Spring 2023

Celebrating great food and drink in Wales

Spring 2023

RUM ROLL

The mightiest Welsh rums

MORE SAUCE! Pile on the finishing touch

CRAFT FOOD ARTISAN The magazine for food artisans!

YOU’VE HAD YOUR CHIPS

The good, bad and ugly

DOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS

Wales’ St David’s Day Showcase

INNOVATE AND GROW

Welsh food & drink embraces the future

PLUS FOOD AND DRINK REVIEWS, NEWS, COOKING TIPS AND RECIPES GALORE

A J OUR N E Y O F T AS T E AND DI SCO V E R Y

VISIT NORTH WALES’ FIRST WHISKY DISTILLERY IN OVER 100 YEARS 

Distiillery Tours

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Gift Shop

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Gin Lab Experience

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Café

Aberfallsdistillery.com

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Publisher’s Letter Ode to Spring Spring. A happy, fun, joyous word. Longer days, green shoots, warm evenings. Awash with good food and drink and full of hope and promise for the future.

And so too is this issue and the year ahead for Welsh foodies.

Talking of delicious wares, we have a feature on the best Welsh rums. Could rum be the new gin? Judging by the quality of the rums on display in this piece, it could well be. Long gone are the harsh, rough liquors of old and in are sophisticated, smooth and complex rums that can easily be sipped and are as rewarding as a good malt whisky.

Our main feature is all about innovating for growth – growth that is environmentally sound, healthy for us and great for our communities. Read how some of our brightest and most forward-thinking food and drink companies are investing in future technologies, sustainability, ethical and inclusive business practices and world-beating product and market development.

They really are doing very clever stuff.

Since we’re looking forward to spending more time outdoors why not take advantage of one or two of the saucy selections in this issue’s round-up on Welsh condiments, many of which are as at home in a picnic or BBQ as they are at the dinner table.

We’re also looking ahead to festival season. After what seems like an exceptionally long winter, it’s a wonderful feeling to be out and about, chatting to producers and other stall holders as they ply their delicious wares.

And after said, long hard winter, they really need your support, so check out our festival guide and get out there.

All this and more awaits. Enjoy.

Paul Mulligan Publisher

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Contents Features Rum At The Top Could rum be the new gin?

Welcome to The Pleasure Dome The Southbank’s St David’s Day market is a sensory delight

Let’s Get Saucy Condiments that will add spice to life

Out Standing Innovation A round of applause for the pioneers of Welsh food and drink

Festival Fever It’s that time of year again

The Full Monty A gentle amble around Montgomeryshire’s foodie heroes

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Regulars When The Chips Are Down Jon Gower discusses the humble chip in Welsh literature

Take Away Nightmares Caroline Sarll’s struggles to find a truly veggie chippy

Restaurant Reviews A Wynner in Machynlleth

Hold the Front Page The latest news hot off the press

Recipes From Jamaica to France with a Welsh spin

Finger Lickin’ Treats Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds

Hop To It Myfanwy has a spring in her step

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©Marian Delyth

Jon Gower Having Your Chips Should you have asked the loquacious and ridiculously articulate novelist Gwyn Thomas to talk about food he could easily dish up a tasty mix of extravagant verbs and nouns, even when extolling the virtues of something pretty ordinary such as the chip.

Interviewed in the 1960s by Alan Whicker for TV he opined (see, it’s catching) of the potato chip, that its appeal lay in ‘The succulence of the thing and the one thing that we need for the national mind, for the national spine is the starch, the stiffness, the rigidity that we have lost...I think that we have relied on this strange vegetable for a kind of climactic stiffness and have been up to our hips in chips ever since.’

Elsewhere, Thomas, taking a bleak view of Welsh history, suggested that ‘The chip is the most polite and pleasant way of starving and we’ve been invited to starve on many occasions in our historic career.’

He later added, without a sprinkling of his trademark verbal vinegar, that ‘The chip is the chip; it is life itself.’

Suitably, Gwyn Thomas’ work was described as being like ‘Chekhov and chips’ and there was even a TV play about Thomas’ life called ‘Chunks and Chips.’

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proudly proclaim they sold ‘Cheap Skate and Chips’ which in turn gave birth to a local saying, ‘As cheap as Caroline Street Chips.’

The chippy soon spread, fish and chip shops becoming as common a sight on Welsh town and village streets as post offices, trawling behind them a netful of fishy puns such as “O My Cod” in Bangor, Rhyl’s “The Town Fryer” and the glorious “A Fish Called Rhondda,” in, you guessed it...

But of course, things get a little complicated when one looks at how the Americans started using the word chip to describe what someone in Tonypandy would call crisps.

Someone in Saratoga in New York State created a dish by frying very thin slices of potato until they were crisp and then called them chips. Whatever the name, be they chips or crisps they really took off: nowadays a staggering six billion packets are eaten annually this side of the pond alone.

Gwyn Thomas wasn’t the first writer to have his chips, as it were. One of the very first recorded descriptions of what was to become about as staple a part of the Welsh diet as it’s possible to be was Charles Dickens. In his 1859 novel A Tale of Two Cities he describes ‘Husky chips of potato, fried with some reluctant drops of oil.’

Which is where my home village of Pwll near Llanelli enters the story. When I was growing up there was a very successful pop factory, owned by Rees and Richards. I once wrote an article about it and suggested it would have been great if there’d been somewhere making crisps as well, so I could give it the title ‘Pop and Crisps.’ And it turns out that there was a small factory, making extraordinary crisps.

The chip as a word had entered the English language in the early 1800s, a food item described in the dictionary as ‘A small piece of potato (now commonly a stick or baton), fried or otherwise cooked in oil or fat or eaten hot.’

Why extraordinary, I hear you ask? Well, the ones made by the Pwll Potato Crisp Company were made from a potato called Arran Banner which would often have holes in, resulting in crisps that were therefore individually punctured.

And quite hard on the heels of the chip came the chippy, with the first one in Wales appearing in the 1870s in Caroline Street in Cardiff, now a rakish row of takeaways sufficiently synonymous with fast food that many refer to as “Chippy Lane.” This pioneering late Victorian fish and chip shop was opened by two gentlemen called Hopkins and Rees, who would

Imagine what might have happened if potatoes had been selected precisely because of these flaws, resulting in a crisp with a hole as distinctive as, say, the Polo Mint. It might have made the crisp-manufacturing Evans brothers a fortune. Put the place on the map.

And suitably, the name Pwll even translates as “hole.”

Oh for a Tardis.

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Apply Now The Surplus With Purpose Cymru Fund is open for applications from all food and drink businesses in Wales We recognise the cost pressures on the food and drink sector, and this fund makes it 100% cost-neutral to donate surplus food to FareShare Cymru. All donations are distributed to our network of charity and community group members. The fund can be used to cover the costs of:

Harvesting and labour Packaging or repackaging Storage or freezing Transportation Offsetting any loss of income from donating surplus food to FareShare Other ways of unlocking surplus food to prevent waste To discuss further, contact us today on 02920 362111 or email swp@fareshare.cymru

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Rum Drink experts are predicting a rum revolution to take the UK by storm this year – and if the figures are anything to go by, it’s been on the horizon for some time. In 2022, UK rum sales outpaced whisky for the first time, becoming a £1 billion market – the third largest market for rum in the world. Welsh rum producers are packing a hefty punch in the market so join us here in a toe-dip in the dark, rich waters of Welsh rum…

Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum Named after the iconic Devil’s Bridge near Aberystwyth, where according to legend the devil was out-witted by an old lady, Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum is a premium rum that is infused with the natural spices and flavours of Bara Brith, creating a complex and delicious taste profile.

It makes for a rich, satisfying and smooth sipping rum, so much so, it’s almost a shame to mix as a cocktail, which it does admirably. The natural spices used in Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum provide not only a great taste but also some health benefits. For example, cinnamon has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, while nutmeg may help improve brain function and digestion. (£39.00 / 70cl. Visit shop.devilsbridgerum.com for details)

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revival Dà Mhìle Dark Skies Organic Rum

Siddiqui Brown Rum

As rum’s go, Dà Mhìle Dark Skies Organic Rum is relatively new to the scene. Released in 2021, this oak matured rum was created in recognition of the Cambrian Mountains Dark Skies initiative. Boasting hints of vanilla and raisin, with distinctive sweet notes, Dà Mhìle Dark Skies works well as either a supping rum, or with a mixer.

We recommend trying it with Llanllyr Source’s Ginger Beer.

One of the most notable Welsh rum distilleries is Penderyn, located in the Brecon Beacons National Park. Though renowned for their long-establishing range of malt whiskies, gins and vodka, Penderyn’s range also includes Siddiqui’s brown rum and a sweet, smooth and a rather drinkable white that’s also an ideal platform for cocktails. Our favourite is Siddiqui’s Brown Rum, a rum that ‘Sips like a whisky and parties like a rum’, and tastes like no other spirit. It has a distinctive whisky-like smokey and oaky note, but it is rounded with a short finish as you’d expect from a quality rum. Its smooth and warming finish, makes it an excellent sipping rum that can also be used in cocktails.

(£38.00 / 70cl. Visit damhile.co.uk for details).

(£24.00 / 70cl. Visit penderyn.wales for details).

Eccentric Gin Company Black Batch Rum Eccentric Gin Company Black Batch Rum is a smallbatch rum that is aged in charred oak barrels for a minimum of six months, resulting in a rich and smoky flavour profile. This rum is distilled from molasses, which is then blended with spices and botanicals, including star anise, vanilla, and ginger, to create a unique flavour profile.

The smoky notes are complemented by hints of vanilla and spice, resulting in a well-balanced and complex rum. Excellent neat, thanks to its smoothness and depth or in cocktails. (£32.00 / 70cl. Visit inthewelshwind.co.uk for details).

Barti Ddu Spiced Rum One of Wales’ pioneering rums, Barti Ddu Spiced was inspired by the seafaring heritage of Wales. It is named after Barti Ddu, a famous pirate from west Wales who was known for his love of rum.

This rum is aged in oak barrels for a minimum of six months and is then infused with a blend of vanilla, clove, orange, and other spices and, uniquely, laver seaweed harvested from the Pembrokeshire coast. The result is a smooth and spicy rum that is perfect for sipping or mixing into cocktails. (£32.00 / 70cl. Visit bartirum.wales for details).

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Llanddwyn Spiced Rum

Mortal Bunny Spiced Rum

Llanddwyn Spiced Rum from the Anglesey Rum Co. is made using Welsh rum distilled from molasses and infused with a blend of spices and flavours, including vanilla, cinnamon, and ginger. The name of the rum is inspired by the Llanddwyn Island, a small tidal island off the coast of Anglesey in Wales. According to the brand’s website, the rum has a smooth and complex taste with notes of caramel, fruit, and spice. It can be enjoyed on its own, over ice, or as part of a cocktail.

It’s additionally important to note, the island for which this rum gets its name is famously named after Wales’ patron St of lovers, Santes Dwynwen. Perhaps this would make the perfect gift for someone special?

Mortal Bunny’s Spiced Rum is a fantastic addition to any rum lover’s collection. This complex rum is a blend of the finest Caribbean rums, expertly aged for a minimum of five years in oak barrels.

The aroma of Mortal Bunny’s Spiced Rum is warm and inviting, with notes of vanilla, cinnamon, and cloves.

On the palate, the rum has a smooth and luxurious mouthfeel, with flavours of caramel, toffee, and a hint of orange zest. The spices add a subtle warmth to the finish, making this rum perfect for sipping on a chilly evening.

One of the best things about Mortal Bunny’s Spiced Rum is its versatility in cocktails. The flavours are bold enough to hold up in a classic Rum and Coke, but also subtle enough to work well in more complex cocktails.

Try mixing it with pineapple juice, lime, and a dash of bitters for a delicious twist on a classic Mai Tai.

(£38.00 / 70cl. Visit angleseyrum.co.uk for details).

(£32.00 / 70cl. Visit bunnyspirits.co.uk for details)

Bullion Spiced Rum Passion Fruit Edition Bullion Spiced Rum Passion Fruit Edition is a delicious and exotic rum that is perfect for any occasion. This rum is a blend of premium Caribbean rums that have been aged for at least three years in oak barrels. The rum is then infused with natural passion fruit flavour, which gives it a unique and refreshing taste.

One of the best things about Bullion Spiced Rum Passion Fruit Edition is its versatility. It can be enjoyed neat or on the rocks, but it also pairs well with a variety of mixers. For a simple and refreshing cocktail, try mixing the rum with soda water and a squeeze of lime. For a more complex and tropical drink, mix it with pineapple juice, coconut cream, and a splash of grenadine. (£39.99 / 70cl. Visit bullionrum.com for details)

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Coles’ Sea Dragon Gold Rum A premium spirit made from the finest sugar cane molasses, distilled and aged in oak barrels for a minimum of seven years resulting in a smooth and rich rum that is full of complex flavours.

The aroma has notes of vanilla, caramel, and toasted oak. On the palate, there’s a luxurious and silky mouthfeel, with flavours of honey, butterscotch, and a hint of citrus. The finish is long and lingering, with a subtle warmth that leaves a pleasant sensation on the tongue. (£29.99 / 70cl. Visit seadragonrum.co.uk for details) In conclusion, Welsh rums are gaining popularity among spirits enthusiasts due to their unique and complex flavour profiles. Whether you are looking for a smooth sipping rum or a flavourful base for your cocktails, there is a Welsh rum that is sure to satisfy your palate.

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St David’s Day To mark our patron saint’s feast day, Food and Drink Wales and #CaruCymruCaruBlas did indeed lay on a feast fit for a saint at London’s South Bank.

As Wales hoped to turnover England at the Principality Stadium on Feb 25th, Food and Drink Wales turned up the heat for a St David’s Day celebration of great Welsh produce at the Observation Point at London’s South Bank. Our boys in red may have struggled on the pitch but there was no doubting the success of the teams from Food and Drink Wales and Welsh food and drink artisans as they showcased some of the wonderful bounty Wales has to offer.

Central to the event was an immersive food and drink experience inside a bespoke audio-visual dome. A 360° screen and sound system delivered a sensory experience that’s crucial in providing a context for the accompanying food and drink tasting. After a fascinating video from Food Innovation Wales explaining the geography of, and roles played by each of our regions, the importance of Protected Geographical Status for iconic Welsh products and how our food gets from the ‘field’ to the table, visitors were treated to sweeping vistas of mountains, valleys and rolling fields, lakes and bubbling streams, waves crashing against breath-taking coastlines and insights into the businesses and people who produce our food and drink.

Much of the imagery ties in with the core themes that encapsulate Wales as a food producing nation and culture – we have lush pastures, beautiful unspoilt countryside, clear pristine waters, low intensity, sustainably produced food and drink and a strong

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tradition of passionate artisanal producers doing what they do for the love of it. The message is simple – if you want ethical, sustainable, healthy and amazingly tasty food and drink, from a beautiful part of the world, buy Welsh.

It was a message adeptly reinforced by the taster menu visitors enjoyed while experiencing the show.

Having had appetites whetted watching and smelling dishes being prepared in an open kitchen while queuing, guests were able to sample some amazing food and drink. The taster menu kicked off with a first course of deeply flavoured Smoked salmon from Black Mountains Smokery, a tart tonic slaw, on a feta and sun-dried tomato Welsh cake from Rogue Welsh Cakes, with micro herbs to provide a hint of herbage.

With clockwork precision out came the 2nd course.

The first hit came from the aromatics of the turmeric slaw, from Jones – Trust Your Gut, hitting the palate, swiftly followed by smoked chicken breast from Black Mountains Smokery taking the dish in a different direction. Beautifully held together by the almostcreamy and ever versatile Welsh cake, this time with leek and cheese as the shining stars.

Up next were pakoras from Pontyclun’s SamosaCo. Classically flavoured, great texture, with a cheeky kick of spice to finish, and topped off with Radnor Chilli Jam to give a lovely layer of tangy heat. Rarebit with Blaenafon cheese swiftly followed, providing a lovely melting pot of Welsh goodness – crunchy base, gooey

Extravaganza cheese, smooth warm leek and ketchup tang.

The well-choreographed dance continued with Potato with mint cream and Trailhead’s beef jerky, which proved to be an amazing textural addition to combat the creamy combination of the refreshingly minty cream and potato.

Meanwhile in the heart of Cardiff, as part of the Welsh Government Food & Drink Wales Trade Development Programme’s #CaruCymruCaruBlas #LoveWalesLoveTaste campaign a huge heart-shaped display of daffodils graced the grounds of Cardiff Castle.

The tasting edged towards a close with intensely flavoured dark chocolate puddles from Wickedly Welsh, with raspberry and vodka making them an experience to savour. And then a wonderful, equally intense, coffee liqueur from the guys at Coaltown, using their own Anthracite recipe roast, finally brought the curtain down on proceedings. Too easy to enjoy, especially at 11am in the morning.

The installation, made from 12,000 daffodils, and donated by Welsh fresh produce brand Blas y Tir, was a tribute to Welsh food and drink producers as well as an opportunity to encourage Welsh consumers to share their pride and passion on St. David’s Day. Visitors were asked to take their picture alongside the daffodil heart and post it on social media using the hashtags #CaruCymruCaruBlas #LoveWalesLoveTaste in the run up to and on St. David’s Day.

Visitors then had the opportunity to mingle with the very producers whose products had been the centrepiece of the tasting, at a farmers market style event adjacent to the Dome. It was a rare chance to further explore the amazing breadth and quality of Welsh food and drink with the artisans whose passion, expertise and hard-work made this particular St David’s Day celebration possible.

Visitors were able to talk at length with some of Wales’ most iconic food and drink producers including Aber Falls Distillery, Black Mountains Smokery, Blaenafon Cheddar Company, Coaltown Coffee, Jones Trust Your Gut, Radnor Preserves, SamosaCo, The Rogue Welsh Cake Company, Trailhead Fine Foods and Wickedly Welsh Chocolate. Many of these Wales curious visitors enjoyed trying out even more produce and discussing in detail the inspiration, the culture, and the natural bounty of Wales with the makers themselves. In all respects it really did feel like visitors were getting a true taste of Wales in the heart of London.

In summing up the various food and drink events to mark St Davids Day, Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales, and Trefnydd, Lesley Griffiths said: “St. David’s Day is one of the most colourful days of the year in Wales, and it was great to see the display at Cardiff Castle highlighting the amazing produce we have here in Wales.

I was pleased to see producers taking part in the event in London too, showcasing some excellent Welsh produce on the banks of the Thames.

St. David’s Day presented us with a fantastic opportunity to celebrate our people, our heritage, our culture and, of course, our high-quality food and drink producers, which the #CaruCymruCaruBlas #LoveWalesLoveTaste campaign reinforces.”

And for those lucky enough to experience the St David’s Day events, their eyes were opened to a whole world of Welsh food and drink.

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IT’S GOOD TO BE HOLM

Award Winning Dining

Holm House, Marine Parade, Penarth CF64 3BG 02920 706029 | reservations@holmhousehotel.co.uk

Spring’s Secret Sauce Sauces, preserves and condiments - those little things we smear on the side of plates, spread on sandwiches or add to dishes - are one of the best ways to truly experience quality, regional Welsh produce. Whether that’s adding salt and vinegar to your fish and chips, or ketchup to your bacon sandwich (not excluding you brown sauce lovers out there, of course), they go a long way in making dishes what they are and to elevate the already existing flavours. Here are our top picks from around Wales to help you spice and sauce things up in 2023.

One place where sauce really makes all the difference is at a BBQ, and for all things saucy and spicy you need not look any further than the Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm. Their signature sauce range, ‘Welsh Sauce Kitchen’ has a varied range of sauces for all occasions, but the one that sticks out to us is their Black Garlic Ketchup. Made with fermented black garlic cloves, this sweet, sticky, umami flavoured sauce is perfect for marinating chicken wings, smeared on a burger or smothered over slow cooked ribs. As put by the company themselves, “it doesn’t matter how you use it, just enjoy…”. Well put. (£6.00 / 280g. Visit pembrokeshirechillifarm.com for details).

P.S. We know it’s not quite BBQ weather just yet, but where’s the harm in getting some practice in now?

Let’s start with some Spanish notes. Sabor De Amor’s Paella in a Bottle is exactly as it says on the bottle – all the traditional flavours and ingredients found in a paella found in one hand bottle of sauce. With ingredients such as fresh tomatoes, saffron and a mixture of traditional spices, this sauce can take you from zero to a paella for 4 people in 30 minutes. Simply add chicken, chorizo, and vegetables to your diluted sauces, and enjoy a taste of Spain from the comfort of your own home. As luck would have it, Sabor De Amor have a full recipe featured on their website – happy cooking! (£4.50 / 240g. Visit sabordeamor.com for details).

This wouldn’t be an article about condiments unless we featured at least one salt, and sticking to the garlic flavour profile, we think it’s essential to include Halen Môn’s Pure Sea Salt with Roasted Garlic. From roasted potatoes and pan-fried prawns to roasted veg or a simple bruschetta starter, this flavoursome salt is versatile and a favourite among Halen Môn’s own team and chefs alike. Not only is it great for the plate, but it’s also good for the environment, as every packet is packaged in Biodegradable packaging, as recognised by the Great Taste Food Awards 2021. (£6.90 / 100g. Visit halenmon.com for details).

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Staying with our North Wales based producers, we couldn’t ignore the fabulous range of products that Dylan’s has to offer, namely their distinctive sauces and preserves. Dylan’s Pickled Samphire is perfect for you pickle lovers out there, and makes for a moreish addition to any seafood dish. This pickle boasts an almost refreshing vinegar acidity, a sharp tang from a handful of capers, with an underlying creaminess that settles the profile. (£5.25 / 250g. Visit dylansrestaurant.co.uk for details).

Now for the king of all sauces – a tomato sauce.

But not just any tomato sauce, Jones and Co’s Saws Coch offers a rich, indulgent take on your every day Heinz equivalent. Elevate your morning bacon sandwiches, fries, omelettes or whatever you fancy with this classic, or put a twist on a classic with Jones and Co’s Saws Coch Sbeis – like the former, but with a little additional spice for good measure. We think this would work well as the base of a pork belly marinade – just add some extra white wine vinegar for acidity and marinate for 24 hours in the fridge and you’ve got some delicious, BBQ ready pork belly for when the weather’s BBQ ready. (£3.50 / 250ml. Visit gourmetwales.co.uk for details).

Of course, Dylan’s is much more than seafood and seafood accompaniments. Their Salted Butterscotch Sauce is as indulgent as it is rich, and is exquisite melted over desserts, waffles, s’mores, or ice cream – the possibilities are endless! According to Dylan’s website, it also works particularly well in their ‘Butterscotch Old Fashioned’. We just might have to try that one out for ourselves. (£4.75 / 280g. Visit dylansrestaurant.co.uk for details). *A friendly warning to the reader: this product regularly sells out, so be sure to fill your baskets while stocks last!*

Taking a short scenic trip from Dylan’s base in Anglesey to the seaside town of Pwllheli on the Llyn Peninsula, we find ourselves at Welsh Lady Preserves.

Established in 1966, Welsh Lady Preserves is now run by the second and third generations of the family - son John with his wife Carol and their son David. Boasting a number of prestigious awards, including winning the Supreme Champion on two different occasions at the Great Taste Awards for their Lemon Curd, this is a family that is passionate about their produce. For us, their Beer Mustard stands out for both its simplicity and full flavour. Whether paired with cold meats and cheese, steaks or mixed into mashed potato, this is definitely one for your larder. (£2.95 / 170g. Visit welshladypreserves.com for details).

Looking for something sharp, but sweet? Hot, and rich in flavour? The Welsh Saucery has you covered!

Don’t let the name fool you, this isn’t witchcraft, however we’d have to agree that their Pineapple and Habanero Sauce is magic. This bright and sweet sauce that starts with sharp pineapple and develops into medium Habanero heat, making it a hot sauce for those of you adverse to spice, and a mellow, flavourful sauce for anyone else unwilling to feel the heat. Our recommendation? Chicken burgers. Cut through the savoury, saltiness of the chicken fat with the sweetness of the pineapple, while giving the rest of your tastebuds a treat with the warmth of a habanero. Perfect. (£4.95 / 230ml. Visit thewelshsaucery.co.uk for details).

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If you prefer something sweet for breakfast, CRWST’s Welsh Honey Butter is a delicious condiment made with high-quality Welsh butter and sweet, locallysourced honey. This spreadable butter is perfect for adding a touch of sweetness and richness to baked goods, toast, bagels, or pancakes.

Welsh butter is known for its creamy texture and rich flavour, and it is made using traditional churning methods that preserve the natural taste and goodness of the milk. Meanwhile, the honey used in CRWST’s Welsh Honey Butter is harvested from local Welsh bees, which ensures its freshness and quality. (£7.50.

Visit crwst.cymru for details).

Let’s finish with a spicy flourish – introducing Y Deli’s Tigernut & Chilli Sauce. This is a versatile sauce that can be used to add flavour and heat to a variety of dishes, such as roasted vegetables, grilled meats, rice bowls, or sandwiches. It also has a unique, slightly sweet and nutty taste that sets it apart from other hot sauces.

Overall, if you are a fan of spicy and flavourful condiments and are interested in trying new ingredients and flavours, Y Deli’s Tigernut & Chilli Sauce may be worth checking out. (£3.25 / 250ml. Visit gourmetwales.co.uk for details).

Gwyl Tyddyn a Chefn Gwlad Smallholding & Countryside Festival 20 & 21 Mai / May 2023

Sioe Frenhinol Cymru Royal Welsh Show 24 - 27 Gorffennaf / July 2023

Royal Welsh Showground Llanelwedd Builth Wells Powys LD2 3SY

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TICKETS NOW ON SALE!

The future Sally Hales explores why it’s critical Wales’ food and drinks sector continues to innovate – and the brilliant businesses leading the way Every time a can of beer is cracked open in the UK, the thirsty drinker can thank Wales, for it was innovative thinking in 1930s Llanelli that paved the way for the fresher on-the-go tipple. The revolutionary beer-canning process was introduced in 1936 by the Felinfoel Brewery, becoming the first of its kind in Europe. But it’s not the only example of the nation’s pioneering approach to food and drink manufacturing.

Being able to select organic food in the supermarket is commonplace today, but it wasn’t until 1984 that Britain had its first certified organic dairy - Rachel’s, based at a family farm in Brynllys, near Aberystwyth.

And innovation continues to be part of the Welsh food and drink landscape with businesses such as Root Zero, based in Haverfordwest, breaking ground with its planet-friendly potatoes, which are certified carbon neutral and grown using sustainable farming practices to remove carbon dioxide, create healthy soil and increase local biodiversity. Innovation is key to supporting food pioneers to explore new frontiers.

‘The food sector has always had to be flexible and innovative to meet the demands of the retail sector and consumers,’ says David Lloyd, director of ZERO2FIVE Food Industry Centre (FIC) at Cardiff Metropolitan University, which supports Welsh businesses to innovate. ‘However, in recent years, the challenges

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faced by the sector such as Brexit, the pandemic and rising energy costs have required a new level of innovative thinking and process changes for food manufacturers.’

The climate emergency is also a key driver of change.

Food production accounts for more than a quarter of the global greenhouse gas emissions that drive climate change, which brings not only threats from unpredictable weather patterns impacting yields, but also other environmental pressures such as soil degradation, and water quality and biodiversity issues.

Well-being of Future Generations (Wales) Act also requires public bodies in Wales to think about the long-term impact of their decisions and ensure that they support the health and wellbeing of the nation, so that people can live well. For the food and drink sector, this means working towards delivering healthier, reasonably priced produce, and improving cost and competitiveness to build an economically robust, thriving Wales, alongside improvements in sustainability.

A secure supply chain is also essential. Economic and political upsets originating beyond our borders in recent years have revealed the vulnerabilities of the global just-in-time supply chain, and its impact on

of food our food security. Innovation is essential to building a more secure supply chain of Welsh produce that is shorter and more localised. The Welsh Government’s vision to create a strong sector with a global reputation for excellence that has one of the most environmentally and socially responsible supply chains in the world.

To do this, the food and drink industry in Wales works together in a collegiate way via ‘clustering’ to share resources and ideas, supported by the Welsh Government’s Food and Drink Division. These strategic clusters - the CEO Cluster, Drinks Cluster, Export Cluster, Fine Food Cluster, Horticulture Cluster, Nutri-Wales Cluster, Seafood Cluster and Sustainability Cluster - have been developed to bring ambitious people together to share expertise and drive real change.

A Sustainability Cluster was launched in January 2020 to develop sustainable practices in the agri-food industry to create a pathway to creating one of the most sustainable supply chains in the world. As Mark Grant, who supports the Welsh Government’s Food & Drink Sustainability Cluster, told The Grocer magazine recently that it’s the trade itself driving change.

‘Consumers are more focused on price, range, shelf-life and ingredients such as fat, sugar and salt,’ he says.

‘They expect companies to take responsibility for the sustainability of their products. Suppliers are trusted to just “get on with it”.’

The cluster now has around 100 producers and also includes government bodies and 30 academic organisations working as central hub for intelligence,

networking and developing expertise, as well as providing support for businesses to achieve B Corp accreditation - considered the international gold standard for sustainability. Drop Bear Beer Co, the Swansea brewery that has placed sustainability at the heart of its operation since its launch in 2019, recently achieved the standard – the first drinks firm in Wales to do so.

The triple helix To turn pioneering ideas into reality, the Welsh Government also funds Food Innovation Wales (FIW), which delivers support via its three centres in Wales - Food Centre Wales in Llandysul, Ceredigion, Food Technology Centre, based at Coleg Menai Llangefni on Anglesey, and ZERO2FIVE Food Industry Centre at Cardiff Metropolitan University.

These centres are teeming with internationally recognised industry experts and together they help to deliver the Project HELIX initiative. Using the triple helix approach of government, industry and academia working together, it helps businesses to grow, innovate, compete and reach new markets. The latest figures show the project has had an economic impact of £273.2 million to food and drink businesses in Wales and has supported the development of 1,676 new products. It can help firms to navigate everything from nutrition and dietetics, environmental health, new product development, factory and workplace design, quality assurance, hygiene and food safety and market analysis.

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Hilltop Honey was founded in 2011 when Scott Davies started beekeeping in his parents’ back garden.

The company now inhabits a 14,000 sq ft unit in Newtown, Powys, and supplies some of the UK’s major supermarkets. The Food Technology Centre, as part of Project HELIX, has been supporting product testing to expand its range since 2018. New product development trials included analysis to validate the products’ shelf stability, as well as microbiological testing and providing nutritional information.

The Just Love Food Company, based in Oakdale, near Blackwood, sells allergy-friendly celebration cakes to many of the UK’s biggest retailers and food service outlets. It received support from ZERO2FIVE to improve waste management after it became aware of the potential sustainability and cost benefits of reducing their waste. Experts provided support for two of the company’s most popular lines, carrying out a review of process and operational performance to highlight product losses and production inefficiencies.

According to a recent survey of 50 food companies in Wales, energy featured as one of the most critical challenges currently facing food manufacturers, says David Lloyd. ‘We are witnessing increasing levels of diversification in areas of energy supply to manufacturers that allow an alternative to the more traditional energy supply routes. The uncertainty surrounding future energy bills is one of the main barriers to future capital investment for food manufacturers. The development of purchasing consortiums between food manufacturers is one which is currently under investigation.’

Businesses are also looking to range rationalisation, to establish which products deliver the best profit margins, helping efficiencies and reducing energy and labour costs, and waste reduction, says David Lloyd. ‘Food Innovation Wales has seen a considerable increase in demand for its waste reduction expertise,’ he says. ‘This focuses on factory floor operations and identifies key areas in the food production which

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may yield processing losses including spillages, poor equipment design and yield losses through cooking processes.’

According to Paul Roberts, of the Food Technology Centre, analysis can also be provided to reduce ingredient waste - which is an important aspect of sustainability. The centre can also help food firms source sustainable packaging.

Packaging is an area in which a number of Welsh companies have been innovating.

‘Innovations in packaging are driven by the major packaging production companies but Welsh manufacturers are supported to ensure any change in packaging and barrier properties do not affect safety or quality of the product,’ says David Lloyd. ‘Companies are also reviewing packaging to ensure that the finished product volume within the pack is maximised thus not leading to the purchase of extraneous packaging and the subsequent waste of space in the logistics chain.

Changes in this area impact energy and fuel usage and a reduction in food miles.’

The Parsnipship, which makes original award-winning vegetarian and vegan products from a production kitchen in Ogmore Vale, began life in 2007 selling products at Cardiff ’s Riverside Market but now supplies wholesale to independent retail outlets, cafés, restaurants and pubs. ZERO2FIVE supported on new packaging, which has helped the company access new markets including more traditional retail routes. The Parsnipship also worked with Cardiff Met’s School of Art and Design to create design concepts for its new packaging. ZERO2FIVE also helped with market research feedback on the packaging and provided the company with research and insights into vegan and vegetarian trends.

ZERO2FIVE’s Perceptual Experience Laboratory (PEL) - a collaborative project between ZERO2FIVE and Cardiff Met’s School of Art and Design, which provides powerful research and marketing tools to inform

packaging decisions - has also helped one of the largest suppliers of Welsh produce in Wales, Haverfordwest’s Puffin Produce, create new packaging for its Blas y Tir potatoes.

The PEL team has developed unique integrated eyetracking technologies for gaze analysis, which offers insight into behaviour. An experimental protocol was designed for Puffin, creating visual stimuli to place into a virtual supermarket fresh produce aisle. Participants using eye-tracking glasses stood in this virtual supermarket and were asked questions about which packaging design was the most attention-grabbing, which helped to deliver clear and actionable insights to improve their new packaging design further.

Whisky manufacturer In The Welsh Wind, based in Cardigan, has also been supported to think outside the box on product ideas and ingredients and production techniques. With no barley malting manufacturers available in Wales, the distillery needed to find a way to make the spirit by experimenting with production techniques and non-traditional ingredients.

Developing an alternative to the kiln-dried barley process was the catalyst to innovating a unique single malt whisky made from green grain Welsh barley.

Through Project HELIX, a food technologist helped to test and trial different methods, using equipment from Food Centre Wales. Together, they were able to develop a unique method of processing the barley that delivers environmental benefits from energy savings during production, while also achieving a unique ‘green grain’ flavour.

ZERO2FIVE also supported the development of Llanelli-based-food manufacturer Prima’s new Chef ’s Promise dry ingredient mixes. Using the sensory evaluation suite, the gluten-free mixes were benchmarked against a standard gluten-containing equivalent.

Innovation on ingredients is also key to creating healthier foods, says Paul Roberts. ‘With the problems of obesity, the agenda for healthier foods has never been more important. We can assist with reformulation, reducing the salt and sugar levels, while keeping the same taste, look and feel. We offer that service and do the consumer testing, via sensory booths. It all comes down to taste if you want consumers to choose the healthier product,’ he says.

Food Centre Wales’s support with new product development has helped Pembrokeshire Lamb successfully launch a range of sauces to complement their range of meat. Recipe formulation, HACCP, micro testing and trial production all took place in the Innovation and Manufacturing Hub at Food Centre Wales. This enabled them to learn and master the correct processing systems from day one and ensure they were producing food products safely and efficiently right from the start.

Farm diversification support from Food Technology Centre for Anglesey’s Llefrith Nant Dairy during Covid helped it adapt to sell its products via a vending machine. The machine allows people to purchase local milk directly from the farm which has been produced by cows grazing less than 700m from the site, reducing food miles and increasing the sustainability of the product. The dairy benefitted from advice on which equipment to buy and how to maintain and clean it, as well as on regulations around temperatures and the chemicals needed.

The successes of these companies show that, with the right support, the food and drink sector can not only meet the challenges of rapidly changing global problems and pressures but thrive in the face of them.

And with the extensive and world-leading support available from the Food and Drink Division’s projects, the nation can expect the fertile imaginations of Wales’ ground-breaking producers to deliver food that also tastes great and competes on the world’s stage.

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This is Food and Drink.

This is Wales.

We know that when we look after our land, seas and sky, they look after us.

Working with nature and working for nature pays back in deeper flavours.

The best ingredients nurtured, grown, crafted and shared.

Something special for the senses. By passionate people, for passionate people. gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales

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Feast of

Welsh Spring and Summer food festival line-up

As we emerge from the long hibernation inducing winter period and the days lengthen to herald the welcome arrival of Spring, what better way to lift the spirits further than to attend one of the many fantastic Welsh foodie festivals showcasing the many and varied delights of produce from around the country. Join taste.blas on a mouth-watering, tasteteasing review of some of the great festivals coming up..

MERTHYR MAWR FOREST FEASTIVAL April 7-May 14 (across six weekends) Featuring the best street food trucks and chefs from Wales and beyond, pitched under canvas amongst woodlands of the Merthyr Mawr Estate. Held on Fridays-Sundays plus Bank Holiday Mondays. Most days open 11am-10.30pm.

Visit www.lovetovisit.com/uk-attractions/merthyrmawr-forest-feastival to book a date and a 3-hour timeslot.

CAERPHILLY FOOD FESTIVAL April 29 The town centre will become a marketplace when over seventy stall holders will tempt visitors' taste buds with delicious aromas, sizzling sounds and mouth-watering produce!

The ever-popular Artisan Market, Castle Court Shopping Centre Craft & Food Market and Cenotaph Craft Fair by Crafty Legs will boost the overall stall number to over 130. www.caerphillyfoodfestival.co.uk

FOODIES FESTIVAL (Cardiff) May 6-8 Being held at Bute Park for the first time, this promises to be the UK’s biggest food festival featuring top chefs, tasty food, delicious drinks and live music. Attractions include MasterChef Champions when Michelinstarred and top local chefs cook signature summer recipes in The Chefs’ Theatre. foodiesfestival.com/events/cardiff

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Festivals FOOD AND FIRE - Micro Festival (Deeside)

HAVERFOODFEST (Haverfordwest).

May 12-15

This popular event in the town centre features highquality food and drink stallholders along with lots of tasters. There will also be acoustic musicians situated in various places and free boat trips on the river. Many businesses put on offers and events on the day to complement the festival.

Billed as ‘a new original and unique micro festival’ held on the Hawarden Estate, this event is also described as ‘an immersive, educational, hands-on weekend dedicated to food, drink, fire, community, wellness and nature’ to which all food amateurs, novices, experts and happy onlookers are warmly invited.

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GWYL FYWD CAERNARFON May 13 This annual event is held by the Caernarfon Food Festival Group – formed in February 2015 following a series of public meetings in the town – consisting of local volunteers who meet regularly throughout the year. Their aims include celebrating local food, promoting the issue of food waste and raising awareness of healthy eating. www.gwylfwydcaernarfon.cymru

RHUDDLAN FOOD FESTIVAL (Rhyl) May 20 Gwledd-Fest drew over 3,000 visitors in 2022 following a two-year hiatus. The event, based at the Rhuddlan Community Centre and Parliament Street Car Park, aims to support local food, drink and craft producers and suppliers and features several stalls as well as live music and face-painting. www.facebook.com/events/community-centrerhuddlan/rhuddlan-food-festival/853870674986315

SMALLHOLDING AND COUNTRYSIDE FESTIVAL (Builth Wells) May 20-21 A celebration of rural life with smallholding pursuits at its heart. This weekend-long event at the Royal Welsh Showground is a showcase of the real diversity of the Welsh countryside and a fantastic day out for young families, garden enthusiasts and anyone with an interest in the great outdoors. rwas.wales/smallholding-and-countryside-festival

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THE BIG BEER FESTIVAL May 27 Milford Waterfront hosts its first food and drink event of the year with Pembrokeshire's premier Beer Festival, working with Milford Haven Round Table to raise money for charitable causes in Milford Haven and the annual Carnival (July 1)! Featuring live music, real ale, ciders, prosecco, Pimms, street food and much more. www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk

SHOWCASING WALES & THE BORDERS (National Botanic Gardens, Llanarthne) July 1-2 The second of three such events, the summer event of the series promises more entertainment including craft tents and live food demonstrations. Billed as celebrating the area’s food, drink, art and craft, artisans and makers, the event features stall holders with a passion for handcrafted gift or home items, or unique food and drinks.

COWBRIDGE FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL

showcasing-wales.co.uk

May 28-29

THE ROYAL WELSH SHOW

Since being founded in 2004 as part of the Cowbridge Charter Trust’s 750th celebrations, the festival has grown from a one-day event with 40 exhibitors and 4,000 visitors to a whole weekend attracting 150 applications for the 100+ exhibition stands and well over 10,000 visitors to the town. www.cowbridgefoodanddrink.org

CEREDIGION GARDEN AND CRAFT FAIR (Aberaeron) May 28-29 Held on Square Field and organised by Ceredigion & District Growers Association, this is the premier event of its type in west Wales. Over seventy stalls will be selling plants, craft and food, together with children’s entertainment. Entry is free, but no dogs are allowed on the field.

July 24-27 The pinnacle event in the British agricultural calendar that, along with an exciting four-days of livestock and equine competitions, show has something to interest everyone through its wide range of activities including forestry, horticulture, crafts, countryside sports, shopping, food and drink and a 12-hour programme each day of exciting entertainment, attractions and displays. www.rwas.wales

LAMPETER FOOD FESTIVAL July 29 Lampeter’s FoodFest is being held on the beautiful campus of UWTSD, College Street, Lampeter. The event is wheelchair accessible and admission is free! www.facebook.com/Lampeterfoodfestival

www.facebook.com/ceredigiongrowersevents

BRECON BEACONS FOOD FESTIVAL (Brecon) June 3 Brecon Market Hall again greets this annual event which brings the best food and drink producers in and around the Brecon Beacons together for the public to enjoy. As well as over sixty exhibitors the day includes a wide range of entertainment and foodie treats. www.breconbeaconsfoodfestival.co.uk

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MILFORD HAVEN STREET FOOD FESTIVAL Aug 6-8 Milford haven’s second foodie event of the summer sees Street Food Warehouse bring their family friendly street food festival to Milford Waterfront. A range of independent street food traders will be offering a wide variety of cuisines from all around the world and they'll have a fully stocked bar with great cocktails and craft beers. www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk

Caroline Sarll Veggie ‘n’ chips April is, indeed, the cruellest month - mixing forgotthe-brolly folly with the first onslaught of tourists to our hitherto winter-wizened, Promenade-peaceful Porthcawl. And judging by the plethora of toxic polystyrene poking from public bins, a chip-based takeaway is still synonymous with seaside-living. But what about veggie go-withs? I guessed I’d be entering flying pigs’ territory in my quest to find really good options, but I hadn’t imagined that the pigs would be supersonic. Pen poised over post-it note (Yup - preempting a short answer), I cheerily and hopefully asked all local establishments: “What vegetarian choices do you have please?”.

The first retort was so cavalier, it made me, a la airborne piggies, snort with laughter: “Not a lot”.

Not a lot you can say to that, you might think. But, channelling my inner Paxman and feeling that, although reductive, the answer hadn’t quite been “nothing”, I pushed further. Result. “Er…um… we have got pea fritters and, oh yeah, Glamorgan sausages”. My complexion changed from kale-fed pale to excited, ripe-tomato red. But, before I could interject a laudatory squeak, he added “But we cook those with the fish cakes”. In palm oil, to boot. Ye gods and battered fishes! When I checked the provenance of their Glamorgan sausages, as in “bought in” or “homemade”, the response was as surreal as Alice’s “I can’t Believe It’s Not Butter” riff in the Vicar of Dibley (please watch): “They’re from Gills, not Glamorgan”.

They’re not. Gills are purveyors of fresh…. meat. He was clearly clueless about the now-famous, old-Glamcounty, Caerphilly-rich sausages, bless him.

The next chippie was equally terse. “We have a Chinese vegetarian curry”. “Anything else?”, I ventured, with Pollyanna positivity. “Oh yeah. We’ve got cheese”. She didn’t even garnish with “grated”. Wow. A chunk of cheese atop my chips. Can’t wait.

The third dumbfounding dialogue could well lead us ‘dyed-in the(vegan)-wool’ vegetarians to ditch our innate pacifism and weaponize our gherkins. “I have strict vegetarian friends staying - what have you got, please?” I gamely (ha ha) asked. Response: “Do they eat chicken?” “No”. “Do they eat any meat at all?” “No”.

“Oh…”(brace yourselves) “Do they eat fish then?” “No”.

As an object lesson in “tripling” for GCSE English, this is exemplary. Otherwise, these questions, in our

woke world, are truly gobsmacking. But the lady was so apologetically lovely about their meagre meat ‘n’ fish free offering –“mushy peas”- that I spared her my stock spiel about the principles of herbivorous living.

Her ready admission that the chips (as elsewhere) are cooked in the same oil as the fleshy fare was disappointing. Yet it’s hard to remonstrate against such potentially trade-limiting candour - and helpfulness.

“It takes 40 minutes to start up the separate, glutenfree fryer, but if you ring in advance, we’ll aim to do it”. Simple caveat then – always ask “How do you fry?” before you buy.

Actually, do I and other Quorn-again evangelicals have any right to carp (I know) about fish/meat alternatives?

Enter my omnivorous spouse, with a trademark counter grouse. “You wouldn’t go to the butcher for broccoli, so why expect what are largely called fish bars to serve you veggie meals?”. Ouch. He’ll ask for this in writing, but he has a point. Or has he? Surely the chips should be sacrosanct and uncontaminated? They’re spuddies. Pure root-veg gold. And I don’t know about you, but we’ve always called the shops “chippies” – not “fishies”. So there.

My last call was to our go-to joint (sorry). Their current veggie pies, from (sadly, non-Welsh) Young Vegans, are welcome, succulent and unequivocally critter-sparing, but, for me, bear unforgivable meat-mimicking monikers like Steak and Ale and Mushroom Stroganoff. Many contain as-divisive-asmarmite mushrooms and some, tapioca-soy-based “cheese” – similarly contentious. But all are baked separately - yippee! Ditto their chips, although hang on…. “With those we can’t guarantee their purity”. Eek. Is it too much to ask all establishments, nationwide, to add menu board disclaimers? More transparency please.

I’m suddenly reminded of my lovely late mum’s superb, gispy (gooey-crispy) egg ‘n’ chips. Still nowt wrong with that combo for us lactos. And for all vegetarians, a bowl brimming with beans (available in all chippies) is a juicy, protein-rich, always-delish default dish. My favourite.

Sadly, now I’m aware of the endemic, mixed-frying “tatty tainting” in many takeaways, I fear we veggies may well and truly have had our chips. Shame.

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Destination Upper Rectory

A Taste of Montgomeryshire

If visitors are asked to name the greatest attractions Wales has to offer, the green hills and varied landscapes of Montgomeryshire are unlikely to outpunch Caernarfon Castle or the Pembrokeshire Coast but there’s much to explore and celebrate here. Myfanwy Alexander takes us on a taste tour of this wonderful county.

Cwpan Pinc Checkers restaurant

Longer days are ideal for leisurely runs along roads seldom travelled and within a few minutes of my home just outside Llanfair Caereinion, there’s plenty of passion for food with great ingredients and respect for quality produce with the tradition of home cooking, passed down through the generations, still thriving.

The cooks of Montgomeryshire understand the quality of local ingredients, the deep yellow of a free range egg yolk which will give height to a sponge cake, the buttery top on summer milk, the marbling in a rib of Welsh Black beef. Therefore, the professional cooks of the area face quite a challenge, how to outdo the skills of their clientele.

One strategy is to nab one of the best cooks in the area and have them produce food commercially. I never need an excuse to pop in to the gloriously quirky ‘Cwpan Pinc’ which is both a vital hub for locals and an oasis for travellers on the A458. Opening the door on a crisp Spring morning, I felt as though I had opened the door on a farm kitchen. Boiler-suited workers who have already put in a shift by nine and passers-by both enjoying everything from a bacon butty to millionaires’ shortbread being cooked with both love and talent.

The only disappointment is that they won’t let you take Eirlys home with you to cook for you forever: I have tried.

Derwen Garden Centre

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Heading eastwards through the Meifod Valley, I picked up a bag of potatoes and some earthy carrots from the Spud Hut, a diversification project which gives access to vegetables at the edge of the field in which they are grown. Next on my itinerary is the milk vending machine from Llaeth y Bont, nostalgia in a reusable glass bottle. With the summer ahead, this always delicious product grows creamier by the day. A turn through pheasant-bristling lanes brought me over the hill to the Derwen Garden Centre outside Guilsfield which draws foodies for no less than three reasons. If you want to buy fruit trees, herb plants or anything you

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need for a productive garden, Derwen are unrivalled for choice and advice. They have a cracking cafe, and I just had to make time for one of their filled croissants; a flaky, savour splendour. Then I nipped over to the Farm Shop. With its excellent combination of local foods and exotic treats (please keep me away from the cherry nougat), it has always been a draw but they, like Cwpan Pinc, have recently upped their bakery game: it is difficult to believe that sheer quality can raise a slice of Victoria Sandwich to such heights.

Next stop for me was the picture postcard village of Berriew where the Upper Rectory has the best priced tasting menu in Wales (prove me wrong), with six delicious courses for £39, including the legendary twice cooked cheese souffle: diners need to be reassured that no clouds were harmed in the creation of this marvel. Kerryanne and Paul grow many of their own ingredients and during COVID, provided soup for the whole village.

A little down the Severn Valley, I called in on Ifor Humphries whose waygu beef is well-known and award-winning: check out the iconic short ribs, the gluten free burger and, of course, the dry aged rib eye steak. Every day is a school day: Ifor told me that when waygu beef is scored for marbling, it is the rib they examine so there is no better cut to experience the waygu difference. And yes, they do like their beer, these cows: what better than Monty’s for man or beast?

I caught up with Russ at his brewery just outside Montgomery, to hear how he and Pam took Monty’s beers to Downing Street for St Davids Day, to inform the great and the good about their new brew, Navigation Pale Ale. Their reputation for creating exceptionally tasty beers with real depth and character might lead brewers with less fire in their belly to rest on hoppy laurels. Monty’s however is always innovating, bringing their commitment into new products, such as low-alcohol or gluten free beers. Their seasonal beers punctuate my year, from Mild in Spring, Match for the

Dining Llaeth y Bont

Six Nations and so on until it is time for Ding Dong and Figgy Pud at Christmas. I am fortunate enough to live close to Monty’s stockist The Goat Hotel in Llanfair Caereinion, widely acknowledged for the outstanding respect they give to the outstanding beers they choose.

Monty’s on-line shop also offers a range of wines from Montgomery Vinyard. Their stated aim, to create the finest signature wines in Wales from their lofty site above the town, may seem ambitious but their product takes some beating. Their Solaris is acclaimed for its delicacy and smoothness and their traditionally produced sparkling wines are ideal for any celebration. My own favourite though is Rondo, a red with a characteristic blend of fruits and an almost deceptive drinkability: it reveals its richness gradually and although it stands its corner with game or cheeses, it merits your attention on its own. If you have friends who say they are sceptical about the very idea of producing quality red wine in Wales, buy them a bottle of Solaris: it also goes very well with humble pie.

Also in Montgomery, and ideal with a bottle of Solaris, is artisanal cheese from cheesemaker Clare Jones who was inspired by the dairy farms which surround her home. Her careful yet inspired efforts to develop a characteristic product have proved to be a spectacular success: her small batches of Trefaldwyn Blue sell out immediately and one mouthful will tell you why: the richly-coloured cheese has its own firm flavour and is not overwhelmed by the tang of the blue, creating the balance which so impressed the judges at the World Cheese Awards, who declared it to be the Best Welsh Cheese in 2021. If you find yourself in Montgomery as night falls and slightly furtive looking figures are to be seen passing small packages to one another, you have not stumbled into a scene from ‘Narcos’: these will be friends passing one another a cherished slice of Trefaldwyn Blue.

Parking on the charming square, I am straight into the Castle Kitchen and not only to see if I can score some Trefaldwyn Blue there. It’s a cafe and delicatessen where the standard of the home-produced food is matched by the care taken about the products they stock. The courtyard to the rear is delightful when weather permits but even on the greyest day, a view over this delightful townscape is a pleasure.

Opposite the Castle Kitchen is Checkers restaurant with rooms, an establishment with an iconic heritage for Welsh foodies. ‘New’ owners Andrew and Rachel Birch came to Checkers with their own iconic heritage,

Montgomery Vinyard Morgan’s Brew tea

Montys Brewery

both having worked at Ludlow fine dining destination Fishmore Hall. Their ambition to be the best combines vision with attention to detail: their eight course tasting menu with its imaginative wine flight is already gaining legendary status, with local produce given star billing.

From the leisurely pace of Montgomery, I set out for the bustle of Welshpool, home to Europe’s largest sheep market, 5915 sold last Monday, which is a quiet trade, has been steadily growing its reputation as a place to go for good food. Morgan’s Brew produces spectacular teas for all possible tastes, from exceptional versions of traditional teas, and do take the word of someone whose mother was born in Darjeeling, to infusions such as their lemongrass and ginger, which is perfect if you are in need of a pick-me-up. I can never resist an excuse to spend time in the Bay Tree Cafe which has a good selection Morgan’s Brew teas as well as an idiosyncratic interior which was Instagramable before there was Instagram.

I won’t miss the chance to pop into the Little Welsh Bakery which does aromatic, tender focaccia reminding us that simple things done well are the definition of quality. And further up the street, I have to get top quality banter and even better beef from Rikki Lloyd’s butchers’ shop. From the board outside proclaiming which local farm has provided the meat today to the sausages and pies deep within, Rikki demonstrates exactly what a local butcher should be.

It was no surprise to any of his customers when his steak and stilton pie won the Best Hot Eating Pie at the recent Golden Cleaver awards, though the category did make me wonder if there might be a category of pie which wasn’t eating, throwing, perhaps?

Meat is at the heart of another great business, Trailhead’s Get Jerky brand of beef snacks, though they have recently added a version made with local venison to their imaginative range. Popular with runners, walkers, bikers and anyone who likes their snackage to deliver a real punch, Get Jerky products are clearly also to the taste of judges: their commitment to quality and innovation means that they garner awards wherever they go.

Trefaldwyn Blue

This quiet part of a quiet county may be off the beaten track but those who appreciate good food will find much to discover along these green lanes, Give Montgomeryshire a try: I think you’ll find it to your taste.

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Restaurant Reviews

The Wynnstay Hotel, Machynlleth The Wynnstay is very much a reflection of its host town, Machynlleth. Historic, eclectic, a bit rambling and a characterful representation of the mish mash of people who call Machy home. Afterall, it is a market town that has Owain Glyndwr’s parliament, the only Museum of Modern Art outside of a major capital city and The Centre for Alternative Technology as neighbours, all allied to a tradition of hippy offgridding.

One area where it can slug it out with all comers is its food and drink offering, thanks to award winning chef Gareth Johns, who’s competed for Wales at the Culinary Olympics and has very recently been accepted into the exclusive Disciples of Escoffier (a hallmark of the best French cuisine), and bon viveur, wine aficionado and owner, Charles Dark.

Charles has a wine cellar stuffed with single estate wines, mainly from Italy, that you simply won’t find

elsewhere. His recommendation of a Dolcetto D’Alba from Alessandro Rivetto was a fine choice - subtle fruit, earthy and soft. Gareth has taken his wealth of experience, rooted in classically French cuisine, added a few twists from his life’s journeys as a competition chef, and added the best local ingredients to create a menu that sings.

First out of the traps was a stunning game terrine of pheasant, partridge, venison and black pudding. A light texture that was slightly moist but dry enough to crumble in the mouth, with a gentle quatre spice that added a delightful layer of richness to the gameyness of the meat, set off by a sweet tangy homemade chutney.

B chose the mushroom, relishing how its deep, savoury tone was cut through with a sharp but sweet vinaigrette, while its warm, heavy denseness was offset by the gentle bite of pine nuts.

My main of Ystwyth Pork with chestnut, bacon and red wine jus elevated the humble pig to another plane.

It was tender and much fuller of meaty flavour than we’ve come to expect of pork, important given the seriously awesome, multi-layered flavour profile of the sauce - nutty, bacony and deep wine and spice notes.

It’s a wonderfully unsubtle and moreish dish.

The vegetarian offering of grilled goat’s cheese was met with great enthusiasm by B. Not only was the dish a vibrant, visual delight, but the combination of rich caramelised roasted veg, alongside the sharp, crisp spring veg was intriguing and afforded an ideal structure to surround the warm, creamy softness of the goat’s cheese. The well-crafted edifice was topped with a pleasing golden cheese crown, offering a thrilling snap of umami.

The Welsh Lemon Tart is quite possibly the best I’ve tasted. It took a while to work out why, especially as it’s such a simple dish. Zingy lemon, cupped in crunchy shortcrust pastry served with local blackcurrants.

Every element was perfect, but put together they were outstanding - fresh, sweet, tart, acidic, crunchy, soft, moist, dry. It had everything. In a similar vein, B’s chocolate truffle terrine was a triumph of simplicity, with its deep, rich intensity off-set by refreshing icecream, embellished with a gentle nuttiness.

Feeling pleasingly satisfied by our meal, we withdrew to the Wynnstay’s comfortable lounge for a postprandial drink. Homely and genial, it perfectly suited our contented state. Even moreso when some locals picked up instruments and started an impromptu folk session. Not just a perfect end to our evening, but also a wonderful example of the warmth and camaraderie of the Wynnstay and an illustration of how a well-pitched hostelry can provide a welcome to fine diners, holidaymakers and its local community in one all-embracing establishment.

The Wynnstay, Heol Maengwyn, Machynlleth SY20 8AE. 01654 702941 www.wynnstay.wales

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MILFORD WATERFRONT

SUMMER

FEST2023

Join us this summer for a celebration of the sea with food, festivals and family fun, right in the heart of Pembrokeshire.

Win a £50 voucher

to spend at Milford Waterfront* To enter visit www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk/taste *Conditions apply. See online for details. Competition closes on 31st July 2023.

Find out more at www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk/summerfest

#visitmilfordhaven

Milford Haven 639

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33

News

Hold the front page Castell Howell leads Welsh wine revolution A leading supplier to the Welsh hospitality trade is looking to change the way in which quality wine is sold in Wales. Carmarthenshire-based Castell Howell, mindful of the rising costs faced by the hospitality industry and the soaring cost of glass, is working with Wine Consultant Charles Dark, to introduce its customers to the concept of high quality, single estate wines supplied in bags rather than the more traditional bottles.

Speaking about this innovation, Mr Dark said: ‘Castell Howell is really leading the way here as this concept of selling quality wines is new and makes so much sense. It’s not only more ecologically sound than importing heavy bottles, but it also offers the trade the opportunity to make better margins and sell better quality wines. It’s a win win. There’s no wastage, the quality of the wine is maintained, and the margins are better.’

He says: ‘All these wines are ‘single estate’ - as are all the finest wines in the world. They are not blended or treated making them so much cleaner than the industrial wines, which contain too many chemicals, too much sulphide and give a harsh finish - and hangovers!’

The 3-litre bag in boxes are also available to the public at Castell Howell’s Carmarthen cash and carry.

Find out more at: www.castellhowellfoods.co.uk www.wynnstay.wales

Making memories in Milford Visitors to Pembrokeshire this Summer are encouraged to make a visit to Milford Waterfront, an exciting new destination ‘where the land meets the sea’. Milford is the largest fishing port in Wales today, as well as being famous for its energy industry; and its fascinating naval history provides the backdrop for the stunning new developments which now grace the shoreline.

Just a stone’s throw away from Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, today’s Milford boasts some of the best restaurants in Wales, as well as three heritage walking trails, plus independent shops, galleries and other family attractions.

There’s also a full calendar of events to enjoy throughout the summer. Why not sit back and raise a glass to the swaggering pirates of times past at Milford’s Round Table Beer Festival, from noon on May 27th, at Mackerel Quay, which will feature live music, street food, plus ales, ciders, lagers, Pimms and Prosecco, or check out Milford’s Street Food Festival on August 4, 5 and 6.

For more local events and more go to www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk

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It’s rural showtime at Builth The Smallholding & Countryside Festival returns to the Royal Welsh Showground in Builth Wells, Mid Wales, this coming Spring. Taking place on Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st May, the festival is a celebration of rural life and country living with smallholding pursuits at its heart.

The weekend-long event is a showcase of the diversity of the Welsh countryside and a fantastic day out for families, garden enthusiasts and anyone with an interest in the great outdoors. The Smallholders Centre will be the main port of call for those wanting to learn more about the smallholder’s way of life. With a packed programme of livestock and equine competitions, displays, demonstrations, the Premier Open Dog Show, a Crufts 2024 Qualifier and more than 200 trade stands, live music and excellent food and drink from one of the many food stalls, there will be something for everyone.

The pinnacle event in the British agricultural calendar, the Royal Welsh Show, will then return to Builth from July 24th -27th. Along with an exciting four-days of livestock and equine competitions, with entries travelling from far and wide to compete, the show will offer a wide range of activities including forestry, horticulture, crafts, countryside sports, shopping, incredible food and drink, and a 12-hour programme of events each day.

This popular event, the Smallholding & Countryside Festival, and the Winter Fair, are all organised by the Royal Welsh Agricultural Society, which has played a leading role in the development of agriculture and the rural economy in Wales for more than a century since its formation in 1904. As well as organising its annual programme of events, it’s vital work includes providing support for businesses, social welfare and education in rural communities.

For earlybird festival tickets, and to find out more, go to rwas.wales / cafc.cymru

Spread of Heaven!

s, l, Morrison t Tesco, Lid s le a Available a in W ose stores M&S + Waitr

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35

News

Swansea launches local food charter Wales’ seaside city looks set to be the next Welsh region to become a Sustainable Food Place, an accolade has been achieved by Cardiff, North Powys, Monmouthshire, Vale, Rhondda Cynon Taff and Blaenau Gwent.

Driving the region’s food culture is Bwyd Abertawe, a collaborative group which includes people from across the food network, and which launched its food charter at the recent Swansea Conference.

Speaking about the charter, Dawn Lyle of Bwyd Abertawe said: “It’s a way for us to all collaborate and work together to be a strong voice for Swansea food, to connect the dots of all the good things that are happening and figure out between us how we can scale that and how we can grow the demands and the capacity for local food.”

For more information and to sign up to the charter go to Bwyd Abertawe — Environment Centre

Dragon cheese takes a bite of online sales A Welsh creamery business, which is owned by its 154 dairy farmer members, and last year won a remarkable 70 awards for its cheese and butter, has taken the exciting step to transform their online presence. A new website means customers will be able to buy direct from the South Caernarfon Creameries, as well as find it in local shops and restaurants across Wales.

With Covid 19, online sales of cheese began to soar, and so the company saw the opportunity to take a bite out of these sales. SCC Managing Director, Alan Wyn Jones added, “We must move with the times. Since launching our new website, it is interesting to see that well over half of those online sales were across the border to England, which is a market we are expanding in. We have also updated our stockists’ page on the website so customers can find out where their nearest supplier is.’

The creamery’s flagship award-winning Dragon brand produces over 17,000 tonnes of cheese per year at its dairy, near Pwllhelli in the stunning Llŷn peninsula.

The business was founded in 1938 when John Owen Roberts had a vision to see dairy farmers working together to market their milk.

For more information and to order go to dragonwales.co.uk and use discount code GET20 to get a healthy 20% off.

A Taste of Wales at Wales v England Guests at this year’s Guinness Six Nations Wales v England match were spoilt with a unique Welsh menu which celebrated the best of Welsh produce, with each element sourced on a road trip around the regions, and with videos of each visit forming part of the interactive menu.

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The menu which was served exclusively to Platinum Plus box holders was designed by leading Welsh chef Bryn Williams along with Principality Stadium Head Chef, Ryan Jones. Menu development saw Bryn and Ryan visiting Welsh food suppliers, farms and artisanal producers across the country including Norton Farm, a family run farm in Pembrokeshire that’s been producing potatoes for three generations; Castell Howell, producers of Celtic Pride Welsh beef; and Halen Mon Sea Salt in Anglesey.

Speaking about the collaborations, Tracey Maxwell, General Manager Principality Stadium Experience, said: “We’re delighted to be working with Welsh Chef Bryn Williams. Reducing food miles and sourcing locally is at the core of our business strategy at Principality Stadium. It’s a joy to be able to use our platform to promote the growing food culture we have in Wales.”

French meat buyers hooked by trip to Wales French delegates, some from the incredible Rungis market in Paris, the second largest wholesale food market in the world, have been visiting South Wales to find out more about how Welsh lamb is produced on family farms.

Hybu Cig Cymru - Meat Promotion Wales (HCC) hosted the delegation from the biggest export market for Welsh red meat, namely France. Speaking about the visit, HCC’s Head of Supply Chain Delivery, Jon Parker, said “France is a vital trading partner for Welsh farmers. Exports of lamb alone to the French market are worth over £70million a year to Wales, with significant quantities distributed through Rungis in Paris. The food service sector is growing again after two difficult years of Covid restrictions, so it’s vital that we engage with some of the leading food distribution companies in France at trade events and to show them first-hand how we produce Welsh Lamb.

“We have a great story to tell in terms of quality and environmental sustainability, and we’re determined that our loyal French customers and potential new partners are fully aware of the credentials of PGI Welsh Lamb.”

Award winning Welsh companies launch Real Ale Beef Jerky Award-winning Welsh snacks manufacturer Get Jerky has launched a brand-new beef jerky flavour for 2023, in collaboration with another multi-award winner, Monty’s Brewery at Montgomery, to add Real Ale Beef Jerky to its exciting range.

Get Jerky makes the new snack by marinating PGI Welsh Beef jerky in Dark Secret stout from Monty’s Brewery. Dark Secret, a rich full bodied, oatmeal stout full of chocolate and coffee flavours, is Monty’s Brewery’s best-selling, gluten free beer.

News Russ Honeyman from Monty’s Brewery said: “With Get Jerky being a matter of minutes away from the brewery, it seemed only fitting that we should approach them. We took a selection of our beers to Trailhead for them to experiment with and our gluten free ‘Dark Secret’ stout worked a treat!”

To buy your snacks, go to www.trailheadfinefoods. co.uk or visit www.montysbrewery.co.uk/productspage to discover more of Monty’s beers.

Bringing an end to Welsh food waste FareShare Cymru is seeking donations of surplus food from farmers and food producers to allow it to help the fight against food poverty by redistributing produce in some of Wales’ poorest communities. The Surplus with Purpose (SWP) fund allows businesses to donate surplus food without experiencing financial loss. So perfectly edible food can now go to help supply local communities which otherwise would have gone to waste.

The SWP fund covers the costs of labour, packaging, and transporting the food, FareShare is aware of the struggles businesses in Wales are facing with the rise of the cost-of-living crisis and wants to ensure it can support them, as well as its members. Surplus food could arise as a result of forecasting errors, order cancellations, packaging damage or overproduction.

And for food manufacturers, this could cover the costs of making surplus food ‘donation ready’, such as packaging, repackaging to smaller sizes, labelling, or transportation. For growers and farmers, this could cover intervention costs, and offset the expense of harvesting, storage, packing and transportation of surplus produce from their site to our warehouse.

Speaking about the project, Simon Stranks said: ‘Many firms that want to avoid sending surplus food to landfill currently send it for anaerobic digestion, or to produce animal feed to reduce landfill-bound waste.

We could use the fund to reimburse any loss of this income and ensure the food goes to a people-centric outlet like FareShare Cymru.’

By eliminating these barriers, businesses like Paviland Farm in Gower have been able to donate. Speaking about the experience, Louisa Harry-Thomas said: ‘After the peak season for pumpkins had passed, we reached out to FareShare Cymru who made it so easy to donate the pumpkins to their network of charities, but also covered the cost of transporting them to Cardiff. We’d be delighted to work with them again.’

If you are able to donate, go to fareshare.cymru/ for further details.

Awards success for west Wales distillery West Wales distillery In the Welsh Wind is celebrating the recent success of two of its spirits. Three Grain Vodka, launched in November 2023, has secured a Gold medal and ‘best in Wales’ in the Varietal Vodka category of the World Vodka Awards 2023. Three

Grain Vodka combines barley and rye malted and distilled at the distillery, with a wheat-based spirit. The judges were impressed with the “Distinct aromas of toasted grains giving a warm and inviting nose.” The judges remarked that “The palate has intense nutty grains and a lovely savouriness. Bags of character.”

Not only has the distillery’s Three Grain Vodka secured an impressive win recently, Noto Gin, one of the award-winning distillery’s ‘custom branded spirits’ has secured ninety-five points and a Gold medal at the prestigious International Wine and Spirits Competition.

Ellen Wakelam, co-founder of In the Welsh Wind, said “We’re tremendously excited with both these awards – both for our own Three Grain Vodka, and for Noto Gin, which is a gin we’ve created together with the brand’s owner Yuki Matsuda, and which we distil and export to Japan on an ongoing basis. It’s a testament to the continued hard work or our team that the spirits we produce here in west Wales continue to receive such amazing awards.”

To buy, go to www.inthewelshwind.co.uk

Capital rum seeks popular support Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum, a young Cardiff-based rum distillery, is planning to bring a silver and gold variation of the company’s award winning spiced rum to market this year, and launch a crowdfunding initiative aimed at supporting new jobs, new products and worldwide distribution.

Its silver rum will be a clear spirit, flavoured with botanicals that will be perfect for summer. And the golden rum will be aged for up to six years in the Caribbean with no spices intended. Both will be priced around £30.

Founded in 2020, Devil’s Bridge sets itself apart from its competitors by making high-quality aged rum without the use of added sugars. While many rum producers introduce sugar after the distillation process, Devil’s Bridge seeks a pure, refined flavour.

Its rum is matured in the Caribbean in ex-bourbon barrels and shipped to its distillery in Wales where it is flavoured with Bara Brith, and spices and botanicals are introduced, including Glengettie Black Tea, which is a favourite in Wales, and Shirgar Carmarthenshire Butter. The end result is a distinctively Welsh rum.

Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum won two gold medals at the 2021 World Rum Awards in the flavoured and botanicals categories and it also won a gold medal in the London Spirits Competition and was named Food and Drink Startup of the Year in the 2022 Welsh StartUp Awards.

Devil’s Bridge is currently recruiting, and is asking qualified applicants who have what it takes should to contact Monika at mk@wrcholdings.co.uk And to buy go to devilsbridgerum.com

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News Hywel Griffith from the Beach House.

The UWTSD International Gastronomy Management BA is unique in that its delivery provides students with personalised and unique experiences of ongoing placement over three years within service and kitchen management and other core restaurant activities, working with such venues as London’s City Social, Swansea’s Michelin star Beach House, and The Fernery at The Grove Narberth.

Welsh dairy business hits the screens It’s great to see the Welsh dairy business thriving after the challenges it faced through Covid. One family business which is going from strength to strength is Castle Dairies from Caerphilly which is rightly proud of its range of Welsh and British butter. It recently created its first TV advertising campaign. Speaking about the project, Marketing Executive Jake Stacey said: ‘This was Castle Dairies’ first ever TV advert, and the first time that we have participated in a collaborative project of this kind. The premise of the advert is to show that Castle Dairies is for everybody in the family regardless of age and to demonstrate the versatility of our product range across different uses and eating occasions. The campaign was very successful and is something that we are incredibly proud of as a company; showcasing the ambition to continue our brand growth journey into the future. We are grateful to Food & Drink Wales for giving us the opportunity to be involved!’

University of Wales Trinity Saint David student works with not one, but two Michelin starred chefs Jef Pasqual, a degree student on University of Wales Trinity Saint David’s (UWTSD) International Gastronomy Management programme has successfully completed work placements with two of Wales’ most renowned chefs – Gareth Ward from Ynyshir and

Jef explained. “A Michelin starred placement is exciting and daunting at the same time, It was an eye opener for me attending the lectures which explain the theoretical background and then going on placement and seeing them in practice. On placement, I’ve learnt how to use equipment, applying different techniques and skills.

I’ve also learned the importance of sourcing local quality ingredients. Chef Hywel Griffiths is calm by nature and leads by example. He is very certain in his ways and how he wants the food delivered. The one thing that stood out for me is when I asked him what he was looking for in an employee, he replied: ‘attitude over ability’. Chef Gareth Ward was very approachable.

His knowledge inspired me to re-create our Asian cuisine. And I love his idea of ‘fun dine not fine dine’ which focuses on the experience.

“While the degree is enhancing my skills and food knowledge, the placements have given me a taste of the real world. It has helped me to build my confidence and to be a better chef. And given me experiences that are truly memorable!”

Gareth Ward was equally effusive of the degree placement combination. “You learn both sides. You learn how kitchens run so you learn the practical and the theory at the same time. Students get a foot in the door, get to make friends with people who are already in the industry so when it comes to finding a job you’ve already got that first step.”

The reciprocal benefits for both student and restaurant are evident, and received praise from established chef Gareth Ward stating, “it’s great to have a smart, talented and keen student placement. When asked about his experiences with Jef, Gareth states “Unbelievable. The guy was incredible.” To support Gareth’s opinion, Jef during his easter break has sought a stage with Tom Simmons at Thomas of Pontcanna.

The University welcomes applications from employers on behalf of their staff, offering three-year degree level training can help with retention, upskilling and engagement.

UWTSD is keen to hear from employers who can offer placement opportunities for students, which can help them address staffing issues cost-effectively, and access future talent. To find out more go to www.uwtsd.ac.uk/ba-international-gastronomymanagement or email placement Programme Manager Ffion: F.Cumberbatch@uwtsd.ac.uk

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STRAEON LLETYGARWCH GWYCH YN DECHRAU YMA

GREAT HOSPITALITY STORIES START HERE A ydych chi’n barod ar gyfer eich pennod nesaf mewn lletygarwch? Dechreuwch eich gyrfa gyda gradd israddedig gennym ni:

Are you ready for your next chapter in hospitality? Start your career with an undergraduate degree from us:

Rheolaeth Gastronomeg Ryngwladol | BA (Hons) Rheolaeth Gwesty Rhyngwladol | BA (Hons)

International Gastronomy Management | BA (Hons) International Hotel Management | BA (Hons)

Yn PCYDDS, fe gewch chi gyfleoedd diwydiant blaenllaw ym Mwyty Beach House, Oxwich a Dorchester Collection, Marriott International, Hotels

by Hilton, i enwi ond ychydig. Cyflwynir ein rhaglenni ar leoliad mewn diwydiant a chyflwynir modiwlau ag addysgir ar-lein.

At UWTSD, you'll get leading placement opportunities in Beach House Restaurant, Oxwich and Dorchester Collection, Marriott International, Hotels by Hilton, to name a few. Our programmes are delivered on placement in industry and taught modules are delivered online.

Byddwch yn dysgu oddi wrth bobl broffesiynol a fydd yn dysgu popeth y mae angen i chi ei wybod – y sgiliau a’r wybodaeth sydd eu hangen arnoch i ymgymryd â’r byd fel myfyriwr graddedig hynod gyflogadwy.

You'll learn from the pros who'll teach you everything you need to know - the skills and knowledge you need to take on the world as a highly employable graduate.

Am ragor o wybodaeth, ewch i | For more information, visit: www.uwtsd.ac.uk/ba-international-gastronomy-management

Recipes

Creamy porc, leek and mushroom pie

Prep time: 20 mins/Cook time: 45 mins/ Serves 4

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • •

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1 tbsp oil 650g Welsh porc loin steaks or tenderloin, diced Small knob of butter 1 onion, chopped 1 leek, sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed ½ tsp dried sage or thyme 250g mushrooms (chestnut or button) 1 tbsp plain flour 200ml chicken stock 150ml double cream 1 tbsp Dijon mustard

• • •

Ready rolled puff pastry sheet 1 small egg, beaten Splash of milk

4.

Return the porc to the pan, and add the dried herbs and flour. Stir for a few minutes then gradually add the stock and stir through. Add the cream and mustard and bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 20 minutes.

5.

Pour the mixture into a pie dish and then top with the puff pastry. Trim the pastry.

Beat the egg with a little milk and use to brush over the pastry.

6.

Place in the oven for approximately 25 minutes until the pastry is golden.

7.

Serve with mash potatoes and greens.

Method 1.

Preheat the oven to 200˚C / 180˚C fan / Gas 6.

2.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the porc until nice and brown, then remove from the pan.

3.

In the same pan, add the onion, leek and garlic and fry for a few minutes to colour.

Add the butter, mushrooms, and more oil if required, and fry for a few minutes.

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www.porcblasus.cymru for more great Welsh porc recipes

Recipes

Welsh Beef Steak Chasseur Prep time:15 mins/Cook time: 15 mins/ Serves 2

Method

Ingredients

1.

•

2.

• • •

2 PGI Welsh Beef sirloin steaks (can use other steaks) 1 tbsp oil Knob of butter Seasoning

For the sauce: • 1 tbsp oil • 25g butter • 6 medium mushrooms • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 tbsp plain flour • 1 glass red wine • 2 tbsp brandy • 200ml rich beef stock • 3 tomatoes, chopped • 1 tsp tomato purée • Dash of Worcestershire sauce • Seasoning • Handful chopped parsley

Remove the steaks from the fridge 30 mins prior to cooking.

Make the sauce – place the oil and butter in a pan, then add the onion and mushrooms and fry gently for 5 minutes until softened.

6.

Heat the pan until hot, and add the oil.

Season the steaks and place in the hot pan.

7.

Cook on a high heat for few minutes (to your liking).

8.

Turn the steaks and add the butter. Baste the steaks whilst cooking with the melted butter and oil.

Cook for 2 minutes each side for medium rare (4 minutes for medium and 6 minutes for well done).

3.

Add the flour and stir well for 2 minutes, gradually add the wine and brandy and bring to the boil.

9.

4.

Add the stock, chopped tomatoes, purée, seasoning and Worcestershire sauce.

Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes until the sauce is nice and glossy and thickened. Add the chopped parsley.

10. Allow the steaks to rest for 5 minutes.

While the sauce is simmering, cook the steaks.

www.eatwelshlambandwelshbeef.com for more great Welsh meat dishes

5.

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11. Serve the steaks topped with the Chasseur sauce and sprinkle over a little chopped parsley.

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Recipes

Welsh Lamb jerk chops with rice and peas

Prep time: 20 mins/Cook time: 25 mins/ Serves 4

Ingredients • • • • • • • • •

4 PGI Welsh Lamb loin chops 1 onion, cut into wedges 2 tbsp oil 1 tbsp jerk seasoning 1 tbsp light brown sugar 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 lime, rind and juice Seasoning

For the rice and peas: • 1 tbsp oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 400g long grain rice

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• • • •

1 tin coconut milk 150g frozen peas Seasoning Rind of 1 lime to garnish

the chops on top. Cook for 20-25 minutes.

These can also be pan fried or cooked on the BBQ.

5.

To cook the rice, heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion and fry gently for 5 minutes to soften. Add the garlic, seasoning and stir for 1 minute.

6.

Add the rice, coconut milk and enough water to cover the rice by 2cm. Bring to the boil, place a lid on the pan and simmer gently until the rice is cooked – approximately 10 minutes. During the last few minutes, add the frozen peas and cook until the peas are cooked through and the liquid has been absorbed.

7.

Serve sprinkled with lime rind.

Method 1.

Make the jerk marinade by mixing together 1 tablespoon of the oil, jerk seasoning, brown sugar, garlic, vinegar, lime rind and juice and seasoning. Stir well and then use to coat the chops.

2.

Leave to stand for at least an hour.

3.

Preheat the oven to 200˚C / 180˚C fan / Gas 6.

4.

Place the onion in the bottom of an ovenproof dish or roasting tin and place

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www.eatwelshlambandwelshbeef.com for more great Welsh meat dishes

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The magazine that celebrates food and drink in Wales

Fantastic beers from the heart of MonMouthshire outhshire Brewery Shop OPEN Monday - Friday 10am - 5pm Saturday 10am - 3pm

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Recipes

Beetroot and Mixed Seed Burgers

Serves 8 | Prep time 30 minutes | Cook time 30 minutes

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • •

1 tablespoon olive oil 2 medium onions, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 200g mixed seeds (sunflower, pumpkin, golden linseed, hemp) 75g rolled oats 3 medium beetroots (about 425g), topped but unpeeled, roughly chopped 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon chilli powder 1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon tomato ketchup 2 replacement eggs (I use Orgran No Egg

• •

Egg Replacer, available in healthfood shops or online) Sea salt and black pepper Rapeseed oil, for frying

Method 1.

2.

3.

In a large heavy-based frying pan, heat the oil and gently fry the onions and garlic for 5-10 minutes until soft and translucent.

Put the rolled oats and 150g of the mixed seeds into a food processor and whizz to a coarse meal consistency. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Whizz the beetroot up until well chopped but not puréed. Add to the mixing bowl with the other ingredients, including the

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50g of whole seeds, stir and season well.

4.

Divide into 8 and squeeze together to make patties.

5.

Heat a tablespoon of rapeseed oil in a large heavy-based frying pan and fry the patties in batches for about 5 minutes on each side.

6.

Serve in fresh homemade rolls with crisp salad, homemade onion rings or sliced beef tomatoes.

Recipe from Happy Beans © Jane Reynolds, photograph © Huw Jones, published by Graffeg. The book is £9.99 and is available from your local bookshop, or online at www.graffeg.com.

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Recipes

Whisky Marmalade Bread & Butter Pudding

Serves 4-6 | Prep time 20 minutes | Cook time 35 minutes

Method

Ingredients

1.

• • • • • • • • • • • •

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½ loaf slightly stale white farmhouse bread, thickly sliced 175g non-dairy butter 175g marmalade 2 tablespoons cornflour 500ml soya milk 100g golden caster sugar 100ml whisky 1 teaspoon vanilla essence For the topping: 50g golden caster sugar ½ teaspoon ground mixed spice

Remove any hard crusts from the bread.

Spread with the butter and marmalade, cut the slices in half and layer in an ovenproof dish. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6.

2.

Mix a little of the milk into the cornflour to make a smooth paste.

3.

Heat the rest of the milk in a mediumsized heavy-based saucepan until almost boiling, remove from the heat and pour onto the cornflour mixture, stirring continuously.

4.

Return to the saucepan and bring to a

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simmer over low to medium heat, stirring often. After 2-3 minutes, add the sugar, whisky and vanilla essence. Cook very gently for a further 3-4 minutes.

5.

Pour over the bread, butter and marmalade, sprinkle with the sugar and mixed spice for the topping and bake in the oven for 30-35 minutes, until golden brown and bubbling.

6.

Allow to cool for 10 minutes. Serve with ice cream or custard.

Recipe from Happy Beans © Jane Reynolds, photograph © Huw Jones, published by Graffeg. The book is £9.99 and is available from your local bookshop, or online at www.graffeg.com.

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Our blends are sourced from a collection of old and new recipes. We sell our own brand of 46 loose leaf teas and accessories via online webshop.

We love to share our passion for tea in all its myriad forms and delight in inspiring our customers to try new flavours and recipes.We want to encourage our customers to think differently about they use tea and infusions for drinking and culinary use.

Our aromatic and flavour-rich blends are endlessly versatile; whether it be a satisfying cuppa, a delicate herbal pick-me-up, as an aromatic culinary ingredient or as a twist to an elegant cocktail. From black teas to caffeine-free, from herbal to fruit infusion – all our teas are blended for your enjoyment. You can drink our teas and infusions in the morning, mid-day, afternoon, evening - and as a nightcap.

T: 01938 552 303 | M: 07713 440 558 | E: hello@morgansbrewtea.co.uk | www.morgansbrewtea.co.uk Oldford House, Berriew Road, Welshpool, Powys SY21 7SS

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Food and Drink

Food Drink Reviews Keeping Up with The Jones’s Llandeilo based Jones and Co. Artisan Sauces offer an excellent range of high-quality artisanal condiments, which in addition to being leagues ahead of your typical big-name brands, are also suitable for veggies, vegans, and coeliacs.

Saws Brown is a must for fans of HP or Daddies brown sauces. Not overly sweet, it’s possible to pick out the various ingredients that go into the sauce’s making – including dates, tamarind, fennel, and star anise. Saws brown packs a flavourful punch and makes a great addition to a Full Welsh, rarebit, or sandwiches. Forget the greasy spoon sauces of old – this one deserves pride of place on your dining table.

Jones and Co.’s Saws Chilli is a versatile chilli sauce that errs towards savoury rather than sweet. This makes it a fantastic accompaniment to a whole host of dishes. Hot without being overpowering, and neither too sweet nor too dry; this is a warming, flavoursome treat with notes of pepper, ginger, garlic, and citrus.

Our new go to for spring rolls or Thai.

Their Saws BBQ is another success, thanks again to not being too sugary. Instead, the emphasis is on delicate smoke and delicate warming spices with notes of cloves coming through. Would be great with pork as a marinade or poured directly on to pulled pork.

Jones and Co. have hit the bull’s eye with these sauces all three should be in your larder.

From £3.25 Available through Castell Howell and independent retail.

Roll Out the Barolo Based on the north Wales coast in the shadow of Snowdonia beneath the ubiquitous falls, we’ve come to expect exceedingly fine spirits from north Wales’ first distillery in 100 years. Their single malt whisky, Aber Fall’s raison d’etre, has been making waves amongst whisky aficionados since first appearing a couple of years ago. It’s an excellent tipple and a go to in this household.

The focus for Aber Falls of late has been on limited editions, the most recent of which is a cask strength single malt that’s been aged in ex-Barolo barrels. Barolo is rich, floral and intense and widely considered to be Italy’s king of wines, so we’re off to a very promising start.

Neat, there’s dark chocolate on the nose, a mouthful of spice and fruitcake and an intense grape finish reminiscent of brandy or grappa.

When cut with water it’s much softer and reveals far more of itself. The chocolate is still prevalent on the

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nose, but in the mouth it’s more complex with a palette of herbs, possibly marjoram, walnut and dried berries.

The finish is long and all about the Barolo’s wine barrel – mainly grape but touches of rose and violet.

It’s a stunning and very well-layered whisky that reveals more of its complexity as you sip. Quite unlike any whiskey I’ve tasted (and I’ve tasted a fair few) and a great place to start if you want to venture into the murky depths of limited-edition malts. £65 www.aberfallsdistillery.com

Bravo Sabor De Amor From the sunshine of Salamanca to the mountains of Wales, the Albo family have bottled the flavours of Spain for us Celts to enjoy. Hailing from a tradition of chefs, Beatriz had cooking in her blood as her family famously ran ‘El Rom’a restaurant in Salamanca. She could not help but prepare Spanish delicacies for friends and family in her adopted country and when they clamoured for more, the Sabor de Amor ‘Taste of Love’ range was born.

Initially sold through farmers’ markets in North Wales, Sabor de Amor specialise in preparing sauces that bring the essence of Spanish cooking to Welsh kitchens. The range was elevated from its humble market origin to its current heady heights when the Paella in a Bottle was featured by none other than Tom Kerridge on BBC2’s ‘Top of the Shop’. Alongside that creation, Sabor de Amor also offer a Tapenade, a classic Aioli, an Aioli with Lime and the Salsa Brava we have tasted today.

First, we tried it straight, as a dip for nacho chips.

The sharp, sweet and peppery tomato was a perfect accompaniment to the salty crisp. Then we went typical using the sauce to create the characteristic dish, patatas bravas and the Spanish magic shone through. In moments we had transformed a pan of non-descript, sautéed potatoes into a sumptuous feast.

The sauce, which is beautifully seasoned to allow the richness of the ripe tomatoes to shine through, effortlessly complements the earthiness of the potatoes.

The hype had not over-promised. On a dark, wet, late spring evening in Wales we enjoyed a deeply satisfying and wonderfully warming dish, which delivered the warmth and vibrancy of its Iberian birthplace. ¡Perfecto! £4.50 www.sabodeamor.com

A Heartful of Soul For over 30 years the Watkins family have been supplying the world with well-balanced spring water that bubbles out of the Welsh earth from a source on their Heartsease farm, nestling deep in the Radnor Hills. Naturally filtered through ancient layers of rock,

Food and Drink it is not just rich in essential trace minerals, but is also exceptionally pure.

To make Heartsease sparkling soft drinks and pressés, the family combine their Radnorshire Spring Water with 100% natural ingredients, including wild elderflower, hand-picked in the UK and sunkissed Sicilian lemons gathered from trees around Mount Etna. Absolutely no artificial sweeteners or preservatives are used. We love the ethos of this family firm that sees environmental stewardship as fundamental, holds sustainability at its heart and is strengthened by its roots in the local community.

We tasted their Traditional Lemonade, Wild Elderflower Pressé, Fiery Ginger Beer and British Raspberry Lemonade. All were absolutely faultless.

The lemonade burst with the warmth of the Italian sunshine and the zesty, tang of citrus. Perfect for a summer’s day. The elderflower pressé offered a delicate, floral sophistication, reminiscent of a Jane Austen picnic. The raspberry lemonade was a complex drink that allowed a harmony of flavours to sing above a soft and gentle sweetness. And what can we say about the ginger beer? ‘Eat your heart out Famous Five’. We had lashings of the stuff and loved every mouthful! Again, there was no cloying sweetness here, just lemonygingerness and a pleasing heat, which lingered in the mouth. And then we got adventurous, using the drinks to liven up our early evening cocktails. The ginger beer, combined with lime and a Welsh rum elevated our Dark and Stormy to near perfection while the elderflower pressé offered a beautifully subtle sophistication to our Hugo. These are definitely grownup soft drinks, almost too good to be wasted on the kids. Magnificent on their own, but absolutely glorious when added to a cocktail. £15.99 per pack from radnorhills.co.uk

All Mead Up Hidden on the rural outskirts of New Quay, on a picturesque farm that was once a chapel is Afcon Mêl Honey Farm & Meadery.

In addition to award winning honey, they have their own meadery with one of the largest collections of real mead in the UK that includes sparkling, fruit, and classic, meads. Star of their range is their Great Taste Golden Fork winning Heather Mead.

And it’s this that forms the basis of their latest, limitededition meads, both of which have been aged in barrels previously used to mature Penderyn whisky. Penderyn are masters at selecting barrels to impart flavour, using anything from ex-Islay barrels to ex-sherry and Penderyn itself is a light and smooth whisky, which doesn’t overpower, so we’re off to a promising start.

The two Afon Mel have chosen are ex-Bourbon and ex-Madeira. The results are simply stunning.

The ex-Bourbon wows with hints of smoke, wood and fresh apple. The heather honey, with its naturally bolder profile, shines through though, thanks also to Penderyn’s gentle nature. If you’re not a fan of whisky

you needn’t worry – the heather mead is the dominant element, the whisky-aged barrel merely adds depth and complex notes, so any whiskiness is very much in the background. Likewise, the ex-Madeira, which is drier with a rich dark chocolate edge and a hint of freshly roasted coffee that smoulders on the palate.

Marvellous.

At their heart, the main reason they’re so amazingly good is the quality of the base mead. Add in the in the nuanced flavours imparted by the barrel and you have something truly special, not to mention unique. £40 each. www.afonmel.com

Y Deli-icious Based at the Carmarthenshire end of the Brecon Beacons, Y Deli is a relatively new venture specialising in handmade, artisanal produce. With plans to grow the range swiftly, they’ve hit the ground running with jams (which we’ll cover in another issue) and sauces – quite a few of them and many with novel, often exotic ingredients.

Their Papaya Ketchup was smooth, sweet and curried.

A drier and much more interesting and enjoyable alternative to mango chutney. It’s great way to jazz up a roast chicken sandwich to give it a tropical twist.

Having never tried Tigernut in any form before this Tigernut and Chilli Saws was intriguing. Much more savoury than sweet (like a dry wine) it was hot and spicy but with a warm mellow nuttiness. Though unusual and unfamiliar it was very pleasant. We really enjoyed experiencing a brand-new flavour.

The Baobab is a sacred and much celebrated tree that’s often used in cooking in South Africa, but little known in the UK. A real shame if this Baobab BBQ Saws is anything to go by. Rich and alluring with deep, smoky, almost earthy, notes and hints of pipe tobacco, it’s a lovely, novel taste that adds interesting complexity to a quality beef or vegetarian burger.

Y Deli’s Coconut Piri Saws is a complex and spicy offering that delivers a delicious dry and savoury flavour to chicken or halloumi. We loved the way the coconut was present but subtle. Much more grown-up and more pleasing than its commercial equivalent.

The Lemon, Garlic and Pepper Saws may have straight-forward ingredients, but boy does it have bold, strong flavours. With a fresh, zingy citrus background, warmed up by plentiful garlic and peppercorns it adds oomph, without heat, to anything it accompanies.

Excellent as a marinade for lamb or possibly as a dipping sauce for chicken.

This is a corker of a saws range, and we’d heartedly recommend each and every one but, gun to the head, go for the Baobob, or maybe the Chilli, or possibly the Tigernut…

From £3.10. Available at Castell Howell and independent retail

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Herald the spring!

Myfanwy Alexander I do not speak with any smugness when I say that I am a bad patient. Having been lucky enough to enjoy excellent health through almost all of my six decades, I am unused to feeling at all under the weather.

Over Christmas, a wise friend reminded me that I was suffering from a mild head cold, not ebola and even if my rasping breath does sound like a lethargic chipmunk in a metal cage, I would be fine in a day or two. My second cold of the winter, or was it the first cold of the spring, needed the remedial application of rice pudding, as therapeutic a food as you can find.

And it was this pudding, almost aggressively bland and warming, but made delicious by a big dollop of Llaeth y Llan Toffee Yoghurt, which started me thinking of spring eating and what to choose on lengthening days.

The first thing to remember is that a Welsh spring can be a cantankerous creature, operating to its own rules.

It is this unpredictability which makes lambing such a gamble, as opposed to a gambol (see what I did there?) and five years ago, March opened with the Beast from the East. For that reason, a sunny day in a Welsh spring can still deliver chills and we do need a bit of ballast on those evenings when the distant sound we hear during supper might be either the gritter or the holiday traffic rushing to the coast. Yet I always feel as the days draw out that we should be putting stodge behind us. If winter is the season for well-established warmers, often involving suet, the restlessness the season of renewal brings makes me long for novelty.

My solution to this is to look for dishes which are substantial but deliver a bit of a kick. Parsnip and bacon hash, for example, which is a sort of selfgenerating bubble and squeak available even when you haven’t had a roast to provide the left-overs, can be dialled up from standby to treat status with generous spoonsful of mustard. We currently have a lot of good mustard available to us in Wales. Welsh Lady have a wide range: I am always drawn to the gloriously named ‘Hell’s Mouth’ Mustard, which adds chilli, paprika and garlic to create a product with a fiery kick, capable of sending a shockwave through the dullest sandwich, but to go with my parsnip hash without overpowering it, their Leek Mustard is perfect. Beer mustards are ideal for Welsh rarebit, of course, and if you are looking for an excuse to pop into the inspirational farm shop at Rhug, they stock Welsh Speciality Foods take on beer mustard using the iconic Felinfoel Double Dragon Ale. Spring, Wales, carbs; we must be heading towards new potatoes. At this time of year, the Pembrokeshire Earlies are so delicious that they don’t need anything more than a little Sir Gar butter and a sprinkling

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of Halen Mon. As they go past their first exquisite freshness, it’s time for a bit more imagination. Blas yTir suggest using earlies in Tabbouleh in the place of the traditional bulgar wheat. Not only is it an utterly delicious taste on a Middle Eastern classic dish, it is also gluten free. New potatoes, halved if necessary, form an ideal complement to sauces you might normally associate with pasta: layering them in a shallow dish with bacon, mushrooms, cream, garlic and black pepper gives an earthy fusion dish. If I called this anything like ‘Carbonara’ I would excite the wrath of my Tuscan brother-in-law but perhaps we could call it Cleddau Carbonara, just between ourselves?

When I was young, we grew our own maincrop potatoes on a stony little field ridged up for us by a neighbour with a horse plough hitched behind the sort of tractor always known as a ‘Fergie bach.’ It was tough but rewarding work, setting the seed potatoes, weeding, re-ridging with a spade if necessary and then the back-breaking treasure hunt of the harvest.

One year, my father had injured himself and wasn’t therefore able to harvest the potatoes. I had always loved the process of lifting the potatoes, especially the moment when you hold up the plant and shake it free of soil, then, as if that were not satisfying enough, you sift through the mounded soil to retrieve usually double what was left on the roots. However, doing whole harvest on my own was daunting and, on my fifth or sixth barrow load, I popped my head over the double door to ask my mother for help. ‘I think not, my dear,’ she replied: ‘digging up potatoes is hardly the sort of thing a lady does.’ I bristled at this: ‘But I’m a lady too,’ I declared. My mother came to the half door to look at me then replied, cooly: ‘The evidence doesn’t seem to support that assertion, I’m afraid.’ So off I stomped to fetch another barrowload.

The potatoes would last us through the winter, stored in a mound in a corner of the yard, surprisingly untroubled by the psychopathic geese. In spring, the potatoes would have begun to soften, though not sprout and needed to be eaten. My father made the best roast potatoes in the world but we also ate a lot of what might be called ‘variant mash,’ adding in onions, especially when the first spring onions emerged from our neighbour’s vegetable garden, as well as cheese and bacon. From family in the Netherlands, we had learnt to add fried sliced kale and bacon to our mash to make Stamppot, long before kale was a fashionable superfood. I think it was those valued spuds, raised through the sweat of my brow, which gave me my seasonal taste for enhanced roots; comfort and zing, herald the spring.

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PGI WELSH LAMB AND BUTTER BEAN STEW

PORC AND APRICOT TAGINE

Springtime saviours.

Fresh, flavoursome and fuss free…

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ASIAN PGI WELSH BEEF AND NOODLE SALAD