Celebrating great food and drink in Wales
Winter 2021
SAY CHEESE Fine Welsh cheeses
ON THE VINE Welsh wines making waves CARU CYMRU! Do you love Wales?
STARS ABOVE
Great Taste Award winners
THE FINAL COUNTDOWN
12 days of festive treats
PLUS FOOD AND DRINK REVIEWS, NEWS, COOKING TIPS AND RECIPES GALORE
Publisher’s Letter
A Happy New Year? By the time you read this, hopefully Omicran (a Greek letter I’m sure many of us had never heard of until recently) will be under control and we’ll all be looking to put 2021 behind us, hopeful that 2022 will be a bit more ‘normal’. But there’s no doubting that somethings will have changed for good. And in some cases, rightly so. Chief amongst them the realisation that buying great, local produce should not be considered a luxury, but routine. On so many levels it makes much more sense than buying mass-produced ‘stuff ’ of questionable integrity, often produced hundreds or even thousands of miles from Wales. Welsh produce has minimal road miles. Is more sustainably produced. Better Quality. Better welfare standards. Better food security. Better tasting. Better for us in almost every way.
From award-winning halloumi to charcuterie, from sustainably produced PGI beef, lamb and porc to some of the best fish and shellfish in the world, from wine to rum and whisky, from sour dough bread baked using Welsh flour to jams, conserves and honeys, we produce the finest incarnations it’s possible to buy. Hell, you can even get sauces and jams made from chillies grown in Pembrokeshire.
And it’s not as if our choice is limited. The Welsh food and drink scene has exploded in recent years.
Paul Mulligan
So make your New Year’s resolution to buy Welsh food and drink wherever possible. Eat and drink well, support local producers and communities and help protect our planet. That’s a pretty convincing argument.
Publisher
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Contents Features Love Story Satisfy your passion for Welsh fayre
Nice and Cheesy If it’s Winter, it’s time for a good cheese board
Gong Ho Celebrate Welsh Great Taste winners
Pining For Wine Welsh wine is making ground
Blas was a Blast BlasCymru/TasteWales review
Christmas Countdown 12 days of treats
Fishy Goings On Women making waves in the Welsh fishing community
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Regulars Staying Local Jon Gower revels in regional produce
Producer Profile Game On - We meet Pennant Valley Game
Sustainability Can eating meet ever be sustainable?
Hold the Front Page The latest news hot off the press
Restaurants A Green Star for Palé Hall
Recipes If you want to lose weight, look away now
Finger Lickin’ Treats Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds
All in a Stew Myfanwy gets her stew pot out
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©Marian Delyth
Jon Gower Provenance in sustenance The song of the yellowhammer, a gorgeous little bird which makes canary yellow seem a little dowdy is often rendered as “A little bit of bread and no cheese.” Hearing one recently made me think of the food my grandparents ate, which was almost exclusively bread, sometimes some cheese and then, two or three times a week some cawl, with all its inherent goodness. This last was made with vegetables they grew in the garden and this in the village of Pwll, near Llanelli, where its inhabitants were known locally as gwyr y bone because of their thrifty habit of not only not only eating cabbages but also polishing off the stalks as well. This basic, pretty much peasant fare didn’t do either of them any harm as they both lived well into their nineties. Now the bread was delivered in a van by Peter the Bread – which wasn’t the best nickname in the parish – from a bakery two miles away. Food may have changed an awful lot since then, with more choice and range but the older generation were eating locally and sustainably long before these became official watchwords. One of the additional joys of eating locally, as we’re all encouraged to do, is knowing who makes the food. I was talking to a friend one day about the fact that we have many fine bread makers in our Cardiff neighbourhood and he told me that one had started a micro-business literally in the house next door. Which is only a few hundred yards from my own front door so I gave the chap a ring to see if I could pop round. Tom, our very-local-baker apologised brightly, saying that when he’s baking he’s simply too busy to talk. Tom Parkinson comes from Bolton, or, as he playfully refers to it ‘from Warburton country.’ He makes the bread in a small room off of his kitchen, specialising in sourdough. He got the 120 year old starter from the One Mile Bakery where he took lessons, itself only a few streets away. On Saturdays he sets up his Sour Tom’s stall outside the Railway pub in Llandaff North. So I met him there, where he had arranged loaves,
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some foccaccia and dark browns slabs of ginger cake, which turned out to be not dissimilar in texture to sticky toffee pudding and deliciously so. He told me how he gets up at 3.30 in the morning to bake 30 loaves and up to seventy pastries such as chocolate babkas as well as various kinds of brioche. There is joy in creating something by yourself, he maintains, even though the hours are long, especially when you consider that he has a full time job as well, and in the winter it takes an hour and a half for his oven to warm up. As a customer there’s a lot of pleasure to be derived from knowing the person who makes the food we eat. My youngest daughter has an adult taste in food and very much favours things such as strong blue cheese. One of her favourites is Tysul Blue, a mild and nuanced cheese made in Llandysul by Mark Jones. He got involved with cheese after leaving school after ‘A’ levels, although his first job was nothing more complicated than cutting huge blocks of cheddar into smaller blocks. After being made redundant he started to learn more about dairy products whilst working for ther Carmarthenshire Cheese Company and, later on with Caws Cenarth. At the time he might not have imagined himself winning gold in the International Cheese Awards. He makes his batch of 100 kilos of cheese from 600 litres of local milk, sourced from the Llaeth Cymreig co-operative and his skill at harnessing old traditions to the modern marketplace has led to a plethora of prizes and, in turn, to his becoming a judge in the World Cheese Awards and the Great Taste Awards. So, Tom and Mark. Who complement each other as surely as bread and cheese. Knowing the makers is one of the additional benefits of eating locally. It embeds you more deeply in your community as you make friends with the makers, a simply delicious arrangement.
Milked in Wales - Made in Wales - 100% Welsh www. dragonwales.co.uk
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#LoveWalesLoveTaste #CaruCymruCaruBlas this St David’s Day
Before we know it, the festive season will have already been and gone and we’ll be ringing in 2022. The past couple of years have been difficult for obvious reasons, but that makes pausing for a moment to appreciate the rich culture of food and drink in Wales that bit more special. The new year will have only just got started by the time the 1st March rolls around - and that means the next big date in the Welsh food and drink calendar will be upon us: St David’s Day. The days and the weeks leading up to it are marked by a plethora of events and initiatives around the world, many of which use the opportunity to also celebrate our nation’s food and drink. Not least is the Welsh Government’s #LoveWalesLoveTaste#CaruCymruCaruBlas campaign, so let’s embrace the opportunity to shout about all that’s great in our country - from its gastronomical greatness to the perfect producers that work so hard to get it on our plates and in our glasses. After COP26, the importance of sustainability and buying local has perhaps never been more prevalent in the food and drink industry. The situation in Wales is no exception, but the Welsh people need not see this as a problem. Rather, this is a challenge for us all to overcome together through creative solutions. And it’s an opportunity that we’re well placed to seize - with many of our producers, ably supported by the Welsh Government, already pursuing sustainable strategies.
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As we explore all the following produce right on our own doorstep, one can rest assured that our small but proud country has more than enough food and drink to feed our bodies and minds. If there’s anything that the past few years has taught us it’s that we can overcome any obstacle by simply sticking together and working in unison as a community.
The natural phenomenon So what is it that makes Wales such a bountiful country when it comes to cultivating a rich culture of food and drink? Some might point to those living and working in rural areas adopting a way of life that intrinsically complements the surrounding rolling hills, clear waters and fertile fields. Others might emphasise the importance of the Gulf Stream and its effects on the waters along our west coast. The stream provides nutrient rich and warm currents, ensuring that the local climate is a temperate (if wet) one suited for growing grass and rearing livestock - with few extreme weather events. As a result, the surrounding marine environment is positively teeming with life, while along the coasts and further inland an abundance of minerals in lowlands and uplands creates a varied biodiversity. This variety makes perfect habitats and
breeding grounds for all manner of organisms, with unique micro-climates allowing nature to thrive. The Welsh people’s appreciation for these most fertile of surroundings has remained unwavering for time out of mind. Traditionally small scale and low intensity agriculture are coupled with high standards of animal welfare, with an emphasis on letting nature take its course. Less intervention means less invasion into the integral processes of both fauna and flora - something that has been passed down on countless farms which generation to generation of Welsh families have come to call home. It is a complex combination of all of these factors which lends itself to the relationship between Wales and producing good food and drink. Welsh farmers and producers are supported in their endeavours every step of the way by a government that understands and cares about these traditions.
A bountiful harvest While we touched on the suitability of the Welsh landscape for farming and agriculture earlier, this cannot be emphasised enough by the countless success stories this sector continues to have. Translating to ‘taste of the land’, Blas y Tir in Pembrokeshire is a tremendous example of a good and honest producer of lovingly grown vegetables - as is the Greedy Gardener in Llangefni and Mostyn Kitchen Garden in Holywell. If your day isn’t complete without an egg at breakfast, lunch, or dinnertime, Ochr Cefn Isa in Betws-y-Coed is undoubtedly worth your support. These free-range eggs come from a family farm on the Tir Ifan Estate, a National Trust location on the slopes of the Conwy Valley. If dutifully reared protected foods like beef and lamb are more your thing, then you can’t get much better than the taste and quality of produce from the Rhug Estate in Corwen. Having its own butchers shop just down the road from the farm itself lends these meats an unparalleled experience of freshness. And if you prefer your spice, the homegrown peppers and jarred condiments from Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm are well worth giving your tastebuds a tantalising workout.
the mainland in Conwy, Mermaid Seafoods is making its mark with the largest and freshest selection of fish and seafood in North Wales. Down the coast in Ceredigion one can find the likes of Cardigan Bay Fish and Catch of the Day at Fisherman’s Rest - while further south still lies a real gem in the form of Syren Shellfish in Pembrokeshire.
Some dairy delights With the famed Welsh rolling hills comes bountiful pastures for livestock to graze upon, meaning a plethora of dairy farms and products can be found across Wales. There are more traditional offerings of milk, cheese and butter: Blaenafon Cheddar Company in Pontypool; Calon Wen in Narberth; Castle Dairies in Caerphilly; Caws Cenarth Cheese in Boncath; Caws Rhyd y Delyn on Anglesey; Caws Teifi Cheese in Llandysul; Daioni Organic in Boncath; Dragon from South Caernarfon Creameries; Mead Farm Foods in Newport; Moose Maple Butter in Llanelli; Llaeth y Llan in Denbigh; and Totally Welsh Milk in Haverfordwest. Also worth a special mention is Colliers Cheese, which like many of the above cheese proponents champions their craft using entirely Welsh milk! But there is so much more to dairy - from Daffodil Foods in Pwllheli’s clotted cream, to copious scoops of ice cream (from the likes of Brooke’s Dairy in Chepstow, Lochmeyler in Haverfordwest, and Red Boat Ice Cream Parlour in Anglesey and North Wales), to The Fudge Foundry in Neyland. Regardless of what you’re after, our nation’s beloved cows never fail to put a smile on our faces.
Tankards and teacups It’s no secret that the Welsh are a hardworking breed, but with that comes an innate ability to enjoy our downtime just as much. Whether you’re out on the town and enjoying a natter with friends, or pausing to reflect at day’s end, we’re never happier than when we’ve got a thirst-quenching glass (or mug!) in our mitts. There are so many breweries around Wales that you should keep an eye out for the next time you’re in a pub - Anglesey Brewhouse from Llangefni, Brains from Cardiff, Felinfoel Brewery from Llanelli, Monty’s Brewery from Montgomery, St Davids Old Farmhouse Brewery from Haverfordwest, Untapped Brewery in Raglan, and Wrexham Lager hailing from the eponymous town are but a few of the brilliant purveyors of beers and ales.
Scouring for seafood As a result of the aforementioned Gulf Stream, the waters along the Welsh coast are both temperate and nutrient rich. This is especially pertinent in the bottlenecked Menai Strait, where this marine fertility converges and becomes concentrated. The mussels found in this region are a shining example of this phenomenon, recognised by an official Protected Designation of Origin and a uniquely rich taste and texture to match. Just over the Menai Bridge and on
If you’re after something stronger, distilleries abound throughout the country and any of the following are worth a tipple (or two): Aber Falls Distillery from Llanfairfechan; Angel Feathers Gin from the foothills of Moel Famau; Bullion Rum from Swansea; Celtic Country Wines from Llandysul; Coles Distillery and Sea Dragon Rum from Llanddarog; Dà Mhìle Distillery from Llandysul; Devil’s Bridge Rum from Cardiff; Gower Gin from Port Eynon; In The Welsh Wind Distillery from Tan-y-groes; Penderyn Whisky from Aberdare; The Pembrokeshire Gin Co from Tenby; and Welsh Sisters Gin from New Quay.
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The sweeter the better you say? Look no further than the wines on offer from White Castle Vineyard in Llanvetherine - or the freshly pressed and fermented offerings from Apple County Cider just south of Skenfrith Castle, Gwynt y Ddraig Cider from Llest Farm near Pontypridd, and Vale Cider from Bonvilston. There’s also a renaissance in the art of mead-making (we’ll forgive you if you hadn’t noticed), with Afon Mel in Llandysul and Wye Valley Meadery in Caldicot sweetening up our lives with their alcoholic nectar. Afon Mel in particular is also going back to basics by championing its own range of honey, ensuring you can take plenty of goodies back to your own hive.
Green Fine Foods (and WeDoughIt4U pizzas), Saveg’s vegan offerings, Trailhead Fine Foods (including Get Jerky), Welsh Speciality Foods, and the fine folks over at Wye Valley Producers. For something a little different, SamosaCo is a brilliant up-and-coming brand which enables you to have the great taste of South Asia while supporting a local small business.
For those who enjoy quenching their thirst in a lighter sense, there’s tremendous juice offerings from Sudd Afal Bryn Clwyd in Gellifor, and Welsh Farmhouse in Crickhowell - while other soft drinks are available from Blighty Booch Kombucha in Conwy, Llanllyr Source Water and Mixers near Lampeter, Radnor Hills in Knighton, and Ty Nant Water in Bethania on Cardigan Bay. And as we all know, some like it hot - with Coaltown Coffee in Ammanford and Mug Run Coffee in Rhyl catering to caffeine junkies, while Morgan’s Brew Tea in Welshpool and Welsh Brew Tea in Newton are making sure everyone can enjoy a good old-fashioned, honest cuppa from our own lands.
A special selection Who doesn’t enjoy the finer things in life? We may not have the bright lights of London, Paris or New York, but Wales has a bubbling undercurrent of luxurious local treats for every occasion - just waiting to be explored and indulged. Next time you’re perusing the charcuterie and delicatessen aisles or visiting your own local hotspot, great Welsh names to look out for include Blas ar Fwyd, Cwm Farm, Edwards of Conwy, and The Baker’s Pig. The Pembrokeshire Sea Salt Co is a must have when it comes to seasoning your selection of fine meats. There are also countless sauces and preserves which can turn your fine foods into a positively fantastical feast. Black Mountain Preserves, Do Goodly Dips, Farmers Food at Home, Maggie’s Exotic Foods, Penylan Preserves, Radnor Preserves, Sabor de Amor, Sorai Sauces, The Preservation Society, and Welsh Lady Preserves are all worthy contenders for that jar that take a front-and-centre spot in your cupboard. If your sweet tooth is proving to be insatiable, then the offerings from the Bee Welsh Honey, Gwenyn Gruffydd, Pen y Bryn, Wainwright’s Bee Farm, and Welsh Honey Company hives are sure to keep you buzzing around. These all have their own beekeeping operations, ensuring that their honey is procured in the freshest and most sustainable method possible. There are also many jack-of-all-trades suppliers who have garnered a knack for catering to all tastes with a wide variety of products. Look out for Flavours of Fields Lodge, Ffynnon Beuno, Harlech Foods, Maple
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Flour and bakes While there are countless exciting enterprises exploring new tastes in the world of food and drink, Wales also has a strong and deep-rooted history of the more traditional milling of flour and baking of associated delights. One such relic of our humble past is Y Felin in St Dogmaels, which is one of the last remaining active water mills in the country. Stoneground flour is produced here, powered solely by the water wheel itself. Reflecting on this unique process almost makes appreciating baked goods even more special - and there is by no means a shortage of such goods in Wales! Baked by Mel, Brynmor Flapjacks, Calon Lan Cakes, Cradoc’s Savoury Biscuits, Popty Bakery, Siwgr a Sbeis, Terry’s Patisserie, Tregroes Waffles, Wiggies Bread, and Wilfreds Premium Welsh Bakes are just some of the tried and trusted names you can rely on when you want a doughy delight.
Support local livelihoods The #LoveWalesLoveTaste#CaruCymruCaruBlas campaign is more than just a hashtag, it’s a movement. That national pride in our country can extend from a full heart to a full stomach too. Our beloved surroundings are more than just lovely to look at, they are the spirit and soul that quite literally sustains the Welsh people. We may be a small country, but we have dreamed big and better for generations when it comes to growing and cultivating our own produce. Each and every second taken to provide for our loved ones and each dinner table ritual should not be taken for granted - we should all take a moment to reflect on how much we Love Wales and Love Taste.
All Aboard Cheese – the perfect comfort food for those shorter days and darker nights this season. Billy Stillman presents a run-down of Welsh cheeses that should be on your cheese board this winter. Collier's Born in South Wales comes a cheddar cheese with a powerful taste. Collier's original recipe emerged from the idea of Welsh miners needing something strong to sustain them throughout their gruelling shifts. The cheese's characteristics of reliability, power and integrity replicate the spirit of the miners. The recipe that has become an iconic part of the Welsh cheese scene, having been matured for up to 20 months, delivers a balance between savoury and sweet, alongside a slightly crumbly, creamy texture. Using 100% Welsh milk, this cheese is a representation of the country's proud industrial heritage that separates it from other cheddars. Its slow release of intense flavour with no sharpness makes the cheese incredibly moreish. Collier's Powerful Welsh Cheddar : from £2.19
Caws Teifi
Collier's | Powerful Cheddar (collierscheese.com)
In the heart of Ceredigion lies Glynhynod Farm, owned by Holland natives John, Patrice and Paula. Caws Teifi have become famous for their unpasteurised, raw milk cheese, deriving from a 500 year old recipe. The Caerphilly-style Celtic Promise is the perfect companion for Christmas crackers, with its strong aromatic flavour and smooth buttery texture. The pink rind of the cheese is formed from being washed with cider twice a week for seven weeks. If the milder tasting cheeses are to your liking, then look no further than the Teifi Organic Halloumi. As the newest member to the team, this unpasteurised cheese was awarded three stars at this year's Great Taste. The halloumi's flavours are at its best when grilled or fried.
Caws Cenarth Cheese
Celtic Promise from £6.75 Organic Halloumi from £4.95 www.teificheese.co.uk Also available at www.welshcheesecompany.co.uk
Going back to 1903, Caws Cenarth is an adaptation of a family tradition. In 1987, Thelma and Gwynfor Adams turned the cheese making custom into a business. Based in Glyneithinog, Caws Cenarth have been gaining recognition since opening the farm, with Thelma's Original Caerffili. This original cheese tastes the same as it did when made by Lizzie Wyn and Lisa Jones in 1903, great, great grandmothers of Carwyn Adams who now runs the business, son of Thelma and Gwynfor. The velvety Caerffili delivers a soft, lemony flavour, making it an ideal component for the cheese board. Carwyn has been busy concocting new recipes, notably the Golden Cenarth, which won the Supreme Champion accolade at the British Cheese Awards 2010. This semi-soft cheese packs a nutty flavour and can be eaten as it comes or after baking in the oven for dipping. Thelmas's Original Caerffili from £4.95 Golden Cenarth from £6.80 www.cawscenarth.co.uk Also available at www.welshcheesecompany.co.uk
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Castell Gwyn Jackie Whittaker, artisan soft cheese maker has recently set up her own micro dairy in North Wales. The milk she uses is collected from friends down the road at Mostyn Dairies, which comes from local JerseyCross cows. Keeping the food miles low, this leads to a more sustainable business. The four flavoured soft cheeses Jackie has available on her website include Cracked Black Pepper, Welsh Honey, Fresh Chives and Penderyn Whisky. She is supportive of other local businesses, using honey from Black Mountain and whisky from Penderyn to combine with the indulgent flavours of the creamy cheese. Individual Soft Cheese Pot £3.99 castellgwyn.com
Trefaldwyn Cheese Winning Gold at this year's World Cheese Awards and two stars at the Great Taste Awards, comes the Trefaldwyn Blue. This artisan Welsh blue cheese is produced in the luscious area of Montgomery, and made from the highest quality local milk. Resulting in a rich, creamy flavour and a golden colour, the Trefaldwyn Blue has been praised by cheese judges across the globe. One judge at the Great Taste Awards stated that the Blue is “An attractive and enticing cheese with an even distribution of blueing. Creamy with a good lactic tang and a gentle sweetness.” Only available at a select number of delicatessens, farm shops, restaurants and hotels in the surrounding area of its origin, this cheese is highly exclusive, but nevertheless a must to sample. Trefaldwyn Blue from £3.20 www.trefaldwyn-cheese.com
Dragon Welsh cheese and butter manufacturers, Dragon, have been supplying the nation with their award-winning products since 1938. Started by John Owen Roberts, the company now works alongside 130 farms with the purpose of dairy farmers working together. Located at Llyn Peninsula, the cows live a peaceful lifestyle grazing on lush pastures, leading to milk of high quality. Proving to be sustainable, the business is one of the leading local employers, providing many jobs at the farms and factories. Following traditional recipes, Dragon offer a variety of cheeses, from cheddar to the more territorial editions. Such as the Vintage Cheddar & Leek, a hearty cheese combined with the bite of the symbolic Welsh ingredient, or the crumbly and citrusy Welsh Caerphilly. On their website are recipes that contain their own ingredients, including the Cheddar & Butternut Squash Soup, an ideal starter for this year's Christmas dinner. Vintage Cheddar & Leek from £2.29 Welsh Caerphilly from £1.50 www.dragonwales.co.uk
Snowdonia Cheese Company This family run business started out producing Cheddar and Red Leicester, and have since created many varieties, becoming a well-known facet of the Welsh cheese industry, with their colourful and bold wax packaging. The company have released the newest addition, their first ever cave-aged cheddar, Rock Star. These Welsh slate caverns provide a microclimate for developing amazing flavour, giving the Rock Star its edge. Aged for 18 months, this cheese delivers a rich and creamy flavour, with tones of sweet caramel and a savoury sharpness. Snowdonia also craft their own chutneys, which can be seen in the Christmas Cheer Hamper. This hamper is packed with festive delicacies, including their Fig & Apple Chutney, the iconic awardwinning Black Bomber and much more. Rock Star £4.50 Christmas Cheer Hamper £65.00 www.snowdoniacheese.co.uk Also available at www.welshcheesecompany.co.uk
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celtic with 30% Less Fat
NEW
Shooting Stars Welcome to our star-laden road-trip of Wales’s big winners in this year’s Great Taste Awards Where better to start off our whistle-stop tour of the Welsh winners of the Great Taste Awards 2021 than the ‘Môn Mam Cymru’ (mother of Wales) itself: Anglesey. The stars well and truly aligned from east to west, with the eponymous Fish Pie from Dylan’s Restaurant in Menai Bridge and Holyhead’s Anglesey Fine Foods’ Black Label Bone in Leg of Hogget both being awarded two stars in a stellar showing. The Menai Strait’s status as a ‘special area of conservation with marine components’ is due in part to this area’s rich abundance of fish - and Dylan’s Fish Pie is a culmination of this local lore. Lovingly crafted with haddock, smoked haddock, salmon, and prawns, the pies have been perfected over time in dedicated small batches. Road-tripping all the way across the A55 to Holyhead, the Black Label Bone in Leg of Hogget is an equally impressive ode to the island’s famed flocks of sheep. The PGI Welsh Bone of lamb is treated with due diligence, Himalayan Salt dry-aged for a total of 14 days to achieve optimal taste. Over the aforementioned Menai Strait and onto the mainland we arrive next in the home of Snowdonia: Gwynedd. Across the Menai Suspension Bridge we arrive almost directly at the door of Popty Bakery in Bangor, who were awarded two stars for their Bara Brith Fruit Cake. The 100-year-old authentic family recipe is followed to a tee, lovingly baked using traditional methods in the picturesque foothills of Snowdonia. Down the west coast in Nefyn, Dwyfor Coffee Company too have been recognised with two stars for their Colombian High Roast Espresso Beans. This is a blend of some of the finest Colombian coffee beans, hand-roasted onsite in small batches and with a flavour profile consisting of caramel, cherry and citrus. At the southern foot of the Coed y Brenin Forest Park, The Dyfi Distillery in Corris was awarded two stars for its Hibernation Gin, distilled with classic and foraged botanicals and aged in a 100-year-old White Port Cask. A special mention must go to Abergwyngregyn’s Aber Falls Distillery Inaugural Whisky Release. These initial 2000 bottles of single malt were distilled and bottled entirely in North Wales using Welsh malted barley and water, winning a star for their dark chocolate and golden syrup flavours complementing a creme brulee influence of cream, vanilla, and caramelised sugar. Also falling under the jurisdiction of Gwynedd (according to Great Taste) was Llanrwst in Conwy. This charming town is the self-proclaimed capital of the historically verdant Vale of Conwy and is also near Gwydyr Forest, the spiritual home of its own ‘Robin Hood’ legend of folklore: Dafydd ap Siencyn. The only thing being stolen around here though is the hearts of the Great Taste adjudicators, with Blas Ar Fwyd Cyf taking home a trio of two star awards for their Raspberry Extra Jam, Rice Pudding, and Traditional Christmas Pudding. The raspberry
jam with extra fruit is prepared by skilled staff in a traditional cooking environment with no additives, leading to a superior quality and taste, while their rice pudding uses sweetened round rice cooked in fresh cow’s milk and cream. As the festive season gets well and truly underway, it’s only right that the Blas Ar Fwyd Traditional Christmas Pudding gets a nod - a handmade, fully steamed, fruit-filled and stout soaked, fourth generation family recipe! Annie’s Patisserie in Flint, namesake of Flintshire, had a duo of two stars for its Cherry Bakewell Tart and Milk Chocolate Sea Salted Caramel Tart. The latter is an especially luxurious baked milk chocolate tart, flavoured with: caramel, sea salt and vanilla; and finished with chocolate glaze, drizzle, milk chocolate curls, and cocoa. Travelling down Flintshire to Mold, Fferm-y-ffrith’s Cajeta and the Hafod Brewing Company’s Fado and Dubbel Bruin were all recipients of two star awards. Cajeta is a caramel sauce that is made exclusively with Fferm-y-ffrith’s own goat’s milk, as opposed to cow’s milk Dulce de leche. In addition to the goat’s milk, the ingredients are rounded off by sugar, vanilla essence and baking soda. Hafod’s Fado is an Amber Sorachi Ace double IPA, with: coconut, vanilla and dill aromas; a sweet, smooth blend of coconut; and bubble gum flavours with a lemony finish. The deep amber Dubbel Bruin by contrast has sweet herbal, peppery aromas - leading to rich, malty flavours of caramel and burnt sugar, with a raisin and stone fruit sweetness.
Wrexham seems to have garnered quite a taste for stars now and seems to be collecting its own veritable constellation - and who can blame them? After only recently being launched into superstardom by the well-publicised purchase of the town’s football club by two of Hollywood’s own stellar names in the form of Ryan Reynolds and Robert McElhenney, that hasn’t stopped Happy Hedgehog Foods’ Strawberry Balsamic Vinegar adding another three stars to Great Taste’s Flintshire catchment area. This unique product prides itself on using fresh strawberries and sugars steeped in 100% Modena Balsamic vinegar over a 13-18 month period. Further still south and into Denbighshire, we arrive at Llangollen - where Dolwen Welsh Lamb and Beef also received three stars for its PGI Welsh Lamb
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Shoulder. This lamb is born and organically reared free range on the family farm in North Wales’ Berwyn mountains. This perfect environment of clean air, mineral rich grass and mountain streams, leads to its clean, succulent taste. Next, we arrive in the heartland of Wales - Powys. By simply following the south-westerly course of the River Severn, one encounters a plethora of award winners in the region. We start at Llandrinio and Argae Cottage, with their two star Leg of Welsh Lamb. Hung and matured for ten days, this lamb’s succulence stems from being 100% grass reared. South we go to Montgomery and Trefaldwyn Cheese, also on the receiving end of two stars for their Welsh Blue Cheese. This is a bold and creamy blue, produced carefully in small batches and using pasteurised Welsh milk over two days to maximise the flavour palette. Taking a more south-westerly course, we arrive at Newtown the home of another pair of two star winners in Hilltop Honey’s Manuka Honey and Radnor Preserves’ HandCut St Clements Marmalade. Hilltop’s effort stands out as a pure and natural Manuka Honey, carefully sourced from the best New Zealand beekeepers and tested (twice!) to certify its authenticity. Next we make a trip due west and onto Caersws, where Pantri Swswen’s three star Welsh Blackcurrant Conserve resides. This is a lightly set, tart, deep dark blackcurrant conserve made with Welsh fruits grown locally by small
organic rye grain and is perfect for loaves or other bakes such as brownies. Seven Seeds Strong Flour is another stone-ground effort with its seed mix giving a distinctive chew to the baked goodies at the end. We then trek from the north of the Brecon Beacons to Crickhowell at their southern feet. A quaint town nestling in the serene Usk Valley south of the Black Mountains, people have been settled here from at least the Iron Age! Back then a fort was built on top of Crug Hywel (Table Mountain), so called because of its flat top. Crickhowell lies south of the Brecon Beacons’ Black Mountains, which gives its name to the town’s Black Mountains Smokery. The two star Oak Smoked Duck Breast found here uses fresh duck, lightly cured with no additives or preservatives and gently hot smoked the traditional way over smouldering oak. Another product that benefits from small batch production, the Smokery recommends serving in thin slices alongside anything fruity. Across town one can find the three star Pickled Cucumber at Ty’r Gobaith’s Pantry. The Pickled Cucumber comprises homegrown cucumbers, layered with sliced onions and sweet pickled in small batches with spices, sugar and vinegar
producers. Pantri Swswen are keeping it simple with blackcurrants, water and sugar for the full fruity taste (and by using a small batch, handmade open pan cooking method). Lying south-east and right on the border with England is Wegnalls Farm in Presteigne, where their two star Dry Cured Back Bacon is cured and butchered on the farm’s smallholding. Southwards along the Herefordshire border lies Talgarth, where five of Felin Talgarth Mill’s flour and grain offerings were bestowed with two stars each (grinding out ten stars in total!) this year. The Strong Wholemeal Flour is a stone-ground flour perfect for making bread and milled from locally grown wheat, with 17% protein content giving it a high level of elasticity in the finished dough for a lovely 100% wholemeal loaf. The similarbut-different Wholemeal Strong Flour comes from organic wheat local to Wales, while its lower protein content of 13% makes it perfect for blending with other flours. Talgarth Mill’s contrasting Wholemeal Spelt Flour is ideal for pastries, scones, and other baked goods - while the Wholemeal Rye Flour is milled from
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for an entirely vegan treat. Before we leave Powys, another special mention must go to Trailhead Fine Foods in Welshpool, receiving one star each for their Original and scintillating Teriyaki Beef Jerky. East of Crickhowell we reach Monmouthshire and our first glimpse of Wales’ southern coast. Abergavenny’s Black Welsh Lamb won two stars for its Organic, Pasture-Fed Hogget Leg - while all the way east along the Old Ross Road and past the 12th Century Norman White Castle, Apple County Cider Co in Skenfrith also received two stars for its Perry. Another two stars were given to The Parsons Nose in Dingestow’s Beef Burger to the south, as well as the Ember from the Untapped Brewing Company in Usk to the southwest. The Silver Circle Distillery in Catbrook had a good year, taking home three stars for its Damson Negroni and two stars for its intriguing Black Garlic Vodka (don’t knock it
until you’ve tried it)! Travelling due west we arrive at Rhondda Cynon Taf, where Two Dogs Coffee Roasting Company in Treorchy won two stars for its eponymous Colombian Mountain Water Decaf. South of Treorchy lies Bridgend in Mid Glamorgan, where the Bwich Passage from the Cold Black Label t/a Brecon Brewing won a further two stars. Moving into Glamorgan proper, Cowbridge had a couple of two star winners in Fablas Ice Cream’s Raspberry Dessert Topping Sauce and the Breakwell’s Seedling at Llanblethian Orchards. At Peterston-super-Ely in the east, Peterston Tea won two stars for its Welsh Gold variant, while there was another tea-tastic victory down south on the coast in Penarth - where Rose & Dragon was awarded two stars for its Forest Focus. The Great Taste Awards 2021 seems to have its priorities in order (and a collective sweet tooth to match), honouring the Tiramisu Ice Cream from Daisy & Belle Ice Cream in Cardiff. This naughty-but-nice concoction feels like it should be illegal, but the fine people of Wales are definitely better off with it gracing our plates (and our stomachs).
Following the coast west we arrive at Carmarthenshire. Dunbia’s operation in Llanybydder continues to thrive, demonstrated by its Rose County 35 Day Dry Aged Native Breed Cote de Boeuf being awarded three stars. That’s not all though as there were also two stars for its Ridings Reserve 30 Day Aged Flat Iron Steak, Welsh Hill Lamb Rack Cap On, Welsh Hill Lamb Leg Butterfly, West Country Choice PGI 21 Day Aged Beef Short Rib, Welsh Hill Carvery Lamb Shoulder, and Ridings Reserve 30 Day Aged Cote De Boeuf (phew). South and on to the village of Cross Hands, Fecci's Ice Cream t/a Mario's Luxury Dairy Ice Cream got three stars for its Sicilian Pistachio dairy ice cream and two stars for its Lime and Ginger sorbet. Further south in Llangennech, Cilgwenyn Bee Farm won two stars for both its Mêl Cilgwenyn Gower Saltmarsh Wildflower Honey and its Mêl Cilgwenyn Brecon Beacons Uplands Wildflower Honey. At Cydweli to the west, Seidr y Mynydd’s eponymous Keeved Cidre Bouché took home two stars - while right on the border with Pembrokeshire, Hedyn Aur in Lancych won two stars each for its Crispy thins seeded original and Crispy thins with Laverbread crackers.
Across the Bae Caerfyrddin from the aforementioned Cydweli lies Kilgetty, where two stars were awarded to the Still Wild Sweet Vermouth. Westwards and at the mouth of the Milford Haven we arrive at Neyland, where the Fudge Foundry was also on the receiving end of two stars for its Lemon Meringue Fudge. Haverfordwest is not only the county town of Pembrokeshire, but also the epicentre of Wales’ Great Taste Awards 2021 success - with Pembrokeshire Lamb taking home the coveted Golden Fork Award for its three star Hogget Shoulder (among another constellation of stars)! There were also two star awards for its Mutton Mince, Mutton Shoulder and Pembrokeshire Lamb Shoulder. Lochmeyler Farm Ice Cream’s Pembrokeshire Salted Caramel Dairy Ice Cream and Blackcurrant Sorbet, and Wickedly Welsh Chocolate’s Dark Chocolate & Sea salt were also winners across town. Following the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, we arrive at Newport, where The Smoke Shed Smoked Salmon won two stars and Pembrokeshire Sea Salt Co won a star each for its Natural Sea Salt and imaginative Sea Salt with Sichuan Pepper.
We round off our tour of the very best that Wales had to offer in this year’s Great Taste Awards 2021 in Ceredigion. There’s no place better to start than in the county’s namesake, Cardigan - where there were wins for the two star Crwst Welsh Honey Butter and the one star In the Welsh Wind Distillery’s Signature Style. East along the border with Carmarthenshire we arrive at Llandysul: the home of Caws Teifi Cheese’s three star Teifi Halloumi, and Dá Mhile Distillery’s one star Dá Mhile Organic Single Malt Welsh Whisky. Northeast into the heartland of the county, the Welsh Homestead Smokery in Tregaron won a star each for its Smoked Chilli & Paprika Bacon and Scotch Bonnet & Mango Smoked Chilli Jam. Slightly further on a northeast course and off the beaten track from Pontrhydfendigaid, one stumbles (in the best possible, three star way!) upon Lili Mai’s Raspberry and Rose Jam. So ends our tour of Wales according to the country’s big winners at the Great Taste Awards 2021! It’s been another strange old year but the good food and drink of the nation is still going strong. To all the winners named here and the many more we wish we could honour - Llongyfarchiadau (Congratulations)!
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Partners Wales with its often cooler, wetter climate might not immediately be expected to be on a par with global wine producing heavyweight countries out there located in warmer climes, but read on to discover a fantastic range of Welsh wines packing a punch well above their weights to rival many a vintage out there. Get your corkscrew out and enjoy some of Wales’s best vintages…
Ancre Hill Estates
Spring Hollow Vineyard
Using traditional Biodynamic and Organic Viticultural practices for the best possible yield of fruit, the wines made at Ancre Hill Estates reflect the ancient mudstone terrain and sandstone soils. Fermented in oak, concrete and stainless steel, their sparkling wines benefit from long lees aging. The Sparkling Rose is bouncing with flavours of citrus, strawberries and vanilla and delivers a mellow level of acidity. Pairing with almost anything, this fresh Rose is particularly tasty with a crisp salad or a selection of soft cheeses. Included in the Estates’ still wine is the Pinot Noir 2018, a light but intense red with hints of cherries and liquorice. Ideal with a Christmas nut roast, lamb tagine or pork & mushrooms. Also available in their range are the Sui Generis, Latin for ‘unique – in a class by itself ’. In this category is their Orange Wine, a peachy and herbaceous Albarino with a floral and aromatic edge.
Situated in West Wales, Sally and Wayne Campbell grow their own cool climate grapes at Spring Hollow Vineyard resulting in fine, quality wine. The vineyard is hand planted on sandy soils over slate and shale, all leading to the excellent final product. Making their wine both organically and biodynamically, Spring Hollow are one of the many vineyards striving for a natural production and taste. Their light red Rondo 2018 is a fruity wine, hinting blackcurrant and plum, finishing on a note of vanilla. This wine is a perfect match for Christmas dinner, combining pleasantly with meat, and also ideal with the evening cheese board. Or if pasta is on the menu this year, the Solaris White 2018 would be the finest companion. Pale gold in colour, this refreshing wine delivers flavours of peach, grapefruit and honey.
Sparkling Rose: £39.95 Pinot Noir 2018: £21.95 Orange Wine: £29.95
Solaris White 2018: £20.00 Rondo Red 2018: £20.00 springhollowvineyard.co.uk
www.ancrehillestates.co.uk
Gwinllan Conwy Having no experience of growing grapes to begin with, this now award-winning vineyard have expanded from 300 vines to 3000. Due to the remarkable weather in the Llangwstenin area, the team started planting traditional varieties like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This honest winery are a leading example of working towards perfection, through learning about wine making along the way and showing a constant desire to experiment. The Pefriog 2019 is the top tipple for any winter celebration - “Refreshingly crisp and balanced with citrus and a creamy finish”. This Welsh sparkling wine is made with white Pheonix grapes, originally from Germany and formed through crossing Bacchus with Villard Blanc. Another one of their best sellers is the Regent Rose 2020, “A nose of crushed red berry with wild strawberries and red pear notes on the palate”. Pefriog 2019: £35.00 Regent Rose 2020: £19.00 gwinllanconwy.co.uk
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in Wine Gwinllan Llaethliw Vineyard
Montgomery Vineyard
At the foothills of the Cambrian Mountains, Gwinllan Llaethliw began their journey in 2008 after planting 5275 Solaris, Rondo, Regent and Orion vines. The vineyard has since largely expanded and grow a wider variety of grapes, including Bacchus, Seyval Blanc, Pheonix, Pinot Noir and Madeleine Angevine. Translating to “colour of milk”, Llaethliw was named after a nearby river whose running water’s appearance is like milk, and is possibly the inspiration behind the titling of Dylan Thomas’ ‘Under Milk Wood’. The Llaethliw Red, made from Rondo grapes, is a light purple wine with aromas of plum and cherries, and notes of blackberry. An incredibly soft drink, this red is light enough to be chilled down slightly, and enjoyed with roast chicken during the winter time.
From the Garden of Montgomeryshire comes a fine wine made using traditional methods with new technology. Their Sparkling Rose 2017 “Won the top accolade of the best wine in Wales and their wines also took the top rose, red and whites categories”. The Solaris, a frequently grown white grape to be used for wine in Wales has been harvested and bottled into a white wine with a difference at Montgomery Vineyard. Solaris 2019 is full of floral flavour and tropical on the nose, becoming one of Wales’ favourite wines. Released this year was the Montgomery Pink Sparkling Wine, made from the vineyard’s Vintage 2018. This striking bottle of wine is held in dark glass with a vibrant pink design, a perfect Christmas gift to impress any wine lover. Its bursting sweet and crunchy fruit flavours are the perfect additions to this year’s celebrations.
Llaethliw Red: £16.00 llaethliw.co.uk
Sparkling Rose 2018: £45.00 Pink Sparkling Wine: £36.00 www.montgomeryvineyard.co.uk
Llanerch
White Castle Welsh Wine From a rapidly growing interest in the vineyard, and even an encouraging message from Kylie Minogue, it is fair to say that this winery means business. With some new releases announced, including the 2020 Gwin Gwyn, Nicola and Robb Merchant over at the Abergavenny-based vineyard are excited to show the latest additions to the White Castle family. The Pinot Noir Reserve 2019 is one of the many ideal Christmas companions this year, matching perfectly with cheese, not to mention the Sparkling Esmae Rose 2017. So whether it’s to enjoy with dinner this year, or as a gift to a loved one, head over to White Castle’s website to choose the perfect bottle of Welsh wine.
Looking for a Christmas gift with a difference this year? Llanerch Vineyard have a range of delicious experiences available at their vineyard, restaurant and hotel. Enjoy a tour of the vineyard combined with a tasting session of the three Cariad still wines that are produced at the winery. The two whites and rose, along with their sparkling range, are only available to taste or buy onsite, making these gift vouchers very exclusive. Or upgrade to a tour, tasting session and a two course meal at the vineyard’s restaurant, where you can taste some of the finest food in Wales. Llanerch also offer the golden experience that includes the entire package – an overnight stay in a hotel room of your choice, a three course meal for two, a bottle of Cariad on arrival and two places on the vineyard tour and tasting. Purchase an experience on their website as a gift for a loved one this Christmas. Wine Tasting & Tour: £18.00 Wine Tasting, Tour & Two Course Lunch: £43.00 Overnight Stay Package: from £250.00 llanerch.co.uk
Gwin Gwyn 2020: £18.00 Pinot Noir Reserve 2019: £30.00 Sparkling Esmae Rose 2017: £30.00 whitecastlevineyard.com
www.taste-blas.co.uk
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“A great read as well as a great go-to recipe book.” – Matt Tebbutt, Saturday Kitchen
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Meet the Producer: Wild Welsh Meat
Producer Profile
For this edition of Meet the Producer, we talk to Izzy Hosking. From a passion and love for shooting and hunting, Izzy has grown Wild Welsh Meat to encompass both Pennant Valley Game (on Llechweddygarth Estate in the picturesque Mid Wales countryside) and Izzy's Butchers (a traditional village Butchers shop in the nearby village of Llanrhaeadr Ym Mochnant). We sat down with Izzy to discuss the ins and outs of game, its unique selling points, and its future sustainability. How did you first get involved in the game industry? I have always been passionate about the countryside and the way of country life ever since being a young kid. When I left school, I studied Gamekeeping at Hartpury College in Gloucestershire and then went on to working as a full time Gamekeeper, a career that brought me to Wales from my native Oxfordshire. Can you tell me more about Wild Welsh Meat? Wild Welsh Meat started as a small cottage industry, supplying quality Pheasant products to the clients shooting on the estate. I also started to attend local farmers markets, where it was soon apparent that there was a huge void in supply, but an equal demand for quality well-presented Game. I was at the time, the only business processing game in Wales. Now in my 10th year, things have progressed significantly, I now own my local butchers shop – “Izzy’s Butchers” in Llanrhaeadr Ym Mochnant, Powys. Here we supply all traditional meats but sticking to my roots I offer as much Game as possible. I also still attend the Farmers Markets to sell the Game that I cut my teeth on. What different types of game meat are out there? Pheasant is one of the widely available Game meats, a recent marketing push has now got it onto supermarket shelves regularly. Venison is also one of the more recognised Game meats, again becoming more readily available. Partridge and Pigeon are both gaining in popularity, partly due to TV chefs selling the virtues of Game. Rabbit is a hugely underrated protein and food source, I hear anecdotes of plague proportions in some areas, yet rarely see it offered for sale. Why should consumers consider eating game meat? Game meat should be eaten more in this country, it is a food source that compared to traditional meats provides more protein, yet less cholesterol and less fat. There are many different flavours to discover within the bracket of “Game” Venison for example, there are 6 different species of Wild Deer, all have a completely different flavour. The same can be said for Game birds.
Pheasant is one type that is seen in abundance across Wales - tell us a little more about what makes this meat so tasty? Pheasant Shooting is a huge part of our community, it provides a lot of jobs and economic benefit in our local area. It also provides us with a great food source on our doorstep. The Pheasants are free ranging to forage on wild food, but are also fed on Wheat and Maize. This free lifestyle and abundance of feed, ensures a well-developed taste. It is such a versatile meat, it can take on really strong flavours, or can be cooked simply to enjoy as it is. Why is game meat such as pheasant increasingly being seen as a good local, healthy and sustainable choice? Game should be recognised as a healthy, sustainable meal option. Our pheasants and Partridge we produce have low food miles, 5 to be exact – the distance from the shoot to my shop. How much more local to your supply can you be? Venison, Rabbits and Pigeons are all harvested when there is a surplus population, more often than not controlled when they are damaging crops for human consumption. So what can be more sustainable than that? Where would someone buy game from? Game meat should for all the reasons above, be available and affordable for everybody. We offer a wide range of Game products in the Butchers shop and also sell online. We sell a selection of traditional cuts, but also more innovative, easy cook products such as Pheasant sausages and kievs. I feel that it is important to offer these types of choices, as it is a very good way of introducing people to game, who otherwise would be scared to cook it. Your local Butchers or Farmers markets would be worth checking out to see if there is anybody selling local game. You can find out more about Izzy’s work here: wildwelshmeat.co.uk
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A Taste of Things to Come Our round up of BlasCymru/TasteWales 2021 BlasCymru/TasteWales at the Celtic Manor’s International Conference Centre Wales in late October was many attendees’ first opportunity to go to an event since the lockdowns and clearly, everyone was happy to be there. The occasion was an amazing opportunity for producers to launch new and innovative ideas. From Caerphilly cheese to whisky from North Wales, BlasCymru/TasteWales is a representation of the country’s finest produce. This year saw significant focus on sustainability and the importance of buying local with the reality of the ever-growing climate crisis growing clearer than ever. Spearheading this push towards sustainability and with a major presence at BlasCymru/TasteWales, was the Sustainability Cluster. The Welsh government has been running both sector specific and thematic food ‘clusters’ for some time, which offer support and opportunities for like-minded people to connect with one another, but the Sustainability Cluster is different, with an arguably much greater brief. It will support all food and drink producers across Wales, encouraging sustainability within the production, sales and consumption of food and drink. Food Innovation Wales’s Project HELIX, a Welsh Government and EU-funded project was a significant presence at this year’s event. Created to help Welsh businesses grow by developing original products from concept, design, development and manufacture, through to the consumer’s shopping basket, sustainability is a major focus. Increasingly they’re supporting the development of plant-based products and encouraging sustainability by pushing the reduction of waste and improving efficiency. Just as important are the Welsh brands that are making a huge effort to change their ways for the better of the planet. Notable amongst them at BlasCymru/ TasteWales was Puffin Produce with the launch of their ‘Root Zero’ potato, which is certified carbon neutral.
From the power used at the farm to the transport that ships the potatoes, the company are significantly reducing their carbon footprint. MD of Puffin, Huw Thomas, stated “We have to act now, so we’re on a mission to become carbon neutral and farm in a way that protects and regenerates our land, plants and wildlife.” Of the many new product launches at the show, the 2021 release of the first North Wales whisky in 100 years, from Aber Falls was one of the more notable, bottled and distilled near Aber Falls using Welsh barley. Rising star Roar Beer were showcasing their brand new 100% vegan beer at the event, a delicious zesty beer that matches perfectly with spicy dishes. Monty’s Brewery also launched a new beer to add to the collection, their first non-alcoholic beverage. Their Nude IPA is 0% but tastes just like the real thing. Similarly, Welsh Brew Tea were displaying their new Wellness Tea developed with Pharmabees of Cardiff University and Cardiff & Vale Health Board. Also showcasing their hot drinks were Fab Four Coffee, run by rugby legends Shane Williams, Lee Byrne, Mike Phillips and James Hook. In a new trend, there were a number of Welsh rums launched at the show including Da Mhile’s Dark Skies Rum, Devil’s Bridge Rum and Cardiff Distillery’s Lan Y Mor and Afon Lo. And the boom in gins continues with Hensol Castle, Mallows, Monmouth Gin and Treganna Gin all joining the fray with new products. Daffodil Foods introduced a plantbased truffle pudding called Potted Plant, that’s better for you, and better for the environment as no plastic is used in their packaging. With a strong message of sustainability and shopping locally at this year’s BlasCymru/TasteWales, businesses were not only promoting their products, but also the ways in which they are having a positive impact on the wellbeing of the planet. From sustainable packaging and green energy to regenerating our natural environment, Welsh producers are making some serious changes. As consumers, buying local is crucial when it comes to reducing our carbon footprint, primarily to cut down on air and road miles, but also to ensure what we eat and drink is produced sustainably. It’s a win-win situation for both consumer and environment, because local produce invariably tastes better, is easier to trace and monitor and has fewer road-miles. By purchasing from local sellers, you are supporting local workers, encouraging them to produce sustainably and helping them thrive. The more jobs available closer to home, the less travel necessary, leading to a smaller collective carbon footprint. And if this is BlasCymru/TasteWales 21’s legacy, then we can all be proud.
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MORGANS BREW TEA
We are specialist suppliers of loose leaf teas and infusions from established plantations. Our blends are sourced from a collection of old and new recipes. We sell our own brand of 46 loose leaf teas and accessories via online webshop. We love to share our passion for tea in all its myriad forms and delight in inspiring our customers to try new flavours and recipes.We want to encourage our customers to think differently about they use tea and infusions for drinking and culinary use. Our aromatic and flavour-rich blends are endlessly versatile; whether it be a satisfying cuppa, a delicate herbal pick-me-up, as an aromatic culinary ingredient or as a twist to an elegant cocktail. From black teas to caffeine-free, from herbal to fruit infusion – all our teas are blended for your enjoyment. You can drink our teas and infusions in the morning, mid-day, afternoon, evening - and as a nightcap. T: 01938 552 303 | M: 07713 440 558 | E: hello@morgansbrewtea.co.uk | www.morgansbrewtea.co.uk Oldford House, Berriew Road, Welshpool, Powys SY21 7SS
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Twelve Foodie Days of Christmas
Join us on a special taste.blas version of a classic Christmas carol to ensure that you get to enjoy the best of Welsh food and drink, not only on Christmas day, but on all twelve days of the official festive season! No partridges this year but please read on to find out more about the goodies you can spoil yourself on this Christmas containing some of our favourite products from the past year (and some that have been our favourites for years!). On the first day of Christmas taste.blas gave to me…
Crackers Let’s kick off Christmas with a simple staple - the humble cracker! We recommend Cradoc’s savoury biscuits. Made from fresh vegetables and baked in the foothills of the Brecon Beacons, Cradoc’s is made supporting local businesses, and made to be suitable for a variety of diets as they contain no palm oil, eggs or nuts. Cradoc’s come in a variety of flavours: Chilli, Ginger and Garlic, Leek and Caerphilly Cheese and our personal favourite, Lemongrass, Coconut and Chilli. Book early to get in your Christmas order and avoid disappointment. Pair with Castle Dairies butter roll with Halen Mon salt crystals to really bring out the flavour of the crackers.
On the third day of Christmas...
Whisky A warming tipple that you might put out for Father Christmas, or whoever else likes a whisky! Aber Falls distills their whisky between Snowdonia and the Menai Strait, using the purest Welsh water and other specially crafted Welsh ingredients from the surrounding area. Aber Falls is the first whisky distillery in Wales for over a 100 years, and is one of only four current whisky distilleries in Wales. Their whisky is rich and full-bodied, embodying the Welsh landscape. With an aroma of vanilla and toffee, candied citrus fruits, figs and sultanas, how could you resist? Aber Falls has a strong focus on sustainability at their distillery, so you can enjoy a glass at Christmas entirely guilt free.
On the second day of Christmas...
Cheese What else are you going to pair those crackers with? Few things can beat the flavour combination of Welsh crackers and cheese. Try an artisinal Welsh cheese like Caws Teifi. Experts in the field, Caws Teifi specialise in making unpasteurised cheese and are the longest established artisan cheesemakers in Wales, winning a number of awards. Try some of their more unusual flavours this Christmas like their seaweed cheese, or their nettle cheese. If that’s not your thing, then Caws Teifi also offer a range of more common cheeses such as halloumi, Caerphilly cheese, and smoked cheese. If this still isn’t your thing and you’re just looking for the best Cheddar, then go no further than Collier’s powerful cheese.
On the fourth day of Christmas…
Meat
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The main feature of Christmas dinner for many families is a turkey or a cut of meat; if you want to stay local with your purchases to avoid the stress of late lorry deliveries and last minute food shopping on Christmas Eve, check out Welsh Luing Beef or Pembrokeshire Lamb.
www.taste-blas.co.uk
On the fifth day of Christmas…
On the eighth day of Christmas...
Hot Chocolate
Fudge
Although we’re a big fan of Welsh Brew Tea here at taste.blas magazine, this time of year calls for something a bit more indulgent - hot chocolate! And Welsh Brew Tea is happily accommodating with their Luxury Hot Chocolate. Decadent and luxurious, you can buy a 300g pot to drink after a winter walk or if you’re a particularly big fan of hot chocolate, you can get a 2kg pot to keep you going through the winter months!
A great love of ours around Christmas time is fudge, and many of us can always count on finding some in our stockings here at taste.blas. Two brands that give a twist on the classic that we are particularly excited to try this year are Coco Pzazz and Halen Mon! You may know Halen Mon as pioneers of the salt industry, but they use their salt in many different products, including fudge! Their ‘Sea-Kissed Vanilla Fudge’ is irresistibly buttery and crumbly, with just the right amount of salt to cut through the sweetness. Coco Pzazz has taken it a step further by coming up with a flavour we’ve never seen before - Christmas pudding fudge! Packed full of festivity, with raisins, glace cherries and rum flavouring, this is sure to put a grin on your face!
On the ninth day of Christmas…
Fish On the sixth day of Christmas...
Cranberry Sauce Welsh Lady Preserves makes a range of jams, relishes and chutneys but today we want to focus on one of their more festive products - cranberry sauce! A Christmas staple, add a dollop of this cranberry sauce to your turkey, goose or nut roast for that perfect sharp tang to complement your Christmas dinner. You could make your own… but why bother when Welsh Lady Preserves have done it all for you? Welsh Lady Preserves have won a remarkable number of awards, including Great Taste Awards, for a reason that makes their products perfect for the dinner table, or as a gift.
Another step away from tradition but still a delicious treat is to eat fish over the Christmas period. Smoked salmon is a favourite for a posh Christmas breakfast with a poached egg or a light dinner to pair with leftovers from Christmas lunch. Get yourself some salmon from Black Mountain Smokery if you’re really in the mood to spoil yourself this Christmas.
On the tenth day of Christmas...
Mead If you’re interested in branching out with your flavours, few sensations can beat the first golden sip of mead. A sweet drink known as honey wine, check out our ‘A Taste of Honey’ article by Jon Gower from our summer issue for the full history! He recommends trying Mountain Mead but we can also highly recommend Wye Valley Meadery.
On the eleventh day of Christmas...
Christmas Pudding
On the seventh day of Christmas...
Gin Aber Falls’ salted toffee gin is beautifully rich and sweet, but not at all sickly. Made in collaboration with Halen Môn, the salt adds an intense note of Anglesey sea salt. Praised by the likes of Gordon Ramsay, Heston Blumenthal and even Barack Obama for its unique taste, and winning a silver award for the International Spirits Challenge, you should get your hands on this before everyone catches on, but keep it our secret!
If you’re not up to making your own Christmas pudding, or you’re the only one in your family who likes them, get one of the small Christmas puddings from Blas ar Fwyd. Their Christmas puddings have 2 great taste stars, enough to convert anyone to the Christmas taste.
On the twelfth day of Christmas…
Boxing Day Curry Tired from all the cooking on Christmas Day? You’re not the only one. If you’ve got lots of leftover turkey, then grab a pot of Boxing Day curry sauce to add those leftovers to. Samosa Co. have a jar of North Indian Curry Sauce ready to go for you - just open, heat it up, and add whatever you want to it.
www.taste-blas.co.uk
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Real Ale. True Quality... Raglan’s award winning brewery - We offer a wide range of superb beers made on site, including pale ales, bitters, stout and wheat beer. Available in bottle, 5 litre party pin, 36 pint pin and 72 pint firkin for both trade and public to collect from the brewery, free local delivery or couriered anywhere in the country.
Monday-Friday 10am-5pm • Saturday 10am-3pm AP NT P
Unit 6, Little Castle Business Park, Raglan, NP15 2BX
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Take the Clytha exit at the Raglan roundabout on the A40, then take the next right signposted Llantilio/Crossenny
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Telephone: 01291 690074 W I N G CS H IR E
AN,
MONMOUTH
Red or Dead? With all of the goings on at COP26 still fresh in our minds, the question of how sustainable the meat industry is has perhaps never been more prevalent. Whether you simply can’t bear to part with your carnal desires, are casting your net into pescetarianism, or are already a fully fledged vegetarian (or even vegan), there is an awful lot for us as a society to consider when plating up. At the recent Hybu Cig Cymru-Meat Promotion Wales (HCCMPW) annual conference, Diana Rodgers RD did her best to provide delegates with an exploration of how to break down the above query - starting by asking “What is the optimal diet for humans and how can we grow it in a sustainable way?” Rodgers presents the Sustainable Dish Podcast, is an author of three books, runs a clinical nutrition practice and has served in an advisory role with numerous nutrition and agriculture organizations. Her new initiative, the Global Food Justice Alliance, advocates for a nutritious, sustainable and equitable worldwide food system. While the meat industry finds itself in a constant state of defending its sustainability as consumers are increasingly cautious about where their food comes from, Rodgers is defiant about meat’s rightful place in the human diet. “Red meat is completely misunderstood and being unfairly targeted as a scapegoat for our concerns about health and our worries about climate change; it’s much easier to pin our worries on something as powerful and polarising as red meat rather than tackling the world’s complex problems and tackling them in a cleverer and more nuanced way,” she said. “There is bundled-up propaganda out there that says that meat causes cancer, heart disease, diabetes; that it’s bad for the environment; it’s unnecessary - why eat meat when we can just engineer proteins in labs? - and it is unethical. That those who are “more enlightened” have moved beyond meat eating”. She told HCC’s conference attendees that this propaganda was not only incredibly damaging - but wrong. “There is no research that has shown a direct cause between red meat and disease; meat is the best source of iron and B12, the most common nutrient deficiencies worldwide. B12 is not available in plant sourced foods and red meat’s iron is in the wrong form in plants. And, most importantly, “the vegan diet is simply a privilege that many don’t have.” “Let’s look at the environmental case for meat. You can see that cattle on grass in general doesn’t require chemicals, increases soil microbial life and rainfall absorption, promotes a cooler ground temperature, better wildlife habitat, less inputs - that’s chemicals and fertilisers - are required.” Rodgers’ emphasis on having “less inputs” is echoed
Sustainability
by a technical article on regenerative farming provided by the Farming Connect service on Business Wales’ own website. Detailed here is the example of mixedfarming, a ‘regenerative’ agricultural process where livestock is reared in tandem with crops: “It is proposed that by applying grazing livestock into a crop rotation farmers can directly add nutrients to the soil via dung leading to closed-loop systems. This can reduce external inputs and have significant ecosystem impacts for the field including improved nutrient cycling via dung beetles. Arable farmers could consider utilising livestock from nearby farms rotated in as and when needed to provide benefits that flow both ways.” In Wales, there are fine exponents of this practice such as Llanllyr and Penllyn Estates. Farming Connect also explains the huge promise of utilising technology in regenerative farming, which can help to optimise the health of soil, crops and pasture - all the while drastically reducing the need for chemicals and fertilisers. “For livestock grazing, there is potential in virtual fencing GPS systems which allow remote low labour rotational grazing practices across open land without the need for extensive fencing. Realistically, the sector should be looking to combine any and all tools available to move towards more than just a sustainable system, but also one which actively regenerates and flourishes at new lower input equilibriums long term.” However, Rodgers also acknowledged that mixed farming isn’t always possible - with most land used by livestock not available for other purposes. “Remember, most of the agricultural land around the world is not land that we can crop. Taking animals off the land doesn’t mean we can free up more land for plants or other purposes,” she said. One such place where this is a case in point is Hafod y Maidd in Conwy. The farm is run by Iwan and Eleanor Davies and registered as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) due to a large area of it subject to statutory conservation. Hafod y Maidd was one of the family farms which took part in an in-depth analysis of the carbon emissions and sequestration of Welsh sheep and beef farms by HCCMPW and Bangor University in 2020. The overall results showed that Welsh farming was in a strong position in terms of having lower emissions than many types of farming across the world, and had the potential to be world-leading in terms of sustainable farming. Iwan, a fifth generation farmer said, “The success of our enterprise is all down to what, where and how we produce it. Finding the right breed of cattle that suits our imperfect pastures has meant a minimum of intervention, and in turn we have been able to return to centuries-old farming practices that work with our unique environment and not against it. We are proud to produce nutritious quality meat using sustainable practices – just as nature intended.”
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A Great Catch
Women are making waves
in the Welsh fishing community It’s great to see the recent creation of Women in Welsh Fisheries (WIWF), a group set up to help women in what is still largely recognised as a maledominated industry, enabling them to share stories and spread the word about their work, with the aim of raising awareness and celebrating the women within the industry, highlighting the roles they play and encouraging others to do the same. Established by the Wales Seafood Cluster, a Cywainled project, WIWF enables fisherwomen to deal with the difficulties they experience and to encourage and support one another, and make positive long-term changes for not only fisherwomen, but also the women who are working tirelessly behind the scenes, taking care of families and covering the marketing, admin and distribution roles. Pembrokeshire exporter, Nerys Edwards became a member of the group because of her experiences as a lorry driver when she first joined the industry. Nerys described this time as lonely due to a lack of companionship, as there wasn’t anyone else like her within the fishing circuit. The role of women in fishing is under-appreciated, often perceived as less important than that of men. Nerys stressed this issue, stating that “...we’re lorry drivers, we’re exporters, we’re processors, we’re fishmongers, we’re mechanics, we’re boat owners, we’re skippers.” Encouraging women across Wales to reach out to the group is Cardigan-based fishmonger Jane Roche of Catch of the Day. After experiencing a difficult couple of years due to the pandemic, having only opened her quayside fishmongers in 2019 with her husband, Jane is stressing the importance of WIWF as now is an even more crucial time for women in the fishing industry to come together. No matter what the role of the individual, Jane highlighted the benefits of the group, stating that “It is wonderful to have like-minded people to support you, and to have a chat with over a glass of wine in a safe environment where you can have a giggle and you won’t be judged.” She is also promoting the need for more women in the industry and supports WIWF’s aim to become a proactive organisation that raises awareness of career opportunities. Recognising
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the talent and willingness in women fishers will make fishing a more sustainable industry, and one that strives for equality in a safe space. The more women involved within the trade, the better the vision for the future of the fishing industry, and the more inclusive this work environment presents itself, the more women will apply for roles in this sector. Carol Evans of the Welsh Fishermen’s Association, who also started up a fishing business with her husband further addressed the critical role women play within the trade. She said “There are so many jobs that so many of the wives of our fishermen in Wales do to make sure the businesses keep going, to make sure that fishermen are supported, and to make sure that everything’s ok. They’re the unsung heroes.” It is evident that the industry wouldn’t function as well without these women who work tirelessly both in the background and at the forefront. As a member of the group, Carol admires the social aspect of WIWF that offers the opportunities for women to get together and discuss the way forward for the generations to come. Also backing the group is Minister for Rural Affairs Lesley Griffiths, who stated that “The group will be a warm place with mutual support.” WIWF’s story is being heard across the nation through news features and online magazines, raising significant awareness of the roles of women within the fishing industry. Evidently, fisheries are not the only traditionally male perceived sector where positive changes are afoot. Similar to the fishing industry, the whisky trade is also perceived to be run by men. But Welsh brands such as Penderyn Distillery are an indication of change. Penderyn’s two master distillers are Laura Davies and Aista Jukneviciute, two women who have helped built up the brand to an internationally renowned whisky distiller. Other Welsh businesses that are run by women include Bluestone, Tomos Watkin and Boss Brewing, all highly praised and recognised brands. Organisations like WIWF are examples of a positive change happening, where women are working against discrimination, supporting each other and seizing more opportunities. Long may it continue.
Grown Not Flown www.pembrokeshirechillifarm.com
Inspired by cargoes landed on our west Wales coast, our award-winning contemporary dry gin’s full of warm sweet flavours synonymous with Wales that finish long and smooth.
01239872300 www.inthewelshwind.co.uk info@inthewelshwind.co.uk @inthewelshwind
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News
Hold the front page Aber Falls Farmers Market
Dolwen Welsh Lamb & Beef
Aber Falls are opening their doors this winter to invite the finest selection of Welsh producers to showcase and sell the best food and drink in the country. Aiming to make the market accessible all year round, the distillery is first hosting a festive edition, celebrating the quality of small businesses. Opened by Welsh TV presenter and celebrity Sian Lloyd, Aber Falls are hoping to connect the community to local businesses at the market to encourage the long-term loyalty between customers and nearby producers. The launch of the market also saw the presenting of the Local Hero campaign winner, Garry Frost. Garry worked relentlessly throughout lockdown volunteering for Blood Bikes Wales, supplying resources for the community over around 700 shifts, as well as providing sustenance to milk banks for premature babies. Nothing short of a legend. Selling produce at the market included Farmers preserves from Pembrokeshire, Feast Brothers with their Italian pasta dishes, and many more.
Returning with the three stars from this year’s Great Taste Awards for their Welsh Lamb Shoulder was Dolwen Welsh Lamb & Beef. Among the top 2% of entries, Glenda and Mike Crawshaw were left “gobsmacked” by the response and praise of their product. One of only 10 products across Wales to have earned the three stars, Dolwen’s hard work has paid off after being encouraged by their customers to enter the prestigious competition. Converting to organic in 2014, the farm’s lamb, black beef and hogget are popular with their loyal customers as they know where the produce is coming from. As well as the awardwinning lamb shoulder, the Welsh Black Beef is highly admired by its customers, delivered to their doorsteps in beef boxes. The boxes include topside/silverside joint, brisket/knuckle joint, a selection of steaks, diced, braising, minced beef, sausages and burgers. Wrapped in environmentally friendly ‘woolcool’, Dolwen’s boxes are sustainable due to the reduction in plastic packaging, as well as being sourced locally, leading to the support of smaller communities.
www.aberfallsdistillery.com
www.dolwenlambandbeef.co.uk
Victory is at Steak Ben Roberts, 29-year-old butcher, was among seven of the finalists at this year’s Butchery WorldSkills UK competition, and stole the bronze award at the competition, where one point separated the top four candidates. On the 11th and 12th of November, this group of talented butchers headed to Reaseheath College, Nantwich, seeking victory at this prestigious event. Roberts, who represented Wales on behalf of the Craft Butchery Team, stated, “I have wanted to compete at WorldSkills for several years but, until this year, have always struggled to dedicate the time needed to the competition to make it possible.” With 12 years of experience in the meat industry under his belt, Roberts felt he was ready to compete at WorldSkills and hopefully steal a win. Being the manager of a successful shop, he also hoped that the skills he will inevitably gain from the competition will benefit the prosperity of the business, returning the victor or not. Roberts will also be competing at the highly renowned, global World Butchers Challenge next September 2022, saying “Hopefully the skills and experience I gain from both competitions can be brought back into the business and one day allow me to run my own shop”.
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Royal Welsh Winter Fair Over the 29th and 30th of November 2021, the showground at Llanelwedd welcomed crowds from all over once again after a tumultuous couple of years for the Royal Welsh Winter Fair. With competitions, festivities and plenty of Christmas shopping opportunities, each day is also packed with 12 hours of entertainment, attractions and displays. As one of the highlights of prime stock events in Europe, this year’s Winter Fair saw the usual proceedings for its first time back since 2019. Hybu Cig Cymru were promoting sustainability at their stand, and how consumers can trust Welsh beef, lamb and pork in terms of climate friendly food purchases. With sensible precautions taken, producers enjoyed a busy couple of days and relished the opportunity to meet customers again and present some of the finest cuisine from across the country. The CEO of the Royal Welsh Agricultural Society, Steve Houghton described the Fair as celebrating “...everything that’s best in Wales...You can meet friends, have a chat with the politicians that are making the decisions, and you can influence change.”
News
In The Welsh Wind Award-winning Ceredigion distillery ‘In the Welsh Wind’ recently held an Open Weekend, opening up to the public and inviting the community in for the first time since the start of the COVID 19 pandemic. From tours and Q&A sessions to gin blending and tasting, and the popular ‘Mystery Gin’ tombola, everyone had an interesting and very informative time, and the distillery was busy on both Saturday and Sunday. If you missed it, don’t worry - the weekend was such a success that the ‘In the Welsh Wind’ team are already planning Open Weekends for 2022! The Tailor Your Gin experience is also available as a gift voucher. www.inthewelshwind.co.uk
Get Jerky Christmas selection box with a difference! Struggling to find a tasty Christmas gift for the special person in your life, a family member or a friend who loves a surprise? Then look no further than Trailhead Fine Food’s Get Jerky, which put in another star performance in this year’s Great Taste Awards, and their selection of Christmas gift tins on offer for the festive season. Trailhead makes its handmade, artisan, high protein, gluten free, low fat, beef jerky snacks in eight flavours, using responsibly sourced PGI Welsh Beef and marinated using secret, unique recipes. It’s the second year running that the company’s Teriyaki Beef Jerky has won a prestigious Great Taste one star award. Recognised for the first time was Original Beef Jerky, with the judges commenting: “The texture is wonderfully traditional and delivers deep, buttery beef flavour notes, with a clever back note reminiscent of kidney,” they added. “The spice level has complexity and depth.” The Christmas selection tins make a perfect festive or birthday gift. The Original 6, is a great introduction to the award-winning jerky whilst the Gourmet Gift Tin includes three snacks each of Teriyaki and Black Garlic & Ginger, ideal for a sophisticated palette. Finally, for those who like a bit of extra spice in their lives, there’s the Hot Ones Box, featuring two packets each of Spicy Chilli, Smoked Chipotle and fiery Devil’s Wrath. All selections come with a free gift of either a limited edition Get Jerky buff, which will keep the recipient’s neck and head warm in the outdoors this winter or a free tin of tasty Heartsease Farm sparkling presse. www.trailheadfinefoods.co.uk
New Vision Launched for Welsh Food and Drink Building on Wales’ recent success in the food and drink sector comes the ‘Vision for the food and drink industry from 2021’. This exciting new plan will help ensure a flourishing industry with a global recognition for greatness. Announcing these intentions at this year’s Royal Welsh Winter Fair was Lesley Griffiths, Rural Affairs Minister for North Wales, and Trefnydd. One of the Vision’s initial objectives is to proportionately expand Wales’ turnover in the food and drink industry more than the rest of the UK. From 2014 to 2020, the country’s goal was to reach the value of £7bn within the sector, which was proudly achieved. Now, the aim is to reach £8.5bn by 2025. Judging by the past success of the nation, the future of its food and drink industry looks bright, and the goal to achieve the turnover target is seemingly within reach. The plans also want to see an expansion in the threeyear average of hours worked, as well as an increase in a proportion of food and drink employees earning at least the Welsh Living Wage, with hopes of reaching 80% by 2025. Accreditation is another aspect of the industry that Wales thrives in, and that evidently has significant impact on business and the economy. Each year the Vision is to increase standards such as environmental management, staff development and production within the industry. By 2025, the Welsh sector hopes to see at least six more products joining the UK GI Scheme, and 98% of businesses achieving a 5-star rating.
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News
Highlighting Low Light Pollution Through Quality Food and Drink Astronomy meets gastronomy in the Cambrian Mountains of Wales, as local food, drink and craft producers make the most of world-class dark skies. Local producers have created their own food, drink and craft network inspired by the night sky, and launched new branded produce, in celebration of some of the darkest skies in the world. All this comes after a report published recently confirmed that 99% of the Cambrian Mountains night sky has the best dark skies thanks to extremely low levels of light pollution. Dà Mhìle Distillery launched their Cambrian Mountains Dark Skies Rum and have collaborated with Welsh Homestead Smokery to produce a special
A visit to Penderyn Distillery We at taste.blas were very excited to recently receive an invitation to the new Penderyn Distillery in Lloyd St, Llandudno. The site breathes a new lease of life into the renovated Old Board School in Lloyd Street, which was originally built back in 1881. In turn, it would be remiss to not feel excited for the distilling lessons to be learnt on our visit, as we entered the main building. All current mask protocols are followed to a tee, as you would expect on the grounds of such an institution (with hand sanitiser also freely available). The first impression of the shop is one of wonder with all the whisky, spirit, and merchandise offerings found in a tall, airy, glass-fronted building annexed onto the back of the original school.
edition smoked bacon! Another product inspired by the night sky is the fruity Morgan’s Brew Stargazer Tea Blend and for the ultimate cosmic caffeine hit, why not try the cacao orange tasting notes of Teifi Coffee’s Dark Skies coffee. Add local milk from Llaeth Llanfair or Gwarffynnon for a milky coffee under the Milky Way! Small family-run butchers Mathews Butchers has created star-shaped local beef and lamb burgers, Radnor Preserves has created a Dark Skies Preserve and Hathren has created the Galaxy Collection of brownies. For the young or even young at heart stargazer, why not slip a bar of Sarah Bunton’s Dark Skies chocolate into your backpack and you’re set for a great night out under the stars! Cambrian Mountains-inspired local produce was officially launched, in partnership with Dŵr Cymru/ Welsh Water, in October 2021 at the Elan Valley Visitor Centre near Rhayader, Powys.
A short wait in the exhibition area allowed us a moment to appreciate a large ‘bookmark’, which wound its way around the double-height room. This offered an insight into some of the physical and cultural history of the local area. Also present was the story of Penderyn and some of the characters that were involved in the creation of the first Welsh whisky over a century ago, which began at the eponymous village in the Brecon Beacons. In keeping with the literary theme, there was a large pop-up book incorporating the actual school building. We then met our guide for the day, who was both charming and knowledgeable, taking us first to the distilling hall. This was where the magic happened: a large expanse, complete with wonderful roof timbers. We were told in captivating detail how Penderyn is made: from the mill for crushing barley; to the mash tun (where the barley is added to hot water); into the fermenting tanks (where the barley beer is brewed ready for the still); and finally, onto the treasured copper Faraday Still. In particular, this is a unique still - producing spirit at 92% alcohol by volume (far higher than the industry standard). Our guide told us that this means that Penderyn’s whisky is “light, fruity and flavoursome,” and we also learnt of Penderyn recently adopting the use of uniquely Peated Barley. Penderyn’s whisky starts life in ex-Bourbon casks and are then finished in a variety of barrels, including Madeira, Portwood and Sherrywood. We were lucky enough to get a nose full of some of these distinct barrel flavours. After the main attraction, we were invited into the beautifully designed upstairs bar (fully accessible by lift). We enjoyed two whisky samples, with the offer of a miniature for designated drivers to enjoy safely at their own convenience. In all, the tour packed so much into just an hour and was a real treat to experience. The Penderyn Distillery is a wonderful addition to Llandudno and North Wales’ tourist trade - and we’ll definitely be back to school soon! Russell Morris www.penderyn.wales
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Tyfu busnes trwy gydweithio Growing business through collaboration
Mae Cywain yn rhaglen sydd wedi ymrwymo i ddatblygu busnesau bwyd a diod yng Nghymru.
Cywain is a project dedicated to developing food and drink businesses in Wales.
Ar gyfer busnesau sydd eisoes wedi sefydlu, mae Cywain yn arwain ar y Clwstwr Bwyd Môr, Clwstwr Mêl a’r Clwstwr Bwyd Da yng Nghymru.
For established businesses, Cywain leads on the Seafood Cluster, Honey Cluster and Fine Food Cluster in Wales.
Os hoffech chi wybod mwy am y Clystyrau a sut gall un o’r rhwydweithiau hyn eich cynorthwyo chi, cysylltwch â ni.
If you’d like to learn more about the Clusters and how one of these networks can benefit you and your business, please contact us.
Os ydych chi’n ystyried sefydlu neu am dyfu eich busnes bwyd a diod, mae Cywain yma i helpu. Cysylltwch â ni heddiw!
If you are looking to establish or grow your food and drink business, Cywain can help. Get in touch today!
Allforiwr o Sir Benfro, Nerys Edwards o Syren Shellfish, aelod o’r grŵp newydd Merched Mewn Pysgodfeydd Cymru. Pembrokeshire exporter, Nerys Edwards of Syren Shellfish, a member of the newly launched group Women In Welsh Fisheries.
Dilynnwch Cywain ar y gwefannau cymdeithasol: Follow Cywain on these social media platforms:
tfiyl cywain@menterabusnes.co.uk
Cronfa Amaethyddol Ewrop ar gyfer Datblygu Gwledig: Ewrop yn Buddsoddi mewn Ardaloedd Gwledig European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development: Europe Investing in Rural Areas
Restaurant Reviews
Palé Hall Hotel,
Near Bala, Snowdonia Palé Hall is a fairy-tale Gothic (actually ‘eclectic Jacobean’) pile in the hills between Bala and Llandderfel. Inside it, bright, attentive and brilliant staff appear to know what you want before you do. Log fires illumine. Paintings hang. Fascinatingly ornate woodwork abounds. It is, so far, Wales’s only recipient of a Michelin Green star, awarded in recognition of culinary excellence allied with eco-friendly commitments; recyclable materials, sustainability, employment of local produce and suppliers. The Hall is hydro-powered; it is entirely carbon neutral. Vegetables and herbs are taken from the grounds themselves, mere metres away from the kitchens in which the chef, Gareth Stevenson, works his magic. And oh what magic it is; this is truly the finest dining. The eight course tasting menu is a symphonic, exquisitely creative and sculptured joy to experience. Actually, the experience begins in the bar, with a canapé of deep fried, crispy choux with a core of sharp, molten cheddar; completely delicious. And it’s impossible to pick highlights from uniform excellence, so I’ll rely on random memory (I write this the day after my visit, and I’m still blissfully basking); the fluffy cushion of the bao bun with its filling of foraged mushroom all loam and distilled forest floor, fathoms of richness honed by the sherry vinegar sauce. The negroni mousse, as if a benign and magnanimous warlock had waved his wand over that staple cocktail and turned it into some fabulous froth. The roast brill with glazed celeriac cake, chive beurre blanc and truffle butter; the sheer skill of this dish, the balance of tastes and textures, was breathtaking. And oh, the cod loin; I bit once, and thought ‘a tad underdone’; I bit twice, and thought ‘no, overdone’; and at bite three I understood that no fish I’ve ever tasted has been cooked so flawlessly, so successfully. It came with a tangle of spaghetti squash, pumpkin puree, and crispy-thenmelty confit potato. Superb. And the cheese course; a wedge of Lincolnshire poacher alongside a crisp tartlet of cheese and chutney custard. The salt, the sweet, the hit of umami intensity humming in the head. And oh, the dessert course; crack through the roundel of white chocolate casing into the dark chocolate ganache and tangerine pulp. Chase it with the tartness of mango sherbet then settle into the mellowness of pistachio mousse and reach a place you’ll never want to leave. And there was succotash, with both seared and green corn, as it should be and as it hardly ever is in the UK. There were many other miraculous moments. There was the thrill of not knowing what astonishing morsels were going to be next delivered to our table. Try as I might, I cannot find even the mildest of gripes. Full, we were ushered by unique cocktails (Christmas cocktails, crafted by Christopher) into a bed the size of a field, woke to bathe in a tub the size of a swimming pool, and then ate kippers, whose utter deliciousness must be celebrated in song and legend. Perfection is the only word. Niall Griffiths
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Tel: 01678 530285 www.palehall.co.uk
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All gins bright and beautiful. Visit us www.welshsisters.com Manchester House New Quay SA45 9QJ
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Recipes
Welsh Beef madras
Serves 4-6 Prep time 20 minutes Cook time 2 hours 30 minutes
• • •
Ingredients
To serve • Natural yogurt • Fresh coriander leaves, chopped • Rice • Side salad of diced tomato, cucumber and red onion
• • • • • • • • • • • •
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675g PGI Welsh Beef chuck steak, cubed Seasoning 2 tbsp oil 2 large onions, peeled and sliced 1 red pepper, diced 3 garlic cloves, crushed Fresh root ginger (3cm piece), grated 1 tbsp ground turmeric 1 tbsp garam masala 1 tsp ground cumin 1 red chilli, finely chopped ½ tsp chilli flakes
400g tin of chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato purée 400ml beef stock
Method 1.
Heat the oil in a large pan or flameproof casserole dish, add the beef and fry until browned. Add the seasoning, onion, pepper, garlic, ginger and spices and stir gently for a few minutes.
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2.
Add the remaining ingredients and bring to the boil. Cover with a lid or foil and continue cooking on the hob or place in the oven at 180˚C / fan 160˚C / Gas 4. Cook for approximately 2 hours 30 minutes until the beef is tender. You may need to add a little extra stock.
3.
Spoon into bowls, add a dollop of yogurt and sprinkle with chopped coriander. Serve with rice and a side salad of diced tomato, cucumber and red onion.
Tip: This recipe is also suitable for the slow cooker
Recipes
Festive porc traybake
Serves: 4 | Prep Time: 30 minutes | Cooking Time: 40 minutes
This one tray meal is ideal for festive family mealtimes, when all you want is to enjoy some hearty food that will cook away on its own while you put your feet up!
Ingredients • •
4 porc cutlets or chops 8-12 pigs in blankets
For the marinade: • • • •
2 satsumas, juiced 1 tbsp oil 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp honey
For the vegetables: •
400g parsnips, peeled and halved or
• • • • • • • •
quartered 350g small potatoes 2 red onions, cut into wedges 250g sprouts, halved if large 2 pears, quartered 2 satsumas, halved 2 tbsp oil seasoning 1 tsp dried sage
3.
Place the potatoes and parsnips in a pan of boiling water and cook for 8 minutes, then drain.
4.
In a large bowl mix together the oil, seasoning and dried sage. Add all the fruit and vegetables, including the potatoes and parsnips; mix well and transfer into a roasting tray.
5.
Place the porc and pigs in blankets on top of the vegetables, add any remaining marinade, and cook for approximately 30 minutes until the meat is cooked.
6.
After 30 minutes remove the porc and loosely wrap it in foil to rest. Check that the vegetables are cooked and browned – you may need to put them back in the oven for a further 10 minutes.
7.
Serve spooned into shallow bowls accompanied by some chunky fresh bread.
Method 1.
Preheat the oven to 200ºC / 180ºC fan / Gas 6.
2.
In a small bowl, mix together the ingredients for the marinade and pour over the porc cutlets or chops, ensuring both sides are coated. Leave to stand for at least 20 minutes while you prepare the vegetables.
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Recipes
Christmas spiced Welsh Lamb casserole
Prep time: 25 mins Cook time: approx. 2 hrs 30 mins Serves: 4-6
Ingredients • • • • • • • • • •
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650g PGI Welsh Lamb trimmed boneless shoulder or boneless neck fillets, cut into cubes 2 red onions, peeled and sliced 3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 3cm fresh ginger, grated 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1 tsp ground cinnamon Seasoning 300ml lamb stock 300ml mulled wine (or extra stock) Bouquet garni made with 2 cinnamon sticks, sprig of rosemary and bunch of thyme
• • • • •
2 star anise 100g medjool dates, halved 75g dried cranberries 100g plum tomatoes, cut into wedges 1 tbsp brown sugar
Method 1.
Preheat the oven to 180°C / 160°C fan / Gas 4.
2.
Place the lamb, onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, cinnamon and seasoning in a slow cooker or in an ovenproof casserole dish. Stir, then add the mulled wine and stock.
3.
Make the bouquet garni by tying the cinnamon sticks and herbs together with string.
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4.
Place the bouquet garni in the casserole dish with the star anise. Stir well. Cover with a lid and place in the oven for 1 hour 30 minutes – 2 hours until the meat is fairly tender (in a slow cooker: 2 hours on the high setting or 4 hours on the low setting).
5.
Remove the lid and add the dates, cranberries, tomatoes and sugar. Stir well.
6.
Cover with the lid and return to the oven for a further 45 minutes (1 hour in the slow cooker).
7.
Serve with creamy mashed potatoes.
Tip: Suitable to cook in the oven or slow cooker.
Recipes
Parsnip, Pecan and Polenta Loaf
Christmas Eve. I like the light this morning with the sun low in the sky. With presents still unwrapped and family to visit, I wander through the woods seeking stillness. Tonight, I’ll make a festive loaf for tomorrow’s lunch, or in all likelihood, dinner. We’ve always eaten late on Christmas Day, taking our time to open presents and enjoy a couple of drinks. Tomorrow, we’ll take a morning stroll, so I need something ready to pop in the oven while I make the side dishes. This loaf is rich and moist – much tastier than turkey in my opinion – and it really sings for its supper. I make this listening to Carols from Kings, a tradition as familiar to me as Santa and stockings. This is Christmas. 1 hour 30 minutes, plus cooling time | Serves 3-4
• • • • • • • • • • •
2 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 small carrot, peeled and diced 3 shallots, peeled and diced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 4-5 fresh sage leaves, snipped with scissors
stir well. If the mixture seems dry, add a little more oat milk or water and mix again. Take half the pecans and roughly break into pieces, then tip into the mixture and stir well. Press all of the loaf mixture into the prepared loaf tin. Pack it down as firmly as you can as this will help it hold together after cooling.
3.
Bake the loaf uncovered for 45-50 minutes until the edges start to darken and the loaf is semi-firm to the touch. Place the loaf tin directly onto a cooling rack for 15 minutes. Then, slide a knife around the ends to loosen, and carefully lift out the loaf tin (using the greaseproof paper as ‘handles’) and place it directly onto the cooling rack for another 30 minutes. Decorate the top of the loaf with the rest of the pecans.
4.
After cooling, carefully slice the loaf into slabs and serve. Drizzle over a little extra maple syrup when serving, if you like.
Method 1.
Ingredients • • • • •
(or use 1 tsp dried sage) 1 x 400g can chickpeas, rinsed and drained 3-4 large parsnips (around 300g), peeled and grated 100g quick-cook polenta 1 tsp ground allspice 1 tbsp apple cider or balsamic vinegar 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp maple syrup The juice of 1 orange 150g pecans 50ml oat milk Salt and pepper)
2.
Preheat the oven to 180C. Grease a 9×5 inch loaf tin, and then line it with a piece of greaseproof paper cut to fit the length of the pan. In a large pan, fry the shallots, garlic, sage and carrot in the oil over a medium heat for 5-6 minutes. Tip the chickpeas into a large bowl and roughly mash. Add the grated parsnip and all the other ingredients (apart from the pecans), plus the fried shallot mixture and
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Recipe from The Seasonal Vegan, Sarah Philipott. Published by Seren. £12.99. Photos by Mannon Houston.
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Recipes
Chocolate Yule Log
With the festive season fast approaching, it’s a good time to brush up on your baking skills. Inspired by The Great British Bake Off, this is a chance for you to spend some quality time in the kitchen baking a family treat: a chocolate yule log.
4.
Ingredients For the sponge: • 3 large eggs • 75g caster sugar • 50g plain flour • 25g cocoa powder Cream filling: • 300g Double cream • 150g Caster sugar Ganache topping: • 300g Double Cream • 300g Dark chocolate
5.
6.
Pre-heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4
2.
Grease and line a 16 x 28cm Swiss roll tin with baking parchment
3.
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While preparing for the sponge, it is recommended you use an electric whisk
11. Whisk up some double cream with some caster sugar for the filling.
Using an electric whisk, mix the eggs and sugar together until they become pale and thick. Then add half of the flour/coco powder mix into the egg mixture and use a metal spoon to lightly stir in, cutting through the mix then folding onto itself.
12. Once the sponge is ready remove from the oven and tip out onto a sugared baking parchment, which will stop it stocking when being rolled.
This technique ensures the flour is fully and carefully mixed into the eggs without over-beating the mixture. Over-beating will make the baked sponge dense and stop it from rising. Add the remaining flour and continue with the folding.
7.
Pour the mixture into the tin and spread evenly, again doing this gently ensuring that the tin is as even as possible.
8.
Bake in the oven for around 10-12 minutes, until golden and firm. If the sponge is over-baked it will crack once rolled.
Method 1.
or a kitchen aid as doing this by hand can take some time.
9.
The ganache should comprise equal quantities of cream and chocolate.
10. Heat up the double cream until it comes to a boil, then pour over the chocolate and whisk together.
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13. When cooled, peel off the lined paper and spread the cream over the sponge. Try not to over fill and leave some space around the edge of the sponge as, when it’s being rolled, the mix will spread to the sides. 14. Start on the short edge and fold over the corner, using the parchment paper to help roll the sponge towards you, which is easier control. Continue until the whole sponge is rolled, then pour over the ganache and use a fork to spread, giving it a wood effect. Techniques used: folding, whisking and baking. Baking a chocolate yule log develops skills learnt by apprentices when working towards a Foundation Apprenticeship in Professional Cookery Level 2 and covers preparing, cooking and finishing basic cakes, sponges, biscuits and scones. For more information about Apprenticeships contact Cambrian Training Company at cambriantraining.com or Tel: 01938 555893
Recipes
Walnut Turrón and Chestnut Honey Parfait, Salted Walnut Brittle, Riojapoached Pears Serves 8 Turrón, a type of nougat, is famous throughout Spain, where it is considered a must-have at Easter and Christmas. It comes in two basic different forms – soft, which has the consistency of peanut butter, and hard, which resembles peanut brittle. It is a great snack to enjoy with a coffee, but we also love to incorporate it into things such as ice creams and parfaits, and to use it in ‘liquid’ form for spreading. The dessert is handy to have in the freezer, and the salted brittle keeps well in an airtight container.
Ingredients • • • • •
3 eggs, separated 2 tsp caster sugar, plus an extra pinch 100g chestnut honey 1 vanilla pod, split open lengthways 310ml double cream 2.
For the poached pears • ½ bottle (375ml) young unoaked Rioja or other unoaked red wine • 65g granulated sugar • 2 cloves • 1 cinnamon stick • 1 strip of lemon zest • 1 vanilla pod, reserved from parfait • 3 hard, squat pears, preferably Comice or Williams • Lemon juice, to taste
Place a large sheet of non-stick baking parchment on a work surface. Place the walnuts in a bowl and stir in all the liquid caramel. Pour the mixture onto the parchment and spread thinly. This will harden to form the brittle. When set, use a rolling pin to break it into pieces. Transfer these to a blender and blitz into coarse grains.
3.
To make the parfait, place the egg yolks, caster sugar, chestnut honey and vanilla seeds in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Whisk until the mixture becomes light and frothy, before then thickening into a custard consistency. Remove from the heat.
Method
4.
Place the egg whites in another bowl, add a pinch of extra caster sugar and whisk into soft peaks. In another bowl, whisk the cream into soft peaks.
5.
Fold the walnut caramel grains into the custard, then fold in the whipped cream, and finally the whipped egg whites. Pour the mixture into a lidded plastic container and place in the freezer overnight, making sure it is flat.
For the walnut brittle • 145g caster sugar • 125ml water • 100g walnuts, lightly crushed
1.
First make the walnut brittle. Place the sugar and water in a saucepan over a high heat and bring to the boil. Continue heating and stirring until it develops into a caramel the colour of light mahogany. When it reaches this point, remove immediately from the heat.
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6.
To make the poached pears, put the wine in a pan with the sugar, spices and lemon zest and bring to the boil, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Meanwhile, peel, halve and core the pears and add them to the wine mixture. Place a circle of baking parchment directly on top of the fruit and cook over a medium heat until a knife goes into the pears with only a little resistance. The time this takes can vary, depending on the ripeness of the fruit.
7.
Transfer the pears to a plate to cool, then reduce the liquor in the pan to a syrupy consistency. Add some lemon juice, tasting until you reach your preference.
8.
Cut the cooled pears into small dice and add to the wine syrup.
9.
To serve, add a slice of parfait to each plate, then top with the pears in wine syrup.
Recipe from Bar 44 Tapas y Copas, Owen and Tom Morgan. Published by Seren. £25.00 Photo by Matt Inwood.
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Recipes
Pot Roast Pheasant
PREP TIME 15 minutes COOK TIME 1 hr 20 minutes INGREDIENTS Serving 4 - 6
Ingredients • • • • • • • • • •
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2 ready to roast pheasant (800-900g) 20g salted butter 4 slices smoked streaky bacon or pancetta 1 large leek 3 sticks celery 2 carrots 2 bay leaves 6 sprigs thyme 350ml chicken stock 150ml dry Welsh white wine
Method 1.
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4 (160C fan)
2.
Prepare the vegetables by peeling and chopping into the same size pieces around 3cm each and roughly chop the bacon into similar size pieces.
3.
In an ovenproof dish (large enough to hold both birds) melt half the butter over medium to high heat and brown the pheasant on all sides for about 8-10 minutes then remove and set aside.
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4.
Add the remaining butter then add the bacon, celery and carrots for 10 minutes until they begin to soften then add the leek and stir well and remove from the heat. Lay both pheasants on top of the vegetables and bacon and season with salt and pepper.
5.
Pour over the stock, wine and herbs and put a lid on top of the dish and roast for 1 hour until the bird is cooked through. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes before serving
6.
Remove the pheasant from the dish and carve and serve with the vegetables and jus along with mashed potatoes.
UNIQUELY WELSH. FREE TO GR AZE... Welsh livestock farmers know that if you look after the environment, the environment will look after you. For centuries, they have played a pivotal role in creating and maintaining the spectacularly beautiful rural landscapes that we know and love, and their sustainable management has helped create a diverse rural environment that is rich in wildlife and visitor-friendly, thanks to a network of footpaths maintained by farmers. While the impact of agriculture on climate change is currently a very hot topic, it’s important to remember that there are huge variations in the environmental impact of different farming systems across the world, with Wales being especially suited for rearing cattle and sheep. Here are some key differences between the Welsh way of agriculture and that found in other parts of the world…
The vast majority (80%) of Welsh farmland is unsuitable for growing crops, therefore raising cattle and sheep is the most efficient way to turn marginal land into high quality food. The Welsh way of farming is largely non-intensive: unlike other parts of the world, where water resources are depleted or significant land is used to grow feed, Welsh sheep and cattle are overwhelmingly reared on our natural resources – grass and rainwater. Grassland in the Welsh hills captures carbon from the atmosphere, and Welsh farmers make a positive contribution to mitigating climate change; managing this grassland by combining traditional practices with new innovation.
The Welsh way of farming has a very different story to tell compared with some of the intensive and industrial systems found in other parts of the world. With high standards of animal husbandry and pasture land management, our family-run farms have helped preserve our unique landscape for generations, and will continue to do so for generations to come.
Food and Drink
Tasty Morsels Food and drink reviews to tantalise your taste buds Devil’s Bridge Rum Inspired by a legendary Welsh tale, Devil’s Bridge Rum is a true reflection of Wales’ sense of storytelling and folklore. The story is well known – an old lady’s cunning plan to trick the devil into building a bridge over the Rheidol Gorge and it’s the inspiration behind the flavours of this quite uniquely flavoured rum. Devil’s Bridge Rum is initially matured in ex-bourbon barrels in the simmering heat of the Caribbean before being shipped to Wales where it’s steeped with that most traditional of Welsh delicacies, Bara Brith fruit loaf, and married to Glengettie black tea and Shirgar Carmarthenshire butter before finishing off with expertly chosen botanicals and spices, principally cardamon and vanilla. It’s 42% ABV to bring out the best of its ingredients. The first thing to note is the exceptional bottle – a red matt finish, with intricate artwork that acknowledges and references its Welsh inspiration. Once opened, it’s best described as akin to the waft you get immediately after opening a packet of Bara Brith - full-on, spicy, baked fruit-bread aromas but very well balanced. As you inhale you then pick up the sweet molasses of the rum spirit itself. Combining with the strong flavour of Bara Brith on the palate are the more complex flavours of vanilla, cardamom and bourbon – all wonderful stuff but what is also remarkable is how smooth this rum is. There’s no burn and whilst it delivers bold flavours, they aren’t too overpowering. Its smoothness and complexity make it a great sipping rum that you can easily enjoy neat, all night long but it’s great with a mixer too – we tried it with Llanllyr Source ginger beer and thanks to its boldness, it really held its own against the ginger kick of the mixer. Devil’s Bridge’s premium approach to rum will appeal first and foremost to rum fans. It has a unique flavour profile, tastes great and can be drunk neat. But it will also appeal to anyone used to gin who wants to expand their horizons, or maybe those that don’t find gin interesting enough, and are looking for something that’s an intriguing alternative. It’s a fine example of the new breed of premium artisan rum producers’ handiwork and with a genuine Wales inspired take. But don’t take our word for it. Since launching, Devil’s Bridge Rum has been showered with awards: Gold at the London Spirit Competition; Gold at the World Rum Awards; Bronze at the International Spirits Challenge. We Welsh always knew what a great combo our native fruit-loaf, tea and butter are – but who would have guessed what adding them to rum could achieve? £39 from www.devilsbridgerum.com
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Aber Falls Single Malt Welsh Whisky 2021 Release This is the long awaited, much lauded and first widely available edition of Aber Falls whisky – the first whisky distillery in North Wales for over 100 years. You may know Aber Falls from their award-winning gins and liqueurs but the ambition from the very start was to make malt whisky. But that process takes time, patience and a great deal of skill, a lot of it. And now we’re finally here. Matured in bourbon, sherry and raw oak casks and made with Welsh barley, using soft North Waleian water, distilled in the shadow of Snowdonia – you couldn’t get more Welsh if you served it with a leek. But, as one must, we have to put all romantic notions of Welshness in a whisky to one side. Whilst I don’t profess to have the nose and palate of a master distiller I’ve been fond of malt whiskies for many years and in a blind test, know my way round the subtle, and not so subtle variations. So where does Aber Falls sit? This an easy relaxed whisky, that doesn’t shout at you – it’s more a gentle conversation that gets increasingly interesting as the evening progresses. On the nose and initially on the palate it has the easy-going nature of a lowland malt – vanilla, toffee and fruit – and shares the smoothness, with a distinct absence of any harsh burning sensation. Then you start to notice the more complex sweet sherry notes, the spice and dried fruit and you begin to realise that its easy going nature belies hidden depths that are more reminiscent of a classic Speyside. So you persevere to find out what else is lurking – bourbon, coffee, nuts, dark chocolate. Then there’s the long finish – more vanilla, dried fruit, sherry and berries. And yet, it is different from both a Speyside and a Lowland – perhaps down to the water – and just as complex in its own way. And the longer you indulge the more you learn of and appreciate these subtle complexities, in what is a very fine whisky. £26 available from assorted retailers and www.aberfallsdistillery.com
Morgan’s Brew Tea Establishing a tearoom in 2006, Morgan’s Brew Tea Company grew rapidly as regulars realised the tea was too good not to take home. Geoff and Anne at Morgan’s have since created a wide range of teas brimming with delicious flavours and combinations - with Chai, decaffeinated, Earl Grey, herbal, smoked, Green, fruit and traditional, there is something for everyone.
Food and Drink
Part of their new Cambrians Mountains range, Stargazer is a stunning Green tea blend specifically designed to keep you awake so you can admire the Cambrian night sky into the early hours. But it’s not just the caffeine that’s the attraction. Lemongrass, apple, hibiscus, mango, orange peel and sunflower petals add great depth of flavour that’s sweet fruit and slightly sharp at the same time. Think a more complex, more powerful take on Earl Grey and you’re in the right ball-park. A wonderful tea. A pleasant contrast is their Hibiscus herbal tea, a more delicate and altogether more subtle, but no less delightful, brew. It’s also quite tart but with a gentler, more cranberry-like flavour. Perfect for the evening when a caffeine-free option is wiser. Lastly, we come to the Winter Berries blend. The aroma just screams Christmas, conjuring cosy nights in front of a roaring fire. Sweet, heady, aromatic. With a dash of sugar, the winter spice and fruit really sings as it swirls over the tongue and that aroma lingers long in the nose. Lovely. All three are a great illustration of what a tea master blender can achieve with skill, imagination and high quality ingredients.
On advice we tried it with a cooked breakfast – a match made in heaven! It’s worth saying that this and the Sweet Chilli jam both have a smooth consistency and are not ‘set’ like a fruit jam. Ok. First thing’s first. Don’t try Reepers Creepers sauce neat. It’s not big. It’s not clever. We tried it, in a macho moment. And regretted it. Not immediately but within seconds, as the heat builds and builds. Far better to add it in increments to bring life and depth to your favourite Indian, and where it’s heat and flavour, of which there is plenty, thanks to its sweet, smoky, garlic profile, can be much better appreciated. We’re officially stupid because we then discovered Scorpions Bite is not something you should have neat either. In our defence we tried only a minute sliver but it’s way hotter. It’s also ‘drier’ and more about the chilli, which has a sweet, fruity taste, and is perfect for spicing up Mexican food. Chillies may not be something you’d associate with Wales, but Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm have turned up the heat on any notion that we can’t succeed at whatever we try to produce. Jams £4, Sauces £6 and assorted retail from www.pembrokeshirechillifarm.com
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Welsh Sisters the Captain’s Wife ‘Portside’ Special Edition Gin
Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm’s sauces, jams and spices come from the freshly grown chillies of all kinds of heats and colours, picked fresh from their greenhouse and straight into the pot where Owen and Michelle work their magic. Their jams and sauces range from medium to hot, all with their own character, delivering flavours from tropical to cider. PCF also have their very own spice grinders and snack selection for added heat. Sweet Chilli Jams generally tend to be sweet and hot. PCF’s is different as, whilst it has got some heat, and yes, it is sweet, the over-riding taste element is the flavour of the chillies and peppers themselves – peppery, herbal and woody almost – a sign that you’re eating something with minimal processing and little added, little taken away. It’s clear there’s been a real effort to preserve the taste integrity of those wonderful Pembrokeshire grown chillies. Their chipotle jam is a wee bit hotter but still takes the same approach – it’s a lesson in using great, fresh unadulterated produce, no junk and a wealth of expertise, gained stood over stoves for countless hours, to get the perfect outcome. And it’s one that lets the flavour of the smoked chipotle chillies really shine – dark, rich smoke, a hot tang and ocean deep flavour.
Welsh Sisters are Tania and Becky, in the Ceredigion coastal village of New Quay. They have a passion for the sea, the women who’ve inspired them and gin. Passions that they’ve brought together in their range of award-winning gins. Using boldly unconventional botanicals to tell the story of the women who’ve always played a huge part in Welsh coastal communities they produce small batch dry gin hand-crafted from a coastal distillery in West Wales. First there was Morwyn, a unique coastal dry gin infused with Gorse flower, Angelica root, Sage and Grapefruit and tells the tale of Morwyn, a powerful Sea Goddess in the ancient kingdom of Ceredigion. Then came The Captain’s Wife, inspired by a Welsh Woman’s voyage on the Trade Wind Routes from Wales to South America, with a base of fragrant Juniper Berries paired with Andalucian Lemon, Fig and Yerba Mate tea. And here we have Portside, a special edition of Yerba Mate tea, pomegranate, bay and other fine botanicals, that has been matured and tinged pink in port casks. Named after the rowdy parties thrown by the Captain’s Wife when ashore on her travels, it’s a sophisticated and complex gin with a powerful hit of pomegranate assuaged by the sweetness of port. It can be sipped on its own to fully appreciate its ruby rich flavours and aroma, which have a wee hint of a good whisky about them, or mixed with a small measure of a Mediterranean mixer to unleash the flavour of the pomegranate. A great and rather different addition to any gin collection. £45 from www.welshsisters.co.uk
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Food and Drink
Pantri Swswen Conserves Returning from the Great Taste Awards with three stars accreditation and third place in the Golden Fork, Pantri Swswen offer an extensive range of marmalades, chutneys, conserves, jams, jellies and preserves. Based on their smallholding in Caersws, Powys, Lizzie and her husband set up Pantri Swswen because of Lizzie’s love of cooking growing up. Named after both the Roman Queen Swswen, who fought amongst the hills of Mid Wales, and the ‘Sws’ from Caersws, the Pantri’s name also derives from the ‘Swswen’s translation to ‘White Kiss’. Pantri Swswen follows the same methods and recipes used by Lizzie’s family when she began preserving, baking and cooking at her home in the 80s. Using local resources, Pantri Swswen’s products are a true representation of Wales. Winning the awards this year was their Blackcurrant Conserve that’s made with local blackcurrants. Suspended in a thick fruit syrup, the blackcurrants hold their shape in this conserve resulting in a sublime consistency. It delivers the perfect mixture of sweetness and tartness that lets the complex flavours of the fruit shine. The taste is exquisite and develops into an explosion of deep, intense blackcurrant flavour. Their Four Fruit Marmalade & Welsh Rum is equally as exquisite, erupting with tangy and zesty flavours that come from a combination of oranges, ruby grapefruit, lemons, limes, and not to mention Da Mhile’s very own new Dark Skies Organic Rum. The perfect addition to breakfast to put a spring in your step to start the day. www.pantriswswen.co.uk
Dragon Handcrafted Cheese South Caernarfon Creameries, the cooperative behind Dragon cheeses, is a collective of 154 farmer members that create their cheese using 100% Welsh milk. Dragon now have a range of handcrafted cheeses as well as their popular Mature and Mild Cheddars that are sold in supermarkets all across Wales. Each of their cheeses are incredibly popular with customers and many have won prestigious awards, proving Dragon’s taste is on a different level. Their handcrafted Slate Cavern-Aged Cheddar is a wonderfully moreish and rich savoury cheese. The cheddar is not overly moist but it still possesses a creamy, firm texture. Matured in Llechwedd Slate Caverns, the depth of flavour of this cheese comes from having been aged 500 feet underground in the Blaenau Ffestiniog caves for several months. As a twist on Dragon’s original cheddar, the cavern-aged nature of this handcrafted cheese results in a unique and uniquely Welsh historical product. With 5% Penderyn Whisky added, the Cavern-Aged Cheddar with Whisky has an extra depth of flavour that introduces a luxurious richness that complements rather than distracts from its classic Cheddar taste. It delivers the perfect balance of savoury cheddar with malty, madeira cask whisky notes. The infusion of Penderyn Whisky and cavernous roots gives this
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cheese its slightly crumbly texture. Originally the Welsh Mature Cheddar, it is then cold smoked which introduces its smoky edge. Delicately wood, we suspect maple, smoked, Dragon’s Smoked Mature Cheddar holds a firm texture with a lovely balance as the cheddar tang and depth is complemented by the smoke. A strong and seriously memorable cheese. www.dragonwales.co.uk
In The Welsh Wind ‘Tailor Your Gin’ West Wales now has a distillery with big ambitions, which includes whisky, who though relatively new on the scene are growing rapidly and creating a real impact. Thanks in no small part to the drive and talent of founder Ellen, who has recently been shortlisted for the NatWest Everywoman Awards 2021. One of their creative initiatives is their web-based ‘Tailor Your Gin Online Experience’ which they kindly invited us to try. This is the virtual, and covid restriction friendly, version of their make your own gin visitor centre experience and is a remarkably simple but clever way for customers to make their own recipe gin from the comfort of their own home. It can also be bought as a gift voucher – the perfect present for a gin connoisseur. This is how it works. Find the Tailor Your Gin page on their website. Then choose your base spirit recipe from the dropdown list, which also has an explanation of what’s in each recipe. Choices range from Clasurol (a classic gin base) right through to the more adventurous Oren a Sinsir (orange and ginger). We pitched in the middle with Canoldir, a Mediterranean base. Then you move on to your ‘hero’ botanicals, of which you can select three. They could be all the same, for a powerful hit, or entirely different and are picked from drop down menus in a three step process – hero one, hero two and hero three. Each menu is identical and includes eleven options from safe bets such as juniper to more unusual choices such as cornflower or rhubarb, each with a description of its impact on your gin. Initially we plumped for Earl Grey, Lemon Verbena and Gobi Berry but, and this is the comforting bit for those of you who may be a little nervous, ITWW’s master distillers advised the Earl Grey
Food and Drink would be overpowering so changed tack and went for pineapple instead.
imparts a delicious honey flavour to the fruit (and vice versa).
You then decide on a name for your spirit and a distillery name, taste.blas in our case, add to your cart, check out and wait a few days for the magic to happen and be delivered to your door. So, what was our gin like? Having no real idea what to expect we were pleasantly surprised with the result – it was dry, refreshing, quite herbal with a slight menthol aroma and perfectly sippable on its own, though at its best complemented by a good mixer. The process is easy, smooth, swift and great fun. And very reasonably priced at £50 making the voucher a very viable present. It’s also something you could do regularly to impress family and friends, or just for selfgratification, especially if you’re a gin fanatic.
The blackcurrant jam was tart, yet sweet with a lovely, plump blackcurrant hit but the honey adds a richness and so much depth and complexity. Likewise, the strawberry jam – mellow and sweet but with all enveloping depth. The plum followed a similar pattern with plum and honey in perfect harmony. Rhubarb and Ginger was an unexpected triumph with the honey more than a match for the wallop of rhubarb and ginger. The marmalade was the most intriguing of all – as the honey and orange are so well-balanced and work brilliantly together.
www.inthewelshwind.co.uk/products
Calon Wen Organic Butter You’ll most likely know Calon Wen for their organic milk but the Narbeth based co-operative of 25 organic, family-run dairy farms from across Wales, do more than that and harbour plans to do a lot more. Plans which include building further on relationships with other like-minded producers of Welsh food and drink, to sell produce in hampers and through their website. In addition to milk, Calon Wen currently have their own range of cheese and two butters – in spreadable and a traditional block. And it’s the butters that we’ve had the pleasure of sampling. Made from rich cream from cows fed on lush pastures, their butters, though lightly salted, are not overly salty, relying instead on a great tasting, lustrous creamy flavour that wraps itself around your taste-buds, velvety smooth and exactly as a great butter should be. Due to its oil content spreadable will always struggle for taste when directly compared to a traditional but this one has the same signature creamy taste profile, that puts it on another level compared to most spreadables, but keeps the convenience. Both are butters as they should be and as older readers will remember, and they’re a wonderful high-street, sustainably produced, Welsh alternative to mainstream brands. Available in supermarkets and from www.calonwen-cymru.com
Pen Y Bryn Honey Jam Once in a while you come across a story that warms the cockles of your heart. Pen Y Bryn’s is one. Back in 1930, Carys Edward’s grandfather had a problem. A colony of bees had nested in the garden on the family hill farm. Not wanting to destroy them but needing to protect family from a potential swarm, he encouraged the colony to relocate into a tea chest, which was then moved a safe distance away. 90 years on that single colony now numbers over 150 of mainly Welsh Native Black Bees and forms the backbone of Carys’s apiary business. Still on the family farm, she produces award winning honey, has a world-renowned reputation and is herself a judge in national honey competitions. She has also launched a range of honey jams where much of the sugar is replaced by honey, making it healthier, thanks to the myriad good stuff in honey. It also
Don’t think of these as conventional jams per se, with honey added in – they may be fruit-based and have the same consistency but they are a hybrid taste-wise, as the honey is fundamental and completely changes the flavour profile, and that’s what makes Carys’ jams so special. From £3 www.penybrynhoney.com
Dà Mhìle Dark Skies Rum Llandysul based Dà Mhìle Distillery have gained national and international recognition since opening their organic distillery in 1992 its owners having already established award-winning Caws Teifi Cheese a couple of decades earlier. After years of distilling their own organic whisky, Dà Mhìle have more recently branched out into making gin, brandy, vodka and liqueurs. And October saw the launch of Dà Mhìle’s Dark Skies Organic Rum, a spirit that’s inspired by the fantastic views seen at night surrounding the Cambrian Mountains, where Dà Mhìle are based. Dà Mhìle teamed up with the Cambrian Mountains Initiative, an organisation attracting stargazers, photographers and astronomers to the low-level light pollution area to make this wonderful new rum. Aged in oak, the initial woodiness combines with rich and aromatic Christmas spices on the nose, but without losing the distinctive rum aroma bestowed by molasses spirit. While Dark Skies can be enjoyed with a good mixer, to really savour all its subtle qualities it should be sipped neat in our view. In the mouth, it’s mellow, yet complex and very smooth. In some respects, its many subtle flavours are reminiscent of a good Speyside or maybe even an upmarket brandy, with its spicy wood tones, added to which is a little sweetness with notes of mince pie, vanilla and raisin. This is a fantastic new addition to the Dà Mhìle range, and it will appeal to anyone who is already a proper fan of rum as it’s a great example. It has the USP of organic accreditation but it will also appeal to gin afficionado’s looking to branch out into a spirit that’s more challenging, or anyone who appreciates a fine whisky but wants to try something that’s different, still compelling and has all the nuances of a good malt. £36 from www.damhile.co.uk
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Central Eating Myfanwy Alexander Being conscious of the seasons makes me sound rather zen, as I stand barefoot in fields letting the rhythms of nature flow through me but in fact, I measure the calendar in terms of the volume and temperature of draughts rattling around and within my ancient house. It’s not that we are badly situated, with a shoulder of hill to fend of the ‘wind of dead men’s feet’ as my father always called an easterly gale. The problem, rather, is that when this place was built, all the potential local building control officers had followed Henry VII down to Bosworth so it often feels as if the weather has come indoors. Dark evenings and draughts call for warming food so now is the time to stew and simmer to create the sort of dishes which radiate warmth. There’s an alchemy in a stew, the melding together of homely ingredients into a steaming whole, the savoury equivalent of a fruit cake where the whole is way greater than the sum of the parts. It is also a good way to stock up on seasonal root vegetables, many of which have fallen from fashion. Come on, admit it: we have all looked at a swede and wondered frankly, if we can be bothered with it. There is something rather sad about the overshadowing of the swede by flashy celeriac or those little turnips which always look to me like miniature poodle-ish vegetables. I have a long history with the modest swede. On long walks in my teens, I would pull them up from the fields where they had been planted, peel the muddy skins away from the golden sharp flesh and chomp as I walked, pausing every now and again to peel away more skin and wipe away more mud. The flavour was sharp and surprisingly complex, combing rather ferocious citrus with the earthy depths of beetroot, and there was plenty of juice. I’ve also won a half-hundred weight sack of swedes in a whist drive, which is a chance one never gets with celeriac, at least not round here. It’s a family favourite when blitzed in a food processor with lots of cream and black pepper, third favourite vegetable to have with a roast, beaten only by lemony carrots and braised red cabbage. But best of all, swedes do so much for a stew. But as Meghan Trainor almost said, it’s not all about that swede. If you’re into snout to tail zero waste eating, stews can turn the less than prime cuts into
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melting perfection. And with so much fantastic local meat available here in Wales, remember you can really cut down on your food miles too. There’s a handy map on the Porc Blasus website which tells you you’re never more than an oink away from brilliant local pork suppliers who will keep you casseroling merrily until the spring is here. The traditional alliance of pork and apples can also play its part in your family war on food waste: the saddest wrinkled Pippin from the depths of the fruit bowl can return Frank Sinatra-like for one last glorious appearance in a casserole. Or you can chuck plenty of cider in but I realised that ciders like my local nectar, Old Monty, are just too good not to drink so here’s a life hack worth sharing: there will always be party cider left behind by teenagers so casserole that. My mother was a creative casseroler (though Dad always said they were stews), and though I don’t often travel to the wilder shores like rabbit and elderberry, I have inherited her partiality for juniper berries, great with pork or chicken. I think adding lemon takes the taste too far in the direction of a gin and tonic but it might make a savoury consolation if you’re keeping to your dry January. But my mother was not a fan of dumplings, perhaps traumatised by pre-War nursery food. So there is probably some element of forbidden fruit in my love of the ultimate stew accompaniment, surely ready for a re-brand. Daughter Number Six always refers to them as Casserole Clouds so maybe it is the stodgy name holding back dumplings from their deserved status as peasant classic food. Or, if you’re having a retro suet moment, you could swerve in the direction of a steak and kidney pud which, thanks to modern gadgetry, no longer takes all day to boil. If you had vile versions of puddings at school, give them another go: after all, you may not have had brilliant English lessons but you haven’t turned your back on literature so cut suet the slack you cut Shakespeare. Suet crust, for dumplings or puds, welcomes all kinds of additions, herbs fresh or dried from Liliwen Herbs or get inspired by the seeds from Case for Cooking: don’t tell me you won’t rethink a Casserole Cloud fragrant with fennel floating on a warming tide of meat and seasonal veg. Stews, they’re what a Welsh winter is made for.
Penderyn Llandudno Lloyd St. Dissllery Shop open days a week. To book a tour, go to www.penderyn.wales
Slowly does it… Give your slow cooker something sublime to simmer this winter
Welsh Beef bourguignon
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