Edition 3 - 2016

R E S P O N S I B L E

edition 3 – 2016

be the difference

whales wine & w on d e r f u l w i l d l i f e . . . w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a

Comment Welcome to another edition of Responsible Traveller.

In this edition we go road tripping…

My hubby and I spend time at Mount Camdeboo in the Eastern Cape, in Stellenbosh, Cape Town and the Elgin Valley. Here we get to appreciate history and art, fine wines, fabulous food and epic adventures; wonderful wildlife and conservation initiatives as well as heartwarming stories of community upliftment. We stay in the country... wine farms and historic houses; at city hotels... old, new and sustainable. This is part one of our epic #GreatCapeEScape.

Conservation and wildlife features highly in this edition. We start with the whale season in Gansbaai and spend time at Gondwana’s new Tented Eco Camp with Louise from Green Girls in Africa. Here we find out that even though it’s ‘not for sissies’ those more at ease in luxury soon adapt and get to love the experience. And talking of luxury, we spend time at Kwandwe Private Game Reserve where the wildlife experience is matched by their commitment to their local community and conservation - a win-win for all.

On the whole travel can only be a win-win when all ‘players’ of this game we call tourism are playing on the same field, all participating and each one focused on the part they need to play. As travellers and guests we are in this game too. Albeit on the sidelines, our responsibility is no less important - we get to choose which games we participate in, who we shout for... and how we behave. We need to be mindful of our water and power usage, to switch off when we leave the room and to recycle where possible. To stay, shop, experience and eat local… thereby providing employment and contributing to the local economy. By playing this game mindfully, by having conversations with locals and experiencing the ‘real’ destination, we add value and return home with incredible memories.

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

tessa

Magazine Information edition 3 - 2016 Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published bi-monthly

Cover Image: Humpback whale breaching pic - Marine Dynamics - Hennie Otto ©

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents Regulars: Comment

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Being a Responsible Traveller 06

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Travel Tips from the market place 58

Destinations & Places to Stay: #GreatCapeEscape - part 1

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Mount Camdeboo Private Game Reserve 09

Stellenbosch

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Hotel Verde

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Winchester Mansions

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Elgin Valley

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Kwandwe... a sense of place 38

Conservation Profile: Whale Season - Southern Right’s in the Dyer Island Ecosystem 28 Tented Eco Camp at Gondwana Game Reserve 50

News:

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FTT joins forces with Botswana’s Ecotourism Certification System

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KZN lodge celebrates successful community upliftment

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Amarula Trust helps to build Namibia’s Eco-Tourism skills

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Thailand reaffirms its commitment to Responsible Tourism

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Constance Moofushi Maldives Luxury Eco Resort

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Shamwari Game Reserve introduces K9 Tracking

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A field guide that every child should take into the bush

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www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

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• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

AFRICA’S GREENEST HOTEL...

Experience the ultimate 4 star accommodation & conferencing with our 145 luxury rooms, passionate & friendly staff, free Wi-Fi & business centre, indoor & outdoor gym, running trail and eco pool as well as the convenience of a free airport shuttle and two daily shuttles into Cape Town CBD.

Book now for your luxurious carbon neutral experience.

15 Michigan Street, Airport Industria, Cape Town 7490 ZA | +27 (0) 21 380 5500 | reservations@hotelverde.com | www.hotelverde.com

#GreatCapeEscape 08 responsible traveller

PART ONE...

Mountain Zebra at Mount Camdeboo

words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

T

he thing with a road trip is that there are always surprises... these sometimes include a curve ball or two but there are always some incredibly memorable moments! This is a brief account of what we called our #GreatCapeEscape which saw us traverse the mighty Drakensberg Mountains from KwaZulu-Natal and the Freestate into the Easternand Western Cape. What became evident on our journey was the incredible beauty and diversity of South Africa and the wonderfully abundant stories of conservation, culture and people.

We had a fair distance to travel, so left Durban in the dark... the golden glow of dawn greeted us as we headed up Olivier’s Hoek Pass, the sandstone mountains of the Golden Gate National Park were resplendent in the early morning light and the fields of sunflowers punctuating the landscape smiled on us as we travelled through the Freestate. Life was most certainly smiling on us as my husband managed to talk his way out of what would have been a sizeable fine - be sure to check that your vehicle license is valid (huge oops!!)- and managed to secure a temporary licence for our vehicle (albeit an Eastern Cape one).

This curve ball dealt with, we continued on towards Graaf Reinet and our first stop, the MOUNT CAMDEBOO PRIVATE GAME RESERVE. Being later than expected, we were both surprised and delighted at the concerned phone call we received from Jaunita, enquiring if we were ok, she laughed and commiserated with us about said ‘delay’.

This level of personal service was experienced at every level. From the high tea on our late arrival, wonderful game drives (first time sightings of aardwolf and bat-eared fox) and intimate dining experiences, to the infinite patience of Lesley our ranger when being asked to stop a zillion times for that perfect photo opportunity. Lesley’s passion for this land is inspiring, having grown up in the area he has an incredible knowledge of both fauna and flora as well its fascinating history. responsible traveller 09

We stayed in the historic Camdeboo Manor, the original Groenkloof house dating back to the 1800s, and one of three restored homesteads on Mount Camdeboo, all tucked into one of the hidden valleys in the Sneeuberg Mountains, a range that played a part in the Second Boer War. Our second morning game drive saw us emerge out of the misty valley through the Groenkloof Gorge, following a similar path to that of a British column under the command of Colonel Harry Scobell. They had received word that a small Boer commando under the command of Commandant Lotter were taking refuge in a sheep kraal.

This was where we stopped for our morning coffee and where Lesley told the account of the Battle of Groenkloof, a quick, yet bloody battle that resulted in the death of 10 British troopers, 13 commandos and the capture of Lotter and his remaining men.

The bullet holes are still visible in the corrugated roof of the kraal, as are metal buckles and buttons - I hold them reverently. We enter the enclosed memorial site for the British soldiers that perished, and I sadly consider the futility of war.

‘We enter the enclosed memorial site for the British soldiers that perished and I sadly consider the futility of war...’ The 14,000 hectares of Mount Camdeboo were once farmland, overgrazed and in need of restoration. Conservation and sustainable utilisation is key, and an integrated ecological management plan ensures the restoration of the Karoo fauna and flora, such as the endangered Cape Mountain zebra, cheetah and blue crane.

Vegetation ranges from the dwarf shrubland of the Nama Karoo, dense bushveld and forested ravines, hillsides dotted with of aloes and spekboom to the expansive grasslands of the mountain plains.

Our experiences at Mount Camdeboo were as diverse as the landscape and vegetation, as special as the sightings of aardwolf and bat-eared fox, and as memorable as the silhouette of an Oryx against the setting sun.

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The wonders of our stay at Mount Camdeboo

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Rozendal... vinagrier extraordinaire

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Wine tasting at Ken Forrester Winery

Mandela Memorial Square in Stellenbosch

An interesting aside from wine, is a visit to ROZENDAL- vinaigrier extraordinaire, and family farm of the Ammann family. These botanical vinegars start out as an organic ‘good, wellbalanced’ Bordeaux blend, after a long slow process, the vinegar is then infused with individual herbs in small oak barrels. The result is a unique Balsamic-style vinegar with wonderful flavours such as fynbos, green tea, lavender and hibiscus.

Our vinegar tasting with Alexander Ammann revealed the subtle nuances of these wonderful flavours, how they enhance even the simplest of cuisine and have countless medicinal properties, including reducing the body’s pH - a good thing too as we were about to go wine tasting, and wine is best experienced under ‘positive circumstances’ with a balanced pH! Not only does Stellenbosch have the oldest wine route in South Africa, it has a number of wine farms that are committed to sustainable wine production.

Our first stop was the KEN FORRESTER VINEYARDS, famous for its Chenin Blanc (Ken Forrester is often referred to as the ‘King of Chenin’) and being committed to doing wine the ‘old fashioned’ way. They use no herbicides or pesticides and do everything by hand, from tilling the ground to pruning and harvesting- a very labour intensive way of farming, but one that provides additional employment thereby improving the quality of life of their community.

The long open road continued and wide arid spaces of the Karoo finally gave way to rugged mountains, the Hex River Valley, Du Toitskloof Pass and the Huguenot Tunnel- finally revealing the fertile valleys of the winelands surrounding Wellington, Paarl, Franschhoek and finally our destination, Stellenbosch.

STELLENBOSCH is an historic town, founded in 1679 by Simon van der Stel, Govenor of the Cape Colony; it’s a student town, a town with a vibey cafe culture and one that is central to the Stellenbosch Wine Route. Our visit was not just about wine, although it did play rather an important part- as wine does in this region.

We took time to stroll through the oak-lined avenues bordered by water furrows, we visited the ‘Moederkerk’ and the Village Museum, strolled across Die Braak (village green), had a coffee at Schoon’s De Companje and popped into Oom Samie Se Winkel for some old-style trading store shopping. Clearly we needed more time, but the wine farms of the region beckoned.

Enjoying the relaxed environment of the outside tasting room, we decided on tasting the Chenins, starting with the Petit, an elegantly crafted everyday drinking wine. I loved the golden hue and aromas of the full bodied Old Vine Reserve, the soft flavours of honeycomb and caramel had me wanting more, but it was the iconic (and most expensive) FMC that seduced me, its rich layers of dried apricot, vanilla and honey tantalising and the floral bouquet quite intoxicating.

Just down the road is restaurant 96 WINERY ROAD... why 96 you would ask? It’s the founding year of the Forrester family restaurant and to quote their website, ‘the beginning of good fortune’. It certainly was good fortune to be able to experience their hearty country-style cuisine and more fabulous Ken Forrester wine.

This time we opted for the Renegade, a classic Rhone style blend that complemented our choice of duck and cherry pie and the ‘Hollandse’ pepper fillet perfectly. My duck and cherry pie was as delicious as I expected, the richness of the responsible traveller 13

duck meat combining perfectly with the sweet tartness of the cherries, the port sauce and the perfectly cooked puff pastry, and my hubby’s fillet perfectly aged and cooked to perfection. 96 Winery is a popular choice with both locals and visitors and its easy to understand why with its comfortable and unpretentious decor, delicious food... and the extensive wine list.

SPIER deserves more than just a one-night stand, but even with just one night she really pulled out all the stops. Her flirtatious behaviour started at check-in where we were welcomed with a glass of crisp stylish Spier Sauvignon Blanc, the beautifully appointed and spacious room with its ‘green’ credentials made the proposition that much sweeter, and the fabulous food paired with award winning wines sealed the deal.

Spier is one of the oldest wine farms in Stellenbosch, with a history dating back to 1692.

A walk around the property reveals a number of old Cape Dutch style buildings, expansive lawns and beautiful old trees- there are 21 gables to look out for, a restored slave bell and a number of intriguing sculptures to be found.

But it’s Spier’s commitment to responsible tourism that sets it apart. With many varied environmental and social initiatives and the hotel’s Fair Trade Tourism certification guests can

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be assured that they are doing things right for both the environment and local communities.

Spier’s commitment to supporting local artists is evident by the wonderful art that adorns the walls in many of their buildings as well as their Creative Block project that helps support artists by providing an outlet for their work- collectors can choose any number of blocks and hang them together building an artwork that is both unique and original and ‘greater than the sum of its parts’.

Our dining experience introduced us to Spier Hotel’s ethos of sourcing only the freshest local produce available... our menu included delicious cold smoked rainbow trout from Franschhoek, wonderfully tasty free range chicken and superbly tender Farmer Angus 28 day matured rib-eye steak from the Spier farm- each one a culinary work of art. Our starter was paired with 21 Gables Sauvignon Blanc, the chicken with Creative Block 2, and the steak with both Creative Block 3 and 5, as our waiter Andile suggested 3 and sommelier Obrey the 5! Our dessert, a pecan nut praline chocolate tart was paired with the 21 Gables Pinotage, but I guess it ‘in for a penny, in for a pound’, as Obrey also introduced us to the dessert wine Dancing In Other Words, a Noble Late Harvest - the bottle as beautiful as the smooth honey coloured nectar it dispensed.

‘A walk around Spier reveals a number of old Cape Dutch style buildings, expansive lawns and beautiful old trees - there are 21 gables to look out for...’ responsible traveller 15

Wine and cupcake pairing at Delheim winery

We weren’t done with the Stellenbosch Wine Route just yet, as we had a date high on the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain. DELHEIM WINERY is where the Sperling family has been making beautiful wines for decades, its where history and technology meet, as is evident by the concrete tanks in the cellar completed in 1944

by Italian prisoners-of-war and the sophisticated water recycling system that sees 250 cubic metres of water recycled every day. We were guided through the production cellar with its concrete tanks and large oak barrels and the old vat cellar with its... intriquitely carved old vats and an original bottle of the legendary Spatzendreck.

As luck would have it Victor, son of ‘Papa Spatz’ Sperling, joined us at our wine and cupcake pairing- adding a whole new dimension to our wine tastings thus far. I loved how the exotic flavour of the pomegranate and vanilla cupcake complemented the delicate fruitiness of the Pinotage Rose, and how the tones of lemon and honey of the Chenin Blanc Wild Ferment worked with the rooibos... the Pinotage with the farm grown pumpkin and the Gewurztraminer with the traditional Makataan, a wild grown local melon.

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As we had time on our hands, Victor offered to take us up the Simonsberg Mountain. From here there were expansive views over the Stellenbosch valley and much of the Greater Simonsberg Conservancy, established in 2004 to protect and conserve the area through sustainable practicesDelheim was one of the five founding members.

Sadly it was not only the views we got to see, but also the extensive damage caused by the fire that raged through the valley for five days earlier this year, emphasising the need for sustainability and care of the land.

Talking of sustainability, the next stop on our roadtrip was the fabulous and fun HOTEL VERDE located near Cape Town International Airport... and no, we didn’t have a plane to catch, I just wanted to introduce my hubby to what is considered ‘Africa’s Greenest Hotel’. This award winning hotel is sustainable to its core (literally) with an energy-saving heating and cooling system that is coupled to ground heat source pumps, regenerative drive elevators, three wind turbines, 220 photovoltaic (PV) panels as well as a wealth of other cool ‘green’ initiatives to inspire and involve guests.

‘This award winning hotel is sustainable to its core (literally) with an energy-saving heating and cooling system that is coupled to ground heat source pumps, regenerative drive elevators, three wind turbines and much more...’ responsible traveller 17

Another Cape Town hotel that’s moving towards being sustainable is the Cape Dutch styled WINCHESTER MANSIONS. This iconic sea front hotel is not a new build, so the challenges of embracing the new technologies of sustainability were always going to be a challenge. The recent addition of a solar PV system on the hotel roof has already seen a reduction in carbon emissions and a decrease in reliance on the national gridit’s also really cool being able to see the data (kWh generated and consumed) on screen in the reception area! In addition to this the hotel has a number of environmental and community initiatives that it is committed to.

The hotel’s location on the Sea Point Promenade make it super convenient for the business traveller as the city centre and Cape Town International Convention Centre are a short drive away (which is a huge benefit considering the traffic congestion during peak periods) as is the V&A Waterfront, the Cape Town Stadium and other popular beaches, restaurants and clubs.

We decided to enjoy more of the Winchester’s hospitality and chose to dine at Harvey’s... nothing better than sundowners on the terrace watching the sun slowly disappear into the Atlantic Ocean, followed by deep fried camembert, a perfectly seared rib-eye steak and a good coffee. If you time it right, you could even be there for their once-a-month 3G Evening, a celebration of grapes, gourmet and gallery (art) or their ever popular Jazz Brunch- so popular that booking is advised way in advance!

‘The recent addition of a solar PV system on the hotel roof has already seen a reduction in carbon emissions and a decrease in the reliance on the national grid...’

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‘It is a place where life becomes art and art mirrors life, a place where sculptural forms become functional and where every surface is a potential canvas and every material a possible medium...’

The ELGIN VALLEY, located in the picturesque Overberg region, is an easy drive from the city centre via Sir Lowry’s Pass, making it ideal for a day trip or weekend away. We spent the weekend at the wonderful WILDEKRANS COUNTRY HOUSE, a historic homestead situated in the village of Houw Hoek that dates back to 1811. Our room, furnished with antiques and contemporary South African art, overlooked the rambling garden and had expansive views of the Groenland Mountain.

Heading out for an early morning hike along a short section of the Green Mountain Trail we had our first opportunity to spot some the intriguing art that lives comfortably in the garden.

It is a place where life becomes art and art mirrors life, a place where sculptural forms become functional and where every surface is a potential canvas and every material a possible medium... even the mountains are an art-form as the fynbos changes with the seasons as different species come in to flower.

Our hike took us along a meandering trail up the mountain, our young local guide happy to impart his knowledge of the fauna and flora of the region- we saw white proteas, ericas, Cape sugarbirds and even leopard spoor! This had most certainly whet our appetite not just for an opportunity to do the four day trail, but also for the hearty breakfast that was awaiting us on our return. responsible traveller 21

Dining at The Pool Room

Almenkerk tasting venue

A toast to #elginmagic at Almenkerk

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Dessert at The Pool Room

Any escape to the countryside deserves to be accompanied by fabulously fine food- farm-totable of course, expertly crafted wines and artisanal ciders... and the Elgin Valley most definitely obliges.

We dined at THE POOL ROOM on the Oak Valley Estate where we were hosted by Chef Gordon Manuel and his lovely wife Emma. It was evening and the lights reflected in the inky darkness of the pool, a bespoke oak leaf chandelier graced the ceiling above us and the embers in the wood fired oven were glowing. We enjoyed beautiful country inspired cuisine, the ingredients- free range grassfed beef, acorn-fed pork as well as much of the greenery (salads, vegetables & herbs), sourced from the farm, the presentation an art-form and the wine, Oak Valley.

Slow food is another trend gaining momentum, and the HICKORY SHACK does slow, and artisanal, really well. Y’all be forgiven for thinking you’d stumbled upon a little Texan smokehouse, complete with old shed, apple red Chevy and the obligatory set of horns! Out of the BBQ smoke pit, using mostly apple wood in the smoking process, come smoked ribs, brisket, pulled pork and chicken- all lightly smoked and wonderfully tender, and served with slaw, mash, fries or melt-in-the-mouth tender homemade beans.

Add to that a locally brewed cider on the side, and nougat or salted caramel ice-cream and you could stay forever.

‘Marion’s bubbly’ - MCC at Elgin Ridge

In keeping with slow... the vineyards of the Elgin Valley, with it’s higher altitude and cooler climate, allows for a slower ripening harvest which results in wines with a broad spectrum of flavours, character, complexity and elegance. We sipped a gently wooded Chardonnay whilst overlooking the lush vineyards and orchards of the ALMENKERK wine estate, we toasted a family birthday with the tropical tones of a Sauvignon Blanc and savoured the warm spicy notes of the Syrah while listening to the story of how Joris and Natalie van Almenkerk bought an... apple farm!

The story of how Brian and Marion Smith, of ELGIN RIDGE, chose to follow their dream is just as interesting. Having sold their successful IT business in London they were looking for a wine farm, the search led them to a run down apple farm in the Elgin Valley. What they loved was the fact the land had been fallow for many years and thereby ideal for their dream of producing certified organic wine. Fast forward nine years and we’re sitting in a modern tasting room sipping bubbly with Brian- the story goes that Marion said ‘what’s the point of having a wine farm if a girl cannot have her own bubbly?’ So taking up the challenge, Brian responsible traveller 23

set about creating the wonderfully fruity, golden apricot coloured MCC 2011... fondly referred to as ‘Marion’s bubbly’. In addition to the beautiful bubbly, we taste the 282 Sauvignon Blanc (that’s the height above sea level) and the rich garnet coloured Pinot Noir (the only certified organic Pinot Noir in South Africa).

Vineyards and orchards abound in this valley and we couldn’t leave without visiting a local apple farm, but not just any apple farm- this one produces beautifully crisp export quality apples and wonderfully ‘real’ craft cider. We were at WINDERMERE FARM and Tamsin and Walter Mullins were showing us the ropes of both apple farming and cider crafting. We walked beneath apple trees laden with ‘pink ladies’, watched as ‘green grannies’ were picked and sorted and even rode along for the ride as they made their way to the shed. But the highlight was sitting in the living room sipping chilled rooibos wooded cider out of thin stemmed wine glasses- a sophisticated experience, even with young Charlotte clambering around the table and their beloved canines happily snoozing nearby.

Another popular activity in the valley is the CAPE CANOPY TOUR - an adrenalin adventure through the breath taking fynbos and rugged landscapes of the Hottentots Holland mountains.

I have to say I was somewhat nervous, it wasn’t my first Canopy Tour experience, but was the first without the comfort of a canopy of trees! We were a diverse group (and pretty representative of the demographics of South Africa), some confident and others quietly contemplative... but each rejoicing in the others triumphs. Such is the nature of this experience- adrenalin junkies love it, photographers are inspired, engineers enthralled and conservationists delight in the pristine surroundings and community upliftment.

It seemed a lifetime since we had left KZN, yet we were only halfway through our journey... and what an incredible journey it had been- from community, conservation,history and adventure to hotels and hospitality... wine, food and fabulous coffee. •

To catch the rest of our epic Adventure be sure to sign up for updates... www.responsibletraveller.co.za Huge thanks to all who wined, dined & hosted us... it certainly was an epic #GreatCapeEscape!!

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Deliciously fragrant Windermere Cider

An adrenalin rush at Cape Canopy Tour

PLACES TO STAY: www.mountcamdeboo.com www.spier.co.za www.hotelverde.com www.winchester.co.za www.wildekrans.co.za WINE & DINE: www.rozendal.co.za www.kenforresterwines.com www.96wineryroad.co.za www.spier.co.za www.delheim.com

www.oakvalleywines.com www.almenkerk.co.za www.elginridge.com www.windermerecider.co.za ACTIVITIES: www.capecanopytour.co.za MORE INFO: www.stellenbosch.travel www.wineroute.co.za www.elginvalley.co.za responsible traveller 25

What’s news...

FTT joins forces with Botswana’s Ecotourism Certification System Fair Trade Tourism’s expanding footprint in southern Africa has been given a boost with the signing of a ground-breaking mutual recognition agreement (MRA) with Botswana Tourism Organisation’s Ecotourism Certification System.

Under the terms of the MRA, Fair Trade Tourism’s approved travel trade partners and tour operators can now incorporate the BTO’s Ecotourism certified businesses in their listings regarding products that can be included in Fair Trade Holidays - holiday packages that represent global best practice in responsible tourism.

The BTO Ecotourism certified products includes but is not limited to some of the world’s leading safari lodges and globally lauded African safari operators including Wilderness Safaris, &Beyond and Great Plains Conservation.

Designed to encourage and support tourism businesses in Botswana which demonstrate responsible and sustainable environmental, social and cultural ethics, the Botswana Ecotourism Certification System embodies a stringent set of

performance standards founded on Botswana’s National Ecotourism Strategy of 2002.

The five pillars the system is built on are: minimising negative social, cultural and environmental impacts; maximising the involvement in and equitable distribution of economic benefits to host communities; maximising revenues for re-investment in conservation; educating both visitors and local people as to the importance of conserving natural and cultural resources and delivering a quality experience for tourists.

The system’s development was guided by the Botswana Tourism Policy (1990) and the Botswana Tourism Master Plan (2000) - which call for tourism in Botswana to be both ecologically and economically sustainable - and involved close cooperation with Botswana’s thriving tourism industry.

The Ecotourism level of certification is the highest of the system’s three tiers and reflects the products’ commitment to and involvement with local communities in developing tourism, conserving nature and managing the environment.

CURRENTLY THE AVAILABLE PRODUCTS ARE: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

&Beyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge; &Beyond Xaranna Okavango Delta Camp; &Beyond Xudum Okavango Delta Lodge; Abu Camp Banoka Bush Camp (Wilderness Safaris) Chobe Game Lodge (Desert & Delta Safaris); DumaTau Camp (Wilderness Safaris); Jacana Camp (Wilderness Safaris); Jao Camp (Wilderness Safaris); Kalahari Plains Camp (Wilderness Safaris) Kings Pool Camp (Wilderness Safaris) Kwetsani Camp (Wilderness Safaris); Leroo-La-Tau Lodge (Desert & Delta Safaris) Little Vumbura Camp (Wilderness Safaris); Machaba Camp Meno-A-Kwena Tented Camp Mombo Camp (Wilderness Safaris); Savuti Bush Camp (Wilderness Safaris); Seba Camp (Wilderness Safaris); Selinda Camp (Great Plains Conservation) Selinda Explorers Camp (Great Plains Conservation) Xigera Camp (Wilderness Safaris); Zarafa Camp (Great Plains Conservation) andBeyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge

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What’s news...

Fair Trade Tourism is a leading Southern African non-profit organisation promoting responsible tourism development. It grows awareness about responsible tourism to travellers, assists tourism businesses to operate more sustainably and facilitates a globally recognised certification programme. In 2011 its certification standard became the first in Africa to be recognised by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council.

The organisation’s steady expansion into Africa through direct product certification and partnerships is positioning it at the forefront of the sub-continent’s sustainable, responsible tourism efforts, showing both travel trade partners and independent travellers in key source markets that it is now possible to travel the “Fair Trade way” through direct product certification in Madagascar, Mozambique and South Africa, as well as through mutual recognition partnerships in Seychelles, Tanzania, Namibia and now Botswana.

“Fair Trade Tourism is delighted to be formally associated with the Botswana Tourism Organisation and its robust Ecotourism Certification System through this MRA,” says the

Zarafa Dhow Suites - Great Plains Conservation

organisation’s managing director, Nivashnee Naidoo. “The products certified by the system are recognised the world over for their commitment to people and planet and for their work helping to conserve Botswana’s incredible natural and cultural heritage. So it is exciting that these products can now be featured in Fair Trade Holiday packages,” she adds.

“As pioneers in sustainable and authentic ecotourism, we are extremely proud to have worked closely with BTO over the years to develop these high ecotourism standards, and look forward to the further promotion of responsible tourism that this new MRA with Fair Trade Tourism will encourage”, says Wilderness Safaris Chief Marketing Officer, Chris Roche.

“Both BTO and Fair Trade Tourism’s efforts mirror our ongoing commitment to our 4Cs sustainability ethos of commerce, conservation, community and culture, and we are fully supportive of all efforts that promote and pioneer best practice in our industry”. •

www.fairtrade.travel

Jao Camp - Wilderness Safaris responsible traveller 27

CONSERVATION PROFILE

WHALE SEASON Southern Right’s in the Dyer Island Ecosystem 28 responsible traveller

Image - Sandra Hoerbst Š

CONSERVATION PROFILE

D

Southern right whales frolicking in the bay

yer Island Cruises is gearing up for the Southern right whale season when these gentle giants visit the protected bays of Walker Bay and Gansbaai to mate and calve. The season generally begins mid-June and lasts until mid-December with a peak in September to November, a time when the young calves tend to be more active... words & pics - Dyer Island Cruises / Dyer Island Conservation Trust responsible traveller 29

CONSERVATION PROFILE Southern right whales are large black whales that can reach between 14-16m in length and can weigh between 40-70 tonnes. One of the most unusual features of the Southern right whales is the scattering of “callosities” on their head. These callosities are simply rough patches of skin on which thousands of cyamids (a type of crustacean) and a few barnacles live.

Each whale has a unique pattern of these callosities on their head, just like our fingerprints, allowing us to identify individuals by examining photos. Aerial photos of mother and calf pairs are taken every year by the Mammal Research Institute (University of Pretoria) building a database.

This database has shown that the population in South Africa is doing very well, increasing at its biological maximum of approx. 7% per annum.

Global numbers are now estimated to be 15 000 individuals, approximately 5000 of which utilise the southern African coastline. This is still only 10% of what the population was estimated to have been prior to whaling. As they were once the ‘right’ whales to catch, the Southern right whale population plunged significantly starting in the late 18th to 20th century. Thankfully, they became internationally protected in 1935.

Southern right whales are found between 18ºS to 64ºS, migrating between feeding grounds in the colder Antarctic waters where they spend the austral summers and warmer breeding grounds closer to the equator in austral winter months.

Important calving and mating grounds are close to shore off the coasts of Australia, South Africa, South America and some oceanic islands.

When born, Southern right whale calves average between 4-6m in length, and 1 ton in weight.

Approximately 4% of Southern Right Whales are born mostly white in colour, with numerous black spots, so they are not albinos; these animals darken with age and are called grey morphs/brindles. When Southern Right Whales are sighted, either at sea or from the coast, they can be recognised by their V-shaped blow and lack of dorsal fin.

The main food source for Southern Right Whales in South Africa, off our west coast, are minute planktonic animals called copepods. Although each copepod is very small in size, they tend to aggregate in dense groups in areas of upwelling during summertime. Further south in the Southern Ocean, mass feeding opportunities are available for the whales, but here they feed on larger zooplankton, called Euphasiids.

Feeding behaviour is rarely observed while in 30 responsible traveller

‘Each whale has a unique pattern of these collosities on their head, just like our fingerprints, allowing us to identify individuals by examining photos...’

Image - Sandra Hoerbst ©

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Distinctive V shaped blow of the Southern right whale responsible traveller 31

Image - Kelly Baker ©

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Image - Sandra Hoerbst ©

A Southern right whale approaches Dream Catcher

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CONSERVATION PROFILE their mating grounds (with the exception of the nursing calves). They do not have teeth, but instead have baleen plates hanging down from their upper jaw. Southern right whales can have more than 200 of these baleen plates (in theory similar to tightly-packed vertical blinds), which range in length up to over 2m. These baleen plates have a fringe of hair running down their sides. The whale swims back and forth through the swarms of plankton with its mouth slightly open, creating a counter current that sucks the water through the hairy baleen plates, which act like a sieve, retaining food in their mouth.

As much as the Southern right whales are a marvel to see and attract thousands of tourists every year, Dyer Island Cruises enjoys year round sightings of other whale species too. In June and July the Humpback whale is often seen as it migrates to the warmer waters off Mozambique coastline. These whales provide incredible breaching displays.

The Bryde’s whale is sighted in the beginning of the year. They are often just past the island.

It is likely they are in the area all year round but during Southern right whale season the boat spends time with these whales and is not actively seeking out Bryde’s. Since the start of the business, Dyer Island Cruises has collected data which has built up a good understanding of what species can be found in the bay and when.

Whale watching from the Dream Catcher

‘Since its inception, Dyer Island Cruises has collected data which has built up a good understanding of what species can be found in the bay and when...’

Dyer Island Cruises also visits the shark cage diving vessels so guests should hopefully see a great white shark. Geyser Rock is also a favourite destination for tourists who are entertained by the almost 60 000 Cape fur seals that inhabit this rock attracting the white sharks who feed on them during the winter months. Across from Geyser is the famous Dyer Island, an Important Bird Area and home to the endangered African Penguin.

There are three different species of dolphins, which are regular visitors in our waters. The Indo-Pacific Bottlenose dolphin is the archetypal dolphin. They are the most commonly seen dolphin on television and in aquaria. They are dark grey above and their bellies tend to be white, with dark spots appearing when they reach sexual maturity. The dorsal fin is large and curved. They can measure up to 2.5m in length.

They are usually found in coastal waters and are rarely found in waters deeper than 30m.

Bottlenose dolphins are therefore commonly in contact with human activities. This makes them particularly vulnerable to the alteration or loss of their habitat. responsible traveller 33

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Image - Sandra Hoerbst ©

‘Fair Trade Tourism certified Dyer Island Cruises believes that YOUR CHOICE MAKES A DIFFERENCE and contributes to research, conservation and education through the Dyer Island Conservation Trust...’

Indian Ocean Humpback Dolphin

Long-beaked Common dolphins occur inshore in large groups. These animals are grey with a pale belly and an hourglass-shaped marking on their sides. They are often in the company of flocks of diving gannets and Bryde’s whales. They are most well-known as the dolphins associated with the annual sardine run along South Africa’s east coast. Common dolphins can reach a length of just over 2.5m, are very vocal, whistling loudly as they bow-ride, an activity they find irresistible!

Indian Ocean Humpback dolphins are classified as vulnerable and might at first glance be confused with the bottlenose dolphin.

Humpback dolphins have a long, slender rostrum (beak), and their body is lighter in colour than that of the bottlenose dolphin. Humpback dolphins have a small, hooked dorsal fin that sits on top of a fleshy hump, hence their name. They have just one blowhole (nostril) and can measure up to almost 2.8m long. They are usually found along the coast where they inhabit the shallows or inshore waters, and sometimes even inside estuaries. They are rarely found in waters deeper than 20m, placing them in frequent contact with human activities. The Indian Ocean humpback dolphin is considered as the most endangered 34 responsible traveller

cetacean species of South Africa with urgent research required for better understanding of the status and treats to that species. Dyer Island Cruises biologist, Sandra Hoerbst, is studying this species.

The aim of this project is to create an extensive photo-identification catalogue of the Indian Ocean humpback dolphins in the area of Kleinbaai.

As well as, to create an assessment of habitat use, residency, movement and dispersal patterns.

Another intention is to produce a preliminary estimate of abundance using mark-recapture methods. This data will be the baseline with the purpose of engaging in long term monitoring of the Indian Ocean humpback dolphin in this area and South Africa. The research conducted in the Kleinbaai area contributes to a large scale project, ‘the SouSA project’ that will assess the population status of the Indian Ocean Humpback dolphin along the South African coast. •

MORE INFORMATION AND DAILY BLOG OF SIGHTINGS: www.whalewatchsa.com www.dict.org.za bookings@whalewatchsa.com Ph: +27 82 801 8014

Image - Sandra Hoerbst ©

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Seal colony on Geyser Rock

Image - Sandra Hoerbst ©

African Penguins, an endangered species, off to feed

Image - Kelly Baker ©

Common dolphin

responsible traveller 35

What’s news...

KZN lodge celebrates successful community upliftment Isibindi Africa recently celebrated the one year anniversary of its newest establishment, Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge in the Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park. The four-star lodge based in KwaZulu-Natal opened its doors on 1 March 2015 as part of a vision to uplift and empower the surrounding Mpembeni community.

Images - Isibindi Africa - Guy Upfold / Roger de la Harpe ©

In just one year, the lodge has been successful in its Mpembeni initiative – a project that was put in place in order to meet the development needs of the community. As a joint venture between the Mpembeni Community Trust,

Left to right - Lungi, Nomvelo and Promise

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National Empowerment Fund, Frenken Associates and Isibindi Africa, the Mpembeni initiative was designed to involve the neighbouring community as part-shareholders of Rhino Ridge, in order to improve the community’s socio-economic situation. In line with this, the lodge has also provided much needed job opportunities – from creating temporary jobs during the building of the lodge, to offering permanent positions for ongoing operations. To date, the lodge employs 64 staff, 97% of which are employed from previously disadvantaged communities. This is an increase of 37% from when the lodge first opened.

What’s news...

Receptionist, Nomvelo, is just one example of how the lodge’s socio-economic efforts have benefitted members of the community. Nomvelo comments, “For me, working at Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge has been great. I enjoy meeting new people and working alongside the friendly staff. Since the lodge opened in March last year, I have been promoted twice and now work at front of house as a receptionist. Rhino Ridge has changed my life!”

Rhino Ridge puts great emphasis on the professional growth of its staff members by equipping them with a skills set that they can carry with them throughout their careers.

Zama, who started her journey at Rhino Ridge

as a gardener back in February 2015, has grown in leaps and bounds within a year, and now takes on the role as a housekeeper at the lodge.

Comments Zama, “I came to Rhino Ridge last year as a gardener. Since then, I have learnt many other skills and have been promoted to housekeeper – and not just any housekeeper because I strive to give our guests the best service. Rhino Ridge has the winning formula when it comes to making superstars out of their employees.”

Spa therapists, Promise and Lungi, have also thrived in their time at the Rhino Ridge. As a result of their hard work, paired with the skills training that is offered by the lodge, they have both been awarded their certificates to practice professionally. This in turn will prove beneficial in furthering their careers.

Aside from its employee-focus, the lodge is also involved in various development projects which contribute to the welfare, income and conservation spirit of the community. Rhino Ridge donates to the Little Bird Feeding Fund in its efforts to raise the R2 500 that is needed every week to feed 26 children at the nearby Primary School in Mpembeni.

The lodge also partners with the High School, offering mentorship in skills development, and furthermore assists the orphans of Mpembeni by providing evening feeding schemes for childheaded families in the area.

Rhino Ridge also now offers Big 5 walks within the Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park. Nunu Jobe, an experienced trails guide with many years of experience doing Wilderness Trails in the Park, is now based at Rhino Ridge. These walks provide an opportunity to experience the bush at an intimate level and are bound to create a new awareness and appreciation of the Wilderness.

Going forward, Rhino Ridge aims to continue in its efforts in providing skills training, job opportunities and education on wildlife conservation, as well as solidifying itself as a popular eco-tourism venue that aims to boost the economy for Mpembeni. Comments Brett Gehren, Owner of Isibindi Africa, “What started out as a vision to make a difference in the local community has resulted in a credible, sustainable, eco-friendly lodge that we can all be proud to be a part of. We look forward to carrying out the legacy of Isibindi Africa in all aspects of the lodge and endeavour to strive towards new heights, as a leader in community upliftment projects.” •

www.isibindi.co.za responsible traveller 37

K ...wa sense a ofnplaced w e

Red Hartebeest

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Image - Kwandwe Private Game Reserve Š

Words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

W

e could see for miles. Rolling hills, vegetated and green... just how it used to be. This was the Kwandwe I had heard so much about, its conservation and community success stories, and its history and culture. From the early San inhabitants, whose rock art reveals the once abundant wildlife, to the Frontier Wars (1779-1878) between the English settlers, Dutch farmers and resident Xhosa nation. To the many years of farming (first ostrich for their exotic feathers, and then cattle), hunting and poaching which saw amongst other, the decimation of the local cheetah population. responsible traveller 39

Sunrise on a misty morning game drive

‘When Kwandwe first started, the vision was to not only develop and restore a piece of land back to its former glory but to establish a means of employment and social development ...’ 40 responsible traveller

We were driving through the reserve with Graeme Mann, GM of Kwandwe Private Game Reserve, on our way to the Mgcamabele Community Centre. In many ways the Centre is at the centre of everything that Kwandwe is about, so it was fitting to be spending some time there.

When Kwandwe first started, the vision was to not only develop and restore a piece of land back to its former glory but to establish a means of employment and social development for those communities living in this poverty stricken region in the Eastern Cape.

The initiation of Kwandwe’s social development arm, the Ubunye Foundation (previously the Angus Gillis Foundation), in 2002 saw energy and resources being focused on these local communities. What sets the Ubunye Foundation apart from so many other social development operations is that it focuses on facilitating an asset-based approach to development where the key is community participation in preference to purely a needs based approach - ‘it’s all about harnessing people’s potential rather that focusing on what they lack’. responsible traveller 41

Our visit to the Mgamabele Community Centre

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We were visiting the Mgcamabele Community pre-school and day care centre that was established on the reserve for staff children Graeme’s son is one of the children that delight in the daily programme of creativity, learning, play time and rest. The kids also receive a snack and lunch to keep them going through their busy day.

We arrived during nap time, and were greeted with the synchronised sounds of blissful sleep instead of the usual welcome with song and dance. This gave us time to check out the computer training centre that is used for one of the adult based education programmes, here we learnt about the savings programme and how this provides life skills and financial education as well as the foundation for income generating projects and entrepreneurial endeavours.

‘We arrive during nap time, and are greeted with the synchronised sounds of blissful sleep instead of the usual welcome with song and dance...’ Examples of these projects include weaving, beading, soap making, bee-keeping, vegetable and herb gardens as well as spaza shops - many operated by women, who often bear the brunt of economic hardship and family issues. Some of these gardens supply fresh produce to the kitchens of the lodges within Kwandwe. Another successful project is the Siyakhula doll-making cooperative, which incorporates traditional handcrafts such as beading, braiding and sewing.

These dolls are available for guests to purchase at the Kwandwe safari shop.

We pause a while to watch an old bull elephant as he feeds on low growing scrub, the tell tale weeping from the temporal glands evidence that he is coming into musth. He is pretty chilled, but we choose to leave him in peace. Graeme continues to tell us what a mammoth task it was to reclaim the 22,000 hectares of farmland that responsible traveller 43

stretched out on either side of the Great Fish River, and then remove over 3,000 km of fencing, telephone lines and water troughs.

“Thankfully the vegetation was in good condition and ready for the re-introduction of game” says Graeme, “and now this land is once more abundant with thousands of animals, including lion, black and white rhino, buffalo, elephant and cheetah in their natural environment”. I had to agree, this most certainly was a conservation victory.

Back at Ecca Lodge, we took some time to relax in our spacious suite, its interiors reflecting the natural hues of the bush, its furnishings clean and contemporary with a somewhat funky feel.

Enjoying the privacy of the (relatively) warm plunge pool and outdoor shower had me feeling a tad risqué... the only audience a Southern boubou, keeping a discreet distance.

On our first couple of game drives we had Ryan our ranger to ourselves, and as luck would have it, he was a birding fundie, something we wannabe birders were delighted about. We spotted the ghostly form of a Southern pale chanting goshawk in the early light of dawn, watched as a blackwinged stilt foraged in muddy shallows and delighted at the unexpected sight of a greater flamingo. We even ‘saw’ an Egyptian goose high on a cliff, spotted by our tracker... one that turned out to be a lanner falcon - much to the hilarity of us all. It was great to know he was human, as his phenominal tracking skills had led us to consider otherwise.

‘Back at Ecca Lodge, we took time some time to relax in our spacious suite, its interiors reflecting the natural hues of the bush...

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Southern boubou

Cute little Steenbok

Bull elephant in musth responsible traveller 45

Giraffe in the dense bush

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Federico and Maria from Florida had joined us, and as this was their first safari experience it was obvious that the ‘Big 5’ would be high on their list.

It wasn’t long before we stopped, not for one of the biggies as one might have expected, but a LBJ (little brown job) in the distance! According to Ryan it was an ant-eating chat, not convinced my hubby soon had his birding app playing its call and moments later the little bird was ‘chattering’ in the bush alongside the vehicle - Federico was amazed and his comment ‘ok, I can go home now’ set the tone for a fabulous couple of drives. We somehow knew that the ‘big’ sightings would be great, but they weren’t the only thing that would make our game experience special.

And yes, we did see lion, cheetah and buffalo... bat-eared fox and aardwolf, a leopard tortoise, a variety of antelope and many more birds. We shared conversation, laughter and binoculars;

G&T’s, biltong and Amarula ‘bush coffee’... as well as a very special moment. It was unexpected and took us by surprise, we had been searching for a leopard, it was being elusive so decided to stop for coffee.

It happened a short distance away, and the first we knew was when Federico apologised “sorry about all the kissing, but we just got engaged... we have so enjoyed our time together that we wanted to share it with you”. All thought of a leopard sighting now a thing of the past, we toast the occassion with coffee, and again with bubbly back at the Lodge.

It was a special moment, and we were privileged to share it. ‘This epitomises a ‘bush’ experience’, I thought to myself, confirming that it’s often the unexpected that is the most memorable. •

www.kwandwe.com www.ubunyefoundation.co.za

Congratulations Federico & Maria!!

Cheetah mom & her sub-adult cubs responsible traveller 47

What’s news...

Amarula Trust helps to build Namibia’s Eco-Tourism skills A skills training initiative designed to boost eco-tourism in Southern Africa and combat unemployment has so far exposed a total of 116 students to the demands of field guiding as a career.

The project, funded by the not-for-profit Amarula Trust, saw eight students undergo a month-long training course at the Erindi Private Game Reserve and Wilderness Safaris Damaraland Adventure Camp in Namibia, ending last week. This is the fourth time Namibian candidates have benefitted from the programme that extends field guide training provided by EcoTraining in association with the Field Guide Association of South Africa (FGASA).

Images - Vera Botha ©

The initiative comes at a time when Namibia’s travel and tourism industry is set to significantly increase its contribution to the gross domestic product (GDP). According to the World Travel and Tourism Council, travel and tourism accounted for 14,9% of GDP in 2014, a contribution that is expected to rise to 21,6% by 2025. The growth of the sector will also result in more jobs. The council anticipates that the 102 500 jobs it currently generates directly and indirectly, will rise to 186 000 by 2025 to represent 25% of the country’s total employment.

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Hardie Basson, who is marketing manager for Amarula’s parent company Distell, in Namibia, Botswana, Lesotho and Swaziland, said the building of rural skills to support eco-tourism was critical. “The growth in tourism means there is an increasing demand for qualified field guides to host mostly foreign guests. By facilitating the provision of skills, the Amarula Trust is also helping to tackle unemployment.

“The Amarula Field Guide Scholarship programme is a very important part of the work of the trust that focuses on promoting social sustainability and conservation. Begun in 2010 in Botswana, the programme was extended in 2011 to South Africa and, in 2012, to Namibia.”

Candidates with the potential to develop their careers who are currently working in entrylevel positions at game lodges and private reserves are chosen by their employers for the project, he explained. When they are promoted after undergoing the course, and they vacate their positions, they also create employment opportunities for others.

The latest Namibian course involved eight candidates from six game lodges and private reserves. Students were taught about the natural,

What’s news... physical environment and ecology, with the accent on climate, biomes and diversity. Some of the areas they covered included arthropods, amphibians, reptiles, birds, mammals, geology and soils. They also learned about astronomy, tracking, how to drive a 4x4 and even hosting of guests.

“Some of the students come to the course with a basic understanding of their natural environment.

The course builds on that and then formalises their knowledge and skills. It also teaches effective communication: how to transfer knowledge to tourists in a fun, interactive and informative manner,” said EcoTraining instructor Gerhard van Niekerk.

At the prize-giving ceremony, Van Niekerk said many of those who benefited from previous training courses run in South Africa, Botswana and Namibia, now worked as field guides in reserves and at private lodges. Some were in reserve or lodge management, while others had continued their studies to become academic researchers.He stressed the importance of the ongoing development and training of the candidates in order for them to become fullyfledged field guides.

For many of this year’s Namibian students, elephant tracking was their highlight. “We encountered an

elephant cow with her calf at the Wilderness Safaris Damaraland Adventure Camp,” said Rector Tetuka, a student from the Gondwana Namushasha River Lodge in the north of Namibia.

“This was the first time for many of us to come across elephants on foot. We were instructed to stand very still in a non-threatening way, and then to go down on our knees while the elephant cow and her calf passed by literally a few metres from where we were.

“It was exhilarating, but very scary. Experiences like this teach us to truly respect animals in their natural environments. Here they set the rules, not the humans.”

Students also learned to analyse elephant dung.

Sheldin Naruseb, a student from the Erindi Private Game Reserve, explained: “Generally speaking, if the tree bark and leaves in the dung are finely chewed, the elephant is considered young to middle-aged. This is because during their lifetime, elephants go through six sets of large teeth. When the elephant’s final set of teeth falls out, the animal slowly dies of malnutrition or starvation as it can no longer chew its food to release the essential nutrients.” •

www.ecotraining.co.za

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

Tented Eco Camp at Gondwana Game Reserve words & pics - Louise de Waal / Green Girls in Africa

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M

CONSERVATION PROFILE

aybe because I was born and bred in Holland, where nature is under huge pressure and highly fragmented to such an extent that it now merely resembles some scattered plant pots, I love the African bush. The wilderness and wide open spaces filled with animals that are part of an ecosystem with a functioning food chain, still holds my complete fascination. Whenever I spend time in the bush, I seem to develop an even closer bond with nature and feel even more respect for the natural order.

So it goes without saying that safari never really bores me. However, it can become a little unimaginative and cliché – the typical Africandesign lodge with opulent rooms, offering modern and lavish cuisine, day and night game drives, and, if you are lucky, the occasional nature walk.

Hence, I was truly excited to be invited by Nicky Arthur PR to visit GONDWANA GAME RESERVE near Mosselbay, who were introducing their new TENTED ECO CAMP. Better known for their upmarket Kwena Lodge and the private safari houses, Tented Eco Camp is Gondwana’s the new, green kid on the block.

Mark Rutherfoord, owner and driving force behind Gondwana, had a childhood dream to one day own a game reserve. In 2003, Mark and his wife Wendy started looking for potential locations to make this dream a reality and came across a sheep farm near Mosselbay. “We knew that this destination could work”, says Mark, “the Western Cape was relatively untouched in terms of big game and unknown as a wildlife destination, which was going to be a challenge, but this was the gateway to both the Garden Route and Cape Town.” Kwena Lodge and the real estate on Gondwana created the sound financial basis for the business, making it a viable and sustainable venture.

Gondwana Eco Camp, set in a secluded valley

To develop an eco-camp had always been part of Mark’s master plan and eight years ago he had already identified the location for such a camp – a small and intimate valley in a secluded responsible traveller 51

CONSERVATION PROFILE part of the reserve. This is where you can now find five brand new Meru-style safari tents set on wooden decks. If it wasn’t for the fact you arrive via Kwena, you would have no idea there are actually other people on the reserve.

The camp is fully off-grid and has no cell phone reception, but all your mod-cons are provided, including warm and comfortable beds, hot showers, flush loos and solar light. The vibe of the camp is relaxed and informal, which is also reflected in the food they serve – a fresh and wholesome affair with lots of South African staples, like potjies, braais and potbrood

‘The camp’s more down-to-earth accommodation style goes hand in hand with the activities they offer - hands on, involved, and educational, but a lot of fun at the same time...’

Distinctive V shaped blow of the Southern right whale

Keeping records of camera trap locations

Despite its laid-back atmosphere, the camp is run professionally by Brendan and Stevie Strydon, ranger and conservationist husband-wife team, with help from Abongile. I love their passion for the bush and conservation, and their enthusiasm to make the camp and its hands-on, eco focus work.

The camp’s more down-to-earth accommodation style goes hand in hand with the activities on offer – hands-on, involved, and educational, but a lot of fun at the same time. Guests are booked in blocks of five nights from Monday to Saturday, with special family departure dates. This way everybody starts on the same day and goes through the (bonding) experience together.

Mark wanted to develop a tourism product that gives “people an understanding of conservation issues from a different perspective, rather than from the back of a game vehicle”. As he further explains, “we don’t want to offer activities for 52 responsible traveller

Invertebrate survey

CONSERVATION PROFILE

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

Beautiful male lion

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Rhino, with 24-7 anti poaching control

CONSERVATION PROFILE the sake of keeping people busy. The activities on offer at eco-camp need to be meaningful and make an actual contribution to the environmental management of the reserve.”

This is what makes Tented Eco Camp a truly authentic experience. Not only will you be given ample opportunity to see the Big Five and all the other flora and fauna on the reserve, you can actually make a small contribution to their conservation. Driving around the reserve to carry out game counts to analyse what vegetation herbivores mostly feed on and where, setting up camera traps to get an insight into some of the nocturnal visitors, undertaking invertebrate surveys to evaluate the water quality of their rivers and streams, and tracking their radio collared lions, so that among others the Kwena rangers know where to take their guests to for the big cat encounter.

A young zebra at Gondwana Game Reserve

‘Not only will you be given ample opportunity to see the Big Five and all the other flora and fauna on the reserve, you can actually make a small contribution to their conservation...’

One of Gondwana’s biggest challenges is the encroachment of alien vegetation, especially Black wattle and Port Jackson, both dating back to the farming days. These invasive trees create monocultures that contribute very little in terms of conservation value and more importantly soak up huge quantities of groundwater leaving their streams literally dry. All guests get involved in their eradication programme. We went out one afternoon pulling Black wattle saplings and chopping the slightly bigger individuals. Hard work, but extremely rewarding and we appreciated the sundowners afterwards even more.

We all sometimes make the mistake of believing that everybody enjoys experiences in the same way and intensity as we do ourselves. However, the expression ’different strokes for different folks’ could not be more apparent reading my fellow traveller, Liezel’s story on GONDWANA’S TENTED ECO CAMP. Even though she needed a little longer to warm to the hands-on attitude, she opened her mind, found the bushbaby inside herself, and fully embraced the opportunity to probably be closer to nature than she wished for. And did she whack that Black wattle – you rock sister!. •

www.gondwanagr.co.za First published in:

By Louise de Waal responsible traveller 55

What’s news...

Thailand reaffirms its commitment to Responsible Tourism The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) reaffirmed Thailand’s commitment to promoting responsible tourism in 2016. Mr. Yuthasak Supasorn, TAT Governor said, “TAT recognises this niche event as an ideal platform to reiterate Thailand’s long-term commitment to promoting responsible tourism, especially to the who’s who of the industry.

TAT initiated the Seven Greens concept in 2009 to establish a conceptual framework and umbrella theme for the implementation of green initiatives with the ultimate goal towards responsible tourism. In 2012, it began promoting guidelines of eco-friendly attraction management in major destinations, and to-date has endorsed nearly 400 green hotels and 50 ready-to-market eco-friendly products across the country. It has recently launched the Amazing Thailand Green Routes to encourage tour operators to promote products with a friendly environment for foreign visitors to experience local cultures, learn local traditions and lifestyles.

Some of these award-winning products have also won global awards; such as, Ban Mae Kampong (Mae Kampong homestay), a beautiful village in Mae On District, Chiang Mai, which won the PATA Gold Award 2010 in the culture category; Ban Na Ton Chan Community in Sukhothai, which won the PATA Gold Award 2012 in the heritage and culture category, and Ban Rai Kong Khing, a communitybased tourism village in Hang Dong district, Chiang Mai, which won the Tourism Inspired Award 2015, as the best community-based tourism initiative.

Mr. Yuthasak said, “These are only some of TAT’s initiatives, which form part of our long-term commitment to promote responsible tourism, and we will continue to do so even more aggressively.

However, TAT cannot achieve responsible tourism alone; this requires the cooperation from all stakeholders to join hands together to create the betterment of sustainable tourism.”. •

www.tourismthailand.org

Images - Tourism Authority of Thailand ©

The Thailand Tourism Awards was initiated in 1996 to reward creative and responsible tourism entrepreneurs, products and services that highlight Thai culture, protect the environment and contribute to society. The vast majority of

the Award winners, especially the hotels and tour operators, have been small and medium sized enterprises, as well as the local communities. The Awards presentation is held every two years on World Tourism Day on 27 September.

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Image - Greyhound / Shutterstock

T R AV E L T I P S f rom the marke t pl a c e‌

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F

arewell summer, it’s time to fall in love with South African winters.

Greyhound’s Customer Care Manager Juan-Pierre Du Buisson bids farewell to summer days and says hello to a mild South African winter spent exploring what our gorgeous country has to offer.

We as South Africans are incredibly lucky that we don’t experience the bone-chilling winters that most of the world does. Sure, it can get a little nippy, but nothing that forces us to run for the covers and wait out the winter months. We live in one of the most exquisite destinations in the world and it’s time to get out there and soak it all up!

The milder winters that we experience offer us the perfect conditions to hit the road and explore South Africa; which is just as beautiful in winter as it is in summer. Throw in the added perks of cheaper accommodation, quieter roads and less crowded holiday destinations, and travelling during the winter season becomes a tempting option for anyone.

Planning a trip on a budget can be tricky, but travelling in these off-peak months can make a world of difference to your bank account. Whether you’re looking to head to the beautiful beaches along the Wild Coast or planning a cosy getaway to the mountains around the Kwa-Zulu Natal region, doing so in winter has its benefits. With the final curtain coming down on summer, here are some things to consider before you hit the highway.

Location, location, location Undoubtedly, deciding what part of South Africa you’d like to explore is step one of planning your getaway. We’re lucky to live in a country that has so much to offer – from untouched beaches and jaw dropping cityscapes, to vast plains where wild animals roam free.

The best way to decide on a destination is to consider what you feel like getting up to once you are there. If you are more interested in kicking back and relaxing than hiking, skydiving and exploring, give the destination a call to find out what activities are on offer and whether they have any off-peak specials running.

Hitting the road It’s a sad reality that South African roads are carnage during peak season, making the quiet responsible traveller 59

roads during winter a welcome thought for most travellers. Whether simply heading a couple of kilometres out of Jozi, or taking the road-less travelled to the Mother City, it’s important to weigh up your travel options.

Why not consider getting a group of your nearest and dearest together and hopping on a bus?

Taking a bus is not only cheaper, but it’s also the safer option - giving you time to sit back, relax and soak up the sights along the road. You’ll also arrive completely relaxed, no need for a nap after a long drive. Bonus!

Whatever you decide to do this winter, make sure you take it all in. South Africa offers uniquely beautiful winter scenery and the cultural diversity makes for a rich experience. Get your friends and family together, dust off the old map and awaken your soul with a trip. After all, travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer.

www.greyhound.co.za

Responsible Driving...

Even the smallest change to lifestyle can make a big impact. The Ford Motor Company South Africa offers some handy driving tips that could lessen your environmental impact.

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Try to keep the auto-stop function on your car active. This function saves petrol and reduces CO2 emissions. Carbon emissions are grouped under “greenhouse gases” and are directly related to climate change – specifically global warming.

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Practice safe and courteous driving. The more aggressively you drive the more fuel you consume. As fuel costs rise and concerns about the environment increase, a safe and efficient driving culture will help to save fuel and significantly reduce greenhouse gas emissions, therefore saving money and creating a safer environment.

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Keep your litter inside the car and dispose of it responsibly when you get to your destination. Litter is not only unsightly but it can kill plants or stunt their growth, destroy natural areas, and can cause harm to animals and birds.

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Avoid throwing cigarette butts out the window, especially near grassy areas that can catch alight and result in fast spreading veld fires and the destruction of animals, trees and natural vegetation.

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Images - Greyhound / Shutterstock

On the Road:

Going Off-road

are not spinning freely and digging unnatural trenches into the soil. These trenches add to corrosion and potential soil erosion when it rains. (Remember to disengage 4WD when returning to the tar road).

Venturing off-road comes with huge responsibility.

By heading off on the road less travelled you have the potential to damage the surrounding environment, including flora and fauna.

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The rule for off-road driving is to tackle each surface as slowly as possible, and as fast as necessary. Driving over an obstacle slowly minimises the vehicle’s impact on the terrain, and ensures that there is a reduced risk of damage to the vehicle and occupants. Certain terrains, such as mud and soft sand, do require a bit of momentum and an extra dose of speed may be required in order to get through. Use only as much speed as is necessary however, and always be mindful of what is on the other side. Keep an eye out for nesting birds or animals in the grass. It is always advisable to check what is on the other side before venturing over a difficult patch.

In a 4x4 vehicle, such as a Ford Ranger, it is advisable to engage four-wheel drive highrange as soon as you leave the tarmac. This ensures even power distribution between the front and rear wheels, improved grip on slippery surfaces, greater driving safety and reduced environmental impact as the wheels

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For rough off-road terrain, engage low-range 4x4 mode. This reduces the vehicle’s speed, allows more torque transfer to the drive wheels and gives greater control, reducing the risk of scraping away soil and stones on the route. Careful modulation of the accelerator will avoid excessive wheel spin and damage to the surface of the terrain.

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Deflate tyres when on softer surfaces, such as loose sand. This will increase the contact area with the sand and assist with flotation, which means that the tyre will ride on top of the sand instead of digging down into it and possibly getting stuck. Deep tracks make soil erosion more likely when the area experiences heavy rains.

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Always drive on established tracks. Avoid creating new routes or tracks as this damages the sensitive ecology of the environment you are exploring.

www.ford.co.za

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Your guide to the perfect holiday first aid kit Emergency medical services provider, Netcare 911, is urging travellers to be adequately prepared to deal with unexpected injury and illness while on holiday. According to Shalen Ramduth, Netcare 911’s general manager national operations, everyone should take a well-stocked first aid kit along for unexpected medical emergencies when travelling. “In a medical emergency a well-stocked first aid kit can make a real difference, as it will serve as an interim resource until professional help arrives.

The contents of your first aid kit should also help you in dealing with minor injuries that do not require assistance from healthcare professionals such as paramedics or doctors,” he adds.

#1: Take time out and learn to save a life “Accidents can happen at any time, which is why we always advise individuals to learn first aid skills so that they know what to do in an emergency,” he adds. “Netcare Education’s Faculty of Emergency and Critical Care offers first aid courses from level one to three to the public covering medical, trauma and paediatric emergencies and are also ideal for people dealing with children or the infirm, equipping individuals to provide basic supportive care until healthcare professionals can take over the patient’s management.”

“All South Africans should learn how to do basic cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR), as every minute that CPR is done until paramedics arrive may help save a life – it has been shown internationally that this improves survival rates.

These courses are particularly valuable for parents, as nothing can be more upsetting than being unable to assist your child if he or she is in distress while you wait for medical assistance to arrive,” asserts Ramduth.

#2: Vulnerability to illness while travelling According to Ramduth individuals are not only vulnerable to accidents but may also fall ill while on holiday. Our natural immune system

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protects us against organisms in our regular environment and we are therefore relatively resistant to these organisms. Away from home and the environment to which our bodies have adapted, we are exposed to different situations and organisms to which we have not previously been exposed and against which we may not have immunity.

Some airborne organisms are spread via air conditioning or in closed environments, such as in an aircraft. The drying effect of air conditioning is bad for the health of the mucosal surfaces of the respiratory tract, making our bodies’ defences less effective. A change in routine, with late nights and inadequate sleep and rest, may also affect the immune system. The well-known jet lag can be just as incapacitating as the malaise of flu. In addition, gastro-intestinal illnesses are certainly more prevalent amongst holidaymakers and tourists, who may eat exotic and richer foods than their digestive systems are not used to. Travellers are also prone to stomach upsets caused by certain bacteria and other organisms, a condition known as traveller’s diarrhoea.

#3: Watch out for the sun!

Overexposure to the sun during holidays could result in an array of heat-related ailments such as sunburn, heatstroke or heat exhaustion. “Drink enough water, eat regularly, get enough rest, wear sunglasses and a sun hat, use a high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreen when you do go out, and avoid the sun between 10h00 and 16h00. Also consider that alcohol, as a diuretic, is dehydrating and therefore should be drunk in moderation, if at all,” advises Ramduth.

#4: Get help fast with mySOS Technology is making it easier to call for assistance in case of an emergency, through a recent partnership between Netcare 911 and mySOS emergency mobile application.

In an emergency, the mySOS app sends an alert to Netcare 911’s national emergency operations centre or other relevant emergency services, as well as to your selected loved ones to show them your global positioning system (GPS) location.

The app also makes a phone call to Netcare 911, or the most appropriate service provider for the type of emergency encountered, so that appropriate assistance can be mobilised in the shortest possible time. The app includes a function that can track you when you are travelling, providing greater safety and peace of mind for both the traveller and their loved ones. If you do not reach your destination within a time limit set by yourself, the app will alert your selected emergency contacts, providing them with your position and a map of the route you took, while continuing to track your location.

This potentially lifesaving service is designed to be efficient, as it uses minimal battery power on your phone.

“It is especially annoying to fall ill or sustain an injury while you are on holiday, a time when you most want to be enjoying yourself. It is therefore important to take the appropriate measures to reduce the risk of illness and injury and adequately prepare for unexpected incidents,” concludes Ramduth.

The mySOS app can be downloaded at:

www.mysos.co.za

NETCARE 911’S RECOMMENDED FIRST AID KIT FOR TRAVELLERS • 4 packs of sterile gauze • Adhesive, hypoallergenic tape • Adhesive bandages in several sizes • 2 triangular elastic bandages • Crepe roller bandages – 1 large and 1 small • Sterile dressings – 2 large and 2 small • Burnshield dressings of various sizes • 2 eye pads with bandages • Pack of sterile cotton wool swabs • Assorted plasters • Antiseptic wipes • Antibiotic cream • 1 pack of paracetamol tablets

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and liquid paracetamol Rehydration sachets Additional supplies of prescription medication (if going away on holiday) Tweezers Sharp scissors 6 safety pins Face cloth Thermometer 2 pairs of gloves Space blanket Torch and spare batteries List of emergency contact numbers e.g. ambulance, family doctor, paediatrician etc.

www.netcare911.co.za

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What’s news...

Constance Moofushi Maldives Luxury Eco Resort of the Year 2016 Green Globe certified Constance Moofushi Maldives has been rewarded for its remarkable work for the conservation of the ecosystem. The 5-star hotel, part of Constance Hotels and Resorts, has been named Luxury Eco Resort of the Year by the Luxury Travel Guide.

This award is a milestone in the development of Constance Moofushi Maldives, for which preservation of the nature contributes to the emotional luxury. To this end, several actions are implemented to minimize the hotel’s impact on the environment, and to sensitize its guests and the community of the island.

The management has done much to reduce waste. It has distributed reusable bottles to its staff, halving the number of plastic bottle waste.

Disposable materials are also cleverly recycled, like an ephemeral decoration has been transformed into a home for corals in the lagoon.

Constance Moofushi Maldives is committed to responsible purchasing as well. The hotel made a partnership with Hortifarm, a local supplier of fruits and vegetables, and purchases fish from local fishermen. With the same aim of reducing the “farm to fork” distance, the executive Chef Richard Thompson has developed the hotel’s own herb garden. An active participant of global events like the Earth Day, each year Constance Moofushi Maldives organizes inclusive workshops.

In this way, guests take part in tree planting with Himandhoo Local Village School or participate in

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the reef cleaning with the staff of the hotel. Besides these actions, the hotel regularly invites students to attend conference run by its marine biologist.

Olivier de Guardia, General Manager of the hotel is really proud of this recognition. “Here at Constance Moofushi Maldvies, we have all what is needed to operate sustainably. It has become a second nature. For three years now, we’ve made eco-friendly improvements, including installation of energy-efficient appliances or switching to nontoxic products. We are recycling, composting and significantly reducing waste. We are also doing our part to support local communities and to sensitize our guests. This is an easy task too: those coming at Constance Moofushi Maldives are so thankful to be in this wonderful setting that they are naturally respectful of the environment.”

As a group, Constance Hotels and Resorts is mindful of the necessity of operating sustainably, with six of its luxurious properties across the Maldives, Seychelles and Mauritius receiving Green Globe certification. While abiding by the local laws of the countries where it operates, the Mauritian group of hotels aims to increase the sustainability of its actions and to minimise its impact on the environment. Positive contributions have been made for biodiversity conservation, cultural heritage preservation and community development •

www.constancehotels.comX

What’s news...

Shamwari Game Reserve introduces K9 Tracking With the annual increase of rhino poaching in the Eastern Cape Province, the need arose to complement the Shamwari Game Reserve Rhino Protection Unit with K9 tracking capacity.

The Chipembere Rhino Foundation (CRF) has facilitated and sponsored a dog as they successfully supplied trained dogs for rhino protection elsewhere in the Eastern Cape during 2014 and 2015. A young Belgian Shepherd at a well-known Port Elizabeth based Dog School, was identified that would fit all the requirements for anti-poaching tracking. The dog, Blade, 18 months old, was trained off site before being introduced to, and trained by its handler, Cabous Pretorius, at Shamwari Game Reserve at the beginning of April. Blade had to adapt to a Big Five environment which he has done perfectly.

Comments Shamwari Group General Manager, Joe Cloete: “Blade will be a valuable asset in the fight against rhino poaching and will primarily be utilised to locate and apprehend rhino poachers. We sincerely thank the Chipembere Rhino Foundation for arranging Blade to come and work at Shamwari Game Reserve.”

www.shamwari.com

A field guide that every child should take into the bush GUIDE TO THE ANIMALS OF SOUTHERN AFRICA provides young outdoor enthusiasts with fascinating facts about animals inhabiting southern Africa. Full-colour photographs, beautiful illustrations and informative text helps children understand what the lives of these animals are all about. It answers many fun and intriguing questions about why the animals look and behave the way they do. Discover the amazing adaptations that animals have developed in order to survive. Find out about their lifecycles, the places they live, why some keep territories, why they migrate or hibernate, how they find a mate and escape predators, and how they interact with one another.

Conservation matters are discussed under the categories: mammals; birds; frogs and reptiles; and insects and other invertebrates. Practical conservation examples are given throughout the book, under the heading How can you help?

ABOUT THE AUTHOR - Lynne Matthews is a freelance zoological and environmental consultant based in Durban, South Africa. She has worked on various projects such as biodiversity conservation and management and sustainable development and integrated natural resource management at numerous institutions, including Indiflora Environmental Services, the International Livestock Research Institute, the International Union for the Conservation of Nature, and the Mammal Research Institute. She has published a number of environmental education and awareness books. •

www.jacana.co.za responsible traveller 65

responsible travel

There’s so much to discover in Cape Town & the Western Cape. Why not try and make a difference while you’re here on your adventure? Be part of the “Green Travel” revolution when you choose and buy eco-friendly products. Explore with a tour operator that is socially and environmentally responsible. Research and know the culture of the community you are visiting so that you can respect their dignity and privacy – remember to ask for permission before you take pics. Don’t pick the flowers, or there won’t be any left when you visit again.

Be inspired to help future generations discover more.

www.discoverctwc.co.za discoverctwc @discoverctwc discoverctwc #discoverctwc