Edition 4 - 2016

R E S P O N S I B L E

edition 4 – 2016

be the difference

Heroes of CONSERVATION & RESPONSIBLE TOURISM w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a

Comment Welcome to another edition of Responsible Traveller.

In this edition we continue our road tripping…

To say that I have loved compiling this edition would almost be an understatement. I am blown away by the wonderful stories of conservation and responsible tourism that are to be found throughout Africa...

From the people behind the success of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust to the conservation victories of luxury experiential travel company andBeyond. From going off the beaten track in Tanzania to my hubby and I continuing our #GreatCapeEscape ... where we go on safari in the fynbos at Grootbos Private Game Reserve, go exploring at the Gondwana Game Reserve near Mossel Bay and revel in the romance that is Kurland Hotel. Kwandwe Private Game Reserve shows us that conservation and community go hand-in-hand as does the beautiful Prana Lodge - both in the Eastern Cape. Once again fine wines, fabulous food and wonderful wildlife tell the stories of conservation initiatives and community upliftment. To catch part one of our epic #GreatCapeEscape be sure to click the link on pg 43.

As readers you will know that I love to travel and love exploring new destinations... but to me the privilege of travel isn’t just in the ‘being there’, it’s about experiencing the destination with all the senses. So the next time you travel, try seeing with ‘new’ eyes; listening to more than the obvious - closing your eyes and hearing what’s going on around you; talking to people - from those serving you, to those you meet on the street, opting for local food (even if it’s weird and unusual) and touching the hearts of others and being touched in return.

There are just SO many reasons to love travel... and so many more reasons to do it with care and consideration...

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

tessa

Magazine Information edition 4 - 2016 Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published bi-monthly

Cover Image: Lion cubs at sunset pic - KWANDWE PRIVATE GAME RESERVE Mark Greenwood (photographer)

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents Regulars: Comment

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Being a Responsible Traveller 06

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Travel Tips from the market place 64

Destinations & Places to Stay: DumaTau, Botswana 08 Road Tripping... #GreatCapeEscape - part 2

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Great White House 25

Grootbos Private Game Reserve

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Gondwana Game Reserve

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Kurland Hotel

34

Kwandwe Private Game Reserve

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Prana Lodge

40

The road less travelled... Ruaha 56

Adventures & Acivities:

Masakhane Township Tours... 44 Shik Shack community tours

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Conservation Profile: Conservation Heroes of Gansbaai 14

56

Celebrating 25 yrs of Conservation Victories with andBeyond 50

News: andBeyond Matetsi Private Game Reserve opens near Vic Falls

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Asilia recognised by Fair Trade Tourism

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Polo is changing the lives of rural youth one chukka at a time

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www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

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• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

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DumaTau, Botswana... elephants, luxury & a low carbon footprint

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bout a hundred elephants surrounded us, close enough to smell, almost close enough to touch. They were completely relaxed and so were we. It was our last thrill when we stayed at Wilderness Safaris DumaTau Camp in the Linyanti area of Botswana.

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words & pics - Roxanne Reid

Over two days with our guide Evans Keowetse we saw wild dogs, a leopard and lions. But it was the elephants that touched my heart, so peaceful in a land where hunters’ guns have been silenced.

We watched a group of them from the boat on the lagoon in front of the camp one afternoon.

Lured by the promise of grass and palm nuts, they were powering through the water to an island in the Linyanti Swamps. The menu on the camp side is mostly mopane and large feverberry trees and instinctively elephants seem to know that a varied diet is a good one.

One of them turned over a huge clump of grass, then another, with a determined kick to get at the more nutritious roots. ‘They also love palm nuts,’ said Evans. These golf-ball sized fruits take two years to mature and up to another two to fall. If the elephants get impatient they’ll shake the tree to make the nuts drop. Sometimes they don’t know their own strength and the whole tree will break.

Hippos were in the water too, just their little piggy eyes and ears peeking above the surface.

One of them played at being a submarine, coming towards us underwater, but Evans spotted the trick and gave it a wide berth.

There were fish-eagles, African jacanas and reed cormorants too, but no sighting more glorious than the camp in the soft golden light as the sun set behind us.

Because DUMATAU looks out over Osprey Lagoon, it’s from the water that you get the best view of the camp with its wooden decks and canvas roof peaks. We’d stopped to drink it in when we noticed an elephant paying a visit to our tent for a late afternoon snack on a large fever-berry. Aha! So that’s why the raised boardwalks around the camp dropped to the ground in a few places, then rose again just over an elephant’s body-width later. It was so elephants could move through the camp unobstructed. After all, it was their home long before the camp was built.

‘We sometimes find leopard and lion tracks in the camp too,’ said Evans – a reminder of why we weren’t allowed to walk around after dark without a guide.

©roxannereid.co.za

Usually guests have sundowners on the boat or a barge that travels at a more sedate pace and has comfy couches. We chose instead to dock and enjoy our drinks on the round floating deck in the lagoon, with its central fireplace and safari chairs in a circle. The deck isn’t anchored responsible traveller 09

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‘They’re investing in green technologies like solar power and above-ground water treatment to make sure nothing but unpolluted water goes back into the environment...’

©roxannereid.co.za responsible traveller 11

and the gentle movement of the water under the deck made us feel like jacanas on a giant water lily pad.

Next morning, Evans squeezed in one last game drive – a 90-minute detour to the airstrip where we were to catch our plane back to Maun.

An osprey perched on a tree and red-billed oxpeckers clung to a giraffe’s neck, munching on ticks. Then that triumph of the morning – a cluster of elephants browsing and moving through fairly thick bush.

We watched them in silence for a while before Evans said they were heading for a patch of water in the Linyanti Swamps not far away.

Would we like to go there to wait for them? Of course we would. Around 40 of them were already drinking at the water’s edge. Over the next half an hour, more and more joined them till about a hundred were around us. All were chilled, some passing so close to our vehicle that

impact on the environment and preserve the wilderness for future generations. They’re investing in green technologies like solar power and above-ground water treatment to make sure nothing but unpolluted water goes back into the environment.

Companies like WILDERNESS SAFARIS also employ and train staff from local communities, and support wildlife conservation projects. For instance, it has worked for the past 15 years on a Botswana Rhino Conservation Programme to move endangered black rhino from Zimbabwe and South Africa – where they’re at high risk of poaching – to create new breeding populations in Botswana. The relocated rhinos are monitored and protected around the clock.

No wonder Wilderness Safaris bagged the World Travel & Tourism Council 2016 Tourism for Tomorrow Award in the Environment category for this pioneering work. (If you’ve never heard of it, it’s like an Oscar for tourism.)

‘No wonder Wilderness Safaris bagged the World Travel & Tourism Council 2016 Tourism for Tomorrow award in the Environment category for this pioneering work...’ we could almost have reached out to pat their wrinkled hides. It was one of those special safari moments that live in your memory forever.

But there’s always that one guy, usually a teenage bully, trying to show off. He flapped his ears at us and Evans started the engine. The noise made the elephant change course and pass in front of us, trying to pretend he didn’t care. A few small calves were suckling or waving their trunks around, standing in the shade next to their mothers to keep cool.

And we had them all to ourselves.

This is one of the biggest joys of private concessions in Botswana: you get exclusive access to some of the most wonderful wildlife areas without becoming jammed in among other vehicles at special sightings.

I know this comes at a fairly stiff price, especially for those who don’t have suitcases stuffed with US dollars or Euros. But remember that eco-lodges in Botswana’s high-value, lowimpact tourism model are helping to minimise 12 responsible traveller

But that’s all behind the scenes. What you get on the front lines is an intimate and personal experience where there might be only 12 to 20 guests at the camp. Your guide knows the area like the back of his hand and is enthusiastic to share its secrets with you.

Although the camps are designed for low environmental impact, there’s no compromise on comfort. Your unit may be called a ‘tent’ but you won’t be roughing it, hell no! Hot showers, flushing toilets and comfy proper beds are standard, with indulgences like leather armchairs, carpets and writing desks for added glamour.

Think of it as luxury with a low carbon footprint, an African safari backed by a responsible approach to conservation and communities.

And what’s not to love about that? •

www.wilderness-safaris.com Follow ROXANNE REID here...

©roxannereid.co.za

©roxannereid.co.za

©roxannereid.co.za responsible traveller 13

CONSERVATION PROFILE

THE SETTING...

There is a small fishing village in the Western Cape, Gansbaai. This is the home of the Marine Big Five. The area is known internationally as a hot spot for the great white shark. Dyer Island is the hub of the bay and a protected habitat of the endangered African penguin and also home numerous other seabirds. Across the famous Shark Alley is Geyser Rock, home of almost 60 000 Cape fur seals,the favourite food of the great white shark. The area is also visited by

Bryde’s whales and Humpback whales but most renowned for the Southern right whales that visit these shores from June to December to mate and calve. The last of the Marine Big Five is the dolphins of which three species delight visitors – common dolphin, bottlenose and the shy humpback dolphins. It is here that a team of people from the Dyer Island Conservation Trust are working hard to ensure this marine heritage remains for decades to come.

CONSERVATION HEROES of Gansbaai words & pics - Dyer Island Conservation Trust

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

WILFRED CHIVELL...

Wilfred Chivell is a committed marine conservationist in the area and founder of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust. Wilfred has a diverse background from working as a President’s guard; diving for treasure, literally, as he discovered the biggest coin collection of a wreck called the Nicobar; to owning his own construction company in the 90s when sadly the recession hit and he had to close doors. But perhaps not so sadly, he then took his passion

Image - Tessa Buhrmann ©

‘Wilfred’s whole ethos is based on conservation and protection of the environment... ’

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CONSERVATION PROFILE for the sea and its marine life and has made a successful living from it while contributing to the conservation of an area he loves with a passion.

Starting off with a rubber dinghy in 2000 he started a whale watching company called Dyer Island Cruises. He took his own calls and handled most aspects of the business himself and slowly started building a new vision.

He then purchased a shark cage diving company in 2005 called Marine Dynamics and has changed much in an industry that could be used purely for financial gain. That has now grown into a very successful award winning eco-tourism business due to the research, conservation and education work of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust Wilfred established in 2006.

Wilfred himself will declare he prefers animals to people (except for those people just as passionate about animals) and his passion for the African penguin and its plight led to him creating the ‘Faces of Need’ housing project for this flightless bird. This project has grown over the last ten years with more than 2000 penguin homes, designed

by Wilfred, on the protected Dyer Island - the penguin colony there having declined by 90% in 30 years - and other colonies. Wilfred initiated two penguin conferences and pushed for the penguin to be listed as endangered. A dream of his finally came true in 2015 when he opened the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary, a state of that art rehabilitation facility.

Wilfred is passionate about whales, is part of the SA Whale Disentanglement network and has dedicated boats and a cradle for rescues.

He constantly strives for perfection and expects the same from his large team of almost ninety employees while at the same time encouraging them to be confident and take as much from all the experiences they are exposed to for their own personal growth. Both businesses are Fair Trade certified since 2008 and have been used as case studies for responsible tourism. The associated International Marine Volunteers programme has also recently joined the Fair Trade Tourism family.

The companies have won numerous awards as has Wilfred in his own right. Marine Dynamics won the African responsible Tourism Award: Best for Wildlife Conservation in 2015 and again the People’s Choice award this year. Wilfred was awarded the Eagle award by Birdlife – this is a lifetime achievement award.

Wilfred is changing the way the shark cage diving industry is viewed and enjoys support of other conservation organisations. He has structured a business model that not only creates employment but also benefits the environment and is aimed at protecting our marine heritage.

Every day funds are raised from clients visiting the companies and this supports the work of the Trust. Wilfred’s companies support the Trust in various ways, ultimately contributing a R1million towards research and conservation.

He has supported three marine biologists in completing their Master’s degrees and continues to assist PhD studies. This also meant Wilfred became incredibly interested in sharks and some of the research that has come from the team is groundbreaking and includes: population

Gansbaai Harbour

‘Wilfred encourages guests and tour operators to consider that “Your Choice Makes a Difference”...’

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CONSERVATION PROFILE dynamics through fin identification; wound healing; predatory interactions; foraging ecology and seasonal behaviour.

Wilfred also cares about the promotion of the area as a tourist destination and supports tourism efforts. He has been involved in the protection and accessibility of the Klipgat Caves, commemorates the Birkenhead Memorial every year through a special trip on the whale and shark boats. The coins Wilfred discovered on the wreck of the Nicobar are held at the Cultural History Museum in Cape Town and the Royal Coin Cabinet in Stockholm, Sweden.

What inspires you? Life!

Your favourite quote: “Conservation without money is just conversation” – Anton Rupert.

We need to put our money where our mouth is.

Wilfred’s whole ethos is based on conservation and protection of the environment. Measures are even in place at the company base, the Great White House from recycling, support of the SASSI fish programme, reduction of waste, using less chemicals, inclusion of a solar geyser and low wattage light bulbs. The boats use low emission engines. He encourages guests and tour operators to consider that “Your Choice Makes a Difference.”

Wilfred Chivell giving a presentation atbout APSS

Image - Tessa Buhrmann ©

Wilfred is the ideas man whose plan for a Marine Educational and Resource Centre saw the first privately owned whale exhibit erected in the Great White House – a prelude to this vision and a dream many years in the making. Wilfred’s vision is to build on what exists and create an internationally recognized Centre in Gansbaai that will attract tourists and locals, a place where scientists, conservationists, investors and locals meet and work together towards sustainable marine utilization, conservation, marine research and socio-economic upliftment.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE Alison Towner tracking a Great White Shark

ALISON TOWNER...

Inspired from a young age by her late father’s ambition to dive with White Sharks, Alison graduated from UK’S Bangor university in 2006 with a BSc Honours in Marine biology. After working in the Red sea as a PADI instructor, she joined the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, South Africa, in January 2007 and has remained on site ever since! Alison spent the first five years as a guide for Marine Dynamics Tours interacting daily with divers. This opportunity enabled her to collect extensive observational data on white sharks from which she completed her MSc through the University of Cape Town.

With fellow colleagues at the Trust, Alison has co-authored publications on white shark regional population dynamics, wound healing, environmental parameters affecting great white sharks, their movements via acoustic tagging and tracking and their hunting strategies. Alison continues with her studies on white sharks in Gansbaai with a focus on tracking and telemetry and a continued interest in environmental influences, particularly climate change.

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She is currently in progress with her PhD which examines the relationship between cage diving and behaviours of white sharks in control and cage dive designated zones. With a philosophy that science can save sharks, Alison is committed to research that helps us better understand white sharks and in turn better protect them.

What inspires you? Being privileged enough to study the animal that has fascinated me from young.

My late father was my inspiration with his writing, travelling and passion for marine life.

Your favourite quote: “Within you is the divine ability to manifest all you desire”- Wayne Dyer (irony that is his surname!)

CONSERVATION PROFILE

TRUDI MALAN...

Trudi is dedicated to saving the endangered African penguin. Having worked with this species for twenty four years she has seen the threats and losses faced by the penguin and other seabirds. Trudi fell into penguin conservation when she was involved in an oil spill and her heart was then sold on these tuxedoed and charismatic birds.

Conservation Trust and was key to the setting up of the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary project in Gansbaai. Trudi handles all standard operating procedures and protocols of APSS.

As she continues to reside in the Eastern Cape, Trudi visits the sanctuary once a month for a week at a time, but knows her well trained team of Xolani and Mervin have everything under Trudi has the scars to prove all the years she has control. Trudi has been involved in the fight worked with these birds – penguins have strong against the setting up of a nuclear power station beaks. Trudi was instrumental in setting up the Thyspunt in her beloved town of Cape St Francis. rehabilitation facility in Cape St Francis where She is a seasoned journalist with a passion for she worked for many years with minimal funding. environmental issues using her words to educate Trudi has been connected with the Dyer Island and inspire.

What inspires you? I want to make a difference, to be involved, to be the change. I was born an activist with the emphasis on the ‘act’ part.

Your favourite quote: “Your beliefs become your thoughts, Your thoughts become your words, Your words become your actions, Your actions become your habits, Your habits become your values, Your values become your destiny.” – Mahatma Gandhi Trudi Malan with Xolani (left) and Mervin (right) after a penguin release

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XOLANI LAWO...

Xolani hails from East London and is the senior bird rehabilitator at the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary, a project of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust. He is affectionately known as the ‘penguin whisperer’ because of his gentle way with the birds and his unique ability or super power to receive very few bites. It was this special talent that Trudi spotted in 2006 when Xolani was assisting with an oil spill and Trudi has worked with Xolani since. Xolani was also once a tour guide and this skill is also put to great use as he educates people every day about the plight of the endangered African penguin.

What inspires you? The penguins.

I love the way they protect each other.

It is moving to watch their behaviour and I think we can learn a lot from them.

Being able to share this knowledge and love for the African penguin and other seabirds with our community makes me feel proud.

Your favourite quote: Not really a quote but an attitude. We just get the job done, we don’t stress.

Image - Tessa Buhrmann ©

Adult and baby pernguin at their nest

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Xolani Lawo, thinking ‘Blue”

PINKEY NGEWU...

Pinkey joined the Dyer Island Conservation Trust in October 2015 assisting with administration, fundraising, projects and education. Pinkey is a marine and nature guide with a diploma in Nature Conservation.

Pinkey’s nine years’ of experience in conservation and tourism makes her keenly aware of conservation needs and sustainability of our natural resources. Pinkey is also involved in the operations of FGASA (Field Guides Association of Southern Africa) in the Western Cape and Namaqualand region as an Executive Coordinator.

Pinkey is a passionate educator and has implemented the DICT’s Environmental Education Programme (DEEP). She has a deep love for educating children to create future conservation ambassadors. The group she works with is all female as she sees far too few females in critical conservation roles. Pinkey’s warm nature and infectious laugh has made her a treasure to those that work with her.

What inspires you? It is practically

impossible to live in South Africa and not fall in love with nature. Since childhood nature fascinated me, the mountains, oceans and the creatures. Nature got into my eyes, my ears, my blood, my soul and heart- changing me forever. I am not a kind of person who lacks inspiration.

When life seems dark and overshadows me, all I simply need to do is to admire the Mother Nature and absorb her beauty.

Every time of the year provides us all with a bunch of desired inspiration for life.

Nature’s beauty makes us feel the harmony of the world and lets us dream. My love for nature and people and the willingness to dedicate my life to protect them made me pursue a career in conservation.

Environmental education inspires me, educating children about conservation gives me the most satisfaction. I believe that the young generation is capable of changing and protecting the environment for future generation and for their enjoyment. Engaging them in the outdoors, connect them with nature and empower them at the same time to explore and share their personal experiences. This gives them the ability to listen as nature speaks to them. The power of nature to transform us, infusing all of our senses, becomes evident through these vivid, lasting connections.

Your favourite quote: “Our connection with nature may not only determine our happiness but also our attitude about protecting the environment we inhabit.”

- anon

FOR MORE INFORMATION...

www.dict.org.za www.whalewatchsa.com www.sharkwatchsa.com

Pinkey Ngewu admiring the fynbos responsible traveller 21

What’s news... andBeyond Matetsi Private Game Reserve opens near Victoria Falls The brand new andBeyond Matetsi River Lodge opened near Victoria Falls on 01 August, following an extensive multi-million dollar rebuild. Situated in a 50 000 hectare (123 500 acre) private wildlife concession on the Zambezi River, the lodge is set to provide the most luxurious accommodation and most unique wildlife experiences in the area. andBeyond Matetsi River Lodge consists of two camps of nine suites each, including a family suite at each camp. With one camp fully open and operational on 01 August, the remaining camp is scheduled to open in September.

Highlighting the area’s cultural heritage, Matetsi is decorated with traditional abstract carvings of wood and stone and features a strong copper theme in homage to the mineral riches of the region.

The lodge boasts a generous Safari Shop and state-of-the-art gym, as well as a massage sala and conference facility. A 20-meter-long (66-foot-long) rim flow swimming pool stretches along the river’s bank. A sole-use private villa,

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andBeyond Matetsi River House, adds exclusive accommodation for private groups of up to eight.

The four-bedroom villa boasts its own kitchen, indoor and outdoor dining areas, a private veranda overlooking the Zambezi, a swimming pool and its own fire pit. It comes with a dedicated guide, private vehicle, chef and butler.

Located on one of the largest wildlife concessions in the area and boasting extensive river frontage, andBeyond Matetsi offers the most rich and exclusive game viewing experience in Victoria Falls. Extensive planning and reserve management has taken place on the concession for almost two years, encouraging wildlife to thrive in this ideal riverside location. A diverse range of habitats is home to an extensive number of species.

As part of the ambitious project, 14 new waterholes have been created on the reserve, using strategically placed troughs and solar pumps. Additional pumps were placed at existing boreholes to ensure a steady water supply. A new network of roads has opened up

What’s news... the reserve for game drives, while bush clearing programmes have limited the encroachment of fast-growing plant species, increasing the habitat for plains game. The wildlife population has also benefitted from increased security efforts, with both armed National Parks staff and privately sourced employees being utilised for anti-poaching patrols.

andBeyond Matetsi River Lodge. The activity is an interpretive tour, accompanied by an andBeyond guide, and includes the opportunity to explore the beautiful paths around the Victoria Falls Park, visit the Livingstone statue and learn about how the Falls were created.

Afterwards, guests enjoy a decadent high tea at the Victoria Falls Hotel.

The meticulous land management means that guests are in for exceptional game viewing on game drives led by highly trained andBeyond guides, including consistent sightings of zebra, giraffe and buffalo, as well as the big herds of elephant that Matetsi is justly renowned for. Wild dogs and hyena are spotted on a regular basis and large prides of lion have made the reserve their home. Cheetah, and leopard, as well as the elegant sable and roan antelope are also among the species seen at Matetsi.

“Having originally been involved in the conversion of the Matetsi concession from wildlife hunting to photographic safaris, we are very excited to be relaunching Matetsi to the world,” says Joss Kent, andBeyond CEO.

With the lodge situated in close proximity to the World Heritage Site of Victoria Falls, a complementary tour of the Falls is included in the rate for a stay of two nights or more at

“Not only does this well-loved reserve offer an outstanding guest experience for its stunning location on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River, but it also allows them the opportunity to tour the world-famous Victoria Falls in true andBeyond style, using our own vehicles and guides. The lodge itself will without question also set a new standard in Zimbabwe and at Victoria Falls.”

www.andBeyond.comX

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View over the fynbos to Walker Bay from the deck at Forest Lodge, Grootbos Nature Reserve

Road tripping... the#GreatCapeEscape part 2 words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

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L

eaving the vineyards and orchards of the Elgin Valley we continue our journey up the coast towards the pretty town of Gansbaai – home to shark cage diving, seasonal whale watching and sublime sunsets over the bay.

There was to be no shark cage diving or whale watching this time around, but I did have the pleasure of introducing my hubby to ‘Suzi’, the huge (and authentic) Southern Right whale skeleton hanging from the ceiling at the GREAT WHITE HOUSE. Not only is the Great White House the meeting point for the adventure activities offered by MARINE DYNAMICS and DYER ISLAND CRUISES, it is where guests learn about marine conservation, the Marine Big 5 and why ‘your choice makes a difference’.

It is this ‘choice’ that enables the DYER ISLAND CONSERVATION TRUST to continue its important research into discovering and understanding this globally important marine eco-system.

We also had the opportunity of visiting the AFRICAN PENGUIN & SEABIRD SANCTUARY – APSS for short, which was just bricks, mortar and a seemingly impossible dream when I last visited.

APSS, a project of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust (DICT), is a world class rehabilitation centre established to assist the endangered African penguin as well as other marine birds. The centre, which provides rehabilitative care to rescued penguins and other seabirds, is open free-ofcharge to the public – a donation is appreciated, and all proceeds from the coffee shop (they make great coffee and brownies) and well stocked gift shop help fund this very necessary but costly non-profit organisation.

Shark cage diving and whale watching are popular activities for guests at the luxurious GROOTBOS PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE, as is hearing about the DICT conservation and research initiatives. It was in fact through the financial support of a Grootbos guest that enabled entrepreneur and conservationist, Wilfred Chivell’s APSS dream to become a reality.

Grootbos itself is no stranger to conservation and responsible tourism, and through its award winning Grootbos Foundation, guests are able to have a direct impact on the natural environment and the local communities of Walker Bay. We were not only there to experience their five-star hospitality, but to have a close responsible traveller 25

encounter with the fabulous fynbos for which they are world renowned. Our passionate and experienced guide Jo kept us entertained, as she wove tales of Dutch settlers, local San culture and the medicinal and botanical value of fynbos into our two hour flower safari drive. The Dutch settlers were dismayed at finding hills covered with ‘fijn bosch’ - a ‘fine forest’ of evergreen shrubs, woody plants and flowering annuals and bulbs, when they were in fact looking for sturdy trees for ship building and construction.

Jo explained how the Restionaceae species are a unique distiguishing family of the fynbos - “if you can’t see restios then you’re not in the fynbos” - and that the Cape reed, Elegia tectorum, is commonly used for thatching. And that the creamy white flowers of the blombos, Metalasia muricata, are “widely utilised in the wild flower industry”.

The shades of green and splashes of ‘ blombos’ white would soon, during the winter months, become hillsides of pink – “my favourite time” Jo said, “is when the pink heather covers the hills like a carpet”. This fynbos species, Erica irregularis, only grows in a very small area

between the villages of Stanford and Gansbaai, yet here at Grootbos it grows in abundance covering the lower slopes with their veritable display. The Cape sugarbirds are just one of the bird species found here that will delight bird watchers – we watched as they hovered momentarily before darting playfully from bush to bush, determined to defy the photographers in our midst.

Soon the sun was hovering over the horizon of Walker Bay… the day was done, but an evening of fine dining approached. The deliciously flavoured and beautifully plated cuisine bearing testament to its source – much of the fresh produce is grown and supplied through income generating projects initiated by the GROOTBOS FOUNDATION. With what felt like too little time to appreciate and enjoy our luxurious suite, we found ourselves with Jo on an early morning walk in the Milkwood forest. This seemed an apt way to conclude our brief visit as the name Grootbos an Afrikaans word meaning ‘big forest’ – comes from this wonderful stand of ancient indigenous trees that live for what seems like an eternity.

‘Jo explained how the Restionaceae species are a unique distinguishing family of the fynbos - if you can’t see restios then you’re not in the fynbos...’

On our flower safari

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View of a fynbos clad hillside

Metalasia murica, commonly known as the blombos

Cape sugarbird

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‘Much of the fresh produce is grown and supplied through the income generating community projects initiated by the Grootbos Foundation ...’ Our gorgeous suite at Grootbos Forest Lodge

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The lovely Forest Lodge

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Our next stop was the lovely GONDWANA GAME RESERVE near Mossel Bay. As the only Western Cape game reserve with free-roaming Big Five, and its easy accessibility from Cape Town, Gondwana is exceptionally popular with both local and international visitors. We stayed in one of the spacious villas – complete with raised decks, exceptional views and… WiFi! Other options include the luxury suites at Kwena Lodge which offer a modern and luxurious twist to the traditional domed abode of the Khoi-San. Our game experience at Gondwana started on arrival, with a herd of elephant browsing on the lush grass around Kwena Lodge. But it was on our game drive with young local guide Eben that we realised just how much there is to see and appreciate at Gondwana - from the fynbos vegetation to the shrubby renosterveld and grassy plains; from impala, eland, and the majestic sable to buffalo, lion and elephant.

Admittedly it took some time to get accustomed to seeing eland and elephant, as well as other traditional plains game browsing in the fynbos… For me the big conservation story is the rehabilitation of the overgrazed and unproductive farmland, the removal of alien vegetation, the employment opportunities that were created and the educational activities they have implemented.

For guests that have ‘done’ numerous safaris and are looking for something a little more ‘handson’, a stay at the GONDWANA TENTED CAMP offers just that. Get your hands a little dirty as you eradicate alien vegetation, set camera traps, monitor game and even catch amphibians in the stream – in a sense become a kid again! All this while still enjoying the relative comforts of home in a very relaxed, ‘out-doorsy’ way.

Rozendal... vinagrier extraordinaire

‘There is much to see and appreciate at Gondwana - from fynbos vegetation to the shrubby renosterveld and grassy plains; from impala, eland and the majestic sable to buffalo, lion and elephant...’

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Elephant around the traditionally domed suites of Kwena Lodge

Lion cubs responsible traveller 31

‘For me the big conservation story is the rehabilitation of the overgrazed and unproductive farmland, the removal of alien vegetation, the employment opportunities and the educational activities they have implemented...’ 32 responsible traveller

View over Gondwana’s Nauga Valley responsible traveller 33

Horses, paddocks and hillsides

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Soon we were ‘on the road again’ – the Willie Nelson song comes to mind – detouring through Sedgefield for a cappuccino at The Village Deli… home to freshly baked pastries and Fairtrade coffee. Then into Knysna to admire the spectacular view of the Knysna Heads from the lookout point and the carpet of colours the retreating tide reveals in the upper reaches of the Knysna Lagoon – best appreciated when one has more time, and preferably on a boat cruise!

The colours and comfort of the five-star KURLAND HOTEL were just what we needed.

Being welcomed with bubbly in a room lined with books, comfy chairs and bowls of beautiful roses set the scene for a weekend of luxury and relaxation. It felt like coming home to Grandma’s house, where she had filled the house with fresh flowers, hauled out the silver and prepared a banquet for her beloved family.

Our suite was beautiful, the air subtly enhanced with the fragrance of fresh roses, the enticing view drawing us out to a private verandah complete with recliners and a splash pool, all that was missing was the G&T, which I’m sure could easily have been arranged. But high tea called – decadent chocolate cake and dreamy cappuccinos…

‘Walking through the expansive estate one is acutely aware of the equestrian lifestyle that Kurland is renowned for with its gloriously green paddocks and perfectly groomed horses...’

Walking through the expansive estate one is acutely aware of the equestrian lifestyle that Kurland is renowned for with it gloriously green paddocks, perfectly groomed horses, creeper clad stables and the Kurland Polo Pavilion – where the fast paced, ‘sport of kings’ is played. A great way of exploring is on horseback, on foot or by quad bike, the latter adding a spot of adrenalin to the elegantly tree-lined and extensive road network.

We had the privilege of getting beneath the surface of the luxury, rose petals and romance that is so obviously Kurland. Executive Chef Leon Coetzee gave us a tour of the extensive herb and organic vegetable, the fields of organically grown honeybush and rooibos tea - which are used to produce Mandela Tea (in collaboration with the Long Walk to Freedom brand), the floating bee hives as well as the organically fed beef herd.

Dining at Kurland is a treat. The soft lighting of the Homestead verandah, complemented by candle light and roses, was perfect for a romantic evening of fine cuisine and fabulous service. Each course plated to perfection, a culinary work of art with flavour to match. It’s little wonder that Leon’s diverse culinary skills and creative flair have once again seen the Kurland Hotel restaurant honoured with an American Express Platinum Card Fine Dining Restaurant Award. responsible traveller 35

‘It felt like coming home to Grandma’s house, where she had filled the house with fresh flowers, hauled out the silver and prepared a banquet for her beloved family ...’

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Our ranger Ryan, checks the surrounding hills for game

After the lush greenery and rolling hills of Kurland we headed to 22,000 hectares of pristine private wilderness in the Eastern Cape. KWANDWE PRIVATE GAME RESERVE, a renowned conservation and community success story, promised a ‘sophisticated safari experience for the conscientious traveller’ – and we weren’t disappointed. Our suite at Ecca Lodge was funky and sophisticated, in a laidback kind of way, and exuded the vibrancy and textures of Africa. The views were breathtaking and the private splash-pool an absolute delight.

Our safari experience was equally rewarding with a number of special sightings, thanks to the sharp eyes of our tracker and Ryan, our ranger.

Ryan’s birding knowledge soon saw us ticking off new bird species, such as the black-winged stilt and the ant-eating chat. Special moments

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included spending time with a female cheetah and her three sub-adult cubs, watching a group of bat-eared foxes hunting for insects and of course seeing the very elusive aardwolf – as well as seeing four of the Big Five.

What makes a safari experience at Kwandwe extra special is the knowledge that their community initiatives, through the Ubunye Foundation, provide social development based on community participation. What sets the Ubunye Foundation apart from so many other social development operations is that it focuses on facilitating an asset-based approach to development where the key is community participation in preference to purely a needs based approach - ‘it’s all about harnessing people’s potential rather that focusing on what they lack’.

‘Our suite at Ecca Lodge was funky and sophisticated, in a laid-back kind of way, and exuded the vibrancy and textures of Africa...’

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‘Before long the raised wooden path opens out onto a raised deck with spectacular views of the deserted beach and, aptly named, wild coast ocean...’ 40 responsible traveller

The last stop on our epic journey was PRANA LODGE PRIVATE BEACH ESTATE AND SPA, located just north of East London in an area known as Chintsa. This luxury boutique hotel, in its well secluded forest setting, exceeded all our expectations… right from the start.

We proceeded down a leafy path to a secluded doorway that opened into our tastefully decorated ‘Citrine Suite’ – complete with fresh flowers, original South African artwork, beautiful Persian carpets (even the loo has one), a king-size bed and an equally ‘king-size’ bathroom, with a private outdoor shower. And that’s before we’d even stepped out into our private garden with its very own splash pool.

Not wanting to waste any time we headed out to explore the extensive grounds – owner Gail Davidson, we were told, has green fingers as well as a passion for indigenous vegetation. The trees and coastal forest are alive with bird sounds, a couple of Cape white-eyes dart about in a scrubby tree and an olive thrush scratches around in the undergrowth. Before long the raised wooden path opens out onto a raised platform with spectacular views of the deserted beach and, aptly named, wild coast ocean… this long 21km stretch of pristine coastline popular for an early morning and late afternoon stroll.

Then there is the spa, and as one would expect in a place so filled with natural splendour, the Prana Lodge Wellness Spa features holistic treatments dedicated to restoring balance and energy through the use of authentic, natural and indigenous treatments. Our couples’ treatment started with our feet being pampered with an aromatherapy massage, followed by wonderfully relaxing full body massage. The fragrance of lemongrass and peppermint – all from their herb garden, naturally, is as therapeutic as the firm hands of the therapists massaging away the stress.

With her wealth of experience, Gail embarked on a mission to create a spa where not only its guests are pampered, but its employees are uplifted.

With this, the decision was made to employ talented young ladies from an organisation known as ‘African Angels’. This initiative provides women, often from challenging backgrounds, with the opportunity to develop skills in beauty therapy, cosmetology, massage and the likes, equipping them to enter into, and grow in the work world.

Dining is an almost full time job here at Prana, where exquisitely plated and fabulously fresh responsible traveller 41

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The Citrine Suite

The Pool

One of the dining areas... overlooking the pool

Vuyo arriving at th

Wooden walkway through the forest the clivias will be amazing in Spring!

Breakfast with a v

he deck with our breakfast

view!

cuisine of mouth-watering proportions, greet you at every opportunity. The portions are light, Executive Chef Jaycee tells us, “and we’re big on health”, he says. They are also big on growing their own produce, sourcing seasonally and locally.

Our meals were served indoors, beside a roaring log fire; on the verandah, overlooking a rim-flow pool shimmering in the evening light, and on the raised wooden deck overlooking the beach – where Vuyo, our waiter, ceremoniously revealed a ‘designer’ breakfast, while the white frothed waves of the Indian Ocean crashed rhythmically to the shore.

There is another very special thing about Prana Lodge. Their commitment to employing locally where possible, of up-skilling and promoting from within - Nicholas, the new chef, started in the scullery three years ago; the head waiter, Botha, was a brick-layer when the lodge was built and Vuyo, our waiter who started out as a labourer. I loved the confidence and pride displayed by those working at Prana, for me it is a sure indication that all is well… nothing better than getting up in the morning, happy to go to work!

And as with every road trip, there comes a time that one must go home… and back to work.

Fabulous memories, exceptional places and wonderful experiences – such diversity, its little wonder guests to our shores go home and say they #loveSouthAfrica! •

To catch the first part of our epic adventure check click HERE And be sure to sign up for updates... www.responsibletraveller.co.za Huge thanks to all who wined, dined & hosted us... it certainly was an epic #GreatCapeEscape!!

PLACES TO STAY: www.grootbos.com www.gondwanagr.co.za www.kurland.co.za www.kwandwe.com www.pranalodge.co.za responsible traveller 43

Masakhane Township Tours ...the sharp sharp tour! words - Gansbaai Tourism / pics Brenda du Toit

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T

here is an air of hushed expectancy as the visitors gather in the courtyard outside Ally Msweli’s container waiting for their tour of Masakhane Township. Ally gives them a warm welcome and a brief introduction and then they set off on their tour which includes a visit to the local crèche where the young children welcome them with a joyful song or two; a taste of ‘Umqombothi’ and of course they pass by where the ‘smileys’ (sheep heads which are a local delicacy) are being prepared. responsible traveller 45

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The resident poet Anati regales the visitors with his self-composed poems about the area and other important topics. On to the Swop Shop where the children are encouraged to collect plastic and other recyclables and exchange them for items of stationery and toiletries.

En route to the ‘Lookout hill’ Ally speaks about the history and points out other landmarks. The locals participate in Gansbaai Tourism’s garden competition and one can see the effort put into these vegetable gardens where the produce is consumed, sold or given to friends.

Anati, the resident poet

‘There is an air of hushed expectancy as the visitors gather in the courtyard outside Ally Msweli’s container waiting for their tour of Masakhane Township...’

All along the way the happy children entertain with their antics and happy faces and “sharp sharp” signs!

The tour ends back at the courtyard where refreshments and local delicacies can be enjoyed in the small restaurant.

Masakhane means ‘stand together’ and the air of pride in the township is quite obvious. Ally’s passion for the area comes across clearly in this delightful stories and anecdotes.

Ally can be contacted on 076 098 1907 or alymsweli@gmail.com • Distinctive V shaped blow of the Southern right whale

www.gansbaaiinfo.com responsible traveller 47

What’s news...

Asilia Recognised by Fair Trade Tourism – a first for Tanzania Responsible Tourism Tanzania (RTTZ) and Fair Trade Tourism’s pioneering mutual recognition initiative, which sees best practice in local responsible tourism being recognised globally, has added eight world-leading camps to its portfolio.

The camps - Sayari, Oliver’s, Little Oliver’s, Namiri, Dunia, Kimondo, Olakira, and Ubuntu – are part of Asilia’s renowned East African offering, making it the first company in Tanzania to achieve this accolade.

“We are immensely proud of this achievement,” says Asilia’s Positive Impact Co-ordinator, Clarissa Hughes. “It means that our efforts are not only recognised nationally but also internationally, on a level that is understood across the board.”

Fair Trade Tourism is partnering with like-minded African responsible tourism organisations like RTTZ through its mutual recognition agreements in an effort to raise awareness of the critical role sustainable, responsible tourism plays in the continent’s unfolding tourism landscape.

Through these groundbreaking agreements the organisation is helping to both benchmark

Relaxing in the tent at Olakira Camp

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standards in sustainable tourism and position Africa as a major role-player in making tourism a powerful tool for change.

“By working with partners like RTTZ across Africa, Fair Trade Tourism is providing valuable market access to mutually recognised businesses through its network of approved international inbound and outbound tour operators and its Fair Trade Holiday packages,” says the organisation’s Managing Director, Nivashnee Naidoo. “These are packages in which at least 50% of bednights are spent in either Fair Trade Tourism mutually recognised or directly certified businesses,” she explains. “We are delighted that Asilia’s eight camps can now be added to these itineraries.”

Having attained RTTZ’s Tree Level, Asilia’s eight camps have all been operating for some time and have proved that their working culture and daily operations are fully integrated into a sustainable and responsible management approach. Systems are in place to monitor and redirect the operations and all the employees

Olakira Camp

What’s news... understand the triple bottom line approach.

Membership of RTTZ is entirely voluntary.

Organizations represented on the Board of Trustees include: Tourism Confederation of Tanzania, Hotel Association of Tanzania, Zanzibar Association of Tourism Investors, Tanzania Association of Tour Operators, Ministry of Natural Resources and Tourism, Tanzania Tourist Board, Honeyguide Foundation and Round Table Africa.

Its main mission is to encourage and promote a more sustainable tourism industry in Tanzania.

“RTTZ is delighted to see Asilia once again leading the way in responsible tourism practices in East Africa,” said Damian Bell, Director of RTTZ. “The partnership with FTT will enhance the work of RTTZ in supporting and encouraging the development of sustainable tourism, and help to strengthen the economic and business foundation of the Tanzanian tourism industry.

We see this relationship as key in communicating the successful growth of a fair and equitable industry in Tanzania to a global audience.

Asilia has always been a leader in the fields of sustainability and responsible operations, and it is my pleasure to congratulate them on this

Sundowners at Olakira Camp

remarkable achievement.”

Fair Trade Tourism board member Judy KepherGona is a stalwart of the East African tourism industry and champion of sustainable tourism in the region. “I believe that sustainability is the new luxury. Asilia is on the right track. All evidence points to a growing recognition of significance of sustainability in tourism. East Africa cannot be left behind. Through the mutual agreement between RTTZ and FTT, East Africa becomes a global player in the sustainable tourism arena because FTT standards are recognised by Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC). I hope many more properties in East Africa will follow Asilia’s steps,” she says.

Asilia is the first and only African safari company to achieve a five-star rating from the Global Impact Investing Rating System (GIIRS) and is graded at the Platinum level for its impact model. •

www.asiliaafrica.com www.fairtrade.travelo Delta

Breakfast at Namiri Plains Camp responsible traveller 49

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Celebrating 25 years of...

CONSERVATION VICTORIES with andBEYOND

F

ormed in 1991, andBeyond had the goal of successfully demonstrating that a financially sound, wildlife-based tourism operator could in fact make a significant contribution to conservation and biodiversity whilst also promoting sustainable community development. By true definition, responsible travel not only positively impacts the land and its wildlife, but also the people who live in and around these wildlife areas. “From our greater conservation model right down to the minutest details of the daily activities that take place in their lodges, every decision made revolves around our core ethos of Care of the Land, Care of the Wildlife, and Care of the People. These intrinsic values have become an intuitive part of the way that we operate and, increasingly, are part of the reason why our guests find their travel experience with us so rewarding.�

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

2 1

andBeyond contributes to the protection of almost 4 million hectares (over 9 million acres) of land under wildlife conservation.

andBeyond Phinda Private Game Reserve encompasses 23 000 hectares (56 800 acres) of re-established wilderness land. This once degraded farmland is now one of the world’s most renowned Big Five game reserves. Phinda is home to cheetah, elephant and lion populations of national significance and has the biggest private herd of nyala in the world. Phinda also houses a multitude of other species, some rare, others endangered, including all members of the Big Five.

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andBeyond Ngala Private Game Reserve in the Kruger National Park was the first three-way partnership between a private organisation (&Beyond), the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) SA and the state-run South African National Parks Trust in 1990. In terms of the agreement, &Beyond leases the Ngala land and, in return, pays a portion of its turnover to the SANParks Trust for use in expanding the national parks network.

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Leopard monitoring at andBeyond Phinda Private Game Reserve: between 2002 and 2012, 72 leopards were radio collared and satellite tracked, and their movements and interactions documented.

The research findings have led to the reduction of leopard trophy hunting in the region, as well as to an increase in Phinda’s leopard population.

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Rhinos Without Borders (RWB), the joint initiative between andBeyond and Great Plains Conservation, has safely translocated 25 endangered rhino from the poaching hotspots of South Africa to relative safe haven of Botswana.

Read more on rhinoswithoutborders.com to see how you can get involved.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

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Protection and monitoring of green turtles on andBeyond Mnemba Island, one of only two protected nesting sites for the species in Zanzibar. Each year an average of 38 nests are laid on the island, with more than 100 hatchlings born per nest.

Image - www.davidcarbo.com Š

The Ezemvelo KwaZuluNatal Wildlife Black Rhino Range Expansion Project selected andBeyond Phinda as its first release site in 2004. Today, Phinda is renowned for its healthy population of both black and white rhino.

andBeyond contributes to the protection of almost 4 million hectares (over 9 million acres) of land under wildlife conservation.

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andBeyond negotiated the formation of the Mnemba Island Marine Conservation Area, which protects the waters around the island.

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Relocation of over 250 suni antelope living on andBeyond Mnemba to Jozani Forest on Zanzibar Island, greatly enhancing the species’ status at Jozani. The remaining suni on Mnemba continue to prosper, breeding twice a year in some cases.

CONSERVATION PROFILE

12

Every year, the andBeyond Mnemba Island team hosts marine conservation lessons for 80 school children from mainland Zanzibar.

11 In 2005, five Aders’ duiker (the rarest antelope species in Africa) were introduced to andBeyond Mnemba Island; the population has since increased to 18. The Wildlife Conservation Society estimates there are only 300 to 600 Aders’ duiker remaining in the wild.

13

Monitoring of endangered wattled crane and other threatened birds at andBeyond Sandibe and Nxabega in Botswana has helped guides to understand the population dynamics and ecological requirements of wetland-dependent species.

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Elephant research and pioneering contraception helps to maintain sustainable elephant numbers at andBeyond Phinda Private Game Reserve without the need for culling.

Research of the symbiotic relationship between lion and hyena at andBeyond Grumeti Serengeti Tented Camp; a select group of animals were fitted with GPS collars that will be used to collect data on their movements and interaction.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

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In 1998, andBeyond Phinda Private Game Reserve donated 10 lions to the Mpumalanga Parks Board for relocation to Mthethomusha Game Reserve.

In 2011, andBeyond assisted with the groundbreaking mass translocation of 50 gaur (Indian wild cattle) to restore the species in India’s Bandhavgarh National Park.

The herd, which continues to thrive, has now officially surpassed the 100 mark.

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andBeyond’s conservation teams continue to protect and monitor the rhino populations in our reserves across East and Southern Africa on a daily basis.

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In 2015, andBeyond Phinda Private Game Reserve donated five lionesses to Rwanda’s Akagera National Park (as part of an African Parks project) which helped to successfully reverse a 20-year local extinction of the species; one of these lionesses recently gave birth to the first cubs born in Rwanda in nearly two decades.

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Supported by an on-site conservation team for more than ten years, the careful preservation of the reefs surrounding andBeyond Vamizi Island has led to one of the dive sites accessed from the island, Neptune’s Arm, being recognised as one of the top scuba sites in the world.

CONSERVATION PROFILE

andBeyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge participates in a programme to combat an invasive alien weed, salvinia molesta, which is threatening the marine life and diversity of the Okavango Delta (a UNESCO World Heritage Site).

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So little is known about the coconut crab (the world’s biggest land crab) that the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) lists their conservation status as ‘data deficient’. andBeyond Mnemba Island has a small yet stable population of these enormous crabs and recently hosted researchers from Sweden’s Gothenburg University in Sweden, who conducted a study of the coconut crabs on Mnemba and nearby Chumbe Island (the first study of its kind conducted in Africa).

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A groundbreaking quarantine programme at andBeyond Phinda Private Game Reserve has turned the reserve into a major source of TB-free buffalo, with more than a thousand animals relocated to other reserves.

Conservation has been a strong driver on andBeyond Vamizi Island even before its six luxury villas were opened, with a conservation team present on the island from 2005. Home to one of the world’s great marine archipelagos, this entire area is under threat. Along with the Vamizi conservation team, &Beyond uses our influence and expertise to protect it, focusing on reef conservation and creating safe migratory routes for the endangered species that travel this coastline, from turtles to humpback whales.

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andBeyond Phinda was the first private game reserve to re-introduce adult elephants from Zimbabwe, ultimately re-establishing social normality for orphaned elephants.

first published on:

w w w.andbeyond.com responsible traveller 55

th e road...

LESS T R AV E L L E D words & pics - Aga Szydlik

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H

aving just finished a project in Tanzania together with Jo, my NGO partner, we decided to head out for our first African safari.

After a quick stop to repack our gear, we were soon on the local bus heading out towards our next adventure: Ruaha…

“Ruaha ?...., where is Ruaha and do they have elephants?” I asked Jo, squeezing myself into an almost non-existing space in the bus, my thoughts still lingering on the lush vistas of the Serengeti. Eight hours of bumpy road later, we disembarked at Tungamalenga village with our final destination being CHOGELA CAMP. Chogela Safari Camp is located on the outskirts of Tungamalenga village, few kilometers from Ruaha National Park. The spacious camp is peacefully nestled among the thick canopies of trees, most of them planted by Swalehe, the camps owner and operator. Reforestation, renewable energy sources, recycling and permaculture ensures the lightest ecological footprint as possible. The campsite was built with minimum disturbance to the vegetation, the materials used for construction seamlessly blending into the natural vegetation that surrounds it. Accommodation includes comfortable permanent cabin-style tents or sheltered areas where you can pitch your own tent.

Our coffee and delicious breakfast, consisting of nutella crepes and organic fruit farmed on the campground, was set out in the spacious lounge area and was prepared by students from Iringa Culinary School.

Afterward breakfast we chatted to Swalehe about the camp. He told us about his ‘conservation through education’ philosophy, his commitment to the empowering of local communities, to responsible travel as well as cultural exchange.

Chogela Camp is the result of the generosity of a village combined with one man’s vision of building an eco-friendly camp that generates real and visible socio-economic benefits to its local community.

Mr. Kayera, camp founder, dreamed of building a place that attracts environmentally and culturally conscious travellers from all corners of the world, those having a positive impact on the people and places they visit. Not having financial resources to realize his vision, Kayera reached out to the village authorities for help, his wish was heard and 18 hectares of land were granted for the camp’s development.

Kayera built the campsite with his own hands while minimizing impact on environment - he planted trees and established permaculture.

Now, 12 years later, Kayera’s campsite - now known as Chogela Campsite, is vividly promoting eco-tourism, through education and outreach. It attracts foreign tourists ranging from researchers, students, eco-conscious travellers and locals, thereby enhancing the positive impact of travel on the communities they visit.

All cultural programs established at Chogela Camp focus on village based tourism, generating income for local community members and funding community development projects.

With education and cultural exchange in mind, Chogela established the Environment & Education in Action program. This program works with visiting volunteers, community

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members, and local schools to ensure children grow with sustainability, and care for the environment, in their minds. Chogela staff teach the children and adults from the local villages how to plant and grow local medicinal trees and vegetables effectively using the principles of permaculture.

Chogela Camp produces all their own food in a self-sustainable, organic and environmentally friendly manner. The Program is a unique blend of volunteerism with environmental learning at a grassroots level, focusing on community service and development. Visiting participants expand their knowledge of the local environment in rural Tanzania while creating a positive outcome for the environment and local communities.

In addition, the Program is focused on community service and development, offering learning and participating in traditional Tanzanian paintings, woodworking, beadwork, basket weaving, pottery, drumming, music, dance, and fashion.

Participants are able to observe crafts of the HeHe

through the bush, follow cattle herders, observe and participate in their activities without any constraints.

As the night fell, we gathered by the fire for story telling and dancing - curiously, I asked if the dancing and singing was part of a special performance organized for benefit of visitors.

The answer was “no, tribe members gather every night to pass their cultural heritage to younger generation”. As our time at Chogela Camp was coming to an end, we embarked on a final adventure - an African Safari with Swalehe as our guide.

Ruaha, that ‘other park’ in Tanzania is located in the middle of the country about 130 kilometers from Iringa - Ruaha National Park is the largest national park in Tanzania. Remote and wild landscapes with baobab studded hills and rocky escarpments offer a diversity of wildlife, such as big game, over 571 species of birds, over 1,650 plant species, and the highest concentration of buffalo herds and elephants in East Africa.

‘Chogela staff teach the children and adults from local villages how to plant and grow local medicinal trees and vegetables effectively using the principles of permaculture...’ and Maasai tribesman. They can also volunteer at the local primary schools by painting visual aids in classrooms and by teaching.

The Ruaha Cultural Tourism program, which is focused on village-based tourism projects, helps to generate income for local communities and fund development projects. Near Tungamalenga Village there are three Maasai Boomas managed jointly by the Ruaha Cultural Tourism organization and Chogela Camp.

After being impressed by conservation efforts at camp, we decided to spend a few more days with a Maasai tribe. Our guide and translator was a a young tribe member studying tourism at Iringa University, curiously exchanging cultural information with us. To our delight, the tribe went about their daily rituals without paying much attention to us. With permission to document their life, we were able to roam free around the booma, chat with elders, chase kids 58 responsible traveller

Ruaha proved to be wild, authentic and off the beaten path. We were able to explore the park without a ‘people overload’, enjoy delicious lunch on dry riverbanks surrounded by animals peacefully wondering about. And yes, to my very delight Rauha proved to be elephant paradise.

After day-long adventures, it was time to relax a bit and wash the dust off with a glass of chilled wine at the deck of Ruaha Hilltop Lodge while watching the sun paint the vast savannah in a purple blaze of gorgeousness.

As we embark on our next travels lets continue to seek local, organic and ethical means of travel, taking with us memories and leaving only our footprints in the sand...! •

w w w.chogelasafaricamp.com Follow AGA L PHOTOGRAPHY here...

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S h i k...community S h a tours ck Words & pics - Sarah Bergs

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magine the jangle of cowbells, the smell of woodsmoke, the sight of sparkling happy eyes and the waving hands of laughing children as they run alongside your donkey cart. Imagine walking along dusty roads, and seeing how the women push their wheelbarrows of water to the communal village tap, how chickens peck in the yards next to long ears of ‘mielies’.

Imagine trying traditionally brewed beer, or even local ‘pap’ before settling under a big beautiful Marula tree and listening to stories of life in a modern African village.

To get the ‘vibe’ of a village in a way that encompasses your hands, heart and soul ( and feet of course), Shik Shak Community Tours was formed – with a focus on creating a platform for ‘people-first’ tourism that brings funding and exposure to the village way of life. This is a form of pro-poor tourism that is ethical and light on the landscape, choosing to explore via foot, bicycle or even donkey cart.

With funds generated going directly back to the members of the community involved – Shik Shack is all about grassroots community upliftment, and sustainable job creation – while giving you…the intrepid backpacker or wide-eyed traveller the opportunity to see a side of Africa that often goes unseen. To Sarah Bergs, founder of Shik Shack Comunity Tours, South Africa is so much more than just beautiful landscapes or delicious food— it is embodied in the hearts of the people.

“We live in such a land of contrasts, harsh truths, and soft sunsets, that we urge you to come with us to learn and explore and enjoy the heart and soul of our villages through our community tours and experiences” says Sarah.

As funds are generated, Shik Shack is looking to create to a deli ‘kokwane’s kitchen’ offering food from a community garden run by volunteers from the local village—serving traditional fare and fresh salad picked straight from the garden.

While you eat around an open fire, and listen to the sounds of village life... you will feel a part of Africa, and it is that memory that we hope will leave footprints in your heart and an indelible sense that for once, in Africa, you belonged… •

www.shikshacktours.com responsible traveller 61

What’s news...

Polo is changing the lives of Rural Youth one chukka at a time!

Poloafrica, a Laureus Sport for Good Foundation project, recently held a Winter Open Day to showcase their mission at their home base on Uitgedacht Farm, set in the foothills of the spectacular Maluti Mountains in the Eastern Free State.

Poloafrica’s mission is to give economically disadvantaged adults and children the opportunity to participate in equestrian sporting activities, including polo, in a professional environment. Crucial to the success of the programmes’ outcomes are learners being taught to ride and play the game, providing they demonstrate discipline and commitment to the animal and the sport; work hard at school and at the life skills lessons provided during school holidays.

Incrementally Poloafrica is also changing the perception of polo in South Africa away from being a sport enjoyed by only the wealthy and urban privileged few by making the sport more inclusive and encouraging to wealthy blacks who join in on the game.

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“The majority of the development polo players in the country belong to the Poloafrica programme.

Poloafrica teams have numerous wins to their credit in tournaments in Gauteng, Natal and the Free State. There are four adult players, three of whom coach other players and bring on young ponies and one of whom specialises in pony care” explains Catherine Cairns, Founder and Trustee of Poloafrica.

“Recently the scope of equestrian activities offered by the programme has broadened, with the introduction of dressage and show jumping.

Poloafrica serves 8 villages in the surrounding farming community, with a few children visiting during the holidays from across the Lesotho border. The scholars range in age from 6 to 21, all of whom benefit from Poloafrica’s educational and sporting programme. Over 60 ponies are required to make this possible.”

The children in the programme learn a variety of lifeskills, such as art, singing, needlework, beekeeping, carpentry/welding, acrobatics/ self-defence, computer skills and spoken self-

What’s news... expression. They also receive extra tuition in Maths and English, two subjects which present a challenge to rurally educated children in South Africa today. The educational opportunities reach beyond the children; adults in the community also benefit, as they do from the employment opportunities offered by the programme.

Poloafrica is widely known in the local community, affecting many families, and is seen as an important force for good.

Cairns further explains that adult players/coaches are permanent employees and take care of the ponies and the facilities on Uitgedacht Farm, the home of Poloafrica. The children come to the farm on weekends during the school term and six days a week in the holidays. They spend all day on the farm, having riding lessons, pony care tuition and polo practice. Four days a week during the holidays they receive lifeskills lessons. It is an all-absorbing programme, the children are very busy which they enjoy. All children are given transport and homework help for school attendance.

Conscious that the sport globally has an elitist and exclusionary image, and is therefore uninviting

to many ordinary South Africans, Cairns explains that in terms of transformation, the government’s Transformation Charter for South African Sport might have been written with Poloafrica in mind.

The Charter explicitly states that narrow-based efforts to shift the demographic profile of national teams are unsatisfactory short term expedients, which can bring problems in their wake. Instead the Charter encourages transformation in sport through broader community involvement, the creation of development programmes at grassroots levels to deliver facilities and infrastructure to previously deprived communities with the goal of unlocking the potential of black youth in South Africa.

Poloafrica’s strategy delivers against these exact objectives. The programme provides beautiful, first class riding and polo facilities in an under-served area, with extensive community involvement.

With little help it has already developed a robust pipeline of promising young riders and polo players from one of the most disadvantaged parts of the country concludes Cairns. •

www.poloafrica.com

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Image - Greyhound

T R AV E L T I P S f rom the marke t pl a c e‌

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P

lanes are a fantastically efficient way to travel, allowing you to get virtually anywhere you need to at the drop of a hat, or just about. But coach travel has its benefits too, not least of which is that it’s much more affordable, and you’re given a lot more room for your luggage. Great! So says Greyhound Regional Terminal Manager, Srenika Royeppen.

Even with that extra luggage space, I find there are a number of common mistakes travellers make when travelling around South Africa. In order to make your lives that little bit easier, I’ve put together a list of my favourite practical tips to packing your luggage when travelling.

EVERYTHING IN ONE PLACE I can’t stress how important of a step this is.

It’s especially hard to do when you’re packing quickly, running about your house in search of those last minute items. But it’s critical to gather all of the items you want to pack in one place.

That not only means planning ahead, but it will give you an idea of what might be missing and a better sense of what to include.

LIMIT YOUR CLOTHING COLOUR PALETTE You never know what will come of that nice new skirt you’re packing. To save you a lot of hassle and guarantee your clothes always match, try to pick two or three colours and plan all of your outfits around them. That way, you can easily mix and match on the road. And should something go wrong and an item of clothing disappears, is stained or gets creased beyond all reckoning, you need only select something else.

ALWAYS, AND WE MEAN ALWAYS, PACK A SCARF OR SARONG It may seem unnecessary at first, but you’ll thank me later. A sarong can double as a makeshift beach towel, offer precious sun protection, be used as sheets or a makeshift bag, and is just great for carrying stuff around in. It’s a simple piece of material, but its uses make it the perfect item to keep close by. Scarves will do much the same job and even keep the nip out of the air on those colder days.

KEEP EAR PLUGS ON HAND You’re going to regret ignoring this suggestion, only to discover that you’re travelling within responsible traveller 65

earshot of a crying baby, which – let’s be honest – is about a kilometre in any direction. Silence is golden, and this is the only way to guarantee it.

you’d much prefer arriving without the Grand Canyon of creases running down the front of your nice, new shirt.

PACK YOUR RAINCOAT LAST By putting things like raincoats, ponchos and hats at the top of your luggage, they’re always easy to grab should the weather suddenly change. Trust me, fighting for a raincoat tucked in at the bottom of your bag – rain coming down around you – is the perfect way to ruin your day.

A commonly used method is to roll your clothes.

Rolled clothes are far less likely to wrinkle. You might also want to consider packing synthetic fibres, which wrinkle as easily, as opposed to natural fibres like cotton or wool. Natural fibres are also heavier, making travelling a little more work than is strictly necessary.

SHOES MAKE FOR GREAT PACKING BOXES Chargers, underwear, socks and any delicate electronics can be slipped into shoes to not only save space but keep those electronics free from harm.

Whether you roll your clothes or not, sometimes wrinkles just happen. A decent trick to eliminating those frustrating little devils is to hang your clothes the moment you arrive at your destination. The natural force of gravity will remove some of the smaller wrinkles. For the tougher ones, hang your clothes near a shower.

The steam will help release the wrinkles, and all you need to do is enjoy a hot relaxing shower.

ELASTIC BANDS MAKE PACKING ELECTRONICS A JOY Never worry about tangling cables ever again!

Simply use a rubber band to neatly bundle a cord and its device together into a tidy transportable package.

BACK. EVERYTHING. UP If you’re going to pack a laptop, smart device or, perhaps, a portable gaming console, be sure to back their data up. Losing the device is one thing, but to lose your photos, important documents or work material will quickly bring your holiday to an untimely end, or at the very least sour the rest of your trip.

I also recommend making digital and physical copies of things like your ID, driver’s license, paper tickets, your health insurance card, important phone numbers and anything else you might need for your trip. These are not the sorts of things you want to lose.

The perfect place to back data up is a web based email, like Gmail. That way, all you need is access to an internet enabled device, and you’ll always have access to those crucial details and documents.

SPLIT YOUR VALUABLES UP Now that your data is relatively safe, it’s time to safeguard yourself against the unlikely event of a robbery. You don’t want to be caught cash strapped, away from home. To prevent that, split up your bank cards, valuables, cash and credit cards as much as possible. Store them in different bags and various packets on your person.

WRINKLE FREE PACKING Wrinkles never hurt anyone, but sometimes you’re travelling for work or a wedding, and 66 responsible traveller

PLASTIC BAGS DO EVERYTHING Be sure to always pack a few plastic bags. They can be used to store toiletries, wet clothing, dirty laundry or just about anything else you might need to separate from the rest of your luggage.

PLAN IN ADVANCE Perhaps the most important tip of all is to plan in advance, cutting down the fuss and bother you need to go through once you reach your destination. Then you can enjoy the magic of travelling stress free and savour those truly memorable experiences you deserve.n your soul with a trip. After all, travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer.

www.greyhound.co.za NOTE: These travel tips will work when packing for any travel purpose... trains, planes or even automobiles!

Remember that travelling by bus or any other public transport is more fuel efficient thereby creating less fuel emissions...

DID YOU KNOW??

Bangkok was voted as one of The World’s best Cities for Tasty Street Food CNN.com the influential online media website recently named Bangkok as one of the world’s “Best 23 Destinations for street food” and roadside dining.

CNN.com put together an online listing of street food destinations to celebrate the everyday dishes that people buy for lunch and breakfast all over the world. The media giant’s popular website singled out Bangkok’s Chinatown and Yaowarat Road as areas that food lovers should not miss when taking a culinary journey around Thailand’s capital.

Mr. Yuthasak Supasorn, Governor of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) said, “Thailand’s food is well known around the world, but one thing that all visitors agree on is the high quality and tastiness of everyday street food. In Bangkok especially, the food reflects the culture of Thailand and the people who’ve settled here. So you can enjoy fine Chinese street food, Muslim and even Western dishes freshly cooked and sold at great prices. Street food is one of the things that tourists most love about Thailand and it brings them back time after time looking to find new tastes and treats.”

The website listed 23 cities around the world considered to have exemplary street food - with

Bangkok’s listing leading the online report. Other destinations listed include Tokyo, Honolulu, Durban, New Orleans, Hong Kong and Mumbai.

The CNN website quoted advice from Chef Van, of the French brasserie 4Garcons on Bangkok’s Thong Lo Road who recommended two of his favourite dishes for Bangkok’s visitors: “Hoi Thot Nai Mong”, a crispy fried mussel pancake cooked on a charcoal stove by a famous street food vendor in the Yaowarat area, and “Kuai Tieo Kai Soi Sai Nam Pheung”, noodle soup with chicken wing stewed with young egg and pork intestines, famously served in Soi Sai Nam Pheung.

Mr. Yuthasak said, “There are a few more ways to celebrate Thainess than through the kingdom’s food, especially the dishes that people enjoy every day up and down the country. Visitors should not miss the opportunity to try these dishes and to find their favourites. Once you start exploring Thailand’s street food, you’ll find that the infinite variety of tastes and flavours keeps you coming back for more.” www.tourismthailand.org

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DID YOU KNOW??

There is a ‘sunken city’ near Thanda Island in Southern Tanzania The Indian Ocean all to yourself? Not quite. But for scuba divers and snorkelers seeking elbowroom, marine wonders, and even historical ruins beneath the waves, Thanda Island is a private island adventure all its own. Located in the Shungi Mbili Island Marine Reserve of southern Tanzania, Thanda Island offers all things aquatic for families and groups of friends to experience on a sole-use basis, including exclusive guest-only access to a private marine reserve ranging one mile in all directions, except south of the island.

Located in the Shungi Mbili Island Marine Reserve of southern Tanzania, Thanda Island offers all things aquatic for families and groups of friends to experience on a sole-use basis, including exclusive guest-only access to a private marine reserve ranging one mile in all directions, except south of the island.

an exclusive-use zone that can be explored with snorkel and mask straight from the beach. The Mafia Island Diving Centre on the neighbouring Mafia Island offers equipment, private instructions and dive excursions on a private dhow within the Mafia marine reserve for water enthusiasts of all skill levels, even those lacking PADI certification.

Thanda Island is one of but a few truly private tropical islands around the world. The island is part of the magnificent beach residence of entrepreneurs Christin and Dan Olofsson, the largest private Swedish investors and philanthropists in Africa, as well as the sister property of Thanda Safari, a highly regarded Leading Hotel of the World in Zululand, South Africa. Off-grid, solar-powered, environmentally sensitive, thoroughly relaxing, and lots of fun, the island experience plays out in total seclusion across 20 acres, with three-quarters of a mile of coastline with a pristine white sand beach.

Private snorkel sites to be explored with the professionally trained Thanda aquatic guide also await in close proximity to Thanda Island. The five main sites are named for their characteristic attractions, such as “sponge city” or “coral gardens”. The sites average 11 feet in depth.

Around Thanda Island divers can explore an array of sites, including fantastic spots off the coast of Nyororo, one of the three marine reserves near Thanda Island, and off Mafia Island in Chole Bay.

For divers and water sports enthusiasts, the highlights begin just offshore. The island is surrounded by its own private coral reef within 68 responsible traveller

The world-class diving waters off nearby Mafia Island are also near a “sunken city”. Recently discovered and still under research, the site has been speculated as anything from the ruins of a small Portuguese port to remnants of the legendary city of Rhapta, first mentioned in

the Greco-Roman Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, dated 50 AD. The sunken city includes “many thousands of square and oblong blocks” according to coverage posted earlier this year on Seaunseen.com. “Some have fallen right off the foundation and others are still leaning against it.” The age of porites corals alongside the walls puts the blocks underwater for at least 550 years.

The depth varies from 2 meters to 10 meters, depending on tides.

Of course, there is plenty more for guests to enjoy in the Indian Ocean around Thanda Island.

Sailboats, stand-up paddleboards, and single as well as double kayaks are available for active guests. Also to the south, a powerboat zone outside of the island’s marine reserve is perfect for water skiing, jet-skiing, wake-boarding and tubing. Big game fishing from a 28-foot reef runner cat is available off the coast of Mafia Island.

A favourite is the sunsets cruise in a James-Bondstyle 49-feet mahogany speedboat.

Conservation is a priority at Thanda Island. Depending on the season, guests may be able to watch green and hawksbill turtles nesting and their eggs hatching; sight and swim with gentle whale sharks that congregate just south of the island from October to March; and if very lucky maybe spot endangered dugong while diving with qualified instructors. Guests can also discover the local Swahili sea-faring culture on Mafia Island and picnic on a neighbouring atoll.

www.thandaisland.com responsible traveller 69

responsible travel

There’s so much to discover in Cape Town & the Western Cape. Why not try and make a difference while you’re here on your adventure? Be part of the “Green Travel” revolution when you choose and buy eco-friendly products. Explore with a tour operator that is socially and environmentally responsible. Research and know the culture of the community you are visiting so that you can respect their dignity and privacy – remember to ask for permission before you take pics. Don’t pick the flowers, or there won’t be any left when you visit again.

Be inspired to help future generations discover more.

www.discoverctwc.co.za discoverctwc @discoverctwc discoverctwc #discoverctwc