taste.blas magazine - summer 2023 by taste.blas_magazine

Celebrating great food and drink in Wales

Summer 2023

BLAST OFF

Get ready for BlasCymru/TasteWales 23

TEA-LICIOUS

Afternoon Tea, the Welsh way

CRAFT FOOD ARTISAN The magazine for food artisans!

FROM ABER WYTH LOVE

Foodie delights in Ceredigion

BLIND CIDERED

Tipples for a warm evening

INDEPENDENCE DAYS

Great Welsh produce for the summer

PLUS FOOD AND DRINK REVIEWS, NEWS, COOKING TIPS AND RECIPES GALORE

A J OUR N E Y O F T AS T E AND DI SCO V E R Y

VISIT NORTH WALES’ FIRST WHISKY DISTILLERY IN OVER 100 YEARS 

Distiillery Tours



Gift Shop



Gin Lab Experience



Café

Aberfallsdistillery.com

01248 209224

Publisher’s Letter Strengthening the bonds Food and drink bonds us and brings us together. Whether it be over the table at Sunday dinner with family, a stress busting drink after work with colleagues or a night of frivolity and fun with friends. It also bonds us as a people. Here in Wales, we may sometimes struggle to point to a style of cuisine that is identifiably Welsh but we can be sure that we produce some of the best produce in the world, thanks to the natural bounty of our landscape and the hard work and passion of our artisan producers. This is something we have every right to be proud of, and nor should we absentmindedly forget it. There are a number of key events in the Welsh foodie calendar approaching that seek to bring us together and by so doing strengthen the bonds that unite us, and further enhance Wales’ reputation as a remarkable source of food and drink. We need to support them. Among them are the Royal Welsh

Show, the Abergavenny Food Festival, the Amgueddfa Cymru Food Festival at St Fagan and, for the trade, BlasCymru/TasteWales 2023 to name just a few. You can read about these events, and many others, in this issue and with them a few pointers towards artisan ciders, a delightfully Welsh cream tea and some proudly independent producers. Plus, of course, our regular product and restaurant reviews, recipes, columns from Jon Gower, Myfanwy Alexander and Caroline Sarl, all as thought-provoking as ever. Lastly, check out Craft Food Artisan magazine – a fascinating insight into the efforts of the Culinary Association of Wales to put Wales firmly on the culinary map.

Paul Mulligan Publisher

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Contributors: Jon Gower, Myfanwy

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To receive taste.blas call: 029 2019 0224 taste.blas Magazine is published by Conroy Media Ltd, PO Box 607, Cardiﬀ CF24 1ZR ©Conroy Media 2019. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers can not be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views expressed in taste.blas are not necessarily those of the editor or the publishers.

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Contents Features De-ciderly Good Apple-ing drinks for a summer’s eve

Independently Minded These proudly independent Welsh businesses buck the trend

A Tea-riffic Afternoon Welsh tea, cakes and jams - yummy

Fasten Your Seat Belts BlasCymru/TasteWales 2023 is ready to launch

Festival Fever Festival season gathers steam

Mad About Aber Ceredigion’s foodie diamond in the rough

Education, education, education Qualifications are key to success in hospitality

www.taste-blas.co.uk

8 12 15 18 27 28 32

Regulars Literary Grapes Jon Gower’s food and drink journey through Welsh Literature

Mind your language Caroline Sarll’s not happy about Tofurky, or peli cig fegan

Hold the Front Page The latest news hot off the press

Restaurant Reviews Wine dining in Hebron

Recipes Fire up the Bar.B, it’s summer

Finger Lickin’ Treats Let our food and drink reviews tickle your taste buds

Berry Good Myfanwy gets fruity

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©Marian Delyth

Jon Gower Odes to Food Food, being one of the constants of life, is a consistent and sometimes delicious feature of Welsh literature. Even English writers took our native food and ingredients as a subject, sometimes writing about them in very approving tones. The playwright Ben Jonson, for instance, in his masque For the Honour of Wales lists various ‘provisions for the bellie’ such as kid and goat and cow. But also suggests ‘And once but taste o’ the Welsh-mutton,/Your Englis-s’eep not worth a button.’ Were he alive today Jonson might get himself some work as a copywriter for Hybu Cig Cymru/Meat Promotion Wales. There is food and then there is feast, not least in the famous court at Sycharth, being Owain Glyndŵr’s courtly home in Llansilin in Powys. Here, according to a fine poem by Iolo Goch, there were vineyards supplying the most local wine you could get and ‘Spirits and finest bragget,/All liquors, white bread and wine,/With meat and fire in the kitchen.../There’ll be no lack of gifts,/No fault, no famine, no shame,/No thirst ever in Sycharth.’ Where there’s wine there’s usually a bit of cheese. The leg-pulling poet John Taylor suggested that if there was enough of it the Welsh would be willing to organize their own space mission. As he suggested ‘The way to make a Welshman thirst for bliss,/And say his prayers daily on his knees/Is to persuade him that most certain ‘t is/The moon is made of nothing but green cheese;/ And he’ll desire of God no greater boon/But place in heav’n to feed upon the moon.’ One imagines Dai the Astronaut doing his full training with NASA just so he could eventually arrange a fondue party in a quiet corner of a lunar crater. To a hungry man some bread and cheese – preferably not that green – would be a veritable feast. Another poet, Edward Thomas, suggested in his book called Wales, that the plainest meal would please a starving man. It could be made up of ‘barley bread and a pale ‘double Caermarthen’ cheese, which you cut with a hatchet after casting it on the floor and making it bounce, to be sure it is a double Caermarthen.’ It suggests you could use small cheeseballs to play squash, or that cheesemaking is a bit of a racket.

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Staying in Carmarthen, or at least in Carmarthenshire, we know that the famously bibulous Dylan Thomas would probably favour beer over food if he had to choose. A great fan of a quiet pint or four in Brown’s Hotel in Laugharne, Dylan is little short of rhapsodic when it comes to hymning ale. As he lip-smackingly puts it, ‘I liked the taste of beer, its live, white lather, its brass-bright depths, the sudden world through the wet-brown walls of the glass, the tilted rush to the lips and the slow swallowing down to the lapping belly, the salt on the tongue, the foam at the corners.’ Coming up to date, one of the best informed poets when it comes to food is Cardiffian Peter Finch. His volume called Food features very funny poems such as “The Tao of Dining,” which starts... ‘We go into a restaurant and the bill is thirty/before we sit. The waiter sells us five pound/Chardonnay for thirty./The menu reads like a/Language test. Understanding creeps we go/Limp and warm. I want a full plate three bread/Rolls I get a biscuit and a pool of yellow in its centre a centimetred fish...’ It’s a poem you now read allowing for inflation. Elsewhere Finch makes a tasty art out of wordpunning, as the opening lines of “Cookery Lesson” amply demonstrate. ‘You swede thing, lettuce go/to marrow it’ll all be spinach.’ But I’ll hand over the last lines to John Tripp, a living hand grenade of a writer who could be merciless in his satire. In his “If You Ask a Welshman to Dinner” he suggests that if you ‘stuff a dishcloth in his mouth/he should be unable to sing “Land of my Fathers...”’ ‘...And if you’ve remembered to mine the front lawn, Hired a bouncer from Soho, and posted your neighbour with a machine-gun at the back – you might be able to enjoy a very, pleasant, memorable evening.’ Consider yourselves warned.

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Welsh

Savour the

As summer rolls in, bringing with it warm sunshine (hopefully) and vibrant landscapes, there’s no better time to embark on a culinary adventure and indulge in the unique flavours of Wales. Nestled amidst lush green valleys and picturesque orchards, Wales has quietly emerged as a haven for cider lovers, offering a delightful array of handcrafted ciders that capture the essence of this enchanting region. Welsh ciders, like the landscape they call home, boast a character that is as diverse as it is intriguing. Whether you prefer the crisp and refreshing notes of a traditional farmhouse cider or the intriguing blends that marry heritage apple varieties with innovative techniques, Wales has something to tantalise every taste bud. Here are just a handful of our favourites.

Tomos Watkin’s Taffy Apple Cider If you’re in search of a cider that perfectly encapsulates the essence of Welsh craftsmanship and tantalizes your taste buds with a unique flavour profile, look no further than Tomos Watkin’s Taffy Apple Cider. This cider perfectly combines Welsh craftsmanship, tradition, innovation, and whimsy. It strikes a balance between the sweetness of apples and a subtle tartness, making it refreshing and enjoyable even on hot summer days. Tomos Watkin’s Taffy Apples cider has become a symbol of distinction in South Wales and other regions. This remarkable Celtic beverage, known for its potency, refreshing nature, and unquestionable delectability, exhibits a delicate golden-honey colour and a pleasant scent of sweet apples. For a transformative experience, give it a try with some ice. (£2.00 / 500cl bottle. Visit tomoswatkin.com for details).

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Ciders

Flavours Gwynt y Ddraig’s Black Dragon Cider For those seeking a cider that pushes boundaries, this cider offers a captivating and bold experience. Each sip unveils new layers of complexity, making it a thrilling choice for both seasoned cider enthusiasts and newcomers to the craft cider world. This extraordinary creation captures the essence of a classic cider while introducing an unexpected twist that leaves a lasting impression. Its bold and captivating nature will leave you yearning for more, as each sip unveils new layers of complexity. (£30 / 500ml x 12 bottles. Visit gwyntcidershop.com for details).

Hallets Rum Cask Cider This cider combines two beloved traditions to create a surprising and delightful beverage. It brings a touch of the Caribbean to Welsh cider orchards, resulting in a unique and unforgettable drinking experience. Hallets Rum Cask Cider is a must-try. Its adventurous spirit and impeccable craftsmanship make it an ideal choice for those who crave a unique and unforgettable cider experience that combines the best of two worlds. (£65.16 / 20Ltr bag in box. Visit halletsrealcider.co.uk for details).

Welsh Mountain Cider’s Red Streak What makes Welsh Mountain Cider’s Red Streak truly special is its commitment to showcasing the unique qualities of heritage apple varieties. The carefully selected Red Streak apples bring a distinct and bold character to this cider, creating a taste experience that is both invigorating and satisfying. Whether enjoyed on a sunny afternoon picnic or paired with a hearty meal, Red Streak Cider offers a delightful balance of flavours that is sure to please cider enthusiasts of all kinds. Welsh Mountain Cider’s dedication to quality and craftsmanship shines through in every sip, making Red Streak Cider a must-try for those seeking a tangy and vibrant Welsh cider experience. (£8.50 / 75cl bottle. Visit welshmountaincider.com for details).

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Rosie’s Triple D Sweet Cider Perfect for those with a sweet tooth, this cider strikes a blissful harmony between sweetness and refreshment. Its golden hue, gentle carbonation, and velvety texture make it a true indulgence, complemented by the crispness of ripe orchard apples. Whether enjoyed on its own as a delightful dessert companion or paired with a cheese board for a balanced tasting experience, this cider is a true treat for those with a sweet tooth. (£38 / 12 x 500ml bottles. Visit rosiescider.co.uk for details).

Gower Brewery’s Smugglers Cider This hidden gem embodies the rugged spirit of the Welsh coastline. It captures the allure of the Gower Peninsula, with its golden amber hue, aroma of crisp apples, and refreshing character. Each sip takes you on a sensory journey to the picturesque shores of Gower. Gower Brewery’s Smugglers Cider captures the essence of the region with finesse. It is a tribute to the rugged charm and natural beauty of Gower, crafted with passion and care. Whether you’re a cider enthusiast or simply appreciate the allure of coastal living, Smugglers Cider is a must-try. Celebrate the tales of smugglers and the coastal heritage that inspired it.

Apply Country Cider’s Dabinett medium cider. The Dabinett medium cider by Apply Country Cider is a delightful and refreshing beverage that strikes the perfect balance between sweetness and acidity. With each sip, you’re greeted by the distinct flavours of Dabinett apples, which bring a pleasant tartness to the cider. The medium body of the cider is smooth and easy to drink, making it a great choice for both cider enthusiasts and newcomers alike. The craftsmanship and attention to detail shine through in every aspect, from the beautiful amber colour to the crisp and clean finish. Overall, Apply Country Cider’s Dabinett medium cider is a true cider lover’s delight. (12 x 500ml bottles, £44 from applecountycider.co.uk)

(£17.59 / 8 x 500ml bottles. Visit gowerbrewery.com for details).

Ty Gwyn’s Dabinett Medium Cider This exceptional beverage is robust and rich in flavour, making it the ultimate aspiration for every Dabinett apple. Its remarkable taste has earned it prestigious Great Taste Awards in 2016, 2018, and 2022. Unlike most ciders that undergo a mere six-month maturation period, this cider is patiently aged for an entire year, further enhancing its quality and character. (12 x 500ml bottles, £46 from tygwyncider.co.uk)

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In conclusion, exploring the essence of Welsh ciders is an adventure for the senses. From Tomos Watkin’s Taffy Apple Cider, with its whimsical yet refreshing flavour profile, to Gwynt y Ddraig’s Black Dragon Cider, which pushes the boundaries with its bold and captivating complexity, each cider offers a unique experience worth savouring. Welsh Mountain Cider’s Red Streak impresses with its commitment to heritage apple varieties, striking a perfect balance of tanginess and vibrancy. Hallets Rum Cask Cider brings a touch of the Caribbean to the Welsh orchards, creating an unforgettable fusion of traditions. Rosie’s Triple D Sweet Cider indulges the sweet tooth with its luscious sweetness, while Gower Brewery’s Smugglers Cider captures the rugged spirit of the coast with its crisp and refreshing character. These ciders highlight the diverse flavours and craftsmanship that make Welsh ciders a treasure to discover. So, raise a glass and immerse yourself in the captivating world of Welsh ciders, where each sip tells a story of tradition, innovation, and the natural beauty of Wales.

IT’S GOOD TO BE HOLM

Award Winning Dining

Holm House, Marine Parade, Penarth CF64 3BG 02920 706029 | reservations@holmhousehotel.co.uk

A summer

celebrating independent

With plenty of sunshine so far this summer, Wales’ beaches, parks and gardens are going to see plenty of opportunities for alfresco eating and drinking. So, it’s a great time to take a look at some of the independent Welsh food and drink producers providing the ingredients for the perfect picnics, barbecues and garden parties. Ten top Welsh indie food heroes tell us about what they’ve got on offer for a summer of great outdoor feasting:

SAMOSACO -

‘We bring the Atma (soul, spirit), from our family to yours’ “Step into the heart-warming tale of SamosaCo, where our journey began four decades ago in a cosy Asian grocery store in Toronto. We relocated to the UK in the 80s and today we run our state-of-the-art samosa factory in Cardiff. With love and passion, we craft samosas that delight our customers with their homemade and irresistible flavours. We call it bringing you ‘Atma’ or soul/spirit - it’s all about savouring the SamosaCo deliciousness alongside your loved ones, creating cherished moments and embracing the spirit of togetherness.”

DROP BEAR BEER -

‘Pioneering flavourful, 0.5% beer. All Beer, No Booze’ “Drop Bear Beer is a renowned brewer of craft beers with a delightful twist—they’re all non-alcoholic! Committed to not only satisfying your taste buds but also making a positive impact on the world, we are a B-Corp certified company, who are proud to be the world’s first carbon neutral non-alcoholic brewer. Vegan and gluten-free, with a Drop Bear Beer you can enjoy the rich flavours and join-in with us in building a better world, one sip at a time.” More info: dropbearbeers.com

More info: samosaco.co.uk

TRAILHEAD GET JERKY -

‘Handcrafted, full flavour & high protein’

DRAGON CHEESE ‘Every day, every way’

“Trailhead Get Jerky is an artisan beef and venison jerky made from handcrafted cuts of responsibly sourced PGI Welsh Beef and locally sourced wild venison. We’re based in Welshpool and make a wide range of flavoured jerky, marinating it for 24 hours in our unique recipes to make a product that is high in protein, gluten free and tastes great. Look out for Get Jerky in delis and artisan retailers throughout Wales in flavours including spicy chilli beef, black garlic venison and spicy chilli venison.”

“In our world, every day is a celebration of mouthwatering flavours and culinary possibilities. Our high-quality Welsh cheese is crafted with care to be savoured by all - no matter your cooking expertise, Dragon cheese is here to elevate your everyday meals in countless ways. Our Mature Welsh Cheddar is meticulously made from the finest milk sourced from our co-operative farmers, using time-honoured recipes that result in a cheese that’s brimming with flavour. Unleash your creativity, embark on a taste adventure like never before, and explore the endless possibilities with Dragon Welsh cheese!”

More info: trailheadfinefoods.co.uk

More info: dragonwales.co.uk

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of taste

Welsh producers HALEN MÔN -

LLAETH Y LLAN -

“We specialise in interesting, unusual, and delicious sea salt and seasonings that bring depth and flavour to your cooking. Sea salt is where we started and our speciality: we make ours by hand from the seawater that surrounds the beautiful island of Anglesey. We also have a smokery where we make our awardwinning ‘Smoked Water’ – a 100% natural condiment that brings depth to a huge range of foods. We started our business because we love the landscape of Wales, and wanted to make our home here. It makes sense then that we look after it – and we have won the Queen’s Award for sustainability in recognition of our commitment to being as green as we can.”

“Llaeth Y Llan is a family-owned producer of highquality yogurt, available in 15 delicious flavours at major retailers, independent shops, and farm shops. We’ve come a long way since our founders’ first yogurt trials in their farmhouse airing cupboard in 1985! Today, at Llaeth Y Llan, we’re passionate about creating delicious and nutritious yogurt while also being mindful of our impact on the environment.Try our Natural Greek Style yogurt in a whole range of recipes, dips, dressings and sauces this summer.

‘Good Food is made great by Halen Môn sea salt’

‘Every pot bursting with cariad’

More info: villagedairy.co.uk

More info: halenmon.com

COALTOWN COFFEE -

‘Subscribe to the new black gold’ “We founded Coaltown Coffee in our hometown of Ammanford, a town that relied on Anthracite coal for its economy until the last collieries closed in 2003. So we set up Coaltown, a speciality coffee roastery to bring a new industry - and a new form of black gold - back to the town we love. As a B Corp certified business, Coaltown Coffee is committed to implementing sustainable and ethical practices, so customers can enjoy their favourite coffee while supporting a socially responsible business.” More info: coaltowncoﬀee.co.uk

BRECON CARREG -

‘A taste of Wales in every sip’ “Brecon Carreg’s new range of Tonic Waters are produced locally with fresh and natural Brecon Carreg mineral water. Our revitalising low-calorie Welsh tonics include classic, light, lemon and grapefruit flavours. Whether you enjoy a classic gin and tonic or simply want a refreshing non-alcoholic beverage, Brecon Carreg tonic waters are sure to satisfy your taste buds. Available throughout Wales in Tesco, Asda, Morrisons, Castell Howell and CK Food stores.” More info: breconwater.co.uk

BRACE’S BAKERY ‘For Every Generation’

PENDERYN DISTILLERY -

“Brace’s Bread has been a beloved choice for Welsh families since 1902. With our range of bread and baked products, you can experience a taste of tradition and enjoy its versatility in various recipes. From breakfast toast to lunch sandwiches and supper accompaniments, Brace’s Bread has been bringing families together around the table for years. Find our products in local stores and major retailers to enjoy the deliciousness of Brace’s Bread yourself.”

“Penderyn embodies a revival of the lost art of Welsh whisky-making, when a group of friends in the late 1990s embarked on a mission to create a whisky as precious as Welsh gold, symbolised by their globally renowned premium ‘Gold’ collection. Whether you’re a connoisseur or simply appreciate the finer things in life, these premium whiskies are sure to impress with their depth of flavour and smooth, satisfying finish.”

More info: bracesbakery.co.uk

‘Pioneers in World Whisky’

More info: penderyn.wales

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amgueddfa.cymru

museum.wales

Mynediad am ddim | Free entry Sain Ffagan Amgueddfa Werin Cymru St Fagans National Museum of History

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Time for Tea From the delicate clink of porcelain cups to the tantalizing aroma of freshly brewed tea, an afternoon tea experience offers a respite from the hustle and bustle of modern life, inviting us to slow down and relish the simple pleasures in life. Join us on a journey together to find the perfect products you’ll need for an afternoon tea that will awaken your senses and leave a lasting impression on all those fortunate enough to join you.

Welsh Brew Tea

Morgan’s Brew

Welsh Brew tea is a delightful and robust brew that captures the essence of Wales in every sip. Its rich, malty flavour is a perfect blend of black teas sourced from the finest tea gardens. Whether enjoyed with a dash of milk or simply black, Welsh Brew tea offers a comforting and satisfying experience. It’s a true delight for tea lovers, delivering a taste that is distinctly Welsh and a testament to the country’s rich tea-drinking tradition.

Morgan’s Brew Morgan’s Grey tea is a twist on the classic Earl Grey. This unique blend combines high-quality black tea leaves with the subtle and citrusy notes of bergamot, resulting in a refreshing and aromatic cup of tea. The tea leaves are carefully sourced and expertly blended, ensuring a consistent and flavourful brew every time. Morgan’s Grey tea is a wonderful choice for those seeking a revitalizing and sophisticated tea experience that is both traditional and innovative.

(£1.95 x 40 Tea Bags, available at welshbrewtea.co.uk).

(£5.40 x 100g, available at morgansbrewtea.co.uk)

Peterston Tea Peterston Tea’s ‘Tost’ - Toasted Green Tea is a unique offering for tea enthusiasts. This tea takes the traditional green tea experience to a whole new level with its toasty and nutty flavour profile. The balance between the toasted notes and the natural sweetness of the green tea creates a harmonious and captivating brew. (£16.00 x 12g, available at peterstontea.com) The second essential component to an afternoon tea is cake, confectionary and preserves. We’ve sourced our favourites from around Wales to complete your perfect tea.

Henllan Bakery Of course, it wouldn’t be an afternoon tea without scones. These heavenly pastries boast a perfect balance of lightness and flakiness, with a golden exterior that is both inviting and appetizing. Each bite unveils a meltin-your-mouth sensation, accompanied by the subtle hint of buttery goodness. The scones are available in a variety of flavours, from classic fruit to indulgent chocolate chip, catering to every palate. Pair them with clotted cream and strawberry jam for the ultimate indulgence.

Popty Bakery

(Available at henllanbread.co.uk)

(Available at popty.co.uk)

Of course, an afternoon tea isn’t complete without something sweet. Popty Bakery’s traditional Bara Brith blends the traditional with spoonsful of flavour. Paired with a mellow tea, the subtle flavours and sharpness of the fruits used make this the perfect centrepiece to your afternoon tea. Our top tip would be to spread the saltiest of butters on every slice!

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Village Bakery

Radnor Preserves

Jones’ Village Bakery’s Welsh Cakes are an absolute delight for the taste buds. These delectable treats are a testament to the bakery’s expertise in crafting mouthwatering pastries. Each bite reveals a burst of flavour, whether it’s the classic fruit scone with plump raisins or the indulgent chocolate chip variation. Whether enjoyed warm or at room temperature, Jones’ Village Bakery’s scones are a must-try for any scone aficionado seeking a taste of bakery perfection.

Radnor Preserves’ Hand-Cut Snowdon Marmalade is a true treasure among marmalades. The attention to detail in hand-cutting the citrus fruits is evident in every jar. The texture is thick and chunky, providing a delightful contrast to the smoothness of the spread. Each spoonful bursts with the zesty essence of Snowdonia, transporting you to the picturesque Welsh mountains.

(Available at villagebakery.co.uk)

(£5.79 x 240g, available at radnorpreserves.com)

Penylan Preserves Penylan Preserves Raspberry & Amaretto jam is a true gem for jam enthusiasts. The combination of ripe raspberries and the subtle warmth of amaretto creates a harmonious blend of flavours that is both luxurious and comforting. The texture is smooth and luscious, allowing the jam to spread effortlessly on toast or scones. Penylan Preserves Raspberry & Amaretto jam is a delightful indulgence that adds a touch of sophistication to any breakfast or afternoon tea. (£4.55 x 226g, available at penylanpreserves.co.uk)

The Preservation Society’s The Preservation Society’s Strawberry and Prosecco jam seamlessly blends the sweetness of fresh strawberries with the effervescence of Prosecco, resulting in a symphony of flavours that dance on the palate. The jam boasts a velvety texture, perfect for spreading on warm toast or scones. The Preservation Society’s attention to detail and commitment to using the finest ingredients shine through, making this Strawberry and Prosecco jam a luxurious indulgence that will leave you craving more.

Castle Dairies Castle Dairies’ Salted Welsh Butter is a culinary gem that embodies the rich and creamy essence of traditional Welsh butter. The texture is velvety and smooth, making it ideal for spreading on warm toast or enhancing the taste of freshly baked goods. The butter is made with the highest quality ingredients and crafted with care, resulting in a product that exudes exceptional taste and authenticity. Castle Dairies’ Salted Welsh Butter is a true delight for butter enthusiasts, elevating every culinary creation with its unrivalled quality and flavour. (Available at castledairies.co.uk)

(£4.65 x 225g, available at thepreservationsociety.co.uk)

Daffodil Foods

From the Llyn Peninsula comes Wales’ only clotted cream. Using cream from local dairy farms, and after many years of painstaking trial and error, Daffodil Foods have produced a wonderfully rich and indulgent clotted cream that is more than a rival for the traditional mainstays from Devon and Cornwall. This delightfully thick clotted cream is bursting with flavour and works just as well on bara brith as it does on a scone. Daffodil also do extra-special hampers with everything you need for a complete, Deluxe Welsh Afternoon Tea.

Shirgar Butter

www.daﬀodilfoods.co.uk

(£2.10 x 250g, available at tesco.com)

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Shirgar Butter is a true testament to the unparalleled excellence of Welsh dairy. This rich and creamy butter is a delight for the senses, with its golden hue and velvety texture. Each bite unveils a luxurious, meltin-your-mouth experience, leaving behind a lingering richness that sets it apart. The butter’s exceptional flavour profile is both sweet and savoury, with a perfect balance that enhances any dish it graces.

CARAMELS HOT CHOCOLATES GRANOLAS NOW ALSO AVAILABLE IN CATERING PACKS

bringing real Welsh produce to your pantry... www.taste-blas.co.uk

The countdown BlasCymru/TasteWales 2023 – the Welsh food and drink industry’s flagship trade event – is poised to again unite producers, national and international buyers and food industry professionals all under one roof at the International Convention Centre Wales in Newport’s Celtic Manor Resort this autumn. Organised by the Welsh Government’s Food and Drink Wales division, this unique two-day, biennial show piece – first held back in 2017 – offers those aspiring to be at the forefront of our burgeoning food industry unrivalled opportunities to network with influential UK and international buyers. So, what makes Wales stand out from the rest? For a start, our expansive coastline and green, green grass helps make Welsh food and drink special. Add to this a less intensive, pastoral and more sustainable approach to how we produce our food and drink. These unique features, coupled with tradition meeting innovation with world-leading brands, artisan producers and food and drink entrepreneurs bring out the very best of Welsh flavours.

Lesley Griffiths MS, Minister for Rural Affairs, North Wales, and Trefnydd

Gone are the days of restricted menus and limited opening hours: Welsh food and drink has never been so diverse – whether sweet or savoury, meat or vegetarian. Whether dining in a world-class restaurant or grabbing a bite in a friendly cafe or delving through locally sourced treats at our delis and farmers’ markets, Wales is a place to delight the taste buds.

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Eateries, of course, would be nothing without their staff and an important aim of BlasCymru/TasteWales 2023 is to attract inward investment to help Welsh businesses safeguard jobs while at the same time creating new ones, enter new export markets and access new technologies which will help make the industry ‘greener’ in the long term. The fourth edition of this celebrated event – scheduled for the International Convention Centre Wales on October 25-26, 2023 – promises to be the biggest and the best yet as the Welsh food and drink industry continues to punch above its weight alongside more heavyweight competitors on the world stage. The proof of the pudding is demonstrated by the fact BlasCymru/TasteWales 2021 drew 927 delegates and arranged no fewer than 1,695 one-to-one business meetings. Throw into the mix the launch of 244 new and innovative food and drink products and the presence of over 200 trade buyers mingling with 102 Welsh food and drink producers and you clearly have a winning recipe.

has begun… This goes hand-in-hand with the fact Welsh food and drink exports hit a record high of £641m in 2021 with Wales also seeing the largest percentage increase in the value of food and drink exports out of the four UK nations between 2020 and 2021 – a hefty increase of £89 million.

Welsh Government strategy champions sustainability at all levels of the supply chain and implements practical steps towards Wales achieving a net zero future. These include a goal to cut food waste in half by 2025, coupled with a drive to promote more sustainable manufacturing practices.

BlasCymru/TasteWales is for producers, buyers or anyone involved in hospitality, retail or the public sector. This year’s event will feature a range of talks, seminars and tastings while exploring contemporary themes such as how sustainability makes sound business sense.

So, what exactly can you expect over two days at the International Convention Centre Wales?

With the Welsh food and drink sector’s supply chain having reached an impressive turnover of £23 billion in 2021, the Welsh Government says we can all collectively play a part in building upon these significant successes post-Covid. “We know from previous strategies that the food and drink industry has a vital role to play in the Welsh economy,” says Minister for Rural Affairs, North Wales, and Trefnydd, Lesley Griffiths MS, who believes the future points to a world-leading industry with a rising reputation of productivity improvement, fair work, economic scale and better environmental sustainability. Over the past decade sales of Welsh food and drink have grown to exceed £7.5 billion in 2019, but in order to maintain this upward curve the Minister says it is essential that everyone pulls in the same direction, taking any opportunities afforded to champion Welsh food and drink.

*An inspiring seminar line-up of industry speakers and panellists – still in the process of being finalised – with the focus on how to adapt to the many economic challenges facing the industry. Speakers at the 2021 event included Andy Richardson, Chair of the Food and Drink Wales Industry Board, Ian Wright, CEO, Food and Drink Federation and BBC1 Countryfile presenter Adam Henson with subjects ranging from ‘The importance of innovation to the Welsh economy’ to ‘Sustainability and Welshness: A shoppers’ perspective’. *A showcase of the best food and drink produce Wales has to offer, including rising stars in the sector. *Various Exhibition Zone areas – Innovation, Business, Skills, Tourism, Investor, International, Sustainability, Cluster and Advanced Manufacturing – showcasing the latest technology, innovative ideas, training, and support available to the sector in Wales. *One-to-one sessions for buyers to engage with Welsh producers and discover the passion behind their products. These 20-minute pre-booked sessions enable sellers and buyers to learn about each other and then

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decide whether or not to continue the conversation later – perhaps at a Ministerial Gala Dinner on the evening of Tuesday 24th October or a networking reception on Wednesday 25th, also in the evening.

“By attending BlasCymru/TasteWales 2023 we are looking to get new UK distribution and meet new buyers,” says Lori, who has attended two previous events.

Two years ago, this area featured over a hundred companies from the Welsh food and drink sector meeting with UK buyers – and their feedback proved extremely positive.

“We picked up two new UK distributors at BlasCymru/ TasteWales 2021,” she relates. “As a small business, we were delighted to gain £40k per annum of sales from our new customers and new lines.”

Coco Pzazz, based in Llanidloes, Powys, create award-winning, delicious chocolate bars and chocolate buttons with an exciting range of flavours, all beautifully presented in recyclable or compostable packaging.

Summing up her experience of BlasCymru/TasteWales, Lori says: “It is an incredibly well organised event, and a very efficient way to meet the right people in one place. If there is one event to go to in one year, it is BlasCymru/TasteWales.

With a team of ‘Intrepid Chocolatiers’, headed by Lori Whinn, the company glean their inspiration from around the world, sourcing sustainably grown cocoa from West Africa and South America.

“The Welsh Government is investing in this priority sector and is taking it very seriously. There is a real awareness of being part of something that is growing and flourishing – you really get a sense of belonging. We are the envy of the home nations.”

During ten years of trading, Coco Pzazz have already achieved their environmental goals by using sustainably grown chocolate; having a zero to landfill policy; making carbon neutral UK trade deliveries and using environmentally friendly packaging. Having recently outgrown old premises, they registered to attend the upcoming event as they look to grow the business further over the coming years.

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With over thirty years of producing award-winning pure and flavoured spring water drinks at source, Radnor Hills are an innovative, fifth generation familyrun business based in Knighton. While the company’s products are widely distributed throughout the UK and Ireland, they are passionate about protecting the environment.

The company have a dedicated recycling facility on-site with a zero to landfill policy and any waste is returned to source and reused or recycled. The company also support well-being. From supporting their local community to contributing to charitable causes, they are one of the leading UK manufacturers of soft drinks for schools. It’s no surprise then that Radnor Hills have made BlasCymru/TasteWales 2023 one of their top go-to events. “The best show for attendance and quality of leads,” explains marketing manager Chris Butler. “Since our initial visit in 2019, it has been paramount in our development.” With a plethora of awards, a site with a certified environmental management system and a delicious range of soft drinks, Radnor Hills do not tread water. The company have made the most of previous show visits by using the ‘Meet the Buyer’ service, while also keeping an element of flexibility to accommodate buyers that turned up on the day. “However,” reveals Chris, “the biggest opportunities were with Asda and Tesco. “Attending the event and having that initial conversation with Tesco eventually led to us taking a Tesco buyer on a tour of our site. That has allowed us to show Tesco’s local teams how we work, them getting to know us, and ultimately resulting in more sales.”

Based in Cross Hands, Carmarthenshire, Do Goodly Dips make award-winning delicious and nutritious plant-based products that are healthy, gluten and dairy free, with nothing artificial added. Formed in 2021 by Richard Abbey and Scott Davis, the company are also committed to respecting the planet as well as promoting positive mental well-being and donate 10% of their profits to mental health charity Mind. Keen to get the company’s products to a targeted tradeonly audience of national and international buyers and food industry professionals, Do Goodly Dips registered to attend BlasCymru/TasteWales. “It was an amazing opportunity to showcase our full range of products,” says Richard. “We had existing and new products to showcase and were launching our unique, entirely plant- based Nacho Cheeze dip.” Handmade using the best ingredients, the dips have a minimum shelf life of three months, helping to reduce food waste and use 100% recyclable packaging. “We were looking to broaden our customer base, so it was an opportunity to meet key customers as well as developing existing trade opportunities,” adds Richard. “The ‘speed dating’ approach created productive meetings. Unlike traditional trade shows, where

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making meaningful contacts can be like finding a needle in a haystack, the meetings at Blas Cymru were set up allowing for both parties to have really stimulating, fruitful conversations. “From those meetings, we were able to secure several wholesaler customers which means we now have products listed across Wales, as well as being available nationally in farm shops and delis. We were also able to progress our eventual listings with Tesco.” Ffion Davies, of South Caernarfon Creameries – renowned makers of delicious Dragon Cheese – has attended BlasCymru/TasteWales as a supplier three times since the event began and is happy to explain why she keeps coming back. “Each year it just seems to get better and better,” she says. “It is a world-class event, featuring quality buyers and suppliers, which is organised to perfection. I also found it time-efficient, as you get multiple buyers under one roof, and see them all in one day, whereas usually you would have to travel a whole day in order to see just one customer! “As far as a medium-sized business such as South Caernarfon Creameries are concerned, the most significant benefit of attending BlasCymru/TasteWales is seeing multiple buyers in the same place which is obviously time efficient, liaising with current buyers to discuss business plans and gain new listings, and meeting with potential new customers – plus, of course, it affords you the ideal opportunity of networking with other Welsh businesses.”

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Ffion says the spin-offs from attending the 2021 showpiece included opportunities to discuss marketing plans with current customers and launch promotional activity in addition to new products listings gained with retailers and wholesalers. “We also gained one new customer, who we didn’t have a meeting with,” she adds. “That’s just one example of the importance at networking at such an event.” And this overwhelmingly positive feedback is echoed by buyers. A spokesperson for Beer Britannia who work with Sainsburys and other retailers described the 2021 event as ‘absolutely superb’. “Probably the best-organised event I have attended throughout my (very long!) career,” he enthused. “Everything – from the venue, location, pre-event organisation, on-day organisation, welcome, time plan for meeting suppliers – was excellent. We are following up with a number of suppliers and found the whole event very worthwhile.” Nikki Castley, a buyer for The Cress Co, said she was greatly taken by ‘the excellent Welsh hospitality’. “I found (the event) to be both enjoyable and constructive,” she added. “I met with 13 producers and will be following up with several of them.” Steve Jeavons, of Fairway Foodservice who represent a large group of companies across the UK, was similarly impressed. “Both my colleague and I really enjoyed BlasCymru/TasteWales,” he says. “There is one

potential supplier who could be a really good addition to the group as well as few others to follow up with. We are looking forward to the next event already!” And Harry Penwarden, Food Development Manager for the National Trust at Swindon, said initial reservations over the event’s format proved groundless. “I was a bit sceptical of having to arrange 20-minute meetings at first, but, on reflection, I actually found them extremely rewarding,” he reveals. “I have been to a lot of Food Expos over the years with the usual status quo of walking around and viewing products/suppliers at a distance. “I was particularly impressed with the positive feedback from suppliers of the support the Welsh Government have given to young inspiring food businesses to make their vision a reality. The suppliers, product range and organisation of the whole thing was excellent.” There will be some changes to the BlasCymru/ TasteWales format in October 2023 as feedback from businesses and organisers following the 2021 event pointed towards workshops, seminars and talks of a practical nature. “We are working closely with BIC Innovation on the development of a seminar programme which will incorporate a series of mini/micro events to maximise footfall and interest in the Zones and be supported via an active hosting/facilitation approach to ensure visitors can maximise their attendance at the event,”

discloses a Welsh Government spokesperson. Stakeholders believe the event has already cemented its place in the UK culinary calendar in just six short years and that to break the BlasCymru/TasteWales event cycle would run the risk of Wales falling off buyers’ radar and that without the event Wales could be overlooked. The havoc wreaked by coronavirus has cast a very long shadow, not least over the Welsh food and hospitality industry for whom BlasCymru/TasteWales 2023 offers another significant step along the road to recovery. October’s event will not only serve to provide businesses in Wales with a platform to form new business relationships and explore international trade/ export but will also promote Welsh Government policies and support, providing Ministers with a stage to showcase such support. Following a turbulent period which has seen the industry overcome previously unimaginable challenges it also allows Welsh food producers a chance to show the world they have emerged from a perfect storm far stronger – and this food revolution shows every sign of going from strength to strength. For more detail, and if you are interested in participating: if you are a buyer, please contact buyers@tastewales.com; if you are a producer, please contact producer@tastewales.com or register your interest at tastewales.com.

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Summer food festivals Bryn Terfel once observed that singers needed to be fed like racehorses. Judging by the number of Welsh culinary festivals in the pipeline it seems that gourmands from ‘The Land of Song’ have taken the great opera singer’s passionate sentiments straight to their hearts. From Swansea to St Fagans and Conwy to Caerphilly eye-catching events featuring food and drink to suit every palate are in their final planning stages as the Wales food industry continues to enhance its stellar reputation boosted, no doubt, by festivals which act in effect as a shop window. And nowhere is that more true than at Abergavenny, where the town’s popular festival – a key fixture on the Welsh food calendar since 1999 – prepares to welcome a veritable army of foodies. The Welsh Borders show piece – which takes place over the weekend of September 16-17 – celebrates its 25th birthday this year so why not head to ‘The Gateway to Wales’ to join in the celebrations? The previous weekend (September 9-10) sees the Amgueddfa Cymru Food Festival – an annual event which has become a firm favourite in Wales’s foodie calendar. And small wonder as St Fagan’s invariably comes alive with over eighty food, drink and craft stalls nestled among its acclaimed historic buildings.

Other runners and riders are the Lampeter Food Festival (July 29), Narberth Cheese Festival (August 12) and Cardigan River and Food Festival (August 19) – now firmly established as the premier event in West Wales – while the increasing diversity of such attractions is reflected in the Welsh Vegan Festival at Cardiff ’s Tramshed on August 20. Also worthy of mention are Treorchy Food and Drink Festival (August 26), Newtown Food Festival (September 2-3), Aberglasney Food and Music Festival (September 8-9), Conwy Honey Fair (September 13), Mold Food and Drink Festival (September 16-17), Swansea Gin and Rum Festival (September 16), Narberth Food Festival (Sept 23-24), Wrexham Feast (September 23-24), Newport Food Festival (October 14) and Llanelli Food and Drink Festival (October 21).

The Great British Food Festival at Margam Park (September 2-3) offers a variety of attractions including chef demos, a challenge and bake stage, circus skills, an artisan market and abundant street food stalls and bars – all set in 1,000 acres of stunning parkland. Other draws include a children’s fairytale land and adventure playground and free parking for all visitors. September 3-4 also sees a reduced portion of Caerphilly’s Big Cheese Festival. As development works at Caerphilly Castle mean this popular event cannot take place in its usual format, organisers have unveiled plans for the Caerphilly Little Cheese Festival in the town centre comprising local and headline musicians along with numerous food and drink stalls. There will also be music workshops, craft sessions and small funfair rides for children. No preview would be complete without the Llangollen Food Festival which has been a beacon for producers across the North Wales and Border regions for over twenty-five years. The weekend of October 14-15 will again see cheese-makers, pork pie producers, vintners, chocolatiers and many more from all around the world welcomed to an event voted among the Top 10 food festivals in the UK by The Guardian. Another returning favourite is the Big Welsh Bite which is sure to entice large numbers to beautiful Ynysangharad War Memorial Park on August 5-6. This event’s proud boast is that it is not just about food as visitors can also enjoy arena shows, cookery demonstrations by guest chefs and more.

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Destination Aber Amour

Why foodies will fall in love with Aberystwyth My unbounded affection for Aberystwyth isn’t just sentiment: it has come on in leaps and bounds since my ‘Dry on Sunday’ student days. One hospitality institution remains from those distant days, the Cabin Coffee Shop on Pier. The enormous black and white photographs of Hollywood stars are gone but the reputation for great coffee remains. The Cabin serves Black Mountain Coffee, one of Wales’ best brews: whilst waiting for my friend to arrive, I ordered half a kilo of their Rwandan beans online: the sharply fruity flavours make it ideal for those of us who like our coffee to come from high ground.

Medina

Thus fortified, we wandered up into the heart of the town, where the square is dominated by the culinary of Aberystwyth, SY23. In a location so favoured for its fresh produce, it is delightful to see Nathan Davies showcasing local fish and lamb in his superb tasting menu, cooked over an open fire. Nathan, a former winner of the BBC’s Great British Menu competition is the former Head Chef at Ynyshir, and like his mentor Gareth Ward, he is both passionate and meticulous about his ingredients. Welsh fish benefits from factors like an abundance of nutrients and excellent water quality and SY23 is ideally placed to serve the best of the best, with local skippers phoning Nathan to tell them what they are landing. Nathan is also an acclaimed forager, so guests can expect, for example, to encounter the cleansing sharpness of wood sorrel, or ‘sour one of the woods,’ as we say in Welsh. Of course, SY23 draws its customers from throughout Britain, drawn by Nathan’s reputation: booking should be done

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months ahead but there are occasional ‘no-shows’ so it is worth asking. When an establishment has netted so many awards, including a Michelin star and the award for best opening, you do need to plan and there is the opportunity to savour the flavours until late. If you are disappointed, Y Sgwar is the all-weather open air venue in front of SY23, providing tapas and other small plates with an oriental feel at breakfast and lunchtime. Nathan Davies gets his lamb from Rob Rattray’s butcher’s shop. Rob’s been in the business since 1991, and as well as raising his own superb Ystwyth Valley lamb, he has established an unrivalled knowledge of the local livestock scene, allowing him to select only the carcasses which will meet his exacting standards. He is a champion of the eating quality of the traditional Pure Welsh Pig with its marbling rendering every cut luscious: no wonder his sausages and faggots are so celebrated. When arranging reunion gatherings of former student friends, it is assumed that the Levantine vibe of Medina is our lunchtime choice. The salads, with their glorious variety of grains, and the kebabs have a well-deserved reputation with vegetarian options like roasted halloumi or harissa spiced cauliflower tempting even the most fervent carnivore to go meat free. Most convivial of all of Medina’s dishes are the dips, available individually or on platters but how to decide? I am a

Dining fierce partisan of the whipped feta but voices are always also raised for the skorldalia or the beetroot hummus; the best tactic is to go in a gang and order two platters between you. And the Turkish Delight balances the intense sweetness with an almost wistful fragrance, leaving one nostalgic for treats of childhood.

blackcurrant and liquorice and the flavours were equally striking but I finally opted for the punchy Ginger. Their vegan options are made with oat milk and work well: careful refining of the recipe has achieved a creamy indulgence which makes it hard to believe it is dairy free.

Jonah’s Fish Kitchen provides deceptively simple, wellcooked quality at a very reasonable price. My scallops were perfectly cooked with a smoky note to their briny elegance, served on a pea puree. There’s a tide of pea puree about at the moment: I have been unlucky enough to experience dishes when the puree was just there for the colour, a garish goo which reminds me of Kermit’s song ‘It’s not easy being green,’ but at Jonah’s, the lightly seasoned bed on which my scallops rested had summer garden freshness. My companion’s Dressed Crab was simply presented and good: a stolen forkful took me back to Bardsey. There are only a handful of tables but if you don’t get in, Jonah’s Fish Market over the road gives plenty of choice for cooking at home.

Ultracomida is the celebrated deli which brings Spain to the Cambrian coast. Their indoor restaurant has been transformed into a vinoteca but they still serve food at the bar. Their wine warehouse stocks ambient goods like their wide range of olives, but the shop also has charcuterie and a strong cheese selection. And as for the nougat...

Pwdin’s variety of sweet treats allow you to either sample on the premises, take a box home, or, of course, both: they also stock a carefully curated range of Welsh products. Check their social media for their Doughnut Days but their signature products are their brownies, available in a wide variety of guises. The Ferrero Rocher Brownie Bomb came highly recommended and did not disappoint, Ambassador. No trip to the seaside is complete without ice-cream: the Aberdyfi Ice Cream Shop offers you the choice of sitting in in their joyously pink interior or wandering along the Prom as you enjoy one of their thirty plus flavours. My companion and I were both drawn to the vivid ‘Carry on Screaming’ appearance of the

Ultracomida

On a much smaller scale but also providing ingredients for lovers of Mediterranean food, Agnelli’s sells good quality Italian ingredients. The fragrant lemon pasta makes an ideal simple supper if you stir through a tin of anchovies and the scamorza gave a tangy lift to a simple pizza: a smear of tomato puree and a few leaves of torn basil are all you need to add to the smoky depth of the cheese. On the way home, milk from Jenkins Dairy is available at their vending machine: its fresh taste is best enjoyed simply, turning mundane cereal into a special breakfast. I’d never seen an egg vending machine before, but Edkins Fresh eggs are Jenkins’ new neighbours and very convenient. It’s great to see the transformation of Aberystwyth from the beerless and cheerless formica tabletops of my student days to a town where good local food is celebrated and a welcome given to a world of flavours. Next time, I’m having the ‘Carry on Screaming’ ice cream....

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Caroline Sarll Ain’t no substitute When I finally pop my pleather clogs, I’m sure my devoted daughters will capture me variously in their punctuation-perfect eulogy: lifelong vegetarian, defo, followed closely by perfectionist, adrenaline-pumped powerhouse and, super omnia, incorrigible pedant and logophile. More of logs later. Not gonna lie, my picky personality is causing me sleepless nights as I star jump towards the pensioner Rubicon. Cue micro-rave about one of my top beefs: culinary skeuomorphism, aka meat ‘n fish-free products mimicking their fleshy originals. I just can’t stomach all these veggie/vegan neologisms which are mushrooming into plant-based products faster than a bout of rampant foot rot. Tofurky. Sham. Benevolent Bacon. They’re all making my beetroot-infused blood boil. Why do manufacturers, chefs and advertisers all think that we herbivores want to buy and eat foodstuffs which are reminiscent - nominally and in appearance - of the very things we despise? I wrote a ranty letter to Quorn when they added “chicken-style” to their totally veggie pieces. Guess what? They removed it - chapeau! Other areas of life are now so inflexibly stamped by stay-in-lane, proscriptive wokery, I am genuinely puzzled by this gastro-hybridism. Really. A spotty appaloosa horse may resemble a Dalmatian, but it still ain’t no dog! Boris and Trump share many similarities, but I’ve never seen either called Doris Johnrump or Bonald Trumson. This is such lazy, carnivore-led appropriation, when there are so many evocative flesh-adverse descriptions in our word-wealthy English language. Stop settling, fellow veggies. And let’s stop the cringey Irritable Vowel Syndrome as in sausg and chick’n. Who decided that a vowel represents meat? Carol Vorderman? Victoria Coren Mitchell? Baffling. Seriously. The veggie burger is in pastiche pole position. A burger is unequivocally linked to meat, whether you embrace its German, American or Roman origins. All the early recipes consist of minced or chopped beef, mixed with bread and seasoning. I clearly don’t eat beef, so why would I want to consume anything associated with it, even linguistically, be it a bean, beet or butternut squash variety? Ditto the rissole moniker. Etymologically, this stems from the Latin russus,

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meaning red. And we’re not talking tomatoes here. More like dripping-from-Dracula deep-crimson gore. Ach-y-blood-y-fi! Why can’t we just call them veggie rounds? Wheels? Beany buttons, even? The veggie sausage soubriquet galls me equally. Sausage, from the Old North French saussiche and the earlier Latin salsus, takes us back to its salty origins, when our fridge-free forefathers tipped sacks of salt over raw meats and fish as a stem-the-pong preservative. So, unmistakably fleshy again. Why can’t we have a veggie log? A tofu thumb? Or even a vegetaBOLE (as in tree trunk) for all cylindrical products? I’m pathetically pleased with that. Please, no more nods-to-cod or redolent-of-rump dishes. I neither want seaweed-tasting vish nor fakon rashers, thank you very much. And don’t even start me on The Vegetarian Butcher, an incongruity so inflammatory, it ignites my tofu-coated tongue every time I see the logo. Vegans are as guilty of this dupe when it comes to their dairy-free naming. I’ll admit to loving shamembert, but the trouble with these port-manteau newbies is that they quickly end up in joke territory a la “Which cheese do you use if you need to hide a horse?..... Mascarpone!” There’s cascheese and nutchi and all sorts of change-one-letter variations, such as cheeze and cheaze, all aiming to casefy the mammal-sparing creations. I’ve also warmed to sheese for a faux feta, though I keep hearing Charles Aznavour’s paean to womanhood, his final crooning morphing annoyingly into “Sheeee-ee-eese. Oh, sheeeeeeeeeeese”. Talking of sheep, we Welsh have also jumped on the parody bandwagon. Cig ffug is a firm favourite for all fake meats and hypocritically, that gets my blessing. I love a rhyme, me. I’ll reluctantly condone the Welsh black bean burger, byrgyr ffa du, as the last two words are so exquisitely suggestive of the food’s effects. As well as llysieuwr, there’s the faaablas cigwrthodwr for a vegetarian, which translates as a “renouncer/repeller of meat”. Well done, Welsh, for embracing such moral specificity. But thumbs down, I’m afraid, for peli cig fegan. Vegan meatballs? I ask you. As ludicrous as those ubiquitous meat-free meatballs. There’ll be labels shouting alcohol-free alcohol next. Egads and faux vishes. It is time, surely, to stop vincing our words.

Spread of Heaven!

s, l, Morrison , Tesco, Lid A D S A t a Available s in Wales rose store M&S + Wait

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Climbing the ladder How education can help you make rapid progress in a hospitality career The first rung of the Hospitality ladder is, for most people, a practical job in the kitchen or front of house, waiting, washing-up or cooking. And many build themselves up from here, one step at a time, absorbing skills and information from people around them – learning on the job.

Kevin Blanco Ledesma, chef and student at UWTSD

That’s a wonderful part of the Hospitality Industry, there’s no doubt about it. But often, staff are so keen to gain practical skills that they end up missing out on the contemporary theory and underpinning reasoning that supports their future career growth. This is where education, delivered in a particular, blended way, can be the perfect next step for those already within the Hospitality Industry wanting to progress.

Kevin (right) with world champion chef Ali Halbert (left)

With Dr Jayne Griffith-Parry of UWTSD

Educational programmes on offer at University of Wales Trinity Saint David (UWTSD) provide the unique blend of practical and classroom-based learning needed to set its students apart from the rest. The University works with employers and prospective students to tailor courses to an individual’s current role and needs. This allows staff already employed within the sector to gain a Higher Education qualification alongside their job, preparing them for that allimportant next step on the ladder. Kevin Blanco Ledesma has worked in restaurants for years, but now studies International Gastronomy Management at UWTSD. He says: “From age 19, I worked in restaurants in Fuerteventura, but after 5 years, I came to the UK in search of better opportunities. “Once I settled, I found a Spanish restaurant and became Head Chef. But when I heard about the course, it felt like a perfect opportunity to further my education and career.”

“The course has made me think about things I wouldn’t really have considered before, like the importance of good marketing and the extra responsibilities of a manager, through to accounting, organisation and the effective division of labour.” “I’m far more equipped now to take on a position of greater responsibility, or start my own business,” he adds. Kevin has benefitted from the array of opportunities and doors opened through the University network, such as competitions, conferences and trips. UWTSD proudly works with professional hospitality experts to give its students placement and stage opportunities within high-profile restaurants across Wales and the UK. These have included Beach House Oxwich, Ynyshir, City Social London, Grove of Narberth and Cafe Spice Namaste, to name a few. The programmes provide an academic underpinning to skills developed within the professional environment, allowing students to consider: “Why do we do what we do?”. They develop inquisitive and analytical mindsets and adopt a problem-solving approach to support the business they work within. For employers, it can be a rewarding and efficient way to provide team members with professional growth, and expose them to great learning opportunities alongside their roles. The courses are supported by industry-leading figures such as Gareth Ward, who says they are an “important way to get your foot in the door… It’s all about learning all aspects of the industry and getting to know people, so that when it comes to moving on, you already have a network”.

Cooking up a storm at the YCYW Wales finals

More information on the full range of courses including BA International Gastronomy Management and BA Hospitality and Hotel Management can be found at www.uwtsd.ac.uk.

Talking to Hywel Griffith in the Young Chef Young Waiter (YCYW) competition kitchen

Kevin’s motivation to study was to understand the whole package. “When you are passionate about cheffing, you realise that you don’t just want the food to be good, you want each and every element that makes up the restaurant to be perfect. From the service to the linens and the glassware – all the little details – and the best way to achieve this is by studying and learning.” “I have always worked as a chef, but since studying at UWTSD and gaining broader experience, I have been more interested in other aspects of hospitality. Now I’ve worked in all positions, I have more empathy and a deeper understanding of the necessity of each role to run a smooth service. You have to appreciate how hard the rest of your team works too!”

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News

Hold the front page Castell Howell wins children’s food project award

Smoking hot courses on preserving and cooking with fire

Independent food wholesaler Castell Howell Foods (CFH) has been recognised for its significant contribution to a local food project at the Children’s Food Awards. CFH worked with Bishopston Comprehensive School and local Gower farms to put local vegetables on the lunch table, in a project headed up by 4theRegion, a membership alliance which works to bring positive change in the area.

Looking to delve into the ancient arts of preserving, smoking, curing or cooking with fire? Then why not spend a day at the Welsh Homestead in the beautiful Cambrian Mountains and sign up for one of three specialist courses: Smoking and Curing; The Magic of Preserving; or Seasonal BBQ and Fire Cooking.

Secondary school pupils also learnt about local food production, sustainability, cooking, food marketing, and agriculture; and CFH supplied the vegetables grown by the farmers and delivered them to the school for the children. One popular pudding option was Beetroot Brownies! Ed Morgan, CFH group corporate social responsibility manager, said: “We are so proud to have been involved in this initiative. We hope this collaboration between supply chain partners can develop and flourish, and continue, not only to improve children’s food, but to nurture and inspire the next generation of horticulturalists.” To find our more go to www.castellhowellfoods.co.uk and www.4theregion.org.uk

Savoury biscuit producer strikes gold with local oil Two Welsh artisan food businesses have been working together with the health of their customers in mind. Cradoc’s Savoury Biscuits, which is based in Brecon, is using rapeseed oil produced by Pembrokeshire Gold in Manorbier to lower the fat content of its scrumptious crackers. Cradoc’s is a family run bakery which was founded 12 years ago and has grown from a kitchen tabletop enterprise to an award-winning company which exports worldwide. Allie Thomas, who founded the bakery with her daughter Ella, was looking for an alternative to butter that would align with Welsh Government’s health strategies. That opportunity came when she met Welsh rapeseed grower Harry Thomas. Harry began making and selling his cold pressed oil 18 months ago and said, “Meeting Allie and the Cradoc’s team has been great, and it’s wonderful to be able to supply our oil as a raw material to another Welsh business.” Find their innovative artisan ranges at cradocssavourybiscuits.co.uk/store/ and www. pembrokeshiregold.co.uk/shop/

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All courses are held in the smallholding’s outdoor kitchen area and include a simple lunch featuring local ingredients, plus handouts to take home. Courses run from 10am to 3.30pm - fire permitting - and accommodation can be provided on site in a delightful, converted stone barn, or elsewhere in the beautiful local area. Relax and experience the wonders of the smell and taste of home grown and preserved fire cooked foods. And if you can’t make a course, you can order the smokery’s fine range of tasty goodies from its online store. Just saying, its smoked bacon and fiery rubs are well worth a try! To find out more go to www.welshsmokery.co.uk

It’s showtime for the Royal Welsh 2023 The pinnacle event in the Welsh agricultural calendar, the Royal Welsh Show, takes place in Builth Wells from July 24th-27th. Now in its 102nd year, the show attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors who come together and celebrate the very best of Welsh and British agriculture. It’s an action-packed four-day event of exciting competitions, livestock, forestry, crafts, countryside sports, shopping, food and drink, a 12hour programme of non-stop entertainment and much more. This year will see the launch of a brand-new Welsh Food Village, featuring an array of exciting food and drink, along with a live music stage. To tickle the taste buds even further, a brand-new pop-up Pori/ Graze restaurant will be on the edge of the main ring alongside the Members Centre. Also new is an Egg Section, plus the exceptional equestrian artist Santí Serra, acclaimed as the ‘Spanish Horse Whisperer’, who will perform his mesmerising choreography with his Arabic horses every day. To buy your early bird tickets visit www.rwas.wales or www.cafc.cymru

News

Reduced sugar biscuit study creates recipe for success Welsh research to help reduce the amount of sugar in biscuits will be made available for free to bakery businesses across Wales. Llanrwst-based Shepherd’s Biscuits has been at the centre of a Welsh Government-backed project to see how the sugar content in biscuits could be reduced without affecting the taste. Prompted by the need to improve consumer health and the possibility of a sugar tax, the business began its research in collaboration with experts at Grŵp Llandrillo Menai’s Food Technology Centre in Llangefni. James Shepherd explained, “The project looked to explore and develop new methods for producing lower-sugar, lower-carbohydrate biscuits which taste every bit as good as their traditional high-sugar, highcarbohydrate equivalents.” They found that reducing carbohydrate content often did impact quality, so attention was focused e on cutting the sugar content. The result was the development of a sugar replacement made from five ingredients – sugar, soluble fibre, maltodextrin, fructose and a natural sweetener. Julia Skinner from Grŵp Llandrillo Menai added: “It was surprising how much sugar could be removed just by adjusting the proportions of ingredients within the recipe.” The work has the potential to be applied to other baked goods, including cakes, and James would like to see the project’s findings taken on board by the bakery sector. James said, “We’ve calculated that swapping sugar for the new sweetening blend adds about five per cent to the cost of production. So we need a commercial ingredient manufacturer to take this on and create blends that bakeries can buy in and reduce the sugar content in their goods too.” Shepherd’s Biscuits is renowned for reviving Britain’s oldest biscuit – the distinctive scallop shell-shaped Aberffraw biscuit, which dates back 800 years. And while the Aberffraw biscuit recipe will remain the same, there are plans to produce other biscuits using the new knowledge gained from this project. So watch this space! To find out more go to www.thebiscuitproject.com and www.shepherdsbiscuits.com/shepherds-biscuitsstore/

Castle Dairies’ butters win gold for Caerphilly Family-owned business Castle Dairies from Caerphilly has won two gold medals for its butter at the International Cheese and Dairy Awards 2023. Both

the company’s salted and unsalted Welsh block butters came away with top accolades. The company also received the joint highest number of Great Taste awards in the UK butter category last year and this year was shortlisted as a Food Producer of the Year finalist at the Wales Food & Drink Awards. At a time of inflationary pressure, it’s great to see Castle Dairies being stocked in new outlets too. Back in April, it expanded its distribution across the border at Lidl, with around 80 stores across the Northwest and North Wales stocking its Welsh Spreadable. And then in July, the same product taken on by Asda across Wales. To find out more about the company’s Welsh butter go to www.castledairies.co.uk/our-retail-products/

Celebrating 25 years of the Abergavenny Food Festival Take time out with family and friends this September 16th-17th and join the many chefs, cooks, growers, producers, writers and campaigners heading to the Welsh Borders for the Festival’s 25th birthday. All tickets must be bought in advance, with ‘Day Stroller’ tickets costing £13.50 for adults and free entry for under 16s, if accompanied by an adult. Tickets give access to more than 160 exhibitors across six venues, and more than 20 guest events which are scheduled each day. Check out the irrepressible Hangfire Girls (Sam & Shauna); a debate on food shortages chaired by Sheila Dillon of The Food Programme; Andi Oliver of the Great British Menu on her Caribbean food heritage and demonstrations from James Sommerin of the Michelin-starred Home, in Penarth, with his daughter Georgia. Intimate ‘Meet the Author’ events will also be held in Abergavenny’s stunning library, with tickets strictly limited in number, at only £5 a head. The Angel Hotel’s beautiful ballroom will host the Drinks Theatre masterclasses, and the Abergavenny Baker has some small-group events too. To make the most of you visit, book your ‘must sees’ now at www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com.

Dragon Cheese roars on screen and across the Pond A Pwllheli-based farmer owned cooperative has won the prestigious ‘Food Producer of the Year’ award at the 2023 Wales Food and Drink Awards. South Caernarfon Creameries (SCC), which produces the award-winning Dragon brand of cheese, has been producing cheese for more than 60 years, and was recognised for consistently making a real impact in the food sector. SCC Managing Director, Alan Wyn Jones said, “Since we launched our new and improved Dragon website last November, we have seen the

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News growth in sales soar, but equally, winning this award fills us with pride.” The award follows the recent launch of a TV advert for Dragon Cheddar, which, with the tagline ‘Every day, every way’, highlights five delicious recipes to get you from Monday to Friday. SCC has also this year broken into the lucrative US dairy market, receiving its first order at an international trade show in California. SCC Marketing Manager Kirstie Jones says: “This export deal is a great achievement for the company. We hope to build further on this new relationship across the Pond.” To order some Dragon deliciousness direct, go to dragonwales.co.uk

Food, music and fun at the St Fagan’s annual festival A firm favourite in Wales’ foodie calendar, the Amgueddfa Cymru Food Festival is set to return to St Fagan’s National Museum of History, near Cardiff, on September 9th-10th, with an exciting line-up of more than 80 food, drink and craft stalls nestled among the historic buildings, plus live music across two stages. From making butter to discovering what shopping was like in the 1920s, visitors can enjoy taking a step back in time at some of the museum’s most iconic buildings. Family friendly activities, from cookery demos in the historic houses to circus skills, with plenty to keep little ones entertained. Thankfully, entry to St Fagan’s is free, with parking costing £6 a car. Food stalls will range from Austringer Cider to Rickshaw Rodeo, and The Real Ting, and the museum will stay open until 6pm on both days. The event is run by the National Museum Wales Amgueddfa Cymru, a charity and a family of seven national museums and a collections centre, which are located across Wales. To find out more about the event and the collections, go to www.museum.wales

Authentic Indian cuisine at the foot of Snowdonia If you find yourself in the southern part of Snowdonia, and in the mood for some authentic Indian food, Indiana Cuisine is a new Indian restaurant which is well worth seeking out. Hidden away on the beautiful Macdonald Plas Talgarth Resort in Pennal, between Aberdovey and Machynlleth, its menu features traditional home cooked dishes using the freshest ingredients. Accomplished chef and front of house team Noorie and Raj bring more than 15 years’ experience to this new venue, which offers diners a range of culinary experiences and is open to both resort guests and the wider public. The stunning Ty Blasu pub, boasts incredible views,

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and serves both British and Indian cuisine and serves meals in either the family-friendly pub, or the adjacent dining area. But to experience Noorie’s signature dishes, make sure to book in at the Indiana Cuisine restaurant, which is upstairs, and opens on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings only. To make a reservation, call (01341) 401205, or visit www.indianacuisine.co.uk

Red Meat takes centre stage at the Royal Welsh Look out for award-winning chefs and athletes lining up to promote the qualities of Welsh red meat at the Royal Welsh Show this month at Builth Wells. On Monday, July 24th, the new Welsh Lamb campaign will be launched with the help of Nathan Davies, chef-owner of the Michelin starred restaurant SY23, in Aberystwyth on the Hybu Cig Cymru (HCC) Meat Promotion Wales stand, and also spotlighted will be the producers who’ll explain why producing Welsh Lamb is a labour of love. Nathan will no doubt impress the crowds with five Welsh Lamb dishes, including the slow cooked neck of lamb with local grains and shallot dish which he cooked on the BBC’s Great British Menu. On Tuesday, chef Leyli Homayoonfar from Mexican street food restaurant Bab Haus in Newport will be on cooking live and on Wednesday, champion athletes Adele Nicholl and Aled Sion Davies will compete in a lively cook-off to showcase the nutritional benefits of red meat. Also on the stand will be the Welsh Culinary Association’s Junior National Chef of the Year, Stephanie Belcher from Coast restaurant in Saundersfoot, and Matthew Smith, National Chef of Wales winner; the final round of the ‘Best Sausage Forward’ competition, plus three pork producers battling it out with their best pork products. Check out the HCC stand (M744), near the Food Hall and Shearing Centre, for a full daily schedule.

‘In The Welsh Wind’ launches second independently bottled whisky Award-winning Welsh distillery ‘In the Welsh Wind’, from near Cardigan, has released its second limited-edition, independently bottled whisky from Swedish distillery Mackmyra. Gruvguld is a nonage-statemented single malt whisky, which has been matured in small casks in Mackmyra’s Bodas mine. Only 300 bottles remain in stock at the time of going to press! The distillery’s first independently bottled whisky was an 8-year-old single malt finished in a Banyuls red wine cask which won best whisky in the Great British Food Awards and is now sold out!

News The marrying of spirits with unusual casks is nothing new to ‘In the Welsh Wind’, as it did it with its awardwinning Palo Cortado cask-aged gin and the distillery is also championing small casks for its own Welsh origin single malt whisky. Ellen Wakelam, co-founder of ‘In the Welsh Wind’, said: “While our first independently bottled Mackmyra gave us the opportunity to experiment, finishing what was already a great whisky in a Banyuls cask of our choosing to add flavour and complexity, our second indie bottling demonstrates the versatility of small casks and the depth of flavour that can be achieved through the use of carefully selected small casks.” Gruvguld Mackmyra whisky (46% vol) is priced at £65 and is available at www.inthewelshwind.co.uk

Welsh Wine Week success – plus OBE for vineyard owner The growing reputation of Welsh wines was celebrated this year at Welsh Wine Week. The June event gave wine lovers, trade buyers and influencers the chance to discover many of Wales’ picturesque vineyards and to sample its award-winning wines. Among those involved were Robb Merchant, owner of White Castle Vineyard, who has since received an OBE from the King for his services to the Welsh wine industry. Speaking about the sector he said: “The Welsh wine industry has been growing over the past 10 years. It is becoming an integral part of the Welsh economy. Those vineyards that are open to visitors are creating some great opportunities for tourists to visit and tour, learn about the growing process and then taste and learn about the wines they produce. There is a real demand for Welsh wine across the UK.” With almost 40 vineyards now operating across the country, there are over 20 different grape varieties grown, producing exceptional red, white, rosé and sparkling wines. Experts predict that wine sales and revenue from cellar door activities will bring in a revenue of £14.4 million by 2035. Key to the strategy is the industry’s determination to embed an ethos of fair work and sustainability at its core. As an example, Gwinllan Conwy Vineyard now uses sheep fleeces between its vines after they found it deterred snails and slugs, and improved soil quality, moisture retention and fruit quality. A local sheep farmer who was using his fleeces around his vegetables suggested the idea.

Devil’s Bridge Rum Unleashes a Perfect Storm In a momentous stride forward, Devil’s Bridge Rum, renowned for its exceptional handcrafted rums, is proud to unveil its first-ever ready-to-drink cocktail: Dark & Stormy. This tantalizing concoction combines

the captivating flavours of Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum, the zingy freshness of ginger ale, and the citrusy notes of lime. With the launch of Dark & Stormy, Devil’s Bridge Rum invites rum enthusiasts and cocktail lovers to embark on an extraordinary taste adventure. The convenience of the RTD format ensures that you can savour the captivating flavours of Devil’s Bridge Spiced Rum anywhere, anytime. Whether you’re lounging on a sunny beach, enjoying a picnic in the park, or hosting a gathering with friends, Dark & Stormy is the perfect companion. Its refreshing and balanced profile, coupled with the convenience of a canned cocktail, brings together the elements of convenience, quality, and flavour. Experience the allure of Devil’s Bridge Rum in a whole new way with the launch of Dark & Stormy – a readyto-drink cocktail that captures the spirit of adventure, elegance, and exceptional taste. Get ready to be swept away by the perfect storm in every sip. Coming to a retailer near you soon.

Radnor’s new multi-million pound production facilities Following a multi-million-pound site investment, Wales’ leading soft drinks company Radnor Hills has opened expanded facilities in Powys, mid Wales. The investment has been used to build new production facilities and a quality assurance laboratory as well as to create a new £2.5 million state-of-the-art office complex for staff and a conference facility from an old agricultural building on the site. At the official opening in April, Lesley Griffiths, Minister for Rural Affairs, met with Radnor MD William Watkins and was given a tour of the new facilities as well as product samples to try, including Radnor’s award-winning Heartsease Farm brand. Radnor founder and Managing Director William Watkins said: “These are exciting times for Radnor Hills. We are committed to ongoing investment to ensure that our facilities are world class.“ “With the opening of our new office complex, we are also investing in our brilliant team of people. We are also committed to environmental sustainability. Radnor is a zero to landfill site and we’ve recently received planning permission for a £1.8 million solar farm to power our manufacturing site. This will support our pledge to become more sustainable and to protect the environment around us.” Independent and family owned, Radnor Hills, which was established in 1990 and produces over 400 million drinks every year. Its brands include Radnor Water, Radnor Splash, Heartsease Farm, Radnor Fizz and Radnor Fruits. www.radnorhills.co.uk

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Restaurant Reviews

Hebron Vineyard, Whitland Tucked away in a gentle valley in the shadow of the Preseli Hills is a little gem that whisks you away to a gentler, idyllic world. Hebron Vineyard. Owners Paul and Gemma aren’t your typical vignerons. They’re not well-heeled. They’re not posh. They’re everyday folk, with a delightfully warm bonhomie. Having quit the rat-race to run a winery in Spain, they moved to Wales to be closer to family and decided to use their experience to do something similar here. Their principles mean it’s not a big commercial operation – they just do it for the love of it. And those principles are adamantly in favour of natural organic wine. Paul explains that winemaking is the worst offender of all for chemical intervention – scarily so. But at Hebron, nothing is brought in. No fertiliser, insecticide, additives or interference. The lack of intervention may mean yields are less and alcohol content is lower, but the wine is made as it was in days

of old, much better for you and hang-over free. And it’s infinitely better for the environment. With Gemma’s hospitality background and repertoire of tapas dishes, the ingredients of which are all from their garden, local growers or small producers, they run tastings to illustrate how wine and food can have a dramatic effect on how each taste. Our venue is a charming barn, where Paul and Jemma take turns to talk us through the wine and tapas. First, we try their white on its own. Called Solaris Amphora, after the clay vessels used to store wine in ancient times and that Hebron now use, and derived from the Solaris grape, from Germany where the climate is similar to ours, it’s delightful, with a floral nose, with light zesty citrus notes. Our first tapas, subtly flavoured courgette ribbons in a pistachio pesto subtly boosted its core characteristics. We then experimented with four different dips for the courgette that had a drastic impact. Lime – more biscuit. Kewpie mayo – softer. Jalapeno – acid. Laverbread – umami. The next dish, intensely flavoured Heritage Tomatoes in Sherry Vinaigrette drew out more of the wine’s zestiness. But we’re then dumbfounded by the contrasting effect of the bolder Smoked Salmon, pickle and fennel cream cheese – the wine took on a honey sweetness that wasn’t there before, whilst the zest faded considerably. Next up was a cooled variant of their red, a Rondo 2021. It’s a light-bodied but earthy, low tannin, red that lets its fruity nature shine. Being low in tannin and cold there’s more emphasis on berry fruit, which makes for a refreshing red for warmer days. The charred padrón peppers and whipped feta added bite and punch. Finally, we moved on to the Rondo 2021 at ambient temperature. Fuller, plummier, with more of a bouquet it took on a different character. With the Slow cooked lamb shoulder, laverbread and salsa verde, the Rondo instantly made the lamb more gamey whilst the laverbread added a savouriness to the wine. Our final tapas, local free-range chicken in an Asian glaze, radish and spring onions, proves that red wine loves Asian food – adding acid, walnuts and even more umami. The whole experience was revelatory, and I totally recommend it to wine aficionados and novices alike – you’ll leave saying ‘yep, I get it now’ and will look at wine and food in a totally different way from that day on. And you’ll also have had a cracking day out to boot. Hebron Vineyard Hebron, Whitland SA34 0XS 07923 432391 www.hebronvineyard.com

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Anglesey Cold Brew

COFFEE LIQUEUR Both our original and decaf have 75% less sugar than most liqueurs, and numerous prestigious awards under their belts. These truly are something special.

Buy your Day Stroller Ticket online now Adults: £13.50 (free entry for under 16s) All tickets to be sold in advance

Great on their own, over ice, in cocktails, in desserts or in our ready to drink bottled cocktails.

16 & 17 SEPTEMBER CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF FUN & FEASTING For all our products, recipe ideas and more, check out:

www.derwcoffee.co.uk

www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com

Taste.Blas - 90x128.indd 1

28/06/2023 16:12

MORGANS BREW TEA

We are specialist suppliers of loose leaf teas and infusions from established plantations. Our blends are sourced from a collection of old and new recipes. We sell our own brand of 46 loose leaf teas and accessories via online webshop. We love to share our passion for tea in all its myriad forms and delight in inspiring our customers to try new flavours and recipes.We want to encourage our customers to think differently about they use tea and infusions for drinking and culinary use. Our aromatic and flavour-rich blends are endlessly versatile; whether it be a satisfying cuppa, a delicate herbal pick-me-up, as an aromatic culinary ingredient or as a twist to an elegant cocktail. From black teas to caffeine-free, from herbal to fruit infusion – all our teas are blended for your enjoyment. You can drink our teas and infusions in the morning, mid-day, afternoon, evening - and as a nightcap. T: 01938 552 303 | M: 07713 440 558 | E: hello@morgansbrewtea.co.uk | www.morgansbrewtea.co.uk Oldford House, Berriew Road, Welshpool, Powys SY21 7SS

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Recipes

Welsh lamb moussaka

Prep time 35 mins Cook time 2 hrs 15 mins Serves 4

• • •

Ingredients

Method

• •

Place the sliced aubergines on kitchen paper, sprinkle with salt, and leave for 30 minutes to draw out the moisture, then rinse in a colander and pat dry with kitchen paper, then sprinkle with a little flour.

Place a little oil in a frying pan and fry the aubergine slices in batches, for a few minutes each side, to colour. Place on kitchen paper.

450g lean PGI Welsh Lamb mince 3 large aubergines, peeled and sliced 1cm thick • 2 large potatoes, peeled and sliced 1cm thick • 2 tbsp olive oil • 2 onions, finely chopped • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 400g tin chopped tomatoes • 2 tbsp tomato purée • ¼ tsp cinnamon • 1 tsp oregano • Salt and pepper • Extra salt for salting the aubergines • 1 tbsp flour for sprinkling the aubergines • 2 bay leaves • Small glass red wine • Breadcrumbs for bottom of casserole dish (optional) For the béchamel sauce: • 100g unsalted butter • 100g plain flour • 900ml whole milk • Pinch of salt and pepper

½ tsp ground nutmeg 100g grated Parmesan cheese 2 egg yolks

Place the potato slices in a pan of boiling water for 5 minutes, drain, and rinse with cold water to prevent further cooking.

Preheat the oven to 180˚C / 160˚C fan / Gas 4.

Make the mince mixture by frying the lamb mince until browned, add the onions and garlic and cook for a few minutes to allow the onions to soften. Add the tomatoes, purée, cinnamon, oregano,

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seasoning, bay leaves and the wine. Bring to the boil, and then simmer for approximately 30 minutes until it reaches a thick consistency. Allow to cool slightly.

Make the béchamel sauce by melting the butter in a saucepan, then add the flour and whisk for 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk until the sauce is nice and smooth. Bring to the boil, and then take off the heat and add the cheese, nutmeg and seasoning. Whisk again until nice and smooth. Allow the sauce to cool for approximately 15 minutes, then whisk in the egg yolks.

Grease a baking dish or roasting tin, and then add a thin layer of breadcrumbs to absorb the liquid from the vegetables. Place the potato slices on the bottom, overlapping them slightly. Then place a layer of the aubergine slices on top, overlapping them. Spoon over the meat mixture, then another layer of the aubergines. To finish, pour over the béchamel sauce.

Place in the oven for approximately 1 hour. It is best to let it stand for 10-15 minutes before serving.

Recipes

Prep time 20 mins Cook time 4 hrs 30 mins Serves 5+

Welsh beef brisket burnt ends Method 1.

Remove the brisket from the fridge 45 minutes before cooking to reach room temperature.

Make the sauce by mixing the cola and BBQ sauce together, add a little of the cooking juices.

Preheat the oven to 150˚C / 130˚C fan / Gas 2.

Mix the spices together for the rub and gently rub into the surface of the brisket.

When the brisket is cooked, remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly, so you can touch it.

Increase the oven temperature to 200˚C / 180˚C fan / Gas 6.

Cut the brisket up into bite size chunks and put back in the roasting tin, then pour over some of the sauce, just enough to coat the meat, and stir well.

Ingredients •

1.5-2kg flat piece of PGI Welsh Beef brisket • 1 onion, roughly sliced For the rub: • 1 tsp salt • 1 tsp coarse ground pepper • 1 tsp garlic powder • 1 tsp paprika • 1 tsp cayenne pepper For the sauce: • Small can of cola • 1 jar or small bottle good quality BBQ sauce. (Alternatively, make your own BBQ sauce)

Place the onion slices in a roasting tin and sit the brisket on top. Add 200ml hot water. Cover very loosely with non-stick baking paper and then seal with foil. Place in the oven for 2 hours. Remove the foil and baking paper and continue cooking for approximately 2 hours. The meat should then be tender but not flaking. If not ready, cover and return to the oven.

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10. Place in the oven for 30 minutes until the meat is crispy. 11. Serve with crunchy slaw and salad.

Recipes

Salt and pepper porc ribs Prep time 30 mins Cook time 2 hrs 30 mins Serves 5+

Ingredients • 10-12 individual porc spare ribs • 1 tsp coarse salt • ½ tsp coarse black pepper • ½ tsp Szechuan peppercorns • 2 tbsp oil • 1 green chilli, finely sliced • 4 spring onions, finely sliced • ½ tsp ginger, finely sliced • 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced • 1 tbsp soy sauce For the marinade: • 1 heaped tbsp cornflour • 1 tbsp water • 1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder • 1 tsp soft brown sugar To serve: • Sweet chilli sauce

• •

Sesame seeds (optional) Lime wedges

Method 1.

Preheat the oven to 180˚C / 160˚C fan / Gas 3.

Cook the ribs by placing them in an oven tray, and add ¼ pt of water. Cover tightly with foil and cook in the oven for 1.5 – 2 hours until the porc is tender. (You can use a slow cooker).

Remove from the tin and allow to cool.

Place the Szechuan peppercorns in a small pan and carefully heat for 1 minute. Allow the peppercorns to cool, and then crush in a grinder.

Mix the peppers together with the salt.

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Make the marinade by mixing the cornflour, water, Chinese five-spice and sugar. Use to coat the ribs and leave in a bowl for 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 210˚C / 190˚C fan / Gas 6.

Place the ribs on a greased baking sheet or on non-stick baking paper, brush with oil and place in the oven for approximately 15-20 minutes, turning occasionally. Cook until crisp.

Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the chilli, spring onion, garlic and ginger and fry for a few minutes, then add the soy sauce and the ribs and turn until the ribs are coated. Sprinkle the peppercorn and salt mixture over the top.

10. Serve immediately.

Recipes

Stairway to Heaven linguine with laverbread butter, lobster, crab, chilli, garlic and parmesan or until the pasta is cooked to your preference.

Ingredients

Method

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Bring a large pan of water to the boil.

While waiting for the pan to boil, gently warm a large frying pan with a drizzle of olive oil and add the onion, chilli, garlic and tomatoes.

Strain the pasta and add to the frying pan, mix in, then add the laverbread butter.

Once the pasta is coated in the mix, serve immediately.

Top with the parsley, dill, lemon zest and juice.

Add a sprinkle of sea salt and white pepper.

200g linguine 150g crab meat (50/50 white/brown) 150g lobster meat, diced 1 tbsp olive oil 1 (50g) tin anchovies 1-2 tbsp laverbread butter 4 cloves garlic 1 red chilli, chopped 3 spring onions, diced thinly ½ tsp Captain Cat’s Mor Seasoning 3 tbsp laverbread Handful cherry tomatoes 100ml Barti Spiced Rum Grated Parmesan Parsley and dill, finely chopped 1 lemon, zest and juice Sea salt and white pepper, to taste

4. 5.

Cook until you have some colour and then add the lobster, crab, anchovies (with oil), laverbread and seasoning. Add a glug of Barti Rum to the mix and cook gently, stirring often. Once the large pan of water is boiling, add the oil, salt and your pasta. Bring to a gentle simmer for around 10 minutes

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A recipe from The Little Laverbread Book, text © Jonathan Williams, food photography © Huw Jones, published by Graffeg 2023. £9.99, available from bookshops or online at graffeg.com

Cavern Aged Welsh Red Stuffed Burgers Ingredients • 750g beef mince • 1 garlic clove, minced • 2 tsp. chilli sauce • 4 strips streaky bacon • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 120g Dragon Cavern Ruby - Slate Aged Red, sliced • 4 brioche rolls • Lettuce, tomato, pineapple slices to garnish

Method 1. In a bowl combine beef mince, garlic, chilli sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste. 2. Over a medium heat, warm a frying pan and fry the bacon until crispy. Remove to a paper towellined plate to drain. 3. Keep the heat on the pan and fry a pinch of the beef in the bacon fat to test seasoning. Adjust seasoning, if needed. 4. Form 8 even thin patties, about 1/2-inch thick and set aside.

5. Place a 30g slice of cheese on 4 of the patties. 6. Top each with another patty and seal the edges. 7. Griddle burgers and pineapple slices over a medium-high heat, flipping once until desired doneness is reached, approximately 4 minutes each side for medium. 8. Serve in brioche rolls with bacon, tomatoes and lettuce. Serves 4 Preparation Time 10 minutes Cooking Time 12 minutes

Dragon Handcrafted is now available the buy in-store and online. www. dragonwales.co.uk

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Recipes

Glamorgan Sausages Wales’s answer to the vegetarian sausage, these are named after Glamorgan cheese which was made from the milk of Glamorgan cows. Though this is no longer made, any good Caerphilly cheese will work well. As for the laverbread seaweed, which is a favourite in south Wales, you can use spinach as an alternative.

•

Makes 12

Method

Ingredients • •

150g fresh breadcrumbs 1 small leek, finely chopped

• • • • • •

2 tablespoons laverbread (or pureed spinach) 75g Caerphilly cheese, grated 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper Pinch dry mustard 2 eggs, beaten 2 tablespoons light cooking oil

Mix together the breadcrumbs, leek, laverbread, cheese, parsley, seasoning and mustard.

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Use the beaten eggs to bind the mixture together.

Divide into 12 portions and form into sausage shapes.

Fry the Glamorgan sausages in the oil until crisp and golden brown on all sides.

A recipe from Celtic Cuisine, text © Gilli Davies, photography © Huw Jones, published by Graffeg 2023. £9.99, available from bookshops or online at graffeg.com

Recipes

Iced honey and orange loaf with blackberries

A delicious dessert which can be prepared ahead and removed from the freezer 30 minutes before serving. The addition of yogurt makes a lighter pudding.

• • • •

Serves 6-8

Method

Ingredients • • • • • •

300 ml of double cream 2 tbsps of honey Vanilla pod seeds Zest of 1 orange and 2 tbsps of juice 200g of Llaeth y Llan natural yogurt with honey 70g of Amaretti biscuits (about 16)- keep 3 Amaretti to garnish

Cocktail of the month

2 large egg whites 250g of blackberries 1 tbsp of caster sugar 2 tbsps of sloe gin (optional)

Line a 1 litre tin or dish with enough clingfilm to completely wrap the pudding

Put the cream, honey, vanilla seeds, the orange zest and juice in a bowl and whisk until firm before folding in the yogurt and biscuit crumbs

Put the egg whites in another dish with a pinch of salt and whisk until firm, then

Before serving transfer to the fridge to slowly defrost and crumble the remaining 3 Amaretti on top.

Put the blackberries and sugar in a saucepan over a moderate heat and carefully stir until it starts to cook but with the fruit still holding its shape. Remove from the heat and add the gin then leave to cool and serve with the loaf.

Recipe from ‘Welsh Food by Season’ by Nerys Howell

Derw Summer Punch This recipe is easy, delicious and refreshing. It combines Derw’s cold brew coffee liqueur with a gin and tonic to make a great summer treat! How to make the DSP:

Ingredients • • • • •

fold the mixture. Pour into the tin and wrap well, then freeze for at least 5 hours or overnight.

50ml Derw Liqueur 25ml quality gin 150ml good tonic water Summer punch flavours: Strawberries, cucumber, mint 3-4 ice cubes

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Method Slice the strawberries and cucumber. Mix up all the ingredients except tonic in a glass (or jug if making for more people). Stir. Add the tonic and stir gently to avoid losing all the fizz. Garnish with more strawberries and mint if you like. Clink your glasses and enjoy!

Apply Now The Surplus With Purpose Cymru Fund is open for applications from all food and drink businesses in Wales We recognise the cost pressures on the food and drink sector, and this fund makes it 100% cost-neutral to donate surplus food to FareShare Cymru. All donations are distributed to our network of charity and community group members. The fund can be used to cover the costs of:

Harvesting and labour Packaging or repackaging Storage or freezing Transportation Offsetting any loss of income from donating surplus food to FareShare Other ways of unlocking surplus food to prevent waste To discuss further, contact us today on 02920 362111 or email swp@fareshare.cymru

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Food and Drink

Food Drink Reviews Real Tidy Like Pasties Ever thought that pasties were the exclusive property of the Cornish? Well think again. The Celtic Pie company, has taken that well-loved bake, added all their existing pie-know-how and a dash of Welsh flair to come up with the delicious (and cheekily named) ‘Real Tidy Like’ pasty range. Alongside their Posh and Baked Pies, these are bakes that could be enjoyed on the go. As an integral part of the Castell Howell family, the company have drawn on 35 years of experience, insisting on high quality ingredients (the PGI Celtic Pride Welsh beef is fully traceable back to the farm). Add in truly Welsh flavours such as leeks and Welsh cheddar and ‘Real Tidy Like’ pasties totally live up to their name. We tried the range. Without exception the pastry is perfect (thick but with a pleasing light, flaky texture) and stuffed full of filling. Seasoning is faultless, allowing quality ingredients to shine. The Celtic Pride beef pasties all have that satisfying, deep, heartiness you want from a good meat pie. The cheese, leek and onion offering is a triumph of creamy savouriness and both the minted lamb and the chicken tikka bakes, add a touch of the exotic. The chicken, leek and ham pasty was extremely popular with our tasters. Its moist chicken and leek are perfectly complemented by the smokiness of the ham. When asked why our youngest taster enjoyed it so much, he commented ‘It’s just nice, in it!’ Our thoughts exactly! www.castellhowellfoods.co.uk

Welsh Homestead Smokery BBQ Rubs Deep in the west of the Cambrian Mountains, comes smokery magic. A family enterprise, Welsh Homestead use a modest smokery to cast a spell on a range of delicious products including bacon, chilli jams, sauces, burgers and seasonings, all either the bounty of their own smallholding or from hand-picked, often local, producers. This time it’s rubs for the BBQ. You simply rub these on to your favourite BBQ creations and whack them on the coals. Named after the elements (roughly) there are four to choose from. Wood/Pren is their take on a classic BBQ mix – a generous smokiness from the paprika, sugar and salt that’s the real thing, not an additive, with some sweetness and a mellow mustard seed kick that builds. Fire/Tân is the not so mellow follow-on – with a generous helping of their smoked chillies, it’s big on heat and smoke, and delicious. Earth/Tir is a gentler, more traditional mix of herbs, Welsh Shitake mushrooms, black garlic and smoked salt – it’s rich and savoury with plenty of sage and garlic supplemented with subtle smoke. And finally, something a bit different. Sea/Môr is a versatile rub that combines

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a blend of herbs and garlic with smoked salt and Laver seaweed from Pembrokeshire. The Laver adds a uniquely different slant that’s perfect for fish, shellfish, chicken and even butter to lash on to potatoes. They’re a great way to lift a BBQ or, alternatively, sprinkle some stardust over a roast, pizza or wedges. Options are endless, and scrumptious. www.welshsmokery.co.uk

Morgan’s Brew Tea Cambrian Mountains Visitor Pack Encircled by three national parks, with dramatic rolling hills and sparkling rivers and lakes, the Cambrian Mountains are a hidden gem awaiting discovery. The magnificent landscape is so steeped in history that it is no wonder it still echoes with Owain Glyndwr’s battles cries. This unspoilt land welcomes visitors; to adventure through the rugged terrain, marvel at the wildlife and with some of the darkest skies in Europe, gaze at the heavens. And how better to stay awake and alert than with a cup of Stargazer tea? Welshpool based, Morgan’s Brew Tea, creators of a mind-boggling array of teas, have developed two blends which celebrate this stunning area. In a masterstroke of innovation they have created a welcome pack to showcase the region. It contains all the maps and guides a visitor needs to plan a stay in the Cambrian Mountains and rather wonderfully, two 50g packs of tea: Cambrian Mountains Black and Cambrian Mountains Dark Sky Stargazer. The black tea is perfect for any occasion. A blend of Assam, Darjeeling, Kenyan and Sri Lankan, it has an elegant, sophisticated taste and a wonderfully rich colour. The Stargazer tea is something else entirely. This is a banging infusion of Yunnag green tea, lemongrass, apple, hibiscus, orange and mango. It blew our minds. With an initial sweetly perfumed bouquet, the delicious, zinging sharpness of the tea itself comes as an unexpected delight. Refreshing, invigorating and just the job to keep you alert to enjoy the sparkling night’s sky. www.morgansbrewtea.co.uk www.thecambrianmountains.co.uk/

Food and Drink

Hive Mind Sparkling Mead The story goes that in ancient China a pot of honey was left out in the rain…. a short while later it had magically transformed into a richly aromatic drink, mead. This is not just the stuff of history (cue frothing tankards, sported by Henry VIII), but with only three ingredients (honey, water and yeast), mead is possibly one of the purest products around. With their sparkling collection, Hive Mind (formerly the Wye Valley Meadery) have given the world’s oldest alcohol the air of sophistication that our modern world demands; think summer festival vibes not marauding Vikings! Handily available in cans, we loved the packaging; bold motifs on a striking hexagonal background. While all four varieties are pleasingly frothy and share a gorgeous, honeyed loveliness, each has its very own character. Pure Honey is unexpectedly light and crisp, with the most delicate sweetness. It is thirst-quenching and summery, but still soft on the tongue, leaving smoothness in its wake. The Rhubarb is lighter still, with a subtle sharpness cutting through gentle hints of vanilla. The Elderflower is richer and more deeply flavoured. A complex drink with floral overtones, a perfect cordial for a summer’s picnic. The Ginger has a mellow warmth, a long way from the sweet, fiery concoctions we are used to. All are made with natural ingredients using honey from Hive Mind’s own hives. No wonder these sparkling meads are creating such a buzz! www.hivemindmead.com

CRWST Pembrokeshire Sea Salted Caramel. Richly indulgent, smooth, sweet but salty. We tried lashings of it, first on vanilla ice-cream and then on tangy Greek yoghurt. It elevated both, adding a luxuriousness wherever it went, its toffee butteriness cut through with salt. But we didn’t stop there. Enter CRWST Chocolate & coconut granola clusters – deep, dark, rich, intense chocolate-nuttiness with a lovely gentle crunch, reminiscent of grown-up crispy cakes. Bursting with oats, almonds, coconut and pumpkin seeds. It is healthy, but feels totally wicked. Delicious on its own or with milk, but sublime when atop our ice-cream, sea salted caramel sundae! And for pure chocoholic heaven, we washed it all down with the sumptuous CRWST 55% Dark Hot Chocolate – gloriously rich and dark, with more velvet than a pre-Raphaelite dandy’s jacket. CRWST’s products are all clearly well thought through and created from top-draw ingredients. There isn’t a better illustration of why you should ditch the massproducers and go quality, luxury, local and Welsh. www.crwst.cymru

Burts The Bakers Viennese Whirls and Welsh Whisky Fruit Cake Burts can trace their history back to 1914 and the renowned ‘Gwalia Stores’ of Ogmore Vale, well known as the rebuilt grocery/bakery in St Fagan’s National Museum of Wales. Whilst the premises may have changed, the business is still family owned and still making a marvellous range of cakes, Viennese whirls and mince pies based on the recipes perfected by the owners’ grandfather nearly a century ago. For the purposes of this review, we’ll be focussing on their Viennese Whirls, a ‘biscuit’ that they export in their hundreds of thousands to the USA, and a modern version of their classic fruit cake – made with Penderyn Welsh whisky.

CRWST In a few short years CRWST has grown from a tiny gem of a bakery, selling artisan bakes in Cardigan market, to delivering deliciousness throughout Wales and beyond. Osian, who developed his love of cooking while baking with his Mamgu, joined forces with Catrin and in 2016 CRWST was born. The business has moved from strength to strength but still holds fast to its founding principles; close attention to sourcing quality ingredients and baking real handmade bread. While those lucky enough to be visiting Cardigan can enjoy their tasty offerings in the relaxed vibe of the CRWST café, the rest of us can get our hands on them via CRWST’s website. We sampled just a few.

Viennese Whirls are a British creation, loosely based on a Viennese style of pastry. Burts take are top drawer – two perfect, light, shortbread biscuits resplendent with their swirly finish, full of lovely buttery flavour and lightly dusted with fine sugar, sandwiching a moist butter cream. The cream came in two varieties – lemon zest, that genuinely smacks of real lemon and not flavouring, thanks to a generous amount of the real thing in the recipe. The same goes for the vanilla and strawberry. Proper fruit abounds and it shines through. Laden with sultanas and cherries and citrus peel, their Welsh Whisky Fruit Cake Squares were not too dense, perfectly moist and wonderfully rich. And for that extra bit of luxury, flavoured with Penderyn’s Madeira cask Welsh whisky which adds a soft, complex spirit richness without any overpowering booziness. They, and the Viennese Whirls, are a demonstration of the confectioner’s art. Available from various retail. fb: BurtsTheBakers

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Summer fruit Myfanwy Alexander High summer is the most delicious time of the year, the time when the sometimes worthy injunctions to eat seasonal and local are no hardship. I could wax lyrical about the qualities of summer eggs, with their deep yellow yolks or the nearly golden cream on full milk at this time of year or indeed fabulous asparagus but the delights of the season are too numerous to mention so I will confine myself to the glories of fruit.

produce a limited supply of wild whinberry jam, which they source from the mountains high above the Mawddach estuary. Stocks are, needless to say, limited so don’t delay in ordering. Preserves of this quality shouldn’t be kept just for breakfast toast: why not heat a couple of spoonsful gently with water and a squeeze of lemon to make a delicious sauce to pour over icecream?

The glory of the Welsh summer is the... what do you call it? That little blue thing. The plant Vaccinium myrtillus has a whole variety of names: in my home, my mother referred to these fruits as bilberries, one sister-in-law called them blaeberries, another whortleberries but for Dad, they were whin or, more often llus. My father vividly recalled the endless days of endless inter-War summers on what he called ‘The Mountain’ picking whinberries with his school friends and the ever-present risk of having the booty stolen. The boys of Maerdy were particularly cunning, timing their attacks for the return of the foraging party, when the baskets were fully laden. Dad, not normally a resentful man, never forgave those he called ‘the Maerdy Robbers,’ and anyone who has ever been up on the hills gathering this deep blue treasure will know why. The low growing plant, a cousin to the heather it grows amongst, produces tiny berries in the wild, perhaps a quarter of the size of a commercial blue berry and the harvester can choose to either bend double for hours, thereby risking a bad back, or crawl on the boggy ground, thereby guaranteeing wet knees.

And speaking of ice-cream, when so many wonderful treats are available from places like Giannis in St Davids, Joes in Swansea and beyond, Heavenly in Llandeilo and Llanfaes Dairy in Brecon, it may seem quixotic or even foolhardy for me to continue to make my own. And yet I do, with the perennial favourites being praline and ‘one of the ones with bits of biscuit in,’ as described by my children. Not all my ice-cream experiments are a triumph, as witness the Triple Ginger, which was, frankly, a bit hard core, but I returned to top form recently with my Balsamic Strawberry Ripple. This began, as so many good things do, with making the best of a bad job, in this case, rather unprepossessing supermarket strawberries. I steeped them overnight in a little balsamic vinegar and a sprinkling of sugar and by noon the following day, they were ready to include in an Eton Mess. (You can, of course, make Llandovery Mess with any extra whinberries you might have to hand.) I stirred the syrup I had drained from the strawberries through ice cream which had almost set, and the result was, though self-praise is no recommendation, delicious.

I’m a crawler by technique and rather relish being so close to the peaty soil: it is well worth it for the tiny, hard-won berries pack a mighty punch. The flavour on the wild whinberry is at the same time both more delicate and more intense than its cultivated relatives, which means that the classic culinary strategies employed to make scarce ingredients go further, work really well: a couple of handfuls transform a humble apple pie or crumble. Another natural pairing is whinberry sauce with Welsh lamb, such as the leg steaks available from Edwards of Conwy. You could go for the new season valley lamb available at high summer but because, as Thomas Love Peacock reminded us, ‘the mountain sheep are sweeter,’ it is worth freezing some summer whinberries until the autumn. Do ask your butcher for the breed of lamb you’re buying: a hill breed goes perfectly with hill berries.

Of course, had I thought this through, I would have prepared by going to a pick your own farm and there are such a variety in Wales now that there is no excuse. From Hootons up near Menai Bridge down to Berry Hill Fruit Farm in Monmouthshire, there is really no excuse not to experience the difference that real freshness makes to soft fruit. Many places, such as The Fruit Garden in the Vale of Glamorgan now grow tabletop strawberries to minimize bending and they also produce their own Wild Fig ice cream. And it’s not just grubbing about in a windy field while one’s children eat themselves sick these days: producers like Bellis Brothers in the Dee have well-stocked shops selling local sourced treats (check out their calendar and stocking mileage chart) and a restaurant serving strawberry beer.

If you haven’t the leisure time, or the under-employed offspring to forage yourself, Goetre Farm Preserves

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Now, if you will excuse me, I have only picked four thousand whinberries today and I will need eight thousand for a crumble.

Call the team on 01766 810251 or email sccsales@sccwales.co.uk to find out more about our new range! www. dragonwales.co.uk

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WELSH BEEF WITH VEG KOFTAS

WELSH LAMB AND FETA BURGER

Relish in your barbecue... Discover your finger-licking favourite.

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