Responsible Traveller mag - edition 4 - 2017 by Responsible Traveller

R E S P O N S I B L E e dition 4 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2017

be the difference

Experiential travel... conservation, culture and tradition

w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a

The only 5-star cage diving experience in South Africa. More than just a dive, our biologists share their knowledge & adventures on each trip!

Experience the Marine Big Five in their natural environment.

Focused on the protection of African Penguins & sea birds.

Discover & Protect - in partnership with the Dyer Island Conservation Trust.

www.DICT.org.za

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Welcome to another edition of Responsible Traveller. In this edition we celebrate Experiential Travel...

We explore some wonderful destinations and experience what they have to offer - from the culture and traditions of the Zululand coast, to the wonders of slack packing the Crayfish Trail and exploring Italy and Austria the sustainable way. We discover that there’s luxury to be found in the Helderberg, with its wonderful wine tasting and fabulous spas… and that conservation and communities can benefit from one another at &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve. And keeping in mind that with summer comes time on the beach and the ocean, we take a long hard look at marine pollution – say NO to plastic, especially those straws in your fabulously fruity cocktails. As we say farewell to 2017, let’s consider our blessings and look back with gratitude.. Take a moment to think about our impact on the environment and the people we come into contact with - consider being a little kinder and live with a deeper sense of love and appreciation for those around us, not just our nearest and dearest, but those less fortunate too. And as it says in the scriptures, ‘There is greater blessing in giving than in receiving’ so be abundantly blessed this Christmas season! Let’s celebrate the successes of 2017with gratitude and step into 2018 with joy and anticipation - let it be your BEST year yet ... Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

Tessa Magazine Information edition 4- 2017 Publisher / Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published bi-monthly

Cover Image: Experience Zulu traditions at Shakaland in KZN pic - Tessa Buhrmann

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents Regulars: Comment

Being a Responsible Traveller 05

Destinations & Places to Stay: Italy and Austria, the sustainable way 20 Luxury Helderberg

Exploring the Zululand Coast 60 The Crayfish Trail on the West Coast Way wild route 74

Conservation & Community: A land reclaimed and a people empowered 06 Marine Pollution Kills 32

Maasai Women leading change

Sustainability: Sustainable Tourism, the ‘it’ trend for 2018

Recycle

Cape Town, surviving the water crisis this summer 56

News:

No time to waste

African Responsible Tourism Awards 2018

Kwandwe Ecca Lodge wins overall at Safari Awards

I AM JOBURG to help local SMMEs

Icarus Trophy heads to Africa

Afrika Tikkun, developing South Africa’s Youth

www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy. • Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims. • Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods. • Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location. • If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair. • Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different. • Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes. • Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate. • Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge. • Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals. • Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence. • Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you. • Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy. • Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language. • When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

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A LAND RECLAIMED...

and a people empowered words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

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stood overlooking the vlei, where a lone giraffe ambled along, pausing occasionally to sample the tender shoots of a Senegalia (previously known as Acacia). Steam rose from my safari coffee and the early morning sun warmed my skin. ‘Another glorious day in Africa’, I thought, ‘at least it is… now’. Behind me lay evidence of what this camp once was. The giraffe skulls, a section of vertebra, and an antelope skull all evidence of the hunting camp that once existed under this canopy of trees. 08 responsible traveller

We stop on what was once called the ‘boundary road’, and walk along what was once the fenceline. We hear a tractor coming… Musa Mbuyazi, our tracker, tells us that it is collecting the roles of fencing and poles to be used by local community members to fence off their crops and livestock. Musa speaks from the heart when he tells of how the community benefit from &Beyond Phinda’s role in conservation and community development – he grew up in the local community and has experienced the positive benefits of this involvement. We were visiting &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve to find out more about the recent addition of another section of community owned land to their traversing rights. Being no stranger to the concept of working with &Beyond, the Makhasa Community were more than happy to continue their close relationship with &Beyond by leasing the land they had recently acquired through a successful land claim that saw the land returned to its ancestral owners. It is &Beyond Phinda’s commitment to community empowerment - particularly through the efforts of the Africa Foundation (&Beyond’s social development arm, providing education, health care and infra-structural improvements across Africa) that has resulted in successful relationship-building with the Phinda community. It is these relationships that have been crucial to the reserve’s success and proves that when communities surrounding conservation areas truly feel the benefit of responsible tourism, they too will support ongoing conservation and biodiversity of pristine reserves for the benefit of future generations. Musa tells us that the sustainable means of income for his community has meant that the land is no longer used for subsistence farming or consumptive hunting, and that the income generated has lessened the need for many families to relocate to the cities. Giraffe skulls

He tells that schools have been built and that the youth in his community can now be educated. That they have a place where one meal a day is provided, where libraries offer an escape through reading and where disadvantaged children are given uniforms. He tells that bursaries are offered for studies, and that there is a college offering computer skills and HIV awareness… He proudly tells us that in 2013 he started working at Phinda as a barman. And in line with &Beyond’s philosophy of promotion from within, he was soon promoted to a butler position. And responsible traveller 09

a short two years later he found his passion in the bush as a tracker… and hopefully in the not too distant future as a ranger – with training provided by &Beyond’s Nkwazi ranger training centre. Other benefits include an increase in employment opportunities, both within Phinda and in the community. Many have been empowered by the Foundation’s skills development programmes to become successful entrepreneurs, e.g. the Mduku Builders’ Association was formed by one successful group of students who were taught various house building skills and are now equipped to work on projects for Phinda as well as in the surrounding community. And the Dongwelethu Poultry Project, which was established as a cooperative and provides chicken and eggs into the local community, but whose objective is to grow the business to a point where they can be the procurement source for Phinda’s lodges. Musa spots leopard tracks in the soft red soil along the fence-line… ‘a Mom and her cubs’ he

Musa Mbuyazi, our tracker

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tells us, ‘probably the leopard we heard calling the night before’. I recall that distinctive call that sounds like someone sawing wood, so close, but yet so far! Perhaps tonight, I muse. But now we have to hurry, Musa has an appointment with guests from the USA, to take them on a tour of his community. I fondly recall a previous visit to Phinda where I was shown around the immaculately kept school grounds of Mdudla Primary School by a very proud Mr. Sangweni, the headmaster. I smile remembering how a group of little ones sang with delight about traffic lights – ‘green means go, and red means stop’ all accompanied by very animated actions! Another community success story is the 24-hour Mduku Clinic, which attends to the medical needs of thousands of patients a month, and has seen the standards of healthcare in the in the area improve dramatically – the closest clinic was 30 kilometres away, not easy with limited public transport. And the Khulani Special School, where the education needs of children with disabilities

ranging from paralysis to hearing and visual impairment. It is the only school within a 300 km radius that looks after children with special needs, and is an absolute blessing for families from neighbouring communities who cannot afford to give their children adequate care. Thanks to the Africa Foundation, these and many other projects have benefited the local Phinda communities by ‘working with, not working for’ the community. As much as we enjoyed hearing about all the success stories, no visit to Phinda is complete without a bucket load of memorable experiences.These started with a seamless checkin, accompanied by cappuccino and homemade cookies – had the hour been a little later it would have been bubbly or a G&T. After a breather in our luxurious suite and a light lunch, we set of on our first afternoon game drive – glass water bottle in hand. I love the fact that &Beyond are bottling their own water… as much as potable water is of drinking quality

in South Africa, many international guests still prefer water bottles. With Phinda’s slice of Africa boasting seven distinct habitats – woodland, grassland, wetland and forest, interspersed with mountain ranges, river courses, marshes and pans, there’s a wealth of diversity to be found… from the large African Elephant and the tiny secretive Suni antelope that inhabits the sand forest, to the spectacular Crowned Eagle and the seemingly insignificant blue waxbill. Numerous hours were spent in the presence of Lyle, our experienced ranger, and our wonderful tracker Musa as they divulged the secrets of the bush… told tales from the almost invisible tracks in the sand, identified birds and frogs by their call and trees and shrubs by their leaves, bark, fruit and flowers. Each one perfectly created to fulfill its part in this diverse ecosystem. We followed elephants, watched a white rhino graze peacefully, and laughed at warthogs as they ran off, their tails in the air like little aerials…

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‘With Phinda’s slice of Africa boasting seven distinct habitats, there’s a wealth of diversity to be found...’ 12 responsible traveller

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admired the long lashes of a beautiful giraffe and the flash of colour from a malachite kingfisher. We watched a dung beetle labouriously roll a ball of dung, careful to protect the eggs it laid within… and watched zebra, wildebeest, impala, nyala and more. We walked an ancient sea and marveled the perfection of an ammonite - a fossilised extinct group of marine molluscs. We sipped G&T’s while watching the sun set over the savannah, heard the call of a fish eagle as it soared overhead and watched the staff dance and sing in celebration of a birthday while dining under the stars. We swam, we napped, we wined and we dined… and we laughed, loved and experienced – all in the space of a couple of days.

‘We walked an ancient sea and marveled the perfection of an ammonite - a fossilised extinct group of marine molluscs...’ It was our last evening and we were beginning to think that the big cats were eluding us this time… that was until Lyle hears on the radio that a young leopard had been spotted, and we were next in line to view her. &Beyond has a strict policy of limiting the number of vehicles at a sighting – this adds to the guest experience and ensures that the animal is not disturbed. There she lay, seemingly unaware, and glowing under the gentle red light. Lyle tells us that she mated recently… the surrounding hills with their rocky outcrops offering an ideal place for her to have her cubs. Leopards are beautiful cats, sought after for their skin and as hunting trophies. Thankfully with the addition of the new section of community land, her offspring will be able to find territories of their own, safe from the threat of a hunter’s bullet and in the care of a company and a community that have her best interests, and those of future generations at heart. •

www.andbeyond.com Click Here To Read: 101 things to see on safari at &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve 14 responsible traveller

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SUSTAINABLE TOURISM

Sustainable Tourism the ‘it’ trend for 2018

ustainable travel is one of the most important, and not to mention coolest trends for 2018. It proves that right now, travellers are making responsible choices and actively seeking out more meaningful holiday experiences. Sustainable travel is really all about making simple choices to lessen your impact on the environment. It’s about being conscious of your “footprint” on the world and getting involved in tourism based activities that encourage the preservation of our natural and cultural resources.

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SUSTAINABLE TOURISM

What’s really great, is that this is a catalyst trend that has prompted better management of worldwide attractions and resources by tourism bodies. It has also encouraged more travel companies and operators to start offering experiences that align with these principles. “It’s really easy to be a responsible traveller. An even easier way to go about it, is by using

a travel company that is proactive in their social responsibility and one that promotes opportunities where you can travel responsibly,” says Theresa Szejwallo, MD of Trafalgar. “There are many companies that are moving in this direction. We have realised the importance of providing experiences that are easily accessible for those wanting to leave the world a better place.” responsible traveller 17

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Theresa Szejwallo also provided a roundup of ways to get involved in the sustainable tourism movement: 1.Go for Group Travel Sit back and relax as you’re driven through the rolling hills of the Bordeaux countryside with its charming villages. Travelling in a group by coach produces far less CO2 emissions than other forms of travel including cruise ship, rail and especially flying. Right now, most of tourism’s carbon dioxide emissions come from transportation so you can do your part by opting for group travel, which means less cars on the road and the benefit of a shared travel experience with like-minded travellers. 2. Get hands on Sustainable travellers want to literally get their hands dirty while learning about the world and building a healthy relationship with the earth. Join the “farm-totable” movement at O’o Farm in Hawaii. Here, you can get fully understand how food gets to our plates the natural way with minimal waste, and low environmental impact. Or, In Furano you can visit a certified organic ‘Eco Farm’. Take a walk with the farm owner and to learn about the work whilst sampling some of the fresh produce. 3. Stay in eco-friendly Many hotels and lodges are stepping up to the mark and utilising green practices, whilst limiting their carbon footprint, and managing their waste effectively. These accommodation options offer incredible experiences, often intimately set close to nature. Just imagine waking up to the sound of the surf crashing on the beach at the eco-friendly Punakaiki Resort in New Zealand or, enjoy all the comforts of a luxury hotel with sustainable hospitality at Villa Blanca set in the Cloud Forest of Costa Rica. 4. Support those locals Sustainable travel is as much about protecting the natural environment as much as it is preserving culture. Switch out the tacky souvenirs for handmade arts and crafts and supporting local communities. Visit the village of Natonchan where the community itself is an eco-tourism project. Interact with the local people and meet the elders who will teach you about their doll making and their traditional mud soaked clothes. 5. Go the road less travelled Travel to natural areas where the proceeds go towards protecting the surrounding environment. This normally entails venturing out to places that are not overrun with massive groups of tourists. Head out through the Tortuguero National Park, to view the Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica or live like a real life “mountie” at Banff National Park in Canada. •

words & pics supplied. 18 responsible traveller

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM

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italy & austria...

the sustainable way words & pics - Dawn Jorgensen

In Venice, the view from my hotel room towards the bridge over the Grand Canal.

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’d been to Italy on two previous occasions… it’s one of those countries that feels instantly like home to me; warm natured and welcoming of visitors, while holding strong to its authenticity, traditions and distinctly delicious cuisine, not to mention skilled artisans, culture and identity so ingrained in its cobbled streets and rolling Tuscan hills. It’s a destination that highlights the value of the individuals you may meet, and their stories, as wherever you go you find them and the passion with which they live their lives, and practice their craft. All things that I delight in, yet they leave me slightly protective of my favourite places, torn between promoting them in a bid to offer the support they deserve and need, yet wanting to keep them safe and protected, never to be ruined by too much tourism. A dilemma familiar to by many conscious travellers. Which means that an invitation from Trafalgar and the TreadRight Foundation to join a media trip to Italy and Austria that would showcase their commitment to sustainable travel

practices, was one I was thrilled to accept. It offered an opportunity for me to gain a deeper understanding and take lessons in travel that matters; as we explored each destination, its history and culture, through enriching experiences, while recognising that it is our responsibility to help protect the areas we visit and the world around us. Trafalgar are known to lead the way in sustainable tourism partnerships and on every one of their trips, work hard to ensure that each

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place they spend time in is positively impacted. A difficult balance to strike and one that takes much commitment, yet in turn is inspiring their onboard guests to adopt the same philosophy. TreadRight by background is a not-forprofit foundation established by The Travel Corporation, which through Trafalgar and the other brands gives financial support to sustainable tourism projects around the world. Their ethos is ‘invest in local communities, preserve the environment and partner for a better future’. There could not have been a better suited theme for this trip, as far as I was concerned. Adding to the goodness, we were joined for the first few days by TreadRight’s sustainability ambassador, Céline Cousteau (granddaughter of famed Jacques Cousteau), as well as global CEO Gavin Tollman. With 2017 the United Nations World Tourism Organisation’s International Year of Sustainable Tourism, this was to become an anchor travel experience, one that gave me lessons to take forward as I ever centred my own travel focus around this essential practice. The Column of Marcus Aurelius, a Roman victory column in Piazza Colonna, Rome.

ROME, ITALY Arriving into Rome from the UK, Malaysia, Canada, the USA, Australia and New Zealand, the group of just on 20 global media checked in to the Grand Hotel Tiberio where our Travel Director Tony Emmerson was waiting to greet us. Without delay, after dropping our bags and checking in, we headed into the city for a walking tour with local specialist Ilaria who took us to some of the eternal city’s iconic landmarks; the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain among the highlights, St Peter’s Basilica as our backdrop, cobbled streets and bustling street cafes alongside gold-tinged buildings further adding to the ambience. Dinner that night was with Chef Fabio Bongianni, a local Italian and friend of Trafalgar who hosted us in his private apartment on Tiber Island, a space that formerly belonged to film director Michelangelo Antonioni and once played home Marlon Brando. Here with Celine Cousteau and CEO Gavin Tollman for company, we ate our way through numerous courses of Italian delicacies and home made pasta, before receiving a gift of his The Via del Corso, one of the main streets in the historical centre of Rome.

The Fountain of Neptune located at the north end of the Piazza Navona, Rome.

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Fabiolous Cooking Day book while limoncello and Amaretto were served. Fabio even showed us a passion-filled scene from the Italian movie L’Avventura, which was shot in the very room he now cooks in. What a start, and yes, this is how you unlock a city and it’s living and lasting treasures. PERUGIA, ITALY Next we were in Perugia, the capital of Umbria, and possibly my favourite region in Italy, where we spent the morning with Marta at the Museum-Workshop of handwoven artistic textile. Here Marta is the 4th generation of women passionately preserving the ancient tradition of weaving, using looms from the 17th century and a practice handed down over thousands of years. Set in an old church, she talked us through her work with an infectious passion. Marta puts her whole self into the art, a tablecloth taking as long as 20 days to create. We learnt about the history of the craft, bringing an emotional respect to her artisan story and its grounding significance as well as how the TreadRight Foundation supports her.

The roof of the Basilica of Santa Maria in the Trastevere district, and one of the oldest churches of Rome.

After that a walk in the rain through the beautiful old city, and time to take in the views across the mountainous region as the clouds cleared. That night, before being tucked up in the Sangallo Palace Hotel, we all enjoyed the sunset from the elevated position of a hilltop town. SIENA, ITALY Scenes from our next stop in the UNESCO World Heritage city of Siena where a local specialist pointed out some of the main sights to us before allowing free time for exploration. I took to the centre of the medieval city with it’s intricate cathedral, red brick buildings and fanshaped square. In the heart, Piazza del Campo is the site of the Palazzo Pubblico, the Gothic town hall, and Torre del Mangia, a slender 14thcentury tower with sweeping views from its distinctive white crown. Here we stopped for a pastry and coffee at a side street cafe, some people watching too, before walking through the shops selling items typical to the region and further indulging in some home-made gelato. From here we joined the Lenzi family for a Be My Guest meal and a Chianti and olive oil

The famed Trevi Fountain where it is said if you throw a coin in over your shoulder, it guarantees your return to Rome.

The Fonte Gaia, the fountain of joy, with a she-wolf on Piazza del Campo, which is the symbol of Siena.

The ornate gothic style Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption in Siena. responsible traveller 23

tasting on their Tuscan wine farm Fattoria Di Petroio, which is located on the ancient road between Siena and Florence. The Pallini-Lenzi family has owned the property since the 19th century and Gian Luigi Lenzi, who is an esteemed academic and doctor who works as a Professor of Neurology in Rome, and his American wife Pamela are actively involved in wine production, producing about 4 000 bottles of Chianti Classico annually. Pamela was born in Seattle and arrived in Florence in 1965 to continue her studies in Italian language, but also to find the roots of her beloved Italian grandparents. She immediately fell in love with Tuscany and consequently a Tuscan and chose to remain and make Italy her permanent home. A decadent lunch in their cellar and long chats about romance and dreams, was followed by a walk through the gardens and time spent with their glorious dogs. That evening we checked into Relais La Cappuccina – a Trafalgar Authentic Accommodation built on the site of a Capuchin Monastery it was constructed in Art Nouveau style by a local nobleman. Here we gathered around the pool for sundowners overlooking the towers of San Gimingano. SAN GIMINGANO, ITALY The truly spectacular San Gimignano was next on our route, catching a first look at sunrise, we spent the morning walking the beautifully preserved medieval village that was once home to 72 towers, with 13 still standing tall today. This is a Tuscan rooftop village at its most wonderful, with wonderful art, leather works, charcuterie, cheese, pastries and olive oil for sale. As well as fine wines from the region. Also on the main square you’ll find the world’s best gelato at Gelateria del Dondoli. The lifetime calling of Sergio Dondoli, his flavours on offer include saffron and creamy spice. There’s also one called Michelle, created especially for Michelle that’s delicious. Heaven really, as the man himself will engage you with his passion for doing things right. Before heading to Venice, we made a bonus stop to meet Princesses Natalia and Irina Guicciardini Strozzi – who are said to be direct descendants of Mona Lisa and have inherited over a thousand years of tradition and history which they proudly preserve at their Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi estate outside San Gimignano. 24 responsible traveller

Wine tasting with Princesses Natalia and Irina Guicciardini Strozzi.

‘With 2017 the United Nations World Tourism Organisation’s International Year of Sustainable Tourism, this was to become an anchor travel experience, one that gave me lessons to take forward as I ever centred my own travel focus around this essential practice....’

Views across Tuscany’s 13th Century hilltop village San Gimignano

Sergio Dondoli of the world famous Gelateria del Dondoli inSan Gimignano

Marta Cucchia who follows a passion handed down to her by her great-grandmother and on antique wooden looms creates traditional patterned textiles, in Umbria’s capital Perugia. responsible traveller 25

The Punta della Dogana, an art museum in Venice.

Standing among the bright coloured houses Collecting of Burano, insects Venice

We took a ride up to the top of the land, before descending 15m underground into the belly of their wine production and barrel maturation cellar, before settling around a table to sample their fine wines and hear stories of the Pope drinking their wine and how Natalia as a top ballerina who once danced around the world. VENICE, ITALY Venice needs to be seen. No book, movie or photograph could have prepared me for the beauty of this city. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surreal in every way and I am so grateful to have immersed myself into it. 26 responsible traveller

To have walked the streets and cruised the Grand Canal at sunset, admired the art and intricate detail as I worked my way through the narrow streets and across some of the 450+ bridges, fed the pigeons on Saint Marksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Piazza and marvelled at the candy coloured homes of Burano. Arriving to check in to the Bellini Venezia Hotel for two nights, we headed to dinner by private water taxi as the skies turned orange and the light softened on the historic buildings that lined the grand canals. The next day had us walking the streets and crossing bridges in

A view towards Piazza San Marco with the Campanile bell tower from the sea.

A gondola takes tourists down the Grand Canal, Venice.

‘Venice needs to be seen. No book, movie or photograph could have prepared me for the beauty of this city...’

a bid to see as much as possible of this city, understandably known to be one of the most beautiful in the world. Our Local Specialist took us to a centuries-old food market and through the narrow ‘calle’ or streets. We saw how the locals shop for food and learned more about the regional cuisine, admiring the beautiful architecture and visiting Marco Polo’s house. Did you know that there are 118 islands in Venice, over 400 bridges, hundreds of secret responsible traveller 27

gardens and 500 gondolas, when once there were 10 000 or more.

with love locks and coffee shops that served the most delicious apple strudel.

From there a boat trip to Burano Island, famed for its coloured houses and lace making tradition, where we enjoyed a traditional meal before taking time to photograph the bright mix of colours that makes it so picturesque.

Everywhere there were familiar scenes from the The Sound of Music movie, which was filmed here. I loved our hotel, set in the country and overlooking a lake. An 18th century former family estate of the Prince Archbishop of Salzburg and a member of the Historic Hotels of Europe it is beautifully romantic, with a modern flair in the cafe and lounges.

VILLACH, AUSTRIA We crossed into Austria and the alps were covered in a sprinkling of snow, the fields bright green and the air crisp and fresh. Just outside Villach we visited Kloster Wernberg, which is home to 60 sisters in the order of the Missionary Sisters of the Precious Blood in their Monastery with a history of important missionary work in South Africa, Congo, Peru and beyond. The sisters are active worldwide in education and in youth work and see their order as pivotal to improving the lives of women and children around the world, as well as having a commitment to peace and justice and a responsible approach to the environment. A Catholic women’s order, they were founded by the Austrian, Franz Pfanner Trappistenabt in South Africa in 1885. Yet another connection for me. Our Trafalgar Travel Be My Guest experience here included insight into their essential work in the local community – specifically with the influx of refugees, on their substantial farm and with the retreats and sustainable practice workshops that they offer here. Lunch was served in the Angel Hall, with 20 angels watching over us, after which we were joined by more of the sisters for chats, laughter and a walk up to their shop to buy some of their produce. Staying in Romantik Hotel Post in Villach, I took a walk along the river and recognised the privilege of being in a whole new country. SALZBURG, AUSTRIA Our trip built up with one destination more inviting and beautiful than the next, our last night having us at the magnificent and historically significant Schloss Leopoldskron outside Salzburg. We took a walking tour in the city which is the birth place of Mozart and home to the impressive Hohensalzburg Castle that sits atop the Festungsberg. There was a bridge covered 28 responsible traveller

At Schloss Leopoldskron we took a tour with the charming manager Daniel Szelényin, wearing his hand-monogrammed mohair socks under his short Bavarian lederhosen. He told us how our visit, and Trafalgar’s support, helps fund the hotel’s continuous care and periodic restoration and how in the 3,5 years he’s been there, his focus has been on training the staff and implementing effective

conservation methods. He brought to life the magnificence and history of the grounds and buildings before we paused for a last glass of Champagne overlooking the lake, heading through to our last dinner together in the dining room. After that I couldn’t wait to retreat to my beautiful warm room, finding it one of the best styled of all those I’ve stayed in.

art, food, hospitality, architecture and scenery enhancing every bit of the way.

LAST LOOK BEFORE I LEAVE...

How grateful I am to have seen this done in such beautiful places. •

As I boarded my plane from Salzburg to Frankfurt and home, I realised that once again my time with Trafalgar had rewarded richly.

As conscious travellers, it remains our responsibility to help protect the places we travel to and the world around us, while creating friendships and partnerships that ensure a better future for all.

www.theincidentaltourist.com First published in:

I’d been allowed experiences I would unlikely have been able to give myself, and met inspiring families and individuals who are the heartbeat of their villages and cities. I’d taken valuable lessons in how travel can have a positive impact on the communities we visit, while discovering the best of their culture, The view across the lake and towards the snow-capped mountains from Schloss Leopoldskron in Salzburg.

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DAWN”S PERSONAL HIGHLIGHTS AND REFLECTIONS... •

The way our Travel Director Tony was there to look after us throughout, equally informative and professional, filling in the details as we went, answering a hundred questions, offering daily treats, ensuring smooth hotel check-ins and that the many special requests were met. Yet having that balanced with local specialists in each city, unlocking their insider details.

•

The fact that even though we were travelling as a group, we were allowed much free time to explore on our own, or find a place to be introspective about the experiences we were enjoying. Reaffirming that it is possible to enjoy ‘solo travel’ within a group.

•

The Be My Guest experiences, meeting and eating in the homes of locals, will always make for lasting and meaningful memories and offers an invaluable depth to the country. Make sure that when booking your Trafalgar trip, one or more of these are included.

•

Staying in Venice may be more expensive than staying on the outskirts, but there’s an undeniable magic to walking the streets late at night, taking in the views of the water taxis and gondolas on the canals first thing in the morning, and having the luxury of this dream city to yourself (well almost), before all the day visitors arrive. FUN FACT – Venice saw 30 million commuter tourists in 2016, and 4,5 million overnight tourists. Now that is significant!

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A trip in a gondola can cost as much as 100 Euro for 20 minutes, which means that a shared water taxi may be the more affordable way to cruise the canals.

•

There is now WIFI on the Trafalgar coaches, so while on the road between stops and attractions, you have time to touch base with the world – or in my case share your love for it – without having to search out a cafe or restaurant to accommodate this need. I found this meant when I was back walking the streets, listening to my guide or stopped for a fabulous hot chocolate (more likely prosecco), my focus was entirely on the moment. The ‘admin’ done.

•

Of course meeting Céline Cousteau and learning more about the essential work she does with TreadRight and through the films she makes and stories she tells. And feeling proudly South African on the night of her presentation when she showed a video of her visit to Bushmans Kloof, and all in the group where in awe of the beauty of my country. Feeding the ever hungry pigeons on Piazza San Marco, Venice.

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•

The incredible Libreria Acqua Alta book shop in Venice, which is a treasure trove and home to three very characterful attention seeking cats. As well as the library in the historic palace at Schloss Leopoldskron, built by Max Reinhardt and floor to ceiling beautiful books with leather couches and warm tapestry carpets adding to the charm.

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Meeting the sisters at the Kloster, it brought home all those convent school days.

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This was my second Trafalgar trip and I am even more won over to the idea of a guided holiday with a group, there are so many perks. Not only is travel hassle free with all activity and restaurant bookings taken care of, but things like check in at hotels and those little reminders about dietary requirements and special interests, are all taken care of and you have the privilege of pure immersement into the experience.

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The people you meet, always. In the country, and in the group.

NOTE: Dawn was invited by Trafalgar to learn more about their commitment to sustainable travel practices and the work being done by the TreadRight foundation. They generously hosted her throughout. This itinerary was specifically designed for their media group and is not available as a standard Trafalgar itinerary. However, they have amazing Italy and Austria options available. If you’re considering a Trafalgar holiday, be sure to select a Country Explorer trip which includes Be My Guest and Insider Experiences... where you’ll meet the locals and share their stories. You’ll dine with local families in their homes, learn how to cook regional dishes, and share a glass or two with winemakers at their vineyards; giving you a deeper understanding of their lives and history. You’ll come away with a deeper appreciation of everything it has to offer... not to mention some extraordinary memories.

‘Food tastes much better when it’s shared with local people who have a story to tell..’

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#MarinePollutionKills

CONSERVATION PROFILE

Lucky, a female great white shark entangled in fishing line - read her story on pg 39

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very piece of trash has a human face behind it’ is the message that the Dyer Island Conservation Trust keeps repeating. Every day more and more trash is contaminating and polluting our sea. It can drift for thousands of miles into some remote and previously pristine areas. According to international organisation Ocean Conservancy, in 1950, 1.7 million tons of plastic were produced. That figure is now over 300 million tons today. 250 million metric tons will make its way into the oceans by 2025. The environmental damage is in the billions, but more importantly are all the animals that are affected by this. Many species – seabirds, turtles, whales, dolphins etc - are ingesting plastic debris and many of these species are threatened with extinction.

Image - Hennie Otto ©

‘E

CONSERVATION PROFILE

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

‘Working together to reduce our ecological footprint and save our environment’. Words - Brenda du Toit, Dyer Island Conservation Trust Pics - Marine Dynamics & DICT

The DYER ISLAND CONSERVATION TRUST engages in many beach clean ups with local school groups and volunteers. Data is logged on each clean up to affect changes where problems are identified. “We teach the message of where trash originates from and spread the message of reduce, reuse and recycle to ultimately reduce our ecological footprint. We recycle our own waste and encourage suppliers to use less plastic,” says Pinkey Ngewu, DICT educator. Environmental Education is a key component for the Trust with dedicated marine lessons and beach clean ups with the eco schools groups of Masakhane and other local schools.

with the Overstrand Municipality, DICT placed the first twenty bins in strategic areas along the Gansbaai coastline. In time, the project was embraced by WESSA’s Blue Flag beach programme and so the reach along South African’s coastline began.

AN ICON FOR MARINE POLLUTION – THE FISHING LINE BIN

Now with the support of governmental organisations and non-profits, over 600 bins are creating public awareness of the negative impacts of fishing line debris and encouraging fishermen and beach walkers to correctly dispose of line. This is a difficult material to recycle as it is often in various bits and pieces and bulk is required to effectively do anything with it. There is one recycler in Somerset West and they use 30% recycled monofilament in weed eater line.

Monofilament fishing line is one of the most destructive as it is not biodegradable and is the cause of death for many seabirds and other marine animals. The unique fishing line bin, implemented by the Dyer Island Conservation Trust in 2010, has a key role to play in educating people about marine pollution. Wilfred Chivell, founder of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, first saw this idea in Florida, USA, and realised the need in South Africa. Together

The material for the bins is sponsored by DPI Plastics as arranged by Plastics SA. THE INTERNATIONAL MARINE VOLUNTEER PROGRAMME of DICT’s eco-tourism partner MARINE DYNAMICS is the team that does the assembly and most of the monitoring and cleaning in Gansbaai. All bin GPS positions are taken to create a map of where the bins are in South Africa. The bins can also be used at inland dams and rivers where fishing takes place.

Fishing Line Bins waiting to be distributed

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Monofilament fishing line is one of the most destructive as it is not biodegradable and is the cause of death for many seabirds and other marine animals...â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

An entanglment of discarded fishing line responsible traveller 35

CONSERVATION PROFILE INTERNATIONAL COASTAL CLEAN UP DAY Every September, the world unites in a coastal clean-up day initiative. Data collected from this day feeds into a national and international database with Ocean Conservancy who started this global action. This year the Dyer Island Conservation Trust partnered with Volkswagen, Marine Dynamics, International Marine Volunteers and the Overstrand Municipality in support of International Coastal Clean Up Day. In Gansbaai, a few groups united to work in different areas. DICT’s group of 39 including our environmental education group (DEEP) tackled the Gansbaai caravan park area, moving towards the Gansbaai tidal pool, a distance of 1.5km. “Together we collected 21 bags of trash totalling 55kgs. The primary items we collected were condoms (152), straws/stirrers (892) and plastic bottle caps (554). Other high items were cigarette butts (340) and food wrappers (314). These findings are consistent with international stats on prime marine pollution offenders. The condom problem is along our valuable coastline and is a direct action of the illegal abalone poaching in the area. It is believed the condoms are used to keep cell phones protected. This in just one hour of cleaning,” added Pinkey. All data contributes to an international database helping identify trends and contributing to global solutions. Volkswagen together with Dyer Island Conservation Trust, a long-standing partnership under the #VW4Good initiative took the clean

up a step further this year in order to create more awareness for the ocean’s current peril. VW commissioned artists from Junk A New to utilise the trash collected from this year’s International Coastal Clean Up Day to use as materials to reinvent them, turning trash into treasure and create a spectacular festive light installation. This installation went up at the enviro tent at the Hermanus Whale Festival and helped highlight the conservation efforts of Dyer Island Conservation Trust together with the support of VW.

AFRICAN MARINE WASTE NETWORK The African Marine Waste Network (AMWN) was launched July 2016 for the 38 coastal and island states of Africa: It is the first Network of its kind to focus on preventing marine pollution in Africa. The Network will provide an active platform for collaboration, resource and knowledge sharing within countries and across borders in Africa, and to find solutions to Africa’s marine waste problem that cater to African circumstances and cultures. This is an African contribution to solving a global crisis. The inaugural African Marine Waste Conference 2017 in Port Elizabeth was the first meeting point for the Network, where delegates defined the future direction of the Network as well as collaborated on developing the “Marine Waste Strategy: Guide to Action for Africa”, a strategy plan for tackling and alleviating Africa’s waste problems.

“Individually we are one drop, together we are an ocean” RYUNOSUKE SATORO

Beach clean-ups with school groups

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

Junk A Newâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s festive light installation

Top Ten Marine Waste Items Being Recorded Globally:

1) Cigarette butts 2) Plastic beverage bottles 3) Food wrappers 4) Plastic bottle caps 5) Straws, stirrers 6) Other Plastic bags 7) Glass beverage bottles 8) Plastic grocery bags 9) Metal bottle caps 10) Plastic lids Courtesy of Ocean Conservancy

Dr Jenna Jambeck, an expert on plastic waste from the University of Georgia, USA, visitng Dyer Island Conservation Trust after attending the African Marine Waste Conference responsible traveller 37

CONSERVATION PROFILE

How You Can Help •

Refuse, reduce, reuse and recycle. Ensure your local municipality has a good recycling programme or put pressure on them to do so.

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Choose not to use the following: Plastic bottles, straws, balloons and plastic shopping bags.

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Cut any circular plastic item that could get caught on an animal.

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Take a bag and gloves with you when going to the beach.

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Arrange a group of friends for a clean-up and enjoy a meal together afterwards. Be careful of breeding birds when cleaning a beach. Disturbance by people and dogs is having a devastating effect on some species.

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Contribute data to Ocean Conservancy – download the CLEAN SWELL app on your phone. A log of your collected trash will be summarised and you can even share this via social media with your friends encouraging them to do the same.

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Please look out for NURDLES and alert authorities in your area should you find them.

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Support the FISHING LINE BIN PROJECT at R350 per bin - click HERE

What are Nurdles? Nurdles are small plastic pellets that are about the size of a lentil. These plastic pellets are used to create most of our plastic products. In October 2017, there was a massive storm in Durban, Kwazulu-Natal, and a container vessel lost cargo that held millions of these little beads that ended up in the ocean and are washing up on beaches. These pellets are swiftly making their way down the coastline on the current. Non-profits and concerned citizens are unifying to help sift sand and clean up what is in effect a disaster. The nurdles, harmful to our marine life that may ingest them, will never disintegrate but in time will break into smaller fragments. Plastic at sea absorbs any persistent bio-accumulating toxins (PBTs) in the water. The absorption of these industrial chemicals will accumulate in animal and human tissue as we ingest fish that have eaten them.

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

Rescue Success Stories... Lucky: In February 2013, a female great white of just under 3m, was seen entangled in a piece of fishing line. The fishing line had cut into her trunk just in front of her dorsal fin, around her head, and she had a raw open gaping wound at the site of the embedded fishing line. The DICT team were able to capture and untangle her on the 6th of February 2013, and as anticipated she left the area soon thereafter. On Tuesday, 11th June 2013, the skipper of Marine Dynamics Shark Tours sent out a very joyful message - our fishing line shark, now nicknamed Lucky, was back at Dyer Island. Her scar was only faintly visible having healed very well. Stompie: Stompie, an endangered African penguin, is so nicknamed due to the loss of both his legs, one from fishing line and the other from a seal bite,. Stompie is living at the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary and is not able to be released. Injuries of this nature from fishing line are common in seabirds and most of the time these birds die at sea.

FOR MORE INFORMATION...

www.dict.org.za www.sharkwatchsa.com www.whalewatchsa.com

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refuse, reduce, reuse...

R E C YC L E Our oceans are more than just a place to go for some time out from a busy lifestyle; about 97 percent of the Earth’s water can be found in our oceans and they’re home to roughly 15% of the earth’s species. According to the World Economic Forum, 32% of plastic packaging produced annually worldwide is left to flow into our oceans. We all know this isn’t right… so let’s do something about it. “Taking care of our environment is simple, really. If each household implements and follows a recycling programme, we’re already halfway there,” says Mandy Naudé, CEO of Polyco - a non-profit industry body formed by a group of responsible polyolefin packaging producers with the aim of increasing the polyolefin packaging recycling rate. We need to accept that we cannot live without plastic in our world, but it is how packaging is designed and what consumers do with it once it has been used that makes the difference. By separating your household waste into recyclables and non-recyclables, you’ll play a major part in preventing plastic from ending up in 40 responsible traveller

the ocean, or accumulating in landfills. Recycling in your own home can be easy and fun, and Polyco is determined to show all South Africans how to get started. Alongside the queen of DIY, SuzelleDIY, Polyco has produced an educational, interactive ONLINE VIDEO. For every tonne of plastic that is recycled, it saves the equivalent of two people’s energy consumption for a year, the amount of water used by one person over two months and more than 7,500 litres of gasoline. “Polyco is passionate about driving recycling initiatives and spearheading this positive recycling revolution,” says Naudé. Remember to share the video and any helpful tips with your friends, family and neighbours. •

www.polyco.co.za www.all-recycling-facts.com www.oceanservice.noaa.gov

What’s news... Fair Trade Tourism to Launch Campaign to Reduce Plastic Impacts following No Time to Waste Conference Fair Trade Tourism will roll out a campaign against single-use plastics next year following its No Time to Waste conference last week which ended in delegates pledging to minimise their use of plastics and to step up recycling efforts. The one-day conference highlighted the damage caused by plastic waste to marine life, showcased waste management best-practices and urged tourism businesses to take responsibility for minimising waste impacts on the environment. Opening the conference, Fair Trade Tourism Managing Director Jane Edge said that 8-10 million tons of plastic – equal to the weight of 700 billion plastic bottles – end up in the ocean each year. “Plastic particles outnumber plankton in the ocean by 6 to 1 while over 1 million sea birds and over 100 000 mammals die every year as a result of plastic. Turtles are particularly susceptible to death as they mistake floating plastic bags for jellyfish,” she said. Death through entanglement, starvation due to ingesting plastic instead of food and the absorption of toxic chemicals from plastics which bioaccumulate through the food chain, are having a devastating impact on marine life, said Edge. Sounding the alarm, she said it was estimated that by 2050 the amount of plastic in the ocean would exceed 1,000 million tons, outweighing ocean fish. “We cannot allow wasteful practices to destroy the environment that our tourism industry depends on. We need to be part of the solution.”

Tourism delegates at the conference pledged to eliminate straws and reduce the use of other single-use plastics such as plastic bags, wet wipes, ear buds, condiment sachets, toiletry containers and cling wrap. Many also pledged to replace plastic bottled water with replenishable glass or steel containers. Spier Hotel showcased its achievement of a 98% recycling ratio of total waste produced on-site while Vineyard Hotel pledged to increase its recycling ratio from 95% to 98%. “Beach clean-up programmes report that bottle tops, ear buds and straws are the most prolific plastic pollutants picked up along South Africa’s beaches. The tourism sector can do much to reduce this impact by refusing to make these products available and educating guests about their environmental damage,” said Ms Edge. Next year Fair Trade Tourism plans to roll out a plastic reduction campaign across the tourism sector with the help of WWF-SA, the African Marine Waste Network and Two Oceans Aquarium. The campaign will encourage tourism businesses to eliminate plastics that are considered unnecessary and particularly damaging to the environment, and to improve their recycling efforts. Fair Trade Tourism has already begun engaging with plastic recyclers to improve the recycling of plastic waste generated by the tourism sector. •

www.fairtrade.travel

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#LuxuryHelderberg ...with Silver Forest Lodge

ituated on a southerly slope of the Helderberg Mountain, and named after the rare and endangered Silver Tree (Leucadendron argenteum), is the luxury boutique hotel Silver Forest Lodge. And much like its name sake, whose leaves have a metallic appearance and the luxurious feel of silk, this boutique hotel offers sophistication, luxury and style. 42 responsible traveller

Words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

Leucadendron argenteum Family: Proteaceae Common names: silver tree (Eng.), witteboom, silwerboom (Afr.) SA Tree No: 77 These beautiful trees, with their light-reflecting, silky, silver leaves grow in dense stands on the slopes above Kirstenbosch and are unique to the Cape Peninsula, but this species is in danger of going extinct in the wild in the next 50 years if we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take care of the remaining wild populations. Source â&#x20AC;&#x201C; www.sanbi.org responsible traveller 43

It’s clear that our hosts, Penny Rodenhurst and her partner (in business and life) Keith Barnett are no strangers to hospitality, as we’re greeted with smiles, bubbly and the enthusiastic wagging of Fudge – an adorable wire-haired terrier. Our garden suite is beautiful, decorated in tones of silver grey, textured with velvet, silk and linen, and punctuated with the richness of gold. A wall of forest bathed in the soft glow of sunset, covered one wall… and a peak behind the bathroom door revealed the lush greenery of yet another forest. Large wallpaper forest scenes are a recurring theme here, adding to the natural ambience and tranquillity of the location. A delicious English breakfast in the Acorns Bar Lounge was followed closely by our departure for some much anticipated wine tasting at a few of the wine estates that are virtually on their doorstep. Penny and Keith take pride in promoting all that is local - not only do they serve local wines, but they delight in having their guests experience them at source. So with Keith 44 responsible traveller

at the helm, and together with another couple, we set off to experience a few of these estates. These vineyards, located on the southern slopes of the Helderberg, are influenced by both a maritime and mountain climate thereby producing some wonderfully unique wines. Where better to start than where it all began… at VERGELEGEN. Founded in 1700 this estate oozes character, it’s a place where world class wines rub shoulders with historic events and political heavy weights (like Nelson Mandela, Bill Clinton and Desmond Tutu). We stroll the expansive gardens and wander alongside 300 year old camphor trees - standing beside these huge trees one cannot help but feel insignificant in the big scheme of things. As does walking through the historic residential Homestead (also dating back to the 1700’s) with its authentically furnished rooms and historic Vergelegen timeline. From its inception with Willem Adrian van der Stel planting the first vines, to the days when Sir and

The Garden Suites

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The Camphor trees at Vergelegen

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;We stroll the expansive gardens and wander alongside 300 year old camphor trees - standing beside these huge trees one cannot help but feel insignificant in the big scheme of things....â&#x20AC;&#x2122; responsible traveller 47

Wine tasting at Ernie Els Wines

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Lady Phillips transformed it into a floral treasure trove (don’t miss the rose garden) and when the Barlows planted the first orchards. To Anglo American’s huge investment in viticulture and historic restoration in the late 80s. We sit on the patio of the tasting centre, sip on Vergelegen’s Flagship and Reserve range... whilst overlooking clipped hedges and swathes of lavender. The nearby LOURENSFORD ESTATE, once part of neighbouring Vergelegen, is where we get to pair the deliciousness of dark chocolate with the smoothness of premium wines… Chardonnay with orange, Merlot with cherry, Shiraz and chili, and my best, the honey liquor & mint, each one complementing the wine to perfection. Next up was the MORGENSTER WINE AND OLIVE ESTATE, for a wine and olive tasting experience, in keeping with the Italian concept of producing fine wines and olives together. We sit around an old oak table from a French monastery - what stories the aged timber could tell! The deliciousness of the wine followed by lessons in olive oil - like wine, your nose and taste is individual... the smell predominantly like freshly mowed lawn and green apples, the after taste somewhat peppery. We learn that it’s really good for your health, and not to keep it on the kitchen counter!

Did I mention how wonderfully cosy the suites are? Returning from a day of wine tasting, one ‘comes home’ to a snug and welcoming space with the wood burner ‘magically’ lit in your absence (I do think that our Butler Ryan had something to do with this though). Delicious cappuccinos and a choice of fine Toni Glass Collection teas accompany fresh scones and red velvet cake for afternoon tea... then there’s the indoor/outdoor bar which is well stocked with local wine and a great selection of craft gin loved the Inverroche. This is a place where meals come ‘home cooked’ with love or casual around the pizza oven. And did I mention the spa? The SILVER FOREST SPA is all about luxury, relaxation... and pampering! No weekend (especially when there’s fab food and much wine involved) is complete without a whole lot of pampering. So once you’ve enjoyed a great sleep-in (the block-out curtains are amazing) and a wonderful breakfast, it’s time to venture to the Spa. Start off with an hour in the Forest Thermal Suite with its subdued yet colourful lighting and tranquil feel. This is where hot tubs, steam room, sauna, chilly plunge pool and rain showers

Olive oil tasting at Morgenster responsible traveller 49

await - remember the health benefits of hot/ cold temperatures for the body. The detox in the steam room surely preparing the body for another morning of wine tasting? We are in the Winelands after all.

View across the pool

Next up is an hour of bliss as the stresses of past deadlines, future deadlines and all else work related gets firmly massaged away and all that fills the mind is the tranquil background music and the thought of a wonderful afternoon nap. We’re in the ‘Winter’ room, but the closest to winter is the backlit scene of bare branches on the ceiling - I’m lying beneath a fluffy duvet on a comfortably heated massage bed... Did I mention that the heating for the spa is thanks to a heat pump and that all the water at Silver Forest is from a borehole? With the ongoing drought in the region, one can relax with the knowledge that all potable water is from a borehole and that the lovely lush gardens are watered with grey water from the laundry.

Fabulous Fudge

Another day, another wine tasting... this time Keith and Penny introduced us to a few of the wine estates located on the northern slopes of the Helderberg Mountain. The HIDDEN VALLEY WINES tasting centre is a beautiful piece of modern architecture making use of rock and wood to blend seamlessly into a valley of indigenous vegetation, olive groves and vineyards. The outdoor terrace with its expansive views is inviting, we enjoy the sunshine while tasting a selection of beautiful wines in equally beautiful bottles. Later we stroll beside the imposing sandstone wall to the Willie Botha Gallery, where his sculpted works are on view – near the entrance is a large sculpture of a face, the same image that graces the wine labels. A stone’s throw down the road is ERNIE ELS WINES, a name that was previously only associated with golf, but now equally so with fine wine. We appreciate the view from the outside seating area and before long we’re sipping the crisp and fruity Chenin… while watching wannabe pros tee off under the ‘shadow’ of the Big Easy. We’ve drunk wine, talked travel, and tried to solve the world’s problems, but all good things must come to an end… The old adage ‘arrive as guests and leave as friends’ certainly rings true at Silver Forest Boutique Lodge and Spa. This is where Keith and Penny (and the fabulous Fudge) welcome guests into their ‘home’ - a truly tranquil space where relaxation is ensured and the personal touch guaranteed. •

www.silverforest.co.za 50 responsible traveller

Keith making pizza

Summer menu

Wine tasting at Morgenster

Wine tasting at Vergelegen The Spa...

Colin at the Silver Forest bar

Wine tasting at Hidden Valley responsible traveller 51

ECO CREDENTIALS: Water: The property has no ‘mains water’ at all, so relies on two boreholes - one of which is for irrigation and the other for everything else. Drinking water is of the highest quality and is treated and filtered before use. All water from the laundry goes into a grey water system and is then used for irrigation. Energy: 95% of the lighting is LED. All new geysers are solar, but the old geysers inherited with the property are not – the aim is to phase these out and replace with solar geysers over the next two years. All geysers are turned off when not required - this has already saved R14,000 a month in electricity costs! A heat pump system is used to heat all their pools and the indoor thermal area - the sauna and steam room are only switched on when there is a reservation and it only take 5 minutes to heat up. Employment: All their staff live locally, but many are originally from Zimbabwe. The spa staff have received a huge investment in training - many hours on both product, technique and Silver Forest standards. The butlers are often young gentlemen with basic skills and are trained to deliver the high Silver Forest butler standards. Their consultant chef, Craig Cormack, does a five day training with all lodge staff on cooking, baking and presenting the summer menu

Hidden Valley

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(Penny’s comment “they loved this!”). The local wineries are invited to train staff on wine pairing and etiquette, and Morgenster does olive oil tasting training. Says Penny, “we do regular in depth appraisals focusing on skills, but also them as a person - the basic work ethic and skills, such as communication, personal presentation, timeliness, attitude, teamwork etc.” Procurement: All their wines are from the Cape winelands, and they use local craft gins in their lovely gin bar. They only purchase local cheeses and locally cured meats, bake their own breads we only use local Morgenster olive oils and olives. The spa products are all local except for one imported facial brand so the other 10 brands are local. The room amenities are Healing Earth which is a local luxury African product, and all the bed linen, toweling and robes were made in Cape Town. Décor: All fabrics were from local fabric houses, all furniture was made locally, and the amazing beds were made locally. The all-weather outdoor furniture was designed by Penny and was manufactured locally. The wood from a tree that need to be felled was used for furniture. All cupboards, side tables etc. in the rooms was made locally and the lovely wallpapers were printed in Cape Town.

Meet Penny & Keith:

Keith Barnett – From 27 years in the catering equipment and commercial kitchen industry in the UK, to running a hotel and restaurant. In 2001 Keith met Penny and helped her set up her UK hotel and restaurant business... culminating in them running the hotel and restaurants together, his responsibility being property development, procurement, and (in Penny’s words) “google translating for all our German Guests!” Pizza cooking, wine appreciation and general joie de vie around Silver Forest. Penny Rodenhurst – After 12 years in Corporate Marks and Spencer, followed By Glaxo Smithkline, Penny left due to sudden illness. She then purchased run down old property in Wales UK and developed it into the first 4 star property in that area and won Welsh Business Woman of the year awards in 2005. She sold the business in 2008 (just before the financial crash) and Penny and Keith followed their dreams to move to South Africa. Penny says she “took a wrong turn and went into the Fashion Brand business” - she developed a brand called Precioux (kids fashion) in SA and after 7 years, had 7 stores, two overseas franchisees and a factory in Cape town! Sadly Penny gave up the battle in the fashion industry and went back to “what we do best”. They purchased a very old fashioned, run down guest lodge and completely refurbished into Silver Forest Boutique Lodge and Spa which opened doors in December 2016… and the rest, they say is history. responsible traveller 53

What’s news... African Responsible Tourism Awards 2018 Categories announced Founded in 2015, the African Responsible Tourism Awards are a continent-wide search and celebration of Africa’s most inspiring and enduring responsible tourism experiences. Our vision for the Awards, which are open to any organisation anywhere in Africa, is to shine a light on the best of the best, and to inspire change in the African tourism industry. The winners of our Awards are announced each year at a ceremony at World Travel Market Africa held in Cape Town. The African Responsible Tourism Awards form part of the World Responsible Tourism Awards, and are held at WTM London in November each year. Winners in the continental awards are automatically entered into the world awards. The Awards are organised by Better Tourism Africa, under license by Reed Exhibitions. There are five categories in the 2018 African Responsible Tourism Awards. To enter the awards, click on the link below to download the application form. Please note, that unlike previous years in which there were two rounds

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in which applicants had to provide information – the first which asked for an overview and the second that asked for more depth – there is now only a single application. BEST FOR AQUATIC SPECIES AND HABITAT CONSERVATION: The Best for Aquatic Species and Habitat Conservation category is awarded to a tourism organisation or initiative that has a measurable success in conserving and managing coastal/ marine/freshwater habitats and species. Explained: The focus of Best for Aquatic Species and Habitat Conservation is on tourism providers – whether tour operators, accommodation establishments, activity operators or conservation organisations – which have, through tourism, achieved measurable species and/or habitat conservation objectives in coastal, marine or freshwater environments. Initiatives might include diving trails, wildlife watching experiences, places to stay or other tourism experiences which benefit species and/ or habitats and local communities.

What’s news... What the Judges want: Leadership in responsible tourism policies and practices in a coastal, marine or freshwater setting, positive integration and relationships with local communities, proven achievements in maintaining species and/or habitats, measures of success and ideas which can be adapted and developed by tourism providers around the world. BEST FOR DECENT WORK AND INCLUSION: The Best for Decent Work and Inclusion category is for a tourism organisation that has an exemplary approach to employment and treatment of staff, and a creative and long-term approach to including local producers in the supply chain. Explained: The Best for Decent Work and Inclusion category is looking for tourism organisations that create places to work which are supportive, fair and empowering – and looks beyond meeting legal requirements. This category is for organisations for whom the belief and practice of fair wages and decent working conditions is fundamental. These organisations also celebrate the skills of local people, employ local staff and offer training and progression opportunities. We are also looking for evidence of active engagement with local producers and their inclusion in the supply chain. What the Judges want: Organisations with a demonstrated commitment to, and a clear emphasis on, decent and fair working conditions. The winner will demonstrate a holistic approach to the welfare and skills development of its staff and significant achievement in local sourcing and employment. BEST FOR INNOVATION IN WATER MANAGEMENT: Best for Innovation in Water Management is awarded to a tourism organisation showing ingenuity and genuine effectiveness in the management of water. Explained: The Best for Innovation in Water Management category awards innovative and replicable practices in water sourcing, the reduction of water use and wastewater levels and the disposal of wastewater. What the Judges want: Tourism organisations with innovative policies and replicable practices in water management, a proven track record of achievement in the form of comparative data, a commitment to the future, and a model for leadership in the industry.

Best Responsible Business Event: The Best Responsible Business Event category is awarded for a business event that is designed, organised and managed in a way that minimises potential negative impacts and leaves a beneficial legacy for the host community and all involved. Explained: The Best Responsible Business Event will recognise an event that has successfully combined environmental best practices, deliberate actions that deliver benefit to the local economy, and meaningful engagement of local communities. Any business tourism event that targets ‘out-of-town’ attendees such as trade shows, conferences, summits, conventions and exhibitions qualify to enter this category. What the judges want: An inspirational event with progressive design and organisational practices that reduce the event’s environmental footprint and help to address community, social or environmental issues in the host destination. The event has measures of success and ideas which can be adapted by event organisers and host destinations around the world. All three core elements of responsible tourism are integrated into the conceptualisation and delivery of the event. BEST RESPONSIBLE CULTURAL EXPERIENCE The Best Responsible Cultural Experience is awarded to a tourism organisation for a tourism experience that puts the exploration and appreciation of local people and their cultures at its heart. Explained: The Awards are committed to the idea that tourism experiences are better, more enjoyable and more memorable when they’re organised with the local community and culture in mind. The Best Responsible Cultural Experience seeks to shine a light on the best examples of experiences which involve and celebrate local people, their way of life and their expression of their culture. Cultural sites, performances, festivals, tours, interactive activities and places (e.g. precincts, villages, towns) that inspire and promote responsible cultural experiences may enter this category. What the judges want: Tourism providers with exciting experiences that demonstrate and celebrate local cultures and ways of life, and which involve locals in the delivery of the experience. Download the application forms HERE

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SUSTAINABILITY

Cape Town

surviving the water crisis this summer

he summer holiday is going to be a challenge for water-saving measures in Cape Town. The Mother City is experiencing one of the worst droughts in its history, with many dams running low, and the drought likely to worsen. Severe water restrictions have been imposed. But saving water is not only the responsibility of residents. Local and international tourists are being urged to play their part.

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SUSTAINABILITY Hotels and guesthouses have already put measures in place. Many use buckets in showers to catch grey water, and guests are requested not to have baths. But what about popular tourist attractions like Cape Point? The reserve, at the southernmost tip of Africa, received its one millionth visitor at the end of last year, and this year has been just as busy. So how is CAPE POINT managing to save water without turning visitors away? These are some of the initiatives that’ve been implemented: •

Staff have undergone water-wise training. This type of training does not have to be expensive. The City of Cape Town already has an extensive list of WATER SAVING TIPS online and there are organisations that will readily assist.

•

Signs have been erected in all ablution facilities, warning visitors not to waste water. It’s a gentle way of reminding people that there is a water crisis and they need to act responsibly. Most tourists are happy to comply.

•

Cape Point has introduced an effluent system that recycles grey water, saved from hand basins and taps, for flushing toilets.

•

All tap washers at the Two Oceans Restaurant have been replaced to ensure that there are no leaks – an inexpensive and small effort which could save significant amounts of water.

•

The Two Oceans Restaurant is also urging patrons to drink bottled water during the drought, rather than water from taps. The restaurant’s bathroom has taps that are fitted with automatic sensors, which switch off when not in use.

•

The watering of gardens and vegetation has been stopped.

These efforts are paying off. Water meter readings show Cape Point is now using less than half the amount of water it previously used. Cape Point’s management say they are continuously seeking ways to curb wasteful water usage, while ensuring that tourists’ experiences are not dampened. This is in line with Cape Point’s commitment to responsible tourism. • Cape Point

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What’s news... Kwandwe Ecca Lodge nominated Overall Winner of the 2018 Safari Awards Kwandwe Private Game Reserve’s Ecca Lodge, located in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, outshone some of the continent’s finest safari lodges and experiences at the 2018 Safari Awards on 6 November in London. Nominated as the Award’s overall winner, KWANDWE ECCA LODGE was named Africa’s Best Safari Experience. Judged by a panel of 15 of the most highlyrespected, knowledgeable independent tour operators selling safaris this accolade pays testament to the consistent high level experience enjoyed by guests, both in the lodge as well as when out exploring this magnificent game rich wilderness region. Of equal magnitude and a huge tribute to the guiding and tracker team’s energy and enthusiasm, was also the award for being Africa’s Best Safari Guiding Team. An accolade received

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additionally last year under the South Africa category, this again demonstrates the reserve’s formidable ability to offer consistent excellence in its guest experience. Furthermore, Ecca Lodge came second place in the South Africa category for Best Ecologically Responsible lodge, won third place in the Best Family Safari Experience category and was acknowledged also in the Best Design category. With flexibility at the core of the guest experience, Kwandwe’s guests are invited to choose between a wide variety of wildlife viewing activities each day hosted by personable guides who reveal the wonders of Kwandwe’s vast wilderness by open topped 4x4, on foot or by boat. At 22,000 hectares / 54,000 acres, approximately four times the size of Bermuda but with only 26 rooms split between two small safari lodges (Ecca

What’s news... and Great Fish River Lodges) and three private safari villas (Melton Manor, Uplands Homestead and recently opened Fort House), Kwandwe offers not just a personalised safari experience but a very private one as well. Furthermore, with just a small number of guests on the reserve at any one time, it boasts a light environmental impact and one of the highest land to guest ratios found anywhere in South Africa. Specialists in Big Game Walking, Birding and Photographic Safaris as well as Fishing, guides encourage guests to spend as much time out of the vehicle as in. They can choose a thrilling Big Five bush walk, enjoy a slow safari, pausing to learn about the reserve’s impressive biodiversity as well as the more difficult to encounter and observe insects, bird and wildlife or enjoy some quiet contemplation time surrounded by the African bush whilst fishing for bass. Each with their individual interests and passions the guides’ areas of expertise are as varied as

the reserve itself. Offering exceptional wildlife viewing, its diverse landscape and 5 biomes are home to wide variety of game including the Big 5 and threatened species such as the Black Wildebeest, Crowned Eagle, Black Footed Cat and the highly endangered Blue Crane, from which it gets its name. Kwandwe’s popular Family safaris too have an adventurous eco-focus with activities tailored to different age groups, from ‘poo safaris’ for little ones to treasure hunts involving clues, compasses and landmarks for older kids, whilst the gastronomic offering, both in lodge and out on the reserve, offers an element of innovation and surprise. It is these subtleties that make a safari at Kwandwe stand apart. •

www.kwandwe.com Click Here To Read: Kwandwe... a sense of place

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Exploring the Zululand Coast... history, culture & conservation words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

n easy drive from Durban found us heading towards the Indaba Lodge Richards Bay for a couple of days of exploring the Zululand Coast. It’s golden shores are gently caressed by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, offering idyllic beaches and crystal clear waters... where further inland there are endless rolling hills, meandering valleys, and grassy plains teaming with wildlife. Forest sanctuaries and misty mountain peaks create an atmosphere of peace and tranquility, interrupted only by a plethora of birdcalls. This is where the fascinating culture of the Zulu people – known as ‘the people of heaven – with its rich tradition and symbolism comes to life.

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View across towards the harbour from the pier at Alkanstrand Beach in Richards Bay

As you cross the Thukela River you’re in the historic territory of John Dunn – legendary hunter, trader and white chief of Zululand. He was a man born of Scottish parents, who at the age of 18 moved with his young wife to the unexplored territory of Zululand. Here he met Cetshwayo, son of the Zulu king Mpande, and heir apparent, and was asked to become his advisor. He agreed and was made Chief of the fertile coastal region known as Ongoye, stretching from the Thukela to the

uMhlatuze River in the north. Here he adopted the culture and customs of the Zulu people, and against the disapproval of his wife ended up taking 48 Zulu wives and siring at least 117 children in the next few decades! A short drive after crossing the Thukela River, the historical boundary between the British dominated Natal and Zululand - home of the Zulu nation, you’ll find the Amatikulu Nature Reserve – a wonderful beach and bush destination. But we weren’t here for either of responsible traveller 61

these... it was the delicious long lunch to be had at the PRAWN SHAK that we were after. The Shak is a rustic wooden structure surrounded by coastal forest and nestled amongst sand dunes, its upper deck – the restaurant area, offering expansive views of the ocean. The dress code is feet-in-the-sand casual, the prawns delicious and the beverages clearly ever-flowing. Never fear though, all this glass gets repurposed as flower bed edges, crushed to be used in building materials or recycled. Cutting lunch short, we headed to RICHARDS BAY. When you mention Richards Bay, generally most people think industry and busy harbour. And they would be correct, as this town is home to some industrial heavy weights such as Hillside Aluminium, Richards Bay Minerals and Foskor, amongst others. And it has the deepest natural harbour in the southern hemisphere as well as the largest coal export facility in the world. So why were we heading to Richards Bay, you ask? Besides its wonderfully subtropical climate, wonderful wetland scenery, dune forests and un-spoilt beaches, it’s a great location to explore the region. The TUZI GAZI WATERFRONT – so named after the uMhlatuze and Mzingazi rivers that flow into the harbour, is situated west of the beaches and has a vibrant atmosphere, shops, pubs, restaurants, walk-on moorings and great views. A sunset cruise on a catamaran is the ideal way to understand the expanse of what is South Africa’s largest natural harbour. Motoring past the tugs and ships one catches a glimpse of the bulk port in the distance, where a steady stream of large vessels wait to transport South Africa’s wares to distant shores. Sea gulls fly overhead as we pass a small fishing boat, surf skis cut through the water powered by lithe bodied athletes and a fish eagle briefly hovers above, it’s call the quintessential sound of Africa. We pass Naval Island, then Pelican Island and its secluded bay, a popular swimming beach for locals, and the Marina, with its high end residential homes and luxury yachts before heading back for a night of cocktails and dancing at the waterfront club CUBANA. We stayed at the recently refurbished and renovated INDABA LODGE RICHARDS BAY, ideally located in the leafy green suburb of Meerensee. I loved the sense of place that was clearly evident… from the yacht themed artwork in our room to the beautifully carved wooden fish in Trevallys restaurant and bar – fishing is a big thing in this part of the world, 62 responsible traveller

Indaba Lodge Richards Bay

Tuzi Gazi Waterfront, Richards Bay

Cubana at Tuzi Gazi Waterfront

Come rain or shine, be sure to pop in to ROBERTOS ICE CREAM at the Tuzi Gazi Waterfront. They are hand-made, really great value for money... and absolutely delish!

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and a trevally (part of the jack family) is a prize catch for any marine fisherman. Our room was quiet and comfortable, and the buffet dinner and breakfast delicious. But best of all is that its super conveniently located to all the fun stuff in Richards Bay as well as further afield… be sure to plan for numerous days though, as there is much to explore in this region!! Start your exploration in the pretty village of MTUNZINI, home to the rare Palmnut vulture, the RAFFIA PALM MONUMENT and the UMLALAZI NATURE RESERVE. Activities include boating, canoeing and fishing on the lagoon, bird watching as well as walking through the pristine coastal forest and mangrove swamps. Take the easy walk through the mangrove swamp near the main parking area and besides great examples of black and white mangrove, you get to walk past Dunn’s Pool – a man-made ‘bathing area’ dug out of the banks of the Mlalazi River to keep Joh Dunn’s wives and family safe from crocodiles and hippos. The close bond between Dunn and Cetshwayo, who had now become king, resulted in him becoming one of the wealthiest and most powerful chiefs of Zululand. This relationship was however diminished as the inevitability of war with the British loomed, and suspicions of his allegiances mounted. During the night of Old Year’s Eve 1878, Dunn and his family along with 2,000 of his supporters and over 3,000 head of cattle were ferried across the Thukela into British Natal. Offering his services to the British he briefed them on the terrain of his former kingdom with

his first involvement in the war being at the Battle of Gingindlovu. After the defeat of the Zulu army at Ulundi and the arrest of Cetshwayo, Dunn was given back his former chiefdom with increased powers and more land. It was not a ‘happily ever after’ story however, as he despised being under British rule and after some time washed his hands of all involvement with the British and retired to spend the rest of his life as a cattle farmer on his farm Emoyeni , outside Mtunzini. He died there at the age of 71, survived by 23 wives and 79 children. His descendants are still farmers in the area to this day. Driving inland towards Gingindlovu, you pass hectares of pine plantations, fields of sugar cane and an artisanal rum distillery. The TAPANGA RUM DISTILLERY was started by a group of sugar cane farmers with the passion for producing rum from only the finest natural ingredients. The emphasis here being on quality, and using their own fresh sugar cane juice, the quality of this single estate rhum agricole (a French term for cane juice rum, originally distilled in the French Caribbean islands from sugar cane juice rather from molasses) is assured. The sugar cane is harvested by hand, then crushed, extracting fresh sugarcane juice. This juice is pumped into very cool looking fermentation tanks, the fermented cane juice is then pumped into their state of the art still named ‘’ Nandi’’ after King Shaka’s mother. After distillation the rum is either placed in solid oak barrels and aged for the Tapanga Gold Rum, or bottled as is for the Tapanga White Rum. The beautiful bottles are labelled by hand with distinctive hand written batch numbers.

10 cool things to do in Richards Bay: • • • • • • • • • • • •

swim in the ocean at Alkanstrand Beach take kite surfing lessons – a popular past-time in the area search for dolphins off the pier ask a local about the 4X4 track at Lake Mzingazi cycle to Pelican Island and be rewarded by a dip in the bay go mountain biking on one of the off road trails, but be sure to ask a local which are the safe options go sea kyaking on the waterways of the harbour visit the viewpoint at the Richards Bay Lighthouse go deep sea fishing go whale watching in season enjoy cocktails at the waterfront after all the excercise, spend some time relaxing at a spa

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Raffia Palm Monument

Tapanga Gold Rum Barrels

Tapanga Gold Rum

Trumpeter Hornbill in a wild fig tree Boardwalk through the mangrove swamp

Duiker at Umlalazi Nature Reserve

Vervet Monket at Umlalazi Nature Reserve responsible traveller 65

Enjoying the view over the canopy at Dlinza Forest

We head towards Eshowe and the DLINZA FOREST, a 250 hectare forest uniquely situated within the urban environment of Eshowe. It is probably the most accessible forest in the region and is visited by birdwatchers from all over the world. Within the forest is the DLINZA FOREST AERIAL BOARDWALK, a 125-metre boardwalk, at an elevation of 10 metres, allows visitors to walk right under the canopy of Dlinza’s indigenous scarp forest and culminates in a 20-metre observation tower with a breath-taking view.

Bronze-naped Pigeon. Other species include Trumpeter Hornbills, Purple-crested Turacos and Narina Trogons, just a few of the 65 forest bird species in Dlinza.

Find yourself a local birding guide and head into the forest – the summer months are great for birding and the region offers birders the opportunity of some very special birding ‘ticks’ such as the Spotted Ground Thrush and Eastern 66 responsible traveller

The fort houses the ZULULAND HISTORICAL MUSEUM and covers a wide range of local interest from natural history to missionary history and from wars between kingdoms to battles against the tsetse fly.

Another must see in Eshowe is the FORT NONGQAYI MUSEUM VILLAGE in Eshowe where a visit takes you back to a time when the three turreted fort housed the barefoot Zulu police (the Nongqayi) whose task it was to protect the British administration after the Anglo-Zulu War.

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk culminates in a 20-metre observation tower with a breathtaking view...â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Fort Nongqayi Museum Village

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The VUKANI ZULU CULTURAL MUSEUM houses some of the best Zulu arts and crafts work collected over the years, with several of the artists receiving international recognition for their work. The Vukani Association was formed more than 30 years ago in an attempt to revive the then-dying art of basketry. Through Vukani, men and women have pooled their inherited knowledge of grasses, palm leaves, natural dyes, beadwork, woodcarving and ceramics to produce a range of contemporary items with a traditional theme which has created a new market for the crafters of Zululand. Shop for locally made Zulu craft, pop into the missionary chapel and before you leave be sure to enjoy a cup of tea in a 19th century corrugated iron settler’s house. Follow the Zululand Heritage Route, known as Route 66, for greater insight into the history of the region. Along the route one can experience Zulu culture and hospitality first hand – we visited SHAKALAND and were greeted with traditional song and dance, learnt about Zulu culture and even had the opportunity sip on Zulu beer! As we continued our journey, we popped into the Zamokhule and Ndundulu roadside market for fabulously fresh and juicy pineapples, avocados and even madumbis.

MTONJANENI LODGE is a fabulous place to stop for lunch with its expansive views across the eMakhosini Valley, known as the Valley of Kings… it was here that King Shaka grew up and later established his Royal Residence. Nearby is the EMAKHOSINI MEMORIAL, which stands on a lookout hill and has a huge bronze beer pot as its centre piece. The pot is surrounded by friezes depicting everyday Zulu life. Surrounding the pot are seven large animal horns symbolising the seven kings who lie buried in the valley. A full-time tour guide is on hand to offer information and point out important sites. The MTONJANENI ZULU HISTORICAL MUSEUM has an exceptional display of artifacts from the Anglo Zulu War and from here a guided tour of KING DINGANE’S SPRING can be undertaken. It was Zulu tradition that the king should have exclusive access to clean drinking and bathing water, and every day girls would be selected to walk the 8km from the Royal Household at Umgungundlovu to this spring where they collected water in clay pots for King Dingane KaSenzangakhona. On the route P230, back towards Empangeni we pass the KWABULAWAYO HERITAGE AND CULTURAL SITE. This is where King Shaka

Young maiden grinding maize to make traditional beer

Zulu man in traditional warrior dress

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Lovely Zulu ladies

Traditional Zulu sheilds

established his military headquarters and also where the legendary Mzilikazi betrayed him. Legend has it that, during its heyday, KwaBulawayo boasted 30 000 bee-hive huts, making it the biggest city in Africa at the time. It was here that young men were vigorously trained into strong warriors, setting the foundation for the rich and profound history of the mighty Zulu nation. In 1823 Shaka was triumphant, with his army conquering the neighbouring clans to create one mighty nation that was supreme and his followers delirious with success. The raids that King Shaka was so well known for were suspended during the hot summer as his people tilled the fields and made spears and shields. Winter was the time for war and raids were launched wherever a tribe could be found still in the possession of cattle or other forms of wealth. Cultural tourism is inextricably linked to economic upliftment, and previously disadvantaged communities are applying their traditional skills to meet visitor’s interests. Many tourist destinations offer insightful opportunities to experience living Zulu culture at first hand whether through homestays or a shisanyama (barbecued meat) dining experiences at a local tavern or restaurant. Fresh fruit and vegetables at the Zamokhule Market

Hand crafted mats at the Ndundulu Market

For an extra special experience visit a traditional Zulu ‘Umuzi’... Be welcomed into a Zulu homestead with the warm, traditional greetingcall of ‘Sawubona!’ Sometimes without electricity and running water, lighting is provided by candlelight, and hot water for ablutions is kept on the boil in a large pot on the communal fire. Each hut is comfortably furnished and forms part of the family homestead. Meals are served in a central hut, and as per Zulu custom, the men are served first. The food is wholesome and freshly prepared, and includes meat, rice and vegetables cooked the traditional way. Accompany a traditional healer into the nearby forest to collect herbs, bulbs, and bark. Listen as he explains how he harvests and prepares the traditional medicines for use on both human and animal patients – these age-old traditions are still practiced on a daily basis, many of which are the foundation of modern pharmaceuticals. Nguni cattle play an important part in traditional Zulu culture and are creatively named according to their variously patterned and multicoloured hides, for example, a white cow with black speckles is known as imasenezimpukane - ‘the flies in the buttermilk’. Young Zulu herd boys learn the art of stick fighting while tending their cattle. They start with young branches and when they reach the age of 15 they progress to adult sticks, one of which is used for offence and the other as a shield for defence. Dancing and singing is very much part of the lifestyle of the Zulu people, and it is a privilege to be invited around the communal fire to experience traditional Zulu dancing at its best – no fancy costumes, or well-choreographed moves, just the exuberant joy of the dance. The objective of a home stay is to provide visitors with an authentic insight into the contemporary cultural lifestyle of the average rural Zulu person, to experience village life as happens – a vibrant living culture. A visitors departure is accompanied by the heartfelt ‘Siyabonga...hamba kahle’ -’We thank you and farewell.’ responsible traveller 69

No visit to this region would be complete without a wildlife experience, and fortunately there are a number of day options within an easy hour or two’s drive from Richards Bay. There is an extensive network of nature reserves and game parks ensuring an abundance of flora and fauna to delight the visitor – from several hundred bird species, many species of antelope, hippo, cheetah, giraffe to the Big Five...lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino.

The starting point of the two trails at Enseleni Nature Reserve

One such place is the ENSELENI NATURE RESERVE on the outskirts of Richards Bay. The reserve consists of coastal grasslands and forest and the Nseleni River provides a freshwater habitat providing the ideal habitat for a wide variety of bird species. Our visit was brief, so the two marked trails wold have to wait until next time - these do however offer fantastic scenery and the possibility of seeing a variety of antelope, giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, hippopotamus and crocodile. We headed out through Empangeni towards THULA THULA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE, home of Francoise and the late Lawrence Anthony - you’re probably familiar with The Elephant Whisperer, The Last Rhinos and Babylon’s Ark. Thula Thula is committed to conservation and is home to a wide variety of species, both great and small. On our ‘Day Visitor’ game drive we sa elephant, zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, impala and a variety of bird species. We even watched a couple of the resident cape vultures soaring overhead before swooping down to perch on the branch of a large tree. Should you prefer to undertake a self-drive safari, head north along the N2 from Richards Bay towards to Africa’s oldest game reserve, the HLUHLUWE IMFOLOZI GAME RESERVE. This reserve is also home to many species of antelope as well as large populations of elephant, buffalo and giraffe and predators such as the lion, cheetah and the elusive leopard.

Young Nyala bull

The abundance of wildlife this region has seen the increase in the scourge of rhino poaching over the last number of years. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, along with a number of private reserves and conservation bodies in KwaZulu-Natal are coordinating their efforts under a common campaign banner – PROJECT RHINO. This coordinated effort is working towards a solution to curb rhino poaching, and to significantly increase the number of rhino poaching related arrests. These initiatives have seen a significant re-investment in conservation law enforcement and improved training and monitoring, both visual and electronic. So when we saw this magnificent creature with its pre-historic form, standing alongside the dusty road we could not help pausing a while. And appreciated, not only the folds of its skin that seem to bear testimony to its appearance of antiquity or the near 70 responsible traveller

White Rhino

priceless pricelesshorn hornthat thatititso sosought soughtafter, after,but butalso alsothe the selfless commitment of the rangers that often selfless commitment of the rangers that oftenput put their theirlives liveson onthe theline linefor forthe thesafety safetyof oftheir theirrhino. rhino. Another Anotherself selfdrive driveoption optionisisthe theISIMANGALISO ISIMANGALISO WETLAND PARK, South Africa’s first WETLAND PARK, South Africa’s firstWorld WorldHeritage Heritage Site, proclaimed in 1999 and extending Site, proclaimed in 1999 and extendingfrom from Maphelane Maphelaneininthe thesouth southto tothe theMozambique Mozambiqueborder. border. The Eastern Shores section of the iSimangaliso The Eastern Shores section of the iSimangaliso Wetland WetlandPark Park(accessed (accessedatatthe theCape CapeVidal Vidalgate gateon onthe the outskirts of the town of St Lucia), has several loop outskirts of the town of St Lucia), has several loop roads roadsleading leadingto toexcellent excellentnatural naturalfeatures featuresfor forbirdbirdwatching and game viewing as well as hides watching and game viewing as well as hidesand and viewing viewingdecks deckssuch suchas asthe therelatively relativelynew newMfazana Mfazana bird birdhide hideoverlooking overlookingthe theMfazana Mfazanapan panand andthe the Mfabeni viewing deck near Cape Vidal. Mfabeni viewing deck near Cape Vidal. Enjoying the view atat iSimangaliso Enjoying the view iSimangalisoWetland WetlandPark Park

This Thisregion regionhas hasmore morethan than420 420bird birdspecies speciesrecorded recorded and is home to elephant, rhino, buffalo, crocodile, and is home to elephant, rhino, buffalo, crocodile, hippo, hippo,hyena hyenaand andleopard leopardas aswell wellas asaavariety varietyof of smaller smallergame. game.The Thesea seaand andpristine pristinebeaches beachesof ofCape Cape Vidal are ideal for snorkelling and angling, as well Vidal are ideal for snorkelling and angling, as wellas as nesting nestingturtles turtlesduring duringthe thesummer summermonths. months.Hippo Hippo and andcroc croctours tourson onthe theSt. St.Lucia Luciaestuary estuaryare areanother another popular activity. popular activity. Richards RichardsBay Bayand andits itssurrounding surroundingareas areascertainly certainly offer a variety of activities within a two hour offer a variety of activities within a two hour drive, drive,whether whetheryou’re you’reininto tohistory, history,culture cultureor or conservation… conservation…or orall allthree! three! • •

www.indabarichardsbay.co.za www.indabarichardsbay.co.za

Distances from Richards Bay Distances from Richards Bay (Meerensee): (Meerensee):

• Durban Central - 186km (2h 6min)

Elephants onon aa game drive Elephants game drive

Zebra Zebra

• • Durban Central - 186km (2h Mtunzini – 52km (44min) • 6min) Tapanga Rum – 67km (56min) Eshowe – 93km (1h 21min) • • Mtunzini – 52km (44min) Melmoth – Rum 97km via Empangeni (1h • • Tapanga – 67km (56min) 27min) / 118km via Empangeni & • Eshowe – 93km (1h 21min) Eshowe (1h 47min) • • Melmoth via5min) Thula Thula––97km 54km (1h (1h–27min) • Empangeni Hluhluwe iMfolozi 81 km (1h/ 14min) • 118km St Lucia –via 83km (1h 17min) & Empangeni Eshowe (1h 47min) • Thula Thula – 54km (1h 5min) • Hluhluwe iMfolozi – 81 km (1h 14min) • St Lucia – 83km (1h 17min) responsibletraveller traveller 13 71 responsible

What’s news... Newly launched cooperative I AM JOBURG to help local SMMEs I AM JOBURG is a curated collection of unique experiences and tours celebrating Johannesburg’s diverse cultures and people. From walking and cycling tours of Joburg’s iconic neighbourhoods to unique culinary and cultural experiences, I am Joburg is about celebrating the local. We are all about supporting our local tourism and creative entrepreneurs who make this place unique. Experiential travel is on the rise and modern day explorers are seeking a different kind of trip, the kind that encourages cultural immersion, a broadening of the horizons, and a deeper engagement with ones surroundings— whether it’s the beach, the jungle, the city or other. It’s a form of tourism in which people focus on experiencing a place by connecting to its history, its people and its culture - experiential travel is less about posing for photo ops, and more about an individual’s own personal transformation. The Solution? To create a centralised hub to link tourists to local emerging tour operators and experiences and tour operators to the market.

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The I AM JOBURG Marketing Cooperative will promote authentic, local experiences incorporating both existing and new SMME’s showcasing the creativity and diversity of Johannesburg. The coop will also be focusing on joint marketing to take the umbrella of tourism products under the I AM JOBURG brand to international markets (trade shows etc). To compliment the HUB the I AM JOBURG will be digitally driven with a strong social media element using both generated and curated content. The Dream? To position the I AM JOBURG brand in such a way that the people of Joburg take ownership of the Brand and both promote and compliment the brand and marketing. The Plan? The hub will be cooperatively owned by SMME tour operators who will all contribute towards the Conhill subsidised rental and facility costs as well as benefit from revenue generated. Location? Constitution Hill, an area rich in cultural offerings and amenities, is centrally

What’s news... located close to Gautrain, highways, taxis and buses, with ample parking. It is the start of both City Sightseeing Red Bus Tours and is easy for tourists to get to, and easy for SMME tour operators to get to. The new Visitor Centre, scheduled for completion in 2018, will be the Gateway to Joburg and Gauteng for visitors. Constitution Hill has played a coordinating role in establishing the I AM JOBURG marketing cooperative, and will be providing facilities at ConHill and in new visitors centre. Constitutional Hill and Joburg Tourism have provided the seed funding for the cooperative including the development of the brand identity. Other support and benefits include: bringing SMME’s into mainstream tourism, foster entrepreneurship, training, market access training and support, and assisting with the development of the co-operative structure with all members contributing and sharing in the rewards. These experiential tours assist in encouraging visitors to spend more time in Joburg and helps bring bring township tourism into the mainstream.

One such benefit is the I AM JOBURG partnership with the global AFROPUNK festival brand. Small black owned businesses will be the main beneficiaries of the business generated by the festival to be held from the 28th December to 1st January 2018. Afropunk will be seen to be supporting this sector. Unique, bespoke experiences will be curated to compliment the afropunk experience and the Afropunk audiences will be safely shuttled through precincts in dedicated branded buses. Another benefit is that Joburg usually shuts down over new-year but with I AM JOBURG will not only work with businesses to get them to stay open but we will also curate experiences over the week. These experiences will include: arts, food and drink, lifestyle, history, music, fashion and social impact. Visit www.iamjoburg.africa now for all you need to know about Joburg and the global AFROPUNK festival (for more info click HERE). •

www.iamjoburg.africa

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THE CRAYFISH TRAIL

on the west coast way wild route words & pics - Di Brown

Walking through the fynbos at Rocher Pan

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he early morning sun warmed my back and cast a golden glow on the landscape. The air was fresh and fragrant, the peppery smell of fynbos mingled with a salty tang from the ocean hidden by the distant dunes. Birds called, creatures scuttled in the undergrowth and my feet kicked up little puffs of dust with each step. My moving meditation was interrupted by a sharp command to STOP! Our party of six watched in awe, and a little bit of fear, as two meters of a vibrantly patterned yellow and black puffadder slithered across out path and vanished into the bushes. Welcome to the West Coast Way SA Wild Route, where nature is clearly in charge. My adventure started the previous day with a

180km drive from Cape Town to Rocher Pan, an easy drive in a BMW M240i skillfully driven by Ernest Page. Mad wind tangled hair was a small price to pay for the freedom of an open topped car on traffic free roads as we made our way to the start of the Crayfish Trail. What is the Crayfish Trail ? It is a slack-packing trail that uncovers the secrets of the coastal towns and villages of the West Coast situated between Rocher Pan and Papendorp. responsible traveller 75

Heading towards the beach from Rocher Pan

Three options are offered. The Five Day Trail includes a total of 61km of hiking, wine tasting, home cooked meals and excellent dining in local restaurants, visits to ancient caves, bird hides and meeting local people. The Two Day options cover between 20 and 25 km of walking and some of the attractions listed above, depending on which of the 3 routes you choose. The third option allows the visitor to customize their own preferred routes from the five days offered, creating a 3 or 4 day trail covering the areas and terrain that interest them the most - the organisers offer to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;pick-upâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for the longer days of hiking. From a budget perspective, guests can choose between the Recreational Package which offers 3 star accommodation and foodie level cuisine, or the Subsistence Package where meals are 76 responsible traveller

still good but more casual and accommodation is in comfortable backpackers. All the options include a guide from the area who will answer all your questions and provide insights into the local communities. The trail is suitable for anyone with a moderate level of fitness and for children over 12 years of age. The terrain is mostly flat and walked on rough paths, jeep tracks, board walks, beaches and coastal hill paths. What I loved about the Crayfish Trail. The intangibles. The light, the air, the astounding views and the diversity of the terrain. The absence of noise, pollution, people and traffic, of all digital intrusion. The slow living ethos of the West Coast Wild Route where life is savoured in long moments and the only time is right now.

A perfect stretch of unspoilt beach heading towards Elandsbaai

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Baboon Cave and Elandsbaai On the approach to Baboon Cave, also known as Cape Deseada, stories of the past whisper from the emptiness of abandoned buildings. A soaring concrete platform serves as a reminder of the radar station active during World War 2. Barracks crumble in shame, crushed by memories of the migrant labourers who were housed here during the apartheid era. We climbed up the hill to the cave and were drawn into the lives of the San hunter-gatherers and Khoekhoe herders and their ancestors who lived here thousands of years ago. Baboon Point and the cave have been proclaimed a Provincial Heritage Site and is the only site on the entire African continent where rock paintings can be found so close to the coast. The rocks glowed in orange and red as the last light hit the point. We cracked open some Darling Brews, toasted the past, present and future and admired the views. A bit of yoga silliness followed and then all was still as we got caught up in the magnificence of natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art, a West Coast sunset. The Wit Mossel Pot is sort of a lot of things, but not anything in particular. It is just Die Wit Mossel Pot. It is partly a surf shop, restaurant, pub, backpackers, curio, clothing, ice cream, coffee kind of place. It also has dĂŠcor that must be explored. Random signs, peculiar sculptures made from beer bottles and cement, and a piece of driftwood dressed in a bikini are just a few of the things to look out for. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a happy hippy retro shack with laid back smiles to match. Doringbaai The wind almost blew my face off as I explored the cliff paths high above the sea. I could see how these craggy cliffs got their rugged appearance. Rough paths and structured walk ways lead to a labyrinth, a covered seat with endless ocean views, or down to the coves and giant rock accessed via a stony spit at low tide. This piece of coastline is so different to the endless beaches found to the north and south and I could have explored all day. The harbor is a vibrant, lively clash of noise and colour. Orange and white rowing boats lie on the sand, out of work fishers come for a chat and a shared smoke, birds call and the engine of a boat attached to brightly covered pipes thrums. A converted factory at the start of the jetty proudly announces itself as Fryers Cove winery, not the most expected spot to go wine tasting. 78 responsible traveller

Sunset shennanigens at Baboon Cave

Draaihoek I am no foodie, but this lunch was the best fish pie ever. It was the size and shape of a large chocolate cake, but made from quiche stuff, sort of. Inside was flaked snoek in a creamy sauce that tasted like ocean goodness. It was served with a fresh salad. Simple, divine and filling after a morning walking. Papendorp This hamlet of just 200 people should be a thriving community, yet it appears that the world has forgotten these folks. Papendorp is a tiny settlement on a big river. Set back about a kilometer from the sea the few dwellings overlook the Olifants River, flood plains, salt pans and the abundant bird life. The river opens out

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Verlorenvlei, a wetlands wonder

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‘Verlorenvlei is a World Heritage site of incredible natural beauty and huge archeological importance....’ onto an unspoiled beach, accessible only on foot. We took a leisurely stroll down the steps and onto the boardwalk that crossed the marshy area and the salt pans before hitting the path to the bird hide. The residents of Papendorp have permission to harvest the salt when the pan dries up during the summer months. The bird hide is well maintained, and the views are spectacular. After the bright white of the salt pans and the dull brown tones of the fynbos, the burst of green and blue river and reeds viewed from the hide are an explosion of rich colours. Vensterklip and Verlorenvlei Verlorenvlei is a World Heritage site of incredible natural beauty and huge archeological importance due to the caves and rock art found here. It is an IBA (International Birding Area),

home to over 170 bird species. The wetland is a RAMSAR site. Vensterklip is a resort on Verlorenvlei owned and run by Jane Louw. Jane bought the Vensterklip resort recently and while we could not fault anything, she was adamant that it is a work in progress and she still has so much to do. We stayed in the historic Louw’s Manor House, lovingly restored to its former glory. The original wooden floorboards gleam and creak, in perfect harmony with an en- suite bathroom and a modern well equipped kitchen. My favourite spot was on the covered stoep at the back of the manor overlooking the vlei. Sitting in my pajamas, hands clasped around a cup of coffee watching the sun rise and the horses grazing is a memory that will stay with me forever. responsible traveller 81

The pub at Ventersklip

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It is an idyllic spot for bird watching, horse riding, kayaking, walking, rock art, wild flowers or just relaxing in nature. The comically named “International Pub” is where you will make new friends and the Tin Kitchen, housed in a 300 year old barn, embraces the West Coast ethos of slow living and responsible practices, sourcing all their meat locally, growing their own veggies and serving generous plates of home cooked goodness.

the Gannets before you see them. Thousands of birds all screeching as loud as they can before the wind whips the sound away.

If you want fish and chips, Lamberts Bay is the place to go. The people are friendly, the fish is fresh, and they know just how to cook it. Isabella’s or the Weskus Kombuis are both highly recommended.

I loved the design of the bird hide and having two levels is very clever. Thousands of birds are on the ground, necks stretched skywards, wings outstretched embracing the sun or all huddled up looking miserable and cold and they can be watched from the lower level while seated on comfortable chairs and protected from the elements by huge glass windows. It is from this level that I noticed their startling blue eyes, not something I expected in a bird. Pretty as they are, they make terrible models as they do not stay still for a second and photographing them proved to be way beyond my skill set.

There are only six Cape Gannet Breeding colonies in the world and Bird Island is one of them. Access is easy as the island is connected to the mainland by a breakwater. Waves crash against the concrete bollards, but you still hear

The upper level has an open viewing window and the skies are busy. A continuous flow of birds taking off, landing or flying past, near misses can be seen at any given moment. A small museum houses some interesting exhibits but my personal

Lamberts Bay and Bird Island

Blue eyed Gannets at Bird Island in Lambert’s Bay

Beach man at the entrance to Bird Island

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favourite was the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Beach Manâ&#x20AC;? standing about 2 meters high, dreadlocks blowing in the wind as he looks out to sea. He was constructed by the locals from driftwood and is quite beautiful. At R40 per adult and R20 for children this is great value and a fantastic experience for all ages. Rocher Pan Coming from drought stricken Cape Town, the first thing that got my attention after the natural beauty and solitude, was the waterless toilet. I was fascinated. The toilet is just the sitting on part, no cistern or flushing mechanism at all. Opening the lid was a bit of a shock initially as it is a deep black, odorless hole. Next to the loo is a small metal bucket filled with compost and a small wooden scoop. A small scoop of compost is added after every use and the lid is closed. No water is added, ever. The sold matter dehydrates, liquid evaporates and what little is left bio-degrades with the The waterless toilet

help of the compost. I even took a photo of the manufactures details because this is something worth considering, given that a regular toilet uses 8 or more litres of water with every flush check them out HERE. Three of us shared this bathroom and at no point was there any smell whatsoever from this loo. #JustSaying. A hissing sound was coming from the roof of the carport. Snake, help, was my first fearful city dwellers thought, so I walked as fast as I could, away from the noise. Later that night Daniel called me to the sight of the hissing sound. There was a perfect Barn Owl, her exquisite white face peeping shyly out at us, then retreating and hissing loudly, protecting her young. That was another memorable moment, imprinted forever in my mind. Rocher Pan is as dry as a bone. We walked to the bird hide about an hour before sunset, weavers chattered, swallows gathered, and a few

Outside the loo is a large PVC chimney that looks like this.

Rocher Pan, totally dry due to the drought

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sandpipers darted on the ground. That was it. Walking back, we spotted a few bright red Bishop birds, but I think we saw more tortoises than birds that evening, those guys are everywhere. Back at our chalet we met Sylvia Newman, an inspiring lady and our Chef for the night. Sylvia is part of a project that empowers local women by teaching skills to provide catering services to the tourism and hospitality industry in the area. This was real comfort food cooked with love and flair. Sylvia did something magical with spinach and pap and then produced a stew so hearty we were going back for seconds and thirds. Of course, we all somehow made space for homemade Milk Tart and coffee before collapsing in to bed. These beaches made my heart smile. They stretched out in endless curves of blue and white, unspoiled by litter, crowds or noise. Just the sounds of the ocean, the gulls and the beating of my happy heart. I could have walked all the way back to Cape Town with a smile on my face. The roads I loved the roads, and the ever changing landscapes, all beautiful and so wide open, you can just breathe. The alternate routes are gravel and force you to slow down and take in the views. Some hugged the coastline, other followed the tracks of the Sishen- Saldanha railway line that brings iron ore from the North down to the massive steelworks at Saldanha Bay. All are worth exploring. The serious stuff The fishing industry is the core of these towns, all which form part of the Sustainable Food Track by West Coast Way and all the fishers here adhere to sustainable fishing methods which are defined as follows: “Sustainable fishing is harvesting only as many fish as the fish stock can accommodate while maintaining its population at healthy levels.” While on the trail you can learn about overfishing, poaching and the plight of the now endangered West Coast Rock Lobster, locally known as Kreef or Crayfish. These issues have a negative impact on the socio-economic health of the communities, and the guides are able to tell you how it affects their lives and that of their families, friends and neighbours. Growing the tourism industry in this area is vital to ensure growth and economic empowerment for the people of these West Coast towns. • 86 responsible traveller

There is so much to see in the dunes that separate the fynbos and the beach

Doringbaai and Fryer’s Cove Winery

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What I missed and why I will go back again and again. •

More stories from Patrick Adonis and Chester Van Den Heever our guides who added such value to the experience.

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The 5km hike including Verlorenvlei and a visit to ‘The Vensterklip’ .

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Wine tasting at Fryers Cove in Doringbaai.

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A visit to the Sir Lambert vineyards a few kilometers inland from Lamberts Bay.

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A breakfast Bloody Mary at the Wit Mossel Pot in Lamberts Bay.

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An attempt at surfing or body boarding Elandsbaai’s famous left break waves.

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Kayaking on Verlorevlei.

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A night at the “International Pub” at Vensterklip.

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The town on Strandfontein. We were so busy we missed a whole town.

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The Sandveld Museum in Lamberts Bay to try on the old clothes and learn about the fishing industry.

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Lunch at the outdoor Muisbosskerm restaurant situated as close to the beach as you can get.

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Learning about the abalone farm in Doringbaai.

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Experiencing the Steenbokfontein farm and Tannie Kitta’s Plaaskombuis.

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A traditional fishbraai.

Who would love this trail? Serious hikers, nature lovers, casual walkers, photographers, birders, surfers, beach addicts and stressed folks needing to digitally detox. Families, foodies, eco-friendly people. The West Coast Way Wild Route is great for car enthusiasts who want a good day drive on quiet roads with interesting stops en route. Get yourself and your friends into the West Coast Wild Route and the Crayfish Trail. It’s pure relaxation in nature and your only worry is trying not to trip over a tortoise.

The back roads heading from the coast towards the N7

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Weather facts, when to visit WINTER, June and July. This would be my first choice. Fog and mist are more likely to occur than rain and the cooler temperatures mean you can hike all day. Wind is rare in winter, this is good as wind is my least favourite weather. Storms at sea are wild and invigorating. Dramatic, loud, and magnificent. AUTUMN is between March and May; cool temperatures make for pleasant hiking conditions and mist and fog create a great atmosphere. SPRING, August to October, is flower season where the region bursts into colour as wild flowers bloom, attracting visitors from hundreds of miles away. The temperatures are mild, but it can get windy, usually in the early afternoon, dropping around sunset. SUMMER, November to February, wind is highly likely in the afternoons and can get strong and annoying. The itinerary in summer usually starts early as first light is way before 6 am, hiking can be done in the cooler mornings and indoor activities or relaxation is scheduled for the windy afternoons. This trail is an all year round option depending on your personal weather requirements. What to take A comprehensive kit list is provided when you book. For me the not negotiable items are a camera, a sarong, hat, sunblock, bathing costume and water bottle.

wwww.westcoastway.co.za www.crayfishtrail.co.za Tel: +27 83 553 9107 Email: info@crayfishtrail.co.za

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Maasai women leading change These Maasai women are paying it forward and inspiring change in their communities words & pics - Claire Trickett / &Beyond 90 responsible traveller

his is a story of empowerment and upliftment, and it takes us to the world-famous and game-rich plains of Kenyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Masai Mara, where a small group of strong, fearless Maasai women are breaking down cultural boundaries and inspiring a new generation of never-before-seen gender equality among their traditionally male-dominated communities.

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There’s no denying that the women of Africa are resourceful, industrious and unrelentingly resilient. In the Maasai culture specifically, it is the women that are responsible for the daily household chores and cooking, the physical construction and ongoing maintenance of the homes, the child-rearing, as well as the timeconsuming and burdensome task of collecting firewood and clean water each and every day. Despite so much responsibility resting solely on their shoulders, a woman’s ‘place’ in traditional African society is often a precarious one. Historically, Maasai women have been forbidden from owning their own property and from accumulating their own worldly goods, cash included, but thankfully these long-held customs are slowly changing. In the Enkereri community, which is situated close to &Beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp, a pioneering group of enterprising women are turning tradition on its head and are not only earning a steady income for themselves (which in turn supports their families), but are also ensuring an education (and brighter future) for their children. Ramato Nooretet Kipas is the chairwoman of the 20 Women Group from Enkereri. Supported and empowered by Africa Foundation (our social development partner), these entrepreneurs have successfully established their own beekeeping project, which supplies our &Beyond lodges in Kenya with delicious, fresh Maasai honey. The beehives were supplied by Africa Foundation, however it is the determination and unwavering entrepreneurial spirit of these resolute women that keeps the business thriving. The 20 Women Group depends on this income for their livelihood and that of their families. In Kenya’s Saparingo community, which is also situated close to &Beyond Kichwa Tembo, a strong-willed woman by the name of Naisenya Seyio drives a number of projects focused on education. A single mother of six that never had the opportunity to attend school herself, this outspoken activist is an advocate for education and has put two of her sons through university. The only way Naisenya was able to manage this extraordinary feat is by tending to their family livestock on her own, on a daily basis, instead of adhering to the long-held tradition of relying on the children to carry out this traditional task. Naisenya’s son George, who was the welldeserving beneficiary of a CLEF (Community Leaders Education Fund) bursary through Africa 92 responsible traveller

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Foundation and &Beyond, studied actuarial science while his brother Emmanuel excelled in statistics. A regular volunteer at Saparingo Primary School, Naisenya mobilised her fellow women to pay it forward in the construction of the school. Under her inspiring leadership, each woman in the community collected sand from the nearby river to donate as construction material, a task that continued until the first classroom was complete. And more recently, when the school needed fencing, Naisenya outdid everyone else by donating five times the required materials for the work to be completed. In the nearby Olorien community, Natasha Emily Nailenya was one of our very first CLEF bursary recipients in Kenya. Rebelling against village customs, Natasha fled her home at the young age of 13 in order to escape the confines of an

early arranged marriage and instead lived with her aunt while she attended school. Determined to succeed, she qualified for a bursary to study agriculture at the University of Nairobi and became the first woman in her community to graduate. Moving on to even greater success, Natasha has now received government sponsorship to study for an MA in environmental governance. Each of these extraordinary and strong-willed women is an inspiration to others in their community. Leading by example, these women are dedicating their lives to changing social norms and improving not only their own lives, but also those of others. We are proud to have played a role, however small, in their lives and they inspire us to carry on telling their exceptional stories to the world. •

www.andbeyond.com

‘ Here’s to strong women. May we know them; may we be them; may we raise them..’

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What’s news... The World’s most exhilarating aerial race heads to Africa The skies above southern Africa are set to host one of the most spectacular aerial races on the planet next summer as the World’s only long distance paramotor race, the Icarus Trophy, visits the continent for the first time. For those not in the know, paramotoring is effectively flying with a motor tied to your back and a paragliding wing above your head and is growing rapidly as a sport. After three hotly contested editions in the United States, the last won by paramotoring legend Tucker Gott, July 2018 sees the Icarus Trophy migrate across the Atlantic to take to the skies above southern Africa. Like its predecessors the race will be roughly 1000 miles long, depending on the route contestants choose, but the 2018 edition, which begins just north of Johannesburg, before heading over Botswana and Zimbabwe and finishing near Victoria Falls in Zambia, will have the added complication of pilots having to cross international borders. As compensation the route will take in some of southern Africa’s most iconic landscapes, including the Kalahari Desert, numerous mountain ranges, the Okavango Delta

and salt pans, and give contestants views of these environments and their wildlife like no other. The race is split into two divisions; one for more experienced pilots racing for glory and an Adventure Division for the less seasoned racer who wants to take things at a more ‘leisurely pace’. Racing Division pilots are expected to cover the 1000 mile distance in a few days, with the record standing at a rather incredible four, whilst those in the Adventure Division will take around 10 days to fly the course. Bringing the Icarus Trophy to Africa means ‘adventure’ remains at the heart of the 2018 race for all pilots and it is for this reason The Icarus Trophy is a largely unsupported event. As the organisers point out… “Probably the key part of any adventure is the adventurous bits. And that means setting out into the world and fending for yourself. Anything else becomes a bit less exciting. It starts to remove all the fun bits, like ‘where the hell will I sleep?’ or ‘what do I do now I’ve run out of fuel?’ And it starts to become a bit of a guided tour.” •

www.icarustrophy.com

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What’s news... Developing South Africa’s Youth in the hands of the people Afrika Tikkun is an established global nonprofit organization with a focus on the African continent and the core brand belief that every young person has the potential to change the world. Here we take a more in-depth look at the lives of three young people that Afrika Tikkun is helping shape into tomorrow’s productive citizens through their ‘Cradle to Career’ model, which currently supports over 12 000 individual beneficiaries from early childhood development through to job placement. Afrika Tikkun’s Cradle to Career model has three core programmes: The Early Childhood Development centres are state-of-the-art facilities with a curriculum that produces school ready children. It is a four-year plan that starts age two and continues to Grade R, which follows the national curriculum. Throughout the programme children are cared for and supported through activities that assist in developing cognitive, physical and emotional skills, as well as improves the health and wellbeing of children through adequate nutrition, and ensures age-appropriate computer skills development.

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Kgopi Setsiba (5) started attending the ECD programme at the age of three and soon after starting was interacting with her classmates and participating in activities quite nicely, but in 2016 that changed. Kgopi lost her mother and she started to isolate herself in class, she lost enthusiasm for the programme and refused to take part in activities. With the help of her teacher, a social worker and her family Kgopi received the psychosocial support she needed and has since returned to her old self. She has shown tremendous development emotionally and her confidence has grown.Her teacher credits much of her confidence to her love for music and dance, “Kgopi is probably the best dancer in our ECD” she proudly said. The Child and Youth Development programme works holistically towards changing the environment in which young people aged seven to eighteen live in order to facilitate their emotional, intellectual, physical, mental and social development. The programme provides sports, arts and culture, learning and homework support, life skills and interventions tailored for specific age

What’s news... groups with the outcomes of a higher matric pass rate, positive life choices, taking responsibility for their own lives and further learning opportunities. Lindiwe Mabuya (19) says she first visited Afrika Tikkun with a friend who was returning a library book after school and after many years of attending as often as she could, she is now studying towards a degree through UNISA and volunteers for the organisation. When starting out at Afrika Tikkun she was an anti-social person and feared letting anyone in her space but after numerous experiences writing and delivering speeches she has learnt to concentrate, break through her fear of speaking in public and appreciate being able to express her opinion - even expressing herself in different ways depending on personalities and environments. Lindiwe says; “Youth are filled with so much passion and enthusiasm. and Afrika Tikkun enhances that… through Afrika Tikkun I have been challenged to never let the fear of failure dominate me… I focus on inspiration and positivity every day, and believe that I will reach my goals… There is a dream I have – all the world in union… I want to become a psychologist to understand what triggers the human mind and why other people do what they do... I want to help others find solutions to their problems.” The Youth Skills Development and Placement programme provides the likes of career guidance, job readiness training, entrepreneurial training, job placement and bursaries for further learning; targeted at young adults between nineteen and thirty-five years of age. The key outcome - with the aim of breaking the cycle of poverty - is that young people should be able to navigate the job market and access opportunities for sustainable employment or self-employment. Obed Mokgoko (23) lives in Alexandra. Before registering at Afrika Tikkun he was studying towards a Business Management Diploma but due to lack of finance was forced to stop. He struggled to find employment. He was referred to Afrika Tikkun by a friend and registered for the Youth Skills Development Programme. After graduating from the programme, Obed was placed at a branch of Woolworths and is currently working as a sales assistant, making his way up the corporate ladder. Obed says; “The little knowledge that I had combined with my Afrika Tikkun experience, boosted me to go forward. I was a bit shy when I started the training. Afrika Tikkun helped me to be stable, and boosted my morals and confidence. I was exposed to things that I wasn’t aware of and I

have acquired all of these skills free of charge.” In addition, Afrika Tikkun offers outreach and support services to children of all ages with programmes such as Nutrition and Food Security, Health Care, Gender Based Violence (GBV) and Child Abuse, Family Support and an Empowerment Programme for Children and Families Living with Disabilities. Onyi Nwaneri, Director of Partnerships of Afrika Tikkun says; “The stories that come out of this organization are inspirational to say the least and our focus on the holistic growth of young people across every phase of their development means that we see really great results from our programmes.” She continues; “These stories are so rewarding that we want all South Africans to share in the positive efforts being made and the gratifying outcomes, and our recently launched digital fundraising campaign – #AdventureFundraisers #MyAfrikaTikkun – allows just that. It is aimed at the greater public looking for a charity beneficiary to support. It is designed with convenience in mind, catering to the increasingly busy lifestyles of South Africans and the global move into the online space. But more importantly, we are leveraging the fundraising efforts of active citizens by putting the power in the hands of the people and the benefits in the hands of the next generation.” From running a local city marathon or swimming from the V&A Waterfront to Robben Island, to cycling across Africa, trekking across the Saharan dessert or walking the distance of the Great Wall of China; with adventure fundraising your own personal journey – no matter how big or small – can make a difference. All you have to do is: decide on an adventure and set a goal; register your campaign; share your news with friends and family, near and far, with your unique fundraising link and make use of Afrika Tikkun’s fundraising resources here: www. afrikatikkun.org/adventure-fundraising. Use the #MyAfrikaTikkun #AdventureFundraisers hashtags when sharing your news on social media and to your network and Afrika Tikkun will support your cause by sharing on their platforms. For more information on Afrika Tikkun and their initiatives call 011 325 5914, email info@ afrikatikkun.org or visit... •