Tekstil Teknik Nisan'14 by Tekstil Teknik

ISSN 1300-9982

196696 / 2014 - 04

APRIL 2014

YIL YEAR 30

ISSUE 351

www.tekstilteknik.com.tr

We are together with you for 30 years

YIL | YEAR : 30 - SAYI | ISSUE : 351

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Editor-in-Chief

Editorial Board Chief

65 111 ATAÇ

31-59 25 22-23

DEMAS DEMSAN

73 71

18-19 DURST

39 26-27 93-105 7

ER-SER

79 77 57 115

29 127 83 133 131 101 87 95 125 121 103 69 98-99

13-15 61 63

85 SSM

51 5

SWISSMEM

35-37 33 108-109 67-75 91 117

89 USTER

Texpo Eurasia and Thread Fair

As if it has been in the past, textile sector maintains its importance today for all countries both developed and developing countries and also it will save it in the future. The “novelty” is needed for today’s market conditions in which a diverse range of has been raised, competition is created and the borders have been removed. The firms may go on their progress by finding new markets or releasing new products to the existing market. One of these methods is the strategy of marketing and distributional channels. The fairs which are the one of the most important marketing activities of textile sector, are a trading point in which customers and products meet. From now on the fairs have become today’s modern market place. The fairs have been arranged to meet the customers and tradesmen in the same place, 11thInternational Thread Fair, arranged at the same time with TexpoEurasia 2014 Fair at TÜYAP, with the support of TEMSAD by the participation of 552 firms and company representatives from 36 countries. Especially socks, knitting, printing and digital printing Machines have got attention. The participants of the fair have said that they have got satisfaction with the visitors and got great business connections even if some troubles have occured because of the fair arrangement before the election.

PALET

Ohmatex, a smart textile technology company, has developed several different tools to encapsulate standard connectors to make them especially wellsuited for integration with textile materials. The most recent addition is a washable connector which was designed in such a way that it can be attached to a textile or thin conductive material. The connector consists of a male and female part which snap together to make a strong electrical connection. Both male and female parts are fully washable, although the male part may be removed prior to washing if necessary. The connector has no mechanical moving parts and can be fixed to a thin fabric or conductive material with minimal physical stress. It has built-in strain relief and can have customized PCBs integrated in the male part to create general programmability. The company is looking forward to supplying the connector and enhancing the washability and robustness of connection in smart garments for sports, fashion, medical and military application. Kaynakรงa/Source: 1. http://www.innovationintextiles.com 2. http://www.ohmatex.dk

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2023 vizyonu

Tekstil sektöründe Avrupa birincisi olan Tür-

için bir hayli önemli bir yer kaplayan tekstil sektörünün daha da güçlenmesinin yolu ülkenin kendi makinelerini üretmesi, kendi -

Turkey, the prime of Europe in textile sector, is progressing in the textile machines exportation field each passing day. At the present time, Turkey is at the 18thplace among the countries which has manufactured world’s textile machines. Textile sector has quite important place in Turkish economy, so the way of getting stronger in textile sector is associated with manufacturing the country’s self machines and meeting self demands. At the same time, to enhance the exportation of Turkish textile machines and also to provide employment, the firms which operate in textile sector, should share their products and quality with the world by attending to the both domestic and international fairs. If we compare importation with exportation, importation is further. To improve this rate for our country, textile machine sector should manufacture to the world with high quality target by doing much

more working than those done until now. Working should be accelerated to extendal so the markets, for which the sector has already worked. The way of increasing exportation is manufacturing value added products. To be able to compete with the world, It needs to concentrate on r&d activities. We can see that Turkish machine manufacturers have started to take a place in global competitive environment actively by all ocating resource for r&d activities and technological investments. Turkey can reach to the targeted export figure of 100 billion Usd in machine manufacturing sector at the year of 2023 by resolving the background problems quickly. The textile machine exportation comprises 2 %

of Turkish machine exportation. At the year of 2023, the textile machine exportation will reach to nearly 2 billion Usd, increasingly around 20 % rise for each year, so targeted total machine exportation of 100 billion Usd and also general exportation target of 500 billion will occur. Due to the features of Turkish firms as product development, elasticity of production, after sale importance, development on engineering; exportation will increase and also the opportunities for new markets will occur. Associated exporten couragement should be taken for the machines, which are not manufactured in our country and imported from abroad. And also protection measures should be taken for importation.

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“International R&D Project Market in the Turkish Textile and Ready-Made Sector” organized by the Uludag Textile Exporters Union (UTEU) and supported by the Ministry of Economy, the Turkish Exporters Assembly (TEA), the Bursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry (BCCI) and the Bursa Eskisehir Bilecik Development Agency (BEBDA) opened its doors in Bursa for the 6th time with 248 different projects which come from all quarters of the world and which are considered as

“International R&D Project Market in the Turkish Textile and Ready-Made Sector” organized by the Uludag Textile Exporters Union (UTEU), opened its doors for the 6th time with 248 different technical textile projects which come from all quarters of the world.

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valuable for exhibition. Technical and functional textiles exhibited in the project market were classified as Vehicle Textiles, Home Technical Textiles, Construction Textiles, Protective and Military Textiles and Functional Dressing Textiles. Burkay who gave a speech in the opening ceremony underlined that they served as a model for all sectors with the project market started by them 6 years ago. Burkay who emphasized that one can climb to the higher league by research and development of the innovative products with high value added said that “We cannot

develop without research. When we do not develop, we cannot compete at the global scale. Our project market is the result of this vision.” Burkay said that it is pleasing that the resources allocated to the R&D by Turkey have been increasing regularly for the last 10 years. Burkay who indicated that they wish to rise to the level of the developed countries in this sense emphasized the importance of the factor productivity in matters like growth, development and current account deficit. of the project market in his speech. Burkay who reminded that they started the way with 67 national projects in the works started by them in order to gather the national and international projects with the investors in the technical and functional textiles and to make them gained by the sector said that 343 national and international projects in total applied to the activity made in this year. Burkay explained that “81 of the projects exhibited in the last 5 years drew interest and steps were taken for implementation by getting a material support of approximately 20 million liras. Our target is to increase these figure to higher levels.” In the Project Market, for the first time, this year, the companies participating in the Textile Innovation League of Turkey obtained their rewards. In addition to the companies participating in the League and ranking as the top 10, Kordsa Global Company became the champion of this league organized for the first time in the sectoral sense got its coup. Furthermore, 9 Eylul University that provided the highest participation to the design competition organized within the coverage of the activity and Süleyman Demirel University that sent the highest number of projects to the Project Market were rewarded.

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gerekli ekonomik tedbirleri hayata geçirebilirsek, -

rekse toplumun tüm kesimlerinin yeniden ekono-

sürdürülen yerel seçimler, siyasal gerginlikler, on -

için ekonominin önünde bekleyen sorunlarla il-

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Tekstil sekt旦r端端lkemizin geleneksel sanayi -

Texpo Eurasia 2014, organized by T端yap Fair and supported by TEMSAD (Textile Machinery and Accessories Industry Association), including the 31st Textile, Weaving, Knitting, Socks Machinery, Ancillary Industry and Chemicals Fair and the simultaneously held the 11th International Istanbul Yarn Fair, is being participated by 552 companies and company rep-

resentatives from 36 countries, and is being held on 26 March in Tüyap Fair and Congress Centre. Texpo Eurasia 2014 is the largest meeting point and trade platform for new opportunities for Turkey and Eurasia Region’s textile industry. The latest developments, ancillary industry and textile chemicals in the weaving, yarn, knitting and

socks manufacturing technologies & machinery will be exhibited in this most important trade expertise fair to enable new investments. Texpo Eurasia 2014 held between 26-29 March, enabling the textile industry to get together, participated by the leaders and purchasing representatives of the leading textile companies from all over

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moda ve trendleri belirleme gücüne sahip ta-

羹yesidir

8 Kamara Fikse ve Kurutma Makinas覺 8 Chambers Heat Setting and Drying Machine

5 Kabin Çift Geçiş Egalize Kurutma Makinası 5 Chambers Double Pass Equalizing (pin-chain) Dryer

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the world. The latest energy efficient technology which minimizes waste and product loss will be presented to the industry professionals. We are hosting for the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest Yarn Fair The 11th International Istanbul Yarn fair has managed to become the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest

and most comprehensive yarn fair. Istanbul Yarn Fair, as the most important trade meeting point for the international yarn industry, has become a platform in which the participants and visitors from all over the world get together for sales and marketing hence giving direction for the global yarn trade. This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

fair participated by Turkey’s most important yarn manufacturer companies, as well as international companies that manufacture and trade yarn. Turkey’s yarn industry, top in Europe and third in the world, maintains its current export status by Istanbul Yarn Fair, as well as providing the opportunity to reach new markets and distribution channels. The fairs are awaited by the textile professionals in Turkey and different regions in the world in curiosity. As a result of the domestic and international market studies carried out throughout the year, they held in Belarus, Bosnia Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Georgia, Croatia, India, Iran, Iraq, Egypt, Uzbekistan, Pakistan, Russia, Serbia and Greece with the participation of various purchasing committees and textile federations. In addition, many purchasing groups from various domestic textile regions, mainly from Denizli, Bursa, Çorlu, Çerkezköy, Adana, Gaziantep, and the 11th International Istanbul Yarn Fairs, which exhibit the latest products and developments of the leading textile machinery and yarn industry companies, hosting many textile professionals coming from different geographies all around the world.

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AÇI

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The fourth combined ITMA ASIA + CITME exhibition is gearing up for another mega showcase in Shanghai, China. To be held from 16 to 20 June 2014 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, the show will gross 152,200 square metres in 13 halls, 15 per cent larger than the last edition in 2012. To-date, the event has attracted the participation of 1,351 textile machinery manufacturers from 27 countries and regions. Taking up the largest exhibition area are Chinese exhibitors, booking slightly over 66 per cent. Euro-

pean manufacturers, taking over 22 per cent of the total exhibition space, are the next biggest contingent. Mr Charles Beauduin, President of CEMATEX, said: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Textile machinery manufacturers are still buoyant about the Asian market, particularly China. Investments in cost-effective technology to help the textile and garment industry stay ahead of the competition are still strong. As such, our combined show will continue to be the unrivalled marketing platform for textile machinery manufacturers tapping into

the vibrant China market.” Mr Wang Shutian, President of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), added: “Interest in the combined show remains extremely strong, especially from Chinese textile machinery manufacturers. As China’s textile industry continues its transformation, the demand for advanced machinery and technology is on the rise. This is also reflected in the current uptrend in textile machinery trade.” According to statistics from the General Administration of Customs, China’s exports of textiles and garments amounted to US$26 billion in 2013. This is an increase of 7 per cent over the same period last year. China continues to focus on upgrading technology and skills to reach an international level for textile and other industry sectors, and this is one of the priorities under the government’s 12th Five-Year Plan period (2011-2015). Extensive visitor promotion ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 is being promoted throughout Asia by means of numerous roadshows and visits to trade associations. Recent roadshows in India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Turkey and Vietnam have drawn very positive responses from the local industries, and delegations and groups of visitors from key textile manufacturing economies have indicated their intention to visit the showcase. In China, an intensive roadshow covering Fujian, Guangdong, Shandong and Zhejiang provinces is currently underway.

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lerden daha iyi bir sonuรง ile testlerden geรงe-

Ertan Textile which prioritizes the environmentalist perception, serves 144 colour stock to its customers, brings in the thread market concept to our country, continues as a leading company in sector. Ertan Textile, which attracts attention with investments and novelty done in its field, has added a new one to its succesfull

customer by winding up the thread in the frictionless setting. Nowadays all the European customers attach particular importance to pilling tests and the demands of compact colour thread increase. By means of these technological machines, better results can be taken from the compact colour thread with real painted hosiery state. In addition, compact threads can be manufactured without pilling and friction. Always the industry-leading Ertan Textile, offers an advantage again. While mak-

splice Machines which are madetests, give result with great success. Thanks to this system, Ertan Textile has provide an advantage to its

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ing whole production with 1,30 kg bobbin in the past, increasing productivity due to 1,80 kg bobbin. If labour cost is fore seen, putting each bobbin is a cost element. However Ertan Textile has enlarged the size of bobin and made each bobin coiled up consecutively; labour cost has declined and manufactured product has been fore seen. Manufacturers have been affected in positively as a result of decreased consumption of bobbins and bags. FROM NOW ON THE LOTS ARE 1500-1800 KG Without colour difference, 1500-1800 kg colours can be manufactured at one lot. Thus, productivity and continuity have been increasing. All the made investors for fast increasing Turkish exportation. The whole production is received for the exporters by Ertan Textile, directs its manufacturing according to the demands of the foreign buying office. This paves the way of our exporters. Always the industry-leading Ertan Textile has fore seen the demands will be in this direction. Ertan Textile has expanded its daily capasity to 22 ton by moving into 13 000m2 closed field with its 4 000m2 plant built 8 months ago.

ERTAN TEXTILE HAS ENLARGED ITS CLOSED FIELD With completed plant in recent months, The firm which has enlarged its closed plant area to 13 000m2 , has set up appropriate platform for all criterions by enlarging works pace. With developed color chart, Ertan Textile has got a confirmation of all the buying office in Europe and America and given information about the plans for the upcoming period. NEW INVESTMENTS COMING UP Ertan Textile has managed to sell its products several months ago and prepared orders, aims to invest for more technological threads in 2015. The firm has got the planning permission for a new investment thesis and focused on r&d activities to be possible manufacturing in Turkey the threads; which arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t manufactured in Turkey until today and become compulsory of the importation. One of the company partner Yusuf Kohen who has graduated from the Chemistry department ties. The goal is to register Turkey as a production center of the world marks. Due to proximity to Europe, Ertan Textile has achieved raising the export rate of raw materials three times.

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端retmek 端zere kurulan

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temsilen asil ve yedek delegeler belirlenmesi -

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One of the leading fabric producers of Turkey with the facilities installed on the 30000 m2 area in ร erkezkรถy Organize Sanayi Bรถlgesi. Directed by Chairman of The Board Natan Yakuppur is following a corporate roadmap with the Professional staff since its foundation although increasing continuously the installed capacity usage area in parallel with the revival of the incal advancements since 2004 when it is founded, and it is keeping on the updates every year. Accelerating his success with these advancements, the company is far from ordinaries. It is one of the leading fabric suppliers preferred by the well known apparel companies setting

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trends in fashion brands. Increasing the import and export capacities with the successful sales and marketing strategies that are applied for contributions on Turkish economy with its perforhighlighting the facts that they were approaching their customers with quality and they were producing the products keeping environment and human health in the foreground. GLOBAL PLAYER IN FABRIC Being one of the most important fabric producers in Turkey, the company, is following closely the global markets which are participated by the textile professionals, by attending fairs both as participant and visitor. Emphasizing the fact that, growing in European Fast Fashion market is among the targets, Yakuppur states that their objectives are at high levels. 2014-2015 Spring â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Summer collection, prepared by the experience and interpretition of Italian Designer

Dario Arduini that brings comprehensive and innovative approach to R&D activities, met with the followers in Premier Vision, Paris Fair. Having a diverse portfolio involving the coated fabrics from poliester, viscoze, cotton, linens, tencel, the company comes forward with theme of â&#x20AC;&#x153;NATUREâ&#x20AC;? this season. The completion of luxury handle with soft colors from the natural and noble spirit and the meeting of check and stripes with the flamboyant earth colors explored underground puts forward the secrets of modern design. Stating that they relish the meetings with ers live the right honor of not wasting effort. They say that the stability they caught is keeping on with improvements. The company is concentrating on the requirements of various brands that renew themselves continuously such as Miroglia, Ann Taylor, ElieTahari, Zara, Benetton, Marks&Spencer, H&M in foreign markets

memnuniyetinin; beklenti ve ürün kalite-

boya tesisi, dokuma birimi, boyama ve

kalite kontrol süreçlerinden geçirilerek

the leader position of the industry with the serious collection infrastructure. Saying that, the customer satisfaction can be obtained from the balance of quality and price in customer requirements, with the alternative products that address the large consumer base. TECHNOLOGICAL INFRASTRUCTURE The company has the machine park which is composed of mostly yarn dyeing facilities, weaving units, dyeing and finishing units from European brands. The fabric dyeing and finishing units are continuously working with 60 weaving machines and preparation facility having 50 tonnes capacity, and with 3 lines having 1.500.000 meter monthly capacity. All the raw materials and finished goods are shipped after being exposed to 100% quality inspection.

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ve kolay ütülenme özellikleri, gömlek ala-

At the Parisian trade fairs this season, TENCEL® shirts in a blend with cotton have priority. The cotton blend concept “Natural Connection” which was launched in September 2013, will be continued in 2014. A shirt with an added value As an article of clothing, the shirt is traditionally made of natural materials since it is worn directly next to the skin. Cotton is particularly popular with consumers as a mate-

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ürünlerini sergileyen Lenzing, yeni konsepti -

rial for shirts. Adding TENCEL® to traditional shirt fabrics produces a host of advantages. The moisture management and skin sensory characteristics are improved due to the good skin sensory properties of TENCEL®. Cotton and TENCEL® are ideal partners in the shirt sector. They go together perfectly and enhance each other with their properties. Both fibers are from Nature and reveal similar benefits such as good breathing properties. “Even a small blending ratio with

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TENCEL® gives shirts of cotton a new definition. As a result of this admixture, the hand, moisture management and gloss can be influenced in a positive manner,” Andreas Gürtler, head of the Performance Apparel Segment at Lenzing explains. Thus the innovative potential of cotton-TENCEL® fabrics is great. Depending on the blending ratio, the look and properties can be changed to suit your needs. Even easy-care properties can be improved. The addition of TENCEL®

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® ®

el-

® ®

eklen-

içeren ku-

® ®

ve denim, ev tekstilinde ise nevresim bulu® için bü®

gömleklerden biçilen etekler, el-

® için büyüyen bir pazar olarak görülmesinin nedeni de bu sebeple®

improves the crease recovery after washing, which leads to a better ironing behavior. Market expansion of the shirt segment “In-house estimates tell us that 16,000 tons of cotton are used in woven shirts and blouses. The shirt segment is seen as a growth segment for TENCEL® for this very reason since even a small percent of TENCEL® can have a positive influence on processing and mean greater comfort for the end consumer,” Andreas Gürtler says. ”Particularly fabrics of long-staple

ve gömleklerini hammadde olarak kullanmak-

cotton and TENCEL® are unbeatable in terms of the quality and look. Already 60% of the TENCEL® fabrics certified according to Lenzing’s quality criteria are used for shirts and blouses. Of this one third is blended with cotton. The goal is to further increase the share with cotton blends in the seasons to come,” Gürtler continues. To promote fabrics with cotton and TENCEL® more effectively, the Lenzing certification system will be further extended. A special sew-on label is offered for the minimum blend of 10% TENCEL® in a cotton fabric.

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Asya bugün küresel tekstil endüstrisinin merkezi

Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015- Focus Asia, an exclusive show for highlighting strengths of Asian Textile Engineering Industry is being organized by India ITME Society, a 34 year old veteran organization in Textile Machinery Exhibitions. This special business event is being held from 20th -22nd Jan 2015 at Bombay Exhibition Centre. The objective of this special series event is not only to showcase technology/machinery but also to address the needs of quality, variety, allied services, access to regional markets and clientele, especially for small medium enterprises.

mand for high-quality, high degree of automation and energy-saving equipment is growing. Now the region is on the verge of entering a new phase with Intra-Asia trade predicted to double to explosive US$350 BY 2025, making it most attractive market block for exporting nations. Global apparel market is expected to cross US$2 Trillion mark. 70 % of world fiber processing takes place in Asia. China, India and Pakistan account for 60% of world fiber consumption. Bangladesh and Vietnam are also emerging as competing textile economies. The scope and opportunity in Indian market is unfathomable with only a small portion of the potential tapped till now. Worldrenowned manufacturers of textile machinery such as Germany Truetzschler, Suessen, Switzerland Rieter, Italy Savio, Japan Toyota, etc., has strong presence in India, indicating a strong buyers market and long term opportunity. Emerging Retail Industry and Malls provide huge opportunities for the Apparel, Handicraft and other segments of the industry in India. Combined size of Chinese & Indian Apparel market will become

Why “Focus Asia” exhibition held in Mumbai, India? Asia is today the center of the global textile industry, the world’s largest textile machinery market. Keeping in view the massive Intra- Asia trade with a growth of 8% CAGR and at US$180 Billion, ITME Society has launched a “Focus Asia” edition of exhibition to be held alternatively with ITME Series. The Asian market demand for textile machinery and demand for high performance, de-

bigger than USA and EU. In India there is large scope for technical textile linked with growing industrialization, large infrastructure projects in stream. Government Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme with an investment target of Rs.151,000 crore is big boost to machinery sector. Greater Investment and FDI opportunities are available. Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s competitiveness has significantly improved in the last 10 years resulting in higher market share. Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s factor cost, particularly power and wages, have become relatively competitive in comparison with China. Manufacturing costs in spinning, weaving and processing have also become competitive. Stitching a new catalyst for Indian market opportunities Thus demand and need of the time, gave birth to Global Textile Technology & Engineering Show 2015- Focus Asia, an exclusive and unique event to match the need to supply. Already participation from China, Taiwan, Japan, Korea and Indonesia are confirmed in large scale. A special pavilion for spare parts, accessories and components catering to Textile machinery is organized to give focused customer experience to manufacturers to push exports. Another unique and never before opportunity is being created for agents and dealers at GTTES 2015- Focus Asia to meet and expand their clientele, especially for weaving, technical textile segment etc. which has a huge opportunity in India.

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r端t Tekstil is serving its customers as an integra-

pany produces cotton, cotton modal, tencel,

速

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ko görünümlü ketenli, viskon, pamuk, ipek, yün -

hion in special quality developed in the directi-

Could you please assess the year 2013 both for the company and the industry? What are your targets and previews for 2014?

tencel and bambu modal blends are among

As a result of collaboration with Invista, what are contributions of Invista on your products? ®

Could you please give some information regarding the new collection and innovations in Zümrüt Tekstil? What is the direction of fabric trends?

makes many positive contributions on marke-

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速

quality to apparel producers in cooperation 速

quality advantages by decreasing the variati-

Raw materials are needed to produce fabrics. These raw materials are obtained from both natural and synthetics fibers. What are the criteria and the reasons for choosing the raw materials for your products? -

What are the values that you put on the fabric? (In terms of both the added value and human health) -

talebin son zamanlarda ciddi oranlarda

cotton-modal, modal, tencel, silk and -

What are the opinions and your studies regarding the sustainability, environmentally friendliness and healthiness ? -

layan etkin ses emiciler; her durumda kendimizi küçük kazalardan kaynaklanan problemleri or-

Building materials that render our home warm, quiet and cosy; acoustically efficient absorbers in the automobile that dampen driving noise and ensure a pleasant trip; hygiene products that help us feel secure and comfortable in any situation; wipes that help quickly remove little mishaps – nonwovens are in use all around, making our life easier and more pleasant. At the 2014 INDEX, Bavarian nonwoven maker Sandler invites you to experience the fascination with nonwovens for yourself. Apart from hygiene products, the company also puts a focus on nonwovens for technical applications in its trade fair presentation.

Model home with a garden A modern, light-filled house, clear lines, an elegant minimalist design, a terrace fitted with lounge furniture and a large garden: A description of your dream home? Well, in any case this is Sandler’s new booth at the INDEX. Have a seat and experience the fascination with nonwovens first hand. Inside the house, nonwoven insulation materials on walls and ceiling create a comfortable indoor climate and provide quiet rooms for productive talks despite the hustle and bustle of the trade fair. A patchwork picture made of different nonwoven qualities, equipped with print and

kompozitleri hareket için alan ya-

embossed motifs, showcase acoustic efficiency combined with a host of design opportunities. Have a first glimpse into the world of Sandler nonwovens with our new image trailer screened in the showroom or plan the implementation of the next innovation in nonwovens in our meeting room. Nonwoven wall paper for exterior application commends itself as a textile alternative for renovation and

Sandler nonwovens for hygiene products Nonwovens in hygiene articles are our daily companions. They lend support to little explorers and further an active lifestyle through discrete protection. Thus, softness providing for a high level of comfort and reliable performance ensuring confidence in use are the paramount objectives in product development. In this respect, the latest Sandler innovations for hygiene products leave nothing to be desired: New materials for topsheet applications provide increased comfort in feminine hygiene with a silky touch. A special combination of fibre blend and manufacturing technology makes these nonwovens even smoother-silk

touch for softness, a high level of comfort in use and a recognisable “nothing there” feeling. After all, there is so much more to think of than hygiene products. In all applications, nonwoven distribution layers providing excellent fluid management are becoming a talking point: They reliably absorb fluid and quickly transport it to the absorbent core. Reliable protection allowing us to simply enjoy whatever the day may bring, no matter whether we are using a product ourselves or are able to get a good night’s sleep knowing the baby diaper keeps our child dry and comfortable as well. In baby diapers and incontinence products extensible sawabond ® and sawasoft ® nonwovens as well as elastic sawaflex ® composites create room to move. In diaper ears and other closure systems these air-permeable nonwovens combine a textile feel and facilitate optimum fit. With these nonwovens hygiene products adapt to any situation whether your child is learning to walk or you are trying a new type of sport. From design to sustainability Sandler wipe substrates are the friend in need from baby care to industrial cleaning: They

may be lightweight, conserving resources, and they are soft to gently care for sensitive skin in baby care or cosmetics. Or they may be particularly sturdy and bulky to easily remove even stubborn dirt. The nonwoven substrates are characterised by excellent lotion handling. Partnership and sustainability are Sandler’s watchwords regarding Eurocel a fibre developed by Lenzing AG, manufactured in Europe from base materials of European origin. Using the “European fibre”, delivery distances for raw materials are shorter, carbon dioxide emissions during transport are reduced and the nonwovens’ carbon footprint is improved. With Eurocel wipes become more bulky, more stable when wet and dry out less quickly. This fibre also reduces elongation. And since care is also supposed to be fun, Sandler brings life to nonwovens with applicationoriented print and embossed designs. The latest embossed design for baby wipes invites you to just dive in: sea dwellers ® introduces a lively underwater world with seahorses, fish, turtles and clams.

Freudenberg Nonwovens is presenting innovations in wound care at INDEX 2014. With over 30 yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; experience in the medical sector, the company is well prepared to tackle any challenge: A comprehensive portfolio for traditional wound care is complemented by solutions for ostomy applications. Freudenberg Nonwovens systematically focuses on innovations, from antibacterial finishing to the use of chitosan fibers in advanced wound care products, and offers tailor-made solutions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not just for the medical industry. In the past knitted fabrics were mainly used to care for wounds; today, though, it is hard to imagine wound care without nonwo-

vens. Freudenberg and its long-standing knowhow have been instrumental in bringing about the transition to functional nonwovens as the base material for wound care. The company is not only presenting the latest developments in traditional wound care at INDEX 2014, but is also showcasing numerous innovations in the field of advanced wound care, where the wound environment must be kept moist. That is why Freudenberg primarily uses highly-absorbent fibers. The material adapts perfectly to fit the wound bed â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which makes life much easier for chronic wound sufferers in particular. One major innovation is the use of chitosan fibers.

mükemmel de-

ürünlere ek olarak bireysel çözümler için -

veya kozmetik mendiller gibi ürünler bunlardan ®

In combination with hydroactive nonwovens, this biopolymer brings new perspectives for the healing process and is already proving its worth in practice. “Our experts have extremely extensive material know-how. We process all types of fibers and offer several options for individual solutions in addition to standard products,” explains Dr. Oliver Heneric, Business Segment Management Medical Europe at Freudenberg Nonwovens. “That makes us the market leader in ostomy applications, for example, and we are also pressing ahead with the latest developments in transdermal applications in the USA.” Research into transdermal solutions is based on cooperation with Japan Vilene Company, a Freudenberg joint venture partner with extensive know-how in this segment.

feminine care and adult incontinence applications. These nonwovens have excellent wear comfort thanks to the cotton-like structure. Special solutions such as eco-friendly ADLs complete the product portfolio for the hygiene segment. Developing extremely light materials is a predominant trend throughout industry in general: Freudenberg has developed an ultra-light product variant of Evolon ® with a 3D structure, a material with an extremely soft touch and high volume that also has the cleaning efficiency of a microfilament cloth. The general-purpose microfilament can be used for both wet and dry applications: In industry for the surface treatment of cars, for example, or in professional cleaning, as well as in the consumer sector, for instance as LCD wet wipes or for cosmetic wipes. Evolon ® has an ultraviolet protection factor of 80. This is the maximum ultraviolet protection factor pursuant to the latest UV Standard 801 – and therefore makes the nonwoven an interesting option for textile manufacturers as well as the makers of sunshades, awnings, etc. Visitors to Stand 2127 can see for themselves just how effective Evolon is as a printing medium.

Cross-industry trends: Lightweight materials Experience gained in different fields of application generates valuable synergies that bring benefits to customers everywhere. In the Hygiene segment, Freudenberg offers ultra-light and skin-friendly topsheets, backsheets and acquisition distribution layers for baby diapers,

akustik -

bilir, böylece bu spunlaidler için pekçok

Acoustic nonwovens for enhanced comfort Acoustic nonwovens fulfill an important function in car interiors: They help to absorb noise and thus increase comfort. The ultra-light SoundTex ® acoustic nonwoven reduces the thickness and weight of the sound-absorbing material while delivering the same acoustic performance. Bicomponent fine filaments for individual solutions Freudenberg Nonwovens aims to offer tailor-made solutions in all of its target markets. The newly-developed bicomponent fine filaments are particularly well suited for use in numerous applications in many industrial sectors. Different polymers can be combined in one filament during the manufacturing process. In addition, these bicomponent fibers can be mixed with monofibers, thus creating several different property profiles for these spunlaids.

At this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s INDEX, the worldwide leading exhibition for nonwovens, from 8 to 11 April in Geneva, Switzerland, Oerlikon Neumag will be presenting plants and technologies for the production of high-quality nonwovens for hygiene and technical applications. For the first time, the new staple fiber plant Staple FORCE S 1000 will be introduced on stand 2314 in hall 2.

olan ülkelerden gelen talepler artmaya de-

Staple FORCE S 1000 - compact and economical The new, compact plant is specially laid out for the economical production of staple fibers in small lots up to 15 tons per day, as necessary for the production of carded nonwovens. The Staple FORCE not only impresses with its low initial investment and compact construction, but also the energy costs are significantly reduced by replacing steam and water baths through a dry drawing process. “The Staple FORCE S 1000 is directed at downstream integrators, who in future want to produce the fibers for their products in-house, enabling the nonwovens producer to produce and further develop his end products without disclosing know-how and without quality fluctuations“, explained Rainer Straub, Vice President Product Management Oerlikon Manmade Fibers. Nonwoven: All technologies on board for market-specific developments Oerlikon Neumag has a comprehensive portfolio of nonwoven technologies, from meltspun spunbond (spunbond and meltblown) up to air-laid nonwovens (airlaid). Application areas are for example special technical uses such as filtration, roofing, geotextiles and automotive, as well as hygiene applications.

Nonwovens technology for a rapidly growing market Oerlikon Neumag offers the complete process from polymer chips up to roll goods for the production of substrate for bitumen roofing membranes, sarking membranes and also geotextiles. The one-step spunbond technology convinces with a combination of effectiveness and productivity, thus lowering production costs by up to 20%. More than 3 million tons of technical nonwovens were produced last year and the demand is still increasing, especially in emerging countries. Thinner, lighter, efficient materials, as produced with the spunbond technology, now specify the trend. Meltblown technology stand-alone or as an upgrade solution The Oerlikon Neumag meltblown technology enables the cost-efficient production of high-quality meltblown and SMS (spunbondmeltblown-spunbond) products. Stand-alone mono and bico meltblown plants produce nonwovens for a variety of filtration, insulation and sorbent applications. The meltblown technology is applied for a multitude of medical and hygiene products as “Plug & Product” installations in already existing and in new exter-

nal SXS plants. This solution enables a cost-efficient upgrading of new or existing spunbond plants and offers nonwoven producers access to markets with very high quality demands. Airlaid: more homogeneity with thin nonwovens The core of the Oerlikon Neumag airlaid technology, the forming head, sets standards for the

production of extremely thin airlaid nonwovens. A high uniformity and homogeneous web formation, today enable the production of high-quality, light airlaid nonwovens with economically attractive production speeds and plant throughputs. With the new forming head, we can not only produce very light airlaid materials, but also combination nonwovens with full utilization of the plant capacity, at the same time saving raw material.

PANORAMA

by the Zorlu Textiles Group’s CEO Vedat Aydin and Durst’s CEO Christoph Gamper, at the Frankfurt trade fair “Heimtextil 2014” last January. Extensive testing at the Durst production site in Brixen in February, was followed by a successful machine acceptance. In April, the Kappa 320 will begin production at the Zorlu production site in Turkey, where it will comple-

PANORAMA

Durst, the industrial inkjet specialist has announced the third Kappa 320 installation, just shortly after the market launch, late 2013. The Zorlu Textiles Group, Turkey’s largest producer of home textiles, is the latest company, after Mascioni in Italy and Colorprint in Spain, to add the digital high performance printer to its portfolio. The buying option was arranged

PANORAMA

ment two existing Reggiani printer systems. “After a tough start in the Turkish textile market in 2011, we reviewed many details and focused our energy on the development of the Kappa 320, while at the same time modifying the Kappa 180 V2”, says Christoph Gamper, CEO of Durst Phototechnik AG. “We are thrilled, that we were able

PANORAMA

to convince Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest home textiles producer of the advantages of Durst inkjet technology. We really look forward to a close cooperation with Zorlu to further advance digital textiles in Turkey.â&#x20AC;?

buying option for the Kappa 320, I warned him about the risks involved, because I was

PANORAMA

familiar with some issues, that producers of the first version of the Kappa 180 had encountered”, says Murat Güdücüler, Technical Manager, Zorlu Textiles Group. “Imagine my astonishment at the tests at Colorprint in Spain and at the machine acceptance tests in Brixen! The vertical production, the machine construction, the new dryer unit,

PANORAMA

zisyonunda bulunmakta ve böylelikle hassas endüstrisinde üretimler için idealdir, ancak mo-

ganlar, nevresimler, masa örtüleri, tül perdeler kartlar gibi reklam materyallerinin üzerine de

the 32 V2-Printhead Technology and the production speed all performed outstanding and the print quality was the best we had seen in our entire selection process. We are certain, that the Kappa 320 will provide the efficiency

and productivity we were looking for.” Due to the installation at the Zorlu Textile Group, Durst will strengthen its service presence in Turkey, with Turkish-speaking service technicians, a spare parts depot and 24/7-support.

Making the evaluation of Swiss textile machinery industry in 2013 for Tekstil & Teknik magazine, Cornelia Buchwalder, SWISSMEM, General Secretary, pointed out that Turkey has become the strongest export market for the Swiss machinery in 2013. In her short statement for our exclusive Swiss textile machinery industry issue, Bushwalder stated that 2013 in general was a good year for the Swiss textile machinery industry. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The export volumes have increased by 12.4% to 998.8 Mio EUR compared to the previous year. Turkey is the strongest export market and gained 33.2% in 2013 compared to 2012 with a value of 201 Mio EUR. The other important export markets are China, India, Germany and Italy. These five markets account for 54% of the Swiss exports. But we have also seen some regions with a negative development. Mainly countries in Southeast Asia, such as Thailand and Vietnam. But also in South America and Europe development was slow,â&#x20AC;? Cornelia Buschwalder said.

At the ITMA ASIA 2014, Bräcker will exhibit their well known, high quality key components for ring spinning machines. Bräcker redORBIT Spinning Rings – Designed for the production of high quality yarns at top speed. The redORBIT ring is the cost-optimized solution for the system “ring holder and supporting ring”. redORBIT

Bräcker OPAL® Spinning-Rings The Bräcker OPAL® ring is the answer to the demands of today’s fast paced spinning industry, where the spinning mills have to work with very tight cost control, whilst adapting quickly to the ever faster changing markets. The Bräcker OPAL® they are custom-designed and suitable exclu-

fer high productivity from the very installation

performance ratio thanks to optimal material combinations. The redORBIT is Bräcker‘s answer to the Chinese market‘s requirement for a ring offering low hairiness combined with attractive IPI values at elevated operating speeds.

signed for a lifetime of about 5 years. In combination with Bräcker travellers, it produces yarn qualities which customers are used to achieve only with well-known European quality rings.

ziklerindeki lider konumunu sürdürmek-

yeni ihtiyaçlara cevap vermekte, mo-

supergrin-

30 Million TITAN spinning rings Bräcker has been able to maintain its leadership position in spinning rings with their TITAN ring, of which so far more than 30 Mio pieces have been sold to successful spinning mills around the world. With best value for money Bräcker’s continuous efforts in developing new travellers, in response to new requirements, allow them to constantly introduce new travellers to optimize productivity and efficiency of the most modern ringspinning machines. Bräcker will also exhibit the proven accessories RIT and ZIRKON travellers for especially tools such as the Bräcker RAPID for easy The well-known and appreciated range ®

supergrinder grinding machine.

Santex is primarily involved with the finishing of knit fabrics. However, every stage from spinning, knitting to dyeing, affects the behaviour of the fabric and determines the fabrics characteristics and how the finishing machines need setting in order to achieve the best results. Reference to best results not only refers to fabric quality but also optimization of machine usage and minimising of costs especially energy costs. Following on from the successful Santex Enairsave heat recovery system, Santex have further developed the area of energy saving with the new ESC (energy saving cham-

ber). From the outside the Santex ESC chamber looks just like a standard Santashrink heating chamber, but internally the air is handled in a completely new way. The Santex ESC is a chamber which can be added in front of an existing Santashrink Standard dryer. What is the difference between Santex Enairsave and Santex ESC? Whereas Enairsave is mainly used on Santashrink Jumbo or Super Jumbo dryer and is focused solely on saving energy, Santex ESC is also designed to increase productivity.

Up to 20% Energy saving Standard energy saving devices use hot exhaust air to preheat the incoming fresh air through external heat exchangers. Santex ESC however uses the hot exhaust air to directly preheat the incoming wet fabric. Efficient use of energy is ensured through cycling of air in the ESC chamber. The effectiveness of the ESC can be identified through reduced exhaust air temperatures at the exit. With a Santex ESC chamber at the inlet of a dryer, and depending on exhaust air temperatures, an increase in productivity of between 15% to 20%, and a similar range in energy saving, can be achieved. Automatic filter belt On request the retrofit Santex ESC chamber can be supplied with an automatic lint belt cleaning system to work independently of an existing dryer with manual filters. Similarly the choice of machinery shouldn’t only look at installed power heat exchanger capacity, but ultimately at what is the productivity and what the energy costs per kilo fabric are. In the end the cost of machinery is a lesser part of the overall cost of purchasing a machine particularly when future costs of power and fuel are likely to rise. In addition, features such as the high lofting action of Santashrink may also lead to less softener being necessary to achieve the required fabric feel.

Atatürk Organize Sanayi Bölgesi 10000 Sokak No: 10

The global leader in the development, design, manufacturing and service of technologically advanced, highly engineered textile finishing and tire cord solutions serving the global textile, chemical fibre, tire and conveyor belt manufacturing markets, Benninger will exhibit a TRIKOFLEX drum washer and a BenningerK端stersDyePad Basic, one of the key components of its customized continuous processing solutions at ITMA ASIA. Supplying tailored process solutions with innovative and reliable

products as well as comprehensive textile process technology know-how, Benninger always works closely and in collaboration with textile customers.The textile applications of their customers dictate how they think. With their many years of experience and sound textile competence, Benninger creates long-term added value for its customers. Benninger is able to make use of the extensive experience gained from a large number of reference installations for the individual application pro-

zamanda komple servis çözümleri sunucusu -

yüzen silindir maksimum sapma potansiyeli su-

cesses. Benninger operates as a full-service solutions provider as well. Always planning and implementing technologically optimized and individually designed process and system solutions, Benninger always referred as a trustworthy and reliable partner for textile customers in all respects, starting from process consulting through to the entire life cycle. High degree of washing efficiency in spite of low fresh water consumption Despite the tremendous efforts of machine designers to reduce the liquor ratio, finishing of knitwear in jet dyeing machines still requires large amounts of water and therefore also a great deal of energy. Benninger has developed and implemented a continuous open width finishing process that – in addition to quality benefits – also offer savings, particularly in terms of water and energy. This process makes it possible to lower CO2 emissions by nearly two thirds in comparison to exhaust dyeing processes. Benninger’s TRIKOFLEX bleaching and washing plants and the Benninger KüstersDyePad perfectly suit this type of

application. Washing on Benninger’s high efficiency TRIKOFLEX drum washer with mechanically assisted front and back washing reduces the water consumption by more than 40 percent in comparison to conventional washers. At the same time the energy required to heat up the washing water is reduced. Additionally Benninger’sTrikoflex has been specifically developed for tension sensitive textiles. Reliable, reproducible dyeing results The DyePad Basic has been especially designed to suit the needs of the Asian markets, and focuses on easy handling. Two swimming rollers ensure a maximum deflection potential and allow dyeing of knit and woven fabrics without any restrictions. This is the reason why the DyePad has a market share that exceeds 80 percent if CPB dyeing is applied. With the CPB dyeing process the reactive dye is fixed at room temperature. With controlled dyeing conditions plus the latest developments in the dye itself, this modern CPB dyeing system can be used on cellulose fibers for woven fabrics as well as knitwear anywhere in the world without any restrictions.

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When a textile expert goes shopping for a fashionable new T-shirt, quality will be just as important as color and style, and maybe even more so. That’s why the long journey from spinning mill to fashion store needs a good start, with the basic ingredients in that

® ®

T-shirt – the yarns – meeting every quality demand along the way. The only signpost required is accurate measuring of key yarn properties using USTER ® TESTER 5, the indispensable guide to textile quality and mill profitability. In fact, it doesn’t take a textile technologist to identify some of the obvious differences between ‘good’ and ‘bad’ quality in the store. A careful look will be enough for anyone to spot some telltale signs: small knots of entangled fiber, or neps, for example, or an uneven look to the knitted fabric caused by too many thick or thin parts in the yarn. Today, every consumer can be a quality controller, often by simply picking

up and holding a product. “Ultimately, touching the fabric can reveal a lot about quality,” says Gabriela Peters, Product Manager Yarn Testing at Uster Technologies AG. “A good quality fabric should feel right to the touch – tight, but not too stiff, soft but not weak. The majority of defects can be traced back to the yarn, so that’s where we should focus, to eradicate problems such as neps and uneven-looking fabric.” The ‘right’ look and feel Designers working for the top global apparel brands focus on styling, color and fashion – but they also have a clear concept of how they

106

kalite parametreleri ve o zamandan bu yana -

® daki temel enstrüman olarak- her tesisin kalite

want a garment to look and feel to the wearer. To meet all these criteria, the yarn to be used must be precisely specified, and it’s the spinner’s challenge to produce it, consistently, to exactly the required quality standards. Spinners are no different to other entrepreneurial businesses. They aim to delight their customers, while operating to the maximum of economy and profitability themselves. And that profit impetus today calls for effective and reliable yarn testing disciplines, as the only sure way to achieve the essential balance between quality and productivity in the mill. For any fabric application where quality matters, it is an absolute necessity to measure certain yarn properties: unevenness, thick and thin places, neps, hairiness and yarn count are the most critical. Testing for all these is done in the laboratory, using a single instrument, known as an evenness tester. And there is no argument about which evenness tester is acknowledged as setting the global standard: the USTER ® TESTER 5, now in its fifth generation, is the embodiment of more than 60 years of experience, know-how and continuous development in this field by Uster Technologies, and its status is recognized throughout the industry.

Essential testing, then and now... Uster Technologies produced its first evenness tester in 1948, in response to a request from local spinners. The quality parameter established then, and used ever since to quantify evenness, is the wellknown USTER value, also known today as coefficient of mass (CVm). Expressed as a percentage, this value shows the degree of variation in the unevenness of a yarn. The higher the value, the greater the variation. In the examples seen here, where two yarns differ by as little as 2.6% in USTER values, this evenness variation results in a marked difference in fabric appearance. The yarn with the lower value (CVm = 12.6%, Fig. 1) shows an even appearance, while the yarn with the higher CVm value of 15.2% (Fig. 2) displays a cloudy effect in knitted fabric. Even 60 years ago, the business challenges of customer satisfaction and profitability were the same as today, so the ability to measure unevenness properly has always been a major advantage for spinners, as these examples illustrate. By meeting these fundamental needs, USTER® TESTER 5 has become the core instrument in the textile lab – right at the heart of quality control for every mill. Says Gabriela Peters: “Results from USTER® TESTER 5 are now regarded

sürdürülebilirlik ve rekabetçilik için bir sizlikleri noktasal olarak belirlenebilir miktarda harcanan üretimden, ham ®

T-shirt, gerekli görünüm ve kalite bilinci-

as essential for the competitiveness – and even survival – of a spinning plant. For example, the USTER value shown up in spectrogram form can pinpoint irregularities and directly identify a defective machine part responsible for the quality problem. This kind of quick fix will save the mill a lot of wasted production – and wasted raw material amounts to lost profit. The same applies to poor quality yarn which causes customer complaints and price reductions.” But spinners who can deliver yarn with a quality report from the USTER® TESTER 5 can be sure their customers will be happy – in the knowledge that samples were tested on an instrument whose accuracy and reliability is trusted 100%. Both parties can also rely on USTER® TESTER 5 reports to double-check that the yarn’s quality parameters meets the required specification. That mutual confidence creates the vital first link in the chain of customer satisfaction. A chain that extends to the final product, the T-shirt on the fashion shelves which has the necessary look and feel to attract the quality-conscious purchaser...

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Rieter recorded a pleasing trend in business in the 2013 financial year. The improvement in its market position enabled the company to post significant growth in all key figures â&#x20AC;&#x201C; order intake, sales, EBIT and net profit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; compared with the previous year. New orders of 1 259.4 million CHF were 50% higher. Rieter generated net profits of 37.4 million CHF in 2013, equivalent to 3.6% of sales. This figure is 46% higher than the previous yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outcome. The Board of Directors will propose that a dividend of 3.50 CHF be paid for the 2013 financial year out of the reserve from capital contributions. The investment program initiated for the years 2012 and 2013 in order to generate further growth was largely completed at year-end. It was already having a positive impact on the trend of business. After a subdued start to the year, the market for short-staple fiber machinery and

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components gained momentum in the course of 2013. Spinning mills’ margins continued to develop favorably, and this stimulated customers’ willingness to invest. This positive trend was broad-based in regional terms and apparent in a large number of national markets. Following a strong initial six months, demand stabilized in the second half of the year, but remained at a plea-singly high level. Demand for the company’s offering, expanded by major product launches, has been very strong in both traditional and new markets. With its product range centering on specific markets and its new plants, the company is ideally positioned with a worldwide operating network. Spinning mills in all major markets are increasingly placing their confidence in machinery and components which enable a high degree of automation to be achieved in conjunction with higher productivity and yarn quality with lower energy consumption. As the sole global supplier of integrated systems for all four spinning processes, Rieter can optimize the entire spinning operation in line with customers’ specific needs. This is a crucial and lasting competitive advantage. Orders received and sales In the year under review, new orders received by Rieter increased by 50% to 1 259.4 million CHF. After developing especially vigorously in the first half of 2013, order intake slowed slight-

ly in the second six months, but still remained above the long-term average. This trend was especially evident in Turkey, where demand had been particularly strong with the support of government development schemes. Rieter booked substantial new orders in China, especially in the first six months, due to the further expansion of its local presence. However, investments by Chinese spinning mills waned toward year-end due to large raw material inventories and growing difficulties with financing investment projects. Healthy demand for Rieter products nevertheless continued throughout the year in a number of Asian countries, such as Pakistan, Uzbekistan, South Korea, Bangladesh, Indonesia and Vietnam. Spinning mills in the US are renewing capacity as the industry benefits from a competitive cost structure. Orders received in India rose in the second half, albeit still at a modest level. Rieter posted an increase in order intake at both Business Groups, with the striking momentum in the first six months being attributable especially to orders for integrated systems from Spun Yarn Systems. Spun Yarn Systems Business Group The Spun Yarn Systems Business Group (machinery business) posted order intake of 1 084.3 million CHF, an increase of 56 % compared to 2012. The strongest growth was recorded in Turkey and the US, followed by other Asian countries such as

110

Pakistan, Uzbekistan, South Korea, Vietnam and Bangladesh, where demand was sustained at a high level. Orders received in India revived in the second half of the year, but still remained below the previous yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s level overall. Following an encouraging start in the first six months, demand declined in China in the second half. Customers were unsettled by large inventories of cotton fiber, lower demand for yarns produced from viscose fibers and financing problems. Spun

Yarn Systems reported sales of 857.8 million CHF in 2013, an increase of 18 % compared with the previous year. All regions contributed to this; only in Europe were sales slightly lower. In this context Spun Yarn Systems posted an 19 % increase in sales in the second half compared with the first six months, and output increased considerably, especially toward year-end. This positive trend resulted mainly from higher volumes in the second half, a more favorable product mix with

111

margins above the average of current orders in hand and improved market penetration in the spare parts business. The savings achieved as a result of the reduced head count also had its greatest impact at Spun Yarn Systems. Premium Textile Components Business Group Orders received by the Premium Textile Components Business Group in 2013 increased by 21% to 175.1 million CHF. The highest growth rate

Rieter, yeni pazarlar için önemli ürün önerilerini

was recorded in China, where Premium Textile Components had reinforced its local presence. The business group did good business both with spinning mills and with local textile machinery manufacturers. Orders placed in Turkey continued their positive trend. In India, Premium Textile Components maintained the level of order intake compared with the previous year despite the steep devaluation of the Indian rupee. Demand from other Asian countries was slightly

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ekonomik maliyetler ve küresel tüketim duyar-

higher. Demand was strong in the year under review for all four Premium Textile Components’ brands: Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and Suessen. Premium Textile Components’ sales to third parties of 177.5 million CHF in the year under review were 10% higher. The business group recorded a substantial increase in China, and sales also revived in India; increasing numbers of EliTe conversion kits were delivered by Suessen, especially in the second half. Intercompany sales rose even more strongly than those to third parties, which in turn reflects the good trend of business at Spun Yarn Systems. As a result segment sales of 259.1 million CHF were 12% higher than a year earlier. Flexible manufacturing at all four units of Premium Textile Components contributed to sales momentum. Expansion in Asia The planned expansion of facilities in China and India has been completed. This means that Rieter is considerably better positioned in these large markets and at the same time has made state-of-the-art capacity available which assumes a core function in the company’s global manufacturing network. Innovation Rieter has expanded its offerings with important products for new markets. The new version of the J 20 airjet spinning machine was released for serial production at the end of 2013. Rieter can thus proceed with the selective market launch of this product. The airjet spinning process enables high productivity and fiber utilization to be achieved with good yarn quality.

Process improvements The goal of operational excellence is being pursued in all Rieter facilities. Process improvements have resulted in a perceptible increase in competitiveness in manufacturing operations in particular. As already announced earlier, new IT-assisted global business processes will be introduced with a six-month delay, as of January 2014. Outlook With broadly based business worldwide, Rieter has seen a good demand for textile machinery and components in the first two months of 2014. Demand depends among other factors on the development of yarn and raw materials prices, currency exchange rates, financing costs, and global consumer sentiment. Based on the current order backlog – already reaching into 2015 – full year sales for 2014 are expected to show high single-digit growth compared to 2013 with a stronger second semester. Operational profitability (EBIT) in 2014 will be positively impacted by volume growth, whereas additional costs of 10 million CHF for conclusions of the IT-supported processes project, low airjet capacity utilization and lower order backlog margins than in the second semester 2013 are expected to have an adverse impact. Rieter expects for the year 2014 a higher operating result (EBIT) than in 2013. Rieter will put additional focus in 2014 on its customers to ensure on-time delivery of order backlog and a profitable future order intake. Further priorities will be the completion of the final investment program activities and leveraging the new assets from the investment program 2012/2013.

SSM announce their participation to the forthcoming ITMA Asia in Shanghai, China, from June 16th to 20th at Hall W2 / Booth H01. The Swiss based SSM Sch채rer Schweiter Mettler AG, the inventor of the electronic yarn traverse system, will continue their tradition of trend setting with the presentation of breakthrough technologies. With five new market introductions in

Asia and a number of innovations & applications for their well-known product range, SSM will exhibit a total of six machines. Machines for

For the first time in China the SSM TW2plus-W is shown. The TW2plus-W is a precision pack-

age winder for dye packages and rewinding operations. The electronic fastflexTM yarn laying technology allows a high flexibility to produce a made-to-measure cross wound package. The ergonomic design and enduring technology cuts maintenance and service expenses down to a minimum. From SSM GIUDICI comes the brand new TG1FT manual false-twist texturing machine. It combines a proven texturing path along with a spacing saving machine design. The result is a machine for the cost efficient production of high quality Polyamide (down to 7 dtex). Polypropylene as well as fine count polyester yarns. In combination with the SSM GIUDICI TG1-FT the TG1-AT will be shown as well. The manual SSM GIUDICI TG1-AT air texturing machine is designed for the cost efficient production of high quality air texturized yarns made of POY or FDY Polyester, Polyamide and Polypropylene and ranging from fine to medium final counts.

The SSM TK2-20 CT/KT will be exhibited for Sewing Thread Finish Winding. It sets new market standards in combining the established performance of the well-known THREAD KING series with the functionality and operational comfort of modern control and drive technology. The TK220 stands for first-class unwinding properties and fulfills the highest yarn processing requirements. With the presentation of another two brandnew SSM textile machines, the showed product range will be completed. More details of SSM latest developments will be provided during the exhibition in Shanghai. Besides of the presented applications SSM does provide machines for Air Covering, Draw Winding, Assembly Winding, Yarn Singeing and Parallel Winding. As the market leader in these fields, SSM enjoys an excellent reputation. Furthermore SSM maintains a worldwide service network that ensures the training of their customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s staff and the maximum return on customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s investments.

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Stäubli will be showing a selection of its most modern products from its extensive range of textile machinery at ITMA Asia 2014. This includes cam motions, dobbies, and electronic Jacquard machines with harnesses as well as weaving preparation systems with automatic warp drawing in, leasing, and warp-tying machines. At the same booth Group member Schönherr is presenting exclusive carpet samples from its latest collection, some with the recently developed “Magic Weft Effect 3” and others with the“Magic Shadow Effect”, produced on ALPHA 400 and 500 carpet-weaving machines. Additionally, at booth C11 in Hall E5 Group member DEIMO will exhibit state-of-the-art electronic drives and control solutions mainly for textile machines.

Jacquard machines Four complete Jacquard installations on weaving machines will be demonstrated at the large 625 m2 two-level Stäubli stand in Hall E2. As a world premier, visitors can see the production of lining fabric on a Jacquard machine type SX equipped with a specific harness with 12,600 cords, in conjunction with a water-jet weaving machine operating at a rate of approximately 1,000 weft insertions per minute. The weaving machine and the Jacquard machine are both operated by individual electronically synchronized drives, which is the special feature of this set-up. The second installation is equipped with a type LX3202 Jacquard machine with 12,288 hooks and Stäubli harness weaving tapestry and

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upholstery fabric on a 180 cm wide rapier weaving machine. The third installation consists of a rapier weaving machine and a type SX Jacquard machine with a Stäubli harness of 13,450 cords producing 220 cm wide car seat fabric. And the fourth is a type SX electronic Jacquard machine with 2,688 hooks and Stäubli harness of 6,000 cords weaving car seat fabric 190 cm in width on an air-jet weaving machine operating at approximately 1,000 weft insertions per minute. As usual, the Stäubli booth is constructed with two storeys. From the upper level, visitors can have a detailed look at the Jacquard units in operation with these four machines. At a special demonstration stand the full range of Stäubli harness types will be shown with a type DX Jacquard machine including harness for any standard application. At another demonstration stand the LX32

type Jacquard machine for weaving narrow fabrics such as ribbons and labels will be shown with 192 hooks and harness with 4 repeats. Dobbies and cam motions The third generation of Stäubli’s rotary dobbies, the S3060/3260 series, is to be seen with many application examples at the Stäubli stand and at those of many weaving machine manufacturers. This new generation of rotary dobbies reaches new heights of performance and reliability. To complete the picture of Stäubli shedding systems, the refined positive cam motion type 1681 and the universal positive rotary dobby type 2658 are being demonstrated at the booth. Weaving preparation systems The mobile automatic drawing-in machine SAFIR S30, already a dependable workhorse in many filament mills in China and the Far East, can be seen in operation at the Stäubli booth. The warp-tying process will be demonstrated with two warp-tying machines: MAGMA for technical and coarser yarn counts and the proven TOPMATIC for standard applications, handling even the finest yarns. The warp leasing process for warps that require a lease for further processing can be seen on the OPAL multilayer leasing machine, which inserts a 1:1 lease in warps with up to 8 layers, including colour detection.

120

sürekli olarak ölçme suretiyle önemli oranda

ve kalite verilerini sunan iplik gerilim ölçüm sis-

ve pikler boyama problemleri ile sonuçlanabi-

kalite durumunun tespit edilebilmesi için çok -

The most important quality parameter in texturing is the correct yarn tension. Abnormal tension levels and peaks result in dyeing problems. During production many problems can accumulate, which are not easily recognised. Without process tension control, these faults are usually only detected later in the fabric. A tension control offers many options for obtaining a clear overview of production and quality situations at any time. The increased quality demanded for textured yarns, the use of

new materials and of microfilaments, together with an increase in texturing speeds, requires quality controls that are more and more extensive. The quality control procedures, which are sometimes very labour intensive, can be substantially reduced by using on-line process monitoring, e.g. by measuring yarn tension continuously. In the case of Win-OLT, Retech has developed a yarn tension measuring system that continuously monitors yarn tension, records yarn breaks, calculates downtimes

121

analizi ve iplik geriliminin her konumda kayde-

te veya gerilimi için elde edilen trend çizgisi ile problemler tahmin edebilir ve bu araçlar kulla-

and provides machine efficiency and quality data. Retech AG originally invented this system in the early 1980’s thereafter distributed in most countries in partnership with TEMCO until 2009. Subsequently Retech AG itself approached the worldwide market very successfully to the satisfaction of the customers. Retech AG provides the OLT sensor itself as a standard product as well as the entire Win-OLT system. The measuring principle of the Retech sensors is based on the Hall effect. A spring with a small magnet is deflected as a result of changes in the yarn tension that occur during process. This causes a different magnetic field in the Hall sensor, which in turn changes the output signal ( 0-10 volt . ) Minimum long –term drift, maintenance free and easily to repair are advantages of this measuring principle and the sensors are in addition to this unaffected by spin finish, yarn residues or snow. After the input of all process parameters and the start of production, WinOLT monitors the yarn tension at every position 50 times per second. If the number of pre-defined faults is exceeded, it will be clearly recorded in the table and indicated both by the sensor LED and a bright alarm indicator located on top of the cabinet. If a machine has been fitted with a quality level yarn-cutting device, WinOLT will then, when requested, cut the yarn for these instances. If there are unknown problems with

machine positions, WinOLT offers a graphical option to find the origin of the fault. The advantages of a continuously controlled tension cannot be dismissed at all.100 % quality control during production is only one aspect. Also waste can be substantially reduced due to the early detection and as a matter of course is the software and the hardware extremely user-friendly with a wide range of facilities for fault detection by application of user defined parameters. The analysis of production data and the recording of yarn tension at all position enables long-term analysis. The evaluations of OLT data can be extended up to 75 doff. In this way faulty positions within each machine become obvious. Trend line for yarn breaks, quality or tension can predict problems that are just developing, and with this means preventive actions can be started in time. The new evaluation program developed by Retech AG at this times, will show more flexibility and will be even more operator friendly. Newly the evaluation of the data can be chosen arbitrary of a time period. More than one day can be selected. In General the analysis will give an overview of efficiency information and shifts. That means that the customer can filter data and compare these data of every shift related to machine efficiency and product quality. The qualities will

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dislik ekibi ile mevcut makinalar için mükem-

be classified in quality A, B C and newly also in a best quality A with not even one event. The take up overview will be amended with more important production information to ensure a perfect analysis of every doff and every shift. This new evaluation system guarantees a perfect quality classification and an impeccable

error analysis. The customer will be able to react early and an early pay pack is assured. The Win-OLT system consists of a sensor for various tension ranges ( 0-60 cN, 0-120 cN, 0-240 cN and specialities ), microprocessor with yarn cutters and doffing sub-units and a central control cabinet with computer system and printer together with the Windows based OLTsoftware in various languages. Retech AG is able to provide you an individual solution for different kind of production units. The system fits new machines as well as older types and a good team of engineers will elaborate the perfect solution for the existing machines. Retech AG has the experience in the application of its Win OLT system in many different industrial machines. Not only false twist texturing machines are predestined, also air texturing machines can be equipped, where the small Retech sensor fits perfectly and the online monitoring can be achieved easily. However texturing is not the only use for this system. It is also suitable for monitoring the yarn tension in other textile processes. Examples of this are spinning, winding, covering and draw twisting, among others. Also in the BCF process the Retech sensor can be found and works to the customer’s satisfaction. Quality control in many kinds of textile processes means Win-OLT: The industry standard for high quality and optimised production.

meler, leke çözücüsü olarak da bilinen klor-

In the textile industry – in Europe and in many countries around the world – partial contamination on clothes is removed using chlorinated hydrocarbons generally known as spotting solvents. These solvents are applied to the fabric by high-pressure guns, but also a cloth or a brush soaked in solvent may be used. Typically, the fabric is left to dry by natural evaporation.

This method has been considered convenient, simple and fast, but it is also a fact that these solvents pose a severe risk to user health and environment safety. Since the early 90s in Germany, it is forbidden to use chlorinated hydrocarbons for stain removal in open spaces, and throughout Europe the regulation is very stringent. These constraints were absolutely neces-

ne tip bir temizleme maddesinin uygun olaca-

sary, but at the same time confronted the textile industry with a problem of how to effectively manage spot removal under these changed conditions. The biggest problem in view of an alternative, gentle cleaner is the insufficient evaporation of the cleaning liquid. An immediate drying of the treated textile is therefore essential to avoid annoying spot marks. The Swiss company Theo KREBS AG, also known under the brand name „KREBS Switzerland“, has early faced the challenge of innovative spot removal systems and respectively found innovative solutions via permanent product development initiatives. Since 30 years KREBS Switzerland is present on the global market for effective stain removal in textile finishing and garment production. Today KREBS offers handy spot cleaning spray guns and larger systems with integrated drying in combination with dedicated solvent liquids. For the development of these systems KREBS worked in close collaboration with the textile manufacturers, chemical industry as well as the re-known Hohenstein Research Institute. The mechanical effect of the pulsating spray jet of the electric hand spray gun or of the larger spotting system, coupled with the KREBS spot removal chemistry, today enable the easy handling of

stain removal. Suitable for every kind of fabric, they allow the best possible cleaning process and are safe for the environment. The use of cleaning equipment is based on two different types of cleaning products: 1. The KREBS Cleaner 580: a solvent hydrocarbon based with a flash point of >61 ° C. (not dangerous for transport) – or 2. The KREBS CV concentrate: a surfactant, which is diluted in water and is heated inside the KREBS machine (gun or system ). This means that you clean with hot detergent solution. What kind of cleaning agent is suitable for which kind of stain and fabric needs to be determined individually. KREBS Cleaner 580: the basic detergent The KREBS Cleaner 580 is a hydrocarbon-based solvent. The solvent, approved according to directives and endorsed by the Hohenstein Research Institute, has excellent dissolving properties for all kinds of oil and fatty stains. Its effectiveness equals that of 1,1,1 trichloroethane. The mechanical impact of the pulsating spray jet and the fast drying system prevents the creation of stain marks. Compared to 1,1,1 trichloroethane this type of stain remover entails less risk of surface damage. It should be noted that hydrocarbons dry slower than halogenated

126

hydrocarbons, which is why devices with integrated drying facilities, such as the systems of KREBS, are recommended. Halogenated hydrocarbons such as 1,1,1 trichloroethane are prohibited, because of their ozone depleting effect. KREBS Cleaner 580 it is not dangerous according to ADR / RID and does not contain substances listed in REACH Candidate list. The flash point is >61 째 C, the ignition point > 200 째 C. KREBS CV-concentrate: the high performance detergent Thanks to the fat-dissolving properties of surfactants, virtually all water-based stains can be removed with the KREBS CV detergent Concentrate. Environmentally friendly, odorless, skin friendly and cost efficient are other important features. The agent can be dilut-

ed with tap water in a ratio of 1:100 to 1:50. Transportation, storage and proper handling of the product are uncritical. It is not subject to regulations for solvents. The surface agent and the special detergent booster dissolve the dirt and hold it in abeyance. The stain is then dissolved by the warm detergent solution and removed by the pulsating jet. The liquid is ideal for use with the gun KREBS TEX -4 or the systems KREBS 1000 and KREBS Duo. KREBS K1 bis K4: Special stain remover for persistent stains In addition to the previously described basic agents, KREBS Switzerland offers a variety of special spotting agents (K1 to K4) to solve specific constituents of the most persistent stains. With all four types of spotting agents, it is important to

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krem, bira, çikolata, kakao, ter, kir pigmenti, leke idrar ve ilgili malzemelerden kaynaklanan lekekola, meyve suyu, meyve, likör, tütün, ot, par-

apply the liquid in small doses on the stain and then remove it with water or detergent solution. Just a few drops are sufficient to do the job. The K1 is the spot remover for grease and paint stains, especially against persistent oil- based stains, such as machine oil, grease, makeup, lipstick, nail polish, pens and other staining substances. K2 is effective against stains of blood, protein, food residue, fish and meat sauces, milk, ice cream, cream, beer, chocolate, cocoa, sweat, dirt pigment, spot urine and related substances. The agent K3 helps against tannin and tanninlike stains caused by coffee, tea, wine, cola, fruit juice, fruit, liqueurs, tobacco, grass, perfumes, medicines and similar substances. KREBS spot removal liquid K4 is dedicated to rust, verdigris and other metal oxide stains. The environmentally friendly stain remover either hydrocarbon or detergent based are integral part of KREBS system together with the pulsating mechanical action. The synergistic effect of the two allows a safe, fast and efficient removal of all kind of stains, even from sensitive surfaces. The ringless stain removal with KREBS hand spray gun or the larger stain removal systems, thanks to its user friendliness, can be performed also by nonprofessionals without any risk of damaging the materials. It protects the operator‘s health, the

health of the customer wearing the cleaned garment, and is safer for the environment than the old halogenated solvents. Founded in 1946, KREBS has been a leading producer of quality professional electric spray systems for paint, food materials and textile production stain removal. The distinctive KREBS Switzerland logo is recognized in the world over for its promise of high quality electric spray technology products. Each product is manufactured in Switzerland, using quality components and is tested before leaving the factory thereby ensuring reliability and long life. The textile spot removal KREBS Switzerland also excels in producing fast and economical spot removal solutions for garment and textile producers, with a wide range of electric guns, integrated systems and halogen free cleaning liquids. Customers of KREBS systems include factories producing for brands like Boss, Nike, Olymp, Triumph International, Marccain and Marks & Spencer. KREBS environment friendly systems enable stains like sewing machine oil, caused during garment production, to be removed safely thereby avoiding the risk that the clothes that you purchase contain dangerous cleaning chemicals.

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PANORAMA

New York futures and the A Index increased last month. Other benchmark prices were flat

With the increase, values shifted to the high end of the range between 76 and 80 cents/lb that

surged in early March. The nearby May contract climbed above 91 cents/lb after increasing three cents/lb on March 6th. In recent trading, the May contract has held onto these gains and nearby prices are at their highest since ear-

The A Index increased three cents/lb last month, climbing from values near 94 cents/lb in early February to those above 97 cents/lb in early ues around 19,465 RMB/ton in domestic terms. February, however, marked the first monthly decline in the RMB against the dollar in a year, and the CC Index decreased slightly in international

contract, which reflect price expectations for the 2014/15 crop year, also rose in early March.

131

Ăśnemli revizyonlara yer verilirken bu de-

terms (from 146 cents/lb to 144 cents/lb). were stable in international terms (near 88 cents/lb) and slightly lower in domestic terms last month (from around 43,000 stani spot rates have been stable at levels near 81 cents/lb (6,850 PRK/maund). SUPPLY, DEMAND, & TRADE In the USDAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest monthly report, there were no country-level revisions to production figures over 100,000 bales. The global harvest estimate was essentially unchanged at 116.7 million. There were significant country-level changes for consumption, including those for China (-500,000 bales, to 35.5 million), Pakistan (-500,000 bales, 11.0 million), Bangladesh (+200,000 bales, to 3.9 million), and India (+250,000 bales, to 23.3 million). Globally, these revisions pulled the world mill-use number 270,000 bales lower, from 109.5 million bales to 109.2 million. In terms of trade, there was an important 200,000 bale increase to the U.S. export figure

132

PANORAMA

(to 10.7 million). Strong U.S. export sales and shipments data in recent weeks have been credited with pulling New York futures prices higher by implying U.S. ending stocks would be lower than previous USDA forecasts. With this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s increase to the export figure, the current USDA forecast for U.S. ending stocks was lowered 200,000 bales. At 2.8 million, the current U.S. ending stocks estimate predicts the second lowest level of available supply since 1995/96 (was 2.6 million in 2010/11). With the U.S. being the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest exporter, the tightness in U.S. stocks can be expected to keep upward pressure on world prices for the remainder of the 2013/14 crop year. Nonetheless, the increase in U.S. exports was offset by decreased export expectations for Australia (- 100,000, to 3.8 million) and Uzbekistan (-100,000, to 2.7 million). PRICE OUTLOOK The USDA released a partial set of preliminary forecasts for the 2014/15 crop year at their annual Outlook Forum

PANORAMA

February 21st. These figures appear in the balance sheets on the first page of this report and are discussed below. In the coming crop year, world production is projected to increase marginally (from 116.7 million bales in 2013/14 to 117.0 million in 2014/15). Consumption is expected to increase more dramatically (from 109.2 bales in 2013/14 to 113.0 million in 2014/15), but production is stil expected to exceed consumption for a fifth consecutive crop year. Correspondingly, ending stocks are forecast to increase, and the USDA estimates stocks will climb above 100 million bales for the first time (from 96.8 million bales in 2013/14 to 100.5 million bales in 2014/15). Central to the USDAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s early estimates for the coming crop year are assumptions regarding Chinese cotton policy and how China may or may not choose to implement reforms to reduce reserves. The USDA is expecting China to take a gradual approach to reform and estimates China will finish 2014/15 (57.7 million) with approximately the same volume of cotton held in stocks when it finished 2013/14 (57.8 million). Key to 2014/15 price direction is Chinese import demand. Due to WTO obligations, China is required to allow in 4.1 million bales (894,000 tons) each year.

Any additional cotton fiber allowed into the country beyond this amount is determined by the Chinese government or is subject to a high 40% tariff. Given that Chinese mills may need some cotton qualities that are not available domestically, the Chinese government could be expected to release import quota equal to a couple million bales beyond the WTO-mandated volume. A figure near six million bales could be considered a lower-bound estimate for Chinese imports. The USDA is projecting China to import 8.0 million bales in 2014/15. The supply situation outside of China has also proven important to global cotton prices. In the coming crop year, production outside of China is forecast to expand 1.9 million bales, with the largest country-level increase from the U.S. (+3.1 million bales, from 13.2 to 16.3). Ending stocks outside China are forecast to increase 10.0%, and the increase in exportable supply should imply lower cotton prices. Expectations for lower prices in 2014/15 can be seen in the New York futures market, where prices for the December 2014 contract, the first to expire after the 2014/15 harvest begins being collected, have been consistently trading at levels 10 cents/lb below those for the 2013/14 crop.

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PANORAMA

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