Responsible Traveller mag - edition 2 - 2020

R E S P O N S I B L E edition 2 – 2020

be the difference

Beach & Bush

Safari in Kruger • Beach time in Thailand • Conservation & communities in KZN •

CELEBRATING RESPONSIBLE TOURISM SINCE 2008

LEARN. LAUGH. LOCAL. THAILAND AWAITS.

These feelings are waiting for you to come back.

Amazing Thailand South Africa Facebook Link https://www.facebook.com/amazingthailandinsouthafrica/ For further information, contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s representative office based in Johannesburg: Tel+27 11463 8195 fax:+27 463 8196, email info@lscpr.co.za

Comment

Welcome to another edition of Responsible Traveller.

It is with much pleasure that I write this... travel is at last beginning to open up and soon we’ll be travelling again. Keeping in mind all the saftey precautions and regulations that are expected of us , remembering to #BeTravelWise In this edition we explore beach and bush - from the stunningly beautiful beaches in Thailand at Robinson Club Khao Lak, Thavorn Resorts in Phuket and go barefoot luxury at Zeavola Resort on Phi Phi Island. Locally, I stroll a remote stretch of beach on the Mozambique mainland - courtesy of MSC Orchestra and then grab my binocs and camera for a safari experience at Jock Safari Lodge in the Kruger National Park. I get excited about the Babanango Game Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal that is commited to conservation and community.

Check out the humpback dolphins of Gansbaai on an ocean safari, and learn why conservation has become more about people than animals. Catch up on other conservation news as well as some exciting new tourism offerings - just to whet your appetite for travel.

But as always, the responsibility of being a responsible traveller lies ultimately with the person travelling and the choices they make. In this ‘post’ Covid era, let’s keep making a difference in people’s lives, at home and when we travel.

Remember to stay, shop, experience and eat local and to search for the off the beaten track sites and experiences - many small businesses are depending on you. This all goes a long way in helping to provide employment, contributing to the local economy and making a difference in people’s lives. By choosing to have conversations with locals and experiencing the ‘real’ destination, you add value and return home with irreplaceable memories.

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

Tessa Magazine Information edition 2- 2020 Publisher / Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Responsible Traveller Magazine Celebrating responsible tourism since 2008

Digital Subscriptions www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Cover Image: Robinson Club Khao Lak, Thailand pic - Tessa Buhrmann Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents REGULARS:

03 Comment Being a Responsible Traveller 0

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DESTINATIONS & PLACES TO STAY: Jock Safari Lodge, a safari par excellence 08 Sawasdee Ka Thailand, where life’s a beach 26

• Robinson Khao Lak 28

• Thavorn Palm Beach Resort

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• Thavorn Beach Village Resort & Spa

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• Zeavola Resort 48

Finding ‘me time’ on a crowded cruise liner 86 Journey across the Sahel 102

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CONSERVATION : Conservation... more about people than animals 66 Babanango Game Reserve, the fulfilment of a dream Humpback dolphins of Gansbaai

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NEWS: Conservation & Community News 108

• Shotspotter helps reduce rhino poaching in KNP

• Jock Safari partners with Wilderness Foundation Africa

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• Unfair Game - canned lion hunting and more revealed

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• The buck stops at Vergelegen 114

Tourism News 118

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• Singita Sabora Tented Camp

• Marataba Conservation Camp

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• Paarl & Wellington receive Safety Stamp of Approval

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• KwaXolo Caves Adventyres on the KZN South Coast opens 127

www.responsibletraveller.co.za

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More than just a dive, our marine biologists share their knowledge & adventures on each trip!

Not just another whale watching trip.

Experience the Marine Big 5 in their natural habitat, around the world famous Dyer Island ecosystem.

In association with Volkswagen Focused on the conservation and protection of the endangered African Penguin & other Sea birds.

African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary - APSS

Offering marine enthusiasts a range of life-changing experiences, designed to improve their skills and employability prospects.

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

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JOCK SAFARI LODGE 08 responsible traveller

Words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

a safari experience, par excellence ...in more ways than one responsible traveller 09

T

The headlights reveal an indistinct shape in the darkness ahead.

As the inky darkness dissipates the determined stride of an elusive feline becomes apparent. It was our last morning game drive and the sight of her made the early wake-up call worthwhile. We followed slowly for a while, but she soon slipped into the grass – had she not been walking in the road we would have driven straight past. Such is the nature of game drives.

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This wonderful story permeates much at Jock Safari Lodge, from the life-size sculpture of the fearless Jock giving a treacherously horned sable antelope a run for his money, to the wonderful selection of original memorabilia on display as well as a nod to Sir Percy’s wagon driver and proud Zulu warrior, Jim, with the upstairs bar being named after him.

The getting here was easy with a direct Joburg-Skukuza Airlink flight followed by an informative game drive to the lodge with safari guide, Ike. Main Jock Lodge comprises twelve secluded thatched suites all set within the well-treed grounds, with reed walls and lush vegetation ensuring privacy. My suite is breathtakingly, with a king-size bed dressed in crisp white linen and a soft draping of mosquito net.

A gentle breeze and dappled sunlight stream into the room, a bottle of bubbly waits expectantly in an ice bucket. The soft natural tones of the décor complement the setting perfectly. I step onto my private deck, complete with claw-foot bath for romantic under-thestars-bathing, plunge pool and Sala – the outdoor day bed offering the perfect spot for birdwatching or to read the well-loved copy of Jock that I find in my suite.

I drag myself away from my beautiful suite and head to the main dining area for lunch, only to be distracted by the expansive views over the Biyamiti riverbed and a pair of saddlebilled storks hunting for a tasty treat in a pool nearby. After a light salad lunch and chilled Chardonnay, we slowly make our way to reception to meet Jan our game ranger.

This is Big Five territory, so we were wildly expectant…

A rhino midden shows evidence of fresh activity, the dry riverbed criss-crossed with spoor – a veritable highway for buffalo, antelope, and a host of other game. I am delighted to spot a juvenile ground hornbill.

I was spending a few days at the luxurious Jock Safari Lodge, a private concession within the Kruger National Park, nestled at the confluence of the Mitomeni and Biyamiti rivers. Jock was in fact the first private concession to be awarded within the Park and is named after the legendary Jock, the canine hero in Sir Percy FitzPatrick’s book, Jock of the Bushveld - a story of courage and loyalty set during South Africa’s first gold rush era.

Jan tells us that ground hornbills are under threat and that there are two active nest sites in the large jackalberry trees (Diospyros mespiliformis) that grow on the riverbanks. As part of the Ground Hornbill Project, camera traps have been installed at these nesting sites and all the activities, habits and aspects of the hornbill’s life have been recorded, from mating to the fledglings leaving the nest. I scan the trees, but to no avail. responsible traveller 11

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Jan finds a vantage point and sets up the drinks table. With G&T in hand I watch the sun slip below the horizon, a marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea) a dramatic silhouette against the burnt orange of the sky. A full moon slowly rises, and we watch a herd of elephant slip quietly into the gloom.

Dinner in the boma later that evening was a festive affair, with South African wine flowing, a great selection of African inspired cuisine accompanied by great conversation and much laughter.

Growing up my Mom had always told me that ‘the early bird captures the worm’ – her attempt at getting a teenager to leap out of bed early and make the most of the morn. She would have been proud of the enthusiasm I exhibit when an early game drive beckons. I am already awake when Jan gives me the agreed upon 4am wake-up call, dressed in two ticks, armed with camera and binoculars I head to the dining area for coffee and homemade rusks.

We head through the concession, into the main Kruger Park area. A delight at this early hour of the morning as it is well before the crowds arrive. The sun is just a promise on the horizon when we spot lion in the distance. A male and three females. We spend a good hour watching as they enjoy the warmth of the tar road, quite oblivious to our presence bar the occasional glance and flick of the tail. As the sun begins to rise, so does their interest, the one lioness giving us a

determined, ‘are you breakfast?’ kind of stare. I am glad to be in the safety of a game viewing vehicle.

They eventually rise and saunter down the road. Ears perk up, there are impala ahead… will there be action? We wait with bated breath.

The lionesses engage tactical mode, each heading according to a preassigned plan. The impala scatter to safety and the sauntering continues. In a way I am quite relieved.

A quiet private road beckons and we are rewarded by a herd of elephant crossing in front of us, the little ones scurrying between a forest of legs. They quickly melt into the bush.

During our coffee and cookies break, Jan explains that as part of the unofficial antipoaching team Jock vehicles are allowed on some of the private roads as additional eyes and ears. And while conservation within the Kruger Park is the responsibility of SANParks, it is also supported by the Jock Environmental Monitoring Unit (JEMU), a small non-combative monitoring unit that provides the section rangers with current, accurate information on suspicious activity in the area, as well as environmental incidences.

Breakfast is a relaxed affair. Fresh fruit, pancakes, and a continental spread fit for a king. The bubbly is chilled and the coffee brewing, a waitress discusses the hot breakfast options with us. Blessing and his team certainly know how to keep their guests satisfied. responsible traveller 13

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Zilwa Attitude

Coffee in hand, I head up to the bar, ‘Upstairs at Jim’s’, to meet with Jock Safari General Manager, Louis Strauss.

carrying mosquitoes and man-eating lion were outwitted. They hunted for the pot and slept under a star-studded canopy, the African sky.

Sitting amidst memorabilia of the bygone days of gold diggings, big game hunters and intrepid explorers, Louis tells me of the history of the region. When adventurers like Irish born FitzPatrick traversed the rugged Lowveld and escarpment and crossed what is now the Kruger National Park, to the exotic African port of Delagoa Bay (now known as Maputo in Mozambique).

Putting nostalgia aside, Louis tells me that Jock Safari Lodge is owned by the non-profit CALEO Foundation, whose aim is to preserve and protect the 6000ha’s which make up the concession. Remaining true to the overall conservation ethic of the Caleo Foundation and in order to preserve this unique heritage for future generations, Jock is committed to maintaining a low impact on the environment and was built on the existing footprint of an old bush camp following stringent ecomanagement criteria. Bi-annual auditing by Kruger National Park and DEAT (Department of Environment and Tourism) ensure continued adherence.

Percy FitzPatrick, ably assisted by his constant companion Jock, transported provisions from the coast to the gold-digging villages. Ox wagons trundled over rugged hills and across plains, whilst crocodile infested rivers, malaria 16 responsible traveller

Our conversation moves to antipoaching and the scourge it is to wildlife and tells me more about JEMU. Not only do they assist with antipoaching monitoring, but they also support teams of conservationists in managing the rhino poaching crisis as well as providing a variety of much-needed supplies such as GPS equipment, camera technology and water supplies to both man and dog during operations.

Conservation is high on the agenda too, with several research projects operating within the concession. One of these being the Savanna Vulture Project. The Kruger National Park is home to five species of vulture: the lappetfaced vulture, Cape vulture, white-headed vulture, hooded vulture, and the white-backed vulture, all of which are on the endangered or

critically endangered list. The project assessed the population status, breeding success and survival of these vulture species in the Park, the results of which have assisted in guiding conservation actions for these birds in Southern Africa.

Louis tells me about the Percy FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology who in a 2011 monitoring project, in collaboration with HawkWatch International and the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), identified a whopping 60% decrease in the martial eagle population.

To lose these incredibly majestic large raptors would be a tragedy indeed.

Thirty of the 66 tree top nests identified throughout the Park were monitored through digital cameras and GPS tagging. And recently responsible traveller 17

Jock sponsored a GPS tag which was deployed on an adult female – it will be interesting to follow her progress as she continues to contribute to research and conservation.

In addition to the Black Rhino Guardian Programme and Lion research into the impact of bovine tuberculosis on the lion populations within the Kruger, Jock, due to its location, has also been able to support the EWT’s African Wild Dog research through camera traps set up on the Concession.

A species that has continues to elude me on every visit to Kruger is the wild dog - also known as the African hunting dog, Cape hunting dog, African painted dog, painted hunting dog and painted wolf.

These dogs have disappeared from much of their former range due to habitat loss, diseases like rabies and distemper and persecution by human beings and are now classified as endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Wild dogs have often been branded as merciless, cruel, and indiscriminate killers and considered as vermin, but through research and education many of these prejudices have now been dispelled.

People, and the local community matter at Jock, so much so that in addition to the 95% of staff that come from the poor communities located on the western boundary of 20km of Kruger, they have been instrumental in establishing and supporting a number of local entrepreneurs.

One of these is Florence Bila, who has worked at Jock since 2005 and now, through her business Bila Baking, bakes approximately 60kg of assorted cookies and rusks for the lodge every month. Thoko Khoza was able to start her business, TT Sewing, when Jock purchased a sewing machine for her so that she could supply the table linen for the lodge.

Another is George Makhubela, who has worked as maintenance supervisor at Jock since 2002, and now with his waste -recycling enterprise collects, sorts, and removes recyclable waste from the lodge to the recycling depot in Malelane. Each of the entrepreneurs supports and gives back to their local community in a variety of ways – with George taking great pleasure in buying food and blankets for the homeless in Malelane.

Jock also supports a number of businesses in the community, such as the taxi business that, in addition to transporting staff to and 18 responsible traveller

from the lodge, offers a valuable service within the community; Josiah Ndlovu who sources firewood for the lodge (being a concession, the collection of indigenous wood for burning is forbidden); and Sibongile Nkosi, who supplies traditional brooms for use by Jock Safari groundsmen. An often-overlooked benefit of supporting local is the additional employment that it creates – each person employed generally supports about 10 people.

Creating opportunities for learnership and selfdevelopment is another way of contributing to local communities. Starting with programmes to bring kids from local schools into the reserve for a day during quite periods enabling them to understand the value of conservation and wildlife tourism.

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As Nobel Peace Laureate Wangari Muta Maathai says, ‘You cannot protect the environment unless you empower people, you inform them, and you help them understand that these resources are their own, that they must protect them.’

A recent development is an official long-term partnership with the Wilderness Foundation Africa to further conservation education and youth development within the broader community of the Kruger National Park. These range from anti-poaching and large landscape wilderness management, to developing young leaders from disadvantaged communities for a career in conservation.

“Have you met Ike?” Louis asks. And proceeds to tell me his story… Ike Mkansi joined Jock in January 2014 as a barman. And true to Jock’s philosophy of promotion from within he was soon promoted to Food and Beverage Supervisor, followed by a move to Assistant Food and Beverage Manager. Aware that Ike’s passion was for the bush Jock enabled him, through their learnership programme, to join the Eco Ranger Academy to complete his National Certificate in Tourism Guiding.

With his great smile and passion for the bush he was a great introduction to our Jock Safari experience.

Another success story is that of Head Chef Sam Mkhatshwa, who started at Jock in 2001 as a junior chef, a job that sometimesincluded washing pots! He is now the master mind behind much of the delectable safari cuisine and is a great inspiration to his team, uplifting and motivating them to maintain the consistently high standard of safari dining I had become accustomed to.

Seeing Sam at the braai (barbeque) I know that our lunch was in capable hands – being a dab hand at the braai, he soon had chicken kebabs and steak sizzling to perfection. A marvellous spread of salads, freshly baked bread and a delicious broccoli soup sealed the deal.

The diversity of fauna and flora in the concession attracts an abundance of bird species, especially during the summer months, which is a delight for birdwatchers. Regularly seen on the concession are raptors such as the martial, tawny and fish eagles, as well as steppe buzzards, along with a wide variety of bushveld birds. The tranquil atmosphere and wooded surroundings at the lodge allows for unique birding opportunities – all one must do is take the time to slow down, listen and begin 20 responsible traveller

‘The wildlife in this region of Kruger National Park is wonderfully diverse.

From herds of elephants and the occasional rhino, to lions, leopard, hyena, and wild dog....’

to truly observe. Commonly seen are hornbills, starlings, boubou’s, shrikes, and woodpeckers to name but a few.

The wildlife in this region of Kruger National Park is wonderfully diverse. From herds of elephants and the occasional rhino, to lions, leopard, hyena, and wild dog. A wide variety of antelope from kudu with their magnificently stately horns, to herds of impala and cute, but skittish duiker. Giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, and buffalo, sometimes as a herd but more often as lonesome dagga boys.

As much as the Big Five should never be the focus of a game drive, it certainly adds a bit of

a challenge. So far, we had ticked off elephant, rhino (never divulge their physical location, and please remember to remove the geotagging option on your photos) and lion. Jan suggested we head south for the buffalo, and maybe we will be lucky and spot leopard and possible even hyena.

We see plenty of zebra, wildebeest, and more ground hornbill. A couple of dagga boys give us ‘the look’ and we get excited about a leopard relaxing in a faraway tree – barely visible through binoculars, so does it actually count?

With darkness settling in our search turns to nocturnal creatures. A nightjar on the road ahead of us tempts fate, taking flight at the last responsible traveller 21

moment, we spot the night-shine eye reflection of plains game, a fleeting glimpse of an eagle owl as it takes flight and two hyena in the gutter alongside the road.

Well wined and dined, and Big Five ticked, I decide to make the most of my last night and sleep in my sala - not quite beneath the starts, but almost. Feeling quite safe under the net covering I listen to the sounds of the wild.

The smooth rhythmical sound of the nightjar and the distant ‘whooping’ call of the spotted hyena, to the screeching sound of a resident barn owl, which eventually has me packing up and heading indoors. The nearby roar of a lion makes me justified in my decision.

The highlight of our safari experience comes early the next morning after another bright and early wake-up call… a leopard in the road ahead of us, the elusive feline that is a highpoint of any safari.

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She moves into the grass and lies down, wonderfully camouflaged, and almost out of sight. We watch and we wait. Soon to be rewarded as she lazily gets up and crosses the road in front of us, the dawn shadows still long.

She pauses at a culvert, a favourite home of warthog, Jan tells us. She waits, but to no avail and gracefully moves into the bush.

We too move on, and a short distance away are rewarded by a fabulous sighting of a family of spotted hyena, the adults as ugly as ever, but the three young cubs appear exceptionally cute and cuddly. Unperturbed, the cubs lie in the road watching us with their deep dark eyes.

They tire of us after a while and slink back into the bush to their den.

The radio crackles and Jan listens, the other Jock vehicle has spotted the leopard again. An

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abrupt U-turn has us heading back to where we came from. The sun is up, and crowds have arrived, so its easy to spot where the she is.

Fortunately, with Jan’s affinity to the bush and extensive knowledge he correctly assumes that she would cross the road and positions our vehicle in the perfect position.

Still on the hunt, she inspects every hole and mound of grass with interest, pausing she looks up and listens. We watch in awe as this beautiful feline walks right beside our vehicle, she attempts to cross the road but is disturbed

by the traffic jam and moves back into the bush. Disappointing, on a number of levels.

We head to a rocky koppie (hill) for our coffee stop. The wide-open plains and distant hills are those that Percy FitzPatrick and Jock had traversed, and I wonder if their wagons had perhaps trudged up this very hill.

So much history, so many stories… and such a great conservation legacy. •

www.jocksafarilodge.com responsible traveller 25

Sa w a s d e e K a …

Thailand, where life’s a beach

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ith Thailand’s extensive coastline and myriad of islands, visitors to this wonderful destination are spoilt for choice. From off the beaten track resorts and city hotels to barefoot luxury island getaways. My hubby and I had the privilege of visiting last year, and I now understand why it is a favourite destination for so many – and why so many return, time after time.

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words - Tessa Buhrmann pics - Tessa & Daryl Buhrmann responsible traveller 27

ROBINSON CLUB KHAO LAK 28 responsible traveller

After a long and somewhat tiring flight via Dubai we arrived at Phuket International to the welcome of sultry night air and the promise of a tropical paradise. We arrived at the Robinson Club Khao Lak just before midnight to a warm welcome, easy check-in, and a late snack supper before tumbling into bed.

Awakening from my jetlagged slumber the next morning I opened the curtains to be greeted with the sight of towering palm trees, squirrels making mischief along the rooftops and the shimmering waters of a vast swimming pool. It was a perfect day for the beach, just the thing to wash away the weariness and jetlag. The perfect tropical paradise to start our #ThailandAdventure Robinson Club Khao Lak is located approximately 86km from Phuket International Airport (about a 90-minute drive) on the west coast of Thailand along a section of the long, sandy Pak Weep beach within the Khao Lak National Park. The beautifully manicured tropical gardens and swimming pools give way to a palm fringed beach and the turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea where a gentle swell beckons.

From the soft white sand, I step into the deliciously warm ocean, chest deep in turquoise water with little fish swimming around me – absolute bliss. A short walk up the beach is an open-air spa offering wellprices massages – I opt for the neck, back and shoulder massage which ends up as an hour of very firm massage from the tips of my toes to the top of my head – all for about R400.

We continue our walk along the beach, pausing for an icy local beer at one of the beachside bars, they serve a great selection of cocktails too. This is a great way of supporting local entrepreneurs and ensuring that your spend does not only stay within the coffers of an international brand hotel, especially seeing as Robinson Club offer a full board option that includes buffet style breakfast, lunch, and dinner as well as a selection of beverages (soft drinks, tea, coffee and beer on tap as well as a great table wine). The buffets were imaginative and beautifully displayed and included a wide variety of local and European choices as well as vegan and ‘special diet’ options.

The full board option is great for groups and those travelling on a restricted budget as you can at least know what costs you are in for upfront. Keep in mind that there are speciality Our responsible traveller 29

restaurants and a selection of bars (with great cocktails) that are at an extra cost. And the spa looked fabulous – to be kept in mind for our next visit!

With all this fabulous food, be grateful for the vast grounds – including a walking/running track, sporting facilities, well-equipped gym and Robinson WellFit, a balanced wellness and fitness program that includes sauna and massages or yoga and indoor cycling.

There’s even SUP boarding if you prefer water sports. Our choice of exercise were lengthy beach walks and early morning birdwatching through the wooded areas and along the lake edge. If you are a keen birder, remember your binoculars!

With these expansive grounds you realise just how much upkeep is required. And with a large selection of rooms, suites, villas and bungalows to keep the housekeeping team busy, as well as the friendly, ever-smiling, team of waitrons and the vast team that would be required to keep us all well-fed, you can understand why Robinson Khao Lak is a huge employer in this coastal area - with most of their employees coming from the local communities. They also support local tour operators with the choice of tours and excursions that are offered to guests, which is commendable.

We had a local taxi pick us up for a visit to the Tsunami Memorial in the nearby small market own of Takua Pa, about 20km away.

The memorial is an educational yet moving experience. Seeing the images in the region where it happened, photos of the beaches we had walked on, the remains of the Thai navy boat 813, a large steel vessel that was carried almost two kilometres inland by the force of the water, and he devastation and loss of life that it caused made it so much more of a reality.

One positive of this occurrence is that people now know what to do, and with all the evacuation routes marked and early warning systems in place, such a disaster is unlikely to have the same effect again. So, beachgoers and visitors to Thailand’s coastal regions and islands have little to fear.

A stroll across the street had us at the Bang Niang Market which opens at 15:00 and goes on until about 20:00. There was the usual Thai market produce – clothing, bags, sunglasses, toys, spices, medicinal balms etc. as well as both fresh produce and ready cooked meals, for both takeaway and sit-down. This was our 30 responsible traveller

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first Thai market so from a health perspective we opted for fresh fruit and the yummiest of banana fritters (our ‘food-bravery’ increased the longer we stayed in Thailand, but for safety sake we always chose freshly prepared food).

In keeping with the local experience, we took a Songthaeo, essentially a pick-up truck with a wooden structure and bench seats on the back, to our hotel. An enjoyable, and recommended experience!

So, what did I love most about Robinson Club Khao Lak? •

The absolute relax that it offered, the beautiful beach and wonderfully warm ocean – be aware of the tides before you venture out for a long walk on the beach, you may get wet.

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•

The friendly people and fabulous cuisine – and meeting General Manager Erol Wieldt whilst multi-tasking as chef on the evening of the Gala Event creating yummy scallops with ratatouille.

•

The absolute sense of Thai’ness, with delicious Thai cuisine, lotus lilies, old stone walls, statuettes, wooden carvings, and architectural details.

•

And of course their visible eco-credentials... glass water bottles in room, water in a jug at mealtimes, and a sign saying ‘I am not a plastic straw’ at the bar. •

www.robinson.com

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THAVORN PALM BEACH RESORT Our next beach experience was with Thavorn Hotels & Resorts, a brand that celebrates Thai culture, traditions, hospitality as well as nature and an ethos of conservation and sustainability.

With the first stop at the Thavorn Palm Beach Resort in Phuket.

It is located right on the beachfront, within easy walking distance of local bars, restaurants, and nightlife, and only a few steps from the popular Karon Beach. We arrived late in the afternoon, just in time for a quick stroll through the extensive gardens on our way to catch the sun set over Patong Bay. There were families, couples, and even a paraglider out enjoying the balmy evening. We watched as the sky went from pale shades of blue to a 34 responsible traveller

dark and mysterious indigo, the ocean soon becoming a mirror reflecting the twinkling lights from the surrounding hillsides and the shimmer of a full moon.

A walk through the bustling streets and alleys of the Karon Beach area revealed a choice of restaurants that offered both authentic Thai cuisine and a European menu for those less adventurous. An assortment of seafood, satay sticks and chicken wings nestled on trays of ice, fresh prawns and mussels sizzled on a grill, and a food cart filled with a variety of fresh tropical fruit trundled by. Massage parlours sat beside small shops that spilt their colourful wares onto the sidewalk – racks of shoes, colourful dresses blowing in the tropical breeze and a variety of

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beach attire, as well as colourful buckets and spades and a plethora of safety swimming rings all called for attention. We opted for a delicious plate of Thai yellow noodles with chicken washed down with local Chang beer. With our senses and taste buds appeased - it was time to head for the comfort of our suite.

Thavorn Hotels & Resorts has been a prominent family-owned hotel brand in Phuket for over 30 years with its history tracing back to the very first full-service hotel in Phuket – thanks to a display in the reception area we were able to explore this history in detail. Having begun with the founder Tilok Thavornwongwongse’s dream in 1950 to steer Phuket into an international tourist destination, today Thavorn Hotels and Resorts features two luxury beach resorts in Phuket’s best locations – the Thavorn Palm Beach Resort, where we were staying and the Thavorn Beach Village Resort & Spa located on Nakalay Bay. Our spacious and comfortable suite overlooked the gardens and one of the four swimming pools at the resort, with a diversity of palm trees dominating the view. Heading to breakfast the following morning we strolled beneath flowering frangipani trees (Plumeria), beside beds overflowing with colour, lush ferns, ancient bonsai trees in stone pots and a variety of authentically Thai sculptures.

The colonial style main buildings are a delight with a modern Thai architectural style, high beamed ceilings, and historic detail at every turn. Walls draped in greenery and the tranquillity of koi ponds echo the founder’s ethos of sustainability, and commitment to nature and conservation over profit.

Best described in his words, ‘I would rather be poor on the beauty of nature than to be rich on the destruction of the environment’ - Tilok Thavornwongwongse

So, what did I love most about Thavorn Palm Beach Resort?

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Its proximity to the less busy action of Karon Beach (in preference to other areas).

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The sense of history and the personal family touches evident throughout.

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The commitment of the Thavornwongwongse family to conservation over profit – something evident in both Thavorn Hotel properties we visited. •

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THAVORN BEACH VILLAGE RESORT & SPA

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We chose an early transfer to the Thavorn Beach Village & Spa, with its private beach, extensive swimming pools and more secluded environment being more to our taste. And we were not disappointed.

The resort has one of Phuket’s last remaining unspoiled private beaches. Nakalay Beach, which can only be accessed through the hotel or the privately owned pier, offers 600 metres of sandy beach and the calm waters of Andaman Sea. The beach slopes gently into the sea and remains shallow for quite a distance. When the tide is high, it makes for a family-friendly seafront, however, this also means that when the tide goes out, it goes out a long way. This exposes a rocky intertidal zone that is home to a vast number of marine species, from starfish and corals to shrimp, squid, and sea urchins.

Relaxing on a sun lounger I watch a local fisherman casting his net, a young couple emerge in the distance, snorkel, and mask in hand, and make their way closer to the shore, ever watchful of where they step. With swimming in the ocean currently not an option, a dip in one of the largest free-form swimming pools (4,000 sq.m) in South East Asia was called for.

The lagoon-style pool is a feast for the eyes, and feels completely natural, surrounded by tropical greenery, water features and hidden nooks as well as poolside dining and a swim-up bar.

To my delight we had a pool access suite – I could step from our terrace directly into a secluded section of the lagoon pool. What bliss! Even with a massive king-sized bed the suite still felt spacious and I loved the traditional Thai styled furnishings and the abundance of teakwood. The complimentary citronella bug spray came in handy as lush tropical gardens generally mean mosquitos, of which, thankfully, there were only a few.

Luxury and poolside living aside, we were here to chat to John Thavornwongwongse, Director, Thavorn Hotels to learn about their commitment to sustainability and conservation.

John tells us that they, as the Thavorn Palm Beach Resort and the Thavorn Beach Village Resort & Spa, have implemented a range of ecofriendly initiatives and conservation projects, including a joint coral conservation project by Thavorn Hotels and the Department of Marine and Coastal Resources (DMCR) – which as a scuba diver and photographer he is extremely proud of.

“This is the first government approved project to save, grow, and nourish corals on natural responsible traveller 39

reefs in Phuket. We also created Phuket’s first coral nursery and learning centre. By working closely with Thailand’s DMCR, we ensure that our efforts are according to regulations and are of international standards. Our goal is to become a successful case study for Phuket’s travel industry in coral reef conservation and hopefully inspire other businesses to do the same.”

As we stroll through the extensive grounds to the coral research centre John tells us that in the past, Patong bay was one of the locations in Phuket with the healthiest coral reefs resulting in an abundance of marine life, which in turn attracted tourists and many fishermen. But as time passed, due to the increasing damages sustained by the coral reefs the abundance of marine life declined as did the number of natureloving tourists.

He explains that there were a number of reasons for this degradation: from increased sea temperatures due to climate change; the overpopulation of the coral reef predator, the crown-of-thorns starfish; environmental effects due to the 2004 tsunami tragedy; increasing construction and development and the accompanying pollution it creates as well as near-shore fishermen trampling the reefs.

This prompted an extensive survey of Patong Bay’s coral reefs to determine the extent of the damage. They ascertained that the reefs could still recover provided certain initiatives were supported and pioneered. Public awareness was raised with both locals and guests and

‘Our goal is to become a successful case study for Phuket’s travel industry in coral reef conservation and hopefully inspire other businesses to do the same...’

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hands-on activities were begun to preserve the reefs. For example, the restoration of coral reef, the repair and reinstallation of the mooring buoys, diving activities to clean the reefs, by supporting the campaign to reduce wastewater and by supporting the participation of different entrepreneurs. This resulted in the establishment of a five-year plan to promote and support coral reef growth and development to restore the reefs.

It was fascinating seeing coral growing in the tanks and John explains the various methods they use to attach coral to a base so that they can grow and be returned to the reef. The natural rocks found on their private beach are used as a base and broken and fragmented corals are attached by cable ties and nails so that they do not get washed away. In areas that lack a coral base, they attach the coral to metal frames, which John says, has extended their conservation capabilities beyond the natural rocks. “There is evidence that the corals have attached well to the 10 frames we launched in a previous 42 responsible traveller

dive and that the coral are slowly covering the frames, cable ties and nails�.

A more recent development is the use of donated electrical plates from the DMCR and Electricity Generating Authority of Thailand as the smooth surface base, to which broken corals are easily attached with epoxy glue. This is a much easier process than the metal frames enabling up to 40 such plates being launched during a dive. The restoration dives are done by enthusiasts and conservationists and Thavorn Hotels covers the cost of diving gear and oxygen tanks, which comes at a price, as well as free meals and drinks for every event.

We continue our walk past the vegetable gardens where lettuce, mint, morning glory, cucumber, holy basil, and eggplant are grown.

Additionally, their dining outlets operate with a farm-to fork ethos and source local produce where possible.

Environmentally, Thavorn Hotels have committed to recycling where possible, use greywater

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for the gardens, have changed to LED energy efficient lighting, and keep the usage of plastic to a minimum. John explains that this continues to be a challenge in the guest bathrooms as the lack of reliability of refillable dispensers as well as guest expectations tend to determine their decisions. He does assure me that sustainability has been at the core of their ethos since the inception of the brand so finding a satisfactory solution is what he is committed to.

Walking into the orchid garden with its magnificent display of exotic colour, traditional and sometimes quirky sculptures, and Thai sayings, their motto ‘Where Thai Tradition Meets Nature’ becomes very evident.

With most of the resort grounds are dedicated to natural areas, as opposed to buildings, garden enthusiasts and horticulturists alike may even 46 responsible traveller

forgo beach time to spend more time exploring the treasures of the splendid 10 plus acre of gardens. Discover a wealth of diversity, from the sounds of nature, 17th century Bonsai, and the fragrant scents from many exotic flowers such as orchids, bougainvillea, frangipani (Plumeria), roses, and more – there is even a baobab tree!

The gardens have taken years of passion and dedication as well as trial and error, considering the salty sea breeze that is generally an unsuitable environment for flowering plants.

Keep a look out for the resident wildlife as well as guinea fowl, and the rooster and his family that roost in one of the large frangipani trees.

And if you are walking in the evenings, do listen up and look for tree frogs and toads that frequent the ponds near the main restaurant – which offers a great menu selection, from

traditional Thai cuisine to more mainstream options.

that guests are educated about it through a display in the reception area.

John suggested that we take the hillside cable car to experience some of the best views in Phuket of the Andaman Sea.

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The fact that I could walk off our terrace straight into the lagoon pool – be sure to request a pool access suite for this.

We enjoy the expansive views over the resort and the great perspective that it gives of the extent of the gardens. The funicular cable car was the very first on Phuket and is an easy option for accessing the Hillside rooms and suites. The walk back down through the forest offers some great birding opportunities too.

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The continuing commitment to finding financially viable and environmentally sound solutions to single use plastic.

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That there are fabulous dining options in a variety of locations, we unfortunately were not there long enough to try them all, but I did love the scrumptious and diverse range at the breakfast buffet – including the extensive range of jam and preserves, all in glass bottles! •

So, what did I love most about Thavorn Beach Village Resort & Spa? •

Its secluded beach and the tropical gardens.

•

The coral conservation project and the fact

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ZEAVOLA RESORT

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Despite the rough sea and potential rain, the transfer on Zeavola’s private speed boat from Phuket to Phi Phi Island was a breeze – thanks to our skilled skipper. But regardless of the conditions, I think with my level of excitement to finally be visiting one of Thailand’s best barefoot luxury sustainable resorts, I would have survived anything.

The Phi Phi National Marine Park is an archipelago of six stunningly beautiful tropical islands in the Andaman Sea, one of which is Phi Phi Don Island. Zeavola Resort is situated on its northern tip, surrounded by lush tropical forest and on the tranquil shores of Laem Tong Beach.

We were warmly welcomed on the dock by General Manager, Florian Hallerman. Soon we were walking beneath towering trees and through lush vegetation alive with birdsong.

The neatly swept paths giving way to nature with a sprinkling of leaves. We glimpsed the occasional thatch roof and wooden structure as we made our way towards reception and our first glimpse of the soft white sand and the varying shades of aquamarine of the ocean. A barefoot paradise.

Zeavola’s teak villas and suites are spread throughout the grounds to resemble a Thai village from another era. Double teak doors indicate the entrance, I remove my slops and wash the sand off my feet the traditional Thai way. I step up into the large outdoor living area, the perfect place to unwind and relax.

Our garden suite is luxurious in its simplicity, with teak walls, bamboo privacy screens and a palm frond clad roof (which are gradually being responsible traveller 49

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replaced with an artificial version for the sake of longevity). It is stylishly decorated in rich, colourful fabrics and the bathroom amenities are provided in hand-made ceramic jars.

The floor to ceiling windows in the spacious air-conditioned bedroom ensures nature is never out of sight, and the open-air shower an invitation I could not refuse.

A glass of chilled South African white wine never tasted better. With toes in the sand and the gentle whisper of the waves a short distance away, the ambiance at Tacada beachfront restaurant and bar set the scene spectacularly for an island style Thai dinner later that evening. We dine at Baxil, Zeavola’s authentic Thai restaurant - crispy fried prawns with sesame, roasted sea bass, Thai curry noodles and the most delicious mango and coconut ice cream for dessert.

Mosquito wipes, provided daily, keep the pesky critters away and a voluminous mosquito net ensures a restful sleep. An early breakfast of tropical fruit, a variety of buffet delights and a selection of made to order hot dishes at Baxil, have us ready for an energetic day – and just as well with all the fabulous cuisine on offer!

Florian suggested we hike to Nui Bay. A paved road, used only by pedestrians and motorbike taxis, gives way to sand. It takes us past quaint restaurants, local laundromats, and the humble homes of the local Loh Bagao community near Loh Ba Kao Bay. We pass vegetable gardens, washing lines and even a rudimentary volleyball court. From the treed road we soon step onto the shore of Loh Lana Bay, a popular spot for both swimming and snorkelling.

Colourful longtail boats dot the shore, and in the deeper water speed boats hover like mother hens over their clutch of life jacket clad snorkellers. We step past a tangle of knotted rope, along a rocky shore, and head towards a small sea gypsy settlement.

The sea gypsy people are known as Chao Ley, the water people, or people of the sea, and tend to live in metal-roofed homes, or even small houseboats. They have lived as nomads in the region for hundreds of years, most are fishermen, but some do work in the island’s coconut plantations. At low tide, the women will fish the reefs for shellfish, snails and even abalone. Zeavola supports the local Laem Tong Primary school and serves the Chao Ley community lunch there on a weekly basis – guests are welcome to participate, which offers responsible traveller 53

a great opportunity to learn more about their fascinating culture.

We pass the gypsy settlement and scramble up a steep rocky incline, clutching a well-placed rope for assistance, and through the forest to be rewarded with a spectacular view of Nui Bay with its emerald green sea and limestone cliffs.

After a most welcome dip in the ocean, we make our way back towards the village and pop into the View Point Restaurant for a very welcome and well chilled Chang Beer. A bridge across the mangrove lagoon leads to a street lined with ramshackle restaurants, quirky bars, and a variety of shops. Need a Thai massage? Or a boat trip to somewhere? No problem, there are massage parlours aplenty and tour vendors just about everywhere. Well walked and weary we opt for a taxi ride back and head straight to the pool.

No visit to Zeavola Resort would be complete without exploring the incredible diversity beneath the ocean. We select the Maya Adventure Tour, a speed boat adventure around the beautiful uninhabited Phi Phi Leh Island with multiple stops for snorkelling and snacking. We cruise past towering limestone cliffs dotted with caves, and vegetation that appears to defy gravity, clinging to its sides. We slow to an idle as we near the renowned Maya Bay, celebrated in the 2000 movie ‘The Beach’ starring Leonardo DiCaprio.

Unfortunately, the influx of thousands of day-trippers with their litter, pollution and boat damage, caused untold environmental destruction - marine experts suggest that 80% of the coral reefs surrounding the bay have suffered mass destruction. As a result of this, Thai authorities saw fit to close Maya Bay indefinitely, and the closest you can get is a cordoned off section and a distant view of that famous beach.

Visitors are however allowed to snorkel beyond this section of the bay, and we see evidence that the marine ecosystem is recovering with a sighting of a few young black-tip reef sharks, and an abundance of tropical fish.

A bleaching event about eight years ago – likely to be caused in part by El Ninio effect, but also by overtourism, also caused untold coral destruction causing the Thai government to very quickly close an open water reef called Hin Klang. This reef has been off limits for about seven to eight years, but is showing great signs of recovery. About two years special permission was given to dive this reef and 54 responsible traveller

Florian accompanied National Geography Photographer York Hovest for a book, ‘Heroes of the Sea’ - Zeavola is mentioned in the book and the cover picture of the book is Wang Loh on Phi Phi Leh. It is important to remember that the use of chemical-based sunscreen products adds to the pollution in the ocean. A 2016 study by a team of international scientists found that a common chemical, Oxybenzone, or BP-3, found in many sunscreen lotions and cosmetics is highly toxic to juvenile corals and other marine life.

Thankfully, I was able to purchase a tube of reef friendly sunscreen from the Zeavola shop and could slip into the warm emerald tinged water

‘We see evidence that the marine ecosystem is recovering with a sighting of a few young black-tip reef sharks, and an abundance of tropical fish...’

with confidence knowing I was doing no harm whilst protecting myself from the sun’s harmful rays.

We enter Loh Samah Bay and take our place alongside other speed boats and a plethora of longtail boats, beautifully adorned as blessings for a safe journey. The ocean is deliciously warm and the underwater life quite beguiling.

A snack of fresh watermelon and pineapple replenishes our energy.

Phi Leh Lagoon is reached by a relatively narrow access point between towering cliffs – it can be challenging for larger vessels, especially at low tide when sand bars become a hazard. responsible traveller 55

Pics - Tessa Buhrmann

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We joined a steady stream of boats entering the lagoon, adding to the many that were already there – a bunfight for sure, and this was the low season. This just highlighted the impact that over-tourism is having on destinations as well as the environment. Something that governments, tourism organisations and conservationists are all grappling with.

Viking Cave is located beneath a high limestone cliff alongside a turquoise sea. It owes its name to the cave paintings depicting ships that resemble those of the Viking, Arabic iconography as well as sailors and even elephants – the mystery of how and why they got there remains.

Local legend has it that some sailors lost at sea managed to find the cave and survived by eating the nests (made from the saliva) of the resident swiftlet colony. Bird nests, made into a healthy soup, is a delicacy in Chinese cuisine. They are harvested by locals who from February to April, when the chicks leave their homes, use fragile bamboo scaffolding to collect the nests – quite a risky job, as it is done in the dark. It is said that the market price of a kilogram of birds’ nests is in the region of 150,000 Baht. The cave is closed to visitors, but we get to see the sections of scaffolding at the mouth of the cave.

As the name suggests, the surrounding cliffs and beach of Monkey Bay are home to monkeys. Macaques on the cliff side watch eagerly as we pass by – waiting to be fed I’m sure, as despite the strict regulations I’m sure many tourists still feed them. We end our adventure in the calm clear water of Loh Lana Bay. It was the best snorkelling of the day, it was as though I had been dropped into a tropical aquarium, all I needed to do was stay afloat and be amazed at the incredible diversity beneath me.

From sunny skies and a warm clear day to soaring limestone cliffs, aquamarine water, and an astonishing variety of marine life... we oohed and aahed over the stunning scenery, spent hours in the water and marvelled at the abundance of life underwater. From black tip reef sharks to brightly coloured parrot fish, shoals of teeny tiny shiny fish to a whole host of speckled, striped, sleek, chubby, fat-lipped, and you name it kind of fish. And then there were the corals, sea urchins, sea cucumbers and more... I probably spent more time in the ocean in four hours than in the last decade. I even had the wrinkly fingertips to prove it. responsible traveller 57

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But warm ocean and sandy beaches aside, Florian had promised a ‘behind the scenes’ tour to show us Zeavola’s environmental initiatives in action.

He talks about their ‘responsible co-existence’, his determination and passion evident. “It’s all about ensuring a safe and natural environment for our guests, each other and our partners on Koh Phi Phi Island. It’s not only what we achieve, but how we live it that determines the real value of our company”, he says. I soon learn that it is about the people – guests, colleagues, partners, and the local community, about the environment and about conservation.

We started our back of house tour in the staff area and meet Min who proudly shows off her Zeavola shopping bag and metal drinking cup – and her obvious support for Manchester United. Florian explains that each team member received a metal drinking cup that they can refill at one of the numerous refill stations throughout the resort, as well as an environmentally friendly canvas bag to use when shopping. Not only does this reduce the amount of single use plastic, but it a great way to educate others.

We had each received a lovely aluminium water bottle which we were able to fill up with wonderfully chilled water from the reusable glass water bottles in our suite or the refill station at the reception area – which was really easy to do before heading out to

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the beach. Florian tells us that the successful implementation of reusable glass bottles has reduced the use of single-use plastic bottles by over 120,000 per year. Alexandre Tsuk, the founder of RefillMyBottle, had previously visited Zeavola and is the inspiration behind the water filling stations across the resort.

The executive chef and his team work closely with local suppliers to reduce or eliminate the plastic packaging usually associated with food delivery. One of these methods is to use baskets for transporting food as well as reusable ice boxes for the transportation of perishable goods reducing the need for Styrofoam boxes. A strict recycling protocol is in place were packaging is unavoidable.

Florian takes us past the water purification dam, screened off from guests using bamboo fences and lush vegetation. The in-house maintenance and engineering team have created cost-effective methods of filtering the water using every-day materials – at a vastly reduced cost (and carbon footprint) to the equivalent imported products. Education regarding the consumption on water has resulted in a reduction in wastewater. A complex reverse osmosis water system has been developed to ensure all wastewater, which is tested regularly for purity, is reused in the jungle gardens.

The water is so clean that fish reside in the pond and birds enjoy the aquatic environment

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it provides. We spot a gorgeous greater rackettailed drongo on a branch overhanging the pond, happily catching bugs, and singing his melodious song. Just one of the new bird species to add to our list.

A composting cycle has been introduced so that all organic waste is re-purposed as a rich fertiliser for the plants and trees on the resort. Trimmings from the lush jungle gardens are shredded, mulched, and composted but what impresses most, is the relatively new Reddonatura (http://reddonatura.com/ ) composting machine that, almost miraculously, takes organic waste and in a matter of days turn it into ‘pre-compost’.

Florian explains that kitchen food waste is fed into a dewatering machine that essentially compacts the waste and squishes most of the water out through a mesh screen. The liquid is 64 responsible traveller

then sent to the water treatment plant and the waste, which is now reduced in volume by over 50%, is ready for the organic waste converter.

Organic being the key thing. Compostable material includes fruit and vegetable peels, poultry, meat and fish and meal leftovers, but no big bones. Up to 75kg per day of this organic material is then fed into the organic waste converter, where the magic happens.

After about 24-36 hours the organic material has been converted to a compost-like material, ready for use in the gardens. This system is likely to save over 20 tonnes of waste each year.

Energy consumption throughout the resort has been reduced through the implementation of energy efficient devices in all aspects of the operation, the installation of energy saving lightbulbs in guest rooms, gardens, public places and offices, as well as incorporating

embracing the local community and respecting their way of life as well as supporting them actively in a variety of ways.

These include: the provision of workforce and materials for renovation work at Laem Tong School; being the primary organiser of the Laem Tong School’s annual children’s day party on the beach; supporting local charities on Phi Phi Island, especially those that focus on child development; the support of two annual sea gypsy festivals with the local community as well as engaging with local fishermen and artists and purchasing their products thus providing them with additional income.

Our last evening is celebrated in style with a seafood dinner comprising locally caught fish cooked on an open fire. The smokiness adding to the taste as well as the ambiance. We linger over dinner, enjoying a lively conversation with Florian, willing the time to slow down and potentially even pause.

Unfortunately, we have a plane to catch the next morning so leave we must. Our memorable experience on this island paradise ensures a return visit at some point, if not in reality, most certainly in the dreamy recesses of my mind.

So, what did I love most about Zeavola Resort?

movement sensor controls in public areas.

Heading to the ‘engine room’ which controls all thing electrical, my hubby appreciates the technology whilst I admire the vibrant and colourful adornments that, as per Thai culture, are asking for a blessing and the continued operation of this very crucial part of the operation.

A few of the other initiatives that Florian has implemented are: the daily cleaning of local beaches; regular coral cleaning under strict PADI guidelines with divers and experienced guests; the ‘adoption’ and regular cleaning up of Nui Bay; the active support of local cleanup initiatives as well as the maintenance and operation of the local pier, thereby providing safe and constant access to the village. Support for the local community is an integral part of Zeavola’s social responsibility. This starts by

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Zeavola’s unassuming barefoot luxury, and the fact that paradise so easily seeped into my soul.

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The wonderfully fresh and diverse range of cuisine.

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Slipping into the warm aquamarine ocean and the wonderful snorkelling.

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An island that is easy to explore and get off the beaten track – I loved that we didn’t have to dodge any motor vehicles!

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The great service and ever-present smiles.

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The stellar commitment to responsible tourism. In every respect.

To find out more about Zeavola Resort’s sustainability, check out ‘Zeavola’s Little Green Book’ written by Florian Hallerman – click HERE to download •

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CONSERVATION and why it has become more about people than animals

Snares

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T

hrough the years, conservation has focused on the preservation of untouched wilderness. Not long ago the greatest prize for conservationists was to gain protected status for an area and then establish rigorously controlled boundaries around these important places - with focus always on the protection of the species that live within these areas.

However, over the years conservation has changed profoundly and those involved in the field have come to realise that protecting an area in isolation is not enough – one has to focus on a much bigger picture.

Modern conservation must take surrounding communities into consideration and factor in human/wildlife interactions.

Human impact on the environment is so significant that untouched wilderness areas are critically endangered – only 23% of the world’s land mass can be considered wilderness area.

The biggest threat facing wilderness areas is exponential population growth.

In Africa, rapid population growth has led to swift changes in the way the landscape is inhabited and people are now living right next to protected wilderness areas – most of which are unfenced. “This has led to a massive escalation in human wildlife conflict as traditional subsistence agricultural practices in rural villages is incompatible with wildlife, and with this comes a tremendous need to rethink conservation methods and approaches,” says James Suter, producer and director at Black Bean Productions, an independent film production company that recently produced a hard-hitting documentary entitled “The Edge of Existence,” about the human-wildlife conflict issue.

words & pics - supplied

Suter explains that people living on the edge of wildlife areas fight a daily battle with wildlife that enters the villages to plunder crops or food stores or attack and kill livestock and villagers themselves. “A herd of elephants can easily decimate an entire village’s crops in one night – leaving the people without food security or income made through the responsible traveller 67

sale of excess produce. From the community perspective, subsistence poaching is seen as a right and added to this, there is a massive demand for bush meat – sadly, the bush meat trade has become one of the biggest threats to our wildlife populations.”

While Suter firmly agrees that wilderness areas should be preserved and protected for future generations, he says that at the same time we need to protect the people that live on the boundaries. “It’s a big challenge to try to find community-friendly, conservation-friendly solutions.”

“Conservation used to be about keeping the communities out and protecting the wildlife within. However, conservationists now understand that communities are key if you want a conservation model to work.

You need to engage and work with the local people, rather than trying to do things on your own. Without the buy-in of the people, conservation does not work - locals need to see a direct impact of the wildlife that they are now being told to protect.”

Suter explains that the documentary, “Edge Of Existence,” looks at the human wildlife conflict story from an objective perspective. “Modern conservation has to look at both sides of the story. We have to consider the people living with wildlife, and empathise with them, while also looking at protecting the wildlife that is affected by communities encroaching on wilderness areas.

Bush meat

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“It’s a story that needs to be told and discussed. Conservation is not sustainable unless we find workable solutions to human-wildlife conflict that can support the communities affected. What has been realised at the end of the day, is that putting up a fence is probably the best way to mitigate human wildlife conflict. Either fence these communities in, or have buffer zones, or porous fences where smaller animals can get through.”

However, fencing is expensive and the kilometres are vast. Suter says that Black Bean Productions has partnered with the Grumeti Fund in Tanzania and together they have launched an initiative to raise funds to put up a fence in order to protect communities living on the edge of a human/wildlife conflict hotspot on the western corridor of the Serengeti.

The public can contribute towards a metre, or more, of this necessary fence – which has already started to be constructed. Interested parties can click HERE for more info - there is a donate button at the end of the page, where people can choose how many meters of fence to pay for to support this project.”

The Edge of Existence was lined up for several South African and international film festivals, but all of these have been placed on hold as the world lives through lockdown. Black Bean Productions is currently negotiating with broadcasters to buy and flight the documentary, both in South Africa and internationally.

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BABANANGO GAME RESERVE ...the fulfilment of a dream

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‘I

love it when a plan comes together’ said Hannibal Smith of the A-Team, words that could just as well be uttered

by Jeff van Staden, COO of African Habitat Conservancy (AHC). Especially when he looks around at what is becoming one of South Africa’s conservation and community success stories – the Babanango Game Reserve, 22 000-hectares of protected wilderness area in undulating heartland of KwaZulu-Natal. responsible traveller 71

Born of a vision to sustainably support the conservation of African wildlife through the upliftment and education of communities, African Habitat Conservancy (AHC) is the managing company behind the development of Babanango Game Reserve (BGR), its first conservation project situated on the breathtakingly beautiful mist belt grassland plateau 50km from the town of Vryheid. But that is not all, as it also focuses on restoration of the land under protection, removing alien and invader species to ensure the return to a pristine environment.

With its rolling grasslands, thornveld and 23km of river frontage on the White Umfolozi River, BGR is home to a diverse range of wildlife species and mixed biomes. It is a game reserve in the making and a trailblazing one at that.

“Although the reserve is the most stunningly beautiful I’ve seen, it’s also the most challenging, but when I originally looked at it, the risk reward was the best I could foresee,” says Jeff of the decision to choose Babanango as AHC’s first project. “If we can get it right here then we are adding another 22 000ha of conserved land to KZN,” he adds.

“Sustainable tourism is very much a part of our model and plays a valuable role in conservation,” he explains. “As well as generating revenue streams, it’s critical to the upliftment of our community partners here the Emcakwini, KwaNgono and Esibongweni communities - through job creation and skills development and training,”.

Born and raised in South Africa, Jeff joined the inbound tourism industry in the late 1990s and in 2002 moved to Frankfurt, Germany, opening Elangeni African Adventures a year later. The ethos of the company was that every trip and safari planned for clients had minimal impact on the environment and offered tangible benefits for communities. And a decade later opened Jamluti African Safaris, a sister operation to Elangeni African Adventures that specialised in partnering with operators committed to sustainability, conservation, and communities.

So it’s no surprise that Jeff’s personal and business ethos around tourism is that ‘a trip is only successful if the traveller and the country visited, and all the people involved in the value chain, have benefited from the visit’.

It was with this mindset that in 2016 he returned to South Africa. By now a seasoned authority in both the safari industry and the 72 responsible traveller

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world of conservation, his driving passion, Jeff understood that it wasn’t a lack of effort that was losing the battle against poaching but rather a lack of co-operation. So, he set about finding a greenfield site in KZN that was unprotected and under threat and preserve it.

In 2018 Jeff was presented with the opportunity to partner with German investor Hellmuth Weisser to create African Habitat Conservancy, focussed on one of the most picturesque – but economically neglected – parts of KwaZuluNatal. This gave him the opportunity to actively combine his entrepreneurial skills, tourism experience, and conservation passion.

And so, through AHC, the dream of working closely with local communities began - little did Jeff realise at the time, but his dream also enabled the dreams of others… such as Babanango Reserve Manager Musa Mbatha.

For Musa, working at Babanango Game Reserve is the realisation of a dream he had 74 responsible traveller

as a boy growing up in the communities that surround this game reserve in the making.

He’s spent the last two years working as the reserve manager, putting all the experience gained in more than 20 years spent working in the bush into what he readily describes as a ‘passion project’.

“I was born and raised here and fell in love with this area and the African wilderness as a small boy. I went into the conservation industry in 1998, starting out as a security guard and working hard to get my Field Guides’ Association of Southern Africa guide’s qualifications in 1999 and then studying for a diploma in wildlife management which I completed in 2005,” says Musa.

Determined to realise his dream he continued with his studies and in 2001 obtained his higher certificate in nature conservation from Southern African Wildlife College in the Greater Kruger National Park. It was while working at Phinda Private Game Reserve in northern KwaZulu-

Jeff van Staden, COO of African Habitat Conservancy

‘Through African Habitat Conservancy the dream of working closely with local communities began - little did Jeff realise at the time, but his dream also enabled the dreams of others...’ responsible traveller 75

Natal, which, like Babanango, has strong roots in the local community which owns the reserve, that he heard that Babanango Game Reserve was being created.

“I was very keen to be involved and met with Jeff van Staden of African Habitat Conservancy which is undertaking the Babanango project,” says Musa. “I was amazed that this place where I grew up, which I always daydreamed of being filled with wildlife again, was slowly being transformed into a game reserve, and privileged to be part of that process,” he adds.

Musa has been the reserve manager for two years now and is motivated to complete the process of creating this game reserve in the making. With its eye firmly on attracting tourism to the area, Babanango will eventually be the home of the Big Five - elephant, rhino, leopard, lion and buffalo - thanks to AHC’s strategic game reintroduction programme. This kicked off towards the end of 2019 with the release of a seed herd of 23 disease-free buffalo onto a 945ha section of the reserve.

“Leopard already occur naturally in the area, so the remainder of the Big Five species will be introduced over the coming two years,” says Musa. “In the meantime, we are continually fine-tuning our management of the area under protection through the monitoring of game numbers and the relocation of certain species when populations become too large for a certain area to sustain,” he adds.

provided here, which is a wonderful achievement,” he says.

Babanango Game Reserve most definitely fits in to the ‘watch this space’ category, with African Habitat Conservancy’s promises to ensure the sustainability of all conservation projects, the upliftment and education of communities, and collaboration with all significant parties for the greater good of humanity, wildlife, and our planet.

By delivering unique, innovative experiences to the tourist market, offering excellent value for money, the company aims to create a sustainable business model that will encourage future projects which make a difference in Africa.

Visitors to Babanango Game Reserve can rest assured that their tourism spend is benefitting both conservation and the local communities – and to paraphrase Jeff’s words, ‘their trip will be successful because they the traveller, South Africa, and more specifically KZN, and all the people involved in the value chain, including staff and local communities, will benefit from the visit.’ •

www.babanango.co.za

“This ongoing process of capture and release has seen large herds of wildebeest and impala divided and relocated to other parts of the reserve to ensure an even spread of game across the various biomes,” says Mbatha. “I want to finish the fence and complete our ongoing wildlife relocation and reintroduction programme which will see the Big Five wildlife species returned to Babanango by 2022.”

“It’s a fulfilment of a long-held dream to be working here, building a game reserve to protect wildlife and at the same time developing neighbouring communities through employment and helping them start their own small businesses,” he says. “The game reserve cannot afford to employ everyone, but by encouraging entrepreneurs we can reach more people and change more lives.”

Musa adds that Babanango has already employed more than 120 people from the local communities... “That means that more than 1000 people are being supported by the jobs we have 76 responsible traveller

Musa Mbatha, Babanango Reserve Manager

BioBlitz – Discovering Plant & Bird Species That Call Babanango Game Reserve Home Babanango Game Reserve is celebrating the completion of its first BioBlitz - an intense biological survey carried out by a group of scientists, naturalists, and volunteers to record all living species within a designated area over a continuous time-period.

“We need to create a comprehensive list of species across the reserve,” says Babanango Reserve Manager Musa Mbatha. “The BioBlitz programme will help us to do this and to track biodiversity changes throughout the development of the reserve, gaining insight into our landscapes and microclimates,” he concluded.

It’s a significant milestone for this new 22,000ha reserve that’s located in the heart of South Africa’s beautiful northern KwaZulu-Natal, offering the opportunity to enjoy a captivating bush experience and participate in a ground-breaking conservation project that’s benefitting local communities and protecting precious wildlife for future generations.

The BioBlitz was executed in partnership with the University of KwaZulu-Natal and was carried

out by a group of 12 specialists, which included Masters’ and PhD students with varying specialities such as herpetology, botany, ornithology and mammalogy.

The results of the BioBlitz were favourable considering the short time-period provided to collect insight and information on the local species and have revealed the following: The reserve is home to more than 202 different plant species, which is of significant interest to local botany communities such as Custodians of Rare and Endangered Wildflowers and the South African National Biodiversity Institute that are now taking note of the great potential Babanango Game Reserve offers. Some 153 different bird species were identified along with six different species of fish.

Based on these results, another BioBlitz will be organised to ensure that all species can be actively recorded during the change of seasons, ensuring a greater understanding of this new protected area.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

Humpback Dolphins of Gansbaai

The Indian Ocean humpback dolphin (Sousa plumbea) has only been recognised as a distinct species a few years ago. Little is known by researchers, and even less by the public, about these often shy and elusive dolphins. Their name originates from a prominent hump below the rather small dorsal fin and therefore makes them easy to identify from other dolphins found along the South African coast. words - Marine Biologist Sandra Hรถrbst, Marine Dynamics / Dyer Island Cruises 78 responsible traveller

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Dyer Island Cruises Experience Image credit - Sandra Hรถrbst responsible traveller 79

CONSERVATION PROFILE Humpback dolphins are a medium sized dolphin and known to inhabit only a narrow coastal band with water less than 25 meters deep. They are often found traveling in small groups of less than 10 individuals. Their distribution stretches from the Bay of Bengal to False Bay in South Africa. Within South Africa their home range is limited to shallow, nearshore environments, over relatively short along-shore ranges of approximately 120km from Kosi Bay in the east and False Bay in the west. They are often encountered in protected bays, near estuaries and sometimes rocky reefs.

Coastal areas are facing ever increasing anthropogenic impacts which are threatening coastally dependant animals such as humpback dolphins. The species is listed internationally (IUCN – Red List) as ‘Endangered’. Although South Africa’s Indian Ocean humpback dolphins are protected under the Marine Living Resources Act (Act 18 of 1998), their preference for shallow and nearshore areas means they are living in some of the world’s most intensively used, modified and polluted waters.

Pollution in estuaries and nearshore waters is a major concern for the Indian Ocean humpback dolphin. Persistent organic pollutants accumulate in the blubber of marine mammals as they consume fish and can cause cancer, immune, reproductive dysfunction, and birth defects. Off South Africa, humpback dolphins have been found to contain the highest levels of such pollutants when compared to other dolphin species. Additionally, the ingestion of and entanglement in plastic pollution is a growing concern for marine mammals like humpback dolphins and often has fatal consequences.

To aid in conservation efforts for the humpback dolphins the Dyer Island Conservation Trust has collected data on the species since 2003 using the daily observational platform of Dyer Island Cruises, an award-winning responsible tourism company in Gansbaai (South Africa). The latest photo identification (ID) catalogue was created in 2014 to contribute to the long dataset collected on the species in this area previously and has been updated on a regular basis ever since. The photo ID catalogue of the greater Dyer Island area has contributed to projects at a national scale within the SouSA Consortium.

Through this nationwide collaboration between scientists contributing photo ID catalogues, research published in 2017 has identified 247 uniquely and well-marked humpback dolphins along the South African coast. From this, 80 responsible traveller

scientists were able to produce a first national abundance estimate for the population that was way below the previously estimated 1000, with numbers closer to 500 individuals.

The humpback dolphins in the greater Dyer Island area have been mostly seen at Uilenkraalsmond, a natural estuary that is seasonally open. However, there have also been occasional sightings in Pearly Beach, as well as on the coast towards Danger Point and even closer to Dyer Island. Through the national collaboration and comparison of the ID

CONSERVATION PROFILE Image credit - Sandra Hörbst

‘Coastal areas are facing ever increasing anthropogenic impacts which are threatening coastally dependant animals such as humpback dolphins... ’ responsible traveller 81

CONSERVATION PROFILE photographs we discovered that the dolphins from the greater Dyer Island area travel all the way to False Bay and are therefore the most westerly seen individuals of the species range.

Over the years we have not only taken ID photographs but also observed and recorded their occurrence and behaviour. Humpback dolphins have been seen swimming with the seasonally visiting southern right whales, playing with Cape fur seals as well as teaming up and chasing a great white shark.

Here we introduce you to four of our humpback dolphins that for many years have visited the bay on a regular basis.

Oupa #013

Captain Hook #003 82 responsible traveller

OUPA (#013) is a well-known Indian-Ocean humpback dolphin to our bay. We first photographed him in September 2014, the year we started the new humpback dolphin catalogue. Ever since he has been snapped by the camera on board the whale watching boat of Dyer Island Cruises regularly. Since 2014 we have encountered him on at least 44 occasions.

On most encounters, we have seen him individually from close to Danger Point to Pearly Beach and even along the De Clyde, a reef system, going from the mainland towards Dyer Island.

Image credit - W Gilmore

Image credit - Sandra Hรถrbst

CONSERVATION PROFILE CAPTAIN HOOK (#003) is one of our well-known females and her name came about because of her hook like dorsal fin. Since we started taking photographs of her in 2014, she was seen with her calf named BigZ. However, since June 2018, she has been sighted alone again, and separated from her young one. She always shows relaxed and calm behaviour around our whale watching vessel. We are curious how long it will take to encounter her again with a new calf.

FINGERS (#001) is one of the dolphins that have been known to us for a long time and is seen on a regular basis is. The sex of this dolphin is unknown, but it is suspected that it

Fingers #001

Newton #029

is a male. Fingers is seen in the bay throughout the year, around the Uilenkraalsmond estuary, and has been at least 65 encounters have been documented since 2014.

NEWTON (#029) is one of the more adventurous individuals we encounter in the greater Dyer Island area. This dolphin is never shy of the boat and always comes closer to have a look at us and the vessel. Newton has also been observed swimming with a pod of bottlenose dolphins and playing with Cape fur seals on various occasions. Newton was last encountered in our area on the 17th of March, just before lockdown.ic Name: Megaptera

Image credit - Sandra Hรถrbst

Image credit - W Gilmore responsible traveller 83

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Experience The Wonder Of The Humpback Dolphins And The Rest Of The Marine Big Five With Dyer Island Cruises The Dyer Island ecosystem off the coast of Gansbaai is unique in the world, home to the Marine Big Five™ - Sharks, Whales, Dolphins, the Cape fur seal, and the endangered African Penguin. It is here that the team of Marine Dynamics/Dyer Island Cruises operate with due care for the species they share with guests every day. Join them on an unforgettable and educational marine safari.

The many sheltered areas of the bay provide the breeding ground for the Southern Right Whales that migrate here from the subAntarctic islands between June to December each year. Out of this traditional whale season, you may also see Humpback whales that migrate along the coastline. In the early half of the year you may see the shy Bryde’s whale.

Gansbaai is world renowned for the iconic great 84 responsible traveller

white sharks that visit the bay. This is one of the most accessible populations in the world as the sharks are often found just metres from shore or hunting around the 60 000 strong seal colony on Geyser Rock, opposite Dyer Island.

You may also be lucky to see the bronze whaler sharks with their shimmering gold colour that enthrals nature lovers. We have three dolphin species that move through these waters – the Common dolphin, the Bottlenose, and the Humpback dolphin. The African penguin breeds on Dyer Island and is sometimes seen in groups swimming at sea. Sadly, the species is classified as endangered with an estimated 13 300 breeding pairs left in South Africa.

www.dyerislandcruises. co.za

CONSERVATION PROFILE

CONTACT: MARINE DYNAMICS www.dyerislandcruises .co.za whales@marinedynamicstravel.com ph: +27 (0) 82 801 8014

By joining this tour, you can be assured that YOUR CHOICE MAKES A DIFFERENCE for conservation and the community.

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Finding ‘me time’ I

on a crowded cruise liner

f you enjoy your personal space, the thought of being crammed aboard a floating hotel with thousands of other people is probably furthest from your mind. So, when I was invited to experience MSC Orchestra on a five-day cruise out of Durban, I, with much trepidation, said yes. Thankfully, the experience… and my desired need for space, way exceed my expectations.

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As any avid cruise passenger would know, Durban’s passenger terminal has much to be desired, especially when thousands of people descend on it in the period of a few hours.

Fortunately, we had a priority ‘Easy Board’ pass allowing us to fast-track the embarking process. It is a comfort to know that as part of the KwaZulu Cruise Terminal Consortium (KTC), MSC Cruises has invested over R200 million for the creation of a new terminal. It will be a multi-user, state-of-the-art building that will appropriately have an innovative Zulu design which will assuredly be iconic for Durban.

Our end of February 2020 cruise was pre-Covid-19 regulations in South Africa but MSC Cruises had already taken the health and safety of passengers to heart with pre-boarding health questionnaires, temperature checks and abundant sanitising in every shape and form. So, with paperwork dealt with and passport relinquished I was free to roam the extensive vessel.

I walk through the spacious elegant interiors… past a sweeping staircase, grand piano, and huge potted palms, along corridors where downlights dot the ceiling like a starlit sky. Past restaurants, bars, and coffee shops that I would soon become well acquainted with. The upper deck is vast, the pools crystal clear and the deck chairs await occupation. The sun gloriously warm and the sky blue.

A light three-course lunch with chilled chardonnay at Villa Borghese, the ship’s lower main dining room, sets the scene for the next few days, as does the wonderfully friendly smile from John Philip our waiter, who is from the Philippines - just one of the many international staff on board. I head to my cabin, slide the door open and take in the harbour views briefly before heading to the mandatory safety briefing before departure.

With tugs in place, excitement growing and two long blasts from the ship’s horn, we set sail, leaving the confines of Durban harbour for the deep blue sea. We are on the five-day Mozambique cruise to Pomene Bay, with a full day at sea each way. But for now, it is time to sit back and relax, make new friends, and enjoy my first cocktail.

Easing my way off the crowded deck I head towards the stern, through La Piazzetta, the ship’s buffet and pizzeria and the 4 Seasons à la carte restaurant located on deck 13, to discover a wonderfully peaceful deck with just a few tables and chairs and a wonderful view of the ocean in the ship’s wake. This would become my 88 responsible traveller

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favourite spot, perfect for a quite cup of tea and plate of sweet treats from the buffet. Lingering over my tea, I enjoy the peace and quiet. So much so that I choose to stay and experience nature’s show – a magnificent sunset over the ocean, in preference to the early evening entertainment, a cabaret show.

There are several options for dining aboard MSC Orchestra… from Italian dining at La Piazzetta, which is said to have ‘the finest pizza outside Naples’ and ideal for those wanting a quick snack (or to ward off a hangover), the Four Seasons with its gourmet Italian dining experience to authentic Dim Sum specialties and a wonderful selection of sushi at the Shanghai Chinese Restaurant – perfect for a light lunch, amongst others.

There are numerous bars and lounges to choose from, whether its dancing to live music in the ‘leopard-style’ Savannah Bar, enjoying predinner drinks in La Cantinella Wine Bar with its great selection of fine wines or relaxing for a night cap in the La Cubana Cigar Room.

Our dinner was scheduled for 8:30pm at L’Ibiscus, the upper main dining room. It offers 90 responsible traveller

an extensive menu that includes both Italian and a selection of International cuisine – I enjoyed crispy spring rolls, an authentic Durban curry, followed by deliciously refreshing sorbet.

An Amarula laced coffee at the El Sombrero Bar on the upper deck was the perfect nightcap after an evening of compelling conversation and much laughter – we were after all a group of South African media.

The ‘at sea’ days offer a great opportunity to enjoy the varied entertainment and activities programme, and resort-style amenities available - from arts and craft classes and dance lessons to sports tournaments and even gym workouts.

Then there is the option of just relaxing in the sun – be early, as the sundeck fills up quickly and the noise level can be excessive.

I choose rather to enjoy a day at the Aurea Spa and make the most of my day pass to the Thermal Area with its steam room, sauna, hot tub and relaxation area - a great way to unwind and let the cares of a busy work life disappear.

A 30-minute Bali massage at the expert hands of therapist Gretchen Mee Ylaran has me well rested and relaxed. I return to my cabin, grab my book and head out onto my balcony, but the

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sea breeze and fresh air soon induces the need for a nap. The comfortable double bed, and ship’s motion soon lulls me to sleep.

Much fun awaits when evening comes, from world-class International shows at the Covent Garden Theatre, dancing the night away at the disco, getting into the karaoke groove at the Shaker Bar or taking your chances at the casino.

More relaxed options include whiling away the time at the internet café, relaxing in the library with its great selection of books in a variety of languages, or just chatting over coffee in one of the coffee shops with new friends.

The highlight of the cruise is our shore day.

Up bright and early to catch the first tender out, we catch the sunrise, a quick cappuccino and breakfast on the run, and join the queue – thankfully, we have priority boarding, so we are soon heading to shore. Our destination, Pomene Bay, on the Mozambique mainland set between the blue Indian Ocean and the waters where the mangroves grow.

It is sometimes incorrectly referred to as Pomene Island - which I can understand why as it is a spectacular sandbar extending along the shore giving it the appearance of an island.

The lagoon that protects this extraordinary bay is part of the Pomene Nature Reserve, a protected marine area that has managed to preserve its authentic and wild beauty thanks to its remote location.

On arrival, which was from the lagoon side, we are greeted with soft white sand, mangrove swamps and palm-thatched cabanas. A wooden walkway leads us through the local market, with the usual Mozambique curios and textiles as well as fridges stocked with chilled local beer, but 7:30am was way too early!!

I decided on a long (9.3km return) walk along the beach to the end of the sandbar before the heat of the day. Being the first footsteps on a beautiful deserted stretch of beach is quite a privilege. The warm Indian Ocean waves roll over my toes onto the pristine sandy beach, the clouds reflected in their wake as they roll back.

MSC Orchestra looks small in the distance – feeling miles away, I breathe in the fresh sea air and enjoy the peace and tranquillity that comes with being alone with just my thoughts and a few seabirds.

A fellow passenger, clearly also enjoying some ‘me time’, takes a skinny dip in the ocean – visible, but far enough away for modesty. I meet an Indian man who lives a few streets responsible traveller 93

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‘More than anything else, we care for the environment in which we operate, the guests who sail with us, the people who work with us, the cities we call, and the communities we visit...’ responsible traveller 95

away from me – it really is a small world – and try solving the world’s problems with two African businessmen from Johannesburg. This was one of the things I loved about this cruise – the demographics were so representative of South Africa, a South Africa where everybody got along with everybody else. No politics and no animosity.

In addition to long walks, one can explore the surrounding nature reserve with the help of a guide, immersing yourself in lush leafy vegetation, with an abundance of different species. Other excursions include a trip to the ruins of the old Pomene Hotel, either by vehicle or, for the more adventurous, by quad bike, mangrove lagoon boat trips and, weather permitting, snorkelling in the pristine waters offshore.

Beach time done and body and soul well sun kissed, an icy cold local Laurentina beer from the market was on order. Shopping at local markets is a great way to support the local community, many of whom are employed by MSC Cruises at Pomene Bay. We had decided that lunch back on the ship was preferential to the long queues waiting for the beach braai… and opted for the first return trip to the ship. A quiet lunch at La Piazzetta is followed by a few hours of gloriously quiet pool time before the crowds return. Add some more spa pampering, a well-deserved nap and then another spectacular sunset. Such bliss!!

We have the opportunity to meet with a few of the high-ranking members of the crew and learn a little about the history and ethos of the company.

MSC Cruises is borne out of a long line of captains and ship owners who have been playing their part in the history of navigation and seamanship - a family journey that started at sea in 1675 and which hasn’t stopped since.

The oceans and seas have always been integral to MSC Cruises, and thus they have a deep responsibility to preserve and protect them. ‘More than anything else, we care for the environment in which we operate, the guests who sail with us, the people who work with us, the cities we call, and the communities we visit. Our environmental efforts are an ongoing journey’.

We are given an overview of these environmental initiatives which include energy, water, waste, and recycling initiatives, but my penchant for more detail requires I dig a little deeper - see sidebar for more details…

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With some of the horror stories one hears about waste been dumped overboard and streams of pollution streaming behind cruise liners I am delighted to hear that MSC Cruises is committed to preserving the environment and being responsible in the way they deal with their waste as well as their carbon footprint.

As they say, ‘Our environmental efforts are an ongoing journey. We will keep exploring and developing new solutions for our future – and existing – ships and will be fitting our fleet with even more innovative solutions for a lower environmental impact’.

Meeting done it was time for some elegant dining, the Captain’s Lunch. I find myself seated next to the very charming Captain Nicola Gravante, who tells me that he loves

South Africa and just happens to live in the Eastern Cape.

Born in Italy, he is a third-generation seaman, after his Grandfather and Uncle, and fell in love with the sea and ships going to visit his relatives when they were close by in the port of Naples. His MSC Cruises journey began in 2018 on the MSC Musica, followed a year later with the promotion to Master on MSC Orchestra.

He continues to grow in experience and says that ‘in this business there are no days that you do not learn, and I am happy to continuously learn and enrich my endless backpack called experience. My goal at the moment is to help the young talents to develop in their careers, to empower them and make them ‘grow bigger’ than my generation’.

The menu offers a choice of traditional Italian dishes with a hint of local – I had Parma ham with grilled vegetables in basel sauce, spaghetti aglio olio (garlic and olive oil) with a sprinkling of parmesan, a delicious chicken biryani, and delicious carrot cake for dessert.

With chilled South African white wine.

Our cruise was almost over… one last sunset, another cocktail or two, some dancing perhaps, and one more night being gently rocked to sleep.

So, the big question… did I find my ‘me time’?

And would I do this again? The answer to both would no doubt be a resounding ‘yes’. •

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Environmental Initiatives: ENERGY : Only energy-efficient LED and fluorescent lighting is used as well as energyefficient appliances including refrigerators, water heaters, dishwashers, washing machines and dryers. The HVAC - smart heating, ventilation and air conditioning, systems on board are designed to reduce energy consumption by distributing heat and cold intelligently, and are set up to recover heat from warmer areas of a ship in order to heat those which need it more.

WATER PRESERVATION : A philosophy of using water sparingly and efficiently has led to the use of technologies to reduce water usage and to awareness campaigns on board their ships to encourage water responsibility.

As a rule, they do not take away water from ports and coastal communities and virtually all water we use on board is produced onboard using high performance water production technologies to produce thousands of litres of fresh tap water per day from seawater. On a cabin level, all MSC ships are fitted with vacuum lavatories, which require little flushing water.

WASTEWATER : No black wastewater from shipboard operations leaves their ships without proper treatment and any discharges undergo a comprehensive purification process. Using an Advanced Wastewater Treatment System (AWTS) wastewater is treated to an extremely high quality by mixing different waste streams together and filtering out the larger components. What comes out on the other end then gets processed even further through exceptionally fine filtration and treatment processes, to produce water discharges of a higher standard than most municipal wastewater requirements around the world.

Hazardous substances and pollutants are filtered out by the AWTS digested by bacteria.

To avoid risking harm to marine life, the remaining purified wastewater is disinfected

by UV processing and never chlorine. Key indicators are monitored to ensure any remaining bacteria levels are favourable, rendering the wastewater near tap water quality before discharge.

The separated solid residue is removed from the cycle. It is then dried, compacted, and compressed into high-grade pellets. These pellets can act a source of fuel for specific 98 responsible traveller

onboard energy needs, or as in the case of MSC Orchestra, offloaded in Durban where it can be repurposed for energy production. Other liquid waste that may be hazardous to the environment such as cooking oil, oily water, machinery lubricants and cleaning products are never discharged into the sea but are offloaded ashore by authorised companies.

SOLID WASTE MANAGEMENT : All organic waste, as well as recyclable disposable items including plastics, metals, paper, and glass, are collected, and separated by specially trained waste handling crew members. Waste is compacted, separated, or incinerated, and residual waste is carefully delivered to dedicated port facilities, in this case Durban.

With the high number of guests and crew on board annually solid waste management is a key area of focus and our practices aim at reducing, reusing, recycling the waste that is generated. The onboard Environmental Officer is responsible for ensuring that the MSC Environmental Plan is correctly executed and oversees the onboard garbage management.

Eliminating single-use plastics - Under their Plastics Reduction Programme, MSC Cruises is in the final phase of effectively eliminating an extensive number of plastic items from all its ship operations and ashore and will replace them with environmentally friendly solutions. As a first step, all plastic straws have been replaced with 100% compostable and biodegradable substitutes. Moreover, drinks are no longer automatically be served with a straw.

Guests who may require a straw will still be able to choose from a variety of environmentally friendly options.

MSC Cruises is working with a range of international and local suppliers in areas where the ships are deployed and is providing eco-friendly alternatives made of 100% biodegradable resins, consisting of renewable resources including corn- or sugar-based polylactic acid, bamboo, paper or other organic materials. In addition, MSC is also actively working with suppliers at all levels in the supply chain to effectively remove single-use plastics in products and packaging wherever possible.

EXPLORING NEW TECHNOLOGIES AND SOLUTIONS : All their newly built ships either have hybrid Exhaust Gas Cleaning Systems

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(EGCS) installed or, in the case of some of the future ships, will be fuelled by Liquefied Natural Gas (LNG). For the longer-serving ships in their fleet, a robust retrofitting programme has been initiated to equip older ships with hybrid EGCS technology.

Compared to standard marine diesel using conventional fuel, LNG reduces SOx emissions by more than 99% and NOx emissions by up to 85%.

In addition, all future new builds will be equipped with a Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) system. SCR technology helps reduce nitrogen oxide (NOx) into harmless nitrogen (N2) and water through advanced active emissions control technology - MSC Grandiosa will be our first ship equipped with SCR technology.

COMMITMENT TO CARBON-NEUTRAL STATUS : To bring the climate impact of their entire fleet to zero, MSC Cruises will be carbon-neutral, compensating all the CO2 emissions from the fleet as of 2020 (date to be confirmed).

MSC Cruises will offset the emissions directly and on behalf of its guests through a portfolio of projects, including a growing portion of existing blue carbon offsets while working to develop additional projects that are generated from the oceans and that enhance marine biodiversity and support communities that rely on the sea.

Click HERE for more info...

Commitment to increasing job opportunities MSC Cruises is committed to increasing job opportunities for South Africans. In partnership with the Department of Trade and Industry, the company’s Shosholoza Ocean Academy provides free three-month training courses for young South Africans who qualify through MSC Cruises’ medical requirements.

five years, which will bring around R5 billion in salaries back to South Africa.

MSC said in a statement recently that Captain Salvatore Sarno, the chairperson of MSC SA, said, “It is part of our company’s long-term vision to support the president’s call for job creation by creating 5 000 more jobs within five years.”

Those who successfully complete the course will be eligible to be employed on MSC Cruises’ ships across the world. MSC Cruises plans to get 3 000 to 5 000 new placements from South Africa over the next

MSC is adding 17 new ships as it invests into its fleet it had invested in for over the next 10 years, which would need an average of 2 000 crew members. It would add up to between 30 000 to and 35 000 new crew and MSC

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plans to get 3 000 to 5 000 new placements from South Africa from now until 2024.

In addition to crew placement, the new academy aimed to provide training that was relevant to the cruise sector, as well as technicians, welders, boilermakers and maintenance and repair personnel for the container and cargo sector. Students would be required to do theoretical training and serve on either a cruise or container vessel on any of MSC’s vessels globally to gain handson experience and expertise while studying towards their chosen area of interest.

MSC Cruises said it was committed to investing in African tourism. “This investment has included infrastructure development in Mozambique – a popular cruising destination for South Africans – and continued collaboration with the Namibian government, as Walvis Bay is one of the ports that MSC Cruises sails to.

There are also knock-on benefits for the tourist industries in the destinations that MSC Cruises sails to, which have been enhanced by increased passenger volumes.”

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Journey across the Sahel ...a World First in African Adventure

Walking in Mali with local guide

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words - David Ferguson, New Chapter Marketing & PR pics - supplied

R

ecently, Reza Pakravan, a British explorer and film maker, became the first person in modern history to have travelled the full length of the Sahel. A belt of land stretching across the southern boundary of the Sahara desert, the Sahel spans the width of Africa, from Senegal to Somalia, and is home to some of the harshest conditions on the planet, where the effects of climate change are most felt and rebel uprisings are common.

Like many explorers, Reza has had a fascination with Africa since he was a boy, but felt there were still vast areas of the continent we knew little about. He wanted to document these forgotten frontiers and tell the story of those who live there, whilst setting himself a new challenge.

Having made a host of incredible journeys, including cycling the Sahara (for which he holds a Guinness World Record) and the length of the planet and travelling 4000km through the Amazon, Reza felt he was ready for this latest adventure, but it turned out to be his most courageous challenge to date and stretched him both physically and mentally like never before. “The hardships of travel were familiar, but being confronted first hand with the life and death consequence that climate change has wrought upon the land, and uncovering how desertification has contributed to the greatest internal migration ever witnessed on the planet and has helped feed a rise in terrorism and migration, was mentally hard to deal with.�

Reza travelled across the continent by whatever means were available to the local people, whether that was on buses, in the back of pick-up trucks or by foot, and ate the same local foods from the same bowls, allowing him to a unique insight into the lands and cultures through which he travelled.

Along the way, Reza was initiated by an animist priest in a bloody voodoo ceremony in Burkina Faso, where large blisters mysteriously appeared on his hands. He was held at a gun point by human smugglers in Niger and responsible traveller 103

Setting up camp by the river Bani in Mali

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experienced travelling with migrants for part of their journey to Europe. He visited the sexually liberated Wodaabe nomad tribes, where married women have the right to take a different married man as a sexual partner (the man has the opportunity to refuse, though this is rarely exercised) and houses consist of little more than portable beds.

Reza stayed with isolated communities on the shores of Lake Chad, whose waters have shrunk by an amazing 90% in the last fifty years. He learnt how 10 million people have been affected by this shrinkage, with most now relying on humanitarian relief to survive, and how the area has become a hotbed for the Boko Haram recruitment, as young men become desperate, unable to make a living on farms or from fishing.

Reza hit Sudan as protestors clashed with the military, following the toppling of dictator Omar al-Bashir, and had to dodge bullets in Khartoum, before being arrested and kicked out of Darfur

by Sudanese intelligence. Towards the end of his epic journey, Reza crossed the Danakil Depression in Ethiopia, experiencing temperatures rising to 50 degrees celcius, and met the Afar people who live in the hottest place on earth.

“I need some time to digest what happened in the last few months. What I have seen during my journey I am not going to forget anytime soon.

It made me appreciate how complicated this region is and I feel so privileged to tell its untold stories. To understand migration issue and Wodaabe woman standing by her belongings

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terrorism one must deeply understand religious and cultural dynamics as well as take a deep look into climate change and desertification.

There is no simple solution. Amongst the challenges I faced I also saw incredible reasons for hope. 15% underway, the Great Green Wall is set to be an 8000km wall composed of thousands of trees, stretching across Africa and hoping to help to stop desertification and bring life back to the Sahel. Once complete, the Great Green Wall will be the largest living structure on the planet, three times the size of the Great Barrier Reef.

In Mali I was in awe of how communities came together to help with the annual refurbishment of the Great Mosque of Djenné, which is made entirely of mud. If the Sahelian countries and its people come together and get behind the Great Green Wall, it will raise the hope for solving many problems in the region. There are tangible economic benefits including selling carbon offset to developed nations and subsequently creation of a whole new green industry in Africa.”

Reza’s four-part TV documentary series will air worldwide this autumn. Chronicling his daring journey he documents issues such as tribal wars, climate change, human trafficking, poaching and religious friction, whilst crossing the hottest zone on earth at the hottest time of the year.

The expedition was supported by the Scientific Exploration Society and Reza would like to thank sponsors Sun Chlorella, Craghoppers, Lestoff, Wildling, Tentsile, BodyMe and Eagle Creek. •

Our host family at Mtwara

Lake Chad Boudouma Tribe Interviewing a migrant in a ghetto in Agadez

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CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS ShotSpotter helps reduce rhino poaching in Kruger National Park Gunshot technology has driven an almost 60% reduction in the number of rhino killed inside the park’s Intensified Protection Zone (IPZ).

ShotSpotter, Inc. the global leader in gunshot detection systems is pleased toannounce that the ranger service of the Kruger National Park has successfully driven an almost 60% reduction in the number of rhino killed within ShotSpotter’s coverage area inside the iconic park’s Intensified Protection Zone (IPZ).

Since November 2018, ShotSpotter has been incrementally deployed across several areas of the IPZ. These areas were specifically chosen due to the high density of rhino living within the coverage areas and the strategic importance of these animals to the overall rhino gene pool.

During the 12 months prior to ShotSpotter’s

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deployment, officials at Kruger National Park reported that 12 rhino were killed in these areas.

However, since the deployment of ShotSpotter 18 months ago only 5 rhino have been poached in these areas.

In that time, several poachers have also been arrested in part due to the deployment of the technology, including the arrest of one of Kruger’s most wanted and high profile poachers. The sheer size of Kruger National Park makes it very difficult for rangers to detect and intercept poachers. However, the alwayson force multiplier effect of ShotSpotter has enabled rangers to detect the location of gunfire incidents in under 60 seconds. The resultant speed and accuracy of the response provides the rangers with greater opportunity to catch

CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS poachers literally red-handed and recover rifles, ammunition and other poaching equipment, and aids in the gathering of evidence, which is critical for a successful prosecution.

“ShotSpotter has allowed us to take back the night. We now have an interception rate well above 50% within the coverage area, which means the poachers are literally flipping a coin when they come in” say Ken Maggs, Head Ranger of the Kruger National Park. “ShotSpotter is a powerful real-time intelligence tool that combined with the skills and dedication of our rangers, the K9 unit and the Air-wing is being successfully leveraged in the prevention and reduction of rhino poaching.”

ShotSpotter gunshot detection technology was originally created to combat urban gun violence.

ShotSpotter Labs, the technology innovation arm

of ShotSpotter with a mission of helping protect wildlife and the environment, adapted the system to work in harsh climates and without electricity.

Financially, the introduction of ShotSpotter to Kruger National Park was made possible by a generous donation from international donors via the Care For Wild Rhino sanctuary, which is focused on saving orphaned baby rhinos whose mothers have been shot and killed.

“The Kruger National Park is at the epicentre of the fight to save the rhino from extinction.

ShotSpotter is proving to be a powerful deterrent against poaching, which in turn is resulting in fewer rhinos being killed inside the coverage area,” said Ralph A. Clark, President and Chief Executive Officer of ShotSpotter. “We look forward to continuing to be of service to the Kruger as we help them fight the scourge of rhino poaching.”

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CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Jock Safari Lodge forms partnership with Wilderness Foundation Africa In Youth Development Programmes around the Kruger National Park Jock Safari Lodge has formed an official long term partnership with the Wilderness Foundation Africa (WFA) to further conservation education and youth development within the broader community of the Kruger National Park.

Jock Safari Lodge was the first private concession granted within the Kruger National Park. It has a long-standing commitment to both sustainable and community development and has for many years worked to upskill and uplift individuals to greater heights. The collaboration with the WFA is however positioned to take community empowerment and development to another level.

Says Louis Strauss, the General Manager & Director of Jock Safari Lodge: ‘We are extremely honoured and excited about the new prospects and possibilities that this partnership brings, which will enable us to have a greater impact in engaging with, and including those that can work alongside us to preserve this rich landscape that we are so passionate about.’

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With a 48-year track record, the Wilderness Foundation Africa sets out to protect and sustain wildlife and wilderness through integrated conservation and education programmes. These range from anti-poaching and large landscape wilderness management, to developing young leaders from disadvantaged communities for a career in conservation, to interlink and close the circle between the cornerstones of the WFA, namely species, spaces and people.

The non-profit CALEO Foundation, which owns Jock Safari Lodge, has as its objective to make a legacy investment to help protect, restore and sustain threatened ecosystems, wildlife and flora resources and their habitats, as well as surrounding communities. Strauss continued: ‘As the CALEO Foundation so rightly says, small steps can make a difference, and we are eager to see the positive effects that this partnership will have on those around us, and for the Kruger region overall.’

CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Jock Safari Lodge has made a life-long commitment to continuous investment in the WFA projects, that will this year, be launched with a R400 000 injection in two key intervention programmes to be rolled out as part of the Jock/ WFA partnership.

The Siyazenzela leadership and employability skills training programme is aimed at previously disadvantaged youth (between the ages of 18 and 26). Siyazenzela (meaning ‘We are doing it for ourselves’) training courses are run as a four-week short term project with facilitation in focus areas such as Emotional & Social Wellness; Occupational & Financial Wellness; and Physical & Environmental Wellness.

Participants gain job preparedness skills and are provided with job shadowing opportunities.

Upon graduation they are enrolled into a resilience support programme that ensures that they stay connected to the programme for peer

mentoring purposes, monitoring and psychosocial support.

The second programme, known as the Imbewu Wilderness Trails, aims to connect youth to their cultural-environmental heritage. The trails draw attention to the resilient and healing power of nature for personal and social transformation.

This often leads students to make life changing choices and lifestyle changes that equip vulnerable youth to be economically active and environmentally responsible citizens.

Dr Andrew Muir, CEO of Wilderness Foundation Africa says: ‘We are excited to be partnering with Jock Safari Lodge, with their impeccable commitment to sustainable development and leaders in nature-based tourism. There is much to learn from each other in the common cause of ensuring that our natural heritage is preserved and enjoyed by all citizens of our country.’

www.jocksafarilodge.com

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CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS UNFAIR GAME - new book by Lord Ashcroft You May Have Heard about Lion Farming in South Africa – now you can read the truth in the launch of a new book titled UNFAIR GAME by Lord Ashcroft.

cub petting, walking with lions and volunteering at lion “sanctuaries” (in actual fact breeding farms) are somehow contributing to the conservation of lions in the wild.

South Africa has long been regarded as a conservation champion and a nation deeply committed to the ongoing protection of its wilderness areas and the iconic wildlife species that call them home. However, these are challenging times for the “Rainbow Nation” as its game reserves and national parks battle the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic and associated lockdown that has devastated valuable revenue streams derived from eco-tourism.

Nothing could be further from the truth. The lions are bred commercially, with cubs being removed from their mothers after only a few days, triggering the lionesses into a forced oestrus that makes them ready for breeding again. The cubs are hand-reared, being used in cub petting activities in which tourists pay considerable amounts of money to cuddle them and pose for “selfies”. When they become too big for this activity they are used in “walking with lions” experiences, again for high-paying tourists, before being sold to canned hunting farms to be shot by equally high-paying international hunters who “book” their lions online.

The country’s conservation agencies and non-profit organisations are also fighting a war on a different front against a government whose policies and agendas are consistently undermining efforts to curb the illegal wildlife trade, sullying its international reputation in the process. This is nowhere more evident than in the controversial and deeply abhorrent captive lion breeding industry that exploits up to 12,000 “farmed” lions for the purposes of feeding the heinous canned hunting sector and equally disturbing and burgeoning trade in lion bones.

Once again in the spotlight thanks to “Unfair Game” - a new book by former British peer and philanthropist Lord Michael Ashcroft that’s released in South Africa on 15 July in time for the country’s Mandela Day celebrations, this disgusting industry continues to disgrace South Africa internationally with its appalling levels of cruelty and commercial exploitation of Africa’s apex predator, popularised the world over in Disney’s “Lion King” franchise.

All royalties from the book are going to wildlife charities in South Africa.

Sadly, when it comes to South Africa, “Simba” and his friends are in a world of trouble, as Lord Ashcroft points out in the book that highlights his year-long investigation into the dark and dangerous world of the captive-bred lion industry.

It’s a sickening trade that unwittingly involves the tourism and volunteering industries, with international travellers from across the world duped into believing that activities such as lion

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Death does not end the degradation for South Africa’s captive lions, with their butchered carcasses sent in their hundreds to the Far East for use in ‘traditional’ Chinese medicine. It’s a cycle of cruelty fuelled by incredible greed for the billions of Rands it makes a small, select cabal of farmers, breeders and hunters.

Unfair Game exposes every aspect of this evil business and poses a huge conundrum in this time of COVID-19 by highlighting the increasing dangers to public health which lions and their body parts pose which experts predict could spark another major, global health crisis. It also illustrates the way in which the South African Government has enabled this awful industry, raising questions of corruption and the capture of state conservation and policing agencies and their leading officials.

Coming at a time when the rest of the world is moving away from animal exploitation, according rights and sentient status to rare and endangered species, Unfair Game is an indication of how South Africa stands to be ostracised and pilloried for its shocking disregard for this most iconic of animals.

The book is officially launched in South Africa on 15 July 2020 and will be available at a cost of R275.00 at all leading book shops and online.

www.lordashcroftwildlife.com

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MICHAEL ASHCROFT

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CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS The buck stops at Vergelegen An ambitious project for veld management and ecological research, that combines ancient animal lore with state-of the-art technology, took a step forward when five eland were released at one of South Africa’s best-known wine estates.

The arrival of the eland (Taurotragus oryx) at Vergelegen in Somerset West forms the latest stage of the Gantouw Project. This is a programme of the non-profit organisation Cape Town Environmental Education Trust (CTEET), and has been in operation since 2015 under its Nature Care Fund. The project mimics the historic migration of eland, using them as a natural driver to boost ecosystem diversity.

“Gantouw is a word that is derived from the Koi language and means ‘the way of the eland’,” said Dr Anthony Roberts, CEO of CTEET. “This refers to a path that eland carved into the land over many years as they migrated back and forth from the Cape Flats over the Hottentots Holland Mountains.

“Urbanisation has resulted in fragmented ecosystems, many of which are collapsing. By introducing eland and allowing them to browse vegetation and prevent bush encroachment, one of the main threats to the ecological health of these systems, the characteristic diversity of the veld starts to return and the ecosystem functions more effectively.”

The impact of the eland on the Vergelegen veld will be monitored using drones and spectral imaging, as well as on-the-ground flora and fauna surveys. This will indicate the animals’ grazing preferences, their impact on flora and fauna, and estimations of veld carrying capacity.

The eland group comprises three cows and two neutered bulls, transported from Elandsberg, Wellington. The project will run for five years then be reviewed. Vergelegen has provided a fenced 10 hectare camp near the hilltop wine cellar, secluded from its hospitality and management operations. CTEET has erected a boma in this camp to shelter the eland and estate management has undertaken to monitor their health. CTEET will conduct research to obtain baseline data as well as ongoing ecological monitoring, and will submit an annual report.

The first phase of the Gantouw Project focused on Cape Flats Dune Strandveld, which is endangered and only found on the lowlands of Cape Town. At Vergelegen the eland will graze on various species of fynbos including renosterbos, osteospermum, searsia, helichrysum, oxalis, various grasses and restios.

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Much of the original vegetation at Vergelegen has revived since the estate management embarked on South Africa’s largest privately funded alien vegetation clearing project, said Vergelegen MD Wayne Coetzer. Completed in 2018, the project has restored 2200 hectares of fynbos vegetation, while supporting job creation and skills development in local communities.

The eland research will form part of a PhD thesis by ecologist Petro Botha, the Gantouw Project Manager. The estate has a long history of collaborating with both local and international universities so that students and professionals can further their education through various projects at Vergelegen, said Coetzer. By end-2018 there had been 24 formal studies: seven undergraduate, eleven postgraduate and six PhD studies. Of these, 19 were from local institutions and five from international institutions.

“We are delighted to be able to play a part in this far-sighted project and look forward to seeing the research findings in due course,” said Coetzer. “We hope the knowledge gained at the estate will help to protect other precious natural habitats.”

Vergelegen was the first Biodiversity and Wine Initiative Champion in 2005, and was awarded the Wildlife and Environment Society of South Africa (WESSA) 2019 corporate award, which recognises the wine estate’s sustained commitment to environmental initiatives. The Gantouw Project is proudly sponsored as an environmental responsibility project by Quemic, a unique and dynamic provider of integrated risk solutions within the safety and security environment.

www.vergelegen.co.za

CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Unique Conservation Opportunity with Tintswalo Lapalala to help collar the Wild Dogs of the Waterberg Conservation enthusiasts have the rare opportunity to book a safari package at Tintswalo Lapalala over the Heritage Day long weekend of 24 September 2020, to join a veterinary team and scientists from the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) while they collar a number of African Wild Dogs (Lycaon pictus) in the Lapalala Wilderness Reserve (Limpopo).

The African Wild Dog is Southern Africa’s most endangered large carnivore, with only about 438 left in all of South Africa. Conservation history was made in April (2020) when 10 adult dogs, notably one of the last free-roaming packs of the Waterberg, were successfully captured and relocated to a holding facility on the Lapalala Reserve. In the reserve they will be safe from pervasive threats such as hunting, poisons, road collisions, snaring and habitat loss, which have over the years reduced the population to near extinction.

The dogs adapted quickly in the boma at Lapalala and within a few weeks a litter of pups was born. The eleven pups are now strong enough to be released into the reserve, together with the 10 adults. The first step however is to raise funds to purchase VHS and satellite tracking collars, which has presented the unique opportunity for guests to not only donate, but physically participate as sponsors of the project.

Derek van der Merwe from the Endangered Wildlife Trust says that it is critically important to safeguard this pack within the Lapalala Wilderness Reserve. The scientific monitoring of the pack will help to secure the future conservation of the species, particularly in the Waterberg. It is essential to keep track of their movement patterns, habitat utilization, and

population demographics, and to avoid snaring and poaching incidents and breakouts.

He says: ‘This particular pack is very used to going through fences as the Waterberg area in general is full of game fences. However, we are hoping that the time spent in the boma has given them some respect for fences and that they won’t head straight out of the reserve after release.’

Spreading over 48 500 hectares of pristine bushveld, the Lapalala Wilderness Reserve is one of South Africa’s largest private nature reserves and is recognized as a champion of sustainable wildlife conservation. CEO Glenn Phillips says that this Wild Dog conservation project is another important conservation milestone for Lapalala. ‘We are however under no illusions that these dogs will eventually leave the expanse of the reserve and continue to do what they have always done. Roam free. We are very privileged to have been in a position to provide a temporary home for these wonderful, critically endangered animals, and trust that the role we played has provided them the best possible chance of survival.’

Tintswalo Lapalala’s Wild Dog Collaring Conservation package is available to 12 guests only, for the long weekend of 24 September 2020. Children are welcome. Guests will have the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to take close-up photographs of the Wild Dog adults and pups feeding. They will also attend a briefing session by the veterinary team who will explain the collaring procedure, before they take part in the exercise which aims to collar at least two of the dogs. The release of the dogs into the reserve will take place on a later date (to be confirmed).

www.tintswalo.com

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CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Samara Private Game Reserve joins a global community of leading naturebased tourism businesses advocating a sustainable tourism Samara Private Game Reserve is delighted to announce its acceptance as a Fellow Member of The Long Run – a global community of nature-based tourism businesses committed to meeting the highest standards of sustainability encompassing the 4 Cs: Conservation, Community, Culture and Commerce.

erating carbon sinks, all the while functioning as a ‘living laboratory’ for researchers from around the world. This conservation commitment is underpinned by a strong sense of social responsibility.

Samara employs 60 mostly local staff and is involved in skills training, community development and the preservation of indigenous knowledge.

“We find ourselves in excellent company with more than 70 partners from 22 different countries, collectively safeguarding over 21 million acres of nature, protecting 30,000 plant and animal species, supporting 6,300 jobs, celebrating 120 cultures and improving the lives of 175,000 people,” says Sarah Tompkins, founder of Samara.

Just 26 guests at a time are invited to join Samara’s ongoing journey, with an emphasis on active participation in Samara’s projects. Accordingly, as well as the usual safari game drives, bush walks and wilderness picnics, Samara offers hands-on conservation sessions, personalised tours of rewilding projects and immersive experiences such as fly camping.

Established in 1997, Samara is an award-winning Big 5 reserve located on 67,000 acres of born-again wilderness in the Great Karoo near Graaff-Reinet. A passionate conservation undertaking, Samara has pioneered land-use change in the region, painstakingly restoring 11 former livestock farms across 5 vegetation biomes and reintroducing threatened wildlife including cheetah, lion and elephant.

Samara engages in rehabilitating degraded landscapes, managing water catchments and regen-

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“We believe in the positive and lasting impact of ecotourism, when done conscientiously and sustainably,” adds Tompkins. “It is our vision that the recovery of tourism post-COVID19 will usher in a new paradigm of travel founded on responsible, ethical experiences that benefit their local spheres of influence. We are excited to work with The Long Run in pursuit of this goal.”

www.samara.co.za www.thelongrun.org

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TOURISM NEWS

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Singita Sabora Tented Camp - pic Singita responsible traveller 119

TOURISM NEWS The Rediscovered Singita Sabora Tented Camp opening soon Set in a 350,000-acre concession in the Serengeti in northern Tanzania, Singita Sabora Tented Camp has captivated guests for more than a decade with its inimitable location. Reopening at the end of September 2020, the lodge’s extensive redesign is a modern interpretation of luxury tented safaris, while retaining the quintessential elements of a romantic experience under canvas. The new forward-thinking camp features sophisticated details such as handstitched leather finishes, as well as durable canvas and campaign furniture, and it echoes the unmistakable spirit of classic East African adventures combined with intuitive simplicity.

With added comforts such as private meditation decks and secluded outdoor salas with shaded daybeds, the new camp is now set even closer to the ground. Guests can spend languid afternoons reading on their decks, idly watch game passing by, and immerse themselves in Sabora’s unrivalled setting. With not much separating them from the bush, every sight, sound and smell is amplified, maximising the thrill of this tented experience.

Singita’s design partners, Cécile & Boyd and GAPP Architects, collaborated for the creation of the new architecture and décor of the lodge, which echoes the earthy colour palette of the bush. Featuring muted taupe, tan and beige, the elegant aesthetic also includes touches of brown leather and thick beige stitching. Mesh, canvas and weave finishes throughout provide a rich combination of textures and layers of sophisticated comfort.

The exquisite craftsmanship of the customdesigned tents is extended to every chosen piece, while the placement of the camp has been subtly reorganised to make the most of its sweeping surrounds, and each tented suite enjoys breathtaking views of one of the two nearby waterholes.

The nine self-contained suites feature a seamless combination of in- and outdoor living spaces, which include private areas in which to rest, relax and immerse oneself in wellness activities like outdoor yoga and soothing guided rituals and treatments. The tents also offer private fitness areas and lifestyle units such as a beautifully curated pantry and dining area.

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power, the off-the-grid design wholly embraces the One Planet Living sustainability framework adopted by Singita. Sabora’s location at eye level with grazing herds of wildlife rewrites the script on sustainable experiences in the wilderness.

Celebrating the romance of a tented camp and the opportunity for a restorative retreat, Sabora’s thoughtfully tailored luxury is set to reframe the future of luxury safaris on the continent.

Set in the western corridor of the Serengeti, Singita Grumeti gives guests exclusive access to the Serengeti Mara ecosystem – the renowned migratory route of the Great Migration. It’s protected by the dedicated conservation team at the Grumeti Fund, Singita’s conservation partner in the region, who spearheads projects like the Anti-Poaching Canine Unit, black rhino relocations and the Serengeti Girls Run for the empowerment of girls in rural communities.

This partnership applies the best of tourism and conservation to create programmes that benefit the local communities, wildlife and the natural landscape.

In addition to a classic Serengeti safari, Singita Sabora Tented Camp’s proximity to Singita Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda enables guests to experience a circuit with easy direct flights from Singita Grumeti to Kigali – combining the best of Tanzania’s wildlife and wilderness with transformative encounters with Rwanda’s endangered mountain gorillas.

Check website for opening dates and rates.

www.singita.com

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TOURISM NEWS Marataba Conservation Camps opens in the Waterberg Now open, Marataba Conservation Camps is a new, conservation-focused safari experience giving guests the chance to be part of hands-on wildlife management and ecological conservation, and to travel with a purpose. In a post COVID-19 world, the way people travel will be changed forever and this reimagining of the traditional bush experience offers guests the opportunity to be part of the future of conservation.

Founders Camp and Explorers Camp are both located in Marataba Contractual National Park, a privately managed section of the Marakele National Park. To encourage a full tailor-made stay, Founders can be booked on an exclusive-use basis and Explorers on a semi-exclusive basis. Every booking is allocated a private conservation guide and vehicle, allowing for maximum flexibility, and experiences can be chosen on a ‘mix and match’ basis. This gives guests the rare freedom to delve into what they are passionate about and experience a holistic journey through the area.

Founders Camp sits on the Matlabas River and is comprised of four individual suites. The main area and each of the rooms has an expansive deck, offering magnificent views up the river to the iconic mountains. Booked in its entirety on an exclusive-use basis, the goal was to create an elegant family home in the heart of the bush.

The furniture is a fusion of old and new: refurbished, antique wood coffee tables and traditional African bowls sit alongside contemporary light fittings and modern textiles. The colour palette is an earthy mix of charcoal and terracotta, with shades of blue and teal, reminiscent of the river, and flashes of vibrant orange.

The river is home to numerous pods of hippos and, with no crocodiles, animals wade into the water to eat and drink. Sightings straight from Founders Camp include regular elephant crossings, kudus wading in the shallows, rhinos coming to drink and a wide variety of birds.

There is a boat based at Founders Camp for water-based safari cruises on a 2km stretch of accessible river, also available to guests staying at Explorers Camp.

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known for the elephants that frequently stop in for fresh water, just metres from camp.

The canvas tents sit on elevated wooden decks and can be made up either as king beds or twin beds. With plenty of metal details, wooden furniture and natural fabrics, the interiors are functional yet easy-going and organically chic, and encourage guests to kick off their shoes and embrace the lifestyle of Marataba. With two guides and vehicles, Explorers is booked on a semi-exclusive basis for 9 guests or less and an exclusive basis for 10 or more in one booking.

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Meals at both camps are served al-fresco whenever possible, with breakfast enjoyed around the fire at sunrise and dinner served under the stars.

Dining is family-style with generous platters filled with organic vegetables from the on-site kitchen garden the star of the show. Lunches are designed for maximum safari flexibility, and include alfresco feasts in camp, packed lunch boxes for all-day walks and drives, and delicious, on-the-go picnics between conservation activities.

Marataba’s story begins with Nelson Mandela, South Africa’s iconic president. At the dawn of the country’s democracy in 1994, it was clear that Mandela’s government needed to secure the protection of South Africa’s wild places.

Marataba became a reality when 21,000 hectares of land was privately acquired and incorporated as a contractually managed section of the Marakele National Park. This innovative, Public Private Partnership (PPP) model of conservation allows the resources and expertise of both the public and private sectors to be pooled for responsible traveller 123

TOURISM NEWS efficient and sustainable management of the land. In the 25 years since Marataba’s inception, the model has been replicated across the continent.

Towering mountains, millions of years old, define the landscape, creating deep gorges and waterways, which contrast with wide open plains. Guests at Marataba Conservation Camps are encouraged to combine safari activities with conservation experiences, and there are chances to explore the incredible landscape on both day and night game drives and boat trips. Wild walks with a conservation guide are also available, and guests will navigate the epic mountains and dramatic gorges on foot, ending with a swim under a waterfall and a picnic lunch.

The main focus at Marataba Conservation Camps is, however, to get involved in the conservation activities that occur daily. Wildlife monitoring and management is a core function of Marataba’s conservation team and ensure an in-depth look and feel of what modernday conservation is all about, from population control to ecological functions.

Guests may also participate in telemetry tracking walks with cheetah, compilation of individual identikits for elephants and elephant impact assessments, the set up and monitoring of camera traps, transect walks for vegetation mapping and planting, and snare patrols.

For those with a special interest in rhino, notching is an ongoing and important wildlife management intervention, and guests can join for a conservation contribution of R 52 000 per group.

www.marataba.co.za

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TOURISM NEWS Paarl and Wellington Receive Safety Stamp of Approval The World Travel Tourism Council (WTTC) has issued Paarl and Wellington with their ‘Safe travels’ approval. This means that the two destinations adhere to the strict guidelines and protocols set by the global industry representative and travelers can visit the region and its tourism attractions with confidence.

globally recognised stamp of approval will give operators the confidence to promote Paarl and Wellington as travel destinations again. Visitors are now able to enjoy our superb offerings, including fine dining with some of our valley’s best wines or taking a trip to a wine farm for wine tasting and to stock up home cellars.”

Following the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic, which had a devastating effect on the international travel industry, the council and its members, governments, health experts and other industry associations developed specific recovery protocols. The implementation of these protocols will ensure that people feel safe to travel, although safety cannot be 100% guaranteed. The protocols allow the private sector to align with collective standards to ensure the safety of its workforce and travelers as the sector shifts to a new normal and travel restrictions are relaxed.

As a member of the WTTC, Paarl and Wellington can use the stamp worldwide to promote the various attractions in the area as the country slowly opens from lockdown. This symbol will also give travelers the necessary reassurance to make South Africa a preferred travel destination.

“The ‘Safe Travels’ stamp sends the message that Paarl and Wellington are safe and that we have followed all the recommendations issued by the national health ministry and the Tourism Business Council of South Africa to ensure visitors’ safety,” explains Stroebel.

According to Annelize Stroebel, CEO of Paarl and Wellington Wine and Tourism (Drakenstein Local Tourism Association), the ‘Safe Travels’ stamp is vitally important to the recovery of the sector. “South Africa moved to Level 2 lockdown, which now allows for inter-provincial travel. This

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Alderman Conrad Poole, Executive Mayor of Drakenstein Municipality, has welcomed the initiative. “Tourism plays such an important role in the Drakenstein economy and we want to welcome both local and international tourists back to Drakenstein as soon as possible,” he said.

TOURISM NEWS KwaXolo Caves Adventures combines outdoor fun with cultural wonder Dating back some 100 000 years, the KwaXolo Caves, located inland of Margate on the KwaZuluNatal (KZN) South Coast, were once open-rock shelters for indigenous San communities, with the history of these people echoed in the rock paintings evident today. Set atop the precipice of a deep gorge and boasting some of the region’s most magnificent views, these once-inaccessible caves are now a top tourist attraction following the launch of the KwaXolo Caves Adventures earlier this year.

“The area is renowned for its coastal activities but there are so many exciting tourism developments within the hinterland region,” said CEO of Ugu South Coast Tourism (USCT), Phelisa Mangcu. “We believe local tourism opportunities must be inclusive of all communities, and the establishment of the exciting and innovative KwaXolo Caves Adventures is just that. This is a fantastic fusion of cultural, natural and extreme sports’ tourism that gives visitors a unique experience of the KZN South Coast while empowering the surrounding communities.”

The caves are now accessible through the erection of a via ferrata system, which is a climbing route using steel cables and rungs fixed to rocks. Visitors are kitted out in safety gear and securely hooked to the cables, allowing them to walk safely along the precarious mountain path. This system of harnesses and a 300-metre cableway was designed by the same engineers tasked with creating the famous Wild Swing at Oribi Gorge – another popular tourism attraction on the KZN South Coast.

Led by experienced tour guides, visitors are taken along this incredible mountainside, attached by two safety lines on a fixed cable. These are then moved along as the hike extends towards

the KwaXolo Caves, with expansive views of the waterfall and endless gorge providing a captivating backdrop.

Once inside the KwaXolo Caves, visitors are taken on a journey back in time as they view the ancient San rock art that depicts the area’s rich cultural heritage. Similar to rock paintings found in mountainous regions throughout the province, the sites are believed to have had particular natural, cultural and spiritual significance to the San people. The paintings are said to represent journeys of shamans (medicine men) into the spiritual world in an effort to induce rain, heal sicknesses and ease societal tensions.

“The KwaXolo Caves have been distinguished as being of extraordinary significance in terms of the South African Heritage Resources Act, and we believe this particular hiking experience is incredibly unique,” said Operator, Shaun Makhanya. “In addition to the benefits for visiting tourists, the experience offers a number of benefits for the local KwaXolo and Dumezulu communities, including employment opportunities and community-development initiatives. Among these are entrepreneurial and skills’ workshops that will be hosted as soon as regulations allow. The increased tourism activity will also result in infrastructure development and maintenance, to the benefit of all.”

Originally launched in March this year, KwaXolo Caves Adventures was halted during the Covid-19 lockdown, but with new Level 3 regulations, the business is operational for day visitors. This is the ideal picnic spot for those looking to enjoy the fantastic scenery, but visitors are encouraged to bring their own picnics.

www.visitkznsouthcoast.co.za

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15 AMAZING COUNTRIES Countless amazing responsible tourism experiences

If you’re a traveller who’s concerned about the impacts of your travels, then Southern Africa is the destination for you. In the three years that the African Responsible Tourism Awards has been running, a whopping 46 awards have been

handed to tourism organisations from Southern African countries. Some have gone to shine on the global stage, with southern African countries having racked up 11 wins at the World Responsible Tourism Awards since 2015.

ANGOLA

BOTSWANA

DRC

LESOTHO

MADAGASCAR

MALAWI

MAURITIUS

MOZAMBIQUE

NAMIBIA

SEYCHELLES

SOUTH AFRICA

SWAZILAND

TANZANIA

ZAMBIA

ZIMBABWE

The Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern Africa (RETOSA) is a Southern African Development Community (SADC) body responsible for the development of tourism and regional destination marketing across the 15 Southern Africa countries. www.retosa.co.za