Clines Corner
Albuquerque
Amarillo
Santa Rosa
(TO OKLAHOMA CITY)
DRIVING DISTANCES/ APPROXIMATE TIMES TO TAOS
Clovis
Lubbock Phoenix
Roswell
Tucson
Las Cruces
El Paso (TO AUSTIN & DALLAS) MEXICO
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LOCAL TRANSPORTATION ◗ TAOS EXPRESS: Shuttle to Santa Fe, 575-751-4459 ◗ CHILE LINE: Town public transportation, 575-751-4459; taosgov.com ◗ FAUST CHARTER AND LIMO SERVICE: 575-758-3410 ◗ NORTH CENTRAL REGIONAL TRANSIT DISTRICT: Northern New Mexico public transportation, 1-866-206-0754 or www.ncrtd.org
ALBUQUERQUE AMARILLO AUSTIN BRECKENRIDGE COLORADO SPRINGS CRESTED BUTTE DALLAS DENVER DURANGO
Miles Hours
135 302 764 263 230 271 682 300 208
21⁄2 41⁄2 12 4 33⁄4 41⁄4 101⁄2 41⁄2 31⁄4
EL PASO OKLAHOMA CITY PHOENIX PURGATORY SANTA FE TELLURIDE TUCSON VAIL
Miles Hours
400 558 568 233 72 324 569 276
6 81⁄4 81⁄2 33⁄4 11⁄4 5 81⁄2 41⁄2
HumANS wERE NEvER mEANT TO HIBERNATE
ALL SEASONS SPORTS Serving since 1970
Spyder Obermeyer Columbia Dare 2B Solomon Gloves • Hats • Shoes
SKI-BOARD RENTALS AND SALES K-2 ∙ Rossignol ∙ Atomic
600 W Main St • Red River allseasonsrrnm.com • 575-754-2308 • 1-800-686-3485 discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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‘SNOW- T SPORTS WEEK’
aos Ski Valley welcomes the rookie and veteran skiers to another season. We asked Chris Stagg, son-in-law of Ernie Blake (co-founder of Taos Ski Valley), to reflect on the success of their long-running “Snowsports Week.” Though it is often referred to by its previous name “Ski Week” –– Snowsports Week is an excellent option for both skiers and snowboarders.
THE PERFECT LESSON
BY YVONNE PESQUERA
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“For such an individual sport, skiing is such a social sport. Ernie Blake said that if you go to ski school, you go home saying ‘that was one of the best ski trips I ever had.’ If you don’t go to ski school, you go home saying ‘the terrain was hard, I couldn’t find the good stuff, and I didn’t meet any new friends,’” Stagg says. Snowsports Week is an all-inclusive package in which
SKIING IS A DANCE AND THE MOUNTAIN ALWAYS LEADS you not only learn how to ski better, but you get to enjoy the mountain so much more. Call the resort for exact details, but here’s an overview of how it works: Snowsports Week begins on a Sunday morning and runs through Friday for six days of instruction. You learn tips and techniques, turns and stops, and how to carve and hold tighter lines. Best of all, you get guided around the mountain by the people who know it best. There is no better way to feel the
wind in your face under New Mexico’s incomparable blue sky. If you’re a beginner, you meet your group and instructor at the Pioneer lift (the beginner “green” runs). All other skiers meet at Lift 5 for an assessment. During this time, the instructor learns of your goals and your motivation. For some it’s “steep and deep” or “cruise and enjoy the sunshine.” For others it is simply “hit the bumps.” So the instructors not only assess your ski level, but understand your motivation level as well. This assessment and level of instruction is a bonus for any advanced snow enthusiast looking to hike the ridge and access expert terrain. After the first day, the instructors ask if you are happy. “We have an obligation to find the group that is right for you. But after Monday, we try to keep the group together so that you
get to know other family and friends people and the for lunch and TAOS SKI VALLEY SNOWSPORTS WEEK instructor,” more skiing, is for skiers and boarders of says Burt as well all abilities. After six days of Skall, as take lessons with top instructors and practicing new moves on varied director advanterrain, you’ll head home a tage of of Snowmuch better skier or rider. sports at numerTaos Ski Valley Ski Week (runs ous Taos Taos Ski Dec. 11, 2016 to April 2, 2017). Valley. Ski Valley For more information, call amenities. Skall ex1-800-776-1111 or visit skitaos.com. plains, “What This includes I love is having shopping and the opportunity to get services, as well as the the techniques ingrained, to brand-new spa treatments at make it a part of you. You the new hotel, The Blake at start learning on easier terTaos Ski Valley. rain and then you take that Stagg looks back at his into more advanced steeper arrival in Taos Ski Valley in terrain. It becomes a part of 1973. Over the years, Skall who you are.” has worked as a ski instructor It’s important to note that supervisor, in the marketing a Taos Ski Valley Snowsports department and as ski school Week does not lock up your manager before he recently whole vacation. Skiers and took the helm. Stagg explains riders take lessons for about the history of Snowsports two hours every morning of Week. the week (approximately 10 “In the early days of Taos a.m. to noon). Afterward, Ski Valley, things were different then. Our first season you can meet up with your
was 1955-1956. The gross revenue of the company in that first year was $1,600. Things were very primitive. The road between Arroyo Seco and Taos Ski Valley was unpaved, it was gravel. So we didn’t have skiers who stayed in town. Basically you stayed here in the lodges or the condos. A busy day back then was 400-500 skiers. Everyone was staying here. So we would have these weeklong stays where everything would be included: meals, lodging, lift tickets and ski school. Everyone was on that program.” He further explains, “A lot of time you go to a ski resort and you stay with your group. Now you can meet others and all meals are eaten family style.” Skall says, “It’s the best way to learn to ski better. I’m obligated as an instructor to tell you everything I know in a one-day lesson that’s only 2-3 hours. But with Ski
Week, we are spreading that information out over the course of several days, which is a much better way to learn lessons.” Taos Ski Valley guests have their choice of lodging among Snakedance, St. Bernard, Edelweiss, and the newly built The Blake. The level of repeat guests to Snowsports Week is so high, Taos Ski Valley has literally registered individuals who took their first Ski Week decades ago –– and return every year, even now with their grandchildren. “A lot of time, people think ‘I don’t need a lesson. I’m a good skier.’ But even the most seasoned athlete has a coach. I have been teaching since 1977 and have worked at other resorts. The staff we have here is one of the most professional and experienced group of instructors I’ve ever seen. I’m an examiner. I know that the culture and the staff here are the best,” says Skall.
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Experience Winter in New Mexico
El Monte Sagrado
Palacio de Marquesa
Eldorado Hotel & Spa Santa Fe
Hotel Chimayo de Santa Fe
Hotel St. Francis
1-855-846-8627 ElMonteSagrado.com
1-855-846-8627 MarquesaTaos.com
1-800-955-4455 EldoradoHotel.com
1-855-752-9273 HotelChimayo.com
1-800-529-5700 HotelStFrancis.com
Taos
Taos
Santa Fe
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triple play* three free things to do in taos Río Grande Gorge Bridge
The second highest bridge on the U.S. highway system is a steel-deck arch expanse completed in 1965. It spans one of New Mexico’s most scenic vistas. About 10 miles northwest of Taos on U.S. 64, the famous bridge crosses hundreds of feet above the Río Grande. Exactly how high, however, varies depending on who you ask or what web site you click. The New Mexico Department of Transportation lists it at 600 feet above America’s fourth longest river (1,896 miles). Other numbers range up to 650 feet — but, really, what’s the difference when you’re talking about that kind of elevation? The adjacent park offers plenty of parking for those who want to walk across the bridge, visit vendors or walk trails that offer stunning views of the gorge, the river below and the expansive mesa. The bridge also features several platforms that jut out from the walkway, allowing pedestrians to stand several feet out into space.
From left: Río Grande Gorge Bridge; The statue of Saint Francis is adorned with a flowering branch in front of St. Francis de Asis church, photo by Megan Bowers Avina; Dovecotes at Mabel Dodge Luhan House, photo by Scott Gerdes.
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In 1997, the bridge was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Hollywood has taken notice of it, too. The bridge has made cameo appearances in a number of films including, “Terminator Salvation,” “Twins,” “Wild Hogs” and “Natural Born Killers.” For more information, taos.org.
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San Francisco de Asís mission Church
Four miles south of Taos on State Road 68 in the village of Ranchos de Taos, sits one of the most painted and photographed churches in the world. Coming into town from Santa Fe, it is the first landmark you’ll come across. Built between 1772 and 1816, this traditional adobe, mud and straw Spanish mission structure is synonymous with New Mexico, made famous by painter Georgia O’Keeffe and photographers Ansel Adams and Paul Strand. O’Keeffe described it as “one of the most beautiful buildings left in the United States by the early Spaniards.” Spanish colonists began to settle permanently in the village of Ranchos de Taos in the mid-18th century. They moved from the larger Spanish and Pueblo community at Taos Pueblo to farm the fertile land, where they grew wheat and corn. To defend themselves against Comanche raiders, who were attracted to the rich Taos Valley, the settlers built their adobe homes and other buildings close together around a common plaza. The church sits on this plaza. The church is a National Historic Landmark and a World Heritage church. It is open Mon.-Sat, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. For more information, (575) 751-0518, taos.org, nps.gov.
Mabel Dodge Luhan House
Just a five block walk from Historic Taos Plaza and you’re at the home of the unofficial founder of Taos’ artistic and intellectual community. A salon hostess, writer and art patroness married to a Taos Pueblo Indian, Mabel Gansen Evans Dodge Sterne Luhan moved to Taos in 1919. The domineering and endearing self-appointed savior of humanity is credited with luring writers, artists and some of the most influential minds of the 20th century to the Land of Enchantment by sending invitations to people she barely knew. O’Keeffe and Adams were among those who accepted and came to hang out at the now historic inn, along with novelist Willa Cather, painter John Marin, dancer/ choreographer Martha Graham and writer D.H. Lawrence. The adobe home is warm, charming, early century elegance that wreaks of historic relevance. From the outside, look up at the bathroom windows, colorfully painted over by Lawrence. He also took a brush and paint to one of the home’s bathrooms. This piece of history in the heart of town was once owned by actor Dennis Hopper. It is now a B&B and conference center. Complimentary coffee, tea and cookies await every visitor. Guided tours are available. For more information, (575) 751-9686, mabeldodgeluhan.com.
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Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina
FACES OF TAOS NAME Richard Archuleta
VOCATION Taos Pueblo War Chief LOCATION Taos Pueblo AGE 60
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ROOTS Being born and raised in Taos Pueblo, as a child Richard knew nothing about the outside world. The family raised their own food, whether it was planting grains, raising chickens or hunting. The 7:30 a.m. bell ringing from a tower told him he had a half an hour to get to school. He distinctly remembers the sound to this day. In the past, Richard served as the Bison Project Manager for about 10 years, overseeing the Pueblo’s
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herd of “big, wooly critters.” The preserved, proud culture of the Red Willow people stands tall amid the large timbers and adobe bricks that make up the more than 1,000-year-old multistory dwelling. Taos Pueblo culture inhales and exhales the warm smell of cedar wood and bread baking in hornos (outdoor adobe ovens). Its heart beats faster during the traditional dances and feast days … in the drum beats, ancient songs and handcrafted art. It lives in
the faces of the more than 1,900 Pueblo members, including its elected War Chief for 2016 with the beautiful singing voice and passionate heart, Richard Archuleta. • The War Chief cares for the entire tribal land base (about 115,000 total acres). I oversee hunts and oversee wildlife all the way up into the mountains. In the high country there are elk, mule deer, turkeys, big horn sheep, bears, grouse and mountain lions. The War Chief also protects the land
from trespassers. And he informs his community of Pueblorelated news, often on Sundays after Mass at San Geronimo Church. • Taos Pueblo chooses to allow outsiders inside — they don’t have to. Where visitors can go within the Pueblo are clearly marked. returned tribal land. Please be respectful of that. • The bison herd of about 140 holds great meaning to Richard: I suspect Taos is the last tribe to have a herd.
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Big Ol ’ exas Weekend
ANNUAL THANK-YOU PARTY KEEPS KICKIN’ UP ITS HEELS BY SCOTT GERDES
Courtesy Angel Fire Resort Dancing and music aplenty during the Big Ol’ Texas Weekend.
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ome say to be a true Texan you must have a spirit of independence, “y’all” will just come out naturally and beans, steak and cornbread are your diet staples. And being that true Texans like their mountains and celebrations big, traveling to Angel Fire for a “thank-you” party is a no-brainer. With Lone Star visitors accounting for more than 50 percent of the resort’s faithful, their loyalty is celebrated every year. That’s not to say, however, that the party just attracts our neighbors to the east. Good music, food, drink, day and night skiing, and snowboarding call to all winter enthusiasts. The 13th annual Big Ol’ Texas weekend promotes and celebrates the Texas way and the unique roots that are shared with New Mexicans. Nestled in the beautiful Northern New Mexico mountains of Angel Fire, a fun-filled weekend (Jan. 27-29) of activities includes themed headline
concerts, Texas Hold’em, food and whiskey samplings and the world famous Big Texan Steak Challenge. In conjunction with the hoopin’ and hollerin’ of the Big Ol’ Texas Weekend is the inaugural year of the Whisky & Powder event — a music festival featuring up-and-coming Country/ RedDirt/Americana artists. Live music from today’s and tomorrow’s stars will be playing at various locations within the Village of Angel Fire and at the Angel Fire Resort. A sampling of entertainers includes Jody Booth, Aubrey Lynn England, Jason Allen, Phillip Griffin, Laci Booth and David Grace. The Whiskey and Powder is in close proximity to a wide range of restaurants, drinks and mountain activities for the country music fan and is certainly destined to become one of the top country music events in the U.S.
EVENT HIGHLIGHTS FRIDAY (JAN. 27)
• Denim & Diamonds Dinner: Elements at the Country Club The evening includes a three-course prime rib dinner, a Jim Beam Whiskey tasting and live music. Reservations recommended. Call (575) 377-3055
SATURDAY (JAN. 28):
• Texas Tailgate: 11:30 a.m.3:30 p.m. on the deck at the base of the mountain. •T exas Barbecue & Beer Tasting, sponsored by Premier Distributing Company. •S eventy-two ounce Steak Eating Challenge, sponsored by the Big Texan at 1:30 p.m. •T exas Hold-em Tournament, sponsored by the Big Texan and Jim Beam (must be 21 or over). Tournament doors open at 5:40 p.m. No cost to enter. •B acon Buffet Dinner at Legends Restaurant. •S aturday Night Neon Rail Jam, sponsored by K2. Register from 4-5 p.m. at the event, starts at 5:30 p.m. •S aturday Night Concert at the Village Haus, 7-10 p.m.
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WONDERS NEVER CEASE
THE MUSEUMS OF TAOS THE E.L. BLUMENSCHEIN HOME AND MUSEUM 222 Ledoux St. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Sun., noon-4 p.m. $8 for adults; $4 per child (5-15), free admission for children under 5; free admission for Taos County residents on Sundays; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available. (575) 758-0505, taoshistoricmuseums.org
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The museum will close a day or two every week from January through mid-March. Please call before visiting during that time. Maintained as when artist Ernest L. Blumenschein — an original member of the Taos Society of Artists — and his family lived there. The home is filled with a superb collection of the
Blumenschein family’s art, a representative sampling of works by other famous Taos artists, fine European and Spanish Colonial style antiques, and the family’s lifetime of personal possessions. The home beautifully illustrates the lifestyle of Taos artists in the first half of the 20th century. Continues on 52
Courtesy Millicent Rogers Museum “Crossing Paths,” beadwork, Millicent Rogers Museum and E. Irving Couse collections
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of the Southwest, including jewelry, paintings and pottery — such as the family collection of Maria Martinez.
Continues from 144 THE COUSE HOUSE 146 Kit Carson Road Call (575) 751-0369 Monday through Friday, 8:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. to arrange a visit, cousesharp.org The home of 20th century artist Eanger Irving Couse and his family and studios of Couse and J.H. Sharp — founding members of the Taos Society of Artists. Wander through the Couse home and see how these pioneer painters lived. Stand at Couse’s easel, see the model’s stage and props. Nothing is under glass. All remains as it was 100 years ago. Appointments may be made for tours of the house. GOVERNOR BENT HOUSE AND MUSEUM 117 Bent Street Open daily 10 a.m.-4 p.m. $1 for adults, $.50 children. (575) 758-2376, laplaza.org The home of the state’s first American governor — a highly respected trapper, trader and mountain man. Charles Bent was appointed governor of New Mexico in 1834 when it became American territory during the Mexican War. In January of 1847, he was killed by an angry mob protesting the American rule. The Governor Bent House is the scene of his death. The museum also features 19th century artifacts of the area and works by Taos artists. HACIENDA DE LOS MARTINEZ 708 Hacienda Way Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Sun., noon-4 p.m. $8 for adults; $4 per child (515), free admission for children under 5; free admission for Taos County residents on Sundays; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available. (575) 758-1000, taoshistoricmuseums.org The museum will close a day or two every week from January through mid-March. Please call before visiting during that time. This thick-walled adobe fortress-like trading post is on the National Register of Historic Places and gives a glimpse of rugged frontier life. It was constructed in 1804 by Severino Martinez. Severino and his wife, Maria del Carmel Santistevan Martinez, raised six children in the Hacienda. Their eldest son was the famous Padre Antonio Martinez who battled the French Bishop Lamy to preserve the Hispanic character of the Catholic Church in the territory. The Hacienda is one of the few Northern New Mexico style, late Spanish Colonial period “Great Houses” remaining
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Tina Larkin An example of one of many exhibits you are likely to find at The Harwood Museum of Art. in the American Southwest. Serving as an important trade center and gathering place, the Hacienda was the final terminus for the Camino Real, which connected Northern New Mexico to Mexico City. It was also the headquarters for an extensive ranching and farming operation. THE HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART 238 Ledoux Street Open Wed.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sun., noon-5 p.m. $10 per adult; $8 for seniors; $8 per student; free admission to youth (18 and under), free admission to UNM students and faculty; free admission to members of the Harwood Museum of Art Alliance; free admission to Taos County residents on Sundays. Please note the following holiday hours and closures: The museum is closed: Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day Other Holiday Hours: Closed at 3 p.m. on the day before Thanksgiving Closed at 3 p.m. on Dec. 24 Closed at 3 p.m. on Dec. 31 (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum.org The Harwood Museum of Art showcases a permanent collection of more than 4,700 works and an archive of 17,000 photographs from the 19th century onward. In the early part of the 20th century, many artists were drawn to the Taos area to pursue a new, truly American art devoid of industrial influence, inspired instead by New Mexico’s landscape and light and the traditional Native American and Hispanic cultures of the region. The Harwood Museum collection brings to the public a unique record of this artistic convergence from its beginnings to the present day. The embracing spirit of the Harwood was established by artists Burt and Elizabeth Harwood. Special winter events: Art
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exhibit through Dec. 31, “Mabel Dodge Luhan and Company: American Moderns and the West”; Taos Chamber Music Group’s (TCMG) “Schubert for the Season” (Dec. 17-18); TCMG presents “Reflections” a celebration of Philip Glass (Feb. 3-4) and “Middle Ground” (March 4-5); TCMG presents “Plat It Forward” featuring young composers and musicians (April 15-16); and “Transcending Time,” a multimedia collaboration with optics artist Ethan Jackson (May 13-14). KIT CARSON HOME AND MUSEUM 113 Kit Carson Road Open daily November through February 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Open daily March through October 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Please note the following holiday closures: Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, New Year’s Day $7 per adult; $6 for seniors; $5 for teens and students; free to children under 12; $5 tour groups of 10 or more; free to Kit Carson Home and Museum members; free to Taos County residents every Sunday; free to active military personnel and free to Masonic members (575) 758-4945, kitcarsonmuseum.org Taos’ oldest museum is the home of Christopher “Kit” Carson, frontiersman, trapper, soldier and scout. The Kit Carson Home and Museum, still standing in its original footprint on Kit Carson Road in Taos, was built circa 1825 and purchased by Carson as a wedding gift for his third wife, Maria Josefa Jaramillo, a member of a prominent Taos family. The territorial-style adobe building was to be their home for the next 25 years. Seven of their eight children were born and raised in the home, along with several Native American children who had been freed by the Carsons from captivity. The Carsons moved to Fort Garland,
Colorado, in 1866, leaving many of their possessions behind. After the death of Josefa on April 27, 1868 and Kit shortly thereafter on May 23, 1868, the home changed ownership six times before it was purchased in 1911 by the Grand Masonic Lodge of New Mexico to be maintained as a memorial to Freemason Kit Carson in perpetuity. THE MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM 1504 Millicent Rogers Road Open Tue.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $10 per adult; $8 for seniors; $6 for military (active or veteran), $6 for students (1621 with ID), $2 per child (6-16), free admission for children under 6; free admission for Taos County residents; tour rates and discount cards for multiple visits are available. Please note that during the winter months, from November through March, the museum will be closed on Mondays. The museum will close for the following holidays: Thanksgiving Day; Christmas Day (early closure 3 p.m. on Christmas Eve); and New Year’s Day (early 3 p.m. closure on New Year’s Eve). (575) 758-2462, millicentrogers.org Established as a memorial to Millicent Rogers whose inspiration, patronage and collections form the cores of its holdings. Rogers (1902-1953) was the granddaughter of Henry Huttleston Rogers, one of the founders of the Standard Oil Company. At her homes in New York, Virginia, Italy and elsewhere, she entertained the great and splendid from American industrialists to European nobility. She was the fashionista of her day. In her later years, she visited and eventually settled in Taos, New Mexico. Here, she became close friends with many of the founding members of the Taos artist’s colony. Her namesake museum houses 20 separate galleries featuring the heritage
This year, the Millicent Rogers Museum celebrates its 60th anniversary, and is taking this opportunity to showcase the finest pieces in the museum’s collection by developing a robust calendar of events and exhibitions. The majority of the museum’s collection is representative of the diverse Indigenous and Hispanic cultures of the Southwest with particular strengths in the traditional arts of Northern New Mexico. “Crossing Paths: Beadwork from the Millicent Rogers Museum and E. Irving Couse Collections,” Sept.1, 2016-Jan. 31, 2017, focuses on the history of beadwork in the region — an art form not typically associated with the Southwest. This exhibition will be complemented by multiple events directly related to the artworks on display. More special winter events: Holiday Fiesta Dec. 3, Miniatures Show and Sale Feb. 10-March 5 and the 5th annual Taos Pueblo Artist Winter Showcase March 10-12. TAOS ART MUSEUM AT THE FECHIN HOUSE 227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte Open Tue.-Sun., 10 a.m.-4 p.m. $10 per adult; $9 for seniors; $6 per student; $8 per person in groups of 10 or more; free admission to children under 12; free admission on Sundays for Taos County resident; private tours by appointment. Always free to visit the museum grounds and store. Please note the following holiday closures: Museum closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Museum closes at 1 p.m. on Thanksgiving Eve, Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve. (575) 758-2690, taosartmuseum.org The former home and studio of artist Nicolai Ivanovich Fechin, showcasing a blend of early 20th century Russian and Southwestern artworks. Fechin built the home for his family between 1927 and 1933. Fechin, born in Kazan, Russia in 1881, carved and molded the adobe buildings into a fascinating, harmonic marriage of Russian, Native American and Spanish motifs. Also home to the Taos Society of Artists.
c ch ho oc c o ol al at et e + + c ca as sh hmme er er e Taos’ Taos’ own own hand-loomed hand-loomed Golightly Golightly Cashmere Cashmere + small + small batch batch artisan artisan truffles truffles = all = all locally locally made made 109109 e palace e palace aveave santa santa fe fe 505-989-3887 505-989-3887| |130130 bent bent st taos st taos 575-758-7339 575-758-7339| |open open everyday everyday| |chocolatecashmere.com chocolatecashmere.com discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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New Works by Stephen Quiller Showing Historically Important & Significant Contemporary Works Since 1962
Early March Light, acrylic on aquabord
MISSION GALLERY 138 Kit Carson Road Taos NM • (575) 758-2861 •
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renarose.taos@Gmail.com
•
www.collectorsguide.com/mission
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recreation
skijoring ...it can seem like a rather odd combination; more like something dreamed up after the slopes were closed by bored, and possibly inebriated, skiers...
SKIJORING AT RED RIVER
speed skating
Photos by Katharine Egli
meets the wild west by mel a. james
Connect with us! discovertaos.com
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The thunder of hooves, the whoosh of skis on packed snow, the roar of the crowd as the action flies past — this is skijoring (or ski joring), an adventurous and thrilling sport, which has found its way to Red River, New Mexico. While skijoring can refer to a skier being pulled by dog, horse or even motorized vehicle, the
version of the sport featured by Ski Joring America (SA) features a competitive skier being pulled by horse and rider. Equestrian skijoring has found its way to mountain towns all over the West, with the action often taking place right downtown, on main streets and side streets. The sport has competitions in the western states of
Utah, Wyoming and Idaho and is popular in places like Bozeman, Montana, and Leadville, Colorado, which has been holding skijoring competitions longer than any other town in the United States. Skijoring is speed skiing meets the Wild West and it can seem like a rather odd combination; more
like something dreamed up after the slopes were closed by bored, and possibly inebriated, skiers. But the origins of the sport began in Finland as a mode of transportation, with dogs doing the pulling. The name itself translates from Norwegian as “ski driving.” Over time, Continues on 57
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the sport has evolved into a fast-paced thrill ride that features cowboys and skiers racing as a team. It can now claim status as a legitimate sport, having been featured in the past as a demonstration sport at the Winter Olympics. Once it found its way to America, it got faster and more adventurous, with competitive courses that feature jumps and obstacles popping up to add to the excitement. The first skijoring event in New Mexico was held last January in Red River. Hosted by Dallyup Events, it was the kickoff location for the Skijoring America (SA) 2016 season, and the event ended up breaking records for the most competitors in any SA event up to that point. This led to SA having their most successful year yet. Even though 2015 was the first year for skijoring in New Mexico, the winner of the Southern Rockies regional competition happened to be a New Mexican girl from Aztec named Savannah McCarthy. Dallyup Events is once
The mountain town of Red River, with its Old West style and snow ski culture, really is the perfect fit for this type of sport. again hosting this year’s event, in partnership with the town of Red River and Red River Ski Area. Jodee Thayer of Dallyup, has this to say about what inspired the decision to bring Skijoring to Red River: “As a lot of good ideas do, it came up in a bar {laughs} — that this would be a good fit for our culture.” The mountain town of Red River, with its Old West style and snow ski culture, really is the perfect fit for this type of sport. The event is held downtown on River Street, one block southwest of Main Street. The course is built from natural snowfall that is collected ahead of time in preparation. “As soon as it starts snowing, we start stockpiling snow in a vacant lot,” says Thayer. Right before the event, the town hauls the snow to the site and dumps it out onto the street.
Red River Ski Area then brings their snow grooming equipment down from the mountain and prepares the course under the direct supervision of Ski Joring America to ensure accuracy and safety. The course itself is 800 feet long and features three pro class jumps, which can be as high as 6 feet, and three novice sport class jumps, which are usually around 2 to 3 feet high. Each division also has its own set of slalom gates and two to three sets of ring grabs, depending on the class. This year will see the same three competitive divisions as last year: Novice, Sport and Open, but this year, they plan to add an Exhibition class, which will be held Sunday after the race. This additional class is intended for anybody who wants to try it out and have a little fun without the pressure of
consistency competition. of the snow This JOIN THE FUN to ensure a is a free JANUARY safe running spectator environevent, with 13-15, 2017 ment for the the crowds horses. lining up on And if the either side of the adrenaline rush of course, allowing for the race isn’t enough for the a true up-close experience competitors, there will be with the excitement. And cash prizes for each division. the event is certainly exciting — with speeds reaching Last year’s purse totaled up to 37 miles per hour $9,800, and Thayer says they and skiers hurtling through hope to offer up to $15,000 the air as the result of bein prizes this year. ing pulled by a somewhat Red River Skijoring is part unpredictable1,000-pound of the three-day Red River animal — it can get your Ski Area Winter Carnival, heart rate up. As Thayer which includes other events says, “It is an extreme event, such as Race the Face, which but we take all precautions sees snowmobilers racing that we can to minimize the full-tilt up the face of the risks.” She explains that Ski mountain. Local watering Joring America inspects the holes like the Motherlode course carefully to gauge and Bull O’ The Woods the proximity of jumps to Saloon will also be featuring on-site obstacles, in addition live entertainment. Join the to measuring the depth and fun Jan.13-15, 2017.
SKIJORING IS A FAST-PACED THRILL RIDE
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Winter Hours at Taos Historic Museums
la Hacienda de los Martinez 575-758-1000 martinezhacienda.org
Blumenschein Home Home && Museum Museum
575-758-0505 blumenscheinmuseum.org
Winter Hours
(Late Nov-Feb) Sunday: 12-4, Mon, Tues, Fri, Sat: 10-4 Closed Wed & Thurs
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Continuum: Light, SpaCe & time
Ken pRiCe-unRepoRteD Sighting ©Ken pRiCe
the haRWooD CoLLeCtion: Blumenschein to Bell october 8, 2016 through may 21, 2017
harwoodmuseum.org
238 Ledoux Street, taos nm 87571
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Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina
FACES OF TAOS NAME Smitty Clark
VOCATION TSV “Ambassador” LOCATION Taos Ski Valley AGE 76
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ROOTS Smitty Clark began teaching people how to Alpine ski at Taos Ski Valley (TSV) in the early 1980s. He left his hometown of Santa Monica, California, that same year to attend a ski instructors’ program at New Mexico Highlands University. Christmas of 1981 was his first winter working at TSV. He was sent to the top of Chair No. 2 to serve as a “body snatcher”: catching people who had trouble getting off the chair cleanly. Smitty also taught “first-timers” — his
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specialty — during spring break that year. In 2015, Smitty declared himself semi-retired and no longer teaches, but because of his deep, intimate knowledge of TSV and skiing, Smitty is now the customer service “Ambassador” to visitors. His wife, Virginia, works in the Ski School ticket office. He is a grandfather to seven grandchildren and a greatgrandfather to 10. Smitty knows the mountain and people new to skiing like the details on the band of his cigar.
IT’S AN INCREDIBLE MOUNTAIN. IT’S NOT JUST A MOUNTAIN — IT’S SPIRITUAL.
to notice that, and have respect for it. If they don’t, they don’t last. One of my favorite things about teaching was I liked seeing people recognize that. • My favorite run is “Around the World,” which is a combo of runs. It’s a great thing to do at 9 a.m. because there’s nobody else there — instructors are the first people to go up the lifts at the beginning of the day — except for other instructors and maybe a couple of young people.
PAT WOODALL Fine Art GAllery And southwest FrAmers tAos
“The Congregation” Oil 30"x40"
Taos Ski Valley Paintings, Oils, Monotypes and Commission Requests
“Embers In The Sky” Oil 16"x72"
Luxury Vacation rentaL “Casa Carmen” Availability casacarmentaos.com
207 PASEO DEL PUEBLO SUR, TAOS 575-758-3320 575-770-0393 cell www.PATwOODALL.com patsart@taosnet.com discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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Meet the Girls! Caren Lorber Studio / Gallery
107-D Plaza Garcia, Taos
(around the corner from Michael’s Kitchen)
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(575) 779-9437 CarenLorber.com
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FROM
SUBLIME TO SIMPLE
TAOS LODGING WHEN LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO REST YOUR WEARY HEAD IN TAOS, THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF OPTIONS. WHETHER YOU’RE ON A BUDGET OR LOOKING FOR A LUXURY EXPERIENCE, NORTHERN NEW MEXICO HAS ACCOMMODATIONS TO FIT EVERY NEED. ADOBE & PINES INN BED AND BREAKFAST 4107 State Road 68, Ranchos de Taos (575) 751-0947, 855-828-7872; adobepines.com ADOBE & STARS BED & BREAKFAST INN 584 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco (575) 776-2276, 800-211-7076; taosadobe.com ALPINE VILLAGE SUITES 100 Thunderbird Road, Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-8540, 800-576-2666; alpine-suites.com AMERICAN ARTISTS GALLERY HOUSE BED & BREAKFAST 132 Frontier Lane, Taos (575) 758-4446, 800-532-2041; taosbedandbreakfast.com AMIZETTE INN BED AND BREAKFAST 1295 State Road 150, Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-2451, 800-446-8267; amizatteinn.com AUSTING HAUS BEAD & BREAKFAST 1282 State Road 150, Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-8751, austinghaus.com BAVARIAN LODGE 100 Kachina Road, Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-8020, 888-205-8020; thebavarian.com THE BLAKE AT TAOS SKI VALLEY (After Feb. 1, 2017) 888-432-5253, skitaos.com BURCH STREET CASITAS 310 Burch Street, Taos (575) 737-9038; casitasintaos.com CASA BENAVIDES BED & BREAKFAST INN 137 Kit Carson Road, Taos (575) 758-1772, 800-552-1772; taos-casabenavides.com CASA GALLINA 613 Callejon Road, Taos (575) 758-2306; casagallina.net
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Courtesy photo The Mayan Room. No two rooms at El Monte Sagrado are exactly alike. COLUMBINE INN & CONFERENCE CENTER 1288 State Road 150, Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-5723, 888-884-5723; columbineinntaos.com DAYS INN TAOS 1333 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 758-2230; daysinn.com DREAMCATCHER B&B 416 La Lomita Road, Taos (575) 758-0613; dreambb.com EDELWEISS LODGE AND SPA 106 Sutton Place, Taos Ski Valley (575) 737-6900, 800-458-8754; edelweisslodgeandspa.com EL CAMINO LODGE 615 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 737-0447, elcaminolodge.com EL MONTE SAGRADO 317 Kit Carson Road, Taos (575) 758-3502, 888-213-4419; elmontesagrado.com EL PUEBLO LODGE 412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575) 758-8700, 800-433-9612; elpueblolodge.com
HISTORIC TAOS INN 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575) 758-2233, 877-807-6427; taosinn.com
LA POSADA DE TAOS BED AND BREAKFAST 309 Juanita Lane, Taos (575) 758-8164; laposadadetaos.com
HOTEL LA FONDA DE TAOS 108 S Plaza, Taos (575) 758-2211, 800-833-2211; lafondataos.com
MABEL DODGE LUHAN HOUSE 240 Morada Lane, Taos (575) 751-9686; mabeldodgeluhan.com
HOTEL ST. BERNARD AND CONDOMINIUMS 112 Sutton Place, Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-2251; stbernardtaos.com
OLD TAOS GUESTHOUSE INN Bed and breakfast 1028 Witt Road, Taos (575) 758-5448; oldtaos.com
INDIAN HILLS INN 233 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 758-4293, 800-444-2346; indianhillsinntaosplaza.com INGER JIRBY’S GUEST HOUSES 207 Ledoux Street, Taos (575) 758-7333; jirby.com INN ON LA LOMA PLAZA 315 Ranchitos Road, Taos (575) 758-1717, 800-530-3040; vacationtaos.com INN ON THE RIO 910 Kit Carson Road, Taos (575) 758-7199, 800-737-7199; innontherio.com
HACIENDA DEL SOL Bed and breakfast 109 Mabel Dodge Lane, Taos (575) 758-0287, 866-333-4459; taoshaciendadelsol.com
KACHINA LODGE 413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575) 758-2275, 800-522-4462; kachinalodge.com
HAMPTON INN TAOS 1515 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 737-5700; hamptoninn3.hilton.com
KANDAHAR CONDOMINIUMS 35 Firehouse Road, Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-2226; kandahar-taos.com
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PALACIO DE MARQUESA 405 Cordoba Street, Taos (855) 846-8267; marquesataos.com QUAIL RIDGE TAOS A condo resort State Road 150 (Ski Valley Road), El Prado (575) 758-2211; quailridgetaos.com POWDERHORN SUITES AND CONDOMINIUMS 5 Ernie Blake Road, Taos Ski Valley (800) 776-2346; taospowderhorn.com QUALITY INN 1043 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 758-2200, choicehotels.com RIO HONDO CONDOMINIMS 6 Firehouse Road, Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-2646, 800-461-8263; riohondocondos.com SAGEBRUSH INN AND SUITES 1508 Paseo del Pueblo Sur,
Taos (575) 758-2254, 800-428-3626; sagebrushinn.com SAN GERONIMO LODGE 1101 Witt Road, Taos (575) 751-3776; sangeronimolodge.com SUN GOD LODGE 919 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 758-3162, 800-821-2437; sungodlodge.com SUPER 8 1347 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos (575) 758-1088; super8.com TAOS COUNTRY INN BED & BREAKFAST 720 Karavas Road, Taos (575) 758-4900; taos-countryinn.com TAOS LUXURY PROPERTY RENTALS 106 Sutton Place, Taos Ski Valley (575) 737-6901; taospropertyrentals.com TAOS MOUNTAIN LODGE 1346 State Road 150, Taos Ski Valley (575) 776-2229; taosmountainlodge.net TOUCHSTONE INN 110 Mabel Dodge Lane, Taos (575) 770-3246; touchstoneinn.com WORLDMARK TAOS 229 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos (575) 751-3275; worldmarktheclub.com
Representing the Historical Classics and Best Contemporary Artists
One Location * Worldwide WE shIP EvEryWhErE
San Idelfonso Pottery by Martha Appleleaf and Eric Fender. Santa Clara Pottery by Sharon Naranjo, Taos Drums by Lee Lujan; Navajo Weaving by Charlene Laughing
Meet our Artists Andersen Kee robin Lieske Buck taylor shera Maher Virgil stephens
Hand crafted 14k gold bracelet inlayed with Natural Morenci Turqoise and Australian Crystal Opal by Gabriel Abrums. Exclusively at Chimayo Trading Del Norte
Contact us for the evaluation and resale of your New Mexico Art Collection “Mother’s Little helper” virgil stephens
seldom Creek ranch 118 Camino De La Placita Info 575-751-3158 seldomcreekranch.com
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Taos Tin Works E ExquisitEly xquisitEly H HandcraftEd andcraftEd by by
Lighting· ·Mirrors Mirrors · Panels Lighting 1.8 Miles North Taos Plaza · Open Daily Home Decor · Gifts
1204-D Paseo del Pueblo Norte P.O. Box575.758.9724 54 · Taos, NM 87571 1204-D Paseo del www.taostinworks.com Pueblo Norte 1.8 miles north Phone: of Taos Plaza 575.758.9724 taostinworks.com
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THE ONLY GUIDE DEVOTED EXCLUSIVELY TO TAOS COUNTY GALLERIES, ARTISTS, AND STUDIOS.
Read Northern New Mexico’s Premier Arts Guide online at
galleryguideoftaos.com ‘A Man of Taos,’ Tony Lujan, Taos Pueblo,” 1930. Ansel Adams, Gelatin silver print. 17 5⁄16 x 13 in. Collection for Creative Photography, The University of Arizona © 2015 The Ansel Adams Publishing Rights Trust.
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La Tierra Mineral Gallery
124-K Bent Street, Taos, NM 87571 Latierra1111.com • 575.758.0101 www.latierragallery.com discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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DO ASK, DO TELL The mostasked questions about Taos Compiled by Susan Cady, Taos County Chamber of Commerce executive director
The Town of Taos Visitor Center Staff and the Taos County Chamber of Commerce get questions from visitors every day. Most include inquiries about where to stay and where to eat. Here are some of the most frequently asked questions with a few you might not expect.
01. “Will it snow on Christmas?”
That is tough to answer any time of year! We usually say there will be good snow for skiing and sledding on the winter slopes.
02. “What day do the trees change color?”
Last two weeks of September until first two weeks of October you will be able to see spectacular fall colors somewhere around the Enchanted Circle.
03. “What is the Enchanted Circle?”
An 87-mile loop around the highest peak in New Mexico. It connects the Northern New Mexico communities of Taos, Angel Fire, Eagle Nest, Red River and Questa.
04. “How can I get to Taos Ski Valley from the airport?”
The Taos Ski Valley runs a shuttle from the Albuquerque Sunport with a stop at the Santa Fe Airport and then stops as needed in Taos and up to the Taos Ski Valley.
05. “What is there to do in Taos?”
It is now that we ask how much time you have, what you are interested in and do you have any physical restrictions. We tell visitors about the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Taos Pueblo and always encourage that a visit here should include a visit to the Pueblo. We offer a long list of outdoor adventures that include hiking, biking, fishing, rafting, llama trekking and more. We offer long lists of galleries, museums, art classes, cooking classes and shopping. Visit the Earthships and Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs, enjoy live music, wide variety of delicious food prepared by local chefs, local breweries and wineries. Winter downhill skiing, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, tubing, ice skating are all available until spring.
06. “What is there for kids to do?”
There is the Taos Youth & Family Center with a pool, ice skating and skateboarding. Our local discovery space is Taos Twirl with its educational toys and a great outdoor play area. We tell them to visit the local Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory after family hikes on some of the easier trails and during the summer, zip lines and chair-lift rides are offered by summer and ski areas around the Enchanted Circle.
07. “Where are the ruins?”
Uh, we don’t have any ruins nearby but, there is the Taos Pueblo, a living World Heritage site that has been continuously occupied for more than 1,000 years.
08. “How high do you have to be to see the deer turn into elk?” Um, did you come in from Colorado? Elk and deer are different animals and both can be seen at all elevations.
09. Whispering, “Where do the locals go eat?” We share about all the restaurants’ locations and their specialties.
10. “Can we drive up to Wheeler Peak?” No, but you can hike up Wheeler Peak.
11. “Is this the Visitor Center? It looks like a gallery!”
The town of Taos Visitor Center is a venue for local artists to sell their work and has a great selection of gifts. Another fantastic aspect of the Taos Visitor Center is the Carson National Forest room with maps and directions for all the hiking trails in the area. The staff at the Taos Visitor Center has a combined 83 years of service to the visitors of Taos — they know it because they have seen it all and done it all. The Taos Visitor Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. It is located at 1139 Paseo del Pueblo Sur at the Paseo del Cañon intersection. (575) 751-8800, taoschamber.com 070
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FUN FACTS 01. THE MILE HIGH CITY, Denver (5,130 – 5,690 ft.), has nothing
on New Mexico, as Santa Fe is 7,000 feet above sea level, making it the nation’s highest capital. Taos sits at 6,967 feet and Taos Ski Valley rises to 9,321 feet at the village.
02. S OME OF THE LIVABLE buildings in Taos Pueblo are more than
900 years old, one of the oldest continuously inhabited areas of America.
03. SMOKEY BEAR is a New Mexico original. 04. ALTHOUGH TOTALS VARY from year to year, from November to March the annual snowfall in the town of Taos averages 32 inches, compared to about 150 inches in Taos Ski Valley. The average high during those months is 46 degrees. The average low is 18.
05. MOST DAYS OF SNOWFALL in Taos leave at least an inch of
fresh snow on the ground. For three or four days a year on average, the amount of new snow totals three inches or more.
06. THE NAME “TAOS” is an adaptation of têotho, “in the village,”
or têobo, “to or toward the village,” the usual references in the Taos language (Tiwa) to the Pueblo. The “s” was the Spanish plural ending. The word “Taos” means “Red Willow People” in the Tiwa language.
07. IT IS BELIEVED that the ancestors of Taos and other Eastern
Pueblo groups moved into the Río Grande area from the north and west, possibly from the Anasazi region of the Four Corners beginning in the 1100s.
08. TRADITIONAL TAOSEÑOS were agriculturalists, depending primarily on maize (corn), beans and squash.
09. IN A TOP-SECRET spruce tree in Taos Ski Valley there is a
lockbox attached to its trunk. Inside the lockbox is a pouron — a glass pitcher with a long, fragile spout — filled with gin martinis. Taos Ski Valley co-founder Ernie Blake started the martini tree tradition back in the 1960s, hiding pitchers in the trees for himself and his friends. He was also known to offer a sip to the occasional ski school student who was too nervous to make it down the mountain without a little liquid courage.
10. PLUTO was discovered by New Mexican Clyde Tombaugh. 072
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Profile Jean Mayer
Utterly unpretentious As TSV D undergoes a mighty makeover, Jean Mayer and the St. Bernard are keeping it real By J.R. Logan
Photos by Katharine Egli Top right: Jean Mayer, owner of the Hotel St. Bernard, never tiring of the view.
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on’t ask Jean Mayer how old he is. Americans have a funny stigma about age, he says. Over here, age puts you in a box. He’s not fond of boxes.
And don’t tell Mayer he’s a legend. Sure, he was arguably a war hero. And sure, he helped create an iconic hotel and one of the greatest ski resorts in North America. But legends are past their prime. Legends are doomed to relive their glory days until they die. Mayer is not. “I don’t really like to go very much over the past. I want to do more and better.” Mayer — who’s 81 by the way — is short and stocky. He’s built strong like a French bulldog, and with the same amiable temperament. His eyes squeeze into a squint when wearing an almost constant smile, showing off the pronounced gap between his front teeth. His quintessential French accent warms the soul like a glass of good Bordeaux. He is the epitome of charm. Utterly unpretentious and perhaps generous to a fault. Next ski season will mark 60 years since Jean Mayer stepped off a bus at Taos Plaza, skis slung over his shoulder. Mayer had been personally recruited by Ski Valley founder Ernie Blake, who hired Mayer to get the resort’s fledgling ski school off the ground. Mayer grew up a ski racer, flying down the slopes of the French Alps as a member of the French junior team and a national champion. Mayer was
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recruited by the U.S. Army to serve with the 10th Mountain Division — an infantry unit on skis. He became head of the ski patrol in Garmisch, Germany, where in 1956, he helped lead Hungarian and Czechoslovakian refugees into Austria and West Germany while the Russians stomped out the Hungarian Revolution. When his stint with the Army ended, Blake recruited Mayer and convinced him to
come to Taos. Mayer says he took immediately to his new home. The terrain was amazing and the snow was deep — sometimes too deep for the heavy wood skis they were on in those days. Not long after he relocated to Taos, Mayer built the first phase of what has today become the sprawling Hotel St. Bernard. Named for the patron saint of skiers — St. Bernard de Menthon — the hotel
is pressed as close to the mountain’s steep front slope as possible. Mayer says this was intentional — he didn’t want anyone building between him and his beloved mountain. Hanging on the east wall of the hotel’s exterior, Mayer hung a sign in 1960 that still hangs today. A traditional Bavarian saying written in German, the sign reads: “On the mountain, there is no sin.” Continues on 76
slow down
~Unplug: Wood-Burning Kiva Fireplaces ~Simplify: Fresh Eggs Daily from “The Girls” ~Relax: With a great novel •••
www.casagallina.net 575-758-2306 Taos, New Mexico
A HISTORIC TAOS GETAWAY Sagebrush Inn & Suites offers authentic Southwest charm amidst modern comforts and conveniences with 156 graciously appointed guestrooms and suites, complimentary breakfast included in all stays, extensive meeting and event space, stunning vistas, onsite dining offering authentic Southwest cuisine including the best Prime Rib in Taos as well as a fabulous Happy Hour, live music, and so much more. sagebrushinn.com 1508 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos, New Mexico 87571 | 575.758.2254
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Profile Jean Mayer
“I want to
recreate the art of conversation between people and families. The luxury is the environment. It’s what’s around you. That’s the wealth. That’s more part of the mountain lifestyle.” —Jean Mayer Continues from 74
In some ways, it’s at the heart of what Mayer has created over decades in Taos Ski Valley. Mayer eschews the typical spirit of the American entrepreneur; he’s not out to make as much money as fast as possible. Instead, Mayer’s success at Taos Ski Valley rests on a simple premise: “Don’t try to make money out of the mountain,” he says. “Give to the mountain and share with it.” From the outset, the business plan for the hotel was modeled on his military experience. At Garmisch, Mayer says soldiers would show up for a week of ski lessons. But off the mountain, they also had to be housed and fed. At Taos, Mayer created the famous learn-to-ski weeks, where guests would pay for an all inclusive vacation including accommodations, gourmet meals and expert instruction. The lodge itself has a classic Old World feel — thick wood beams, copper pots hanging From left: Jean Mayer, owner of the Hotel St. Bernard. Mayer looks fondly upon all of the memorabilia and photographs garnered throughout the years.
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on the walls and an iconic copper fireplace in the center of it all. Legendary ski filmmaker Warren Miller once quipped that the St. Bernard is “more European than Europe.” For generations of families, the St. Bernard is a second home. Mayer has not strayed from the model of all-inclusive, weekly visits. It’s one part of Mayer’s formula of encouraging guests to unplug from the distractions of the modern world and reconnect with family and friends. Most of the rooms and condos at the St. Bernard complex don’t have TVs, and those that do have screens as small as an iPad. For meals, Mayer employs a loyal and highly skilled kitchen staff that pumps out three square meals of gourmet cooking each day. A recently published cookbook based on dishes from the hotel includes recipes for Ratatouille Niçoise and Rack of Lamb Provençale. Everyone sits at long trenchers, and Mayer still waits on everyone, personally delivering food from the kitchen to the table. His goal: create an atmosphere where people relax and open up with one another. “I want to recreate the art of conversation between people
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and families,” Mayer says. “The luxury is the environment. It’s what’s around you. That’s the wealth. That’s more part of the mountain lifestyle.” In fact, over the course of a 90-minute interview, Mayer says the words “ambiance” and “lifestyle” at least a half-dozen times each. It’s because both are central to what he’s doing and why he’s doing it. The St. Bernard leans on a reliable list of loyal guests who come back year after year, some for multiple generations. It also functions as thanks to the dedication of longtime employees, some of whom are also second-generation staff. In his nearly 60 years at Taos Ski Valley, Mayer has been through all of the ups and downs. He’s seen more than one person fly into town proclaiming they’re going to “save” Taos Ski Valley, only to be sent out on a rail. At the moment, the Ski Valley is in the midst of another transformation. In 2013, the Blake family announced it was selling the resort to billionaire Louis Bacon, a New York
hedge fund manager who’s also known as a conservationist and philanthropist. In less than three years, Bacon has poured millions into the Ski Valley, building a new lift up Kachina Peak, and financing a massive base area makeover worth tens of millions of dollars. Less than 100 yards from the St. Bernard’s front doors, the resort is putting the finishing touches on The Blake — an 80-room, state-of-the-art facility that will include a spa, outdoor hot tubs, outdoor pool and a tapas bar. It’s hard not to wonder how much of an impact the Ski Valley facelift and shiny new hotel will have on a half-century old mainstay like the St. Bernard. Mayer acknowledges that things are changing, and he’s willing to adapt as long as he doesn’t sacrifice his core values. In response to that pressure, Mayer has invested in some modest upgrades. He’s most proud of the new exterior doors with windows on all the rooms. But it’s about as far
as Mayer is willing to budge toward modern standards of luxury. For the first time, the St. Bernard will also charge a flat rate for guests this coming ski season, regardless of the time of year. Mayer says he never felt like it was fair to charge people more during the peak periods. For some families, that’s the only time they can visit, and he doesn’t want to gouge them just because
he can. There’s no doubt the St. Bernard’s accommodations are nowhere near as sleek as the meticulously designed rooms at The Blake down the hill. But in a way, that’s the point. Mayer is not a fan of the cookie cutter, sterile look on many modern hotels. “There’s no feeling. No emotion. No ambiance,” Mayer says. “You know you’re going to get this, this and that. It’s all very
bland.” His lodge, by contrast, is intentionally homey, intentionally cozy. And perhaps unintentionally, delightfully funky, down to the woodplanked hot tub and Wurlitzer jukebox. “It’s original and organic,” Mayer says proudly, as if nothing could be better than being beside friends in a warm room with a comfortable chair and a good drink.
Mayer is adamantly upbeat about the flurry of activity at the Ski Valley today, though he admits it was emotionally taxing to see the Blake family sell. He speaks highly of Bacon — admires his “go-for-it” attitude and respects Bacon’s reverence for the mountain itself. For years, Mayer says he’s been approached by buyers offering large amounts of money to buy him out. His is in a prime location, and one that
investors have been eyeing for years. It’s happened recently, Mayer says, though he credits Bacon for not approaching him personally — something Mayer would consider an insult. But why not? Why not sell out, take the money and spend the rest of his life in Hawaii, which is already his second home during the summer. Mayer says it’s simple. He didn’t come all the way from
Europe 60 years ago to make a fortune. He came for a lifestyle. And he has created a place that is, at its heart, about friends and family. It’s not an asset to be sold. It’s a part of him. It is him. And the last thing he wants to do is give that up. “With all the changes that are happening here, there’s one thing that doesn’t change: the mountain,” Mayer says. “It’s good here. It’s a good life.”
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EXPERIENCING TAOS AS HOME Courtesy image Inside the AirBnB Taos vacation rental property called Stella Luna.
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AIRBNB COMES TO NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
ince AirBnB WHETHER YOU came to Taos, the landscape WANT SOMEof vacation THING RURAL rentals has WITH STUNNING changed. While rentals used to be VIEWS OF THE in the realm of hospitalMILKY WAY AND ity business professionals, now your average Taoseño LOCAL WILDLIFE, can offer up their spare OR A HISTORICAL bedrooms to out-of-town visitors. And for a town like ADOBE RIGHT Taos, that means a wide variety of creative and interest- DOWNTOWN ing places to stay. The way WITHIN WALKAirBnB works is through a peer-to-peer exchange, rath- ING DISTANCE OF er than through a company. SHOPS AND RESIt’s part of the new trend of TAURANTS, TAOS a shared economy, where businesses like AirBnB and HAS GOT IT. Uber give average people the opportunity to earn a their own homes and cars. little extra cash by using If you were looking what they already have: to stay in a really unique 078
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property, you would be hard-pressed to find a location with a wider variety of unusual and interesting choices than Taos. This town has a history of experimental architecture, with Earthships and strawbale homes dotting the landscape. But if you are looking for a warm, sophisticated and modern adobe, that option is available as well. Interested in something a little more vintage? You can find an Airstream trailer or two. How about a railroad boxcar or school bus? Or perhaps you’d like the experience of staying on a farm and collecting eggs for your breakfast omelet. If you are interested in something with some history, there are a number of properties with ties to Taos’ past, some of
them once serving as homes or studios of famous Taos artists and some of them on the National Register of Historic Places. Whether you want something rural with stunning views of the Milky Way and local wildlife, or a historical adobe right downtown within walking distance of shops and restaurants, Taos has got it. The advantage to peer-topeer rentals is that the places where one stays often feel more like a home and less like a rental. Sanjay Poovadan, a local realtor who has three properties on AirBnB, shared his experiences as a renter as motivation for providing satisfactory service to his guests. When traveling with his family in Colorado for
BY MEL A. JAMES
ski events, they would stay in vacation rentals and it got him to thinking about how he would do things differently. “We realized that there was so much we wanted, but didn’t get,” Poovadan said. “We asked ourselves what we would like to see in a vacation rental.” He stresses that it is important to feel welcomed, and that he wants his properties to feel like a home away from home. The uniqueness of Taos is what draws people here — the landscape and the architecture hold fascination for many visitors. By staying in a Taos home, one can truly experience what it is like to live in this remarkable and special place. Find your special home-away-from home and stay awhile.
"I think New Mexico was the greatest experience from the outside world that I have ever had. It certainly changed me forever. In the magnificent fierce morning of New Mexico one sprang awake, a new part of the soul woke up suddenly, and the old world gave way to a new." ~D.H. Lawrence
Call 575.758.2241 and we will mail you our monthly Homes real estate magazine showcasing Taos, Angel Fire and Red River for free. Over 500 properties can be found at enchantedhomesller.com discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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Casitas Suites A B I& Q U I U ABIQUIU I N N INN
Cafe Abiquiu & La Terraza Cafe Abiquiu & La Terraza, Casitas & Suites abiquiuinn.com 844-841-3303
Cafe Abiquiu & La Terraza
Casitas & Suites abiquiuinn.com | 844-841-3303
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Bed & Breakfast Fine AccommodAtions oF tAos
CASA GALLINA Located just five minutes from the historic Taos Plaza, in a quiet, pastoral, farmland setting, Casa Gallina’s five adobe casitas offer an oasis of home and renewal for visitors to Taos. Casa Gallina is the perfect base for exploring the Taos area, and it’s also the perfect place to stay put and to “Slow Down.” casagallina.net • 575-758-2306 • 609/613 Callejon, Taos, New Mexico
DREAMCATCHER BED & BREAKFAST Walkable to the Plaza but nestled in a quiet, wooded neighborhood, you will experience the true charm of Taos. Savor the flavors of New Mexico at 25 wonderful restaurants, and then enjoy the comfort of John’s breakfast creations. Snuggle up by your own in-room fireplace. 30 minutes to world-class skiing. Taos is the perfect year-round destination. 416 La Lomita Rd. • 575-758-0613 • dreambb.com
CASA BENAVIDES Casa Benavides inn
Luxury downtown Historic Inn 3/4 Fireplaces, AC, wireless in lobby, extensive art collection, patios,rooms balconies, tubs, Downtown Historic Inn 3/4 block fromblock Plaza.from FreePlaza. WiFi in all 38 rooms, extensiveinternet art collection, patios, balconies, hot tub, luxury avail.,hot fireplaces heated jet and tubs,afternoon KILLER BREAKFAST and lovely afternoon teaBest & desserts. Taosonline 2014 or call for reservations. not operable. KIller BreaKFast tea with desserts included. Voted B&B fourVoted yearsBest in a B&B row.inBook 137 Kit Carson Rd. •Rd. 800-552-1772 • www.taos-casabenavides.com 137 Kit Carson • 800-552-1772 • casabenavides.com
able avail S e g cka Ski pa
HACIENDA DEL SOL
Taos Mountain is our backyard. 12 beautifully appointed guest rooms and suites, Jacuzzi tubs, steam showers, kiva fireplaces and an outdoor hot tub. www.taoshaciendadelsol.com 575-758-0287 • 866-333-4459 082
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Inn on La Loma PLaza A Historic Taos landmark, 2 blocks from downtown, featuring exceptional hospitality, Southwest ambiance and old world charm. Enjoy expansive gardens, mountain views, fantastic full breakfast, and romantic rooms with fireplaces. Peggy & Jerry Davis, Innkeeper • 315 Ranchitos Road, Taos, NM 87571 800-530-3040 • 575-758-1717 • laloma@VacationTaos.com • VacationTaos.com
La Posada de Taos Bed & BreakfasT... a PLace Like No oTher! La Posada de Taos is a historic adobe inn just two blocks from the Taos Plaza. As the first B&B in Taos, La Posada is unique among the town’s small Inns. The home has stayed true to its roots as a Pueblo-style Hacienda. The six guest rooms are each decorated in a style true to Taos & original artwork adorns the walls throughout the home. 309 Juanita Lane, Taos 800-645-4803 www.laposadadetaos.com
MABEL DODGE LUHAN HOUSE HISTORIC INN AND RETREAT CENTER
Warm adobe charm and early century elegance in a secluded setting with panoramic views. Walk to the Plaza. Full gourmet breakfast. www.mabeldodgeluhan.com • 575-751-9686 or 800-846-2235
HOSPITALITY AT ITS FINEST 14 Outstanding Bed and Breakfast Inns in Taos! Whether you want rustic or artistic, mountain views or in-town convenience, New Mexican home cooking or European elegance, settle in and discover Taos. www.taosbandbinns.com
TAOS ASSOCIATION OF BED AND BREAKFAST INNS
ONLINE ANYTIME
taosmenus.com
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eat drink dine
for the love of
chocolate 084
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>>> taos just got even sweeter thanks to chokolá bean to bar by teresa dovalpage
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here has never been a better time to be a chocoholic. Many chocolate makers are moving away from large-scale, industrial production and focusing on small, handmade batches made with organic ingredients. Master chocolatier Javier Abad points out that chocolate, like wine, comes in a range of distinctive notes, flavors and nuances. “The best ones are carefully crafted and intended to be enjoyed while relishing the experience,” he said. “At Chokolá Bean to Bar, we make sure that this experience becomes a memorable one.” The store, just off Historic Taos Plaza, is owned by Abad and his wife, Debi Vincent. They sell hot chocolate shots with lavender, raspberry, vanilla bean and other flavors. Among their most popular specialty drinks are Drinking Elixir Chocolate in seven flavors, The Snow Fall (hot chocolate with a scoop of white chocolate and vanilla ice cream) and the Chokolá milkshake. They have also created tartlets, biscotti, a variety of truffles, chocolate-chip croissants and ice cream. And there are “tasting trios” that include chocolate mousse, bars, nibs and bonbons. But there is no doubt that the jewel in the cocoa crown is the single-origin chocolate bar. They are made with beans harvested in one specific location, be it Madagascar, Peru or Guatemala. The bars contain
only two ingredients: organic cacao beans and organic cane sugar. “We do the cleaning, roasting, cracking and grinding of the beans, and finally form the bars by hand,” Abad said. “It’s a long process, but very satisfying — as satisfying as the final result.” An interesting fact is that the flavors vary depending on the region where the beans came from. “You can notice the difference between a bar from Madagascar and another one from Peru,” Vincent said. “The weather conditions, the kind of soil and the climate influence the taste of the beans.” In commercial chocolates the taste is diluted by too much sugar, additives, GMO ingredients, cocoa butter and vanilla. In the single-origin bars, their unique flavor is carefully preserved. “That’s why, at our shop, everything starts with the bean,” Abad said. “They have strong personalities and we make them shine in our products.” There are always beautifully arranged sampling plates on the store counter. Patrons are encouraged to “taste first, buy later.” “That’s how confident we are in our chocolate,” said Abad. “Most people try a bit of this and bit of that, then decide to sit back and savor a whole serving. We are also happy to answer any question they have about the production process, the origin of the beans and anything else they want to know.” The shop has an open-floor plan so clients and passersby can follow the chocolate-making process from beginning to end. The delicious aroma of roasted cacao fills the shop as the alchemy takes place. “Chokolá Bean to Bar offers a feast for all senses,” Abad said. “That’s how we envisioned it.” Chokolá Bean to Bar is located at 106 B Juan Largo Lane.(575) 779 6174; chokolabeantobar.com.
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eat drink dine Courtesy Taos Ski Valley Fondue Night at The Bavarian features the traditional Swiss dish that originated in the Alps, mainly in and around the canton of Valais (French)/Wallis (German).
fondue night at the bavarian lodge by m. elwell romancito
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hen you think of skiing and fun throwbacks to the 1960s and 1970s, you think of aprés ski firesides. There are happy, rosy faces lit with laughter, candle light and chafing dishes. Everyone is gathered around the central fondue server. Friends with long forks are eating delicious morsels of cheese-dipped bread. If you’re hip to the world of aprés ski, you’ll need no introduction to fondue, but if you’re new to the tradition, fondue is a Swiss, Italian and French dish of melted cheese served in a communal pot over a chafing stand heated with a candle or spirit lamp.
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>>> heirloom fondue recipes served up in a splendid setting
You eat by dipping bread into the cheese using longstemmed forks. The Bavarian is celebrating Taos Ski Valley’s (TSV) legendary Godie Schuetz and his heirloom fondue recipes with a weekly fondue night
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on Tuesdays beginning Jan. 3, 2017, through the season until March 27. Starts at 5 p.m., reservations are required. Dave Smith, communications manager at TSV said, “It promises to be a very memorable evening of food and fun. It will be especially nice on a snowy night. It will make it a very romantic evening in such an intimate setting. The Bavarian is a great place to sit and relax.” The Tuesday Fondue Nights will feature the carefully collected and refined recipes of Schuetz, esteemed TSV personality and presence. The recipes have been handed down and will be dutifully executed by The
Bavarian Lodge’s Chef Gabe Farkash. Schuetz was a personal friend of TSV’s co-founder Ernie Blake and a ski instructor at TSV for more than 35 years. He also owned and operated the famous Casa Córdova Restaurant in Arroyo Seco (now known as Sabroso’s) for 26 years. He was known for his ability to entertain people with his yodeling, singing and for telling stories about fishing and hunting. He was also known for his sense of humor. A native of Switzerland, Schuetz loved his homeland and celebrated it regularly — especially through music, food and his legendary
cheese fondue. During the last 10 years of his life, he introduced and took pride in preparing Swiss cheese fondue at the Bavarian Lodge. Now The Bavarian Lodge is continuing the tradition even as the establishment traded hands. “It should really shape up to be a fun night for those looking for a romantic evening for aprés ski,” Smith said. He stressed that it’s important to call to make reservations because you’ll need directions, and you’ll get the information you’ll need about prices and wine pairings. Call (575) 776-8020 for reservations.
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eat drink dine
sensory paradise
Photos by Katharine Egli Taos Wine Festival
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olor, aroma, complexity and character. These are the terms wine aficionados are familiar with, no doubt, but when you combine the nuances of wine with the all-out adventure of skiing at Taos Ski Valley, you’ve got a winner of an event to advance upon the New Year. The Taos Winter Wine Festival is a multi-day celebration of food and wine with participating local restaurants and more than 40 national wineries. The event is scheduled for Wednesday, Feb. 1 through Sunday, Feb. 5. That means four days to enjoy one of the best ski areas in the region and double down on the sensory paradise that is a wine tasting. All the oenophiles out there know what wine festivals and certainly wine tasting is about. If you are unfamiliar, but are feeling adventurous, a wine festival is exactly the 090
>>> 30th annual taos winter wine festival
involve a much less analytical process for a more general, personal appreciation. A perfect pairing of wine and food elevates the experience to peak levels. Imagine how the pairing of excellent skiing and the Taos Winter Wine Festival makes for a savory not to be missed experience. This year’s Taos Winter experience both newcomer Wine Festival Reserve Tasting and expert will enjoy — the at El Monte Sagrado Living sensory examination and Resort in the town of Taos evaluation of wine. is planned for Thursday, As ancient as the producFeb. 2, in the afternoon and tion of wine is, of course, early evening. In addition, El wine evaluation has developed Monte Sagrado will be the formal ways to measure how venue for the Thursday and a particular vintage shapes up. Friday (Feb. 2-3) afternoon Modern, professional wine wine seminars. Master Somtasters (such as sommeliers melier Joseph Spellman will or buyers for retailers) use a attend the event to moderate specialized terminology to de- all the wine seminars. scribe the range of perceived Spellman is Winery Somflavors, aromas and general melier for Justin Vineyards characteristics of a wine. and Winery. He has worked More informal, recreation- with wine since 1979, al tastings may use similar principally as a sommelier, in Chicago’s top restaurant terminology and usually
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cellars including Tango, Maxim’s, The Pump Room, The Park Hyatt Hotel and Charlie Trotter’s. He has also had stints in wine retail, wholesale and importing companies, as well as with Napa Valley producer Joseph Phelps. He has been a leading wine educator, writer and consultant, and has headlined wine seminars in the United States, the United Kingdom, Japan and Australia. The cornerstone of the Taos Winter Wine Festival remains the Grand Tasting on Saturday (Feb. 4) afternoon at the base of chairlift No. 1 at Taos Ski Valley. Also that Saturday at Taos Ski Valley are two afternoon wine seminars to choose from prior to the Grand Tasting. Both the Reserve Tasting on Friday (Feb. 3) in the town of Taos and the Grand Tasting Saturday (Feb. 4) at Taos Ski Valley will feature 36 world-class wineries pouring their best wines alongside 12
by m. elwell romancito
great Taos and Taos Ski Valley restaurants serving samples of their food. Some of our favorite winemakers are returning this year including Josh Jensen of Calera Wine Co., Mike Etzel Jr of Beaux Freres, Jake Bilbro from Marietta, Martine Saunier of Martine’s Wines and Bill and Dawnine Dyer of Dyer Vineyards. There are many more as well. Nightly wine dinners at dozens of Taos and Taos Ski Valley restaurants will feature vintners up close and personal pouring their wines. The event concludes Sunday (Feb. 5) with a champagne brunch at El Monte Sagrado in town. If you’re adventurous enough to explore Taos and Taos Ski Valley, the Taos Winter Wine Festival is one more feather in your cap (or cork for your collection, if you’re already an oenophile). Tickets and schedule: taoswinterwinefest.com
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eat drink dine Tina Larkin There’s nothing like a hearty meal after a long day of skiiing. Pictured is the schnitzel at the Bavarian Restaurant.
Katharine Egli Ahi tacos at Stray Dog Cantina.
get your grub on at taos ski valley
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hether it’s aprés ski time or your stomach is screaming for lunch, Taos Ski Valley’s (TSV) culinary fare is a memorable experience ranging from New Mexican green chile to Bavarian spaetzle, with authentic margaritas or German beer to wash it all down. 192 at The Blake at Taos Ski Valley — Doors open
to the new hotel and 192 restaurant in February 2017. The restaurant features an open kitchen that allows patrons sitting at the bar to watch the cooks. The menu is tapas and flat bread pizzas, plus wine and beer. (Read more on p. 37) TSV main switchboard 866-968-7386.
The Bavarian Restaurant —
Besides the popular and fun Fondue Night as featured on p. 86, this authentic Bavarian alps’-inspired establishment serves up a gourmet lunch and dinner menu of refined German dishes, all brought to your table by wait staff clad in lederhosen. Aprés ski noshes are served
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>>> where to nosh your way up the mountain from 3-5 p.m. daily. Because the restaurant is not in the village proper, but up the mountain a titch, a complimentary dinner shuttle is available from the base area. Dinner reservations are recommended. (575) 776-8020 or 888-205-8020 Blonde Bear Tavern at Edelweiss Lodge & Spa —
A taste of classic, seasonal dishes originating in the European Alps made with local ingredients. Dine at candle-lit tables in a warm atmosphere flanked by impressive photographs of the valley. For aprés ski, the Blonde Bear Tavern offers ski in/ski out cocktails. (575) 737-6900 Cafe Narnia at Edelweiss
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Lodge & Spa — TSV’s favor-
ite breakfast spot featuring freshly baked pastries and full espresso bar. A breakfast burrito — a New Mexico staple — or a plate of Huevos Rancheros smothered in red or green (or both) chile will get you ready for a day on the slopes. (575) 737-6900
Hondo Restaurant/Snakedance Condominiums — Known for its family
atmosphere, the historic Hondo Restaurant offers an aprés ski menu, a lighter fare meal selection and a handpicked wine list. (575) 776-2277 ext. 230 Hotel St. Bernard — Seats at the legendary dinner table are available to a limited number of non-hotel guests, so call ahead. Adjacent to the restaurant is the Rathskeller Bar — a consummate aprés ski lounge and a mainstay with TSV regulars. Read more about the establishment on p. 74. (575) 776-2251 Martini Tree Bar — A bustling bar known for live
music, quick eats and a great place to catch a game on a big screen. (575) 776-2291 ext. 2285 Molly’s Crepe Escape — A take-out eatery at the base of Lift No. 6. Quality crepes are served up daily for the veggie, sweet dessert and meat lover in all of us. A second location is on Thunderbird Road in the village offering gourmet coffee, homemade confections and chocolates along with her famous crepes. (575) 776-8280 Pizza Shack — Who doesn’t like pizza? This quaint, cozy little hand-tossed pizza place on Thunderbird Road also serves up pasta and Southern-style barbecue with a beer and wine list. Dine in, carry out or call for delivery. Open every day during ski season. (575) 776-8866 Rhoda’s Restaurant —
Slopeside in the Resort Center, Rhoda’s lunches feature soups, New Mexican chile and overstuffed sandwiches and an all-you-can eat breakfast buffet on the weekends. The new dinner
menu features salads, steaks, pastas and daily specials. A children’s menu is available. (575) 776-2005. Tenderfoot Katie’s Food Court — This is the place
to go for a quick, affordable breakfast or lunch at the base of TSV. Service is prompt and there is a wide selection to choose from including burgers, sandwiches and other grill items and pizza. Also featured is an expanded salad bar and a new Grab ‘n Go deli-style station. (575) 776-2291 ext. 2280 Stray Dog Cantina — A local favorite since 1989 in the heart of TSV, the casual Stray Dog boasts awardwinning chile and the best margaritas in town. (575) 776-2894. The Whistlestop Cafe — At the base of Lift No. 6 and near the No. 2 quad chair, this is a great place to meet up with friends for a quick slice of pizza, bowl of soup or cup of Joe while you take a breather. — Staff report
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eat drink dine Arcenio J. Trujillo You don’t have to be a Dallas Cowboys fan to enjoy some NFL action in Taos, but don’t be surprised to run into some at 575 Sports & Co.
score!
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n the mood to nibble on some distinct stadium food while you cheer on your favorite team? How about trying a locally brewed beer while enjoying a game on a big screen surrounded by sports fans and foodies alike? If so, there are a number of friendly and welcoming sports bars in the Taos area dedicated to providing a steady stream of high-definition sports action. Despite the fact that there are no professional sports teams based in New Mexico, geographical alliances exist. Anecdotally, most bartenders would admit that a majority of locals are either Broncos or Cowboys fans, but none claim their establishments as the “headquarters” of any particular team. And if you’re into other sports, like basketball, hockey, boxing or soccer, these multiple-viewing establishments can help satisfy your competitive sweet tooth 098
by arcenio j. trujillo
>>> try these local favorite sports spots to catch the big game
with just a request to change the channel. Located on the south side of town, 575 Sports & Co. establishment is full of surprises. Along with its unique sports memorabilia collection and ambiance, its themed menu is sure to please a hungry group of sports fans. Perhaps you’ve heard of famous stadium favorites such as the Halo Dog from Anaheim, a BBQ Stuffed Baked Potato from Houston,
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Gilroy Garlic Fries from San Francisco, Corn off the Cob from Chicago (White Sox) or a Juicy Lucy Slider from Minneapolis? It’s here that you can get those specialty dishes that aim to replicate that hometown taste. Not claiming loyalties to any particular team or sport, the 575 has five bigscreen televisions with at least one or more of them always showing games in real time. During the National Football League (NFL) season and playoffs, the 575 has an all-day happy hour on Sundays. During halftime or commercial breaks, patrons can toss darts at the two boards hanging on the wall. 575 Sports & Co., 1109 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, (575) 779-8486 The newest of the sports bars, the Taos Mesa Brewing Tap Room, is conveniently situated near the Plaza in downtown Taos. Well-lit and
spacious, the Tap Room features an all-day happy hour on Sundays for the NFL crowds. There are six flat-screen televisions inside the multi-room restaurant and lounge that includes a recreation area with a billiards table, foosball table and a Vogelpiks (Belgian dart game) board. Known for its exceptional, locally crafted stouts and fruit beers, the Tap Room is just the place to try something new this season. Taos Mesa Brewing Tap Room, 201 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, (575) 758-1900 If you find yourself on the northern part of town, the KTAOS Solar Center offers all the Sunday amenities — full bar and restaurant — for sports fans as well. KTAOS offers a spacious lounge with gigantic windows that allow unobstructed views of Taos Mountain and the Sangre de Cristo mountains. If patrons wish to step
outside for an even better view, all-weather speakers pipe the sounds of the game out to the courtyard for an uninterrupted play-by-play broadcast. Happy hour is all day Sunday and brunch specials are available when the Solar Center opens at 11 a.m. KTAOS , 9 State Road 150, (575) 758-5826 A couple more spots include The Burger Stand at the Ale House featuring gourmet burgers and hot dogs, plus house-brewed craft beers, live music and widescreen TVs, and The Gorge Bar & Grill on Taos Plaza, which boasts an incredible menu and TVs around the bar. The Ale House 401 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, (575) 758-5522. The Gorge Bar & Grill, 103 E. Plaza, (575) 758-8866 So come on in, and enjoy the game amongst friends.
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Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina
FACES OF TAOS
ROOTS Jamie packed up his car and left his hometown of Narragansett, Rhode Island, in 1991 looking to attend law school at The University of California, San Francisco. He never made it that far.
Jamie, already an NAME accomplished skier with a Jamie Leeson love for the backcountry, stopped at resorts along VOCATION Owner of Taos Cow/bartender the way for a year of skiing before beginning school. LOCATION Then, he skied Taos Ski Arroyo Seco Valley (TSV). AGE 48; wife, Doony, 47; daughter, • My plans to become a Josie, 10 lawyer went pretty much to
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hell. The skiing here was too good. He and Doony immediately found work at TSV, with Jamie doing “different jobs” and Doony serving cocktails — mostly martinis — to mostly ski instructors at the Hotel Saint Bernard and in 1993, opened Taos Cow, now an award-winning ice cream haven in Arroyo Seco (locally referred to as just “Seco”). They also offer a breakfast and lunch menu. • Jamie and his original business partner (who is no longer involved) started
making their own creamy confections and the idea for Taos Cow morphed from there. Taos Cow has been a popular spot in the village on the way to TSV since 2004-2005: Since 2000, our ice cream has been made in Santa Fe. We make it in a small-batch freezer, just seven gallons at a time. We get our dairy from a small family farm in Albuquerque’s South Valley. It’s an rBGHfree product. There was no good ice cream available around here. And who
doesn’t like ice cream? • Seco is really a gem. There are no chain stores. It’s nice out here. I have noticed more businesses opening up here over the last 20 years. • Why still bartend at the Hotel Saint Bernard every winter? The old-world charm of the place and the focus on skiing, eating and people hanging out with other guests. They don’t come here and sequester themselves in their rooms watching TV. And there is so much history.
Celebrate our diversity. Discover our history.
Northern New Mexico's 2017 Cultural Guide
LAND WATER PEOPLE TIME AT NEWSSTANDS EVERYWHERE
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homegrown* local businesses gone national Taos Mountain Energy Bars
Kyle Hawari and Brooks Thostenson with the mindset of striving to make energy bars that are worthy of Taos — bars crafted with adventurers in mind, with pure ingredients and unparalleled taste, that make you feel powerful and maybe just a little bit wild. TME bars are crafted in a kitchen not a laboratory. With tempting flavors such as Chocolate Buttersctoch, Piñon Coffee, Toasted Coconut, Almond Agave and Caramel Pecan, each bar is unique in taste, texture and experience. TME Bars can be found at local retailers around Taos, including Cid’s Food Market and Taos Java. A box of 12 bars can be purchased online at tmebars.com and amazon.com.
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Vapour Organic Beauty
accesso Siriusware
Vapour Organic Beauty was started in 2008 by Krysia Boinis and Kristine Keheley. Vapour creates high performance formulas that blend pure organic ingredients with fine artinfused color. Vapour leaves out all conventional makeup chemicals and even water. The vivid color comes from mineral-derived pigments.
A piece of the Silicon Valley sprouted up in Taos in 1989, providing clients with excellence in ticketing and admission solutions for world-class venues around the world including ski resorts, theme parks and water parks, cultural attractions, zoos and aquariums and many more.
Everything Vapour is manufactured here in Taos. Not to mention, the facility uses passive solar and wind power. The place to get Vapour products locally is Substance on Doña Luz. They can also be ordered through the web site vapourbeauty.com, and through the national retailer freepeople.com.
Acquired by accesso in 2013, the accesso Siriusware solution continues to deliver streamlined modules for front gate point of sale, memberships and passes, reservations, resource scheduling, retail, food service, gift cards, kiosks, eCommerce and much more. Still based in Taos, accesso Siriusware has offices in 21 states. More information can be found by visiting accesso.com.
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Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina
FACES OF TAOS NAME Ed Sandoval
VOCATION Painter, sculptor LOCATION Taos AGE I turned 30 yesterday
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Ed Sandoval can be found painting on a giant easel outside his gallery on Paseo del Pueblo Norte next door to World Cup Café and around the corner from Taos Plaza nearly every day — so long as the clouds aren’t dropping rain or snow. His signature image in his work is the “old man with the cane,” who came about during the filming of the movie “The Milagro Bean Field War” (1998), from the book by Taos author John Nichols (who also wrote the screenplay). Sandoval
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was living in Truces, New Mexico, at the time and some of the film was shot on his property. And some of his horses were used as well. He started to “hang out” with some of the cast members. One of those cast members was Carlos Riquelme who played the old man Amarante Cordova. “A light bulb came over my head and I went with it.” The old man walking with a cane has been a fixture in his paintings ever since. His ‘51 Chevy 3100 faded turquoise pickup is never
far away. He’s been known to display a painting by propping it up with the truck’s hood. The Chevy, he says, “is the most photographed truck in Taos.” • I was born at home in our Nambe (New Mexico) family ranch. I have a twin brother. When we were born, I pushed him out first so I could hurry up and check out the landscape. We also had a home in Los Alamos. I am an ‘atomic brat.’ When I was little we would come to Taos. I played hoops at
Los Alamos High School and used to play against the Tigers in Taos. We won state my senior year. We would come to Taos for the Fiesta parade. I remember wanting to ride my horse in it. We always had a blast. • Coming to live in Taos was just a migration. I had work in a Ranchos gallery and I would come up to check on that and go twostepping. I decided to see if I could make it here. That was more than 25 years ago.
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From Pizza to shoes and groceries to clothing for the entire family, you can find it all in one place...
Cruz Alta PlAZA Shopping Center clothing • dining • home furnishings • groceries and more! In one convenient location For Leasing Information call 575-741-0220 1100 Paseo del Pueblo Sur • Taos A&R Medical Albertsons Supermarket Beall’s Department Store Burger King Colonial Finance Jane Compton, Optometrist Domino’s Pizza Family Dollar Illusions Salon
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Payless Shoesource Rent-a-Center Star Nails Sun Loan Company Taos Eyewear Taos Herb Co Taos Lifestyle featuring Sleep Santuary Taos Tack Venus Fashion
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recreation
ice fishing Bundle up, walk out onto a frozen lake, drill a hole with an auger and enjoy the solitude.
for the harder breed of angler
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Didn’t get in enough fishing over the summer? Cabin fever a looming threat? No need to stay inside and dream of casting your line. Bundle up, walk out onto a frozen lake, drill a hole with an auger and enjoy the solitude. The best place to ice fish in these parts is Eagle Nest Lake — considered a great place for first-time ice anglers — where you can jig or bait-fish. Eagle Nest Lake is managed by New Mexico State Parks and subject to closure if conditions are unsafe. Be sure and check
if the lake is open for ice fishing before you set out. Eagle Nest Lake typically opens for ice fishing in late December. Get ready to land beautiful Rainbow trout, and Kokanee and Coho salmon. You can find all the equipment you’ll need at the Eagle Nest Marina, including fishing licenses. The store is open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. seven days a week. They also have cabins to rent for overnight stays. See the marina web site at cti-excursions.com or call (575) 377-6941 for more information.
Even in the dead of winter, the sun is powerful here in Northern New Mexico. Be sure to not only dress warmly, wear sunscreen, bring sunglasses and lip balm, but also bring a 5-gallon bucket to sit on and keep your catch in. A child’s sled makes for a great gear hauler. The annual Ice Fishing Tournament held in late January (see eaglenestchamber.org) is a popular event challenging participants to hook fish in four categories: trout/salmon, perch, pike and creel. The lake has long
been known for producing trophy trout, salmon and perch, however, illegally dumped pike have become a predatory menace to the other species. Anglers are encouraged to kill any pike they hook. For more information and current updates about ice conditions, contact Eagle Nest State Park at (575) 377-1594 or for questions about fishing in northeastern New Mexico, call the Dept. of Game and Fish in Raton at (575) 445-2311. — Staff report
EST THW OS NOR F TA O E NER R TH O F COR OOK K. A. L C Z U A D PL LOW YEL
twirl
A PLAY & DISCOVERY SPACE
Free Outdoor & Indoor Play Areas, Hands-on Exhibits & Activities, Coolest Toy Store EVER! Open daily 10am–6pm twirltaos.org (575) 751 1402
PLAYCREATEEXPLORE Twirl, A Play and Discovery Space, Inc. is a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit corporation. Donations to Twirl are tax-deductible.
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love to downhill ski — really I do. I love to be outside in the winter with the sun shining, turning down a nice groomed slope surrounded by evergreen trees. But, I’ve been away from skiing for many years — too many to count. I used to live in Colorado and skied a lot, especially while my son was growing up. But after he got better than I ever was and I moved to Taos, I haven’t skied. And, embarrassingly enough, I’ve never skied at Taos Ski Valley. Not once. My friends in the ski industry say that women like me are a challenge for them — women who used to ski when their kids
were young, but have given it up. In general, fewer women than men ski and ride. Across the country and at Taos Ski Valley, women make up about 40 percent of skiers and 32 percent of snowboarders. The average age for skiers is 34 years old. Last year, I took a cross country ski lesson and that helped inspire me to try downhill again. This is the year I get back into skiing. I asked the experts at Taos Ski Valley what I could do to get ready for ski season. I’m the hiking columnist for The Taos News, so I spend most of the summer and fall hiking the trails at high altitudes — so that is a good start.
Burt Skall, director of Snowsports at Taos Ski Valley, advised me to keep hiking. He says that anything that gets you moving is helpful when preparing for ski season. He adds that core strength is especially important and recommends yoga and bike riding, including spinning classes. There are also ski conditioning classes at many gyms. Locally, High Altitude Fitness is offering a five-week class that helps improve strength, balance, agility and endurance, with a focus on core strengthening. Crossfit Taos (soon to be Crossfit Free World) will also be offering classes that help you get in shape for the best ski season ever.
‘...ANYTHING THAT GETS YOU MOVING IS HELPFUL WHEN PREPARING FOR SKI SEASON. ... DEFINITELY TAKE A LESSON AND TRY SOME NEW GEAR.’ Conditioning can help prevent injury and make you feel more relaxed when you look out over the slopes for the first time in many years, ready for your first run. And surely my muscles will remember what to do. Right? “Definitely take a lesson
and try some new gear,” says Skall. He points out that ski equipment has changed so much in the last few years that bringing out the old skis is like playing music on an eight-track tape deck. “It still plays music, but not the way we are used to hearing it today; same thing with skis.” By the start of the season, the rental shop will be open in the new hotel, The Blake at Taos Ski Valley. You can sign up for a package that includes a 2 1/2 hour morning lesson in a small group, with ski rentals and a pass to ski for the rest of the day. By taking a lesson, you can learn how to work with the
SHAKING OFF THE RUST EASING BACK INTO ALPINE SKIING BY CINDY BROWN
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skis rather than wrestle with them. Skall calls it “flowing with the mountain rather than fighting it.” One of the advantages of taking a lesson is that not only do you get acquainted with new gear and remember how to ski, but also you learn your way around the mountain so that you feel confident when you go off to ski in the afternoon. “The lesson will allow you to go and explore on your own, so that it feels safe to you,” Skall says. Ski school also allows you to connect with other skiers. Skall points out that although skiing is an individual sport, it is really highly social. Just like hiking, it is so much more
fun skiing with family and friends than going alone, not to mention much safer. And what about Taos’ reputation for being a super tough mountain as in “tall, dark, and scary” or “Taos Ski Valley — a four letter word for steep?” Skall promises, “There is a groomed moderate slope off every chairlift, except the new Kachina lift, and lots of green runs as well.” Ok! I’m ready to get back on the skis this year and remember how to flow with the mountain. Next year — snowboarding! Ski school is available at Taos Ski Valley for adults and kids. For more information, visit skitaos.com/lessons/.
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recreation
snowshoeing Imagine being outside in the crisp winter air with the sun shining, trekking through fresh snow into the forest.
walking on ice crystals the adventure of snowshoeing by cindy brown
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Imagine being outside in the crisp winter air with the sun shining, trekking through fresh snow into the forest. One of the best ways to get into nature when the snow is deep is on snowshoes. There are lots of opportunities around Taos to give it a try and enjoy the special crystalline beauty of the outdoors in winter.
ENCHANTED FOREST CROSS COUNTRY SKI AND SNOWSHOE AREA One of the best is the Enchanted Forest, which is located just outside of Red River on Carson National Forest land. There are more than 35 kilometers (about 22 miles) of snowshoe and ski trails. Enchanted Forest offers a dog-friendly area,
as well. “We have guided snowshoe tours. All our trails are well-marked, which makes it easy for first-time snowshoers to have a great day,” says Ellen Miller-Goins, coowner of Enchanted Forest. “We provide groomed trails, warming huts and have ski patrol on hand for emergencies.” Miller-Goins explains
that although the resort is currently for sale, Enchanted Forest will be open this season for snowshoeing and cross country skiing. There are also yurts available for camping and sleds called “pulks” for pulling your gear to the yurts. For more information and pricing, visit enchantedforestxc.com.
TAOS SNOWSHOE ADVENTURES Another way to get started is to sign up for a tour with Taos Snowshoe Adventures. Snowshoe guide Stuart Wilde says that snowshoeing is a good way to get out in the wintertime and explore the great outdoors around Taos. Continues on 118
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“If you can walk, you can snowshoe,” says Wilde, who leads winter excursions in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains around Taos. When asked what makes his tours unique Wilde says, “It’s the solitude of being out in the wilderness that makes it a truly special experience for our guests.” Taos Snowshoe Adventures offers guided snowshoe tours for all levels, from a two hour “Learn to Snowshoe” clinic to a full day snowshoe hike. Snowshoes/poles, snacks and hot beverages are provide, with a hot lunch on half day and full day trips. For more information, call 800-7585262 or visit SnowshoeTaos. com ON YOUR OWN If you already know how to snowshoe and want to head out on your own, there are a number of destinations close to Taos. For a moderate to strenuous outing, the Williams Lake Trail is great for snowshoeing. It begins at over 10,000 feet in elevation at Taos Ski Valley. The road to the hiker’s parking lot on Deer Lane requires a fourwheel drive vehicle during winter months. Once you get to the parking area, look for the signs pointing the way to the trail that have been added, making it easier to navigate around the Phoenix Grill and up to the trailhead — although a stop at the hot chocolate and espresso shack is worth a slight detour. One advantages of recreating at Williams Lake is that there are more amenities here than at most trailheads. In addition to the coffee shack and the Phoenix Grill, the Bavarian Restaurant is located near the trailhead and provides a good place to start or end the day. It might generally take about an hour to cover the two miles to the lake, but in the winter, allow a bit more time for the uphill section. Although this is a popular trail, there is still the opportunity for solitude, especially
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“It’s the solitude of being out in the wilderness that makes it a truly special experience for our guests.” —Stuart Wilde
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WEATHER/SAFETY
A sunny morning can turn into a snowy afternoon. Check weather reports, the Carson National Forest or local outfitters for up-to-date weather and snow conditions. Go with at least one other person and let someone else know when you will be back. If you are new to Taos, allow a few days to get used to the altitude. Taos is located at 7,000 feet and the trails listed here are generally above 8,000 feet and can go as high as 11,000 feet.
CLOTHING
Temperatures will vary dramatically depending on elevation, shade and wind. Start with a base layer that will keep you warm and wick away moisture. Add a second layer of fleece or other insulating material for warmth. Your outer layer should include a shell or lightweight coat that will protect you from wind and wetness. You may be very warm while going up the trail, but could discover you need an additional layer or warm scarf at the top for the descent. Bring plenty of water and high energy snacks, and don’t forget your sunglasses and sunscreen.
GEAR
Taos Mountain Outfitters on Historic Taos Plaza has snowshoes for sale; you can reach them at (575) 7589292. Mudd ‘n Flood on Bent Street has snowshoes for rent and sale, as well as other winter gear; call them at (575) 751-9100. Cottam’s Ski Shops also has snowshoes available for rent at their midtown and Taos Ski Valley locations; call either (575) 758-2822 or (575) 776-8719.
around the lake. Other trails for snowshoeing near the Ski Valley include Bull-of-the-Woods, accessed from the base area parking. This is a more vertical trail than Williams Lake. The Southwest Nordic Center has a yurt for rent, located near the 2-mile mark on Bull-of-the-Woods. There is a wood burning stove and space for up to 10 people. To reserve the yurt, contact Southwest Nordic Center at (575) 758-4761 or go to the website soutwestnordiccenter. com for information. Northside at Taos Ski Valley is also available for snowshoeing. A $5 day pass can be purchased at the Chamber Visitor Center at the Taos Ski Valley. Call for more information and reservations call (575) 776-3233 or visit ridenorthside.com. A favorite for snowshoeing and other winter activi-
ties is Amole Canyon, south of town off State Road 518, just about 30 minutes from downtown Taos. To check conditions, call the Carson National Forest (CNF) at (575) 758-6200 or stop by the Taos field office at 208 Cruz Alta Road.
WILDLIFE Bighorn sheep are attracted to bare hillsides where the snow has melted or been blown away, says Francisco Cortez, wildlife program manager with the CNF. Big game animals often move to lower elevations to find food. Many predators such as bobcat and coyotes will follow. The snowshoe hare might be spotted in areas of deep snow, as the shape of their paws allows them to stay on the top of the snow and run quickly from predators. Birds such as the mountain bluebird, Steller’s jay and nuthatch can be heard and seen in the forest.
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Eagle Nest Lake State Park
Where to eat, drink, soak, sled, club, aprés, float, shop and shred in Taos. discovertaos.com
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SNOWSHOE TOURS • Learn to Snowshoe! • Half Day / Full Day • Overnight Yurt Trips • Full Moon Madness
SnowshoeTaos.com • 800-758-5262
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recreation
snowmobiling tours Zipping through the snow on a motorized sled is a unique thrill...
a different
scenic adventure Make no mistake, a snowmobile tour will lift your spirits. Zipping through the snow on a motorized sled is a unique thrill and there are some Enchanted Circle businesses ready to get you on your way.
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A.A. TAOS SKI VALLEY WILDERNESS ADVENTURES Located in and above Taos Ski Valley, A.A. Wilderness Adventures is one of the most picturesque snowmobile tours you will take anywhere. Let Big Al treat your adventurous side with breathtaking views of the entire Taos Ski Valley atop a trusty snowmobile. During the 2-hour tour, you will ascend from 9,000 to 12,000 feet high into the Sangre de Cristo mountains while enjoying a panoramic view, including New Mexico’s highest point,
Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.). As Big Al says, “Taos Ski Valley has a little known secret — the very same trails used for world-class hiking and horseback riding make for some of the best snowmobile rides available anywhere.” The tour is for adults and children alike. Tour times are 8:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m., and 3 p.m. Call to make a reservation. (575) 751-6051; Taos Ski Valley, bigaltsv.com ANGEL FIRE EXCURSIONS Let the snowmobiles do all the work while you have all the fun. Angel Fire offers more than 50 miles of snowmobile-accessible trails in nearby Carson National Forest. No sled of your own? Angel Fire Excursions can hook you up with guided tours for riders 16 years and older.
(575) 377-2799, Angel Fire, angelfirefun.com BOBCAT PASS WILDERNESS ADVENTURES Bobcat Pass Wilderness Adventures in Red River offers 1- and 2-hour snowmobile tours that take you through the beautiful Carson National Forest back to the Old Red River Pass, a favorite of many. The views are spectacular and will leave you with fond family memories for years to come. Bobcat Pass provides the suits, boots and helmets. Gloves and goggles are also available for rent or bring your own. One-day advance reservations are recommended. (575) 754-2769, Red River, bobcatpass.com RED RIVER SLED SHED Over a 2-hour tour, sled through miles of scenic
winding trails, large open meadows and amazing mountain views. The Red River Sled Shed tour takes you on a 2-hour, 7-mile ride up Trail Canyon with an approximately 2,500-foot rise to the top of Greenie Peak overlooking Red River Ski Area, the Moreno Valley and Wheeler Peak. If 2 hours isn’t enough playtime, Red River Sled Shed offers a 3 1/2-hour tour that makes a 30-mile loop starting with a ride to the top of Sawmill Mountain overlooking San Luis Valley and into neighboring Colorado. Down the back side, the tour stops at the old Spanish Mine. Time is given to free ride in a large meadow. (575) 754-6370, 800395-0121, Red River, redriversledshed.com —Staff report
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photo by Kelley Tredwin
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recreation
xc trails The rhythm of gliding along on the snow adds a pleasant dimension to the experience of being in a Northern New Mexico forest.
THE ENCHANTED FOREST CROSS COUNTRY SKI AND SNOWSHOE AREA OFFERS 33 KILOMETERS OF 12- TO 16-FOOT WIDE GROOMED TRAILS FOR BOTH CLASSIC AND FREESTYLE SKIING.
Photo by Cindy Brown
gliding through winter
you, cross-country skis and nature by cindy brown
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Cross-country skiing is the perfect way to be outside in the winter and enjoy the sunshine and snow in solitude. The rhythm of gliding along on the snow adds a pleasant dimension to the experience of being in a Northern New Mexico forest. You may be lucky enough to see deer, elk or big horn sheep in mead-
ows and hillsides near the trail. If you’ve always wanted to try cross-country skiing, also known as Nordic skiing, there are several options near Taos to learn how and also to go out on your own in the forest. RESORTS AND LESSONS Enchanted Forest is
Power Puff located just CROSSothers outside of COUNTRY SKIING and are more Red River IS ALSO KNOWN challenging on Carson AS NORDIC like Face National Flop Drop. Forest (CNF) SKIING In addition land and was to cross-country established 30 skiing, the area offers years ago. There are more than 22 miles of trails. Some snowshoe trails (see page of them are gentle slopes like 116). There is also a warming
SAFETY TIPS
01. If you are new to the area, give yourself time to become acclimated to the altitude. Most of the trails listed are located at 8,000 – 11,000 feet. Expect to tire more quickly than usual. 02. Go with another person or a group and let someone know when you will be back 03. Be prepared for changing weather conditions and bring extra layers of dry clothes 04. Carry food and water with you 05. Sunglasses or googles are crucial for sun protection 06. Bring maps, compass or GPS 07. Carry a first-aid and repair kit, along with matches 08. Check with the CNF and local outfitters for current snow conditions and avalanche warnings.
You may be lucky enough to see deer, elk or big horn sheep in meadows and hillsides near the trails. yurt accessed by the March Hare Trail. From Enchanted Forest, both Wheeler Peak and Gold Hill can be seen. “We have a la carte lessons, as well as packages that include lesson, rentals and trail-use passes,” says co-owner Ellen Miller-Goins. “Unlike with snowshoeing, lessons are essential to one’s enjoyment at Enchanted Forest. So many first-time skiers make the same mistakes in their technique and we’ve observed many ‘long-time skiers’ who make those mistakes as well. Poor technique leads to early exhaustion and inability to handle skiing downhill, can make an enjoyable day frustrating.” Enchanted Forest offers easy to expert trails. Some of the outlying trails are
designated as more difficult. “Distance is also an important factor in determining degree of difficulty,” says MillerGoins. She adds “Most people can ski most of our trails after a lesson.” At the Angel Fire Resort Nordic Center, there are opportunities for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and sledding. More than 50 miles of trails roll along the Moreno Valley canyons of spruce and pine trees, beginning at 8,600 feet in elevation. For more information, visit angelfireresort. com or call (575) 377-4488. ON YOUR OWN Just about 30 minutes from Taos Plaza off State Road 518, the Amole Canyon area has a series of loops that are open for cross-country skiing. There
are several beginner trails with gentle grades and some are groomed periodically. Look for the blue diamonds that mark the trails. There are courses that vary from one mile to more than six miles, and some with more challenging grades for experienced skiers. Continuing on south past the Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort, look for the Agua Piedra Campground. Near the entrance, there is a log cabin. It was constructed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps and served as a warming hut for one the earliest ski areas in New Mexico. It is now used for events such as family reunions. The open areas near the cabin are good places for beginners to try out their skis, and the Agua Piedra Trail and others offer
more challenging terrain for advanced skiers. On the road that leads to Taos Ski Valley, there are trailheads off to the north that direct you to gorgeous snowcovered trails with many creek crossings that are appropriate for advanced cross-country skiers, if the snow is deep. At the Ski Valley, look for moderately challenging trails like the one to Williams Lake and the steeper Bull-of-the-Woods to Long Canyon Trail. Many of the roads in the national forest are closed to auto traffic in the winter, making them ideal wide open trails for cross-country skiing. For more information on crosscountry ski opportunities in the CNF and directions, visit fs.usda.gov/ or call (575) 758-6200.
Photo by Tina Larkin
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Because the map app on your phone doesn’t work in Taos
taosnews.com/maps
The Official Map fOr TaOs and nOrThern new MexicO
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Proof # 1 Please check copy and spelling, design layout, and color placement.
Vernon Company 2491444 02588 01 Proof Date: 07/27/2011 Item: 403 - Bumper Stickers - Horizontal Layout Size: 11.5 x 3.75 Material(s): White Vinyl removable adhesive Colors: 12 Medium Yellow; 24 Process Blue; 22 Ultra Blue
P1
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Defrost your bones OJO CALIENTE “SKI & SOAK SPECIAL”
S
BY YVONNE PESQUERA
kiers and snowboarders often claim that there is nothing better than a day on the slopes. That is until the lifts close and you head to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa. Then suddenly your “best day ever” just got better. It is common for snow enthusiasts to end their
day with a dip in a hot tub –– but those are generally chemical-ridden. Ojo Caliente (“hot eye”) boasts four different types of sulphurfree, geothermal mineral waters that have flowed from a subterranean volcanic aquifer for thousands of years. In fact, Ojo Caliente is the only hot springs in the world with four different types of mineral water including
Photo by Tina Larkin Ojo Caliente features four different types of geothermal mineral waters.
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lithia, iron, soda and arsenic. The layout of the property is spacious. Eleven pools are filled with different types and combinations of waters with temperatures ranging from 80-109 degrees. Ojo Caliente has been offering its “Ski & Soak Special” since Winter 20102011. Skiers can bring their lift tickets or season passes from any New Mexico ski
resort and receive either 20 percent off entry to the mineral springs, or 20 percent off any room for an overnight stay. The offer excludes holiday periods. Contact the resort for other terms and conditions. Marketing director Wendi Gelfound says, “This offer is very popular at Ojo, especially for ‘aprés ski’ from Taos Ski Valley. Skiers tell
us they love to ‘defrost their bones’ in the steamy, soothing hot springs after a day on the slopes. We designed the special to begin on December 1 after the ski season begins at all New Mexico ski resorts. We extend the special through April 30 so ski patrols and staff of New Mexico ski resorts can enjoy this offer after the ski season
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A visit to Ojo Caliente is an unforgettable experience and its natural setting against the desert cliffs is incomparable. ends.”
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For those skiers and snowboarders staying in Taos, Ojo Caliente is only 37 miles south of town. The drive on U.S. Highway 64 over the Río Grande Gorge Bridge is spectacular. The West Rim Road is paved and the drive is smooth –– though Gelfound says, “Watch out for runaway cows at night!” Day-trippers return-
ing to points south (such Santa Fe or Albuquerque) are encouraged to take this “new way back home” via U.S Highway 285 –– off which Ojo Caliente is located. “Rather than driving through the stop-and-go traffic lights through the middle of Taos, take the beautiful and relaxing drive via Highway 285 without the hassle and pop in for a soak at Ojo along the way,” says Gelfound.
Ojo Caliente is a fullservice spa destination. Accommodations range from the historic hotel to cottages and suites. So if there is someone in your party who doesn’t ski or snowboard, you may want to consider just booking your lodging at Ojo. After all, your non-skiing friend will not be bored. There is hiking, biking, birding and yoga onsite, as well as spa treatments for the body
Courtesy Ojo Caliente/Photo by Ryan Heffernan The Ojo Caliente soak — a little piece of heaven.
and mind. The dining at the Artesian Restaurant is sumptuous in a casual, yet charming, atmosphere. A visit to Ojo Caliente is an unforgettable experience and its natural setting against the desert cliffs is incomparable. Ojo Caliente, which opened to the public in 1868, is more than an “old” springs, it is an ancient springs. Ojo Caliente has been a gathering place and a source of healing for thousands of years. The use of its waters can be traced back to the
earliest human migrations in the region. The ancestors of today’s Native American Tewa tribes built large pueblos and terraced gardens overlooking the springs. Surrounding the more than 100,000 gallons of percolating waters that rise to the surface are excavated ruins of the pueblos. Posi or Poseouinge, “village at the place of the green bubbling hot springs” was the largest of four pueblos that encircled the springs and was home to thousands of people.
OJO CALIENTE MINERAL SPRINGS RESORT & SPA • 50 LOS BANOS DRIVE, HIGHWAY 414 • OJO CALIENTE, NM 87549 • (505) 583-2233 • OJOSPA.COM
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TAKING THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED SOME TIPS FOR SAFE WINTER DRIVING L istings are in Taos unless noted differently.
D
riving through snow can be a white-knuckle experience for travelers from drier climes. But an encounter with a dumping of the white stuff in the Sangre de Cristos just goes with the territory this time of year. No need to be afraid. Common sense and a few tips will soon make you confident driving on snowy roads. SOME WORDS OF ADVICE ACCORDING TO AAA:
• Accelerate and decelerate slowly. • Drive slowly and take turns slowly. • Don’t tailgate. The
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JUST IN CASE: AC TOWING & TRANSPORT SERVICES (575) 758-1111 TOP NOTCH TOWING (575) 751-0047
normal dry pavement following distance of three to four seconds should be increased to eight to 10 seconds. • Know your brakes. Most modern vehicles are equipped with ABS brakes: Stomp (don’t pump), stay and steer. Stomp on the pedal as if you were trying to snap it off. Stay hard on the pedal and smoothly steer around the obstacle. (A warning: A little bit of steering goes a very long way in an emergency.) • Don’t stop if you can avoid it. • Don’t power up hills.
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•D on’t stop going up a hill. Whether on wet or dry roads, most vehicles can decelerate much better than they can accelerate, while cornering power is closer to stopping ability. This means a lot of drivers’ subconscious expectations of braking and cornering power in the snow far exceed what’s truly available.
RECOVERING FROM A SKID:
Gently release the accelerator, leave your hands where they are and allow the car to slow down. Turning the steering wheel more or engaging the brake pedal may result in something bad if tire
traction suddenly returns. Besides driving techniques, winter tires and good wiper blades matter just as much when driving in wintery conditions. It is also a good idea to have some survival items along such as extra outer garments, hats, gloves and socks. Lightweight, high energy food; sunglasses; sunscreen; two quarts of water per person; compass and map; first-aid kit; lighter or waterproof matches; and flashlight with spare batteries. Driving on snowy mountain roads is not so nerve wracking if just a few simple tips are followed.
VIGIL’S TOWING & AUTOMOTIVE (575) 758-3793 WISE TOWING & TRANSPORT TAOS (575) 758-9324 A-1 AUTOMOTIVE & TOWING Peñasco (575) 587-2296 F. GOMEZ TOWING & TRANSPORT Questa (575) 779-8945 J&D TOWING Questa (575) 586-0668 AUTO RENTALS: ENTERPRISE RENT-A-CAR 1354 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur (575) 758-5553 HERTZ 5 Airport Way (575) 751-3119
Profile Jim Long
“Really give it a soul” Jim Long, new El Monte Sagrado owner, talks about this Taos treasure
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Courtesy photo Jim Long, CEO of Heritage Hotels and Resorts
im Long is the CEO of Heritage Hotels and Resorts, which purchased Taos’ 84-room luxury hotel, El Monte Sagrado Resort and Spa, in 2015. El Monte Sagrado was built at a price tag of $70 million. The resort was constructed in 2003 and significantly expanded in 2007 under previous owner Kessler Enterprises, Inc. of Florida. Long is a 12th-generation New Mexican. He grew up in Albuquerque and studied architecture at the University of New Mexico. In the mid-’80s he started a company called American Property that morphed into several successful companies, one of which became a hotel company. In 2005, he formed Heritage Hotels. “I really wanted a company that could show the distinct culture of New Mexico through its architecture, decoration, the art, the cuisine, entertainment, landscape,” he told The Taos News in 2015. “We wanted to celebrate all that but we couldn’t do it through a national chain, so we basically had to create a hotel company to do that. This is our ninth hotel (Heritage Hotels now has 10 properties and Hotel Chaco opens in April 2017). We focus on the cultural corridor, so from Las Cruces to Taos. This property bookends our property down south with a strong presence in Albuquerque and Santa Fe.”
El Monte Sagrado is a very special property. It sits on very sacred earth. Those are aspects of the property that Long embraces: “We want to reconnect [El Monte] in a stronger way to the Taos community and to Taos Pueblo. I don’t know exactly what direction we are going to take with this hotel, but I know this property will be more community oriented than it was in recent times. “It’s really one of the most beautiful hotels in all of New Mexico. You have had two interesting owners in the past. They did a marvelous job creating a very unique place in New Mexico. Honestly, we can’t improve on what they did. But we can add another level of experience to this property, really give it a soul, an expression that truly reflects this place.” Heritage Hotels and Resorts also owns the eightroom Palacio de Marquesa on Cordoba Lane in Taos, which was acquired in 2013 and renovated in 2014. “El Monte Sagrado and Palacio de Marquesa will work in tandem to attract leisure travelers, weddings and groups to Taos,” a Heritage Hotels spokesperson wrote via email. “El Monte will be able to handle overflow when [Palacio de Marquesa] is sold out and vice versa. The two properties will explore sharing other resources as well.”
Palacio de Marquesa’s cultural partner is Taos’ Harwood Museum of Art. They have formed a partnership that provides cash and in-kind donations to the museum, as well as marketing and public relations partnerships. Since El Monte is fairly new in the collection, they will be exploring appropriate cultural partners for that property in the near future. As for what’s new this winter season at El Monte Sagrado, “Corporate Cowgirl” Maresa Thompson, senior communications and creative director for Heritage Hotels and Resorts, divulged that the menu for De La Tierra restaurant has been redeveloped with input from world-renowned chef Mark Miller of Santa Fe’s Coyote Cafe. The new menu is being rolled out
this winter. Also, two-time Grammy award winner Robert Mirabal (from Taos Pueblo) will continue his performances on property. The intensity of his music and theatrical performances have given him the description “Native American Renaissance man” as he is not only a musician and composer but, a painter, master craftsman, poet, actor, screenwriter, horseman and farmer. These exclusive performances are inspired by Pueblo agriculture and will feature music, dance, theater and special guests in a celebration of life. For more hotel information and for Mirabal’s winter performance schedule and ticket information, call El Monte Sagrado at (575) 758-3502 or visit elmontesagrado.com. — Staff report
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pon arriving in the heart of Taos, you will be standing at 6,969 feet above sea level. That number is dwarfed by Wheeler Peak’s 13,161 feet, the highest point in New Mexico, just north of town near Taos Ski Valley. All of which can make you feel like you’re on top of the world. The altitude can also make you feel like you have a hangover without having drank. After driving over a mountain pass, pulling into a mountain resort or alpine hiking, you may get a headache, experience a loss of appetite or restless sleep. This happens most
often to people who are not accustomed to going from lower elevations to 8,000 feet or higher (including Taos Ski Valley, Red River and Ange Fire).. Mild altitude sickness is common. Experts can’t predict who will get it and who won’t. Neither your fitness level nor gender play a role in whether the altitude will affect you. Altitude sickness occurs when you can’t get enough oxygen from the air at high elevations where the air is “thinner.” When you go too high too fast, your body cannot get as much oxygen as it needs. So you need to breathe faster. This causes a throbbing headache and other symptoms of acute altitude
sickness such as poor appetite, nausea, trouble sleeping and dizziness. As your body gets used to the altitude, the symptoms go away. Symptoms can be mild to severe. They may not start until a day after you have been at a high altitude. Remedies for mild symptoms include Tylenol or aspirin for headache relief, Benadryl or sweetened liquids, such as Ginger Ale, for nausea. If any of symptoms are prolonged medical attention is advised. Improving acclimation to high altitude includes sleeping at least a night at a lower elevation, which will speed up your body’s process of acclimatizing.
ALTITUDE SICKNESS OCCURS WHEN YOU CAN’T GET ENOUGH OXYGEN FROM THE AIR AT HIGH ELEVATIONS WHERE THE AIR IS ‘THINNER.’ Meaning, spend 24 hours in Taos before heading up to the Ski Valley, Red River or Angel Fire. Sometimes outdoor enthusiasts can’t wait to snowshoe deep into Carson National Forest or get their skis moving down the area’s slopes, but taking it easy the first day or two can make all the difference in how you feel.
Stop activity when you begin to get fatigued or experience any prolonged breathlessness. Food can also help combat altitude sickness. Increase carbohydrate intake (pasta, rice, pancakes) to 70 percent of your daily total calories. It is also recommended to reduce fat intake and stay hydrated. For the first two nights avoid alcohol, sleeping pills and tranquilizers because they slow your body’s adjustment to elevation. The best cure for mountain sickness is to either slow way down and let your body acclimatize naturally for 24-48 hours or descent when symptoms present themselves.
INHALE 02 OXYGEN BAR (INSIDE HIVE SALON) • 300 KIT CARSON ROAD, TAOS • OPEN 11 A.M.-5 P.M., TUES.-SAT., OR BY APPOINTMENT • (575) 758-7790 • HIVESALONTAOS.COM
BREATHE EASY BE AWARE OF ALTITUDE SICKNESS BY SCOTT GERDES
Chris Dahl-Bredine Kachina Peak
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taos is aglow Taos may be a small town, but the range of festive events here make for a big holiday season. Smithsonian Magazine has called Taos one of the best 20 small towns in American for holiday festivities. Listed on the following pages are some of the season’s highlights. For even more events, see the Calendar on pages 186-191. Continues on 146
Rick Romancito The Procession of the Virgin on Christmas Eve at Taos Pueblo. Photo taken Dec. 24, 2013.
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cello and on flute, TCMG director Nancy Laupheimer. Performances on Dec. 17 and 18 start at 5:30 p.m. in the Arthur Bell Auditorium at The Harwood Museum of Art, 238 Ledoux St.
Christmas Tree! Christmas Tree! Thy candles shine so brightly!
Franz Peter Schubert (1797–1828) was an Austrian composer. Schubert is ranked among the greatest composers of the late Classical and early Romantic eras and is one of the most frequently performed composers of the early 19th century. For 24 years, the Taos Chamber Music Group (TCMG) has reflected the Land of Enchantment by presenting the imaginative and inspirational performances for which it has become known. Programs often reflect the beauty of our surroundings as well as the unique cultural diversity of the Taos area, earning TCMG a reputation as one of Northern New Mexico’s most innovative and successful music series.
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MUSIC, ART AND THEATER 19TH ANNUAL HOLIDAY FIESTA A free community event on Dec. 3, featuring live performances by local music and dance groups at Millicent Rogers Museum. (575) 758-2462, millicentrogers.org ALUMBRA DE QUESTA The 2nd annual Christmas Craft Market in Questa on Dec. 10-11 features a wonderful variety of regional arts and crafts, and festive food. In the European tradition, the weekend event will stay open until just after dark to enjoy the unique vision of thousands of fairy lights and hundreds of farolitos lining the center of town. Contact Dina Coleman at (575) 586-0694 or email dcoleman@villageofquesta.org. TAOS ONSTAGE It can be a challenge to find a new Christmas play — one that hasn’t been seen over and over, isn’t religious based or for children; not that there’s anything wrong with that, but that’s not what Taos Onstage performs. Director Charlotte Keefe of Taos Onstage knows she found a new play in Ken Ludwig’s “The Game’s Afoot or Holmes for the Holidays.” She describes the holiday radio play as “a 146
Photo by Scott Gerdes The holidays come alive at Historic Taos Plaza after the annual lighting of the Christmas tree on Dec. 2.
mystery farce that happens on Christmas Eve.” The play won the 2012 Edgar Award for Best Play from the Mystery Writers of America. It is December 1936 and Broadway star William Gillette, admired the world over for his leading role in the play Sherlock Holmes, has invited his fellow cast-members to his Connecticut castle for a weekend of revelry. But when one of the guests is stabbed to death, the festivities in this isolated house of tricks and mirrors quickly turn dangerous. Then it’s up to Gillette himself, as he assumes the persona of his beloved Holmes, to track down the killer before the next victim appears. The
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danger and hilarity are nonstop in this glittering holiday whodunit. Held at Taos Mesa Brewing on Dec. 13-14, the performance can either be enjoyed in dinner-theater style or by watching the show only. The dinner theater begins at 6 p.m. both nights. Tickets are $30, $15 for the show only. Dinner reservations are required by calling (575) 224-4587 or email taosonstage@gmail.com. The curtain rises at 7 p.m. ROBERT MIRABAL HOLIDAY PERFORMANCE Join Grammy award-winning Taos Pueblo musician/ singer-songwriter Robert Mirabal for a very special holiday performance at the Taos Community Audito-
rium on Dec. 16 at 7 p.m. Tickets are $25 and may be purchased by calling (575) 758-2052 or by going online to tcataos.org. TAOS CHAMBER MUSIC GROUP Now a Taos favorite, virtuoso pianist Gleb Ivanov will return for an all-Schubert program, “Schubert for the Season.” Music that sets the tone for the holiday season includes Schubert’s commanding Wanderer Fantasy for solo piano, the Introduction and Variations on Trockne Blumen from Die schöne Müllerin for flute and piano, and the monumental Piano Trio No.1 in Bb Major. Joining Ivanov on piano are LP How on violin, Sally Guenther on
Call (575) 758-0150 for further concert information. Tickets are $25 for adults; $12 for children under 16 and students. They may be charged online at TCMG’s website taoschambermusicgroup.org or by visiting or calling The Harwood Museum, 238 Ledoux St., (575) 758-9826. Advance tickets can be purchased by calling The Harwood Museum or online at taoschambermusicgroup.org.
CULTURAL TRADITIONS PEACE CHANUKAH This holiday celebration rich in culture is also known as The Festival of Lights. Now in it’s 15th year and growing, the Taos Jewish Center will host the Peace Chanukah on Dec. 28 from 5:30-7 p.m. at St. James Episcopal Church. Taos’ special Chanukah celebration was born from the tragedy of the 9/11 attacks. This highly attended event is heralded as “not Continues on 150
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He’s making a list And checking it twice He’s gonna find out who’s naughty and nice Santa Claus is coming to town Continues from 146
just a Jewish thing,” as those who participate will see and feel the galvanizing power of hope and prayer for peace in an all-inclusive atmosphere. Various community members will speak. This inspirational Peace Chanukah (the “c” is silent) features musicians who will lead the group in singing songs about peace. Everyone is invited and encouraged to bring menorahs (candles provided) to be lit during the event. There is no charge for admittance however, those who can are asked to bring a nonperishable food item to put toward a collection for the Shared Table, the St. James Food Pantry and the Taos Coalition to End Homelessness. The event is sponsored by B’nai Shalom Havurah, the Taos Jewish Center and St. James Episcopal Church. For more information, contact the Taos Jewish Center at (575) 758-8615 or go online to taosjewishcenter.org. LAS POSADAS This traditional re-enactment of the journey of 150
Photo by Katharine Egli Meeting Santa.
Joseph and Mary in their search for lodging as the impending birth of Jesus nears is still performed by some parishioners of San Francisco de Asís Church in Ranchos de Taos and others from area villages from Dec. 16-24. Traditionally, an upstanding young man and woman are given the honor of portraying Joseph and Mary. In full costume, they are accompanied by others holding candles, who sing traditional Spanish verses while going walking from house to house asking for posada (a place to stay). Joseph and Mary are refused lodging for nine consecutive nights before Christmas. On Christmas Eve, they are invited into the last home they visit, with the peregrinos (pilgrims) following along. This beautiful pageant usually begins at dusk and follows a planned route. The public is welcome to watch at any point on the route. Look for candle night and flashlight beams, and listen for the music. For information where Las
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Posadas routes will take place, call the San Francisco de Asís Parish Office at (575) 758-2754.
dancers and female singers — singing in English and Tiwa — as Mary is returned to the church.
PROCESSION OF THE VIRGIN MARY AT TAOS PUEBLO Unchanged and unmatched in wonder and drama, Taos Pueblo holds this special Christmas Eve celebration where friends, relatives and visitors gather in the Pueblo plaza around luminarias at dusk in anticipation of the annual procession. The scent of burning ocote wood permeates the dark winter air like incense. Gunshots are heard, as Pueblo men fire hunting rifles toward the stars as part of the tradition of welcoming La Nocha Buena (the good night) and La Navidad (Christmas — the birth of Christ).
For more information and visitor rules of etiquette, call (575) 758-1028 or go online to taospueblo.com.
The celebration begins around sunset after Mass at San Geronimo Church. Once the riflemen signal the birth of Christ, they part the crowd to allow passage for the procession featuring a statue of the Virgin Mary hoisted high upon a dais. Accompanying the procession are Pueblo drummers,
MATACHINES OR DEER DANCE Christmas Day is observed at Taos Pueblo with either the Deer Dance or the dance-drama Los Matachines. The latter ceremonial dance is born from cross-cultural references among American Indian and Hispanic New Mexican heritage. The consensus among most historians is that the name “Matachines” comes from the Arabic Moorish culture, which had much influence on the Spanish language. It means “masked dancer” or “masked person.” When first introduced to the Americas and to tribal peoples in the Southwest and Mexico, this pageant served as a kind of morality lesson. La Malinche represents good and purity with the dancer in this role being a girl in her pre-teen
years. El Toro (the bull) symbolizes the temptations of worldly living. Throughout the dance, the Matachin performers follow La Malinche and chief dancer El Monanca (the king) dressed in solid white. Through dance movements, Malinche convinces the 12 dancers to follow her. El Toro is kept at bay by the Ahuelos, who also serve as guardians of Pueblo traditions. It is a splendidly colorful display of pageantry — the dancers are festooned with multi-colored ribbons and carry a three-pronged wand called a palma. At the end, the 12 dancers culminate in intricate motions weaving 12 long, vibrant strands of yarn belts or ribbons. During the Deer Dance, dancers file into line, richly draped in deerskin, wearing antler headdresses and carrying a stick in each hand representative of a deer’s front legs. Whether this ceremony is invoking the deer spirit or celebrating the season is unknown. This dance is for the Pueblo Continues on 152
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silent night, holy night all is calm all is bright Continues from 150
people and not intended as holiday entertainment, per se. Nonetheless, this beautiful and moving dance can be witnessed by the public. Cameras, cell phones or any recording device are not allowed during these events. For more information and visitor rules of etiquette, call (575) 758-1028 or go online to taospueblo.com
COMMUNITY GATHERINGS 30TH ANNUAL YULETIDE CAROLING AND TREE LIGHTING Get into the holiday spirit when the one-of-a-kind 2016 Taos “Yuletide” season officially kicks off with the 30th annual lighting of the towering Town Christmas tree, the Electric Light Parade and local entertainment at Historic Taos Plaza. With more details to be announced, join Taos Mayor Dan Barrone at this community event along with Mr. and Mrs. Claus, who will be back to hand out Christmas stockings stuffed with goodies. Keep an eye out for the Grinch, as he’s an annual sleigh stowaway. The free event on Dec. 2 from 4-6 p.m. culminates in the countdown and the mayor’s lighting of the white fir tree that was a gift from Taos Pueblo to the citizens of Taos. Enjoy complimentary hot chocolate and cookies while strolling the Plaza shops who will remain open. Vehicles are not allowed on the Plaza during this event. Special parking arrangements will be provided for people 152
Photo by Megan Bowers Avina Lighting Ledoux, Dec. 3, is a community favorite.
CHRISTMAS EVE AND CHRISTMAS DAY MASS AROUND THE ENCHANTED CIRCLE TAOS: Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, 205 Don Fernando St., Dec. 24 Masses at 5:30 p.m. and midnight; Dec. 25 Masses at 9 a.m. and 11 a.m., (575) 758-9208. San Geronimo Chapel at Taos Pueblo, Dec. 24, 4 p.m., traditional vespers followed by Communion service. Ranchos de Taos: San Francisco de Asís Church, 60 St. Francis Plaza, (575) 758-2754, due to the last Las Posadas, Dec. 24 Mass begins at 11:30 p.m. ANGEL FIRE: Holy Angels Catholic Mission, 34 Westridge Rd., Dec. 24, 5:30 p.m., (575) 376-2553. ARROYO SECO: Holy Trinity Parish, 498 State Road 150, Dec. 24 at 8 p.m., (575) 776-2273. EAGLE NEST: St. Mel’s Catholic Church, 200 Willow Dr., Dec. 24 at 4 p.m., (575) 377-1937. Peñasco: San Antonio de Padua Church, 15071 State Road 75, Dec. 24 at 9 p.m., (575) 587-0399. For more local church listings check the Spiritual Directory in the weekly Taos News.
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requiring ADA access. (575) 758-3873, taosgov.com LIGHTING LEDOUX If Norman Rockwell were still alive, he would undoubtedly be inspired to paint a Taos “Americana” holiday scene and that scene would be the Lighting of Ledoux. This popular, charming, unpretentious local block party takes place Dec. 3 starting at 5 p.m. on historic Ledoux Street. The narrow thoroughfare glows with the magical light from farolitos and luminarias. The streets’ galleries, shops and museums are open, offering holiday food and drink. People gather around the fires and share their stories in the cool starlit night. Santa Claus will make a special visit to the Harwood Museum offering goodies for the kids at 5:30 p.m. While visitors are welcome and encouraged to attend, Lighting Ledoux is known for signaling to Taoseños that the holiday season in Taos has begun. Just as Lighting Ledoux lets us know that the holidays are here, being at the historic Ledoux District reminds you that you’re
in Taos. The Ledoux Street area — a crooked, narrow road tucked away just west of the Plaza — was originally built in a fortress style. It is lined with authentic adobe structures, most of which date back to the territorial era. Beautifully painted doors, window panes and entrance gates please the eye. This is old Taos, as pure as winter’s snow. (877) 5879007, taos.org BONFIRES ON BENT STREET The John Dunn Shops on Bent Street glow from the warming bonfires peppered along the pedestrian walkway on Dec. 10 all day with a reception from 4-7 p.m.. Shops offer snacks, music and events all day. A reception with farolitos, luminaries, food, music, Santa and more begins at 4 p.m. (877) 587-9007, taos.org
CHILD’S PLAY TWIRL HOLIDAY CRAFTING The Yuletide Caroling and Tree Lighting on Dec. 2 is a popular party for children, but not the only one. On Dec. 3, 10 and 17, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Taos’ own
Twirl — play and discovery space — will host holiday crafting and gift-making activities in the upstairs playroom. Twirl is located just off Taos Plaza at 225 Camino de la Placita. (575) 751-1402, twirltaos.org SANTA PAWS Historic Ledoux Street is the site for this year’s holiday pet party, Santa Paws, on Dec. 10 from noon to 4 p.m.. And where’s there’s dogs, there’s kids. Santa will find out what your pet wants for Christmas, and pose for a photo with your pet. Pets available for adoption will also be present. And there will be hot beverages and snacks. (877) 587-9007, taos.org SIPAPU ANNUAL CHRISTMAS EVE PARTY The annual Christmas Eve tradition from 5-8 p.m. at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort near Peñasco includes holiday music, fires, lights, a children’s art project and food and drink in the historic lodge. Free and open to the public. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com — Staff report
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TAOS SKI VALLEY â– UPGRADES
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CHANGES ARE A-HAPPENIN’ UPGRADES AT TAOS SKI VALLEY
“AND, STAY TUNED; THERE’S MUCH MORE IN THE WORKS FOR THE COMING SEASONS.”
BY ANDY DENNISON
—DAVE SMITH
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ew owners often make a splash right away, and the new hotel, The Blake at Taos Ski Valley, fills that bill quite adequately. But hedge fund manager Louis Bacon, who bought Taos Ski Valley in 2013, knew that there was much more to be done in order to bring the resort into the 21st century. True, he invested some $60 million in the hotel, but he also committed much of his $395 million capital investment in other areas beyond the spotlight of The Blake. Anyone who ventured up the Ski Valley Road during the past two summers knows that things are a-happenin’ at the old ski area. Traffic delays, heavy equipment traffic, lots of diggin’ and fillin’ and piles of materials signal that Bacon is serious about his new ski and snowboard resort. So when you find WiFi or clear phone reception on more parts of the mountain, or you notice that the lifts don’t stop as much as before, tip your helmet to all the work that has been done. IN THE GROUND All that trenching and paving on State Road 150 has brought modern communications to Taos Ski Valley. Fiber optic lines now run all the way to the backside of the Phoenix area, vastly improv-
ing reception for cell phone, internet and telecom systems. Previously, there were only eight land lines at the ski valley. “Now, there are 46. And the fiber optic has capacity for much, much more than that,” said Communications Manager Dave Smith. WiFi can now be found at more locations, and plans are for total coverage soon. As for phone service, plans include new cell towers at the base of Lift No. 4 and top of Lift No. 7A. “It’s important that we accommodate social media on the mountain,” said Smith. “People really want to take a selfie and send it out instantly to their friends. That gives Taos Ski Valley more exposure, which is always good.” Also brought up from town were higher-capacity electric lines. Buried underground, the new lines will replace the overhead power lines that wind up the access road. Both will provide reliable power to the village and the lifts, and reduce fire potential from downed power lines. And, natural gas has reached the base area. Hookups will begin shortly to individual buildings so that, eventually, the regular deliveries by propane trucks will become a thing of the past. ON THE MOUNTAIN Crews continue to upgrade snowmaking capabilities all over
the mountain. As they trenched the Rubezahl return trail for fiber optic, they also reworked the pressurized line that brings water to the snowmaking nozzles on the back side. Other line improvements have been made on both front and back, said Smith. Chainsaws howled most of this summer as crews put more space into some of the resort’s tightest glades. On the front side, both North American and Ernie’s and portions of Longhorn will be wider this season. “Not only does this work make skiing and riding in there more pleasurable, it also helps make a healthier forest and reduces fire danger,” said Smith. For several years, trail managers have been expanding the use of winched snowcats for grooming the steeper slopes. So, this coming year, expect fewer bumps as winch cats will spend more time on Kachina’s Main Street (with sufficient snow depth), and continue to smooth out Hunsiker Bowl, Moe’s and the bottom portion of West Basin. “All these projects are aimed at improving the experience that our guests have at Taos Ski Valley,” said Smith. “And, stay tuned; There’s much more in the works for the coming seasons.”
Over the summer, Taos Ski Valley crews improved snowmaking capabilities.
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Profile David Norden
Taos Ski Valley has a new CEO
“I see great potential for Taos”
A
resort industry veteran has been named the new CEO of Taos Ski Valley (TSV). David Norden took the reins from Gordon Briner last July. Briner transitioned to COO and oversees TSV’s revenue departments, including helping to plan expanded summer programming. TSV is a classic mountain resort embarking on a path to revamp itself in order to survive in the modern ski industry. It shouldn’t be surprising that the ski valley’s new ownership has brought in Norden — the man who ushered in a new era at Stowe, Vermont — to take the helm as CEO of TSV. Norden was hired by Stowe owner AIG in 2003 to lead the new development there — the bulk of it known as Spruce Peak. Alongside his day job with Spruce Peak and then with later projects, Norden also got involved with community causes while in Stowe. He served as chair of the Stowe Land Trust until it was announced he was coming to Taos. “He’s a real visionary,” said Caitrin Maloney, the trust’s executive director, in a Taos News story by J.R. Logan. “He’s passionate about land Courtesy photo David Norden, new CEO of Taos Ski Valley
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conservation and he’s been a mentor to me.” Like Taos, Maloney added that Stowe is protective of its agricultural heritage and open space. She said Norden was able to weigh the conservationist spirit with the demands of creating a functioning economy. “I look forward to the challenge of leading the resort into the future,” Norden expressed in a press release. “It is an incredibly exciting time to be here as we celebrate and hold tight to what makes Taos Ski Valley unique, while also introducing substantial improvements and an environmental ethic that will enhance the visitor experience. My family and I are very much looking forward to being part of the Taos community.” There’s also some overlap between Norden and TSV owner Louis Bacon. Bacon is a major benefactor of the Audubon Society, donating hundreds of thousands of dollars to the conservation organization through his charitable foundation. In addition, Bacon was awarded the prestigious Audubon Medal in 2012 “in recognition of his significant and diverse efforts to preserve and protect key natural ecosystems.” Bacon is often referred to as a “billionaire conservationist” for his efforts to protect landscape-scale
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swaths of open space. The conservationist mentality has been part of the mantra at TSV since Bacon bought it. The resort consistently emphasizes sustainable practices as an integral part of the redevelopment. Norden will oversee all existing TSV resort operations including The Blake, a new slope-side hotel, which is slated to open early 2017. “Taos Ski Valley is evolving into a multi-season resort destination, and as such the executive responsibilities are expanding,” said TSV board member Peter Talty. “David brings superb industry expertise to the ski valley, which will be critical as we prepare for the launch of The Blake Hotel this winter and expand our on-mountain opportunities.” Norden began his career in the ski industry working for the consulting firm SE Group. He was previously the vice president of Spruce Peak Realty of the AIG Global Real Estate Investment Corp. and a project manager at Hines Resorts.
Starting in the mid-2000s, Stowe’s owners poured hundreds of millions of dollars into an on- and offmountain makeover meant to make the resort more attractive to visitors lured by better amenities elsewhere. For the last nine years, Norden worked as the founder and president of Owls Head Partners, an international resort development management company. He provided planning and development services for numerous resort communities, including projects at TSV. “I am thrilled to join the famed Taos Ski Valley, a destination that is celebrated for its extraordinary ski terrain, distinctive personality and cultural mystique,” Norden stated. Being that Vermont and New Mexico are completely different terrains and come from different cultural heritages, Norden stressed to The Taos News that change at Taos doesn’t necessarily mean it will lose its character. “I see great potential for Taos, but I don’t see it be-
coming a mega-resort. I don’t see Taos becoming a glitzy resort,” Norden said. Instead, he thinks Taos can play off its strong suits — namely its reputation as a welcoming, laid-back resort with great terrain — by adding some modern comforts. “People talk about Taos like everybody is family,” Norden said. “We don’t want to lose that.” The most obvious enhancement is The Blake at Taos Ski Valley (see page ??). Other key improvements include: •Significantly better mobile phone coverage in the valley and on the mountain •Expanded glades in the Wild West area, and on Ernie’s Run and the North American run •Additional snowmaking for improved early season conditions •A variety of new ski school options at the Ernie Blake Snowsports School including telemark, steeps and bumps, racing specialty clinics and women-only — Staff report
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THE ENCHANTED CIRCLE
Arroyo Seco 160 angel fire 162 questa 164 eagle nest 166 sipapu 168 taos pueblo 170 red river 172
It’s no accident that New Mexico has long been known as The Land of Enchantment. It’s only fitting, then, that this designated scenic byway be called the Enchanted Circle. Explore the 83mile loop through mountains, valleys, mesa and national forest — all unique to Northern New Mexico — that connects Taos, Questa, Red River, Eagle Nest and Angel Fire. The Enchanted Circle is centered around Wheeler Peak, the highest point in the state. Culture and outdoor recreation are abundant around the Enchanted Circle, so hit the road and get ready to discover what makes this region so spectacular.
BLM New Mexico/flickr The Río Grande National Monument near Questa includes approximately 242,500 acres of public land — plenty of space for roaming elk.
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ARROYO SECO Sometimes the best gifts really do come in the smallest packages and around these parts, that would be Arroyo Seco (Dry Creek). This tiny community with wonderful eateries, unique shops and galleries is on the way to Taos Ski Valley on State Road 150 — you can’t miss it and you shouldn’t. The galleries, boutiques and other shops are a stone’s throw from each other. Nestled near the rounded peak of El Salto Mountain, beautiful pottery, photography, contemporary and folk art to women’s fashions, antiques and unique gifts are all there in “Seco.” Getting a bite to eat can be a tough choice when you’ve got ice cream legend Taos Cow, tamale and green chile heaven at Abe’s Cantina, deli delights at Sol Food and exquisite farm-to-table cuisine at Aceq to choose from.
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Photo by Katharine Egli /// Fried chicken and waffle plate at Aceq.
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ANGEL FIRE Nearly 50 years ago, Angel Fire Resort opened its lifts and trails to skiers for the first time. Now, after years of evolving, the 50th anniversary season is underway. Opening day is Dec. 9. Angel Fire Resort will mark its 50th anniversary Jan. 1722, 2017. Paying tribute to the resort’s legendary pedigree and world-class mountain, the weeklong celebration is not to be missed. On Jan. 17, the celebration begins with a cocktail welcome party and will feature selected pieces displayed showing the rich history over the last 50 years. Such a hallmark milestone provides an opportunity to reflect upon the storied opening of the resort in 1966. Angel Fire Resort — known for highlighting its stunning natural surroundings — has always perpetuated a distinct sense of environment and nature, both in design and service.
Wednesday (Jan. 18) features Taste of Angel Fire and Vintage Ski Day. Thursday’s (Jan. 19) festivities had yet to be determined, go to angelfireresort.com for updated information. A Reunion Dinner for past patrollers, employees and ski school employees will be held Friday (Jan, 20). The weeklong celebration will end on Saturday (Jan. 21) with an apres ski party, Garden Court party and a spectacular firework show plus live music to round out a fun-filled week. With more than 560 acres of terrain with rolling cruisers, glade runs, a trio of terrain parks and one of New Mexico’s top ski and snowboard schools, Angel Fire has beckoned to Alpine skiers, cross-country skiers and snowboarders of all levels. Tubing and sledding down the Polar Coaster Tubing Hill and the sledding hill at the Nordic Center are still popular pastimes, especially
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with the kids. Sleds and discs can be rented at the Nordic Center for $10 and $15. Sledding will be available FridaySunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and daily during peak periods (conditions permitting). To confirm hours of operation, call the Nordic Center at (575) 377-4488. The Nordic Center at the Country Club also boasts more than 15 km of groomed, classic and skate cross-country terrain. Snowshoeing is also permissible on these trails. Skiing, snowboarding and tubing aren’t the only ways to enjoy the outdoors — Roadrunner Tours in Angel Fire offers sleigh rides through this magical winter wonderland. Over the Christmas holiday (Dec. 26-29) check into First Tracks, which allows you to load onto the lift at 8 a.m. and hit the slopes before everyone else. Dress warm and be at the base of the Chile Express by 7:45 a.m. If
MOUNTAIN STATS
Season Dates: Dec. 9-March 19 Average Annual Snowfall: 210 in. Number of Runs: 79 (18 percent beginner, 46 percent intermediate, 36 percent advanced) Number of Lifts: 7 total (2 quad chairs, 3 double chairs, 2 surface tows) Base Elevation: 8,600 ft. Peak Elevation: 10,677 ft. Vertical Drop: 2,077 ft. Snowmaking: Yes Information: (800) 6337463, angelfireresort.com
the early morning ski wasn’t enough, on every Friday and Saturday evening you can ski at night. But if you’re looking for something completely different, Angel Fire is home to the World Championship Shovel Races in which hearty, adrenaline-seeking souls from ages 10 to adulthood reach speeds of up to 70 mph riding
a shovel — yes, an ordinary, unmodified shovel — down a slope. Shovel racing began as a simple contest in the 1970s when lift operators would ride their shovels down the mountain at the end of their shifts. This year’s race takes place Saturday, Feb. 4. Practice and Registration Day are set for Friday, Feb. 3. For more information, go to angelfireresort.com or call (800) 633-7463. Other Angel Fire events: Christmas Eve: Ski and snowboard with Santa and Mrs. Claus on the mountain. Remember to bring your camera,10 a.m.-3 p.m. College Week Jan. 1-7, 2017: With finals and family holiday celebrations in the past, spend a week hanging out with your friends in the Southern Rockies. Receive discounted lift tickets and lodging while enjoying live music, comedy, and games before returning to the books.
Courtesy Angel Fire Resort /// Tubing at Angel Fire Resort
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QUESTA Questa’s wildlife and wilderness may slumber in the winter, but there are still opportunities to experience in this beautiful Northern New Mexico scenery. You won’t find man-made ski areas here; it’s all about the weather and timing. Mother Nature rules! What the locals know is that access to the Río Grande del Norte National Monu-
ment never closes. If you wake up to snow, and the temperature is staying cool; throw your cross-county skis in the car and head for the Rinconada Loop Trail to enjoy six miles of flat skiing with stunning gorge views (and only a $3 fee to park). The trail can be entered at any of the campground parking lots and it’s easy to create smaller loops to match
Photo by Alberta Bouyer /// Cross-country skier on the Riconada Loop in the Río Grande del Norte National Monument near Questa.
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your time or stamina. For many, hiking down into the gorge here is a favorite outing. On a clear and cool autumn, winter or spring day, these steep 1-mile-down trails become a pleasure — with the reward of a sparkling river and hidden petroglyphs at the bottom. Questa is also the gateway to the many Forest Service
FOR MORE INFORMATION Check out the Village of Questa website at Questa-NM.com, or phone the Questa Ranger District of the Carson National Forest, Mon.Fri., at (575) 586-0520, open year round. And the BLM Wild Rivers Visitors Center at (575) 586-1150 (reduced hours off-season, but informative phone messages are posted).
trails along State Road 38 toward the town of Red River. Columbine Canyon is not only a favorite for dryweather hiking, but is a wonderful place to strap on your snowshoes and trek as near or far as your heart desires. The higher altitude here and thick surrounding pines hold the snowpack well. Call the Questa Ranger Station for the latest conditions.
WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, SOAK, SLED, FISH, FLOAT, SHOP AND SHRED IN TAOS
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EAGLE NEST The village of Eagle Nest hunkers down at the low point of the Moreno Valley in between Red River and Angel Fire, hard upon the north shore of Eagle Nest Lake and the drainages that feed it. The area is lush and thus, attracts an abundance of wildlife. The town of approximately 267 residents sits between New Mexico’s two highest peaks — Baldy Mountain (12,441 feet) and Wheeler Peek (13,161 feet). A good number of animals remain active throughout the winter such as birds of prey, like the red tail hawk and golden eagle, mule deer, coyotes and bighorn sheep. The star of Eagle Nest’s wintertime show, however, is the valley’s elk herd. Year round,
several thousand elk inhabit the mountain-skirt forests on both sides of the valley. Cows, calves and younger bulls hang together in one group, while the bulls form bachelor herds. Eagle Nest is known as the Moreno Valley headquarters for some of the best big and small game hunting in the country. Trophy elk, bear, lion and deer are taken in both public hunt areas and through professional guide services on private lands throughout the area. For the camper, backpacker, hiker or four wheeler, Eagle Nest is adjacent to the 1.6 million acre Carson National Forest with easy access to the Wheeler Peak Wilderness area.
Non-migrating smaller birds, like songbirds, proliferate all year round. Sparrows, juncos, chickadees and others all pick off insects and chow down on backyard feeders to stay alive through the winter. Blue grouse overwinter under the cover of the area’s conifer forests. Eagle Nest Lake is the newest New Mexico State Park and attracts ice fishermen looking to land trophy Rainbow trout, and Kokanee and Coho salmon. You can find all the equipment you’ll need at the Eagle Nest Marina. The lake is subject to closure if conditions are unsafe. Be sure to check that the lake is open before making the trip at the web site emnrd.state.mn.us or call
EAGLE NEST LAKE IS THE NEWEST NEW MEXICO STATE PARK AND ATTRACTS ICE FISHERMEN LOOKING TO LAND TROPHY RAINBOW TROUT, AND KOKANEE AND COHO SALMON. (575) 377-1594. If fishing isn’t your thing, but cold water is, then you’re in luck. Visitors with cold intentions can take the annual Polar Bear Plunge on New Year’s Day at Eagle Nest Lake State Park Visitor Center. Registration to participate in the chilling event begins at 9 a.m. Day-use fee of $5 per motor vehicle is required. Information also is
available on the Department of Game and Fish or New Mexico State Parks respective websites, wildlife.state. nm.us and nmparks.com. The small town breaths the Old West culture complete with a saloon with swinging doors. Main Street is less than a mile long, with shops carrying locally made crafts and fine arts, sculpture, sterling silver jewelry, Indian jewelry, antiques, pottery, candies, fudge, clothing, souvenirs, T-shirts and much more. Visitors can take a break from shopping in one of the down-home restaurants or grab a cappuccino before heading out for more. Keep your eyes open and your camera battery charged.
Photo by Eric Heinz /// The Polar Bear Plunge in Eagle Nest draws many people — who are usually sane — to jump in the ice-cold waters of Eagle Nest Lake.
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SIPAPU Just 20 miles southeast of Taos in the Carson National Forest, Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort is Northern New Mexico’s oldest ski area, and its legacy is built on an unparalleled commitment to being the most affordable, family-friendly resort in the Rockies. To that end, Sipapu became a joint operator of Pajarito Mountain Ski Area — 70 miles southwest of Taos in Los Alamos — in 2014 and promptly introduced the New Mexico Power Pass, the only season pass in the state to offer unlimited skiing and snowboarding at the two mountains, plus at Purgatory and Arizona Snowbowl with no blackout dates. Power Pass holders get three free days of skiing at nearly 20 partner mountains, including the chance to ski for free at Boulder County’s Eldora Mountain Resort. This winter Power Pass goes international — holders ski free at Masella Ski Resort near Barcelona, Spain. Also, the 2016/2017 season passes feature no price increase and a nointerest monthly payment plan. The unassuming, undeniably old-school ski area with some of the best “tree skiing” in the state, had some work done over the summer including a remodel of the Day Room in Sipapu’s historic lodge, and the creation of five more acres of skiable terrain. The Day Room is Sipapu’s popular meet-up
MOUNTAIN STATS
Season Dates: Nov. 12-April Average Annual Snowfall: 190 in. Number of Runs: 41 (20 percent beginner, 40 percent intermediate, 25 percent advanced, 15 percent expert) Number of Lifts: 6 (1 quad chair, 2 triple chairs, 2 magic carpets, 1 platter lift) Base Elevation: 8,200 ft. Peak Elevation: 9,255 ft. Vertical Drop: 1,055 ft. Snowmaking: Yes Information: (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
spot in the historic lodge. The original stone fireplace and locally harvested vigas remain intact, but the new layout will improve functionality in the multipurpose gathering place. As part of a multi-mountain $10 million capital campaign, Sipapu added five acres of skiable terrain, extending Howdy and Lower Bambi trails. Sipapu’s newest quad lift will service the new terrain. Plus, 3,100 feet of snowmaking pipeline was added on Howdy’s Extension trail, which will provide additional snowmaking on adjacent trails. Sipapu is known for being a great place for firsttime skiers and boarders of all ages to learn and to try something else new and different such as ski biking. Sipapu clenches the “first to open in New Mexico” title for the 14th consecutive season. Opening day is Nov. 12.
Photo by Gabe Weinstein/// Sipapu Ski Resort
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TAOS PUEBLO In 1992, Taos Pueblo was admitted to the Heritage Society as one of the most significant historical cultural landmarks in the world — alongside landmarks suck as the Taj Mahal and the Grand Canyon. The land base is 99,000 acres with an elevation of 7,200 feet at the village. Taos Pueblo’s rich cultural history makes for a memorable visit and is just a mile north of the town of Taos. As it has been inhabited for more than 1,000 years, Taos Pueblo is a special, sacred place. For most people, the main attractions at Taos Pueblo are the ceremonial
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holiday traditions, of which there are no shortage during the winter season. On Christmas Eve, the Pueblo observes the Procession of the Virgin Mary. During the event, the priest and acolytes are followed from San Geronimo Chapel by six men who carry a dais holding a statue of the Virgin Mary. During the procession, Native men fire rifles into the air to symbolically announce the birth of Jesus. Then, followed by musicians, dancers, and the general public, the procession makes its way around the courtyard and back into the church. The next day, on Christmas, Taos Pueblo
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ADMISSION
Adults: $16 per person Groups (8 or more Adults): $14 per person Students: $14 per person Children 10 and under: Free
RULES AND REGULATIONS
• Please abide by “Restricted Area” signs. • Do not enter doors/homes that are not clearly marked as curio shops. • Do not photograph tribal members without permission. • No photography within San
holds either the Deer or Matachines Dance. This is soon followed on New Year’s Day by the Turtle Dance.
Geronimo Church. • Do not enter the abode walls surrounding the cemetery and old church ruins. • Do not walk in the river. • Do not take photographs on feast days. • Any photography must be for personal use; all professional, commercial, and documentary photography, including artistic renderings, must have prior approval. Fees vary; inquire within tourism office. Visit taospueblo.com for more information.
The Pueblo asks that there be no photography during these religious ceremonies. Visitors can find gifts
made at Taos Pueblo in curio shops scattered around the Pueblo. The tribe takes extra care to be certain that all crafts that are sold are Native-made. All sales are tax-free and the money goes directly to the shopkeeper or artist. Taos Pueblo is generally open daily to the public, from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday and on Sunday from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., except when tribal rituals require its closure. The Pueblo will be closed for about 10 weeks from late winter to early spring. If you plan to visit within this period, call (575) 758-1028.
NOVEMBER 2016 23 Red River Ski area OPENS 24 Switch on the Holiday Lights, BBPK 24 Frozen Turkey Race, RRSA 26 Thanksgiving Rail Jam, RRSA DECEMBER 2016 RRSA Open Daily 11-16College Days, RRSA 24 Christmas Eve Torch Light Parade & Fireworks, RRSA 31 Old Fashion New Year’s Eve Party RRCH 32 New Year’s Eve Torchlight Parade & Fireworks, RRSA JANUARY 2017 2-13 College Days, RRSA 13-16 Winter Carnival & Red River Ski Joring, BBPK 26-28 Red River Song Writers Festival FEBUARY 2017 23-28 Mardi Gras in The Mountain 25 Mardi Gras Children’s Parade & Bead Toss, RRSA MARCH 2017 5-18 Beach Week, RRSA 8 Spring Break Torchlight Parade & Fire Works, RRSA 10 Children ‘s Glow Stick Parade & Fireworks, RRSA 15 Spring Break Torchlight Parade & Fireworks, RRSA 17 Children ‘s Glow Stick Parade & Fireworks, RRSA 19 End of Season Pond Skim, RRSA 19 CLOSING DAY, RRSA *RRSA-Red River Ski Area *BBPK-Brandenburg Park discovertaos.com /// Winter/Spring 2017
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RED RIVER
Silverado. Goldrush. Lucky Strike. You’ll find a gold mine of great runs in this old mining town turned “Ski Town of the Southwest.” At Red River Ski & Summer Area the attitude is laid back, the people are friendly, the atmosphere has an Old West vibe. With an average of 18 feet of snow each year and plenty of sunshine, conditions are great. With a mixed terrain, ski-through a replica of a mining camp and try out the terrain parks, all which keeps skiers and boarders of all abilities entertained and challenged. With a blanket of sparkling snow and blue skies overhead, Red River is a winter wonderland. Bundle up, grab your gear-or rent it in town and get ready for
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cool outdoor adventures. The ski area is conveniently located right in the heart of town, just a short walk from most lodges. You can reach a chairlift right from the town’s sidewalks. Red River is where the town and the ski area meld together fluidly, making it easy to take a couple hours away from the slopes for an in-town meal or some shopping. Or vice-versa. It’s also a great place for families, with activities for everyone. Red River Ski & Summer Area offers terrain for all abilities. Novice skiers love its ski-through Moon-Star Mining Camp, a family favorite. “Riders” — freeskiers and snowboarders — love Red River’s three terrain parks from the Pot O Gold Terrain Park on Gold
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Rush Hill, to the more challenging Hollywood Terrain Park beneath the Platinum Chair. Other winter fun on the mountain includes tubing, sledding, winter constellation hikes, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and off highway vehicles (OHV) adventures. After expending so much energy, check into the Snow Coach Dinner Tours in which guests can enjoy a ride in a heated coach with plenty of windows for sightseeing while a friendly guide shares history and facts about the ski area and the town. Guests are transported to an elevation of 10,350 feet and served a delicious dinner at the scenic Tip Restaurant. Reservations are required
MOUNTAIN STATS
Season Dates: Dec. 9-March 20 Average Annual Snowfall: 214 in. Number of Runs: 57, 1 glade (32 percent beginner, 38 percent intermediate, 30 percent expert) Number of Lifts: 7 total (2 double chairs, 3 triple chairs, 2 surface tows) Base Elevation: 8.750 ft. Peak Elevation: 10,350 ft. Vertical Drop: 1,600 ft. Snowmaking: 85 percent of terrain Information: (575) 7542223, redriverskiarea.com
and can be made by calling (575) 754-2223. Join Red River Ski Area for tubing, torchlight parades at the Face and fireworks every Saturday night and on special holidays. Prior to the torchlight parades, which commence
at approximately 7 p.m. until mid-March and 8 p.m. after then due to Daylight Savings Time, check out the Saturday Night Rail Jams where skiers and snowboarders show off the latest tricks and stunts. Skiers and snowboarders perform their master moves on rails, boxes, pipes, towers, wall rides, etc. Everyone is welcome to strut their stuff in this freestyle show. Winter Carnival on Jan. 13-15 is celebrated with skijoring and the “Race the Face” snowmobile hill climb. Opening day is Nov 24 with weekend skiing only. Daily skiing begins Dec. 9. Visit redriverskiarea.com for more information, including lodging and lift ticket deals.
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Another gem on the mountain NEW CHAIRLIFT UNVEILED AT RED RIVER SKI & SUMMER AREA
S
BY YVONNE PESQUERA
kiers and snowboarders want one thing: powder. But no one can control Mother Nature, so the next big item on a wish list is “fast and easy access” to the runs of their choosing. This is where modernday chairlifts come in, and this is where the Red River Ski & Summer Area makes dreams come true for snow enthusiasts. New for this 2016-2017 season, Red River has installed the Emerald Quad Chairlift to replace the Green Chairlift at Summit Camp. With this new installation, Marketing Director Karen Kelly says, “We can move twice the people in half the time.” The Red River Ski Area opened in December 1959, but just because it has deeprooted history doesn’t mean it’s stuck in the past. Red River’s last lift install was as Images courtesy Red River Ski Area recent as 2009, so the Ski Left: The new Emerald Quad Chairlift at Red River Ski Area was installed over the summer; Right: New alignment of the Emerald Quad Chairlift. Area knows how to keep things updated and moving. this magical place. For great Bowl and Silver Chairlift. into the Summit Camp PLAN YOUR VISIT The “Emerald” Quad is Walt Foley, deputy general Red River Ski & Summer Area dining and great views, with a mining camp theme. so named because, Kelly manager, states, “The Emvisit the Ski Tip Restau400 Pioneer Road Bringing in buildings and explains, “It’s another gem rant, which is positioned at erald Quad will virtually Red River, NM 87558 antiques from real mining on the mountain.” The eliminate lift lines at our the top and overlooks the (575) 754-2223 lift carries four passengers Summit Camp by doubling camps in the area, they beauty of Gold Hill. redriverskiarea.com recreated special places for per chair and runs across In a press announcement, the uphill capacity, and Moonstar to Mining Camp. to the more advanced terRed River Ski & Summer traveling at nearly twice the families to connect and It accesses all green terrain make memories. The EmArea states that the Emerald speed of the current lift.” rain served by the Silver and because it dismounts Quad loads on Green Previous owners Drew erald Quad increases access Chairlift. Summit Camp farther uphill from the old Acres and rises above that Judycki and Wally Dobbs, to this area known as Moon has beautiful gladed areas Green lift, it is closer to to the west with views of both New Mexico Ski Hall Star Mining Camp. “We with family-friendly slopes West Bowl for black/blue trails wandering among the of Fame inductees, loved welcome your family to join located at an elevation runs access. aspens. The realignment, this area of the mountain of 10,350 feet. Two lifts The Emerald Quad along with the Emerald and had a vision to incorpo- ours on the mountain that I starting at the base of the provides better access to rate the history of Red River have called home my entire Quad Chairlift, will carry mountain in the heart of the green runs of Summit skiers and riders to the ridge (affectionally known as “Ski life,” says Linton Judycki, Camp and acts as a gateway Red River, bring guests to and gives access to the West Town of the Southwest”) son of Drew Judycki.
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STEAKHOUSE
A Red River tradition established in 1967 A REAL Steakhouse Hostess Hotline 575-754-2922
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Interview by Scott Gerdes///Photo by Megan Bowers Avina
FACES OF TAOS
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NAME Hannah Westly VOCATION Barista LOCATION World Cup Café AGE 24
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ROOTS While a student studying English literature at Lewis & Clark College in Portland, Oregon, in 2014, Hannah took the proverbial summer road trip with her roommate “just for fun.” That roommate is from Taos and that’s were they headed. Born and raised in Philomath, Oregon, she already had it in her mind that wanted needed to leave the state. After being in Taos for a week she figured she now had two very different
choices — Taos or New York City. • On my last night here I was at the Alley Cantina drinking margaritas. I flipped a coin to help me decide between here and New York (Taos was heads and NYC was tails). It came up Taos five times in a row. • I’m happy here. No regrets. Taos is a really good place to be yourself. And you can spend a lot of time alone and it’s cheap enough
to live alone. For a small town, Taos has an art scene that can’t be beat. And the layers of culture here are really special. • Being that World Cup is located on the hub intersection of Paseo del Pueblo Norte and Kit Carson Road, Hannah and her co-workers make a lot of specialty coffee. She enjoys the interaction with people and likes that they get “a cross-section” of customers from locals to visitors.
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WINTER/SPRING 2017
CALENDAR OF EVENTS 186
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ONGOING NOV. 25-DEC. 24
11 a.m.-5 p.m. TAOSFOLK Taos’ famous POP-UP store at Stables Gallery offers handmade gifts by local artisans. taosfolk.com
THROUGH DEC. 31
YEAR OF TAOS VISIONARIES The exhibit “Mabel Dodge Luhan and Company: American Moderns and the West” has ignited a dialogue within the Taos art community about the fact that Taos has long attracted — or created — people who are agents of change, “visionaries.” Other Taos museums and many art galleries have used this concept as the core of their exhibition and programming schedule for 2016. (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum.org
THROUGH JAN. 8, 2017
LENNY FOSTER’S ENCHANTED LAND: A TAOS 20-YEAR RETROSPECTIVE A special benefit exhibition of the photography of Lenny Foster at the Taos Museum at Fechin House. (575) 758-2690, taosartmuseum.org
THROUGH JAN. 31, 2017
“CROSSING PATHS: BEADWORK FROM THE MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM AND E. IRVING COUSE COLLECTIONS” This exhibition at the Millicent Rogers Museum focuses on the history of beadwork in the region — an art form not typically associated with the Southwest. “Crossing Paths” will be complemented by multiple events directly related to the artworks on display. (575) 758-2462, millicentrogers.org
DEC. 2
30TH ANNUAL YULETIDE CAROLING AND TREE LIGHTING 4-6 p.m. The 2016 Taos Holiday Season officially kicks off with the annual lighting of the Town Christmas tree and the Electric Light Parade at Historic Taos Plaza. Join Santa Claus, the Grinch, Taos Mayor Dan Barrone and the community. (877) 587-9007, taos.org
NOV. 18
7 p.m. JAZZ: BOB DOROUGH QUARTET WITH AL SCHACKMAN The Jazz Bebop Society and the Harwood Museum of Art present bebop and cool jazz pianist, vocalist and songwriter Bob Dorough at the Harwood Museum’s Arthur Bell Auditorium. Joining Dorough is guitarist and longtime music director for Nina Simone, Al Schackman. Tickets are $25 for the general public. (575) 758-9826, harwoodmuseum.org
DEC. 3
19TH ANNUAL HOLIDAY FIESTA 11 a.m.-3 p.m. A free community event featuring live performances by local music and dance groups at Millicent Rogers Museum. (575) 758-2462, millicentrogers.org
DEC. 3
HOLIDAY CRAFTS AND ACTIVITIES 11 a.m.-1 p.m. Twirl will host holiday crafting and gift-making activities in the upstairs playroom. Twirl is located just off Taos Plaza at 225 Camino de la Placita. (575) 751-1402, twirltaos.org
NOV. 19 AND 20
TAOS COMMUNITY CHORUS WINTER CONCERTS Now in its 38th year, TCC will perform the “Solemn Mass in G” (more commonly known as the “St. Cecilia Mass”) of Charles Gounod. For updated times and venues, please go online to taoschorus.org.
DEC. 3
LIGHTING LEDOUX 5 p.m. Lighting Ledoux kicks off Taos’ Christmas festivities on historic Ledoux Street. The narrow thoroughfare glows with the light from farolitos, luminarias and bonfires. Galleries, shops and museums are open, offering holiday food and drink. People gather around the fires and share their stories in the cool starlit night. (877) 587-9007, taos.org
NOV. 23
9 a.m.-4 p.m. OPENING DAY AT RED RIVER SKI & SUMMER AREA. (800) 331-7669, redriverskiarea.com, redriver.org
NOV. 24
RAIL JAM Every Saturday night, head to Red River for a rail jam, torchlight parade and fireworks. (800) 3317669, redriverskiarea.com, redriver.org
FEB. 10-MARCH 5
NOV. 24
14TH ANNUAL MINIATURES SHOW AND SALE This highly touted art show and annual Millicent Rogers Museum fundraiser features all media and works from Taos County artists. $20 per person, $15 for museum members. (575) 758-2462, millicentrogers.org
DECEMBER
NOVEMBER
OPENING DAY AT TAOS SKI VALLEY 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Celebrating TSV’s 60th Anniversary and start of the ski and ride season. Taos Ski Valley will open on a limited schedule, with the lifts open Thursday through Sunday, until Dec. 5. Lifts operate from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. TSV will open for daily operations Dec. 8. (800) 776-1111, skitaos.com
JAN.-MARCH
the big chair. Twirl is located just off Taos Plaza at 225 Camino de la Placita. (575) 751-1402, twirltaos.org
Frosty the Snowman Was a jolly happy soul
FROZEN TURKEY RACE Begins at noon A call out to children of all ages to speed down Red River Ski Area ‘s Baby Blue Hill on a frozen turkey. (800) 331-7669, redriverskiarea.com
NOV. 24
SWITCH ON THE HOLIDAYS
DEC. 3
Begins at 7 p.m. The annual kickoff to the holiday season in Red River begins with the tree lighting and caroling, a visit from Santa, hot cocoa and cider. Held at Brandenburg Park. (800) 331-7669, redriver.org
NOV. 25
TWIRL AGLOW PARTY 3-5 p.m.
In this seasonal Taos tradition, the Twirl courtyard will come alive with holiday sparkle and magical surprises. Children and parents will be able to make seasonal crafts, enjoy heartwarming drinks and cookies, have their face painted by happy elves, enjoy live music and share their wishes with Santa on
HISTORIC TAOS INN TREE LIGHTING About 6 p.m. Annual follow up to Lighting Ledoux, a towering pine in the center of the historic inn’s lobby is lit for the season. Live music and revelry. The Taos Inn is located at 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. (575) 7582233, taosinn.com.
DEC. 8
ANGEL FIRE RESORT PREVIEW DAY 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Member Skiing & Continues on 188
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Snowboarding Preview. All members ski and ‘board free with their current valid membership cards a day before anybody else. (844) 218-4107, angelfireresort.com
virtuoso pianist Gleb Ivanov will return for an all-Schubert program with music that sets the tone for the holiday season. Both performances start at 5:30 p.m. at the Harwood Museum of Art’s Arthur Bell Auditorium. taoschambermusicgroup.org
DEC. 9
DEC. 18
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ANGEL FIRE OPENING DAY 9 a.m.-4 p.m. First official day of the 2016-2017 Winter Season at Angel Fire Resort. (800) 6337463, angelfireresort.com
WORLD SNOWBOARD DAY 9 a.m.-4 p.m. At Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort, 20 miles southeast of Taos. Includes free demos and free lessons with purchase of full-day lift ticket. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
DEC. 10
HOLIDAY CRAFTS AND ACTIVITIES 11 a.m.-1 p.m. Twirl will host holiday crafting and gift-making activities in the upstairs playroom. Twirl is located just off Taos Plaza at 225 Camino de la Placita. (575) 751-1402, twirltaos.org
DEC. 18-19
9 a.m.-3 p.m. NEVER SUMMER SNOWBOARD DEMO Head to Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort for a demo of the newest boards for 2016-2017. A new event, “The Running of the ThirtySixes” is a snowboard race in which participants run on size 136 boards for 20 feet. Winner gets a prize. No cost to participate. Driver’s license, credit card and valid lift ticket are required. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
DEC. 10
SANTA PAWS Noon-4 p.m. Historic Ledoux Street is the site for this year’s holiday pet party. Santa will find out what your pet wants for Christmas, and pose for a photo with your pet. Pets available for adoption will also be present. And there will be hot beverages and snacks. (877) 587-9007, taos.org
DEC. 24
DEC. 10
BONFIRES ON BENT STREET All day/Reception 4-7 p.m. The John Dunn Shops on Bent Street glow from the warming bonfires peppered along the pedestrian walkway. Shops offer snacks, music and events all day. A reception with farolitos, luminaries, food, music, Santa and more begins at 4 p.m. (877) 5879007, taos.org
DEC 10-11
ALUMBRA DE QUESTA The 2nd annual Christmas Craft Market in Questa featuring a wonderful variety of regional arts and crafts, and festive food. In the European tradition, the weekend event will stay open until just after dark to enjoy the unique vision of thousands of fairy lights and hundreds of farolitos lining the center of town. Contact Dina Coleman at (575) 5860694 or email dcoleman@ villageofquesta.org.
DEC. 13-14
TAOS ONSTAGE DINNER THEATER Dinner 6 p.m.; Curtain 7 p.m. Taos OnStage presents a
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Frosty the Snowman Is a fairytale, they say He was made of snow but the children know How he came to life one day radio play production of Ken Ludwig’s “The Game’s Afoot or Holmes for the Holidays,” directed by Charlotte Keefe
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at Taos Mesa Brewing in El Prado. Tickets are $30 per person for dinner and the play; $15 for the show only. Reservations required for the traditional holiday dinner. For tickets and reservations contact the theater group online at taosonstage.com or call (575) 224-4587. Taos Mesa Brewing can be contacted at (575) 7581900.
DEC. 16-17
PUBLIC DEMO DAYS AT TAOS SKI VALLEY 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Come demo the newest skis and snowboards on the market. Open to the public. Held at the base of Lift No. 1. (800) 776-1111, skitaos.com
DEC. 16-24
LAS POSADAS A time-honored tradition in Taos, Las Posadas is a religious celebration and re-enactment of Joseph and Mary’s journey to Bethlehem and their search for lodging. It is performed for nine consecutive nights. For information on where the walking performances
will take place, call the San Francisco de Asís Parish Office in Ranchos de Taos at (575) 758-2754.
DEC. 17
HOLIDAY CRAFTS AND ACTIVITIES 11 a.m.-1 p.m. Twirl will host holiday crafting and gift-making activities in the upstairs playroom. Twirl is located just off Taos Plaza at 225 Camino de la Placita. (575) 751-1402, twirltaos.org
DEC. 17
LOS PASTORES 7 p.m. Thirty-sixth annual stage performance of this timehonored Hispanic folk drama about the shepherds traveling to Bethlehem to honor the Christ Child. Free admission. Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, 205 Don Fernando St., Taos.
DEC. 17-18
TAOS CHAMBER MUSIC GROUP CONCERTS: “SCHUBERT FOR THE SEASON” 5:30 p.m. Now a Taos favorite,
CHRISTMAS EVE FIREWORKS AND TORCHLIGHT PARADES Red River This more than 45-year-old Christmas Eve tradition in Red River kicks off at Red River Ski & Summer Area with a Rail Jam (a “jib contest” using objects or obstacles to jump upon or over) at 5:30 p.m. following by the annual Christmas Eve Fireworks and Torchlight Parade at 7 p.m. (800) 3317669, redriverskiarea.com, redriver.org Angel Fire 6-7 p.m. Bundle up the family and head for the base of the ski mountain for Angel Fire Resort’s annual Christmas Eve Torchlight Parade & Fireworks. And keep an eye out — Santa and Mrs. Claus have been known to join in the festivities. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
DEC. 24
SIPAPU ANNUAL CHRISTMAS EVE PARTY 5-8 p.m. The annual tradition at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort includes holiday music, fires, lights, a children’s art project and food and drink in the historic lodge. Free and open to the public. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
There must have been some magic In that old silk they found For when they placed it on his head He began to dance around
DEC. 24
PROCESSION OF THE VIRGIN MARY AT TAOS PUEBLO Sunset A unique, beautiful and magical celebration of the procession of the Virgin Mary (Our Lady of Guadalupe) during this Christmas Eve tradition at Taos Pueblo. Open to the public. (575) 758-1028, taospueblo.com
DEC. 24
Country Ski Area invites guests to cross country ski or snowshoe along the farolito-lit oneway 3 kilometer loop. Complimentary chile con queso, green chile stew, posole, deserts and hot drinks. For times, call (575) 754-6112, or go online to enchantedforestxc.com.
DEC. 31
NEW YEAR’S EVE TORCHLIGHT PARADES AND FIREWORKS Taos Ski Valley The night will kick off at 5:45 p.m. with a laser light show. Then watch as skiers make their way down the mountain in the dark with flares as their only means of light. Don’t miss the spectacular fireworks display by Gemini Fireworks. After the fireworks, countdown to the New Year in the Martini Tree Bar. (800) 776-1111, skitaos.com Red River Celebrations for all ages beginning with the annual New Year’s Eve parade and fireworks at Red River Ski Area. Then take the kids to the Red River Community House for the Old Fashioned New Year’s Eve Party for pizza, music and games. A countdown ball drops at midnight Eastern time (10 p.m. in New Mexico) so even the youngest celebrants get to ring in the new year. (575) 754-2366, redriver.org
PROCESSION OF THE VIRGIN MARY AT PICURIS PUEBLO Sunset A Christmas Eve tradition at Picuris Pueblo features a torchlight procession of the Virgin Vespers followed Open to the public. (575) 587-2519, picurispueblo.org
Angel Fire 6-7 p.m. Dress warm and head for the base of the ski mountain for the annual torchlight parade and fireworks show. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
DEC. 24
JANUARY
SKI AND SNOWBOARD WITH THE CLAUSES 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Ski and snowboard with Santa and Mrs. Claus at Angel Fire Resort. Remember to bring your camera. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
DEC. 25
DEER OR MATACHINES DANCE 2 p.m. Witness this ancient Native American ceremonial dance honoring the depths of winter, as danced and drummed by the people of Taos Pueblo. No cameras, cell phones or video cameras allowed. Open to the public. (575) 758-1028, taospueblo.com
DEC. 25
CHRISTMAS LUMINARIA TOUR Enchanted Forest Cross
JAN. 1
TURTLE DANCE Annual New Year’s Day Turtle Dance (religious ceremony) marking the beginning of a new year at Taos Pueblo. Open to the public. No cameras or cell phones allowed. (575) 7581028, taospueblo.com
JAN. 1-7
COLLEGE WEEK AT ANGEL FIRE With finals and family holiday celebrations in the rear-view mirror, spend a week hanging out with your friends in the Southern Rockies: receive discounted lift tickets and lodging while enjoying live music, comedy and games. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
JAN. 6
DEER OR BUFFALO DANCE
Annual religious ceremony at Taos Pueblo. Open to the public. No cameras or cell phones allowed. (575) 7581028, taospueblo.com
JAN. 6
KINGS DAY CELEBRATION Annual event held in honor of new Tribal Officers at Picuris Pueblo, situated in the “Hidden Valley” of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains 24 miles southeast of Taos on State Road 75. (575) 5872519, picurispueblo.org
JAN. 7
21ST ANNUAL BREWMASTERS FESTIVAL 4:30 p.m.-7 p.m. Enjoy an afternoon at Taos Ski Valley sampling beer and tasting food from around the region. The festival will be held in Tenderfoot Katie’s and the Martini Tree Bar, located at the base of Lift #1. You will receive a Brewmasters Festival taster mug upon entry. The Brewmasters Festival is a 21 and over event, no infants or children. (800) 776-1111, skitaos.com
JAN. 7
NM(X) RAIL JAM 5-7 p.m. NM(X) Sports brings its Terrain Extravaganza party to Angel Fire Resort’s Terrain Parks. Plenty of prizes for men’s ski and snowboard, as well as women’s ski and snowboard. Sign-ups will be the day of the contest and it’s free to compete. Registration tent will be at the base area decks. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort. com; NM(X) Sports (505) 296-2738, nmxsports.org
JAN.13-15
WINTER CARNIVAL AT RED RIVER SKI AREA Noon-Midnight Skijoring, snowmobile Hill Climb, snowman building, kid-friendly games and events, live music, shopping strolls, torchlight parades, fireworks and “Race the Face.” (575) 754-2223, redriver.org
JAN. 14
TELLURIDE MOUNTAINFILM ON TOUR 5:30-8:30 p.m. Presented by Angel Fire Resort, this film tour brings inspiration and education about important issues to audiences around the world with documentary films that explore the themes connected to Telluride Mountainfilm’s mission of exploring cultures, preserving environments and promoting adventure. Films show at the Angel Fire Community Center. A pre-screening cocktail party at the Community Center is scheduled for 5:30 p.m. The show begins promptly at 6:30 p.m. Mountainfilm will introduce the films and engage the audience in discussion following the films. Tickets will be available online or at the door. (575) 3771544, angelfireresort.com, angelfirenm.gov
JAN. 14
TELEMARK FESTIVAL 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Free telemark clinics and personal instruction at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort. Stay for the Freeheel Fray, the skin-up, ski-down
race at 4:30 p.m. (800) 5872240, sipapunm.com
JAN. 14
SANTA FE BREWING HAPPY HOPS HUNT 9 a.m.-4 p.m. During this scavenger hunt, Santa Fe Brewing will stash SFB cans stuffed with prizes all over the mountain at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort. Watch the resort’s Facebook page (facebook. com/Sipapu) and Twitter (twitter.com/SipapuNM) feeds the day of the event for tips to finding hidden cans. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
JAN. 14
MOONLIGHT HIKE AND CAMPFIRE AT SIPAPU 6:30-8:30 p.m. A free guided tour at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort (20 miles southeast of Taos) starting at the base area to mid-mountain. (800) 5872240, sipapunm.com
JAN. 17-22
NOT FORGOTTEN OUTREACH WEEK 9 a.m.-4 p.m. With thanks to the men and women of the Armed Services, Taos Ski Valley presents the 4th annual Not Forgotten Outreach Week. Active duty military, veterans and any family member with a military ID are invited to come ski for a discounted rate. Free rentals and discounted group ski and snowboard lessons will also be available for all active duty military, veterans and immediate family members. (800) 776-1111, skitaos.com Continues on 190
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as those of composers he studied or studied with. Both performances begin at 5:30 p.m. at the Arthur Bell Auditorium at the Harwood Museum of Art. taoschambermusicgroup.org
Frosty the Snowman Was alive as he could be and the children say he could laugh and play Just the same as you and me
FEB. 4-5
SKIBIKE WEEKEND This weekend event at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort includes a rally, night ride, aprés with other ski bikers and mountain tours. Sponsored bu SkiBikeFun. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm. com
FEB. 5
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SUPER BOWL CELEBRATION 4-9 p.m. Festivities at Supapu Ski and Summer Resort include a vacation package giveaway, specials on lift ticket prices and the game on big screen TVs, plus happy hour specials from 4-6 p.m. in the Riverside Café. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
JAN. 17-22
FEB. 9-11
NATIONAL IFSA JUNIOR FREERIDE 8 a.m.-5 p.m. International Freeskiers and Snowboarders Association (IFSA) sanctioned competition hosted by TSV and JETA. (800) 776-1111, skitaos.com
ANGEL FIRE RESORT CELEBRATES 50 YEARS The weeklong celebration starts with a cocktail welcome party and features selected pieces displayed showing the rich history over the last 50 years. The anniversary-related events will end on Jan. 21 with a spectacular firework show and live music to round out a fun-filled week and celebration of the resort’s past, and looking towards the future. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
FEB. 9-13
JAN. 21
KING OF THE HILL TERRAIN PARK COMPETITION 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sipapu’s annual slopestyle competition at the newly opened Don Diego terrain park. Prizes in men’s and women’s divisions. Sponsored by NM(X) Sports. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm. com
JAN. 25
ST. PAUL’S FEAST DAY Annual religious ceremony held at Picuris Pueblo, situated in the “Hidden Valley” of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains 24 miles southeast of Taos on State Road 75. (575) 587-2519, picurispueblo.org
JAN. 27-29
BIG OL’ TEXAS WEEKEND The annual Big Ol’ Texas weekend promotes and celebrates the Texas way and the unique roots that we share. Nestled in the beautiful Northern New
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File photo/Courtesy Taos Ski Valley At Taos Ski Valley, and other area resorts, torchlight parades are planned to celebrate the season. Mexico mountains of Angel Fire, a fun-filled weekend of activities including: headline concerts, Texas Hold’em, food and whiskey samplings, and the world famous Big Texan Steak Challenge. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
JAN. 27-29
WHISKEY AND POWDER Whiskey and Powder is a music festival featuring up and coming Country/ RedDirt/Americana artists in the gorgeous Southern Rockies of Northern New Mexico’s AngelFire Resort! Live music from today’s and tomorrow’s stars will be playing at various locations within the Village of Angel Fire and the resort. (800) 633-7463,
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FEBRUARY LATE FEBRUARY
(date to be announced) JUST DESSERTS EAT & SKI ENCHANTED FOREST CROSS COUNTRY SKI AREA This popular event has a simple theme: Enchanted Forest puts homemade desserts out on a 5-kilometer course and skiers ski out to the different sites and indulge in delicious concoctions like the popular 18-Layer Chocolate Cinnamon Torte, Fudge, Wild Blueberry Pie, Triple Chocolate Kahlua Espresso Cake, gluten-free delights and much more. (575) 754-6112, enchantedforestxc.com
FEB. 3-4
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP SHOVEL RACES A fun-filled weekend of highspeed shovel racing at Angel Fire Resort. The resort’s annual shovel races even made Jettsetter’s list of 11 Craziest Winter Adventures. If you don’t want to jump on a shovel and race down the mountain, this is still a must-attend event. Feb. 3 is practice and registration. Feb. 4 is late registration and race day. (800) 6337463, angelfireresort.com
FEB. 3-4
TAOS CHAMBER MUSIC GROUP CONCERTS: REFLECTIONS 5:30 p.m. TCMG celebrates Philip Glass’ 80th birthday (Jan. 31) with his works as well
MILITARY WINTERFEST The 2nd Annual Military Winterfest at Angel Fire Resort showcases four days of snow-filled fun, live entertainment, savory food and exclusive military discounts. Hosted and organized by the National Veterans Wellness & Healing Center Angel Fire, this is a winter celebration of our military serving now and in the past. Activities: Skiing, snowboarding, sleigh rides, tubing, snowshoeing, family and non-skier activities. Vetto-Vet ski and snowboard lessons with Adaptive Ski Programs for vets with disabilities. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
FEB. 11
LOVE ON THE LIFT 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Find true love this Valentine’s at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
FEB. 11
MOONLIGHT HIKE AND CAMPFIRE AT SIPAPU 6:30-8:30 p.m. A free guided tour at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort (20 miles southeast of Taos) starting at the base area to
on March 11 and noon-4 p.m. on March 12. (575) 758-2462, millicentrogers.org
mid-mountain. (800) 5872240, sipapunm.com
FEB. 12
REGIONAL IFSA JUNIOR FREERIDE 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Taos Ski Valley and JETA co-host an International Freeskiers and Snowboarders Association (IFSA) sanctioned Regional Junior Freeride Competition. (800) 776-1111, skitaos.com
MARCH 11
14TH ANNUAL CARDBOARD DERBY 9 a.m.-noon Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort’s biggest event of the year. Build your own cardboard derby racer (cardboard, duct tape, string, twine and paint only) and run it down the mountain for a chance at thousands of dollars worth of prizes. Best prizes go to the most creative racers. All ages and vehicle sizes are welcome. $10 per vessel. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
FEB. 18
SANTA FE BREWING HAPPY HOPS HUNT 2 9 a.m.-4 p.m. During this scavenger hunt, Santa Fe Brewing will stash SFB cans stuffed with prizes all over the mountain at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort. Watch the resort’s Facebook page (facebook. com/Sipapu) and Twitter (twitter.com/SipapuNM) feeds the day of the event for tips to finding hidden cans. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
FEB. 18-20
FEBRUARY FUN FEST 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sipapu’s most popular and free family event. The President’s day weekend festivities include a giant snow castle, costume contest and parade on Saturday, treasure hunts, games, prizes and more. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm. com
FEB. 22-28
MARDI GRAS IN THE MOUNTAINS Noon-Midnight The week in Red River is filled with costume balls, bead tossing, singing and dancing, Cajun and Creole gourmet delights, parades, kids costume contest, cajun cook-off, burning of the Loup-garu, crawfish boils, downhill gator race and more. The 2017 Mardi Gras theme is “Nightmare on Main Street.” (575) 7542366, redriver.org
FEB. 24-28
ANGEL FIRE MARDI GRAS CELEBRATION Celebrate Mardi Gras at Angel Fire Resort with daily live music, colorful beads, great food and much more. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
FEB. 25
SHRED THE LOVE 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m. 5th annual K2 Bumps Challenge and 8th annual Paint for Peaks snowboard art auction at Taos Ski Valley. The K2 Bumps Challenge is a fun and
Courtesy Red River Miner Red River Mardi Gras revelers with “Swampy” the baby croc. challenging marathon down the infamous Al’s Run. After the Bumps Challenge, skiers, boarders, their supporters, visitors and other members of the community will join in the Martini Tree Bar for the awards ceremony and an unrivaled art exhibit. These fundraising events benefit Boarding for Breast Cancer and the Anita Salas Memorial Fund. (800) 7761111, skitaos.com
FEB. 25
4TH ANNUAL LLOYD BOLANDER MEMORIAL DAY 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sipapu Ski and Summer Resorts pays homage to its founder. A portion of all lift ticket proceeds go to the Bolander Fund, which benefits youth ski programs and needs. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
MARCH MARCH 2-4
9 a.m.-5 p.m. TAOS FREERIDE CHAMPIONSHIPS For the second year, Taos Ski Valley will host a 2 Star Competition for a spot in the 4 Star Competition as a 4 Star Freeride World Tour qualifying event. (800) 7761111, skitaos.com
MARCH 4
NM(X) RAIL JAM 5-7 p.m. NM(X) Sports brings another Terrain Extravaganza party to Angel Fire Resort’s Terrain Parks. Plenty of prizes for men’s ski and snowboard, as well as women’s ski and snowboard. Sign-ups will be the day of the contest and it’s free to compete. Registration tent will be at
the base area decks. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort. com; NM(X) Sports (505) 296-2738, nmxsports.org
MARCH 4-5
TAOS CHAMBER MUSIC GROUP CONCERTS: MIDDLE GROUND 5:30 p.m. Music from the middle register features Johannes Brahms’ Two Songs, Op. 91, Gestillte Sehnsucht and Geistliches Wiegenlied for mezzo-soprano, viola and piano, Leonard Bernstein’s songs from Candide, arranged for viola and piano, Charles Loeffler’s lush Quatre Poems for mezzosoprano, viola and piano, Belinda Reynold’s hauntingly beautiful Share for alto flute and piano, Missy Mazzoli’s Tooth & Nail for amplified viola and pre-recorded electronics, and Maurice Durufle’s Prélude, récitatif et variations for flute, viola and piano. Both performances begin at 5:30 p.m. at the Arthur Bell Auditorium at the Harwood Museum of Art. taoschambermusicgroup.org
MARCH 4-19
FIESTA DEL SOL SPRING BREAK CELEBRATION It’s Angel Fire Resort’s Family Fun In The Sun celebration with live music, themed days, cool contests, and great spring skiing and riding. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
MARCH 4-9
BEACH WEEKS Red River Ski & Summer Area turns up the heat with its annual Beach Weeks. Tank tops and hula skirts are spotted frequently zipping down the slopes during this annual event. Look for fun
MARCH 11 events in March through the end of the season that include torchlight parades and fireworks, live music, winter tubing, après-ski specials, beach parties, Kid’s Glow Stick Parade every Friday night, daring Pond Skimming contest and more. (575) 754-2223, redriver.org
MARCH 5
USASA SLOPESTYLE USASA Slopestyle Competition returns to Angel Fire Resort with the Southwest’s best and up-and-coming skiers and snowboarders competing in Liberation Terrain Park for slopestyle bragging rights and points towards earning a birth to Nationals. (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort. com
MARCH 5-6
HAWAIIAN DAYS AT SIPAPU 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Kick off Spring Break by wearing your favorite Hawaiian attire at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort. The annual event features a beach party theme throughout the mountain. Free leis available while supplies last. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
MARCH 10-12
MOONLIGHT HIKE AND CAMPFIRE AT SIPAPU 6:30-8:30 p.m. A free guided tour at Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort (20 miles southeast of Taos) starting at the base area to mid-mountain. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
MARCH 18 13TH ANNUAL SIPAPU POND SKIMMING CONTEST 1-3 p.m. Skiers and boarders try to stay dry as best they can while racing down the mountain and attempting to “skim” across a pond. Prizes awarded to the best finishers. Free. (800) 5872240, sipapunm.com
MARCH 19
CLOSING DAY AT ANGEL FIRE RESORT (800) 633-7463, angelfireresort.com
MARCH 20
CLOSING DAY AT RED RIVER SKI AREA (800) 331-7669, redriverskiarea.com, redriver.org
MARCH 20-24
TAOS PUEBLO ARTIST WINTER SHOWCASE The 5th annual event at Millicent Rogers Museum featuring unique and original works from Taos Pueblo artists available for purchase directly from the artists. Each artist will submit a work to be raffled on Sunday, March 12. The event times are 5:30-7 p.m. on March 10, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
YETI CLUB 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Kids ages 6 to 10 can spend Spring Break working on their skiing or boarding skills. Yet Club is a fun-filled day camp featuring downhill and snowboard instruction. Lunch included. (800) 587-2240, sipapunm.com
MARCH 30-APRIL 2
TAOS SHORTZ FILM FESTIVAL More than 150 short films from more than 33 countries. For more updated information, go online to taosshortz.com.
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2015 KCEC ACCOMPLISHMENTS April 15, 2015 – Awarded the prestigious 2015
Cornerstone Award by the Broadband Communities Magazine. April 24, 2015Received the Governor’s
Environmental Excellence Award in Energy Conservation by Governor Susanna Martinez May 8, 2015Awarded the prestigious 2015
Utilities Telecom & Technology APEX Award. September 14, 2015CEO, Mr. Luis A. Reyes was awarded one of the TOP
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20 CEO’s in New Mexico.
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116 Cruz Alta Rd. Taos, NM 87571 (575)758-4838
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