Responsible Traveller mag - edition 4 - 2018

R E S P O N S I B L E edition 4 – 2018

be the difference

Culture, communities

& Conservation

w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a

The only 5-star cage diving experience in South Africa. More than just a dive, our biologists share their knowledge & adventures on each trip!

Experience the Marine Big Five in their natural environment.

Focused on the protection of African Penguins & sea birds.

Discover & Protect - in partnership with the Dyer Island Conservation Trust.

www.DICT.org.za

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Welcome to another edition of Responsible Traveller.

In this edition we celebrate Culture, Communities & Conservation...

We travel to Botswana’s Chobe Game Lodge to experience elephants and ecoinitiatives and to Ponto Malongane in southern Mozambique to experience the tranquility of Tartaruga Maritima. We find out about the great conservation initiatives of the African Penguin & Seabird Sanctuary and encourage you to be part of this by participating on the annual March for Penguins. Clive Horlock shares his experiences of the wisdom of the Kalahari’s bushmen and we’re introduced to G Adventures hottest adventure destinations for 2019. Heaps of inspiration to have you booking a mid-year break or planning a special getaway.

And keeping in mind that with summer comes time on the beach and the ocean, we take a long hard look at marine pollution – say NO to plastic, especially those straws in your fabulously fruity cocktails.

As we say farewell to 2018, let’s consider our blessings and look back with gratitude.. Take a moment to think about our impact on the environment and the people we come into contact with - consider being a little kinder and live with a deeper sense of love and appreciation for those around us, not just our nearest and dearest, but those less fortunate too. And as it says in the scriptures, ‘There is greater blessing in giving than in receiving’ so be abundantly blessed this Christmas season!

Let’s celebrate the successes of 2018 with gratitude and step into 2019 with joy and anticipation - let it be your BEST year yet!

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

Tessa Magazine Information edition 4 - 2018 Publisher / Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published bi-monthly

Cover Image: Elephant at Chobe National Park pic - Tessa Buhrmann

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents REGULARS: Comment

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Being a Responsible Traveller 05

DESTINATIONS & PLACES TO STAY:

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Elephants and eco-initiatives at Chobe Game Lodge

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Tartaruga Tranquility ay Ponto Malongane 70 Sustainable Destinations for 2019 88

ADVENTURE & ACTIVITIES: Vergelegen, a world-class, sustainable Wine Estate 34 2019s hottest Adventure Destinations

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SUSTAINABILE TOURISM & CONSERVATION: March for the Penguins 22

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Bull elephants join the herd at Samara Private Game Reserve 68 Vanishing Wisdom 100 Take only pictures... leave only footprints

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A good news story for lion conservation

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New Hope for threatened cats

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NEWS:

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SALT of Palmer opens on the east coast of Mauritius

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Samui goes green to protect island ecosystem

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Treadright Foundation unveils new Storytellers video

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BOOK REVIEW - The First Safari by Ian Glenn

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Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge wins Global Best Practice Award

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Hurtigruten expands its selection of expedition cruises

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Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge launches its solar plant

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KLM taking care of People and Planet

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www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

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Elephants & eco-initiatives ...at Chobe Game Lodge

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Words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann responsible traveller 07

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here is just SO much to love about Chobe Game Lodge… the luxurious rooms and comfy lounge areas, the shaded gardens and scrumptious food – from delicious breakfasts, the yummiest cappuccinos and cocktails, to the finest of dining and most decadent of desserts. Then there are the towering trees alive with bird sounds, the 250m long elevated boardwalk and deck made from recycled plastic, and the expansive views over the Chobe River. And the fabulous safari experiences from the fleet to electrically-powered vehicles and boats.

And there’s no better way of experiencing elephants on the Chobe River than an electrically powered boat! With an estimated population of around 120,000 it’s not surprising that Chobe National Park is famous for its elephants, easily seen during the dry season when impressive herds gather in the vicinity of the Chobe River.

During our dry season visit we had elephants crossing roads in front of- and behind us, sometimes all around us. We watched as they browsed the dry trees and bush looking for sustenance or quenching their thirst in the river and taking mud baths. But an absolute highlight was watching them swim across the Chobe – not just once, but numerous times.

One of these was nothing short of spectacular as a huge herd, perhaps spooked by the presence of man, crossed from the Namibian side with much urgency. Our guide Kgomotso, one of 16 in the all-female guiding team, was quick to notice that a huge herd of elephant

Elephant crossing begins

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was rushing towards the banks of the river from the Namibian side and skilfully manoeuvred the boat so that we were in the best spot to experience the crossing… and oh my, experience it we did!!

One of the benefits of the electric boats is that they are relatively silent enabling you to get much closer to birds and other wildlife from the water – a definite bonus for photographers. An African open-bill barely noticed us, continuing its search for molluscs and a pair of yellowbilled storks maintained their vigilant search for fish, oblivious of our presence. We watched crocs fishing in the shallows for barbel, while a herd of puku watched on from the shore.

On another occasion we were gliding along the slow and ponderous Chobe River to where it changed direction to loop around the puku flats, a vast flood plain opposite Chobe Savanna Lodge. Along the banks of this loop were elephant almost as far as the eye could see, moving from the southern bank towards the

Kgomotso our electric boat safari guide

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A portion of a large herd of elephant crossing the Chobe

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‘One of the many benefits of the electric boats is that they are relatively silent enabling you to get much closer to birds and other wildlife from the water - a definite bonus for photographers...’

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Two of the all-female guiding team

lush vegetation on the flood plain. They were crossing in relatively small ‘family groups’, with one of the elephant clearly taking the lead and ‘testing’ the waters for safety. A large croc with a very full belly was sunning itself while elephants crossed behind it and a group of wild dog ran out from the cover of the bush, clearly on a mission and covering the distance quickly.

What better way to end a successful afternoon of game viewing than with G&T’s and a spectacular sunset!

here last night’ she says as she scans the trees.

Despite being well camouflaged by bushes she spots a young leopard which, as desirable sightings often do, decided to head further into the bushes. Silently she manoeuvred the Land Rover to the other side just as the young male leopard emerges and flops down in full view of us – not bothered by our presence and certainly appreciating the quiet of our vehicle.

Excitement reigned, and cameras clicked, especially as his brother soon joined him.

At Chobe Game Lodge when talking ‘electricpowered’, you aren’t just talking boats. Most of the game viewing vehicles now boast ‘eco’ internals, having had their diesel engines replaced with what looked like a mish-mash of electronics (from my non-technical point of view) and a ‘boat-load’ of batteries. All of which makes for fabulously silent game drives which we got to experience early one morning.

We see more elephant, loads of them. And the biggest herd of buffalo I have ever seen, estimates were that it was a herd of approximately 400 – but in perfect ‘fisherman’s tale’ fashion, the number grew exponentially.

We follow lion spoor, but to no avail but get to watch a herd of elephants quench their thirst and enjoy swishing glistening charcoal mud over their bulk.

We hear leaves rustling as a gentle breeze moves through the trees, and bird calls punctuate the still of the morning. A carmine bee-eater watches from a nearby twig and we pause for a herd of elephants to cross the track in front of us. We watch a pair of jackals scavenge from a very old elephant carcass which had died from natural causes. With barely a snack available they soon gave up and slunk back into the bush. And this was all within the first half hour!!

This idea of ‘eco’ vehicles started in 2010 when Chobe Game Lodge became one of the first properties in Botswana to be fully ecotourismcertified. Jump four years and they became the first electric-powered safari operator in Africa.

Johan Bruwer, General Manager of Chobe Game Lodge, told us that this was at a huge cost, especially in the early days when the technology was still new – but thankfully it is a little cheaper now and the next few years will see the last of the fleet (both game vehicles and boats) being converted from diesel to electric.

‘But it’s not about the cost’ he says, ‘it’s about doing the right thing’.

Gobe, another member of the female guiding team, slows the vehicle… ‘guests saw leopard 12 responsible traveller

Hippos fighting over territory

Black-backed jackal scavenging

Carmine bee-eater

African open-bill with a mollusc in its beak

Puku antelope on the flats

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Elephant encounter in an alectric game viewing vehicle - pic credit Desert & Delta Safaris

Johan takes us on a behind the scene tour of Chobe Game Lodge’s eco-initiatives, and from the start it is clear there are many ‘things’ that they are doing ‘right’. From the rigorous Environmental Management Plan (EMP) that measures all aspects of operations - from energy consumption (fuel, generator, electricity as well as biogas and LPG), water consumption and grey water output as well as waste management (food waste, recycling and municipal waste) to the sourcing of local products, suppliers and even staff.

Johan tells us that most of their staff are recruited locally to ensure additional benefits to the community of Kasane. He adds that 14 responsible traveller

Chobe Game Lodge is committed to employing female staff, especially in the Guiding Department, offering them opportunities to work and excel in a predominantly male dominated field.

The 600 square meters of solar panels on the back-of-house roofs generate 104Kwh of electricity at peak performance are supplemented by electricity from Kasane’s main grid which is fed by power generated by the Victoria Falls hydro-electric power scheme – a clean sustainable energy source. It’s good to know that the yummy omelette and delicious cappuccino I had for breakfast were prepared using ‘clean’ energy.

The array of solar panels Crushed glass ready for brick-making

‘Electricity is supplemented by power from Kasane’s main grid which is fed by power generated by the Victoria Falls hydro-electric power scheme - a clean sustainable energy source ...’

It’s also good to know that the awesome shower in my room is heated by solar water heater panels and that the waste water captured by the closed septic tanks and then treated in the Lodge’s own above ground sewage treatment plant. The grey water is treated by a natural anaerobic process that purifies and cleans up the grey water, which then flows into ozone tanks where any harmful bacteria that remain are killed. This fully processed water is then mixed with river water to irrigate the gardens. No wonder they look so lush and green!

At the recycling centre we watched glass being prepped for the glass pulveriser, where it would responsible traveller 15

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The suites at Chobe Game Lodge look out over shady lawns

‘These initiatives resulted in Chobe Game Lodge being one of the first lodges in Botswana to be fully Eco Tourism certified.

Which is no mean feat in a building that was built in the 1970s...’ responsible traveller 17

View over the Chobe River from the deck and boardwalk

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be reduced to the consistency of course sand and then used to make bricks for use in building projects. There were blocks of crushed cans awaiting recycling and bags of plastic water bottles awaiting collection

by Aquarite, their mineral water supplier, to be recycled and re-used. Cardboard boxes and polystyrene punnets were separated and cleaned ready to be returned to Ron’s Fresh Produce, their main fresh and frozen goods supplier.

Food waste from the kitchen is bagged and then sent to the onsite Biogas Plant where it is processed and fed into the two biogas reactors to produce methane gas which is used for cooking in the staff canteen.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t see it in operation as its currently out of operation. Due to the size of the project – one of the biggest in the country – it has been a bit of a test project and needs refining which they currently doing. So, it should be back online soon. Any combustible materials that cannot be reused or recycled are incinerated onsite and the ash used as a fertiliser for the lawns.

These initiatives resulted in Chobe Game Lodge being one of the first lodges in Botswana to be fully Eco Tourism certified.

Which is no mean feat in a building that was built in the 1970s. Its distinctly Moorish architecture with impressive arches and expansive interiors is testament to the fact that bricks and mortar was the building method of choice back then, way before sustainability became a catch-phrase.

‘The 250m long elevated boardwalk and deck is made using board created from recycled plastic, and has expansive views over the Chobe River....’

Once completed it was one of the first 5-star luxury lodges in Botswana. The lodge was closed in 1977 due the Rhodesian bush war and reopened in 1984 after being purchased by business partners Jonathan Gibson and Ian Green. Fast forward numerous decades and this beautifully refurbished and eco-friendly Chobe Game Lodge is what we see today.

That evening we dine on the deck surrounded by indigenous trees and beneath a canopy of stars. Immersed in the night sounds along the Chobe River we almost miss a lone elephant bull as he saunters below along the river bank. For me that one moment encapsulated the ethos of Chobe Game Lodge – nature, nurture and a wonderfully natural aesthetic. •

www.chobegamelodge.com responsible traveller 19

What’s news...

SALT of Palmer opens on the east coast of Mauritius Newly launched hotel brand, SALT, has opened the doors to its first resort, 59-key SALT of Palmar located on the east coast of Mauritius. It is a restful base conceived to champion sustainability, connect with the local community and introduce culturally curious, style savvy, modern travellers to the real, unvarnished Mauritius.

Its distinctive look is born out of collaboration between local Mauritian architect Jean-François Adam of JFA Architects, an award-winning visionary behind notable contemporary spaces in Mauritius and abroad; and French artist, Camille Walala, whose vivid murals adorn buildings across the globe. Camille’s first foray into the hotel world brings a stunning new addition to Mauritius’ design landscape that reflects the progressive spirit of SALT. Devoted to the wonder of all things local and sustainable, the unconventional new hotel brand is committed to taking guests to people – not just places – and unearthing the beating heart of destinations. So, at the core of JeanFrançois’ designs is a desire to bring the natural environment and local Mauritian way of life to the forefront, giving every visitor a real sense of what his homeland has to offer.

Taking an incredible existing geometric, riad-like building on the fringe of Palmar beach’s pure white sand, he carefully repurposed the standing structures to accentuate the hotel’s proximity to the sea. As part of this, he orientated all beds to face the water and redesigned the pool to better its connection with the beach. In addition, he played to the island’s warm tropical light, allowing the location’s natural colours to shine.

Fauna and flora have been protected throughout

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this project; adding a sense of timeless serenity to the scene.

Jean-François’ explained, “Everything about the hotel is designed to bring people together. From the communal tables in the bakery, restaurant and beach bar, to Mauritius’ first roof-top bar and the inviting spaces in the SALT equilibrium spa, it is all about gathering and sharing stories of travels and enjoyment of this incredible location.”

With the energy of doing things differently living at the heart of the SALT brand, it is fitting that the interiors were realised by an artist instead of an interior designer. Camille Walala’s uninhibited approach to colour married with her passion for the island of Mauritius made her the perfect choice.

Camille’s task was to find the perfect balance between her own creative impulse and the authentic expression of the island’s character – fresh, playful and irresistibly positive in outlook.

To find inspiration, she travelled around Mauritius, meeting with local artisans and absorbing the bright palette that punctuates the island; from verdant landscapes, brightly painted houses, azure seascapes and show-stopping sunsets, to the spirit of its communities and the colourful mosaic of culture that makes Mauritius so special.

Walala commented, “People paint their houses in the most amazing tones that really stand out against the lush tropical setting. When choosing the colours for SALT of Palmar I wanted to try and get a balance between natural tones and bold pop colours. The space is supposed to be fun and hero the beauty of the incredible island.” •

www.saltresorts.com

What’s news...

Samui goes green to protect island ecosystem The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) is working together with local stakeholders and tourists on Ko Samui to eliminate the use of single-use plastics and encourage all to reduce waste, reuse and recycle to help protect the island’s ecosystem.

Local Thai authorities on Ko Samui are proactively campaigning for recycling and waste management. It is urging residents and business operators to separate their waste for recycling to reduce the amount of garbage produce on the island. Mr. Yuthasak Supasorn, TAT Governor, said, “Education and awareness are the keys to success for this initiative. TAT proactively encourages both tourists and tourism businesses to help reduce tourism waste on the paradise island of Samui.

“Changing behaviour doesn’t happen overnight.

We are seeing an increase in reusable cloth bags when shopping, and both visitors and residents are pitching in to do their part and help keep the island clean.”

Waste reduction thinking is quickly gaining traction amongst environmentally concerned Thai businesses and globetrotters on Ko Samui.

With some of the most stunning landscapes in Thailand, it is no wonder that visitors to Ko Samui continue to increase at an astonishing pace. With this influx comes a need to find a balance between the competitive, high level service and environmental impact.

Fortunately, as attention has turned to exploring ways to preserve Ko Samui’s delicate ecosystem, travellers can give back to the local Thai community by creating less waste and leaving a minimal holiday footprint.

Local stores and shops on the island are campaigning against single-use plastics. Hotels and resorts as well as tourism-related businesses on Ko Samui are also helping to lead the way on responsible waste management by following the three ‘R’ principle: reduction, reuse and recycle.

Luxury resorts on Ko Samui were among the first to use the plant-based straw revolution that is sweeping across Thailand and make their tourism operations more sustainable. One organisation on the tip of the spear is the ‘Trash Hero Ko Samui’ initiative, when volunteers meet every Saturday at 10 a.m. to clean Samui’s beaches.

Under the TAT’s on-going responsible tourism strategy, a new ‘Travel Thailand in Style, Reduce Plastic Waste’ collaboration initiative with various stakeholders was launched in August this year.

It has an ambitious target to cut tourism-related waste by up to 50 percent by 2020.

Targeting both tourists and businesses to address waste problems in key travel destinations, TAT also encourages consumption of reusable or sustainable items; such as, plant-based drinking straws instead of plastic straws, cotton bags instead of plastic bags, water tumblers instead of plastic bottles, and reusable food utensils instead of single-use plastic or foam items.

Back in March 2017, TAT partnered with PTT Global Chemical and the Ecoalf Foundation to launch an ‘Upcycling the Oceans, Thailand’ initiative. It made Thailand the first country in Asia to join the global ocean clean-up effort to reduce debris along Thailand’s coastal regions, especially in popular tourist areas on the east coast, in the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea. •

www.tourismthailand.org

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

MARCH FOR THE PENGUINS...

A fun walk for the African Penguin, but can we #BEAT2026?

Ready, set, GO! 22 responsible traveller

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

he African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary (APSS) is excited to host the second, annual March for the Penguins on the 21st December 2018 – a 5km more FUN than run family event. Can we win the ultimate race and stop the extinction of the African Penguin before 2026, the predicted date of their extinction in the wild.

The story of the African penguin is not a good story to tell. The present population is about 1.1% of that at the start of the 20th century when it was estimated at over 1.45 million adult birds.

Historical factors like guano scraping for agricultural fertilizer destroyed their breeding habitat. The collection of an estimated 13 million eggs further contributed to the initial population decline.

Now they face issues of predation by gulls and seals; oiling; marine pollution; and a lack of food.

In 2006 the Dyer Island Conservation Trust (DICT) was established. A key objective of the Trust is to rebuild the Dyer Island penguin population. This once thriving colony has been reduced from 25 000 breeding pairs in the 70s to a mere 2000 individuals today.

In 2015 the Trust opened the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary, a specialised seabird rehabilitation facility situated in Kleinbaai and in close proximity to Dyer Island. Injured and compromised penguins and other seabirds can now receive prompt treatment thereby increasing rehabilitation success.

So what is the March for the Penguins all about: • Fundraising – Caring for our penguin patients is a costly affair, every extra penny we raise through events will contribute to the cause.

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Awareness – The only way to prevent the plummeting penguin population numbers, is by effecting change. Change becomes reality when people are informed about

issues. It is our responsibility to educate people about the pressures on the penguins specifically and the greater environment in general. We use events like this to spread the word and to effect change. Your way of life influences the health of the ocean.

What does the event entail?

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There is the “Waddle, walk, wander or run but have some fun” main event. A 5 km scenic walk or run along the Kleinbaai coast.

Additional attractions in 2018 includes: •

Challenging families and groups to dress like a penguin, with prizes for the best penguin impression. Participants will be encouraged to display the African penguin black & white colours.

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A Caricaturist to capture the family fun.

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A world renowned kite maker, flying philosauruses, zombie chickens, an octopus, and various other objects to brighten the day .

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Health & Active Spin-a-thon “penguins”, because all events need “spinning”.

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A #ThumbsUpForPenguins campaign – showing support for the penguins by “penguinfying” your thumb nail.

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There will be eats & drinks to fortify the penguin participants.

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Our conservation partners will be on hand to have the conservation conversation.

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The normal coffee, cake & curios will be available inside the APSS.

The target for 21 December 2018?

We hope to reach our target of 500 entrants For online ticket sales: BOOK HERE

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Scenes from 2017...

Book HERE to join the fun at the 2018 event

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

Some of the Penguin Projects...

PENTHOUSES FOR PENGUINS

Imagine having your home flattened and all possible building material removed. Raising children in the open, under the relentless glare of the African sun and facing a possible flood every time it rains. If you manage to survive the elements you have to deal with a barrage of attacks by the ever-present Sea Gull Gang – not an easy task.

We could therefore reach the following conclusions: • Temperature inside is the nest most important aspect – material must try to mimic conditions of guano burrows.

• Nest size – must be able to accommodate 1 adult & 2 chicks • The penguins must be able to defend the access to the nest • Adequate ventilation • Ideal temperature: 24 – 26oC • Humidity: 80 – 90%

The background

Testing times

Before the advent of artificially produced fertiliser, guano was considered a top quality fertiliser rich in nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. Guano (an Inca word for a mix of eggshell, feathers, decayed corpses and bird excrement) was scraped from the penguin breeding islands. On Dyer Island, the guano layer was between 4-6m deep. Penguins used to build their nests by burrowing into the thick layers of guano. This “forced removal” from well protected, temperature controlled burrows to open surface nests, exposed the African Penguin to the harsh African heat and occasional flooding. The “open-plan” living arrangement turned their eggs and chicks into an easy meal for predators like gulls & skuas.

The nest team spent 3 months rigorously field- testing 15 different nest prototypes, each equipped with high-precision sensors, to provide us with information about the microclimate conditions inside the various test nests.

Why are we designing the perfect artificial African penguin nest?

But Africa is not for sissy’s and the tenacious African penguin is living proof of that. They like it here and have every intention to stay.

At the start of the project in 2006, the main aim of the artificial nests was to provide protection from predation. The original nests were manufactured from fibre-glass and although the nests addressed the predation problem, research indicated that the nests became too hot inside. Penguins simply abandoned the nest leaving eggs and chicks behind.

Meeting the housing needs of the African penguin This started us on the quest for the perfect penguin penthouse. Research told us that the guano burrows provided the penguins with: • • • • •

A constant micro-climate High relative humidity Buffered temperatures Little exposure to the wind Shelter from rain & predation

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The “winning” nest material is a ceramic based slurry. The interior volume of the nest was based on measurements of wild guano nests.

The nest entrance mimics the entrance hole of the old guano burrows.

The new style penguin penthouses were revealed to the penguin populations of Bird Island in the Eastern Cape and Dyer Island in the Western Cape in February 2018. Continued environmental monitoring proofed that the new design meets all the environmental requirements, but ultimately we need to know that the penguins will successfully breed and raise their chicks in these newly designed penthouses.

In the upcoming breeding season all the breeding colonies will be provided with a number of the new nests. Hopefully, the penguins will take to their new homes like “penguins to water” and they will be able to raise their chicks without fear of predation or exposure to extreme weather conditions.

We do not aim to save the African penguin from extinction because they are cute waddling comedians on land and the world’s best underwater flyers. They play a vital role in fertilising the fish nurseries around islands, they are part of the biodiversity of our ocean.

The African penguin is an indicator species, their demise should have set off alarm bells.

We can no longer afford to be ignorant, we must act.

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Penthouses for Penguins

FOR MORE INFO CONTACT: Trudi Malan, South African Project Co coordinator, African penguin Artificial Nest Project 0829405521 / conservation@dict.org.za

Lead Organisations : American Zoo Association – SAFE campaign (Saving Animals From Extinction®) Dyer Island Conservation Trust & the African Penguin & Seabird Sanctuary Pan African Association of Zoo’s & Aquaria Other organisations: SanParks – CapeNature – Department of Environmental Affairs – The Habitat Working Group of the African Penguin Biodiversity Management Plan (APBMP) – Other members of the APBMP SANCCOB – Birdlife SA responsible traveller 27

CONSERVATION PROFILE PENGUIN RESCUE...

OILED PENGUINS (and other sea birds) Some major oil spills have occurred in South Africa that have had an impact on penguin numbers – the one most remembered is the Treasure oil spill in 2000 that affected 19,000 birds. Oil can kill penguins and impair their breeding success. There are often times old wrecks that leak oil or illegal dumping of oil by ships far out at sea. It is often impossible to identify the source but even a small amount of oil will impact a penguin’s waterproofing leading to hypothermia. When a penguin comes into the sanctuary after being oiled, it is given charcoal tablets to help break down any ingested oil. Once the bird has been stabilised, the washing process can begin. It takes about twenty minutes to clean a bird and another two weeks for the feathers to regain their waterproofing abilities.

The Dyer Island Conservation Trust works together with conservation partners like the Department of Environmental Affairs and CapeNature to prepare and maintain an oil contingency plan for the Dyer Island ecosystem.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

ENTANGLED PENGUINS This fishing line entangled African penguin was spotted by the skipper of Dreamcatcher, the Dyer Island Cruises boat, just off Kleinbaai on the 17th September 2018. The penguin was heavily entangled with line tightly wound through the beak, around the neck, flippers and feet preventing the bird from swimming or diving. The penguin was exhausted and drowning was imminent.

The team from Dyer Island Conservation Trust immediately launched Happy Feet, a smaller rubber duck that allows them to operate in shallow water. The penguin was rescued and rushed to the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary. The APSS team together with Dr Marc Walton commenced with “plastic surgery” immediately.

Thankfully, this story has a happy outcome and Sindile (meaning ‘I survived’ in isiXhosa) is doing well. Most often we find only the remnants of seabird carcasses with deadly fishing line filaments.

Since 2010, the Dyer Island Conservation Trust has been managing the fishing line bin project.

Through this project, the Trust increases public awareness of the negative impacts of fishing line debris and encourages correct disposal by a network of unique fishing line bins strategically placed along the South African coastline.

To support the fishing line bin project, donate HERE

Sindile the entangled penguin Below right - finally a happy un-entangled penguin

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

RELEASED PENGUINS Once a penguin is well and at a healthy weight (over 2,5kgs) and with waterproofing of its feathers restored, it is released either directly on Dyer Island or nearby off the Dyer Island Cruises vessel. All penguin chicks that were ‘abandoned’ when their parents started their annual moult are placed directly on the island. They should then recognise Dyer Island as their birth colony and return there to breed at 3/4 years of age. Penguins are island dwellers and we hope in this way to rebuild the Dyer island population. Penguin chicks have a lot of factors against them before breeding age so first prize is to return adults into the breeding population. If possible, a release off Kleinbaai is done, and then the public can observe this. #EveryPenguinCounts 30 responsible traveller

CONSERVATION PROFILE

‘Whilst the population was once over a million in the 1920s, now there are only 15,000 breeding pairs left. As an indicator species this devastating loss reminds us of the fragility of our environment...’ responsible traveller 31

CONSERVATION PROFILE

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

About the Dyer Island Conservation Trust The Dyer Island Conservation Trust is a registered Non-Profit Organisation as well as a registered Public Benefit Organisation (930032314) in terms of section 30 of the Income Tax Act 58 of 1962. Donations to the organisation are exempt from donations tax in terms of section 56(1)(h) of the Act. A taxpayer making a bona fide donation in cash or of property in kind to a section 18A-approved organisation, is entitled to a deduction from taxable income if the donation is supported by the necessary section 18A receipt issued by the organisation.

Taxpayers – natural persons, trusts, companies, or close corporations – can deduct from their taxable income, the amounts they donated to approved organisations, up to the value of 10 percent of their taxable income. The DICT qualifies as a LEVEL 1 Broad-Based Black Economic Empowerment contributor in terms of the requirements of the Amended Codes of Good Practice as gazetted on 11 October 2013.

The AFRICAN PENGUIN & SEABIRD SANCTUARY (APSS) is a Dyer Island Conservation Trust (DICT) project based in Gansbaai. A state of the art facility, designed and built by passionate experts, that strives to provide local marine avian species with a local rehabilitative centre where injured, diseased or distressed birds can be treated and rehabilitated.

Although the facility was purpose built for rehabilitation of marine birds, it also caters for creating awareness around the perils marine birds face out in the wild. An Auditorium equipped with a big screen TV, which is linked up to the Rehabilitation area and the Bird Hospital, enables guests who visit the facility to see what is being done behind the scenes. This prevents added stress on the birds in rehabilitation by minimizing the amount of people allowed in the critical areas. The Auditorium has one way glass overlooking the Conditioning Pen - where visitors can watch birds in final preparation for release without any disturbance or interference. The greatest care is taken with cleanliness and special flooring Is used in the rehabilitation area to avoid a condition called bumblefoot that penguins are susceptible to. A curio shop selling penguin curios is on site. Coffee and cake is available. All purchases in this regard help support the sanctuary. Entrance is free. Open from 09:00 to 16:00. Feeding time at 15:00. The sanctuary depends heavily on donations and a sponsorship brick can be purchased to contribute to the centre with tiered levels of support.

Should you wish to assist our feathered friends, below are a couple of ways to do so: • • •

Contribute to the Fishy Fund – R100 per 5kg box – donate as many boxes as you wish.

Buy a penguin home – R500 – own a piece of prime ‘real estate’.

You can also support a booster block - R1000 - which means that you can have your name as a permanent supporter on the entrance wall to the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary.

All donations can be done via Paypal on www.dict.org.za or EFT to African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary FNB Hermanus 200412 A/C 62568492343

Makes a great gift for the person who has everything!!

www.dict.org.za responsible traveller 33

Vergelegen...

a world-class, sustainable Wine Estate 34 responsible traveller

V

ergelegen ‒ established 318 years ago in Somerset West, South Africa ‒ is a treasure trove of wine, food, exquisite gardens, culture and biodiversity. Rambling over 3000 hectares between the Helderberg and Hottentots Holland mountains, within easy reach of Cape Town, Vergelegen wine estate is a multi-layered destination that’s ideal for both tourists and locals eager to sample the best of the Western Cape in one easy trip. responsible traveller 35

About 100 000 visitors – half of whom are based beyond South Africa’s borders – travel to the outstanding estate every year.

Vergelegen offers something for everybody, whether you’re a passionate gourmet and wine lover, gardening enthusiast, history buff, or simply want to enjoy a relaxed and delicious family lunch while your children frolic in the state-of-the-art playground.

Wine...

It’s no surprise that Vergelegen received the International Best of Wine Tourism, Cape Winelands accolade in 2016 for an unprecedented fifth time. Since these awards started in 1999, no other property has won the international prize as often. Renowned for its long-term environmental initiatives, Vergelegen was also the first Biodiversity and Wine Initiative Champion (2005) and has also received a Mail & Guardian Greening the Future award (2008).

Vergelegen MD Don Tooth attributes the estate’s appeal to meticulous restoration of and care for its priceless heritage, coupled with strategic investment to ensure that it remains sustainable for future generations to enjoy.

Restoration and renovation...

“The estate was bought from the Barlow family by the current owner, Anglo American, in 1987,” he says. “The buildings and grounds were restored to their former glory and opened to the public. There was also investment in the vineyards, which is ongoing, with the long-term goal of producing a superlative wine on a par with the best in the world.

“About eight years ago, we also reviewed our hospitality assets. After careful consideration and receiving expert architectural, heritage and environmental opinion, we received Board approval to go ahead for the long-term benefit of the estate.”

The result? A welcoming wine tasting centre, a family-friendly bistro (known as Stables) with incredible views of the magnificent Hottentots Holland mountains, and a signature restaurant, Camphors.

Camphors signature restaurant...

Within its first year of operation, Camphors was included in the coveted South African Eat Out top ten restaurants. Last year 36 responsible traveller

Vergelegen Homestead and Octagonal Garden

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(2017) it not only scooped sixth place in the prestigious Eat Out Mercedes Benz Restaurant Awards, but was also awarded the Eat Out Woolworths Sustainability Award.

The restaurant is named after five giant camphor trees, legislated as national monuments in 1942, and is located in exquisite gardens near the banks of the Lourens River.

This is the only South African river that is a protected area, and 10 kilometres (of a total 20 km) flow through the estate.

Vergelegen’s famous wine is the starting point for creating the Camphors menus, which 38 responsible traveller

encourage guests to experiment and explore various food and wine flavour combinations.

A large percentage of the vineyards are dry land, receiving no added water at all. The entire 3000 hectare property is completely self-sustainable in terms of water, with its own purification plant and an on-site water filtration system.

Camphors’ hyper-seasonal cuisine reflects the wide variety of produce sourced from the farm gardens, orchards and pastures, as well as from specialist suppliers. The menu always embodies a sense of place. The aim is to understand and appreciate the original

Camphors signature restuarant exterior

‘Camphors’ hyper-seasonal cuisine reflects the wide variety of produce sourced from the farm gardens, orchards and pastures, as well as specialist suppliers. The menu always embodies a sense of place...’

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produce – where it comes from, the story, and the imagination and creativity invested in producing every single dish.

The menu is designed to use the whole animal, plant, fruit or vegetable and forms part of the story when describing dishes to guests.

Staff are trained to respect the humblest of ingredients and to do them justice.

Water-wise...

Staff harvest rainwater and also drain icebuckets to mop floors and water kitchen herbs. Gardens are watered before sunrise and after sunset to limit evaporation and lower water usage. Composting systems are in place and packaging is returned to suppliers for re-use. Auditing systems capture data and monitor the results of recycling.

Staff enjoy excellent working conditions and the estate has paid for training in first aid, firefighting, health and safety representation, and wine and spirits education. Camphors is audited twice-yearly on its occupational health and safety policies and procedures under ISO 14001 and OHAS 18001 certification.

Virus-free vineyards...

Vergelegen began a hugely ambitious project to eradicate leaf roll virus from the estate in 1999. That first, newly-planted vineyard on the farm is now 19 years old, making it the world’s oldest virus-free vineyard of its type.

The virus was discovered in South African vineyards in 1936, but farmers thought it was impossible to eradicate. The disease, spread by mealybugs, is much more apparent in red wine cultivars, but also affects white wine cultivars. Leaf roll virus diminishes the quality and volume of the harvest. Eventually the vines become uneconomical and must be uprooted – yet another burden for a sector that is already under severe financial constraints.

The team at Vergelegen have worked closely with Professor Gerhard Pietersen of the Agricultural Research Council - Plant Protection Research Institute at the University of Pretoria.

The programme was implemented in three phases: planting new, intact vineyards; uprooting badly-infected red wine cultivar vineyards and replanting them; and testing 40 responsible traveller

and treating white wine cultivars that, apart from Chardonnay and Semillon, do not readily show the effects of the virus. Every block and plant is recorded on a chart. Adjoining sections are tested and if a result is positive, every vine in a section is tested.

Gardens, homestead and history...

Before or after a meal, many Vergelegen visitors enjoy strolling through the estate’s magnificent 18 gardens and viewing historical highlights.

The estate’s 60 hectare cultural heritage area includes the meticulously restored homestead, which is furnished with beautiful antiques, porcelain and objets d’art. It also houses an interpretive centre.

A layered historicism of furniture represents the various influences over the past three centuries, such as French, Cape Dutch and Anglo-Indian. The SA National Gallery has also loaned paintings and bronzes for the homestead, acknowledging the role of onetime owner Lady Florence Phillips in restoring Vergelegen and helping to establish many cultural institutions in South Africa.

There is also a library (a converted wine cellar built in 1816) housing over 4500 books that belonged to her husband, mining magnate and philanthropist Sir Lionel Phillips.

Ancient trees...

Under the ownership of Governor Willem Adriaan van der Stel, the farm was expanded into a model country estate: he laid out fruit orchards and orange groves, planted camphors and oaks, cultivated half a million vine stocks and established 18 cattle stations with 1000 cattle and 18000 sheep. An ancient, yet still thriving, mulberry tree in the gardens is a reminder of his efforts to establish a silk industry at the Cape.

The mulberry tree is just one of a host of horticultural attractions. Some of the bestknown are the five magnificent 300-year-old camphor trees, standing proudly in front of the homestead, that were declared national monuments in 1942.

There’s also Africa’s oldest living oak tree; an ancient yellowwood; and a giant oak grown from an acorn from one of the last royal oaks at England’s Blenheim Palace, home to the dukes of Marlborough and the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.

An ancient yellow-wood

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‘The rose garden was revamped a few years ago, and this undertaking took 1200 tonnes of virgin soil, 90 tonnes of peach pips, 40 tonnes of compost and 1500 new roses. ...’ 42 responsible traveller

Roses and camellias...

Newer attractions include a magnificent, world-class rose garden, displaying dozens of different rose varieties. It’s situated alongside a magical camphor forest, where guests enjoy elegant white table cloth picnics during the summer months.

The rose garden was revamped a few years ago, and this undertaking took 1200 tonnes of virgin soil, 90 tonnes of peach pips, 40 tonnes

of compost and 1500 new roses. The extensive collection of roses – many specially chosen for their glorious scent, as well as beautiful appearance – spans miniatures to rambling climbers, heritage blooms and newly-bred hybrids.

Vergelegen’s magnificent camellia collection also draws flower lovers from throughout South Africa and abroad, during winter. It is the only International Camellia Garden of Excellence in Africa, and one of only 39 in the world. responsible traveller 43

Nguni cattle...

Management introduced Nguni cattle to the property in 2001, buying stock from breeders in the Malmesbury district and Eastern Cape. By 2010, when the estate officially registered the Vergelegen Nguni Stud, the herd had grown to 180. This number has continued to increase and now stands at 340, including four stud bulls. As you enter the property, you may well spot their multi-coloured hides as they graze in the pastures.

With all these attractions, it’s no wonder that visitors continue to return to the estate year after year. Whether your tastes tend more to culture and history, or to the great outdoors, Vergelegen and its many sustainable, eco-wise attractions are worth a visit on your next trip in or to South Africa. •

www.vergelegen.co.za

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What’s news...

The TreadRight Foundation Unveils New Storytellers Video Exploring Women’s Cooperative in Jordan The TreadRight Foundation – a not-for-profit supporting people, wildlife, and the planet for generations to come – has unveiled its newest video highlighting the organization’s recently added People project in Jordan; the Iraq al-Amir Women’s Cooperative.

The TreadRight led experience was hosted by TreadRight Ambassador Céline Cousteau, who was joined by a group of influential storytellers on a journey of exploration and discovery in awe-inspiring Jordan. The central goal of their trip was to gain a greater appreciation for and understanding of the Iraq al-Amir Women’s Cooperative’s important work and future goals, as well as the struggles they might face as they look to achieve them.

Unemployment for women in Jordan is at around 33% in urban areas and even higher than that in rural areas. The cooperative was founded in 1993 with the goal of making the women in the region financially independent as well as raise their standard of living by increasing their income and preserving local heritage. Managed and run by local women, Iraq al-Amir has provided training projects on a variety of heritage handicrafts for more than 150 women from all villages of the Wadi Seer district of Jordan. The products are then also sold in the gift shop, as well as online.

“The TreadRight Foundation is supporting the Iraq al-Amir Cooperative and together we’ll be working with this cooperative to upgrade the gift shop, as well as provide merchandising expertise, and allow the group to expand their food services, creating more income opportunities for the cooperative’s members,” explains Jordanian sustainable tourism consultant Muna Haddad. “We’re working together to help the cooperative to become a viable business.”

“As an organization and with the support of the TTC family of brands, we are working to make travel matter. The Iraq al-Amir Women’s Cooperative is a perfect example of the kind of initiative that can harness the power of travel and tourism and use it to make real, sustainable positive changes in people’s lives,” says Shannon Guihan, Program Director, The TreadRight Foundation. “It was a privilege to be so warmly welcomed at the cooperative and to hear the women’s incredible and powerful stories of 46 responsible traveller

lives transformed for the better through Iraq al-Amir. Now TTC has the honour of introducing our audiences to those stories through our new video and by taking guests to visit the cooperative in Jordan.”

The TreadRight Foundation’s People pillar encourages the cultures, traditions, and arts of the communities TTC visits, seeking to enable these communities to experience the true benefit of travel and tourism through economic empowerment. This is achieved through support of micro-enterprises and communitybased travel and tourism initiatives that build a positive future for community members and their families. TreadRight looks forward to helping TTC’s family of brands continue to make travel matter, working with influential storytellers, aligning with sustainability leaders, and partnering with meaningful projects across the planet. •

www.treadright.org Watch the video HERE

What’s news...

The First Safari - Searching for François Levaillant... a Frenchman, naturalist and ornithologist THE FIRST SAFARI tells how, for a quarter of a century, Ian Glenn searched for Francois Levaillant’s notebooks and the fate of his collection and tried to solve puzzles and mysteries of Levaillant’s life and times.

Levaillant was the first and greatest South African birder, noted ornithologist, explorer, naturalist, zoological collector and anthropologist of the Cape.

He collected thousands of specimens of birds and subsequently published the six-volume Histoire Naturelle des Oiseaux d’Afrique between 1799 and 1808. His contribution to ornithology in Africa was immeasurable, and some of his specimens still exist in museums in Europe.

Through his travels, he also shaped a range of media genres: the hunting narrative; the safari; the anthropological field record; the illustrated and mapped first-person account of travel we associate with National Geographic stories; the colonial adventure story with a well-armed hero; the erotic exotic;and the investigative report on colonial brutality. Levaillant was one of the first to write about the injustices and abuse on the indigenous populations of South Africa by colonialists.

But he is perhaps best known for his contribution to ornithology - he named the bateleur eagle after the way these birds spiral down after their prey, the Klass’s Cuckoo after his Hottentot companion - whose insights and hunting skills he praised repeatedly, and the Narina Trogon. Said to be so named after a mistress of Khoikhoi origin. This book will educate and entertain and will be a great companion to all natural history lovers, to researchers, teachers looking for new South African literature and people interested in the bush or birding who want to know more about Levaillant. •

www.jacana.co.za

Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge Wins Global Best Practice Award Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge has won the Special Award; “Extraordinary Business Case and CSR”, at the official Global Best Practice Awards 2018 ceremony in Milan. Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge won this award for using eco-friendly practices in providing professional textile care through sustainable and energy efficient laundry services.

The Global Best Practice Awards was started in year 2016 with the aim of recognizing organizations that have shown ingenuity in business models that meet customer needs in a sustainable manner. Kilaguni Serena Safari lodge is the first lodge in Tsavo National park to implement a fully-fledged solar power plant to provide for its entire power requirements.

Abdulkadir Rahim, Group Engineer, Serena Hotels, says, “We are humbled to receive the Global Best Practice Award. This award demonstrates how our journey and efforts to move from fossil based energy to renewable energy sources and effective energy and waste water management has evolved over the years. Incorporating historic energy data insights to our business strategy is one of the key drivers that led us to install the solar power plant. We have also recently installed a solar power plant at the Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge and are committed in replicating this model at the other Serena Hotels properties in Africa.” •

www.serenahotels.com responsible traveller 47

2019s hottest

ADVENTURE DESTINATIONS

F

rom destinations on the rebound, to places where events and political changes are making it more exciting or accessible to visit, the adventure experts at G Adventures have mined their data and married it with customer insights, as well as topical world events, to forecast the 10 hottest spots to travel to in 2019.

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JAPAN

One country only increasing in popularity is Japan, which has been warming up for its moment in the rising sun. In 2019, Japan plays host to the Rugby World Cup, and hot on its heels is the summer Olympics in 2020. For 2019, G Adventures has revised its popular Tokyo to Kyoto tour, which will now travel further off the tourist trail to Tottori and Hagi.

In Hagi, travellers will experience a new ‘G for Good’ social enterprise project, the Hagi Homestay Association, which creates purpose and an income for the ageing population of Hagi City. An 11-day trip from Tokyo to Kyoto is priced from ZAR 34,287 pp.

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UZBEKHISTAN In 2018, Uzbekistan relaxed its visa entry requirements by introducing an e-visa for 51 countries. Interest in the ‘Stans’ shows no sign of slowing down, with G Adventures seeing a 72% increase in travellers to Uzbekistan over the past five years. As a result, G Adventures has launched two new trips for 2019, including Best of Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, with Turkmenistan a new country addition for next year. A 13-day trip is priced from ZAR 24,079 pp, travelling from Tashkent to Ashgabat.

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SENEGAL

West Africa is slowly recovering from a lapse in tourism following the Ebola breakout of 2014, and G Adventures is leading the way by introducing land-based trips in Senegal (and The Gambia) for the first time. Senegal is currently hoping to stimulate tourism, with a new airport near Dakar opening up.

A 10-day tour Senegal and The Gambia trip is priced from ZAR 24,079pp travelling from Dakar return.

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TAIWAN Taiwan - Another new destination for G Adventures in 2019 is Taiwan, which is one of the lesser-visited and most underrated countries in Asia. As food and travel become increasingly codependent, Taiwan has a growing reputation with travelling foodies, and the New York Times recently proclaimed it as ‘Asia’s most food-obsessed country’. A 10-day Taiwan tour from Taipei return is priced from ZAR 31,079pp.

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NORTHERN SRI LANKA With sales up 58% year-on-year for G Adventures, Sri Lanka shows no sign of slowing down. G Adventures first launched sailing trips last year in the south, and introduced an eastern itinerary after the first trip sold out in a number of weeks. This month, Sailing Sri Lanka - North Coast launches, taking travellers to sail the far-north. This lesser-travelled region was cut off from tourism for decades due to civil war, but it’s now open for business. We suggest getting there before it becomes as popular as the rest of Sri Lanka.

A seven-day trip from Jaffna return is priced from ZAR 19,719pp*.

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JORDAN With year-on-year growth of 71% for G Adventures, it’s safe to say Jordan’s tourism is back, mainly as a result of stability in neighbouring Egypt. In recognition, G Adventures has introduced a new tour for 2019, as well as two new ‘G for Good’ social enterprise projects; the Jia Community Restaurant which supports local women in Souf, and the Al Numeira Environmental Cafe helping water conservation near the Dead Sea. The new ‘18-to-Thirtysomethings’ Israel & Jordan budget tour is priced from ZAR 16,919pp for an eight-day trip travelling from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv.

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ICELAND

The final season of Game of Thrones will again throw its filming locations into the spotlight and Iceland is no exception. G Adventures continues to see growth in tourism, with trip sales up 127% in the past two years. While many tourists stick to the main tourist sites, G Adventures takes its low-impact, small group tours further afield, ensuring the spread of tourism dollars. Such is its commitment to give back, G Adventures has also launched a new ‘G for Good’ project, the Solheimar Ecovillage, which supports people living with disabilities. The new Wellness Iceland trip is one of 10 new Wellness tours introduced by G Adventures for 2019, and the seven-day trip is priced from ZAR 33,719pp, travelling from Reykjavik return.

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ITALY

On May 2, 2019, Italy will celebrate the 500th anniversary of artist Leonardo da Vinci’s death, and there will be a host of celebrations taking place throughout the country. Despite some of its main sites being tarnished with the overtourism brush, there are still plenty of places to explore outside the major cities, such as on G Adventures’ new Local Living Coastal Tuscany trip, where travellers will be hosted at a former G Adventures’ chief experience officers’ family home in Capalbio. Priced from ZAR 21,519pp for a seven-day trip from Rome return.

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PATAGONIA (ARGENTINA) Demand for G Adventures’ trips to Argentina have been steadily rising over the past five years, with sales up 15% in 2018 compared to 2017.

Visitors to parts of Argentina in July will be treated to a solar eclipse on the 2nd of the month, and from October G Adventures’ will offer a new trip in its Wellness travel style, featuring morning yoga sessions and afternoon excursions in Patagonia. An eight-day Wellness Patagonia trip is priced from ZAR 26,299pp travelling from Buenos Aires return.

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ETHIOPIA

Another African nation sneaking increasingly on to travellers’ wishlists is Ethiopia, with G Adventures seeing a 98% increase over the past 12 months. It’s also been in the headlines for all the right reasons, with the prime minister announcing half the country’s cabinet will be female, and the recent announcement of a new peace accord between Ethiopia and its neighbour, Eritrea. A 10-day Ethiopia tour from Addis Ababa return is priced from ZAR 28,299pp.

www.gadventures.com 66 responsible traveller

15 AMAZING COUNTRIES Countless amazing responsible tourism experiences

If you’re a traveller who’s concerned about the impacts of your travels, then Southern Africa is the destination for you. In the three years that the African Responsible Tourism Awards has been running, a whopping 46 awards have been

handed to tourism organisations from Southern African countries. Some have gone to shine on the global stage, with southern African countries having racked up 11 wins at the World Responsible Tourism Awards since 2015.

ANGOLA

BOTSWANA

DRC

LESOTHO

MADAGASCAR

MALAWI

MAURITIUS

MOZAMBIQUE

NAMIBIA

SEYCHELLES

SOUTH AFRICA

SWAZILAND

TANZANIA

ZAMBIA

ZIMBABWE

The Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern Africa (RETOSA) is a Southern African Development Community (SADC) body responsible for the development of tourism and regional destination marketing across the 15 Southern Africa countries. www.retosa.co.za

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Bull Elephants join the herd at Samara Private Game Reserve

Two bull elephants, originally from Phinda Private Game Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, have been released into Samara Private Game Reserve – the first bull elephants to return to the Plains of Camdeboo in 150 years. This follows the successful release of six female elephants into the reserve in October 2017 – a historic translocation.

“We have been so pleased with how the founder herd of female elephant have settled at Samara. We monitor their behaviour and movements closely, with a full-time monitor provided by the NGO Elephants, Rhinos & People (erp.ngo), who also co-funded the translocation to Samara and the satellite collar on the sub-matriarch.

ERP’s monitor at Samara has been training two interns, graduates of the SACT Tracker Academy, whose knowledge of elephant ecology and behaviour has progressed tremendously over the past year” says Sarah Tompkins of Samara Private Game Reserve.

“The presence of bulls is likely to bring a new dynamic to the reserve, and one which we are excited to witness as we continue to restore this breathtaking ecosystem.”

Crucially, the translocation of the two bulls will enhance the social structure of Samara’s elephant population. “We have been monitoring the female elephants at Samara for a year now”, says Ida Hansen, ERP representative. “It will be very interesting to see how they react to the two bulls and how the bulls settle in at Samara”.

The knowledge that elephant bulls are highly social creatures informed the decision to introduce two bulls so that they could enjoy each other’s company. Samara’s new bulls both originate from Phinda, where they sometimes moved together. One is approximately 30 years old weighing 6.3 tons and the other 20 years old weighing 5.7 tons.

The two bulls arrived at Samara after a 24-hour journey, ably transported by drivers Koos and Skukuza, part of Kester Vickery’s team at Conservation Solutions.

The entire operation was guided and overseen by elephant translocation experts Elephants, Rhinos & People (erp.ngo), who 68 responsible traveller

accompanied the elephants on their journey in a support vehicle.

“It was a long drive for the two bulls, but it could not have gone better. Every time we checked on them en route, they were calm, with Kahle (the older bull) resting his trunk on a tusk or on the roof outside the vehicle”, says Ida Hansen of ERP. Kahle trumpeted his arrival at Samara and we are all now guessing as to how long it will be before they link up with the little family group of females.

Sarah, who founded Samara Private Game Reserve with her husband Mark 21 years ago, has long held a vision of restoring the area to its original state. “Before early farmers and settlers eradicated the Karoo’s wildlife, it boasted a wonderfully rich biodiversity, and was home to species like cheetah, rhino, Cape lion, springbok and elephant,” Sarah comments. Thanks to the Tompkins’ dedication, and the conservation ethos which remains at Samara’s heart, their vision is steadily becoming a reality.

“The population of African elephants is in a state of crisis, having declined by an alarming 30% in just 10 years. To safeguard the future of the species, there is a need to manage elephants as part of metapopulations; a group of spatially-separated populations between which translocations can take place to ensure genetic diversity and to establish founder populations in areas where elephants previously occurred but have since been eradicated,” notes Sarah. She adds that Samara is committed to playing its part in the conservation of this iconic gentle giant.

Samara Private Game Reserve: is located 270 km from Port Elizabeth (and 53 km from Graaff-Reinet), Samara Private Game Reserve is easily accessible via excellent roads. Covering four vegetation biomes of spectacular beauty, the reserve offers accommodation in two five-star lodges, with a varity of activities including game drives, guided walks, wilderness picnics, star bed sleep-outs, mountain biking, conservation activities and a children’s programme.

www.samara.co.za

CONSERVATION PROFILE Elephant Mvula exits the truck backwards at Samara pic credit - Julius Mkhize (Samara Guide)

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Tartaruga Tranquility ...at Ponto Malongane

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woke to the sound of bird calls and rustling of leaves. For a moment I wondered where I was, the bed so comfortable and the duvet so comforting - it was mid-winter and there was a slight chill in the air.

The incessant call of a white-browed robin-chat finally roused me from my slumber. Another day of sunshine, endless beaches and chilled Dois-M’s awaited.

Opening the door of our tent I stepped out onto the raised wooden platform (so no camping creepy crawlies to worry about) to dappled light punctuated by the early morning sun peeking through the leafy canopy of indigenous coastal forest. Ah, the tranquillity! Tartaruga Maritima, meaning sea-turtle in Portuguese, is located along the coastline in a private forested estate in the little village of Ponta Malongane in southern 72 responsible traveller

Mozambique. It’s a relatively easy 13km drive from the Kosi border post, with the first portion being tarred and then the rest being a ‘4x4 only’ soft sandy road.

With the new tar road to Ponto do Oura complete this popular beach spot will be even busier and more crowded than before, so those looking for a tranquil getaway the sandy drive

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Private access to the beach from Tartaruga Maratima...

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to Ponto Malongane is recommended, with Tartaruga Maritima being the obvious choice.

This self-catering luxury tented camp offers the discerning nature lover the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle that comes with life. Each of the eight suites are named after turtles... which is kind of expected as Tartaruga maritima is the Portuguese name for a Loggerhead turtle. And each comes with an en-suite bathroom, comfy beds with mosquito netting, a fan to keep things cool and tea and coffee making facilities - easily accessible plug points keep the camera and cell phones charged.

And just as well as the village of Ponto Malongane is a photographers dream.

Following a path through the forest we exit the Kangela Estate gates and are immediately transported into a world of craft and commerce.

There are many local crafters making and selling their wares. I meet Chemi, a local craftsman working beneath a tree, he tells me that it takes two days to carve the intricate details of a fish into a piece of soft wood… some are sold at his ‘shop front’ opposite while others are sold to other vendors for resale. I admire an almost life-size sculpture of a miner, complete with headlamp, axe and two-way radio and wonder about the effort required to carve it.

There are curio stalls stocked with carvings, some local, others brought in from neighbouring African countries – everything from local fish and African wildlife to bowls, 76 responsible traveller

salad servers and other trinkets. Wafting in the breeze are colourful capulanas (sarongs), t-shirts and dresses. Young men carry poles decorated with braided bangles – with an exchange of meticais (or in this case South African rands) a couple of these locally made bangles adorned my arm. A small amount for me, but a huge amount for a local family. A colourful patchwork hat catches my eye – bright and cheerful, just like the wonderful people of the village. As did a young man selling wooden heart shaped keyrings – one now sporting my name and home to my car keys.

Appreciate the fun and funky street art, some of a commercial nature, others entertaining.

Colourful new buildings and ramshackle shacks, vie for space with traditionally built structures made from mud and wood or local reeds. Some had kiosks selling everything from tomatoes and cabbages to tinned food and toiletries. Most of the fresh produce is grown in vegetable gardens planted in the fertile ground alongside the lake. I watch a young woman watering her vegetables with a make-shift watering can – an old paint tin with holes punched in the bottom and refilled from a large bucket.

We popped into the Ibiza for sundowners, followed by dinner. Succulent seafood, or crispy Portuguese chicken. So many choices… then there’s Dois M or R&R. For the uninitiated, Dois M is a local Mozambique beer, which for decades was produced by Mac Mahon Brewery (2M) until it was acquired by SAB in 1995 and the R&R is a drink of local rum and raspberry

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‘The inland flood plains and numerous lakes and marshlands in the surrounding area make this an ideal playground for biking, hiking and 4X4 enthusiasts – just remember to keep to existing trails so as not to disturb sensitive flora and possible bird nesting sites...’ 78 responsible traveller

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Sparletta – a firm favourite with visitors to southern Mozambique.

Alternatively, stock up on basic groceries at Supermarkado, the supermarket owned by Carlos a local entrepreneur who also owns the snack bar opposite. Head back to the well kitted kitchen at Tartaruga where you’ll find everything you need to cook up a storm, and a dining and lounge area with expansive views - a great place to enjoy a chilled Dois M or relax and read a book. There’s even a Weber braai near the pool if you choose to dine outdoors. There is a small pool that’s flows into a 3m diving pool – ideal for those needing to refresh their diving skills before heading out into the big blue.

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We were up with the birds the following morning for a brisk walk. Armed with cameras and a basket we head into the village to see our ‘daily bread’ being made. We visit Mr. Mashelelo’s bakery, a small dark room behind the street kiosk, where three young men had started mixing dough at midnight. The lumps of dough are shaped and formed, then allowed to rest… placed on a wooden plank and then into the wood-fired oven. A short while later the baked bread is scooped out, allowed to cool off and then packed into crates ready to be sold. And this happens daily, throughout the year!

By the time we got there, a little after sunrise, they had baked no less than 600 pão

Mr. Mashelelo’s bakery...

‘The lumps of dough are shaped and formed, then allowed to rest… placed on a wooden plank and then into the woodfired oven. A short while later the baked bread is scooped out, allowed to cool off and then packed into crates...’

(Portuguese bread rolls) with their pão to be sold in the village market, or at their kiosk in front of the bakery attended to by the lovely Phindili, Mr. Mashelelo’s daughter. Nothing beats the deliciousness of freshly baked bread and our basket full was lucky to make it back unscathed.

The Camp Manager Moses welcomed us back with a smile, the tables were set and all we had to do was cut up the fruit, lay out the cheese and tuck into deliciousness while enjoying the expansive views over the Indian Ocean. The local Samango monkeys are also partial to the deliciousness that gets created by guests at Tartaruga and there are signs aplenty to remind one not to leave your grocery cupboard open responsible traveller 81

‘The local Samango monkeys are also partial to the deliciousness that gets created by guests at Tartaruga and there are signs aplenty to remind one not to leave your grocery cupboard open or food unattended...’

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‘The long and uninterrupted stretches of sandy beaches, the high primary sand dunes and lush coastal forests make outdoor activities a breeze no matter the weather...’ 84 responsible traveller

or food unattended. Their cute antics certainly made up for the nuisance factor though.

With the warm waters of the Mozambique current flowing southwards to within 10kms of the coastline, the sea temperatures are generally warm going up to about 28°C in the summer months and down to 21°C in the winter months. It’s only the arrival of a winter cold front that can put off a dip into the ocean. But the long and uninterrupted stretches of sandy beaches, the high primary sand dunes and lush coastal forests make outdoor activities a breeze no matter the weather.

The inland flood plains and numerous lakes and marshlands in the surrounding area make this an ideal playground for biking, hiking and 4X4 enthusiasts – just remember to keep to existing trails so as not to disturb sensitive flora and possible bird nesting sites. Another option is a day visit to the spectacular Maputo Special Reserve.

These warm waters provide an ideal ecosystem for a diversity of marine life from beautiful and pristine hard and soft coral reefs to a bewildering variety of game and reef fish, turtles, dolphins, whales, sharks and rays. Unlike the coral reefs in South Africa, most of these reefs have remained untouched for nearly two decades during the civil war, providing ideal diving opportunities for scuba divers and snorkelers alike.

In keeping with its name, Tartaruga is the ideal spot for turtle spotting with the beaches of southern Mozambique and northern KwaZulu-Natal being nesting sited for the large leatherback turtle and the smaller loggerhead turtle.

Nesting occurs during the summer months, generally from late November to early January and hatching from late December to early March depending on weather conditions. As we visited during the winter months, the closest we got to a ‘loggerhead’ was the name of our suite and our ‘hatchlings’ just happened to be the two-unit family suite at the end of a wooden walkway.

Shopping local is a key factor when considering responsible tourism, and Ponto Malongane offers many opportunities to support the local economy. From purchasing locally made crafts and curios, to dining at local restaurants – some locally owned other not, but all employing people from the local Malongane community.

Our last evening is spent at Alex’s ‘2P’ Pizza Place where we dine on ‘genuine Italian pizza’ while local musician Rinaldo entertains with the classics, from Bob Marley to Simon Garfunkel… some in English others in Portuguese. His guitar and voice charming the crowd.

I leave Ponto Malongane with a warm and fuzzy feeling – not from the Dois M (I promise) but rather from that feeling you get when a place has warmed your heart and her people have touched your soul. •

www.tartaruga.co.za responsible traveller 85

What’s news...

Hurtigruten expands its selection of expedition cruises Hurtigruten is expanding the world’s greenest and most extensive expedition cruise program with a number of new and unique destinations.

ALASKA - From 2020, Hurtigruten guests can explore the Alaskan wilderness on board the brand-new and hybrid powered MS Roald Amundsen.

Alaska is a perfect fit for Hurtigruten and our expedition cruise concept. We will go where the big ships can’t, taking you far beyond the ordinary while exploring the true beauty of Alaska, Hurtigruten CEO Daniel Skjeldam says.

With its wilderness, glaciers and culture, Alaska is a perfect destination for expedition cruising - a true frontier with a rich sense of adventure, untouched wilderness, glaciers, interesting culture and amazing wildlife. Hurtigruten takes you closer and deeper into the Alaskan wilderness – with 8 to 18 days’ voyages covering the highlights of the legendary Inside Passage combined with off the beaten path-destinations rarely visited by other cruise lines – such as picturesque Petersburg.

With the expansion to Alaska, Hurtigruten also introduces the first hybrid powered cruise ship in Alaska. Equipped with large battery packs,

MS Roald Amundsen features innovative green technology, premium surroundings and of course Hurtigruten’s signature Expedition Team, consisting of geologists, biologists, geographers, historians and activity guides for a maximum of just 500 fellow explorers.

Imagine kayaking in pristine waters, hiking through untouched wilderness and spotting bears, whales, caribou or eagles. And then returning to the comfort of a cruise ship you know is greener than any other ship you have experienced. This is the unparalleled Alaska experience Hurtigruten will offer you, Skjeldam says.

MS Roald Amundsen will conclude her 2020 Alaska season by conducting an epic North West Passage transit – from Nome, via Greenland to Halifax.

NORWEGIAN FJORDS - 2020 will mark the debut of Hurtigruten’s second hybrid-powered expedition ship, MS Fridtjof Nansen. The inaugural season of the world’s greenest and most advanced expedition ship includes exploring Norwegian fjords in a series of expedition cruises from Hamburg, adventures to Greenland and Iceland, and following in the wake of the great explorer she’s named after – venturing as far south as attempts to cross the Antarctic Circle.

Bear in Geographical Harbour, Alaska Photo: credit Katmai-National-Park-and-Preserve

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What’s news...

Along with her sister ship MS Roald Amundsen, MS Fridtjof Nansen will define a new era of expedition cruising. Green technology combined with premium comfort, the unique Hurtigruten atmosphere and outstanding culinary experiences, will allow our guests to make the most of their personal adventure, says Skjeldam.

ANTARCTICA - A true explorer’s dream where unforgettable impressions await, when you experience the awe of the most isolated and breathtaking white continent with Hurtigruten.

Calving glaciers, massive table icebergs and encounters with penguins, seals and whales few things can compare to Antarctica, where Roald Amundsen was the first person to reach the South-Pole in 1911.

Exploring Antarctica on board vessels that proudly draw their names from the golden age of polar heroes and exploration, Hurtigruten guests can choose from 31 voyages to the frozen continent.

Spanning from 12 to 23 days, the widest selection of Antarctica voyages offers the opportunity to voyage straight across the Drake Passage to maximise your time in Antarctica or spend time exploring the Falkland Islands and South Georgia en route.

RUSSIA, SVALBARD, SOUTH AMERICA AND

MORE - The 2020/2021 Hurtigruten expedition cruise program also includes Russia and Franz Josef Land (MS Spitsbergen), a wide selection of Svalbard expeditions (multiple ships), warm water expeditions to the Caribbean, and several South- and Central America voyages - including Mexico and Baja California with MS Roald Amundsen – and more.

“Since Hurtigruten started operations in Polar waters in 1893, we have been looking for new places to explore. Each and every one of our 250 destinations has been carefully handpicked by our team to give you unforgettable wilderness experiences in some of the most spectacular places on Earth”, Skjeldam says.

The introduction of the world’s first hybrid powered expedition ships is the latest in a number of Hurtigruten green initiatives.

Hurtigruten celebrated its 125th anniversary by banning all single-use-plastics.

In another industry first, Hurtigruten is completely rebuilding existing ships to run on a combination of large battery packs, liquefied natural gas (LNG) and biogas (LBG) – produced from organic waste such as dead fish. •

www.global.hurtigruten.com www.devprom.co.za

Topaz Half Moon Island, Antarctica Photo: credit Esther Koijkmeier responsible traveller 87

SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS

...which to choose in 2019 and why

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ustainability is set to become one of the most important, not to mention the coolest travel trend in 2019. It proves that, right now, travellers are making responsible choices and actively seeking out meaningful, mindful holiday experiences and destinations.

While 2017 was declared the International Year of Sustainable Tourism for Development by the United Nations, since then, we have seen more action from political stakeholders and local tourism authorities. 2019 looks no different, with more travel companies and operators advocating experiences that align with sustainability principles, and more

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destinations clambering to top sustainable travel lists globally. For travellers who are ready to help drive sustainability from a trend into mainstream travel over the next 12 months, here are five credible destinations to add to your travel plans in 2019, based on recommendations by travel industry experts.

#1 Katugastota, Sri Lanka For an island, Sri Lanka has a lot to offer, from palm-fringed beaches, UNESCO Heritage Sites, food that bursts with flavours and people that couldn’t be friendlier, says Teresa Richardson, Managing Director of The Travel Corporation, the parent company of Trafalgar.

“While a plastic bag ban was implemented in 2017, travellers in 2019 can do their part by spending time in the smaller villages,

connecting to local communities, and supporting their initiatives which helps boost incomes for local entrepreneurs and promotes job creation.

“Travel by train through Sri Lanka’s tea country to Gampola, a fabulous way to see the hill villages and to observe the daily lives of the local people. See how Ceylon tea is made and gain insight into becoming a discerning tea taster.” responsible traveller 89

#2 Chobe And The Okavango Delta, Botswana The Chobe National Park and the Okavango Delta in Botswana are great examples of how countries should conserve and protect their natural resources, says Sue Garret, General Manager for Product and Marketing at Flight Centre Travel Group. “I expect more destinations such as these to be top of the sustainability lists for travellers in 2019.”

She adds: “Many lodges and safari activities in both locations align with our Responsible Travel Charter, which advocates that take a ‘look but don’t touch’ approach to wildlife activities, thereby avoiding any attractions that involve ‘performance’, riding or closely engaging with wild animals.”

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#3 Seychelles Islands The 115 island nation of Seychelles continues to level up with ongoing sustainability initiatives, says Lena Hoareau, the Director of the Seychelles Tourist Office, South Africa.

“It was on the ball well before the official year of sustainable tourism, banning plastic bags, cups, cutlery and styrofoam packaging in 2016, while the Tourism Ministry of Seychelles has cracked down on large hotel developments.

“Retailers have been given until January 2019 to discontinue the supply of plastic straws, and in 2018, North Island won gold at the African Responsible Tourism awards, while Denis Island is on track to become Seychelles’ most green and sustainable island, having recently implemented the first of a four-phase photovoltaic solar power system to reduce dependency on fossil fuels.”

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#4 Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda Rwanda banned the use of plastic bags in 2006, and it’s not every day that you can trek into the jungle and get within a few feet of an endangered species, says Lauren Melnick, travel blogger of Wanderlust Movement.

“Currently, Volcanoes National Park is up for a sustainable reward at ITB Berlin, and the government has decided to limit the number of visitors to a maximum of eight permits per gorilla group each day to reduce stress for the apes and create a more sustainable activity. Furthermore, part of the revenue collected from tourists goes to the local communities surrounding the park.

“Gorillas in Rwanda are just the tip of what this country offers in terms of adventure. Hike the famous Congo Nile Trail, visit the 65-million-yearold Musanze caves or ditch the overland safari and meander down the Lake Kivu, past the impressive scenery, wildlife and traditional fishing boats.”

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#5 A cruise through the Antarctic If you’re looking for an off the grid destination for 2019, look no further than the Antarctic, says Natalia Rosa, Director of Big Ambitions, travel marketing specialists based in South Africa.

“Travelling to the Antarctic with Hurtigruten was like going back to school and learning how my footprint impacts on places that seem so far away.

“The first step to sustainable travel is to arm yourself with knowledge and think about one or two practical things you could change to help the people, creatures and places you’re likely to meet on your travels, as well as your lifestyle at home because it often still impacts on them even though you may be thousands of miles away.”

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Pic credit - Madi a Thavha on the Ribola Art Route

#6 Ribola Art Route, Limpopo, South Africa In terms of the transformation of our industry, the Ribola Art Route in Limpopo is one of the most exciting sustainable tourism developments for 2019, says Louise de Waal, founder of Green Girls in Africa, a sustainable blog that started in South Africa.

“This vibrant art route offers authentic and creative experiences to its visitors while giving young inspiring artists and entrepreneurs the chance to self-sustainability through their own unique art forms. It also keeps the African tradition of storytelling alive through for example sculptures of scrap metal and wood, indigenous music and dance.

“The Ribola Art Route is a true melting pot of Tsonga, Venda and Shangaan cultures. Zesty, interactive and sustainable at its core. Remember to #LoveLimpopo,” she adds. responsible traveller 97

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#7 The Lost City of Teyuna, Columbia The ancient Lost City of Teyuna in Colombia’s Sierra Nevada region has long captured the imagination of travellers seeking offthe-beaten-track trekking adventures, says Jane Davidson, Director of Development Promotions.

“G Adventures and their non-profit partner, Planeterra, have partnered with the Lost City’s indigenous Wiwa community to enable travellers to explore this previously undiscovered route in 2019, and to learn more about this remarkable indigenous village that is opening its doors to visitors for the very first time.

“G Adventures has also recently become ChildSafe certified, which complements their current good practice guidelines for protecting wildlife, and indigenous people and cultures, while safeguarding children’s well-being across its global operations.”

With responsible travel on the rise, everyday travellers are fast becoming advocates for raising awareness on the importance of preserving the world’s natural resources. If you’re all set to be the change you want to see next year, align yourself with meaningful travel brands, and keep a look out for global destinations driving this trend forward throughout the year. •

words - Chelsey Hale / pics supplied

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VANISHING WISDOM

“Has modern man lost the most critical wisdom of all, that being the wisdom of survival?” words - Clive Horlock / pics - Get Real Africa

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How old he was no-one knew as the only document in Madala’s possession was a clinic card on which his date of birth was registered as 19XX. Madala, an elderly Bushman, had been employed on a Botswana farm adjoining the Central Kalahari Game Reserve until he was dismissed for deserting his post, which it transpired, was to try and find his family.

Whilst working on the farm he had been burying his monthly wages as there was no use for money in his life. Three months after his dismissal he returned to the farm to speak to the farm owner about the money which had been stolen during his absence.

Nothing about this story seems noteworthy until certain details become available.

To find his family and return to the farm Madala had walked a distance in excess of 500 km, across the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, in less than six weeks. Those who know the Kalahari will know that it as a flat, sandy expanse with little or no geographic features to use as landmarks, sparse vegetation and no surface water.

He completed this walk during the months known as the suicide months in southern Africa when the land is scorched by high temperatures and life comes to a standstill for much of the day.

He walked carrying only his small steenbok skin bag and his survival tools, navigating his way to his family and then back to the farm.

How did he know where to find his family as he had had no contact with them since they had been removed to a resettlement camp?

Do Bushmen have some sort of ‘built-in GPS mechanism’ that they use to navigate?

What did he eat? What did he drink? How did an old man survive the intense heat, cold nights and the many dangers on his own?

These are some of the many mysteries, concerning Bushman capabilities, which modern man is unable to understand.

Added to this story are other thought provoking facts.

Madala had not been told when the farmer, who infrequently visited the farm, was going to visit, but on the afternoon that Madala appeared he told the farm staff that the farmer would be ‘arriving that evening’. How did he know this without being told and whilst having no conventional communication with the outside world? responsible traveller 101

Furthermore, Madala had told the farmer that he knew who had stolen his money and on his return to his hometown the farmer contacted the accused, who in a state of fear, returned all the money even before being questioned?

It is stories such as this about the ‘First People of Africa’ that captured my imagination and together with their legendary knowledge of the African bush, inspired me to find out more, resulting in the establishment of a relationship with an amazing Bushman clan.

My ongoing research revealed that Bushman society is now considered by anthropologists to be the most successful in history as they had not only survived but thrived in the wilderness for more than 100 000 years.

Whilst the hunter-gatherer culture is considered to be the most sustainable of human cultures, the history of the Kalahari Bushmen is possibly the most interesting of all as not only are they the oldest surviving culture on earth but survival in the Central Kalahari is probably as testing as any other due to the harshness of the conditions and the limited resources available for much of each year.

I became curious to understand what factors had enabled the extraordinary survival of the Bushman, or San people?

These factors needed to extend beyond merely finding food to include the maintenance of physical, mental and spiritual wellbeing together with the development of a deep understanding of human nature and the challenges to sustaining a stable society.

Whilst most people accept that the Bushman knowledge of nature, including plants, wildlife, seasons, weather, and similar is unparalleled, to actually observe Bushmen operating in their natural environment exceeds expectations. As sparse and as bleak as the Kalahari vegetation may appear, the Bushmen somehow managed to convert it into an adequate pantry and pharmacy.

The Bushman plant diet was supplemented by meat obtained through hunting and trapping.

Once again this required and resulted in the Bushman acquiring an exceptional knowledge of animals and birds. Part of this knowledge and acquired skill is their uncanny tracking ability.

That the Bushmen suffered incredible hardship is undeniable as many died of thirst and starvation but ironically this struggle contributed to their success as they developed both physical and psychological solutions to manage this hardship. Over tens of thousands of years they managed to find a use for most of the plants in their environment believing that ‘the creator provided us with all that was necessary to survive’.

On one of my first walks with Bushman I asked them to identify a particular antelope spoor.

The spoor was not only identified but after tracking the animal for a short distance I was also told the animal’s sex, age and the age of the spoor. Together with this information the Bushmen re-enacted the movements which had created the tracks and signs produced by a small group of Gemsbok, as clearly as if they had seen video footage thereof.

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‘Protection of the environment was a Bushman imperative and there was a clear understanding of the need to live according to natures laws for human life to the sustainable into the future...’

Successful hunting and foraging was obviously required for the Bushman to achieve the level of physical health required to live in a hostile Kalahari, but this alone would not have sufficed.

Firstly, as food was scarce, an understanding was required that energy could not be expended unnecessarily. This was probably the reason for the behavioural psychology of the Bushman to be developed around the word ‘necessity’. In terms of food, any person consuming more than necessary was considered greedy, and ‘greed’ was unacceptable in the Bushmen culture.

Foraging or hunting more than necessary would also create surplus to requirements and surplus was avoided by the Bushman for two responsible traveller 103

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reasons. Firstly, it would place unnecessary demands on the environment, and secondly persons accumulating a surplus would threaten the social harmony of their community or band by creating inequality.

aggressive and wise (knowledgeable). Sharing gifts was therefore very much part of their culture and this process was also used to cement relationships between individuals and between bands.

Protection of the environment was a Bushman imperative and there was a clear understanding of the need to live according to natures laws for human life to be sustainable into the future.

Humour was also considered to be an important human quality and as a result ‘joking relationships’ exist between clan members, who were not immediate family, and laughter was ever present. Love was however considered to be the ultimate binding force necessary to maintain successful human relationships, and the most powerful force in the universe, whilst ego was considered to be an evil opposing force.

The ‘one third rule’ is one of the ways in which they actively practiced this belief. This habit required that no more than one third of any natural resource/food should be harvested at any one time regardless of the level of hunger.

The remainder needed to be left for other people, animals or for another time. Similarly, for any animal that was hunted, no part of the animal was wasted to prevent against overhunting and the wasting of the Earth’s resources.

The Bushman also believed that their survival depended on the strength and stability of their community as it was understood that an individual could never survive in the Kalahari. To achieve maximum social cohesion the Bushman developed an egalitarian way of life where even men and women were considered equals.

Individuals accumulating surpluses would threaten this equality and create jealousy.

Such individuals would also be likely to develop feelings of superiority and power and this, together with jealousy, would threaten community stability.

Power was thus considered to be an evil and associated with Khwemkjima’a (man-not-is), or inhuman behaviour. To avoid unequal possessions the Bushman only accumulated items which were considered to be essential for survival and shared these items equally with all members of their band. There was therefore no possibility of having ‘haves’ and ‘have-nots’ in their society.

“The only possessions a person needs is what one can carry!”

To further avoid feelings of superiority, power and jealousy the Bushman never praised any individual as this would fuel the ego. Even a good hunter, always a very respected member of any band, would have his ego ‘squashed’ in a number of ways including one known as ‘Insulting the meat’.

To be human to the Bushman meant being a person who was kind, generous, non-

“The survival instinct of the Bushman told them that there was nothing worth protecting more than the natural world and being human!”

A further force exists in the Bushman spiritual world and this force they refer to as the ‘life force’, which they call N/lom. This is the force, or energy, which they believe links all forms of life.

Attending a Bushmen dance is always a special experience particularly if given some insight into what is actually happening.

For example, during the healing dance, a spiritually connected dancer is able to reach a state ‘of raised sensory awareness, or elevated level of consciousness’ (not trance as many believe), during which time he is able to access N/lom and affect healing. Healers describe their healing power as a force, or energy, emanating from the Creator described as the ‘transmission of God’s Love’, which passes through the healer to enable healing. [Ref -The Bushmen Way] This ‘heightened level of consciousness’ is not one which can be understood by the uninitiated, including myself, but there is evidence of non-verbal communication taking place during this state which could explain how they can ‘know the unknown’.

It could also maybe explain certain Bushman capabilities such as the ‘merging of minds’ with an animal whilst being tracked. This could explain their uncanny tracking ability to follow a track even when the track ‘disappears’.

Bushmen basically subscribe to a belief in the ‘oneness’ of the universe in which all life in the universe is connected, where man has no primacy over other life-forms and where ‘what happens to one affects all’.

If privileged enough to ever interact with Bushmen, who are still connected with their responsible traveller 105

original culture, one soon realises that there is something exceptional about them, and that it is probably their sense of humanity.

Although susceptible to all human faults and emotions, often resulting in disagreements and squabbles, there is generally a prevailing sense of wellbeing and happiness within a clan despite the hardship they have endured … and laughter is ever present.

Contributing to their happiness is their strong connectivity to the inner self, community and the natural world. Being mindful in the absence of ego allows them time for true reflection and discovery of the inner self.

As mentioned previously, survival depended on strong community structures and as many psychologists believe that ‘the purpose 106 responsible traveller

of life is to seek happiness’. Many African cultures believe that this is best achieved by serving community. Being recognised by the community, and a sense of belonging, contributes significantly to any human’s sense of wellbeing and happiness.

Mental Health practitioners are today advising ‘to let nature in to strengthen your wellbeing’.

This fact the Bushman appeared to understand and practice long ago.

Although modern teaching suggests that happiness is dependent on wealth, status and possessions, the Bushmen achieved happiness by avoiding these and seemed to believe that happiness was more dependent on having satisfying emotional relationships with other humans.

The Get Real Africa concept was introduced to selected Botswana Tour Operators by agent and tour leader Clive Horlock, and together they have developed this unique and authentic African adventure Clive obtained a BSc degree from the University of Natal in Durban but spent most of his life living in rural areas, where his exposure to Africa’s wilderness, rich fauna and flora and indigenous cultures allowed him to develop a lasting passion for so much that can only be found in Africa.

His motivation to develop the “Get Real” African experience is driven by his desire to offer others the opportunity to experience that which is denied to them in an industrialized society. He believes that for many, the experience will be life changing.

He further believes that tourism provides the best opportunity for the economic sustainability of many African countries, which in turn is dependent upon the protection of their rich wildlife heritage, cultures and the preservation of their unique places.

Quite simply, the futures of Botswana’s people and wildlife are inextricably linked; Clive wants to expose visitors to the best of both to provide a true African experience – and hopefully contribute to a better future for both its people and wildlife.

A further contribution to Bushman wellbeing in the past was the relative ‘absence of fear’ they enjoyed until the arrival of the Bantu tribes and Europeans in Southern Africa.

The Bushmen explain that until then fear was an unknown as they did not fear their natural world and had no need to fear their fellow man. The Bushmen generally resolved conflict through dialogue and were possibly the only culture that never needed to engage in wars.

From the onset of the Neolithic period and the emergence of a patriarchal society man has used fear to exploit his fellow man, be it through politics, religion or fear mongering by powerful corporates. The result is a modern society ruled by fear and suffering from the resultant stresses.

Fear of having no money would also not have been applicable to Bushmen in the past.

Readers of this article will hopefully now be better informed about the aspects of the San culture which contributed to their amazing survival.

Is it possible that we can we draw on some of their survival philosophies to improve our chances of survival and find happiness?

Can an improved understanding and appreciation of their culture also motivate us to protect these few remaining harmless people?

What other wisdom could these marginalised people perhaps have to share with us before their culture vanishes? •

www.getrealafrica.com responsible traveller 107

“Take Only Pictures...

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orona and professional big wave surfer, Frank Solomon have joined forces for one very important mission this summer: to tackle the marine plastic pollution problem destroying our waters. The Corona Coastal Clean-up embarked on a trip from Durban to Cape Town earlier this month to educate communities and drive awareness around eco-innovation to clean-up the beaches and protect the oceans along South Africa’s coastline.

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Leave Only Footprints” A major global issue, most of the world’s plastic isn’t recycled and once in the sea it is swept up by currents and reaches every corner of the planet.

South Africa’s coastline stretches more than 2 500 kilometres from the desert border with Namibia on the west to the border with Mozambique on the east. At first sight, our oceans appear pristine but they are fast

becoming the biggest dumping site on earth.

South Africa is ranked as one of the top 20 worst polluters of plastics in the oceans, globally. It is said that every minute, one garbage truck of plastic is dumped into the South African oceans.

Environmental groups say if nothing changes by 2050, there will be more plastic in the oceans than fish by weight. responsible traveller 109

Recent studies by the World Wildlife Fund indicates that out of the top 20 offenders, South Africa is the 11th worst in the world when it comes to releasing plastic waste into the sea (higher than India and Brazil). In addition, it is indicated that 94% of all beach litter in South Africa is made from plastic.

“This calls for a need to not only provide sustainable solutions, but to educate communities that the collective actions of many people can bring about tremendous change,” comments Sifiso Pule, Corona marketing manager. “This is a cause that we’re extremely passionate about. Corona is a brand that celebrates a life lived outdoors and calls the beach and the oceans home, and it is committed to protecting its homeland.”

Pule says that Frank Solomon was an obvious choice when it came to choosing a partner for this initiative. “He runs his own surf school in Hout Bay where he teaches and educates the local community about plastic pollution and awareness through surfing. Frank is always on a mission to protect our ocean and to drive eco-innovation around the world. Who better to collaborate with us on this project than him?”

Over the past few weeks, Solomon set out to visit various NGO’s, marine biologists, shark specialists and other local experts that fight for our oceans. These local experts have shared with Solomon the shocking effects of how marine pollution is affecting our coastline’s natural beauty and have shared some sustainable solutions to tackle this major problem.

“One of the big problems is public awareness,” says Solomon. “People are often overwhelmed by the problem but if every one of us takes responsibility, by even picking up one piece of litter a day, every day, just think about the difference it would make. Our aim is to explore the issues and fight for change.”

Day 1 Solomon kicked off his tour on 7 November in KZN, at the River interception where he met up with Cameron Service from the Umgeni Litterboom Project to discuss a litter catchment system designed to collect rubbish in the three rivers of Durban (Umhlanga, Umgeni and the Durban harbour) before reaching the ocean. Solomon visited one of the rivers with Cameron where they conducted an organised riverbed clean-up with the local community.

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Plastic pollution on Durban’s Umgeni River

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‘People are often overwhelmed by the problem but if every one of us takes responsibility, by even picking up one piece of litter a day, every day, just think about the difference it would make...’

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Day 2 On the second leg of the Corona Coastal Cleanup tour Frank was joined by former competitive South African pool swimmer, Sarah Ferguson.

Frank and Sarah got together down the South Coast to talk plastic while they enjoyed an adrenaline-fueled free dive surrounded by sharks. Sarah, an environmental activist on a mission to highlight the issue of marine plastic pollution, earlier this year made headlines when she completed a 100km open ocean adventure. This feat of athletic endurance took place from Ponta Dobela in Mozambique to Sodwana Bay in just six days.

Ferguson commented on the issue of ocean pollution, “The issue of plastic pollution is a global one. The marine animals I was privileged to swim among are essential for our ecosystem.

They do not have a voice to speak out on the negative effects of human ignorance and waste and I am choosing to use my voice to advocate on their behalf. We are destroying the planet we are called to look after. It is not too late to change but if we do not change our behaviour today, the next generation may not have the privilege of encountering marine life like I have been blessed to encounter,” she said.

Day 3 & 4 The Corona Coastal Clean-up then moved on to Mdumbi, Transkei where Frank explored the topic of eco-tourism and sustainably sourced seafood, with two of the shareholders of the Mdumbi Backpackers, Johan and Sibongile. As a community-driven incentive, the backpackers strives to promote involvement in sustainable eco-tourism. After roaming the shoreline, gathering oysters Frank removed a huge ‘ghost net’ from the rocks as well as an assortment of plastic.

Frank recalls his experience, “For a community that is so closely connected with the natural world around them, the state of the environment is critical to their way of life.

Whether it be for commercial or subsistencebased needs, the ocean provides a bounty for us all, as long as it is respected and protected.

Even here the scourge of plastic infiltrates the seemingly pristine landscape, littering the shore and surrounding communities.”

Day 5 The Corona Coastal Cleanup Tour then moved on to East London, to Nahoon Point Nature Reserve. Dubbed one of the most aesthetically pleasing coastal reserves in the

country, Nahoon Point is a South African gem with paleoanthropological significance. Frank met up with Dean Dean Knox, the founder of Jonginenge, a grassroots programme helping to instil a sense of responsibility toward being stewards for the ocean. This NGO combines educational initiatives with the landscape to inspire the youth to take action where the environment is concerned.

The Beach Tour continued through a few more stops, including Jeffreys Bay, Umkomaas, Wilderness, Gansbaai, and ended off in Cape Town on 17 November where a beach clean-up was conducted at Milnerton beach.

Day 11 & 12 In Gansbaai, Frank met up with Alison Towner a world-renowned marine biologist and white shark scientist from Marine Dynamics. Alison graduated from UK’S Bangor University in 2006 with a BSc Hons degree in Marine biology. After working in the Red Sea and Greek Islands as a PADI instructor, she joined the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, South Africa, in January 2007 and has remained on site ever since.

Historically marine conservation has been largely neglected, creating a void of peerreviewed and scientifically approved information. This has created a niche were new exciting and ongoing research aims to find out more about marine species and the ecosystems in which they live.

And this is exactly what Marine Dynamics and Dyer Island Conservation Trust aim to do - they strive to educate the masses about the trends, traits and troubles of the endangered great white shark.

Frank concluded the tour at home in Cape Town last week. He put out a poll on his social media platforms to ask fans and followers which beach is the worst polluted in Cape Town, and Milnerton beach was undoubtedly ranked as the worst.

In conclusion, Frank comments, “Beach cleanups aren’t going to resolve this issue, but spreading awareness will. Taking accountability for our choices will make a huge difference.

Make conscious decisions don’t buy any product in single-use plastic, don’t use plastic straws, purchase reusable coffee cups. Together, we can make a difference.” •

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

A good news story for lion conservation

More than 180 years ago, the Great Karoo was roamed by the majestic Cape lion – a particularly magnificent black-maned subspecies. Wiped out by hunters, their relatives are being welcomed back to Samara Private Game Reserve near Graaff-Reinet thanks to an ambitious re-introduction project.

Samara is now home to a founder pride of lions as part of a project to return the Karoo to the state of astounding biodiversity it once enjoyed. Their presence on the reserve will help to restore a once thriving ecosystem.

The move is a significant one for several reasons. For a start, there is a pressing need for conservation initiatives targeting lions: the species has dwindled by 43% in the past 20 years, so that current lion populations are estimated at between 20 000 and 30 000. In South Africa, there are just 3 000 wild lions.

Threats to the species include conflict with humans, depletion of their prey base due to habitat loss and the bushmeat trade, and the illegal trade in lion bones for traditional medicine in the Far East. In South Africa, the greatest challenge is posed by the ‘canned lion’ industry, where cubs are bred in captivity, often hand-reared, only to later be shot by trophy hunters in small enclosures. These lions have no conservation value. This emphasises the need to create well-managed meta-populations – in other words, spatially separate groups that allow for translocations to ensure genetic diversity and to establish founder populations in areas where lions once thrived, but have since been wiped out. Samara is a case in point. Historical records indicate that the last wild lion in the area was seen in 1840.

From the reserve’s perspective, the lions’ return marks a significant milestone.

Not only does it establish Samara as a Big Five game reserve, the first in the Great Karoo, but it also advances the vision of Samara founders Mark and Sarah Tompkins: to transform the area into a fully-restored and functional Great Karoo ecosystem. Says Sarah, “The land on which Samara was established 21 years ago is made up of 11 old livestock farms in one of the world’s 36 biodiversity hotspots. Already, much has been done to return this land to its former state: vegetation communities have improved significantly; antelope species have been re-introduced and the first wild cheetah made its return to the area after 130 years in 2004. More recently, the re-introduction of elephants, including two large bulls, has restored megaherbivore ecosystem processes.”

The new lion population means that the ecosystem has an apex predator, and positions Samara one step closer to achieving its ultimate goal of establishing a series of ecological corridors and public-private partnerships which will see the region become South Africa’s third largest protected area.

Sarah notes that, as a further advantage, the introduction of lions has positive implications for the community at large. It improves the reserve’s ability to make a contribution to sustainable responsible eco-tourism in the area, which in turn leads to job creation. Added to this, it generates additional skills development opportunities at the SA College for Tourism Tracker Academy, which trains 16 young individuals per year in the art of tracking and is based at Samara.

“This is a monumental moment; not just for us at Samara, but also for the greater South African conservation community,” Sarah concludes.

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Lionesses drinking at Samara - pic credit Marnus Ochse

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What’s news...

Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge Launches Its Solar Power Plant Serena Hotels and Mettle Solar OFGEN have officially opened “Kenya’s First Fully Solar powered Lodge”. Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge located in Tsavo West National Park implemented a fully-fledged solar power plant to provide for its entire power requirements and enhance environmental sustainability.

The solar power plant is installed under a lease arrangement and produces 307kWp utilizing SMA Solar off-grid technology with 670kWh of usable lead acid battery storage, with the capacity to supply Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge’s total energy requirements during normal weather conditions. During adverse weather, additional energy needs are met using synchronised diesel generators which were previously the main source of energy before the commissioning of the solar plant in July 2017.

Mr. Francois Van Themaat, Managing Director, Mettle Solar OFGEN says, “This is among one of our first projects in the hospitality industry. It is a big win for Kenya to get a ground breaking project like this, up and running. This took the effort of our researchers, engineers, suppliers and the Government of Kenya and we look forward to working with Serena Hotels for more ground-breaking projects.”

Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge, in October 2018 won the Special Award; “Extraordinary Business Case and CSR”, at the official Global Best Practice Awards 2018 ceremony in Milan, Italy. Kilaguni Serena won this award for using eco-friendly practices in providing professional textile care through sustainable and energy efficient laundry services as a result of the Solar Power Plant.

Incorporating historic energy data insights to our business strategy is one of the key drivers that enabled our journey from the use of fossil based energy to renewable and effective energy sources such as the installation of the solar power plant.

Mr. Mahmud Jan Mohamed, Managing Director, Serena Hotels says, “The Company continues to focus on innovative programs that respond to the needs of the environment, economy and communities within which it operates – the fundamental tenets of Sustainability”. He further added, “The demand from eco-travelers is growing and Serena continues to adapt its business best practices model to meet the ecological travel experiences and expectations of today’s guest. The hotel sector is energy-intensive 118 responsible traveller

and despite being remotely located in the park; we have successfully managed to use a cleanrenewable source of energy to fully run the lodge operations.”

The off-grid solar system by Mettle Solar OFGEN has been implemented in two properties; Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge that has the very first Tesla Inverter/Battery System in Kenya and the largest battery system in East Africa, while Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge’s solar plant is recognized as Kenya’s largest Solar PV System on tracker. Additionally, the firms commissioned two hybrid projects in early February 2018 at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp and Sweetwaters Serena Camp. In the years to come, these systems will enable Serena Hotels to make major strides in decreasing its operational costs and carbon foot print thus contributing to a healthier environment now and for our next generations.

All Serena’s programs are aligned to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) set out by the United Nation Development Program.

Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge solar power plant particularly aligns to “SDG 13 Climate Action” with the aim of fighting climate change and its effects to the environment.

According to the solar power plant data records, 467 tons of carbon dioxide has been avoided since the last 15 months of installation. To extract this carbon dioxide from the environment naturally within 10 years 37,399 trees need to be planted. The solar power plants complement the Serena East Africa tree planting initiative that has taken place for over two decades. •

www.serenahotels.com

What’s news...

KLM taking care of People and Planet KLM, the world’s oldest airline still operating under its own name, celebrates 80 years since the first flight from Amsterdam to Johannesburg.

Having been faced with many firsts and challenges throughout the years, in the recent past Corporate Social Responsibility and operating sustainably have become key.

Taking care is a foundation of its business and one which is making a significant difference to both the lives of people and the future of our planet. While the impact of global warming was still being debated, KLM had already begun testing biofuels on commercial flights. As a founding partner of SkyNRG, KLM introduced the first corporate biofuel programme. Employees pay a fee to bridge the difference between the price of traditional fuel and sustainable biofuel.

KLM uses that fee to purchase renewable biofuel.

“KLM, and with it the entire Air France-KLM Group takes its responsibility very seriously,” says Wouter Vermeulen, GM of AF-KLM Southern Africa. “This is borne out by the fact that together with Air France we have proudly topped the Dow Jones Sustainability Index in our sector for the past several years,” he adds.

“We are exceptionally aware that our business operations have an impact on the environment and on society too, and we look for the best solutions to mitigate this impact, often joining

forces with organisations across the world to help us lead the way forward when it comes to operating as sustainably as possible,” says Vermeulen.

KLM recycles onboard waste where possible; has a sustainable catering policy for its onboard meal service and focuses on using responsibly sourced ingredients. Even old uniforms are recycled using the fibre obtained in them to make carpets for its World Business Class cabins.

In South Africa KLM has been lending support to the Cyril Rhamaphosa Foundation’s AdoptA-School initiative as well as the Water for Cape Town project. It has also become involved in the Vision 4 Change programme which donates spectacles to underprivileged children.

Internationally, KLM also launched Wings of Support which supports 24,866 children globally and is involved in various conservation programmes across Africa.

“What we do at KLM Takes Care is constantly evolving,” explains Vermeulen. “New insights and new technologies emerge every day and enable us to do even more or do what we are already doing even better. And so we grow with the times, making sure that we are always at the cutting edge, and leading by example.” •

www.klm.com

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

NEW HOPE

for threatened cats In celebrateion of International Cheetah Day on 4 December 2018, the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) is thrilled to announce that PwC South Africa has become a valued supporter of our Cheetah Conservation Project.

The EWT launched the Cheetah Conservation Project in 2011, with the aim of increasing Cheetah numbers, and maintaining their welfare and genetic integrity across southern Africa and beyond. Working hand-in-hand with game reserves across the country, we are proud to report that the project has been a great success.

This is thanks to many private and state reserves creating safe space for Cheetah populations.

Human pressures threatening Cheetahs include retaliatory killings due to livestock attacks, snaring, poaching for skins, roadkill, and loss of space due to agriculture and urbanisation. These factors have contributed to the global declines in wild Cheetah populations to the extent that Cheetahs have become extinct in 94% of their historical range in the past 13,000 years. It is hard to believe that this species once roamed as far north as the former Soviet Union, and as far east as Myanmar (Burma).

Almost a quarter of this global decline has taken place in the past 15 years.

In contrast, since the inception of the EWT’s Cheetah Conservation Project, the population of this charismatic cat has grown from 217 wild Cheetahs on 41 reserves, to 361 Cheetahs on 57 reserves. We have also reintroduced Cheetahs to Malawi and the Free State, where they had previously gone extinct. In fact, South Africa and Malawi are the only African countries with increasing Cheetah populations, thanks to these efforts.

James du Preez, PwC Africa’s Clients and Markets Development Leader said, “In line with our purpose of building trust in society and solving important problems, PwC is committed to making a difference where it’s needed most. In sponsoring the EWT’s Cheetah Conservation Project, we’re proud to play a role in contributing to the survival of these beautiful animals on the African continent.”

Thanks to the incredible support of PwC, the EWT looks forward to making even greater strides to help our Cheetahs win the race against extinction. .

www.ewt.org.za

Cheetahs at Samara Private Game Reserve - part of EWT’s Cheetah Conservation Project

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