Responsible Traveller mag - edition 3 - 2018

R E S P O N S I B L E be the difference

edition 3 – 2018

Wild & Wonderful • • • •

Thanda Safari Maputo Special Reserve Walk Japan Transformational Experiences

w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a

The only 5-star cage diving experience in South Africa. More than just a dive, our biologists share their knowledge & adventures on each trip!

Experience the Marine Big Five in their natural environment.

Focused on the protection of African Penguins & sea birds.

Discover & Protect - in partnership with the Dyer Island Conservation Trust.

www.DICT.org.za

Comment

Welcome to another edition of Responsible Traveller.

In this edition we celebrate Wild & Wonderful places...

Intricately linked to people and places is conservation and communities... and where better to explore this than at Anvil Bay in the Maputo Special Reserve., and we ‘get back to nature’ at Thanda Safari and learn a little more about elephants in the process . The Marine Dynamics team never fails to inspire and we join them to learn about their studies of a local ecosystem and how the science is all about ‘Discover, Protect and Educate’.

We go global with Exploration Travel in Norway with Hurtigruten, we Walk Japan to discover its culture and traditions and we discover how seeing a destination through different eyes and perspectives makes all the difference through Transformational Travel Experiences in India.

A new experience on the horizon for travellers to Mauritius is SALT, the progressive new boutique hotel brand from the creators of LUX* Resorts & Hotels - described as ‘as a humanistic approach to hospitality targeting the culturally curious.’

Watch this space as we get to discover SALT for ourselves in the new year. In sticking with the ‘new’, Three Tree Hill introduces Burchell’s Family Cottage, a new eco-cottage in keeping with naturalist William John Burchell’s interest in natural history.

But as I always say, the responsibility of being a responsible traveller lies ultimately with the person travelling and the choices they make. It’s about choosing to conserve not waste, to eat, play, stay and shop local... by choosing to have conversations with locals and experiencing the ‘real’ destination, you add value and return home with irreplaceable memories.

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

Tessa

Magazine Information edition 4 - 2018 Publisher / Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published bi-monthly

Cover Image: Red-billed Oxpecker pic - wikiimages

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents REGULARS: Comment

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Being a Responsible Traveller 05

DESTINATIONS & PLACES TO STAY:

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Thanda Safari, makes getting back to nature easy

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Three Tree Hill introduces Burchell’s Family Cottage 34 Into the Wild 48

ADVENTURE & ACTIVITIES: Walk Japan 38 Exploration Travel...

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Transformational Travel Experiences in India 70

SUSTAINABILE TOURISM & CONSERVATION:

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An ecosystem studied... 20 Hotel Verde 30 Comic book gets Rhino Conservation message across 54 Hilton Seychelles

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NEWS: Responsible Tourism Criteria for Kruger National Park

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National Geographic Expeditionsand Ponant cruise partnership 19

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New ranger accommodation for iSimangaliso

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Wilderness Safarais returns to Chikwenya, Zimbabwe

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Introducing SALT the new boutique Hotel Brand from Lux*

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A new record for whale sightings at De Hoop

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EWT wins award for Endangered Species Conservation

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Journeys with Purpose Conservation Expedition

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www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

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THANDA SAFARI... makes getting back to nature easy words & pics -Tessa Buhrmann

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t was freezing. And the wind had howled all night… despite this my wake-up call at 5:15am had me up and waiting to be escorted to the dining area for coffee in no time. I was the only one braving the cold that morning – sometimes you just do what you got to do, because you never know what you might be missing!!

We had arrived at Thanda Safari two days previously on a gloriously warm and sunny day, just what you’d expect in these northern reaches of KwaZulu-Natal. After a quick welcome drink and the obligatory paperwork I clambered onto the waiting game viewing vehicle with Matthew and Zakes, our ranger and tracker, and three other guests. Soon all thought of packing and traffic was gone and I was immersed in a tale of harems, allogrooming and territorial males.

Impalas are a somewhat overlooked species in many game reserves, especially with so much focus on finding the Big Five, so it was a pleasure to sit quietly and watch the herd. Ever alert, the dominant male kept an eye on us, the surroundings and his lovely harem, who at this point were being de-ticked by ox peckers and groomed by one another. Matthew explained that they were allogrooming - an important means of social interaction where females typically groom related impalas, each partner grooming the other numerous times. In a male

Heading out on a game drive

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bachelor herd they would generally associate with unrelated ones. The interesting thing is that impalas seem to be the only ungulate to display this behaviour.

We watch a fiscal shrike (aka Jackie hangman or butcher-bird) fly off with what looked like a spotted bush snake in its beak, probably to impale it onto a thorn of one of the many Acacia trees in the area. And smiled as a white rhino played ‘hide and seek’ with us ‘hiding’ itself behind a small slender tree, its broad grey rear not quite disappearing as effectively as it would have hoped. Cameras clicked rapidly as we watched a cheetah roll this-way-and-that, contentedly flicking its tail – I’m sure it must have been purring. Ever full of interesting information, Matthew tells that the cheetah is the only big cat that purrs, but that unlike other big cats, cannot roar.

A good afternoon’s game viewing deserves a spectacular African sunset and the obligatory G&T – Thanda Safari didn’t disappoint on either.

One of the collared cheetah at Thanda Safari

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We were in Thanda Safari’s tented camp and my tent, with its ‘Out of Africa’ feel, had a wonderfully spacious bedroom, en-suite canvas bathroom and huge outdoor shower.

The private deck overlooking the valley offered the perfect spot to relax, binoculars in hand, watching the birds flitting in the bush and checking the distant hillside for ellies.

Thanda Tented Camp is non-electrified, relying on solar and battery power with a few hours of generator to power the tents each day, and paraffin lamps to light the pathways by night. Meals at Thanda Tented Camp include breakfast, a high tea before the afternoon game drive and dinner – either in the main dining area or the boma, weather permitting.

Winter flowering aloes

Breakfast buffet

Leisure time between game drives can be spent napping in your suite, taking the opportunity to upskill with a few photographic lessons from resident photographer Christian Sperka or being wonderfully pampered at the safari spa.

Needless to say, the nap and photographic lesson would have to wait for another visit, as I opted for a spa treatment… I could feel the stress of the previous weeks roll away as while I breathed in the subtle fragrances of orange and jasmine as the breeze from the open tent cooled the air.

Driving through the rolling hills of this, the Zululand region, of KwaZulu-Natal one cannot help but be aware of the challenges rural Zulu communities face and checking in for a luxury safari experience could feel somewhat improper. And it would be were it not for the ethos of responsible tourism that underpins every decision owners of Thanda Safari, Christin and Dan Olofsson make. From the very beginning with their significant investment and commitment to creating employment, to their continuous work into the neighbouring communities, the rehabilitation of the land and the many conservation initiatives. Their love for Africa and the Zulu people is even reflected in the name – Thanda, means ‘love’ in isiZulu.

It is at our coffee break, and while Matthew is whisking up some bush coffee, we learn a little more about the land rehabilitation and game restoration projects at Thanda. Zakes, who has been at Thanda from its conception, tells us that the lush bushveld we now see was once overgrazed and unproductive farmland.

He also tells of the newest section of the reserve, the Mduna Royal Reserve (land that 12 responsible traveller

Red-billed ox-peckers foraging for ticks on a buffalo

My gorgeous tented suite tucked into the bush with fabulous views!

Large male lion White rhino

A smile and warm welcome on arrival at Thanda Safari responsible traveller 13

Sunrises and expectations go together in the bush!!

is owned by the Ingonyama Trust Board, of which King Zwelithini Goodwill kaBhekuzulu is the sole trustee), is leased by Thanda on a longterm, exclusive use basis. And that Thanda has committed to return this land to its wilderness state, to reintroduce and manage the wildlife, and to ensure security and anti-poaching measures. This doesn’t surprise me knowing that Thanda’s ecological commitment is about looking after and sustainably utilising the land, water, animals and plants in a way that offers maximum benefit to local communities and future generations.

It was Zakes knowledge of the bush and traditional Zulu culture however that added another dimension to each game drive. He told of traditional remedies, passed down from one generation to another, and of bush skills like creating a toothbrush using a thin branch from a Blue Guarri bush (umNqandaqne) and using ash from the fire as toothpaste. And Zulu traditions, 14 responsible traveller

like the significance of the buffalo thorn (Ziziphus mucronata) – it is used by family members to retrieve the spirit of the deceased from where he died. The chosen person goes to the place where their family member died carrying a branch of the spirit tree (as it is called by the Zulus), it gives the spirit something to hold on to where it is then taken back to the homestead where it is given a resting place near the family.

From an unsuccessful attempt to find a lioness and her cubs, to instead seeing an old lone lion – his body ailing but his spirit still strong; to plains bathed in golden sunlight alive with impala, zebra and wildebeest (gnu) to an unexpected change in weather that had us scuttling for the warmth and comfort of our tented ‘home’.

It was this unexpected weather (who expects horrid weather when on safari? Despite the fact that the weatherman would say ‘I told you so’) that had me up before sparrows ready to brave

‘It was Zakes knowledge of the bush and traditional Zulu culture however that added another dimension to each game drive...’ the cold. Even Matthew gave me the option of a graceful exit. ‘No’, I told him, ‘I’m dressed and I’ve had coffee… and after all you never quite know what you might see.’

Matthew had opted for low-lying riverine areas to escape the cold wind, we’d leisurely watched the sunrise, seen the odd nyala – even they were choosing the thickets to escape the weather, and were comfortable just chatting about all things bush related. Suddenly Zakes whispered ‘elephant’, pointing across the ravine.

We crossed over hoping to see them better, only to find they had crossed the other way, but Zakes said ‘don’t worry, go back and we’ll meet them on the other side’.

The first lumbering form appeared from the bush, followed by another, and another… they were headed in our direction, with some nimble manoeuvring Matthew had us out the way. But an elephant’s curiosity knows no bounds and

soon there was a trunk sniffing the air around us, but not quite brave enough to touch. Zakes and Matthew spoke to the elephant quietly, while I sat mesmerised enjoying every moment of this intimate experience.

Once the moment had passed and the ellies had moved off Zakes told me that the African people regard the elephant with a very deep reverence. That the Zulu, Tswana and Tsonga names for the elephant all mean ‘the forceful one’, ‘the unstoppable one’… and that in Zulu the name for an elephant is indlovu, from the verb dlovu, which means to ‘crash through’, ‘to ‘pierce savagely’.

I too have a deep reverence for the elephant, whose large form could so easily have ‘crashed through’ our vehicle and ‘pierced us so very savagely’. So much respect for these incredible creatures and for the rangers and guides who make these experiences possible. • responsible traveller 15

Some cool elephant facts... courtesy of our Thanda Safari guide, Matthew Haynes.

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An adult elephant can consume up to 50 TONNES of vegetation per year.

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They eat almost ANY type of vegetation. From roots right up to leaves and everything in between... BUT they are very selective about what they eat and they know exactly how to forage for it. For example, the Bushveld/Wild Grape is a succulent creeper that grows on and around other plants. It is known locally as Elephant pudding as the elephants LOVE it and will expertly unwind it from a tree or just break down an entire tree limb covered with the creeper and feed from it off the ground to make it easier. They even pick out small branches, from the tree they broke, from their mouths as they eat! VERY selective and quite fussy actually.

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What they eat also doesn’t stay in them for very long, only an hour or so, as some vegetation comes out still a bit green and they also do not chew very finely. Their droppings are very coarse and you can often figure out exactly what plants they have been eating after a closer look. Many animals feed on the elephant’s dung itself as small whole fruits and berries often pass straight through. Guinea fowls are a prime suspects for pecking at the dung.

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So, they are selective, BULK, MIXED feeders and because of this the locals believe that if you have any intestinal issues, you can find some fresh dung, about 2 cups, place it in a 5-litre bottle, fill the bottle with water and shake it vigorously for a few minutes and then let it stand overnight or at least for a few hours, and then drink the water, it will ‘re-balance’ your internal flora as their digestive tract is not so different from ours. They are hind-gut fermenters which means they have one big stomach, not four stomachs like ruminants, i.e. cows/buffalos.

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The dry dung can also be placed on a fire as an insect repellent.

www.thanda.com

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CLICK HERE for Thanda Safari’s SOUTH AFRICAN and SADC MEMBER special rates.!! responsible traveller 17

What’s news...

Fair Trade Tourism Consortium to Develop Responsible Tourism Criteria for Greater Kruger Protected Area.

A Fair Trade Tourism (FTT) consortium has been awarded a tender to develop responsible tourism criteria for the Greater Kruger Protected Area (GKPA). The tender forms part of a large-scale Global Environment Fund (GEF) programme to promote the wildlife economy and associated socio-economic development of the region. The Project’s implementation is facilitated in the Lowveld and Escarpment Areas by the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region.

The Greater Kruger Protected Area (GKPA) includes not only the Kruger National Park but its surrounding protected areas including the Manyeleti, Makuya, Letaba Ranch, Mthimkulu, Timbavati, Balule, Umbabat, Klaserie, Thornybush, Sabi Sand, Mala Mala, Kapama, Makalali, the Kruger to Canyons Biosphere Region and Vhembe Biosphere. Hundreds of tourism businesses operate within this area, while the Kruger Park itself receives more than 1,4 million visitors annually.

FTT has compiled an expert team of consultants with a combined 60 years of experience in conservation management and responsible tourism development for the project. The consultants are Jane Edge and Ana Lemmer of Fair Trade Tourism, Lisa Scriven of Levelle Perspectives, Steve Collins of the African Safari Lodge Foundation, Annie Sugrue and Dorah Marema of the Luhlaza Foundation, and Julian Sturgeon.

Their task will include developing an assessment tool to ensure compliance with criteria aligned to South Africa’s Minimum Standards for Responsible Tourism, SANS 1162 (2011).

Crocodile Bridge, Kruger National Park

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Jane Edge, MD of Fair Trade Tourism, said the responsible tourism criteria would align with the new management plan for Kruger National Park which was drawn up after extensive consultation with 54 different stakeholder groups. “We are excited to be playing a role in the long-term development of the Greater Kruger, with its landscape-level vision and focus on local community empowerment.

Implementing Responsible Tourism standards will play an important enabling role in helping to realise this vision.”

Glenn Phillips, Managing Executive of the Kruger National Park, said the park’s new externally focused management plan would guide the GKPA’s approach over the next ten years. “It is important for all tourism operators in the GKPA to subscribe to a common vision of inclusive tourism that benefits the environment and local communities,” he said. ”This can only be achieved through commonly applied responsible tourism practices.”

Don Scott, MD of Tanda Thula Lodge and a representative on the GKPA responsible tourism committee, said: “The conservation community has a new path ahead of it, with great efforts needed to integrate communities into the wildlife economy. The park’s new management plan is a shining example of how High Road thinking can lead to a thriving wilderness landscape.” •

www.fairtrade.travel

What’s news...

National Geographic Expeditions and Ponant announce an extensive long-term cruise partnership National Geographic Expeditions, the travel business of one of the world’s most trusted brands, and PONANT, a world leader of luxury expedition cruises, have today announced a new strategic partnership to create an extensive range of co-branded, luxury expedition cruises.

With a shared common vision in premium experiences and responsible travel, PONANT and National Geographic Expeditions will offer an extensive range of expedition cruises throughout the world, targeting customers in Australia, NZ and Asia Pacific.

As part of the overall experience, PONANT will create unique itineraries to some of the most remote and inaccessible places on the planet, transporting guests in style and comfort along with innovative new features, including a new multi-sensory underwater lounge called Blue Eye. National Geographic Expeditions will provide a range of expedition resources onboard, including leading experts and National Geographic photographers to travel and engage with all guests to create an immersive and quality experience.

The luxury ships will offer an intimate experience with total passengers ranging from 180 to 240 per cruise and 130 itineraries have been designed for the next four years. Core

destinations will be the Antarctic and Arctic, which will be complemented by a range of global expeditions covering all continents.

National Geographic Expeditions is the premium provider of travel experiences that embody the renowned National Geographic spirit of adventure, conservation and education.

Offering unique access, experiences and expertise that only National Geographic can, the company also returns a portion of all proceeds to the non-profit National Geographic Society to support researchers and explorers who work to preserve, protect, and advance understanding of the planet and its people.

PONANT is a world leader in luxury expedition cruising operating a state of the art fleet of 7 small ships, increasing to 12 by 2021, with the delivery of new Expedition class vessels and a luxury hybrid Icebreaker powered by LNG. The full fleet has been ‘clean ship’ certified and offers a number of leading edge technologies to protect the environment, including recycling and reuse programmes, reduced exhaust emissions and sustainable purchasing practices.

All efforts made by the luxury cruise operator are designed to respect the environment and marine life. •

www.ponant.com

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

• Discover • Protect • Educate 20 responsible traveller

CONSERVATION PROFILE Deploying BRUV stations off the research boat

An ecosystem studied...

by Marine Dynamics Academy. Text and photos by Marine Dynamics biologists and interns.

Detailed blogs available on www.marinedynamics.org/academy (Edited by Brenda du Toit) responsible traveller 21

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Marine Dynamics tourism hub offers five-star shark cage diving and whale watching/eco tours in the unique Dyer Island ecosystem of Gansbaai. The companies are Fair Trade Tourism certified and through their environmental project, the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, are making a real difference for conservation and the community. Throughout our operation, we continually identify gaps in marine conservation knowledge, education and awareness in our area. The Dyer Island ecosystem is unique and fragile and it is the priority of Marine Dynamics to ensure the marine life in the area flourish and remain for many years to come.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

While we have reported widely on our white shark research and African penguin conservation efforts with our passionate team of conservationists and marine biologists, we do other research that benefits broader studies and adds to the knowledge of the area. (Click to read previous articles - Shark Science, Every Bird Counts and Conservation Heroes)

being done under the banner of the Dyer island Conservation Trust and in collaboration with various conservation partners, provide the perfect platform for skills training. The goal of this scientific internship is to consistently inspire and train excellence in marine research, conservation and outreach.

Our International Marine Volunteer Programme has introduced students from around the world to the Dyer Island ecosystem. The team is now working on a skills-based internship for future marine biologists. Thus, many of the studies

BRUVS are Baited Remote Underwater Video Systems. A metal frame houses a GoPro camera and a bait canister to attract fish in order to investigate the community structure and diversity at specific locations. These non-

Measuring salinity at the Uilenskraalmond Estuary

BRUV Studies

WE AIM TO: • Discover and understand this globally important marine eco-system through world-class scientific research

• Protect the long-

term future of the species which live here, by translating this knowledge into evidencebased conservation initiatives and legislation

• Educate our partners

– local communities, legislators and visitors – by informing and actively involving them in achieving our goals for the benefit of all responsible traveller 23

CONSERVATION PROFILE invasive sampling methods are becoming critical around the world, especially in marine reserves and for sampling species of conservation concern, where destructive sampling would be counter-productive. This study is done at the very minimum every quarter, but where possible, on a monthly basis. All data is shared to SAEON - South African Environmental Observation Network – for analysis that forms part of a national study. This data can influence Marine Protected Areas.

“The roles of organising the ropes, bait canister, GoPro and data entry were divided amongst the interns and rotated with every deployment.

Positions also included manning the buoy and the shared task of hauling the light but awkwardly shaped frame overboard, each of which got progressively smoother with every operation.

Collating data from the estuarine monitoring

After each of the four devices had spent an hour at their predetermined location, it was time to retrieve them, starting with the first deployed and through the remaining points with the same systematic approach the interns learnt the first time round. Manoeuvring the buoy and rope to lift the BRUVS out of the water brought its own challenges which, now with the windspeed and swell picking up, the interns had to quickly adapt and communication was key.

As soon as the final device was lifted and all relevant data was collected the team were off to calmer waters. This exercise not only tested the interns’ equipment and data handling under pressure on deck, but also called upon their ability to listen and communicate with each other, working as a single unit as safely and efficiently as possible. We will analyse the footage over the coming days and identify the shark species that came into view of the BRUV array.” – Anna Harrison, Intern, Marine Dynamics Academy.

(Click HERE to check out what Marine Dynamics were able to capture on a recent BRUV deployment – Great White Shark Investigates BRUV)

ORI Tagging ‘The Oceanographic Research Institute’s (ORI) Cooperative Fish Tagging Project (ORI-CFTP) is a long-term collaborative marine environmental project with the overall aim of ensuring the wise and sustainable use of southern Africa’s marine linefish resources.

It involves the voluntary cooperation of conservation-conscious anglers (i.e. anglers who voluntarily tag and release fish they catch) and the marine angling public at large who 24 responsible traveller

Marine Dynamics Academy snorkelling at De Kelders

report the majority of the recaptures (i.e. a fish that is recaught with a tag in it).’ Tagging is an important technique that fishery biologists use to study individual aquatic animals (e.g. fish) or populations.

This tagging helps with the following: 1- Stock identification -determining whether stocks or sub-populations are connected and are being utilized for sport or commercial fisheries 2- Migrations - figuring out the path and distance of migration, rate of movement, and homing tendencies of a particular species 3- Behaviour - identifying factors that limit abundance such as habitat selection and intraand inter-species interactions 4- Age - validating the age of fish, particularly for aging methods (e.g. counting growth rings on a scale) and determining growth rates

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Marine Dynamics Academy measuring...

...and then tagging a shark

A Marine Dynamics Intern fishing

5- Mortality rates - following the effects of natural and fishing mortality on a fish population (More info at: http://www.oritag.org.za) “Shark tagging is a massively important project because it allows us to collect a lot of data about many animals in the area. It’s also a fantastic opportunity for our interns to learn more about fishing and shark handling in general, which they can use to enhance their own career prospects.

During July the team has caught a total of 9 benthic sharks, including Leopard Catsharks and Dark Shysharks. A number of 6 recaptures of which 2 were tagged previously by our intern team. For July the team tagged a 54 cm male Leopard Catshark. All data has been captured and sent to ORI TAG South Africa.”

– Ettiene Roets, Technical Lead, Marine Dynamics Academy

Estuary Monitoring The team has recently started salinity monitoring of the Uilenkraalsmond Estuary. A consistent monitoring programme helps in assessing the health of this important system and is essential to our understanding of the important role wetlands play in the ecosystem.

Dyer Island Cruise’s daily monitoring since 2000 has noted the presence of humpback dolphins when the estuary is open. The team hopes to support the estuary bird counts and look at various impacts and connections with marine species that are affected by this estuary.

The Dyer Island Conservation Trust invested in a YSI that measures salinity. This information will play an important role in the management of the estuary by CapeNature and the Overstrand Municipality. responsible traveller 25

CONSERVATION PROFILE

3D Photogrammetry Research through Virtual Reality

by David ‘Ed’ Edwards, Marine Dynamics Academy... shortened version of original article that you can link to HERE How do you create an exact digital replica of a real creature? That’s a broad version of the question asked of our Scientific Internship students, via our experimental technologies module. The answer is 3D photogrammetry.

Stereoscopic Photogrammetry (the use of photographs to take measurements) has seen frequent use in ecological research. Marine Dynamics Academy’s own Toby Rogers’ Master’s Thesis (which can be enjoyed for free at ResearchGate) focused on its use.

By comparison, 3D photogrammetry (the use of photographs to generate digital 3D models) is still somewhat in its infancy, likely due to the numerous technical considerations. It is however, seeing increased application in the video game and visual effects industries, as an alternative to artists creating digital assets from scratch. We do believe the science has educational and outreach potential, within the context of marine research and conservation. Through our Scientific Internship, we have started to experiment with possible pipelines and applications.

Thus far, we have performed image collection for photogrammetry tests on two subjects: A Smooth-hound shark and a great white shark.

Neither animal had been killed for this express purpose. While the great white sharks’ demise came under suspicious circumstances (believed to be a fishing target, an illegal practice in South Africa), the Smooth-hound was commercially fished.

Members of the Marine Volunteers program assisted with some of the photograph collection on both. The initial results were positive.

We were able to generate highly detailed digital reconstructions of each animal from approximately eight hundred photos on each.

Our next test subject was a deceased Common Dolphin which was to later be dissected. As part of our Scientific Internship, our first interns assisted with this project. I emphasised then, as I do now, that these are the earliest stages of 3D Photogrammetry’s use at the Marine Dynamics Academy. This is all about testing different approaches, seeing what works and what doesn’t. This will allow us to gradually build a reliable pipeline from which future research can be undertaken.

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We want as many photos as possible and ideally, with incremental steps between positions. The software we use is going to look for patterns across the surface of the subject and use those to calculate where the various photographs match up. Therefore, the more photographs we have that share areas of the subject with each other, the easier this will be for the software.

This photograph collection process was developed with Richard Harper of Staffordshire University, a specialist in visual media sciences.

Once my demonstration was completed, the interns were left to capture the rest of the photographs themselves. This might seem trial by fire, but we strongly believe in learning by doing when it comes to training. They’d taken notes, demonstrated a strong understanding of the theory and were more than capable of doing what was needed.

A little under seven hundred and fifty photographs later, we had our materials.

The software we use for reconstructing a 3D model from these images, is Reality Capture.

Alternatives on the market do exist such as Agisoft’s Photoscan, but for our use of photogrammetry, we’ve found Reality Capture to be by far the superior product.

The photos taken during our shoot are imported directly into the software, running on a 64-bit Windows machine boasting 48GB RAM, duel Intel Xeon X5680 and Nvidia Quadro K4000. Such an amount of RAM might sound excessive but when it comes to 3D photogrammetry, you want as much juice as you can get.

Once the software completed processing the images, it provides us a series of components.

Think of components as essentially being groups of images that the software has automatically been able to align and thus, produce a rough visualisation from. Best case scenario would be that we’ve taken so many images at the correct angles, that the program is able to create a single component comprising every photograph our interns have taken.

We address any mismatches of photographs through the use of control points. These are markers that we use to identify an area on the surface of the object, which though seen in two photographs, hasn’t been unified into a single

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Interns capturing dolphin images

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CONSERVATION PROFILE component. By selecting photographs that despite being in separate components, we know share a degree of surface area, we’re basically telling Reality Capture “Hey, these two are looking at the same thing”, which it can then use to refine its reconstruction of the subject.

What’s really important, is that we target these control points on images which are in separate components. This will help the program stitch together images which it hasn’t been able to automatically. It can be time consuming, but by being careful and considered in which areas we use as control points, the process gradually speeds up.

This demonstrates the importance of setting up control points across components, helping Reality Capture identify where photographs stick together. With those control points added, we process again, and Reality Capture gives us a new reconstruction. What’s really useful, is that it works from the existing components rather having to start from scratch every time.

A few hours later, I’ve stitched together the vast majority of components and am happy with the rough reconstruction. If this was to be used in a high-quality rendering such as video or Virtual Reality demonstration, I’d likely spend the time getting in every last photograph I possibly could.

Since the purpose of this is to essentially test some of the practices and get a rough visualisation together, I’m happy to move forward. I render the reconstruction at a normal level of detail, rather than high which would take significantly longer. The result is a flat colour atop our 3D model, meaning we get to see all the small details and surface variations that the software was able to pick up.

The results are quite staggering: Scratches, wear and tear on the subject and surface variations.

Photogrammetry gives us an incredible amount of detail to scrutinise. Much of this would be difficult to see even in the field, as the colour, specularity (how shiny it is) and other elements can make it difficult to perceive underlying, three dimensional details.

For the most part, our interns have captured enough photographs to produce an accurate, impressive reconstruction of a Common dolphin.

We do have further images of the beak, many of which were given manual control points but nevertheless, there just isn’t enough data for the program to produce a good reconstruction. But that’s the whole point of the process at this stage – see what works, see what doesn’t and improve accordingly.

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We then overlay the actual colour captured by the photographs, onto the newly rendered 3D reconstruction. Adding the texture just takes the whole thing to another level. This was once a living, breathing creature that we now have (for the most part), a physically accurate, photo realistic digital recreation of.

We can view it from various angles and but for the aforementioned areas where there simply weren’t enough photos taken, it looks pretty great. As far as missing photographs are concerned, it’s really the area around the beak and under the head which suffer the most. Areas which protrude from the main form are always tricky because ideally, we need to be getting the camera right up close to some of those difficult to reach spaces. But again, the whole point of this exercise was to identify such problems, so we can begin working on the best solutions.

Clearly, there are lessons to be learned and improvements to be made to our process, but as a practical exercise this has been a great way to introduce Marine Dynamics Academy interns to 3D photogrammetry. Our learning materials will be updated with greater clarity and emphasis given to some of the technical considerations, before reconstructing our next subject.

What’s the future of 3D photogrammetry at Marine Dynamics Academy? At present, our focus is purely on refining our processes for data capture. Defining clear rules and approaches will ensure we’re able to capture all we needed efficiently.

However, we have also begun making initial steps into potential research projects. I’m currently working on a Virtual Reality solution with Richard Harper and Tom Vine of Staffordshire University, that could potentially provide scientists with a suite of research tools. These are aimed at allowing greater flexibility in data collection, than is possible in a live environment.

Click HERE for more info on scientific achievements... and the websites below for more information. www.sharkwatchsa.com www.whalewatchsa.com www.dict.org.za www.marinedynamics.org/ academy

CONSERVATION PROFILE From top to bottom: top- some of the images captured by the interns; middle- Rendering of the image using control points; bottom - Final 3D rendering of the reconstructed dolphin

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HOTEL VERDE

SUSTAINABILITY

Key differentials for enhancing guest experience

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I

SUSTAINABILITY

nternational tourism continues to show significant growth worldwide and as a result the hospitality industry is becoming highly competitive with the focus shifting from hotel design and technology to experience-based differentials and offerings that make a hotel stand out and capture the guests’ attention.

Having an edge or niche offering also helps, as in the case of Hotel Verde Cape Town, Africa’s Greenest hotel, whose green innovations are intriguing to visitors the world over. General Manager Lindy Meiring says, “The growth of tourism is a reminder to the industry to enhance the capacity to develop and manage tourism in a sustainable way, creating smart destinations with innovative tools to engage with your guests. This is also important to us with regard to our sustainable practices - we believe that our hotel should be a point of greater learning and involvement not only for our guests, but for all.”

Guests are encouraged to get involved through many interfaces within the operation of the hotel. The gym, for example, is home to 3 different pieces of energy generating equipment, namely a bicycle, a recumbent bicycle and an elliptical machine which generate power whilst you exercise. Fun educational signage demonstrates how long one’s gym efforts will sustain some of your daily uses of electrical equipment.

Alternatively, guests can take a stroll or a jog around the eco-trail that is set within an indigenous garden and eco-pool – the pool considers the environment by circulating the water through a living ecosystem of aquatic plants and as a result, the water is perfectly clean, chemical free and soft on the skin – better for guests and the environment. Avid bird watchers can enjoy the local bird life and glimpse the bee hives abuzz with worker bees making the honey that is served in the hotel.

Hotel Verde’s in-house restaurant, Nvovu, hosts ‘earth hour’ once a week to the delight of guests who can enjoy a solar-lit meal. Every Wednesday from 18h30, all non-essential lights and appliances are switched off for a few hours in the evening, creating a unique dining experience. Even the water you drink is filtered on-site and served in recycled glass bottles – and should guests decide not to make use of a glass and ice for their bottled beverage they receive a R2 discount; this in turn creates awareness and reward for choosing to assist in the regions water-saving efforts.

Verdinos are Hotel Verde’s in-house currency that rewards guests for making green choices and can be used against your bill. One Verdino is equivalent to R5 and can be collected at reception on check out.

Verdinos can be earned for example by re-using towels, taking the stairs instead of the elevator, separating wasted correctly in separation bins and choosing not to use air conditioning or the additional set of pillows provided.

As guests leave they are encouraged to ‘lighten their load’ by leaving unwanted items from their luggage at the vintage suitcase placed at reception, which is then donated to charity. Meiring adds, “Travel these days is more about creating memorable experiences for our guests than ever before, to offer personal touches and warmth of hospitality to give them reasons to come back, again and again and again.”

www.hotelverde.com responsible traveller 31

What’s news...

New ranger accommodation for iSimangaliso Field rangers and environmental monitors play a vital role in the protection of fauna and flora within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World Heritage Site. As our eyes, ears and boots on the ground they represent the thin green frontline against poachers and other threats to our natural resources. It can be a difficult and challenging way to live, remote from other people, walking long distances each day and occasionally at night too, in all weather conditions and constantly facing the possibility of encounters with dangerous game, or human intruders.

As part of our infrastructure development and refurbishment plans, iSimangaliso has invested over R35 million to provide a total of 18 new field ranger camps throughout the Park, from the far north at Black Rock to the south near the Futululu Forest section. These units are a great improvement upon outdated facilities that they

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have occupied in the past. All camps are built using the most eco-friendly solutions available such as rainwater collection tanks, LED lighting, solar electricity and solar boreholes in areas where water is scarce.

Says iSimangaliso Park Operations Director, Sizo Sibiya: “We value the essential role played by field rangers in our Park and are very pleased to offer these new living quarters to our conservation colleagues as an investment in our human capital. It is a hard but invaluably rewarding training ground for these men and women, some of whom will rise through the ranks to take our places as leaders of conservation agencies in the future. We hope that these facilities provide a comfortable base for them as they patrol our Park and maintain law and order.” •

www.isimangaliso.com

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HERMANUS • CLIFF PATH WITH FYNARTS SCULPTURES & MODEL SOLAR SYSTEM • FERNKLOOF NATURE RESERVE & HIKING TRAILS • GROTTO & HAWSTON BLUE FLAG BEACHES • HERMANUS WINE ROUTE • KAYAK, SURF, WIND-SURF, KITE-BOARD • MOUNTAIN BIKE ROUTES

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HANGKLIP KLEINMOND TOURISM + (27) 28 271 5657

www.kleinmondtourism.co.za

HERMANUS TOURISM

+ (27) 28 312 2629

www.hermanustourism.info

STANFORD TOURISM

+ (27) 28 341 0340

www.stanfordinfo.co.za

GANSBAAI TOURISM

+ (27) 28 384 1439

www.gansbaaiinfo.com

CAPE WHALE COAST

tourism@overstrand.gov.za

www.whalecoast.info

Three Tree Hill...

introduces Burchell’s Family Cottage

W

ith growing numbers of families wishing to enjoy the beautiful natural environment of the Drakensberg foothills, Three Tree Hill has added a third family cottage to their exclusive portfolio.

This two-bedroomed cottage has been designed to capture the spectacular view of Spioenkop Game Reserve and Mountain, embracing nature and transporting guests through time with a naturalist/explorer theme.

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In 1811 William John Burchell set off on a 4-year, 7000-km journey of scientific exploration, starting from Cape Town. When he returned to Cape Town in April 1815, he had amassed 63 000 specimens and 500 drawings.

A couple of the more obvious of the species bearing his name are the zebra (Equus quagga burchellii) and coucal (Centropus burchellii).

Less common ones include Burchell’s sand lizard (Pedioplanis burchelli), Burchell’s redfin (Pseudobarbus burchelli), a critically endangered freshwater fish, two butterflies – Burchell’s Yellow (Colotis subfasciatus) and Burchell’s Brown (Pseudonympha hippia) – and Burchell’s rhinoceros (Rhinoceros simus, now Ceratotherium simum), better known commonly as the white or square-lipped rhinoceros.

In keeping with William John Burchell’s interest in natural history, and thereby environment, this ‘eco-cottage’ has been designed to have minimal environmental impact using a ‘touch the earth lightly’ concept. A thin concrete slab (50mm) supported below by polystyrene blocks set on a steel frame make the base structure very light and thermally efficient. The building itself is made of a very light steel frame clad in chromadek, again with super-efficient insulation in the walls and ceiling. Water saving devices are used throughout. Hot water comes from two high pressure solar collectors, each is heated by 16 evacuated tubes.

Custom-made furniture, that has been locally crafted with reclaimed cyprus, oak and cedar wood, complements the restored pieces, such as a beautiful old cupboard with an interesting story… and the brass light fittings which were salvaged from a shipwreck, off the coast of Natal. In addition to this only South African designed and crafted fabrics have been used for the soft furnishings and the art on the walls include canvas replicas of his immaculate drawings, hand-embroidered flower pressings, framed butterfly art and a printed glass map detailing his epic journey.

This cottage has two en-suite bedrooms, with the children’s room able to sleep four comfortably. Games, story books, toys and paraben-free children’s toiletries make this a paradise for families.

So what makes Three Tree Hill so special?

In order for tourism to be both responsible and sustainable, it must have a positive impact on our local community, beyond simply providing employment. Says Cheryl Blackburn, “Over the responsible traveller 35

past decade Three Tree Hill has implemented numerous community and conservation initiatives, and our vision is to magnify these programmes. And in order to facilitate this project expansion we are implementing a Community and Conservation levy effective from 01 October 2018”.

From an employment perspective, Three Tree Hill employs local Zulu staff from the nearby Hambrook Village, 8km down the road. Most have no previous work experience or formal education, but their great personalities and honest enthusiasm have made training an absolute pleasure. Over the years they have acquired extensive training and skills development through the lodge, with ongoing workshops that inform the staff on current events, technologies and service trends.

The lodge encourages open and honest communication through regular meetings, and

where input on various operational issues and suggestions on how to assist the community with upliftment projects is welcomed. Staff are treated well and fairly, and work well together as a team – annual staff appraisals assist the management team in channeling training programmes and team building sessions. This is evident when you are greeted by genuinely friendly, helpful staff.

Three Trees is a certified member of Fair Trade Tourism. Fair Trade certification is based on adherence to specific criteria’s including fair wages and working conditions, fair distribution of benefits, ethical business practice, and respect for human rights, culture and the environment. The certification covering these criteria was chosen on a voluntary basis that is available to providers of tourist accommodation, activities and attractions. •

www.threetreehill.co.za

The story behind the cupboard…

Whilst restoring the beautiful cupboard, an old piece of a newspaper was found jammed between the shelving. There were three pages caked together with years of dust and water as the shelves had been cleaned. The papers were carefully parted, what dirt could be was removed and the investigation began. No exact year could be found, so the stories in the paper were investigated…

One piece of the paper reads: “A Steamer Ashore”. On the 26th May 1900 the SS Kakapo ran aground in fog, at Slangkop Point, Chapman´s Bay, South Africa. All were saved. She was declared a total loss and after WWI, her hull plating was used to keep sand off the railway lines and road. The SS Kakopo, a 665 ton schooner rigged steamship, wrecked herself on the peninsula’s Long Beach on the Atlantic coastline on 25 May 1900 - one of many ships to litter South Africa’s treacherous, rocky shores.

The deadly combination of storms, fog, strong ocean currents and inhospitable cliffs, rocks and reefs wreaked havoc with early seafarers (360 shipwrecks in Table Bay alone).

The SS Kakopo was on her way to Sydney from the United Kingdom with a cargo of coal when she ran aground on the Cape of Storms, having encountered a north-westerly gale that severely impaired the ship’s crew’s visibility with driving rain (typical winter conditions for Cape Town). Mistaking Chapman’s Peak for Cape Point, the ship ended up on the beach. No lives were lost and the crew could actually alight on the sand. But no amount of leveraging could get her back into the water.

Legend has it that the captain refused to leave the ship, so mortified was he at the mishap. Some say he lived onboard for as long as three years. The historical shipwreck rests closest to the Kommetjie side of Long Beach and many hikers walk the length of the beach to pass its remains.

The paper (and therefore the cupboard also) dates back to the 26th May 1900.

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Burchell’s master room (above) and (this pic) the view into the lounge from the deck

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Pics - Walk Japan

WALK JAPAN 38 responsible traveller

Basho Tour - people at a Temple responsible traveller 39

W

alk Japan, the pioneering operator of off-the-beatentrack tours of Japan, celebrated a significant 25th year milestone in 2017. And this year, in 2018, it launched in South Africa – with an introductory event to local travel media. As specialists in one country, Walk Japan provides meticulously planned and expertly led tours to immerse visitors in Japanese society, culture and history.

Over the preceding decades the company has developed a large range of tours delving into many areas of unexplored Japan and realised the potential of this otherwise largely overlooked market segment for travellers. In so doing it has created a successful and strong business that continues to set quality standards for tourism in Japan.

In 1992, Tom Stanley and Richard Irving, two academics at Hong Kong University specialising in Japan, established Walk Japan for people who not only like to walk, but to learn, understand and appreciate. With the ambition to introduce Japan in contexts that are informative, while making sense of sights and customs that often remain elusive to many visitors, the two founders pioneered one-ofa-kind walking tours for travellers to Japan, starting with what has now become ‘the’ iconic Nakasendo Way. Tom Stanley, Co-Founder, Walk Japan, describes the Nakasendo Way as his favourite tour, “The Nakasendo pleases and inspires me because it connects, in a crescendoing manner, ancient and old Japan with the magnificent transformation that occurred in the Edo period to make modern Japan. The story is wonderful and can be related in so many ways according to context, whether the highway itself or the developments of religion or craft industry. In addition, since I have been doing the trip for 25 years, there are layers and layers of personal stories connecting me to the people along the way.”

Walk Japan has since created many tours that explore the little-visited regions of this varied country, and is continuously researching the 40 responsible traveller

Temple on the Basho Tour

Views of Mt Fuji

Nakasendo Way Tour

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Matsushima Island on Basho Tour

far corners of Japan for new tours. These highlights include the launch of the Izu Geo Trail, unveiled to explore the Izu Peninsula one of the most unique geological areas on Earth, and the launch of the Oita Hot Spring Trail to explore the Oita Prefecture – Japan’s mecca for onsen hot springs.

The recently launched Inland Sea Odyssey and the Self­ Guided Basho Wayfarer, offer travellers even more original and intriguing ways to discover the ancient landscapes and beauty of Japan.

The Inland Sea Odyssey (10-day) is a fully­guided journey through Japan’s incredible Seto Inland 42 responsible traveller

Sea. This tour explores the region’s recent history including work by some of Japan’s greatest 20th and 21st Century architects, artists and film directors including Kenzo Tange, Kengo Kuma, Kusama Yayoi, Yukinori Yanagi, Akira Kurosawa and Yasujiro Ozu. Travellers also delve into the life of Isamu Noguchi, a Japanese­ American who led an extraordinarily full life, became one of the greatest sculptors of the 20th Century, and, in older age, found a home aside the Seto Inland Sea. Additionally, the Inland Sea region is a wealth of beautiful vistas, sunsets, and some of Japan’s greatest ancient landmarks such as the imposing Himeji Castle. There are also abundant

‘Walk Japan operates in a way that recognises the important role and responsibilities that businesses have in society...’

sleepy island communities and charming towns.

Added to this is some of the best modern art and architecture found anywhere in the world, delicious local cuisine, onsen hot spring baths and a spirit of revival led by an influx of younger Japanese attracted to this delightful but lesser explored region of Japan.

Walk Japan’s Inland Sea Odyssey is a leisurely Level 2 walk and loosely follows the travels of the late American­born author Donald Richie, one of the greatest observers of modern Japan, whose book The Inland Sea relates his meandering journey east to west through the Inland Sea, from Himeji to the shrine at Miyajima that seemingly floats out over a bay. responsible traveller 43

The self-guided Basho Wayfarer (6­day) is an exploration of Japan’s northerly Tohoku region.

This tour was inspired by the acclaimed poet Matsuo Basho and his travelogue, Narrow Road to the Deep North.

Llewelyn Thomas, Managing Director, Walk Japan says this about the Basho tour…“I’m a history fan and I love the multiple historical layers to the tour. We’re following a literary hero in Basho, but Basho was also following his own literary and historical heroes, and so while following his story, we get involved in theirs too, from both his perspective and ours. As a tour leader, bringing these threads together and communicating them to the participants effectively is an exciting challenge.”

Following in Basho’s footsteps from Sendai to Yamadera, walkers explore everything from historic temples to beautiful coastlines, through forests in remote countryside, to charming villages and traditional, local inns. And often authentic local cuisine is followed by onsen natural hot springs baths, where a luxurious soak is the ideal way to end the day’s travels.

Included in the tour are visits to Matsushima Bay and its pine­laden islands, known for centuries as one of the three most scenic locations in Japan, the exquisite Hiraizumi temple complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; Yamadera, a temple dramatically poised on a cliff, and Hojin­no­Ie, a venerable thatched building and the only structure that remains to this day where Basho is known to have stayed.

Described by National Geographic as “one of the 200 Best Adventure Travel Companies on Earth”, Walk Japan leads the way in providing the most fulfilling and enjoyable tours available in Japan.

Walk Japan operates in a way that recognises the important role and responsibilities that businesses have in society. This includes being committed to and supportive of the communities in which the company operates, ensuring that its tours have a positive impact in these areas. Wherever possible Walk Japan uses and supports family-run, local businesses.

In 2016, Walk Japan’s CEO Paul Christie was made a Cool Japan Ambassador by the Japanese Government.

For more information on Walk Japan’s other tours, check out their website. •

www.walkjapan.com 44 responsible traveller

Walking through a forest on the Nakasendo Way Tour

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15 AMAZING COUNTRIES Countless amazing responsible tourism experiences

If you’re a traveller who’s concerned about the impacts of your travels, then Southern Africa is the destination for you. In the three years that the African Responsible Tourism Awards has been running, a whopping 46 awards have been

handed to tourism organisations from Southern African countries. Some have gone to shine on the global stage, with southern African countries having racked up 11 wins at the World Responsible Tourism Awards since 2015.

ANGOLA

BOTSWANA

DRC

LESOTHO

MADAGASCAR

MALAWI

MAURITIUS

MOZAMBIQUE

NAMIBIA

SEYCHELLES

SOUTH AFRICA

SWAZILAND

TANZANIA

ZAMBIA

ZIMBABWE

The Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern Africa (RETOSA) is a Southern African Development Community (SADC) body responsible for the development of tourism and regional destination marketing across the 15 Southern Africa countries. www.retosa.co.za

What’s news...

Wilderness Safaris Returns to Chikwenya, Zimbabwe Wilderness Safaris is thrilled to announce its return to Chikwenya in Zimbabwe’s majestic 1.7 million hectare (4.2 million acre) Mana Pools National Park. The elegant new Chikwenya Camp, situated at the confluence of the Sapi and Zambezi Rivers on the eastern boundary of the Park, will be opening for guests on 1 October 2018.

“Wilderness last operated Chikwenya in 2006 and we are thrilled to be back. In this way, we not only demonstrate our unwavering commitment to driving authentic and sustainable ecotourism in Zimbabwe, but can reveal the wonders of this extraordinary wilderness area to our guests”, said Keith Vincent, Wilderness Safaris CEO. “Our Chikwenya site is one of the most beautiful places for a camp in southern Africa and we can’t wait to introduce the new camp to our guests, even if it’s just for a short period of time before the end of the season on 15 November 2018”.

Overlooking the Zambezi River and the spectacular Rift Valley escarpment in the distance, Chikwenya will open as a six-tented camp. The canvas tents are erected on low wooden decks and pine walkways link them to the raised main area. A lounge, dining and bar area offer a place of hospitality and relaxation, and a pool and deck and fire place offer alternate spaces to enjoy the scenery and passing wildlife.

The camp is situated on a private concession, offering guests exclusive access to the lower reaches and mouth of the Sapi River as well as Chikwenya Island. The varied habitat, from verdant riverine forest to floodplain grasslands, attracts a range of wildlife in considerable numbers. Key mammals seen include buffalo, elephant, kudu, zebra, waterbuck, hippo, lion, wild dog, leopard and occasionally nyala, while species such as black-throated wattle-eye, red-necked falcon, eastern nicator, Narina trogon and Livingstone flycatcher make this a birder’s paradise.

All safari activities at Chikwenya will be led by highly skilled guides, and include interpretive day and night game drives, guided nature walks, boating and catch-and-release fishing (canoeing will be available for the 2019 season, which will run from 1 April to 15 November).

“With Chikwenya back in our fold, we are truly able to offer our guests a multitude of incredible safari options in Zimbabwe’s best wilderness concessions. Our life-changing journeys are all about Purpose, ultimately ensuring that authentic and sustainable ecotourism continues to make a positive contribution to the conservation of Zimbabwe’s wilderness and wildlife and the empowerment of its people”, Keith concluded. •

www.wilderness-safaris.com

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Into the Wild

...the Maputo Special Reserve words -Tessa Buhrmann pics - Jacques Marais / Peace Parks

Elephant in the Maputo Special Reserve

I

t’s a place where wild elephants roam, where ocean giants frolic and where loggerhead turtles haul themselves onto the beach to lay their eggs. It’s also the place where, on a pristine stretch of beach, a barefoot luxury lodge lays nestled within the coastal forest… a place where community and conservation are deeply embedded within its DNA.

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This very special wild place is the Maputo Special Reserve (MSR), and the equally special lodge is Anvil Bay Chemucane. Paul Bell, one of the trustees of the lodge, always dreamt of establishing a community run beach camp on the exact spot in Mozambique where he had camped with his family for 50-something years, So it’s not surprising has a deep connection with both the land and her people.

The MSR is located in southern Mozambique and has a spectacular 1040 km² of incredible biodiversity found across its nine distinct biospheres – it is part of one of the world’s 36 biologically richest and most endangered terrestrial eco-regions. With its lakes, wetlands, mangrove swamps, sand dunes and coastal dune forests, as well as savanna grasslands, coastal forests, rocky shores and beaches the MSR supports an exceptionally high number of endemic species of fauna and flora.

The deep sandy roads and spectacular scenery of the MSR make the getting to Anvil Bay Chemucane part of the adventure. But it’s a lot easier than it used to be, thanks to the new tar road that now links the Kosi Bay border post and Maputo – well it will when the fabulous new Maputo-Catembe Bridge is finally completed (completion was scheduled for June 2018, but it has been delayed, some say indefinitely). Access to the MSR is via either the southern Gala Gate or the main Futi Gate – where non 4X4 vehicles are parked if a road transfer is arranged.

The drive through the MSR to Anvil Bay takes about two hours, but the spectacular scenery and game viewing make it part of the experience. The most abundant species are hippo, reedbuck, elephant, crocodile, red duiker, blue wildebeest and zebra, while the giraffe, nyala, kudu, bushbuck and waterbuck populations are growing.

Anvil Bay Chemucane is a low impact beach and bush destination where miles of untouched beach are fringed with coastal forest, and where beyond the sand dunes are the lakes, wetlands, forests and grasslands of the MSR. This was made possible by a landmark decision by the Mozambique Government to grant the Chemucane Community an ecotourism concession in the MSR. A joint venture was formed between the Chemucane Community and the Bell Foundation (a philanthropic trust established for the benefit of the community) and with responsible traveller 49

funding from the World Bank and the Bell and Ford Foundations construction of Anvil Bay camp began. This created many benefits for the local community, from the purchase of local materials, produce and services skills transfer, hospitality training as well as employment.

In addition to this the community benefits financially from their share of the profits while concession fees support conservation efforts in the Reserve.

“A founding commitment of the project” says Paul Bell, “is to develop local staff to manage the lodge in the future. A rising star of this program is Jonito Timbane, Anvil Bay trainee manager. Jonito who is a member of the local community started work as a teenage camp hand eight years before construction of the lodge had started. In the construction phase Jonito quickly learnt the details of the plumbing and electrical systems and eventually led the installation of these systems and today oversees the maintenance team for the lodge among his many duties. Jonito’s training continues through a mentorship program learning the processes of operations management, team leader development and HR needs.

The purpose of the Anvil Bay Chemucane tourism development is to provide opportunities for the communities involved while supporting conservation efforts in the park. With the majority of staff being members of the local community, and having worked through the building phase and made the transition to hospitality, their strong sense of camaraderie and commitment to the business is amazing” The MSR was originally established in the 1930s to protect Southern Africa’s last remaining coastal elephant population which roamed freely between here and Maputaland in northern KwaZulu-Natal. Fast forward past a civil war that decimated wildlife populations and the ‘protection fences’ of Tembe Elephant Park in KZN, and you have a wildlife area extending through three countries, Mozambique, South Africa and Swaziland – thanks to intervention by Peace Parks and the creation of the Lubombo Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA), of which the MSR is a part.

As part of developing the Lubombo TFCA, the governments of Mozambique and South Africa began a translocation programme to MSR in 2010. The translocations re-introduce species that were historically found in the area, thereby enabling the fast recovery and subsequent increase of the reserve’s wildlife populations.

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Anvil Bay beach

‘The purpose of Anvil Bay Chemucane tourism development is to provide opportunities for the communities involved while supporting conservation efforts in the park...’

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Earlier this year 50 nyala were released in the coastal forest around Anvil Bay, and it’s a treat seeing them around the tented camp.

A recent development has been the signing of a partnership agreement between the Transfrontier conservation group Peace Parks Foundation and Mozambique to support the management and development of the Maputo Special Reserve and Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve in the southern part of the country. The marine reserve component stretches across 678 square km and is the most important leatherback and loggerhead turtle nesting ground along the entire 2,800 km Mozambican coastline, with more than 1,000 turtles coming to nest on these shores every year. Together with the neighbouring iSimangaliso Wetland Park it forms Africa’s first marine transfrontier conservation area.

Dhow cruise at sunset on Lake Machai

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So what makes the MSR so special?

It’s that visitors can view elephants at one moment and humpback whales in the next – during the winter months the whales migrate from their summer feeding grounds close to the poles, to warmer water to breed. It’s quite an experience being out on the ocean in one of Anvil Bay’s fishing kayaks when a 40-ton acrobatic Humpback Whale breaches a mere 50 meters or so away! Dolphins and marine turtles, leatherback and loggerhead, as well as the occasional whale shark are found in the ocean.

And during the summer months, generally from November to the end of February, one has the opportunity to witness the extreme effort and determination of Giant Leatherback and Loggerhead turtles as they come ashore to lay their eggs in carefully prepared nests, often on

the exact beach that they themselves hatched – some right near the beach access points of the tented suites. All precautions have been taken at Anvil Bay not to disturb the turtle laying process – there are no permanent structures on the beach and no lights facing the beach that could distract the hatchlings from making their way to the ocean.

The oceans of Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve offer a diverse marine life that can easily be see found when snorkeling the shallow coral reef off Anvil Bay – and these Indian Ocean waters are relatively warm, even during the winter months. But if they’re still a little chilly for you, Anvil Bay has an extensive selection of wetsuits you can choose from.

Anvil Bay also offers guided nature walks (depending on the whereabouts of the

elephants) along the beach, over the dunes and through the coastal forest offering a great opportunity for learn more about the flora and fauna of the Reserve.

And if you thought that was enough, you’re wrong. You can enjoy spectacular sunsets from the deck on Lake Machai – binoculars are a must to look out for elephants frolicking in the water across the lake as well as a variety of birdlife (the MSR supports a remarkable diversity of bird life, with about 350 species recorded).

Anvil Bay Chemucane and the Maputo Special Reserve is one of southern Africa’s great success stories, celebrating the relationship between community and biodiversity, with conservation at its core. •

www.anvilbay.com

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

Comic Book gets the RHINO CONSERVATION message across

Vietnam is the worlds largest recipient of illegal rhino horn from South Africa. To reduce rhino horn consumption and therefore demand, Wilderness Foundation Africa is working with school-going Vietnamese youngsters to create a generation of ambassadors who will grow up to be in a position to influence their peers, parents and families to reduce and ultimately stop the demand for rhino horn.

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Building on the story and campaign developed with the expertise of Boomtown in 2015, Rhino Ranger returns this month for a second instalment of the Rhino Ranger comic book. Rhino Ranger is a superhero character that was conceptualised and created to spread the message of the “Wild Rhino | Vietnam, be my Hero� campaign to the target audience in Vietnam. The story of Rhino Ranger continues as he travels to Vietnam to

CONSERVATION PROFILE discover why his mother was killed in South Africa. “Our first edition was incredibly popular, and our competition to become a Wild Rhino Youth Ambassador has been a huge success,” remarks Cheryl Reynolds, Relationship and Communications Manager of Wilderness Foundation Africa. “To target a younger audience, we are adding an activity book for those under 12.

It’s incredibly exciting to see the campaign grow and reach more young Vietnamese children and mould future generations.”

Using cultural insights, the personal experience of the Wilderness Foundation Africa team who have been to Vietnam on various occasions throughout the campaign, Boomtown was able to create a comic that was truly believable to its readership.

“The appearance of streets and the depiction of the culture need to be a true reflection of Vietnam,” remarks Andrew MacKenzie, Boomtown Managing Director, who has visited Vietnam with the Wilderness Foundation Africa when it first launched Rhino Ranger. “We need the youth that we engage with to buy into the campaign and become ambassadors for change. We cannot do that if they cannot connect with our content.”

The story for each edition is left open-ended to feed a hunger to know more and create word of mouth between children in the playground, in the classroom and at home.

Published alternate years, the comic is complimented by a competition to become a Wild Rhino Youth Ambassador and visit South Africa to experience rhino in their natural habitat. Junior children are chosen through a competition to draw a picture and write a poem, and senior children are tasked to write an essay on reducing the demand for rhino horn.

In addition to expanding the Rhino Ranger story and material, the campaign is extending to international schools in Hanoi. “We have already had a great reception from the international schools we are working within Ho Chi Minh City, and the team is excited to launch in Hanoi this September,” adds Reynolds.

The Wilderness Foundation Africa team will visit Vietnam in September 2018 to launch the third round of the Wild Rhino competition, and distribute the Rhino Ranger comic book and activity book, along with other marketing collateral to the participating schools in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. •

www.wildernessfoundation.co.za responsible traveller 55

SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE

EXPLORATION TRAVEL...

the world leader takes their responsibility seriously

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O

SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE

ver 125 years into its existence as the lifeline of northern Norway, exploration travel experts, Hurtigruten, have an ambitious goal – that of banning all unnecessary single-use plastics to become the world’s first plastic-free shipping company.

Their commitment goes beyond jumping on the recent anti-plastic revolution. For Hurtigruten this is a focus that has been top of mind for years, says CEO Daniel Skjeldam. “There is a lot of talk about the impact plastic has on our oceans, but it’s time to take action. By getting rid of single-use plastic on board all ships already by this summer, we will hopefully get others to follow.”

This means that by July 2018, plastic straws will be replaced by metal straws, stir pins will no longer be used – the same with plastic glasses wrapped in plastic, plastic cutlery, plastic bags, plastic lids on coffee cups, plastic toothpicks, plastic aprons, single-use packaging of butter and all other single-use plastic items that Hurtigruten’s 400,000 guests and 2,500 employees encounter on a day to day basis.

According to Hurtigruten, 15 metric tons of plastic ends in the world’s oceans every minute of the day.

If the trend continues, this number will double in the next 10 years, which means that by 2050, there will be more plastic than fish in the oceans.

Connecting Norway to the world Hurtigruten has its origins in the late 19th century when it was commissioned to operate an express boat service connecting the northern Norwegian towns of Trondheim to Hammerfest.

At the time, nobody could believe that any steamship would brave the “dark and stormy waters” without modern navigation aids, but take up the challenge they did, connecting the previously isolated coastal communities with the outside world.

Text supplied / pics Hartigruten Hurtigruten explores the roughest and most beautiful coastlines of the world, introducing guests to the unique nature, wildlife, people and culture of the areas it visits.

Today, that connection for locals remains, as Hurtigruten’s working ships sail to 34 ports daily, ferrying cargo, passengers and even cars. Travellers who understand that the star of the show is Norway’s epic natural beauty join the voyage from Bergen in the south, to Kirkenes in the north, and back again, winding their way through soul-stirring fjordscapes and past colourful fishing villages for whom the twice-daily Hurtigruten visit is a highlight. responsible traveller 57

SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE Sharing the Norwegian story With a focus on preserving the cultural vitality of Norway by revealing the Norwegian culture to guests, Hurtigruten offers its on-board Norwegian Coastal Kitchen featuring dishes from each of the areas through which it is sailing. Fresh, local produce is procured from small suppliers along the coast, from Aalan Gård’s brown cheese in the Lofoten Peninsula to lamb from Geiranger and King Crab from the Barents Sea. There’s even codfish ice-cream and cloudberry mousse for dessert.

A further consideration is the fact that a significant number of the crew grew up along the very same coast they sail past while they’re at work. This adds authenticity to the experience, says Øystein Knoph, Hurtigruten Global PR Manager.

“The Norwegian coast is where we come from.

We’re the original and have sailed the majestic fjords and made calls in cities and small remote ports for more than 125 years. We’re very proud of our heritage and are proud every day of the year to offer guests unprecedented experiences along what we consider to be the world’s most dramatic and beautiful coastline.”

We are proud of our community focus, says Skjeldam. “Hurtigruten strives to leave the destination in better shape and influences it in a positive way. This mantra of ‘Tread Lightly’ runs throughout the organisation and it was in fact our crew that has driven the ambitious target of eliminating single-use plastics by July 2018.”

Skjeldam explains that Hurtigruten understands it needs to set the standard for the global industry. “We’ve had to pressurise suppliers to come up with alternative solutions. Our crew has similarly looked at ways in which we can replace the use of plastic with other materials.”

Hurtigruten’s single-use plastic ban is not its only major environmental initiative, with the announcement that up to nine of its ships will be retrofitted to LNG and battery propulsion. “Over the next two years we will be converting these nine ships to LNG. With the polar exhibition ships, we have to continue with a hybrid LNGbattery propulsion system because of limited LNG resources in these areas,” says Skjeldam.

Further initiatives and projects already adopted include the banning of polluting and toxic Heavy Fuel Oil (HFO) in Arctic waters, reducing annual emissions by 540 tonnes of NOx and 18,000 tonnes of CO2, and recycling all paper, glass, cardboard and metal, among others.

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Thor Gunnarson runs a craft brewery called Lofotpils, which supplies Hurtigruten with what he calls ‘the taste of raw nature’

The Hurtigruten Foundation Hurtigruten operates in some of the most vulnerable areas in the world. This means that the expedition operator understands it has a special responsibility to protect these areas for the local population and future generations of explorers, Skjeldam says.

“We have been exploring the roughest and most beautiful coastlines of the world, introducing our guests to the unique nature, wildlife, people and culture of the areas we explore.

“We have always taken great pride in offering safe and responsible travel experiences and are committed to support the areas we visit. Part of this effort is the creation of The Hurtigruten Foundation, which has its goal ensuring that our guests of tomorrow can enjoy the same meaningful travel experiences as the guests of today.”

SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE

Tove Åland from Aalan Gård in the Lofoten Archipelago supplies Hurtigruten with cheese and freshly picked herbs

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SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE The Hurtigruten Coastal route is touted as the world’s most beautiful voyage.

The Hurtigruten Foundation raises awareness of opportunities and challenges in the areas Hurtigruten visits, and raises funds to enhance or reduce them. “We want to make sure our footprints are as gentle as possible, and our presence positive for the places we visit and their residents.”

South African-born Lewis Pugh was the first ambassador of the Hurtigruten Foundation. “Lewis Pugh has undertaken spectacular swims all around the world, including in the freezing cold waters of the North Pole and in Antarctica - all to create awareness about how important it is to safeguard the environment of these waters,” says Knopf.

“This makes Lewis Pugh and Hurtigruten Foundation a good match. He also gives lectures on selected Hurtigruten expedition voyages and 60 responsible traveller

represents Hurtigruten Foundation In various contexts.”

As the world leader in exploration travel, Hurtigruten puts great effort into enhancing the destinations to which it travels, strengthening its environmental initiatives, and running a responsible and sustainable operation.

“Traveling with us, you will always get lifeaffirming experiences in regions where nature, people and wildlife are unique. We take great pride in our commitment to preserve these natural wonders in all their beauty, so you will always experience the highest environmental awareness – on board and ashore.”

www.hurtigruten

‘As the world leader in exploration travel, Hurtigruten puts great effort into enhancing the destinations to which it travels, strengthening its environmental initiatives, and running a responsible and sustainable operations...’ responsible traveller 61

What’s news...

Introducing SALT the progressive new boutique hotel brand from the creators of LUX* Resorts & Hotels The last thing the world needs is yet another hotel brand! Paul Jones, the CEO of the Lux Collective describes SALT as a humanistic approach to hospitality targeting the culturally curious.

Mindful of the stressful lives led by people around the word SALT creates the opportunity for guests to shed their worries and open their hearts and minds to a transformational experience.

SALT is for the traveller who wants to participate in community life at a deeper level. SALT has created “Teach A Skill” to offer guests the chance to get out there and share their knowledge and talent to teach a new skill to a local. It’s all about broadened horizons and deeper understandings, at the same time make long lasting relationships.

Devoted to the wonder of all things local and sustainable, SALT will take guests to people - not just places. It will reveal to guests the beating heart of destinations and their communities and get them out there exploring it – the SALT way.

Outside the hotel, every guest will be equipped with the tools to get off the beaten path and behind the scenes. A bespoke guidebook written and photographed by locals, illustrated maps, a local SIM card and a choice of transport – bicycles or convertible comfort cars.

SALT’s first property will open in Mauritius on 1 November 2018 and will lay the foundation for future development across the Indian Ocean, Asia, Africa and the Middle East. It will put down roots in incredible and unpredictable destinations across the globe – urban, rural, iconic or obscure.

While every SALT hotel will encompass shared values and commitments to its guests, each will be one-off and true to its location.

Creating dynamic and transformational spaces from which to explore, SALT hotels are first and foremost a launch pad for guests to discover their surroundings in the most authentic way, but also a stylish and simple base to relax, escape and recharge in. The design of each hotel will take inspiration from local colour, shape and motif, to infuse the vitality of local culture into the interiors and give guests a true sense of place.

Love the local flavour..

Colourful Mauritius

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What’s news...

Recognizing the strong connections between people, plate and planet, and the fact that our food choices have a major impact on the health of the environment and our guests, SALT is committed towards Good, Clean and Fair food. SALT adheres to Slow Food Travel promoting ecotourism and providing all our guests a culinary journey, full of stories, traditions, flavours, and craftsmanship.

It is palpable, rather than preached, that SALT has respect for an ethical, environmentally friendly way of living, working and being. The team has thought long and hard about what they care about and had a go at rewriting the rules. Where possible, SALT hotels get their needs from local sources; from the local soundtracks and musicians playing live, to the food, furniture, fabrics and toiletries. They prioritise fair trade, organic, non-toxic, and limit energy, waste and emissions. Compost or recycling are the chosen sustainable initiatives.

Another consciously chosen initiative to make a difference is no buffets or single-use plastics. Every SALT will have its own farm and guests will be treated to delicious menus designed around what’s in season and nothing more, while the pantries will be stocked exclusively with homemade products. SALT makes a commitment from the start to always think deeply about how to challenge traditional ways of hosting guests at their hotels. And this is just the start of the story.

Every SALT hotel will have a wellness philosophy that brings guests together for swim and run clubs, yoga on the SALT Farm, trekking and other slow sport initiatives plus location-inspired activities. At SALT EQUILIBRIUM, guests can re-energise in the signature salt room and indulge in salt-based remedies and spa treatments.

SALT’s visionary and CEO of The Lux Collective, Paul Jones, commented, “SALT was born from a demand for a humanistic approach to hospitality – hotels that cater to an ever-growing audience of modern explorers and mindful travellers who travel to satisfy their curiosity and challenge their perception of the world. They want to connect with people - not just places - and they genuinely want to give something back. We call them Cultural Purists. In the process they open up to the potential of undergoing a healing transformation from the negative aspects of the world we live in.

And in creating SALT, I believe we can help facilitate the connections and create meaningful experiences for our guests and the communities in which we operate. The possibilities for contribution and collaboration are endless, and I think this is just the beginning of something very special indeed.” •

www.saltresorts.com Farming it, not flying it...

Love learning...

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Hilton Seychelles SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE

T

he Seychelles is often hailed as one of the most idyllic tourist destinations in the world, with beautiful sandy beaches and a huge variety of flora and fauna. But this beautiful destination faces significant challenges when it comes to protecting its fragile ecosystem.

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SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE Hilton’s Seychelles properties recently held an event to raise awareness of the importance of protecting these beautiful, remote islands and their natural environment. The event, part of Hilton’s annual Global Week of Service initiative, aimed to inspire tourists and local residents to consider how they can help protect the environment.

Hilton has introduced a number of innovative measures in the Seychelles which will help the long-term sustainability of tourism on the islands. These include:

Coral reef preservation: • Implementing coral reef nurseries at Hilton Northolme Resort & Spa and DoubleTree

by Hilton Allamanda to help the coral reef recover from major eco-disasters, including the 2004 tsunami, the global bleaching event in 2016 and ongoing challenges of climate change • The hotels are heavily invested in supporting the marine ecosystem’s wellbeing and partner with the Marine Conservation Society and local Environment schools to continue finding innovative ways to tackle these important issues.

Sustainable sourcing: • The Hilton Seychelles cluster, led by Hilton Northolme Resort & Spa, recently launched its own soap recycling initiative, becoming the first hotels to recycle soap on the islands with supplier Diversey. The hotels works closely with The President’s Village, an organisation that supports youth from difficult backgrounds, to train young people to recycle the soap, which is then supplied to local young people.

• The hotel also boasts organic vegetable farms on the grounds of Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa and at Hilton Northolme.

• The hotel has been partnering with IFAD on sustainable agricultural projects to ensure local produce that comes from inclusive and environmentally conscious practices.

Through the organic gardens and the IFAD partnerships, the hotels are able to source over 80% of their vegetables locally, with an ambition to increase this in future.

• All food waste also goes through a grinding process which produces fertilizer used in the organic farm and the native plant nursery.

Plastic reduction and water use: • As island properties, Hilton’s Seychelles hotels face a significant waste management challenge. Previously, Hilton Seychelles Labriz had to ship water in from the responsible traveller 65

SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE

• •

mainland, sending empty bottles to the mainland for recycling. To combat the issue, the hotel installed its own water bottling plant on Mount Douban, the largest peak on Silhouette Island.

Water is filtered and placed in reusable glass bottles. Through the new water plant, the hotel team is hoping to help completely eradicate single-use plastic from the island.

Proof of this commitment is the fact that DoubleTree by Hilton Allamanda has recycled 30,000 plastic bottles and cans so far this year.

Attention to water use is also very important to the properties, who have since opening been able to save around 5,700,000 cubic meters of water, approximately enough to fill 4,144 Olympic swimming pools.

Commitment to the preservation of Seychelles Heritage: • Hilton restored the original plantation house which was built by the Dauban family in 1860 and opened it to the general public as a Museum dedicated to the discovery of Seychelles though a series of maps dating back to the 1800’s.

Hilton’s annual Global Week of Service is a week-long celebration of the company’s year-round commitment to supporting the communities in which it operates. Hilton recently announced a robust new commitment to cut its environmental impact in half and double its investment in social impact by 2030.

www.hilton.com

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EXPLORE THE EXOTIC ISLANDS of the Seychelles

The Seychelles Islands has long been a favoured destination for adventure seekers and nature lovers and has even been used as a hideout by 17th Century pirates! A destination filled with action, wildlife and discovery you can most definitely find a new adventure everyday across MahĂŠ and the smaller islands.

Embark on an adventure of a lifetime with our 3 weekly flights.

Contact your local tour operator for your best holiday deal Air Seychelles South Africa Contact Centre on either 011 326 4440, 011 326 4443 or 011 326 4388 or email us on reservations@border-air.co.za The information above is correct at the time of printing. However, changes after publication might occur and will affect the accuracy of the content.

What’s news...

A new all-time record for whale sightings at De Hoop!

“Unbelievable whale sightings at De Hoop this year… over 1 116 whales spotted on just part of the De Hoop coastline... nearly three times the number of last year – really the best spot for whale watching in South Africa”, said William Stephens of De Hoop Collection.

He had just been notified by Jean Tresfon, a well-known Marine Conservation Photographer, that even with “all the bad news and negativity in the media, especially when it comes to the state of our marine resources”; he was thrilled “to share something rather more uplifting”.

Tresfon, together with whale scientist Chris Wilkinson had, early on Saturday morning lifted off from the Morning Star airfield into the crisp clear air - a perfect day weather-wise - to conduct an aerial whale survey for the Mammal Research Institute Whale Unit.

Pic: Jean Tresfon - Marine Conservation Photographer

Trefson reported that they encountered the southern right whales almost immediately, but it was when they reached the De Hoop Nature Reserve area that they were just blown away. “The absolute pinnacle was at the De Hoop Nature Reserve -from Skipskop Point to Lekkerwater- where we spotted an incredible record-breaking 1 116 whales, or 558 cow/calf

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pairs, highlighting the fact that Koppie Alleen is without question the most important nursery area for southern right whales on the South African coast.”

CapeNature who is co-funding the whale research this year highlights the importance of monitoring the demographic changes in the Southern Right Whale population. CEO Dr Razeena Omar says “As the winter season draws to a close it is an exciting time to see this kind of positive growth in conservation numbers.

The uninterrupted aerial survey database is critical to long-term efforts to assess the extent of reproductive patterns and species population dynamics.”

After nearly seven hours in the air they headed home. Tresfon later received a message from Els Vermeulen, head of the Whale Unit, advising him of the final numbers - 661 cow/calf pairs, plus 25 unaccompanied adults - a total of 1 347 southern right whales counted between Hawston and Witsands! Almost triple the amount of whales counted at nearly the same time – the first week of September - in the same area, in 2017. •

www.dehoopcollection.com

What’s news...

Endangered Wildlife Trust wins prestigious award for Endangered Species Conservation The Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) is extremely proud to announce that the EWT Vultures for Africa Programme Manager, Andre Botha, was recognised with a special award for Endangered Species Conservation at the prestigious Rhino Conservation Awards on Friday, 24 August 2018.

While the Rhino Conservation Awards were founded in 2011 to recognise significant role players in rhino conservation, the Special Award for Endangered Species Conservation was included to honour a person, team or entity working full-time in the field to combat poaching of other Endangered species.

Andre was nominated for his extensive work in the field of vulture conservation, having championed this cause through his work with the EWT since 2004.

His passion has always been for vultures, and his work has resulted in bringing the importance of vulture conservation to the international stage. Andre’s achievements to fight the poisoning and persecution of Africa’s vultures have been considerable at a time when these

birds are under heightened pressures across the continent. Vultures are amongst the most extinction-prone species in the world, and Andre has dedicated his career to saving these special birds from the many threats they face.

His achievements include implementing the first wing-tagging programme focused on southern African vultures in 2006, initiating International Vulture Awareness Day in 2009, which is now a global event and celebrated in 17 countries, establishing the IUCN Species Survival Commission’s Vulture Specialist Group, and Co-chairing this group since its inception to date.

Andre also developed the EWT’s Poisoning Intervention Training programme, which has been presented to more than 1,400 law enforcement staff, rangers, veterinarians and community members in six countries in southern and east Africa. He acts as overarching coordinator for the Vulture Multispecies Action Plan for African-Eurasian Vulture, which was formally adopted by all 128 range countries at the Conservation of Migratory Species of Wild Animals Convention of the Parties 12 in Manilla, Philippines in October 2017.

In a reflection of his continual dedication to his work, Andre was in the field when the awards were presented at a gala dinner in Johannesburg on Friday night. Upon hearing that he had won, Andre said: “I am indeed honoured by the award which, in essence, is recognition by my peers (fellow rangers and conservationists) for the work that I have been involved in over the last 15 years.

It certainly does serve as further motivation for me to not only continue working towards the conservation of Old World vultures and their habitats, but to also create a greater appreciation among humanity for these birds that are providing a critically important service to the benefit of other species, especially humans and the livestock that they depend on.”

Endangered species need champions to highlight their plight and garner support, and vultures have a true champion in Andre. •

www.ewt.org.za

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TRANSFORMATIONAL TRAVEL ...in India

I

f you would be happier skipping the crowds at the Taj Mahal to live as a local in rural Udaipur, you could be part of a new tribe of ‘transformational travellers’, a concept that is growing internationally, as individuals seek out more meaningful and mindful travel experiences.

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EXPERIENCES

Health and Fitness Travel defines mindfulness partly as “a meditative practice that encourages a heightened awareness of the present moment to increase attentiveness, disrupt negative thought patterns…”.

“There is no doubt that travel is the best way to learn about new cultures but also to learn about yourself. It has the power to make you to look at life in a very different way, long after your trip has ended,” says Carina Faulconer, Elite Travel Expert at Pentravel Tygervalley.

“In line with the trend in transformational travel, and really getting the most out of your time abroad, it is important to have a well-thoughtout itinerary, avoiding queues and rushing from point A to B. Local, informative guides are key, as is excellent fresh cuisine that you can wake up and look forward to every day.”

“Transformational travel really is about taking things at a slower pace and getting right to the heart of a destination, instead of ticking it off a bucket list,” adds Lieria Boshoff, Uniworld Boutique River Cruises’ Brand Manager in South Africa.

“River cruising has become synonymous with this type of travel, with smaller ships that effortlessly reach off-the-grid locations that larger passenger cruise ships and tour buses cannot. Personal transformation has always been inherent when it comes to countries like India, which is one of the key destinations for our ME to WE experience that are based on this concept.”

Ms. Boshoff suggests five easy transformational experiences to add to any India itinerary:

Farm-to-fork cuisine If you have ever heard of Delhi belly, you will know not to buy your food from just any street vendor. However, you can still enjoy worldclass cuisine made from fresh, locally-sourced ingredients if you are willing to venture off the grid.

Transformational experiences are typically enjoyed behind the scenes. Look for experiences that involve meeting the local Indian farmers who will teach you about the properties of herbs and spices; it is knowledge you can take back to your own kitchen at home.

Carefully curated experiences

Exploring the blue city of Jodhpur

Instead of making a beeline for the beaches of Goa or the capital, New Delhi, add one-of-akind Shantaram-inspired adventures in areas like Udaipur, where you can integrate with community members from the rural villages. responsible traveller 71

Exploring the blue city of Jodhpur

Pick up some Hindi with a few organised lessons and take part in a religious ceremony, such as a Puja, an intimate Hindu prayer ritual.

In India, volunteer experiences allow visitors to work alongside local residents on development projects in places like Aravelli.

Try all-Inclusive

Attention to detail

When your food, transport, activities and accommodation are pre-arranged, you can focus on immersing yourself in the culture, your surroundings and its people. Travel is also far less stressful when things run smoothly.

Instead of rushing from your bed to the breakfast table and onto a tour bus for the day, transformational travel encourages people to travel slowly and mindfully.

Seek out sustainability Transformational travel is more than just a buzzword, it is also about recognising travel as a force for change. Even aligning yourself with a travel company that takes the initiative to help offset your carbon footprint is a start.

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Make the most of your day with a sunrise yoga session overlooking the pink-hued Aravalli Mountain Range.

Instead of relying on virtual Instagram stories, enjoy a cup of steaming chai with the local Aravelli women and hear their stories first-hand and be present.

A local yoga experience Dining the local way

‘To travel is to learn and when your holiday experiences become part of you, that is when you feel a shift in your awareness...’

Whether you are in India or a European city such as France, it is important to see a country from different areas and perspectives, says Anneri Papenfus, Travel Advisor, Pentravel, Menlyn Park.

“I always say to my clients: to travel is to learn and when your holiday experiences become part of you, that is when you will truly feel a shift in your awareness.

Whether its river cruising or those behind-thescene tours that no one else knows about, or both, as long as you are not wasting time standing in queues, you are on the right track.” •

Words & pics supplied responsible traveller 73

CONSERVATION PROFILE

JOURNEYS WITH PURPOSE Conservation Expedition

An all-women South African-led conservation mission into Southern Africa kicked off this afternoon, bringing together 13 women from around the world. Led by Carla Geyser, a Durban adventurer, humanitarian and eco-warrior, the Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch expedition sees the crew travelling 9 000km across South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia.

Geyser and team members, Erin Dickson, Celokuhle “Smax” Biyela and Stephanie De Wit headed out in 4x4s from the Getaway Show at the Ticketpro Dome, Johanneburg amidst much excitement and well wishes. For the next 50 days, they will journey across four countries educating and empowering communities along the way about human-wildlife conflict, raising funds for conservation and meeting phenomenal women who either lead or are involved in extraordinary conservation projects at grassroots levels.

“It is clear that the essence of enabling real change in the world lies in the ability of groups of women to motivate and mobilise as many other

The team...

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individuals as possible, to align their goals, and to attract the attention of a global market,” explains Geyser, the founder of the NPO, Blue Sky Society Trust. “The women on this expedition represent different countries and backgrounds but we are united by a passion for wildlife conservation.

Together, we will educate women and girls from disadvantaged communities in the region and hopefully give them a reason to join the growing number of women from around the world who are leading the fight for conservation in Africa.”

Geyser will be joined by various team members, ranging in age from 19 to 71, on different legs of her journey. They include four Americans – wildlife biologist and conservation scientist, Jennifer Palmer; nurse and travel blogger, Emily Scott; camerawoman, Alize Jireh, who at 19 is the youngest crew member; and acclaimed business coach and conservationist, Tommi Wolfe – and nine South Africans namely Lungile Dimba, an education administrator at wildlife body WESSA in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands; Durban’s Erin Dickson, an on-air personality at East Coast Radio; Umzimkhulu’s Celokuhle “Smax” Biyela

CONSERVATION PROFILE who is aligned to the Blue Sky Society Trust; conservation supporters, Laura Thomas-Gilks and Tarren Benson both from Durban, Cape Town documentary-maker, Sam Suter; Pietermaritzburg photographer and eco-warrior, Stephanie De Wit; and Bronwyn Laing, a Durbanite and past Elephant Ignite crew member who now lives in Tanzania. Real estate business owner, 71-year old Joan Arnestad, from Hoedspruit, Limpopo has also signed up for the experience.

“A journey of this magnitude and purpose wouldn’t have been possible without the support of some of incredible individuals and companies,” adds Geyser. “I’d like to thank each and every one of the sponsors for helping my team and I make an impactful difference. I genuinely believe that if we receive more commitment from corporate South Africa, we can do great things to make our continent a better place for everyone – people and animals – who live here.”

Peter Eastwood who heads up The Tanglewood Foundation, a New Zealand environment advocacy and conservation group that has funded two expedition members, Lungile Dimba and Smax Biyela, says he fully supports Geyser’s vision of aligning values of education and awareness of the serious conservation issues facing our planet. Eastwood believes that

education is key to creating awareness about serious conservation issues which is why he has also sponsored the 30 000 educational books, The Wonderful Wildlife Activity Booklet. “We hope to make Carla’s expedition even more successful and effective. These booklets leave a lasting legacy of her expedition wherever she goes and are likely to each be read by many people,” says Eastwood, who also sponsored 20 000 educational booklets during Geyser’s Journeys with Purpose: Elephant Ignite expedition in 2016.

City Logistics has come on board to assist with transporting the boxes of educational books.

“This is critical to ensuring the sustainability of our natural heritage and with the recent death of the last Northern Rhino we cannot allow another species to become extinct,” explains Julia Peirson, Executive Director of City Logistics. “Currently 98 elephant are killed each day in Africa. We wish Carla and her team a very successful Journey with a Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch and for initiating such a remarkable project in order to protect our wildlife.”

Jonssons workwear have sponsored the crew some clothing while Melvill and Moon helped spruce up the lead expedition vehicle with new seat covers and a tyre cover. EEZI AWN’s Jess Stuhler says, “We have always tried to a line ourselves with people and companies that go out into communities to educated people of what impact urbanization is having on our environment and wildlife.” Stuhler’s team has sponsored a roof rack and rooftop tent for the main expedition vehicle as well as other accessories, while National Luna have given the crew a fridge for the journey.

Funds raised during the expedition will benefit four causes: Elephants Alive (South Africa), Rare and Endangered Species Trust (Namibia), Eco-Exist Project (Botswana) and the Soft Foot Alliance Trust (Zimbabwe). “The sad harsh reality is that we need to support these organisations because if the poaching carries on at this rate, there is a good chance that your children and grandchildren may never get to see a lot of our Big 5 in the wild,” explains Geyser.

This is Geyser’s second all-women conservation mission. In 2016, she led South Africa’s first allfemale team to Kenya, raising nearly R300 000 for various environment protection projects.

The Journeys with Purpose: Rise of the Matriarch team returns to South Africa on 28th October 2018.

...the wheels

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