From Palermo to Messina across the mountains

Palermo ➜ Bagheria

S. Elia Porticello Port.la Costa Trabia

T.re di Gallo

Solanto

2.2

S. Flavia

2.3

2.1

M. la Citta'

M. Catalfano

T.re Mondello C.se De Spucches

M. d'Aspra

M. Irice

C.se Parisi Alte

Cozzo S. Pietro

Angio

Cas.a Rammacca

Mongerbino tower

1.7

M. Consona

Aspra

1.6

C.se Incorvino

Bagheria

M. Giancaldo Cozzo Brigandi

C.Se Marino

M. Lanzirotti

C.se Don Santo C.se Lorenzo Eleuterio river

T.re Cordova

P.zo Cannita

C.se Quattrociocchi

Ficarazzi

C.se Grasso

E90

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Portella di Mare

C.se Fontanelle 1.5

Villabate P.zo Cicerello

Pomara

Corsaro tower

Libero Grassi park Tyrrhenian sea

C.se Lo Vico Croce Verde Regia Corte Torre Valdaura

1.4

Bandita

Roccella Sperone

Ciaculli M. Grofone

Torrelunga P.zo Crocchiola

Brancaccio

1.3

S. Erasmo 1.2

Fondo Brasca Dragotta Gentile Saccone

P.so Forbice

Belmonte Chiavelli B.O Meli

1.1

B.O Chiaranda

Palermo

Falsomiele

B.O di Gregorio B.O Vitali

M. Starrabba

Pagliarelli

lo

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1,400 1,200 1,000

BAGHERIA

200

ASPRA

400

LIBERO GRASSI PARK

600

AMMIRAGLIO BRIDGE

800

PALERMO

o

From Palermo to Bagheria

0m 0 km

DISTANCE:

5

10

19.3km

GRADIENT: ASCENT 94m DESCENT 43m

moderate 5% UNSEALED 95% SEALED

DIFFICULTY: SURFACE:

Public transport AMAT, metro and urban buses, www.amat.pa.it.

TO BAGHERIA: Trenitalia, Palermo–Agrigento line, Bagheria stop, 40 runs daily, www.trenitalia.it.

PALERMO:

Amenities Centre for Pilgrim Accommodation, ph. +39 339-73.11.401, Salvatore Balsamo.

Palermo Tourist Office, Via Principe di Belmonte 92, Mon–Fri 8:00am–2:30pm, closed Sat–Sun, ph. +39 091-58.51.72, infotourism.pa@gmail.com, www.cittametropolitana.pa.it/turismo.

Cathedral Tourist Information, information and credential stamp at the cathedral ticket office, weekdays 9:00am–5:30pm, holidays 9:00am–1:00pm.

BAGHERIA: Tourist Office–Info Point, Palazzo Butera, Via Dammuselli 2.

Tourist Office, citbagheria.it.

Medical Centre, Via Papa Giovanni XXIII 130, ph. +39 091-99.13.39.

Paramedics, Via Liszt 32, ph. +39 091-99.13.16, after 8:00pm.

PALERMO:

15

20

25

30

Paramedics Aspra Village, Via S. Diego di California, ph. +39 091-99.13.17, after 8:00pm.

Where to stay Hostel La Casa di Paolo, Via Vetriera 57, ph. +39 091-77.72.535 / 338-71.53.787, casadipaolo.pa@gmail.com, €, (Y), (K).

Hostel and B&B A Casa di Amici, Via Dante 57, ph. +39 091-58.48.84, info@ acasadiamici.com, €€ and €€€, (Y), (K).

B&B Terrazza Sui Normanni, Via Cadorna 63, ph. +39 339-44.41.154, terrazzasuinormanni@gmail.com, €€, (Y), (K).

B&B Olivella Suite–Ecological House, Via Sperlinga 30, ph. +39 327-01.54.829, ignazio_pinelli@libero.it, €€, (Y), (K).

Casa Monacelli, Cortile Monacelli 20, ph. +39 328-30.35.769, antonioalfano33@ gmail.com, €€, (Y), (K).

BAGHERIA: Accommodation Casa Cutò, Via Cortile Zangara 3, ph. +39 333-34.69.261, arcuri.michele@hotmail.it, €€, (Y), (K).

B&B Le Stanze del Capostazione, Via Stazione, ph. +39 331-81.73.101, lestanzedelcapostazione@gmail.com, €€, (Y), (K).

B&B Arena, Via S. Aldisio 10, ph. +39 329-74.44.524, info@ bedandbreakfastarena.it, €€, (Y).

PALERMO:

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Palermo ➜ Bagheria

On the way out of Palermo’s chaotic city centre, we follow Via Valeria, the ancient Roman consular road, which coincides entirely with today’s SS 113. After crossing the Oreto river, the border of the old city, the long track runs alongside the coastline, which unfortunately is completely built up. The kilometres of bitumen are partially offset by the sea views that follows us throughout this leg of the walk. Alternatively, there is the train with its slow speed, which follows the same route to the lower section of the “city of villas”.

The Palermo–Messina Way across the mountains begins in the square of PALERMO’s cathedral (km 0–26m a.s.l.): the entire architectural complex is devoted to the Assumption of Mary and occupies the upper part of the Cassaro, a place from which to oversee the city, chosen by all the peoples who governed this landing. Inside the cathedral, in addition to viewing its treasures, you can get the credential stamp confirming your departure, symbolising an auspicious arrival in the Strait of Messina.

We leave the cathedral courtyards behind us and follow the entire block on our right, walking a short segment of Via Vittorio Emanuele, as far as Piazza della Vittoria. We turn left and walk alongside the archaeological site of Villa Bonanno, with its historic palms and the remnants of the Roman villas on the right, and the buildings of the police headquarters and the military command on the left. We walk uphill along Via Sant’Elisabetta and Vicolo Quartararo, on the left, for ca. 60m. We turn left at the tobacconist’s and follow Via di Porta di Castro slightly downhill, beneath which flows the ancient river, Kemonia. We continue for 270m, until the small square with the murals; from here we continue along Via Zuppetta, which coasts along the historic Ballarò market, leading us to Via di Casa Professa.

We reach the square and the church of Gesù, the Jesuit college and the nearby catacombs of Saint Michele; we turn left into Vicolo Casa Professa. After 60m, we follow Via Università on the right, which we traverse entirely until we cross Via Maqueda, one of Palermo’s major roads. We walk past the road and across Piazza Bellini and the stunning monuments of the UNESCO Arab-Norman trail (the churches of Saint Cataldo and Saint Maria dell’Ammiraglio or Martorana), and continue downhill along the cobblestoned Discesa dei Giudici, which takes us to Via Roma. Once we cross this second major city road, we follow Via Sant’Anna for ca. 270m, then turn left into Via dei Corrieri, which for centuries has led to Sicily’s postal courier building. Along the alleys leading to Via Paternostro, we reach Piazza San Francesco all’Immacolata [1.1-km 1.5].

We traverse the entire space before the church and continue, bearing right, in Via Merlo for ca. 120m; we turn right on Via Principe di Resuttano, then into Via Castrofilippo, directly behind the church of 36

Palermo ➜ Bagheria

PALERMO.

Arab domes and natural stone in the church of Saint Cataldo.

Magione Teutonica. We follow Via Rao and turn left into Via Lincoln; a bit further on, we follow Via Archirafi for 580m. We are about to exit the old city through its natural border: the Oreto river.

We turn right into Via Tiro a Segno, and after 200m, we reach Corso dei Mille [1.2-km 3] and the new bridge over the Oreto. We use the shared path on the left to cross the bridge, then cross the road, bearing right, and admire the medieval Ammiraglio bridge, which is also part of Palermo’s UNESCO listed sites. Keeping the perfectly preserved structure to our left, we continue along Corso dei Mille for 320m, then turn left into Via Salvatore Cappello, which surrounds one side of the medieval church of Saint Giovanni dei Lebbrosi. In 500m we reach the SS 113, which is still known today as Via Messina Marine [1.3-km 4.2].

We turn right and walk along the left sidewalk, following the road to Messina for ca. 3.4km. The route continues on flat terrain alongside the beach, as far as the tourist marina of Bandita. In 210m [1.4-km 7.6] we turn left into an unsealed path that allows us to leave bitumen and cars behind, and admire Palermo from a singular perspective. For 1.2km the path leads us through the Libero Grassi park, a green oasis and a place of remembrance and social activism.

At km 8.8, we resume the hike along the SS 113, walking along the left side of the road, in the opposite direction to the traffic, for ca. 2km.

We follow a very busy road in an area that, over time, has become densely populated, overrun by industry and water treatment plants, as far as the intersection with Via Meli, then Via Libertà, [1.5-km 11] immediately after the border between the municipalities of Palermo and Ficarazzi. We turn left, setting sight on the sea, and continue along Viale Europa, which although it is sealed, enables us to walk alongside 37

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Palermo ➜ Bagheria

BAGHERIA.

Villa Aragona Cutò, in the city centre, hosts art exhibitions.

the sea for 2.6km. Ficarazzi’s modern bridge, which marks the border with the municipality of Bagheria, gives us access to the seaside village of Aspra.

We follow the SP 74 (Corso Italia) for 1.8km, reaching the centre of Aspra and the marina, with its typical boats moored on the beach [1.6-km 16]. Here we turn right and begin walking uphill, slowly reaching the centre of Bagheria. For 730m, we follow Via Zara, then continue along Viale Sant’Isidoro, until the entrance to the Villa by the same name [1.7-km 16.7]. We turn left at the main road of Sant’Isidoro, which we follow all the way to Corso Baldassarre Scaduto. We turn right and, in 2.3km, we reach the forecourt of the main church in BAGHERIA.

What to see Palermo Of the many places on offer in the city, we recommend visiting the Arab-Norman monuments designated together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site links three cultures, Greek-Byzantine, unmentioned though present, Islamic and Norman-Christian. The CATHEDRAL, built in 1184, is a true palimpsest of all the dominions that Palermo has seen, and retains both medieval features as well as those of the late Gothic period, of which the portal is an example. It houses the relics of the Santuzza (Saint Rosalia), patron saint of the city, and other religious martyrs such as the blessed Don Pino Puglisi, and is connected to the Palazzo Vescovile.

The PALAZZO REALE or Dei Normanni, was built in the 10th century AD by the emirs; it then passed into the hands of the Norman royals, who designated it as a live-in castle; since the time of Roger II, it has been 38

Palermo ➜ Bagheria

the seat of the Sicilian parliament, and since 1946, the seat of the Sicilian Regional Assembly. The CAPPELLA PALATINA, adjoined to the palace and devoted to the saints Peter and Paul, is entirely decorated with gold mosaic tiles, including a majestic Christ Pantocrator.

The two churches of SAINT CATALDO and SANTA MARIA DELL’AMMIRAGLIO are magnificent examples of mixed and changing architectural styles.

The first, built in 1154 under William I, remained unfinished and the bare stone is still on display; the other, home to a diocese of Greek denomination, came under the control of the nearby Benedictine monastery of Martorana, after which it is named.

Also noteworthy are the CATACOMBS OF SAINT MICHELE ARCANGELO beneath the church by the same name, and the CHURCH OF GESÙ with the adjoining CASA PROFESSA, both built above the ruins of the Norman abbey of Saint Maria della Grotta. The CHURCH OF SAINT FRANCIS OF ASSISI, is testament to the island’s Franciscan artistic wave, nowadays it incorporates the convent and a rich library with medieval and Sicilian texts. The CHURCH OF THE SANTISSIMA TRINITÀ aka DELLA MAGIONE, mansio theutonicorum, built in the 12th century, was a convent and home to the Teutonic Knights who arrived in Palermo with the escort of the Swabian Emperor Henry VI. To complete the sightseeing tour: the PONTE DELL’AMMIRAGLIO (1130–1140) over the Oreto and connecting the city to the neighbourhoods across the river; the CHURCH OF SAINT GIOVANNI DEGLI EREMITI, one of Palermo’s most iconic monuments, built between 1130 and 1148 and comprehensively restored in the late 19th century.

Also noteworthy, on the route exiting the city, near the Torre dei Corsari (an ancient brick factory), is the LIBERO GRASSI park, dedicated to those who opposed the mafia’s racketeering, paying with their lives for their courage.

Bagheria The city, famous for its 17th-century villas, welcomes us in the seaside suburb of ASPRA, connected to fishing with the traditional prue latine boats, and processing anchovies. A short walk from the beach is the ANCHOVY MUSEUM, a place to remember the commitment of generations of fishermen, salters and fishing industry workers.

Accompanied by the guitar of Michelangelo Balistreri, the guide and soul of the museum, wayfarers can learn about the meaning of traditional actions and objects used at sea for a long time.

Arriving in Bagheria, from the Arab bāb al-gerib, doorway of the wind, we notice the urban plan is a result of skilful work and architectural interlocking. Among the few villas that can be visited are VILLA CATTOLICA , home to Renato Guttuso’s permanent exhibition, and VILLA PALAGONIA , famous for its hundreds of grotesque and monstrous sculptures.

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