Responsible Traveller mag - edition 2 - 2019

R E S P O N S I B L E edition 2 – 2019

be the difference

CONSERVATION • marine pollution • fight against rhino poaching • saving endangered species • environmental initiatives

...preserving the future

w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a

The only 5-star cage diving experience in South Africa. More than just a dive, our biologists share their knowledge & adventures on each trip!

Experience the Marine Big Five in their natural environment.

Focused on the protection of African Penguins & sea birds.

Discover & Protect - in partnership with the Dyer Island Conservation Trust.

www.DICT.org.za

Comment

Welcome to another edition of Responsible Traveller.

In this edition we celebrate the heroes of Conservation...

From those conserving our marine species and focusing our attention on marine pollution like the Dyer Island Conservation to those fighting the fight against rhino poaching through raising funds and providing equipment. To those who have made it their life’s work to save species at risk and to bring our attention to them and those committed to reducing, re-using and re-thinking their waste. To those that have involved local communities in their initiatives and thereby made a difference... we salute you all. But it’s not just up to the ‘biggies’ in the conservation to make a difference - each one of us can be a hero in our own small way by being mindful of our consumption, how we deal with waste and how we treat the environment. Whether at home or when we are travelling!!

This edition we take some time out in the KZN MIdlands at Brahman Hills, we head out on a West Coast roadtrip and explore quaint towns, country escapes and learn about our roots with the San. We go on a safari with a difference at Dulini - where Dianne Tipping-Woods and learn about leopards... and then we head to Zanzibar for a glimpse of what this tropical island has to offer.

But as always, the responsibility of being a responsible traveller lies ultimately with the person travelling and the choices they make. It’s about choosing to not waste water, to switch off when you leave the room, to stay, shop, experience and eat local... thereby providing employment and contributing to the local economy. By choosing to have conversations with locals and experiencing the ‘real’ destination, you add value and return home with irreplaceable memories.

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

Tessa

Magazine Information edition 2- 2019 Publisher / Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published quarterly

Cover Image: Preekstoel - West Coast National Park pic - Tessa Buhrmann

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents REGULARS:

Comment 03 Being a Responsible Traveller 05

DESTINATIONS & PLACES TO STAY:

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Brahman Hills... the perfect R&R destination in the KZN Midlands 06 West Coast... quaint & quirky, wild & wonderful 70 Well Spotted - the leopards of Dulini 110 A glimpse of Zanzibar 134

CONSERVATION & ENVIRONMENT: The fight against Rhino Poaching 18 Marine Pollution 26 Reduce, re-use, recycle... RETHINK

Environmentally friendly companies must lead from the top

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Saving Species... 94

TRAVEL: Travel Changes People... People Change the World 58 Tourism News 74 Responsible Tourism 146

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www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

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Brahman Hills

...the perfect R&R destination in the KZN MIdlands

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Words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann responsible traveller 07

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ust getting there is part of the relaxation… coffee stops, sightseeing and quaint country lanes. The rolling hills of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands certainly set the scene for what was to be a wonderfully relaxing weekend at Brahman Hills filled with fabulous food, fun company, roaring log fires and bubbly in the jacuzzi. And oops, I forgot to mention an afternoon of pampering at the Brahman Hills Spa. I left Durban early that morning despite it only being about a two-hour drive – one must have time for a breakfast stop and some exploring!

After taking in the views of Midmar Dam it was coffee stop time at Steampunk Café alongside Thokens Garage just off the road. Its fabulously funky décor pairs well with its perfectly brewed artisan coffee and great eco-ethos (no takeaways coffee cups here, so bring your Eco-Cup

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or just enjoy the comings-and-goings of the service station as you find a seat and enjoy the moment).

Meandering down country lanes is what one does in this neck of the woods… so I meandered to breakfast at Caversham Mill and delicious cheeses at Indezi River Creamery to try a selection of local cheeses. Then it was

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Blue Crane Reserve

onto the N3 for the quickest route to Brahman Hills… the thought of a delicious cappuccino with homemade cookie or welcome glass of bubbly was calling.

Bubbly it was, followed by much laughter and catch-ups over lunch and glass of Chenin at The Windmills Kitchen. The menu is extensive offering everything from authentic Durban curries and yummy Italian pizzas (the flour and tomatoes are imported from Italy) to burgers, pies, salads, great vegan options and the best ice-cream I’ve tasted in ages! The gelato is made fresh daily – you must try the salted caramel, it’s delish.

Brahman Hills is set within the 1,000-hectare Blue Crane Nature Reserve, conveniently located near the N3 and Nottingham Road – easy to get there and marvellous for exploring.

Accommodation is offered as hotel and selfcatering cottages – we stayed at the gorgeous Blue Crane Cottages located within the Reserve, but since our visit, Springholm cottages and B&B, which are nestled around a large dam in the Reserve have been added.

We were in a three-bedroomed cottage, one of the eleven one, two, three and four-bedroomed fully equipped and serviced self catering Cottages. And with the Brahman Hills Café and Windmills Kitchen a comfortable walk away meals are a breeze – which leaves more time for exploring and, yay, no cooking… just what every busy Mom needs!

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I was more than happy to trade in early morning lie-ins for hikes through the rolling hills of the Reserve...

The mist lingered on the hills, slowly lifting as the sun’s first rays began warming the air. Dew drops glistened like jewels on spider webs, tiny flowers peeked through the thick veld grass and a lone heron took flight from the edge of the dam. Zebras glanced in our direction but paid us no heed but a herd of eland, majestic in stature with horns held high, scattered with uncertainty at our approach. Nguni and Brahman cattle watched; their stately forms silhouetted against the misty horizon.

I could feel moisture from the early morning dew penetrating my shoes, but that was ok, as I was in my happy place – especially as our hike detoured past the Windmills Kitchen for a cappuccino!

There is much to fill your days at Brahman Hills.

The energetic can mountain bike along the many tracks and trails through the reserve, the less inclined can just relax on the deck and appreciate the expansive views, curl upon the couch and read a book, or like us, grab a Midlands Meander brochure and head out for a day of exploration.

Lovers of enamelware will delight in the vast choices available at Ismail Wholesale House, an inconspicuous roadside trading store that is a rabbit warren of treasures. Further down the road is The Platform at the old Lions River

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Nguni and Brahman cattle at Brahman Hills - pic: Heather Mason - 2 Summers Click HERE to read Heather’s Brahman Hills blog post responsible traveller 13

Station. An inspiring space filled with beautiful creations by local artisans and creatives – everything from handcrafted furniture – I loved upcycled wine barrel chairs, an assortment of sculptures, from a huge creation carved out of a tree-trunk, beautiful bronze pieces and even handcrafted jewellery and gorgeous leather handbags.

Africans and the world. In addition to being South Africa’s first democratically elected President, Nelson Mandela is acclaimed for his efforts to establish racial, social and political equality in a country that had been ravaged by the Apartheid. It’s a poignant reminder of how far we have come as a country and just how precious our democracy is.

A must see on the KZN Midlands is the Nelson Mandela Capture Site and Museum which commemorates where Nelson Mandela was arrested out, his life, his incarceration and the great strides he made in bringing the inequalities and unfair treatment of the Apartheid era to the consciousness of South

Down a dusty country lane, you will find Ardmore Ceramics. A creative space that takes the craft of pottery to another level. It is the largest pottery studio in South Africa, and all started when Bonnie Ntshalintshali, a young girl who had suffered polio as a child, started an apprenticeship with artist Fèe Halsted on

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Mandela Capture Site

‘It’s a poignant reminder of how far we have come as a country and just how precious our democracy is...’

their farm in Winterton. Bonnies natural ability with sculpture and painting was encouraged and soon she was creating her own pieces that told stories of her mission school education and strong Zulu background.

By combining an aesthetic that is not quite African nor European, Fèe developed the style that has made Ardmore Ceramics internationally renowned - intricately decorated items in a Western ceramic tradition that feature local flora and fauna motifs interspersed with mythological beings. These much sought after ceramics grace the halls of Buckingham Palace, the White House as well as museums and galleries around the world and responsible traveller 15

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would look exceptional in any upmarket home – just be warned, the price tags are justifiably heavy.

These wonderfully creative masterpieces which tell of life, love, nature and even politics, are made on-site in their pottery studio. Take time to watch these incredibly talented local craftsmen and women as they lovingly shape pieces of clay, paint intricate designs to bring these stories to life. I am told that there are about 150 local people employed here – what a wonderful example of uplifting local communities.

A little further afield beyond Nottingham Road is Fort Nottingham. A collection of old buildings that were established in 1856 by the 45th (Nottingham, Sherwood Foresters) Regiment of Foot to protect local farmers from Bushmen and San cattle raids.

History buffs will enjoy the museum, housed in one of the old buildings, which offers displays of artefacts from the San as well as a fascinating insight into the life of early settlers in the Natal Midlands.

And photographers will love the ramshackle and characterful old stone buildings.

No explore is complete without a coffee break. And the Midlands has loads of options. There’s Lineage Coffee in Nottingham Road which offers a choice of freshly roasted and brewed artisanal coffee – their beans ethically sourced with agricultural support given to the local farmers that grow them. And Terbodore Coffee, one of KZN’s most loved coffee brands and home of the famous Great Dane, Sultan.

After all the sightseeing, shopping and caffeine, it was time for some detoxing and relaxation at the Brahman Hills Spa. Nothing like a full body massage with fabulously fragranced essential oils and a soak in a tub full of healing bath salts to complete the relaxation. Add to this bubbly, mani and pedi’s, and we are rested and restored and ready for a night of fine dining and wine pairing.

‘Nothing like a full body massage with fabulously fragranced oils and a soak in a tub of healing bath salts to complete the relaxation...’

Dressed to the nines, we head to 89 on Copper, in the Brahman Hills wine cellar. It’s the perfect spot perfect for romantic dinners and family celebrations, the soft lighting and rich tones add to the ambiance.

Our menu is extensive, and we dine on perfectly plated and absolutely delicious cuisine accompanied by a selection of South Africa’s best wines.

The perfect end to a fabulous weekend of rest and relaxation… my heart is full, and my soul restored.

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Click HERE to read about the eco- and conservation initiatives at Brahman Hills

www.brahmanhills.co.za responsible traveller 17

CONSERVATION NEWS

The fight against

RHINO POACHING 18 responsible traveller

CONSERVATION NEWS

pic - andBeyond Phinda responsible traveller 19

CONSERVATION NEWS The fight against rhino poaching continues Since 2010, there have been a total of 7720 rhinos poached in South Africa. Last year alone, an average of 2 rhinos were poached every day in South Africa and it is in light of these harrowing statistics that Volkswagen Commercial Vehicles has renewed its sponsorship and support of the Wilderness Foundation Africa’s fight against rhino poaching. ‘’The rhino plays a key role in the ecosystem and is also pivotal for our country’s eco-tourism.

South Africa has the biggest concentration of rhino in the world, which we want to protect and preserve for generations to come and it is this reason that Volkswagen Commercial made a decision back in 2011 to support Wilderness Foundation Africa’s anti-poaching activities,” said Andile Dlamini, Head of Volkswagen Group South Africa Communications.

In the last eight years, Volkswagen Commercial Vehicles has supported the initiative through the sponsorship of Amarok pick-ups. The Amaroks have operated in South Africa’s rhino population hot spots in Kwa-Zulu Natal, Mpumalanga, North West, Eastern Cape and Western Cape.

The R2 million annual sponsorship sees six Amaroks being used for on-the-ground protection of rhino populations, rhino and wildlife crime syndicate investigation support, rhino DNA collection, air support for rhino security and rhino monitoring, supporting of K9 units, treating rhino that have survived poaching incidents, education and awareness of the rhino poaching crisis and education of the youth from communities surrounding game reserves.

The Forever Wild Rhino Initiative provides logistical and operational support for conservation and law enforcement agencies responsible for rhino management and security.

It is also involved in raising public awareness of the rhino poaching crisis in South Africa, managing a rhino anti-poaching tip off hotline as well as managing and implementing a rhino horn demand reduction campaign in Vietnam.

This year, Volkswagen Commercial Vehicles will also be supporting Wilderness Foundation Africa’s Rhino Horn Demand Reduction Campaign. This campaign aims to reduce the demand for rhino horn in Vietnam, which is one of the largest end-markets of illegal rhino horn.

Wilderness Foundation Africa has been working with the youth in Vietnam since 2014 and this year 14 Vietnamese youth will be travelling to South Africa to take part in wilderness trails and workshops in Mfolozi Game Reserve.

Additional key activities of the Forever Wild Rhino Initiative include vehicle support, rhino rescue support, dog support, air support, intelligence gathering and specialist support, rhino syndicate investigations and Eastern Cape Rhino DNA collection.

‘’We are proud that for the past eight years, the Amaroks have driven more than one million kilometres protecting South Africa’s rhino population and are proud to continue supporting the important cause,” concluded Dlamini.

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CONSERVATION NEWS Rhinos Without Borders Update: The Next Generation of Rhinos It is hard to believe that nearly 4 years have passed since Rhinos Without Borders first took action on its bold vision of moving 100 rhinos to safety. These initial relocated rhinos were truly pioneers, venturing into habitats roamed by previous generations but sorely depleted of their contemporaries. These first rhino carried with them the hopes and dreams of countless conservationists and local communities. Dreams of rebuilding a population of wild rhinos in areas where their piece of the ecological puzzle had gone missing.

It is with enormous pride for the tireless commitment of the Rhinos Without Borders team, its local wildlife monitors, its collaborators, its story-tellers, and its international community of supporters that we can collectively celebrate the 87 rhino who have been successfully relocated and birthed 28 calves.

These calves represent the future of this wild population of rhino. It is with them that our hope now gains momentum.

In recent months a significant drought has gripped the entire region where Rhinos Without Borders operates. In consult with top wildlife experts, veterinarians, and environmental professionals, Rhinos Without Borders has decided, out of an abundance of caution, to wait to relocate the final 13 rhinos until the habitat conditions improve. Until then we will continue to protect and preserve the newest inhabitants of these ecosystems; the relocated rhino.

Rhinos Without Borders is also proud to share that recently Dr. Markus Hofmeyr was named Best Conservation Practitioner at the 2019 Rhino Conservation Awards. A big congratulations to Dr. Hofmeyr and many thanks for his contributions to Rhinos Without Borders!

And finally, thank you to each of you for joining us in this hopeful conservation story and helping create a bright future for wild rhinos in Africa.

www.rhinoswithoutborders

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CONSERVATION NEWS Van Loveren continues its fight against poaching with its latest release Rhino Run wines Van Loveren Family Vineyards has continued its contribution to nature conservation in South Africa with the release of the latest vintage Rhino Run wines. The range of superb quality wines celebrates this magnificent animal of the African plains and the efforts being made to save it.

“The plight of the rhino has been well-publicised and continues to grow direr every passing day,” says Van Loveren Wines CEO Phillip Retief. “It has mobilised millions of people across the globe to help fight the scourge of poaching.

“As a producer invested in the preservation of our natural heritage, both through responsible farming practices and initiatives wider afield, Van Loveren has long been involved with conservation and continues through Rhino Run.”

The Van Loveren vineyards are situated in the Robertson Wine Valley and have been in the Retief family since 1937. Maker of wines of international repute including Christina Van Loveren and Four Cousins, Van Loveren is known as a producer of award-winning wines that are consistently high in quality and great value.

The Rhino Run range comprises five wines in honour of the white rhino: the Rhino Run Chardonnay 2017, the Rhino Run Chenin Blanc 2018, also pays tribute to the white rhino, the Rhino Run Ian Player 2016 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the Rhino Run Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 and the Rhino Run Pinotage 2017.

The Rhino Run range joins Van Loveren’s distinguished portfolio and is available at most wine purveyors nationwide. The white wines are priced at around R60 a bottle, while the three red wines sell for around R71 a bottle. A sixth wine 22 responsible traveller

completes the range, which further extends Van Loveren’s contribution to nature conservation in South Africa. A limited release collector’s item, The Last One Shiraz 2013 joins the line-up, and what makes this Shiraz extra special is that only 1 215 bottles, selling at R1 215 each, are released.

The significance of this number represents the total number of rhinos poached in 2014. This limited-edition wine is hand bottled, waxed and labelled, featuring the signature of Cellar Master, Bussell Retief, on the label, reaffirming Van Loveren’s support to combat rhino poaching.

Launched under the banner of Honour the Legends, Rhino Run serves not only to highlight the poaching crisis, but also makes a contribution to the esteemed Player Ntombela Foundation as well as other foundations that

have all lost rhinos through poaching, with every bottle sold. The wines are currently available for export, and at international wine shows and exhibitions, thereby creating further awareness locally, nationally and more importantly internationally.

Just over a decade ago the story of successful conservation efforts that brought both black and white rhino species back from the brink of extinction, seemed to be heading for a happy ending. Since 2008 however, an alarming and heart-breaking upswing in poaching has pitched the animals back into a struggle for survival, with almost 8 000 poached for their horns. The Rhino Run range is inspired by the late Dr Ian Player, founder of the Player Ntombela Foundation and the conservationist who dedicated his life and career since the 1960s to lead the efforts to save the rhino.

www.rhinorunwine.co.za

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CONSERVATION NEWS Black Rhino Conservation a Success The WWF Black Rhino Range Expansion Project (BRREP) is one of WWF’s most successful species conservation projects ever. This is welcome news in a time of relentless poaching.

BRREP was established in 2003 by veterinarian and project leader Dr Jacques Flamand. Over the past 16 years it has established 11 black rhino populations in private and community reserves in KwaZulu-Natal, Gauteng and Limpopo. They were created from founder black rhino populations translocated from provincial parks in KwaZuluNatal and the Eastern Cape.

The project is central to the goal of increasing the population growth of black rhinos, which are listed as critically endangered, with only 2 000 left in South Africa. Black rhinos once numbered more than 100 000 across sub-Saharan Africa, but from the 1960s poaching for their horns decimated their numbers to less than 3%.

The WWF Nedbank Green Trust is supporting the next stage of rhino population management at BRREP through a programme that started in 2017 called Black Rhino Conservation Management Through Science-based Support.

‘Through this project 90% of the DNA samples from all the rhinos in the 11 BRREP populations have already been collected,’ says Flamand. ‘This enables us to make informed management decisions about when to swap out dominant males or their offspring, and when new genes need to be brought in to maintain genetic diversity.’ It is also a key tool in rhino horn crimefighting and anti-poaching work.

The DNA samples are taken at BRREP sites whenever black rhinos are immobilised for medical checks, horn removals or translocations. Another four parks managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife have been added to the project for DNA profiling.

Of the DNA samples collected from the 11 BRREP populations, 80% have been profiled so far. The samples are then submitted to RhODIS – (http:// rhodis.co.za) the national rhino-DNA-indexing system for black and white rhinos that was initiated by the Veterinary Genetics Lab at the University of Pretoria.

The genetic samples as well as data gleaned from ongoing monitoring at all the project reserves also offer strong insight into black rhino social associations and reproductive behaviour. Male and female black rhinos mature sexually at six or 24 responsible traveller

seven years old and can live for up to 35 years. ‘We are in the fortunate position where the offspring of the black rhinos in the 11 project populations have reached adulthood, and some offspring can be removed and translocated to form part of a new BRREP population,’ says BRREP project coordinator Ursina Rusch, who has a master’s degree in zoology.

Analysis of black rhino reproductive behaviour was successfully used in November 2018 for a BRREP site that required detailed genetic information to make an informed decision with regard to the live removal of rhinos to maintain genetic diversity. The paternity testing of offspring assisted in identifying the most suitable individuals for live offtake, as well as planning regarding the retention of founder rhinos, particularly the population’s dominant bull.

A black rhino stud book and genetic management plan for each of the BRREP sites are in process and have been reviewed by a number of rhino geneticists with positive feedback. The management plan is the first of its kind for black rhinos.

The & Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve in northern KwaZulu-Natal, spanning almost 30 000 ha, was one of the first range expansion sites for the black rhino programme when it received black rhinos from Hluhluwei–Mfolozi Game Reserve in 2003.

‘It’s been an incredible success story and private game reserves have proved that we can manage and monitor state assets with great success,’ says Phinda Conservation Manager Simon Naylor.

‘A number of calves from the founder population have been born on Phinda and because of the population increase, BRREP has since been able to translocate four black rhino offspring from Phinda to other reserves.’

The WWF Nedbank Green Trust project has also produced a handbook outlining a scientific approach to best-practice rhino management and monitoring approaches in southern Africa, written by wildlife conservation ecologist Dr Dave Balfour with the assistance of a WWF Rhino Programme intern, Natalia Banasiak.

The handbook covers various rhino regions – from the dry, mountainous Kunene region of Namibia to the moist, coastal region of KwaZulu-Natal.

As part of gathering information for the book, a group of experienced rhino reserve managers, conservationists and scientists from South Africa,

Zimbabwe, Namibia, Mozambique, Kenya and Zambia met in March 2018 and shared their extensive knowledge.

‘We greatly appreciate the support of WWF and the WWF Nedbank Green Trust,’ says Naylor. ‘These projects are a win-win for everyone at a time when the world is experiencing rhino poaching fatigue already. We are in a high poaching region and we have to continue the fight. We spend a lot of money on dehorning, notching, intensive security plans, counter-poaching dog units, specialops teams, stringent visitor management and access control, staff biometric systems, constant community collaboration and engagement, and a reward system for information on poachers.

Now we also have the DNA profiling and genetic management plan, which significantly assist us.’

‘Communities are key to the success of anti-rhino

CONSERVATION NEWS

poaching and conservation efforts and we have spent a lot of time engaging the communities in our area and including our communities in education programmes. Two-thirds of Phinda is community-owned – we lease the land from the communities and we constantly meet with the tribal authorities, who play a key role in antipoaching efforts.’

The WWF Nedbank Green Trust strongly supports partnering with communities in conservation and is funding projects under the WWF-SA Wildlife Programme that are working with three communities adjacent to key wildlife areas that have rhino populations in KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo and along the Mozambican border of the Kruger National Park.

www.andbeyond.com

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

MARINE POLLUTION 26 responsible traveller

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Words & pics supplied - Dyer Island Conservation Trust responsible traveller 27

A

CONSERVATION PROFILE

canary in a coal mine is an advanced warning of some danger. The metaphor originates from the times when miners used to carry caged canaries while at work; if there was any methane or carbon monoxide in the mine, the canary would die before the levels of the gas reached those hazardous to humans.

To be aware about plastic pollution is one thing, to be confronted with a dead African penguin, where the cause of death is starvation due to plastic ingestion, emphasises the very hard and depressing reality that we need to pay heed to the klaxon alarm that has been sounding for a while.

The carcass of a young African penguin was found on Grotto Beach in Hermanus and brought to the African Penguin & Seabird Sanctuary to determine the cause of death.

Sr Theanette Staal conducted a necropsy and found that the bird died of starvation caused by plastic ingestion. The ingested plastic caused internal ulcers and inhibited the bird’s feeding capacity. Note the similarity of the plastic piece to the partially digested prawn shell.

Seabirds are particularly vulnerable to ingesting plastics because most species feed at or near the ocean surface. They forage along eddies and oceanic convergence zones – the same areas where marine plastics accumulate. The necropsy was a learning experience for the interns of the Marine Dynamics Academy.

Words - Trudi Malan (Dyer Island Conservation Trust) Penguin necropsy

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• • • • •

Annually approximately 500 billion plastic bags are used worldwide. More than one million bags are used every minute.

A plastic bag has an average “working life” of 15 minutes.

Over the last ten years we have produced more plastic than during the whole of the last century.

What we see floating at the surface is just 5% of the plastic pollution in the ocean - the other 95% lurks below the surface, according to Ocean Conservancy.

More than 8 million tons of plastic is dumped in our oceans every year.

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Storm Water Drain Net Placed In Gansbaai, Minimising Marine Pollution Inspired by a project in Australia, Wilfred Chivell of Marine Dynamics Tours and founder of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, realised the need for a net system over the storm water drain outlets in Gansbaai.

The first identified site was Gansbaai Harbour, an area notorious for plastic pollution and a prime spot to test the efficacy of the net and attachment design. The nets are designed to prevent pollutants and solid waste, carried by

storm water from the local road network, from flowing into the marine environment.

The first net design was sponsored by Marine Dynamics, and project leaders Hennie Otto (Marine Dynamics) and Benjamin Kondokter of the Overstrand Municipality placed the net on World Oceans Day 8 June. It was tested during a rainstorm but tore due to a design flaw in the oyster net used. Wilfred and Hennie then approached Ian Wessels of Wildegans Fishery Storm water drain net - pic: Hennie Otto

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

who kindly donated the sardine purse seine net and stitching work required and this was placed on Plastic Bag Free Day 3 July.

Wilfred had this to say about the project, “We noted the pollution from the storm water drain in the Gansbaai harbour, whilst on a clean-up.

The outlet leads straight to nearby rock pools and into the ocean. The kelp that traps some of the waste makes it difficult to clean and this too is ultimately washed out to sea.

We have been doing cleans up for twenty years and 80% of the waste is plastic. Dyer Island Conservation Trust is the first port of call for marine animal rescues and strandings in the Gansbaai area and we have witnessed first-hand the impact on our marine wildlife. We hope that through this project we can minimise this impact by reducing the amount of waste entering the marine system. Unfortunately, most of the waste will probably not be suitable for recycling, but we will do this where possible. This is a worldwide problem and our dream is to roll this out in the Overstrand and in South Africa.”

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The net will be monitored over the next few months to assess the ‘catch’, by the Dyer Island Conservation Trust team, with the assistance of students at the Marine Dynamics Academy.

The top three items found in the first three ‘catches’ are cigarette butts, microplastics and food wrappers/containers. With 63 storm water outlets in Gansbaai alone, this project will be a long-term collaborative effort with the Overstrand Municipality, with an initial focus on the most problematic areas.

There will be costs in manufacture and ongoing management. Marine Dynamics and the Dyer Island Conservation Trust are committed to this project and have made applications for grant funding. The Trust hopes to turn trash into treasure with art works and educational displays.

The Dyer Island Conservation Trust and the Overstrand Municipality are partners in various project that includes environmental education, beach clean ups, fishing line bins, animal rescue and more.

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Marine Dynamics staff emptying the net - pic: George Podaras (DICT)

First catch from the net - pic: Hennie Otto responsible traveller 31

Fishing Line Bin Recycling Initiative

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Monofilament fishing line is very destructive as it is not biodegradable and is the cause of death for many seabirds and other marine animals. The unique fishing line bin, implemented by the Dyer Island Conservation Trust in 2010, has a key role to play in educating people about marine pollution.

Wilfred Chivell, founder of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, first saw this idea in Florida, USA, and realised the need in South Africa.

Together with the Overstrand Municipality, DICT placed the first twenty bins in strategic areas along the Gansbaai coastline. In time, the project was embraced by WESSA’s Blue Flag beach programme and so the reach along South African’s coastline began. Now with the support of governmental organisations and non-profits, over 300 bins are creating public awareness of the negative impacts of fishing line debris and encouraging fishermen and beach walkers to correctly dispose of line. This is a difficult material to recycle as it is often in various bits and pieces and bulk is required to effectively do anything with it. One recycler uses 30% recycled monofilament in weed eater line.

The material for the bins is sponsored by MacNeil Plastics as arranged by Plastics SA. The International Marine Volunteer (now Marine Dynamics Academy) Programme of DICT’s eco-tourism partner Marine Dynamics is the team that does the assembly and most of the monitoring and cleaning in Gansbaai. All bin GPS positions are taken to create a map of where the bins are in South Africa. The bins can also be used at inland dams and rivers where fishing takes place.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

International Recycling Day...

International Recycling Day was created in 2018 to help recognize, and celebrate, the importance recycling plays in preserving our precious primary resources and securing the future of our planet. The theme of 2019 was ‘Recycling into the Future’ with the aim of driving awareness and pushing the urgency of recycling. Recycling (whether at an industrial level or within schools and home) can save more Carbon Dioxide emissions each year than those generated by the entire aviation industry, while simultaneously protecting the earth’s valuable natural resources.

Recycling Day is used as a catalyst to change the mind-set of governments, businesses, communities and individuals around the world, to see recyclables as a resource and not waste.

Without recycling, all our used and discarded tins, plastic bottles, packing boxes, old clothes, glass bottles and paper cups will contribute to the growing waste mountains, which are either burnt or sent to landfill – never to be used again.

Without recycling, we have no option but to continue stripping the earth of her resources.

We can turn the tide of plastic to a tide of hope if we all can play our part by doing the following: - Minimizing single use plastic items - Using long life shopper bags at supermarkets - Refrain from helium balloons - Participate in local beach clean ups and community clean ups - Spreading the word.

The Dyer Island Conservation Trust’s Environmental Education Programme known as DEEP celebrated recycling day by hosting a Trashion Show at Masakhane Primary School to show that we can turn Trash into Treasure. This show was attended by the community members, Marine Dynamics and Dyer Island Cruises staff and the Masakhane learners and teachers.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

Newspapers have a second life...

Marine Dynamics and the Dyer Island Conservation Trust believe that every day is Mandela Day, but still the team thought it a good idea to share some tea and cake with some special guests.

The Trust’s key project, the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary, started making bags of newspaper a few years ago, but they needed an extra pair of hands. That was when Mariaan Burger, a local Gansbaai resident, stepped in offering her time and energy to the project. Mariaan was encouraged by Trust founder, Wilfred Chivell, to start a ‘production line’ so that the Great White House and any other interested businesses could buy and use these newspaper bags. Now every Tuesday a group of dedicated residents from the Silwerjare service centre for older persons in Blompark, meet to enjoy some time together whilst producing bags of varying sizes. These bags are then purchased for use at the Great White House curio shop and have proved to be quite a hit with guests from all over the world. The extra income from the bags is used for the group outings.

The Silwerjare group enjoyed some tea and cake whilst they placed their brand new project stickers on the bags. The stickers carry the Trust logo and a logo created especially for the project. The stickers were kindly printed by SignFactory (Empangeni), at no cost. Susan Visagie, of the Great White House, stopped in to thank everyone for their time and commitment to the project. “We really hope more businesses in Gansbaai will reduce their use of plastic bags and consider supporting this worthy project,” said Susan.

Special thanks to: Build It Gansbaai and Marie Fourie for discounted prices on materials needed for production.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

Plastic Waste Awareness Jenna Jambeck (University of Georgia) visited the Dyer Island Conservation Trust. Her paper on ‘Plastic waste inputs from land into the ocean’ by Jambeck et al. combined available data on solid waste with a model that uses population density and economic status to estimate the amount of land-based plastic waste entering the ocean. It was calculated that 275 million metric tons (MT) of plastic waste was generated in 192 coastal countries in 2010, with 4.8 to 12.7 million MT entering the ocean. Population size and the quality of waste management systems largely determine which countries contribute the greatest mass of uncaptured waste available to become plastic marine debris. In 2015, a further study estimated that of the plastic waste that had been generated, around 9% had been recycled, 12% was incinerated, and 79% was accumulated in landfills or the natural environment.

WITHOUT WASTE MANAGEMENT INFRASTRUCTURE IMPROVEMENTS, THE CUMULATIVE QUANTITY OF PLASTIC WASTE THAT WILL ENTER THE OCEAN FROM LAND IS PREDICTED TO INCREASE BY AN ORDER OF MAGNITUDE BY 2025.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

www.dict.org.za www.marinedynamics.co.za www.dyerislandcruises.co.za www.marinedynamics.org/academy

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ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS

Reduce Re-Use Recycle...

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ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS

RE-THINK responsible traveller 39

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS &Beyond goes Beyond Plastic Plastic is one of the materials most commonly found polluting the environment and minute traces of it have been found in everything from our drinking water to the seafood that we eat.

A killer of both marine and terrestrial creatures, plastic is a man-made blight on the environment.

Luxury travel company &Beyond has joined the legions of individuals, companies and NGOs that are striving to make a difference by limiting their use of the material. &Beyond’s main method of reducing the use of plastic across its operations is delivered through its bottling plant initiative.

The group has installed 18 water bottling plants across its operations in Africa and South America, reducing the use of plastic water bottles by 615 298. Water bottling plants at each lodge and some central offices reduce the usage of plastic by providing purified water in recyclable glass bottles. In 2015, &Beyond stated its objective for 100% of its lodges to have their own glass bottling plants and to reduce the number of plastic bottles used in the group by 90% by 2020.

Four years later, the company is well on its way to meeting that objective, with 90% of its lodges using glass water bottles, saving 615 298 plastic water bottles per year. Plastic straws have also been removed from &Beyond’s island lodges and

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replaced by paper or metal alternatives, a project that delved deep into the detail at each lodge.

Guest amenities such as shampoo and shower gel also come packaged in refillable glass bottles at all lodges to eliminate the use of plastic.

These successes have not come without their challenges and, due to the remote nature of their operations, the group is often faced with decisions where there is no clear and easy solution. For example, on their East African circuit, they have been forced to choose between recycling plastic bottles and importing glass ones to eradicate the use of plastic. &Beyond’s mobile tented camps in Botswana rely on the company’s water purifying plants in Maun and Kasane to provide them with bottled water in glass containers.

However, logistics and importation restrictions still have to be resolved in order to install water bottling plants at the company’s two mobile camps in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park. With 90% of all lodges now only using glass bottles for water, the challenge is on to find innovative ways of increasing this number even further.

Not content with amending its own policies, &Beyond has also sought to encourage their suppliers to look for more environmentally friendly alternatives. For example, in Botswana

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS air charter company Mack Air has recently introduced the “cool freight” solution, which utilised specially designed containers to keep perishable items fresh while being flown into camp. The initiative has significantly reduced the waste of single use packaging, eliminating the use of approximately 150 cardboard boxes per lodge each month. Similar substitutions are being investigated elsewhere on &Beyond’s lodge circuit, with lodges making every attempt to replace single-use packaging with more durable alternatives.

The extent of plastic pollution is more easily visible at &Beyond’s island lodges than anywhere else. At &Beyond Mnemba Island, staff have introduced an innovative initiative to remove trash from the ocean and keep the island clean. Each morning, a different staff member is nominated to take a beach basket and do a beach clean-up throughout the day.

Frighteningly, the waste collected on this tiny island off the coast of Zanzibar during 2018 added up to a total of 3 000 kg (6 613 lb). &Beyond Benguerra Island also see rubbish washed up on shore, frequently deposited by rivers and streams that run into the ocean. A weekly beach clean-up is conducted around the lodge and once a month the team carries out a larger operation that covers most of the island’s beaches.

&Beyond’s plastic reduction initiative is not limited to its operations in Africa and it’s first South America lodge, &Beyond Vira Vira in Chile’s Lake District, also received its own water bottling plant prior to reopening under the &Beyond brand. Since September 2018, the lodge has been serving still and sparking water in recycled glass bottles and has even introduced reusable metal straws with its cocktails. Other sustainability efforts at &Beyond Vira Vira include the full recycling of grey water, the use of sustainable wood pellets for heating and the reducing of the lodge’s carbon footprint through only purchasing local goods. &Beyond has also sought to make guests more aware of the choices that they make as consumers, introducing the Oceans Without Borders pledge in April 2018. Designed to encourage guests to make more environmentally friendly choices, the pledge was launched at all &beyond lodges, as well as on the company’s website and social media channels. So seriously does the company take it that it also included the pledge on indemnity forms at its three island properties and launched a set departure itinerary that highlights the impact of our daily choices on the health of the world’s oceans.

www.andbeyond.com

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ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS Leading Hospitality Players Adopt a Bluewater Pro Approach Leading names in the South African hospitality industry are enjoying the cost and sustainability benefits of one of the world’s most advanced water purification technologies, utilising the Bluewater Pro water purification unit to produce their own brand sparkling and still mineral water, which they bottle themselves and serve to their guests.

The Bluewater Pro is a potential game-changer for the hospitality industry, as it can dramatically reduce water-related costs and an organisation’s environmental impact, and both Waterford Wine Estate and Khaya Ndlovu Manor House have embraced the technology and what it represents for their establishments.

Lloyd Arnold, Brand Manager for Bluewater, describes how the system works: “The patented Bluewater SuperiorOsmosis™ technology is engineered into Bluewater’s compact point-ofuse Pro water purifier, which can be installed in any professional kitchen or catering service unit.

The unit provides cleaner, healthier water and the chiller, remineraliser and carbonator means that our clients are able to produce commercial-level mineral water for their guests.”

Marketing Manager at Khaya Ndlovu Shannon Rombi is delighted with the impact the Bluewater Pro has had at the prestigious Hoedspruit Manor House, where the Bluewater Pro provides still and sparkling water for guests. “We offer our guests complimentary water in their suites, and if they are in the restaurant area of the lodge they purchase bottles of water… and it is delicious. Our guests are even commenting on how good it tastes.”

The Bluewater Pro enables the wine tasting room at world-famous Waterford Estate in Stellenbosch to provide still and sparkling water using its own reusable branded water bottles.

“Our discerning guests not only compliment us on the quality of our wines but also on the taste of our water. Sustainability is a key focus for us, with 50% of our farm dedicated to that cause. For us to find a solution that allowed us to use our own water, and allowed us to purify and bottle and then serve guests in recyclable glass, was an important decision,” says Waterford Head of Sales and Marketing Damien Joubert-Winn.

Bluewater’s own mission to reduce plastic motivates the development of these technologies, with the use of reusable glass bottles going a long way to reducing the need for single-use plastic.

According to watercalculator.org: “it takes at least twice as much water to produce a plastic water 42 responsible traveller

bottle as the amount of water contained in the bottle.” That’s not even taking into account the harmful nature of plastic once it’s disposed of.

The environmental benefits of using glass over plastic bottles is appreciated by guests at Khaya Ndlovu, Rombi says. “We have had our logo branded on our glass bottles, and we do all our own bottling and capping. Besides not polluting the earth with hundreds of plastic bottles per month, we are saving a huge cost on purchasing water. The new-look bottles are much better, and as the majority of our guests are European, initiatives like this go far in their eyes.”

“We look forward to sharing our innovative water purification solutions with many more restaurants, guesthouses, hotels and wine tasting rooms across South Africa,” says Arnold.

www.bluewatergroup.com

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS City Lodge Hootel Group harnesses the sun The City Lodge Hotel Group (CLHG) is undertaking a large-scale solar project for the group at 25 of its 60 hotels. This follows a successful pilot study at the 118-room Road Lodge Centurion in Pretoria, which has a 50kWp (Kilowatt peak) generation system installed on the roof. The roll-out will result in nearly 4,250 solar panels being installed at 24 hotels in South Africa and one hotel in Namibia, with a combined energy output of approximately 1.45 megawatts of power. The full installation will cost approximately R20-million. The panels have an expected lifespan of 30 years.

The solar installation project will be completed towards the end of 2019 and is one of the most widespread ventures of its kind undertaken by a hotel group in South Africa. Once completed, these solar panels will generate approximately 10% of the entire group’s energy requirements.

Improving energy and water efficiency is a longterm environmental commitment by the group, and since 2011 CLHG has consistently reduced its absolute energy consumption by almost 40%, even while the hotel footprint has grown.

CLHG was a runner-up in the Eskom eta Awards in 2013, an awards programme that recognises exceptional efforts in the efficient use of energy, which in turn benefits the environment.

“We are incredibly proud of the group’s achievements with regards to energy conservation over the years. This is a significant milestone for us as we enter a new era in renewable power generation, and a positive step towards our own business and environmental sustainability,” says Alastair Dooley, chief financial officer at CLHG.

www.clhg.com

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ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS Fairview Wine and Cheese Estate, a shining example of the power of solar The nation’s skewed dependence on traditional power sources has once again come into sharp focus given the energy crisis gripping the nation.

As businesses and South Africans at large come to grips with an unpredictable power supply and the rising cost of electricity, the viability of renewable energy as a dependable source of power has been prioritised. Renewable energy is the answer to a responsible and sustainable future.

Fairview Wine and Cheese Estate has prioritised the power of renewable energy as part of their responsible approach to business. In a prime example of their commitment to change, Emergent Energy, with the support of Absa, has provided a comprehensive solar solution to the Estate in the Western Cape. “With roots in the wine industry dating as far back as the 17th century, Fairview’s ability to produce the very best cheeses for the local and global market is instrumental in us remaining relevant,” said Charles Back, proprietor of Fairview.

Social and environmental responsibility is at the heart of Fairview’s approach to business.

In particular, generating electricity is part of a holistic environmentally responsible model for Fairview. From removing ‘alien’ vegetation and preheating water before entering the boiler to producing its own meat and farming key ingredients for the restaurant, Fairview has seen the broader sustainable picture.

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To this end, a lack of predictability of supply and incredible energy costs are massive risks to our business. No power equates to no cheese and going green was a no-brainer and is already showing results for Fairview,” Back said.

“Being a responsible player in the market is in our DNA. Being energy efficient is one aspect of reforming and improving the agriculture sector. This goes hand-in-hand with land reform, helping emerging farmers, enterprise supplier development and empowering our farm workers.

Fairview is the ultimate template for the entire sector and this is a self-sustaining, pro-South Africa approach. Let’s leave the world in a better state than we found it in,” said Back.

Fairview invested in a system size of 305 kWp and there are 924 solar panels installed which generate an impressive 430 000 kWh of clean energy annually. “The estate has considerably reduced our reliance on the grid. We accrue about 18% of our energy needs from solar.

In essence, we have greater control over the business whilst doing something responsible for the environment. It’s a win-win for all,” he said.

An increase in investment into solar solutions through funding renewable energy solutions for businesses and households has largely been driven by the decreasing costs of technologies, increasing skills and experience within the teams

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS who design and build these installations as well as regulatory certainty and frameworks.

“The integrity of our power supply has once again forced the hand of many players in South Africa’s economy – it is no longer business as usual and a multitude of manufacturers, farmers and industries are being forced to augment their power portfolio to survive,” said Justin Schmidt, Head: Renewable Energy at Retail and Business Bank (RBB SA), Absa Group.

Substantially higher tariffs (the price you pay for units of electricity) over the last decade and the reduction in costs and increase in life spans of batteries, coupled with a strong investment into lithium ion technology, have all contributed to the appeal of solar.

“Businesses typically look at solar as purely an investment decision. They look at how long the system takes to pay itself off, what the returns on investment are and whether the cost of power produced is cheaper than the power they are currently purchasing. Once customers see a viable investment case, they look to us for funding, and whether this funding can be structured in a way that ensures they are paying less on their loan over time than they would have

paid for energy. This then allows the investment into solar to yield positive impacts on their business cash flow over time,” notes Schmidt.

Emergent Energy, a leading solar photovoltaic (PV) company with the most experience in commercial scale installations and 120+ projects completed nationwide and Absa have been collaborating to make solar more accessible.

“Assisting South African businesses in leveraging further their solar PV project benefits is a top priority for us,” says Robert Timmis, Emergent Energy’s Chief Executive Officer.

“When we first met with Charles Back back in 2015, little did we know that this was going to be the beginning of an amazing four-year journey with Fairview Wine & Cheese. Since then, trust and clarity have been the foundations of our relationship and have enabled us to complete the 305 kWp solar PV system at the Fairview Cheese factory in Paarl. Coupled with their diesel generator, the PV system will be generating an average of 430 000 kWh of clean energy yearly for the next twenty years. Thank you to the Fairview team and Absa Group for making this adventure possible,” Timmis adds.

www.fairview.co.za

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ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS Emirates Commits To Reducing Single-Use Plastic On Board Emirates has made a network-wide commitment to reduce single-use plastics on board its aircraft.

As of June 1st, eco-friendly paper straws have been introduced and all Emirates flights will soon be plastic straw-free.

The airline has been working on various longterm sustainability initiatives. In addition to plastic straws, plastic swizzle sticks and stirrers will also be replaced with eco-friendly alternatives by the end of the year. From August, plastic bags used for Inflight Retail purchases will also be replaced with paper bags. These initiatives will remove an estimated 81.7 million single-use plastic items from landfill each year.

Trials have been conducted on Emirates flights to explore various recycling initiatives on board and Emirates staff and cabin crew constantly give feedback and suggestions on other environmentally friendly ideas. As part

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of its long-term vision and fuelled by a cabin crew member’s suggestion, the airline has been segregating large plastic bottles on board to be recycled in Dubai and the rest of the world. This diverts an estimated 3 tonnes or about 150,000 plastic bottles from landfill in Dubai each month.

A full review of the plastics on board has been conducted and over the next few months, the airline will gradually implement other initiatives to tackle plastic waste.

The initiatives are part of the airline’s ongoing sustainability efforts. In 2017, Emirates introduced ecoTHREAD™ blankets made from recycled plastic bottles for its Economy Class cabin. Each blanket is made from 28 recycled plastic bottles and by the end of this year, Emirates would have saved 88 million plastic bottles from landfill from this initiative alone.

www.emirates.com/environment

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS The Solar Bread Box – enabling energy access and developing communities Despite being ranked as the eighth most developed country in Africa in the United Nations Development Programme’s annual report in 2018, several challenges still plague South Africa. The need for employment, access to energy, economic activity, community development and access to affordable essential foods is still very prominent in both rural and urban areas.

While working on a project to empower a remote village in the Northern part of South Africa through enabling energy access and community development from locally available renewable energy sources, Profs Johan Meyer and Sune von Solms of the University of Johannesburg’s School of Electrical and Electronic Engineering Sciences conceptualised the Solar Bread Box – a first for commercial sized photovoltaic solar bakeries.

Boasting the same equipment and baking cycle as a standard grid tied commercial bakery, the Solar Bread Box eliminates the dependence, purchase and monthly bills associated with grid tied electricity. Not only that, but the bakery is also an instantaneous employment and skills development opportunity for youths, a tool for economic stimuli and an avenue for an essential product.

Low income households in rural and urban communities where there is no grid connection; communities where the residents cannot afford

electricity; or communities where there are underlying social issues regarding the access and distribution of electrical power consider bread an every day staple or meal. The affordability and access of wholesome, fresh bread is essential in such areas.

Prof Meyer clarified that the Solar Bread Box should not be confused with other solar solutions such as concentrated solar power or solar thermal technologies that are used for heating and cooling.

He explained that the Solar Bread Box uses a photovoltaic system, which converts solar energy into electrical power used for the baking process.

Prof von Solms explained that the idea is for the bakery to function on the conversion of solar energy as much as possible – minimising the cost of solar energy storage solutions. This means that baking will be seasonally dependent, and bakers will have to adjust their baking times in accordance to the sun to harness maximum power during baking cycles.

Contrary to traditional community development activities which normally consist of agriculture, tourism and niche manufacturing, the commercial sized bakery is ideal because: The operation and income are immediate; It is a sustainable business with vast opportunities for growth; It is not dependent on grid tied electricity as it harnesses the power of the sun; It immediately avails job opportunities in communities and it fosters skills development, micro business and enterprise development.

The UJ School of Electrical Engineering in collaboration with Bakery and Food Technology Incubator of South Africa (BICSA), offers training on how to bake, run a bakery as a business and how to maintain a solar PV system – enabling communities to thrive independently.

So far, the Solar Bread Box has sparked economic activity, created jobs for eight individuals, created an enterprise that now serves neighbouring villages, created the access to wholesome foods, the production of at least 100 loaves of bread a day, and boosted skills development in Gwakwani - a small remote village in Limpopo, South Africa that initially had no grid connection.

When used as a tool for community development, the Solar Bread Box becomes a self-sustaining, economy stimulating, job creating and skills development platform – creating communities that have access to healthy, wholesome baked goods, are self-dependant and economically active. responsible traveller 47

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS Protecting the Environment while Empowering Entrepreneurs & Incentivising Communities The community of Thabazimbi and surrounding informal settlements have recently been introduced to an exciting new recycling project that helps them to keep their community clean while learning about the benefits of recycling their packaging waste, and earning a monetary reward. After a successful launch in Langa, Cape Town in 2017, the Packa-Ching recycling project has expanded with its fourth recycling unit in Thabazimbi, Limpopo.

The Packa-Ching recycling project is an innovative approach to increase the volume of recycling within informal settlements in South Africa.

“After conducting the research, we realised that there is very little recycling infrastructure and very little awareness around the environmental and economic benefits of recycling packaging waste,” says Mandy Naudé, CEO of The Polyolefin

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Responsibility Organisation (Polyco), the founding organisation of Packa-Ching. “We would like to shift the behaviour with packaging waste to make people realise that it is an income generating opportunity. We want to show people that by recycling they can earn an income and end plastic waste in the environment at the same time.”

A typical Packa-Ching recycling unit consists of a recycling collection truck and trailer that parks at different collection points within each community for a few hours each week. Residents bring their sorted recyclables, have them weighed, and in return receive Kilorands, a monetary value, paid directly into their eWallet, which is available on a basic feature phone and does not require a smart phone. Residents can then spend their Kilorands at participating merchants. The entire operation is mobile, and therefore recycling

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS becomes convenient for residents and enables the removal of waste from these communities without taking up permanent land space.

South Africa generates waste which has a significant resource value that could be accessed through reusing, repurposing and recycling waste material. It’s this economic value of the recycling waste stream that has sparked the interest of small business owners and entrepreneurs. Each Packa-Ching recycling unit is managed by an enthusiastic entrepreneur that has been tasked to scale up the recycling and waste management operations in each community.

“South Africa has unique social, economic and environmental conditions; and the Packa-Ching project has been created to benefit all three spheres.

The Packa-Ching project offers the community members an additional income source, helps to change their behaviour towards used packaging

and also helps to keep their community clean,” says Naudé. Since August 2017, the Langa Packa-Ching unit alone has diverted more than 335 tonnes of waste from landfill, while members in the Langa community have earned over R376 000 in exchange for their recyclables. This has been achieved by operating only two three hour collections per week. This community now also enjoy a much cleaner environment in which to live.

“The launch of the fourth unit in Thabazimbi is the next phase of the Packa-Ching project, with three other units already operating in Langa, Cape Town; Ivory Park, Johannesburg and Buffalo City, East London. We aim to roll out countrywide by calling on corporate support to help the project grow. We’d like to continue to empower entrepreneurs to help address South Africa’s recycling infrastructural challenges,” says Naudé.

www.polyco.co.za

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ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS The Rose Foundation Celebrates 25 Years of Success in Used Oil Recycling More than 1.5 billion litres of hazardous used motor oil has been kept out of the environment, thanks to the efforts of the ROSE Foundation (Recycling Oil Saves the Environment) which celebrates 25 years of successfully driving the responsible recycling of used lubricating oil.

ROSE, a non-profit organisation that was established by the major lubricant manufacturers and distributors in South Africa, is an example of a successful frontrunner in the voluntary formation of an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) programme in South Africa and has enjoyed great successes in its quarter of a century of operation.

Approximately 350 million litres of new lubricant oil is sold in South Africa every year. The new oil is a combination of locally manufactured, as well as imported lubes. Of the oil that is sold, approximately 150 million litres becomes used oil, of which 120 million litres is collectable for recycling.

Considering that used oil is full of contaminants that are dangerous to the environment – with one litre capable of contaminating one million litres of water – this is a vast amount of contaminant that could make its way into our environment were it not for the efforts of the ROSE Foundation.

The formation of the ROSE Foundation to drive used oil recycling was initiated in April 1994, after the government withdrew support for the used oil re-refining industry. Previously, lubricants were taxed to subsidize the re-refining of used oil back into lubricating oil. When this subsidy was removed, the major lubricant companies operating in South Africa took it upon themselves to help protect the environment.

They formed the ROSE Foundation as part of an extended producer responsibility initiative, to encourage responsible recycling and to prevent the indiscriminate dumping and burning of used lubricating oil. Currently 21 of the leading lubricating oil manufacturers and distributors belong to the ROSE Foundation.

A sustainable recycling model Bubele Nyiba, CEO of ROSE, says that ROSE has been praised by the DEA and other industries for its successful model – which has been recognised globally as best practice – and for being a leader in promoting and encouraging environmentally responsible management of used lubricating oils and related waste in South Africa.

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“Recycling used oil not only protects the environment, but also creates cost-efficient products for our economy, which is exactly what sustainable recycling should achieve.”

Most used oil in South Africa is partially processed to remove certain impurities before being recycled into burner fuel, which is used in furnaces and boilers for the production of a wide range of products. Processing reduces hazardous air emissions and the end product is cheaper than virgin furnace oil. Retrieving and recycling used oil has proved to be a lucrative enterprise.

Approximately 1,300 staff ranging from drivers, labourers and administrators, to operators and managers, are employed in the sector. The employment profile is predominantly male (85%) and African (64%). ROSE describes the used oil recycling industry as a success story on many levels: “The industry is sustainable in that it not only employs many people, but it also enables entrepreneurship,” says Nyiba.

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS “All recycling models need to be sustainable and need to work towards a circular economy to be viable in the long term. ROSE has proved that recycling protects the environment, creates widespread employment opportunities and has a knock on financial benefit for many. ROSE spearheaded Extended Producer Responsibility an essential requirement in waste management - 25 years ago, long before it was a legal requirement in South Africa. The organisation is a case-study example of a successful EPR programme that was voluntarily implemented,” says Nyiba.

Fabian Magerman, chairperson of the ROSE Foundation says that going forward ROSE will continue to increase the volumes of used oil collected and recycled in South Africa to ensure a cleaner and safer environment for the next generation. “We all share a common goal when it comes to saving our environment from oil contamination and winning the war in waste management. ROSE is building on our organizational capabilities to ensure our people meet the demands of the future and we are very

excited about the ROSE journey ahead.”

According to Magerman the single biggest challenge facing the used oil sector is, and will continue to be, legislation and how it will impact the industry. “It is imperative that ROSE works alongside government to ensure we help shape legislation which will benefit all stakeholders in the oil industry. We will continue to lobby key stakeholders who make up the value chain in used oil collection to follow our example. This must be done in conjunction with government.”

“With the reality being that one litre of used oil has the capacity to contaminate one million litres of water, coupled with the fact that oil can be recycled many times over, without losing its efficacy – there is an absolute necessity to responsibly collect and recycle used oil. ROSE champions the Petroleum industry’s ‘cradle to grave’ philosophy for used oil management and we are confident of the success of ROSE’s future and look forward to accounting for the collection of many more millions of litres of used oil,” concludes Nyiba.

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ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS A woman in a man’s world – female used oil collector celebrates a decade of success Jemimah Mofokeng is proving that women can indeed conquer typically male dominated jobs.

Jemimah is the owner and operator of Jemimah’s Oils, and spends her days collecting used motor oil.

Used motor lubricant is dirty, hazardous stuff.

One litre of used oil, containing cancer causing carcinogens and harmful compounds, can contaminate one million litres of water. In South Africa about 350 000 million litres of oil is used every year in machinery and vehicles. While a certain amount of the oil is used up in the tools and machines it lubricates, 120 million litres of collectible used oil is generated annually. This has given rise to an industry that sees South Africans making a living by going out and collecting this used oil and transporting it to refineries to be recycled.

Jemimah, who is a single mother, started her oil collection business ten years ago and says that despite it being a tough and competitive industry, she has managed to make a sustainable living for herself and her children. “While I have seen many male oil collectors come and go in my industry, I have stuck it out and persisted. I have worked hard and do my best for my family. I work with a dedicated heart and a committed soul - I refuse to be conquered.”

According to Jemimah one of the biggest hurdles she encountered initially was start up capital to get going. “Getting funds together to start a business can be a major barrier. Also as a women I received my fair share of criticism for wanting to enter what is seen as a “mans world”.” And whilst she has made a success of oil collection it is not without its ongoing challenges for this brave woman who says that the physical side of oil collecting can be taxing.

“Don’t underestimate the physical demands of doing this job! Over the years I have hired people to help me and they all find the work too hard so don’t stick it out for long. I mostly go out their alone to collect oil.”

Being alone on the road presents another set of challenges for a women, and Jemimah says she does need to be careful about safety – especially when working with money.

“Used oil collectors often go around carrying cash to pay for the oil we collect from the small workshops, who do not have electronic machines, so it’s can be a very risky job for a woman on her own. I try to minimise this risk by doing electronic payments to my clients so that I don’t carry cash at 52 responsible traveller

all – that makes you less of a target.”

But all said and done, a decade later and Jemimah is going strong and is a registered used oil collector with the ROSE Foundation (Recycling Oil Saves the Environment) “I like knowing that in the years I have been collecting oil I have not only continued to provide for my children but I have contributed to keeping the used oil out of our environment.”

The collection and recycling of used oil is an environmental priority – and is required by law through regulations laid down in the Waste Act. It is essential to ensure that it is not being poured into drains, onto the ground, painted onto poles, used as a dust suppressant or dumped into landfill with domestic refuse –practices which allow used oil to pollute the environment.

The ROSE Foundation (Recycling Oil Saves the Environment) has successfully been driving the collection and recycling of used oil for 25 years – championing the collection of over 1.5 billion litres in this time. The organisation’s collector membership base operates all around South Africa, collecting and transporting used oil to refineries for proper processing and recycling.

“ROSE collectors such as Jemimah are the heroes of the industry,” says Bubele Nyiba, CEO of ROSE. “They are the ones who go out there and collect every possible drop of used oil that could damage the environment – it’s hard, messy work, but they are making a difference.”

www.rosefoundation.org.za

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS Emirates makes a sustainable journey from billboard to bag To mark World Environment Day, Emirates gave its old advertising billboards in South Africa a new lease of life, transforming the PVC Flex material into hundreds of reusable bags. In an effort to spread the message of sustainability and make a positive impact on local communities, the advertising banners collected from across South Africa, were given a second life - the heavy-duty, PVC Flex material was upcycled to produce school bags that were donated to students of Emfundisweni Primary School in Alexandra.

A total of 517 square meters of PVC Flex material was collected and sent to Johannesburg, where Emirates commissioned Soweto-based entrepreneur Raymond Phiri of Motion Bags to design and create the bags.

Mr. Phiri and his talented team, with support from Just Bags – another local enterprise, helped bring the vision to life, creating 200 school bags and 125 shopping bags.

“The movement towards sustainable living is now more important than ever, and we need to take an active role to reduce our carbon footprint and make an impact where we can,” said Fouad Caunhye, Regional Manager of Emirates Southern Africa . “This project not only gave us that opportunity, but also enabled us to engage with our community in a meaningful way. Partnering with local entrepreneur Raymond Phiri to create items that will bring joy to children, will only strengthen the close bonds Emirates already has with South Africa and its people.”

“This project is very close to my heart because I know what it’s like not to have a bag for school when the other children do,” said Raymond Phiri, owner of Motion Bags. “These bags are incredibly

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strong, water-resistant and will endure. Grade 1 learners that receive these bags will be able to use them until grade 7.”

Mr. Caunhye and representatives from the airline’s local office in Johannesburg visited the primary school to handover the upcycled bags to 200 students. Also included in the bags was a selection of stationery and activities books from Emirates’ onboard products for children.

“To see the happy faces of our students when they received their new bags, was such a delight,” said Thembakazi Giyama, Principal of Emfundisweni Primary School in Alexandra. “I’d like to thank Emirates for putting this fantastic initiative together. It is all the more special knowing that the spirit and sentiment behind these bags is the sustainable future of our children.”

Emirates continues to be an environmentally responsible airline. “Over the years, we have introduced multiple sustainable best practices which include our sustainable blankets produced from 100% recycled bottles and a young, fuel efficient fleet of aircraft,” said Mr. Caunhye.

At the state of the art Emirates Engineering Centre in Dubai, the airline uses a drywash technique to clean its aircraft, saving millions of litres of water each year. Other initiatives include the installation of one megawatt array of solar photo voltaic panels which generate over 1,800 megawatt-hours of electricity every year. This translates to a saving of 800 tonnes in carbon dioxide emissions. Emirates also operates one of the world’s youngest and most fuel-efficient fleet of aircraft – a significant investment in reducing its environmental impact.

www.emirates.com/environment

Get the facts straight about paper and recycling.

ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS

Abraham Lincoln once said, “Don’t believe everything you read on the Internet.”

got the energy mix on the greener side just yet, that’s if we have any at all.

I recently drew cash at an ATM and was greeted with an on-screen message: “If everyone said no to a receipt just for one month, we would save 45 trees.” This is a classic example of greenwashing: making unsubstantiated or misleading claims about the environmental benefits of a product, service, technology or company practice.

These green claims often have no scientific basis to them – environmental myths have been published so often on the internet that they are deemed as facts.

Facts about forestry and farmed trees

Companies would prefer that you did not print the receipt because it saves them money.

You may have been encouraged “save the planet” by opting to receive bills or magazines electronically. Again, this is a cost-saving measure, and a practical one considering the state of our local postal system (and the associated carbon footprint); but instead companies “greenwash” it by saying you’re saving trees.

Personally, I prefer to receive bills online because it’s just more convenient (not greener) – and I’m the world’s worst filer – or the world’s best piler.

But give me a printed magazine over a digi-mag with page-turning sound effects any day!

The most common form of greenwash is that little footer at the bottom of emails – “think before you print”.

If you need to print it, print it. And re-use it or recycle it once it’s been dealt with. If you’re going to be referring to something regularly, print it out and file it. Every time you open a document, your computer or device consumes energy – and in South Africa, we haven’t quite

Statements about saving trees by not printing are blatantly untrue. Firstly, the fibre for our paper and wood products is not sourced from from indigenous forests or rainforests (we don’t have rainforests in South Africa).

Paper along with a myriad of wood-, paper- and tissue-based items are made from farmed trees, and recycled paper (which came from trees in the first place). Certain species of trees are planted in crops in South Africa specifically for the paper and wood industries, with a small percentage harvested for use each year which are then replanted within the same year. This is VERY different to deforestation which is the denuding of forested land for the likes of urban development (shopping mall, our homes, office parks) and agriculture.

Plantations are also not irrigated – they get their water from rain and groundwater and the sector even pays a “rain tax” – or streamflow reduction levy.

This make trees – and anything made from them – a renewable resource. Have you ever been asked to eat less carrots or cabbage to save the vegetable farm? No, you are supporting farmers by eating their produce.

Recycling paper does not save trees Stating that your company has saved X number of trees because you’ve implemented a paper recycling programme is also misguided. As trees are farmed for the purpose of making paper, they do not need to be saved.

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ENVIRONMENTAL NEWS Paper recycling is important for other reasons.

It diverts a useful material from landfill which paper, packaging and tissue manufacturers re-use to make stuff you use every day. The recycling of one tonne of “paper does not save 17 pine trees” but it will save around three cubic metres of landfill space and that is something to be proud of. And it keeps the carbon in the paper fibre (absorbed from the air by the tree) locked up for longer.

One person’s waste is another’s treasure Paper recycling – from the collection and buy-back centres to the reprocessing and manufacturing into new products – also sustains local jobs. Recycling reclaimers and waste pickers have helped to increase the collection of hard-toget post-consumer waste, especially office paper, which is why keeping your paper recycling separate and dry is better for them – they get more for cleaner paper.

In 2018, 71.7% of recoverable paper – 1.285 million tonnes of documents, newspaper,

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magazines, cardboard boxes of countless kinds, and milk and juice cartons – was diverted from landfills for re-use.

Using recycled printer paper is not necessarily greener Recycled printing and copy paper is not made in South Africa – this is imported, carrying an additional carbon footprint. Companies should be purchasing locally made copy paper. There are two well-known South African brands, both of which are certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC®) as sustainably produced.

So consider the environment before you greenwash your marketing claims.

But make a noise about using locally produced paper, your successful recycling programme and that you are supporting informal collectors or small businesses by making their paper and other recyclables available to them. words - Samantha Choles, Paper Manufacturers Association of South Africa

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TRAVEL CHANGES PEOPLE...

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PEOPLE CHANGE THE WORLD

Words - Natalia Rosa Pics - Natalia Rosa & Oana Dragan responsible traveller 59

S

he could barely see over her steering wheel as she navigated deftly through the smog-filled tuk-tuk sandwich that is New Delhi’s busy road network despite it being a Sunday. Amidst the cacophony of hooting cars, construction and the odd leafy park filled with teams playing cricket, feisty Lalita provided me with my first introduction of ‘just go’ – the default setting on the bustling cityscape of this northern Indian city said to be home to over 16 million people.

It seemed somewhat incongruous that this tiny-figured woman would be willing, indeed more than capable of commanding her space in this intimidating game of Tetris. And yet, here she was, part of a team of 800 fully trained female taxi drivers empowered through the Women on Wheels initiative, which founder Meenu Vadera says, shows a “very different face

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of India” – one with strong women who can change their fortune and that of their families.

Lalita and Women on Wheels was to be the brave introduction to a G Adventures trip through New Delhi, Agra and the Kathmandu Valley in Nepal, revealing how travel can be a force for good.

India New Delhi - Women on Wheels

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G Adventures founder Bruce Poon Tip describes it best when he talks about the ‘Ripple Score’ that travel has on local businesses and communities. “People don’t want to hear about poverty when they travel. We’ve evolved in our thoughts and are showing a model where local people can benefit, and tourism drives poverty alleviation,” says Bruce.

How do they do this? By changing their behaviour as a tour operator in their procurement and buying local. “We have changed our behaviour down the supply chain, giving higher priority to businesses that are locally owned so that every tour gets a Ripple Score, that is the percentage of money that stays locally. With this model, everybody wins – the traveller and the local community.”

G Adventures and not-for-profit partner Planeterra, which invests in projects aimed at providing socio-economic benefits to local communities around the world, examine their specific procurement needs within the destination and fund start-up businesses that could join its supply chain, guaranteeing them customers before they’ve even launched their business.

This is in stark contrast to the model of ‘build it, and they will come’ which we see all too often in South Africa.

Another such example is the establishment of Kitchen with a Cause in New Delhi, an initiative hatched by two former G Adventures Chief Experience Officers, Abhi and Govind, while they were on a flight between Kathmandu and Delhi.

Funded by Planeterra to change people’s lives, Kitchen with a Cause helps former street children to build a career in the field of hospitality. G Adventures brings their travellers to the brightly coloured café, which serves incredible local cuisine, and these children are given a future, explains Govind Jha. “We want to be a guide to these kids for the future. If they want to build a career in the field of hospitality, we will be their guiding light. We have had 11 children graduate and get jobs or pursue further education. Of course, food is our main thing, but apart from that, we are giving young adults who were street children before an opportunity to pursue a career in hospitality.”

Bruce Poon Tip, G Adventures, at the Taj Mahal, India

Since January 2018 when Kitchen with a Cause was opened, 30,000 visitors have dined there. responsible traveller 63

Bruce and his G Adventures’ Team live the belief that tourism has the power to change people’s lives. “We identify with social enterprise, with wealth distribution and economic benefit a core focus for us. Our goal is to get people out into the community, instead of sending them to destinations which are threatened by overtourism.” For Bruce, travel can be transcended 64 responsible traveller

for a higher purpose. “Ask yourself when you travel, what are you going to give back instead of what you’re going to get? What will you do today, for tomorrow?

“Good ideas aren’t measured by their frequency and size. It’s what we do with them. Take your ideas and make them real.” •

Travellers dining at Kitchen With a Cause in New Delhi, India

‘We identify with social enterprise, with wealth distribution and economic benefit a core focus for us.

Our goal is to get people out into the community instead of sending them to destinations which are threatenend by over-tourism...’ responsible traveller 65

The Ripple Effect of Tourism in India and Nepal If the idea of expanding your Ripple Score when you travel to India or Nepal resonates, here are some of the incredible experiences that G Adventures recommends to ensure you’re contributing to the sustainability and prosperity of local communities.

1. Salaam Baalak Trust Join the ‘ambassadors’ of Salaam Baalak Trust, former street children who have been rehabilitated and are now guiding travellers through the dusty streets of New Delhi, to learn about life on the street, their journey to a new future and the work done by the Trust to help the estimated 100,000 children who live here.

4. Patan Community Homestay One of the three cities in the Kathmandu Valley, Patan was heavily hit by the earthquake in 2015 which killed nearly 9,000 people. The women of the local community decided it was time to take matters into their own hands to uplift the locals and have launched a new community homestay and dinner experience to share the local Newari culture, cuisine and art. Guests are treated to traditional dances, a Newari feast cooked by the local ladies including their home-brewed Raksi and a visit to the shrine in the middle of the square.

For more information, visit Patan Community Homestay.

For more information, visit Salaam Baalak Trust.

5. Panauti Community Homestay

2. Café Sheroes Hangout

G Adventures travellers visiting the Kathmandu Valley have an opportunity to spend a few nights in the village of Panauti, where women established a community homestay five years ago, much to the amusement of the local men who thought they were pursuing a pipe-dream. It started in a single house, and today 20 women are involved in the project. They have learned how to speak some English and have become confident contributors despite the patriarchal society of Nepal. As a result of tourism coming into the village, there have been efforts to reduce the use of plastic and keep the streets clean. The homestay project has inspired other communities across Nepal to get involved, with 216 families now supported through G Adventures and these community homestay projects.

If you’re visiting the Taj Mahal, pop in for a deliciously steamy sweet chai tea served by women who have survived and emerged boldly from the devastating disfigurement and blow to their self-esteem caused by acid attacks.

Rub shoulders with locals and travellers who can spend their time in this lounge-style coffee shop surrounded by books and support these courageous survivors – many of whom had never even been to a restaurant before.

For more information, visit Café Sheroes Hangout.

3. SASANE (Sisterhood of Survivors) In Kathmandu, travellers meet with women who are survivors of human trafficking. According to SASANE, Nepal is an epicentre for human trafficking, and 7,500 girls are trafficked into India every year. One of the critical initiatives conducted

by SASANE is training some of these women to be paralegals so that they can assist other victims at police stations when they report the crime. They also provide food and beverage management, culinary and trekking skills for survivors. Guests who visit their headquarters are taught how to make the delicious local dumplings (Momos) and treated to a local Newari lunch cooked by members of SASANE. The reason they’re called Momos I was told? Because you can’t stop eating them – mo’ mo’!

For more information, visit SASANE. 66 responsible traveller

For more information, visit Panauti Community Homestay.

G Adventures offers itineraries in India and Nepal featuring these and other experience that contribute in a meaningful and socio-economic way to the local communities. To check how your trip adds to the lives of the local community, check out the Ripple Score icon provided in most of their tours online and in their brochures. “We are committed to improving Ripple Scores wherever possible, by finding additional local services to use on our tours,” says Bruce.

www.gadventures.com

Mr. Mashelelo’s bakery...

SASANE Momo ingredients Salaam Baalak Trust City Walk tour guide in New Delhi, India

SASANE lunch time with travellers in Kathmandu, Nepal

Panauti Community Homestay kitchen in Nepal responsible traveller 67

‘Guests who visit the headquarters are taught how to make delicious local dumplings (Momos) and treated to a local Newari lunch cooked by members of SASANE...’

SASANE Momo cooking class - hands on with travellers

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100 Planeterra projects by the end of 2020 G Adventures has increased its commitment to community tourism with the introduction of an additional 25 Planeterra projects into its tours by 2020.

This will bring the total number of projects to 100 globally, meaning 90% of the operator’s small-group trips will visit a community tourism project supporting women and children, Indigenous culture and/or environmental conservation.

Project 100 now commences as a new Planeterra initiative, with 25 new projects being announced later this year.

Bruce Poon Tip, the founder of G Adventures, says giving back to local people in the communities the company travels to is built into the company’s DNA. “Each year, more than 100,000 travellers visit our 75 current projects, touching the lives of 60,000 local people annually.

“I believe travel can be a force for good and has the power to become the biggest form of wealth distribution the world has seen. The transformative power of travel is most real when our travellers see first-hand the impact their travel choices have on others, so I’m proud that 90% of our travellers will have this experience.”

One such initiative, included in G Adventures tours, is that of Dqae Qare San Lodge in Botswana. The San Lodge lodge, campsite, and wildlife area is the only freehold land owned by an indigenous community in Southern Africa and provides much-needed employment for the nearby village of D’Kar, where revenue from tourism is invested in the local preschool, arts programme and museum.

Planeterra has provided Dqae Qare San Lodge with a grant to upgrade their campsite where more than 1,000 G Adventures travellers will stay and learn about the history and culture of the San from their people directly.

Travellers departing on the 18-Thirtysomethings Delta & Falls Overland trip, travelling from Windhoek to Victoria Falls, will stay at Dqae Qare San Lodge.

All current and future G Adventures and Planeterra projects are selected according to the most significant benefit to the community resulting from traveller numbers. Particularly where women, youth and Indigenous people have been disadvantaged by a lack of access to education, jobs and income opportunities.

For more information about Planeterra and its work, click HERE responsible traveller 69

WEST COAST

quaint & quirky ...wild & wonderful

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Words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann West Coast National Park

T

hree days would never be enough. I knew that I would only scratch the surface, but I still couldn’t resist the opportunity of exploring this wonderfully wild, somewhat ancient and fabulously down-toearth and quirky region known as the Cape West Coast. It’s an easy houror-so drive from Cape Town making it perfect for a day trip… but you’ll come for a day and want to stay for a week, or more. I certainly did. responsible traveller 71

I was travelling with Carmen Lerm, CEO of WEST COAST WAY, a passionate, knowledgeable and savvy businesswoman and destination marketer.

The right person to give me an introduction to this wonderful region.

As the suburbs thinned and the wide-open spaces became more prevalent I learnt a little of its history – from the ancient ways of the San to its significance in the Anglo-Boer War, to the communities that live and thrive in little almost forgotten towns and the proud fishermen who to this day salt their catch (mullet) whole and dry them in the open air – bokkoms they are called, salty fish biltong.

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Our first stop was !KHWA TTU, a unique space that introduces visitors to the culture and history of the San – past, present and future.

Not in a structured or institutional kind of way, as most museums tend to do, but in a tactile, experiential way, introducing the way of the San through the senses – sight, touch, taste, hearing and smell.

Michael Daiber, General Manager of !Khwa ttu, shares his heart with me, his vision for this proud, yet often marginalised people and their incredible wealth of knowledge. Knowledge that could so easily be lost. He tells how, back in 1999, the late Swiss anthropologist Irene

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Staehelin, bought a farm so that a San Culture and Educational Centre could be established, so that this ancient history and knowledge would be preserved, continued and extended.

From Michael, and San guide Joram /Useb, I learn about southern Africa’s First People, the original inhabitants of this same land. I learn how art tells a story, how the stars are a gateway to the heavens beyond. How tools of old were made and how human history is linked to these ancient hunter gatherers.

I learn about the tragic outcomes of colonisation… the de-humanising of these humble yet self-sufficient people as they were poked, prodded and photographed in the name of science. And how they were removed from the land they had roamed for generations as colonial farmers took ownership.

The heartlessness of this injustice sat heavy on my soul. Fortunately, the experience didn’t stop there, and soon my senses were awakened with the sound of birdsong, the buzzing of bees and the cheerful family comings and goings of the San way of life. I was walking through the incredible, state-of-the-art, Way of the San building – if one could even call it a building.

The ‘Way of the San’, is so much more than a history lesson, it’s a lesson about life. Life lived then… and now. Life lived with respect for those around you, respect for nature and the environment. To taking only what is necessary, to giving back and keeping little. Carrying my backpack, camera and cell phone, I felt weighed down by stuff. Necessary for the task at hand, but stuff, nonetheless.

With these thoughts still searching for a place to settle in my mind, I was introduced to Dongue Dala, one of !Khwa ttu’s guides, who with her beautiful smile introduced me to the !Khwa ttu herbal tea, its medicinal quality a taste that I’m sure would take time to acquire!

Next was Chef Lily Jansen, who introduced me to the absolute deliciousness of Spekboom soup… the yummiest soup I have ever tasted – made from Spekboom leaves (Portulacaria afra).

I learnt that the Spekboom is high in vitamin C, that its good for dehydration, exhaustion and heatstroke, making it the perfect snack when hiking through arid regions.

We were introduced to the chickens and their innovated egg-laying facilities - repurposed filing cabinets made for easy access to the freshly laid eggs - just brilliant, and met Luca 74 responsible traveller

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‘The ‘Way of the San’, is so much more than a history lesson, it’s a lesson about life. Life lived then… and now. Life lived with respect for those around you, respect for nature and the environment. To taking only what is necessary, to giving back and keeping little. ...’ responsible traveller 77

Lady Brewer, Joyce Denson

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Samba as we walked through the vegetable and herb garden and the newly developing plant nursery (a favourite of the local eland).

The relatively new II Kabbo Training Centre is a place for mentorship and training, where up to 30 San go through the educational skills development annually, enabling them to make life choices and decisions regarding their future. Some have gone on to study further, many have started their own businesses or entered the workplace, with some are even working at !Khwa ttu. My heart is full knowing that what these young men and women can now have hopes and dreams, not just for themselves, but for their family’s too.

I could have stayed longer, but the rest of my whistle-stop West Coast experience beckoned, and the quaint little town of Darling was calling.

DARLING is home to South Africa’s favourite diva, Tannie Evita (aka Pieter Dirk Uys), the yummiest toffees south of the equator, Darling Sweet and Africa’s first carbon neutral brewery, Darling Brew… and a whole host of wineries.

At the Darling Brew Tasteroom and Brewery I met the young lady brewer Joyce Denson, who shared both her knowledge and passion for beer with me. A fairly new passion, I learnt, as before working as a waitress in the Tasteroom she had never tasted beer. Needless to say, she acquired the taste quickly and as her interest grew so did her passion, a passion that led to her current position, right hand woman to current brew master Rene du Toit.

‘As I walk through the state-of-theart facility, I learn about Darling Brew’s commitment to slow brewing and sustainability. ...’

As I walk through the state-of-the-art facility, I learn about Darling Brew’s commitment to slow brewing and sustainability. Which, in addition to reducing their energy and water usage, is maintaining their carbon neutral status – attained by offsetting their emissions via responsible carbon capturing (in a sense capturing the carbon created through the brewing process), reduction projects and finally off-sets where required.

Our brewery tour is topped off with a beer tasting, five delicious variants accompanied by biltong and beer grain chips, an innovative way of repurposing the ‘waste’ from the brewing process.

Evita se Perron is where you’ll find South Africa’s favourite political satirist and impersonator, Pieter Dirk Uys, if not in person, responsible traveller 79

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certainly by representation. The transformed Darling railway station is home to a bar, cabaret venues, restaurant and arts and craft shop – if you’re a ‘Tannie Evita Bezuidenhout’ fan you’ll love the memorabilia and the tongue-in-cheek history lesson.

Not only does Darling Sweet create seriously yummy toffees, they also provide much needed employment in the town – as a drive through the streets will attest to. The story begins when two guys – Frits van Ryneveld and Hentie van der Merwe, decided to make handcrafted toffees the old-fashioned way. Six years later and Darling Sweet has 21 full-time and 11 parttime employees, and a range that has grown to include 10 toffee flavours including favourites Tannie Evita’s Classic, Honey and salt and my favourite, Liquorice. A portion of the sales of Tannie Evita’s Classic Toffee goes to The Darling Trust which was started in 2003 by Pieter Dirk Uys to empower and help the community mainly through education, skills development and health.

The cool and temperate West Coast climate has ensured that this region has become a popular wine growing area with Wine Tasting available at Ormonde Wines, Darling Cellars and Groote Post Vineyards. My favourite is the subtly pinked Pyjama Bush, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Grenache from Darling Cellars.

The rosé is so named, because its subtle pink blush resembles the pink of the Pyjama Bush (Lobostemon fruticosus) a local indigenous shrub that has flowers in both subtle pink and blue (like little boys and girls in their pyjamas) during the spring and summer months. And if you’ve no time for wine-tasting, then pop into the Darling Wine Shop for a great selection of all the local tipple.

Con Meyer, wildflower enthusiast, and previous president of the Darling Wild Flower Society, tells me that this region is also famous for its Spring flowers, celebrated in September with the Darling Wildflower Show (20-22 September 2019). A weekend of all things floral, where the streets are lined with flowering annuals and the fields are alive with colour as dormant bulbs and spring flowers burst forth.

His enthusiasm for wildflowers is infectious and I begin wondering how I can fit in a September visit – not just for the Show, but to spend time with the spring flowers with Con as my guide.

All this wine and beer tasting called for some serious fresh air, and what better than a sunset walk along the wild Atlantic responsible traveller 81

‘Waves pounded the shore, sea-spray wafted into my face and clumps of kelp lay strewn on the isolated beach. Seagulls foraged and a pair of oyster catchers sat catching the last rays of the sun...’ 82 responsible traveller

Sunset on the beach at Yzerfontein responsible traveller 83

Hopefield Dutch reformed Church

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Ocean at YZERFONTEIN. This small harbour town is centrally located for most West Coast attractions and offers a wide range of accommodation options, from self-catering apartments and B&B’s to guest house accommodation and homestays.

I enjoyed the beautifully appointed selfcatering accommodation at Pelican’s View and its proximity to the ocean was just what I needed after such a busy day. Waves pounded the shore, sea-spray wafted into my face and clumps of kelp lay strewn on the isolated beach.

Seagulls foraged and a pair of oyster catchers sat catching the last rays of the sun. A man walked his German shepherd as the lights of Yzer began twinkling in the distance. I breathed in the fresh salty air and felt myself relaxing…

Returning to my snug ‘home’, I enjoyed making use of the free WiFi, watched a movie and snuggled into the wonderfully comfy bed.

Ready to head out bright and early the next morning for more West Coast exploring.

Further north is HOPEFIELD, an historic town dating back to 1851. It is in the heart of the Sandveld and is surrounded by fields of wheat and hillsides covered in fynbos. The town’s origins revolve around the building of the stately Dutch Reformed Church, built with money donated by local farmers.

Ouma & Oupa on the stoep at Simply Bee

Down an ordinary street, opposite the towering spire of said Church, you’ll find an ‘unordinary’ shop. It’s a place where ‘Ouma’ and ‘Oupa’ sit comfortably on the stoep, where the walls tell a story of beekeepers and fynbos, and where the shelves are laden with the beautifully fragrant and exceptionally pure products. Honeybee products. Simply Bee products.

Simply Bee, the brainchild of inspiring entrepreneur Helena van der Westhuizen, is a place where the honeybee products are blended and bottled with love, and where hopes and dreams are brought to life. To honour her father’s passion for responsible beekeeping, Helena has turned his hobby into a business creating an all-natural range of beeswax products – from fynbos honey to candles, soaps and cosmetics.

Helena tells me that it was her sensitive skin that started her thinking of a cosmetic range using only the raw materials from their own hives. A range free from harmful chemicals, synthetic fragrances and parabens.

Additionally, with no commercial farming in responsible traveller 85

the region, their fynbos honey, beeswax and propolis is all organic. Bee conservation is also key, so their hives aren’t used for commercial pollination, are placed on stands to be badger friendly and no harm is done to the bees in the harvesting of bee products.

In line with their conservation ethos there is a Bee Observation Centre that is used for educational purposes. Simply Bee also does educational talks to local schools.

Helena’s vision for empowering women has certainly brought the ‘hope’ back in Hopefield.

With a number of women employed in the production and sales of Simply Bee products she has impacted the lives of many families enabling moms to clothe and house their kids and to pay for their education thereby impacting a new generation.

If you’re in Hopefield on a Saturday morning, be sure to pop into The Mill Market for farmto-table produce, handmade gifts and yummy pancakes. Their theme for 2019 is ‘We Rise by Lifting Others’ - great words to live by.

Heading to the coast one crosses the Berg River estuarine system into the traditional fishing village of VELDDRIF. Hit a right into Bokkom Laan and you’re in the quintessential West Coast fishing village with its whitewashed buildings, rickety wooden jetties and a wide assortment of boats. For centuries local fisherman have been hauling in their catch, salting and then drying them in the heat of the sun. Bokkoms are still seen hanging in crudely made structures and on the menus of restaurants along the dusty stretch of road.

Kids play on jetties; fishermen head out in boats and seagulls hover hoping for a tasty titbit. If you’re lucky you’ll see flocks of flamingo fly overhead and pelicans filling their bellies.

One of the little white-washed Bokkom huisies (houses) is now The River Studio and it’s where you’ll find local artist Marina Clunie, often with paintbrush in hand. There are canvases everywhere, some complete, others a work in progress. I feel as though I have fallen into a ‘West Coast Wonderland’ with each scene transporting me to a different time or place. Shades of blue, pops of yellow, stormy skies and tranquil bays, Marina has a way of absorbing her surroundings and capturing them on canvas.

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‘Kids play on jetties; fishermen head out in boats and seagulls hover hoping for a tasty titbit. If you’re lucky flocks of flamingo fly overhead and pelicans fill their bellies ...’

Below: Marina Clunie in her studio

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Bokkoms drying in the sun responsible traveller 89

taste buds, then pop into Russells-on-Port, overlooking the Port Owen Marina. The restaurant, which has both indoor and outdoor seating, offers an upmarket dining experience that focuses on fresh local produce, including West Coast seafood.

The on-site vegetable garden provides most of the herbs and some of the salad greens with the micro-herbs grown by Retso Foster, one of the waiters as a side-hustle. We opted for gourmet wood-fired pizzas accompanied by a glass of Groote Post Pinot Noir Rosé and finished off with delicious homemade berry ice cream… just the thing for a warm summery day.

If wine isn’t your thing, fear not as Charlie’s Brewhouse offers a range of on-tap local craft beers to accompany the bar-snacks, think West Coast mussels and hearty meals, from Eisnein and Bitterballen, to burgers and salads. The craft beers are produced in-house at their very own micro-brewery, we tasted the Charlie’s Brewhouse- Sandveld (Lager), Lighthouse (Blonde), Cormorant (Bourbon Stout) and Harbour (American Pale Ale) – with the Blonde being my clear favourite. Not a beer fan? No stress, as they also stock Poetic Licence Gin from the UK and a range of local wines and ciders.

No visit to the West Coast is complete without a visit to the West Coast National Park. And what better way to get there than via the picturesque town of Langebaan with its white sandy beaches and the clear waters of the Langebaan Lagoon – a favourite with kite surfers, wind surfers and the kayaking and sailing fraternity.

The WEST COAST NATIONAL PARK, which stretches from Langebaan to Yzerfontein, was established in 1985 with the aim of preserving the Langebaan Lagoon, an internationally acclaimed Ramsar Site for its importance as a wetland.

These wetlands and tidal flats are a haven for many local and migratory bird species, with thousands of seabirds making use of the sheltered islands to roost. Birders make use of the three bird hides to watch vast concentrations of waders as they forage in the tidal flats, with pelicans and flamingos inhabiting the deeper water.

Beach lovers enjoy the pristine beaches, the athletic and energetic the hiking and mountain bike trails and the wannabee botanists the incredible diversity of flora – especially the remote Postberg section which is only open 90 responsible traveller

to visitors during the months of August and September for the spring flowers. And everybody the wide variety of game - from eland, red hartebeest and bontebok to zebra, ostrich and even, if you’re lucky, a bat-eared fox.

So, whether you’re looking for a route to travel, keen on contemplating your ancestral roots, or just wanting some R&R or a break away from the city, the West Coast (with the help of West Coast Way) certainly has exactly what you’re looking for. •

The view over the Marina from Russells on the Port restaurant

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PLANNING YOUR WEST COAST TRIP:

www.westcoastway.co.za www.khwattu.org www.hellodarling.org.za www.darlingbrew.co.za www.darlingwildflowers.co.za www.yzerfonteinaccommodation.co.za www.simplybee.co.za www.riverstudio.co.za www.russellsontheport.co.za www.charliesbrew.co.za www.sanparks org Click HERE to find out more about the WEST COAT WAY Routes

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West Coast National Park

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CONSERVATION NEWS

Saving Species...

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CONSERVATION NEWS Elephants in Majete National Park pic: African Parks / Marcus Westberg

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CONSERVATION NEWS Cheetahs introduced to Majete Wildlife Reserve after decades-long absence Two years after cheetahs were reintroduced to Malawi, in Liwonde National Park, four individuals were safely translocated from South Africa to Majete Wildlife Reserve to form a crucial founder population and help grow the range of this vulnerable big cat.

A small founder population of wild Cheetahs has been successfully translocated from South Africa to Majete Wildlife Reserve, in Malawi, where cheetahs have not been present for decades.

Cheetahs were entirely absent from Malawi for twenty years before a successful reintroduction returned them to Liwonde National Park in 2017.

The translocation of four Cheetahs on Thursday, 25 July, resulted from a collaboration between African Parks, which manages Majete and Liwonde in partnership with Malawi’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW), and the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT). Their introduction into the secure reserve supports conservation efforts to ensure the survival of Cheetah on the continent, and marks another milestone in the restoration of Malawi’s predator population.

“Our partnership with Malawi’s DNPW and collaboration with the EWT is helping to ensure a future for an iconic predator species in decline.

By bringing Cheetahs back to Majete, we have achieved another important step in transforming the once-depleted ecosystem into a thriving reserve while supporting critical predator conservation efforts in the region,” said John Adendorff, Park Manager of Majete Wildlife Reserve. He added, “Effectively managed parks like Majete create safe havens for wildlife and generate opportunities for millions of people to benefit from the development of conservationled economies and from the long-term dividends of healthy landscapes.”

Donated by Welgevonden, Samara and Dinokeng Game Reserves and Rietvlei Nature Reserve in South Africa, the Cheetahs were flown to Lilongwe and transferred by road to Majete where they arrived safely on the evening of Thursday, 25 July. They were released into enclosures, where they will spend over a month acclimating to their new surroundings before venturing into the wider reserve. The animals are in good health and expected to do well in Majete, where habitat and prey conditions are optimal and measures are in place to ensure their ongoing conservation and protection.

Each individual was carefully selected by 96 responsible traveller

the EWT’s Cheetah Metapopulation Project, which creates safe spaces for Cheetahs while managing populations across reserves to ensure genetic diversity. The EWT considered a variety of factors when selecting Majete’s founder population, which are unrelated to the Cheetahs reintroduced to Liwonde in 2017, providing the foundations for a diverse and healthy gene pool in Malawi. “It’s really wonderful to be reintroducing Cheetahs into the 60th metapopulation reserve. We are grateful to African Parks and DNPW for creating 750km2 of safe space for wild Cheetahs. Majete has the ecological capacity to support an important viable Cheetah population,” said the EWT Cheetah Metapopulation Coordinator, Vincent van der Merwe.

Historic records suggest that Cheetahs were present in the region around Majete several decades ago. However, due to decades of habitat loss, human-wildlife conflict and poaching, Cheetahs vanished from Malawi until the 2017 reintroduction saw their return to Liwonde National Park. African Parks assumed management of Majete Wildlife Reserve, the first park to enter its portfolio, in partnership with Malawi’s DNPW in 2003; and begun reviving the park by implementing sound law enforcement, community development and conservation programmes.

Almost 3,000 animals of 15 species were brought back, including both leopard and lion, making Majete Malawi’s only home to ‘Big Five’ wildlife.

Since then, the conservation efforts of the Malawi Government and African Parks have overseen a predator restoration plan for the region, with Cheetah and lion also reintroduced to Liwonde National Park in 2017 and 2018 respectively.

With Majete secured wildlife in the reserve is flourishing, in turn benefitting local communities through sustainable tourism, livelihood opportunities and socio-economic growth.

Eradicated from 90 percent of their historic range in Africa, Cheetahs are listed as Vulnerable by the IUCN, and as few as 6,700 remain in the wild. While numbers have plummeted due to shrinking habitats and growing anthropogenic pressures, protected areas provide safe spaces that are critical to enabling population growth and range expansion, and to securing a future for the species on the continent.

The EWT is grateful to PwC for their support of the CHEETAH METAPOPULATION PROJECT.

CONSERVATION NEWS

Cheetah on Liwonde National Park - pic: African Parks/Olivia Sievert

Cheetah tracking in Liwonde National Park - pic: African Parks/Naude Heunis responsible traveller 97

CONSERVATION NEWS Could YouTube help save the Pangolin?

Eye of the Pangolin, the ground-breaking new documentary about the most trafficked mammal on earth, premiered on Friday 17 May, Endangered Species Day, and was made freely available online for worldwide viewing from Saturday 18 May. Pangolin.Africa, an NPO dedicated to the conservation of this species and a major partner in the production of the film, is taking a unique approach to distribution of this muchanticipated film, in a bold attempt to make this the most watched wildlife documentary ever.

Pangolin.Africa is utilising streaming services, as opposed to more traditional channels, for global distribution thus harnessing the power and popularity of YouTube to take the film to the world. Says, Toby Jermyn, director of Pangolin.

Africa, “We are fortunate to have secured funding

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for production of the film so we don’t have to sell it on to networks to recoup costs. As we are not tied to a distributor, we’re able to make it freely available as an open source film, allowing us to reach the greatest possible number of viewers in the shortest possible time. The widespread accessibility of the internet – even in remote areas - means fewer barriers to entry for viewers than if we were to screen the film in cinemas.

Currently the most watched wildlife documentary on YouTube has around 10 million views and we are determined to exceed this.”

Pangolin.Africa’s participation in the production of the film aligns strongly with one of the primary aims of the NGO which is to highlight the plight of the four African pangolin species. To ensure the greatest impact of the film the organisation will be translating Eye of the Pangolin into a number

CONSERVATION NEWS of African languages and will take the film to rural schools and other educational establishments in high poaching areas across the continent through an intensive screening campaign.

awareness of the species, the film will also serve as a free online tool for education in schools, wildlife colleges and environmental law enforcement agencies.

The situation facing the African pangolin has reached a tipping point. A growing demand for their scales and meat used in Traditional Chinese Medicine is fueling the horrific poaching and illegal trade that is pushing this species to the edge of extinction. In April 2019 alone, two separate seizures by Singaporean customs officials resulted in more than 24 tonnes of pangolin scales being confiscated. This equates to approximately 69,000 pangolins.

“We are excited about the incredible potential the film has to tell people about pangolins and the urgent need to work together to save them.

We are confident that embracing modern and freely available distribution channels is the most effective approach to help us quickly gain ground in the fight to save a species.� says Jermyn.

The producers of Eye of the Pangolin believe that if people come to know the pangolin they will care enough to help put an end to this wildlife crime before this species disappears in our lifetime. In addition to creating widespread

Production of Eye of the Pangolin film has been made possible with generous support from WildAid, The Marchig Animal Welfare Trust, Foundation Marchig, Tanglewood Foundation, Biggestleaf Travel and Pangolin Photo Safaris.

View the film: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=7oFalhPrdUs

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CONSERVATION NEWS New Riverine Rabbit population found in Baviaanskloof The Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Drylands Conservation Programme was thrilled to confirm the presence of a population of Riverine Rabbits on the western side of the Baviaanskloof in late May 2019. This population represents a completely new distribution of the species not anticipated by any previous population modelling.

According to Bonnie Schumann, EWT Nama Karoo Coordinator, this is an historic find with the closest confirmed sightings of the southern population having been more than 250 km to the west.

The discovery comes after ornithologist and well-known conservation scientist, Alan Lee from Blue Hills Escape Farm in the Western Cape, discovered a dead Riverine Rabbit on a gravel road in December 2018. Fortunately, he realised that the animal in front of him was not a hare or a Rock Rabbit but the Critically Endangered Riverine Rabbit.

EWT team members visited the area and set out 38 camera traps with the aim of capturing live images to confirm the presence of another population. Camera traps are placed in clusters and in such a manner that individuals are not likely to be observed twice by more than one cluster. After 50 days in the field, the cameras were collected by the team and processed.

According to Cobus Theron, EWT Drylands Conservation Programme Manager, “while we expected one or two clusters to capture images, we were astounded that eight of our 12 clusters had confirmed images of Riverine Rabbits on them!”

This again demonstrates that this species is the true hide-and-seek champion of the Karoo.

“This find is unexpected and redefines our

understanding of the distribution of the species.

It demonstrates that their elusiveness is part of their survival strategy,” continues Cobus.

CapeNature Executive Director: Biodiversity Capabilities, Coral Birss, added, “CapeNature is delighted about the recent discovery of Riverine Rabbits in the Baviaanskloof area in the Southern Cape. The species, which previously managed to go virtually undetected, has proven to effectively solidify its presence, supported by research on genetic connectivity and distribution in the last decade. This latest discovery is remarkable and bodes well for the future survival of this Critically Endangered species, particularly for its protection within the landscapes of the Western Cape surrounding our nature reserves.

CapeNature commends the great work and research being done and facilitated by the Endangered Wildlife Trust and looks forward to further collaboration and tracking the progress of this interesting species.”

The EWT has also obtained a genetic sample from the dead rabbit found by Alan Lee. This will be analysed to provide insights into the relationship between the Baviaanskloof Riverine Rabbits and Riverine Rabbits from the northern and southern populations. The find shows the importance of sightings by members of the public and the value of social media in connecting people.

The EWT, along with CapeNature, will now incorporate the findings into their conservation strategy and engage landowners in the Baviaanskloof to ensure that the Riverine Rabbit receives the attention it deserves.

www.ewt.org.za

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CONSERVATION NEWS Saving Endangered Wild Dogs takes a team effort I The Endangered African Wild Dog is a rare sight for visitors to a handful game reserves that still have them. But one more opportunity to catch a glimpse of these scarce and reclusive animals will soon be available in South Africa.

The Makalali Game Reserve has recently become the newest addition to the Wild Dog Range Expansion Project, coordinated by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) and the Wild Dog Advisory Group of South Africa (WAG SA) as part of ongoing efforts to save this species from extinction.

Since its inception in 1973, the EWT has worked tirelessly to protect Africa’s carnivores. Today, these predators remain close to the organisation’s heart, particularly African Wild Dogs.

The ultimate goal is to reverse the decline of Wild Dogs globally, by actively increasing their populations and range throughout southern Africa. This is achieved this by establishing, maintaining and expanding safe space for Wild

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Dogs; reducing threats to their survival; ensuring positive changes in human-based values to Wild Dogs; and supporting laws to better protect them. Despite this, Wild Dogs are still among the most threatened animals in Africa, under severe threat from snaring, poaching, disease, roadkill, and habitat loss. In southern Africa, the EWT is proud to help reverse this continent¬ wide trend, and the population has stabilised at around 500 individuals.

This most recent relocation was made possible thanks to a group effort by aha Hotels & Lodges, the EWT, WAG SA, the owners of Makalali Game Reserve in Limpopo, and Rob Panos, the Makalali Reserve Manager.

The reserve is currently 26,000 ha and recently obtained National Private Nature Reserve status.

Due to its size, ecology and the efforts made by management to keep the area protected, Makalali was identified as an ideal site to introduce a pack of Wild Dogs.

CONSERVATION NEWS While Wild Dogs have passed through Makalali before, the introduction of this new, young pack of four is aimed at making the species a permanent fixture in the reserve. The two young males, nicknamed “Nyezi” and “Mkhovu”, were born in 2016 and are the ideal age to start their own pack. The females, “Zeyheri” and “Pacman”, were born in 2016 and 2017 respectively.

The pack was successfully relocated to Makalali on 9 June 2019, thanks to the EWT Carnivore Conservation Programme’s Cole du Plessis and Grant Beverley, and is currently being held in a 100x100m section of the predator boma on the premises. In just a few months, they will be fully released into the wild. aha Hotels & Lodges and Makalali contributed much-needed funds towards making the pack’s introduction to Makalali possible. aha CEO, Graeme Edmond was also on site to lend a hand to the EWT team and Dr Joel Alves from Wildlife Vets SA by taking samples, fitting a GPS collar to one of the males, and loading the dogs into the

custom-designed crates for the long drive from KZN to Limpopo.

Graeme, who has taken a very personal interest in the process, says, “this project is something that’s very close to my heart and I’m over the moon that I could get aha Hotels & Lodges involved in finding a new home for these Endangered animals. We’ll be paying close attention to their progress in Makalali and will continue to support the process in any way we can.”

EWT CEO, Yolan Friedmann, added, “The EWT is very excited to partner with organisations like aha Hotels & Lodges and Makalali private game reserve to relocate these Endangered carnivores to new areas. Without their support and vision, relocations such as this would not be possible.

The EWT encourages tourists from all over the world to view animals in their wild and free habitats, in places such as Makalali.”

www.ewt.org.za

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CONSERVATION NEWS Tracking collars for elephants in Mkhuze in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park In the first week of July six elephants were fitted with new telemetry collars in the uMkhuze section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park as part of its ongoing scientific research activities.

Five females and one bull received new ‘necklaces’ in uMkhuze, which has approximately 100 of the pachyderms. uMkhuze’s Conservation Manager Eduard Goosen explained that “the elephants receiving collars are known individuals, chosen due to either their status as matriarch of a herd, or in this case, a specific lone bull who favours the Mantuma camp area.” Another 100 or so elephants reside in the Western Shores section, occasionally crossing Lake St Lucia to visit the Eastern Shores. Several of these animals will also shortly be collared to complete the current round of implementation.

Tracking collars enable regular monitoring of these animals within the World Heritage Site

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and inform conservation management of the iconic species. Purchase costs of the collars and associated veterinary and helicopter time have been paid for through the Park’s Rare and Endangered Species Fund, with money raised through a number of past events organised or permitted by the iSimangaliso Authority.

Says iSimangaliso’s Executive Manager of Biodiversity and Conservation, Sizo Sibiya: “We are very grateful to all of our past participants in events and fund raising initiatives that have helped to grow this fund so that we are able to support the work undertaken by our conservation partner, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, in iSimangaliso. This is a concrete example of real conservation funded by those who support and appreciate the Park and have a vested interest in conserving our natural heritage.”

www.isimangaliso.com

CONSERVATION NEWS Landmark decision for lions ahead of World Lion Day The Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) is delighted to note that the Pretoria High Court has today set aside the 2017 and 2018 lion bone quotas, stating that these were both unlawful and unconstitutional, and that due process was not followed in the setting of these quotas. Before giving his judgement, Judge Jody Kollapen said that this issue has implications for both current and future generations, and that he had taken time over his deliberations to reflect the grave importance of the decision for society.

He went on to state that the Department of Environmental Affairs (DEA), and the former Minister, had erred when they disregarded the welfare of captive wild animals. He stated that the welfare of captive lions should have been considered when determining this trade quota.

Judge Kollapen further questioned whether or not the welfare mandate for lions in captivity lies solely with the Department of Agriculture, when the national Biodiversity Plan for African Lions (gazetted by DEA) specifically stipulates the need for permit holders to comply with “minimum standards” of care. The judge went on to say that “it is inconceivable that the State…could have ignored welfare considerations of lions in captivity in setting the annual export quota.”

This precedent-setting judgement therefore has much broader implications beyond the lion bone trade, and could have a significant impact on the breeding, slaughter, and selling of parts of all captive wild animals.

The EWT has been vocal in its opposition to the lion bone trade, and the setting of these quotas, as the captive breeding of wild animals

for their parts offers no conservation value for the species. We do not support the commercial captive breeding of carnivores because it does not contribute to the sustainable, responsible use of our wildlife resources and, in some cases, may have negative impacts on the conservation of these species in the wild.

Instead, we support the conservation of wild and free ranging carnivores, including but not limited to lions, in their natural habitat, where they contribute to biodiversity conservation as keystone and flagship species. The EWT therefore welcomes this landmark judgement, and applauds the NSPCA and all other parties who have persisted in their efforts to secure this victory for lions.

EWT CEO, Yolan Friedmann, said, “This judgement is significant as it clearly addresses the assertion, incorrect in the EWT’s view, that the ethical and welfare implications of the Department’s decision, to establish an annual quota for the lion bone trade, fall outside of the Department’s remit. It confirms the need for the Department to take into account welfare considerations when they take decisions around captive wildlife instead of treating these issues as being incidental to the Department’s concern. We envisage this being a turning point for a trajectory of decision-making in recent years that has treated our national wildlife heritage as a resource for pure commercial exploitation at industrial production levels, and we applaud the Court for upholding the values underpinning our Constitutional environmental rights.”

www.ewt.org.za

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CONSERVATION NEWS World Animal Day: Do your bit for Lion Conservation Almost 90 years after the first World Animal Day was commemorated, a day devoted to paying tribute to all animals and the people who love and respect them, our wildlife is more endangered than ever.

The biggest threat facing the world’s animals is us humans – through climate change, habitat destruction and the trade in wildlife. This is why World Animal Day, celebrated annually on 4 October, draws attention to endangered species, protecting natural habitats, and promoting animal welfare.

One animal welfare organisation is working to protect one of our most iconic South African wildlife species: the lion. FOUR PAWS, one of the largest animal welfare organisations in South Africa, is committed to encouraging people to treat animals with respect, compassion and understanding, “Animals are sentient beings. They have feelings and needs just like us. All animals are part of an ecosystem and many face extinction due to our behaviour. By ensuring you’re armed with information, you’re not only helping directly by not partaking in any activities that could harm animals, but the power you have to inform others about this can have an incredible impact,” explains FOUR PAWS country director Fiona Miles.

The organisation has a special interest in the welfare of big cats, believing these African ambassadors belong in the wild and should not be kept as pets or for entertainment, or in breeding facilities for hunting and other commercial purposes.

Big cats need your help There are between 8,000 and 12,000 lions living in captivity in South Africa. Instead of contributing to conservation efforts, the overwhelming majority of these captive lions are bred for the lion bone trade or killed in canned hunts, where about 600-1,000 captive lions are killed in trophy hunts each year.

The bones of slaughtered lions are exported to South East Asia where they are used in traditional medicine. This trade directly stimulates the demand for lion bones and incentivises poachers to target wild lions and sell their bones illegally into these markets.

South Africa is the largest legal exporter of lion bones and skeletons, with an annual quota of 800 skeletons approved since 2018.

Many breeding farms offer visitors an animal interaction experience in which they can pet for 106 responsible traveller

example a lion cub. This requires for the cubs to be removed from their mothers within a few days of birth, and the subsequent hand-rearing allows the cubs to become further accustomed to human interaction. As the lions grow, they are used for other tourist activities such as ‘walking with lions’ and eventually used in canned lion hunting, or for the bone trade.

Be the difference you want to see in the world “We have the power to prevent animal abuse of this nature”, Miles stresses. “We live in a society where people are competing for the best selfie, to capture the best experience and to showcase this to their networks. This is especially true about wild animals,” she says.

“The mistreatment of animals is not widely taught, and without a benchmark of what is right, people continue to either contribute directly or indirectly to the mistreatment of animals.

Through educating people, we as an organisation have seen the impact of how change is made.

Sometimes it takes just one person to influence thousands, and even ignite a movement.”

There are simple steps to ensure you don’t contribute to the abuse and killing of big cats: •

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•

•

Don’t visit places that allow any interaction with big cats – this is the first sign that you’re at a place that could be contributing to the entire industry decimating these animals.

FOUR PAWS is actively campaigning to put an end to the onslaught against big cats, and people can add their support by signing the FOUR PAWS petition and spreading the word on social media.

Ask difficult questions to gather as much information wherever you go. With information about conservation readily available online, it’s easy to find legitimate information about how animals are exploited.

Report animal cruelty if you’re aware of it.

The relevant authorities must follow up and there is legislation protecting animals.

“Animals deserve to live their lives as they were meant to be. Pets should be cared for as companions – they are our close friends. Wild animals belong in the wild and should be able to flourish there; not in squalid conditions, afraid and abused. It’s our responsibility to be kinder to animals, to ensure their freedom and that they are able to live in conditions suitable for their species,” says Miles.

www.four-paws.org.za.

CONSERVATION NEWS Total South Africa commits to continued support of SANParks on World Ranger Day As a responsible energy organisation, Total South Africa has long been dedicated to protecting the environment. Throughout our years of partnership with SANParks, we’ve grown our commitment from simply providing fuel services back in 1958 to supporting several initiatives, from clean-up campaigns to educational experiences for South Africa’s young learners.

However, all these efforts by us and other stakeholders would be futile if it were not for the park rangers that make sure we, the people of South Africa, honour the animals and environment that we have been blessed with. Rangers are on the front line in the fight to protect both our natural heritage and wildlife from poachers or any threats that could endanger it.

As a token of our thanks to the Rangers’ bravery and commitment to protecting the environment and the animals of the park, Total South Africa continues the help in the fight against rhino poaching with the sponsorship of jet fuel for the SANParks Air-wing Project over a period of three years, approximately 100,000 litres per year.

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We are also excited to use this opportunity to announce the redesign and reprint of a South African childhood hallmark; the Total Collectable Posters in celebration of the diverse South African ecosystems and the beautiful wildlife therein.

The posters are part of Total’s environmental stewardship, which creates a platform for education, partnerships, CSI programmes, and the likes. Keeping up with the advancement of technologies in different sectors, the new version of the posters is designed with Augmented Reality (AR) features allowing the audience to engage with the information. As such, the posters not only serve as a form of an educational document but also engaging to the audience.

Each of the six beautiful posters then tells a story, depicting various biomes of specific areas within South Africa. The posters were designed to neatly arrange the animals atop a map or graph, which details and highlights a unique characteristic of each set of animals based on where in South Africa they come from.

www.sanparks.org

CONSERVATION NEWS

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Well-spotted!

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T

he Sabi Sands Game Reserve has a reputation for delivering great leopard sightings. A new study by big-cat conservation and research NGO Panthera looks at the factors that make this reserve one of the world’s last true havens for these spotted cats.

He was a hint of dappled movement in the thick riverine undergrowth. I felt the adrenaline pulse through my veins as I willed my eyes to penetrate the thick vegetation the large male leopard was navigating. We’d finally found him - the challenge was not to lose him to the shadows on the far bank. With a rising river between us and him, time was tight and we had to make a call - try to cross, or watch him disappear.

“Let’s do it,” said ranger Andre McDonald (known as Mac), executing a bumpy turn on the muddied track that runs along the river.

Having only just found the leopard we’d been searching for all morning, driving away from him seemed counter-intuitive, but the waters were rising fast after the first rains of the season had fallen the previous night. “We’ll circle back, cross before the river gets any higher, and intercept him,” said McDonald, confidently anticipating the big cat’s movements with an instinct honed over decades working as a guide at The Dulini Collection of Lodges in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve.

A recent study by Panthera, the global wild cat conservation organisation, supported by Singita and various land owners, confirms what travellers to Sabi Sands Game Reserve have long suspected. This 625 square kilometre, privately managed reserve in South Africa’s Mpumalanga province is one of the best places in Africa to see leopards, with the data suggesting a population estimate of 12 individual leopards per 100 square kilometres.

Words & pics - Dianne Tipping-Woods

“At any given time, there likely between 70-90 independent leopards (excluding cubs) using the reserve,” says Dr. Guy Balme, Conservation Science Deputy Executive Director for Panthera.

This population estimate is likely close to the upper limits attainable by the species, thanks to high levels of protection for leopards, as well as optimal habitat in terms of prey availability and cover for hunting. The reserve’s annual responsible traveller 111

management budget of USD 4000 per square kilometre per annum - generated mainly by photographic tourism from its 20 privately owned properties - well exceeds estimates for the costs of successfully conserving wild felid populations, which experts say range from about USD 930 to USD 2000 per square kilometre, per year.

The leopard we’re looking for is one of 22 (8 adult females, 6 adult males, 3 subadult females, 5 sub adult males) that were captured in Panthera’s camera trap survey on a portion of the reserve to assess “the density, structure and spatio-temporal patterns of a leopard population largely unaffected by anthropogenic mortality.” This is because as well as being abundant and relaxed around people, this leopard population is also one of the only ones in the world that is not affected by human induced threats or conflict.

Carnivores are particularly vulnerable as they compete with, and are often killed by humans, but in 40 years in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, just 2% of leopard deaths have been due to humans. This is significantly lower than the 15% of deaths attributed to humans in other protected leopard populations and 95% of deaths on unprotected populations; where leopards are shot, trapped, poisoned, snared and run over.

Meanwhile, a couple of hundred meters upstream where the river bank isn’t so steep, McDonald angled the open game drive vehicle for the crossing. “Ready,” he asked? “Hold on...”

Many a ranger has become the victim of sands that have shifted or softened unpredictably after the rain, but as we powered across, water churning, I could already see he had timed it perfectly. Not only were we going to make it through without incident, but there, emerging from a cluster of magic gwarrie, was our prize; a large male leopard known as Ravenscourt. He flopped and rolled in the damp sand, before settling on his stomach, looking at us with intense, golden eyes.

In a reserve full of celebrity leopards Ravenscourt’s story still stands out. His mother died when he was 10 months old, falling out of a tree and breaking her back while defending him from another leopard. Most leopard cubs that young wouldn’t survive in the wild, but he did, and is growing in stature and prowess with each week that passes. “He thinks he’s invincible,” said McDonald as the powerful cat stretched and resumed patrolling his rain-washed territory, 112 responsible traveller

pausing to sniff and scent mark, with us following slowly behind in the vehicle.

Despite the leopards of the Sabi Sands being very well-known - there are blogs, websites, safaris, documentaries and TV shows dedicated to its individual leopards, with amateurs and professionals tracking their lineage and histories - Panthera’s study provides the first robust estimate of leopard density in the reserve.

“It’s been fascinating to hear about the outcomes of Panthera’s work. Leopards are popping up that we haven’t seen - there are still the shy, secret and unhabituated ones - and then there are ones we’ve followed since birth,” said McDonald as we watched a languorous

‘Despite the leopards of the Sabi Sands being well-known - there are blogs, websites, safaris, documentaries and TV shows dedicated to individual leopards, with amateurs and professionals tracking their lineage - Panthera’s study provides the first robust estimate of leopard density in the reserve...’ responsible traveller 113

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Ravenscourt watch a pair of Egyptian geese down at the water’s edge.

Sightings like this should never be taken for granted. Globally, leopards have undergone a marked reduction in numbers and range, yet the species was until recently, assumed to warrant little conservation concern, notes Balme. In fact, only 17% of extant leopard range is protected and almost all leopard populations surveyed to date are affected by humans. This means their management has largely been guided by anecdote and experience, rather than scientific evidence.

That’s why this study by Panthera is so important; it can inform conservation targets, help assess the health of other leopard populations and critically, help anticipate the

As Panthera’s survey shows, Ravenscourt is just one leopard that vistors to the reserve can see on safari. Using rigorous statistical analysis on the data gathered from 74 v6 Panthera digital camera traps at 37 unbaited stations, the survey covered 91 square kilometres; more than double the mean home range of adult male leopards in the reserve, for a period of about six weeks.

Stations were placed about 1.3 km apart, on roads, drainage lines and animal paths.

The fact that these leopards have been studied over decades helped the researchers select the sites, and the cameras have also captured a huge variety of other wildlife. A total of 29 419 photos were taken recording 43 other species.

“Don’t even get me started on the birds here,” says McDonald, whose personal list is edging towards the reserve’s total of 350 plus bird

‘...only 17% of extant leopard range is protected and almost all leopard populations surveyed to date are affected by humans. This means that their management has largely been led by anecdote and experience, rather than scientific evidence.’ outcomes of population recovery attempts by providing unique insight into “a naturally functioning carnivore population at its ecological carrying capacity,” said Balme.

It’s also why the Sabi Sands Game Reserve is such a haven for leopards. Open to the Kruger National Park on its eastern and southern boundaries since 1993, with a practically impenetrable fence to the west and north, leopards here range freely over a landscape that’s almost the size of Belgium.

Although people and leopards frequently encounter each other in the reserve, leopards rarely stray outside of its boundaries and are therefore protected from ‘edge effects’.

These are threats that leopards face when they encounter people or habitats outside of protected areas; like snares, hunting, roadkills and other human-induced dangers. This is unusual for leopards. As a species, they are prone to stray, but the Sabi Sands fence makes this almost impossible for them; it’s hard to dig under, electrified, three meters high and free of trees that would aid an escaping leopard.

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species. Passionate about the ecosystem in its entirety, McDonald admits leopards do have a special place in his heart; “we live with them, afterall” he says.

The big cats treat the lodges as they do any part of their range, popping up on decks, sleeping on outdoor couches and moving between rooms with little to no concern for people or structures, sometimes treating lodges as an extension of their territories. “We have an insurance claim in of about R100 000 for ‘leopard damage’. They do sometimes chew the outdoor furniture,” said Dulini’s co-owner Sue Garratt, as she welcomed me to the new refurbished lodge the day before. With its signature tones of gold, bronze and charcoal, Dulini’s exclusive Leadwood Lodge is set amid the acacias, terminalias and combretums that are considered prime leopard habitat, and guests often spot them from their suites.

Later on game drive, we found sibling cubs playing under a marula tree where their mother, the Boulder’s female, had cached a kill.

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They looked like large kittens, rolling around in the grass. “Never make them into house cats though. They deserve more than that. No matter how chilled they seem, they are wild and free and we should never impose our own attributes to their behaviors, or get complacent in their presence,” cautioned McDonald.

leopards don’t make it to adulthood, “but the father is Ravenscourt and with him being so dominant, so long as the female stays in his territory, they have a good chance,” said McDonald while we tensely watched the hyena investigate the base of the tree, before moving on with a scrap from the carcass in its jaws.

Suddenly, the playing stopped. The female pivoted into the tree, while the male made himself invisible in the grass. A hyena was approaching. While humans don’t kill leopards in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, hyenas, lions or other leopards do. About 70% of baby

As well as killing leopard cubs, data suggests that 10% of leopard kills are lost to hyenas. This is where leopards ability to cache their kills is a valuable adaptation. In this survey, the frequency and times that hyenas were recorded after leopard sightings could even suggest the hyenas

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track them in the hopes of an easy meal…

‘As well as killing leopard cubs, data suggests that 10% of leopard kills are lost to hyenas. This is where leopards ability to cache their kills is a valuable adaptation...’

“That’s what’s really incredible; we know these leopards so well, and yet there is still so much to learn about them. And the research doesn’t prepare you for this; the thrill of watching them behave the way they should, in their natural habitat. It never gets old,” said McDonald, as we reluctantly drove away from the cubs. The sky was full of purple thunder and lightning strikes and as we got back to the lodge, the rain began to fall. •

www.dulini.com www.panthera.org responsible traveller 119

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TRIP PLANNER Where to stay The Dulini Collection: www.dulini.com offers guests the choice of three, exclusive luxury lodges in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve. Game drives traverse an area of 100 square kilometres and strict vehicle limits at sightings ensure the exclusivity of your game viewing experience. Off-road driving enables the best possible view of any exceptional sighting and rangers are constantly in touch with each other to keep track of animal movements.

There are also a number of other high-end lodges in the Sabi Sands. For more information on the reserve visit: www.sabi-sands.com Virtual safaris Now in association with National Geographic, WildEarth takes people on a unique live-streaming safari that allows thousands of individuals from all over the world to join guides on twice-daily game drives in the Sabi Sands. Visit www.wildearth.tv/safarilive to find out nore.

Big cat photographic safaris At Close Quarters is a photographic safari company that leads both scheduled photographic trips for groups of photographers and bespoke private photo safaris for smaller groups or individuals. Its Big Cat Photo Safari in the Sabi Sands is one of the most popular photographic safaris in South Africa.

Visit www.atclosequarters.com for more information. responsible traveller 121

TOURISM NEWS

What’s New In

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TOURISM NEWS

Tuludu Camp in Okavango Delta - pic Natural Selections responsible traveller 123

TOURISM NEWS New tented camp offering walking and horse safaris set to open in Greater Kruger region Abelana Game Reserve is preparing to open its first accommodation offering - Abelana Safari Camp - set to commence operations in August this year. Bookings are now open for this intimate authentic tented camp that offers walking trails and horse safaris on the brand new 15,000ha Big Five reserve, owned by the Mashishimale community and leased by MTH Lodge Holdings in a ground-breaking sustainable conservation and eco-tourism partnership.

Conveniently located between the lowveld towns of Hoedspruit and Phalaborwa, adjacent to the Greater Kruger’s Balule Nature Reserve and neighbouring Selati Private Game Reserve, Abelana Game Reserve offers breathtaking landscapes dotted by towering granite outcrops and includes a 10km stretch of the semiperennial Selati river.

Abelana Safari Camp is located amongst the distinctive rock formations and koppies that dominate the southern section of the reserve and accommodates just eight guests in five Meru-style en-suite luxury tents. There’s also a central lounge and dining area, as well as a fire pit and 100 square metre viewing deck atop the koppie on which the camp is built, offering panoramic views of the entire reserve and the waterhole below. The camp has a light footprint with solar power and gas geysers and no large trees were removed during construction.

The area surrounding Abelana Safari Camp is perfect for exploring on foot and on horseback,

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and renowned South African trails guide and experienced guide trainer John Fouche will be leading guests on morning walking safaris and afternoon game drives.

Tamlyn Whitebread heads up horse safaris operating exclusively from Abelana Safari Camp.

A qualified guide and expert equestrienne, Tamlyn is well known for her role in pioneering the way forward for women in South Africa’s safari industry.

The first guests at Abelana Safari Camp will enjoy a rare experience as the only guests on the entire 15,000 hectare reserve until its second accommodation offering - the 20-room Makubu Lodge - opens early in 2020.

Rates for Abelana Safari Camp for 2019 are R3000 per person, per night sharing for walking trails, minimum two-night stay and R5500 per person, per night sharing for horse safaris; three and four night stay. These rates include all meals, tea and coffee and activities.

“Abelana means ‘to share amongst each other’ in the Northern Sotho language,” explains Ian Beauchamp, CEO of MTH Holdings and Abelana Game Reserve. “It’s fitting that we are sharing this lovely new camp and beautiful reserve both with the Mashishimale community and visitors from across the world looking for a truly authentic, intimate and sustainable African safari experience,” he adds.

www.abelanagamereserve.co.za

TOURISM NEWS

Natural Selection opens Tuludi Camp in the Okavango Delta This month saw the opening of Natural Selection’s most luxurious camp yet, Tuludi, in the game rich Khwai Private Reserve in the northern reaches of Botswana’s Okavango Delta.

Tuludi’s seven tree-house-esque tents sit on the edge of a vast flood plain, with expansive views of the wilderness ahead, including the camp’s very own hippo pod.

Tuludi’s design take is a whimsical reflection of the Okavango; its creatures, colours and bird life. Each of the seven tents covers an impressive 60m2 with king size or twin beds, lounge area and dressing room. The textiles are

by Ardmore, one of South-Africa’s most famous design studios. Well known for their playful, bold designs; their bush inspired textiles featuring leopards, monkeys and crocodiles are the perfect choice for Tuludi.

Handmade chandeliers featuring dip dyed rings of high thorn and jacaranda wood hang from the roof. Each room has its own bespoke piece of art featuring the flora and fauna of Tuludi by artist Sarah Kelly.

The space outside is as important as inside at Tuludi and each suite has a spacious deck, complete with a hanging chair for lazy afternoons. The private plunge pool in each suite is the perfect place to wallow on a warm afternoon. The bathrooms offer the best of both worlds, with inside double vanities and an outdoor shower and bath – with views of the bush ahead.

The main area is dominated by a handmade, mosaic tiled bar. Again, a whimsical depiction of life in the Okavango, it was made by the award winning artist Sarah Pryke of Fragments of Africa and features the iconic birds and mammals of the area. A lilac breasted roller swoops above a hippo who is keeping out of the way of a thirsty leopard. From the bar a selection of South Africa’s finest wines are served as well as a range of craft beers and artisan gins served with premium tonic waters.

The camp’s best kept secret though is most certainly the tree top library. Set high up in the canopy the library is the perfect place to curl up with a book and let the sounds of nature surround you. If this all sounds a bit too serious for a holiday then enjoy the quirky slide which links the library back down to the ground and is fun for both children and adults.

Meals at Tuludi are home cooked and hearty and served a la carte, with flexible and varied menus to suit all tastes. From freshly baked pastries to a cooked breakfast spread, brunch is a relaxed experience after a morning game drive. Dinner is an a la carte affair, served under the stars and all meals feature fresh, home-made goods from jams and juices to smoothies and sorbets. But meals in the bush always taste best and Tuludi often serve their brunch in the shade of leafy tree out in the bush.

The true joy of Tuludi though is its location.

Located to the central west of the sprawling 200,000 hectare Khwai Private Reserve, it is set in

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TOURISM NEWS the heart of the concession’s best game viewing area. The camp overlooks a natural wetland that is the first watering hole for wildlife coming down from the dry woodlands to the north of the Okavango looking to quench their thirst.

This means there is a steady flow of plains game, buffalo, giraffe, elephant and their predators making the daily journey to drink right in front of camp, year round.

Furthermore the eco-system at Tuludi comprises of both savannah and floodplain, meaning herds of zebra, prowling cheetah and marauding wild dog are as at home here as those who prefer wetter territory; waterbuck and lechwe.

The area around Tuludi is home to a resident leopard family, who are being monitored as part of the Khwai Private Reserve’s partnership with the Botswana Predator Conservation Trust.

With all this happening right in front of camp the temptation is certainly to stay behind and enjoy an armchair safari from the camp’s veranda but morning and afternoon game drives are rewarding in the capable hands of Tuludi’s expert guiding team.

The waterways are best experienced from a mokoro. Cruise along gently on the water and learn about the small things that are so easily missed from the 4x4 Landcruiser; reed frogs and dragonflies, lilies and malachite kingfishers.

For the adventurous walking safaris offer an opportunity to get closer to the sights and smells of the wilderness.

With every new camp Natural Selection opens they look for new ways to be part of the conservation solution and Tuludi is no exception.

The Khwai Reserve itself is a communitydriven concession in partnership with the local communities and the Khwai Development Trust. 1.5% of all revenue Natural Selection generates goes directly to conservation projects in the areas where they operate. In Khwai, they have partnered with the Botswana Predator Conservation Trust to collect data on the leopard population on the fringes of the reserve about which very little is currently known.

Natural Selection also work hand in hand with the team at Round River Conservation Studies and the Okavango Research Institute to develop new investigation and development techniques that will be used by land managers and researchers across Botswana. Natural Selection has also partnered with Coaching for Conservation, an outreach programme for children from disadvantaged backgrounds, which fosters self-respect, respect for each other 126 responsible traveller

and respect for wildlife and the environment.

The programme inspires learning in fun, active games from soccer to tag to ring toss.

Natural Selection has partnered with C4C, not only to support its work in rural areas, but to create visitor “classrooms” in the lodges where young visitors from overseas can partake in this integrated children’s conservation program. Young visitors can then bring Africa’s

TOURISM NEWS

conservation messages and the C4C online platform back to their overseas classrooms and begin a long-term relationship with Botswana, its wildlife and its local children.

Dave van Smeerdijk, co-founder and Director of Sales and Marketing at Natural Selection says; ‘’ The new camp is built to the highest standards yet has an incredibly light footprint on the environment. Not only does it look modern

and stylish but it is also makes use of the latest green innovations to ensure it is one of the most sustainable camps in the Okavango Delta.

The game viewing in the first week has been extraordinary; the first guests saw cheetah, lion and leopard on their first drive.’’

www.naturalselection.travel responsible traveller 127

TOURISM NEWS Natural Selection to open Kwessi Dune Lodge in the private NamibRand Reserve, Namibia in 2020 Natural Selection will open their next Namibian property, Kwessi Dune Lodge, on the 1st March 2020. The new property will be set in the vast 215,000 hectare NamibRand Nature Reserve, with easy access to Sossusvlei’s iconic rusty red sand dunes and the photogenic Deadvlei.

The NamibRand is a vast place of awe-inspiring beauty. One of the largest private reserves in southern Africa, it was the vision of Namibian farmer Albi Bruckner in the 1980s and was created from the integration of several livestock farms and the removal of the fences which divided the land. The barbed wire Bruckner removed was in fact long enough to stretch from Cape Town to Windhoek. The result was a protected wilderness area that today is a model of conservation success. For Natural Selection, it was the perfect location for their sixth Namibian property and an exciting opportunity to contribute to the conservation of this fragile ecosystem for generations to come.

When Kwessi Dune Lodge opens on the 1st March, it will bring Natural Selection’s low-key style and quirkiness to southern Namibia. The ten thatch and canvas rooms measure 88 square metres inside and out, and will feature vintage

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four-poster beds, striped canvas walls and a beautiful map mural feature wall. Each bedroom will also have an ensuite bathroom with both indoor and outdoor showers and a shaded, outdoor veranda. High thatched roofs and airconditioning will keep guests cool during the hot desert days.

But the rooms at Kwessi Dune Lodge really come into their own after the sun sets. Each room has been designed with a special “star gazer” room and every night there is the option to sleep outside, under the African night sky. In 2012 the NamibRand Nature Reserve was selected by the International Dark Sky Association as an official dark sky reserve on account of its low light pollution and cloudless night skies. It is one of the best places on earth to star gaze and enjoy spending the night under a canopy of twinkling stars. The guides at Kwessi Dune Lodge will help guests to tell their Southern Cross from their Orion’s Belt but if that all feels like too much hard work then counting shooting stars is a wonderful way to fall asleep.

The view from the lodge is spectacular and the glass windows and doors at the main area look out onto the undulating landscape that only

TOURISM NEWS ends when it meets the mountains, far in the distance. Inside, there’s a well-stocked bar, library area and several seating and dining areas. When the sun rises in the morning, the camp fire is the perfect place to enjoy a cup of tea and in the heat of the day, the swimming pool is the only place to be.

The days at Kwessi Dune Lodge are about discovering the subtle charms of the desert and the area can be explored on guided nature drives, nature walks and by quad bike. The NamibRand has long been famous for its “fairycircles”, mysterious patches of grass where nothing grows. Theories range that they are the result of poisonous fungi, termites or even meteor showers, however no one really knows.

Although the semi-arid desert may seem inhospitable, it is still home to an extraordinary variety of species who have found a way to survive and thrive. Take, for example, the gemsbok with their white bellies that reflect the heat of the sand and their sophisticated vascular system that cools the blood around the brain. Or the bat-eared fox whose giant ears help to amplify the sound of their predators approaching. Gemsbok, springbok, kudu and steenbok, can be found in most corners of the reserve, silhouetted against the red sand,

whilst elusive leopard and spotted hyena are occasionally seen.

A day trip to the iconic red dunes of Sossusvlei is not to be missed, in particular the chance to climb “Big Daddy” before dawn. Afternoons can then be spent exploring Deadvlei, an extraordinary pan of fossilised trees that stand against the startling red backdrop of the dunes – quite simply, a photographer’s dream.

For a completely different perspective of this extraordinary landscape, take to the skies in a tranquil hot air balloon ride as the sun rises.

As with all Natural Selection’s projects 1.5% of turnover will go straight back to conservation projects which directly impact the area. The new lodge will also make use of the latest clean and green technology, ensuring that it leaves as light a footprint as possible on the fragile environment.

Dave van Smeerdijk, co-founder and Director of Sales and Marketing at Natural Selection says, “With its iconic dunes and sprawling landscapes, this is one of the most spectacular desert areas in the world. The cool and comfortable lodge has a light footprint and is set on a vast private reserve to ensure exclusivity and close to Namib Naukluft’s iconic Sossusvlei.”

www.naturalselection.travel

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TOURISM NEWS Flight Centre Travel Group Launches New Brighter Futures CSI Programme The Flight Centre Travel Group South Africa launched its Brighter Futures programme on August 1, 2019. Brighter Futures will be the group’s new corporate social impact and engagement programme, combining the activities of the Flight Centre Foundation, Worldwise, Environmental Sustainability and FCTG People.

“The Flight Centre Travel Group (FCTG) Brighter Futures programme brings together everything we do as a company under one central element,” says Roxy Gonsalves, Recruitment Business Leader, who will head up the project in South Africa.

“Building brighter futures where we live, work and travel is one of the group’s most significant philosophies,” says Gonsalves. “The programme will make sure FCTG has an impact and will bring this philosophy to life.”

The group’s existing CSI projects will also fall under the FCTG Brighter Futures umbrella. The Flight Centre Foundation has been focussed on empowered giving. Associated projects, such as #kili4kids, the SolarBuddy solar lights initiative with the Adopt a School Foundation and Workplace Giving, encouraging Flight Centre employees to donate towards a CSI initiative, remain ongoing.

“We also take part in standalone CSI initiatives, such as Mandela Day. This year, Flight Centre stores nationwide got involved in making 101 items or giving 101 minutes of their time, due to the fact that Nelson Mandela would have celebrated his 101st birthday this year,” says Gonsalves. “Stores from across the country created care packs, collected 101 sanitary towels for teenage girls and deodorant for boys and made food parcels, amongst many other initiatives.”

Brighter Futures has partnered with the Adopt a School Foundation to work on more education and school projects.

“Andrew Stark, FCTG Managing Director Middle East and Africa believes education is so important in South Africa and, as a company, we wanted to partner with an organisation that feels the same,” says Gonsalves.

“The Adopt a School Foundation has a massive footprint just like us. We have worked closely with them in the past on various initiatives, such 130 responsible traveller

as our ongoing project at Qhobosheane Primary School in Soweto. #kili4kids and other events raise funds for the building of a library at the school.

“More collaborative socio-economic projects will be released later in the year,” says Gonsalves.

Events include a quiz night on September 6, 2019 at Randpark Ridge, with all proceeds being donated to the Qhobosheane Primary School library project.

A fundraiser movie night has also been planned on October 12. The beneficiaries and details will soon be confirmed.

Worldwise is now the second pillar in the FCTG Brighter Futures programme, and its focus is on responsible travel. Their work ensures that the group does not support activities such as elephant riding, Gonsalves explains. Tour routes and itineraries worldwide have already been changed to promote responsible travel, she notes.

FCTG People, the third pillar, is building brighter futures through egalitarianism and unity.

“The personal and professional development of our people will always be our number one goal to building brighter futures,” says Sam van Gool, Flight Centre Travel Group Peopleworks Leader.

“Our diversity across the board, 74% of females in senior management roles, fast track leadership development opportunities and the Flight Centre Business School all firmly empower and inspire our people towards success.”

FCTG Environmental Sustainability is the fourth pillar. “We aim to make our daily operations as environmentally friendly as possible by reducing, recycling and re-using everything from coffee cups to thinking about how much paper we use,” Gonsalves concludes.

www.fcfoundation.org.za

TOURISM NEWS Travel with Micato Safaris makes local education possible The community of Red Hill in the South Peninsula of Cape Town recently celebrated the official opening of its new library and renovated community centre.

The brand new and fully-equipped library, computer centre, and community centre were officially opened at a ribbon cutting ceremony attended by Solly Fourie, Head of Department of Economic Development and Tourism in the Western Cape, local councillors, community members, and visiting Micato-Safari guests from the United States. The ceremony was followed by a performance of children from the community and a praise singer.

“I am delighted that tourism can be a catalyst for both economic growth and social empowerment within this region. It is very rewarding to celebrate the implementation of successful community projects such as these, against the backdrop of the popular tourism route to Cape Point. It is recognised that the community project will support the development of skills in the community and I support the development of this initiative for a mutually sustainable economic endeavour,” says Solly Fourie, Head of Department of Economic Development and Tourism, Provincial Government Western Cape.

Funded by Micato Safaris and its philanthropic arm, AmericaShare, the project partnered with the Red Hill Development Forum and Red Hill Literacy Project to establish a new library and computer centre. Part of the project also included the renovation and refurbishment of the existing community centre. The centre is a multi-purpose space that brings much needed resources like computers, books, and educational and skills development programmes to residents.

The library is also staffed by a full-time librarian from the community who received training and in-service experience.

“Micato-AmericaShare’s educational outreach in East Africa has long inspired us to find a community in Southern Africa where we could have a lasting impact,” says Lorna Macleod, founder and executive director of MicatoAmericaShare, “and when we first visited Red Hill last year, we knew we had found our place. We’re very excited about working with the people of Red Hill to provide educational resources such as this library.”

Chris Owen-Collett, general manager of Micato Safaris in South Africa explains: “We saw the potential in Red Hill as an under-serviced

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TOURISM NEWS community and started a consultation process with community stakeholders. Now after nearly a year we are happy to celebrate the opening with the community and other stakeholders that have made this project possible.”

Luyando Lombo of the Red Hill Development Forum says: “This collaboration has brought light to our community. Scholars are able to do their homework and research in the library, it provides a great environment for their education and homework clubs. The Forum is also benefiting from having a productive space in which to meet.

This project has uplifted the entire community by making resources available to everybody.”

David Tyrrell, one of the founders of the Red Hill Literacy Project, believes the top of the range library and learning centre will have a great impact: “This will make a huge difference to the lives of all the Red Hill residents and enable them to achieve their educational objectives.”

The centre will also provide continued adult education and literacy development.

The Red Hill informal settlement is tucked away in the mountains en route to Cape Point and is home to approximately 1,500 disadvantaged households, most living well below the poverty line.

“It is ironic that Red Hill is situated on a tourist route which sees more than a million visitors to Cape Point every year. Most tourists and even locals are not aware of this vibrant and close-knit community” says Owen-Collett, “this project is an example of how responsible tourism and travel with a purpose can drive positive change in lesser privileged communities.”

For more than three decades, AmericaShare has been dedicated to improving lives through

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education. It’s core initiatives include the Harambee Community Centre in Nairobi’s Mukuru Slum, where a state-of-the-art lending library, computer resource centre, special needs classroom, sports programmes, and other resources are made available to the community; a School Sponsorship Programme that matches orphaned and vulnerable children with Micato travellers, who sponsor the children to attend boarding school; and the Micato One for One Commitment: For every safari they sell, Micato pays the fees required to send an African child to school—a child who would otherwise stay home due to extreme poverty.

“Micato guests are actively involved in our community projects and the Red Hill Library is our first project in South Africa where our guests can visit and engage with the community. It is a centre for sharing and learning from each other – opening minds and broadening horizons for all” explains Owen-Collett.

Adds Macleod, “Nelson Mandela said it best: “Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world”, and through the Red Hill Library we look forward to being part of this wonderful community for years to come.”

Locals wishing to get involved are welcome, according to local librarian Ethel Tshandu; “We need volunteers to get involved with the various projects we will be running. Locals can assist with homework and reading lessons as well as adult literacy and skills development. Your time is a valuable investment in the future of our community,” says Tshandu.

www.micato.com www.americashare.org

A glimpse of

ZANZIBAR

I

t was a fleeting visit, but more than enough to introduce me to the soft sandy beaches, warm azure ocean and wide smiles of the Zanzibari people. On top of that, the warm hospitality of the luxurious Diamonds La Gemma dell’Est ensured that I left a tiny part of my heart in this tropical Indian Ocean Island.

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We were here for a brief introduction to the beautiful Spice Islands and to celebrate the new direct flights by Mango Airlines into Zanzibar from South Africa’s Lanseria Airport.

In addition to this, the visit gave travel agents an idea of what their clients could expect with some fantastic special offers that AfricaStay, the Zanzibar specialists, and PlanHotel, our hosts, had compiled for the occasion.

The lengthy hour-or-so drive from the airport had me in local mode… a man held a huge fish aloft on the back of a small truck selling the day’s catch, while cars, taxis, trucks and Dala136 responsible traveller

Dala’s (the local transport) jostled with one another for space on the road. Both young and old rode motorbikes or bicycles, while some took to ox drawn wagons and others strode along on foot.

I delighted as roadside traders seemed to haggle with one another, their tables laden with bananas, pawpaw and other tropical fruit and vegetables, children played in the sandy patches between homes and women, adorned in colourful abayas, walked together, chatting away. Coconut palms swayed in the breeze, silhouetted against the late afternoon

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The beach at La Gemma

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sky and indigenous forests gave way to rice paddy fields and subsistence crops… and as we neared our destination in the north of the island, glimpses of the ocean came into view.

The day was still hot so the chilled fragrant facecloths and iced hibiscus tea on arrival at Diamonds La Gemma dell’Est were most welcome. As was the serenity of my beautiful suite that overlooked the garden… time for a spot of hydration from the mini-bar and a quick munch on fresh local fruit then it was time for the beach. The beach, after all is what any visit to Zanzibar generally revolves around.

The sand was soft and the G&T perfect. I took a deep breath and relaxed as the suns last rays kissed the warm Indian Ocean goodnight turning it a silvery grey. Time for a quick freshen up before cocktails on the jetty at the Pavilion Restaurant followed by a traditional Swahili dinner on the beach and under Zanzibar’s night sky.

An early morning beach walk yielded spiky sea urchins, which I was warned against touching by a local man punting Felice Tours… not daunted by my tight schedule and lack of business opportunities for him, he continued to chat as we walked along the beach. He told me not to fret over the numerous starfish that were beached by the low tide and explained that they can remain out of water for a few hours waiting for the tide to turn and envelop them once again. There were red ones, speckled ones and even chocolate brown ones – I’m sure he was amused by my fascination at something so common to him.

Dhows bobbed on the water waiting for their helmsmen, whilst sleek yachts stood by as their occupants slept off the partying of the night before. Lobster baskets sat waiting as fishermen readied themselves for the day. Just another perfect day paradise…

But paradise would have to wait as we were here to learn about PlanHotel Hospitality Group and their extensive selection of hotels and resorts, from right here in exotic Zanzibar to the shores of mainland Tanzania and Kenya. From the sandy beaches of Mozambique and the Maldives to a hillside location on the shores of Lake Lugano in Switzerland and a renovated 15th-century mansion in Tuscany, Italy.

The PlanHotel story doesn’t just cover hospitality – something that they’re exceptionally good at and strive for excellence in, they also encompass caring for the environment and their local 140 responsible traveller

communities. They are champions in sustainable tourism practices in East Africa and are proud to be a member of ‘Ecotourism Kenya’. And their initiatives include marine conservation projects in the Maldives and community projects in Mozambique and Zanzibar - in addition to this, employing local and empowering local communities is high on their priority list.

A fitting end to our #MagicalZanzibar experience was a gala dinner under the stars at the Baobab Conference centre – an aesthetically pleasing architectural masterpiece - add to this beautifully plated cuisine and lively music performed by local musicians. There were speeches by Minister Mahmoud Kombo, Zanzibar’s Tourism Minister

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Views across the beautiful beach at La Gemma

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‘Besides it’s beautiful beaches and warm sea, Zanzibar conjures up visions of Stone Town with its narrow streets, bustling trade and hidden treasures, its nooks and crannies that invite exploration and roof-top bars with expansive views ...’ and PlanHotel Group Vice President, Paolo Rosso, who gave us some insight into his love for Africa and the tourism industry, which incidentally started as a tour leader in Kenya.

“To succeed, we believe that we must be players, not spectators. When we uncover a problem that affects the quality of our service, we have the personal responsibility to solve it. When we discover a way to improve our operation, we have the personal authority to implement it. Our employees pledge themselves to the achievement of complete guest satisfaction and are dedicated to the excellence in operation of our hotels,” explains Paolo Rosso.

Besides its beautiful beaches and warm sea, for most of us Zanzibar conjures up visions of sailors, spice traders and richly adorned sultans… and Stone Town with its narrow streets, bustling trade and hidden treasures, its nooks and crannies that invite exploration and roof-top bars with expansive views. And, as no visit to Zanzibar would be complete without this experience, we managed a quick whizz through these intriguing streets on our way to the airport – far too short to appreciate it to the full but just enough to ensure another lengthier visit is planned. •

www.planhotel.com www.africastay.com 144 responsible traveller

The sights and experiences of Stone Town

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Responsible Tourism WHAT DOES IT ACTUALLY MEAN?

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words & pics supplied - Mike Tavares - United Consulting responsible traveller 147

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ravellers are, generally, curious people. And so they have plenty of questions, especially when it comes to responsible tourism. We want to stimulate debate around responsible tourism, encourage activism and get people thinking. But we also want to show how responsible tourism is so not about having a guilt trip. It is about opening up people’s eyes to the wonderfully ethical ways to travel in the world, but ways that still tap into our dreams.

Going on holiday should always be exciting.

The escape, the exploration and, of course, the welcome rest. A responsible holiday is no exception. When you take a responsible holiday, you are ensuring that the money you spend stays locally, which might mean staying in a family owned lodge on the edge of a lake, instead of a multinational chain behind gates. Discovering eclectic eateries which not only source their food close to home but also celebrate local cuisine as part of their culture. This might be in a remote valley in South Africa, a mountain village in Morocco; a beach café in the Mauritius or visiting the Bijagos Island with a local like “Adelino da Costa” from the Dakosta Island Beach Camp, who shares all his local secret spots.

First and foremost, as soon as you remember that you are visiting people’s homes, and see them as hosts rather than homogenous holiday providers, you become more responsible tourists.

By respecting people who live in the places you visit on your travels, and engage with them in an open, dignified way you are opening yourself up to the possibilities of more heartfelt holidays.

You will learn why the Maasai elder became a conservationist rather than a poacher. You will hear a Botswanan safari guide serenade you with songs as he pushes you in a dugout canoe across the Okavango Delta. Or simply watching Barbara from Zambia, a mother of two preparing a packed lunch for her kids, and kissing them before they go to school. It’s the everyday stuff that moves us on our travels.

communities such as Mozambique after the cyclone Idai, Nairobi after the hotel attack back in January or indeed Angola, still mid economic crisis, is humbling to witness. But also, imperative to support.

Some aspects of tourism invoke more emotions than others of course. The obvious disparity in wealth is one. The exploitation of children is another. The crushing of a community or culture can also be devastating. And the recovery of 148 responsible traveller

Tourism is often cited as being the most important employer in tourism destinations and, therefore, a force for good. We agree with this,

The reality is that we can all be responsible tourists – it is easy. If you are camping in the Bijagos Islands, cruising in South Africa or chilling in Tanzania, as long as you support local people, respect their culture and go easy on their homelands, you are being responsible. It’s easy because it is just common sense.

but when the employer pays below a living wage or offers unreasonable employment conditions, imports people and services rather than sourcing them locally, tourism can be perceived by local people as a new form of colonialism – or at worst, slavery. Responsible tourism is about putting people in the destinations first. Their livelihoods, their landscapes, their learnedness and their living culture.

For United, business is not just about profit, it is also about giving our contribution to make our continent a better place. There are many tourism companies around the world putting people before profit, and sometimes we are not celebrated in the way it should be. As a company

representing Africa as a whole, we recognise the importance of responsible tourism moving throughout the tourism industry, not just at the grassroots.

We hope that all of the above helps to define responsible tourism for you. In short, responsible tourism is about creating better places to live in and better places to visit. The order of that sentence is key. Creating benefits for our hosts comes first. Then, when our hosts are happy, we, the guests, will be too. Because, all in all, we recognise that responsible tourism is a win win situation. • Mike Tavares

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ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY COMPANIES MUST LEAD FROM THE TOP words supplied - Jane Dutton

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hile many companies have a green consciousness, the ultimate success of any workplace-driven initiatives will rise or fall by the level at which these energise employees to engage willingly with the concept. The strength of a company’s commitment to being “green” will only become a thing of corporate pride if every single staff member is seen to promote and uphold it, and that starts at the very top. Management at the most senior level must operate by example and make it personal to themselves. Policies alone won’t drive the practice, and it’s often not where it should start.

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Create the spark through information Subtly igniting ideas and participation, rather than imposing policies from the top, can be the most effective way to drive a company towards a united environmental front. This can effectively be triggered through a “think global, act local” approach to educating employees on key environmental messages around global warming, energy efficiency or even the effect of a carbon footprint, and then bringing it closer to home. It could begin by creating time within the company calendar to educate employees around environmental issues. And make it fun.

Bring in professional speakers with interesting talks; run team building events around greening initiatives outside the workplace; create ‘lunch and learn’ hours during which employees could watch interesting documentaries (many of which can be accessed free via the internet); start to place messaging around the office that promotes recycling (and provide bins) or about reducing electricity or water usage. Plant the seeds, so to speak.

Give credit where it is due while scoring points for management Quite often, conversations around sustainability begin among staff members themselves, as something they bring to the workplace because it’s something they already feel quite passionate about. In cases such as these, the quicker senior management picks up on and runs with a green concept for the company – and gives credit where credit is due to the employees themselves who started the conversation – the quicker the rest of the company will get on board.

And top brass gets kudos, too, for having acknowledged the important contribution that staff members have made towards starting the initiative. It demonstrates that the company places value in the ideas of its employees, thus enhancing workplace morale – and ensures buy in from other staff members, rather than them just seeing green as another “task” imposed from top down.

Establish a Green Team to provide guidelines and rewards Whether or not the initiative starts at staff or management level, there will be individuals within the organisation that feel stronger about the environment than others. Seek them out to establish a Green Team to drive the project and come up with guidelines that they feel their colleagues will buy into. As part of these, invite them to also come up with benefits that staff

who embrace the guidelines can gain from in one form or another. Incentivise staff by giving out gift vouchers to those that demonstrate a commitment to reducing the company footprint; some companies, for example, provide monthly subsidies for those who are prepared to take public transportation to work; or install showers, change rooms, lockers and bicycle racks for those willing to exchange four motorised wheels for two human-powered ones.

Put your company money where your mouth is It’s not all about staff-driven initiatives, and ideas to make day-to-day changes in the workplace; it’s also about senior management committing towards the green economy in major ways. The obvious choices usually deal with alternative energy sources in the workplace, and these are still valid: the installation of water-saving devices, or lights that work on motion detectors or even retrolifting entire buildings where this is possible.

It’s also about other capital investments made, often on a regular basis, to equip a company with the tools it uses to conduct business. According to reports published by Global Action Plan (a UKbased charity that tackles environmental issues), computers and other technologies account for 3- to 4% of the world’s carbon emissions – more than the entire aviation industry. Therefore, when the time comes to buying new computers, tablets or cell phones, consciously choose hardware that uses less toxic chemicals.

In large companies, it’s often the data centres where powerful servers are housed that are the most hectic environmental culprits. Greenpeace has a list of the worst offenders in the technology landscape, so ensure your procurement department is aware of these and avoid them if you can. And make your staff aware of your own monetary commitment towards a greener workplace and how it will benefit them too.

Finally, place it into Policy These are all roads that can be taken to demonstrate management has a serious commitment towards driving a company and its employees towards a greener future, but at the end of the day, they are initiatives that need to become a blueprint for the company.

With your employees on board behind you, a green policy becomes an important tool to enhance customer relationships and achieve business targets. And from this, everyone in the organisation scores. • Jane Dutton responsible traveller 151

15 AMAZING COUNTRIES Countless amazing responsible tourism experiences

If you’re a traveller who’s concerned about the impacts of your travels, then Southern Africa is the destination for you. In the three years that the African Responsible Tourism Awards has been running, a whopping 46 awards have been

handed to tourism organisations from Southern African countries. Some have gone to shine on the global stage, with southern African countries having racked up 11 wins at the World Responsible Tourism Awards since 2015.

ANGOLA

BOTSWANA

DRC

LESOTHO

MADAGASCAR

MALAWI

MAURITIUS

MOZAMBIQUE

NAMIBIA

SEYCHELLES

SOUTH AFRICA

SWAZILAND

TANZANIA

ZAMBIA

ZIMBABWE

The Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern Africa (RETOSA) is a Southern African Development Community (SADC) body responsible for the development of tourism and regional destination marketing across the 15 Southern Africa countries. www.retosa.co.za