Teen Eye Summer 2015: The Freedom Issue

TEEN EYE

SUMMER 15 THE FREEDOM ISSUE

1

Social Media Tumblr Facebook Twitter Instagram

2

Contact General Inquiries ... info@teeneyemagazine.com Editor-in-Chief ... zak@teeneyemagazine.com Art Editor ... kiannah@teeneyemagazine.com Design Editor ... joy@teeneyemagazine.com Fashion Editor ... e@teeneyemagazine.com Culture Editor ... beatrice@teeneyemagazine.com

3

Summer 2015 ART Exclusive photos and interview with dreamy photographer, Juliet Wolf.

How journals are finding their way into teens hands and how we’re using them to create.

20

Science and art have remained separate for eons. Now, Zak takes a look at a new development in experiential art.

Zak Cannon sits down with Aeon Fux, an enigmatic musical force from Washington, to discuss her life, influences, and future.

What is freedom to an artist in 2015?

8 DESIGN How design tactics are used to abuse the homeless populations in urban landscapes.

4

34

The EcoCapsule- an invention for the nomadic.

FASHION The rise of #FreeTheNipple and what it means to our generation.

How social media is impacting the modeling world- is this trend sacrificing quality for likes and followers?

48 38

Meet the new game-changers in fashion.

With exclusive portraits by Carmen Lima, we take a peak into the people who are changing the industry and art of fashion.

CULTURE Take a trip with Beatrice Bock into the forests, shores, and cities in Malayia.

One girl’s experience being sent to a camp for defying her family’s religion.

Elle Agawu explains what cultural appropriation, and why it’s defaming the cultures others steal from.

5

SEE EVEN MORE CONTENT ONLINE

TEENEYEMAGAZINE.COM

6

EDITOR’S LETTER

F

or the summer edition of Teen Eye, we had to ask ourselves what the epitome of summer is. School is out, beaches are swarmed, and the scent of sunscreen becomes familiar once again. So what defines the feeling of summer? We concluded with one single word: freedom.

editorial at the end of this edition.

Morgan looks absolutely gorgeous and I’m happy to say we’ve gotten to feature both a promising model and photographer, Shaye Babb.

In this edition, you’ll get to read about Aeon Fux (a musician I grew personally fond of) and her sick beats, the young gamechangers of the fashion community, the cities and shores of Malaysia, and get a peak into the journals of artists from all around the world. This edition of Teen Eye is truly spectacular.

I’m enormously proud of this issue and everyone who was involved.

From analyzing the freedoms we have both obtained and are still reaching for, from interviewing symbols of creative freedom, and to highlighting the oppression that still exists in our society- the people To everyone involved, especially involved in this magazine are do- my spectacular editors, Kiannah, ing amazing things.

Joy, Em, and Beatrice, thank you so much for taking this ride for me.

Em Odesser, my marvelous, su- Now onto the Autumn edition. Ha! perhuman Fashion Editor worked tirelessly to plan and orchestrate the Zak Cannon, 15 Editor-in-Chief

7

INTERVIEW Aeon Fux musician

In the 21st century, musicians have had a spike in creative and distributional freedom by being able to download software at the click of a mouse and share their tunes with millions in seconds. Zak Cannon sits down with Aeon Fux to discuss her world of creation, adoration of “creepy-crawlies”, and overcoming gender expectations.

M

usic used to be a small handful of predictable genres. In the early 2000s, there was Pop, Rock, Country, Folk, Electronic, Rap, Hip Hop, and of course Alternative. “Alternative” was the rock-inspired genre that hosted names like Fiona Apple, Florence and the Machine, and Vampire Weekend. Now, the genre of alternative has evolved into hundreds of mini-genres like folktronica, post-dubstep, and nintendocore.

Aeon Fux is riding the wave of new age definition by creating her own beats, writing her own lyrics, and independently publishing her own music online (under the genre “doom soul”). Elytra, the 23 year-old behind Aeon Fux, grew up surrounded by choir, flute sessions, and her middle school marching band in Washington. After acquiring a taste for metal, she decided she wanted to make music of her own. Drawing vocal inspiration from legends like Nina Simone, Ella Fitzgerald, and Edith Piaf, Aeon Fux created a very particular sound that has since reverberated with thousands of devoted listeners. She dazzled bloggers in 2013 after posting a solemn cover of “Two of Hearts” by Stacey Q, gaining over 100,000 notes on Tumblr and causing an influx of interest in her instrument of choice, the omnichord. In fact, so many bloggers asked about her captivating instrument, Olivia changed the name of her blog to “IT’S AN OMNICHORD”. People were clearly taken by Aeon Fux’s attire, mystery, and ultimately, her wicked beats.

I

n her latest release titled “Exuvium”, Elytra drones, “I’ve given up this body/To become something new/How long have I been dreaming/That I will turn into/Something so beautiful and strange/Something you can’t explain/Something without a name”. This idea of rebirth continues even into the name of the track- exuvium is the biological term used to describe the exoskeleton left behind after molting. But what does Aeon Fux have to shed?

“Navigating this space presenting as a woman, specifically a fat black one, has been very interesting. Image does play a huge part in music, though I don’t think it should take as much precedence as it does. I’ve found that I receive much more attention when prescribed to an image of hyperfemininity, and I think there’s a preconceived notion of ‘toughness’ surrounding me due to a lot of stereotypes about black women. I like to remind people that softness and sweetness can and should be associated with us. Some people don’t really take me seriously I think, because I’m perceived as a female solo artist.” Aeon Fux doesn’t only transcend 8

Aeon Fux at Lo-Fi, Seattle

ART

musical genre, she also defies gender stereotypes. But this shedding of expectation isn’t an easy one. “I’ve had guys send their numbers to my booking email because they ‘thought I was cute’ and it’s super silly! Like, this isn’t okcupid.” In an industry dominated by men, Aeon Fux refuses to be placed into a box that restricts her creative freedom.

Science has been a huge factor in the lyrical and instrumental composition of Aeon Fux’s tunes. “Science is a huge passion of mine, and I originally came to school to major in environmental studies with an emphasis is entomology and parasitology. I often feel like I can relate to organisms that might be considered ‘creepy-crawlies’ more than I can to people, and those themes are evident in my writing process.” Fux shares that her affinity to things that are a bit strange are rooted in her own expression. “I’ve recently come to define myself as non-binary, but I am read as cisgender and I still often present myself in a hyper-feminine fashion. For a long time I denied myself any form of expressing my gender in a way that was non-conforming out of fear, or thinking I ‘already have enough to deal with’, but I’ve learned that in expressing myself this way it doesn’t take away from who I am, it adds to it.”

9

A

eon Fux is rising through the tiers of the industry in a time when both massive musical freedom is allowed via the internet but restricted by corporate patronage.

“Being able to release music independently and having so much creative freedom has really shaped my overall introduction to the music industry. I started putting my music online because of the intense anxiety I experienced performing live, and it really helped! I’ve had a lot of fellow musicians express their anxieties about playing live and really the only way to get over it is practice. I don’t think I’d be booking shows if it wasn’t for my online presence.” Despite the ease of access technology has lent to musicians, there are still obstacles Generation X must overcome. “I think that DIY musicians and spaces are extremely cool and important, but it’s like, people don’t want to pay artists anymore. Artists have always relied on patronage and I feel like nowadays it’s painted as a privilege. Artists are required to be well versed in grant writing, and often have to ‘prove’ their worth before there is mention of getting paid. Like, yes the arts are our passion, but we’re also putting a lot of time, effort, and our own money into what we produce and I would like that to be recognized the way it is in other fields. There’s also such a huge disparity between artists who have ‘made it’ and those who haven’t. Like, what defines ‘making it’ and who is defining the worth of art?”

Aeon Fux represents the generation of change- the generation of freedom. She defines herself on her own terms and creates the music she wants to, unadulterated my labels and management. To conclude our interview, I asked Aeon Fux what she would say to young musicians wanting to make music of their own. “If you truly feel in your heart that you have something to offer to the world with your passion, never give up on it. There will be times when it feels like no one is listening, and you will question yourself. But remember that if you believe in yourself, there will always be someone in your corner rooting for you, and pushing you to continue. You won’t be a master of your craft immediately; that comes from hard work, time, and determination that only you can put in. Just stick with it and you will see results.”

See more of Aeon Fux’s work here

10

THE COLLISION OF ART & SCIENCE

by Zak Cannon

In recent years, we have seen an influx of technologies and scientific discoveries that continually expand our already vast knowledge of the universe. But now, artists are utilizing these breakthroughs to create things previously impossible-or even unfathomable.

A

rt and science. Even the words placed side by side look uncomfortable. Art is free-forming, lawless, and innately human. Science is rigid, exact, and objective. The pair have existed from the beginning of time, but always separately; always constructing new philosophies, influences, and ideas - acting on one another but functioning on entirely different wavelengths. Despite the two worlds’ perceived differences, artists from around the globe are tethering the two together to create phenomenal new experiments in contemporary art.

Ren Ri, an experimental artist from China, made a buzz in April by creating and altering dozens of beehives using the scientific concept of gravity. Ren placed a queen bee in the center of a translucent glass box, causing the worker bees to begin constructing a beehive around her. Every seven days (a reference to the biblical seven days of creation), the artist rotated the box, greatly disturbing the dynamics of the beehive and forcing the bees to alter their creation to fit the new orientation. By using the concept of gravity, Ri commented on human intervention into nature and conveyed a beautiful duality between outside forces and one’s own ambition. Without the archaic discovery of gravity, this work would have been impossible.

Courtesy of PearlLam Galleries

11

Courtesy of Hansmeyer / Dillenburger

3

-D printing, one of the newest advancements in technology, gives creators the ability to design a digital rendering of virtually any object and have the object created in a matter of a few hours. The technology seems almost god-like. Artists are using the idea to create fashion, furniture, jewelry, and...rooms? In a piece titled “Digital Grotesque” by Michael Hansmeyer and Benjamin Dillenburger, two Swiss architects from the Institute of Technology in Zurich, an entire room was created by printing individual fragments and piecing them together like a puzzle. Michael Hansmeyer commented on the scientific aspect of art by saying, “3D printing is exciting because it breaks one of the main tenets of modernism: serialized production, i.e. mass fabrication. Suddenly, printing 100 unique items costs little more than producing 100 of the same.

For the past 100 years, customized things have always been a luxury as they were expensive to produce. This no longer holds true. 3D printing will also be transformative because with [3-d printing], producing the most elaborate form conceivable costs no more than printing a plain box.

In the past, any sort of articulation was laborious to the point that ornament was even declared a crime. Ornament has now been freed of any social implications.” What Hansmeyer is saying is, extensively complex pieces of creation are now as cheap to construct as the most stripped-down version. Artistic creation is being freed from the grips of financial limitations.

12

Courtesy of Maciej Kulczynski

S

cience, like truly every branch of study, is highly connected to politics. At the 56th Venice Biennale, a major contemporary art exhibition in Venice, Pamela Rosenkranz debuted an eerie commentary on race. Stepping into the Swiss Pavilion, a viewer would walk down the hushed hallway to a viewing platform. Underneath, a vast flesh-toned pool sat illuminated by the sharp hiss of fluorescent lights. The peachy body of water matched the average skin tone of the European population by using chemicals, bacteria, and hormones like Neotene, Silicone, Evian, Viagra, Bionin, and Necrion. By using these chemical processes (and even emitting a smell of “fresh baby skin” throughout the space), Rosenkranz is making a statement about the Eurocentric world of art and culture.

Despite science and art’s obvious differences, both act and react on each other constantly, enacting great discoveries and timeless creations. Artists have always had the sciences to gain inspiration from, but our generation has the honour of growing up in a world where science and technology is giving artists the freedom to create pieces of art that would have been impossibleand even unfathomable- just twenty years ago. It’s exciting to see how emerging technologies influence the world of art and it’s even more exciting to imagine where it will take us.

Courtesy of Venezia Art Magazine

13

INTERVIEW JULIET WOLF

Intrigued by the natural landscapes in and around Los Angeles, Juliet Wolf explores mystical themes in a way that has dazzled thousands.

by Zak Cannon

Where are you from and where do you live now?

I am from Los Angeles, California, and I’ve lived here all my life!

How old are you?

I’m 15 years old.

When and how did you discover photography?

It started about four years ago, and I had been discovering a lot of new photography online, when I really wanted to know, “Could I really accomplish and create something like that?” I desperately wanted an outlet in which to express how I felt visually instead of verbally, and that helped me through some very tough times.

Where would you love to travel?

Next on my list is 100% Iceland in the spring. It is so stunning and would be very inspiring.

If you could have brunch with anyone, dead or alive, who would it be?

I would have brunch with Tavi Gevinson, she is the editor of Rookie Mag which is my favorite online feminist-oriented magazine. She is just out of high school and has already accomplished so much in her career.

A significant portion of your photography takes place outside, in nature. Do you feel safe in nature?

It’s less about feeling safe, it’s more about the challenge of finding an ethereal landscape in the vast city-scape of Los Angeles. I’m currently exploring the boundaries that I’ve set up for myself in conceptual photography by exploring 14

other styles such as fashion and traditional film.

Every one of your images features girls. Do you feel women fit better into your fantasy or do you prefer using the female form for another reason?

Solely referring to my conceptual photography, for so long what I strived to do was just to create something beautiful. I was familiar and comfortable with the female body, which allowed me to have control over every aspect of the photograph. I felt that if I could create something “beautiful”, I would feel beautiful myself, which for a long time was not the case.

Do you have a goal with your art? Is there a reaction you want from the viewer? A response? Or are you simply desiring something beautiful?

For years it was the simple desire to create something beautiful, but I’ve recently gotten to the point in which I want my work to have a cultural connection, and for it to have an emotional connection with the viewer.

What has it been like having such a massive following on Instagram? How has your life changed?

In all honesty, it really hasn’t changed my day to day life very much. The largest thing I’ve taken away from it though, is the support system and relationships that I’ve made. My friendships with Cammy(@trousseaux) and Jett (@ Jettsolana) have motivated me time and time again to continue shooting, and always create something new.

What would you like to say to young artists wanting to pursue photography?

I would say simply to start, and stop comparing your art to others. The times in my life in which I felt the most fulfilled were when I would appreciate my work simply for what it was, and that it was beautiful. The times that I felt I had accomplished the least were when I compared my work to others who were much farther along in their careers, and as a result my work suffered because I was trying to make something that I wasn’t ready for, and say things with my art that were not my words. My advice would be to keep pushing through, and creating more work, because that is going to be what gets you to where you want to be.

Has there ever been a time you felt your creative freedom was crushed or impeded?

I really haven’t felt that there was a time like this, as I’ve always been able to pursue whatever I’d like. Within my family and friends my art has always been accepted and appreciated, and I think that has helped me to build my self confidence greatly and to stop comparing myself to others.

The times in my life in which I felt the most fulfilled were when I would appreciate my work simply for what it is.

15

16

17

EDITOR’S NOTE

by Kiannah Zambrano For this edition of Teen Eye, I wanted to curate content that encompasses what it means to be young and creative in a world of chaos. I chose to feature journals from artists across the world because of the personal and intimate connection that one would have with their journal, with their body of work and their private thoughts. A journal is something so private, yet so relatable. A journal is one’s own reflection of oneself.

18

by Shabrina

by Joy La Jaxx 19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

Courtesy of Nice Architects

30

DESIGN MOBILE TRANQUILITY

by Joy Garese

“Freedom is what you do with what’s been done to you.”

– Jean-Paul Sartre

A

roof above the head is so exceptional; it provides us with security, a protection against cold, wind, snow, rain or heat. It makes us feel comfortable.

Most people don’t realize how lucky they are to have a roof above their head; it seems so natural to most of us, but others haven’t a clue what being underneath a roof feels like..

Nice Architects came up with an unusual idea. They created what they call an Ecocapsule, a capsule “dwelling with the spirit of freedom”.

Their aim is to offer a low energy house in a compacted volume offering such luxuries like a warm bed, running water and a hot meal.

All the energy used in the Ecocapsule is renewable. It functions with the help of a built-in turbine that is complemented with an array of solar cells. This dual power system ensures that you will not run out of energy even in times of reduced solar or wind activity. The shape of the capsule allows the collection of rainwater and dew, and the water filters that are built-in give you the ability to utilize any water source.

31

Designed & Funded TO HARASS

by Joy Garese

A disturbing trend has taken afoot in urban communities around the world: infrastructure is being designed to make life as difficult as possible for the homeless. And it needs to stop.

A

new concept is born: “hostile architecture”, also known as “defensive architecture”. The idea behind it is more important that the words used. It is a controversial architectural trend used by cities to discourage people to use a public place in a way different from its original purpose.

Society has always seemed to struggle with division, whether it is social, cultural, or generational. “Defensive architecture” mainly concerns social issues and even if less, economical as well.

The needs of different social classes sharing the same area may differ and most cities struggle to reunite them using a same area. A response found to this is an architectural concept that is changing the urban landscape.

Architects have been asked to modify buildings and public spaces in a way to discourage certain groups of people such as homeless peo32

ple or the younger generation (mostly skateboarders) from using them. One of the most common ideas used are“homeless spikes”: spikes on the ground preventing people from sleeping on the street.

The problem with this architecture is that it doesn’t only make one space hostile to some people, but it makes an entire city hostile to anyone wanting to live in or discover it. Another problem that could be raised is that this kind of architecture is only noticed by the people it is aimed to affect. This means that most of the population is not even aware of defensive architecture. Alex Andreou wrote in “The Guardian” something that couldn’t be more true; “It is a sort of unkindness that is considered, designed, approved, funded and made real with the explicit motive to exclude and harass.”

“It is a sort of unkindness that is considered, designed, approved, funded and made real with the explicit motive to exclude and harass.�

33

FASHION

MEET THE GAME-CHANGERS IN FASHION IN EVERY GENERATION, THERE ARE YOUNG CREATIVES WHO INSPIRE SOCIAL CHANGE, CHALLENGE SOCIETY’S PERCEPTIONS OF BEAUTY, AND CREATE SPACES WHERE THOSE THEIR AGE CAN EXPRESS THEMSELVES. THROUGH THEIR TIRELESS STRUGGLE, THESE TRAILBLAZERS HELP MAKE THE WORLD A BETTER PLACE. HERE ARE OUR PICKS FOR THE GAMECHANGERS WHO ARE CHANGING THE SOCIAL AND ARTISTIC LANDSCAPES OF FASHION. ILLUSTRATIONS BY CARMEN LIMA. TEXT BY EM ODESSER.

34

Most dream of going to a fashion show. It can take years of hard work and connections to even get close to attending one for a big house. But Tavi Gevinson went to her first just a year before her bat mitzvah. At the age of 12, she sat front row at Dior - a couture show, no less - after a personal invitation from Stephen Jones. She went for her blog, The Style Rookie, and wore a magnificently large lilac bow, one so big Grazia editors sitting behind her took to vent on the ubiquitous megaphone - Twitter. Tavi later wrote a post on her widely popular blog. Her insight? “If I wore leather and studs no one would complain, and I’m not sorry for bringing a bit of color into the room. Haters gonna hate” The magic didn’t stop there. After creating wonderfully unique and innovative outfits on The Style Rookie, Tavi ventured into feminism. Three years later, she presented a TED x Teens talk. Using Microsoft Paint slides to present her notes, she gave a truly insightful talk on what it means to be figuring it all out - and why it’s OK to somewhat ‘make things up as you go along’. (cont. on page 94) 35

It all started with (what else!) nosy paparazzi. Nosy paparazzi who snapped a shot of Jaden lounging in California, in a black dress and crocheted top. The internet reacted in all kinds of ways - some shaming him (one twitter user, @FiZaa1234567890 called him a “fucking homo prick”), others encouraging him (@ChrisCrocker tweeted “@officialjaden thank you so much for being an inspiration to youth by not abiding by society’s expectations. PS- love the dress”), others were simply confused. However, Jaden didn’t really seem to mind; he likes being comfortable, and dresses are comfortable, so why shouldn’t he be able to wear something that he feels good in? His only comment was “That Moment When Your Wearing A Dress With No Pants And You Swerve Way To Hard.”

Jaden indeed is “swerving too hard”. GQ recently named him one of the most stylish men alive (19 other celebrities were also named, including Kanye West, A$AP Rocky, and David Beckham.) His bold choices help defeat the gender norm and prove that clothes shouldn’t be limited to a specific gender.

36

The Louis Vuitton FW15 show was a beautiful hodgepodge of polar bear-esque coats, trunk bags, and industry legends. Surprisingly, the social media clamor wasn’t about the techno-chic accessories or a celebrity participant, but a newcomer: Fernanda Hin Lin Ly. The internet broke over the Australian model’s pastel pink hair (which was immediately likened to every sort of food: “bubble gum!”, “cotton candy!”, “rose!” “pepto!”, “strawberry!”, “watermelon!”). Teens love changing our identity and 18 year old Ly embodies the significant role hair can play in redefining a person. Quickly named best dressed at NYFW by The Cut, Ly is bringing Asian beauty to the forefront of western trends.

37

London-raised makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench’s first job was, literally, turning men into gods. As this was with male models, maybe it wouldn’t seem too hard, but Ffrench doesn’t do anything the simple way. With famed photographer Matthew Stone, she transformed the boys; they seemed to look as if their purple skin was completely covered in a layer of thick, peeling plaster. That shoot catapulted her career. She’s painted her way through iconic models - Larissa Hoffman, Natasha Poly, Guinevere Van Seenus - each look more daring than the next. On Van Seenus, a bright blue face is adorned with little fried eggs. For an Agi & Sam presentation, she made lego masks. She’s doodled hearts all over Avery Tharp, scrawled satanic text over Hedvig Palm’s (incredibly fit) stomach, and turned a Camper SS15 model into a living, breathing, cardboard man.

Ffrench’s looks are slightly esoteric. She smudges bright pink (change) lipstick on teeth. She gives glitter facials. (cont. on page 94) 38

Transgender model Hari Nef seems to be unstoppable. She’s a triple threat: acting in Anton Chekhov plays, opening shows for VFiles, and writing for Vice. While doing all this, she’s also beginning the taxing procedure of Hormone Replacement Therapy. A recent Columbia graduate, and the holder of the coveted #1 spot on Dazed Digital’s Readers 100, Hari is a modern pioneer. Her most recent, and exciting accomplishment? She was just signed globally to IMG models - the only trans model to ever accomplish that (while Valentijn De Hingh is also with IMG, she is only represented under the Paris team) On top of it all, Hari has a hugely popular tumblr, where she talks about her favorite models (just a few days ago, she posted “i stan for all #imggirls love yumi [lambert,] shoutout to kate [moss,] alek [wek,] lara [stone,] gemma [ward,] charlotte [free,] & xiao wen [ju]”) and gives advice to transitioning and trans teens. (cont. on page 94) 39

In our very first issue, our writer Eden named Lineisy Montero a breakout new girl, stating, “In every show cast by Ashley Brokaw, there is always that one standout girl who blows everyone away. This season, Lineisy was that girl.” We noticed Montero first after the Prada FW15 show. Amid pastel coats and long, two-toned gloves, every single model had a long, slinky, coifed ponytail. That is, except Lineisy. The Dominican stunner had a short, and totally chic mini-afro. Within a few hours, the internet was buzzing.

It seemed no one could wrap their head around her distinctive beauty.

In an industry where 80% of fashion week models are white, it can be hard finding diversity. As simple, and maybe surprising, as it may seem, Lineisy’s hair has started a huge ripple in the fashion world: it got everyone talking. Maybe diversity won’t be drastically achieved overnight, but the embracing of natural hair of MOC (models of color) is certainly a huge step in the right direction.

40

Josephine Skriver: once an IVF baby, now the fact of Zimmerman, represented by the Society and Elite, and a Victoria Screts angel. After Dolce & Gabbana’s international snafu, where they denigrated children born through in vitro fertilization, Skriver spoke out in a beautiful and touching video. “You get so many, like “she’s not made the natural way, she shouldn’t even be here” but I am not a science experiment. I am not synthetic. I am a real human being. I am just as real as you are,” she states.

An ambassador for the Outspoken Generation Program of the Family Equality Council, Josephine is working hard to bring awareness, advance equality, and help IVF children feel safe and supported.

41

#FreeTheNipple A movement has given birth to a very simple idea: women should be allowed to embrace their bodies. Ingrid Zhang takes a look at an element of our culture that has been banned for centuries: breasts.

by Ingrid Zhang

A

t any given beach today, one will find three types of people: men without a shirt on, men with a shirt on, and women with some form of breast coverage. Walking down the street, one sees men in thin t-shirts with visible nipples and women in thin t-shirts with hidden nipples.

The question we must ask ourselves is: why? What is so foul about women’s nipples that they must be concealed? The simple answer is nothing... nipples shouldn’t be cringed at; everyone is born with them, so everyone should be able show them as they desire.

The #freethenipple movement was initiated in late 2014 when gender equality activist and filmmaker Linda Esco released a 90 minute ‘Free the Nipple’ film, a powerful depiction of the future of gender equality. The movie and the movement are epitomized in Esco’s statement: “I should be the only one with the power to sexualize my own body.” Free the Nipple has quickly become a worldwide campaign, a trending hashtag, and a stepping stone towards achieving gender equality. It is not about burning bras. It is not, as critics charge, a “blessedly defunct and thoroughly ill-conceived social media campaign” , nor is it “Another Example Of Female Narcissism”.

The movement is about giving women the choice to ditch the bra, or ditch the top without judgment or shame. It is about showcasing the inherent sexism that continues to plague our world through an empowering, accessible lens. It is about demystifying the double standards that oppress women through sexualization while liberating men through their desexualization.

One of the biggest issues women battle in the gender equality war is their incessant sexualization; no matter what, there always seems to be people who degrade women by defining them not as human beings, but as mere sexual objects. This behavior specifically follows young girls around in comments on social media, catcalls on the street and everyday language. Provocative clothing is a constant justification for the labeling of girls as ‘sluts’, ‘whores’, ‘thots’, and so on. #Freethenipple combats this normalized projection of sexism by internationally challenging the stereotypes women are often confined to, and calling for the respect and acceptance of women regardless of their clothing. Women are entitled to respect regardless of their dress, and it is imperative to understand that #freethenipple is about instilling a new set of values and morals in a society that condemns confident women who feel comfortable and empowered in what they choose to wear. #freethenipple is a reminder that prejudice against women is unacceptable in any form.

42

E

very woman’s taste is different and it is important that we embrace and honor the variety.

I personally would not feel comfortable walking down the street topless, and that’s okay.

But, my friend who is confident enough to post an Instagram selfie with her nipple exposed deserves the same respect as I do. She certainly should not be degraded for her choice. This mutual respect extending deeper than our appearances is what #freethenipple is all about. Removing the censorship of women’s bodies is what #freethenipple is all about. And when embracing the underlying values that #freethenipple projects, we are a massive leap closer to achieving gender equality.

Jacquemus F/W 2015 backstage by Emma Le Doyen

Christopher Kane SS15 backstage by Jamike-Latif.

Alexander Mcqueen SS01, Hugo Philpott/ AFP/Getty Images 43

#F4F Followers For Fashion?

by Eden Pritikin

In this day and age, there is a new way of scouting models: Instagram. Major agencies like Ford, Elite, and IMG have taken to the social media outlet to find the next big thing in the fashion world.

Marc by Marc Jacobs uses the app to find its next campaign star with the hashtag #CastMeMarc. And it’s not surprising! Ask anyone in the industry - designers, agents, models, and they’ll gladly tell you their Instagram handle. Agencies have even started listing the number of followers each of their girls has on their websites. As the new age of social media continues to move upon us, we should be questioning how beneficial followers - on any social media outlet - truly are.

D

esigners love when their products are posted by models on instagram. One click of a button, and the product goes out to thousands of loyal fans, making the designer’s creations accessible to everyone. Some clients have even created a new requirement that models must have at least ten thousand followers to get booked for certain jobs. Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Hailey Baldwin, and other celebrity names are obvious choices for these jobs, as their followers number is in the millions.

Are these girls getting booked because they have so many followers? Or is that notion concealing the fact that the real reason these girls get booked is because of their name? Kendall Jenner, who has a whopping 27 million followers on Instagram, said in an interview that social media “is a made-up world” and that “it’s kind of sad”; yet her huge following and her famous name are the reason for her success as a model so far.

The problem with basing a model’s value on the number of followers they have is that it neglects a whole group of talented but non “insta-famous” models. For every celebrity-turned-model Kendall Jenner on the cover of Vogue China July 2015, by Mario Testino

44

Julia Nobis for i-D Summer 2014 by Willy Vanderperre

who generates mediocre work, there is a girl who is undiscovered, with maybe only a hundred followers, but incredible talented. By focusing on the number of a girl’s followers, the fashion industry is settling for decency.

Some of the best in the business today are those who work the hardest, choosing not to rest on their social media presence. Take Julia Nobis as an example. The only public account she has is a facebook, yet she is one of the most in-demand models working at the moment - open any magazine and you’ll see her, fronting ads for Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Prada. Girls like Julia Nobis do not need a large following because their talent alone is what makes them so special. If the fashion industry could recognize this type of talent and appreciate the hard work that goes with it, then the content level of magazines and campaigns could go above and beyond where is it right now.

Although social media plays a huge part in society today, the fashion industry needs to take a step back and realize that caring about a large following behind a model only hinders the progress of the business. Sure, the publicity generated from social media is great, but talent and hard work are still the key ingredients for exceptional content.

45

INTERVIEW Pooja Mor model

Em has a chat with rising supermodel Pooja Mor to discuss freedom, her newfound role in the world of modeling, and how a runway model prepares for a big show.

Our theme for this issue is freedom. If you could use your fame to advocate for one group’s’ freedom (or equality), whose would it be for?

PM: We are all different and have different characters & beliefs, so I think all groups should have the freedom to believe and practice their faiths.

What book do you wish you had written?

Harry Potter.

What are your perceptions of beauty? What makes a human beautiful?

I am going to say the most cliché line but it’s true!

“Beauty comes from within”, it’s your thoughts, behaviour, as well as how you are as a person.

and started working regularly, I was on a shoot with one of my friends, who is represented by Elite NYC. We were goofing around, and took a few behind the scenes pics, and that’s where Elite NYC first saw me and approached my mother agent, and now I’m here in NY. It must’ve been pretty big having your debut at such a big show {Louis Vuitton}. What was going through your head? What did you do to prepare yourself?

It was really a lifetime experience! We did the show at Mr Bob Hope’s house which was incredibly beautiful and had amazing view of the mountains and valley, I really had to focus straight while walking because i was so distracted by the view!! Nicholas’s collection was so beautiful, and the location just complimented the clothes so wonderfully.

Before you started modeling, you were studying to be an engineer. do you have any more hidden talents?

Yeah, I can dance :) Do you channel anyone when you’re on the runway?

How were you discovered?

No, when I’m on the runway, i just try to focus I was approached by someone to enter a com- and do my job well. Each garment is special, petition called Clean n Clear Fresh Face while I and its my job to do it justice by walking confiwas studying in my university and I ended up dently and elegantly as possible. winning the Ahmedabad regional finals. I was concentrating though on completing my studies Finish the sentence: by the end of this summer, first, so once I graduated, I decided to move to I want to ______: Delhi and give modeling a go. From there, my Go on a holiday. lovely agent Gunita saw a picture of mine in an online catalogue I shot, and scouted me from What emoji describes how you’re feeling right there, so I signed up with Anima Creatives in now?

March last year. Once I moved to Mumbai Smiley of course :) 46

Pooja Mor by David Urbanke

47

FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION THROUGH FASHION

by Sherah Ndjongo

C

lothing styles have always mimicked the prevailing attitudes of the time periods to which they belong. The medium of fashion has served as a tool to inspire, to make a memorable first impression, and even to represent social change. This last motive has been most evident over the last century through a sequence of vastly dissimilar decades. It has been recorded in various types of historical documents throughout the course of hundreds of years, but it was most apparent during the 20th century when each decade brought something new into the spotlight that made its fashion unforgettable and easily distinguishable from the rest.

The 1960s are remembered as a time of immense social change, where wearing clothes to showcase your freedom of expression was not only standard, but it was also a subtle method of rebellion and protesting to show your dissatisfaction with others constantly reminding you what you could and couldn’t do. Considering this, it’s no surprise that fashion during the ‘60s hardly had any limits. Designers chose to embark on a much more audacious and liberal route to fashion, leaving formal wear behind and opting for bold designs and colorful fabrics instead. The mod subculture, which revolved around London’s flourishing art, pop music, and fashion scene, focused primarily on alteration and innovation. The fashion of the mod subculture was drawn to anything slim fitting, placed an emphasis on bold geometric shapes, and was noted as the antithesis of the “poodle-skirt” fashion of the ‘50s. Color was also a crucial feature. The traditional neutral hues and

48

pastels of the 1950s were substituted with brighter hues. In contrast to fashion trends of the previous decade, these garments were mass-produced and affordable. The 1960s are also associated with the mini-skirt. Before then, skirts and dresses commonly rested at the knee or longer. The introduction of higher hemlines sparked major controversy and criticism, allowing mini-skirts to represent more than just a fashion milestone. They have been transformed into an icon of the generally accepted culture of rebellion amongst youth that branded the overall atmosphere of the 1960s. In short, young people were outright shunning the social standards, which was successfully indicated in their evolving fashion.

It’s safe to say that in the early 1970s fashion scene was very similar to 1969, just a tad more vibrant. How the dramatic ensembles of the 1960s were replaced by the flower power sets played a vital role in the peace movement in the ’70s. Towards the end of the 1960s, the hippie movement was at its peak. Many young people had become dissatisfied with the prevailing social values and often looked down on them as materialistic and two-dimensional. Consequently, they began embracing the values of peace, love, and freedom as an alternative way of living. The more people welcomed communal living and a nomadic lifestyle, the more they found themselves exploring Eastern religions and espousing a rebellious style of dress. As a result, a fashion revolution of new clothing styles and fabrics inspired by non-Western cultures, such as India and Africa gained momentum. Natural fabrics, tie-dye, and paisley prints were all the rage. It was a commonplace practice to handcraft your own clothes and accessories as beads and fringes were used to accessorize personal items. Bare feet or leather sandals were trademarks of hippie fashion while flowers and peace signs symbolized the movement and its ideology as a whole. The hippie movement also paved the way for other unique clothing styles. Denim jeans, a staple wardrobe item, were actually influenced by hippie fashion. Bell-bottoms and tie-dyed, painted, and marbled jeans surfaced soon after, and tunics and robes were worn with as much prevalence.

49

F

ashion took a sharp turn into the ’80s, when a preference for clothes with structure unfolded. Some fashion designers renounced history, others borrowed from it, and some attempted to find what the future holds. With the rise in professional women, power dressing was in the vanguard of fashion. Suits were seen as the new social wear and shoulder pads were essential in construction of a sharp silhouette. Oversized neon dresses and shirts produced from taffeta fabrics with bow detailing were accompanied with bold prints. Off the shoulder shirts, quarter length sleeves, crop tops, and sweaters tied on the waist were trends seen on a daily basis.

Tight leather pants, corduroy pants, and stonewashed jeans were widespread, as well. All in all, 1980s fashion can be commended for its creativity. However, as flower power was abandoned in favor of corporate power, this too dissolved into the ’90s when grunge began to rule and ripped jeans and plaid shirts took hold. Though fashion in the early 1990s was generally loose fitting and fluorescent, the rise of grunge into the mainstream sent teenagers scouring for flannel shirts and authentic hole-ridden jeans at thrift shops. Grunge fashion, which was responsible for the decline in the popularity of bright colors, was dominated by plaid flannel shirts, stonewashed blue jeans, and dark colors like maroon, indigo, forest green, and brown. Grunge fashion declared Doc Martens style shoes and boots as stylish, and popularized high top sneakers in red, indigo, forest green, and black. More importantly, it was a unisex phenomenon. Although the grunge look was considered “anti-fashion,” the fashion industry ironically turned the grunge look into a definite fashion style.

Gace Jones by Jean-Paul Goude 50

L7 at The Axiom in Houston, TX, by Ben DeSoto

There will always be freedom of expression through diverse fashion style in every decade, and over the next decade, it will be fascinating to see how fashion expands through influences provided by the digital age. Fashion exists to convey a personal perspective and opinion whether this may be a political standpoint, religious belief, or idiosyncratic idea. History has proven that fashion will never cease to behave as a social indicator of our times, taking note of the current attitude of our society. For instance, the fashion trends of previous decades exhibit not only the principles of social movement, but the constantly maturing fashion scene suggesting the aura and political stance of that age. These have lingered around the borders of society forever, tracing the boundaries of extremism and spanning the split between individual expression and a political sentiment. The interaction between social change and fashion can be identified firsthand today, whether you are eyeing standout outfits while walking through your neighborhood or exploring the street scene outside Fashion Week. It takes little effort to see how fashion influences every single one of us and how we can form our own senses of being with a combination of past and present trends.

Clothing and style still does and always will portray our personalities and preferences, and the way someone is dressed leaves clues about his or her persona. This is the beauty of fashion; no one is told what to wear, but we wear what we believe best captures our true characters instead. In this case, our circumstances or statuses in society are discounted. What matters most is that we are placed at an equal playing field to get noticed for our unique opinions and to have the freedom to express how we feel on the inside through what we wear on the outside.

51

5 questions with...

JESSICA MINKOFF Em popped by the Freedom Tower to ask Jessica Minkoff, Teen Vogue’s Senior Market and Accessories Editor, a lightning round of questions...…

What time did you wake up this morning?

6 AM. I wake up at 6 everyday.

What’s your shopping philosophy?

Never wait to buy something you really want. If you see it, you buy it!

What’s one thing you wish you knew on the first day of working in the fashion industry?

That I needed to prove that I was the hardest worker ever, because everyone in this industry is very competitive. In order to get to the top, you have to push through a lot of people.

What is the most important piece of advice you’ve ever received?

Stay in contact with every single person you meet! Be nice to everyone, because you never who when you’ll see them again.

Definitely to Paris!

52

What’s the most interesting place your job took you?

RACHEL JO SILVER ..then sat down with the social media director at Birchbox to talk about working in the fashion industry, skincare, and shopping.

What time did you wake up this morning?

Oh my god, ok, I’m gonna let you publish this... but I actually, this morning, woke up at 8, and I left my apartment at, like, 9:15 and was in a 10 am meeting. But it’s a Friday! {Leans in to mic} Normally I’m in my office at nine!

What’s your shopping philosophy?

The place I shop most for clothes is Zara, so what I do is I’ll order a bunch of things I might like, even if I’m not sure about it, and try them on at home, then send the rejects back. I think it’s a much less stressful way then shopping in the store. I’m like a try-on-at-home shopper!

What’s one thing you wish you knew on the first day of working in the fashion industry?

You walk into a place like Birchbox and everyone looks like they have they have it all together and secretly everyone has things they don’t know about! So you’ll walk in there, and you’ll see these women and their makeup looks perfect, and then you’ll talk to them and they’ll be like “i have no idea how to highlight”, or, “I have no idea how to layer lipstick”, or “I have no idea how to use lipliner”, so don’t be afraid to admit that you don’t know everything about fashion or you don’t know everything about beauty. You’ll make amazing friends by sharing tips and tricks with eachother, so don’t feel like you have to know everything about the subject matter on your first day.

What is the most important piece of advice you’ve ever received?

Skincare comes first. At the end of the day, you should always take care of your skin! It’s the only face you’re ever gonna have! Wash your face every night, find a serum and a moisturizer and a face wash that works great for you and just take care of your skin because no matter how great you are at makeup, if your skin doesn’t look beautiful and healthy, then you’re not gonna like the way you look.

What’s the most interesting place your job took you?

I have a dream job! I work with the most amazing, lovely people. Recently, we went to BeautyCon in Dallas and (as someone who’s been to London), I had so much fun at BeautyCon! I got to talk to people all day long, and I got to teach them about Birchbox and share my tips and tricks with them and that was like, my perfect day.

53

MORE THAN A FEELING THAT THE 70’S ARE BACK

by Carson Gartner

T

he 1970’s are often heralded as the most influential decade in style. If you look hard enough, you can find a seventies influence in almost any fashion collection. Trends ranged from carefree hippie garb to suede miniskirts to glam rock power ensembles inspired by the pop and rock icons of the decade. In the past couple of seasons, seventies style has had an enormous impact on designers from all the major fashion capitals. I rounded up some of my favorite trends and looks from recent seasons:

#1 Though Woodstock actually took place at the tail end of the 60s, the billowy silhouettes and seemingly carefree attitude carried on to the next decade. Woodstock produced multiple marked trends, such as the emergence of layering, peasant blouses, ponchos, floral patterns, and maxi dresses. Style icons included singers Stevie Nicks, Janis Joplin, and Jimi Hendrix. Chloe Spring 2015 and Fall 2015, Anna Sui Fall 2015, and Gucci Fall 2015 show strong Woodstock inspiration. This trend can be fashionable in moderation, but the second you’re completely dripping in brightly colored rags, it gets more than a little overwhelming. Here’s looking at you, Free People.

#2 The glamour look encapsulated trends such as mini skirts, go-go boots, and suede clothing.

Nicolas Ghesquiere used suede pants in his Spring 2015 collection for Louis Vuitton, and mini skirts were an overarching trend in his Fall 2015 collection for the house. Both Dior Couture Spring 2015 and Fall 2015 collections saw models donning thigh-high, multicolored rubber go-go boots.

Remember, a miniskirt here and a knee-high boot there is all you need – once you go overboard, you’ll look like an extra from an Austin Powers movie.

54

Chloe F/W 2015

Dior Haute Couture S/S 2015

WOODSTOCK

Anna Sui F/W 2015

GLAMOUR

Louis Vuitton S/S 2015

55

Louis Vuitton F/W 2015

56 Saint Laurent S/S 2015

GLAM ROCK

Anna SuiF/W Balmain F/W2015 2015

punk rock

Saint Laurent S/S 2015

#3 My personal favorite, the Glam Rock look was highly influenced by British pop and rock music artists, especially David Bowie and the emergence of his persona, Ziggy Stardust. Bowie brought androgyny to the forefront of fashion, blurring the line between menswear and womenswear.

Flared jumpsuits made an appearance at both Versace Spring 2015 Couture and Fall 2015 collections. Strong silhouettes at Balmain Fall 2015, tapered pants at Louis Vuitton Fall 2015, and androgynous suits at Haider Ackermann Fall 2015 and Lanvin Fall 2015 were also prominent.

Though Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2013 collection was an homage to artists of the 1980s, the collection displayed a solid glam rock influence, with one look directly referencing Ziggy Stardust.

As a die-hard David Bowie fan, I’m a bit biased, but I love the flamboyant and confident looks that allude to this era in fashion.

#4 The anti-establishment punk rock movement, and subsequent fashion trend, formed in response to the Glam Rock movement. Leather jackets became a widespread fashion trend, along with hot pants, and lots and lots more leather. Saint Laurent Spring 2015 epitomizes the Punk Rock trend, with form-fitting, short silhouettes and dark shades. Punk rock groups such as The Clash, The Sex Pistols, and The Ramones were key influences, along with female singers Joan Jett and Patti Smith.

Out of all the trends to come out of the 70s, this is perhaps the most enduring. Countless rock bands have adopted this look, and it has gone on to define not only a generation, but a timeless attitude of coolness. Too many people wear punk-inspired ensembles but forget to encapsulate that very attitude which runs in its DNA. Like many trends, you’ll need to personify this attitude to pull the look off.

57

THE NEW PUCCI

by Em Odesser

The Pucci girl is being redefined by the appointment of a new designer: Massimo Giorgetti. Will Massimo help the Pucci girl evolve into something greater? Or will he add years on her life and style?

I

’ve always said the Emilio Pucci girl is a world traveler. She’s constantly ready to go on an adventure - usually on some tropical vacation.

Dresses with only one color bore her. In the song Stuck On the Puzzle, Alex Turner sings, “Any man who wasn’t led away into the other room stood pretending/That something in your magnetism hadn’t just made him drop whoever’s hand it was that he was holding.”. His muse in this song probably wears Pucci. That’s just the aesthetic Peter Dundas injected in the brand, after seven years at the historic house.

This May, it was announced that Dundas would be leaving after his FW15 presentation, and that Massimo Giorgetti of MSGM fame would fill Dundas’ shoes. I was instantly intrigued.

Both have affinities for big bird-esque fur coats (Dundas’ is collarless and crimson, Giorgetti’s is carefully tailored and pepto-bismol pink), bright colors, and indie music. However, their similarities diverge when it comes to silhouettes. The asymmetrical, sharp, and androgynous shape Giorgetti favors is the antithesis of the quintessential Peter Dundas sexy, carefree, body hugging minidress. It’s safe to say the switch was eagerly anticipated; how would Giorgetti accommodate the Pucci girl?

June 18th was a big day. It was the unveiling of the first new Pucci collection. Massimo himself nicknamed it “The Pilot Episode.” No one knew exactly what to expect in this new chapter.

58

Ondria Hardin at Pucci A/W 2015 Photo: Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com

Hedvig Palm at MSGM AW15 Photo: Paolo Musa

The pilot episode, of course, is the first episode in a TV show. It’s a fresh start, something to set up rules for how the rest of the season will go down. At first, this seemed strange: Pucci has been around for sixty eight years. Wouldn’t the new collection just be a start of a new season?

The answer was no. Giorgetti completely reinvented the Emilio Pucci girl. She’s back from her vacation, and goes to literary bars instead of night clubs. No more sundresses and gladiators: Giorgetti’s girl wears kitten heels, fringed skirts, and a belted vest. It’s not exactly the typical, oozing with sex appeal look you’d expect from a Pucci collection. Miu Miu? Certainly. Gucci? If Alessandro Michele was in charge, no doubt. But you can hardly wear tweed pants to the Michelin-Star awarded restaurants Dundas’ muse favored. The sherbets and oranges are still there, but not in the same form. This time, the only splash of color to accompany the chic, wintery pastels is on the metallic toe of an oxford, or the feathers on a belt. It’s much more subtle, toned down. It’s like Giorgetti fast forwarded an odd twenty or so years, and now the Pucci girl is a grandma, albeit a stylish one. She takes risks, but it’s not in the shortness of her skirt, but in the amount of fabric draped over her plumed sandal. There’s no doubt the collection isn’t genius - but is it Pucci?

The next episode in the Pucci show will be eagerly awaited - the SS16 show. Only then can we truly determine how far Giorgetti will move away from the Pucci roots. Will he hold the show in the iconic Palazzo Serbelloni? Will he continue the librarian chic look, embrace psychedelic prints or surprise us even further?

Pucci Resort 2015 by Peter Dundas

Pucci Resort 2016 by Massimo Giorgetti

59

ANNA MALIKA: Combating Sex Trafficking One Runway at a Time

by Sherah Ndjongo

The fashion industry has become a strong supporter of philanthropic endeavors in recent years, and has always been a venue to help artists overcome adversity. Anna Malika is an inspiring example of a woman who used fashion to propel her life forward and, following her success, has decided to use her new influence to help others.

A

nna’s first collection, named ““Freedom is the New Beautiful”, debuted at New York Fashion Week last February and garnered massive attention. The collection is characterized with an eveningwear aesthetic, and a significant and meaningful aspect was pearl detailing. She used vibrant colors, butterfly and pearl accents, and flowing fabrics to symbolize the fact that former trafficking victims shouldn’t be defined by their past scars and that beauty is merely abstract. Her clothes were made with the intention to be stylish and modest, fostering the belief that women can still appear feminine, even if they prefer to be covered.

Anna has no formal fashion design training. Instead, her work is inspired by an astounding story of overcoming adversity. As a young girl, Anna Malika was abused both emotionally and physically by a family member following the divorce of her adoptive parents at the age of eight.

She soon faced exploitation once again as a teenager when an older coworker deceived her into participating in an explicit “art project.” It was later revealed that the older man sold numerous pornographic pictures of her and other young girls, an underestimated and unfortunately common form of sex trafficking. This traumatic experience sent her into a spiral of self-harm, drinking, and eating disorders in addition to adopting overwhelming feelings of being neglected and unwanted.

After entering a rehabilitation program through Mercy Ministries and enrolling in university to work toward a sociology degree with a concentration in criminology and pre-law, Anna Malika decided to devote her efforts to the fashion world.

Through a mentoring partnership with acclaimed clothing brand Elegantees, and a wellmatched partnership with the Nepali Rescue Project, Malika became immersed in clothing design.

Katie Martinez, a Fashion Institute of Technology graduate and Elegantees founder, took a personal interest. Plenty of hard work culminated in the hugely successful debut at New York Fashion Week.

Now that Anna has experienced success, she is committed to helping other women who have suffered from sexual exploitation and trafficking find better circumstances and achieve stability and independence. Her preferred form of aid is hiring those in need. By providing these women with jobs, she is providing trafficking victims with the gift of newfound confidence; she is fighting 60

against poverty, the primary factor that leads to abuse and exploitation. Proceeds from her collection are donated back into the employment program to generate even more job possibilities.

At the debut of her line, Ms. Malika explained the meaning of the name of her collection “Freedom is the New Beautiful.” “Freedom means letting go of defining myself off of my past. Fashion design is my way of expressing freedom, joy, and healing, while helping other women attain these things, as well.”

Anna sees the pearls, which were such an important part of her collection, as “symbolic to my story and life,” She believes they remind one that the stones “go through a process where they are ugly and dark...but with refining and restoration, they become what everyone knows them for and they shine.” By recognizing that giving back to those in need is the true reward of her fashion project, Anna Malika is changing public perceptions of the relationship between fashion and philanthropy, a heroic accomplishment by a rookie fashion designer that is hands down worthy of credit.

61

ASK THE INDUSTRY Em asks members of every corner of the industry a simple question: “what’s your favorite summer jam?”

62

CLICK HERE TO WATCH TAVI’S ANSWER. “MY FAVORITE SONG RIGHT NOW IS RAE SREMMURD (I HOPE I’M PRONOUNCING THAT RIGHT) - THROW SUM MO FEATURING NICKI MINAJ”

-Ezra Koenig Vampire Weekend

63

I LOVE THAT SONG SHAME BY ALL THE COLOURS, IT’S VERY BEACH-BOPPY -Christina Caradona Troprogue

I FEEL LIKE SUMMER TO ME IS KATY PERRY! YOU KNOW, BEACH BALLS, SHARKS, HOT CHEETOS, EVERYTHING! 64

-Amirah Kassem Flour Shop

I HAVE REALLY BAD TASTE IN MUSIC, SO I DON’T KNOW… LITERALLY, I’LL LISTEN TO WHATEVER ON THE RADIO. I’LL HEAR A COMMERCIAL AND I’LL BE LIKE “THIS IS AWESOME! -Eva Chen EDITOR-IN-CHIEF @ Lucky

HOOD GO CRAZY BY 2 CHAINZ! -Morgan Hollis Cover Star

!

T

65

Text by Beatrice Bock

FEATURED MALAYSIA

Photos by Dominic Yeong & ShonSern Hoh

M

alaysia is warm as it is mild. The weather is typically more predictable than the people here: either hot, or wet. Here, the sun never abandons you, as does the clouds. Tourists come here as birds migrate south for the winter, both well aware of what they will receive should they come: the sun, the warmth, the smiles, and the abundance of delicacies.

Kuala Lumpur raised me, with its proud, chrome buildings and gentle suburbs. Here, you are encouraged to be like the day: as mild as the mornings, as bright as the afternoons, as loud as the rush hours, and as graceful as twilight. You get to choose if you like the rush and buzz of the city life, or the lazy suburbs.

When you feel as though you have explored every nook and corner of the city, and bored of its surprises, you are allowed to escape. Sometimes we grow sick of the malls and the cafĂŠs, of the stifling population and stuffed highways. When that happens, we either head up to the mountains, or down towards the sea.

The highlands will always feel like home. Maybe because the peninsular is born of the spine of mountains, maybe because we have grown too used to air conditioning. About two hours’ drive from the city, Cameron Highland is always waiting. You know you are there when the tea farms swell like huge green tides, the air they create wrapping itself around you like a cold shower. You are expected to be sluggish, lazy.

Just when you think you might move to the Malaysian highlands, a sight of the coastline will change your mind. The sun and salt will try to snatch the life out of your skin and hair, but the bright colours of the sky and sea will help you realize that perhaps, before arriving, you have been dead for a while.

In Malaysia, everywhere you go is beautiful. If you did not think so, allow it time, and it will teach you to see its beauty. In Malaysia, everyone is a work of art. We help you open your heart to see it, if you would let us. In Malaysia, you can choose to be everything you want to be, if you are brave enough. In Malaysia, being yourself takes great courage. Our land, our society, our skies and seas will teach you how.

66

CULTURE A nice glass of iced Teh Tarik, a kind of milk tea, is one of the greatest pleasures for when the heat and the humidity gets unbearable. The literal translation for The Tarik is “pulled tea”, because of the “pulling” action the drink makers do while preparing the drink – pouring the tea from one cup to another, with each cup held in the maker’s extended two hands.

The gleaming towers of Malaysia, named the Twin Towers, flanked by office buildings and hotels, stands tall and proud in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia. The nation’s pride and joy features one of the most exclusive shopping malls in the entirety of Malaysia, and home to some of the biggest companies.

67

Lanterns contrast against the blue skies all-year round.

Petaling street is a little like the Newbury Street of Kuala Lumpur. Take a stroll through one of the most popular shopping streets in Kuala Lumpur and witness for yourself how difficult it is to resist spending money here. You will always be hungry, and you will always find something you feel you need. Blessed with amazing street food and ridiculous steals, the buildings may be stuck in the 60s, but the atmosphere and products are timeless.

68

Child of the city, borne of the green. The air smelling of tea and dew, Cameron Highlands is the home to some of the nation’s crop yield. The mountains and valleys are a favourite escape during the hotter seasons – we flee the hot kind of humid in favour of the chilly kind of humid.

Malaysians love the beach.

As most of the population are stuck inland, beaches and the sea are a welcome variation to the view. Most of our waters remain blue, the hues as warm as the gentle breezes that caress you should you go near.

69

WHAT IS FREEDOM? The Teen Eye editors, along with other teens from around the world, share what freedom means to them.

“To me freedom is something very simple, freedom is finding time to do the things you want to do. That’s it.”

Dominic, 18 “What freedom means to me is the ability to do what I want, when I want and how I want to do it. Freedom to me is having a choice. Having the choice to use my voice. Having the choice to wear what I want to wear. Knowing that I can go and make my own decisions and live my own life.”

Alice, 19 “Freedom to me is like doing anything legal without being shouted at” Kendrick, 17 “For me, freedom is not being restricted to do something I want, having the right to make choices and decisions for myself without permission. Freedom is being able to have a voice and let it be heard. Like being yourself, take risks and sharing opinions. ‘I would rather die of passion than of boredom’” Julia, 16 “Freedom is a choice for us to either be a civilized person or a savage animal.“ Luke, 19 “Freedom is being able to enjoy life the way you want to without fear of persecution. We often overlook our own freedom- being able to read what we want, say how we feel, and create as we please is something that millions cannot even begin to relate to.”

Zak, 16, Editor-In-Chief.

“For me freedom is having no limits mentally or physically. It is a state of mind, a careless state, when you see the world as your playground, enjoying every bit of it and when others, their opinions or the society don’t matter anymore” Joy, 17, Design Editor.

“Being completely uninhibited! Doing what you want, when you want it, with who you want to do it with” Em, 15, Fashion Editor.

“Curiosity is a kind of freedom. A freedom that desperately needs to be supported by the freedom to feed it.”

Beatrice, 18, Culture Editor.

“Freedom to me is being able to express yourself and not feel inhibitions or limits. Freedom to me is the truest and purest form of artistic expression without censorship.”

Kiannah, 13, Art Editor

70

FIRST TASTE OF FREEDOM

by Carson Gartner.

F

or my entire life, I knew these moments would come: opening my college acceptance letter, stepping across the stage and accepting my diploma, leaving home and moving far away. Yes, I always knew that these things were coming, in five years, one year, six months. But until recently, I thought of growing up and moving out as an abstract concept. Now that I’m faced with the inevitable I’m faced with my greatest challenge yet: navigating semi-adulthood and managing my newfound freedom.

To me, freedom means liberating myself and experiencing independence, deciding where I want to go and when, and setting and enforcing limits on myself. I got a taste of this freedom last summer, when I spent three weeks in Paris taking art classes. The program I was enrolled in set a few rules:: go to class, don’t let visitors in your room after hours, and be back for curfew at midnight. Other than those basic guidelines, I was free! For the first time in my life, I had an entire city to explore without my parents looking over my shoulder. Those three weeks were some of the best of my life, but by the time they had passed, I was ready to go back home and once again enter my comfort zone. This, I believe, is one of the greatest challenges I face with the prospect of freedom: embracing the unfamiliar. All of a sudden, I have the opportunity to do and see these amazing, unfamiliar things. That’s the wonderful and equally frightening thing about freedom: you have the opportunity to push your boundaries and discover things you never knew about yourself.

Too many people attempt to reach freedom the wrong way. Freedom isn’t meant to be abused.

When one has independence, they have the opportunity to learn new things about the world and about yourself.. So many young adults leave home and can’t handle the freedom they’re given.

Countless alumni of my former high school have died less than a year after graduating from easily avoidable causes: drug overdoses, alcohol poisoning, and fatally driving while intoxicated.

Freedom is a volatile commodity, to be used with diligence and care. This is why freedom is so often granted only after a person has lived and experienced enough to make responsible decisions.

Because, though freedom can lead to excitement and adventure, it begets responsibility. Neither can exist without the other.

In the fall I will be starting college at New York University in New York City, and though I understand that countless new and exciting adventures await me, the prospect of freedom and responsibility leaves me with trepidation. I have to remind myself that it’s natural to feel fear before a big adventure like this one, and I hope that by this time next year I can laugh at how unsure I was about the future. After all, progress and success cannot come to those who sit idle in their comfort zones.

71

WHAT IS CULTURAL APPROPRIATION?

By Elle Agawu

C

esar Chavez, a former Hispanic Civil Rights’ activist, once said that we, as students and fellow human beings, need to help each other preserve the cultural diversity that is feeding our nation and making it strong and successful. He basically meant that our country thrives on difference and that we should make it a point and a mission to actively try and ensure that the cultural aspect of the population is maintained. Unfortunately, in today’s society, many major cultural groups are taking ideas, traditions, and basic ways of life from other smaller cultures, and claiming it as their own. This is a kind of monopolization on culture known as cultural appropriation. Cultural appropriation usually involves the exploitation of minority groups’ culture, typically with no experience, knowledge, or effort to educate oneself of the minority’s history, traditions, and overall ways of life. Most of us have seen this, although we might not have known what it was at the time. A prime example is around the Halloween season, where we often see costumes of racial/minority groups sexually portrayed in a costume, like a “Sexy Indian”, or, worse still, when parties are held encouraging people to dress up as a certain stereotype of a racial or ethnic group, such as donning blackface. Some people/organizations say that this is a type of compliment: majority groups are so interested in a particular cultural society that they try and imitate certain aspects of it. However, many ethnic minority groups are greatly offended by it, saying that it’s like their culture is being mocked, and that sensitive and sacred ideas are being exploited for other people’s entertainment. The question is, why is cultural appropriation wrong?

Cultural appropriation is, in a nutshell, ethnic plagiarism. When you take something from something else and make an inaccurate, uninformed version of it, it lowers the aesthetic value of the original thing. For instance, the traditional war bonnet worn carelessly by many females of the white community spurred a huge controversy when many American Indian elders saw posts of the girls on social media sites, and took offense upon seeing its new nickname, the “hipster headdress”.

This debate on whether or not the generic wearing of this iconic native American headpiece was acceptable showed up all over the Internet, from a Cosmopolitan article, to blogs and online news sources. nativeappropriations.com says that the war bonnets actually hold deep spiritual meaning, and that to wear it out of context only encourages negative American Indian connotations. They discourage the inappropriate wearing of the sacred headdress, excluding the instances of traditional ceremonies. They even compared it to wearing blackface, saying that it was just as offensive and mocking as painting your face black to imitate a black person.

However, as there are two sides to every controversy, not everybody believes that the allocation of certain cultural aspects is unacceptable. There are some who believe that there is nothing wrong with this, and that it’s perfectly okay to take parts of others’ ways of life and make it their own with little to no understanding of it; in fact, it’s not only something that is okay, but something that 72

should be taken as a compliment. John McWhorter, a writer for Thedailybeast.com, defends cultural appropriation wholeheartedly in an online article, arguing that it is simply in a human’s nature to see something they like, and copy it. He writes in his article, titled “You Can’t ‘Steal’ a Culture: In Defense of Cultural Appropriation”, “If one is seen, and seen in an approving light, one will be imitated. This is what human beings do. The very faculty of language is, to a large extent, a matter of imitation. The idea that when we imitate something we are seeking to replace it rather than join it is weak.” McWhorter’s belief is that if people find your culture interesting enough to copy it, it should be taken as a compliment. Many others don’t share this opinion, but his approach is a logical one that is simply based off of how human beings behave. He backs up his defense by adding that many great things in history were stolen from others, (i.e, Elvis Presley “stealing” rock n’ roll), even going on to say that even ancient civilizations in Africa were marginally dependent on other tribes’ cultures.

What many people fail to realize is that appropriation has its consequences. In a world of difference, extreme variety and ethnic diversity, what makes us different is what makes our world so beautiful. Getting rid of the diversity will make our exotic world plainer and less spectacular. This planet has some amazing things on it. As starstruck as people might be with cultural ideas, items and ceremonies, trying to recreate it is a bad idea for this simple reason: Some things are just not as good as the original. Taking these genuine, indigenous attributes and attempting to imitate them with no knowledge of their significance can only result in an insincere, generic copy that isn’t at all the real thing. This is why cultural appropriation is a real threat to our society as a whole.

If we truly want to preserve the culture of minority/ethnic groups, then we have to recognize what appropriation is, and know how it harms others in our communities. We need to, as a collective population, make an effort to ensure that we aren’t harming other cultures, and that we’re informed of ours. Steve Barry said, “A concerted effort to preserve our heritage is a vital link to our cultural, educational, aesthetic, inspirational, and economic legacies - all of the things that quite literally make us who we are.” These wise words sum up the debate on cultural appropriation.

73

Text & Photos by Anastasia Vartanian

FEATURED GREECE

At the end of May, I embarked on a trip centered around Athens and the Peloponnese, a traditional region in the South of Greece, separated from the central part of the country by the Gulf of Corinth – not that this will mean much to many of you. It was a school trip – glamorous, I know – hence the lack of freedom to do and see whatever I pleased. I went mainly with the incentive of spending time with my friends in another country. And who would pass up a holiday in Greece, regardless of the short stay and abundance of ruins they had planned for us to look at?

Despite the unsavory conditions of the holiday, the experience caused me to fall in love with Greece – or at least mainland Greece, because the islands of Corfu and Crete have always had a fond place in my heart.

Although many people find them a nuisance, I think red-eye (overnight) flights are the best way to get to any foreign country. There’s just something so exciting and unnerving about arriving in a city at night, when the cars on the road are scarce and everything is silent. Maybe it’s just a personal thing, but I love the eerie sense of anticipation it gives for the holiday ahead. You’re on holiday, but it doesn’t feel real yet: like you’re in a time bubble. Another benefit of arriving in a country in the early hours of the morning? Sunrise walks on the beach. Which is exactly what we did. The sky was ethereal, and the photographs we took: No filter required.

Poros, I am convinced, is one of the most photogenic places on earth. It is one of those typically Greek islands, with countless whitewashed stone houses seemingly stacked on top of each other. We took the long coach ride to Troezen, a small town on the coast, from where we took a boat to the island. The main aim of the journey was to visit a monastery on the island, but of course, my favourite bit was the beach. The town was a maze of narrow cobbled streets, hues of pink, blue, yellow and every shade of white, with plants decorating every balcony. I would have given anything to explore it further; to rent an apartment and spend a week exploring it and its surrounding islands. We found a restaurant with a balcony overlooking the island. It wasn’t a trendy London café, but the food was good and the restaurant’s owner let us play with her dogs.

So I was happy.

74

Another day, we visited Nafplio: equally colourful and flora-filled. Again, our main aim was to attend mass at a church, perched on top of a large, stone structure – so it wasn’t so bad, giving a view of the scenic town. But the weather had it out for us. We were caught in a storm, leaving us unable to exit the church, for fear of being soaked to the bone. Once the storm became a little more forgiving, we ran for it, frantically searching for a restaurant to hide out in, slipping in the stone streets, slick with rain. It could have been a scene from Eat Pray Love.

Greek insights: One thing I noticed, is that Greek people are very friendly and welcoming. It may just be a tactic on the part of the restaurant and shop owners, but it works, and certainly makes everything a lot more enjoyable. Secondly, at almost every Greek restaurant, they’ll serve you complimentary bread that you can dip into olive oil. Eat it. Honestly; your taste buds will thank you. Thirdly, if you’re vegetarian or vegan: order Gemista. These peppers and tomatoes stuffed with rice are so, so good and available in pretty much every restaurant with traditional Greek food.

Unfortunately, I can’t give any special insights into the public travel of Greece, as the extent of our means of travel were a coach, a boat to and from the islands of Poros, and at one point, a cable car to the top of Alsos Lykavittou: a point in Athens from which you can see the whole city.

In theory? Spectacular. In reality? A little overrated. One thing I did enjoy in Athens was the Flea Market. But then again, markets everywhere just call out to me.

75

Of course, we also visited countless dusty ruins and monuments. Although I understand that each of these great architectural feats has its own vast and incredible history, once you’ve seen one of them, you’ve seen them all. Or at least that’s the opinion I cling to. Do yourself a favour: if you visit Athens, go to the Acropolis and perhaps its museum, even if just for the view and many photo ops. But let that be it. Don’t bother visiting the plethora of ancient architecture that Greece has to offer. Because, again, as astounding as it may seem in theory, in reality it just gets very, very repetitive.

Advice I can give is to not over-book your holiday. You may think, whilst planning your vacation, that it’s best to see as much as you can; squeeze everything into your visit. Although a jam-packed schedule may look enticing, it turns out to be very draining. Instead, I wouldn’t worry as much about the tourist-y stuff. Maybe see a handful of the most iconic attractions. But apart from that, just leave your schedule open. Allow yourself to get lost in Athens, Poros, Nafplio or any town of your choice. Stumble across cafés, markets and unique shops. Laze on the beach. I’ll keep this in mind when exploring European cities as a gap-year student. I’ll definitely come back to Greece, with a couple of friends, and do just that.

76

77

A TRIP TO THE BOARDWALK MORGAN HOLLIS (19) AND SHAYE BABB (19) TRAVEL DOWN TO THE SUNNY CONEY ISLAND TO SHOOT THE HOTTEST SUMMER TRENDS. STYLING & DIRECTION: EM ODESSER (15) MAKEUP: HORIKOSHI TADATOSHI HAIR: KENTA KODA ASSISTANT: CASEY O. 78

CARLEEN PLEAT MIDI DRESS JULIA SKERGETH WHITE PLATFORM ESPADRILLES (WORN THROUGHOUT) EXPERIMENTAL JEWELRY CLUB GOLD PEARL TRIO EAR JACKET EARRINGS (WORN THROUGHOUT)

79

AMERICAN DEADSTOCK VINTAGE VARSITY MUSE HALTER TOP REDFORD SUNGLASSES TEARS MACHINE VINTAGE 90’S GUESS HIGH-WAISTED SKIRT STYLIST’S OWN: NEW ORDER PIN, HAIKU AND 80 HOLGA OCTOPUS PIN & UFO PIN

81 CHIKIMIKI BEA DRESS

82

NATALIE RAE GWYN TOP ESTUARIES NY ORE CAPRI BIKINI TOP & BOTTOM TEARS MACHINE 80’S ADIDAS WINDBREAKER 83 PANTS

84 CHIKIMIKI BEA DRESS

TOP: DAHUI LI JADE MULTILAYER DRESS BOTTOM: CARLEEN PLEAT MIDI DRESS NOT PICTURED: GREEK SANDLE SHOP LEATHER GLADIATOR SANDALS

85

86 DAHUI LI JADE MULTILAYER DRESS

87

TOP: NATALIE RAE GWYN TOP AND SIANI DRESS BOTTOM AND FOLLOWING PAGE: RICHARDS ORCA PRINT JACKET DAHUI LI WHITE SKORT 88

89

90

91

92

OPPOSITE PAGE: PAULA ROSINE SMASHER RING ILKE COP X AVALANCHE BAGS PREMIUM EDITION BAG NATALIE RAE SIANI DRESS THIS PAGE: CARLEEN FRINGE EMROIDERED TOP AND WHITE SHIRT SPECIAL THANKS TO ARTS HOUSE DANCE STUDIO 93

CONTINUE READING...

Gamechangers Tavi

She then created her own magazine - Rookie. Have you ever pulled an all nighter at a sleepover with your heads pressed against your closest friends, talking about everything from what your purpose in the world is, to who the people you really trust are, to what the weird stain on the side of the wall looks like? Do you get that warm feeling in your chest that’s almost saying, “yes! I’m with the right people and life is good and happy and safe!”? If you’ve experienced this, you know the community that Rookie hosts. As I google it now, here are the articles that come up: “How to Get Out of Your Head”, “What’s Your Look? Mine include “Björk’s sad assistant” and “rabbit-filled sack”, and “How to Hook Up With A Friend.” Tavi still edits the website and magazine, and every year, she publishes her favorite articles. There’s nothing off limits, and that’s what makes it so damm cool.

Rookie is like your cool older sister who answers your questions without judgement. Since then, she’s starred in a Broadway show, landed the cover of New York Magazine, and published three books. Oh, and she hasn’t even reached the legal drinking age.

Isamaya

She recently told Teen Vogue, “It doesn’t matter if your makeup gets smudged. Nothing has to be perfect. Be carefree and just doodle. When you do a crazy-colorful eye, the messier it gets, the cooler it is.”

94

Hari

A blogger recently asked Hari, “So I’m a 16 year old trans girl and you literally give me so much hope that a trans girl doesn’t need to look like Carmen Carrera to be successful and beautiful”.

Hari’s response was touching: “All trans girls are beautiful. [You know why? Because] beauty is about ownership not aesthetics. Nef’s trailblazing activities are not only keeping her busy but also providing inspiration and opening doors for other trans kids throughout the world.

MARKETPLACE Where Teen Eye compiles it’s favorite products from this season. Check it out!

Vintage Rodenstock sunglasses $39.83

Vintage floral dress $39.83

Vintage wooden necklace $20.48

Vintage diamond blouse $20.48

Vintage embroidered handbag $22.76

95

96

teeneyemagazine.com