Responsible Traveller mag - edition 1 - 2019

R E S P O N S I B L E edition 1 – 2019

be the difference

RESPONSIBLE TOURISM ...where making a difference matters

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Experience the Marine Big Five in their natural environment.

Focused on the protection of African Penguins & sea birds.

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Welcome to another edition of Responsible Traveller.

In this edition we celebrate those that ‘Make a Difference’ ...

From the winners of the African Responsible Tourism Awards (ARTA) 2019 held at WTM Africa in April, to the tourism industry’s commitment to greening and sustainability at Africa’s Tourism Indaba. With the ARTA 2019 finalists and winners being from a number of African countries, we get to ‘travel’ far and wide and experience their best practice examples of how to do responsible tourism well. Be inspired by their stories and encouraged to take responsibility for your impact on communites, conservation and the environment.

This edition we go on a safari with a difference at Amakhosi Safari Lodge - we go frogging and learn about the importance of frogs to biodiversity and to the eco-system... and then we safari to Samara Game Reserve where all things great and small are celebrated, from the Big 5 to plants and other little critters.

We walk the streets of Nelson Mandela Bay’s city centre and are inspired by both the past and the present, learn about Zulu culture at Ghost Mountain Inn and enjoy a little pampering at Fordoun Hotel & Spa in the KZN Midlands.

But as I always say, the responsibility of being a responsible traveller lies ultimately with the person travelling and the choices they make. It’s about choosing to not waste water, to switch off when you leave the room, to stay, shop, experience and eat local... thereby providing employment and contributing to the local economy. By choosing to have conversations with locals and experiencing the ‘real’ destination, you add value and return home with irreplaceable memories.

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

Tessa Magazine Information edition 1- 2019 Publisher / Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published quarterly

Cover Image: Learning about the veld - !Khwa ttu pic - West Coast Way

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents REGULARS: Comment

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Being a Responsible Traveller 05

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DESTINATIONS & PLACES TO STAY: Amakhosi Safari Lodge 32 Ghost Mountain Inn

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Fordoun Hotel & Spa 66 Samara Game Reserve

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Nelson Mandela Bay city walk

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WTM AFRICA 2018 African Responsible Tourism Awards 08

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CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY: Bronze Whalers 40 Treadlight 4x4 74 Antarctica needs Ambassadors

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NEWS: Vergelegen Africa’s Tourism Indaba Greening

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Weisehof Coffee

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Lionscape Coalition

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West Coast Way launch

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Graskop

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www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

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#ARTA19 Celebrating the heroes of Responible Tourism in Africa

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The beach at Anvil Bay

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#ARTA19

African Responsible Tourism Awards Heroes of responsible tourism in Africa will once again be honoured at the 2019 African Responsible Tourism Awards. Following the success of the inaugural event in 2015, this event continues to form part of the prestigious World Responsible Tourism Awards, the world’s most respected responsible tourism awards. Winners of the African awards will automatically be entered into the global awards which take place at World Travel Market in London each November.

With its unique natural and cultural landscapes, Africa offers many opportunities for responsible tourism. Tourism organisations are already growing tourism that preserves, respects and benefits African destinations and African people.

The African Responsible Tourism Awards aims to celebrate the efforts made by individuals, organisations and destinations in Africa. The awards also aim to inspire change in the African tourism industry.

The judging draws on the expertise of carefully chosen professionals from throughout the tourism industry in Africa.

The judges for 2019: Prof. Harold Goodwin: Emeritus Professor Responsible Tourism at Manchester Metropolitan University (MMU) and Founder of the International Centre for Responsible Tourism Sisco Auala: Independent Sustainable Tourism Consultant Dr Harriet Davies-Mostert: Head of Conservation, Endangered Wildlife Trust Darryl Erasmus: Ghief Quality Assurance Officer, South African Tourism Bekithemba Langalibalele: Director: Responsible Tourism, Department of Tourism, South Africa Adriaan Liebetrau: General Manager, Faircity Hotel, Roodevalley

The awards will be presented at a ceremony hosted as part of World Travel Market Africa.

Greg McManus: Managing Director, Heritage Environmental Management Company

Judging Process:

Dawn Robertson: CEO, The Constitution Hill Human Rights Precinct

As part of the World Responsible Tourism Awards family, the judging process for the African Responsible Tourism Awards is chaired by HAROLD GOODWIN, Professor of Responsible Tourism at Manchester Metropolitan University, Director of the International Centre for Responsible Tourism and Chair of the main World Responsible Tourism Awards judging panel since its inception.

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Megan Oberholzer: Portfolio General Manager, Reed Exhibitions Lee-Hendor Ruiters: Regional Manager, National Cleaner Production Centre SA Heidi van der Watt: Managing Director, Better Tourism Africa and Institute of Development Studies, Massey University

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2018 African Responsible Tourism Awards finalists...

A sports event attracting 20 000 participants, an operator specializing in treks up Kilimanjaro and a safari beach lodge are only some of the inspirational organisations selected as finalists for the 2019 African Responsible Tourism Awards (sponsored by Wesgro and organised by Better Tourism Africa).

With the quality of entries high and competition tough, who will take the top spots in each category? And who will scoop the win as the much-coveted ‘Overall Winner’.

The panel of expert judges had their task cut out for them. The Judging Day was held in Johannesburg on 29 March, and after vigorous debate, 15 organisations were shortlisted.

And the Finalists are...

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!Khwa ttu San Culture and Education Centre (SA) @KhwattuSan

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Anvil Bay (Mozambique) @Anvil_Bay

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Cape Town Marathon (SA) @ctmarathon

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Dorobo Tours and Safaris (Tanzania) @dorobosafari

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Events Greening Forum 2018 Conference & Master Class (SA)

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@EventGreening

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GCIP-SA Annual Awards 2017 (SA) @CleantechSA

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Great Plains Conservation Sapi Reserve (Zimbabwe) @GreatPlainsCons

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Grootbos Private Nature Reserve (SA) @Grootbos

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Mdumbi Green Fair Festival (SA) @Mdumbi Green Fair

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Meetings Africa (SA) @SA_NCB

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Panthera Africa Big Cat Sanctuary (SA) @PantheraAfrica

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Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company (SA) @TableMountainCa

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Two Oceans Aquarium (SA) @2OceansAquarium

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Ultimate Safaris’ //HUAB Under Canvas (Namibia) @UltimateSafari1

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WOWZULU Isandlwana (SA) @wowzulu

Awards Categories and Supporters are: •

WESGRO @Wesgro – Headline sponsor

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Bulk SMS @BulkSMS – Gold sponsor

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Singer Group @TheColosseumHotel – Gold sponsor

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Cape Whale Coast @Cape_WhaleCoast – Function sponsor

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MLT Corp @MLTcarhiretour - Car hire sponsor

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Travel Massive Cape Town @travelmassivect – Organising partner

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TravelChatSA @TravelChatSA – Media partner

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Nomad Africa Magazine @NomadAfricaMag – Media partner

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Responsible Traveller @RespTraveller – Media partner

www.africanresponsibletourismawards.com

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Celebrating 19 years of responsible messaging

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#ARTA19

African Responsible Tourism Awards 2019 Finalists: !Khwa ttu – Best Responsible Heritage Experience What makes !Khwa ttu special is not just our rooting in co-learning and co-curation but our drive to push the boundaries of museology and what it means to be an indigenous heritage centre. Our ambition is most powerfully represented in our new museum and especially prominent in our purpose built, eco-building, ‘Way of the San’, with its unique presentation of San ‘traditional’ culture.

Development of the museum was guided by three questions: How can we tell the story of the San in ways that are useful and positive to as many people as possible – from local to international visitors? How can we go beyond co-curatorship to introduce a new kind of heritage centre rooted in indigenous ways of being, thinking and doing? What is the story of the San in our local context and how can we use this story to celebrate local history, local knowledge, and care for local community and environment.

Every element of our exhibitions comes out of extensive dialogue between diverse San communities and world leading educationalists, academics and museum designers. Way of the San combines cutting edge immersive technology with San voices, objects and environments to reveal San skills and creativity and the profound role of the environment in their imaginative and day-to-day lives. To truly begin to understand the San visitors access their worlds through the senses. By appealing to visitors’ feelings, the San world makes sense in a profound way that reinforces how we all belong in the natural world.

The vision of !Khwa ttu is to empower and support the San through heritage and education initiatives. Our San partners additionally wish to engage visitors around issues of climate change and environmental responsibility as living sustainably lies at the heart of ‘traditional’ San lifestyles. Building our museum addresses our core purpose by providing a platform for the San to tell their story in ways of their choosing and our underlying methodology of ‘place-based education’ enables us to address these issues of sustainable living through San heritage.

Our museum represents a real milestone for the San as it is not only the only extensive heritage centre for the San but our centre is entirely cocurated. For San across southern Africa as well as local people who are of San ancestry, having 12 responsible traveller

‘their own museum’ brings them extraordinary pride. At the same time many San have very little idea about other San and delight in discovering their similarities and differences.

In the wider picture it remains remarkable just how little visitors know about the San, including how the genetic story of the San places them and consequently local history at the heart of human origin stories. The plight of the San in the local region tells a story about the San across southern Africa and provides visitors with new ways of thinking about South Africa and southern Africa. Our presentation of San heritage introduces questions about real needs, environmental knowledge and sustainability.

This fulfils our multiple visions of telling a San story and an environmentally relevant story about the relationship between a healthy environment and healthy communities. www.khwattu.org

#ARTA19 Anvil Bay - Best for Community Benefit The company was formed as a joint venture between the Bell Foundation and Ahi Zameni Chemucane (AZC)made up of the 3 local communities–Mabuluco, Vakuza and Tsolombane.

AZC’s40% of the company, Companhia deTurismo de Chemucane (CTC) trading as Anvil Bay was funded by the World Bank and Ford Foundation.

AZC communities are also 100% beneficiaries of the company. 95% of Anvil Bay’s staff are from the 3 communities–staff are accommodated at the lodge for the 3 weeks at work and transported to their villages for their week off as staff rotate3 weeks on, one week off.

In the 20 years before the lodge was built a few of the community members would assist with camp set up and clean up. Once the plans to build were approved local staff were employed with skilled workers to train locals. As the lodge neared completion staff were sent to SACT for hospitality training with the intention that they would run the lodge within 5 years. Having been involved in building the same staff have a good understanding of the structures and layout for ongoing maintenance in the future.

Preserving the location, the sense of place is key – the communities are part of it as is allowing

discerned travellers to enjoy the simple pleasures of nature at its finest–with a touch of class where accommodation provides luxury softs in the casinha (“little home” in Mozambique) built and fitted with all its furnishings made onsite by the staff from these communities.

Anvil Bay is the only lodge in the Maputo Special Reserve (MSR)–a70,000-hectare prime protected area. Bordering the Indian Ocean, the reserve offers tourists a varied experience of pristine beaches, bays, untouched coral reefs, sand forests, savannas, lakes, mangroves and a host of wildlife including an estimated 550 elephants.

Remote with access either by a two hour 4x4trip across the park or 20 minute heli charter from Maputo.11canvas and that tented casinhas (open plan room with ensuite, indoor and outdoor hot/cold showers placed in natural clearings along the coastal forest with a short beach path to the beach–everything is on the sand including beach dining and the restaurant– barefoot luxury. Catering for nature lovers, honeymooners seeking a private, exclusive getaway; a relaxing holiday after a hectic safari trip with early morning game drives; families to have fun and safe quality time together. www.anvilbay.com

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#ARTA19 Cape Town Marathon – Best Sustainable event The Cape Town Marathon is a festival of running bringing elite athletes, social joggers, communities and charities together. It consists of five running races, three workshops, four media conferences and a race exhibition. A PEACE event, promoting global peace, friendship, and harmony, it is endorsed by Francois Pienaar and Elana Meyer.

In 2018 it achieved IAAF Gold Label status (the only marathon in Africa to have ever achieved this); zero waste to landfill and is climate neutral certified. It received the Sports Industry 2018 Mass Participation Event Award and Runners World event of the year award. In 2017 it received the highly acclaimed international AIMS Green award.

Objectives include becoming Africa’s ICONIC city marathon which exhibits and leverage change through its Run4Change Legacy Programme. Regional focus being Africa, South Africa and Cape Town.

Key sustainability achievements: • It attracted 23,000 runners from 82 countries with 10% (marathon entries) coming from outside RSA and a further 44% coming from outside the Western Cape.

• Waste-achieved zero waste to landfill (comprehensive Environmental Plan) • Water–taking the event off the municipal water grid • Carbon-offsetting–measured and off set our carbon footprint and certified climate neutral • Fundraising-charities raised over R2.5m • Development–hosted 2 workshops & implemented the development program • PEACE-the hosting of this International PEACE event with profiling, messaging–bringing the international PEACE torch to the event & hosting PEACE initiatives at 2 community schools.

• Economic Impact is estimated to be R230m with many jobs being created. www.capetownmarathon.com

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Dorobo Tours and Safaris – Best for Community Benefit Dorobo Safaris’ greatest achievement has been promoting cultural dignity and supporting land security for vulnerable communities in northern Tanzania. Through structured, transparent agreements, communities are earning tourism revenue to protect and conserve their land. This revenue also supports their legal rights to land and promotes stable livelihoods for traditional uses for hunter-gatherers and pastoralists.

With our support, our community partners have secured 23,500 hectares of their land for traditional hunting and gathering in the Yaeda Valley. Along the Maasai Steppe, a critical seasonal grazing area for Tarangire National Park’s wildlife population, over27,000 hectares of land has been protected and is being sustainably managed by the local communities for healthy grasslands for livestock and wildlife. With legal certificates to the land and transparent tourism agreements, communities are earning revenue for protecting this vital area against agricultural encroachment, permanent settlement, and charcoal production.

Both these examples have allowed these communities to continue practicing their traditional ways of life. For the 1,000 Hadzabe in the Yaeda Valley & Lake Eyasi basin, they can continue to practice their traditional hunter-

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gatherer lifestyle as they have for thousands of years without fear of land encroachment. Along the Maasai Steppe, Maasai pastoralists can continue their traditional livelihoods alongside over 50 species of mammals who use the area for breeding during the wet season.

This has been Dorobo Safaris’ approach from the very beginning. We believe securing land rights is essential to helping protect the cultures, people, landscapes and biodiversity of Tanzania and we believe local communities are the best situated to be stewards of their land and natural resources. In order to provide clients with an intimate, respectful and unstructured experience our relationships with communities must be mutually beneficial, fair and transparent.

By protecting the integrity and livelihoods of these communities, we maintain a genuine experience that is mutually beneficial for both our visitors’ experience and those they are visiting. It’s evident that this model works. Many of our tourism programs have now been running for over 20 years in the same local communities due to the mutual benefits of both a genuine experience for clients and genuine benefits to the communities, creating sustainability for future generations. www.dorobosafaris.com

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#ARTA19 EGF 2018 Conference – Best Sustainable Event The EGF’s annual conference helps to educate and upskill the various players in the MICE industry (from event organisers to suppliers and venues) so they are better equipped to create greener events.

In this way, our intention is to drive and increase the number of sustainable events being managed each year, as well as to raise the sustainability standard for them, so that the event industry as a whole can improve in this regard.

As the Event Greening Forum our mandate is to promote greener more sustainable events within the industry. We have seen many events come and go and leave along-lasting effect on the environment and local communities.

And because of this impact we believe that it is important for industry suppliers, organisers and venues to start taking note on these effectsand how they each play a role in improving them going forward. The EGF aims to lead by example and provide a platform where our actions are based on the triple bottom line principle of people, planet and prosperity.

Under the direction of Lynn McLeod and Zoe van Niekerk the sixth annual conference, and third annual Master Class, took place at the forum | white light, Lanseria that saw 57 delegates in attendance. The theme for this year’s conference was “Future-proofing your business” and tackled how to develop long-term sustainability in the face of future challenges such as climate change and limited resources.

We believe that in order to get the industry excited about sustainability we needed to make it more attractive for them, we needed to funk it up and this in turn this would start changing mindsets. We also understand that those who

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work in the events industry have incredibly packed schedules, so we have designed our educational events to be short but rich in value and learning opportunities. In order to do this, we wanted the conference and the masterclass to incorporate interactive and engaging activities such as a chef’s table networking dinner, a standing debate, and an onsite sustainability case study. Through the onsite case study delegates got to make to make their own lemon preserve while learning about the venue’s sustainability initiatives and practices.

First and foremost, the venue, the forum | white light offers ample natural light which beams through the stable glass doors on either side.

The venue has a vegetable garden where they grow seasonal produce for banquets, weddings, conferences etc. Moreover, the forum company is constantly looking at areas where it can reduce its impact on the environment and where possible improve to set a new status quo. It has always focused on being a leader in its sector pushing to apply best practice across the business.

The venue also undertook to ensure that the food prepared for the master class, the chef’s table dinner as well as the conference was all locally sourced within a 50km radius of the venue to reduce its carbon footprint. Other programme highlights included planning for a water-sensitive future, key insights into hosting a carbon neutral event, a standing debate on Sustainability – ‘whose responsibility is it really, and how can we work together to achieve a greener outcome for all?’ and a Master Class on “How to activate change in human behaviour to promote sustainable outcomes in your business”. www.eventgreening.co.za

#ARTA19

GCIP-SA Annual Awards – Best Sustainable Event Our client, the United Nations Industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO) oversees the Global Clean tech Innovation Programme for Small and Medium-sized Enterprises (SMEs) in South Africa (GCIP-SA), in conjunction with the Technology Innovation Agency (TIA). This programme is aimed at promoting clean technology innovation and supporting entrepreneurs in growing their SMMEs and startups into viable, investment-ready businesses and initiatives. As such, they believe their showcase event needs to reflect the same commitment and they strive to have their annual awards certified as a green event.

The GCIP-SA Awards is an annual event that recognises SME entrepreneurs across a number of industry categories for clean technology innovations. Our client expects of us to ensure that this event reflects their commitment to sustainability and responsible practice and we make every effort to ensure their objectives are met. This particular event took place at the CSIR ICC in Pretoria–selected for its ISO14001 certification.

We then select our service providers carefully to ensure that each of them has a sustainability vision and that they are able to support and contribute to our vision. We monitor every element of the event–from selection of venue and suppliers; to our invitation and registration process; exhibition stand selection; menu’s and beverage selection; décor, entertainment, gifting and even travel. On average the GCIP-SA Awards attract 250 guests–most of which are from the greater Gauteng area–but also from other centres in the country and a few international participants. Our sustainability goals were to ensure the most sustainable event we could and to achieve certification as a Green Event. Our future strategy includes positioning these events as Carbon Neutral.

Perhaps the biggest challenge has been to get our suppliers to understand what green events involve and to help them identify appropriate products and services that help us achieve our goals. One example is that of our technical supplier (responsible for sound and lighting) and having them move from high-energy lighting systems in 2015 to a completely LED-based lighting system this year. Other instances include getting our client to understand the need for more sustainable table décor and greater use of screen-based menu’s and event programmes.

This year, we avoided any printing and guests were able to see their menu and the overall 18 responsible traveller

programme displayed on large screens in the venue. Gifting has moved from bespoke items to the involvement of local handcrafts and community initiatives where guests have been provided with vouchers to select their own gifts

Great Plains Conservation – Best Species and/or Habitat Conservation Through the acquisition of the rights to trade and offer safari experiences in Zimbabwe’s private Sapi Reserve in 2017, our primary focus, and most significant achievement, has been the conversion of a previously hunting concession of118,000 hectares to one that now purely offers photographic safaris in terms of travel experiences. Since this conversion of the land use to photographic safaris have found a massive, positive impact on how the wildlife now reacts to human presence and activities.

One of the requirements of being awarded this concession was that we needed to create employment opportunities for Zimbabweans.

This has been successfully created through

creation of a Wildlife Protection & Monitoring Anti-Poaching Unit. With daily patrols and clear objectives, the patrol has secured the borders of this vast reserve in conjunction with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife teams.

With the removal of hundreds of meters of wire snares and the like we ensure that the wildlife inside the Sapi Reserve and its borders are now effectively protected. There have been some incursions, but the detection of poached animals has declined significantly since we started operations in the concession.

Great Plains Conservation’s core mission is to create innovative, gold standard, sustainable conservation projects in diverse & threatened wildlife habitats. Most travel companies practice some conservation. Great Plains Conservation, in contrast, is primarily a conservation company that practices low impact tourism to assist making conservation sustainable. Our projects in Kenya and Botswana have allowed large areas to be protected by our presence and we support natural ecosystem processes which reverse negative environmental downward trends by

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applying sound conservation practices and operating the greenest possible camps and safari experiences. Our Vision is clear. We will allow natural processes to fully recover within the Sapi Reserve, which is part of the larger World Heritage Status of the Greater Mana Pools region.

This immediately allows us to formulate and plan selections of what wildlife is needed to repopulate and augment existing wildlife numbers.

These include the likes of, but are not limited to: -elephant, buffalo, zebra and other natural species that need replenishment into the concession.

Going forward it is a discussion point that rhino may be relocated back to the Sapi Reserve in conjunction with the involvement of the Great plains Foundation’s Rhinos Without Borders initiative. At time of writing this project had already successfully introduced 87 rhinos into safe, remote locations within Botswana. This project ion only successful due to the integrated approach and relationships our teams have with all relevant stake holders including that of Government and their applicable departments. www.greatplainsconservatiobn.com

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#ARTA19 Grootbos – Best for Community Benefit

Commerce(www.thelongrun.org).

Since Grootbos Private Nature Reserve established its non-profit organisation, the Grootbos Foundation in 2003 programming has worked to support and address the many challenges faced by the local surrounding communities. Currently the Grootbos Foundation programming reaches over12 000 beneficiaries from our surrounding communities each year. The Foundation addresses vocational education, early learning, sport for development, employability and entrepreneurship.

Each year, Grootbos and the Grootbos Foundation commit to a set of targets and goals set out against each of the 4C pillars ensuring that our commitment is continuously progressing and that new targets areset. Grootbos and the Grootbos Foundation believe in holistic sustainable tourism practice, we call Progressive Tourism ™.

Some of our notable achievements within the community include: • The Green Futures College, which offers vocational education opportunities to a community, which is facing a 50% high school dropout rate, few employment opportunities and no opportunities for tertiary education. These include vocational training in horticulture, conservation guiding and eco-tourism related fields. The aim is to upskill and support members of the community in working towards creating sustainable livelihoods.

• The Football Foundation, supporting community youth through sport for development activities reaches over 9 000 beneficiaries each year. The include both the after-school sports training offered daily and at school sports training support.

Educational programmes are offered in addition supporting the curriculum in conservation, nutrition (our Food for Sport Programme), HIV/Aids awareness (using the Grassroots soccer curriculum) and female empowerment.

• Our careers, employability and entrepreneurship programmes work in 5 high schools across the Overberg and reach over 2500 community youth each yea rin assisting them with forging a future career or starting a business. The Grootbos Foundation supports 3 local early learning centers in the community ensuring that 175 children below the ages of 6 have a safe, educational learning environment.

Supporting the surrounding community is central to the vision of Grootbos Private Nature Reserve and the Grootbos Foundation and is enshrined in the vision of the Grootbos Foundation: The conservation of the Cape Floral Kingdom and the upliftment of the communities therein. Addressing the communities needs and challenges is central to the Grootbos DNA and is enshrined in the commitment to the Long Run’s 4C’s: Conservation, Community, Culture and 20 responsible traveller

www.grootbos.com

#ARTA19 Mdumbi Green Fair (SA) – Best Sustainable Event Our biggest achievement is that 100% of the income revenue goes directly to the community members of Mankosi and surrounding areas. The Mdumbi Green Fair festival was created for many reasons, but the 2 main objectives was to boost the local economy and to fund raise for TransCape NPO who runs major education, health and social programs! How do we boost the local economy?

One of our upmost goals comprises of transferring skills and knowledge to our community members.

Through knowledge comes empowerment and we are proud to say that R85,000 went collectively to our local caterers, security force, cleaners and recyclers, grounds team, accommodation providers and artists. Locally trained by dedicated volunteers, they provided first class services.

Income from the festival carries many families throughout the year, here in Mankosi, as we are one of the poorest areas of South Africa! Secondly, revenue created by the Festival goes to TransCape NPO to run the 15 truly needed projects e.g. Early Childhood Development, Afterschool enrichment programs, Scholarships, HIV/Aids awareness, testing and counselling, Cataract surgery, Microfinance, Sustainable Livelihood project etc. Please fee lfree to look at the above-mentioned website for detailed information on the projects. TransCape was founded in2004 and has to date achieved qualified financial audits on a yearly basis. This makes the Mdumbi Green Fair Festival absolutely unique!

It is our priority for our event to be sustainable because it allows us to evolve and adapt to meet the new and continuing challenges and demands faced every day. It demonstrates that the event is growing in a responsible manner and can reduce the negative impacts, whilst realising the positive benefits for People, Income and Planet.

Mdumbi Green fair Festival exists because it acknowledges the transformational value of society where citizens exercise their rights and proactively contribute to the development processes affecting their lives. Under the parent structure of TransCape, the aim of the festival is to build and strengthen the local citizenry’s ability to play a strong and vibrant role in the socio-economic transformation in their community. www.mdumbigreenfair.com

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#ARTA19 Meetings Africa (SA) – Best Sustainable Event Meetings Africa has been implementing, measuring and reporting on sustainability issues since 2012. There are various principles and practices implemented, but one of the most significant achievements is the establishment of the Sustainability Village where hosted buyers can select their gifts from local suppliers based on a voucher system. This provides guaranteed sales to the SMME suppliers and allows visitors to select their own gift rather than wasteful expenditure on unwanted gifts.

Other things that were implemented included: • Independently certified in 2018 as a sustainable event • Environmental Policy and all suppliers sign the Green Pledge • 12 Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs)and 57 trees were purchased • Green Stand and Green Hotel Awards selected annually • Recycled content used for décor in the pause areas • Full waste management system for organics, recycling and waste to landfill • Carbon footprint calculated annually based on energy consumption, print media, event transport and flights • Locally manufactured pre-printed fabric with shwe-shwe design was used as décor and venue dividers throughout the event • While bottled water could not be banned, a R10 surcharge was placed on the sale of bottled water which went towards the carbon-offset programme-water coolers were provided to reduce bottled water • Compostable food packaging provided for risk catering, and composted afterwards • Focus was placed on procurement of local products such as local food, local printed fabric (shwe-shwe) for décor, local entertainment of non-mainstream bands and appointment of local staff.

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In recent years, the global meetings industry has begun to recognise Africa as a sought-after destination. Meetings Africa is showcasing Africa’s diverse offering of services and products where African associations and African meetings industry professionals can partner to help transform our continent. Meetings Africa is the only annual business events exhibition in the country and is focused on growing local corporative visitors, while building strong networks, an educational platform and an enriching buyers’ programme. Meetings Africa attracts various establishments that can offer accommodation, transport, conference facilities and supporting services. It is essential to walk the talk to ensure that the event showcases how meeting sin Africa can promote sustainability as part of local offering.

The Meetings Africa Team built on the feedback from the previous years and the following green goals and targets were set for Meetings Africa 2018 - waste reduction, energy efficiency, water conservation and eco-procurement. We encouraged the Tefficient management of transport, that accommodation complies with minimum environmental standards and is within walking distance of the event venue and that the event greening efforts were well communicated and marketed to appropriate target groups. We encouraged participation (exhibitors, visitors and contractors) with the view of behaviour change and to raise the profile of the event and we aimed to promote local economic and social development within the host region.

We encourage a triple bottom line approach where possible. We ensured that the greening interventions were monitored and evaluated so that lessons learnt could be captured and improvements made. The green stand award was again given in recognition of exhibitors’ effort, while the greenest hotel award was handed out for the third time. www.meetingsafrica.co.za

#ARTA19 Panthera Africa Big Cat Sanctuary – Best Responsible Attraction Responsible Tourism means an activity or experience that has a positive impact on both the visitor and the animals or people who are being visited. Our vision is to create a world where people, animals and nature are equally respected, acknowledged and loved. At a big cat sanctuary this boils down to three maxims: no interaction, no breeding and no trading.

Panthera Africa Big Cat Sanctuary reveals the truth about what big cats face in captivity. We do this in every way we can: through our different educational visits, volunteer and ambassador program, outreach program to schools through both visits and presentations, tourism talks and presentations, on social media, and every other way we can think of.

We speak on behalf of the animals who are subjected to inhumane conditions as the demand grows for cub petting, walking with lions and canned hunting. We inform tourists about the truth of the big cat industry and who might be unwittingly exploiting animals and creating suffering, and also putting themselves in danger, they participate in interaction such as cub petting, taking selfies and walking with lions.

Panthera Africa is an educational platform where tourists from all over the world, as well as local schools and leadership programs, join our educational visits to see, connect and learn, and ultimately make conscious ethical/responsible decisions afterwards.

Our educational visits are unique in the following ways: we tell the hard facts of the animals we have and the ones we have lost; the interactive stations; the before and after pictures of rescues; the stories and relationship between the owners and the big cats. Through our heartfelt and truthful experience, we change tourist behaviour–one visitor at a time. Visitors have told us that after their visit to Panthera Africa, they cancelled their bookings at walking or petting facilities as a direct result of the information we shared. www.pantheraafrica.com

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#ARTA19 Table Mountain Aerial Cableway – Best for Water Management Table Mountain Cableway is situated in Table Mountain National Park, and in the Cape Floristic Region World Heritage Site, making responsible water management a must. With South Africa also being classified as a water scarce country, and the severe drought that the Western Cape suffered during 2017/2018, responsible water management is now integral to our operations. Despite the high volume of visitors that the Cableway welcomes annually, it is our responsibility that we balance our core business of high volumes of visitors with the sensitive nature of the biosphere in which we are located.

Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company (TMACC)has always been conscious of its water usage as there is no pipeline to take water to the Top Station. All water has to be transported to the top via the cable cars. It is then stored in a reservoir for Top Station usage. In 1997, as part of the major upgrade of the Cableway, ‘Boeing ’toilets (similar to what is being used in aircraft) were installed at the Top Station. These toilets use0.75L per flush as opposed to 11L per flush in a conventional toilet. In 2008, as part of the restaurant upgrade, and as a further measure to reduce our water usage at the Top Station, we moved the production kitchen to the Lower Station, and introduced compostable crockery

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at the restaurant. These measures helped us to reduce our total water usage by 1millionlitresin the following year. In 2012 the Top Station toilets were upgraded in order to be eco-friendlier, leading to further reduction in water usage.

These toilets only use 0.25L per flush. In the years that followed water use has consistently been kept low–with the average water use per person ranging between4.08 and 6.8 litres annually. In 2018 water use was reduced by 1.3 million litres due to the severe water restrictions as well as by switching off the hand basins’ taps in our ablution facilities and replacing these with waterless hand sanitisers, and installing a borehole on the property. Water from the borehole is being used for flushing some of the toilets at the Lower Station.

As a company our actions are driven by our values. One of our values is “TMACC Cares”– this means that as a company the Cableway cares by taking responsibility for everything we do, most importantly putting safety first and being environmentally responsible. Being environmentally responsible means managing our resources responsibly. Our vision for water management is to increase the use of nonpotable water (both borehole and rainwater) to 25%of our total water use over the next two years. www.tablemountain.net

Two Oceans Aquarium – Best Responsible Event Our vision is abundant and healthy oceans. To achieve this the Two Oceans Aquarium has a unique role to play by inspiring and empowering people to see the connections between their actions and the health of the oceans, and to provide practical actions to lighten our footprint, including leading by example. The core essence of our brand is sustainability through environmental education and conservation.

The Two Oceans Aquarium is currently a proud certified Diamond member of the Heritage Environmental Rating Programme. We achieved Diamond status in 2016after maintaining Platinum status, the highest level of achievement in this internationally recognised eco-labelling programme, for five years.

The Two Oceans Aquarium, situated in Cape Town’s top tourist attraction, the V&A Waterfront, has established itself as a leader in raising environmental awareness through its highquality exhibits, its conservation and education programmes, and its sustainability initiatives.

It is a well-recognised and respected brand associated with beautiful and creative displays

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of diverse marine life from southern African waters; caring, dedicated, passionate staff and volunteers; quality educational experiences; wholesome entertainment; excellent visitor service levels; family fun, and always offers something new to discover and take home as lasting memories.

To raise awareness of the oceans, the Two Oceans Aquarium is designed to showcase the beauty and diversity of the oceans off southern Africa. Its awe-inspiring exhibits aim to encourage love, respect and understanding of our oceans so that people are motivated to take action for their future wellbeing and to use marine and other natural resources sustainably.

Through fun, interactive exhibits, state-of-the art education programmes, and innovative communication campaigns, the Aquarium offers a world-class, safe, clean and all-weather experience, all designed to ensure quality family time and unforgettable memories. The Aquarium caters for everyone–local, national and international people from all walks of life and all age groups. www.aquarium.co.za

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#ARTA19 Ultimate Safaris’ //Huab Under Canvas – Best for Community Benefit In 2009 the Ministry of Environment and Tourism translocated six desert adapted black rhino to the Huab Conservancy with the intention of catalysing tourism in the area and generating much needed revenue for the local people.

Unfortunately, being located in an extremely remote and largely inaccessible area, the Conservancy was not initially able to attract any potential partners. Ultimate Safaris is well known for pioneering safaris into remote areas and was already interested in this one so, after months of exploration, they signed a joint venture agreement with the Conservancy in May 2016.

This was to begin small-scale tourism operations in the area, even knowing the challenges which would be associated with running operations at such long range. The idea was to stimulate a local economy by providing tourism activities in an area that many other companies had shied away from.

Ultimate Safaris (US) is a truly Namibian Conservation Travel Company, dedicated to the protection, conservation and sustainability of the areas in which we operate as these are some of the most pristine and delicate wilderness areas on earth. By offering authentic, life enriching safaris that benefit not only our guests but also the places and people we visit, we have Namibia’s well-being at the forefront of everything we do. As the tourism industry continues to expand, it becomes ever more vital for it to protect and conserve our Natural Heritage as that is part of what attracts tourists.

The continuing development of what we can offer to visitors coming to the //Huab

Conservancy increases the potential for bringing revenue into this area and thus helping to transform the lives of those living there. Turning largely inaccessible and uneconomically viable tracts of land into productive and income generating areas produces a major change in the mind-set of the local population, allowing them to see the benefits from conservation and rural development, and making them even more enthusiastic in their support for conservation.

Continuing benefits will be derived from rental which is paid to the Conservancy committee, increased employment with salaries paid directly to employees from the Conservancy, and the provision of support and supplies to the Joint Venture which are paid for direct to the service supplier. A programme for providing firewood to the camp is already established, and this will be supplemented soon by provision of locally grown vegetables and a solar powered laundry service.

The resources necessary to establish these new ventures will be sourced from other agencies and the guaranteed income from supporting the Under Canvas operation as their key tenant will be a significant factor in making these new ventures appealing to donors. Once established, these operations will be rented out to anyone wanting to run them on a commercial basis and the revenue from that rental will go straight to the Conservancy for use in its developmental plans for the area. Once these venture have been proved to be sustainable, they will set a precedent for similar ventures that can also be supported by the Under Canvas operation, but they may then also be able to operate independently. www.ultimatesafaris.na

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#ARTA19

WOWZULU Isandlwana – Best Responsible Cultural Experience Africa!Ignite’s most significant achievement is through WOWZULU Sustainable Tourism, a community-based tourism model which we implement with partners in seven rural and peri-urban tourist destinations across KwaZuluNatal(KZN). WOWZULU’s main objective is to ensure that previously excluded communities on the doorstep of popular tourist destinations start to participate equally in the tourism economy.

They do this by offering a range of authentic, active cultural experiences to tourists and by selling handcrafted products that are produced using ancient techniques that are embedded in Zulu culture.

The model is about creating ‘inclusive destinations’, which fuse together the commercial and community-based components of the destinations. WOWZULU Marketplaces, at the entrance into community tourism areas, are catalysts for opening up the communitybased areas to tourism. The locations are: Khula Village,St Lucia, iSimangaliso Wetland Park, Inanda Valley, Durban, eMazizini, Drakensberg

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Amphitheatre, KwaNzimakwe, South Coast, Ballito, iLembe District and Tembe, KZN Far North and Isandlwana, KZN Battlefields.

Our vision for Isandlwana, is that British and South African tourists who visit Isandlwana as the site where a Zulu impi conquered a British regiment on 22 January 1879–at the time allegedly the biggest defeat of the British army at the hands of a so-called ‘native’ army–will want to spend time learning about the culture of communities whose history and culture have been intertwined with this historical site for centuries. We would like to help the local community in Isandlwana Village to create more active cultural experiences in which tourists can participate, and to assist local artists and handcrafters to create more products that can be sold to tourists.

In particular, we wish to encourage more tourists to travel from Isandlwana to visit the Wire Nest Craft Cooperative, located in Nondweni Village where the French Prince Imperial was killed during the Anglo-Zulu War, and to either watch women at work hand-embroidering on recycled

mealie bags or other polypropylene fabric bags, to create products that are sold across the world, OR learn a new skill and create their own small embroidery piece which they can take away.

Africa!Ignite aims to bridge the gap between urban and rural by creating opportunities for rural communities to earn a decent living, improve their knowledge and skills, tell their stories and assert their rights. Showcasing local people and cultures is core to achieving this.

We have often seen how visitors love the beauty of KZN’s dramatic landscapes and of picturesque rural villages that complement it and enjoy meeting people who are close to and live lightly on the land, consuming little of its resources.

The ‘spirit of Ubuntu’ is also alive in Zulu rural communities who are close to their rich cultural roots, have time for others and make visitors feel welcome and at home.

These communities are however plagued by poverty and unemployment, and we believe that they can capitalise on cultural tourism to reduce poverty and generate income. Tourism can also help often side-lined communities to share their stories and make their voices heard; and

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can help to conserve the best of their cultural heritage and affirm women as the custodians of traditional handcraft. The isolated community of Isandlwana Village, who live in the valley below Isandlwana Mountain where the battle unfolded, there are hardly any job or business development opportunities other than tourism.

It is therefore important for them to showcase their community and rich culture in order to generate income and create businesses. The Isandlwana Lodge, which was built into the rocky hill from which the Zulu commander looked out across the battlefield and onto Isandlwana Mountain, sits right above the picturesque Isandlwana Village and in the mornings guests can hear and watch the village wake up as cows low and smoke rises from fireplaces.

There is an excellent opportunity to convince visitors to the Lodge, as well as to neighbouring Fugitive’s Drift Lodge and Rorke’s Drift Hotel to participate in contemporary cultural experiences that complement the historical tours. This creates an excellent opportunity for the community to benefit from increased tourism income. www.wowzulu.co.za

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HANGKLIP - KLEINMOND HANGKLIP KLEINMOND

• BIRD WATCHING • BLUE FLAG BEACH AT KLEINMOND • HAROLD PORTER BOTANICAL GARDENS • KOGELBERG BIOSPHERE, RECOGNISED BY UNESCO • STONY POINT PENGUIN COLONY, BETTY’S BAY • WILD HORSES

HERMANUS • CLIFF PATH WITH FYNARTS SCULPTURES & MODEL SOLAR SYSTEM • FERNKLOOF NATURE RESERVE & HIKING TRAILS • GROTTO & HAWSTON BLUE FLAG BEACHES • HERMANUS WINE ROUTE • KAYAK, SURF, WIND-SURF, KITE-BOARD • MOUNTAIN BIKE ROUTES

STANFORD

• BIRD WATCHING • HISTORICAL WALKING TRAIL • PANTHERA BIG CAT SANCTUARY • PHILLIPSKOP MOUNTAIN RESERVE ROCK ART • PROCLAIMED HERITAGE VILLAGE • RIVER CRUISES ON THE KLEIN RIVER • STANFORD WINE ROUTE

GANSBAAI • AFRICAN PENGUIN & SEABIRD SANCTUARY • CASTLE BEACH BLUE FLAG PILOT • DANGER POINT LIGHTHOUSE • DUIWELSGAT HIKING TRAILS • HORSE RIDING • MOUNTAIN BIKE ROUTES • SHARK CAGE DIVING WITH BLUE FLAG BOATS • WORLD RESPONSIBLE DESTINATION WINNER

#BetterTourism

HANGKLIP KLEINMOND TOURISM + (27) 28 271 5657

www.kleinmondtourism.co.za

HERMANUS TOURISM

+ (27) 28 312 2629

www.hermanustourism.info

STANFORD TOURISM

+ (27) 28 341 0340

www.stanfordinfo.co.za

GANSBAAI TOURISM

+ (27) 28 384 1439

www.gansbaaiinfo.com

CAPE WHALE COAST

tourism@overstrand.gov.za

www.whalecoast.info

What’s news...

Bontebok Babies Thrive at Vergelegen Wine Estate One of the rarest antelope species in Southern Africa is thriving in the unexpected setting of a Somerset West wine estate. Vergelegen, which hosts 100 000 local and international visitors annually, has welcomed nine newborns to its growing bontebok herd this summer.

There are currently 50 bontebok on the 319-yearold estate, which was acquired by Anglo American plc in 1987.

Bontebok (Damaliscus pygargus pygargus) are recognisable by purplish highlights on their sleek chocolate-brown coats, a white rump patch, and a white blaze on their faces. They once roamed the Southern Cape in large numbers, but hunting decimated them to only 17 in the world. These animals were saved by the van der Bijl and other farming families, and in due course the Bontebok National Park was established. There are now between 2500 and 3000 bontebok in the world.

“We first welcomed 13 bontebok to the estate about 10 years ago,” says Vergelegen CEO Don Tooth. “Our conservationist at that time, Gerald Wright, was on the advisory board of the Helderberg nature reserve. He and City of Cape Town vet Dr Elzette Jordan noted that the reserve was becoming overpopulated with bontebok.

‘There was insufficient grazing to support all the animals. Some mineral deficiencies, especially zinc and possibly copper, were also becoming apparent. The animals were captured and transferred to us, with the understanding that nine antelope would always belong to the City.”

The buck were treated for ecto-parasites and given copper and zinc supplements, and have since thrived on the estate’s lush indigenous and pasture vegetation. There are now three breeding groups established on the estate,

says Vergelegen environment manager Eben Olderwagen. Each group consists of one ram and seven to eight ewes, with the nine newborns distributed among them. Another group of about five young rams travels together, after being chased out of the herds by other bontebok, while more young rams roam the property in small groups of two or three.

“They are completely free roaming,” says Olderwagen. “I monitor them regularly and if we note something is wrong then we will arrange for treatment, but other than this they look after themselves.”

The animals not only complement the biodiversity of the 3000-hectare estate – of which 1900 hectares were declared a private nature reserve last year – but have also played their part in pioneering social studies, says Tooth.

Some years ago, Dr Anja Wasilewski of Marburg University in Germany researched bontebok at Vergelegen and the Tygerberg and Helderberg nature reserves. Dr Wasilewski investigated their social bonds, relationships, scent communication and use of space, leading to greater understanding of the bonteboks’ complex social systems.

“The Vergelegen team is proud to have played a small part in helping ensure the sustainability of this outstanding antelope breed,” says Tooth.

“Care for the environment is key at the estate.

Vergelegen was the first Biodiversity and Wine Initiative champion back in 2005, and we are committed to making the estate a prime destination for future generations to enjoy.” •

www.vergelegen.co.za

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Knee deep in mud...

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Elephants on the water’s edge amongst the reeds

words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann responsible traveller 33

I

was knee deep in water in the middle of the African bush – in Big 5 territory… the muddy water trickling into my gumboots, my toes squishing with every step.

We’d seen lions and elephants that morning and a couple of dagga boys (old male buffalo) on our drive here. They’d possibly been wallowing in the exact spot I was standing! But we weren’t here for lions, buffalo or any other big game.

Our attention was on some little critters, one might say the more important critters, seeing as they are an indicator species.

We were wading through the reeds along the margins of a shallow marsh looking for frogs with Alwyn Wentzel, General Manager at Amakhosi Safari Lodge in northern Zululand, KwaZulu-Natal.

It was the school holidays’, so Alwyn and Sonja’s daughters had joined us. They had the right idea, as after a couple of gumboot submerging steps into the mud, they ditched their boots in favour of going ‘au naturelle’ and experiencing a mini mud bath in the process – it looked like fun and I was quite envious wishing that I had worn shorts so that I could ditch my boots and feel the mud squelch through my toes.

It was dusk when we arrived at the waterhole.

Covered in bug spray from top-to-toe and armed with a headlamp as well as much anticipation we walked towards the seasonal waterhole.

With winter approaching it would soon dry out, but for now it was a haven for amphibians, a wallowing hole for buffalo and rhino, and a source of refreshment for all the other creatures and critters.

We were a week or two too late for the peak frogging season as all we manage to see are a few painted reed frogs (male, female and one still sporting its breeding colours), a snoring puddle frog, a sharp-nosed grass frog and a heard a mottled shovel nosed frog who was determined not to be found - he burrows down into the mud and his call is heard through a crack in the ground.

We see the empty nest of a foam nest frog, but no evidence of the frogs themselves.

Glancing down I spot a leaf floating on the water, but on closer inspection it was a water brooding bug. Alwyn tells us that it’s a vicious predator 34 responsible traveller

Water brooding bug

Snoring puddle frog (Phrynobatrachus natalensis)

Heading into the reeds

Muddy toes and a sharp nosed grass frog (Ptychadena oxyrhynchus)

The mud and reeds of the wetland

Below: (left to right) Painted Reed Frog (Hyperolius marmoratus) subspecies taeniatus)... male, female and male in breeding colours

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Some of the other game we saw - buffalo, lion and white rhino

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that feeds on frogs and small fish and has ‘one heck of a bite’. I choose to stay clear of it!

We head to another dam to see if we would have more luck. A sneaky young crocodile spots us and follows our movements along the water’s edge. We hear a bubbling kassina, but he remains elusive. Alwyn apologises for the lack of frogs and explains that the frogging season is very weather dependant, starting with an explosion of life at the first summer rains and continuing for a few months until all the mating and frolicking is dealt with – somewhere between mid-November towards the end of March, depending on when the rains start.

‘And then where do they go?’ I ask. He explains that some burrow into the mud, others find refuge under rocks or in the hollow of a tree trunk, biding their time until the next seasons rains arrive. Something we’ll have to do for the full frogging experience – I don’t mind though as it’s just another reason to visit Amakhosi again!!

Over coffee the next morning I chat to Alwyn to get the inside story on frogging…

I ask him what a frogging experience offers and he tells us that ‘it’s a different experience to bouncing around the bush on a vehicle looking for the Big 5’. He emphasises that it ‘introduces guests to the micro-world which is the foundation of the eco-system, the essential building blocks to it and that the big, beautiful animals only exist because of this. And when you go into wetland and river environments you start delving into the importance of these systems.’

‘When we frog with guests, we share the importance of wetlands and the river systems...’

‘When we frog with guests, we share the importance of wetlands and river systems – which is knowledge they can take home with them. Wetlands are critically important places; the world is running out of water – even high rainfall countries – and it’s critical that we start conserving these systems and frogs are a wonderful indicator species of the health of these systems and in turn a critical link in the cycle.’

I ask Alwyn how he started frogging… ‘Years ago, when I was still a junior guide, most of the topics of the natural world were covered in our training – like the stars, trees, birds and game.

But there wasn’t much in the way of information on frogs, only Vincent Carruthers book on frogs and frogging.’

‘One thing I remember, when driving in summer in the various game reserves you’d hear all this noise but didn’t realise how many responsible traveller 37

different species of frogs there were. You see toads everywhere, but once you go into the environment you see these beautiful intricate little creatures with fascinating lifecycles. So, it all started with something I didn’t know much about and decided to learn, firstly with Vincent Carruthers book on frogs and the CD of calls that came with it’

book, and there has been a move back to the science of the species, with some frogs being reclassified and a new one recently identified – the Phinda rain frog. Both tourists and the game lodge industry are better educated now with regards to what conservation really is – ‘it’s not just conserving the likes of lions and elephants’ he tells us, ‘it’s about the eco-system’.

He tells us that the whole industry has come around to frogging and that there’s a lot more information around now. Vincent has updated his book which is now a full frogging guide

‘For me it’s a very fascinating world, and frogs are very different to any other creatures… they don’t go by the same rules and are much safer to handle that most reptiles. It’s a hands on,

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‘It’s a different experience to bouncing around the bush on a vehicle looking for the Big 5...’

fun activity that takes guests out of the game viewing vehicles and into the bush.’

With a wry smile, he adds ‘but still I think most people are inclined to pick a topic like birds or trees before frogging, which isn’t for everybody.’

Perhaps they should visit Amakhosi Safari Lodge and spend a few hours with Alwyn, I think to myself, I’m sure they would soon become avid frogging enthusiasts. •

www.amakhosi.com responsible traveller 39

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Gansbaai’s new gold

Bronze Whalers shine...

Bronze whaler - pic: Jax Bath

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

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B

CONSERVATION PROFILE

ronze whaler sharks have become the new stars at Gansbaai’s shark cage diving boats. The team from Marine Dynamics / Dyer Island Conservation Trust tell of the ecosystem shifts they are seeing and what is happening with the white sharks which still visit Gansbaai but are less predictable than before.

Bronze whaler sharks (Carcharhinus brachyurus) otherwise known as the copper shark because of its distinctive colouration is the new star at the shark cage diving boats in Gansbaai.

This species is found in temperate waters and usually seen in groups.

Bronze whalers can grow up to 3.3m in length during its 25 to 30-year lifespan. Their copper/ gold colour is distinctive, and this species is very active around the boats leaving nature lovers and divers enthralled. It is not known to be predatory to humans, but itself faces fishing pressures and is considered near threatened by IUCN – International Union for Conservation of

Nature. Marine Dynamics, together with other operators, is working towards a no catch policy in the Kleinbaai area.

“After what has been a couple of tough years in the industry following predation on white sharks by Orca in 2017, shark cage diving operators have been reminded how fragile the ecosystem is and the necessity of protecting it,” says Wilfred Chivell, owner of Marine Dynamics and founder of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust. “Our conservation work has been reliant on the success of the commercial business and our guests supporting our conservation work. Shark cage diving companies are the

Bronze whaler coming up to the shark diving cage - pic: Ralph Watson

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conservation tool of the great white shark through daily observational data that can drive conservation decisions. In fact, Marine Dynamics has 14 years of data and numerous scientific publications on white sharks.. Shark eco-tourism is a non-consumptive industry where the economic value of live sharks is worth more to South Africa than fishermen can make from a dead shark.”

“We first noticed bronze whalers at the shark boats in 2013 and it has been amazing to see how they have adapted to the area in the absence of white sharks. The only other way that people are able to see bronze whalers is if scuba diving on the sardine run, which is limited to a few weeks in June and July” says shark biologist Alison Towner. Towner and the team from Marine Dynamics / Dyer Island Conservation Trust dealt with the washed up great white sharks (Carcharodon Carcharias) in 2017 – retrieving and doing necropsies on site to confirm orca predation. The team was called

CONSERVATION PROFILE

out in May and again in June 2017 to retrieve the carcasses of four white sharks – a female of 4,9m and three males at 3,6; 4,5m; and 4,1m.

All four sharks had consistent open wounds and were found to be missing their livers. This indicates what is known of orca predation on sharks as they attack and stun the shark into tonic immobility and the buoyant liver rises to the surface through the injury. The squalene rich liver is the only part that the orcas appear interested in although the one male shark was also missing a heart.

During this time and since, great white sharks’ sightings have been unpredictable causing much consternation among shark cage diving operators, who employ hundreds of people and have many directly and indirectly dependent on this successful tourism venture that attracts up to 85000 visitors to Gansbaai.

The orca (Orcinus orca), also known as the killer whale, belongs to the dolphin family and is the only know natural predator of the very legendary apex predator, the great white shark.

In the last two years there have been more frequent sightings of Orca in the Gansbaai area. There has always been speculation as to how the orca’s affect shark behaviour and this is confirmation that some orca’s do indeed pose a serious threat to the already vulnerable population of great white sharks on the South African coastline. This is the first time worldwide that a white shark has been necropsied after an orca predation and this is the first official observation of orca predation on white sharks in South Africa.

Internationally, orcas have predated on white sharks off the Farallon and Neptune Islands (known white shark aggregation sites off California and Australia) and while footage of the predations exists, due to the offshore location of both areas no carcasses were available for necropsy.

The Orca pair believed to be responsible for the white shark deaths are Port and Starboard. This famous pair of males have been regulars along the South African coastline for many years, but they move great distances having been as far West as Luderitz in Namibia and as far East as Port Elizabeth.

They are distinguished by their flipped over dorsal fins, one to the left (Port) and one to the right (Starboard). Prior to the white shark predations, they were documented hunting seven gill sharks in False Bay using the same responsible traveller 43

CONSERVATION PROFILE method of attack. It is assumed that they must be facing some food source pressure thus seeking out the nutrient rich liver of other sharks.

The Dyer Island ecosystem is complex and delicate, and the white sharks are an important apex predator in the region, for keeping the abundant Cape fur seal population in check.

The great white sharks along the South African coastline are transient and can undergo lengthy migrations between sightings.

The shark cage diving industry has a limited permitted area in which to operate and sightings have been incredibly variable throughout the last two years with some good patches of white shark sightings and then absences for weeks at a time. Port and Starboard are sighted along the South African coastline sporadically. Thankfully the bronze whalers have continued to enthral, but only after some successful negotiations with local fishermen. Bronze whaler sharks are a legally fished species and the team has motivated to have an exclusion zone but await the confirmation from government.

“We are facing interesting and challenging times for our ecosystem. Just a couple of years ago we were wondering where our southern right whales were and then unexpectedly have had the highest count ever. The number of calves seen in 2018 proves that the whales do not have to mate on our shores and again raises more questions that only future study will answer. Whilst some white sharks have travelled eastward, we also know that two longliners are sitting off our coast and white sharks could be bycatch.

“We also lose 20 to 30 white sharks each year in the Kwazulu-Natal shark nets. We are putting pressure on government to address the various fishing pressures the sharks face. Right now, the shark cage diving industry is the only protection white sharks have. The additional pressure from the Orca’s, whilst a natural predator, is a pressure they white sharks cannot sustain.

With a low genetic diversity, slow maturing age, pressure from overfishing, shark finning, losses to the shark nets, and other factors, the Orca may just be their tipping point.

“Without our daily monitoring, we would be none the wiser to these changes in our ecosystem, adds Chivell. “We have had to shift our thinking and adapt our business to cope with these changing circumstances. It is not easy, and we are grateful to our clients that love the bronze whalers.”

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DEAD BRONZE WHALERS In March the Dyer Island Conservation Trust team was alerted to the carcasses of eight large bronze whaler sharks at Die Plaat, Gansbaai.

On arrival, the team found three of the eight dead sharks. It is assumed that the rest were taken away to be sold, as the bronze whaler is a commercially fished species. Even though bronze whalers are generally regarded as low value there is a market for both their meat and fins for export in South Africa.

Of the three shark carcasses left on the beach, the DICT team were able to confirm that all were reproductively mature, measuring around 3 meters each. One was a heavily pregnant female with the tail of a pup expelled from her cloaca. The team removed the pup and decided to open the mother shark to attempt to save

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Deceased bronze whaler washed up on the beach - pic Hennie Otto

any other remaining pups. Another 13 full grown shark pups were found, likely just days away from birth, but unfortunately all the pups were deceased due to the extent of time the shark had been dead.

Bronze whaler sharks do not reach maturity until approx. 20 years old and this information is important as it supports the fact that the Walker Bay waters, like False Bay, are being utilised as feeding areas for pregnant sharks and even possibly a nursery area for this IUCN near threatened species. More carcasses washed up in Walker Bay bringing the estimated total to 16.

The bronze whaler shark (Carcharhinus brachyurus), also known as the Copper shark, is a frequent visitor to the Western Cape coast specifically in summer months when small pelagic fish such as sardine and anchovy are most abundant. These sharks were likely

entangled in the nets of the purse seine vessels while catching anchovy in Walker Bay. Some sharks had gaff marks on their tails, a hooklike boat tool that would be used to pull these sharks from the nets. During the same week these carcasses were found, up to 30 vessels were fishing in the region. The shark carcasses will be necropsied by the DICT team and samples will be shared for various scientific projects on the species including genetic and diet studies.

(The retrieval and necropsy of one shark costs around R20 000. Should you wish to support the work of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, please see their website. This non-profit is a registered Public Benefit Organisation (PBO 930032314) with a BEE Level 1 status.)

www.dict.org.za

Tourism partners, friends, and media, responsible traveller 45

CONSERVATION PROFILE DYER ISLAND CONSERVATION TRUST LOOKS AT THE BIGGER PICTURE AND THE JOURNEY AHEAD gathered at an evening event in April 2019 with the team of Dyer Island Conservation Trust and Tourism partners, friends, and media, gathered at an evening event with the team of Dyer Island Conservation Trust and Marine Dynamics to look back at nearly two decades of research, conservation and education achievements. “Our marine environment is under immense pressure and over the last two decades that Marine Dynamics and Dyer Island Cruises have been in operation, we have been witness to it. Throughout our dedicated work, we continually identify gaps in marine conservation, science, and awareness in their area.”

The Dyer Island ecosystem is a complex and incredibly diverse habitat supporting the Marine Big 5 – sharks, whales, dolphins, seals and the endangered African penguin. We are a team of dedicated biologists, expert support crew, a dive team, and volunteers from all corners of the planet. Driven by a sense of purpose and responsibility the team’s greatest role every day is to ensure a positive interactive experience, monitor marine species and educate guests. The daily observational data from the eco-tourism vessels is critical and plays a large role in monitoring of species and forms the basis for our scientific publications. Scientific evidence is imperative to being able to influence policy decisions. We have 18 years of consistently collected observations from Dyer Island Cruises and 14 years from Marine Dynamics some of the world’s most extensive databases that exist for Southern African marine species.

The question of whether tourism does enough to conserve the wild habitat and species upon which their experiences are based, has been raised. Owner and founder of Marine Dynamics and the Dyer Island Conservation Trust spreads the message that “Your Choice Makes a Difference’ encouraging tour operators and travellers that choosing ethical operators is a way of giving back and ensuring your spending contributes to so much more.

Our key message was that even though we may be in a small part of the world, much can be achieved on a global level, with a dedicated team. Past achievements of conservation for the white shark and endangered African penguin were shared. The team also does Baited Remote Underwater Video (BRUV) studies, estuary monitoring, tagging of smaller shark species, seabird monitoring, shark egg collection – all in efforts to understand and protect this delicate ecosystem.

“HOPE, ACTION and URGENCY will continue to drive our conservation and community work. We use events like this to spread the word and to effect change. Change becomes reality when people are informed about issues,” said Chivell. “We hosted the auction and raffle to add some fun to the event and were grateful to raise R28 500 which will support the efforts of the Trust. None of our work is possible without the support of our private and corporate donors, and the invaluable support of our conservation partners and the tourism industry.”

The event was held at the Two Oceans Aquarium who very kindly sponsored the venue in their incredible new predator exhibit room. Liezel van der Westhuizen was the MC and made sure to keep the audience entertained with her amazing energy and clear passion for marine conservation.

The auctioneer MC du Toit made the bidding on items very entertaining and upbeat, sparking lots of laughs from the guests. So many people came together to help us have a great evening sharing our conservation journey with our travel partners, media, and friends.

Read the original post on the DICT blog HERE

Click HERE for more info on scientific achievements... and the websites below for more information. www.marinedynamics.co.za www.dyerislandcruises.co.za www.dict.org.za www.marinedynamics.org/academy

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CONSERVATION PROFILE April 03, 2019 Dyer Island Conservation Trust event at Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town

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What’s news...

The Travel Corporation and TreadRight Continue to Take on Plastics in 2019 The TreadRight Foundation, with its close ties to its partners and annual funding sources, and The Travel Corporation’s (TTC) family of brands, continues its active push back against singleuse plastics this year. To highlight its respect and recognition for Earth Month, TTC recently announced that, from the beginning of its 2019 operating season, its brands (Trafalgar, Insight Vacations, Luxury Gold, CostSaver, Brendan Vacations, Contiki, AAT Kings and Inspiring Journeys will no longer make available singleuse plastic bottles on its coaches. These brands join sister companies Uniworld, Red Carnation Hotels and U River Cruises, which have already removed plastic water bottles from their operations previously.

With single-use plastic water bottles no longer being made available on its coaches, TTC and TreadRight maintain their combined momentum on its unnecessary single-use plastics elimination initiative, announced in June last year. (TTC committed publically to eliminating all non-essential single-use plastics

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across all operations by 2022, across all of its brands.) This latest initiative is expected to reduce plastic waste by several hundred thousand plastic bottles per year.

“Our passionate, caring global team is unified in its total commitment to our mission to make travel matter. This means changing a number of ways we’ve operated in the past. This announcement marks an important next step in fulfilling our pledge to eliminate all nonessential single-use plastics across our all our operations by 2022,” says Brett Tollman, Chief Executive, TTC and founder of The TreadRight Foundation. “We are working with our partners on the ground to make sure guests still have access to clean drinking water and will be identifying convenient points along the way they can safely and responsibly source drinking water. We will also be continuing our active efforts to find innovative ways to remove the few remaining single-use plastics throughout our organization’s hotel properties, such as shampoo and body lotion plastic bottles.”

What’s news...

In addition to announcing that single-use plastic water bottles will no longer be available for purchase on all coaches, TTC brands Trafalgar, Insight Vacations, Luxury Gold, CostSaver, AAT Kings and Inspiring Journeys will be eliminating several hundred thousand pieces of single-use plastics from their operations by moving away from the use of nonbiodegradable name tags for all guests on their trips. Further, these brands are also replacing single-use plastic luggage tags with reusable, durable luggage tags.

Contiki is also trialing a very innovative, longlasting silicon one liter water bottle, with a 300-use charcoal filter, on a number of its trips this year around the world. This provides the traveller with a very usable, foldable and attractive water bottle, which ensures clean, safe drinking water at all times. Learnings from this year’s trial will then be shared with other TTC brands, as the long-term goal is to ensure all travellers have a refillable water bottle they carry with them at all times, ensuring they change their habits and dependency on plastic water bottles.

Red Carnation Hotels, a long-standing supporter of the removal of single-use plastics across all of their 17 (soon to be 20) luxury hotels, has banned single use plastic water bottles in addition to more than 20 everyday plastic convenience items from all properties for some time now. As has Uniworld onboard its ships for several years now.

Further underscoring the importance of the need to eliminate single-use plastics from their daily lives and create a more sustainable travel industry, TTC teams around the world will be mobilizing all Earth Month long for community clean-ups, sustainability education seminars, and volunteer projects.

The TreadRight Foundation will also be helping travellers explore more sustainably and make their travel matter with a series of videos providing tips on eliminating plastics and conserving water when travelling, as well as the Do’s and Don’ts for travellers interacting with animals. The video series was released in the week leading up to Earth Day on Sunday, April 22. •

www.treadright.org

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Ghost Mountain ...where Zulu traditions, ghost stories & wonderful hospitality reside

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Words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann responsible traveller 51

T

he early morning mist swirled around the legendary Mountain, its silhouette reflected in the still water. Over the years flickering fires and strange lights have been seen, and weird noises had been heard.

From early times the bodies of Shangaan Chiefs had been buried there, and still were… ‘It is a great and strange mountain’ wrote Sir Ryder Haggard, ‘it is haunted also and named the Ghost Mountain, and on top of it is a grey peak rudely shaped like the head of an old woman’.

Whether this is fact or fiction, is besides the point. The fact is that at the foot of this mountain in northern KwaZulu-Natal is the enchanting Ghost Mountain Inn. A place where family, history and a love for Africa and its traditions are central to what they do. A place where guests get to experience Zulu culture and traditions first-hand, where the African bush comes to life and where the expanse of Lake Jozini is experienced in a variety of ways.

Giant wild fig tree in the lawn

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It was a quick visit, just a couple of nights.

We were welcomed like family, shown to our well-appointed suites and then given a walkabout the property. ‘Watch out for the hippos at night’, we were told, they come out of the dam to graze’. There were crocs in the dam too we were told. Ryan, the less ‘wild’ experienced of the three of us considered this with some trepidation. Any nervousness was soon set aside as the heady aromas of the Terres

d’Afrique spa products seduced our senses. My choice was the Tropical Dusk uplifting massage oil with ylang ylang, bourbon geranium, and tropical basil, applied by the expert hands of Buyi, soon the stresses of the past week were worked away.

Thoughts of wayward ghosts, rampant hippos and dreaded deadlines were soon a thing of the past. Even the possibility of capturing a stunning sunset couldn’t get me out of there in a hurry - the cool of the afternoon breeze through the indigenous trees and the relaxing sound of birdsong was a balm for the soul.

After a slightly subdued sunset, which perhaps chose not to rain on my euphoric ‘spa parade’, we headed to the outdoor dining area for a delicious traditional braai (barbecue) followed by traditional Zulu dancing. The young dance

troupe were from one of the local communities and Ghost Mountain is a great source of income for them. Plus, the pride they show in their Zulu culture is heart-warming.

Sunrise didn’t disappoint, nor did the buffet breakfast. Soon we were bundled into a game viewing vehicle for a drive to Lake Jozini and a cruise on Ghost Mountain’s own boat, the Shaluza. On route we passed field upon field of sugar cane, some lush and green others burnt to the ground ready for harvesting. Our guide Isaac explained that sugar farming is a vital industry in the area and an employer of many from the local community. We learnt that the men cutting the burnt cane were paid by productivity not by time spent. I felt sad for the guys still gruelling away, whilst other relaxed awaiting their transport. – I guess the speed at which one works is a choice.

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We watch Bell loaders picking up piles of can with the greatest of ease, and I marvel at the skill of the operators. Further on, alongside a field of green, Isaac cuts a stalk of mature cane for us with his panga (machete) and breaks it against his knee. He shows us how to peel it with our teeth, we chew the rough stalk inside and suck the sweetness from it. Then we spit out the remains… not exceptionally lady-like, but what the heck, when in Africa…

The wind comes up and our cruise is cancelled.

But nevertheless, we marvel at the size of the lake, ‘it’s much smaller now’, Isaac tells us, ‘the drought’ he says. We can see the’ high-water’ mark, now well vegetated as the rainfall has been below par for many years. The wind picks up and we watch the waves crash against the side of the boat, ‘I’m glad I’m on terra-firma’, I think.

Back at the Inn we relax under the giant fig tree with cappuccinos. Later that afternoon it’s back in the vehicle with Isaac for a visit to the local community. Ghost Mountain has a good working relationship with their local communities and have committed, through their Ndumu Charitable Foundation to assist local communities to thrive, with a focus on well-educated children, the development of small enterprises and an enhanced awareness of conservation ands sustainable practices. Our visit to the Myeni family, a community located in the Lebombo Mountains gives us great insight into how this operates.

On route to Lake Jozini

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The drive there takes us through these mountains with their magnificent views and enthralling scenery. We drive past homesteads and schools, along dusty roads and past goats and cattle. Soon we’re at the homestead of the Myeni family. Mr Myeni invites us in, we walk past traditional homes, the kids clamour around hoping for sweets and treats – we have been instructed not to give hand-outs as this develops a culture of begging, instead we are to give any gifts to our guide who will see that they are shared at the appropriate moment.

But kids been kids, and some foreign visitors seemingly knowing better this doesn’t happen.

I ponder the thoughtlessness and lack of understanding that some foreign visitors bring when they visit Africa… preconceived ideas of poor, struggling children, of desperate need and their ability to fill it. An altruistic need to do something of importance’… great in principle, but far better when done through the right channels, like the Ndumu Charitable Trust in this case, or any number of NGO’s that work with communities in Africa.

Another option for guests is to check out the Pack for a Purpose initiative, of which Ghost Mountain is a member. Guests can check what supplies are needed for the various projects and by packing less make the space for a few kilos of items that will make a huge impact on the lives of local kids and their families.

Isaac giving us a lesson in sugar cane eating

Mr Myeni welcoming us to his homestead

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Sunset overlooking Lake Jozini

Our visit to the Myeni family is one of the small enterprises that Ghost Mountain supports. Guests pay for the privilege of visiting their homestead, just as one would pay to visit a site of special interest elsewhere. This isn’t exploitation as the family are reimbursed for their efforts, just as one would be for any business venture. Commerce in Africa, working at its best.

Nguni cattle are silhouetted against the sundrenched hillsides, hens sit on eggs and goats nibble on whatever they can find. There is a peacefulness in these hills, everyone goes 58 responsible traveller

about their business as they need. There is just much to love about Africa!

We drive further through the community and up through the hills. It’s getting chilly and the sun is heading towards the horizon. Isaac stops the vehicle and we follow him up an aloe clad ridge. The view from the top is astounding!

The sun is setting, and it’s casting a golden flow over Lake Jozini… the table comes out, along with a cooler box with the makings of a sundowner… what better way to end the day than with a G&T and a spectacular view.

‘Isaac stops the vehicle and we follw him up an aloe-clad ridge. The view from the top is astounding! The sun is setting and it’s casting a golden glow over Lake Jozini...’

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The walkway between the dam and the hotel

So how Ghost Mountain Gives Back?

EDUCATION: Ghost Mountain’s community focus is primarily on education and assisting learners at an early stage in their development in order to have a lifelong impact. They work with and aim to raise awareness and sponsorship for the local schoolchildren in the Mkuze and Ubombo areas.

Guests are welcome to visit schools if they are interested to meet learners and teachers in order to attain further insight into how they can assist.

Most rural schools are severely under resourced and most families in the area living on poverty levels the simplest donations of school supplies, uniforms, books and magazines and even health and hygiene items can make the world of difference to these learners and their teachers.

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Mtwazi Combined School - Links between the Ghost Mountain Inn, the Rutherfoord family and Mtwazi Combined School go back to the early late 50’s when Roy Rutherfoord helped build the original Mtwazi School, a couple of years before building the Ghost Mountain Inn in 1962.

The school has grown tremendously and today educates over 1200 learners squeezed into a school that was originally built for a lot fewer people. Despite the addition of a new classroom wing a few years ago there is still a need for additional classrooms and more importantly operating equipment such as desks and chairs as well as stationary and uniforms.

Mtwazi Computer Centre – A current project is the building of a computer room. Technology can open a world of opportunity for the

learners at Mtwazi Combined School. It offers the opportunity of bringing the world and its opportunities closer to Mkuze. Currently most learners at Mtwazi complete their schooling without having ever touched a computer. This limits their exposure that technology allows and gives them an immediate handicap when wanting to find their first job or study at a tertiary institution. The budget for this project is R1.5 m and a sizeable portion of this amount needs to be raised before construction can commence. Any contribution would be most welcome and appreciated: from cash, building materials, furniture and computers to books and learning aids.

“Isiphephelo Sejuba’ Place of Safety – ‘We are blessed to have some shining stars in our area

who have committed their lives to improving the lives of others’. Pastor Beatrice Nhleko is one such lady who has started a place of safety for woman and children at Ubombo. The inn is happy to assist with the donation of clothes, linen, bedding and towels that can no longer be used in the hotel.

Hygiene Packs - For many young girls in the area, sanitary pads are a luxury that they can’t afford. As a result, they miss school when they are menstruating. Working with Subzpads Ghost Mountain have managed to raise funds to purchase hygienic and reusable liners.

Additionally, local businesses are encouraged to join them in providing monthly care packs for the young girls. Each pack contains soap, deodorant, panties, sanitary pads and body lotion. responsible traveller 61

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LOCAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Local Procurement - Where possible local suppliers are sourced to supply the Ghost Mountain Inn. This makes economic sense and gives a unique identity and offering. Local crafters produce a variety of operating supplies such as placemats, trays and some uniforms. The Ghost Mountain Gift Shop offers an opportunity to give exposure to local craft and crafters with products that include leather bags, beaded, embroidered and wooden craft.

Small Business Support - Collectively the management of Ghost Mountain Inn has a wealth of experience and knowledge of the tourism industry. They are always willing to share this knowledge in assisting local tourism entrepreneurs from new Bed &Breakfasts to Transfer Services.

CONSERVATION Trees For Schools - Some Tour Operators that Ghost Mountain work with have donated fruit trees when their guests stay at the Inn and any guests are welcome to do the same. It is encouraging to see learners at the school taking care of these trees and enjoying their fruits as the trees mature.

Water For Schools - Water is a scarce commodity in many of their surrounding areas with woman and kids still walking many kilometres a day to collect heavy buckets of water. As resources become available, Ghost Mountain is able install solar powered boreholes to ease this burden in some of the more remote parts. Recently they facilitated the installation of a new solar powered borehole for Zimbidleni School.

With great thanks to the Universities Business Challenge in the UK who assisted greatly with the fundraising for this project as well as local business who provided time and materials.

Environmental Education - Even though the local communities inthe area are surrounded by wildlife and conservation areas it is astounding that many local kids have never had the opportunity to visit these areas.

Ghost Mountain guides are always eager to take these kids into the reserve to see wild animals for the first time and to be introduced to the importance of the conservation of our rich heritage.

Resource Management - The hotel manages and measure their energy needs, reduces demand for energy and conserves natural resources. They use products, responsible suppliers and materials, which support and encourage sustainable practices and do not threaten our environment. ‘Our greatest pride are our indigenous Gardens were local, water wise plants are introduced.’

Recycling - A hotel generates a lot of recyclable materials and instead of filling up landfill sights a recycling program has been instituted. While Ghost Mountain have collectors for cardboard and plastic there are sadly several obstacles to running this type of program in rural areas. Despite it being so crucial to the conservation of our environment there is a lack of municipal infrastructure to assist in recycling programs. All material must be carted 150km to Richards Bay or 300km to Durban depending on the type of material.

Expertise and funding are currently being sought for the building of a collection centre in Mkuze that can collect enough material to make the project more viable. •

www.ghostmountaininn.co.za responsible traveller 63

What’s news...

Green Stand Awards at Africa’s Tourism Indaba For the first time Africa’s Travel Indaba will introduce the Green Stand Awards to recognise exhibitors who go that extra “green” mile to build and design stands that are environmentally and socially sustainable.

Taking place between 2-4 May, 2019, at the Inkosi Albert Luthuli Convention Centre (Durban ICC), Africa’s Travel Indaba recognises the importance of high value-low impact tourism and preserving the environment through innovative solutions.

This ties into South African Tourism’s promotion of responsible tourism.

South African Tourism has pioneered event greening since 2011, through the South Africa National Convention Bureau business events show, Meetings Africa. The awards have been implemented with great success at Meetings Africa in recent years and bringing it to Africa’s Travel Indaba will start the conversation with exhibitors to consider responsible tourism as a part of their offerings.

The stands are judged against the Event Greening Forum (EGF) award criteria including design, materials, operations, transport, communication, beyond green and innovation.

They would also need to submit a written

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motivation explaining why their stand is green.

The assessment includes demonstrating knowledge about the greening principles and practical implementation thereof. The panel of judges will include professionals with event greening experience and independent moderators.

Last year, Africa’s Travel Indaba implemented measures to make the event more environmentally friendly. These included paperless contracts with exhibitors and the event app, that helps to cut down on paper before, and at the event.

The event organisers are also looking to appoint as many local suppliers as possible, cutting down on the event’s carbon footprint, and promoting responsible tourism by giving resident SMMEs the chance to participate in the continent’s largest travel trade show. South African Tourism’s event greening efforts have not gone unnoticed.

Since 2012, Meetings Africa has won every annual Green Show Award from the Exhibition and Event Association of Southern Africa (EXSA).

Amanda Kotze-Nhlapo, Chief Convention Bureau Officer of South Africa National Convention Bureau, explains, “South African Tourism

What’s news... recognises the importance of hosting events in a responsible manner and which address the triple bottom line of people, planet and prosperity.”

The Event Greening Forum Chairperson, Greg McManus, says, “We have been honoured to fulfil an advisory role for Meetings Africa over the years.

The South African Tourism team have always been very receptive to our recommendations and to adopting new initiatives, which they have done with great results. We are looking forward to continuing this partnership and success with Africa’s Travel Indaba.”

To ensure this year’s Indaba is greener than ever, the Event Greening Forum conducted a baseline assessment at last year’s event to gain a better understanding of the environmental impact of the event. This information is now being used to develop an event greening strategy that can be implemented at future events. The data gathered is proving to be critical to mapping out an effective event greening strategy.

Sustainability Village has socio-economic and environmental impact. For the second year running, Indaba will feature the An innovative Sustainability Village. The Sustainability Village was created to showcase talented local artisans and SMEs, and their handcrafted goods. All of the items on display are made in South Africa

and inspired by local culture and traditions, and some also have a strong sustainability ethos, such as using recycled materials. Instead of the traditional corporate gifts, South African Tourism will give gift cards to delegates, allowing them to select their own gifts from this space.

The Sustainability Village’s responsible gifting meets all three criteria that includes ecoprocurement, social upliftment, and avoiding the unnecessary waste of unwanted gifts, all of which ensure event waste is reduced.

Justin Hawes, the Managing Director of Scan Display, Indaba 2019’s infrastructure providers, says, “For the Sustainability Village, we created modular structures out of raw wood and African fabrics. Two thirds of them were re-used from the Meetings Africa show earlier this year, and they will be re-used over the coming years.”

Soon enough, event greening will become a mainstay in the African business events industry, and we as South African Tourism are proud to be its pioneers. We look forward to welcoming you to what will be the greenest Africa’s Travel Indaba yet. •

www.indaba-southafrica.co.za

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Fabulous Fordoun S

et within fertile farmlands, this old dairy farm, complete with milking sheds, a grain silo and a plethora of old stone buildings, was transformed to become the renowned Fordoun Hotel & Spa‌ an oasis of pampering, for mind, body and soul. Its location near Nottingham Road in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, ensures spectacular views across rolling hills and pastured valleys towards the distant Drakensberg Mountains.

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Dating back to the 1800s the farm has been in the Bates family since the late 1940s, when Sir George and Lady Usher moved from England to their new home, where they established a thriving dairy farm. The picturesque hotel and spa were constructed from the farm’s original dairy and farmyard buildings, some of which date back to the late 1880s and were the homestead of settler William Taylor. The stonework and yellowwood beams have been carefully preserved and incorporated into the modern buildings, and the spectacular floatation tank was once a grain silo.

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Each of the 22 luxurious and individually appointed double suites, with under-floor heating and sumptuous bathrooms, are decorated along diverse themes that highlight Fordoun’s historical past. We meet Sylvia Pillay who gives us a guided tour through some of the suites…

First up is the dairy suite, with its pictures of award-winning dairy cows, little calves and original stone wall. Sylvia proudly points out a picture of her standing with Jon Bates at the Royal Agricultural Show in 2014 and tells us

‘The picturesque hotel and spa were constructed from the farm’s original dairy and farmyard buildings, some of which date back to the 1880s and were the homestead of settler William Taylor...’ responsible traveller 69

that she has been on the farm since 1954 and worked in the dairy for 41 years.

Next is the Indian suite, with seems somewhat out of place – that is until you hear the full story.

This suite plays homage to the Indian community of Nottingham Road and Sylvia’s long history with Fordoun. The walls are adorned with old photographs that tell of her extended family, with siblings, grandparents and the like. ‘It’s just what I would expect from Fordoun’, I think to myself, this place where everyone is important, and each has a story to tell.

We walk past more stone walls, beneath the boughs of large deciduous trees and along a cobbled pathway snaking its way through a beautiful garden. These are the newer suites, where we will spend the night, and where the Sir George and Lady Usher suite is. Rich burgundy, classic furniture and floral cushions are accompanied by black and white photographs of Sir George trout fishing and Lady Usher with a prized dairy cow.

When one visits a so-called ‘destination spa’, one would think all the activities on offer revolve around the spa. In some ways one would be right – Fordoun offers such a diverse range of spa treatments, activities and spoils that one could spend every waking hour there. But on the other hand, one need not spend time there at all. There are walks and trails perfect for mountain biking, trail running or just ambling. There are dams that invite trout fisherman to cast a fly on one of the still water dams – preferably during the cooler winter months as they’re even more elusive during warmer weather.

And if you choose to leave the property and head into the Midlands there’s even more to choose from – from the adrenalin rush of the Karkloof Canopy Tour, a round of golf at either the Bosch Hoek or Gowrie golf courses to a scenic and more sedate hot air balloon ride. Or ‘shop till you drop’ retail therapy on the Midlands Meander Route, visit art galleries and view rock art, sip on locally made gin, taste a variety of craft beer, taste locally produced KZN estate wine and nibble on artisanal cheese.

But you don’t have to venture far to get your taste of local produce, the Sky Bistro and adjoining bar take full advantage of the local fresh produce and artisanal products the KZN Midlands has to offer.

For me being at Fordoun was all about the spa.

Relaxing on loungers, swimming in the heated indoor pool, basking in the saline floatation 70 responsible traveller

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Entrance to the Spa and dried Wild Dagga flowers and seeds (below)

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The lovely Andile (above) and the Ndlovu range of spa products

tank, and enjoying a full body massage with traditional Doctor Ndlovu’s nourishing African Potato (Hypoxix hemerocallidea) and Wild Dagga (Leonotis Leonurus) – said to relieve muscle tension and increase blood circulation. Whether my sense of well-being was from the expert hands of the lovely Andile or the fabulously fragrant oils, I would not know. But a repeat of both would be highly recommended.

Doctor Elliot Ndlovu, a traditional healer, herbalist and ethnobotanist, has a longstanding relationship with Fordoun’s founder, Jon Bates. Together they have developed a range of products made from indigenous plants traditionally used in the Zulu culture for healing.

The plants are grown on Dr Ndlovu’s nearby farm and are then used to produce Fordoun Spa’s signature range.

During our visit we had the opportunity to chat to Jon Bates, owner and self-professed Patriarch of Fordoun Hotel & Spa. Between bites of tender and tasty Waygu beef burger in the Skye Bistro, he told about the origins of the farm and the ethos that drives their commitment to both conservation and the local community.

‘We decided that if we are to become a place of meaning and contribute to society, we have to have an environmental and a social policy here,’ says Jon. He proceeds to keep us enthralled for the next hour or so with stories of community villages and educational initiatives, crane conservation, chickens that live in caravans and purple beans… but the details of those are for another day. •

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Getting around

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words & pics - Stuart Parker / Tread Light 4X4

a new kind of 4x4 hire... for the responsible & budget conscious traveller to South Africa responsible traveller 75

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f you were to ask a collection of past travelers what their preferred route was and where they travelled to on their vacation to South Africa, you are bound to get a list as varied as the number of people you ask. This is due to the diversity in attractions and possible routes available, all depending on what interests you, your travel budget and how you prefer to travel.

From the big five national parks, including the Kruger National Park and the Pilanesberg Game Reserve to name just two, to the picturesque landscapes and beautiful coastal regions of the Garden Route, Wild Coast and KwaZulu-Natal as you travel up the countries east coast from Cape Town, South Africa is a haven for the outdoor nature lover. It is a destination renowned for its warm hospitality and diverse culture, offering travelers the chance to experience world class African cities such as Cape Town, Johannesburg and Durban – all connected by small farming villages and rural communities which you are guaranteed to fall in love with.

As an established travel destination, South Africa is a hub for the budget conscious and adventure traveler looking to explore the country on a shoe-string budget, one big adventure at a time.

Camping and self-catered accommodation is an important part of the travel culture for local South African’s, which means the country is covered from top to bottom with an endless number of secluded camp sites and beautifully selfcontained homes waiting to be discovered.

But what about car rental? With rugged dirt tracks and tricky mountain passes throughout the country, most visitors are keen on hiring a 4x4 which can tackle the South African road conditions with ease. For those keen on getting in touch with nature while camping out under the African sky, hiring all the camping gear is also a necessity. But where do you find a highly capable 4x4, equipped with all the camping essentials that is ideal for the adventure seeker not keen on breaking the budget on a large camper or large decked-out 4x4?

Cue Tread Lite 4x4 hire!

Tread Lite 4x4 hire is a new 4x4 rental company (established late 2018) with its foundation firmly 76 responsible traveller

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rooted in minimalistic, low impact travel for the conscious traveler. Their fleet of vehicles consists almost exclusively of the small, lightweight Suzuki Jimny. With a cult-like following the world over, the Suzuki Jimny is renowned for its off-road capabilities and adventurous spirit.

Owing to their compact nature and small engine, they are lighter on fuel and produce less CO2 emissions than the larger, heavier 4x4’s.

With a short wheel base, they are a breeze to maneuver through the cities but will happily clamber over just about any mountain pass or 4x4 trail that you throw in front of it.

With a minimalistic approach to travel, the Tread Lite 4x4 hire vehicles are equipped with everything you need and nothing you don’t.

When planning a camping adventure, we often get caught up in the fancy gadgets available and end up with more equipment than we will ever need. With less packing space inside and on top of the vehicle the Tread Lite team have taken a close look at the gear included in their vehicles to ensure they are packed with only the essentials and nothing more. A minimalistic mindset to travel means a freer journey, allowing you to truly appreciate and enjoy the journey wherever you choose to travel.

Beyond just car rental, Tread Lite 4x4 hire believes in the power of travel to affect positive change on the traveller. By exposing you to foreign cultures, travel broadens your horizons, giving you a greater respect and understanding of humanity.

Immersing yourself in the natural heritage of a distant country allows you to connect with your inner being, rejuvenating your soul and giving you a greater appreciation for the world we live in. Our goal is to give you the perfect vehicle with which to achieve this goal, leaving South Africa with a collection of memories you’ll cherish forever.

‘With a minimalistic approach to travel, the Tread Lite 4x4 hire vehicles are equiped with everything you need and nothing you dont...’

Is Tread Lite 4x4 hire and their collection of Suzuki Jimny’s right for you? If you like bulky vehicles and enjoy travelling with everything including the kitchen sink, then perhaps not. But if you a responsible, conscious traveller who prefers a more minimalistic and lighter approach to your travel adventures, you will enjoy every moment in one of their equipped Suzuki Jimny’s rentals. •

www.treadlite4x4hire.co.za

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Conservation stories ...at Samara Game Reserve words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

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here’s something about spending time in the African bush… the sights, the sounds and the smells that get under your skin and into your heart ensuring that you want – no, need – to return, time and time again. And it’s no different with Samara Game Reserve either. Once will never be enough, especially once you’ve experienced the wide expanses of the Karoo skies, the fabulous smiles of the lodge staff, heard all the wonderful conservation stories and marvelled at the wonderful wildlife. responsible traveller 81

Drive down a dusty dirt road within the semi-arid landscape of the Great Karoo, to a spot where you feel ensconced within the arms of dolerite capped mountains of the Sneeuberg Range and there, you’ll find Samara Game Reserve - a conservation success story on many levels.

From the purchase and rehabilitation of eleven degraded livestock farms and the regeneration and re-establishment of vegetation, to the restoration of the herbivore community (including white rhino and buffalo) and finally the re-introduction of cheetah (2003), elephant (2017) and then lion (early 2019) – completing the Big Five round-up.

As important the Big Five are too many safari visitors to Africa, seeing them does not necessarily a safari make. It’s often the weird and wonderful critters that are most memorable, the wildlife stories told, and the knowledge gained over a G&T or around the crackling of a fire. Our time at Samara was no different, from early morning game drives and sunset G&T’s to a picnic lunch on the plateau and any time in between, Julius our amazing guide kept us enthralled.

An early morning game drive had Julius out with his telemetry. He tells us that guests had seen Chilli the cheetah and her cubs somewhere in the area on their drive the previous evening, and if we’re lucky maybe we will too. Adjusting the settings as we drive the peep, peep, peep gradually gets louder. We hop off the vehicle quietly, receive safety instructions and set off up the hill through the karoo bush.

With his hand up, Julius warns that Chilli is up ahead. We round a clump of bushes quietly and are soon in awe of the little family lazing beneath a tree about 10 metres away – any closer and we’re into her comfort zone. We sit enthralled as she preens the little bundles of fur, one of them

‘With his hand up, Julius warns that Chilli is up ahead. We round a clump of bushes quietly and are soon in awe of the little family lazing beneath a tree about 10 metres away - any closer and we’re into her comfort zone...’

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gives us a very fierce look before rolling over and falling asleep. Julius tells us that the colouring and excessive fluffiness of the cubs resembles that of a honey badger, renowned for being a rather unsavoury catch for other predators. ‘How amazing is nature’, I think to myself.

Later we take a tortuous drive up the side of the mountain – aloes cling to the rocky slopes and Spekboom (Portulacaria afra) provide splashes of green.

We learn that the Spekboom is one of nature’s miracle plants and that a one-hectare thicket of Spekboom is ten times more effective at removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere than a hectare of Amazon rainforest! And here we were clinging to our seats as we snake our way through natures miracle. Little did we know another awaited us as we reached the top.

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‘Welcome to Samara’s Mara’ Julius announced as we crested the mountain. The extensive grasslands were totally unexpected, the quantity of game too – from Cape mountain zebra and black wildebeest, to gemsbok and red hartebeest, all grazing happily on the highly palatable ‘red grass’.

A herd of eland choose to move off into the distance, not trusting our presence. ‘Look out for the secretary bird’ we are told, ‘they love the open grasslands of the ‘Mara’. We didn’t see one but did learn that they’re voracious predators with incredible snake-killing skills. And it’s not just the snakes they predate on, insects, small mammals and birds need to keep a watchful eye out for them too.

After all this game viewing the ‘picnic on the plateau’ was most welcome. Water deftly poured

‘Welcome to Samara’s Mara’ Julius announced as we crested the mountain. The extensive grasslands were totally unexpected, the quantity of game too..’

over dusty hands and dried with a fluffy towel, chilled bubbly and a crisp white table cloth blowing in the breeze beneath a well-endowed umbrella.

A table laden with local cuisine, from frikkadels (meat balls) and mini lamb pies, to lentil salad and the yummiest chocolate cake – all washed down with a G&T or chilled Sauvignon Blanc.

Mountain tops and marvellous views… could it get any better than this?

On our drive back down the mountain we learnt how to tell the difference between a Cape mountain zebra and the more common Burchell’s zebra. Julius explained that one of the main differences was that the mountain zebra does not have stripes running under their belly whereas the Burchell’s zebra’s stripes responsible traveller 87

extend onto its underparts. Pity we didn’t get close enough to check, I think – will just have to return for a closer look!!

The highlight of an evening game drive just must be the epic Karoo sunsets, when golden light floods over the low-lying scrub of the Nama Karoo vegetation.

When giraffes seem to glow against the backdrop of green, completely unaware that we had stopped for sundowners nearby. Julius pours a G&T with the skill one would expect – just another notch in his ‘five-star safari lodge’ belt.

One last game drive the next morning has us seeing a flock of critically endangered blue crane, South Africa’s national bird, a bird that is shown much respect in the African culture. We learn about Samara’s decision to de-horn their rhino and that the Shepherd’s tree (Boscia albitrunca) is often called the Tree of Life for the sustenance that it offers to both humans and animals. Julius goes on to tell us that the root can be pounded and made into a porridge – and a beer and to treat haemorrhoids! That the leaves are nutritious to browsers and that an infusion of the leaves is used to treat eye infections in cattle.

So much to see, so much to learn. So much to absorb and to retain. Just not enough time… never enough time, that’s the way it is on safari at Samara. And that’s why return visits need to be planned, the sooner the better.

As we drive way from the vast landscapes of the Karoo, I think to myself, ‘I didn’t even have time to lie beneath the stars and watch them dance beside the milky way’. Oh well, there’s always next time!!

www.samara.co.za

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What’s news...

Wiesenhof ’s National Beverage Specialist Awarded Top Technical Barista in SCASA Competition Wiesenhof’s National Beverage Specialist Khulekani “Khule” Mpala won top technical honours at the Speciality Coffee Association of Southern Africa’s National Coffee Competition last weekend, being awarded the Best Technical and Best Signature Drink prize.

The championships, which took place from 21 to 24 February outside Durban saw the country’s top coffee companies and individual baristas gather to battle it out for leading honours. Khule impressed the judges with his outstanding ability and his signature drink that was motivated by his theme of coffee being about people and focused on celebrating Ethiopia as the home of coffee, looking at where it all began when coffee was discovered.

Originally from Zimbabwe, this 44-year-old father of three came to South Africa in 2006 in search of a new life away from the political strife in his mother country. He came with a marketing qualification, his wife Norma, their three children and very little else and went through some very tough and challenging times before joining Wiesenhof in 2018.

“I’m over the moon at being recognised again for my technical ability, and for the drink that I have created,” says Khule. “I’m also proud to have achieved so much as a barista since coming to South Africa,” he adds.

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Khule’s first job in South Africa was as a security guard. Despite working hard at being the best he could be, he was retrenched after a year but ended up working in various restaurants, working his way up from a scullery hand to becoming a waiter and eventually, making coffee. “I ended up in 2008 in one of the restaurants at a local Woolworths, which is where my passion for coffee began,” he explains. “I was poached by another coffee company and ended up as a manager of one of their shops, training new baristas and managers joining the group,” he says.

“With Wiesenhof I have expanded my horizons even further,” says Khule, who dreams of becoming one of the best baristas in the world.

“I want to see our coffee recognised as the best coffee in South Africa and to pass on everything I have learned, empowering other baristas with the knowledge and skill they need to enjoy long and fruitful careers and the recognition they deserve.”

Here is the recipe for Khule’s winning, signature coffee: Four shots of espresso (chilled); Ground Ethiopian coffee; Ethiopian brew (chilled); Water; Nectarine juice; Lemon juice. •

www.wiesenhofcoffees.co.za

What’s news...

Leading Ecotourism Operators Join Forces To Launch The Lionscape Coalition In partnership with the Lion Recovery Fund, Africa’s leading ecotourism operators, &Beyond, Conservation Travel Foundation by Ultimate Safaris, Singita and Wilderness Safaris, have joined forces to launch the Lionscape Coalition – an innovative initiative that has seen four commercial competitors come together to help secure a future for Africa’s lions and their landscapes.

Africa’s lion population has halved in the past 25 years, and the species is now officially classified by the IUCN as ‘Vulnerable’, with the West African subspecies ‘Critically Endangered’. Habitat loss and fragmentation, illegal wildlife trade, bushmeat poaching and human-lion conflict continue to threaten lions across Africa. Yet lions are a resilient species and a turnaround is still possible if these key issues are addressed.

As apex predators, lions are regarded by scientists as an “umbrella” species; if a lion population is thriving, it means the entire ecosystem around it is functioning effectively. “Conserving wild lions is therefore synonymous with conserving African wilderness”, commented Paul Thomson from the Wildlife Conservation Network, which manages the Lion Recovery Fund (LRF). “With a unique ability to inspire and inform travellers about the threats faced by these magnificent cats – and the habitat they need to survive – Africa’s ecotourism industry can play a pivotal role in bringing them back, which is why we are thrilled to launch this exciting new partnership.”

“The initiative taken by the Lionscape Coalition’s founding partners to look past their business

imperatives and collaborate sends a powerful message that conservation is part of good business. Collectively, &Beyond, Conservation Travel Foundation by Ultimate Safaris, Singita and Wilderness Safaris boast more than 100 years of positive conservation and community impact and work across ten African countries”, he added.

Underpinning their commitment, each member of the Lionscape Coalition has made an annual philanthropic investment into the LRF. Half of the amount contributed is directed to projects in countries where the member operates, while the other half is utilised at the discretion of the LRF’s Granting Committee. In this way, these ecotourism companies are making a direct contribution to lion conservation beyond the boundaries of their direct areas of operation.

The LRF’s stated vision is to see wild lion numbers doubled by 2050. By engaging guests before, during and after their safaris about the threats and opportunities for lion conservation, Lionscape Coalition members will aim to generate additional funding in support of the LRF’s goals, with 100% of all donations received channelled directly to projects on the ground.

The strategy of this dedicated initiative focuses on three critical aspects: expanding conservation coverage by increasing the extent and effectiveness of the management of ‘lionscapes’ across Africa; the building of public, political, and philanthropic will, creating a collective intent across the spheres of governments, non-profit organisations, philanthropists and the general public; and the scaling of funding, elevating the amount of funding available for the conservation of lions and their landscapes.

Africa’s ecotourism is intrinsically linked to the health of its iconic wildlife populations and their captivating landscapes. As an undisputed favourite for safari guests, losing lions will not only have dire ecological consequences, but will jeopardise the tourism industry itself, the jobs it creates and the many national economies to which it makes such an important contribution.

The future of Africa’s irreplaceable wilderness and wildlife and its tourism industry are inseparable from the future of the African lion. The Lionscape Coalition shares the LRF’s bold vision to double the number of wild lions in Africa.

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Past, present, future explore Nelson Mandela Bay’s city centre on foot...

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rom a vast space where wealthy feather barons auctioned off their wares, to a monument commemorating the arrival of the 1820 settlers and a walk cross in memory of brave seafarers and a walk that brings you closer to South Africa’s journey to democracy, a walking tour of Port Elizabeth’s city centre has it all. Port Elizabeth is named after the beloved Elizabeth, wife of Sir Rufane Donkin, who arrived with the 1820 settlers and ‘founded’ the port, and not Elizabeth, the royal monarch as many might think.

With walking shoes on, camera batteries charged and levels of enthusiasm high, we set off down John Kani Street with its life-size taxi sculpture and spectacular Opera House. We pass the old Post Office with its gothic Victorian architecture and the magnificent City Hall and Public Library in Market Square and learn about the colonial history dating back to when the 1820 settlers arrived. Port Elizabeth is the second oldest city in South Africa, second to Cape Town, and was an important port for on the Dutch East India Trade Route.

The Feather Market Centre, now a conference and events centre, is a glamorous space with double volume foyer, sweeping staircase and exquisite chandeliers. It owes its origins to ostrich feather boom in the 1800s, a time that saw South African ostrich farmers become wealthy, almost overnight. The building, and numerous others from this era, was proclaimed a national monument in 1980 and pictures of its history line the corridors.

Behind the City Hall is a large Coptic cross, we pause awhile, reading the inscription… ‘in memory of those fearless seafarers who searched for Prester John, 1145 – 1645’. The legend of Prester John, a mythical priest-king with great wealth and a magical kingdom, led many a seafarer to set sail in search of him, resulting in these explorers discovering much knowledge as foreign lands were discovered.

Gazing over Market Square, and in the direction of the Campanile memorial, is a marble statue of a somewhat sombre looking Queen Victoria – perhaps she had foresight into the demise of 94 responsible traveller

colonialism in this distant land they had called their own. We stroll down steps and under the M4, past large street art celebrating democracy and on to the Campanile Bell Tower. This iconic landmark was commissioned to mark the centenary of the landing of the British settlers in 1820, in what was then referred to as Algoa Bay. We climbed its 204 steps to the Observatory Room, pausing a while to admire the art work on its various landings – and a good excuse to catch our breath! We hear the melodious and loud ring of the towers 23 carillon bells, the largest in

‘We start the the second part of our walk through history - along Route 67, so named as it consists of 67 works of art symbolising Nelson Mandela’s 67 years of work towards a democratic South Africa...’ responsible traveller 95

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the country. It is here that we start the second part of our walk through history – along Route 67, so named as it consists of 67 works of art symbolising Nelson Mandela’s 67 years of work towards a democratic South Africa.

beginnings’. The stairs meander up through a glorious indigenous garden, along a path marked with X’s and finally along the Voting Queue – a sculpture representing the voting line that was formed during the 1994 elections.

Along a wall is a frieze celebrating the local heritage of the Nelson Mandela Bay and Eastern Cape region. The visual images created by Mkhonto Gwazele are set into cast concrete curved in a beam with a flow-poem written by Lelethu PoeticSoul Mahambehlala beneath them.

Up steps we follow words created by a collective of crafters, words like uBuntu, patriotism, peace and Siliziwe, meaning we’re blessed; words that represent the new South Africa and its prosperity as a democratic nation. Along the route are ‘pages’ of Nelson Mandela’s quotes, stuck to balustrades, lamp posts and walls – inspiration from the great statesman himself.

On reaching the top we were greeted by a giantsized sculpture of Nelson Mandela, a 470 square metre mosaic and a 65m high flagpole – the second highest in Africa. In addition to this there are the spectacular views across the bay, the pyramid shaped memorial to Sir Donkin’s wife Elizabeth – whom he dearly loved and referred to as the ‘most perfect human being’, and the old Lighthouse that was built in 1861. The lighthouse operated for over 100 years and was decommissioned in 1973 when a more effective lighthouse was constructed further up the coast.

We pop into the Cathedral Church of St Mary the Virgin, dating back to the 1900s, and complete with its Bishop’s throne, choir stalls, baptismal font and magnificent stained-glass windows.

I smile as a child sits on the carpet, opens his lunchbox and enjoys a snack, while his Mom, a cleaner, goes about her work. Such is the inclusiveness of the Church.

We start up the Mosaic Stairs… created by a number of local artists, the stairway represents ‘an experimental journey that starts in darkness and turbulence and progresses to a new dawn and an explosion of colour, hope and new

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Our three-hour timeslot for this walk was running out and we hadn’t even scratched the surface of this wonderfully historic city, and many of the 67 works of art would have to wait for next.

All that remained was enough time to catch a quick ride to Mastersons Coffee, an institution in this city and in existence since 1924. With the wonderful aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans and a delicious cappuccino beckoning, it was time to say farewell… suffice it to say, this city with its colonial buildings, Victorian architecture, African aesthetic and vibey feel will certainly be welcoming me back sometime soon. •

www.nmbt.co.za

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What’s news...

West Coast Way reveals exciting new Tourism Developments West Coast Way will once again, and for the fourth year running, be representing the Cape West Coast (WeskusBeskus) and its top tourist attractions, (including some exciting new offerings) and their achievements at this years World Travel Market Africa (WTMA), taking place at the CTICC from 10 – 12 April 2019.

The 2019 African Responsible Tourism Awards winners will be announced during WTM Africa and West Coast based !Khwa Ttu has been listed as a finalist - with optimism being high that they will bring home this prestigious title. The African Responsible Tourism Awards celebrate the commitment and efforts of individuals, organisations and destinations that use tourism to make Africa better. !Khwa ttu - meaning ‘water hole’ in the San language - situated an hour from Cape Town’s CBD on the West Coast’s R27 main route, is home to the world-unique and pioneering !Khwa ttu San Heritage Centre which houses interactive displays and presentations that depict the lives of the San, and allows visitors to immerse themselves in the ways of the San. !Khwa ttu also offers a restaurant, accommodation, herbal tea garden, San guided nature experiences by foot, game drives and the newly launched e-bike cycling tour experience.

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A new West Coast Way 2-Day Tour will be launched offering the public through Kettie Travel - the official travel desk and travel services company of West Coast Way, created to offer information and advise on guided tours and road trips on the Cape West Coast. The 2-Day Tour will offer visitors a phenomenal snapshot of what the Cape West Coast has to offer – with a diverse range of activities and venues included in the itinerary, from nature walks to beer tasting and many other things in between. Included in the 2-day tour is a visit to !Khwa ttu, the West Coast National Park, Thali Thali Game Reserve, the Langebaan lagoon, a Darling Brew experience and Evita se Perron.

Also being launched at WTM alongside the 2-Day West Coast Explorer Tour is a new 16 Mile Beach Challenge which sees participants set off for a gruelling but beautiful one-day guided hike (certified guide) along South Africa’s longest uninterrupted beach. This endurance hike, (rated at level 4 for fitness) along picturesque and unspoilt coastline, sets off from Tsaars Bank in the famous West Coast National Park and ends at the Main Beach in Yzerfontein and is the only guided beach walk of its kind offered within the West Coast biodiversity corridor. Participants who complete the hike

What’s news... will receive a certificate to commemorate their achievement.

Abalobi, a non-profit organisation operating on the Cape West Coast which helps impoverished fishers - #FishWithAStory - will be introduced to WTM attendees. Abalobi sources seafood directly from over 200 registered small-scale fishers and connects these fishers to over 100 restaurants that then purchase this seafood.

This empowers these small-scale fishers and allows them to make a sustainable living by being paid a fair price for what they catch. To date over R2 million has been paid directly from participating restaurants to the fishers.

Consumers benefit because they get to sample top quality seafood that is traceable – having travelled along a transparent and legal supply chain. Abalobi works through technology – the fishers log their catch and vessel details on the online Abalobi marketplace where the restaurants can then purchase this fish directly from the source. Consumers who then order this seafood off the menu are able to scan the QR code provided by the restaurant which shows who caught the seafood/fish, where, when and how it was caught – making it a completely traceable, transparent and connected dining experience.

ALL of these exciting new tourism developments and offerings will be showcased at a special

Launch Event taking place at West Coast Way’s stand (Stand L07 in the Main Hall) on Friday 12 April at from 11am – 12pm.

“West Coast Way works tirelessly to promote the Weskus Beskus (Cape West Coast)- a kaleidoscope of culture, exciting activities, warm people and beautiful scenery, where at every corner there is a new and intriguing tourism offering,” says Carmen Lerm, founder and CEO of West Coast Way. “We are very excited to be bringing the best of the West Coast to the CTICC, and to be offering WTM attendees such a jam-packed launch event on the Friday at our stand.”

“Weskus Beskus – the catch phrase that West Coast Way have developed for the Cape West Coast - encapsulates the richness of the Cape West Coast culture and the innovative, world-class tourism products on offer here. We look forward to sharing these with everyone at WTM 2019,” concludes Lerm.

The West Coast Way themed routes are located within an area of vast natural and cultural beauty – taking visitors through some of the country’s most awe-inspiring landscapes, where they will find plenty of fantastic attractions and charming towns to visit along the way. •

www.westcoastway.co.za

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SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE

Antarctica needs Ambassadors Responsible tourism to world’s last wilderness will create stewards for its sustainability…

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SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE

here are those who believe that visiting Antarctica is unconscionable; that the world’s last wilderness should remain beyond the reach of tourism to preserve its pristine environment. When one considers there are parts of the world that are buckling under the threat of over-tourism, it’s easy to believe that Antarctica is better off without tourists.

But why does it have to be all or nothing?

While admittedly every footprint on the world’s driest, coldest and windiest continent ‘leaves a footprint’, controlled tourism can have a positive benefit and help to sustain not only the species that find sanctuary in its frozen landscapes, but also inspire visitors to become more environmentally aware and responsible in general.

A few months ago, I would have given not a second thought to the harvesting of krill from our oceans. A recent voyage to Antarctica with the global leaders in exploration travel, Hurtigruten*, put the unsustainable fishing of this keystone species into stark light.

Krill populations an indicator of the impact of climate change

This crustacean may not be bigger than a tiny stone but remove it and the whole arch collapses because so many species depend on it for food, not least whales and penguins.

The ability of krill to survive is linked to the abundance of sea ice and this in turn, to climate change. You may never set a foot in this white wilderness, but your actions thousands of miles away will impact the survival of the species which thrive there.

“Krill is the fuel of the Southern Ocean ecosystem,” says Andy Lowther, an Australian scientist from the Norwegian Polar Institute.

Lowther is one of six scientists, including two South Africans, currently in the Antarctic to study population genetics on Deception Island.

words - Natalia Rosa / pics Natalia Rosa &

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SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE

Heading onshore at Damoy Point, Antarctica - pic: Stefan Dall Below: Hiking on Ha;fmoon Island, Antarctica - pic: Karsten Bidstrup

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passengers on board MS Midnatsol as we embarked on a 12-day journey to the South Shetland Islands and Antarctic Peninsula.

Lectures shared included an introduction to several Citizen Science Projects in which passengers could get actively involved, how the region’s species adapt to survive, the biodiversity of Antarctica, why global warming is such a contentious debate, and the continent’s flora.

I felt like I was back at university, but most of all I gained a much greater perspective of how we fit in the world. Had I not made the voyage to Antarctica, I would probably not have known that it can take over a hundred years for lichen to grow even a few inches, that the underside of a whale tail is equivalent to a human thumbprint, and that the deep-water trench that surrounds Antarctica is what keeps it frozen.

On land, Hurtigruten’s crew had made sure the footprint we left behind was minimal.

Passengers are subjected to rigorous briefings before landing, as required by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO).

Up to 100 people are allowed on shore at any given time – these travellers required to walk in designated areas only and to keep at least five metres from penguins at all times.

Any holes left in the snow are filled so as not to trap penguins in the ice and nothing is left behind – to that effect, we had been required to bio-vacuum all our outer-wear before setting foot on land. Returning to the ship, passengers are required to dip their boots into the disinfectant solution to ensure nothing picked up in one place spreads to another.

has been to the krill supply not being close enough to the islands for penguins and so they have to go further to feed.

“The overall goal is the management of krill in a sustainable way. We will be establishing the abundance and distribution of krill. West Antarctica is where krill is most abundant, but it is also where the continent is warming up the fastest,” explains Lowther, who was dropped off

by Hurtigruten’s MS Midnatsol at Whalers Bay on Deception Island for a 90-day stint in the ice with his partner, Heidi Ahonan, and several thousand Gentoo penguins.

Lowther and Ahonen were among several scientists on board – biologists, ornithologists, geologists and even a former astronaut – who shared their expertise and experience with

The Ghost of Christmas Future

Scientists like Lowther on board admit that while it’s difficult to tease out the long-term impact and variables of the impact of climate change in the past 15 to 20 years, “we are seeing the Ghost of Christmas future”, i.e. what could happen.

Lowther says there’s no doubt the weather has influenced changes to the population of penguins, krill, etc.

Antarctica has largely been excluded from the process of losing habitats and the vanishing of species which is eliminating biodiversity, adds Hurtigruten biologist Rudolf Thomann from Chile. “The continent is so disconnected from the rest of the world, it has been protected and has managed to survive in the same way it has for centuries. responsible traveller 105

SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE “The barrier of the Circumpolar current which encircles the continent is difficult to pass and the distance to land big enough so it cannot be polluted.”

The fact that humans have only had access to Antarctica in the past 200 years makes it even more important that we take great care not to mix the flora and fauna. “You are visiting the only place on earth that is untouched, unspoiled and undisturbed.

It’s our responsibility to keep it that way,” Thomann told passengers on board.

That’s a responsibility the crew on board Hurtigruten’s MS Midnatsol take very seriously.

Citizen Science Projects

Hurtigruten offers passengers an opportunity to make valuable contributions to scientific research and become stewards of the continent through four Citizen Science Projects: • Seabird distribution: Data is collected in the Drake Passage and Antarctic Peninsula on the number of pelagic birds seen throughout the duration of the voyage.

• Happy whale: Passengers are asked to take photos of whale tails to add to an online inventory of whale which can be found on happywhales.com.

• Leopard seal: Similarly, passengers are asked to take photographs of the left-hand side of the head of a leopard seal, which can be uploaded to sealeopardproject.org.

• Fjordphyto: Join the Hurtigruten expedition team to collect samples of the glacial water and determine the differences in temperature, chemistry and density, and how this impacts the krill population.

“Traveling with us, you will always get life-affirming experiences in regions where nature, people and wildlife are unique.

We take great pride in our commitment to preserve these natural wonders in all their beauty, so you will always experience the highest environmental awareness – on board and ashore.”

www.hurtigruten *Hurtigruten is represented in South Africa by Development Promotions

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MS Midnatsol in harbour at Ushuaia, Argentina

Hurtigruten to power ships with dead fish With plans to invest more than US$850m in building the world’s greenest cruise line, Hurtigruten is currently building three hybrid powered expedition cruise ships for delivery in 2019, 2020 and 2021.

This includes the world’s first battery-hybrid powered cruise ship, MS Roald Amundsen, for sustainable operations in the world’s most pristine environments, such as Antarctica. “Our ultimate goal is to operate our ships completely emission free,” says Hurtigruten CEO Daniel Skjeldam.

The next step is to power cruise ships with liquefied biogas (LBG) – fossil free, renewable gas produced from dead fish and other organic waste. The waste is refined eliminating emissions of sulphur, NOx and particles. The hybrid-powered expedition ship, accommodating 530 guests, will be custom-built for some of the most extreme conditions on the planet with a specially designed ice-strengthened hull.By 2021, Hurtigruten plans to operate at least six of its ships on a combination of biogas, LNG and large battery packs.

“These are greener, more advanced cruise ships than the world has ever seen and ships that will raise standards for the whole industry to follow, as we enter a new era of expedition cruising driven by sustainability,” Skjeldam concludes. responsible traveller 107

What’s news...

Graskop Gorge Lift Co to create Panorama Route adventure hub Mpumalanga’s scenic Panorama Route will soon have a new Adventure Hub that will give visitors to the area even more to do! The development is part of the second phase of the Graskop Gorge Lift Co, the first phase of which opened in December 2017.

Renowned for its spectacular beauty and many natural attractions – such as the Sabie, Lisbon, Berlin and Mac Mac waterfalls; God’s Window; the Blyde River Canyon; Bourke’s Luck Potholes; and the Three Rondawels – the Panorama Route is on the north-eastern section of the Great Escarpment of the Drakensberg.

“While it is an established tourist destination for domestic and international tourists, few new tourist developments in recent years meant that the area developed a bit of been-there, seenthat reputation. Compounding the matter was the scant attention paid to the maintenance of the many existing natural attractions by the local authorities,” says Oupa Pilane, one of the directors of the Graskop Gorge Lift Co. The opening of the viewing lift that transports people 51m down into the gorge for a magical forest experience, brought new life to the region, says Pilane, who is also the president of the Kruger Lowveld Chamber of Business and Tourism.

In its first year, 128 000 people visited the site and 63 411 paid to go down the lift and into the forest below. Work is now under way to bring the second phase of the development on line.

This includes a suspension bridge linking the southern side of the gorge, where the lift is situated, with the northern side, which houses the Big Swing. A walkway will be built around the edge of the gorge as an alternative means of access to either side.

The Adventure Hub will include a number of activities: the lift and forest experience, the 70-metre free-fall Big Swing, the 130m zipline, guided electric bike trails through the wonderful scenery on the northern side; walking trails and mountain bike trails.

The Big Swing centre is to be given an overhaul, while additional walkways, interpretation boards and seating areas will be created to

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expand the existing 600m forest trail at the bottom of the gorge.

In addition, mountain bike trail experts and a resident-driven conservation group will help rehabilitate and create new trails along the part of the Jock of the Bushveld hiking trail known as Fairyland because of its magical scenery and several sandstone formations eroded into fanciful shapes. Fairyland is comprised of open grassland and a small indigenous forest.

“We will continue to uphold our commitment of making this beautiful area more accessible without damaging the environment,” says fellow director Campbell Scott, a tourism entrepreneur and wildlife enthusiast.

He is excited about the possibilities offered

by Fairyland to explore the Panorama Route’s majestic beauty. “People will be able to walk or cycle all way to the Pinnacle Gorge, through some wonderful vegetation.”

On the infrastructure side, the viewing lift will be fitted with an air-conditioner and glass doors, the road leading to the Graskop Gorge Lift Co entrance will be reworked to allow for increased traffic, and new perimeter fencing will be installed. Inside the property, a casual outdoor food area will be created to complement the Life Café, which serves sit-down meals.

“We are working hard to uplift the Panorama Route’s tourism experience and will continue to work with various stakeholders to increase the region’s visitor numbers. We trust that by creating an adventure hub that entices people to spend more time in the area, we will indirectly benefit the tourist towns in close proximity,” says James Sheard, the third director and owner of nearby Misty Mountain and the Long Tom Toboggan.

“The Panorama Route is great as a stopover to the Kruger Park but with its magnificence and many world-known attractions, it should be a destination in its own right,” says Sheard. •

www.graskopgorgeliftcompany. co.za

What’s news...

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15 AMAZING COUNTRIES Countless amazing responsible tourism experiences

If you’re a traveller who’s concerned about the impacts of your travels, then Southern Africa is the destination for you. In the three years that the African Responsible Tourism Awards has been running, a whopping 46 awards have been

handed to tourism organisations from Southern African countries. Some have gone to shine on the global stage, with southern African countries having racked up 11 wins at the World Responsible Tourism Awards since 2015.

ANGOLA

BOTSWANA

DRC

LESOTHO

MADAGASCAR

MALAWI

MAURITIUS

MOZAMBIQUE

NAMIBIA

SEYCHELLES

SOUTH AFRICA

SWAZILAND

TANZANIA

ZAMBIA

ZIMBABWE

The Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern Africa (RETOSA) is a Southern African Development Community (SADC) body responsible for the development of tourism and regional destination marketing across the 15 Southern Africa countries. www.retosa.co.za