TEEN EYE Autumn 2015 THE ADRENALINE ISSUE
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General Inquiries: info@teeneyemagazine.com Editor-in-Chief: Zak Cannon - zak@teeneyemagazine.com Art Editor: Kiannah Zambrano - kiannah@teeneyemagazine.com Fashion Editor: Em Odesser - emily@teeneyemagazine.com Culture Editor: Beatrice Bock - beatrice@teeneyemagazine.com Assistant Editor: Joy Garese - joy@teeneyemagazine.com
What’s On The Inside ART The Teen Eye editors review the films, books, and music that gave them goosebumps this year. A collection of adrenaline-inspired art from some of the most talented teen creators. The unsolved mystery of the Isabella Gartner art heist and how its effects permeate the space to this very day.
Zak Cannon sits down with Paolo Raeli to speak about how an artist utilizes adrenaline to create stunning photographs of teenage life.
Champagne! Glitter! Backstage fiascos! Desiree Michel makes a case for the little moments that count.
FASHION Spring 2016 coverage of some of the most notable shows in New York: Yeezy, Babyghost, Pyer Moss, Ohne Titel and beyond... Interviews with bald models, bold designers, and big stars.
In Em’s latest installment of Ask The Industry, fashion breakouts and icons alike talk about their greatest fears.
CULTURE Straying from the usual forms of entertainment, a group of teenagers attend an adrenaline-spiked house concert, changing their perceptions of music forever.
Can’t Get Enough? See more e x c l u s i v e c o n t e n t a t t eeney e m a g a z i n e .c o m
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Letter From The Editor Adrenaline, both biological and metaphorical, is a powerful force behind countless bouts of inspiration, rage, joy, and affection. In the world of art, artists often finding their own overwhelming emotions guiding their creative process. In fashion, the rush of stepping on the runway or sewing the final stitch to a garment is what keeps millions interested in an ever-evolving industry. In culture, politics, social movements, and cries for freedom are inspired by defiant bursts of adrenaline. This pattern has recurred through history and stretches even to our lives today. In this edition of Teen Eye, you will find both the sources of adrenaline and the results of what that mysterious chemical can do. From one of the greatest art heists in history, to fashion icons talking about what they fear most, to the thrill of being at a concert, this issue speaks to the part of ourselves that desires the shallow breaths and goosebumps that adrenaline can provide. I would like to give special thanks, as usual, to my fantastic, beautiful editors - Kiannah, Em, and Beatrice. I would like to also give thanks to our designer Tom Sutton who made this edition as gorgeous as you’ll soon see. The future of Teen Eye is endlessly promising and I can’t wait for all of you - our readers - to take this journey with us. With love, Zak Cannon Editor-in-Chief
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Draw
by Tokoni O. Uti
Get ready to draw blood Get ready to swim in floods Get ready to leap mountains Get read to drain fountains Get ready to join forces Get ready to switch courses Get ready to swallow your pride Get ready to pick sides Get ready to cast lots Get ready to invade plots Get ready for blood and thunders Get ready to go under
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Featured Our fav or i t e b ook s, f i l m s , p ro d u c t s , m u s i c , a n d m o re . From t he e d i t o r s o f Te e n E y e .
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Teen Eye Magazine
It Follows (2015)
Directed by David Robert Mitchell
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Sevdaliza is a new musical force on the scene, one that is already raising eyebrows and perking ears to her experimental sound. A sonic collision of FKA Twigs, Jessie Ware, and Banks, Sevdaliza released her EP The Suspended Kid in January of this year. Her lyrics drone about heartbreak, love, and Marilyn Monroe over unpredictable synths that surround and beat against your chest. Adrenaline -inducing? For sure.
The Psychopath Test (2011) written by Jon Ronson
Want to get your adrenaline pumping? It Follows is an indie thriller about a group of teenagers followed by a mysterious entity that can appear as both complete strangers and their closest friends. This truly terrifying experience is being hailed as a new classic from critics all over the country. Utilizing suspense instead of cheap visual effects or gore, David Robert Mitchell has managed to shock audiences with Maika Monroe and Keir Gilchrist’s dreamy performances. After you’re finished, check the online forums for fantastic fan theories on what exactly “it” could possibly be.
The Suspended Kid (2015) EP by Sevdaliza
The Psychopath Test is a book written by journalist Jon Ronson about his discovery of the world of psychopathy and its chilling subjects. What started as a small investigation into a mysterious book called Being or Nothingness rapidly transforms into an addictive peer at what makes a psychopath a psychopathand whether or not you’re one yourself. This eerie look into the most feared individuals in the world lends insight into the complex minds of human beings and provides a caring aspect to one of the most terrifying mental illnesses in history.
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The Impossible Project After the dissolution of Polaroid’s manufacturing in 2008, the world turned their backs in favor of iPhones, DSLRs, and snapshot cameras. Nevertheless, a small team of creatives still devoted to the art of the instant photograph decided to purchase the Polaroid equipment and start their own production of instant film,The Impossible Project. Despite the onslaught of photographs readily made available through our smartphones and cameras, a new wave of photographers want a style only analog cameras can achieve. Now, hundreds of thousands of teens use their Impossible film to capture little moments that seem all the more interesting in front of the flash of a Polaroid camera. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of a picture developing before your very eyes.
Teen Eye Magazine
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Paolo Raeli Photographer
Zak Cannon sits down with the young photographer Paolo Raeli on adrenaline, internet fame, and the process behind his dreamy photographs.
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How old are you? I am 21 years old. Where are you from? I am from Palermo, in South Italy. How did you discover photography? I’ve always had an interest for photography. I had my first compact camera when I was 14 years old, but I completely fell in love with photography at 18, when my boyfriend convinced me to buy my first digital camera, a Nikon d90. How did you discover art? [My] mom is an artist, so when I was very little I’ve always been influenced by her into expressing myself and appreciating all the different form sof art there are in this world. How has your birthplace of Italy and your current home in Denmark influenced your work? The people are different, the buildings are different. Each place has a different story and it’s beautiful to explore it with my camera. In South Italy I feel like the light is different than the one in Denmark. And photography is like painting with lights, so of course the pictures ends up being unique. Rome was the most inspiring place I’ve been to, and I think I took the best pictures there.
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You’ve essentially immortalized your friends you’ve photographed through the years, many of which have became famous on Tumblr. How does this make them feel? It’s amazing, and I also feel very lucky that some of the pictures gained so much attention through social media. Especially for young artists, being well-known on the internet can be vital sometimes, as it opens so many opportunities that you wouldn’t get without having a big audience. It’s also very nice and funny when people look through my pictures and tell me “Oh you took this picture?! I saw it thousands of times before on Tumblr!” Who would you say your greatest influence is? This is a hard question but I really like the work of Nan Goldin. Talk about one time when your had a burst of adrenaline when photographing/creating art. What gave you a euphoric feeling? Basically we were in this car, heading to a concert, and my friend Carola was singing a song with her head outside the window. I was sitting in the backseat, so I took a picture of her and it ended up looking beautiful, with her blue and brown hair all around her face but without covering it, and she had a very serene expression, too. When I saw the result I was in awe. I really love that picture.
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Featured Art
Art
by Joe Cruz
This and following page by Sergi Serra Mir
by Ira Limon
by Eugenia Loli
by Richard Foster
by Nina Ahn
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Isabellas’s Portrait
Text by Rebecca Lo Presti.
Art
Isabella Gardner’s portrait is beautiful. She is forever immortalized in paint, just like the art she always loved. Sitting in a room with the likes of Adam, Eve, and assorted other religious figures, she observes the other paintings around her, but also manages to meet the eyes of visitors who enter the room. The artist herself spent her years collecting art from all around the world and bringing it back to her grand mansion in Boston, amassing an art collection unparalleled in private collections all around the world. It was her treasure, a homage to everything she had ever been through and everything she wanted to go through. How fitting, it seems, to have a goddess of her own house in a room otherwise filled with sainted figures. Each painting has its own special place in the museum. The smallest pictures are fitted like puzzle pieces to have gravity next to massive oil paintings. Everything seems as if it should work, and yet, something feels off. The museum is incomplete. Isabella’s delicate balance of art is off kilter. In the Dutch Room, four frames hang empty on the wall. A little card sits under a painting in place of a tiny sketch that once hung there. The Blue Room is missing a painting, and the cabinets in the Short Gallery are short of five pictures. The numbers seem insignificant, perhaps even hardly noticeable. But each piece of art is no longer in its place. On March 18, 1990, two thieves came into the Isabella Gardner Museum disguised as cops. They tied up the guards and then proceeded to steal a small self portrait of Rembrandt, along with his Storm on the Sea of Galilee, A Lady and Gentleman in Black, Vermeer’s The Concert, Govaert Flinck’s Landscape with an Obelisk, five works on paper by Edgar Degas, Edouard Manet’s Chez Tortoni, a Chinese vase, and a flag topper. In an hour’s time, the museum was robbed. Isabella’s meticulous work was torn apart by two thieves. As of now, none of the stolen works have been recovered. In August of this year, new footage of that fateful night was released from security tapes,shedding some light on what happened leading up to the theft. There have been some breaks in the case, but no one seems to know for sure. The people of Boston have heard different theories circulate since the moment the crime was reported. Some believe a mob was involved. Others think that overseas collectors wanted the artwork badly enough to steal it. Either way, the frames are still empty. Are newly-empty frames still art? They no longer hold their pictures, and the emptiness is now quite obvious. The frames in the Dutch Room, in particular, fill
Courtesy of Nic McPhee. the space with a vastness that seems massive and confined at the same time, as the paintings were the focal points of the room. They force the eye to process the green cloth the decorates the wall, the edges where paintings once lived until they were sliced apart and rolled up and smuggled out in the depths of night. The frames have now become part of the museum in the haunting way a spirit becomes part of its house. They are unsettling to look at. They are unnatural and terrifying because the void consumes the viewer. No one knows if the thieves looked at the voids before they left with their goods. Art theft holds a special place in crime. Can art truly be stolen? Pictures remain of some of the paintings. However, the experience of looking at a printed, scaled-down Rembrant pales in comparison to examining the paint strokes and colors of the real thing. Good artists pour their souls into their work, and someone decided to tear those souls apart. Morally, looking at pictures seems almost wrong and perverted. The printings aren’t the real thing. The stain of theft left the museum changed. Isabelle’s one request was that everything would stay in the same place after she passed. Nothing would be moved. This agreement was broken. It was violated, abused, and left to linger in the air of Isabella’s home. Now, her portrait looks out into the room, searching for the people who stole her soul. It is possible the thieves had already peered into the museum before or after the theft. They might have looked at Isabella. She might have met their eyes, or missed them among all the other visitors. No one may ever know. As of now, the paintings could be ruined. Art of such antiquity requires certain temperatures and conditions to remain strong. They could be rotting in a basement. Maybe they will be returned. Maybe one day Isabella will have her museum whole again. For now, the frames hang in a silent scream that breaks any stillness in the rooms.
Teen Eye Magazine
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Who You Should Know Before you start reading the fashion section, a who’s-who guide:
WHO: Joseph Singh WHAT: Designer FROM: New York RECOGNIZE HIM? Joseph was the Parsons Womenswear Designer of the Year INSTAGRAM: @JosephSingh
WHO: Hanne Linhares WHAT: Model WITH: Joy Model Management (Brazil), Munich Models (Munich), Major Models (Milan), Major Model Management (New York) FROM: Brazil RECOGNIZE HER? This season, Hanne was a Calvin Klein exclusive in New York, and went on to walk Alberta Ferretti, Elisabetta Franchi, Marni, Trussardi, Blugirl, Roland Mouret, and Hermès. INSTAGRAM: @hanne_linhares
WHO: Jess Thomas WHAT: Model, contestant on Australia’s Next Top Model WITH: IMG Sydney FROM: Australia RECOGNIZE HER? Jess is a face of Tresemme, and was in the final four of her ANTM season INSTAGRAM: @jessicagrace_thomas
WHO: Yana Dobroliubova WHAT: Model WITH: Grace Models Moscow, Next Milan FROM: Russia RECOGNIZE HER? This season, Yana closed Phillip Plein and walked for Yohji Yamamoto, Emporio Armani, and Fausto Puglisi. She was also named Models.com’s Model of the Week. INSTAGRAM: @y_dobroliubova
WHO: Barbara Egolm WHAT: Model WITH: Louisa Models (Munich), Scoop Models Copenhagen, Women Milan, SUPREME MANAGEMENT Paris FROM: Copenhagen, Denmark WHAT YOU KNOW HER FROM: Barbara made her international debut as an exclusive for Gucci SS16. INSTAGRAM: @barbaraegholm
WHO: Cecilie and Amalie Moosgaard WHAT: Models, twins! WITH: Le Management (Copenhagen, Stockholm), Next (London, Milan, Paris) FROM: Denmark RECOGNIZE THEM? The twins were Prada exclusives in Milan, but also walked Miu Miu, Valentino, Sonia Rykiel, and Sacai. INSTAGRAMS: @amaliemoosgaard, @ceciliemoosgaard
WHO: Alice Metza WHAT: Model WITH: Two Management (LA), Elite (London, Paris), Why Not Milan, The Society New York FROM: LA RECOGNIZE HER? Alice was everywhere this season: not only did she open Kenzo and close Proenza Schouler, but a few of her thirty-two shows included Marc Jacobs, Prada, Alexander Wang, Loewe, Altuzarra, Lanvin, Jacquemus, DVF, and Moschino. INSTAGRAM: @6bubbles6erotica6
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Fifteen Minutes of Fame
Text by Desiree Michel. Images by Kevin Tachman.
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Andy Warhol said that we all get fifteen minutes of fame. That’s about how long designers have to impress the colorful crowd that attend their shows. They may have taken months, or even a year to put a show together, a lifetime to even think of it and a daring second to go with it but everything comes down to fifteen minutes. And as nerve-wracking as it sounds, they manage to make it happen because that’s just what legends do. Backstage might be loud, in a frenzy, in shambles but the show must go on. Hearts are pounding and people are clapping while the rest of the world turns, obliviously. Those moments, the split seconds full of panic and hairspray and “line up! five minutes until first look”, are so beautiful. Like something out of a Gatsby party; they are all glitter and smiles, handshakes and shaking hands. As soon as creators are done with one thing, they are already adding the final touches to another. It’s a never ending, magnificent spiral that’s drowning in sparkles, champagne and adrenaline. Fashion is always fifty steps ahead; while we are getting rid of our flimsy sun dresses and replacing them with scratchy school uniforms and business suits, designers are proving in their collection just how exciting the next summer will be. It’s a stern industry, a machine that’s always rolling, a private party and we’re all on the waiting list. Fashion shows are the flowers at the end of the stem at the end of the roots; they’re the tip of the iceberg. Everyone is touched when something revolutionary happens. Every heart beats a bit faster, everyone sighs completely in awe. Our veins pump with adrenaline because we witnessed something beautiful. We’re all a part of the canvas. Fashion isn’t boring, superficial or self-centered. It’s an industry that’s based on pleasing others. It’s giving and bursting with creativity and it’s always bustling with ener-
gy. So many people’s knowledge stops at “pretty people”, “extravagant clothes”, “walking down a runaway”. When I found out about the theme of this issue, it took me at least an hour to link fashion and adrenaline together. Because let’s be honest here, folks, when we think of adrenaline, we picture extreme sports or getting hit by a car. But intense feelings don’t have to come from a dangerous place, they come from intense moments; moments so beautiful you’re bound to remember them for the rest of your life. It’s Linda Evangelista’s short hair and yellow dress, so otherworldly and extraordinary it could be a tropical storm; it’s robots splattering Shalom Harlow’s dress in the Alexander McQueen show in 1999, and it’s Coco Chanel’s little black one; it’s Linda, Naomi, Cindy and Christy closing Versace’s fall show in 1991. Adrenaline is every time your breath got caught in your throat because you managed to get a pair of those designer shoes you wanted. It’s every seemingly futile emotion that we feel over pieces of clothing. How unbelievable! You don’t have to sweat to change the world nor to feel it. It can happen simply because Marc Jacobs decided to turn his SS16 show into a golden-age-era-esque movie premiere . Fashion isn’t boring or too feminine or irrelevant. It’s an adrenaline-filled industry with geniuses and artists. It’s eternal and when the stain we thought we left on the world will turn out to be only a handprint on a steamy mirror and vanishes away, fashion will become all we have. I know it sounds dramatic but it’s true - fashion is art and we wear it every day. We are creators and consumers of adrenaline and therefore, slaves of fashion. Ropes and chains don’t hurt that much when they’re wrapped around an Alexander McQueen’s scarf, right?
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Joseph Singh Em challenges Joseph Singh to answer a lightning round of 5 questions in one minute at his Spring Summer 2016 presentation. What is the most important piece of advice you’ve ever received?
What time did you wake up this morning?
Don’t give up.
I haven’t slept in 3 days! [Laughs] Literally!
What’s your shopping philosophy?
What’s the most interesting place your job took you?
Buy what you like and be comfortable in it.
You know what, I think it was Japan. I went there to learn more about textiles.
What’s one thing you wish you knew on the first day of working in the fashion industry? Run with it. If you have a dream you have to run with it.
Obviously it paid off! This collection looks incredible. Well done :-)
Fashion
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The Waiting Game
Gemma Ward opening Prada SS15. Courtesy of Monica Feudi/Feudiguaineri.com
Text by Eden Pritikin.
Fashion
Seasoned runway veteran Harleth Kuusik with fresh faces Tami Williams, Angel Rutledge and Aamito Lagum backstage at Etro SS16.
Lineisy, backstage at Diane Von Furstenberg with Karlie Kloss, Jourdan Dunn, Von Furstenberg, Anna Cleveland, and Alice Metza (read our interview with Metza on page
Nothing gets my heart pumping more than watching a fashion show and waiting for my favorite model to step out on the runway. It’s a little game for me; in my head, I’m planning out who is going to open, who is going to walk, and who is going to close. Half the time, I’m not even watching the show for the clothes. While I do appreciate new collections, fashion week is all about the models for me.
to watch Louis Vuitton. Although some may think it is crazy, I do it because I care about the models. As someone who can appreciate their talent and their diligence, I find it important for them to know that there are people in this world who truly care for them and want to see them succeed. When a new face opens Prada or debuts as a Calvin Klein exclusive, I want to celebrate that moment with them.
I always find myself rushing to class so I can pull out my laptop in time for the next show or blocking the busy Boston sidewalk as my eyes stay glued to my phone waiting for the the livestream to start, for the crowd to settle in their seats so the show can begin. My grades tend to dip during fashion week because how am I supposed to focus on my studies when I could be spending the time to memorize new faces and check up on the models.com runway rankings? I always warn my teachers that I can’t be bothered with any homework; it’s fashion week.
There is, of course, a downside to fashion week; those celebrities trying to model and stealing the spotlight from the real stars of fashion week. How is it that Kendall Jenner can get praised for walking a maximum of fourteen shows during fashion week, while girls like Alexandra Elizabeth Ljadov and Waleska Gorczevski both walk sixty four shows and get no recognition for it? There’s a reason why models like Hanne Gaby Odiele and Daria Strokous are still walking in tons of shows every season. They didn’t get their industry icon statuses for starting out as celebrities. They are true models with talent and a drive that keeps them going twelve seasons later. We shouldn’t let a model’s talent be overshadowed because they are not popular enough to be recognized on E! News.
Photo by Charlotte Tilbury (@ctilburymakeup)
During the SS15 season, I was sitting in my economics class when Gemma Ward opened Prada. Gemma Ward was the first model I ever loved. Watching her career made meso model-obsessed; I never anticipated her to make a comeback, which made her Prada appearance all the more special. My best friend and I were waiting for the show to begin while my teacher was giving some lecture on supply and demand. As the first model walked out, we looked at each other, our jaws dropped and eyes wide. “Is that Gemma Ward?” she whispered. I was in too much shock to respond. I started nodding my head yes as my best friend let out an “oh my god” and tears of joy started rolling down my face. My teacher had to stop his lecture to ask us if we were alright. We clearly weren’t. Class ended a few minutes later, and I rushed to the cafeteria to check every social media outlet I could. Everyone’s reaction seemed to be the same as mine. As I looked on the Instagram feeds of IMG and Ashley Brokaw, I saw the same caption over and over again. “She’s back,” they all read, and that is when I began to really cry. There I was, sitting in the cafeteria at school, sobbing for all the world to see, because my favorite model was making a comeback. I live frantically for checking Nowfashion and staying in at night to watch the Proenza Schouler show and waking up at 3:00am
via @DVF instagram
I am often asked, what makes Kendall Jenner or Cara Delevingne a bad model? Instead of answering the question, I respond by describing what makes a great model. I tell them about Julia Nobis’ and Lexi Boling’s mentor/muse relationship with Steven Meisel. I explain why Liya Kebede and Freja Beha Erichsen make a great match with Nicolas Ghesquiere. I remind them that before Karlie Kloss was a Victoria’s Secret model she was John Galliano’s muse at Dior. I show them photos of new faces like Tami Williams, Lineisey Montero, Aamito Lagum and Angel Rutledge and explain why their futures are so bright. My answers might sound like another language, but people pay attention because they realize how passionate I am about the models I do love. I care more about seeing my favorite girls succeed than I do about taking other “models” down. It all comes back to the waiting game—waiting for the show to start, waiting for the campaigns to come out, waiting for the next cover of Vogue Italia to be revealed. I can get impatient sometimes, but the wait makes the result all the more exciting.
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Hanne Linhares
Interview Em talks to the Calvin Klein exclusive about timeless outfits and always believing.
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What is the most important piece of advice you’ve ever received?
Those who have faith and believe can do anything. What’s your shopping philosophy? Buy what is classic and timeless. Purchase necessary and no more than you need. What’s one thing you wish you knew on the first day of working in the fashion industry?
I would like to know everything about each designer. Their references and desires. What time did you wake up this morning? I wake up at 8 o’clock in the morning. Sometimes even earlier. What’s the most interesting place your job took you? The coolest place I’ve ever been as a model was California! Our theme for issue 3 is “adrenaline” - what’s your biggest fear?
My biggest fear is [to] stop believing.
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Aging out
Text by Carson Gartner
Fashion
The fashion industry has an infatuation with youth. Unfortunately, this isn’t anything new. Since the turn of the century, the age of the models designers have been using has been getting progressively younger. Our senses have been numbed by the instant gratification of technology, and thus we incessantly demand and expend media, clothing, and even models. Gone are the days of the amazonian supers, with personalities as big as their careers, which were half the size of their reputations, which were half the size of their paychecks. Christy, Linda, Cindy and Naomi were women in the every sense of the word. Today’s trends prefer a different kind of girl. Enter Sofia Mechetner, fourteen year old newbie, current “muse” of Christian Dior creative director Raf Simons, and above all, the antithesis of the 90s supers. Where they were tanned, she is pale; where they were given a strong voice, she has none; and where they were women, she is girl. While clearly beautiful, and seamlessly inserted into Simon’s show, Mechetner exemplifies the fashion industry’s unsettling penchant for favoring sixteen year old models. Unsurprisingly, the news that Simons had placed a fourteen year old in his show (in a translucent dress, no less) caused quite the outrage, forcing spectators to wonder, where do we draw the line? Most of today’s new-gen supermodels started their careers as teenagers: Natasha Poly at eighteen, Jourdan Dunn at sixteen, Karlie Kloss at fifteen. For every successful model who started her career at such a delicate age, there are thousands more who have been unfortunately lost in the fray. Other American models who started their careers at roughly the same time at Kloss, with the same agency, Elite, who were projected to have the same amount of success as Kloss was, include Gwen Carrier, Kayla Travers, and Courtney Smerski. All were teenagers, and all stopped modeling shortly after Kloss made her debut. Why? Maybe they couldn’t handle the pressure and the requirements, maybe just chose a different path, or maybe, like most teenagers, they didn’t quite know themselves yet. Spotlight on the Elite Model Look Contest, a worldwide modeling contest against girls from a variety of countries around the world, spearheaded by the Elite Modeling Agency Worldwide and The Society Management NYC. This organization has a long history of producing models who aren’t even legally allowed to work yet. Recent participants include Vittoria Ceretti of EML 2012, then age
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fifteen, Greta Varlese of EML 2014, then age fifteen, and Marine Deleeuw of EML 2012, then age seventeen. Out of this year’s ten Chilean competitors, only one is above the age of sixteen, and the winner is a mere fourteen years old. The young ages of these girls create a “the younger, the better,” mentality, one that, if expressed in any industry but the fashion industry, would cause quite a stir and more than likely a few lawsuits. However, in this atmosphere, a model is expendable, a placeholder whose career is over in a few short seasons. Each season, a new, younger, fresher girl takes to the scene, while a handful of “of the moment,” not-young-enough models are swept aside. Many models who started young find their second wind after they’ve taken a break and matured a bit. See Jamie Bochert, who started in 2002 at the age of eighteen, took a break in 2004, then returned to the industry in 2008. Today, at the age of thirty, Bochert is arguably one of the top models in the world. Similarly, Australian model Catherine McNeil got her start in a Model Search contest at the age of fourteen. After working steadily for a few years, she took a break from 2009-2012, started working again, and quickly become more successful than she ever was as a teenager. German model Lara Stone didn’t start her career until the age of 23 when she signed to IMG Models worldwide. Now, at thirty one, she is one of the most recognizable faces in the modeling industry and is praised for her femininity and maturity. In the past few seasons a group of older models has risen to prominence, with 27-year old Indian model Bhumika Arora leading the pack. Arora began her career while attending university in India, and worked locally for several years until 2013, when she sent her photos to Elite Paris and was signed. She has been working steadily for the past 3 seasons and is currently a muse of Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci. Even after a year and a half, Arora’s career is still heating up, and an increasing amount of influential players in the fashion industry are taking note. She is often praised by designers, bloggers, and casting directors for her mature look and attitude. In an industry where networking and communication are key factors in a person’s success, age would seem to be an advantage. So, is Arora an indication of a new trend in the modeling industry? Does she signal a shift away from the fetishization of children that is ostensibly present in the fashion industry? We can only wonder.
Teen Eye Magazine
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Is Fashion School Worth It?
Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Alexander Wang… A brief skim through Parsons School of Design’s lengthy list of notable alumni is enough to send an aspiring teenage fashion designer to instantly hop onto a laptop, create an online application, and spend hours on end polishing up their portfolios in hopes of getting accepted into this dream school. For many young fashion enthusiasts who are bursting with creative talent and are fueled by ambition - flipping through the pages of i-D, Vogue, and CR Fashion Book, following the most influential blogs, and watching recordings of every runway show - there simply aren’t enough learning opportunities to feed their imaginations. And to them, attending fashion school could possibly be the stepping stone to success in the fashion world. The Business of Fashion (BoF) recently released its very first rankings of the top global fashion schools for 2015. The list consists of 21 undergraduate and 10 graduate fashion programs. Among the most noteworthy BA programs were London’s Central Saint Martins in first place for both “Most Influential” and “Best Overall”, the New York City-based Parsons in the second slot for “Most Influential” and fourth for “Best Overall,” and the Fashion Institute of Technology in the third position for “Most Influential” and fifth for “Best Overall.” These prestigious colleges are recognized not only for their distinct strengths and unique qualities, but also for their influential graduates. College may be the first major shot rising visionaries have to make their mark on the industry, so attending the right fashion school can be crucial to properly fine-tune their talent. It’s no wonder that the opportunity to communicate with instructors and professors who offer fresh and advanced expertise, to experiment and be inspired by the innovation of like-minded
peers, and to brush up one’s technique enough to assemble a diverse portfolio and resume would naturally appeal to students. However, is merely going to fashion school, landing a stream of internships, and putting in a decent amount of effort enough to pin down one’s fashion dreams? This is where factors such as tuition fees, networking, and post graduation job preparation come into play. Just a few days after the publication of the worldwide fashion school rankings, BoF released findings from the same survey in an article titled “Is Fashion Education Selling a False Dream?” The survey includes 60 data points collected from 24 participating institutions. Surveys were filled out by 4,032 students and alumni, and feedback was received from 88 HR professionals and international fashion influencers as well as The Business of Fashion’s own analysis team. BoF’s Global Fashion Schools Rankings is based on three major measures of quality - global influence, learning experience, and long-term value. They observed that “83% students are generally ‘satisfied’ or ‘very satisfied’ with the teaching, 83% are ‘satisfied’ or ‘very satisfied’ with the library and study materials, and 76% are ‘satisfied’ or ‘very satisfied’ with workrooms, buildings and campuses.” This good news was supported by the discovery that students are very appreciative of their teachers. As an alumnus of Central Saint Martins mentioned, “Tutors are of a very high caliber and with relevant experience from industry or still work within industry. [They] are very good at recognizing potential and pushing students to produce their best work.” Similarly, a former student of the Fashion Institute of Technology reflected, “I really believe FIT is among the last remaining US fashion school that provides students with an adequate education in garment construction and patternmaking. It’s a quintessentially old-fashioned technical school, which has advantages…” In contrast, just 575 students of the 4,032 total who took part in the survey are content with the career services offered. To make matters worse, only 53% are pleased with the networking events provided at their schools and only 49% are happy with the quality of recruiters on their campuses. A Parsons graduate commented, “Parsons tested my work ethic and exposed me to a diverse student body and resources, but poorly prepared students for the realities of job placement and career development.” Likewise, “Brilliant school, brilliant exposure, zero help afterwards” was how an outspoken Central Saint Martins grad described her thoughts on the matter. Moreover, when questioned about their professional lives after graduating, a significant number of students admitted that they found themselves having to find jobs outside of the fashion industry or not finding jobs anywhere at all. An article called “UK fashion schools top global rankings, but are their students ready for work?” from The Guardian found that “students rack up huge debts and struggle to pay for materials and think there will be a job at the end because their course has an 89% employment rate,” only to find themselves in an unfavorable situation. Fur-
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thermore, with BA tuition fees costing $18,000 every year on average and MA tuition priced at a standard rate of $23,000 yearly in return for a top notch fashion education, students are starting to demand a better reward for this weighty investment. So would it be best to listen to these warnings and take a different route into higher education, or to study fashion despite the career risks? That depends. Fashion design is the most common major while fields like fashion merchandising or journalism are often pushed off to the side. This makes prospective students wonder if someone in the fashion design department would be more likely to recommend going to fashion school because of the major’s highly technical demands and requirements for more individual attention as opposed to a student studying public relations. In short, earning a degree in design may be extremely helpful in building a career for oneself. However, cultivating artistic potential and abilities, forming an eye for detail, and developing a general understanding of color, texture, and fabric quality without formal or educational training is a reasonable choice that could save a lot of precious time and money. On the other hand, an exceptional fashion school will have a multitude of amazing programs that range from digital media to visual communications that can provide students with the skills to do well in any setting and aid them in developing brilliant portfolios. So is fashion school truly worth it after all? Well, that’s an individual decision too complex to be simplified to a ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answer. Let’s face it, whether you have years of formal education or little to no training, fashion is still going to be a tough business to break into. As The Business of Fashion has explained, the purpose of the global fashion school rankings list is “to assess the value and impact of this growing sector, in hope of aiding prospective students in making informed choices about pursuing higher education in fashion” In other words, it’s all a matter of personal preference and circumstance. For instance, is attending a fashion institute accessible when considering your financial situation? Do you have a career plan that includes solid and obtainable goals? Will you be given a chance to intern with top designers, brands, or companies?. After all, what you want to avoid the most is feeling as if you’re throwing away your money instead of gaining knowledge that could allow you to earn it back in the near future. In the end, just remember that breaking into fashion requires a lot more than a degree and a talent for sketching and sewing runway styles or daydreaming about writing a weekly column on the latest trends. It’s true that through traditional schooling and practice skills can be enhanced; but raw talent, genuine passion, and an affinity for growth and hard work will always be the traits that will launch fashion aspirants into a successful and fulfilling career.
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Jess Thomas
Interview
Ingrid Zhang
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Ingrid Zhang chats with Jess Thomas on her experience in Australia’s biggest modelling competition, how adrenaline has affected her career, and her advice to newcomers in a beautiful but harsh industry. What made you take part in Australia’s Next Top Model? How has the show impacted your life? I thought it would be a great platform and a good experience. It has definitely had an impact on my confidence in the best way possible. I feel like I can go into any situation and face whatever comes my way now in this industry. What does the word adrenaline mean to you? How do you deal with it in your day-to-day life? To me it means experiencing something that makes you nervous and excited at the same time and then when that moment is happening you’re in such a good place you don’t want it to stop. I try to go into everything that I do with excitement if that’s a casting or a job because it makes your mood better and the people you meet get a feeling of joy and adrenaline too. What has been your favourite modelling experience so far? One of my favourites is still the first shoot I ever did which was on the show shooting with Gary Heery. It was just an amazing experience and I loved getting the chance to be captured by him. What is your advice to people trying to tackle the industry? I’d say stay true to who you are and work hard! It’s not easy and there will be bad days but you get on with what’s happening and always be determined and respectful.
What do you think are the three characteristics which have helped you the most in your modelling career? So far probably my manners, work ethic and authenticity. Aside from modelling, what other career aspirations do you have? That’s hard, I have a lot of interests, but business, psychology, and fashion interest me. Do you think fashion is predominantly art or business? I think it depends. I think that commercial fashion is predominantly more business focused whereas high fashion has a more artistic aspiration. What are your perceptions of beauty? What makes a human beautiful? I don’t think there is one person who doesn’t hold some type of beauty. Diversity and difference is one of my favourite beauties. But what makes a human beautiful is their soul. What do you see in the fashion industry that excites you? Constant change and passion that definitely excites me.
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Barbara Egholm
The sunny and sweet Barbara Egholm muses about industry icons and dreamers, straight off the Gucci runway.
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Em: In Febuary 2011, you were discovered when you were only thirteen [by Louisa Minckwitz at Louisa Models] at a skiing resort in Austria. If you could tell your younger self one piece of advice, what would you say? Barbara: I would maybe tell myself, that I don’t have to hurry anything, that great things take time. Before you were scouted, did you know anything about the fashion industry? How has growing up with your agency changed your childhood? I have always been interested in fashion, so yes I knew a little bit about it, but growing up in this business has sure made me more aware of style. Are there any models that you admire? Which industry figures would you love to work with one day? Kirstin Liljegren because she is a great Danish model, Kendall Jenner because of her nice style, and Kate Moss because she is an icon. I think almost any model wants to work with Karl Lagerfeld, but other than him I would generally love to work with all the really talented designers in this industry. I have already been so lucky to work with Alessandro Michele and see him make the most beautiful clothes etc. for Gucci. So to be so lucky to have that chance with another talented designer and to have the opportunity to work with Alessandro Michele again would be a dream. What was the most surreal moment of your career so far? The Gucci show, no doubt. I have never tried
anything like that. I couldn’t have dreamed of a better international debut. Are you a dreamer or a realist? Do you tend to be drawn more towards dreamers or realists? I think I am a little bit of both. I tend to like people who think they can change the world. Do you think the part of the fashion industry that you’ve encountered, as a whole, is composed more of dreamers or realists? I think that to design beautiful clothes you have to be a bit of a dreamer. Describe your perfect day: who would you be with? What would you do? A perfect day for me, would be hanging around in my hometown with my best friends. It’s that simple. You were a Gucci Exclusive this seasonwhat do you think the Gucci girl under Alessandro is like? Brave, urban, and happy. And who can be anything other than happy when you see all the beautiful designs and colors of his clothes. What are your perceptions of beauty? What makes a human beautiful? I think the most important thing is your personality, people with big smiles and big hearts are always beautiful. We’re a teen magazine, so lots of our readers are in your age group. Any advice/anything you want to say to the teens of the world? Your dream doesn’t have an expiration date. Take a deep breath and try again.
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Yana Dobroliubova
Interview
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Em talks to Yana Dobrolyubova, the Russian, bald headed, “cosmic” star about iconic models and support systems.
Hi Yana! How has fashion week been so far? - Everything is fine, it was my first fashion week and I really liked it. I did, in Milan, Fausto Puglisi, Emporio Armani, Philipp Plein and, in Paris, Yohji Yamamoto. What was the most exciting, surprising, or nerve racking experience? - The most exciting experience was on the show Philipp Plein. I closed this show- it was very unusual because the robots gave us bags and sunglasses. How do you relax between shows, or right before one? Do you get stressed out? - Before the show I usually read (Now I’m reading a book by Kuprin “Garnet Bracelet”) or listen to music (I like to listen to dubstep, & rock music always inspires me). Preparation for a show begins a few hours early but I do not get tired. Who are your role models, in the industry or otherwise? What, or who, do you try to emulate when you’re on the runway? - My favorite model is Kate Moss, I think she is perfect. I’m not trying to imitate someone, I want to be myself, the main thing is not to think about falling down. We heard that your favorite show is [Russian TV show] “Comedy Club” - can you tell us a joke? - The last show was about doctors consulting via Skype. A man suffering a stomach ache, decides to call such a doctor, once he begins to describe the symptoms the connection breaks, then trying to do it again and again, he feels worse and worse, finally the man gets so nervous that he breaks the computer and the doctor wonders if he is still alive. You have a very unique beauty that makes you stand out on the runway. You’re also seventeen,
so you’re in school. How did your classmates react to seeing you on the runway? What are you like at home? - My classmates are very happy for me, and it is very important that they support me because we are true friends. At home I always feel comfortable as I’ve got a very understanding, helpful and loving family. What’s the best lesson you’ve learned from modelling thus far? - I realized that in modelling you have to be prepared for anything, and the main thing is that you really like it with all its hardships, and realize that your task is to materialise an image that a designer’s created, but not only to show yourself. Do you think fashion is predominantly art or business? - I think that modelling is more an art than a business because, designers are artists and good modelling is a part of creating a masterpiece. What are your perceptions of beauty? What makes a human beautiful? - Well, maybe I’m not very original here, but I fully share an opinion of the famous Russian writer Anton Chekhov: in a man everything must be beautiful: his face, his clothes, his soul, his thoughts. We’re a teen magazine, so lots of our readers are in your age group. Any advice/anything you want to say to the teens of the world? - I want to say that if you are somehow different from others like me, for instance, do not give up, do not be afraid to show yourself , be confident and open your heart and mind for people and opportunities. Thanks so much, Yana! Good luck!
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Alice Metza
Interview Fresh of the the runway, ultra-cool L.A. girl Alice Metza talks to Em about psychics, lifestyle changes, and fears (or lack thereof).
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We heard you’re traveling the world right now. Where are you? NYC What’s the best vacation you’ve ever been on? Weekend in Milano for Prada Men’s Spring Collection 2016 If you could be anywhere in the world, where would you be? Who’d you be with? In NYC with Alex [Prado] which I am doing. While we’re on the topic of traveling, it seems like you were all over this season! 16 shows so far! What was that like? What was the most important lesson you’ve learned about modeling so far? Thanks, it was cool. Very fast. It’s highly demanding and lifestyle consuming. What about the most surprising one? Did you have any previous conceptions of modeling that were confirmed or denied? No surprises aside from the clothes you see. It’s always something new. What were you doing before you started modeling? Chilling in LA, passing out cards for a psychic reading place in Ktown. Doing art with my boyfriend and going to independent studies. If you could use your fame to advocate for one group’s freedom, who’s would it be for? Children used for organ harvesting and trafficking in third world countries. Our theme for issue 3 is adrenaline. What’s the scariest thing you’ve ever done? I’m not scared of anything! In emojis: what’s next for Alice Metza?
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Amalie and Cecilie Moosgaard
Interview Em talks to the bubbly teen twins from Denmark fresh off their (exclusive) Prada debut!
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Em: Hi Amalie! Hi Cecilie! Congrats on your first sea-
more excited to walk the show.
Twins: Thank youuuu
What was going through your heads as you walked
son!
You guys are twins - which one of you was born first?
down the runway?
We both do not think much whenever we are on the
Amalie was the first born but it is only with a 3 minute
runway and if we do, we seem to forget it whenever we
difference.
walk out backstage again! I [Cecilie] do not know why but I always feel like smiling whenever I walk out on the
What’s the one twin question you hear the most/are
runway.
Everytime somebody meets us they ask “How is it to
Amalie, what’s your favorite thing about Cecilie?
be a twin?” and “Do you know what is on each others
That she is always there whenever I need her!
most sick of?
minds?” We always have the same answer which is: We have never experienced not being twins, so being a twin
Cecilie, what’s your favorite thing about Amalie?
is the only thing we know...and no we do not know what
That we know everything about each other and that we
the other one thinks, we just finish each other’s sentenc-
often know what each other are thinking or feeling in
es because we know each other so well.
different situations just by creating eye contact.
Before you started modelling, what did you girls do
What are your perceptions of beauty? What makes a
We had a spare time job in our hometown and we still
For me [Amalie] it is definitely kindness! A person who
work there whenever we have the time. Our favorite
is kind and nice will always be beautiful no matter what,
thing to do in our spare time is of course to chill, be with
and I also believe that kindness will lead you the furthest
family and friends and then we are both very fond of
in life.
in your spare time?
human beautiful?
cooking and baking! We are actually often in charge of dinner at home which we very much like! It must be nice having someone to keep you company during fashion week. What was it like for each of you
We’re a teen magazine, so lots of our readers are in
your age group. Any advice/anything you want to say to the teens of the world?
Grab whatever chance you get and keep yourself busy-
to have your sister by your side?
you don’t wanna look back in 30 years and regret not
It is amazing! We both appreciate very much since fash-
taking chances.
ion week can get so hectic and lonely at the same time! It is very nice having someone you know well when running around big cities for castings and shows!
Last, but not least: what can we expect from the future with the Moosgard twins?
That’s a good question. We are both very grounded and You girls were both Prada exclusives - what was the
most exciting part of the process? What (or who)
humble so we take each day as it comes. Hopefully you will see a lot more from us in the future,
were you starstruck the most by?
but for the next week we will be catching up with some
The show itself was definitely the most exciting part! The
school work :))))
many hours that we were waiting at Prada made us even
Fashion Week Review
SS16 SHOWS Yeezy /
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Ohne Titel /
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Backstage @ Desigual /
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Babyghost /
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(Silly)ghost /
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Pyer Moss /
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Noon by Noor /
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Through A Smartphone / 67 Vivienne Tam /
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Yeezy SS/16
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On Wednesday 9/16, Kanye West presented his much buzzed about collection for Adidas at New York Fashion Week, and I was lucky enough to be one of the 200odd people in the audience. This year’s front row rivaled last years’, with new and old talent and fashion industry heavyweights perched up front, such as Lorde, Jaden Smith, Common, Seth Myers, Courtney Love, Debbie Harry, Helena Christensen, Riccardo Tisci, and not to mention almost every member of the Kardashian clan. The show itself was quite an affair, with a quasidrill sergeant calling out commands to the models and the debut of a new Kanye song. The clothes were presented in the form of a beautiful color palette on what was probably the most diverse cast of models of any show all week. While the clothing itself was simple, the focus seemed to be primarily on the spectacle of it all. After the show, a hubbub of celebrity schmoozing and socializing rose as all of the guests conversed and some celebrities popped backstage to congratulate the man of the hour. A few minutes later, Kanye emerged with Kim and made the rounds, hugging and kissing friends and supporters and accepting congratulations all around. Drake was also in attendance, though he evaded most audience members by watching the show from backstage. I, by chance, ran into him on the way out of the venue and can confirm that he is as kind and charming as his reputation claims. While most people laugh at the idea of Kanye democratizing fashion, it may not be so far from the truth. He owns up to his clear inspiration from designers like Helmut Lang and Rick Owens, and is making clothes that would appear far more to the masses than, say, Prada would. And even at the high projected price points of his Yeezus line, the cost is far less than that of a Prada coat. “My end goal ten years from now would be to have everything at a Zara level,” West has said. And even with the exclusivity of his show, the buzz around it has opened the concept of fashion to a far wider audience.
Teen Eye Magazine
Ohne Titel SS/16
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Rihanna famously sang in 2010, “I might be bad but I’m perfectly good at it... Chains and whips excite me.” At Ohne Titel SS16, chains were everywhere, but they were as BDSM as Rihanna is overplayed - not in the slightest. Alexa Adams and Flora Gill - who are both members of the CFDA - head up the house, and have a few signatures that make Ohne Titel’s collections so widely lusted over: sporty-chic silhouettes, tech-forward knitwear, and killer shoes. SS16 proved to be the trifecta - hitting all three of these categories with ease. Bhumika Arora, Kirstin Kragh Liljegren, Tiana Tolstoi, Dylan Xue and co. strutted on the geometric, windy runway in a mass of chiffon, draped viscose, and macrame chokers. It was almost like an arts and crafts project - one done very, very, well after years of studying and refining details (the asymmetry of a pointelle skirt! the bounce of leather fringe on a stiletto! a sexy vest - yes, that exists!) If the Ohne Titel girl went to a beach, it would be privately owned, and she’d show up swathed in an organza trench coat over her knit bikini, dripping in full duty metal fringe. Flip flops? Out of the question. The closest thing Gill and Adams showed was what they nicknamed a “sandal-heel” - leather heels knotted up in nooses wrapping around a stomping foot. So, yes - chains and nooses dotted the spring summer Ohne Titel show. But overall, it was as sweet as could be!
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Desigual SS16
Em explores the magical behind-the-scenes world of Desigual.
Teen Eye Magazine
Babyghost SS16
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Babyghost Text and images by Em.
Babyghost’s Joshua Hupper and Qiaoran Huang have always been able to draw beauty from terror. Their last collection, inspired by The Shining, was a panoply of twisted odes to the cult classic - Grady Twins on bomber jackets, and zippers to serve as hotel room keys. Their most recent collection hit you just a little bit harder - the prime motif was Death. Death isn’t exactly the idea that first comes to mind when one thinks of spring. No, we think of beginnings: flowers popping up, new flings, shaved legs under sundresses, the like. But Babyghost is not a brand that accepts the cliche. While others present gaudy roses and windswept hair, Hupper and Huang dig deep into the underbelly of the season, and pull out the unexpected and that’s exactly why the Spring Summer 2016 collection was a breath of fresh air. I learned from the last collection that nothing Babyghost shows can be completely appreciated in just one glance. Huang and Hupper are masters at detail - looking at their collection is almost like playing a game of hide and seek: you look carefully under what’s first noticeable, and that’s when you uncover what’s really special. Army green sandals, complete with perfectly frayed edges were encrusted with a single rhinestone; ivory rings had roaring lions embedded into them; tufts of featherlike yarn and circle studs rose from stilettos; black curlicues of lace sat primly on a mesh dress; an undone knit layer peeked shyly under a cotton skirt. But by far, the most eminently drawn upon detail was the poem: written by Clarence E. Flynn, entitled (what else?) Death. Flynn’s words were everywhere: embroidered on lace skirts or in a Disney font, scrawled on a seethrough chiffon jacket:
“Why do you fear me? I am your friend. I but guide trav’lers Rounding the bendLead them to freedom From time and age, Help them start writing On a new page....” The speaker, some sort of Grim Reaper figure, chides it’s readers. Death, he insists, is not the end: it’s a new beginning. In the Babyghost world, death and spring both bring about positive change. The masterminds behind this collection, on the other hand, certainly don’t need a new beginning, a turned page. They’re only getting better.
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(Silly)ghost
Because who said fashion had to be serious?
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Pyer Moss SS16
Text by Carson Gartner.
Kerry Jean Raymond’s show for Pyer Moss was one of the most talked about moments of fashion week. As soon as the lights went down, a screen lit up and footage of police brutality popped up on a projection screen at the front of the room. Videos of policemen attacking people of color was combined with snippets of interviews of people such as Usher Raymond and Robert Givhan. The (literally) brutally honest video was personal to Raymond, a victim of frisking and brutality, and it had done its job: an ominous mood set around the room. With everyone perched at the edge of their seats (and some models, like Abby Clee, even holding back tears), the presentation of the collection started. Models marched back and forth on the runway in sporty, strappy minimalist looks as graffiti artist Gregory Siff stood in the middle and mysteriously set to work on one model’s jacket. After each model had made his or her way around the runway, the final model’s jacket was revealed, spraypainted with the words “BREATHE BREATHE BREATHE,” referencing Eric Garner’s pleas as police took his life a little over one year ago. The Pyer Moss show is just one example of a movement towards fashion as a political statement. In the increasingly unstable political environment we find ourselves in today, designers are using their art to translate a message, one that is deeper than those of days past. Kerry Jean Raymond’s heavy show and important message got people talking - but will it keep them talking? We can only hope.
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starting in top L corner/clockwise: Imaxtree, Joshua LOTT/AFP/Getty Images, Joshua LOTT/AFP/Getty Images, AP Photo/Bryan R. Smith, Joshua LOTT/AFP/Getty Images, AP Photo/Bryan R. Smith, center: Imaxtree
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NOON BY NOOR SS16
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CONFESSION: When I was younger, I was obsessed with Disney Princesses. Seriously, obsessed. I owned every single Mermaidia, Fairytopia, Barbie and the (insert popular fable here) series that Mattel churned out. I drank in Ariel’s pink bowed dress and spun in the mirror waiting for my own fairy godmother’s magic wand to turn my RL Kids dress into a ball gown. Some odd eight or nine years later, I’ve outgrown magic wands and castles, but I’m still a sucker for those big princess gowns. Designers Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa of Noon by Noor, on the other hand, are much closer to the lifestyle I lusted over as a child: they hail from the Bahrain royal family. Their spring summer 2016 show, unsurprisingly, was as regal as any Disney animator’s studio fantasy - the adult version, of course. Even their backdrop was romantic. Just like on Rapunzel’s towers, vines creeped up an ivory wall. Soft lighting washed over the room as floaty music by The Misshapes played. The scene was set. Lights dimmed. Mingling audiences hushed. The press section was filled with electricity like a fox stalking it’s prey -lenses gripped, tripods angled, fingers alert. Everyone was prepared to enter a fantasy world. Noon by Noor did not disappoint.
If the SS16 show was from Disney, it would be one of the more modern movies, where, as tumblr user Rubynrags plotted out, the protagonist can’t sing in any of the musical numbers, until she finally figures out she can “rap like hell”. Sure, it had an abundance of gowns, but it was infused with a nonchalant, graphic side. Gems straight out of the Little Mermaid’s treasure trove sparkled, but only on the pockets of a navy overall dress or a coral (reef) red jumper. Tarzan’s leafy fronds made a punchy appearance on a cobalt sheath. Cinderella and Snow White’s animal friends flitted through a sweet-heart-necklined mini; Jasmine’s golden earrings seemed to be melted down and flecked through a floaty sheer gown; Jane’s safari aesthetic was alive and well in a striped, short sleeved trench coat, and frothy lavender and airy damask brocade ball gowns could’ve been pulled straight from a ballroom scene in, well, any of the Disney movies. Yes, the collection might’ve made Walt himself proud, but it was neither inspired by the franchise nor created for Disney’s target market. Maybe in a Buzzfeed remix, where the princesses are grown up, but certainly not for little girls: you can instead expect to see Noon by Noor’s golden oxfords and flirty, athleisure-chic two piece sets on street style bloggers everywhere. Bibbity Boppity Boo, readers, Noon by Noor is magic!
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The Collection: Through A Smartphone When a fellow runway goer’s hand blocks the runway, you have two options: miss the shot, or take advantage of the new frame. Em chose the latter.
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Vivienne Tam SS/16
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At Vivienne Tam SS16, the models seemed to be one big family. No, not the white cashmere wearing, golden retriever toting, stickfigure-stickers-on-the-back-of-the-SUV kind of family, but a sporty, androgynous one: each with hair slicked back, skin dotted with tattoos (probably stick and pokes), strong jawlines, and a uniform of pinstripes and bomber jackets. This family doesn’t value loyalty or communication but deep necklines, flirty hemlines, and graphics. They’re the real life, chic version of The Jetsons - futuristic, and everyone wants to be them. Of course, jealousy isn’t unwarranted. Tam’s collection was ultra cool and a refreshing step back from the cliches that have crept into many-a-show this fashion month. Yes, she focused on the 70’s, but not the omnipresent, floaty, romantic aspect. Tam looked back to teen skaters and surfers. She scattered holes in an otherwise luxurious army green coat. She dressed boys and girls alike in completely mesh muscle tanks. Heels were abandoned in favor of modern black and white espadrilles. The models, in short, were ready to move. But Tam’s collection should not be simplified to a revisioned 70’s alone. She looked to the 20’s and 30’s, specifically to Chinese dress of the time. Mahjong tiles and dragon decals added depth to the collection, showing Tam’s knack for fusing history and design. The collection culminated with a nod to the art deco movement. Tam used ruffles to add dimension to a strapless shirt and soften a checkered dress, and swirled bold lines across techno-mesh. If you want to get in on the family portrait, don’t worry. The collection will be out in stores soon - get ready to fake it till you make it.
For the past few months, historic houses have been shedding their designers like snakes shed their skin. Peter Dundas left Pucci, transferring to Roberto Cavalli, and Massimo Giorgetti took over. Alexander Wang ended his contract on Balenciaga, handing the reins to Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia. Raf Simons abruptly left Dior, and Alber Elbaz’s ongoing fourteen year contract at Lanvin was ended by it’s shareholder. Carmen Lima’s sketch of a musical chairs game captures the chaos that’s plaguing fashion houses. Now, readers, we have a challenge. How do you feel about this madness? Download this image off teeneyemagazine. com, fill it in how you see fit (are the designers in the middle of a raging war scene? Would a graphic collage best express this panic?), and either email us the final picture, or tag it to #teeneyecoloringbook on Twitter, Tumblr, or Instagram. We will feature our favorites in the next issue! Full rules on teeneyemagazine.com
Teen Eye Magazine
74
Ask The Industry Em returns to NYFW for her third edition of Ask The Industry. Her question this time? “WHAT’S YOUR GREATEST FEAR?” Want to hear (and see) more? Watch the video HERE.
“My biggest fear is not understanding what the question is!” [Laughs] - Alexa Chung, Villoid co-founder/author/ tv-presenter
Fashion
“My biggest fears are darkness and heights!” - Santa Strucko, model
“My biggest fear is to not have any fears!”
- Sita Abellan, DJ/ model
“My biggest fear is being late!” - Derek Blasberg, Editor-at-Large
“My biggest fear is to lose something that I really care about.” - Xiao Wen Ju, model
“My biggest fear would be to lose my son, you know, he came out of me and is part of me. I can’t imagine life without him!” - Karolina Kurkova, model
[Surrounded by screaming fans] “Oh god, my greatest fear is this!” - Alexander Wang, designer
“I’m not scared of anything.” - Alice Metza, model
Teen Eye Magazine
78
On the skirts
Text and images by Oona Kyung.
Culture
79
Rochester, New York
At the cornerstone of a city built on flora and remnants of historic flour mills, sits a backroom record shop; nestled between a bank and a dozen other small businesses. The front door, painted French Riviera blue, looks as if, even though it was touched-up only a few months ago, it still could use a fresh coat. Walking into Needle Drop Records, you immediately notice two things: the quaint size of the store and the eclectic content within it. You would think it was someone’s living room-- almost as though it were a museum of John Cusack’s apartment in High Fidelity. Needle Drop Records offers tokens of the underground music scene and other rarities you can’t find anywhere else. Essentially, they sell what corporate music chains won’t. A few weeks ago I bought a local band’s CD there that I had been meaning to pick up for ages (yes, CD’s are still cool). Consisting of 5 local college kids, they dub themselves SKIRTS. Hayden Ford, the front man, plays an old fender jaguar that imbricates qualities of a true 60’s surf rock group - like a hybrid cross between The Drums, a Burger Records band, and The Ramones. Though the city of Rochester is home to a multitude of bands, mostly wannabe neighborhood dad bands, SKIRTS is one of the more refined groups.
Teen Eye Magazine
Soon after my worthwhile purchase, via the pathetically off-trend social media platform Facebook, my friend Mira invited me to one of SKIRTS’ house shows. I had seen them live before at a local joint that was more of a social event than a concert, but this was my first time seeing them in a more community-focused setting and I had a feeling that I’d be gushing about them to anyone who cared to listen long after it was over. Three or four acts went up before SKIRTS finally took the “stage” (more like a carpet to divide the crowd from the band, disintegrating the commonly found imaginary barrier between artistry and admiration). They swiftly banged through a ten song set. At the hands of SKIRTS’ amplified electricity, the audience was captivated. Each song seemed to become my new favorite, only to be replaced by the next. Their set lasted no more than forty minutes, an ephemeral paradise of humming amps, that nearly saturated the room. It was like no other night. The ordinary lights of someone’s living room became strands that fanned around the room like clockwork. The gig was the product of rebellious teens on a budget - kids who wanted to taste the music scene but just couldn’t make the schlep down into NYC. We loved it.
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Culture
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“Had we ever needed to be anywhere else than at The Vineyard, the excuses to hang back would be rolling off our tongues. So beguiled by the slick plucks of humbucker pickups, I had hardly noticed the stench of our sweat. Up from my stomach to the top of my head, I was buzzing. I wanted more of the magic. The rush was indescribable, to deem it as adrenaline would be an understatement.” Had we been questioned by our parents when we finally departed from our hour long divine encounter, they might have suggested the use of certain illegal substances that night. But in our mini Utopia, the pure euphoric enchantment of something so natural was unstoppable. What we experienced that evening was otherworldly and incomparable to the adrenaline of any ordinary concert. For kids who merely have pocket change sitting in the back pocket of our hand-me-down jeans, this felt almost like thievery. I was one of about twenty, standing in a small room, listening to something SKIRTS had created, something they themselves developed and shared with us, fellow kids. To be completely fair, like most teenagers, I have no clue as to where I am heading, or what I’m even doing with my life. But I know that whatever I’m doing right now, I’m content - especially when I stay out until three in the morning to hang around Levi-clad musicians, completely aware that I have school the next day. Because even though it might not be the right choice for my wellness, I know it’s ultimately a choice I’ll regret only if I don’t do it. The benefits of being around people who appreciate you is far more rewarding than sleep has ever been anyways. And, admittedly, perhaps it’s a little dangerous too; surrounding myself with society’s counter-kids. Needless to say, inserting oneself in an adrenaline contingent environment is one that that allows for a multitude of other-worldly moments - among which begin by sifting through crates of new-wave records and local demo tapes. The thrill of music-roulette has a funny way of working in the buyer’s favor. Listen to more of Skirts’ music here.
I
Model Yanii Gough @ Major Models NY Photography Sara Zakrzewski Hair Jade Staton Makeup Tadatoshi Horikoshi Styled by Em Odesser Special thanks to Equalize Fitness Gym, Yonkers, NY
WANNA
MAKE YOU
SWEAT! Yanii G & Sara Z Work It (Out)
Opposite page: wess Gym, Yonkers, N Linie Back Zip Grey Sweatshirt This page: Katie Gallagher Red//Black Turtleneck Chikimiki Branna Sweater Tenky Tricolor Watch Mode Laboratory Pepper Shorts
Calvin Klein Modern Cotton Short (worn throughout) Berenik Silk Velour Dark Green Shorts
Linie Navy Cropped Knitted Sweater and Yellow Fitted Skirt Adidas Adissage Slides Black’d Black Leather Backpack Socks stylist’s own
Chikimiki Lucidia Sweater Mode Laboratory Clementine Pants Tenky Pacific Watch
Worn throughout: Experimental Jewellery Club Tiny Pearl Ear Cuff
Lina Michal Scatterdot Silk Dress and Scatterdot Silk Jersey Pants Katie Gallagher Ash Band Shirt
Opposite page: Lina Michal Melting Plaid Midi Skirt Black’d White Leather Mini Bag
Lina Michal Embroidered Slit Sleeve Dress
Heisel Dots Socks 3M Reflective Ultra-Lightweight Rain Coat
Huge thanks to Equalize Fitness Gym!
teeneyemagazine.com