April / May 2015

R E S P O N S I B L E

April - May 2015 edition

be the difference

Celebrating

WINNERS

of responsible tourism

w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a

responsible travel responsible travel

©Harry Stone with Marine Dynamics

“I met one of my favourite White Sharks in 2007, a young, 2m long female we named Nemo. She arrived with very bad injuries, missing her left pectoral fin and had a dorsal fin sliced in half, possibly from encountering a longliner. She seemed so fragile.

In 2011, I couldn’t believe my eyes when Nemo reappeared measuring over 4m in length!

She had put on a good couple hundred kilos. We managed to deploy a satellite tag on her which recorded an epic migration - in just two months from leaving Gansbaai, Nemo was hanging about off the Madagascan coastline!”

Alison Towner | Marine Biologist, Marine Dynamics

www.discoverctwc.co.za discoverctwc @discoverctwc discoverctwc #discoverctwc

Comment Welcome to the Tourism Indaba edition of Responsible Traveller…

What an awesome continent Africa is!

Wonderful wildlife, wonderful places and wonderful people – this edition gets to celebrate the winners of the very first AFRICAN RESPONSIBLE TOURISM AWARDS held at WTM Africa recently. We get to visits a few of these spectacular places and meet with a few of these amazing people – through the words of some of the regions favourite bloggers. People who are committed to conservation, ensuring that Africa’s wildlife will still be here for the next generation to appreciate and enjoy. Those that operate travel businesses, large and small, ever mindful of their impact on the environment. And those that take delight in sharing their culture and environment with travellers who take the time to listen.

Travel is not just about ticking off a wish list of places to visit and things to see and do. Responsible travel is about the experience, it’s about connecting with the destination and the people without impacting negatively on the environment. It’s about considering other peoples’ cultures to be as important as your own, learning from, and about them. Each individual you meet on your travels has a story to tell, about the projects they are involved in, the environment they live in and their experiences.

The traveller who takes the time to connect, ask questions and listen will take home more than just beautiful but meaningless pictures, they will have seen Africa’s wonderful wildlife understanding how important conservation is. They will have walked up mountains, along beaches and in the bush, seen delicate wildflowers up close, felt the sand under foot and breathed in the intoxicating smell of the African bush. They would have had an enriching and memorable experience, for sure.

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

Magazine Information April - May 2015 edition Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

tessa

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published bi-monthly

Cover Image: Proteas - Gansbaai pic - Gansbaai Tourism / Riaan Jacobs ©

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

responsible traveller 03

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Contents Awareness:

60

Comment 03 Being a Responsible Traveller 06 Reflecting on the African Responsible Tourism Awards 2015 14 African Responsible Tourism Awards Winners 19

Destinations & Places to Stay: Experience Gansbaai - small town with a big heart 36 Grootbos Private Nature Reserve 46 Chumbe Island: Marine Ecotourism at its Best 60 Implementing ecotourism at Chobe Game Lodge 68 The Wonders of Baleni 78 Sandton Indaba 86

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Adventures & Activities: Shark Cage Diving - a wet thrill or conservation exploit? 52 Conservation internships & volunteering experiences 66 Table Mountain’s commitment to responsible tourism 74 The Cape Route ... less travelled 90

News:

Mandela Day Million Meals Challenge 58 Wupperthal’s Champion Reil Dance Troupe 84 Save a life in your sleep for Malaria Day 92 Turkish Airlines to fly direct from Cape Town 93

www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

Awarded

World’s Best City Hotel World Responsible Tourism Awards l World Travel Market 2014

In the unlikely location of Cape Town’s Airport Industria, Africa’s Greenest Hotel is waiting to be discovered by you. Enjoy the comfort of our 4 star hotel with 5 star services & 3 star prices. Stay at Hotel Verde, the first Hotel in Africa to offer carbon neutral accommodation & conferencing to guests.

An experience like no other By staying one night at Hotel Verde you will personally Offset 27.4 kg of carbon

Save 76 kWh of electrcity

Save 492 liters of water*

divert 2.1 kg waste from landfill

*saving accounts for guest water use across the entire hotel

Carbon Neutral Accommodation & Conferencing l 145 Rooms & 7 Conference Venues l 400m from Cape Town Airport Complimentary Airport Shuttle & Shuttle to City Centre l Complimentary Wi-Fi l Urban Beehives & Urban Farming Restored Wetland l Restaurant with 24hr Room Service l Breakfast from 4h30am l Contemporary Bar 24hr Deli l Indoor & Outdoor Gym l Africa’s First Power Generating Gym Equipment l Jogging Trail, Eco Pool & Terrace

reservations@hotelverde.com l +27 (0) 21 380 5500 l www.hotelverde.com 15 MICHIGAN STREET, CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, SOUTH AFRICA

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

06 responsible traveller

• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

RT

On your next holiday, consider the road less travelled..

Being a Responsible Traveller

Travelling can be stressful at most times, but responsible travel choices are a way of ensuring that your travels don’t stress the environment or host communities.

By choosing to be a responsible traveller, you are contributing to the sustainable future of Africa and to the long-term development of your host destination.

Next time you travel, select properties and facilities that have been independently certified on their social, cultural and environmental performance.

GreenLine is South Africa’s leading responsible tourism certification programme for accommodation facilities and our members are independently monitored to ensure that they meet the highest standard of responsible business practice in an effort to ensure that tourism benefits all.

learn more about your

destination, its people and cultures.

respect the dignity of others and ask before taking photo’s

dress appropriately, particularly at religious or cultural sites

dispose of your waste responsibly - recycle where possible

minimise your use of water and electricity

support local tour guides where available

don’t buy goods made from endangered or threatened species

support local entrepreneurs, crafters and curio shops

avoid giving cash donations - rather become involved or give in-kind Take only pictures, leave only footprints!

For more information on how you can be more responsible about your travel choices, visit www.greenline-rt.com today and help us make southern Africa the most responsible destination globally.

The Heritage Environmental Management Company tel: +27 012 667 6658 fax: +27 086 610 7120 e: info@heritagesa.co.za web: www.greenline-rt.com

VERDE HOTELS

Africa’s first sustainable hotel management group Nobody can deny that climate change will affect the hospitality market place – with global warming, resource volatility, extreme weather events, water scarcity and biodiversity loss part of our new vocabulary, it is essential we take cognisance of this and bring about rapid interventions. Challenged, but seeing climate change as a significant opportunity, Verde Hotels have launched a new management and expansion programme offering ‘Thrivable Hospitality Solutions’.

green building and operating practices, as demonstrated in the international multiple award winning HOTEL VERDE, at Cape Town International Airport; Africa’s Greenest Hotel.

VERDE HOTELS offers investors, developers and hotel owners the opportunity to become leaders in world–class sustainable design and responsible operations. The first company in Africa to have the knowledge to build internationally recognised and certified 08 responsible traveller

“It is the strong belief of the Verde Hotels team and myself,” says Samantha, “that the hotel industry has changed, and that we simply cannot build or operate hotels in the same way we have done for the past twenty years. Verde Hotels is the future of hospitality.”

Verde Hotels teams luxury with sustainability whilst being profitable on the triple bottom line. Companies with proactive environmental strategies have a 4% higher return on investment, 9% higher sales growth and 17% higher operating growth than companies with poor environmental track records.

‘... the hotel industry has changed, and that we simply cannot build or operate hotels in the same way we have done for the past twenty years.’

Hotel Verde Aquaponics responsible traveller 09

Hotel Verde geothermal header

Projects taken on by Verde Hotels will be operated and managed by Verde Hotels through the thrivable hospitality model. Both New Constructions and Retrofits will take on the Verde name either as a fully branded Hotel Verde or as an independent run by the Verde Hotels group.

NEW CONSTRUCTION Building green from the below the ground up is the smartest & most effective way to ensure that every aspect of your building design, construction & operation will be as sustainable as possible. Some of the many aspects considered,

by Verde Hotels in a new construction include: energy efficiency, water efficiency, mechanical systems performance, ongoing indoor environmental quality, alternative transportation programs, green purchasing practices, waste avoidance, re-use and recycling programs, management of toxic substances, whole-building cleaning and maintenance.

RETROFITTING AN EXISTING BUILDING Existing buildings represent a large portion of the broader property market. The existing building model allows hotel owners and property managers to address their commitment to sustainability and consider the vast improvements in design, cost and operation 10 responsible traveller

Hotel Verde PV panels on the roof

that can be achieved. Re-use is a prominent sustainability strategy as it avoids possible demolition and use of virgin material as well as production and transportation impacts associated with new constructions. When greening an existing building, many of the same principles and innovations used in a new construction will apply.

THRIVABILITY Their business model relies on the thrivability which encompasses people, profit and the planet. Verde Hotels uses advanced, environmentally conscious construction and operational practices. With expertise on the LEED rating system and the implementation of a hotel carbon management programme, Verde Hotels can assure the implementation of a thrivable business model.

According to Jean Russell, who published Thrivability: Breaking Through to a World that Works in 2013, thrivability is not a simple language shift from the word sustainability.

There’s a significant overlap between the two concepts: “the language of sustainability is about neutralizing. THRIVABILITY IS ABOUT SUCCEEDING”. Thrivability is at the leading edge of green hospitality, and offers innovative, pioneering and differentiated solutions.

Hotel Verde wind turbines

Hotel Verde grey water recycling

A thrivable hotel will be one that will have: a lower energy consumption through the use of renewable energy generation and energy saving fixtures and technologies; will save water through rain water capture, grey water recycling and water saving fixtures and will protect natural resources through using renewable and alternate resources where possible and by initiating biodiversity projects. It will have enhanced environmental quality through better indoor air and thermal control system, ensuring healthier employees and guests and will have a lower carbon footprint through carbon offsetting

programmes and the use of environmentally friendly construction principles.

One benefit of being a thrivable hotel is the significantly higher marketing and PR exposure due to green technology and innovative product.

Another is that with the two first reasons for building and operating green hotels being ‘lower operating costs’ and ‘higher building value’, investors are able to give themselves a clean conscience as well as a financial opportunity with a high return on investment. •

www.verdehotels.co.za www.hotelverde.com

The Verde Hotels brand promise: “To develop financially and environmentally sustainable hospitality solutions that meet the LEED certification criteria, whilst incorporating the thrivable Verde lifestyle through design, project and  operation management, training and ongoing environmental impact assessment”

responsible traveller 11

Hotel Verde wins Green Hotelier of 2015, Africa & the Middle East Green Hotelier recently announced the winners of their worldwide 2015 Green Hotel Awards.

With applications from hotels throughout Europe, Middle East and Africa, Asia Pacific, and the Americas, picking four winners was an incredibly difficult task.

The Ramada Hotel & Suites Ajman, UAE were awarded ‘Highly Commended’ for their enthusiasm for all things green from their ‘Zero Landfill System’ to the urban farm in their 430 square meter car park.

Applicants ranged from small eco lodges surrounded by nature to large corporate hotels in city centres – but what brings all these hotels together is a genuine passion for sustainability.

Europe - winner: Boutique Hotel Stadthalle, Austria; highly commended: London Heathrow Marriott, UK and Inspira Santa Marta Hotel, Portugal Asia Pacific - winner: Nikoi Island, Indonesia; highly commended: Soneva Fushi, The Maldives and ITC Grand Chola, India The Americas - winner: Black Sheep Inn Ecolodge, Ecuador; highly commended: Blue Horizons Garden Resort, Grenada and Bucuti & Tara Beach Resorts, Aruba

Green Hotelier Editor Holly Tuppen said, “I would like to congratulate all applicants for their impressive commitment, and urge all hotels to continue their green journey and keep spreading best practice.”

HOTEL VERDE, CAPE TOWN was the stand out winner for their region. “Not only are they ONE OF THE GREENEST HOTELS IN AFRICA when it comes to operations, they also have an incredibly strong focus on the wellbeing of staff. Training and development sustains an active in-house sustainability drive and programmes like fulfilling ‘a wish’ for each staff member on the hotel’s first birthday ensure loyalty”.

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Other winners were:

Siobhan O’Neill, co-editor of Green Hotelier comments, “Seeing the innovative and inspiring ways hoteliers are reducing their impact on the environment whilst supporting their staff and the communities in which they’re based has been a really heart-warming experience and I’m happy that we’re able to recognise their hard work.” •

www.greenhotelier.org

Reflecting on the African Responsible Tourism Awards 2015...

Louise de Waal, contributer to THE GOOD HOLIDAY, shares her thoughts...

I

can’t get enough of hearing it and seeing it written down – THE GOOD HOLIDAY takes Gold for Best Blog at the African Responsible Tourism Awards 2015. The judges honoured The Good Holiday with the Gold award for among others “its authenticity, its real sense of care, and a true desire to facilitate experiences that are beneficial to all it comes in contact with at the heart of stories told.” We are humbled and grateful for this huge recognition and being part of the inaugural African Responsible Tourism Awards is the icing on the cake.

The first African Responsible Tourism Awards ceremony was held at WTM Africa in Cape Town in April earlier this year. Since the inception of the World Responsible Tourism Awards in 2004, 20% of all award winners have been from the African continent, so you could argue that an African version had been long overdue.

Hundreds of nominations were submitted for these prestigious awards from all over the African continent. Call me bias, but I was extremely excited to see six South African Gold winners in seven different categories, as well as the overall winner being awarded to GANSBAAI. 14 responsible traveller

JEREMY SMITH observes a trend amongst the current winners. He describes the winners as “not just examples of typical African tourism done well. Instead, they are challenging such preconceptions and stereotypes, and reinventing traditional tourism models along the way”. To me, these winners are the real heroes in tourism and pioneers in sustainable development. They have the courage to find a healthy balance within their businesses between people, planet and prosperity and are extremely successful in the process.

Over the last decade, South Africa has seen a trend of capacity building and creating

an infrastructure that supports responsible tourism. It more or less started with the Cape Town Declaration on Responsible Tourism in 2002 and culminated in the publication of the South African National Minimum Standards on Responsible Tourism in 2011. At the same time, a new consumer emerged, one who seeks more meaningful experiences, more deeply felt connections, more authentic and local events, and assuming more responsibility.

This shift in consumer values and beliefs is supported by HAROLD GOODWIN, professor of Responsible Tourism Management at Leeds Beckett University (UK). He says European tourists “increasingly understand the political, economic and social impact their holiday choices have and look for destinations, which support and reflect their ethics.” He continues to say that tourists want “authentic, genuine and sincere travel experiences” and “choose products and destinations that offer unique experiences, create a sense of place, and contribute meaningfully to communities”.

These trends among tourists are incredibly positive and encouraging, but is this why these businesses pioneer new tourism models?

In addition, there is the elephant in the room - the question of price, as unfortunately more often than not, the price of a holiday overrules its ethics in the consumer’s decision making process.

As GARRY WILSON, product & purchasing director for TUI Travel, says “being responsible in the tourism arena helps to lower costs”, which is certainly true for introducing water, energy, and waste reduction practices into a business.

However, we also hear from within the industry that being responsible increases business costs, for example labour cost. Having your staff on legitimate contracts, paying them at least a minimum wage, and making sure working conditions are fair and legal generally does not reduce the bottom line.

So why are we being responsible? Why do our awards winners run their businesses differently? responsible traveller 15

Why have they chosen a journey to sustainability, instead of a more traditional economic model?

treads lightly on our planet, one that connects people, and one that evokes a ‘good’ holiday.

Wilfred Chivell, founder and owner of MARINE DYNAMICS, answers this question straight from the heart. He says “I would not know another way to run my business. To work in conservation and with people from disadvantaged back-grounds, running your business responsibly is the only way.

It would be much cheaper not to invest a million rand in conservation each year, but how can we work with animals if we don’t actually understand their behaviour? It would take less time and effort not to train people in how to recycle our kitchen and other waste. It would be much easier to not to worry about these issues, but I could not run my business that way.”

Personally, I am extremely proud to be part of this trendsetting movement of responsible tourism in Africa, led by people with immense passion and drive to bring about change within their own communities and regions. People who believe that making a difference starts at home.

People who believe that ‘business as usual’ won’t work anymore. •

Iain Harris, founder & creative director of COFFEEBEANS ROUTES, came into tourism from an arts and culture background. Their journey started as a problem solving exercise.

Iain says “on the one hand we had a marginalised creative community in Cape Town, who were looking for gigs to make a living. On the other hand we had tourists, who were looking for more exciting and in-depth experiences that would connect them with the fabric of the city. Our task was to find matching stories for hungry ears.”

Coffeebeans Routes’ success did not happen overnight. It started with several years of R&D to find the right product to suit both parties, followed by more time refining these cultural interventions for economic growth.

GROOTBOS PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE’s journey is also mostly driven by passion.

Julie Cheetham, director of the GROOTBOS FOUNDATION, puts it very fittingly: “Grootbos has chosen the journey of sustainability not just because it makes business sense, but even more so because the Directors and staff are passionate about conservation and social change. It is fun for our team to be actively involved in our communities, knowing that they are making a difference. Our commitment to sustainability truly comes from a place of service, heart and passion for the inhabitants of this beautiful area.”

For THE GOOD HOLIDAY contributors the answer to this question is simple. We share our stories out of sheer desire for advocacy.

These stories are part of our personal journeys.

Journeys that are lived closer to nature and with a deeper appreciation for the people we share this planet and our lives with. With our stories we create a vision of a different type of tourism, one that brings change to destinations, one that 16 responsible traveller

“You never change things by fighting the existing reality.

You change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.”

R. Buckminster Fuller

Follow Louise de Waal On:

responsible travel

There’s so much to discover in Cape Town & the Western Cape. Why not try and make a difference while you’re here on your adventure? Be part of the “Green Travel” revolution when you choose and buy eco-friendly products. Explore with a tour operator that is socially and environmentally responsible. Research and know the culture of the community you are visiting so that you can respect their dignity and privacy – remember to ask for permission before you take pics. Don’t pick the flowers, or there won’t be any left when you visit again.

Be inspired to help future generations discover more.

www.discoverctwc.co.za discoverctwc @discoverctwc discoverctwc #discoverctwc

AFRICAN RESPONSIBLE TOURISM AWARDS

OVERALL GOLD WINNER sponsored by WESGRO

Gansbaai takes the Gold at the African Responsible Tourism Awards 2015 A community of tourism businesses working together to make better places to live in and great places to visit was announced Overall Winners this afternoon at the African Responsible Tourism Awards 2015 in Cape Town, sponsored by Wesgro.

In a special ceremony at World Travel Market Africa, Gansbaai took the coveted position of Overall Winner from of a selection of 22 finalists gathered from around Africa.

“It is exciting to bring the Word Responsible Tourism Awards family of the Awards to Cape Town & Africa” says Harold Goodwin, Chair of the Judging Panel. “There are many world class winners being announced today. Since 2004 African businesses from 14 countries have won awards, 20% of the Awards winners have been from Africa, 20% of all of those awarded. “ Speaking before a packed audience of over 100 tourism professionals, media, ministers and officials, Heidi van der Watt, managing director of Better Tourism Africa pinpointed what makes the Award winners the leaders in responsible tourism in Africa: “Our winners have a vision that extends beyond the commercial

– linking business success with the wellbeing of local communities and the longevity of their environments. They want to make profits with principles, communicate balance sheets alongside beliefs, and won’t undermine passion in the pursuit of professionalism. They are resilient, determined, humanising advocates for their destinations. They are the future of tourism in Africa.”

The Awards were sponsored by the Wesgro.

Tim Harris, Chief Executive Officer of Wesgro, who handed out the Awards, said: “As the proud headline sponsor of the inaugural African Responsible Tourism Awards, Wesgro is delighted to pay tribute to this year’s inspirational winners. As the official Tourism, Trade and Investment Promotion agency for Cape Town and the Western Cape, we continue to show our commitment to responsible tourism development both in our province and on the African continent. We are pleased to recognise the vision of the Award winners for providing leadership in their respective sectors throughout Africa, and effectively contributing to growing tourism in a sustainable manner.” www.africanresponsibletourismawards.com

Overall Gold Winner Gansbaai Judges’ reasons for winning: “This is a remarkable group of tourism businesses many of which have won Responsible Tourism Awards individually, including Grootbos for its conservation of the fynbos and its poverty reduction impact, and Marine Dynamics for conservation and local economic development. The judges want to recognise them for the overall award for the way in which they have worked, together to create a destination, with outstanding product, memorable experiences and brought local economic development and communal facilities to the local community. They have demonstrated what tourism can do to make better places to live in and great places to visit.” www.gansbaaiinfo.com

Gansbaai harbour responsible traveller 19

BEST FOR BEACH TOURISM supported by Shark Spotters and BulkSMS.com Gold Winner - Chumbe Island Coral Park Judges’ reasons for winning: “Chumbe was highly commended for water conservation in the World Responsible Tourism Awards in 2013 and they won the marine environment category in 2004. This time the judges wanted to recognise them for their careful review of progress to 2006 and the development of the new Management Plan 2006-2016. The judges saw this as an example of good practice and one which others should emulate.” www.chumbeisland.com Chumbe Island Coral Park For close to 20 years the uninhabited Chumbe Island Coral Park has been at the champion of Marine Conservation in East Africa and globally. It is the first privately managed marine protected area in the world and has been recognized by the secretary of the UN as “a noted example for PES (Payment for Ecosystem Services) within the context of coral reefs habitat”.

The park includes a fully protected coral reef sanctuary and forest reserve that harbour extremely rare and endangered animals, a Visitor and Education centre, a small eco-lodge, nature trails and historical ruins. All buildings and operations are based on state-of-the-art eco-technology aiming at zero impact on the environment (rainwater catchment, photovoltaic energy and solar water heating, composting toilets, vegetative greywater filtration etc.).

The company objectives are non-commercial, while operations follow commercial principles.

The overall aim of CHICOP is to create a model of financially and ecologically sustainable Park management, where ecotourism supports conservation, research and comprehensive Environmental Education programs for local schools and other benefits for local people Chumbe’s core objectives- conservation of the marine protected area, forest reserve and the environmental education program for Zanzibari students are entirely funded through low volume, high value eco tourism.

The seven Eco Bungalows on Chumbe Island are - in many aspects - something really special.

It’s what Robinson Crusoe could only have dreamt about! Being a Marine Protected Area (MPA) the focal aim of the Chumbe Island Coral Park Project is to preserve Chumbe Island’s exceptional environment. Therefore they have built accommodation based on the state-of-the-art of ecoarchitecture and eco-technology, being designed to provide both privacy and a sense of freedom of living in the open.

Silver Winner: Nuarro Lodge - www.nuarro.com

Chumbe Island Coral Park

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Shark Spotters improves beach safety through shark warnings and emergency assistance in the event of a shark incident. It conducts applied research on shark ecology and behaviour, raises public awareness about shark-related issues, and provides employment opportunities and skills development for Shark Spotters.

SHARK SPOTTERS IS A REGISTERED NON PROFIT ORGANISATION (NPO-060-390) AND PUBLIC BENEFIT ORGANISATION (PBO-930037421).

! p l e h r u o y d e e n e W SMS the word

PHOTO BY SEAN GEER

to Shark Spotters and help continue this important beach safety initiative.

www.sharkspotters.org.za ph: 078 174 4244 / e: info@sharkspotters.org.za

“The efforts by the Shark Spotters Programme to pro-actively monitor shark activity in the interest of beach safety is certainly an organisation worth supporting. BulkSMS is proud to be the mobile messaging enabler for this public service cause.�

Dr Pieter Streicher, MD of BulkSMS.com

ph. +27 (0)21 528 3420 e. sales@bulksms.com w w w. b u l k s m s . c o m

Enhance your SMS communications BulkSMS.com provides a two-way messaging service, including SMS shortcodes and Mobi-gram messaging, to large and small businesses, public benefit organisations, and individuals. The BulkSMS gateway reaches across borders and connects to over 800 mobile network operators world-wide.

BEST BLOG supported by Cape Town Tourism Gold Winner - The Good Holiday Judges’ reasons for winning: “The Good Holiday has authenticity, a real sense of care and a true desire to facilitate experiences that are beneficial to all it comes in contact with at the heart of stories told. Interactive and visually appealing, the blog inspires travellers to journey to African places with a unique cultural heritage, places that inspire people to consider a life seeking simple pleasures that tread lightly on the earth. www.thegoodholiday.com The Good Holiday One #tuesdaytravelstory at a time, The Good Holiday (TGH) recognises the urgent need for promoting responsible tourism’s immeasurable ability to better a traveller’s experience, its assurance for sustainable development in the greater global tourism industry, and the implementation of better practices makes both business sense and is better for the planet.

In addition, TGH comfortably places itself in a league of its own, celebrating the indisputable fact that ’good holidays’ also inspire lives of those living closer to nature and others, especially when a traveller returns home. Harnessing concrete inspiration found in responsible tourism, we showcase alternative lifestyle possibilities that are conceivable, evidently beneficial and so appealing that they effortlessly hearten the required transformation.

Through first-hand accounts of travel experiences that had an impact on the lives of our 21 contributors, each takes turns to debut a #tuesdaytravelstory - ensuring original, thoughtprovoking, regular, varying and insightful content. Contributors share voluntarily, out of sheer desire for advocacy - resulting in stories with heart that go deeper than just superficial destination descriptions.Instead of the perspective of a single author, TGH provides a unique blend of written, film and photographic material from various contributors, offering a richer sensory experience to travellers and establishments alike.

Silver Winner: My Slow Journey - www.myslowjourney.co.za

My Slow Journey at Sabi Sabi (pic Katarina Mancama)

22 responsible traveller

VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES

Ask the

locAls For the best free advice on places to visit and things to do in and around Cape Town, ask our local experts at our information centres.

CITY CENTRE CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT V&A WATERFRONT CANAL WALK LANGA SIMON’S TOWN SOMERSET WEST TABLE MOUNTAIN LOWER CABLEWAY KIRSTENBOSCH +27 (0)861 322 223 www.capetown.travel info@capetown.travel

we can aLSO heLp yOu with: + Reservations for car hire, tours, accommodation and activities;

+ My Green cards and Activity Permits for Table Mountain National Park;

+ Webtickets for Robben Island, Table Mountain and events; + South African National Park Reservations at selected branches;

+ Computicket and MyCiTi cards available at selected branches; + General travel information and much more!

@CapeTownTourism |

www.facebook.com/capetown.travel

If you had one day of complete freedom The V&A Waterfront is waiting to welcome you.

Come and join us when the early morning sun reflects goldenly on the water, the seagulls are grooming their feathers, the harbour starts stirring to commence business for the day.

Be here when restaurants open their doors and tables are arranged on the quayside.

Be here when fresh produce and local delicacies are arranged in glorious technicolour splendour.

Come shop, come eat, come marvel at underwater creatures.

Lick an ice-cream, sit on a bench, laugh at a seal, listen to the music floating on the sea breeze, soak up the sun.

Watch when the sun goes down and the bright lights of party nights go on.

It’s like a lifetime in one day – all in one place, all at the V&A Waterfront ~ keep discovering ~

BEST DESTINATION FOR RESPONSIBLE TOURISM supported by V&A Waterfront Gold Winner - Gansbaai Judges’ reasons for winning: “Since 1995 Gansbaai Tourism has worked to create awareness of and market the area as a tourism destination. The cluster of businesses in the area, some of them with international reputations, have worked together to develop an exemplary destination, a quality guest experience which has conserved fynbos and marine wildlife, created significant direct and indirect employment and they are now working together to quantify their environmental impacts. www.gansbaaiinfo.com Gansbaai The Gansbaai area has a cluster of tourism businesses committed to protecting the natural environment, preserving heritage, improving the quality of life of local people, and strengthening the local economy.

Companies such as Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, Marine Dynamics Tours, White Shark Projects, Dyer Island Cruises and Whale Song Lodge are certified under Fair Trade Tourism.

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve and Marine Dynamics have succeeded in world responsible tourism awards and have won various other awards for their work. Grootbos is particularly active in social development through the Dibanisa Football Foundation and the Growing the Futures programme. Marine Dynamics is actively conserving the marine heritage and invests in research, conservation and education, is involved in animal rescues and has recently built the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary in Gansbaai.

An extensive reforestation process is taking place in Steynsbos Forest, part of the Fynbos hiking trail and at Platbos Forest, aided by

the Trees for Tourism project and Greenpop forest festival. Farm215 in the area is actively involved in the Trees for Tourism project. There is a cluster of tourism businesses undergoing resource efficiency assessments in partnership with the National Cleaner Production Centre SA to improve water and energy efficiency.

Local wineries such as Lomond that participate in the WWF Biodiversity in Wine programme supply wine to restaurants, hotels and lodges.

Many tourism businesses source indigenous flowers from Flower Valley - the Flower Valley Conservation Trust encourages the sustainable harvesting of wild fynbos, through the Sustainable Harvesting Programme - a programme based on a three-pronged approach balancing conservation, social development and economic empowerment in the wild fynbos sector.

The area also includes the Walker Bay Conservancy which was set up by concerned landowners back in 1999 to protect the fynbos heritage where previous undocumented species have been discovered. It is possible to have a seamless ‘good for local people and the environment’ visit to the area.

Silver Winners:

Image courtesy of Grootbos Private Nature Reserve ©

Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary (KAFRED) - www.bigodi-tourism.org City of Cape Town - www.responsiblecapetown.co.za

Horse riding at Grootbos - Gansbaai responsible traveller 25

BEST FOR ENGAGING PEOPLE & CULTURE supported by Gauteng Tourism Gold Winner - Coffeebeans Routes Judges’ reasons for winning: “Setting an example that could be replicated in other destinations, Cape Town-based Coffeebeans Routes creates travel experiences around urban stories. These are contemporary, urban, African experiences that provide deep insights, and plenty of fun. The experiences bring visitors and locals together across boundaries. Unapologetic about the pushing social justice agenda, Coffeebeans Routes employs tourism as a tool to unlock economic potential and address societal inequalities through exploring cultural diversity and legacy.” www.coffeebeansroutes.com Coffeebeans Routes The Coffeebeans Route approach gives visitors an opportunity to engage deeply with the human fabric of the cities they work in, in all their breadth of complexity and nuance. Because their approach centres around stories, they are unlocking both narrative and economic potential while breaking economies of silence, which is hugely transformative.

They create income for a wide network of people (artists, musicians, guides, storytellers etc) where previously there were few or no opportunities. The biggest impact is in disadvantaged areas, with a model that challenges and inverts traditional assumptions about race, power and economics. Rather than “Khayelitsha, on the periphery of Cape Town,” it is “Khayelitsha, a city of some 1.5 million people, and a central economic node”. We are interested in pushing new ways of seeing our world.

Their model is not one of outreach or charity. It works on the premise that the hosts, artists, storytellers, musicians etc they work with are suppliers, and not beneficiaries of charity. These are people without whom we have no product to sell. They have inverted the traditional tourism model where a people-centred approach is parochial and entrenches old stereotypes.

They present the city in a more unified way.

Silver Winners: !Khwa ttu San Culture and Education Centre - www.khwattu.org Nkwichi Lodge - www.nkwichi.com TFPD Foundation, for the work done at Baleni Camp - www.africanivoryroute.co.za

Coffeebeans Routes Art Route

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Promoting Real, Meaningful And Authentic Local Experiences Live life local, travel like a local.

GATEWAY TO SOUTH AFRICA

TOURISM

BEST FOR POVERTY REDUCTION supported by Marine Dynamics Joint Gold Winner : Grootbos Private Nature Reserve in partnership with the Grootbos Foundation Transfrontier Parks Destinations Judges’ reasons for winning: ”Here we have two winners working at different scales – each in their own way using tourism as a vehicle for poverty reduction.

Grootbos is no stranger to winning Responsible Tourism Awards. What stands out is the long history of interventions that amplify each other. The programmes of the Grootbos Foundation focus on improved livelihoods through self-reliance, development of viable enterprise development, gender balance and empowerment of women. Impacts are well quantified and information about projects easily accessible to the willing reader.

The scale and ambition of the Transfrontier Parks Destination’s work is truly remarkable. To actively seek out failing tourism businesses in areas of very high unemployment is very admirable but to them turn them round into viable businesses again employing many locals on a living wage giving them long term stability and income displays true leadership.” www.grootbosfoundation.org www.tfpd.co.za Grootbos Private Nature Reserve in partnership with the Grootbos Foundation Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is a leader in the field of responsible tourism; dedicated to generating innovative programmes and projects to uplift and empower its local communities.

Their community empowerment programmes are geared to engage with local residents by offering educational-, environmental-, entrepreneurial- and sports skills training which teach life skills, increase perceptions of selfefficacy, generate employment opportunities, stimulate social enterprise development and create economically viable citizens.

Since its inception in1990, long before a social investment policy was required from companies, Grootbos incentivised community intervention and since 2003, via the formal establishment of its foundation, it has staggered its programme interventions and projects to train and employ 160 people

from the local rural communities which in turn affects 4,000 lives – emphasizing the outcomes of true passion for people and their environment. These programmes have been designed to stand the test of time – longevity and replication in other local communities being the ultimate yardstick for these lifechanging incentives.

Poverty reduction presumes that individuals have the skills capacity to apply for a job.

The Gansbaai community alone currently has 31,1% unemployment rate and has no access to skills training facilities which underlines the dire need for intervention. Grootbos, via its Grootbos Foundation, is the only hope for hundreds of local residents to receive training and the foundation has worked in close cooperation with community members, organisations and local government to create a socially cohesive product which not only capacitates but also celebrates culturally inclusive community activities and programmes.

Grootbos Foundation - Green Futures programme responsible traveller 29

BEST FOR POVERTY REDUCTION supported by Marine Dynamics Transfrontier Parks Destinations (TFPD) Transfrontier Parks Destinations (TFPD) entered the rural tourism market in Southern Africa in 2006 with a 5 unit/10 bed camp. By the end of 2015 they will employ 170 people in full time rural tourism jobs and will earn a combined salary of over R9.million this year. During this 8-year period, TFPD have advocated for investments, and provided the enabling environment for application of over R100 million for the renovation, construction or operationalising of community-owned tourism assets. A further R150 million advocated for by TFPD will enhance these areas over the next 36 months.

TFPD operate in remote rural areas where unemployment levels are in excess of 80%. Every job created in a sustainable business provides a knock-on effect. At an obvious financial level the individual no longer relies on the state or their extended family for support; the salary earned is spent in that community, with its downstream value. Local entrepreneurs receive income as they sell to the Lodge or directly to tourists.

On a less obvious level, the creation of sustainable jobs has deep societal value. Their experience is that income-earners prioritise education of their children, a sense of pride in their community grows, and the value of living in remote rural areas is increased. This is of particular importance where urban squalor is being created through the migration of unemployed people into the cities.

TFPD build sustainable tourism jobs in rural areas, bring the attention of investors to these remote areas to build infrastructure and community assets and with respectful management practices, and tourist-friendly communities, they help create good places to live, and great places to visit.

Silver Winner: Stormsriver Adventures - www.stormsriver.com

TFPD ‘s !Xaus Lodge

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TFPD’s !Xaus Lodge

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BEST FOR RESOURCE MANAGEMENT supported by National Cleaner Production Centre of SA Gold Winner - Chobe Game Lodge Judges’ reasons for winning: “Chobe Game Lodge is over 40 years old, to refurbish an old structure the size of this lodge, making it more eco-friendly is a mammoth and on-going task. The lodge has a long term approach to energy efficiency with the ultimate aim of reducing dependency on the grid. The most noticeable innovation is the use of All Electric Game Drive Vehicles and Electric game viewing boats. www.chobegamelodge.co.bw

Chobe Game Lodge Chobe Game lodge has been involved right from the start in the consultative stages with the Botswana Tourism Organization’s development of the current ECO tourism Grading Manual. They also availed themselves for a voluntary audit for ECO certification and was subsequently awarded Green+ Eco certification in June 2010.

There are three tiers of ECO grading in Botswana, the entry level of GREEN, a second tier of Green+ and then the highest grading of ECO tourism which they gained in 2012. They were audited again in October 2014 and have successfully retained full ECO Tourism certification.

Chobe Game Lodge is over 40 years old, to refurbish an old structure the size of this lodge, making it more eco-friendly has, and continues to be a mammoth task – it took them over seven years to get where they are today but acknowledge there is still work to be done.

Silver Winners: Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp - www.wilderness-safaris.com Sandele Eco-Retreat and Learning Centre - www.sandele.com Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company - www.tablemountain.net Vineyard Hotel - www.vineyard.co.za

Chobe Game Lodge

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BEST FOR WILDLIFE CONSERVATION supported by South African National Parks Gold Winner - Marine Dynamics, South Africa Judges’ reasons for winning: “Marine Dynamics provide very high quality shark cage diving experiences. They operate in a sector where there is rightly a lot of criticism of current practice. Marine Dynamics are industry leaders, a commercial operation which operates to the highest conservation standards, where every trip has a marine biologist aboard to provide interpretation and collect data for scientific research. An operator that makes a significant contribution to conservation and the local economy. www.sharkwatchsa.com Marine Dynamics Marine Dynamics Tours is the only shark cage diving company in South Africa that is truly making a difference through research, conservation and education, and protecting the animals and environment on which it relies on for a living. Providing logistical and financial support to the owner established Dyer Island Conservation Trust through which the projects are run. The Trust was set up as a registered non-profit so that clients of Marine Dynamics could help support the work and know their funds are being correctly managed.

Marine Dynamics lives by the motto of ‘Discover and Protect’ and spreads the message to their clients that “YOUR CHOICE MAKES A DIFFERENCE.” They have initiated and supported some crucial studies in the area: the FIRST great white shark population study in Gansbaai (crucial considering their numbers are unknown but suggested at anything between 3000 – 5000 worldwide); the influence of environmental parameters on great white shark behaviour – crucial in understanding of climate change factors and interactions with humans during certain times of the year; predator/prey relationships between great white sharks and Cape fur seals – crucial to a better understanding of the ecosystem in which they operate.

Marine Dynamics staff are also actively involved in animal rescues – their organisation is the first port of call in the area for any marine animals in need. Marine Dynamics is recognised by many institutions that includes Fair Trade Tourism and Universities and has been used as a case study for best practice. Owner Wilfred Chivell, the visionary behind Marine Dynamics achievements has won various conservation awards. Marine Dynamics has ultimately been instrumental in changing perceptions of great white sharks and adding valuable input based on scientific research that can contribute to conservation decision of this iconic species. Yet the work of the organisation does not stop there and includes the welfare of the various species in their area – the endangered African penguin and other seabirds; whale/dolphin and seal studies; marine pollution efforts and a commitment to local employment and personal growth of their staff.

Silver Winners: andBeyond’s Rhinos Without Borders - www.andbeyond.com Bartholomeus Klip Farmhouse - www.bartholomeusklip.com Shark cage diving

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Experience

GANSBAAI... a small town with a big heart words - Brenda du Toit

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pic - Tessa Buhrmann Š

Views across the harbour

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I

t’s a small town – one main road; six pages in the phone book; everyone knows everyone; and most people here live according to the weather on windguru – but don’t underestimate all that is going on in this historical old fishing village.

I stop in at the GANSBAAI TOURISM BUREAU where manager Glenda Kitley explains the vision of the bureau for the area: Create and market Gansbaai as the ultimate “up close and personal” eco/ eco-adventure destination in the Western Cape, South Africa with a bias toward conservation and sustainability.

The bureau recently updated their logo and is marketing Gansbaai as ‘the natural adventure destination.’ As she explains, “We have so much to offer but everyone only thinks of Gansbaai as the place where you go shark cage diving and not all our tourists stay and explore. We have incredible hiking and mountain bike trails, an unforgettable view over Walker Bay made even more brilliant when the Southern right whales are visiting; an art route; herbarium and fynbos garden; our iconic Danger Point lighthouse; fishing; surfing; fantastic beaches and we are a great wedding spot. This area hosts many local photographers and offers incredible photographic opportunities from sunsets, fynbos, birds, landscapes and yes, sharks of course.”

Glenda is giving me the grand tour of the projects that have placed Gansbaai on the world stage after winning Gold at the African Responsible Tourism Awards in the category Best Destination for Responsible Tourism. Gansbaai was also awarded overall winner.

Our first stop is the five star GROOTBOS PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE with views across the bay where on a clear day you can see Cape Point.

Grootbos won in the category of Poverty Reduction category at the awards. Owned by the Lutzeyer family, this property is loved by all who visit and for obvious reasons. Those that stand out include the attention to detail, knowledgeable and friendly staff, and the incredible fynbos - the Nature Reserve is home to 765 plant species, 100 of which are endangered and six of which are completely new to science.

We head out with a guide on a fynbos tour and the fragrance in the air brings an immediate feeling of relaxation over me.

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A wonderful variety fynbos can be- Selinda seen onCamp a Great PlainsofConservation Flower Safari at Grootbos Private Nature Reserve

Image - Grootbos Private Nature Reserve ©

‘...the Nature Reserve is home to 765 plant species, 100 of which are endangered and six of which are completely new to science.’

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Grootbos Foundation’s Growing the Future ‘campus’

Image - Grootbos Foundation ©

Alien clearers at Grootbos

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Image - Grootbos Foundation ©

‘... conservation, fire reaction, alien clearing and tourism management plans for the conservancy have been developed’

In 1999 Grootbos, a Fair Trade certified property, became one of the first members of the WALKER BAY FYNBOS CONSERVANCY. This role model public/private conservation partnership has brought together landowners collectively owning 12,179 hectares of coastal and mountain fynbos, which is being jointly managed for conservation. In partnership with other conservancy members, conservation, fire reaction, alien clearing and tourism management plans for the conservancy have been developed. These will ensure continuity in the management of the area, the creation of new tourism attractions and increased access to natural resources and employment opportunities for local communities. responsible traveller 41

The GROOTBOS FOUNDATION established in 2003 now employ in excess of 35 full time staff while the lodges employ a further 127 staff, some 80% are from local disadvantaged communities. The Grootbos Foundation engages directly in rehabilitation and protection of the natural environment through its Green Futures programme and provides education to 8-12 students per year, by an adult education college aligned with the local Agricultural Sector Education and Training Authority, including horticulture, conservation, ecotourism and life skills education. Since its inception, 118 young people have graduated and 90% of graduates have found employment. The foundation runs a successful football academy which provides the youth in surrounding communities with access to facilities, life skills training, HIV education, female empowerment and more.

This area is also blessed with marine life, and tourists regularly enjoy trips educating them on marine conservation through the partnership shared between Grootbos and MARINE DYNAMICS and DYER ISLAND CRUISES. This is where we head to next for a trip out to sea.

Marine Dynamics won the African Responsible Tourism Award - Best for Wildlife Conservation.

The companies are Fair Trade certified with their motto “Discover and Protect’ and guarantee that ‘Your Choice Makes a Difference.’

The owner of the companies, Wilfred Chivell established the DYER ISLAND CONSERVATION TRUST in 2006 in order to raise money for marine conservation and research. Since then huge efforts have been made by this non-profit in terms of African penguin and great white shark conservation. The first population study of great white sharks in Gansbaai was done by this organisation.

Other research includes: acoustic tagging and tracking and boat based observational data helping build a better understanding of great white shark behaviour. I learn from biologist Alison Towner that sharks really do have personalities and she told me that ‘Zane’ who was acoustically tagged merely visited the shark boat briefly then spent time hunting around the island during the day and the deeper waters at night time. Studies have also helped in the understanding of predatory interactions and new insights into their behaviour are being revealed.

Other efforts include a unique fishing line bin project aimed at combating marine pollution.

The Trust also handles all marine animal rescues 42 responsible traveller

Land based whale watching activities

Image - Grootbos Private Nature Reserve ©

‘This area is blessed with marine life, and tourists regularly enjoy trips educating them on marine conservation...’

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Great Plains Conservation - Selinda Camp

The endemic Erica irregularis on a hill overlooking the ocean

‘...without passion, dedicated leadership and a true concern for the conservation of the area and her people, none of what I have seen would be possible.’

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and work with the Grootbos Dibanisa Football Foundation and various local schools supporting education efforts.

Not having very good sea legs I opt for the eco marine cruise with Dyer Island Cruises who do whale watching in season (June – Dec).

We make a stop past the shark boat and are enthralled at the antics of a great white shark called Ingrid. We were lucky enough to see the rather elusive humpback dolphins, spotted a Bryde’s whale in the distance and then visited the fragile Dyer Island, an Important Bird area and home to the endangered African penguin.

The Trust has a successful nest project for the African penguin, a project which is part of the Biodiversity Management Plan for the species, and has recently opened a first for the area – the AFRICAN PENGUIN AND SEABIRD SANCTUARY for the rehabilitation of injured, oiled and diseased seabirds.

Image - Brenda du Toit ©

After our adventure at sea, we head off to view this impressive facility tailor made for birds, like a spa really, and I am having visions of penguins queuing up to get in. There is an auditorium with one way glass so the birds cannot see us and cameras in the rehabilitation and hospital areas which can be viewed on the television screen. A Cape Gannet, an Antarctic tern and a Cape cormorant were all recovering in the conditioning pen which looks a lot like Dyer Island.

Everywhere I notice beautiful fynbos which Glenda tells me is locally sourced from Flower Valley, a neighbour of Grootbos. The FLOWER VALLEY CONSERVATION TRUST encourages the sustainable harvesting of wild fynbos, through the Sustainable Harvesting Programme - a programme based on a three-pronged approach balancing conservation, social development and economic empowerment in the wild fynbos sector.

One thing I have realised thus far is that without passion, dedicated leadership and a true concern for the conservation of the area and her people, none of what I have seen would be possible.

There is so much more going on in Gansbaai: Reforestation projects, a recycling project for children at the Swop Shop in Masakhane by WHITE SHARK PROJECTS, the historical and culturally rich Klipgat Cave, and various other exciting initiatives. So many people to meet, projects still to visit, definitely a destination not to be missed. •

www.gansbaaiinfo.com responsible traveller 45

words - Katarina Mancama pics - Grootbos Private Nature Reserve & Katarina Mancama

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W

e are heading into winter, and soon the whales will be visiting our southern shores. Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is the perfect base for a different kind of Big Five safari: the Marine Big Five (whales, sharks, dolphins, seals and penguins).

Your experience will start as soon as you enter the gates to the reserve; turn off the radio and wind down your windows and you will be rewarded with the sounds of sugar birds and the herby smell of fynbos. The check-in process is a joy in itself. Sitting down in a comfy chair by the panorama window and sipping a glass of bubbly really takes the boredom out of filling out the required paperwork!

Grootbos is the ultimate in 5-star luxury, from the exquisite suites with panoramic views to the immaculate service and abundance of activities on offer for guests ranging from leisurely nature walks, beach picnics and inroom spa treatments to exciting horse rides and 4x4 adventures.

But it is the sincere commitment to people and nature that sets Grootbos apart and makes this a once in a lifetime experience. Not only is this commitment immediately apparent in the beautiful fynbos that surrounds the lodge, where the Grootbos team have painstakingly removed alien species to restore the fynbos to its original glory and actively protect and conserve it for future generations, but it is also palpable in the atmosphere at Grootbos.

The way you can feel history in the air of an old building or sadness at a memorial, you can feel pride and a willingness to make your stay the best it can be radiate from the competent and professional team at Grootbos. By looking after their staff, the surrounding community responsible traveller 47

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‘A stay at Grootbos will pamper your senses in more ways than one and leave you feeling fulfilled in body and in soul...’

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and the environment, Grootbos has created the ultimate get-away; a luxury retreat that is loved not only by its clients but also by its staff and the wider community. This is not a small feat for a business that charges more per person per night than many of the people in the community make in a month!

Grootbos is facilitating a number of projects, ranging from the purely philanthropic - ike the Youth Development Project that uses sport as a vehicle to promote education, health, social integration and participation amongst the culturally diverse communities of the Gansbaai area, especially the underprivileged youth.

To self-funding models like the Green Futures project, a Horticulture and Life Skills College that provides an annual training programme to 12 unemployed young adults from the Gansbaai area - the sale of plants and provision of landscaping services by the students provides income to the college.

And to projects where guests can get directly involved like the Future Trees Project aims at redeveloping an area of indigenous forest that was destroyed in a fire in 2006 – guests can purchase a tree and will get its location recorded and mapped using a GPS in order to visit in the future to see its progress and growth).

Food at Grootbos is not only a culinary feast, but also organic and locally sourced. Each night, the chef will create a new indulgent 5-course menu to celebrate the local produce and delight his diners. All of the herbs, as well as organic eggs, honey, pork, vegetables and fruit come from the onsite Growing the Future project – where local women are taught food production and life skills.

This not only ensures ultimate freshness of the produce, but also contributes to upliftment of the local community. If all of that does not make for the perfect dining experience, then add the spectacular views and I dare say that no-one will leave the table disappointed!

A stay at Grootbos will pamper your senses in more ways than one and leave you feeling fulfilled in body and in soul! •

www.grootbos.com Follow Katarina Mancama on:

MY SLOW JOURNEY 50 responsible traveller

‘...it is the sincere commitment to people and nature that sets Grootbos apart and makes this a once in a lifetime experience.’

Housekeeping

Green Futures Programme

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Shark Cage Diving – a Wet Thrill or Conser vation Exploit?

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n the summer of 1975, Steven Spielberg’s blockbuster movie ‘Jaws’ was released. I remember the film so well. It was probably the first movie I watched unsupervised in the cinema with my girlfriends – excitement, suspense, and pure fear all rolled into one. And yes, I did watch most of the two hours through my fingers. What I didn’t realise at the time, was the damaging legacy this movie would leave for the shark as a species.

After nearly 40 years, the Great white shark is still portrayed as a villain - a blood thirsty, evil, man-eating monster. After every unfortunate shark attack, the debate of shark culling and shark nets is jolted back to life, even though non-invasive methods, such as the Shark Spotters Programme in the False Bay area, are highly effective. Advertising campaigns, like Rethink the Shark, don’t seem to have much of an impact on people’s irrational fear and perception either.

Sixteen million years of evolution created a highly adapted and successful marine apex predator. A striking and graceful creature sadly listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. The reasons for its decline most of us are familiar with, like the threats from dying in gillnets as bycatch, overfishing for the

words - Louise de Waal pics - SharkwatchSA

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shark fin soup industry, and death by suffocation in shark nets protecting our beaches. However, what even the research community didn’t realise was how small the global Great white population actually is - estimated to be as low as 3,000-5,000 (at best 10,000). This puts the Great white at a similar risk of extinction as the rhino.

Not surprising that some researchers feel its status should be downgraded to threatened.

South Africa is fortunate to have one of the largest Great white populations, especially around Dyer Island (near Gansbaai), where shark tourism has boomed in recent years.

It was here, with Fair Trade Tourism certified Marine Dynamics, where my love for sharks was truly sealed. The boat ride out to Shark Alley is an exhilarating experience in its own The Great White Shark

‘A striking and graceful creature sadly listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species...’

The thrill of the boat ride...

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right. Mooring, chumming, and waiting. Those not averse to the cold were suiting up, while I stayed on deck with my trusted companion, my camera, waiting for the quintessential triangle slicing through the water’s surface. When it does, the feeling of awe, respect, and pure bliss were overwhelming.

I am a self-confessed conservation addict. Every time I am exposed to the immense beauty of the African continent and the plight of so many species, I just want to scream. Tell the world how important it is to protect the few remaining intact eco-systems with all its flora and fauna.

Contrary to popular belief, shark cage diving does not habituate sharks to boats. These highly intelligent and inquisitive creatures just love to suss out anything, including boats. They come up close and personal for the ultimate adrenalin rush. They hang around for maybe 10-15 minutes before moving on. And the waiting game resumes.

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But what I realised when shark cage diving with Marine Dynamics is that you will not love and protect what you don’t understand.

Even though shark cage diving is considered contentious, in my mind it plays a hugely important role in changing people’s attitude towards this unfairly treated animal. It raises awareness of the shark’s vulnerable

Conservation & research boat

conservation status. It also explains why it is important to have apex predators in our oceans.

While giving people a truly once in a lifetime experience – the wet thrill.

The responsible shark diving operator is the vehicle to a greater understanding of sharks in general and making the Great whites ambassadors for its species.

Follow Louise de Waal On:

First published in:

The personal and mind-blowing experience of encountering a Great white up close in its natural environment might just swing people’s perception and save this species from extinction. •

www.sharkwatchsa.com

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What’s news...

Durban ICC Joins the Mandela Day Million Meal Challenge

Members of the Durban ICC executive management team join Saira Khan of Stop Hunger Now at the announcement of the Mandela Day Million Meal Challenge.

On Nelson Mandela Day 2015, (17th July), the Durban International Convention Centre will host the Durban leg of the “Million Meal Challenge” in association with Stop Hunger Now Southern Africa.

The “Million Meal Challenge” is an initiative of Stop Hunger Now (SNH), an international NGO working in South Africa to eradicate hunger in the country. The event will see over 6000 volunteers in three cities package one million meals in a single day. This achievement will be a world first if it is accomplished.

The four ingredients 36 bags / 216 meals in a box

These highly nutritious, dehydrated meals comprised of rice, soya, vegetables, and 21 essential vitamins and minerals. The meals are easy to store and transport and have a shelf life of over a year. The cost is per meal is only R2.75 and it is packaged to feed 10 children or 6 adults comfortably. The packaged meals will be distributed in the months ahead to Early Childhood Development centres and schools affected by extreme poverty.

Commenting on the importance of the project, Durban ICC Chief Executive Officer, Lindiwe Rakharebe noted, “Eradicating hunger is the first step in preventing so many of the other social ills plaguing our society today. Alleviating this kind of suffering is essential, especially during the window of early childhood development in their formative years. Without solving the hunger problem, it is almost impossible for our children to meet any of their other developmental goals.”

“Mandela Day is more than a commemoration of the life and legacy of Madiba, it is an

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What’s news... opportunity for all of us to honour his life’s work and do something practical to make the world a better place. What better way to honour the continuing legacy of Nelson Mandela, than by rolling up our sleeves and giving of our time and resources to serve those who need our help?” added Rakharebe.With the support of the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory, the event will be hosted in Durban for the first time this year. The three venues which have taken on the challenge are the Durban ICC, the Sandton Convention Centre and Canal Walk in Cape Town.

Saira Khan, Chief Executive Officer of Stop Hunger Now, Southern Africa said, “I am thrilled that the Durban ICC has come on board in supporting this event and I want to thank them for their enthusiasm and commitment to Living the Legacy.”

The event is aimed at corporate organisations to adopt the project as a Corporate Social Investment project as part of their voluntary service for Nelson Mandela Day. The companies can join the initiative by contributing toward the cost of the meals and entering a team to package meals during one of the four shifts available on the day.

As an example of the contribution which can be made, if a company entered a team of 20 volunteers for one shift, and donated the cost of R10,000 to cover the ingredients and distribution of the meals, they would have sponsored 3,120 meals. This would be enough to feed 20 children, three times a week for an entire year. •

www.stophungernowsa.org

Local community creche receiving meals responsible traveller 59

Chumbe Island: Marine Ecotourism at its Best words - Mikael Castro pics - Chumbe Island Coral Lodge

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humbe Island, a half-mile-long coral rag island just eight miles south of Zanzibar’s infamous Stone Town, has become a celebrated ecotourism success story in the Zanzibar archipelago. Its history is a narrative best told directly by Sibylle Riedmiller, a German conservationist who came to Chumbe looking for a coral reef to protect in the late 80s. After years of complex negotiations among several actors, Sibylle’s determination persevered and in 1994 Chumbe Island Coral Park (CHICOP) became Tanzania’s first marine protected area gazetted by the Zanzibar Government.

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‘The focus at Chumbe is on marine conservation and environmental education rather than ecotourism...’ responsible traveller 61

Geared-up with snorkels and fins and floating just a couple hundred yards off shore parallel the island, we witnessed first-hand the motive behind creating a Chumbe’s marine reserve.

“There is a blue-spotted sting ray over here” called out Karlyn Langjahr, Chumbe’s project manager. A few minutes later, Khamis, former fisherman and now guide and park ranger, pointed out a hawksbill turtle swimming our way, followed by a huge grouper fish.

What is most amazing about Chumbe, besides the 400 species of fish that can be seen in this reef, is the amount and the diversity of the corals. Neither of us, in our years of snorkeling and diving (from the Caribbean to the Philippines), have seen such an amazing coral garden While she has won nearly every international and local award in sustainable tourism (from the World Legacy Award to Tourism for Tomorrow Award), 62 responsible traveller

‘What is most amazing about Chumbe, besides the 400 species of fish that can be seen in this reef, is the amount and the diversity of the corals...’

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The focus at Chube is on marine conservation and environmental education rather than ecotourism. The revenue from tourism merely provides the means for the conservation of the Coral Reef Sanctuary and Forest Reserve along with the extensive list of educational initiatives.

Chumbe’s staff, numbering near 40 – a pretty good staff-to-guest ratio with a capacity for some 15 overnight guests – includes trained park rangers who serve as guides.

Nearly all staff members are native to Tanzania, most from Zanzibar’s main island. The park rangers, many former fishermen from neighboring villages, have been trained in park management and monitoring techniques for reef and forest. Along with local and international researchers supported by CHICOP, they have collected data indicating that fish size and marine diversity have increased in the coral park while illegal fishing incidents have significantly decreased.

After our candle-lit dinner on the beach, we went in search of the Chumbe’s night life.

Saidck Magwiza, who began as waiter in 2000 and after years of training became an assistant manager, took us to the rag forest of the island to find the world’s largest land crab. These crabs can reach up to a foot and a half in diameter.

As we retreat to our bungalow for the night we are reminded why Chumbe received such high marks in ecotourism. Each of the seven eco-bungalows was constructed using local materials as self-sustaining units with their own rainwater catchment, composting toilets, grey water filtration, and photovoltaic panels for electricity. The room temperature is regulated by a fan that runs on solar energy and a thatched-wall lowered by a coconut fiber rope, providing a bedside view of the Indian Ocean.

‘Chumbe Island Coral Park is a not for profit private company, founded in 1994 to manage the conservation and environmental education programmes within the conservation area on Chumbe Island...’

Chumbe Island Coral Park is a not for profit private company, founded in 1994 to manage the conservation and environmental education programmes within the conservation area on Chumbe Island, on behalf of the Government of Zanzibar. These activities are funded through sustainable ecotourism operated on the island since 1998.

The island only uses sustainable technologies such as solar power, compost toilets, rain water harvesting etc. in order to have as little as possible impact on the surrounding environment. •

www.chumbeisland.com 64 responsible traveller

First published in:

responsible traveller 65

Advertorial

Conservation Internships and Volunteering Experiences Somkhanda Game Reserve is located in the Zululand region of South Africa’s KwaZulu Natal province. Between the towns of Mkuze and Pongola, (west of Jozini Lake and the N2 highway). The game reserve is 12,000 ha and is located in one of the world’s major biodiversity hotspots known as the Maputaland-Pondoland-Albany Hotspot.

The southern boundary of the game reserve borders onto the Mkuze River. The high ridges in the east of the reserve provide magnificent sweeping views across Jozini Lake to the Lebombo Mountains beyond.

The reserve is home to white and black rhino, leopard, hyena, African wild dog, giraffe, zebra, kudu, nyala, bushbuck, impala, warthog, duiker, steenbuck, wildebeest and a host of smaller mammals and reptiles. In 2015 buffalo and will be introduced.

African Insight manages exclusive tourism concessions on Somkhanda Game Reserve as well as Bhekula Nature Reserve - located five minutes from Tembe Elephant Park. The tourism focus on these reserves is based on a Science on Safari model where guests 66 responsible traveller

are involved in interactive wildlife and conservation activities.

In September 2014 African Insight launched a 3 – 12 month internship programme which has been a huge success. Interns from Germany, Switzerland, Canada and South Africa have made a huge contribution to the ongoing conservation and community outreach on the reserve. This success has led to the launch of a new opportunity - a one month conservation volunteering experience on the reserve.

With fixed start and end dates that are co-ordinated with routine transport from Durban up to Somkhanda and back the cost of travel is eliminated making this a very affordable experience for single travellers as well as groups. The cost is US$175/week.

This programme is perfect for active, enthusiastic travellers looking for an opportunity for an awesome wildlife conservation experience that is making a definite contribution to conservation and community awareness.

www.africaninsight.co.za

Images courtesy of African Insight / Stew Nolan Photography ©

A succesful game capture & release

Advertorial Darted rhino being de-horned

Cattle dipping in the local community

Setting equipment for the monitoring of wildlife

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Implementing ecotourism at

CHOBE GAME LODGE Words & pics - Stuart Parker

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uilt in the 1970’s, Chobe Game Lodge was the first five star safari lodge of its kind in Botswana. With is impressive arches, high ceilings and expansive interiors the 46 roomed lodges was built in a distinctly moorish architectural style. It is the only safari lodge inside the Chobe National Park and enjoys one of the best views overlooking the mighty Chobe River.

In 2012 Chobe Game Lodge was awarded the highest ecotourism level by Botswana tourism for their efforts in sustainable ecotourism. The ecotourism certification program was developed

by Botswana Tourism in 2002 as part of their strategy to be the leading sustainable tourism destination in Africa. To date only 15 lodges have been awarded certificates with 12 lodges being awarded the highest honours. All of the 12 lodges, with the exception of Chobe 68 responsible traveller

Game Lodge, are small (less than 20 rooms) luxury tented safari lodges with relatively small ecological footprints. So how did a large 1970s safari lodge manage to obtain the same honours as these smaller luxury tented camps?

Last year October I spent several days at Chobe Game Lodge as part of my #ThisIsChobe campaign and learnt first hand how they’ve turned this traditional lodge into one of the most

‘So how did a large 1970s safari lodge manage to obtain the same honours as these smaller luxury tented camps?’

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Great Plains Conservation - Selinda Camp

‘...something that makes Chobe Game Lodge unique is their all female guiding team aptly named the Chobe Angels.’

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sustainable safari lodges in Botswana. Here are some of their most notable projects.

Recycling Waste management is a vital part of any safari operation and Chobe Game Lodge has developed several initiatives to deal with the waste they produce on a daily basis.

The one which stood out most for me was their brick making initiative which involves mixing crushed glass with cement to make bricks. The bricks have been used in a variety of in house projects, including the construction of their biogas plant but the most notable use is the construction of a two bedroom home in one of the local Kazungula communities.

Biogas Plant In September 2013 Chobe Game Lodge embarked on a new project to produce biogas from their kitchen waste. It is an ongoing project which I was fortunate to see in progress while on my back of house tour. Producing gas from the plant is a delicate process and while it is still being fine tuned they are successfully managing their own food waste on site, rather than having to transport it out of the reserve to the waste management site in Kasane.

Chobe Deck One of my best features of Chobe Game Lodge is their large boardwalk and expansive deck, offering magnificent views over the Chobe River.

What makes this deck unique is that it has been built using recycled plastic bags. Some wood was used in the supporting structures but this was sourced from a sustainable forestry company.

While a lot of wood was saved in the construction of the deck, what I like most is that it is virtually maintenance free. With its close proximity to the Chobe River its good to know that no chemicals will ever be used to maintain it.

Chobe Angels Something that makes Chobe Game Lodge unique is their all female guiding team aptly named the Chobe Angels. Guiding in Botswana (and throughout Africa) is traditionally a male dominated job which is something Chobe Game Lodge wants to change.

I enjoyed several game drives and boat cruises with the Chobe Angels and thoroughly enjoyed each experience. The ladies were in tune with their natural surroundings and showed excellent awareness to each of their guests. Its the first time I’d been guided by a team of female guides and was impressed by their professionalism and warm hospitality. responsible traveller 71

As part of their commitment to staff training, Chobe Game Lodge has developed an intesive guide training program which each guide must go through before working at the lodge. The program also includes regular refresher courses to ensure their guides are constantly developing their skills.

Electric Fleet The latest ecotourism initiative launched by Chobe Game Lodge is their fleet of electric vehicles and boats. I unfortunately just missed the official launch of the first game viewer and electric boat, so I didn’t see them in action but I did follow the press release with much enthusiasm. The investment in this fleet is a clear sign of Chobe Game Lodges commitment to leading the way in responsible tourism in Botswana.

Out on safari Of course the Chobe Game Lodge experience is about so much more than the lodge itself. Being one of the largest national parks in Botswana and enjoying some of the highest concentrations of wildlife in Africa, the Chobe National Park offers a safari experience second to none.

I enjoyed several game drives and river cruises during my stay at Chobe and managed to capture moments which I will cherish forever.

October is the end of the dry season in Botswana and with the Chobe River as the only source of water in the region, large herds of game congregate along the waters edge. Its a destination every wildlife enthusiast should experience at least once in their life.

While there are many ways to experience the Chobe National Park, if you enjoy all inclusive safaris and are a conscientious traveller, you’ll love the Chobe Game Lodge experience. •

www.chobegamelodge.co.bw First published in:

Follow Stuart Parker On:

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‘... the emphasis is on connection with the bushveld. By the end of the first day, an undeniable feeling of peace and serenity will have begun to seep into you, unannounced.’ responsible traveller 73

Advertorial Cable car with Lion’s Head in the background

Table Mountain Cableway’s commitment to responsible tourism

T

able Mountain Aerial Cableway Company has been providing visitors with a world-class memorable experience for more than 85 years, and is committed to delivering outstanding service, while being passionate about preserving its natural environment. Working within a World Heritage Site and Table Mountain National Park, the Cableway is fully committed to balancing high volumes of visitors (850 000+ per year) with the need to protect the unique floristic environment within which it operates.

The Cableway takes its role as a custodian of Table Mountain very seriously. However, the Cableway’s responsibility is not only limited to protecting the environment within which it operates. It also extends to other realms of responsible tourism: i.e. social and economic responsibility. In recognition of its responsible tourism practices the Cableway was named the overall winner of the Imvelo Awards for Responsible Tourism in November 2011. The awards recognise tourism and hospitality businesses that make a real, measurable and sustained contribution to Responsible Tourism.

Other milestones are its Platinum Class Heritage Environmental Rating and ISO 14001-compliant certification.

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ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY Resource Management As a responsible tourism destination resource management (water, waste and energy management) is important to the Cableway.

Water management: Water is necessary for our very existence and, as such, is a precious commodity, especially on top of Table Mountain. To preserve the fynbos and prevent depletion of water supplies on the mountain they are serious about minimising their water consumption.

Water-saving measures include: • Installing new recycling toilets, which feature significantly reduced water usage • Changing all flush toilets, other than in the

Advertorial Recycling toilets recycle the water from the hand basins to use in the toilets

Recycling bins at the Lower Station

• • •

•

disabled facilities, to a dual-flush mechanism Fitting the Top Station’s men’s toilets with waterless urinals Using sensor-operated and push button taps throughout their ablution facilities Reducing the amount of grey water generated by a massive 1-million litres by moving the production kitchen to the Lower Station, and using compostable cups, lids, cutlery and straws in their food and beverage facilities Having meters installed to monitor the water usage

Waste Management: The Cableway’s strategy is to reduce the amount of waste produced so that there is less waste to recycle and less waste sent to landfill. Over the period 2009 – 2014 a 52% reduction in waste to landfill was recorded, as well as an increase of 200% in the amount of recycling that was handled at the Cableway.

Measures to improve waste management include: • Appointing a full-time, in-house recycler to ensure that the maximum possible amount of recyclable waste is removed from the general waste stream • Increasing the number of recycling bins so that sorting of waste can take place at source • Installing soda fountains and beer on tap in the Table Mountain Café (this has resulted in a drastic reduction in glass, soft drink cans and plastic bottles. All soft drinks from the

A small choice. A big difference.

Compostable containers – 100% earth-friendly We have chosen to conserve water and minimise pollution by using compostable containers for our food and some of our beverages, instead of using washable crockery.

These 100% compostable containers are made from organic material that turn into nothing but water, CO2 and compost.

COUNTER LINE

Soda founrains & beer on tap responsible traveller 75

Advertorial

•

•

soda fountain and beers from the beer on tap are sold in recyclable PLA cups) All hazardous waste (e.g. printer cartridges, fluorescent lights, medical waste, batteries, etc.) is removed by specialist waste removal companies Suppliers have been asked to reduce the amount of packaging they bring to the mountain or to take back used packaging

Energy Management: The Cableway has implemented the following electricity-saving measures: • Fitting timers and blankets on all essential geysers • Switching off all non-essential geysers • Using energy-saving bulbs in all th light fittings • Fitting timers to all outside lighting circuits • Regulating air-conditioners in their offices to between 18 and 21°C to save energy while still providing comfortable working conditions In addition to this, the energy generated by the descent of our cable cars sees 1 500kWh a month being fed back into the electricity grid.

•

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Having a formal learning pipeline for seasonal staff, ensuring longer employment relationships and skilled staff over season Contributing to Corporate Social Investment / future employability of learners Supporting a staffing philosophy that involves employing more multi-skilled stewards

ECONOMIC RESPONSIBILITY Table Mountain Cableway is serious about responsible tourism. The company supports local communities and suppliers, wherever possible, and aims to grow and develop the relationship with suppliers to produce successful, long-term and mutually beneficial relationships. More than 80% of products sold in the Cableway retail outlets are sourced from local suppliers. The Cableway is also recognised as a Level Four B-BBEE Contributor with a procurement recognition level of 100%.

Tel: +27 21 424 8181 www.tablemountain.net

SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY Class in the Clouds - the Class in the Clouds programme is aimed at South African learners from Grades 1 to 12. It affords learners an educational experience on top of Table Mountain.

It provides the perfect escape from the confines of the classroom and lessons are themed around travel and tourism, geography and environmental studies. Since its inception in 2002 more than 250,000 learners have participated in the Class in the Clouds programme.

Concession tickets - the Cableway recognises the need to contribute positively to communities and organisations in need. As part of its Corporate Social Investment programme, the Cableway supports underprivileged and non-profit organisations by providing tickets (either on a complimentary or concession basis) for a day out on Table Mountain, or by providing tickets which may be used as a competition prize to raise funds for a good cause.

Skills Development - one of the important aspects of the Cableway’s People Brand is that the company is dedicated to assisting employees to reach their full potential by providing opportunities to develop skills. Siyafundisa, the Cableway’s Academy of Learning, was established to address the following business needs: • Having formally skilled employees at staff level 76 responsible traveller

Learners participating in the Class in the Clouds programme More than 80% of retail products are sourced locally

SPOILT

FOR CHOICE

WORK

PLAY

STAY

DINE

EXPERIENCE

RELAX

INDABA HOTEL, SPA & CONFERENCE CENTRE YOUR AFRICAN DESTINATION IN JOHANNESBURG Just north of the fast paced business world of Sandton lies the 258 bedroom Indaba Hotel, Spa & Conference Centre. It is a compelling blend of business-like efficiency and relaxed country atmosphere within close proximity of the International Airport making the Indaba perfect for groups and leisure travellers. The hotel features 24 multi-purpose conference venues ranging from Executive Boardrooms to large Banquet Venues seating up to 500 people. Boasting 2 world class restaurants and the renowned MOWANA Spa, the Indaba Hotel is sure to meet your business and leisure requirements.

W: www.indabahotel.co.za | T: +27 11 840 6600 E: indaba@indabahotel.co.za

THE WONDERS OF

Baleni Words - Daréll Lourens Pics - Daréll Lourens & Deon Pienaar

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Great Plains Conservation - Selinda Camp

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s I walk through the dry Mopani tribal grazing lands of the Mahumani Traditional Authority, towards the last salt water harvesting site of it’s kind in the country, I know I will be forever thankful to Steve Collins from the Africa Safari Lodge Foundation who introduced me to the wonders of Baleni.

It is the end of the dry season in Limpopo, large dark clouds swell above our heads – soon the rains will be here. I am just in time to witness the nearly 2000 year old technique of the Tsonga women where they collect salt-encrusted sand and leach it with ntsobe (water) through xinjhava (filters) made withnwahuva (clay) and nhlangula (leaves) to make salt.

The Baleni camp, part of the African Ivory Route collection, is a traditional Tsonga village camp located near the banks of the Klein Letaba River in the most northern part of South Africa. I have read about African Ivory Route and these remote 80 responsible traveller

camps that they have in incredible areas of South Africa, but the salt harvest was new for me. It got my attention straight away and I knew that even if it was going to be a bit out of the way, I needed to go. And I needed to go right away, as in a few weeks the harvest would succumb to the coming of the rains and the rising of the riverbed.

No harvesting of salt takes place during the wet summer season because the river rises and the salt is too difficult to extract.

Baleni is really unique. Three of the four geothermal sites in the area have been developed into hot spring resorts or spas, forever destroying

Great Plains Conservation - Selinda Camp

Great Plains Conservation - Selinda Camp

‘After washing off my bad luck, I put my shoes back on and follow the guide through the herds of cattle, accompanied by cow bells and the sound of the bushveld...’ responsible traveller 81

The salt harvesting procedure...

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‘...of the many experiences I have had as a traveller and documentary filmmaker, this is as authentic and respectful of local culture as it gets’

an age-old way of life, leaving Baleni the only of it’s kind in the country.

About 10 mins into our walk we reach an open plain with a big vlei of reeds. The smell of sulphur is distinctive. In front of me is a geothermal hot spring – the only known undeveloped hot spring in Southern Africa. The water maintains a temperature of around 42 degrees and the site is sacred for the local Tsonga community, especially for the iZangoma (traditional healers). Bathing in this steamy mineral water is believed to rid you of bad omens.

After washing off my bad luck, I put my shoes back on and follow the guide through the herds of cattle, accompanied by cow bells and the sound of the bushveld.

This is a place where you have to let the ancestors know that you are coming. You are also not allowed to refer to any natural elements by their real name as it is seen as disrespectful.

“It’s a tradition from our grandparents,” Patience once said in an interview, “We use a sacred language because this is the way of our ancestors and they protect this as a sacred place. Our grandparents tell us this is the way, and we do it this way. We do not always have to ask questions or understand everything that is sacred.”

When we reach the giant lead wood tree, we take off our shoes once more and ask the ancestors to welcome us. The smoke from the salt evaporation is everywhere and as I sit there I know that if there is any place that has been a real place, with real traditions and a sense of preservation and respect for culture, it is here.

Without any doubt in my mind I know that of the many experiences I have had as a traveller and documentary filmmaker, this is as authentic and respectful to local cultures as it gets. It is the foresight and dedication of the African Ivory Route that makes this experience possible to outsiders, fostering an appreciation and recognition of other ways of knowing. I would even go as far as saying that this is what responsible tourism is all about. •

www.baleni.co.za First published in:

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What’s news...

Wupperthal’s Champion Riel Dance Troupe set to jet off to LA Die Bushmans Kloof Nuwe Graskoue Trappers Riel dance troupe who come from the remote Cederberg village of Wupperthal, will soon be jetting off to America where they will be representing South Africa at the World Championships of Performing Arts in Los Angeles, between 10 and 18 July 2015.

Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat is the main sponsor of the 17 talented youngsters (aged between the ages of 13 and 19), who recently danced their way to victory at the South African Championships of Performing Arts for the second consecutive year.

Bushmans Kloof Deputy GM/Executive Chef, Floris Smith is the creative force behind the success of the group. A trained dancer and choreographer himself, he devotes his spare time to train and choreograph his ‘Trappers’, with whom he has been working since 2012.

They are currently polishing the repertoire for their performance at the World Championships as part of ‘Team South Africa’. Members of

84 responsible traveller

the Riel dance troupe come from the rural community of Wupperthal and other small towns in the area, and include two teenagers who live on site at Bushmans Kloof where their parents are employed.

Born out of traditional Khoi and San ceremonial dances around the fire, the Riel Dance has been practiced by descendants of these indigenous cultures for many years. Riel dancers are dressed typically in traditional farm workers outfits, the girls in dresses with aprons and old frontier bonnets, and the boys in waistcoats and hats adorned with feathers, finished with the famous, hand-made red veldskoene from Wupperthal.

This traditional dance form is recognised as a creative cultural expression, and includes courtship rituals, mimicking typical animal antics along with lots of bravado, showmanship and foot stomping.

At the recent South African Performing Arts Championships in Rustenburg Die Bushmans Kloof NuweGraskoue Trappers walked away

What’s news...

Turkish Airlines to Introduce Direct Istanbul/Cape Town Flight with the GRAND CHAMPION AWARD for BEST GROUP PERFORMANCE, also having won in three categories: the Ethnic Folk category dancing Riel; the Open Large Group for their Riel Tap routine; and the Open Small Group for their Gumboot routine. Their equally talented Riel band, who will be accompanying the dancers to America, won the OVERALL TROPHY AWARD for the Original Category and took the GOLD medal in both the Open, as well as the Original categories.

Floris Smith has unwavering faith in the ability of this group of dancers and is proud to take them to the world stage to compete among the best of the best. ‘Our sights are firmly set on bringing back the Gold from the World Championships of Performing Arts in July. We have been hard at work sourcing the funding to get our young dancers there and back, and the support from small and large businesses and the local community has been phenomenal. We have already raised almost R780 000, and now only need to fund five more team members to the tune of R65 000 per person.’

Apart from Bushmans Kloof and its owners the Tollman Family, other major sponsors include Rooibos Limited, WESGRO and Reagola IT Management.

Individuals and businesses are invited to get involved and lend financial support to give these talented young people the opportunity to compete on the international stage. The $100 000 (R1.2 million) needed to finance the trip is being raised via YouCaring.com, an online crowdfunding platform that offers a simple and secure way to donate.

By going to DIE NUWEGRASKOUE TRAPPERS ‘PROFILE’ PAGE and clicking on the ‘Give’ button, donations are processed through PayPal or WePay and the funds are forwarded to the fundraiser´s account without delay. No fee is charged bar a minimal credit card processing fee.

That means that nearly every rand or dollar goes directly to the beneficiary. Donors can remain anonymous, unless they would like to share their identity, and the website is scrupulous about its privacy policy.

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Advertorial

SANDTON

INDABA...

J

ust north of the fast paced business world of Sandton in the upmarket residential suburb of Fourways, lies the 258 bedroom Indaba Hotel, Spa & Conference Centre. It is a compelling blend of business-like convenience and efficiency, with a relaxed and warm country atmosphere.

Coupled with easy and convenient access to all main highways, OR Tambo International Airport and a mere 15km from Lanseria International Airport, the hotel features an impressive selection of some 24 multi-purpose conference venues that can accommodate up to 2 000 delegates in total with banqueting facilities for up to 500 guests.

With two restaurants on property, there is no need to leave the comfort of the hotel to enjoy world class cuisine. Our 300 seater Chief’s Boma 86 responsible traveller

Restaurant caters for all tasted with over 120 African inspired dished ranging from North African Moroccan cuisine to Koeksisters and Melktert from the cape – and with a “Shisa Nyama” grill boasting a variety of game meats sizzled to your specification, everyone is sure to find their favourite.

Well known for the lavish full South African Breakfast Buffet, the Epsom Terrace Restaurant also boasts an evening Bistro Menu which will delight even the most demanding gourmand’s

Advertorial

Chief’s Boma Interior (main pic) & exterior (below)

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Advertorial

5 th Block , set in the gardens

exacting standards. A traditional Carvery Lunch with live music can be enjoyed every Sunday with limited outdoor seating available for those who prefer dining al fresco – after all, Jo’burg really has the best weather in South Africa.

Take a wander through the 17 hectares of lush bushveld gardens and you will find the Mowana Spa - a wellness sanctuary which will revive your senses, rejuvenate your body and soothe your soul. The Mowana Spa, which takes its name from the majestic Baobab Tree of African Lore and Legend, offers wellness journeys based on the recognized healing energy of Tribal Massaging.

Signature Pamper Journeys include the decadent Mowana Full Day African Rejuvenation Spa pamper which is an indulgent spa experience including breakfast, lunch, complimentary beverages and six revitalizing treatments; the romantic Mowana African Skies Night Spa pamper with includes dinner, complimentary 88 responsible traveller

beverages and 3 relaxing treatments; and the indulgent Mowana African Escape Spa & Stay Pamper Journey for the ultimate decadent relaxation.

Our commitment to service excellence and staff empowerment through training and mentoring will ensure that your needs are met and your expectations exceeded as you enjoy a Day of Pampering at Mowana Spa. The Indaba Hotel and Mowana Spa are also PROUDLY GREEN ensuring responsible tourism and minimising carbon foot print through extensive recycling of waste products, waterwise gardening, greening conference initiatives, better material choices, minimising power usage and buying local - after all, a better place to live is a better place to visit.

We look forward to welcoming you to our oasis in the City. •

www.indabahotel.co.za

Advertorial Outdoor dining in the Epsom Courtyard

WORK. PLAY. STAY. DINE. EXPERIENCE. RELAX

Stylish and comfortable suites

A variety of conferencing options

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The Cape Route

T

...less travelled

ake the road less travelled with Coffeebeans Routes and get a taste of the Cape that you will never forget. Choose whatever takes your fancy: a jazz safari visiting legendary jazz musicians in their homes, or one of the other routes showcasing revolution, storytelling, food, art, music and design.

The Mother City is proud of its music, food and revolution. But sometimes tourists miss the nuances – it’s not difficult to do so, after all: Cape Town is a tourist mecca, and the V&A Waterfront, Table Mountain Aerial Cableway, Robben Island and the Cape Winelands are must-do’s. But if you are looking for the real Cape Town, there are tours by Coffeebeans Routes that show off the hidden city.

regales visitors with stories of her childhood, and what it was like growing up under apartheid.

Harris says: ‘Hazel is an amazing storyteller, her curry is legendary, and her laugh is infectious.’

One of the most popular tours is the Jazz Safari.

Harris, a journalist, musician and documentary filmmaker, takes guests to the heart of Cape jazz.

There is no one truth about Cape Town or elsewhere – there are many truths.

Cape Town still wears her bells and whistles, but it’s on the other side of town, where the majority live, that the Coffeebeans story unfolds.

Ian Harris and his team have, since 2005, created tours that show off Capetonians from a perspective most tourists never see.

Hilton Schilder, son of legendary jazz musician Tony Schilder, was born and grew up in Lotus River, and now lives in Fairways, on a road separating the two neighbourhoods.

There’s anchor storyteller, and journalist, Hazel Allies, of Bonteheuwel on the Cape Flats, who 90 responsible traveller

Harris and his team take you to Schilder’s home, where the Schilder family will entertain you with music, food, the history of music in the Cape, and the history of Cape Town as seen from their eyes.

Image - Jesse Nedier ©

Jazz Safari host, Mac Mckenzie

If you haven’t heard about goema, then he will play you some. Goema, a variation of jazz, is a sound unique to the Cape Flats. Schilder also plays the piano, guitar, the Khoi bow and the drums. Another Cape Flats jazz legend, and Schilder’s long-standing musical partner, Mac McKenzie, offers a Composers’ Workshop in Bridgetown, Athlone. If reggae is what you like, then Harris will take you to a backyard reggae jam session.

Harris steers away from using clichéd words like ‘authentic’, saying instead Coffeebeans tours are a way for people to experience the true Cape Town. ‘People are seeking a deeper engagement.

Tourism is a medium to tell stories,’ Harris says.

‘Hilton’s life is a great way into the city; it gives perspective. There is no one truth about Cape Town or elsewhere – there are many truths.’

Harris says people are often surprised when they meet John Bauer, a ceramist whose narrative is a personal account of the struggle. The

Revolutionary Route takes tourists to a number of struggle sites.

The company is called Coffeebeans Routes, says Harris, because coffee is universal: ‘Wherever you go people understand coffee, but it has strong political undertones. Coffee houses started as spaces of social reflection.’ Most of their clients are from the United Kingdom, Europe, and the United States. He is also seeing an increase in the number of Brazilians on the routes. ‘People’s perceptions change after they’ve been on one of our tours – many times people say, “Wow, I didn’t expect that.”’

Harris says travel should be fun, but also about challenging your perceptions. And this, he says, is what happens to many people who take Coffeebeans tours. •

www.coffeebeansroutes.com (Source - www.southafrica.net - read original blog post written by Lynette Johns)

Storytelling Route host, Hazel Allies

Image - Donna Lewis ©

‘People’s perceptions change after they’ve been on one of our tours ...’

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What’s news...

Save a Life in your Sleep for World Malaria Day Imagine an African continent where children under five and pregnant mothers were not severely threatened by death because of Malaria? Where a child didn’t die every 60 seconds from this disease and job creation at a grassroots level was continual, not seasonal.

Some of the cool Goodbye Malaria activations...

• • •

It is within our reach.

Malaria is treatable, preventable and can be eliminated in our lifetime. And with the recent World Malaria Day (25th April 2015), a ‘fashion stsement’ was made to save lives. Goodbye Malaria, an initiative by a group of African entrepreneurs is a genuine force for good, taking our greatest strength as Africans - creativity - to solve one of Africa’s biggest problems. Malaria.

Malaria affects 50% of the world today. Since October 2013 Goodbye Malaria has protected more than 120 000 people in Mozambique’s Boane province by spraying more than 35,000 homes, reducing Malaria in this area by 67%.

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Goodbye Malaria has the partners, the people and the passion to make a (real) difference. Our many friends, heroes and partners provide the funding, resources and strategic direction so we can stand strong together to say: “Goodbye Malaria” in as many colourful languages and by as many engaging means to rid us of malaria, once and for all!

Kingsley Holgate, Goodbye Malaria Brand Ambasa-

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Goodbye Malaria started off with the launch of its new website and online shop www.goodbyemalaria.com.

MiCasa – Goodbye Malaria Brand Ambassador represented by J’Something – raced against the clock (and the Gogos from Noluthando 1 Senior Citizens Club) at the Beading for Malaria Challenge. In 24 minutes (representing 24 hours in the daily fight against Malaria), 899 bracelets were beaded. The sale of these bracelets will fund the spraying of 1,797 homes and potentially protect 5,391 lives.

Goodbye Malaria released brand ambassador Kingsley Holgate’s inspiring YOUTUBE VIDEO on World Malaria Day. Kingsley has had Malaria 50 times.

Yvonne Chaka Chaka, another Goodbye Malaria brand ambassador, is a tireless malaria warrior, Princess of Africa and deeply committed to Africa and the Goodbye Malaria Program.

TOGETHER we can say goodbye ‐ totsiens - tchau tchau ‐ hamba kahle ‐ au revoir ‐ adios to Malaria.

Join the Fight against Malaria and get your pair of Shwe Shwe pants too!

www.goodbyemalaria.com

MiCasa Goodbye Malaria Brand Ambasadors

What’s news...

Turkish Airlines to Introduce Direct Istanbul/Cape Town Flight Due to the increasing demand for a direct Cape Town route for international travellers, Turkish Airlines will be launching a direct flight from Cape Town to Istanbul on 26 October 2015, despite many other global airlines recently cancelling this route.

This is according to Zafer Bolukbasi, General Manager of the Turkish Airlines Cape Town branch, who says that Cape Town’s growing reputation as a first class tourism destination is responsible for the growing influx of international travellers.

According to the 2014 Industry Performance Report released by Cape Town Tourism, 54% of annual arrivals at the Cape Town International Airport are accounted for by international passengers. The report adds that international passenger arrivals at Cape Town International Airport increased 14.96% in October 2013 compared to the same month the previous year, while February 2014 showed a 7.88% increase in arrivals versus the previous year.

“While Johannesburg remains the corporate hub of the country, the ‘mother city’ is fast becoming a renowned destination for international travellers, recently rated as the best city in the world by the 2014 Telegraph Travel Awards, says Bolukbasi.”

The Industry Performance Report indicates that 75% of tourists were visiting the city for holiday while 10% were traveling for business.

“We are confident that the direct flight will be adressing a growing need among international travellers to fly directly to Cape Town as well as enabling local Cape Town travellers to reach Europe without any stopovers,“says Bolukbasi.

He notes that for South Africans citizens wanting to travel to Turkey there is no visa charge and all South African citizens can simply visit https:// www.evisa.gov.tr/en/ to attain a hassle free e-visa.

Bolukbasi adds that the City of Cape Town and the Turkish City of Izmir recently signed a co-operation and cultural exchange agreement in December 2014 stregnthening relations between the two cities. At the time, Cape Town mayor Patricia de Lille said that the city was looking at new and unexplored tourist markets and added that the cities were alike in many other ways, including the fact that both wanted to be seen as distinct places of business.

He says that the Airbus 332, which will be transporting passengers daily between Cape Town and Istanbul, has the capacity for 228 economy and 22 business class travellers. A flying chef on board will also prepare and serve candle-lit dinners in the sky to all business class passengers, while economy class passengers will each receive a personal entertainment screen and can enjoy the elegant meal options that are selected from Turkish and world cuisine. “Most of these meals have not been experienced before in the airline catering industry and include authentic options such as sish kebab, karniyarik, manti and imambayildi, hamsili pilav and kuru fasulye – all served with fresh orange juice and Turkish Delight.”

“We hope that the daily, direct flight between Cape Town and Istanbul, which is set to launch in October 2015, will increase international leisure and business travellers to both cities,” concludes Bolukbasi.

www.turkishairlines.com

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SO MUCH TO CHOOSE FROM. ONLY ONE CHOICE. With a portfolio of over 90 hotels and 14 casinos, we have a variety of hospitality and exciting entertainment and leisure experiences in key destinations.

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