Celebrating great food and drink in Wales Winter 2018
BEEF IT UP
A one pot that hits the spot
NO STRESS CHRISTMAS
Cooking tips from top Welsh chefs
AWARD WINNING
Welsh Food and Drink
6 OF THE BEST WELSH GINS PLUS VEGGIE TRENDS, COSY PUBS, REVIEWS, TOP CHEFS, RESTAURANTS AND RECIPES GALORE
Welsh food and drink -
An industry to be proud of Wales’ food and drink industry is going from strength to strength, so there couldn’t be a better time for taste.blas magazine to launch. There are so many fascinating and inspiring stories from across the industry that deserve to be told and this magazine provides the perfect platform to do just that.
it’s to signpost relevant support services or receive feedback on industry issues. As Chair of the Food and Drink Wales Industry Board, I feel confident that the skills and workforce within the industry will expand rapidly as we enter a new era of growth and success towards growing the sector by 30% by 2020.
Wales is a great place to launch a food and drink business. We have a smorgasbord of incredible Welsh products that have stood the test of time and highlight the level of success that can be achieved from starting a business in Wales; from Halen Môn and Brecon Carreg to Penderyn and Tiny Rebel.
As a Board, we are producing a new joint action plan to support the next stage of growth in Wales. This is a close collaboration between industry and government to ensure that our future actions after 2020 will continue our success and reinforce our role as a leading country for high quality, added-value and exciting produce.
From having only one Michelin starred restaurant ten years ago, the Welsh restaurant scene has come on leaps and bounds too with now seven Welsh restaurants holding the prestigious accolade. Many others plan to do so too in the near future. Financial support, commercial property advice, industry mentors and specialist training are just some of the many levels of support available to business owners across Wales to grow their food and drink business. The Food and Drink Wales Industry Board is also creating a collaborative growth strategy and is keen to hear from industry representatives, whether
The industry is a key linchpin within the wider Welsh economy and significantly influences economic regeneration and supports the infrastructure of communities across Wales. Like the industry itself, I can’t wait to see how taste.blas magazine develops and evolves. Andy Richardson, Chair of the Food and Drink Wales Industry Board. @FoodDrinkWIB
taste.blas is brought to you by EDITORIAL
PRODUCTION
Editors: Lowri Cooke and Jeremy Head
Designer: James Meredith
Contributors: Manon Edwards, Jon Gower,
Alan Chaston
Myfanwy Alexander, Adam Rees,
Sub-editor: Paul Spencer
Lisa Markham, Bethan Davies,
Distributed by Pear Distribution
Meryl Cubley, Kerry Christiani, Dave Chapman. Recipes:
Lisa Ann Fearn (Gomer Press) Elliw Gwawr (Y Lolfa) Anand George
Photographer: Emyr Young (Pysgoty + Lowri Haf Cooke profile pic),
Marian Delyth (Jon Gower’s pic) Rowan Morgan
ADVERTISING Publisher: Paul Mulligan Tel: 029 2019 0224, sales@conroymedia.co.uk
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To receive taste.blas call: 029 2019 0224 taste.blas Magazine is published by Conroy Media Ltd, PO Box 607, Cardiff CF24 1ZR ©Conroy Media 2017. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers can not be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views expressed in taste.blas are not necessarily those of the editor or the publishers.
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Wrth Fwrdd Bwyd O Dad, yn deulu dedwydd – y deuwn  diolch, o newydd; Cans o’th law y daw bob dydd Ein lluniaeth a’n llawenydd. William David Williams This famous Welsh grace has travelled the world, recited from memory by people of all generations. In primary school in Cardiff we sang the poem before lunch, little realizing at the time that the unique rhyming style derives from an ancient Welsh bardic ‘tongue-craft’. It even reached the silver screen in 1949, as Richard Burton shared these words of thanks in his cinematic debut, in Emlyn Williams’ The Last Days of Dolwyn. He did so, like many, around the family kitchen table – at the heart of the Welsh hearth and home. My grandfather wrote the ‘englyn’ in a rush before Christmas for a local eisteddfod in Sarnau, near Bala. He was absent when the poem was announced as the winner of the ‘grace’ competition on New Years Eve 1941. As a newly-appointed headmaster, he was in the middle of moving house with his wife and three kids – including Nia, my mother - to Barmouth. At the time he had no idea how his words would resonate with ‘happy families’ all over Wales – and far beyond.
Lowri Haf Cooke
Editor
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The poem equates food with a collective joy, which is what we aim to do with taste.blas Magazine. We in Wales proudly offer world-class food and drink, and gastronomic destinations galore. But along with awardwinning livestock, and Michelin starred chefs, we’ve got busy home cooks with a wealth of food traditions, and memory-filled recipe books. My ambition for taste. blas is to celebrate all aspects of Welsh food culture, with words to excite and inspire. I am privileged to write about Welsh food and drink and come from a family of home cooks – both Williams and Cooke! - who take pleasure in putting the world to rights over a feast at the kitchen table. And what I’ve found on my travels, as I meet producers and chefs, as well as foodies of all kinds, is that it’s not just about the food on the plate, but the connecting stories to which we can all relate; the blood, sweat and tears it takes to create, and the ‘cariad’ that’s at the heart of all great meals. I therefore invite you to the table, to savour and enjoy. But first, a moment of grace.
TEA. SO NICE TO COME HOME TO.
Adwell Foods Ltd, Abertawe SA3 4YL p: 01792 363391 e: info@welshbrewtea.com
@welshbrewtea www.welshbrewtea.co.uk
Contents Features The Wonders of Welsh lamb We all know Welsh lamb is great – we find out why
Winning Streak It’s awards season in the food and drink world
Chart Topper Ynyshir’s Gareth Ward on the highs and occasional lows of life as a top chef
Prime Beef International rugby star, Elinor Snowsill loves healthy beef dishes
Winter Warmers Enjoy a roaring fire, a pint and some hearty fayre in Wales’s best cosy pubs
Gin Glorious Gin Six Welsh gins stirring it up
Veg on the Edge The latest veggie and vegan trends in Wales
A Wow! Christmas That’s low on stress – tips and recipes from Wales’s top chefs
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Regulars Quick, quick, sloe Jon Gower on the joys of making gin
Recipes Galore If you want to lose weight, look away now
A Day In The life Of Michelin starred Restaurant James Sommerin
Hone Your Technique Time to sharpen your knives and dust down your rolling pin
Eat, Drink and be Merry Let our food and drink reviews be your guide
Kitchen Life Savers Kitchen kit you can’t live without
Dining Out in Style Restaurants to die for
Festive Essentials Andy Richardson’s top picks for Christmas table
Hold the Front Page The latest news hot off the press
Goose or Turkey? Myfanwy Alexander wrestles with a difficult choice
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©Marian Delyth
Jon Gower
In Bernard MacLaverty’s latest novel Midwinter Break the central character Gerry finds himself paralysed by the choice of gins in a bar in Amsterdam.
I know how he feels. Walking into one of the gin joints that have sprouted on the Welsh high street such as Juniper Place in Swansea or Gin and Juice in Cardiff is to become a child in a sweet shop, albeit a bit of an alcoholic one. Like one of the kids in Fagin’s gang in Oliver Twist who were sadly only too partial to a gin snifter or four. Top of my list of OTT gin palaces of the world is Whitechapel in San Francisco which boasts the biggest selection of gins in North America. Crazily atmospheric, it’s been designed to look like a cross between a derelict version of the London tube station and the inside of a gin still, so that there are pipes bubbling greenish liquids coming through broken tiles on the walls. The cocktail menu here includes a dark and fearful paean to the demons of drink, by Thomas Hood, written in the gin heyday of 1847: Gin! Gin! A drop of Gin! What magnified monsters circle therein! Ragged, and stained with filth and mud, The cocktail list at Whitechapel is a lavish affair. One will suffice. The “Hungry Monk of East Sussex” is made with Spirit Works Private Barrel Gin, bourbon, Giffard banana liqueur, Oloroso sherry, salted bruleé and cinnamon bitters. Other uncommon ingredients on the list include cold brew coffee, black cherry coke reduction, pink pepper bitters and Serrano chillies. The same abundance of flavours is evident this side of the pond, with gins that are juniper forward, rhubarb inflected, some made with marmalade, mulberry and even ones made with Cape gooseberries or Kalahari truffles. Gin has come a long way since it was considered mother’s ruin, laying waste to generations in the rookeries of Dickensian London. It is now so on-trend you might be forgiven for asking what’s coming next. And of course Welsh gin makers are adding their own flavours to the array on offer from the rhubarb gins of
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Anglesey through to the seaweed ones of west Wales to south Wales’ distillers who engage a range of flavours from violets to blue ginger. In light of such choice anxiety it’s possible to take a road less travelled now and plump for making your own sloe gin, from the fruit of the blackthorn tree. I have a favourite spot for picking sloes, near Penarth – not far from the place where Marconi sent the first wireless message back in 1897. While it’s traditional to wait until after the first frost I cycled there to pick sloes on one of those days of intense October sun when the whole world seems silvery. The berries glinted and gleamed and I wove my hands through the sharp thorns to reap the black harvest. Sloes, known in Welsh as eirin duon bach (small black berries), eirin tagu (choking berries) due to their innate bitterness or simply eirin perthi (hedge berries), have long been collected and used in Wales, and not just in gin. Sloes, boiled with sugar and water, were used medicinally to treat “laxity of the bowels.” The syrup would be made in the autumn and used in the winter, when hot water would be poured over it before being given to the patient. My grandmother, Bess, used to make sloe gin and I’d love to tell you I use her recipe but I’m afraid my route to sloe gin success is a bit more generic. Take a litre of gin, from any discount supermarket and about 450g of washed sloes. Put these in the freezer overnight and hey presto, you have your own version of a first frost, splitting the skins so that the juice flows freely. Put these in in a sterilized jar or any empty gin bottle lying around behind the sofa, sprinkle with 225g of caster sugar, seal tightly, shake well and then shake again every other day for a week. After the first week you need only do this once a week for about 2 months. It’s therapeutic in itself mind. Then, as they say, drink responsibly. Else those “creatures, scarce human” that Thomas Hood warned about will certainly come a calling. Chin chin.
DELICIOUSLY DRY, WELSH BOTANICAL SODA
Joint favourite
Welsh Lamb has made it onto the top table. In the past decade or so, it has crashed the fine dining rooms of the world, making a new, branded name for itself with global gourmets from Canada to Singapore and the United Arab Emirates. taste.blas reveals more about what makes Welsh Lamb a true jewel in the Welsh crown. More than a third of all premium lamb produced in Wales is exported - a £133m business - and every day its influence strengthens with the chattering connoisseurs of elite dinner parties in emerging economies. In Wales, of course, we’ve appreciated our lamb’s unique flavour for centuries - but even here, the lamb of our fathers has now metamorphosed from the caterpillar years of scullery staples like cawl and chops to the butterfly joints, the naughty noisettes and the minxy medallions that sit comfortably on the plates of chefs and cookery programme cognoscenti alike. So why are discerning diners seeking out our saddles and cultivating a taste for our cutlets?
The Brand Richard and Helen Roderick
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Welsh Lamb has some pretty damn good branding. It is nearly 15 years since Hybu Cig Cymru (Meat Promotion Wales) pulled off the coup of earning
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Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status from the European Union’s posh product club. (PGI status means it does what it says on the marble slab - that it comes from a farm in Wales.) It now sits alongside mighty indigenous brands like Champagne and Parma Ham.
The Hill Farmer: “We give back; we don’t clock in.” Every day across Wales, holidaymakers delight in “hero picture” landscapes and how the ravages of time have miraculously produced such precious yet random resources. Well, in truth, they haven’t. Each view is often more due to farming nurture than good old nature and it’s largely family-made, over generations of arduous, back-breaking, agricultural activity.
“There are thousands of kilometres of hedgerows in Wales. We’ve planted a lot in the last 15 years. You won’t see a similar landscape anywhere else in the world,” says Richard Roderick, of Newton Farm, Talybont-on-Usk, in the heart of the Brecon Beacons. “But we’re at a crossroads. Unless our family farms remain viable businesses, these traditional, centuries old skills - hedge laying skills, dry stone walling etc will disappear very quickly.” Richard, is a former Farmer’s Weekly Sheep Farmer of the Year, regularly hosting college and industry trips, including groups of foreign food journalists. Newton Farm’s 650 acres rise from 220 to 1200 feet, producing beef and lamb from 80 sucklers and 1,000 Suffolk and Texel cross Mule ewes. It is one of the 13,738 sheep holdings in Wales, collectively rearing more than 10 million sheep a year and employing 50,000 people. “We are the third generation to farm this land,” says Richard. “We’ve done a lot of work to maintain the land, protect our animals and provide a home for local wildlife (including the locally famous lesser horseshoe bat) - and, of course, for our visitors and tourists to enjoy.” He champions Welsh farming and its high welfare standards and reflects on a life of constant care and team effort. Richard’s wife, Helen, is a qualified accountant, and apart from looking after the books throughout the year, takes three weeks annual leave to help with lambing and calving on the farm. Sons Andrew, 22, Tudor, 21 and Matty, 18, all help when they can. “We give back, we don’t clock in. Welsh Lamb is a high quality product because of the attention to detail. Without viable family farms you just can’t maintain lamb production as we have it in Wales,” said Richard.
The grass expert: “It’s just like a good wine!” “Wales is one of the few countries in the world with the perfect climate for growing grass,” explains top Grassland Consultant Charlie Morgan. “And the type of plants that grow alongside, such as clovers, trefoils, plantains and other broad leaved herbs are all important for creating a well-balanced diet.” “Then nutrients; the young grass is sweet and appealing; high energy sugar content allows for greater absorption and utilisation of protein, leading to a healthier lamb and a cleaner environment. Much of this depends on the acidic and organic matter levels of the soils. In lamb terms, it’s just like a good wine!” “Then there are the important trace elements; it’s like their daily dose of multivitamins! The multi-species plants have varied root zones allowing for optimum uptake and on low intensity, Welsh family farms, the animals can revel in the choice and then be rotated to fresh pastures”, continues Charlie, who is also Secretary of the Federation of Welsh Grassland Societies.
Richard Roderick with visitng party of Swiss Chefs
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“Much of the taste of the meat and eating quality is affected by the soil type, climate and the vegetation adapted to the unique environment of Wales on the western extremes of Europe. This cannot be recreated or replicated, leading to specialised unique product”.
The Quality Butcher: “You can’t get more local than that!” Great local produce is attractive not only to the nearby community but to visitors far and wide. When traveling, many people make a regular diversion to Rob Rattray’s quality butchers shop in Chalybeate Street, Aberystwyth. “We get quite a few people who call in as they are travelling from north to south and vice versa,” says Rob. “‘Local’, ‘traceability’, ‘sourcing’ are all very big words in all food retail now. We’ve just had an order from local Michelin Star Restaurant with Rooms, Ynyshir Hall, for two of our lambs. They came from a farm one mile out of town - you can’t get more local than that!” effuses Rob, who also owns the 100-acre Ffos y Fuwch farm nearby that supplies the shop where his wife, Sheila and son and daughter Steffan and Elin share the work. His lambs take ten days to go from field to shop and that includes a week or more of hanging in his fridge. “This is a traditional family butchers. We offer quality cuts from lambs reared on the windy, west Wales hills where the grass is steeped in the fresh sea air.”
The Salt Marsh Farmer: “Customers enjoy the story of the food”. The North Gower coast is officially part of an “area of outstanding natural beauty” and nowhere reflects that award better than the tidal plain near Llanrhidian, an estuary environment where the sea sweeps over the peripheral grassland twice a day for ten days a month.
Rowland Pritchard with Elwen Roberts at a London promotion
These 4,000 acres host 1500 ewes, the flock that provides Gower Salt Marsh Lamb. ”It’s a very limited, exclusive market simply because we cannot put more animals on the space that we have to work with here,” explains owner Rowland Pritchard. “The grass the lambs eat includes samphire, sorrel and sea thrift and I can’t describe the special taste of the meat, you simply have to try it. It’s not just the sea and sea salt, although, of course, that plays a large part in developing the overall taste”. Gower Salt Marsh Lamb is a marketing co-op shared with neighbouring farmer Colin Williams. “We feel that it is part of a very special thing; a product of the land, sea and grassland that is created here.” “We sell to customers who are looking for quality,
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heritage and traceability, as well as great taste. They enjoy the story of the food that they are eating,” continues Rowland.
The Lowland farmer: “A 300-year heritage.” Few farmers can be as passionate or boast such a long line of farming heritage as award winners John and Fiona Davies, who farm at Ystradowen near Cowbridge, in the Vale of Glamorgan. They have set up and established their now well-known micro-brand GlamLamb. John’s family have farmed in south Wales since 1715; John’s father and mother moved to lowland Wern Fawr Farm in the early seventies with John farming in his own right since the eighties. “In the lowland climate, we can lamb in January/ February onwards,” says John. “On this land, the ewes milk like cows! We have endless milk which they guzzle and then they nibble our rich farm pastures - they grow naturally, laying down rich marbling fat which gives the lamb taste and tenderness.” Like many Welsh farmers, John is always looking to improve the genetics of his flock to cater for more efficient production and modern consumer tastes. “We run a closed flock; all ewes are born on our farm only. We buy in rams which we source from the best genetics in the country. This breeding policy gives us quality, healthy replacement ewe lambs for the flock and also provides full traceability of our lamb as all GlamLamb has been born and reared solely at Wern Fawr Farm.” John took a diploma in marketing and he and Fiona came up with their brand. “We work food fairs and successfully retail through our website glamlamb.co.uk. We’ve won six Great Taste Awards from the Guild of Fine Food.” So, that world-beating taste? Our experts tell us that there is nowhere else in the world that produces grass from age old soil that’s better, lusher, more nutritious - and certainly as well watered as Welsh grass. This verdant “vino” is a Grand Cru Classe among other vins de water table. And, of course, there’s the ever-honed, consumerfriendly genetics that continually enhances and improves each farm’s staple flocks of ewes. However, it’s the farmers that produce it that are a truly rare breed. Their husbandry, dedication, determination and resilience has brought a taste from a far off time into the modern age. If special protective measures are good enough for the lesser horseshoe bat, then perhaps there should be similar sanctity for another what could be endangered species - Wales’ lamb producing farmers.
Great cider is a timeless joy to us at Apple County. We make real cider and perry from 100% freshly pressed juice. Each cider is made from a single variety of bitter-sweet apples all grown in local orchards. We approach cider-making with all the skills and reverence of a traditional winemaker, allowing the distinctive flavours of each variety to develop through a slow, cool fermentation. Our ciders have won acclaim from chefs, critics, writers, and foodies alike. Valentine Warner, Oz Clarke and Pete Brown have all expressed their appreciation for Apple County Cider.
Our cider is made on Whitehouse Farm near Skenfrith in Monmouthshire. This lush county is nestled between the Brecon Beacons National Park and the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and is peppered with historic castles. From the farm, we enjoy stunning views across the Monnow valley where the river marks the Welsh border. If you are visiting, enjoy a tasting at our cellar door or soak up the view on our 3 mile orchard walk. If you are staying at one of the Welsh Rarebits Hotels then ask for an Apple County Cider at the bar.
www.applecountycider.co.uk
The perfect Christmas gift Angela Gray’s Festive Recipes
Festive, Summer, Autumn, Winter recipe books £9.99, any 3 books £25.
Order online www.graffeg.com or call 01554 824000 Festive Recipes Taste Blas Advert_Nov 2018_P1.indd 1
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Illustration: Manon Edwards
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The best of the best
Welsh food and drink excellence Lowri Cooke takes us on a whistlestop tour of Wales’s recent food and drink award winners... To begin at the beginning in ‘Môn Mam Cymru’ Wales’ mother-ship, Anglesey. ‘Llongyfarchiadau’, first of all, to Stephen Stevens for retaining his Michelin star at Sosban and the Old Butchers at Menai Bridge; an intimate dining experience with a surprise menu that’ll blow your mind. Along the Menai Strait nearby, Dylan’s piccalilli won two gold stars at Wales’ Great Taste Awards for 2018, pop in to the restaurant to buy a jar. In Newborough, it’s The Marram Grass’ Ellis Barrie 1. Dylan’s Piccalilli, Porthaethwy 2. Sosban and the Old Butchers, Porthaethwy 3.
Bryn Williams Porth Eirias, Colwyn Bay
4. Machine House, Rossett 5. Blue Slate Gin, Dinorwig 6. Siwgwr a Sbeis, Llanrwst 7. Purple Moose Brewery, Porthmadog 8. Welsh Lady Preserves, Y Ffôr 9. Plas Bodegroes, Efailnewydd, Pwllheli 10. Aber Falls Gin, Abergwyngregyn 11. Ynyshir, Eglwys Fach 12. Monty’s Dark Secret, Montgomery 13. The Nag’s Head, Garthmyl 14. The Walnut Tree, Llanddewi Ysgyryd 15. Bee Welsh, Builth Wells 16. Celtic Promise, Caws Teifi Cheese, Ffostrasol 17. Pembrokeshire Sichuan Sea Salt, Dinas 18. Gwenyn Gruffydd Honey, Dinefwr 19. Coaltown Coffee, Ammanford 20. Penylan Preserves Jalapeno Jam, Cardiff 21. Apple County Cider, Newcastle, Monmouth 22. Restaurant James Sommerin, Penarth 23. Gŵyr Gin, Port Eynon
creating a buzz; his mackerel dish secured a place in the final of BBC2’s Great British Menu, and was ‘a pure delight from beginning to end’. Across to the mainland to Dyffryn Nantlle, Pant Du medium-dry Cider secured 3 gold stars at the Great Taste awards, along with a star for their Enlli apple juice. Nefyn brewery Cwrw Llŷn was awarded two stars for Largo, the first Pilsner lager to be brewed on the Llŷn Peninsula, whilst at Y Ffôr, Welsh Lady Preserves took four Great Taste awards; a star was presented to each winner, including the ravishing Hot Horseradish Sauce. At Plas Bodegroes, near Pwllheli, they’re celebrating for the 27th year running, as Gunna Chown retained her coveted Michelin ‘Couvert’, for comfort, decor and service at the romantic restaurant with rooms. In Porthmadog, at the Purple Moose Brewery, raise a glass for two-star Great Taste award-winning Mwsh; a Kölsch-style lager, and a Cymric twist on a familiar taste of Cologne. There must be something in the water in Snowdonia as Dinorwig’s Blue Slate Gin won a Great Taste star, whilst Aber Falls of Abergwyngregyn secured five medals at this year’s San Francicso World Spirits competition, including Gold for the Welsh Dry Gin. Aber Falls also took home five awards at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in London in July, and won the title ‘Best New British Product’ in this year’s Great British Food Awards. North-East Wales hit the headlines in September, with the AA Restaurant of the Year for Wales 201819 award for Rossett’s Machine House restaurant in Clwyd, during a banner year for Chef Kevin Lynn. He also secured Outstanding Restaurant of the Year at the fourth annual Food Awards Wales 2018.
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Congratulations are also in order for Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias, where his stunning beach-side bistro restaurant in Colwyn Bay secured a coveted Bib Gourmand from the judges at Michelin. A salute as well to Bryan Webb at Tyddyn Llan for retaining his Michelin Star in Llandrillo. Nearby in Llandderfel, there’s a new Welsh addition to the Good Food Guide at Palé Hall under Chef Gareth Stevens and Michael Caines – now, also, the only AA 5 rosette hotel in Wales. Treat yourself to an activity break in the Berwyn Mountains and Llyn Tegid in Bala, combined with a feast of gastronomic delights. Other notable winners from Clwyd at the Wales’ Great Taste Awards include the three stars for Sarah Hughes’ crystallised edible florals, Eat My Flowers, in Corwen, as well as Forte’s Mascarpone and Caramelised Fig Ice Cream from Llandudno. Rhug Estate Organic Farm and Edwards of Conwy also won big for the quality of their meats – 6 and 4 single stars, respectively – whilst the Fab Fruit Co. from Corwen, and Welsh Speciality Foods of Rhuddlan were awarded a star each for their own unique twists on marmalade. And with the festive season upon us, the multi-award winning Luxury Christmas Pudding from Siwgwr a Sbeis, is worth a taste. Heading south to the Marches in Mid-Wales, it’s worth stopping in the charming market-town of Montgomery. Stephane Borie at The Checkers hit the national news, as he returned his Michelin star to take the restaurant in a new direction, and to secure a better balance of family life. Much respect to the ‘Frenchman and the Farmer’s Daughters’ for their huge contribution to this stunning part of Wales – keep your eyes peeled for the new breakfast and lunch menus launching soon.
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In Lampeter, Conti’s ice cream won three Wales Taste Awards, including one for their world-class Salted Caramel Ice Cream. In Ffostrasol near Llandysul, Caws Teifi secured three stars for Celtic Promise, their Caerphilly-style washed-rind cheese. It also won the highest accolade presented at the Great Taste awards; The Golden Fork Award for the Best Food Product From Wales. Pembrokeshire scored some notable wins, including two stars for the smoked salmon from The Smokeshed at Llys Meddyg in Trefdraeth (Newport), and the same for Pembrokeshire Sea Salt’s Sichuan Salt, in Dinas, two miles away. Across the Landsker in Kilgetty, Coedcanlas Maple Syrup secured three stars, as did the Blackcurrant Sorbet that’s bursting with flavour from Fire and Ice in Narberth. In Carmarthenshire, Ammanford’s Coaltown Coffee added three Wales Great Taste stars to their haul of recent gongs. In Llanddarog, Coles at The White Hart Inn won two stars for their Welsh Vodka, along with a star for their Welsh Brandy. Further south, Seidr y Mynydd in Kidwelly earned three stars for their naturally sweetened Keeved Cider. Welsh Castles abound in this part of the ‘Deheubarth’, and if you’re ever in the vicinity of Dryslwyn castle, Llandeilo, seek out the two-star award-winning Gwenyn Gruffudd Honey. Closer to Swansea, Gŵyr Gin brought a Wales Great Taste star back home to the Gower, at Port Eynon. Three major Michelin awards were retained in SouthEast Wales, in Glamorgan and Monmouthshire; James Sommerin, Penarth, The Walnut Tree in Llanddewi Skirrid, and at The Whitebrook, not far from Monmouth. Chris Harrod of The Whitebrook joined Ellis Barrie at the finale of Great British Menu on BBC2. He stole hearts with his stunning hazelnut cake, enhanced with fragrant and forraged ingredients from the Wye Valley.
At neighbouring Monty’s Brewery, grab a Wales Great Taste three star-winning pint of Dark Secret stout, full of chocolate and coffee flavours. And in the village of Garthmyl is The Nag’s Head Inn – AA Pub of the Year for Wales 2018-19. In Powys, Bee Welsh in Builth Wells was a hive of activity this year! At the Royal Welsh in July, local bee-keeper Shane Llewelyn Jones’s honey was awarded Best in Show, whilst Bee Welsh Heather Honey came top of its class at The National Honey Show in October.
Indeed, the producers of Monmouthshire were a hit at the Great Taste Awards, as (former mayor of Torfaen) Bill King’s Sticky Gingerbread, and Apple County Cider of Newcastle both won three stars apiece. Forest Coal Pit Farm in Abergavenny won two for the rare breed pork belly, as did Glam Lamb in Ystradowen near Cowbridge. A shout out too to The Untapped Brewing Company in Raglan; both the Triple S Stout and Ember winter warming ale were awarded a star, whilst the Whoosh ‘happy summer pale ale’ claimed two.
On the border between Powys and Ceredigion, the Shiso-infused Brecon Vodka cocktails should still be flowing at Ynyshir in Eglwys-fach, where Gareth Ward is The Good Food Guide’s UK Chef of the Year, and the restaurant itself is No. 1 in Wales and No. 5 in their top 100 UK Restaurants. Near Machynlleth, head for Corris Craft Centre for a taste of the Dyfi Distillery Original Gin, that secured a star at the Wales Great Taste awards. Then make a beeline south for a taste of the three-star winning Organic Zambian Forest Honey from Tropical Forest Products in Llandre, near Aberystwyth. In the bustling university town itself, Seren Kitchen’s Crunchy Pickled Onions, and Gin, Lemon and Cucumber Jelly were rewarded with a star apiece – turning ‘Aberystwyth’, into ‘Faberystwyth’!
In Cardiff, a new addition to The Good Food Guide is Pontcanna’s cool brunch-spot, Canna Deli, whilst neighbours Gwyn Myring and Tom Furlong of Milkwood, secured a brand new recommendation in the Michelin Guide. Down Grangetown way S4C comedy star Huw Bryant is deadly serious about BBQ Sauce. Both his Original Brybeque Sauce and Brytroot Brybeque Sauce scored a star from the Wales’ Great Taste Awards. And on the other side of the Taff, Claire Williams of Penylan Preserves won a star for her Jalapeno Jam.
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So grab your foodie goodie bag and hunker down with a feast of Welsh produce at Christmas and New Year to enjoy the fruits of labour of our artisans and producers!
Chef profile
Gareth Ward Ynyshir
Not far from Ynyshir in Cardigan Bay, you’ll hear the bells of Cantre’r Gwaelod; the sunken ancient kingdom – a Welsh Atlantis if you like – forms the foundation of one of our most enduring legends. During a massive storm in the area, the castle gatekeeper went on a bender, drowning the magical, mythical kingdom forever. Luckily for us a modern legend has reclaimed the crown for the area; the man, the myth, the meat-obsessed maestro Gareth Ward. During autumn, five years after he arrived on these shores, he pretty much swept the board. He not only retained his Michelin Star for his restaurant, Ynyshir in Eglwys-fach, near Machynlleth, he was also awarded the coveted Good Food Guide title of UK Chef of the Year. Add to that, the accolade of No. 1 restaurant in Wales - again for The Good Food Guide – and a jump from No. 12 restaurant to No. 5 in the whole of the UK. Now, one would think that Wales’ No 1. gastroking would be too busy for a mid-week chat, arming himself and his great estate with his own gate-keepers. Not a chance; this is a man on a mission to spread the word about Ynyshir. And after a warm ‘eh-oop’, the County Durham-born chef is keen to share the secrets of his ‘whole team’s success’. He is especially proud to achieve The Good Food Guide’s seal of approval as he considers it his personal ‘food bible’; ‘When I first started out, at the Seven Stars in Shindcliffe, the chef gave me a copy of it and told me to pick some places I liked – it’s the guide that all the best chefs really rate. And what we’re doing at Ynyshir, this incredible place in the middle of ‘nowhere’, is something really cool.’
If you’ve never been to Ynyshir before – and if so, what planet are you on? – then your taste-buds are in for a wild and crazy ride. The menu’s mission statement reads like a mindbending crossover episode of Great British Menu and Top Gear; ‘Ingredient Led, Flavour Driven, Fat Fuelled, Meat Obsessed’. Without spoiling the surprise, expect mind-blowing tastes; in short, this is definitely not a place for the faint of heart. The local Waguy beef is a case in point from Ifor Humphreys’ herd of cattle in Aber-miwl. As Gareth explains; ‘We dry age it ourselves for 234 days in our Himalayan Salt chamber, that really concentrates the flavour. Before we dry it, we render the suet fat from the kidneys, then paint it on to protect the meat. Then, as it dries, the meat content is reduced which means there’s more fat and less blood, leaving the beef with an amazing depth of flavour’. The stunning, remote location near the Cambrian coastline makes it a chilled-out gastro-destination. But don’t be fooled by the country-house facade; like many chefs, Gareth is a convert to tattoos, and his favourite decor touch is the Welsh ram’s head skull, hung proudly above the bar. Indeed, so much of what is experienced at Ynyshir are layers of the local Mid-Wales landscape, as the chef himself explains; ‘The tables were designed by a local carpenter near Machynlleth, and Sarah Jerath’s ceramics are made from stones from Nant Einion brook, and glazed with burnt ash from Ynyshir’s storm-felled trees.’ Ward arrived at Ynyshir in 2013 following his mother’s untimely death in a motorcycle
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accident. His subsequent rise to the top has been bittersweet, but he’s proud of what he and his team have so far achieved at Ynyshir. ‘This place definitely saved my life, there’s something very special here. We get on very well with each other, me and Ynyshir’. Away from the kitchen, he’s spent the past year seeing more of Wales; returning in July as guest-chef at the Cardigan Bay Seafood Festival in Aberaeron and making his first pilgrimage to The Hardwick during the Abergavenny Food Festival in September. ‘I love what Menna and Glyn [Heulyn, of the Harbourmaster] are doing at Aberaeron; you just want to do well for them. And I have a lot of time for Stephen Terry, he’s a very honest chef. I ate the lamb, that was incredible.’ And following his recent wins for Wales, he highlighted some local dining picks in The Daily Telegraph, including Pysgoty and Baravin in Aberystwyth. Prior to the Michelin announcement, social media was ablaze with rumours of a second star for Ynyshir – an accolade that would have been a first for Wales. And although ‘wounded’ not to be anointed, having been ‘sucked into the excitement’ Gareth Ward is most definitely a chef unbowed. ‘We cook for ourselves, we cook our own food, and if you don’t like it then that’s up to you. I ain’t changing what I’m doing for them [the judges] – they should be changing what they’re doing for me. You’ve got to believe in what you do, and in the end, it’s all about having fun’.
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BEEFING When you think of meat from Wales you think lamb, right? Well, you may want to think again as we’re ‘beefing it up’ in this issue. Many of us will already know that the prestigious PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status has been awarded to Welsh Lamb, but it’s also worth remembering that Welsh beef has also been given the highly sought after recognition. When shopping keep an eye out for beef with the PGI Welsh Beef logo on, as this guarantees that the livestock is born and reared in Wales; allowed to roam freely across wholesome natural habitats, and cared for by farmers with centuries of traditional farming practices under their belts - fully traceable, with no compromises on safety or quality, and available all year round. Not only does it have an unique taste, in part thanks to the love and passion put in by countless generations of farmers in rearing as well as cultivating the land they roam, but its high content of protein and nutrients is increasingly seen as an ideal food for those wanting to live out their own passions through a healthy and active lifestyle. To highlight the meat’s versatility, in this issue we interview the 48 times capped Welsh women’s rugby player Elinor Snowsill. She has partnered up with Hybu Cig Cymru – Meat Promotion Wales to launch a campaign aimed at showcasing how good quality lean Welsh beef is a proven source of dietary protein which helps support muscle growth and muscle mass. So if you’re considering your diet and trying to eat healthier and become fitter then, as Elinor explains, Welsh beef as part of a healthy and balanced diet can provide much of the nutrition you need.
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Titled ‘Fuel your passion’ the campaign involves a number of healthy and tasty recipes from Elinor, which can be found at eatwelshbeef.com, along with a £1000 giveaway competition for one lucky Welsh women’s rugby team able to carry out her signature trick-shot (take a look at the video online if you think you’re up to the challenge). As Elinor explains, “It’s easy to fall into the trap of eating chicken all the time, but it’s important to get your protein from a variety of sources. Welsh beef offers that variety, and it’s also a great way to support Welsh farmers and the local economy.”
IT UP… taste.blas talks to international women’s rugby player Elinor Snowsill about her love of Welsh beef, and how it helps power her hectic lifestyle. taste.blas: How’s the season going? Elinor Snowsill: The season is going well so far. I have chosen to focus on playing for my club Bristol Bears who play in the Tyrells Premier 15s. We have a very young team, (which is making me feel very old!) but we are gelling really well and putting in some great performances.
t.b: As a professional athlete, what are the things you have to consider in your diet? ES: As rugby players we do a lot of contact and gym work, so getting enough protein is really important to make sure I re-build and repair muscle. I also try to get a lot of fruit and veg in to make sure I’m getting enough vitamins and minerals in my diet.
t.b: How do you manage to balance working full time for School of Hard Knocks with playing elite level rugby. It must be quite demanding? ES: It is very demanding and you have to be very organised to manage everything. I wouldn’t have it any other way but it can be quite draining both physically and mentally. For example, on a Tuesday and Thursday I leave for work around 8.30am and then go straight to Bristol from work. We finish training around 9.30pm so I often don’t get home until 11pm. The hardest thing with that is making sure I’ve prepared enough food for the day!
t.b: How important is a rich source of protein such as Welsh beef? What does it enable the body to do? ES: As athletes we definitely tend to rely a lot on chicken as our main source of protein, but it’s so important to include variation in your diet; Welsh beef provides a welcome change from chicken. Protein is a really important part of your diet as it aids the repair and growth of muscle.
t.b: Have you always been fond of cooking? ES: No definitely not! My mother, Nerys Howell has worked in the food industry for years and she was very keen for me to get involved in cooking from a young age. But I was far too busy playing football and rugby outside to have time for cooking! It was only when I made the Wales U20 squad and we started being educated on nutrition that I took an interest in it. Once I left home for university, I realised it would be very difficult to perform at a high level if I didn’t learn how to cook! t.b: How has the need to be as fit and healthy as possible on the pitch influenced the type of food you cook and eat? ES: It has massively influenced the type of food I cook and eat. I very rarely eat takeaways, and I like to cook most of my meals from scratch. Obviously it can be hard to find the time to do it, but if I have a few hours spare I will batch cook meals that I can then freeze and save for later.
t.b: What are the other nutritional benefits of beef? ES: Welsh beef also includes high levels of minerals, in particular iron. Iron helps with the distribution of oxygen around the body, which is very important when you’re exercising a lot. Welsh beef also includes high amounts of vitamin B & E as well as omega 3. t.b: Between your needs as an athlete and those of working full time, you’ve clearly thought deeply about how to make sure the beef you use and recipes are healthy – what are your ground-rules (cuts to use, do you trim the fat, how do you cook it, where do you buy it etc)? ES: I try to buy it from my local butcher as much as possible, but if I can’t make it to the butcher I make sure that it’s Welsh beef when I buy it from the supermarket. I definitely choose leaner cuts of meat, one of the main types of beef I buy is lean steak mince because it’s so versatile. I use it to make either a Bolognese, my healthy version of a cottage pie, enchiladas and homemade beef burgers.
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t.b: Increasingly, consumers are much more concerned about where their meat comes from and how it’s farmed. Is this something that is important to you when choosing to buy PGI Welsh Beef? ES: The provenance of the food is so important to me. I keep an eye out for the PGI logo – this means that the produce is of the highest quality and guarantees that the animals were born and reared in Wales. The PGI Welsh Beef is completely traceable with inspections carried out during every step of the process. t.b: What is it about PGI Welsh Beef that makes it your go to (in terms of supporting Welsh farmers, how the beef is farmed, its quality, its nutritional makeup)? ES: It is so important to support our local farmers – not only are you investing back into your local economy, but you are also reducing food miles which is far better for the environment. Our Welsh beef has been mainly grass fed which means they have higher amounts of omega 3, beta carotene and vitamin E. t.b: And what are your favourite beef dishes? ES: I have quite a few favourite beef dishes including lean beef enchiladas and my version of a healthy cottage pie. However, with winter coming in it’s got to be the one-pot Welsh beef dish. I love tomato-based dishes, and the addition of chestnuts and sweet potato make this a comforting way of enjoying beef in the winter.
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Slow cooked one pot PGI Welsh Beef with chestnuts Serves 6
BEEFING IT UP… Method
Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4. Heat a casserole dish and add the oil - brown the Welsh beef in batches until sealed. Remove the Welsh beef and set aside. Add the onions, garlic and cook for 5-10 minutes until they begin to soften.
Ingredients
1kg shin of PGI Welsh Beef, fat removed and cut into thin slices 2 onions, thinly sliced 3 sticks celery, washed and chopped 4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced 2 x 400g tins plum tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato puree
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1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp fresh thyme finely chopped 2 bay leaves 150g cooked chestnuts 2 sweet potato, peeled and cubed 150g mushrooms, quartered Salt and pepper to taste Oil for frying
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Add the tinned tomatoes, tomato puree, thyme, bay leaves, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper and the sealed Welsh beef. Cover and place in the pre-heated oven for 30 minutes then reduce the heat to 150C/ Gas 2 and leave to cook for 1 ½ hours. Remove from the oven and add the chestnuts, mushrooms and sweet potato. Return to the oven and continue cooking for a further 1 ½ hours until all the vegetables are cooked and the meat is tender. Serve with steamed green vegetables.
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Call us for details of your nearest stockist
Tel: 01686 668933 www.montysbrewery.co.uk info@montysbrewery.co.uk www.taste-blas.co.uk
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Looking to eat in a top Thai restaurant tonight? No need, just stay at home!
Glan Yr Afon, Pennal
All the best dishes are available from us and are ready in minutes and you wont get better in a restaurant ! Our curry lovers giftset is now availble too Please see our website for details
Charming family run, family friendly restaurant & bar serving seasonal, locally sourced and freshly prepared food alongside premium lagers, bitters & Guest real ales, and 5 wines available by the glass, a large Gin list and much more… Open for functions to suit any occasion. Dogs welcome in the bar/cwtch & garden. Open 6 days a week for lunch & dinner 12-2/ 6-9pm (Closed Monday’s) Pennal, nr Machynlleth, Gwynedd SY20 9DW. 01654 791285 http://www.riversidehotel-pennal.co.uk info@riversidehotel-pennal.co.uk twitter @glynyrglan Fb:‘Glan Yr Afon / Riverside, Pennal’
All made in Wales www.thecoconutkitchen.co.uk
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Combine your visit with a stay in Llety Brynawel, our beautiful Georgian guest-house
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Welsh Winter Pubs…
The Felin Fach Griffin © Massey Griffin
with a gastro twist
Where to while away the hours over Autumn and Winter in Wales? Grab your scarf and keys and let’s go kick some leaves, as we aim to discover the perfect Welsh country pub for a bite to eat in front of a roaring log fire... The Felin Fach Griffin, Felinfach near Brecon
If you were searching for the definition of the perfect Welsh pub, you’d more than likely be directed 7 miles north-east of Brecon to The Griffin at Felinfach. A pattern of a pub, with fabulous grub, and butter-soft vintage leather sofas. Brothers Charles and Edmund Inkin and team welcome dogs at the bar, and even offer a ‘Not Lunch Not Supper’ menu all afternoon. The home-made sourdough is to die for, as is the Sunday
lunch, including meats from nearby Bwlch-based Welsh Venison Centre. Drinks-wise, the emphasis is very much on promoting ales from Mid-Wales, including beers from Brecon Brewing, Waen (Llanidloes) and Monty’s, (Montgomery), but they also bang the drum for sherry, and Welsh gins. It’s also a great pit-stop on the A470, for alcohol-free Stowford Press cider (just over the border from Herefordshire) and kid-friendly Aber Valley apple juice from Talybont on Usk. Just pray for a free sofa and a Sunday supplement! Felinfach, Brecon LD3 0UB; 01874 620111
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The White Horse
The White Horse, Hendrerwydd near Denbigh
The Plough and Harrow
If you really need to get lost, you’ll probably find yourself at some point at The White Horse in Hendrerwydd. It’s a dreamy gastro-pub that was the old village shop, located halfway between Denbigh and Ruthin. At the bar, take a pew on a customer-designed ‘Baa-Stool’, and savour a pint of the local ale from the Buzzard Brewery. Or follow chef-owner Jason Stock’s advice, and reach for the Barti Ddu rum and cigar for a hedonistic treat at the heart of the Vale of Clwyd. Dwygyfylchi-born and raised, the Clwydian chef originally raised eyebrows by banning cliched ‘pub grub’ like gammon, egg and pineapple from the menu. What you’ll get, however, instead, is ham hock with pickled pineapple and poached egg – and the local neighbours’ new favourite die-hard dish; the salt and pepper confit pork belly with an Asian dressing. A hidden gem well worth discovering; this is a favourite pub of local celeb newlyweds Bryn Williams and Sharleen Spiteri. Hendrerwydd, Denbigh LL16 4LL; 01824 790218
Ye Olde Bull’s Head, Beaumaris
The Nag’s Head Inn
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Prepared to be amazed with a taste of historical Wales on the Isle of Anglesey. Go for a bracing winter walk on Beaumaris pier and take in the grandeur of Snowdonia across the Menai straits. Then turn back towards the high street and make a beeline for The Bull, that dates from 1472. Face the fabulous gin bar, all jewel colours and stained glass, reminiscent of a Welsh apothecary. Take your pick from an array of botanicals, from sloe and juniper berries to coriander seeds; then mix with glee with Fever Tree, and enjoy the perfect G&T. One of the local Welsh gins is Snowdonia Forager’s Yellow Label with its floral notes of botanicals picked along the North Wales coast. Or try a ‘beer paddle’ of 3 guest ales and let your nearest and dearest know that, with
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regret, you may be some time. If you’re after some food, you’ve come to the right place; we’re talking more than a packet of crisps and pork scratchings. There is a contemporary brasserie in the coach-house at the back, and a three AA rosette awarded fine dining menu by Chef Andrew Tabberner up in The Loft. Castle St, Beaumaris LL58 8AP; 01248 810329
Tafarn y Plu, Llanystumdwy
For a pint of beer with a literary twist, make your way to Llanystumdwy in Eifionydd. A stone’s throw from Tŷ Newydd, National Writing Centre of Wales, you’ll find a pub at the heart of the village; a draw for artists and poets and local farmers and families too, thanks to a bar stocked full of interesting picks and a menu full of hearty home-cooked meals. Ex-journalist landlord Ian Parri is a font of local knowledge, and will happily direct you to the nearby ‘Lôn Goed’; a 5 mile tree-lined rural lane, immortalized by a poem by R. Williams Parry as a paean to the solace of the Dwyfor countryside and the leaf-strewn carpet underfoot. Retire later to the bar for a pint of Brenin Enlli, a local bitter from the Llŷn Peninsula-based craft brewery Cwrw Llŷn. Enjoy with lasagne, cawl or curry ‘half and half ’ - or ‘cyrri hanner a hanner’ to use the local parlance. Iechyd da! Llanystumdwy, Criccieth LL52 0SH; 01766 523276
Y Talbot, Tregaron
There aren’t many things in life to beat a perfectly cooked steak, a glass of red wine, and sparkling company. How about adding to that list a table for two in front of a fire, and a stay in a fabulous en-suite bedroom upstairs? I’m sure that many babies were created at Y Talbot in Tregaron, the wild west town near Pumlumon in the Cambrian Mountains. I cannot praise this Welsh pub highly enough, for its warmth and sense of place, and there’s an added ingredient to
Ye Olde Bull’s Head
Tafarn y Plu
Y Talbot The Sloop Inn be found at the kitchen ‘coal-face’. The master hard at work there is Cardiff-born Chef Dafydd Watkin. Before he arrived as the new ‘sheriff ’ in town, he was a protegee of Marco Pierre White, with 15 years of ‘White Heat’ under his belt at the maestro’s restaurants in London. Yes, you’ll find fish and chips on the popular bar menu, but it’s plaice in place of cod. The locals adore the locally-sourced pork-belly, and the banana cheesecake is what dreams are made of. The Square, Tregaron SY25 6JL; 01974 298208
The Plough and Harrow, Monk Nash
When you’re suddenly hit by the January blues, walk along Glamorgan’s Heritage Coast Path. Though you may not be up for the 14-mile journey from Penarth to Aberthaw, your interest may be piqued by the 14th Century pub, that’s very much a drink and dining draw. If you’ve yet to experience The Plough and Harrow at Monk Nash, then you’re in for a ravishing treat. A breath of fresh air will do you the world of good, as well as a pint and some seasonal fare. Although located slightly off the beaten track, it is consistently voted one of Wales’ best pubs. Amongst the ales on offer is the Wye Valley HPA, and Celt Brewery’s Native Storm. The hearty Welsh cawl is truly a treat, after a jaunt around nearby Blaen y Cwm Nature Reserve. Or – when in Rome, after all – go for the hearty Glamorgan Sausage. This native vegetarian delicacy is enriched with leeks and Y Fenni cheese. The mustard seeds from the ‘caws’ will warm the cockles of your heart, whilst the crackle of the fire may be a timely reminder that there are worst things than winter in Wales. Monknash, Cowbridge CF71 7QQ; 01656 890209
The Nag’s Head Inn, Garthmyl
Now there are pubs and there are ‘pubs’ – those places that rise above, and win prizes for exceptional
standards. The Nag’s Head Inn is a case in point, between Newtown and Welshpool. It’s one of a number of highly regarded Welsh contemporary hybrids of a restaurant with rooms and a historical village inn. The venue, in Garthmyl, next to Aberiw, won the AA award for Pub of the Year for Wales. And indeed, the bar, with its cosy armchairs and log burning stove, is the perfect winter spot with its well stocked array of handpicked ales. For a taste of something local, definitely go for Monty’s of Montgomery, or perhaps Three Tuns from just a mile over the Welsh border in Bishop’s Castle. Also represented are gins from all over Wales, including Dà Mhìle and Aber Falls. But to pay your respects to Montgomeryshire go for the Dyfi Distillery Original, from Corris. You’d be mad not to book a table at the restaurant – the rhubarb cheesecake is divine – but for a final treat, book a room upstairs. The timeless Laura Ashley designs are another local nod, to the world-famous icon from Carno. Garthmyl, Montgomery SY15 6RS; 01686 640600
The Sloop Inn, Porthgain
There are some Welsh pubs you’d prefer to keep to yourself, and then there are others that you just want to shout about until the whole world knows. A trip to the Pembrokeshire harbour village of Porthgain is like stepping back in time, and the Sloop is as cosy as a Pembrokeshire woollen-jumpered hug. There are signs of the old local industry to be found all over the 18th century inn, including vintage red Porthgain bricks. Take a walk from Abereiddi along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path before claiming a pint with your beerbattered cod and chips. Edging closer to spring, choose the Porthgain Crab Salad, including local new potatoes – or ‘tato newi’ from Croesgoch. And if you can’t bear to leave, The Sloop’s cottage sleeps four, and is only a 150 metre walk away. Porthgain, Haverfordwest SA62 5BN; 01348 831449
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The Sloop Inn
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A Hymn to Welsh Gin
Fancy a cheeky G&T? Kerry Christiani sure does and there are plenty of Welsh ones to choose from Wales has gone mad for craft gin recently, with gin-devoted bars and distilleries popping up at a rate of knots, many of them putting a unique and innovative spin on flavours or foraging for their own botanicals. From the moor-clad hills of the Brecons to the valleys of the south and the mountains of Snowdonia, we’ve toured the country to handpick six small-batch gins worth singing about, including one that has the royal seal of approval.
Mountain spirit Brecon Gin, Penderyn Distillery
As you’re cruising through the southern foothills of the Brecons, you might well feel a thirst coming on. If so, head over to Penderyn Distillery. They made their name in whisky, but their Brecon Gin is equally worthy of note, made with the purest water that flows down from the Brecon Beacons National Park. The premium Brecon Botanicals Gin is more complex and has a really unusual finish. Hour-long, behind-the-scenes distillery tours are also available. Tasting notes: Brecon Gin reveals a hit of fresh juniper, followed by coriander and hints of citrus fruits, cinnamon, nutmeg, liquorice and angelica. Brecon Botanicals Gin has a similar juniper aroma, laced with coriander and citrus, but you get all kinds of stuff as it opens up: cinnamon, cloves and even saffron. Mix it with: sip neat or with tonic and lemon or fresh mint and cucumber. Buy it from: Online (www.penderynstore.com). Brecon Gin, £22, Brecon Botanicals Gin, £28
G & Royal T Dà Mhìle, Llandysul
In the back of beyond in Ceredigion stands a farm distillery like no other: Dà Mhìle (pronounced ‘da-veelay’). Their background is in whisky, but they’ve also carved out a reputation for one-of-a-kind organic craft gins. Indeed, Prince Charles himself stopped by for a tasting earlier this year. Entry level is the Botanical Gin, a blend of 18 botanicals, some grown on the farm, including gorse, red clover and elder. Infused with handpicked seaweed, the Seaweed Gin goes brilliantly with all kinds of seafood. They also make interesting oak-aged and sloe gins. Tours run at 3pm from Wednesday to Friday; book ahead. Tasting notes: My favourite was the Botanical Gin. It has a subtle aroma of rose petals, spice and juniper, but there are also hints of dandelion and peppery cloves. Mix it with: Neat with ice or with lime and cucumber Buy it from: Online (www.damhile.co.uk/shop), £34.
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Cocktail crush Aber Falls, Abergwyngregyn, Gwynedd
Just north of Snowdonia National Park, this is one of just four whisky distilleries in Wales, but again swerves into gin country with its range of novel gins that scream for a cocktail glass, like Orange Marmalade and Rhubarb & Ginger. These are made with the crystal-clear water that trickles down from mountains around Aber Falls. You can also go classic with their Welsh Dry. The emphasis here is on sustainability, with the distillery sourcing botanicals from North Wales, and working together with the local botanical gardens in Gwynedd to develop recipes. Tasting notes: Welsh Dry Gin has a big juniper thing going on, with lots of citrus and subtle sweetness and spiciness. Rhubarb & Ginger is more piney, with warming ginger to finish - I really liked it. Mix it with: Try it in cocktails like Menai Martini (with vermouth, lemon and lime rind) and Rhubarb Pie (with vanilla liqueur, gomme, apple and lemon juice). Buy it from: Amazon, Master of Malt, Harlech, Joseph Keegan, £22-28
Cure for Cholera Cygnet, Swansea
Harking back to a recipe that attempted to cure cholera in the 1800s, cygnet is aiming to wing Swansea into a brighter future with its hand-crafted Welsh dry gin, overseen by master distiller Dai Wakely. Swansea’s heritage as a port city is revived in the botanicals, which come from all over the globe and feature almonds, cardamom, chamomile, angelica root, coriander, juniper, licorice and orris root. The result is a clean, bright gin with a pinch of history. At the show distillery, part of Juniper Place (a gin-themed fine dining restaurant and bars), you can see gin in the making while nursing a G&T or cocktail. For more insight, hook onto one of the free tours or more indepth gin master classes. Tasting notes: Crisp and subtly floral, with hints of chamomile, citrus, coriander and a juniper bite. Mix it with: go for a classic G&T with a slice of lemon, lime or grapefruit, or add to any gin-based cocktail. Buy it from: Online (www.cygnet-distillery.co.uk), £34.99, or from Master of Malt (www.masterofmalt. com).
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Botanical brews Eccentric, Caerphilly
Forager’s favourite Dyfi Distillery, Corris, Machynlleth
When Pete Cameron moved to the Dyfi 35 years ago, he felt he had stumbled across his very own Welsh Eden: a lush valley of rare wildlife, pure air and gently sloping hills. As a hill farmer, forager, beekeeper and experimental scientist, Pete created a small-batch gin using precision distilling, capturing a profound sense of place using foraged wild botanicals. These range from bog-myrtle leaf, pine tips and gorse flower in the Original Gin to rowan berries, rosehips, sloe, hawthorn, heather and bramble in the Pollination Gin, and autumnal flavours of crab apple, bilberry and blackberry in Hibernation Gin. Original gin was shortlisted for Best British Gin 2018 at the Great British Food Awards. Visitors are welcome to stop by. Tasting notes: Original is rich and with lots of juniper; Pollination really tastes of wild flowers, fruits and conifer tips - it’s amazing stuff. Hibernation is fruity and herbal. Mix it with: Neat or in a martini or negroni, with optional garnish of bruised juniper and twisted lime peel. Buy it from: Online (www.dyfidistillery.com), £31.95£42.95
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The distillery’s precise location in the valleys of South Wales is something of a secret, but Eccentric gins are swiftly becoming all the rage. They hail originally from Llantrisant, famous former home of Welsh physician and druid William Price. Distilled by brewers, mixlogists and a freeman in a wide range of different casks, their wholly unique gins play up seldom heardof botanicals, such as wild sunflower or ‘elfwort’, which gives it a subtle sweetness and an underlying floral bitterness. There’s a huge range to try too with utterly bonkers ones like Pembrokeshire Pinky, with cherry and lemongrass flavours. Tasting notes: Very hard to choose favourites here. Madame Geneva has lovely hints of citrus and liquorice; you can really taste the rosemary, fennel and sorrel in more herbal Cardiff Dry. Limbeck bursts with blue ginger, citrus, tarragon and Seville orange spectacular. Mix it with: Serve Madame Geneva with ice, a slice of orange and a dash of tonic, and Limbeck with the same (plus optional sage). Cardiff Dry pairs well with rosemary and cucumber. Buy it from: Online (www.eccentricgin.co.uk), from £30 a bottle, or from Master of Malt (www. masterofmalt.com).
Natural Selection: A good gin deserves a great mixer Llanllyr SOURCE mixers, Talsarn
It’s all in the water. That’s the secret to Llanllyr SOURCES’s range of mixers. Their low mineral, wonderfully soft, water is sourced from springs in the heart of Ceredigion located on their organic, Green Dragon Level 5 Environmental Certified, farm. This helps explain why Llanllyr SOURCE is the water of choice for many of the world’s best Michelin starred restaurants, who know a thing or too about taste. Utilising the pure SOURCE water as the base ingredient and working closely with mixologists they have now redefined mixers with a range that includes two tonic waters. Tasting notes: The natural softness of the water is particularly effective in the lightly bittered tonic water which really lets the subtleties of the gin shine. With less quinine, and purely natural ingredients, it’s a gentler mixer than many other brands. It’s ideally suited to enhancing the botanical and floral flavours of modern craft gins, whilst also allowing you to see more traditional favourites in a new light. We really loved it in Cygnet and Dyfi’s Pollination, noticing that it adds a very pleasant citrus finish. The light version is slightly more bitter and works brilliantly with juniper biased gins such as Aber Falls’ Welsh Dry. Buy it from: discoverdelicious.wales £13.50 for four
www.gomer.co.uk
Eating in or Eating out?
£14.99
£9.99
Bwyta adrE nEu fwyta mas?
“Wonderful food and the warmest of welcomes”
Zoe Williams, The Daily Telegraph
“We aim to create a dining experience our guests will not forget” James Sommerin
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Restaurant James Sommerin The Esplanade. Penarth, CF64 3AU Tel. 029 20706559 www.jamessommerinrestaurant.co.uk
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Plant power! Vegetarianism and Veganism are booming in Wales. You only need to take a look at any number of insta-feeds to see it. Veg fan Meryl Cubley does some meat-free munching. No mushed-up vegetable patties here
Who’d have thought it? Latest figures show over 35,000 of us have gone Vegan in Wales and Cardiff has the highest proportion of veggies of any city in the UK. So here’s our round-up of what’s cooking on the veg and vegan scene right now.
Beat the hangover - Vegan Style
Grazing Shed
The Lazy Leek
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When you’ve had a big night out, a quinoa salad with pea shoots and chia seeds just isn’t going to cut it. But never fear, there’s a gaggle of places serving up seriously filthy vegan food, perfect for getting you over the night before - or filling your belly on the way home! Greazy Vegan (Castle Arcade, Cardiff; 07432 726091; www.greazyvegan.com) finally opened its doors in September, and boy, was it worth the wait. The Vacon Double Cheese Burger is loaded up with two meat-style burgers (no mushed-up vegetable patties here) as well as stacks of ‘bacon’ and ‘cheese’. It’s the absolute best, but the Chickun Royale and the Vegan Doner Kebab come close second and third. Then the team at Grazing Shed (07599 882363; www.thegrazingshed.com) have expanded to four locations across Cardiff. Vegan highlights are Matt Pritchard’s (of Dirty Sanchez fame) Dirty Burger and the Vegan Wah Wah, with cashew nut cream. ‘Cheesy’ chips, made with Grazing Shed’s own secret vegan cheese recipe are not to be missed either. Feeling not quite ‘that’ dirty? Try The Lazy Leek (183A Kings Rd, Cardiff; 029 2022 5270 www.lazyleek.co.uk) They specialise in vegan street food, but everything’s prepared from scratch using fresh, mainly organic ingredients.
Save our pubs - with plant power! Dylan Jones, the landlord of the White Swan Inn, (Stryd Yr Ysgol, Llanon, Ceredigion; 01974 202721 www.whiteswaninn.co.uk) thinks plant power may be the way forward for pubs. Takings really picked up after they added more vegan and veggie dishes to their menu. The dishes are going down a storm - including a vegan option on the hot and spicy Thursday Curry Nights. There’s even a vegan option on the Christmas menu. It’s a philosophy The Golden Lion, in Magor (Village Square, Magor, Monmouthshire 01633 880312 www.thegoldenlionmagor.co.uk) shares. Their vegan menu is imaginative and inventive - try the pan fried ‘sea tofu’ scallops, served with pea mash and topped off with crispy seaweed. You can quaff vegan booze alongside, which is a cause for celebration alone: no sulphates = less hangovers! And if you’re in Lisvane, south Wales, head for the Old Cottage pub (Cherry Orchard Rd, Nr. Coed y Felin Wood, Lisvane; www.oldcottagecardiff.co.uk). The menu features no less than three vegan starters, five mains and a bunch of sides and desserts. Perfect for a treat after a walk around Coed y Felin Wood.
White Swan Inn
The Golden Lion “Sea Tofu“
Anyone for a social? A while back Charlie Berry, of the Brontosaurus Vegan Lifestyle Store in Swansea (07707 320442; www.facebook.com/brontosaurusvegan) started arranging a bi-monthly Vegan Mini Market in the centre of Swansea Indoor Market. From there grew a partnership with Unit Nineteen (Little Wind Street; 01792 655264; www.unitnineteen.co.uk) and a bi-monthly Vegan Social Night there soon followed. You’ll find both sweet and savoury vegan treats to try, 100% vegan bar and live music. Both are free and everyone is welcome. The Warren in Carmarthen (11 Mansel St; 01267236079; www.warrenmanselst.co.uk) was also born when two personalities collided. This time a chef and an organic farmer. Chef Deri Reed and his business partners decided to run events on Thursday evenings, alongside their very tasty vegan menu options. They’ve proved a humongous success and include pub quizzes, open mic nights, street food events and supper clubs. And then if you fancy a knees-up in west Wales, you can tap your toes to tunes from local bards as you chew on sophisticated veggie and vegan dishes at The Mulberry Bush in Lampeter (2 Bridge St; 01570 423317; www.mulberrywholefoods.co.uk/gb).
www.taste-blas.co.uk
Try the pan fried ‘sea tofu’ scallops, pea mash and crispy seaweed
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Do you have a sweet tooth? It’s not just junk food, you know. There’s a real thing going on with desserts too. The gang at Ice Green, Cardigan (07449 929295; www.facebook.com/ VeganIceGreen) scoop out yummy vegan ice cream, served from an equally gorgeous vintage caravan. They are now looking into a hemp seed base for their ice creams, which will give them a big green environmental tick too. Fancy cake? (We love a good thick slice.) The guys at Simply V (26 Castle Arcade; www.simply-v.co.uk) make spectacular occasion cakes. They’re so good even your meat-eating mates will love them. And get this for an unusual combo: Anna and Oliver recently set up the CaribSwede Vegan Bakery Company (01495 321 808; www.caribswede-foodanddrink.com) in the south Wales valleys combining their Scandi-Caribbean heritage to create all kinds of sultry sweet things. They even offer courses in Vegan baking and cooking. And even if you don’t live nearby, Uncle Albert’s Cake and Ice Cream Emporium (High Street, Borth; 01970 871166) in north mid Wales is worth a detour. Along with loads of savoury delights there’s a mind-boggling selection of sweet treats, ice creams and vegan cakes. It’s all super good for the planet too: the shop has eco-electricity, has never stocked plastic and has fully compostable take away containers
Ice Green
Herbivore
‘DIRT’
Milgi
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CaribSwede
Fine Dining if you please! Looking for something a little more special? Then head to new monthly vegetarian supper club, ‘DIRT’ (www.dirtpopup.com) guaranteed to tease and tantalise the taste buds, with a seed-to-supper approach. Expect six courses, from chef John Cook formerly head chef at Arbennig, Pontcanna - working with a sophisticated, seasonal and local menu. November sees DIRT at Oscars in Cowbridge and Nest in Rhiwbina. In December the pop up will be at Cosy Lounge in Porthcawl, followed by Pettigrew Tearooms and Bloc Coffee in Cardiff. Still not satisfied? Try Herbivore at the Embassy Café, (Cathays, Cardiff 029 2037 3144 www.theherbivore.co.uk) in residence at the weekends, with dishes such as Miso Mushroom and Leek Risotto, Peanut Slaw and Soba Noodles. Milgi (City Road, Cardiff www.milgicardiff.com) offers an incredibly tasty and filling menu for vegans and vegetarians. Try the Arancini Balls and the Wild Mushroom Lasagne. If you really want a treat, head to Tremeifion Vegetarian and Vegan Hotel (Soar Road, Talsarnau, Gwynedd, LL47 6UH www.tremeifionvegetarianhotel.co.uk) a hotel and restaurant solely committed to plant-power dishes that will make even the meat-eaters jealous. Try the Sorrel and Hazelnut Soup to start - then make a toast whilst choosing mouth-watering-mains with a selection of high-end vegan wines and beers. Or finally, try Caffi lechyd Da in Carmarthen (www.facebook.com/iechyddacarmarthen) which regularly serves excellent vegetarian and vegan dishes as well as holding special events with delectable dishes such as Buckwheat and Fennel Seed Bites with crispy Kale and Damson dipping sauce.
A brand proud to be WELSH! Visit the winery or shop online at www.celticwines.co.uk
Celtic Country Wines, The Winery, Henllan, SA44 5TD
HAMPERS
A variety of hampers available to include award winning Christmas puddings, Florentines, three varieties of mince pies, brandy butter, traditional Christmas cake, tropical Christmas Slab, Christmas Bakewell and more.
Handmade products as you’d make them at home
Order online at www.siwgrasbeis.com THE SWEET TASTE OF TRADITIONAL WELSH BAKING www.taste-blas.co.uk
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It’s Christmas! Feeling the stress of cooking the Christmas feast? Let some of the best chefs in Wales take the strain. Angela Gray, Tommy Heaney and Ellis Barrie share their tips and tricks It’s the high point of Christmas for most of us. But if you’ve had to slave over a hot stove and worry whether you put the turkey in early enough, you’ll also know Christmas dinner can be one of the most stressful times of the year. So we figured we should ask the experts. We spoke to some of Wales’ favourite chefs to ask them how they do the festive season. Read on for the best tips and tricks in the trade. Just call it a Christmas present from us to you…
Be prepared Angela Gray opened her highly acclaimed cookery school at Llanerch Vineyard in 2010, subsequently making it into the Top 10 UK Cookery Schools list. Since then she has made several television programmes for the BBC and UKTV Food, including Hot Stuff and More Hot Stuff. “The best advice I can give is to be realistic in what you can handle,” Angela explains. “Set aside enough time to prepare and enjoy the whole process.” Tommy Heaney who has a huge buzz surrounding him right now having recently won the BBC’s Great British Menu competition and opened Heaneys in Cardiff, to great applause, says he starts everything a day ahead: “My main tip is to basically do as much as you can on Christmas Eve.” Angela agrees. In fact, she says you can start prepping way in advance of Christmas Eve. “Making ahead is best – there is so much you can do ahead of time, like making your Christmas pudding, cake, mince pies, canapés and pigs in blankets. And why not make some pickles and chutneys too if you have time, they make great gifts! “Be organised,” Angela continues. “Plan your menus, think how many times you will be entertaining and for how many people. Choose your menus for each occasion, keep it simple with one or two showstopper mains and a few delicious side dishes. If it’s drinks and nibbles, you can do all of the food way in advance.”
Get smart with sides Talking of show-stopping sides, they’re a really easy way to take your Christmas feast to a new level. And yes, you really can use sprouts! Ellis Barrie, co-owner
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of the award-winning The Marram Grass restaurant in Anglesey and also of Great British Menu fame says it’s all about how you top them: “First roast diced bacon and hazelnuts in the oven at 165 °C for 15 to 20 minutes,” he says. “Then blitz the mixture to a coarse crunch crumb and use to heavily season your sprouts finally adding grated Welsh cheese and locally produced and sourced honey.” Tommy Heaney loves a good mini cabbage too: “One of the best things about Christmas has got to be the sprouts; I usually cut them in half and blanch in a pan, caramelise them and garnish with almonds, Manchego cheese, parmesan and roast peppers.” And then the bright batons – the humble carrot – how to wow with this standard fare? Not so standard anymore if it’s been given the Ellis touch. “The best way to impress with the carrots is to firstly cook them in a litre of carrot juice with half a star anise, two crushed cloves of garlic, one cinnamon stick and one crushed cardamom,” says Ellis. “Once cooked remove from the pan and reduce the remaining carrot juice to 100ml liquid and pass through a sieve. Add the carrots back into a reduced liquid and then reduce further to a glaze. Now remove from the heat and fold in 50g of butter and season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley, toasted sesame seeds and chopped chestnuts.”
Spuds, glorious spuds Of course no Christmas feast is complete without the very best festive roast potatoes. Competition runs rife throughout the land as families and friends go headto-head over roasties that must be crisp on the outside and light and fluffy on the inside. Not as easy as it sounds. Tommy says that he plans his spuds a day in advance. “I boil, drain and season them and then give them a good shake; before putting them in the fridge overnight. I ‘colour’ them in a pan the next day with goose fat and garlic, before sticking them in a hot oven with rosemary and more garlic cloves the following day.”
Let battle commence
Do’ List o ‘T s a tm is r h C November ing as cake & pudd Make Christm Dec 1 ls Plan main mea Dec week 1 oose Order turkey/g Dec Week 3 as shop Main Christm es pi ce in Make m Dec 23rd prep nibbles Cook ham and tmas Eve wine for Chris Make mulled Make Jalousie Christmas eve ch veg Prep and blan Par boil spuds puree the big day Make chestnut tailed plan for de a te ri w d Make an
When it comes to organisation and planning the actual execution, running a tight ship is best. “Don’t get overwhelmed!” says Angela. “I always begin my preparations with a pre-Christmas organisation of my kitchen. I check cupboards, drawers and surfaces, freeing up as much space as possible and keeping the equipment I will need to hand. “And look at your entertaining schedule,” Angela continues. “Even if it is just Christmas Day, it needs to be planned. Organise what you can do in advance. You will need to work out the timings for your turkey/ goose/beef so that you know when you need to start on the actual day. Once that is underway, your timings for everything else should be less stressful, especially if you get a lot done in advance.” All three chefs agree that the day before is when it’s time to gather helping hands (even if reluctant) to the table and prepare the vegetables. “This is a ritual in our
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Sling it on the barbie! Looking for something a little avant-garde this season? Then talk to Tommy. According to the Heaney, the big-ticket item has to be the Christmas Turkey. “I usually start with the turkey which I brine 24 hours in advance.” Yes, you did read that correctly – brine! “We like to do things a little differently in the Heaney household. Why go traditional; in fact why not put the turkey on the BBQ and free up the oven? Then finish your bird with a garnish of orange, lemon zest and thyme.” Only the brave should apply!
house,” says Angela. “With mulled wine and nibbles keeping us all going, even if it’s in the morning! You can then par-boil the potatoes, blanch sprouts, carrots, parsnips, cool and cover to store in the fridge. If you are making Yorkshire pudding or Festive Toad, you can make the batter the day before and keep it in the fridge. I do all of this in the morning, as I want my kitchen clear and ready for Christmas Eve supper.”
says, bringing us to a close. “I usually escape for a good 20 minutes and relax with a glass of bubbly before taking to the kitchen for the grand finale. And have fun!” *Angela Gray’s Festive Recipes is published by Graffeg, (£9.99; www.graffeg.com) A great stocking filler * The Marram Grass cookery school launches in early 2019
Timing is everything Angela goes on to say that on the day itself your timetable is crucial. “However you’re doing it, put the meat in to cook first. Roast potatoes, parsnips, stuffing and pigs in blankets can go in towards the end of cooking, or even whilst the meat is resting. You will have at least 40 minutes available to do these jobs before carving. Loosely cover the meat with foil and pile a few tea towels on top to keep the meat cosy. Finish the fresh vegetables, those you have blanched the day before can be finished in boiling water. It’s time to make the gravy too. Use the meat juices (spoon off most of the fat) and the stock you have prepared or brought. Make sure you have warm serving dishes and plates. If you don’t have room in the oven, put everything in the dishwasher without a tablet and pop it on a short cycle. Do this when you take the meat out, that way the dishes will all be hot and ready to use. “Don’t forget to leave time to get yourself ready!” she
Angela’s ‘prepare in advance’ show-stealers
Baked apples with red cabbage Ingredients
What to do
Cabbage
Prepare the red cabbage, remove the ribs from the leaves and shred finely.
800g red cabbage 50g butter 1 star anise 2 cloves 1 stick cinnamon 50g dark molasses sugar 75ml water 75ml cider vinegar Sea salt and pepper
Apples
4 nice sized eating apples e.g. Pink Lady, Orange Pippin 40g butter 2 tablespoons lemon juice
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Melt the butter in a large pan, add the star anise, cloves and cinnamon, cook for 2 minutes. Add the sugar and cabbage and stir well. Pour in the water, vinegar, and seasoning, stir well and cover with a lid and cook really slowly for about 2 hours. You may need to add a little water occasionally to prevent sticking. Stir occasionally. Meanwhile prepare and roast the apples. Cut them in half around the middle and use the tip of a teaspoon to remove the core and pips. Brush with lemon juice and a slice of the butter. Place in a roasting tin lined with parchment. Roast in the oven at 160°C fan/gas 4 for 30 minutes. Remove the apples and pile in the red cabbage in the middle of the apples and bake for a further 10 minutes. Remove and serve with the main attraction. You can assemble the apples with the cabbage, cover and keep in the fridge for up to 48 hours. Re-heat them at the same temperature as above, but cover them with buttered foil. Cook for 20 minutes covered and 10 minutes uncovered.
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Sweet chestnut purée Ingredients
What you do
75ml of water 175g of caster sugar 1 teaspoon of vanilla bean paste 1 tablespoon of brandy 300g of cooked chestnuts
Make a syrup by boiling 75ml of water with the caster sugar for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool slightly. Stir in the vanilla bean paste and brandy. Using a food processor, blitz the cooked chestnuts, add the syrup and continue to blend until a smooth purée is formed.
Almond and fruit jalousie Ingredients Frangipane
85g unsalted butter at room temperature – it should be nice and soft 85g golden caster sugar 85g ground almonds 50g plain flour 1 medium egg 1 teaspoon vanilla paste
Jalousie
1 pack ready-made puff pastry 220g mincemeat 1 large eating apple, peeled, thinly sliced and sautéed in 20g of butter to soften 1 tablespoon brandy or rum 1 medium sized egg, beaten for glazing 1 dessertspoon of demerara sugar
To Serve
Icing sugar to dust Crème fraîche to serve Serves 8
What you do First make the frangipane by mixing everything together into a thick paste. Roll the pastry to a thin oblong, 6 inches wide and 18 inches long. Cut in half crosswise to give you 2 x 9 inch long strips. Flour one strip lightly and fold in half lengthways. Make a series of evenly spaced cuts through the folded edges to within one inch of the trimmed edge on both sides. This will give a glimpse of the mincemeat and apples inside, once placed on top and baked. To assemble the jalousie, line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the base pastry on the baking sheet and spread with the frangipane, leaving an inch border all the way around. Spoon the mincemeat on top and smooth out to cover the frangipane. Next, lay a line of overlapping cooked apple slices along the centre of the mincemeat and spoon over the rum. Brush the edge of the base all around with some egg wash. Open
out the slashed piece of pastry and lay on top. Seal the edges all around and crimp them together. Brush with some egg wash and sprinkle with the demerara sugar. Place in the centre of a preheated oven at 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas 5 and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until well risen and beautifully golden. If you think it is browning too quickly you may reduce the oven temperature for the last 5 to 10 minutes and cover with a sheet of foil. Remove from the oven. Dredge lightly with icing sugar and serve warm with some crème fraîche.
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Recipes
Ballotine of
Goose INGREDIENTS • •
Chef Angela Gray
1 free-range goose, de-boned Sea salt and black pepper for seasoning
Stuffing • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
50g butter 1 large onion, finely diced 2 sticks celery, finely diced 1 heaped teaspoon orange zest 4 tablespoons orange juice 1 tablespoon brandy 1 small bunch of fresh sage, finely chopped 1 small bunch of parsley, finely chopped 6 ready to eat dried apricots, chopped 1 tablespoon dried cranberries ½ teaspoon allspice 150g breadcrumbs 300g minced pork 100g minced veal (optional) or cooked ham 150g chicken livers – goose if you can 1 medium egg, beaten 2 teaspoons of sea salt and 1 flat teaspoon pepper 12 sage leaves 10 pitted prunes soaked in 100ml port for 48 hours 6 slices cured ham
Sauce •
750ml stock, including the juices from the goose and good chicken • stock for the rest • 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses • 1 teaspoon maple syrup • 2 ½ tablespoons arrowroot • 4 tablespoons red wine – something you are drinking with the goose Serves 8-10
WHAT YOU DO To make the stuffing Heat the butter in a large pan, add the onion and celery, plus 4 tablespoons of water, cover with a lid and sauté over a medium heat, stirring occasionally until softened. Remove the lid and continue cooking until lightly golden in colour. Stir in the orange zest, orange juice, sage and parsley, cook off most of the moisture, then add the brandy and flame or ignite using a long nosed lighter. Once the flames subside, add the chopped apricots and cranberries and stir in the allspice. Remove from the
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heat and transfer into a large mixing bowl. Leave to cool for 10 minutes. Add the breadcrumbs, minced pork and veal and combine everything together. Chop the livers if using and mix in together with the beaten egg, season with the sea salt and pepper. I like to fry a teaspoon of the stuffing to make sure the seasoning is correct.
To assemble You will need a large piece of foil, 1½ times the size of the goose. You may need two sheets overlapping. Lay a large sheet or 2 of parchment paper on top of the foil and sprinkle with sea salt and black pepper. Scatter a few sage leaves along the centre section of the paper. Lay the boned goose out flat on a board, skin side down, and open out completely, seasoning well with salt and pepper. Lay the slices of cured ham across the breast section. Place half the stuffing on top and make a shallow trench using the side of your hand. Insert the prunes and then top with the remaining stuffing. Using cupped hands along the edges of the stuffing, shape it into a cylinder. Take hold of the parchment paper nearest you, pull towards you and upwards, roll up moving over and forward, tucking in the ends; the seal should be underneath. Bring the rolled goose in parchment towards the edge of the foil nearest you and repeat the process, then twist the ends of the foil tightly to form a firm sealed cylinder.
To cook Place in a preheated oven at 150°C/Fan 130°C/ Gas 3 for 20 minutes per 450g. Remove the foil and parchment, cutting with scissors. Drain off the juices and reserve them for the sauce. Place back in the oven and turn up the heat to 200°C/ Fan 180°C/Gas 6 and cook until golden brown, basting a couple of times throughout to help the colour. This should take about 25 minutes – factor this time into the total cooking time. Remove from the oven and loosely cover with foil and a couple of tea towels. Leave to rest for about 30 minutes before carving. Meanwhile, have a stiff drink and make the sauce. Spoon off any fat from the juices (you can keep the fat in the fridge for your next roasties) and pour into a saucepan. You need 750ml of liquid, so top up using chicken stock and any resting juices from the meat. Add 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses and 1 teaspoon of maple syrup to the stock. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer. Thicken with 2½ tablespoons of arrowroot dissolved in 4 tablespoons red wine. Slowly pour into the simmering stock, whisking as you go until the liquid thickens slightly. Buy Angela’s cook book from £9.99. Waterstones Cardiff/Swansea/Newport (www.waterstones.com)
Recipes
T ŷ Si n si r Broadcaster Elliw Gwawr is encouraging families to eat a healthier diet with less salt and sugar in her new book Blasus (Tasty) published by Y Lolfa. Elliw is ‘Mam’ to 3-year old Gruff, and as a busy mother who has to balance work and family, she knows the challenges parents face as they try to provide healthy meals, therefore there is an emphasis on healthy, simple recipes – both sweet and savoury – to please the whole family. From babies’ first foods, and recipes full of hidden vegetables to a chapter on Christmas treats. For those with a sweet tooth who have enjoyed this element in Elliw’s previous books, there are new recipes for cakes, puddings and treats for parties and special occasions. Blasus is full of original illustrations by the artist Lowri Davies and photographs by Warren Orchard. Tŷ Sinsir Mae gwneud tŷ sinsir yn lot o hwyl i blant ac oedolion. Gwnewch dempled papur i gael sylfaen y tŷ, yna glynwch y darnau at ei gilydd â’r eisin caled. Gadewch i’r plant ddefnyddio eu dychymyg wrth addurno’r tŷ. 200g o fenyn heb halen 200g o siwgr brown tywyll 5 llwy fwrdd o surop 550g o flawd plaen 2 lwy de o soda pobi 3 llwy de o sinsir mâl 1 llwy de o sinamon Ar gyfer yr eisin 1 gwynnwy 170g o siwgr eisin 1 llwy fwrdd o sudd lemon Detholiad o fferins i addurno 1. Cynheswch y popty i 180ºC / Ffan 160ºC / Nwy 4. 2. Cynheswch y menyn, y siwgr a’r surop mewn sosban dros dymheredd cymedrol nes eu bod wedi toddi. 3. Rhowch y blawd, y soda pobi, y sinsir a’r sinamon mewn powlen fawr a’u cymysgu. 4. Ychwanegwch y cynhwysion gwlyb at y cynhwysion sych a’u cymysgu’n dda â llwy bren i ffurfio toes gweddol stiff. 5. Ysgeintiwch y bwrdd â blawd a rholio’r toes nes ei fod yn 5mm o drwch. 6. Gan ddilyn y templed papur torrwch 2 o bob siâp a’u rhoi ar dun pobi wedi’i leinio â phapur gwrthsaim. Os oes toes ar ôl gallwch dorri pobl fach neu goed Nadolig i fynd gyda’r tŷ. 7. Coginiwch am 20 munud. 8. Os yw’r bisgedi wedi gwasgaru’n ormodol ar ôl eu tynnu o’r popty gallwch sythu’r ochrau drwy eu torri ag olwyn bitsa neu gyllell finiog. Gwnewch hyn yn syth o’r popty cyn i’r bisgedi oeri a chaledu. 9. Er mwyn gwneud yr eisin, chwisgiwch y gwynnwy mewn powlen fawr nes bod swigod yn dechrau ymddangos. Yna, gyda’r cymysgwr ar gyflymder isel, ychwanegwch y siwgr eisin 1 llwyaid ar y tro. Pan fyddwch wedi ychwanegu’r siwgr eisin i gyd,
ychwanegwch y sudd lemon a chwisgio nes bod y cymysgedd yn stiff. 10. Rhowch yr eisin mewn bag peipio gan dorri twll bychan yn y pen. 11. Rhowch rywfaint o eisin ar fwrdd cacen neu blât i ddal waliau’r tŷ. 12. Peipiwch ychydig o eisin ar yr ymylon lle bydd y waliau’n pwyso yn erbyn ei gilydd a’u gwasgu ynghyd. Defnyddiwch ddysgl fach neu gwpanau tu fewn i’r tŷ i ddal y waliau yn eu lle tra eu bod yn sychu. 13. Gadewch iddyn nhw sychu’n llwyr, am ychydig oriau yn ddelfrydol. Pan fyddan nhw wedi sychu, tynnwch y bowlen neu’r gwpan sy’n dal y waliau oddi yno a glynu’r to ymlaen â mwy o eisin. Fe fydd yn rhaid i chi ddal darnau’r to yn eu lle am ychydig funudau neu fe fyddan nhw’n llithro i ffwrdd. Fe allwch chi osod cwpan neu botyn bach oddi tanyn nhw i’w dal yn llonydd tra bod yr eisin yn sychu. Gadewch iddyn nhw sychu’n llwyr, dros nos yn ddelfrydol. 14. I addurno, defnyddiwch weddill yr eisin i beipio ffenestri a drws, ac i ludo fferins neu siocledi i’r tŷ. Blasus by Elliw Gwawr (Y Lolfa), £14.99
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Quic k an d e as y boi l ed
Recipes
fruit cake Lisa Fearne’s Christmas Cake When it comes to Christmas cake recipes we’re spoilt for choice. Some recipes are very labour intensive, others require days of preparation in advance. Some cakes, like babies, need to be wrapped up and fed regularly. If you really haven’t got the time, try this boiled cake method my grandmother used which requires significantly less cooking time than most Christmas cakes.
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • •
3 cups of mixed fruit 1 cup of milk 1 cup of brown sugar 170g melted butter 2 cups of self-raising flour ½ teaspoon of mixed spice 1 teaspoon of baking powder 3 eggs well beaten
For the decoration: • • • •
marzipan royal icing or simply add fruit, nuts and an apricot jam glaze
The night before:
Place the mixed fruit in a bowl with some fruit tea and a few balls of marzipan. Stir well, to melt the marzipan and leave to stand overnight.
The next day:
Pre-heat the oven to 180°C / 160°C (fan) / 350°F / gas mark 4. Place the mixed fruit, milk, sugar and butter in a large
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saucepan and boil for 5 minutes. Allow the mixture to cool. Then add 2 cups of self-raising flour, the mixed spice, baking powder add three well beaten eggs. Mix together. Line a 9” (22cm) cake tin with parchment paper. Fill the lined cake tin with the mixture and place in the oven for 1½ hrs until cooked.
To decorate:
Once cooled, cover the cake with melted apricot jam, this will help to secure the marzipan to the cake. Roll out the marzipan to about 4mm thick and place on top of the cake then trim to size. For a quick traditional looking cake add spoonfuls of stiff white icing on top, using a pallet knife, to make a snow drift pattern, then add favourite toy Christmas decorations. Add a ribbon to the sides and stand back to admire your handiwork. To finish, glaze with more apricot jam. For a nutty fruit cake: Brush the cake with a thick layer of apricot jam and arrange some of your favourite fruit and nuts on top. This article is an excerpt from Dathlu / Celebrate - by Lisa Fearn (GOMER) £14.99 Published November 2019. Available from good bookshops, GWALES and AMAZON.
Recipes
The
Chocomosa Chef Anand George’s signature dessert of a light crispy pastry parcel filled with a melted Belgian chocolate ganache, served with homemade vanilla ice cream (Makes 4 portions)
INGREDIENTS Flaked almonds – 10gms Callebaut Dark Chocolate Callets 53.8% – 75gms Butter unsalted – 30gms Caster sugar – 12gms Egg medium – 1 Spring roll pastry pouch – 8 (see recipe below) Oil (for frying) Plain flour-handful 1 Banana Sugar
METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 220C and the roast the almonds for 5 minutes until toasted but not burned. 2. Melt the chocolate, butter, sugar and egg in a bainmarie, mixing gently occasionally, until it forms a smooth ganache. It should take about 7 minutes. Leave to cool, then add the roasted almond fakes. Mix well and refrigerate for 12 hours. 3. Divide the ganache into 8 equal parts. 4. Mix some flour with water to make a paste to stick the edges of the samosa together, which will stop the ganache from oozing out when gently frying. 5. Place one spoon of ganache into the pastry pouch, continue folding into a samosa shape, enclosing the ganache mixture. Stick the sides well with the flour paste. 6. Deep fry at 180C for 30 seconds. 7. Slice the banana, dust with sugar and caramelize with a blow torch. 8. To serve place two slices of banana, with the chocomosa on top with vanilla ice-cream
Samosa Pastry Portion – 75 pouches 30 sheets of ready made spring roll pastry – 1 (Approx. 250mmx 250mm) 1. Cut the spring roll sheet into 16 five and-a-half cm rectangles. 2. On the long side of each rectangle, mark 13cm, from the bottom of the left hand corner. Make a cut from this mark to the right hand corner. Take 2 rectangles and put them together at right angles to form an L shape with the joining corner ‘cut away’. 3. Fold over each leg to the L once to make a pouch. So each rectangle will make 15 pastry pouches, and a total of 75 pouches from the entire pastry sheet. Add in the samosa mixture and continue folding into a samosa shape, enclosing the mixture. The 5000 Mile Journey by Anand George (Away With Media) info@purplepoppadom.com Purple Poppadom, 185A Cowbridge Road East, Canton, Cardiff CF11 9AJ; 029 2022 0026
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A Day in the Life of a Michelin Star Restaurant Restaurant James Sommerin, Penarth Have you ever stopped to think what it takes to become a Michelin-star rated Chef, and exactly what that kind of commitment entails? Surely, once you’ve hit the top, the really hard work stops, and you get to coast for the rest of your career? In fact, the really hard graft kicks into top gear the minute you are awarded a star; the pressure to maintain standards – let alone aim for a second Michelin star - is truly off the charts.
01.00am − Home time for James, Georgia, Joe and Steve. Wednesday was Joe’s first day as Junior SousChef, whilst this is Steve’s second week as Commis Chef. Georgia - James’ 19 year old daughter – who started work experience at The Crown at Whitebrook when she was 13 years old, has recently been promoted to the role of Sous-Chef, and is now second in command to her famous father.
Caerleon-born Chef James Sommerin hit the headlines in 2007, when he won a Michelin Star for Wales at The Crown at Whitebrook, near Monmouth. ‘The Crown’ inherited the accolade when James moved on in 2013 to set up a restaurant in his own name. Following the opening, in 2014, of Restaurant James Sommerin in Penarth, he won a Michelin Star in 2016, that he has twice retained. taste.blas was delighted to accept an invitation to join the team in November 2018, to record a timeline of a typical day...
02.00am – Around this time on a Saturday night, the whole team make a weekly pilgrimage to McDonalds, in Barry or Cardiff Bay. Georgia unwinds at her new home in Barry watching Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives on Netflix, whilst James was up with a glass of red wine watching an American documentary on Japanese kitchen knives.
Main Players: Chef Patron – James Sommerin Sous-Chef – Georgia Sommerin (James’ 19 year old daughter) Junior Sous-Chef − Joe Claridge Commis Chef − Steve Gill Office Manager – Beth Jones (James’ Sister in Law) Front of House – Nick Lawrence and Catherine Longree (James’ Sister in Law & Louise Sommerin’s twin sister) Louise Sommerin (Director, James’ Wife) Angharad Sommerin (James’ 15 year old daughter) Elin Sommerin (James’ 8 year old daughter) Melton – the Sommerin family’s 9 week old Miniature Daschund Thursday, November 15th , 2018 00.00am – The last restaurant guests left just before midnight, including a member of the Llanelli Scarlets squad. He had proposed to his girlfirend earlier in the day, and they celebrated with a ‘Chef ’s Table’ experience in the restaurant kitchen. Following a thorough ‘clean-down’, and food orders placed for the days ahead, Georgia sets up next morning’s breakfast for the restaurant-with-rooms ‘hotel’ guests.
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03.00am – Bedtime for James. 06.00am – Georgia wakes up, eats porridge for breakfast, before making her way to the restaurant for the breakfast shift at 8am. 08.00am – Georgia starts baking the bread for the day, Beth arrives for her day shift as Office Manager. 09.00am − James arrives to prep the meat, as do Joe and Steve as well. Louise pops her head round the door to say hello. 10.00am – Anne-Marie, the restaurant housekeeper is hoovering in the restarant, as James welcomes the rep from Fine Trails Wine Suppliers to explore a brand new house Champagne. Steve is prepping the veg, peeling a small mountain of shallots. Joe is deep-frying the tapioca and laverbread crisp; a Sommerin signature ‘snippet’ that is served on pebbles from Penarth beach, outside. 11.00am – Nick arrives, to start preparing the restaurant lay-out for lunch. Beth and James fold napkins at the pass. Dave, from Ashton’s Fishmongers arrives with the fish and seafood delivery. Steve is chopping heritage carrots. The lamb stock has been on the boil since 9am. Georgia is spreading caremelized onion on her rolled-out dough for the lunch rolls.
12.00pm – Lunch service usually begins at this time, but today’s first guests are not in until 1pm, so there’s a welcome extra hour to prepare. They are expecting a table for two, a table for four, and a table for one – whilst another couple walk-in and request the Tasting Menu. Is the lone diner a critic, or perhaps an awards judge? Time will tell... 01.00pm – Having, unusually, been in meetings for much of the morning, James enters the kitchen, reaches for his apron, and away he goes. In his presence, there is a shift in the kitchen’s energy, and a palpable ‘charge’ is felt. James commissioned his stainless steel open-kitchen to his exact specification, to ensure a ‘flow’ between all members of the kitchen team. The atmosphere is calm, very ordered and peaceful; all four team-members almost appear to glide, and dance past each other, with a constant, mindful, refrain, ‘watch your back’. 02.00pm – Nick calls in to the kitchen with a question; one of the guests would like to know how spicy the curried Monkfish main is. She says she does not have an intolerance, per se, it’s just that she’s a self-described ‘wimp’ when it comes to chillis. James assures him that the dish should be perfectly fine, as the only heat in the dish derives from the ginger. 03.00pm – Steve empties the sous-vide water basin under the sink; he hands James the vaccum-packed loins and shoulders of lambs, for boning – a favourite past-time of the award-winning Chef-Patron.
08.00pm − The two guests at the kitchen’s Chef Table are quiet tonight, and remark how incredibly organized everything in the kitchen is; the newly engaged couple that were in last night were full of questions for the team – a welcome element, that adds to the lively banter and kitchen atmosphere. 09.00pm − Steve and Joe experience ‘service’ for the first time in their careers, as they present dishes to the tasting menu guests – a personal touch at Restaurant James Sommerin. 10.00pm − The 4th course of the Vegetarian Tasting menu is ready to go at the pass; Heritage Carrot, Basil, Seeds and Burrata Cheese. 11.00pm – the last guests are yet to place their order for dessert, but Steve starts the kitchen ‘clean-down’, and is soon joined by Georgia and Joe. James and Joe later attend to the dishwasher, whilst Catherine starts to polish the cutlery. 12.00am – Two ‘tables’ still remain, with the guests basking in the afterglow of a fine meal. The thorough kitchen clean-down continues. For Nick this is quality
04.00pm – The lone diner has just left, he was a businessman from Japan. The group of 4 are still at their table, devouring the Sommerin signature plum souffle, with parma violet ice cream. The evening ‘prep’ in the kitchen is in full swing. 05.00 pm – The final lunch guests have left, having enjoyed a memorable meal, and there are two hours to go before the evening guests arrive. Each member of the team is responsible for preparing the evening staff dinner to a specific budget; tonight it is Georgia’s turn, as she is also on ‘breakfast prep’. For the staff, it’s pizza time! 06.00pm − Catherine arrives to take over from Beth – she is a seasoned ‘FOH’. Like James (who sneaks a peek at the customers through the open kitchen window), she can usually sense when guest are genuinely enjoying themselves; ‘You can tell by their body-language, the conversation flows and they are totally relaxed, and they are more curious about asking questions.’ 07.00pm − Show-time! It’s almost a full-house tonight; 16 are in for the 6 course menu, 2 for the 9 course Chef ’s Table (in the restaurant kitchen) tasting menu, 2 for the vegetarian tasting menu, and 2 for the 14 course tasting menu. All in all that’s 154 plates, and on top of that they offer ‘snippets’, which brings the total up to 200 perfectly presented plates. Not bad at all for a Thursday night!
preparation time for the day ahead. The bane of his life, he says, is ‘that there are never enough hours in the day’. 01.00am – The final guests have now left; at this time, James occassionally sits at the restaurant’s centre table, creating the music playlist with a glass of wine. Georgia, Steve and Joe have a meeting at the pass to discuss the weekend orders. Slight panic sets in as the fruit and veg delivery was short today, and indeed was missing vital ingredients for a busy weekend ahead. Georgia starts phoning wholesalers, hoping to ensure a morning delivery of raspberries, girrolles and fresh figs – to name but a few. 02.00am − A call is received; the wholesaler’s delivery date has changed from Thurday to Friday. It would have been nice to have been informed! That’s an extra day’s prep, prior to a busy weekend. Not ideal. As the team prepare to leave, a final question to the team. Following a 15-16-hour day, what on earth will possess them to return to this kitchen in a matter of hours? ‘It’s like a drug’, says James, ‘I can’t think of anything worse than sitting in an office all day’. Joe’s response? ‘I totally agree’.
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Lowri Haf Cooke
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Techniques
Perfect winter roast Welsh Leg of Lamb Winter is the ideal time to enjoy succulent Welsh Lamb raised on the lush, green hills of Wales. Admired by chefs around the globe, Welsh Lamb is a real treat which deserves to be prepared and cooked to perfection. Preparing and cooking a leg of Welsh Lamb is just one of the many skills that apprentices learn when working towards a Foundation Apprenticeship in Professional Cookery and Craft Cuisine Level 2. Cambrian Training Company, delivering apprenticeships for the Food & Drink industry among many other sectors, provides a few tips on how to prepare a leg of Welsh Lamb purchased from your local butcher. Using a sharp boning knife, remove any excess fat and sinew from the outside of the joint. Then, from the side of the joint with the largest surface, begin to cut around the bone, staying as close to it as possible taking care not to waste any of the meat. Once at the ball and socket joint, grip both ends of the leg and snap the bone firmly to release the grip on the socket. Cut around the socket to release fibres still holding the bone in place, then remove the bone and place to one side for making the sauce. Leave the rest of the bone in place. As the lamb roasts, the meat will recede, leaving the bone showing at the end of the leg to enhance the presentation of the cooked joint. Using butcher’s string, tie a piece around the leg, starting at the end and pull tight. Repeat this process every inch down the joint until you reach the end. Place the joint and the bone that you removed on a baking tray, season, stud with garlic, rosemary and anchovies. For pink lamb, roast for 1 hour 10 mins and rest or for well-done lamb roast for 1 hour 30 mins. Regularly baste during roasting until a dark crust has formed on the outside and the inside temperature is at about 60 °C. Then leave to rest.
Chef’s Top Tips •
•
Fancy a different take on the trad roast? Try stuffing your leg of lamb with welsh Pantysgawn goats cheese, spinach and pine nuts.
Use the roasting juices for your sauce by deglazing the pan with wine or port and a little stock. Scratch all the roasted pieces off the bottom of the tray and pass the remaining stock through a sieve into a pan. Reduce by half and thicken by emulsifying one or two knobs of butter whilst the stock is boiling.
For a Moroccan twist, try rubbing the lamb with ras el hanout before roasting and serving with pomegranate and mint cous cous.
Serve with seasonal vegetables and enjoy the perfect roast! For more information about Apprenticeships contact Cambrian Training Company at cambriantraining.com or Tel: 01938 555893.
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Techniques
Christmas classic baking
The chocolate yule log With the festive season fast approaching, it’s a good time to brush up on your baking skills. Forget The Great British Bake Off, this is a chance for you to spend some quality time in the kitchen baking a family treat: a chocolate yule log. Making this particular Christmas classic develops skills learnt by apprentices when working towards a Foundation Apprenticeship in Professional Cookery Level 2 and covers preparing, cooking and finishing basic cakes, sponges, biscuits and scones. So for budding chefs out there wanting to impress the folks at Christmas and also hone their baking skills, Cambrian Training Company provides some handy tips and steps to produce a cracking yule-time treat. (Cooking techniques used include: folding, whisking and baking.) You will need the following ingredients: For the sponge: 3 large eggs, 75g caster sugar, 50g plain flour & 25g cocoa powder For the cream filling: 300g Double cream & 150g Caster sugar For the ganache topping: 300g Double Cream & 300g Dark chocolate Tips: While preparing the sponge, it is recommended you use an electric whisk or a kitchen aid as doing this by hand can take some time.
Method: • • •
•
• • • • • •
Pre-heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 Grease and line a 16 x 28cm Swiss roll tin with baking parchment Using an electric whisk, mix the eggs and sugar together until they become pale and thick. Then add half of the flour/coco powder mix into the egg mixture and use a metal spoon to lightly stir in, cutting through the mix then folding onto itself. This technique ensures the flour is fully and carefully mixed into the eggs without over-beating the mixture. Over-beating will make the baked sponge dense and stop it from rising. Add the remaining flour and continue with the folding. Pour the mixture into the tin and spread evenly, again doing this gently ensuring that the tin is as even as possible. Bake in the oven for around 10-12 minutes, until golden and firm. If the sponge is over-baked it will crack once rolled. The ganache should comprise equal quantities of cream and chocolate. Heat up the double cream until it comes to a boil, then pour over the chocolate and whisk together. Whisk up some double cream with some caster sugar for the filling.
• •
•
Once the sponge is ready remove from the oven and tip out onto a sugared baking parchment, which will stop it sticking when being rolled. When cooled, peel off the lined paper and spread the cream over the sponge. Try not to over fill and leave some space around the edge of the sponge as, when it’s being rolled, the mix will spread to the sides. Start on the short edge and fold over the corner, using the parchment paper to help roll the sponge towards you, which is easier to control. Continue until the whole sponge is rolled, then pour over the ganache and use a fork to spread, giving it a wood effect.
For more information about Apprenticeships contact Cambrian Training Company at cambriantraining.com or Tel: 01938 555893.
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Chef’s Top Tips •
Using a cooking brush, lightly coat the sponge in Baileys Irish Cream before adding the double cream to the chocolate roll.
•
Add a dash of ‘camp coffee’ to the double cream for a coffee taste.
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Profiad bwyta, yfed ac aros unigryw yng nghanol Safle Treftadaeth y Byd Caernarfon. An unique eating, drinking and staying experience at the heart of the Caernarfon World Heritage Site. 18 Stryd Fawr / High Street, Caernarfon ty-castell@outlook.com | 01286 674937 @TyCastellCaernarfon.cymru Cyflwynwch yr hysbys yma wrth gyrraedd Show this advert on arrival
ar gyfanswm eich bil bwyd neu aros os yn gwario dros £25. your food or room bill when you spend over £25.
To advertise in taste. blas magazine call Paul on 029 2019 0224. The magazine that celebrates food and drink in Wales 46
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Eat, drink and be merry! Adam Rees samples the finest Welsh fayre, perfect for the festive season Source of nature Llanllyr Source Natural Mixers Spring water-based drinks and mixers. They seem to be everywhere at the moment. Llanllyr’s, Ceredigion spring water certainly adds something extra to this range of mixers proclaimed to be “the best on the planet”. Both the Tonic Water and Ginger Beer play their role superbly, with subtle flourishes of quinine and spice respectively, while the Lemonade has a fresh dexterity with the Sicilian lemons adding a late twist to the delicate fizz. The Fiery Ginger Beer is perhaps the biggest surprise, giving an instant and prolonged burst of heat. It’s delicious on its own but it could potentially overpower the high market cocktails it’s aimed at. Whether they live up to their world-beater tag is for you to decide, but Source is certainly as good as the much-lauded Fever Tree range. BUY IT: From £23.32 for 16 bottles. Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk)
Thai fighting fit The Coconut Kitchen Pad Thai Kit From its home in Abersoch on the Llŷn Peninsula, The Coconut Kitchen has won a host of awards for its range of Thai sauces, pastes and creamy coconut milk - helping you achieve the same results as the restaurant in your kitchen at home. And now they’ve made it easier still but combining them into these handy kits which include a detailed recipe and instructions for making South East Asian favourite Pad Thai. The chunky rice noodles and toasted peanuts both pass the test, while the Pad Thai sauce, which you can buy in a separate 250mg bottle, is the crucial component. It has a delicate chilli kick, with a fruity flavour that’s imperative to the sweet and sour appeal. With minimal preparation and cooking time, this kit is a winner for a delicious homemade success. BUY IT: From £3.80. The Coconut Kitchen (www.thecoconutkitchen.co.uk)
Crisps n’ dry Banana Joe chips Joining the countless other fruit and veg that are vying to challenge potatoes as the chip of choice, Banana Joe’s come in a range of flavours with plenty of nutritional benefits for diet conscious snackers. Though the Hickory BBQ and Thai Sweet Chilli varieties have an abundance of flavour, the key ingredient sadly does not make the best crisp. With a very stale texture, rather like a regular crisp left in a bowl overnight, these exotic packs are quite disappointing, with even the expected banana taste failing to come through convincingly. Interestingly the simpler Sea Salt option is the strongest, albeit working best with a dollop of calorific dip. Though adequately filling there are more satisfying healthy mid-afternoon snacks out there. BUY IT: From 99p each. The Coconut Kitchen (www.thecoconutkitchen.co.uk)
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When hot can be cool
Tough and scrummy coffee
Murroughs Welsh Brew Infusions Having gone from strength to strength over the past decade with their traditional tea, the Swansea family-run Welsh Brew dip their toes into the realm of flavoured teas. The Peppermint, Green, Lemon & Ginger and Mixed Berries flavours of the Infusion collection all hit the mark, with the perky Peppermint and deep, refreshing Green Tea the stand outs. The Welsh take on English Earl Grey packs a clout that wouldn’t be out of place during a Six Nations rivalry. However, it’s the Green Tea with Coconut that’s the real surprise. That unusual tropical flavour really adds a new dimension, bringing an exotic slice of sun to warm you on those cold Welsh winter nights. BUY IT: From £1.95 for 20 bags. Welsh Brew Tea (www.welshbrewtea.co.uk)
Fat Dragon Coffee Rugby has been an integral part of Welsh culture for over a century, but increasingly local coffee companies are also putting their stamp on our national identity. Set up by current Cardiff Blues front rowers Dillon Lewis and Brad Thyer, Fat Dragon Coffee is one of the latest to tackle the market. While they offer a classy selection of Nespresso capsules for your home machine, we tried out the well-received bean varieties in our cafetiere. The namesake house brand from South America has some hearty depth with a few sweet piques of toffee and fruit, while the Raging Dragon tames the bitter robusta tendencies with a much smoother taste while still offering a sturdy caffeine hit. Once they’ve hung up their boots these boys have got a hell of beast to fall back on. BUY IT: From £6.79. Fat Dragon (fatdragoncoffee.com)
Comeback cola Lurvill’s Delight Botanical Sodas Originally set up by twins Harold and Iolo Lewis in the Rhondda 120 years ago and ended by a dock leaf shortage in 1910, the re-emergence of Lurvill’s Delight offers a wonderfully nostalgic success story. With just the right amount of fizz for a bit of zip, the Original’s blend of nettle, rhubarb and juniper has a wholly new yet familiar fruity twang akin to an adult version of cherryade. Touted as an alternative to ginger beer, the Lavender Spice contains a dizzying treat of fruits alongside the kick of ginger and horseradish, capped off by the sweet, fragrant lavender. On more familiar turf, the Union Cola has a mature, refreshing kola nut and apple taste with a lingering malty sensation that’s more welcoming than the likes of the popular Fentimans cola. BUY IT: From £16.32 for 12 bottles. The Drink Shop (www.thedrinkshop.com)
Striving for liqueur Blue Moon and Shipp’s Tipple liqueurs Based out of Henllan, Ceredigion, Celtic Country Wines have a wide roster that covers wines and fine honey mead, alongside zesty vinegars and preserves. So it’s no surprise to see these daring drink merchants extend their hand to luxury liqueurs. Not to be confused with the vodka-based cocktail of the same name, the Blue Moon combines gin and blueberries, while the exotic Shipp’s Tipple looks to the high seas of yesteryear bringing together passion fruit and rum. While the latter pairing make perfect bedfellows giving a titillating fragrant taste where the fruit takes centre stage, the same cannot be said for the Blue Moon. Despite being only 29% it packs a serrated thump, but with very little of either the gin or blueberry making a stand. BUY IT: From £29. Celteg (www.celticwines.co.uk)
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Meat free jollity
Let them eat pud
The Vegan Survival Kit Christmas can be a tricky time for vegetarians or vegans, making these excellent kits from The Parsnipship more than worth their weight. No one will miss out on the gaiety as you tuck in alongside flimsy cracker hats and terrible jokes. Choosing a main centrepiece as well as four sides from an intriguing list of seven, we opted for the Wild Mushroom Nut Roast main that is full of distinct consistencies and savoury bite. Meanwhile the eye-catching festive Beetroot Bomb is packed with fresh aromas, the Moroccan Cashew & Walnut Roast offers a sweet and salty balance, and the sausage-inspired Glamorgan Crumble adds a gooey counterpoint. Oh, and let’s not forget the Tandoori and Lentil Chick Pea Mash-Up which is packed with fragrant spices. BUY IT: From £24. Discover Delicious (www.discoverdelicious.wales)
Luxury Christmas Pudding Siwgr a Sbeis has become one of the best producers of baked goods in Wales, with an embarrassment of awards they’ve acquired over 30 years to prove it. As you’d expect then, their Luxury Christmas Pudding has also picked up accolades. From the moment you unwrap it from its linen packaging it’s easy to see why. Ranging from 1/2lb to 2lb in weight, this moist and rich pudding is worthy of the praise. Whether steamed slowly or quickly microwaved the taste is just as good particularly with lashings of custard. With orange and lemon featuring strongly and the rum and brandy more subtle, this Christmas classic really has been given a modern lease of life. BUY IT: From £4.95-£13.50. Siwgr a Sbeis (www.siwgrasbeis.com)
Sea salt in a spritz Pure Strong Brine Spray This is a novel idea that could well take over your kitchen in no time. Though seasoning is integral to the best-tasting food, not everyone appreciates the intense crunch of coarse sea salt on their food. Instead family-run Halen Môn from Anglesey have come up with this Brine Spray to pep up everything from salads to bread and even deserts without any of the extra crunch. There’s still a concentrated taste and so it’s easy to add a wealth of pizzazz in just a quick spritz. All the company’s products are made using the fresh seawater on their shore and have been such a resounding success that they’ve been awarded Protection Designation of Origin status: so you know you’re getting the most authentic flavour from Halen Môn. BUY IT: From £3.50. Discover Delicious (www.discoverdelicious.wales)
Welsh institution goes nuts Walnut & Ale Bara Brith We couldn’t leave out this Welsh favourite from our list of new products. Baked By Mel founder Mel Constantinou was handed down the distinctive recipe of this classic national loaf, and it’s proved so popular that her fares are now enjoyed far beyond her Llantwit Major home. With the ingredients given a generous soak, the local ale flavour powers through on each mouthful, while the walnut adds a flattering crunch. Above all though it’s the light loaf that’s so delightful. With a dab of butter and hot afternoon drink it’s just perfect. Mel’s take on the classic fruit loaf is second to none. BUY IT: From £17.50. Discover Delicious (www.discoverdelicious.wales)
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Winter tipples
Condiments without the calories
Monty’s Ales Having acquired a range of awards throughout 2018, these Powys hop masters have carved a strong position amongst the avalanche of new, independent breweries flooding shops and pubs throughout the country. The Dark Secret is one of Monty’s premier beers, a gorgeous oatmeal stout with notes of coffee adding to the luxurious quality and as an extra bonus it’s glutenfree as well. The seasonal additions to the roster are the distinct Ding Dong and Figgy Pud. The former contains champagne yeast which delivers a different kind of golden winter cordiality, while the fruity and spicy Christmas-inspired Figgy Pud does exactly what it says on the label, warming and filling you up with a hearty distinct flavour. BUY IT: From £2.35. The Bottle Shop Cardiff (www.thebottleshops.co.uk)
Patchwork Light Pâté Another option for topping Cradoc’s excellent crackers, these pâtés have an abundance of taste without adding copious calories to your daily diet diary. The Patchwork Traditional Food Company out of Ruthin have award-winning expertise when it comes to pâté, so it’s unsurprising that this range of light alternatives don’t shirk on what’s most important: how they taste. The sumptuous Classic Chicken Liver option is creamy and full of bite, while those looking for a bit more gusto should try the Chicken Liver with Mushrooms and Garlic, which is peppered with different treats. The Smoked Salmon with Horseradish on the other hand only goes for a subtle hint of the added spice, keeping the focus on its luxurious, airy fish foundation. BUY IT: From £3.50-£5.10. Discover Delicious (www.discoverdelicious.wales)
Are you crackers? Cradoc’s Crackers Coming from cheese-obsessed mother and daughter Allie and Ella, these quirky flavoured crackers add a completely new dimension to your after-dinner cheeseboard. They come in a variety of tangs that expand on their colourful vegetable range. Lovely pink Beetroot and Garlic, the exotic flavours of Miso & Wasabi seasoning and Szechuan Pepper, Fennel & Red Onion are all unique, giving your tongue multiple kicks even before you add a slice of creamy cheese on top. Our favourite was the more rounded Lemongrass, Coconut & Chilli, which, while still full of intensity has a far smoother blend of alchemy to complement the snappy texture. Head to Discover Delicious, suppliers of the best Welsh food and drink, for some great ideas on how to make some eye-catching and delicious Cradoc’s canapés using them. BUY IT: From £12.50 for three cartons. Discover Delicious (www.discoverdelicious.wales)
Just the chocolate tonic Gin-Dulgence Dark Chocolate There’s no doubt that Haverfordwest-based Wicked Welsh Chocolate Company are this country’s Willy Wonkas. You don’t even need a golden ticket to do tours of their factory where they squash every conceivable flavour into their superb award-winning confections, (though luckily without the orange-faced slave labour and singing). Referring to their latest creation as ‘devilish’ is an understatement, with the deep, cocoa-heavy dark chocolate almost taking a backseat to the swirls of juniper that permeate without being overpowering. Though alcoholic confections are hardly new, those jumping aboard the ever-accelerating gin bandwagon need look no further for a better example of a sweet treat, striking the balance between surprising and smooth. A lot of dark chocolate is best eaten in small quantities, but this screams of its moreish superiority. BUY IT: From £3.99. Discover Delicious (www.discoverdelicious.wales)
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Here for the gear Adam Rees rounds up the latest must-have kit for your kitchen Top of the shots
Sage Nespresso Creatista Uno For the serious coffee lovers who want the best possible morning cup without any hassle, this is about as compact and luxurious a machine as you could acquire. Using Nespresso pods it handles intense ristretto, espresso and lungo shots with its simple controls that are the easiest we’ve found on this type of device. You can even choose whether you want less or more than the automatic amount. The steamer nozzle makes excellent frothy milk very quickly, with adjustable temperature and foam controls and a sensor to tell you when it’s just right for those barista-style cappuccinos. It’s not cheap, but we think it’s worth it. BUY IT: From £329. Nespresso online (www.nespresso.com); John Lewis Cardiff (www.johnlewis.com)
Living The High Knife
Tamahagane San Tsubame Chef ’s Starter Knife Set Instead of looking like a gleaming, ceremonial suit of armour these set of knives looks like they’ve spent a few years in the thick of it, being battered from pillar to post. Yet it all adds to the appeal of these beautiful creations that ooze rugged charm and stylish appearance. Consisting of an 18cm Chef ’s Knife, 12cm Utility Knife and 9cm Paring Knife they perform as good as they look, feeling comfortable in the hand and honed to such a precise finish using the same techniques as Samurai swordsmithing that they make light work of even the toughest culinary tasks. If you’re serious about having the very best in your block then you need look no further than these Japanese pieces of art. BUY IT: £279.95 from (www.kitchenknives.co.uk)
Staying sharp
Kitchen IQ Diamond Deluxe Edge Grip 2-Stage Knife Sharpener Ever tried carving the turkey with a knife that’s blunt? You’d be amazed the difference sharpening makes. This refined little tool really is a great time saver. Most important is the safety aspect, with both the soft rubber grip and rubber feet ensuring there’s minimal movement but above all sturdy control when you’re handling both straight and serrated knives in such close proximity. You can confidently use Kitchen IQ’s two-step system of coarse diamond rods to smooth and straighten, followed by the ceramic stones to bring your dulled knife edges back to brilliant life. BUY IT: From £9.99. Lakeland Cardiff/Swansea (www.lakeland.co.uk)
Warm and easy
Morphy Richards Soup Maker 501040 BF Some might say soup from a can in a pan is already easy enough. But, on those cold winter nights when little fuss and maximum warmth is of the highest priority, soup makers like this from Yorkshire veterans Morphy Richards are worth their weight in gold. Simply toss in a few chopped ingredients and hit the button to get either a chunky or smooth soup – it’s even easier to make cold smoothies too – as it cooks and blends your dinner. It’s also blessedly quick to clean in seconds while the simple stainless steel design means it’s aesthetically pleasing as well. Souper stuff! BUY IT: From £99.99. Curry’s Cardiff (www.currys.co.uk)
Festive oven fillers
Angela Gray’s Festive Recipes Following her books for winter, autumn, summer and, naturally, Welsh cheese, this collection of festive dishes is full of Angela’s trademark touches, with an emphasis on simplicity and the best ingredients for maximum satisfaction. As you’d expect from the founder of one Wales’ best cookery schools, all the techniques and instructions are well thought out and easy to follow, even on the more daunting recipes. And Angela’s charm comes through in her tips on how to reduce stress throughout the festive period clearly coming from experience. The 33 recipes, from the en vogue gin-soaked salmon to the luxurious Bûche de Noël (Yule log to the rest of us) should provide plenty to challenge your palette this Christmas. BUY IT: From £9.99. Waterstones Cardiff/Swansea/Newport (www.waterstones.com)
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Restaurant Reviews The Heathcock Hot on the heels of Tommy Heaney’s October launch, there was another exciting opening in Cardiff. Tom Watts-Jones and wife Sarah of Aberthin’s Hare and Hounds brought a taste of the Vale of Glamorgan to Llandaf village. Bringing with them an award-winning reputation, including a Michelin ‘Bib Gourmand’, they have transformed a previously unloved pub into a haven for refined Welsh grub. As a former employee at the BBC, I was familiar with the Heathcock; over recent years, it experienced several incarnations, never quite hitting the ‘right’ spot with customers. But the Vale incomers have hit the ground running, welcoming villagers to reclaim their ‘local’, with the added incentive to taste the fruits of contemporary Welsh cooking at its best. So out goes the lasagne, burgers and chips, for a seasonal feast from the Vale of Glamorgan. The decor too, has enjoyed an overhaul, giving the inn a taste of minimalist Welsh style, reminiscent of Kennixton farmhouse at St Fagans. A drink at the bar is a joy in itself, thanks to the array of ‘home-made’ gins and guest ales. I personally plumped for the Aberthin Damson Gin Fizz, but enjoyed a taste of my father’s IPA – a refreshing Thunderbolt from Llantrisant. The Hare and Hounds for me is a dream gastro-pub, and so I was delighted to see some familiar favourites on The Heathcock’s mid-week lunch menu. We kicked off with a snack that’s inspired by a H&H ‘classic’; the Crispy Pigs Head morsels were satisfyingly salty, and nicely balanced with capers, mustard and celeriac. And even if you’ve just popped in for a pint, you really must try the home-baked bread; a seriously fine sourdough, and sourdough focaccia, served with cultured butter. The braised rabbit leg pappardelle, that I devoured as a starter, would be my pick as a main forever, and was paired with a rich Domaine La Rouviole Syrah Grenache from France. Dad’s King Scallops were sublime, with a smoky bacon sauce cut with the tartness of a Granny Smith. The dense-flavoured venison main, for me, though good wasn’t quite at the same level of brilliance, but it still would give most Cardiff restaurants a run for its money. I really should have gone for the H&H classic Roast Torgelly Farm Lamb, mint sauce and confit potatoes; as my father cleared his plate, he declared it a triumph. The final flourish was the plum souffle; light and fluffy, it was a thing of beauty. I’m already enamoured with this city-outpost of the Hare and Hounds and I have no doubt it will become a new family favourite. But I’ll be keen to see how The Heathcock brings local tastes onto the plate and into the bar, and develops its own identity. The major draw to Aberthin is a respect for locality; with all the produce that we now have in Cardiff, from microbreweries to forraged salads, I am certain the same can be done in the capital city of Wales. The Heathcock, 58-60 Bridge Street, Llandaf, Cardiff CF5 2EN; Tel: 029 2115 2290
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Y Dosbarth / The Classroom, Cardiff On a recent trip to Cardiff from Caernarfon in North Wales, I diverted from my usual go-to chain restaurant lunch spot, to visit The Classroom on Dumballs Road. This well-regarded hot-spot on the top floor of Cardiff and Vale College, is a stone’s throw away from the central station. The unlikely location for a dining destination was a timely lesson in opening the mind.
sherry jus. The Classroom’s emphasis on seasonal produce was most evident with this dish, as instead of potatoes, it was presented with a tasty pumpkin fondant, and finished off with a nutty pumpkin purée. To complement the dish, I opted for the house Merlot: rich in complexity to parallel the full-flavoured chicken.
Much to my surprise, after whizzing up the lift, I found an elegant, contemporary space. Through the panoramic windows, I took in the stunning cityscape, all the way from Caerphilly Mountain and the Principality Stadium, to Penarth Head and Cardiff Bay. Usually abuzz with hospitality students, I savoured the peaceful half-term lull, and noted the high quality of the service that is a constant all year round.
For dessert, I went straight for the pear frangipane tart, which is a favourite with the family in Caernarfon. I loved the raspberry purée and the light pistachio ice cream, which helped to lift the slightly dense pastry tart. But it couldn’t quite compete with my mother’s lighter version and melt in the mouth pear and frangipane. Another lesson learnt for me; sometimes, follow the road less travelled.
Whilst scanning the seasonal menu, the egg confit starter caught my eye, served with a crispy pork croquette. The rich, contrasting flavours were given an added depth with the earthy taste of crumbled black pudding. What lightened the dish for me - and made it a perfectly balanced starter - was a refreshing drizzle of apple vinaigrette.
And at £17.95 for a three course lunch, there will definitely be a next time. A visit to The Classroom is not to be missed, for visitors and savvy foodies alike. What you get for a great price is a contemporary mix of fine dining and a warm sense of familiarity. But ultimately, The Classroom offers a brand new perspective on a promising Welsh capital food scene.
For the main, I opted for the chicken supreme: deliciously moist and tender, it was paired with an intriguing combination of flavours. This ranged from the delicate, soft button onions to a sharper
Y Dosbarth / The Classroom, CAVC City Centre Campus, Dumballs Rd, Cardiff, CF10 5FE. Tel.: 029 2025 0377. E-mail: theclassroom@cavc.ac.uk
Glan yr Afon / Riverside, Pennal The village of Pennal, near Machynlleth is most famous for being home to Owain Glyndŵr - the last native Prince of Wales. The ‘Pennal letter’ of 1406, that he wrote as a ‘call to arms’ draws visitors from afar. But for locals and those ‘in the know’ in Mid-Wales, the star attraction is the food at Glan yr Afon. Following autumn’s Cardiff Half Marathon, it was the perfect dining destination, as I drove home for a well-earned Sunday evening feast. Located at the heart of the village, on the banks of the river Dyfi, Glan yr Afon is a cosy, family-friendly retreat. It is run by local food heroes, Glyn Davies and Corina Owen-Davies, formerly of Portmeirion and the Penhelig Arms. Since they arrived in 2010, they’ve brought their high standards and a keen eye for detail to this charming 16th Century inn. A celebratory ‘clink’ of Prosecco kicked off our Sunday evening supper, and whilst perusing the autumn menu I admired the restaurant’s simple, timeless Welsh style. Some prominent names are represented on the walls, from Kyffin Williams to Pennal artist Ian Phillips, adding colour to the natural wood and slate-centred decor. The array of starters whet the appetite, with the emphasis on classic ‘comfort food’. My husband’s pan-fried garlic mushrooms delivered on all counts, whilst my chicken liver pate – with fruity home-made chutney – hit the spot. The mains, again, were a hearty bunch, offering fine
twists on gastro pub fare. But being a Welsh Hill Sheep farmer, there was only one choice for my husband, as he went straight for the Welsh Lamb steak – served medium-rare. Tender and sweet, and just the right shade of pink, it was a masterful affair; nicely balanced with red cabbage and potato dauphinoise, along with a rich, aromatic red wine sauce. Also craving meat, following my half-marathon feat, I plumped for the succulent 10oz steak, with home-made chips, and a classic peppercorn sauce. As one would expect, the meat was local – from Aberdyfi - which adds to Glan yr Afon’s strong sense of place. Believe it or not, there was still some room for dessert, and once more the kitchen did not disappoint. A crisp crème brulee was full of flavour and flair, but most triumphant was my husband’s sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream. Later, whilst savouring a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon at the bar, we got chatting to one of the locals, Hugh Jones. Recently retired as the Queen’s chef for over 30 years, he was full of praise for Glyn and Corina’s ‘winning formula’. Hearty dishes of the highest order and a ‘royal’ seal of approval; a warm welcome awaits all to ‘The Riverside’, including ghosts of princes past. Glan yr Afon / Riverside; Pennal, Machynlleth, Powys SY20 9DW; Tel: 01654 791285
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Sushi Life I rarely turn to Trip Advisor for tips, as the views expressed are often polar opposites. But on occasion it lends a frame of reference, especially with restaurants that consistently hit the mark. Sushi Life, on Wellfield Road, is a case in point – it’s been at number one in the ‘moderately priced Cardiff restaurants’ category for what feels like an age. So, over a year after it opened in April 2017, I got round to booking a table - only to wait another fortnight, due to the high demand. Put simply, it was worth the wait! What I found, to my delight, was a buzzy, chatter-filled space, with some of the most impressive, fresh-tasting dishes in Wales. Although no expert on Cardiff sushi, I still pine for the peppered tuna at the turn-ofthe-millenium hotspot Zushi, and quite frankly I’m ashamed that it’s taken me this long to discover this Penylan-based treasure. It’s the brainchild of Chef Cornel Chiriac from Moldova, who runs it with his artist wife Maria. To add to the multi-cultural hot-pot, he originally trained in the art of sushi in Denmark, before landing at Yakitori, Mermaid Quay, in 2014. Well thank goodness say I; Cardiff is definitely all the richer for Sushi Life. It’s the perfect introduction to high quality sushi and sashimi, along with heartwarming noodle dishes. Forget the zushi-train experience (as plates whizz by you via conveyor-
belt); this is a far more refined affair, that includes a wine menu with an international flair. Expecting salt-overload, the German Muscadet was a tad sweet for my taste; perfectly suited to the food, however, was the ripe gooseberry flavours of the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Our Maki Roll starters were presented on a traditional wooden plate, and were almost too pretty to eat. But the Chicken Teriaki rice morsels were gobbled with glee, with the cucumber and avocado lending a satisfying crunch, and added zest. My sisters and I all plumped for exactly the same main - a bowl of the rich Beef Udon Noodles. It put all local chain-noodlejoints to shame, thanks to the freshness of the thick rice noodles, topped with an umami-rich crispy onion garnish. I was far too full for dessert, but did plump for the Plum Sake wine – what an elegant ending to an evening of revelations. I was back the next day for the mango-and strawberry-topped Prawn Tempura Maki take-away; what can I say? It really blew me away. Healthy and hearty, unpretentious, yet arty. I now happily subscribe to the Sushi Life way of life! Sushi Life, The Globe Centre, 5, Wellfield Rd, Cardiff CF24 3PE; Tel: 02920 459703
Coast, Saundersfoot West is best for a feast from the east, and an evening of seafood delights. It’s just over a year since Thomas Hine took the helm at one of Wales’ most celebrated restaurants. The former AA Wales Restaurant of the Year (2015-16) was an instant hit when it opened under Chef Will Holland. His departure, last year, from Pembrokeshire drew gasps from foodies, near and far. It is therefore a relief to report that my visit to the beach restaurant was most definitely a success. On an early autumn eve the sterling fish-based menu had me howling at the Harvest moon. Indeed, the Cornish chef (Padstow-born and raised) brings a passion for seafood that is most welcome here in Wales. And his interest in Far Eastern flavours refreshes the taste-buds even further. I arrived early enough to savour a stunning Welsh sunset, with views that stretched from Monkstone Point to northern Gower. And even within the modern space, there’s no escape from Carmarthen Bay, as local oil seascapes by Vyvyan W. Davies draw you in further to the wild west drama. A mackerel ceviche appetizer, however, was the perfect reminder that the star of this show is the food. The sour burst of citrus from the kimchi and coriander kicked my saliva glands into gear. The starter that followed was a contemporary take on a comforting seafood classic. The creamy crab ‘cocktail’ was very nicely balanced with a radish and pink grapefruit salad. A crisp Picpoul de Pinet was the perfect white wine opener, whilst a heftier Californian Chardonnay, was just the ticket for the more robust -
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and ‘meaty’– main course. The moreish monkfish dish was paired with light Pan-Asian flavours, including pak choi, tomato, raita and satay sauce. It was no wonder to discover that during a three-year stint with chefpresenter Rick Stein, Hines helped develop recipes for his tv series Eastern Odyssey. He left Padstow to develop a more classical style under Michael Caines at Lympstone Manor. But at Coast, Thomas Hine has been given free reign to ‘be himself ’ and to let the flavours of Cornish and Welsh produce shine. It’s a treat to experience his vision at Coast – which also includes meat and vegetarian dishes. Indeed, most of the vegetables are hand-picked from the garden at sister-restaurant The Grove, near Narberth. And with a Scottish sous-chef assisting Hine to boot, you’ll find a Celtic feast awaits you at Saundersfoot. So make a bee-line over winter to Pembrokeshire, for a trip to the beach to remember. Coast, Coppet Hall Beach Centre, Saundersfoot SA69 9AJ; Tel: 01834 810800
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Tŷ Castell, Caernarfon A boutique hotel within ancient castle walls, with a restaurant-bar offering artisan gin and Welsh tapas? Yes please! Open less than a year, Tŷ Castell (Castle House) has created quite a stir, and plays a role in the recent revival of the World Heritage town of Caernarfon. It’s the brainchild of Roland Evans and Gareth Fôn Jones, who – many moons ago - admired the building over a pint of Wrexham Lager. Gareth dreamed of turning the council office building into a wine bar for ‘Cofi Town’; needless to say, in 2017, he and Roland went much further. Located a stone’s throw from Edward I’s 13th Century fortress, Tŷ Castell was originally home to the castle’s constable. Later registered as a wine cellar, it was also a grocer’s shop, but lay dormant for decades, until fate – and Roland and Gareth - stepped in. During the extensive renovations they discovered many historical details that play a role in the striking old-meets-new Welsh decor. Behind the American rosewood bar (slate-ship ballast that returned from the New World to Caernarfon harbour) there’s an array of bottles of North Wales gin, that are very in right now. A favourite is Blue Slate from Dinorwig, with its burst of coriander seed aromas. Also popular is Aber Falls from Abergwyngregyn, that comes in marmalade, rhubarb and ginger or parma violet flavours. And for the craft ale crowd, there’s a very fine selection from local brewery Bragdy Lleu in Dyffryn Nantlle, named after various heroes and villains from the Mabinogi (think Lord of the Rings meets Game of Thrones, but much, much older). Indeed, the theme continues to the hotel upstairs, and the 4 luxurious en-suite rooms. Again, all are named after local Mabinogi characters, whilst the comfy beds are covered in cool Caernarfon tapestries. The buzzy restaurant downstairs is a casual affair, yet make sure to book a table. It’s a popular venue with the after-work crowd, and the fab Welsh tapas is not to be missed. The menu was a work in progress for a while, but chef Robbie Worgan has struck a sweet spot between keeping visitors and hungry locals happy. The Welsh lamb crispy rolls with Teriyaki sauce was a knock-out dish – a true melt-in-the mouth affair. Also a must are the laverbread risotto croquettes - a salty ‘Cofi’ twist on arancini balls. As for the a la carte menu, I’ll be returning for the crab linguine, and the perennially popular sirloin steak and pepper sauce. My recent visit to the area took me to the legendary peak of Yr Wyddfa, and Tŷ Castell certainly added to the drama. There, heroes and villains from the distant past mix with a contemporary Caernarfon crowd. It’s a dream come true, and a cool, modern twist to a legendary Welsh saga. Tŷ Castell, 18 High Street, Caernarfon, Gwynedd LL55 1RN; Tel: 01286 674937
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Holm House Hotel It’s fitting that we’ve been invited to Penarth’s Holm House Hotel just as the latest winter snap begins to dig its teeth in. With views over the Bristol Channel the complex is clearly a hit in summer, but even without the view there’s a lot to be admired about the boutique hotel’s century-old surroundings, with a warm appeal in no small part to the designer fireplace that emits its glow and balminess over the spacious eating area. Boasting a new a la carte menu that champions locally sourced ingredients as well as the refined skills of the chefs looking to impress both visually and gastronomically, the ever impressive Welsh culinary industry has another triumph on its hands. A cursory glance of the menu reveals a thorough understanding of timeless cuisine with a fervent desire to excite and evolve British staples to new heights. The starter of expertly hewn duck and pheasant roulade is a forthright example, with three sublimely presented slices of game wrapped in ham and topped with a dainty quail’s egg. The addition of fresh blackberries – whether or not they’re taken from bushes just yards from Holm House wasn’t confirmed – with a luscious fig jam makes for an array of distinct colour, texture and taste, while across the table braised artichoke, lightly seared goats cheese and a smidge of truffle are enveloped by an opulent watercress veloute. The main courses of duck and salmon are more familiar in nature but don’t skimp on clever touches, with the fish’s beautifully seasoned pistachio crust in particular making for prolonged satisfaction. The delightful orange flavoured duck breast and bundle of joy that is the cabbage-wrapped duck confit are both executed flawlessly. Attention to detail, be it simply seasoned and buttered vegetables, moreish roast potatoes and intensely rich jus, underline that getting the foundations perfected are the keys to success. Holm House still has a few kinks to work out, for example you’ll struggle if you’re a vegetarian with only one option per course, while the pistachio cream that forms part of an intricate dessert alongside concentrated blueberry sorbet, light dacquoise and mini meringues may be a touch overpowering for some. Yet when the chef is capable of a faultless honeycomb soufflé with the most sublimely fragrant lavender ice cream it’s clear that plaudits and satisfied diners will be leaving Holm House in their droves. Holm House Hotel, Marine Parade, Penarth CF64 3BG. Tel: 029 2070 6029 www.holmhousehotel.com
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Pysgoty, Aberystwyth Pysgoty, Aberystwyth Bwytai Cymru is a new Welsh-language book by Lowri Haf Cooke exploring fifty special eateries in Wales. ‘Pysgoty’ is a unique coastal gem on Aberystwyth’s South Beach, one that is utterly embedded in its locality. Housed in a former public convenience, it is the extraordinary vision of a local couple, Craig and Rhiannon Edwards, working alongside chef Pawel Banaszynski. Unsurprisingly given its name, fish and seafood from Cardigan Bay dominate the menu, with shark and whiting featuring occasionally alongside the more usual favourites such as lobster and salmon. All served with exceptional flair and imagination.
Mae wastad yn bleser darganfod bwyty bendigedig, un sy’n perthyn yn llwyr i’w fro. Ond pan fo lleoliad y bwyty hwnnw gan milltir o’ch cartref, daw teimladau annisgwyl i chwarae’u rhan, gan gynnwys eiddigedd pur! Dyna’n bendant a brofais innau pan gamais dros drothwy Pysgoty ar bnawn chwilboeth o Orffennaf yn 2015. R’on i eisoes wedi cael ar ddeall gan gyfeillion yn Aberystwyth fod ffenomenon ar waith ger Traeth y De. Ces fy nghyfeirio at leoliad y cyn-gyfleusterau cyhoeddus, oedd bellach yn fwyty cyfoes, poblogaidd. Wedi cinio rhagorol a phwdin arallfydol, doedd dim amdani ond neidio’n syth i’r môr. Ar bob ymweliad ag Aber ers hynny rwy’n neilltuo amser i bicio i Pysgoty, gan dristáu nad nad ydw i’n byw yn nes, bob tro. Beth yn union sydd mor arbennig am fwyty bach fel Pysgoty? Mae’r ffaith nad oes unman arall tebyg yng Nghymru yn atyniad mawr. Mae’n ffrwyth dychymyg dau o’r ardal a synhwyrodd fwlch yn y farchnad, ac oedd yn fodlon chwyldroi eu bywydau er ei fwyn. Roedden nhw hefyd am greu rhywbeth a fyddai’n bendant at eu dant, gan resymu y byddai eraill siŵr o deimlo’r un fath. Diolch i’r nefoedd am y fath hyder a’r fath agwedd fentrus. Ond teg dweud i brofiadau’r ddau – wrth eu gwaith ac yn y gymuned – gyfrannu tipyn cyn hynny at eu penderfyniad i ‘fynd amdani’. Derbyn hyfforddiant ym maes coginio yr oedd Rhiannon Edwards o Flaen-plwyf, a thechnoleg gwybodaeth oedd byd Craig, ei gwr, o Benrhyncoch. Cafodd hithau ei chyfareddu yn y gegin yn blentyn yng nghwmni’i Mam-gu Penparcau, oedd yn bobydd o fri. Ei chyflwyniad i fyd gwaith oedd golchi’r llestri yng ngwesty’r Queen’s, a leolid ar ben pella’r prom. Derbyniodd hyfforddiant pellach yn y Conrah a’r Harbourmaster, cyn mynd ati i reoli cegin Gwesty Cymru. Cafodd hefyd brofiad gwaith ym mwyty Tyddyn Llan ger Corwen, lle cynhaliodd Craig a hithau eu brecwast priodas – tipyn o newid o fan cyfarfod y ddau yng nghlwb nos Pier Pressure.
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Dôi Craig, ar y llaw arall, o deulu a chanddo brofiad busnes, yn rhedeg caffi, parc gwyliau a thafarn yn Nhal-y-bont a Phontarfyrnach. Ond wedi blynyddoedd o deithio’n ddyddiol o Aber i Fachynlleth, penderfynodd arallgyfeirio’n llwyr. Gwelodd ei gyfle i gael ei ailhyfforddi pan aeth siop bysgod Jonah’s yn Aber ar werth, gan ddilyn cwrs ym marchnad fawr Billingstone yn Llundain. Tua’r un adeg cynigiodd y ddau syniad ar gyfer Traeth y De, pan aeth cwt yr hen doiledau i dendr. Rhyfeddodd y ddau pan dderbyniwyd eu syniad am fwyty pysgod a fyddai’n chwa o awyr iach yn y dre. Un o gyd-weithwyr Rhiannon yng nghegin Gwesty Cymru oedd Pawel Banaszynski, cogydd disglair o dre Opatówek yng Ngwlad Pwyl. Rhannodd Rhiannon eu gweledigaeth ag ef, ac aeth y ddau ati i hel syniadau; ymhen dim, roedden nhw wedi llunio eu bwydlen gyntaf. Yn ganolog i’r weledigaeth y mae pysgod a bwyd môr Ceredigion, ac enghraifft berffaith o hynny yw’r bisque. Dyma gawl pysgod cyfoethog a weinir â samffir, a bara o gaffi lleol Medina – dewis perffaith pan fo’r gwynt yn hyrddio’n wyllt tu fas. Swnio’n syml? Wel, ydy a nac ydy; mae nifer o’r Cymry’n orddibynnol ar gig, gan olygu bod seigiau pysgod yn ddigon i ddychryn ambell un. Cymerwch y ceviche a’i flas leimsur, saig pysgod ‘amrwd’ sy’n deillio o Beriw, a ddaeth yn gynyddol ffasiynol dros y blynyddoedd diwethaf yn Llundain, a thu hwnt. Dysgodd aelodau tîm Pysgoty fod y saig yn apelio’n well o dan yr enw ‘eog wedi’i gochi â sitrws’; bob tro y caiff ei hysbysebu ar y fwydlen mae’n profi’n llwyddiant mawr. Hefyd, gyda’r archfarchnad yn teyrnasu, ry’n ni gwsmeriaid wedi arfer prynu pysgod ffres o bob math trwy gydol y flwyddyn, tra bo Pysgoty – a siop bysgod Jonah’s – yn cynnig y pysgod yn eu tymor. Golyga hynny, ym misoedd Ionawr a Chwefror, mae penwaig (herring) sy’n arwain y fwydlen, tra bo mecryll ar eu hanterth ganol haf. Cenhadaeth y tîm yw ceisio arwain, ac ailaddysgu a datblygu chwaeth newydd ar gyfer pysgod sy’n gynhenid i’r fro. Ac ymateb yn syn i ofynion cogyddion Pysgoty wnaeth sawl pysgotwr lleol yn wreiddiol. Roedd Rhiannon a Pawel ar ben eu digon bob tro y clywid am helfa ‘anghyffredin’, fel siarc neu wyniad (whiting) neu lysywen fôr – pur anaml yr oedd galw amdanynt cyn sefydlu Pysgoty. Mae enwau o’r fath i’w gweld yn achlysyrol ar fwrdd du y bwyty, ynghyd â chimwch a sushi, a Spaghetti Vongole blas cocos Bae Ceredigion. Ond mae ‘na ffefrynnau, ac yn saethu’n syth i’r brig y mae’r cyrri maelgi blas Thai a gaiff ei weini gyda reis blas almwn ac – yn ddelfrydol – glasied oer o Muscadet. Mae’n ddewis amhosib wedi hynny rhwng y felysgybolfa boblogaidd a phwdin sy’n unigryw i Pysgoty. Mam Rhiannon yw pensaer y streusel, sef cacen ysgafn ac arni ‘friwsion’ blas riwbob, afal neu fwyar a crème anglaise. Does dim byd i’w gymharu â’r pleser o giniawa yn Pysgoty, ac mae hynny i’w weld yn glir ar wynebau pawb. Dim ond lle i un ar bymtheg sydd yn y bwyty ei hun – gan gynnwys pedwar wrth y bar – a’r hyn sy’n wych yw’r môr o Gymraeg a glywir yno ar bob ymweliad. Daw pawb yn eu tro i dalu teyrnged i Pawel, gyda diolch, a ffarwél â gwên lydan. Dyna’r diolch gorau posib i weithiwr yn y gegin wrth wynebu diwrnod arall yn cenhadu ar Draeth y De.
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the magnificent 7 With hundreds of new Welsh food and drink businesses starting each year, the option of eating produce that’s been made in Wales has never been more bountiful, or more convenient. Here, Andy Richardson, Chair of the Wales Food and Drink Wales Industry Board, looks at some of the leading Welsh Food and Drink brands that could be on your Christmas shopping list this year
Pant Ysgawn Organic Goats Cheese No Christmas feast is complete without cheese. And we are totally spoilt for choice when it comes to selecting a Welsh cheese, from crumbly Caerphilly to punchy Red Devil, there’s a plethora to choose from. My pick for this Christmas is Pant Ysgawn Organic Goats Cheese, which is made in Blaenavon by award-winning food maker Tony Craske. It’s a good staple to keep in the fridge as it’s very mild so suitable for most pallets.
Siwgr a Sbeis Mince Pies Is it even Christmas if you don’t eat a mince pie? Probably not. While I’m sure many people will admirably be making their own mincemeat, for those looking for a good quality, ready-to-eat option, take a look at the Siwgr a Sbeis website. The Llanrwst based bakery specialises in traditional Welsh baking including a number of festive treats like their luxury Christmas Cake and Tropical Christmas Slab. The bakery’s mince pies are available in two options, traditional and walnut crumble, the latter of which won a Great Taste Award in 2015.
Radnor Preserves And of course, the perfect cheese needs the perfect accompaniment. Enter Radnor Preserves. A specialist manufacturer of exquisite preserves with an eclectic offering including the multi award-winning Smoky Campfire Marmalade, which won Double Gold at the World Marmalade Awards in 2015. Radnor Preserves’ chutneys, jellies and marmalades can be bought online via the website. Pick up the Roasted Nectarine Chutney which compliments dolcelatte and cured meats, or the Christmas Chutney which is perfect with cold turkey, nut roasts and cheese.
Nom Nom Chocolate If you haven’t yet sampled one of the many delicious Nom Nom bars, this is your reminder to do so! The range is spectacular with 23 (and growing) flavours – from peanut butter to salted almonds; cardamom and raspberry to pink pepper and a whole host of other wacky and wonderful flavours. With the huge variety of flavours on offer, a few bars would make a lovely present for someone this Christmas or just a nice treat to have with a coffee at the end of the night.
Cradoc’s Savoury Biscuits The finishing touch to any stellar cheese board is the humble cracker and as suppliers to major retailers, Cradoc’s know a thing or two about baking the perfect cracker. While the product range is small the flavour range is mighty, from Vegetable Crackers with Spinach and Celery Seed to Golden Baked Cocktail Biscuits with Pear & Earl Grey Tea. Their website details Welsh retailers where you can stock up on the whole range.
Neil Powell Master Butchers’ Turkeys Whether you’re a turkey fan or not, there is no denying that Monmouthshire butcher, Neil Powell Master Butchers, has the monopoly on quality turkeys. Their turkeys are reared by the Davies family in Monmouthshire where they forage naturally in the fields from the age of six weeks old. But if you’re trying something new this Christmas, the butchers will also be able to sort you out with a quality piece of beef, or you could try duck or goose reared on the Williams’ farm in the Wye Valley. Visit Neil Powell Master Butchers in Abergavenny, Hereford, Monmouth, Ewyas Harold or Chepstow.
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Aber Falls Distillery Spirits A well-stocked drinks cabinet is essential if you’re hosting various guests over the holidays. With this in mind it’s definitely worth a trip to Aber Falls Distillery, or just to the website if you can’t make it to Gwynedd, for a tour of the site. Highlights from their catalogue of boozy delights include Rhubarb and Ginger Pink Gin, Orange and Marmalade Gin, Violet Liquor and Salted Toffee Liquor. Aber Falls’ liquor range is inspired by flavours found in the Welsh countryside, while the gin collection takes inspiration from Wales’ botanical landscape.
Looking to eat in a top Thai restaurant tonight? No need, just stay at home! All the best dishes are available from us and are ready in minutes and you wont get better in a restaurant ! Our curry lovers giftset is now availble too Please see our website for details
All made in Wales www.thecoconutkitchen.co.uk
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News
Taste something new! Meryl Cubley rounds up all that’s new in Welsh food, brews and booze
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This gin’s a winner
Fancy a brew?
Taking the gin-craze to new heights, Aber Falls Distillery (www.aberfallsdistillery.com) recently climbed the summit of Snowdon, to distil a bottle of gin made with botanicals foraged from the mountain. The aptly-named Summit Gin: the Mountaineers Cut, was produced in a mini one-litre copper pot still and included botanicals such as sloe berries and heather. The bottle will now be auctioned in aid of Wales Air Ambulance, who are solely reliant on charitable donations in order to raise the £6.5 million a year required to keep its helicopters in the air. Joining the mission for excellence in Welsh gin production – and continuing the life-saving work of the WAA – was the 2018 winner of the Morning Advertiser’s Bartender of the Year Award, Alex Mills, of Cardiff ’s Lab 22. Mills created a special summit serve called A’r ben y brig to warm up hikers on the day. Based in Abergwyngregyn, Aber Falls is set to release its first whisky in 2020, following on from their Welsh Dry Gin and a range of flavoured gins and gin-based liqueurs. The team are also constructing a permanent visitor centre complete with restaurant and music performance space at the distillery. Welsh and proud, Aber Falls will be the first whisky distillery in North Wales in more than 100 years; and the brand has achieved five prestigious medals at this year’s San Francisco World Spirits Competition – one of the spirits industry’s most respected events.
“When it rains we pour.” So say the team behind the iconic Welsh Brew brand - and why not indeed? The family owned business established nearly 30 years ago has launched a number of exciting new products onto the market. Look on the shelves of any of the Welsh supermarkets or your local deli, chances are you’ll have seen the uniquely bi-lingual and increasingly expanding Welsh Brew range. Alongside the original blend Welsh Brew (www.welshbrewtea.co.uk) also offer a Decaf which is great for those who fancy a cuppa before bedtime. Then there’s the Gold Premium Blend. Like their popular standard blend, but with a little more oomph! A tea for special occasions. And they do filter coffee too - exceptionally smooth in flavour and available in varying strengths. In addition to all this, there’s the speciality teas; Murroughs Welsh Tea Birds and Welsh Brew Infusions; bags packed full of indulgent and luxurious blends of teas and fruits and spices and flowers (yes, flowers!), sourced from the four corners of the globe. To the future they’re looking at the health giving properties of tea. In a new partnership with Cardiff University’s School of Pharmacy, they want to enhance tea by combining it with Welsh honey and medicinal plants identified by the university’s award winning Pharmabees project. Honey has been used for thousands of years to treat conditions including the common cold. The plan is to create a unique new brew which captures all that is good about our country to support the well being of Wales and beyond. Exciting times in the world of tea await!
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News
Sweet smell of success
Battle for the Dragon
Shane Jones started keeping bees aged twelve, with one small beehive in the back garden. Thirty years on and the bees remain happily in the same spot today. Steadily building up the hive numbers and honey production; what started as a cottage industry has now blossomed into the Bee Welsh Honey Company, launched in July this year at the Royal Welsh Show. Based at the heart of mid Wales, in Builth Wells, Bee Welsh Honey enjoys the rich array of floral flavours that start with the first spring blooms, through to the late autumn heather found across the moors. Frequently winning best-in-show at the Royal Welsh; 2018 saw Shane’s success continue; with wins in both July – and in October – when he won the heather honey class at the national. Most important to this new brand, is the continuation of a high-quality product, which wouldn’t happen without Shane’s commitment to keeping his hard working bees happy throughout the summer months. Bee Welsh Honey only extracts honey via the cold extraction process, to preserve all of nature’s pure goodness. The honey is harvested, extracted, and bottled by hand with Shane’s passion and love, as was his very first jar of this liquid gold.
Chefs from Wales will be putting their culinary skills to the test when they compete in the Battle for the Dragon contest at the Welsh International Culinary Championships in February, 2019. The team will be represented by Celtic Manor Resort, led by executive head chef Michael Bates. The championships will be held at Grŵp Llandrillo Menai, Rhos-on-Sea from February 26-28 and include the National and Junior Chef of Wales final. Wales will be first into the kitchen on February 26, cooking a three-course menu for 90 people under the supervision of a panel of international chef judges. Fine dining fans will get a chance to have front row seats and sample the dishes served up by the international chefs by booking their place at one or all three of the lunches, which cost £26 each. Tickets from Vicky Watkins at the CAW office@walesculinaryassociation.com
The Big Apple
Get your skills up to scratch Ever fancied being a chef yourself? Cambrian Training (www.cambriantraining.com) offers an exciting new apprenticeship course that will set you up for a rewarding career in the hospitality industry. You’ll gain industry-recognised qualifications, heaps of hands-on and in-depth training with all the important behind-the-scenes detail like food hygiene and health and safety. Or maybe you’re running a business in the sector? Why not work with Cambrian Training to help your team upskill and train the next generation of brilliant Welsh chefs? Discover ways to motivate and inspire your team, and watch your business grow! Find out more at www.cambriantraining.com
Cider-making is an honest mix of craft and graft. A regular winner at The Great Taste Awards, Apple County are masters of their art. Using the freshest apples picked straight from the orchard, every single harvest is different and Apple County ciders reflect this. Apple County produce single varietal ciders with style. Seasonal offerings include a range of summery fruit ciders and mulled cider for the colder festive months. Their range of sparkling bottled ciders, such as The Great Taste 3 star winning Dabinett, are all distinguished and fruity in character, each apple bringing out a unique flavour and made with 100% pure juice. They are the perfect all year round thirst quencher. Authentic, artisan fruit ciders, available in pure blackcurrant, rhubarb or raspberry, are a natural transition. With exceptional balance, combining all the great tastes of cider with the natural tart flavours of fruit they’re a drier and uniquely sophisticated style of fruit cider. Apple County also produce a more ‘traditional’ cider. Still and cloudy, almost wine like, they are the perfect festival drink with that ‘farm gate’ appeal. Apple County’s gourmet spice infused mulled apple cider is a delicious heart-warming drink - the perfect antidote to when the nights close in. Cosy up with a fragrant mug full in front of the fire or add some good company and have your own little hearthside wassail. www.applecountycider.co.uk
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News
Alys is back!
Nice work with Trailhead Jerky
Award-winning patisserie chef Alys Evans will finally make her debut for Culinary Team Wales. The talented 20-year-old from Gilfach Goch, will be heading to Luxembourg with her Welsh teammates for the Culinary World Cup in November; following her recovery from a skiing accident. The accident threatened not just her involvement with the Welsh team, but also her job and prospects of representing the UK at WorldSkills Russia in August next year. “I was gutted,” said Alys, who won the VQ Learner of the Year (Intermediate) Award in 2017. “I thought I would be out of the Wales team, the WorldSkills UK squad and I would lose my job. It was horrendous but luckily it all just managed to be ok. “The Welsh squad were great and I have managed to catch up on all the missed practices. I just can’t wait to represent Wales at the Culinary World Cup. It’s really exciting as it will be my first time competing for Wales, which means everything to me. “I have worked really hard and moved job in order to improve my patisserie skills and become better at what I am doing. To finally be part of the Welsh team and be recognised will be amazing.” Culinary Team Wales will again be captained by Danny Burke, co-owner of Olive Tree Catering, Hawarden. His teammates are Jason Hughes of Chateau Rhianfa, Menai Bridge, Toby Beevers of PSL Purchasing Systems, Sergio Cinotti, who runs the award-winning Gemelli Restaurant in Newport and Alun Davies, former captain of the Combined Services and RAF culinary teams, based in Winchester. The hot kitchen menu includes a starter of scallops, with ceviche, compressed cucumber and chicken skin granola; and a main course of hay-smoked loin of Welsh Lamb with almond puree. Pudding is a white chocolate and lemon mousse with Welsh honey, raspberry sorbet, raspberry gel and mint.
Butchers Arwyn Morris and Ramos Vernys loved premium beef jerky snack products made by a Mid Wales company so much that they bought the business. The former work colleagues have big plans to take Trailhead Fine Foods (www.trailheadfinefoods. co.uk) to the next level and are basing production at the WMO centre in Welshpool, initially creating two new jobs. The company already has a growing list of online customers and they hope to continue to expand. The company is also negotiating a series of exciting partnership deals like supplying complementary packs of beef jerky to more than 2,000 marshals at the Dayinsure Wales Rally GB. Aberdyfi rally driver Tom Cave and co-driver James Morgan, from Hirwaun, also promoted the ‘Get Jerky’ brand on their Hyundai i20 R5 during the rally. Arwyn explains: “We will continue to make the same premium beef jerky products in exactly the same way, but we are also keen to develop an exciting range of new and different jerky products and flavours. Our aim is to increase exposure of the brand and to develop partnership relationships with wholesalers and distributors. Ramos and I believe in the product so much that we left good jobs with our previous employer to take Trailhead Fine Foods forward.”
House Rules Holm House Hotel, is now the proud owner of two AA Rosettes and ranked in the Top 50 Spa’s in Europe, with an impressive Four Bubbles in the Good Spa Guide, so it’s the perfect escape for a relaxing night or two. Better still, take advantage of their private dining facilities. If you have a special occasion to celebrate or need to entertain important guests or colleagues, then leave the work to them so you can concentrate on being host or hostess. The intimate Neal’s room can accommodate up to 16 guests and you’ll be treated to privacy, elegance, first class service and an exclusively designed menu for you and the occasion. Nothing to think about other than your enjoyment, conversation, and a superb dining experience. www.holmhousehotel.com
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News
Brewing up new designs Raglan based brewery, The Untapped Brewing Company (www.untappedbrew.com) has had their entire range redesigned – and will have a brand new website built in time for Christmas. Head brewer, Owen Davies, said, “We’ve been working with Lemontop Creative to refresh our branding and they’ve come up with some brilliant new designs that give our beer bottles and pub pump clips an exciting and vibrant new look. The beer, of course, is as excellent as ever!” The beers have continued to impress this year, with Untapped picking up 3 Great Taste awards, Welsh Cask champion from the industry organisation SIBA, and 2 Gold Champion beer of Wales awards from CAMRA. Owen continues: “The awards are a real boost, and we want to share our brilliant beers with as many fans as possible. That’s why we’ve also had a complete reboot of our website. There’s lots more on the ‘about us’ section now, as well as a more user friendly shop and a brand new trade page where businesses can get in touch direct with the brewing team.” The website goes live at the end of November, together with the launch of the new look, all in time for a very merry Untapped Christmas!
Coconut for Christmas? In the mood for some lip-smacking Thai? Ever found that you can’t quite get the balance between hot, sweet and sour right? Worry not, Cocount Kitchen have the answer. Based in Abersoch on the Llŷn Peninsula, the Coconut Kitchen team cook up a range of seriously authentic Thai pastes and sauces. Let’s face it, we all get a little bored of the turkey and the pud after a while at Christmas. So why not go Thai for a zingy, taste-tantalising change? Or if you’re looking for the gift with a difference the Thai Curry Lover Gift Set is ideal. It contains all four of their award-winning curry pastes. So you’re guaranteed a great tasting present for any Thai curry lover. The hardest thing will be choosing which to try first: Thai Green Curry, Thai Red Curry, Massaman or fiery Yellow. You don’t need a Thai Cookbook with these curry pastes as they are all restaurant quality and give you a true Thai Taste. The team plan to introduce catering packs for hospitality soon too! Find out more at: www.thecoconutkitchen.co.uk
Festive brews to get you in the mood The team at Monty’s Brewery (www.montysbrewery. co.uk) are feeling all festive with Christmas just around the corner. So they’ve created two real crackers of new brews for us to sup on these cold dark days and nights. Dark Secret (5.6%) is a lovely dark oatmeal stout. It’s a complex beer to make using a variety of different malts. It was winner of three Great Taste Gold Stars in both 2017 and 2018. This is what the 3 Star Judges had to say “A delicious oatmeal stout with chocolate and coffee on the nose that follows through on the palate, surprisingly fruity, with an expresso martini element, amazing!” It was the only gluten free product awarded 3 stars this year by the Guild of Fine Food, last year it won in the beer category, not a bad return! As well as the ever popular Ding Dong, Monty’s has pulled the stops out and produced a different sort of Christmas Ale this year, with a limited edition of Figgy Pud (5.5%). This beauty combines all the flavours and aromas you associate with the festive period. This deep chestnut coloured beer is full of rich fruity flavours, there’s cinnamon, mixed spices, orange and maple syrup, with a nice amount of sweetness to balance it all giving a warming feel at every sip. With a festive label depicting a Christmas pud it’s an ideal little stocking filler for the real lovers!
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Myfanwy Alexander Christmas is Coming…
‘A goose,’ Jennie remarked, ‘is a bird with a lot of structure.’ If you are fortunate enough to have a friend so steeped in tradition that she still uses a silver muffin warmer when serving afternoon tea, her views on seasonal poultry are worth hearing. (She was also the first person in Montgomeryshire to own an E Type Jaguar, but that’s another story.) What she meant, of course, is that there is not a lot of meat on a goose and hence our annual dilemma. My daughters could be described as Goose Girls. ‘We can’t eat turkey,’ they state, ‘because we’re not American. Goose with apple sauce is the Welsh way to celebrate Christmas.’ This cultural purism, however, ignores one of the glories of Christmas to all of us who have to provide meal after meal, day after day: the scraps. A goose is over and done with on Christmas Day whereas a turkey provides pickings for several days, giving the cooks of the family a well-earned break and few meals are as satisfying as cold turkey and bubble and squeak, enhanced by endless chutneys. If you made your own cranberry sauce, it often gets less attention than it deserved in the hurly-burly of Christmas lunch but livening up a fridge forage, it can properly be appreciated. My late father would approach Andrews Tŷ Cerrig, turkey farming neighbours in Meifod in the late spring, asking if an especially big bird could be bred for him. For Dad, taste mattered less than being able to heroically report his success in mastering the Turkeysaurus Rex. Some of those monster turkeys outlasted our collective enthusiasm. It was at this time that I developed my Rule of Seasonal Poultry Persistence, which uses a familiar song as a guide. Friends and family will be delighted with turkey variants up until the Fifth Day of Christmas. You will be pushing it if you get as far as Swimming Swans or Laying Geese but if you are still planning Turkey Consommé with Parsnip Crisps on the tenth day, it will not just be Lords who are A-Leaping but your guests.
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One way of avoiding the lack of grazing meat which follows from going for goose at Christmas is to cook a ham. My six daughters are serious fans of a homecooked ham and every year, I have a hammy chat with butcher Rikki Lloyd of Welshpool. (It’s never any hardship for me to chat with Mr Lloyd, my own nomination for Wales’ Best-Looking Butcher.) I am in the market for a ham the size of a primary school child, approximately Year Two, and Rikki does not disappoint. The only restriction on the ham is the size of the pan in which to boil it: it needs to be tall as well as wide. No faddish new recipes are tolerated by my family: it has to be baked with brown sugar, orange and cloves. If I manage to win the turkey/goose debate, I try to ensure that the turkey isn’t tasteless white flab. And I always try to buy local. One year, I went to our local pub (Cann Office, rightly described as iconic) to pick up a turkey from one of the regulars and during this sociable two-hour process, it snowed heavily. I managed the main road but our lane was impassable. At least the snowbound car was at ideal turkey storage temperature overnight and in the morning, it processed regally up the lane recumbent in a wheelbarrow. Last year, I ordered a turkey from a neighbour who was selling them dressed, which I always regard as a luxury, having spent, it seems, the best years of my youth ‘feathering’. When she went into labour unexpectedly, my first thought, of course, was for the welfare of mother and baby but my second thought was turkey-related. So December 23rd dawned with my turkey still alive and gobbling about Llangadfan whilst I was running about Mid Wales and the Marches like the proverbial headless chicken in search of his replacement. It turned into a heart-warming Christmas tale, with a beautiful new daughter for them and a delicious stand-in turkey for us but I won’t be cutting it so fine this year. Famous last words.
Hotel Restaurant Spa
Just fifteen minutes from Cardiff, nestled amongst the tree-lined streets of Penarth sits a lovingly restored 1920’s manor house. Behind it’s handsome façade lies a 4 star boutique hotel of residential elegance, boasting 12 individually styled bedrooms and suites with breath taking views across the Bristol Channel and to the islands of Flatholm and Steepholm. Enhanced by an award winning Spa and 1 AA Rosette Restaurant, coastal luxury doesn’t get better than Holm House.
www.holmhousehotel.co.uk | +44 (0) 2920 706029 reservations@holmhousehotel.co.uk Marine Parade, Penarth, Vale of Glamorgan, CF64 2BG
Fuel your passion. For delicious and nutritious recipes visit eatwelshbeef.com
Beef. It’s got to be Welsh.
