Edition 6 - 2015

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R E S P O N S I B L E

edition 6 – 2015

be the difference

BIODIVERSITY & sustainability w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a


Competition Question: In what year was Karkloof Canopy Tour established? SMS your answer to 083 290 3323 and stand a chance to win 1 of 4 Canopy Tours worth R595 each.

Quote ‘Responsible Traveller’ & Save R200pp Valid till: 15th Dec 2015

033 330 3415 / 076 241 2888

www.karkloofcanopytour.co.za


Comment Welcome to another DIGITAL edition of Responsible Traveller… This edition is about biodiversity and sustainability. I get to stay closer to home in this edition, with a long weekend spent meandering through the KZN Midlands, tasting Granny Mouse’s fine dining and checking out their recycling and repurposing initiatives and a couple of days (which felt like a week) at Kosi Forest Lodge exploring forests, channels, lakes - and sand. The realisation of this is that you don’t always have to venture far from home to have wonderful, relaxing and (almost) exotic holiday. Rowan follows up on his epic Desert Knights adventure with some detail on the biodiverstity and geology of the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park (South Africa and Namibia) - proof that ‘it’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see’ (Henry David Thoreau). We also get to check out the winners of the World Responsible Tourism Awards and look forward to the second African Responsible Tourism Awards to be held at WTM Africa in April 2016. I hope you’ll be inspired to ‘see’ rather that just ‘look’, whether its a day trip in your local city, a hike in a nearby nature reserve or an epic adventure that takes you to a distant destination! See beyond the obvious, ask questions and learn and appreciate what is around you. Remember to choose travel that makes a difference... choose to support local travel businesses - from accommodation and eating out, to fun activities and shopping. But above all, have fun connecting with people from different walks of life and different cultures… enjoy sharing a laugh and a smile. Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

tessa Magazine Information edition 6 - 2015 Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published bi-monthly

Cover Image: Boating on the channels of Kosi Bay pic - Kosi Forest Lodge ©

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents Regulars:

20

Comment

03

Being a Responsible Traveller

06

Travel Tips from the market place

44

Destinations & Places to Stay:

34

White sand & wilderness - Kosi Forest Lodge

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Meandering through the Midlands

28

Granny Mouse Country House & Spa

34

Adventures & Activities: Biodiversity & Geology... the importance of seeing

64

Making a Difference: #EveryBirdCounts

20

News:

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WESGRO continues support for African Responsible Tourism Awards 24 Fair Trade Tourism - and what it means...

67

World Responsible Tourism Awards 2015... the Winners

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Gansbaai is Gold

27

Montagu Country Hotel becomes FTT certified

69

www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller



Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy. • Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims. • Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods. • Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location. • If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair. • Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different. • Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes. • Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate. • Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge. • Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

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• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals. • Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence. • Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you. • Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy. • Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language. • When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com



White sand &

WILDERNESS words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

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Sandy tracks in the coastal plain responsible traveller 09


T

his unspoilt wilderness is a balm for the weary soul – even before we finally arrived I could feel the busyness of life drifting away. The landscape, dotted with palms and young boys herding cattle – the wonderfully colourful Ngunis, with creative names like ‘flies in the buttermilk’ and ‘the eggs of the lark’ – the big skies and mile upon mile of soft white sand. All of which we would become closely acquainted with over the next few days…

Great Plains Conservation - Selinda Camp

Kosi Forest Lodge is a private lodge situated near the upper lakes of the Kosi Lake system in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. The lodge is set within a beautiful sand forest on the banks of Lake Shengeza, and offers comfortable, semitented accommodation, wonderful cuisine and offers a host of estuarine, beach and wilderness activities – most with a conservation and cultural emphasis.. Being in a four wheel drive vehicle we were able to self drive to the lodge. It soon became apparent why it said ‘4x4 only’ – low range was required as we traversed the sandy roads, our SUV (and my husband) delighting in a bit of action. We were invited into the shade of a huge Zulu podberry tree (Dialium schlechteri), welcomed with a refreshing drink, a warm handshake and broad smile from Blessing, the Lodge Manager. Blessing is a local man and has been part of the Kosi Bay Lodge team right from the start… but that’s another story for another time. Not being prone to dilly dallying, we chose to quickly drop everything in our thatched bush suite and head out for a guided walk through the magnificent Raffia Palm Forest. Phaqa, our guide, grew up in the area and shares his knowledge of the biodiversity of the forest, including that the Kosi palm (Raphia australis) flowers only once in its life and then dies – thankfully this takes in the region of forty years. He showed us the fruit in its various stages of ripening and pointed out a tiny palm tree still, its seed still attached. We glance up to see an adult palmnut vulture alighting from the crown of a fruiting Kosi palm – they were thought to be the only vegetarian vulture species, but Phaqa assures us that they are opportunists and will scavenge fish from the African fish eagle given half a chance. 10 responsible traveller

‘Phaqa, our guide, grew up in the area and shares his knowledge of the biodiversity of the forest, including that of the Kosi Palm...’


Raphia australis... in the forest, fruiting and the seeds

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As we ventured deeper into the forest, the Kosi palms towering above us, I stand in awe at the size of the fronds that are said to be the longest in the world at about 10 metres. They are incredibly strong as well as buoyant and are used by the local Thonga people as building materials for both huts and rafts. Walking waist deep through indigenous ferns we glimpse the Sihadla channel, lined with swamp fig (Ficus trichopoda), umdoni (Syzegium cordatum) and mangrove trees - the only area in South Africa where five species of mangrove are found, two of which (Luminitzera racemosa and Ceriops tagal) are at the southernmost limit of their distribution – as well as reeds and ferns. Phaqa leads us into a clearing on the edge of the channel and points out the raft on the other side. “This is the way the locals here cross the channel” he says, and invites us to do the same… we happily accept. Birding along these channels is particularly good and we quickly tick off African jacana, lesser jacana, purple gallinule, African pygmy goose and squacco heron. Our early morning canoeing adds a few more species to the list including the Livingstone turaco, African darter and African fish eagle. A highlight of our stay at Kosi Forest Lodge has to be the guided canoe trip along the Sihadla channel and onto fourth lake. The reflection of Kosi palms on the rippled surface of the water; the call of the fish eagle as we glide past lilac

‘Walking waist deep through indigenous ferns we glimpse the Sihadla channel, lined with swamp fig, umdoni and mangrove trees...’

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Kosi Forest walk


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The magnificent Kosi palms along the Sihadla channel

Canoeing on the channel

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‘A highlight of any stay at Kosi Forest Lodge has to be the guided canoe trip along the Sihadla channel and onto fourth lake...’

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‘The sea, lakes and channels interconnect seamlessly in a wonderful swirl of colour that changes with the ebb and flow of the tides...’ water lilies, and iridescent blue swallowtail butterflies – all too soon we were heading back to camp for a hearty breakfast. Blessing suggested we go snorkelling at Kosi Mouth. Armed with snorkelling gear and an amply packed picnic basket we headed out, permit in hand and ready for more 4x4 action. And action it is, the sand is soft and the tyres choose their own path – much like we do some days – we pause on the ridge, the views are spectacular. The sea, lakes and channels interconnect seamlessly in a wonderful swirl of colour that change with the ebb and flow of the tides. The traditional Kosi fish traps look like the stitches of an intricate tapestry, displaying a random kind of symmetry. We make our way 16 responsible traveller

down and on closer inspection see a couple of Tsonga fishermen, one fishing the traditional way, another with fishing rod in hand. I smile. The fish traps (or kraals as they’re sometimes referred to) are passed down from father to son, some are personally ‘farmed’ others are ‘rented out’ for an annual fee – traditional fisherman turned entrepreneur. Change, I guess, is inevitable. The day is warm and the water beckons, despite the wind and the incoming tide the water is crystal clear and wonderfully warm. I’m amazed at the variety of aquatic life we see – devil fire fish, angel fish, shoals of bright little fish and even a moray eel, it’s no wonder this is known as ‘the aquarium’. Time to find a spot to open up the picnic basket…


Kosi Bay

Kosi fish traps

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Another option is the full day boat trip offered by the lodge. Guests get experience the series of interconnected lakes and channels making up the Kosi Lake system which stretches over some 18km. A highlight of this would surely be the opportunity to walk through the famous Kosi Bay fish traps. Other activities on offer include a picnic and swim at Bhanga Nek and seasonal turtle tracking (15 November to 15 January). It is an incredible sight watching a giant leatherback or loggerhead turtle heave her way up the shore to lay her eggs in the sand - they make their way home having swum the length of the continent in a return journey to the beach where they were born, often laying

Images - Kosi Forest Lodge ©

Kosi Forest Lodge at dusk

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their eggs within meters of where they emerged as a hatchling many years previously. We head back to the lodge, sun-kissed, sandy… and satisfied. I lie back in the bubbles of the outdoor bath, alone with my thoughts. The late afternoon sun filters through the canopy of a large umdoni tree, the reeds screen me from prying eyes and stepping stones dot the soft white sand. I ponder our time here, what we have experienced and what we still want to do another visit is most definitely in order. Roused from my slumber by the urgent chatter of a scarlet-chested sunbird, I smile, realising I am not alone. •


Kosi Forest Lodge & responsible tourism Kosi Forest Lodge operates in a partnership with Isibindi Africa and the uMvumamvubu Development Trust, on behalf of the Myayiza community. The property on which Kosi Forest Lodge is located has been fenced into the Kosi Bay Nature Reserve which is part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, an area of unique biodiversity and natural beauty with three major lake systems, eight interlinking ecosystems and 280kms of pristine coastline. Operating within this very unique and precious environment is a huge privilege and the lodge makes it possible for people to access and enjoy the incredible variety and beauty of the lake system, Raffia forests, swamp forests, estuary and Maputaland Marine Reserve. Kosi Forest Lodge takes the responsibilities that come with this privilege very seriously, both to the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and its conservation ethics, and to the community. In consideration of these ethics the rooms and lodge buildings were built on raised stilts to render as light an imprint as possible. Rooms were sensitively placed around trees, with special care not to disturb the canopy. Low impact LED lighting and paraffin lanterns are used, and the water from the communal areas is filtered through a natural reed bed system. In November 1996 the uMvumamvubu Development Trust, on behalf of the Myayiza community, negotiated a 30 year lease with Isibindi Africa Lodges to develop and manage a lodge on community owned property at the edge of Lake Shengeza. The lodge sources 80% of its employees from the local community, providing families with much needed work and income in a rural area with low employment. The local community also earn an income by offering cultural activities to the lodge, and local produce for sale. For groups and special occasions the local children are invited to perform some of their traditional dances, which are always well appreciated by guests, who usually come from all over the world and enjoy being introduced to the beautiful and unique Tsonga culture. Probably the most notable benefit that the community has seen from the inception of the lodge is the building of a centre used for a mobile clinic. This centre sees dedicated doctors visiting the area three days a week to treat and advise the people who would otherwise find access to medical help extremely difficult and expensive.

www.isibindi.co.za

Blessing with a few of the Lodge ladies responsible traveller 19


#EveryBirdCounts

CONSERVATION PROFILE

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Images - African Penguin & Seabird Sanctuary ©

CONSERVATION PROFILE

I

n a joint conservation action between the African Penguin & Seabird Sanctuary (APSS), a project of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust and CapeNature, the management authority for Dyer Island, 32 African Penguin chicks were removed from Dyer Island (Gansbaai, South Africa) on Wednesday 11 November 2015 and admitted to the APSS for care. The Trust was started by Wilfred Chivell of Fair Trade certified businesses Dyer Island Cruises and Marine Dynamics Tours and it is through the efforts of these companies that the conservation work is a reality. The team used Dream Catcher, Dyer Island Cruises new boat, to move the chicks after receiving them from Happy Feet, a rubber dinghy donated by Nautic to the APSS.

and the chicks are normally fledged before the onset of moulting. If the timing of these two phases overlap, the adult penguins could perish from starvation; therefore, penguin parents sometimes must abandon their chicks before they are fully fledged. “If not for the efforts of the chick bolstering project, these abandoned chicks would starve to death” says Deon.

According to Deon Geldenhuys, Conservation Manager from CapeNature they closely monitor the development of the chicks on the island at this time of the year. Deon explained that the penguin life cycle is basically divided into two phases: breeding and moulting. The moulting phase begins shortly after the breeding season

Xolani Lawo, Senior Bird Rehabilitator at the APSS explained that the chicks will receive special care and enough fish to fatten them up during their stay at the sanctuary. According to Xolani, the chicks will be released back on Dyer Island once they have reached the required weight and they have a clean bill of health. responsible traveller 21


CONSERVATION PROFILE

‘Happy penguins, doing what penguins do best, thanks to the nesting boxes provided by Dyer Island Conservation Trust...’

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

African penguin colonies are declining at an alarming rate - the present population is only 2.5% of its level 80 years ago. Around 141 000 breeding pairs of African penguins were counted in 1956, but last year the total had plummeted to only 19,000 pairs - a loss of nearly 90% in half a century. “We are therefore at a point where every bird that we can save, counts” says Xolani. . “At the APPS we do the hard work of cutting sardines into sushi sized pieces, washing more towels than you can ever imagine, feeding all the begging little orphans and scrubbing & disinfecting the sanctuary daily but it is through the generosity of the public that we are able to do this work.” says Xolani. The African Penguin & Seabird Sanctuary is situated in Kleinbaai, Gansbaai and is open from 09:00 to 16:00 on a daily basis. Visitors can observe the penguins through one way glass and enjoy the coffee and cake on offer. Where possible, there is a feeding time at approx. 15h30 that visitors can observe. •

Should you wish to assist our feathered friends below are a couple of ways to do so: •

Contribute to the Fishy Fund – R100 per 5kg box – donate as many boxes as you wish.

You can also support a booster block at R1000 which means that you can have your name as a permanent supporter on the entrance wall to the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary.

All donations can be done via Paypal on www.africanpenguin.org Makes a great ‘anytime’ gift for the person who has everything!! The African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary is a project of the Dyer Island Conservation Trust, a registered Public Benefit Organisation(930032314) in terms of section 30 of the Income Tax Act 58 of 1962 and donations to the organisation are exempt from donations tax in terms of section 56(1) (h) of the Act. African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary FNB Hermanus 200412 A/C 62568492343

www.africanpenguin.org responsible traveller 23


What’s news... WESGRO continues support for Responsible Tourism Awards at WTM® Africa

Winners of the 2016 African Responsible Tourism Awards, a part of the World Responsible Tourism Awards, will be announced in Cape Town at the CTICC during Africa Travel Week 2016. The African Responsible Tourism Awards are organised by Better Tourism Africa, with support from Responsible Travel and hosted by World Travel Market Africa (WTM Africa). The World Responsible Tourism Awards is the leading global awards recognising achievement and innovation in responsible tourism. In 2015 the awards founded by Responsible Travel celebrated 12 years at WTM London. Twelve tourism businesses from Africa were gold and silver winners in the 2015 World Responsible Tourism Awards – several of these were category winners in the 2015 African round. Wesgro Chief Marketing Officer, Judy Lain congratulated Gansbaai for winning the award for the best Destination at the 2015 Responsible Tourism Awards, “Awards like these are achieved as a result of hard work, a common vision and the commitment undertaken by all industry role players in Gansbaai to develop tourism in a

SOME OF THE 2015 WINNERS...

“As the official tourism, trade and investment promotion agency for Cape Town and the Western Cape, it is imperative that responsible tourism is a guiding principle in all we do. To this end we are pleased to announce that Wesgro will be the headline sponsor of the 2016 Africa Responsible Tourism Awards” says Judy. Carol Weaving, Managing Director for Thebe Reed Exhibitions, organiser of WTM Africa, says: “As WTM Africa grows and develops as Africa’s leading travel and tourism event we are so encouraged by the incremental interest shown in the importance of Responsible Tourism. It is integral to the success of tourism on the continent. All stakeholders have a duty to ensure education, sustainability and authenticity when promoting the unique experiences that Africa has to offer. We are proud to host the African Responsible Tourism Awards once again, here in Cape Town at the CTICC at WTM Africa” Justin Francis, managing director of Responsible Travel, the organisers and founders of the World Responsible Tourism Awards says: “The success of African businesses at the recent World Responsible Tourism Awards shows there is real energy around responsible tourism across Africa. With the launch Coffeebeans Routes

Image - Jesse Nedier ©

Chumbe Island Coral Park

sustainable manner. It is also important that we congratulate Bushmans Kloof and Grootbos who took silver in their respective categories. “

Image - Oskar Henriksson ©

For the second year running, Wesgro - the tourism, trade and investment promotion agency for the Western Cape - is the main sponsor for the 2016 African Responsible Tourism Awards.

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What’s news... of the second African Responsible Tourism Awards we’re excited to uncover more businesses which are changing the face of African tourism; the passionate individuals and organisations who by caring for communities and conservation are creating better places to live as well as better places to visit. I’d like to encourage tourism businesses across the continent to submit an entry – big or small, we want to hear your story”.

As part of the World Responsible Tourism Awards family, the judging process for the African Responsible Tourism Awards is chaired by Harold Goodwin, Professor of Responsible Tourism at Manchester Metropolitan University, and Director of the International Centre for Responsible Tourism and Chair of the main World Responsible Tourism Awards judging panel since its inception.

The inaugural African Responsible Tourism Awards in 2015 generated significant participation across Africa. Heidi van der Watt of Better Tourism Africa, the organisers and founders of the African Responsible Tourism Awards comments: “Watching one after the other winner from Africa taking the stage at the 2015 World Responsible Tourism Awards was truly exhilarating. A full 16 countries, truly covering Africa from north-south and eastwest, were represented in the 2015 African Responsible Tourism Awards.”

“The launch of the African Responsible Tours Awards as part of the family of World Responsible Tourism Awards with the presentations to the gold and silver winners at WTM London and WTM Africa raises awareness of the importance of taking responsibility for making tourism better and celebrates those who are making a difference. Africa featured strongly in the World Awards this year - the judges can only recognise those who are nominated, please spread the world and encourage those you admire to apply in 2016” says Harold Goodwin. •

“ In 2016, we hope to extend the reach of the African Responsible Tourism Awards into all countries in Africa. We encourage our partners on the continent to help encourage entries – help us showcase to the world the vast array of African tourism business following the beat of a different drum.”

www.responsibletravel.com

Entries for the 2016 African Responsible Tourism Awards opened on Thursday 3 December 2015, and can be made on the awards website until 15 January 2016. Chobe Game Lodge

Image - Grootbos ©

Image - Stuart Parker ©

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve

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responsible travel responsible travel

©Harry Stone with Marine Dynamics

“I met one of my favourite White Sharks in 2007, a young, 2m long female we named Nemo. She arrived with very bad injuries, missing her left pectoral fin and had a dorsal fin sliced in half, possibly from encountering a longliner. She seemed so fragile. In 2011, I couldn’t believe my eyes when Nemo reappeared measuring over 4m in length! She had put on a good couple hundred kilos. We managed to deploy a satellite tag on her which recorded an epic migration - in just two months from leaving Gansbaai, Nemo was hanging about off the Madagascan coastline!” Alison Towner | Marine Biologist, Marine Dynamics

www.discoverctwc.co.za discoverctwc @discoverctwc discoverctwc #discoverctwc


What’s news... Gansbaai is Gold Gansbaai recently won Best Destination Responsible Tourism at the World Travel Market, London, in the Responsible Tourism Awards. The awards are celebrated on World Responsible Tourism day at what is known as the world’s largest tourism event. From over a thousand entries, the shortlist was whittled down from 206 long listed entries originating from 69 countries to the final winners in 12 categories. The ceremony opened with a lively debate on climate change and the role of the tourism industry that was attended by Minister of Tourism Derek Hanekom. The event was filmed by BBC Travel News and MC’d by BBC host Stephen Sackur. Gansbaai was up against Aruba and Cyprus. This is what was said by Sackur as the award was handed out: Gansbaai is home to a cluster of responsible tourism businesses, which include Grootbos and Marine Dynamics, both previous winners of our Responsible Tourism Awards.

The area was further represented by Wilfred Chivell of Marine Dynamics who spoke on a responsible tourism panel: Taking Responsibility for Wildlife and National Parks. “Most conservation centres on land animals so it was good to give the great white shark and the African penguin some airtime,” says Wilfred. Chairperson of the tourism bureau, Brenda du Toit was sponsored by Marine Dynamics and was also there. Other notable attendees from South Africa included Heidi van der Watt from Better Tourism Africa and Nivashnee Naidoo from Fair Trade Tourism . •

www.responsibletravel.com

Image - Brenda du Toit ©

They are applauded for their commitment to local development and income generation programmes, and for investment in environmental conservation and education. The judges were impressed by how much more the businesses have been able to achieve by working together and in cooperation with local government.

“This is a great WIN for Gansbaai but only the start of what can really be achieved if we continue to focus on the greater good of our environment and our communities” said Glenda Kitley, manager of the Gansbaai Tourism Bureau who was there to receive the award, courtesy of WESGRO and the Overstrand Municipality. “Grootbos won silver in the category Poverty Reduction and the area is proud of their achievement,” Glenda adds. “We hope that this award will encourage other businesses to follow some of the winning examples”.

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Meandering through the

MIDLANDS

T

he KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, with its green and softly wavy landscape, brings quiet to the soul with its pastures, forests and myriad of waterfalls, lakes, dams. And if just being there isn’t enough, this region offers an eclectic and fascinating mix of arts and crafts, sublime spas, world-class restaurants and homely comforts, with a wide range of adventurous, natural and historical pursuits. The famed Midlands Meander, which runs mainly between Howick and Nottingham Road, is a veritable treasure offering delightful shopping and browsing, including numerous antique shops, art galleries and arts and crafts studios with the potential of turning every visit into a truly memorable experience. Activities abound to keep kids entertained for hours with unusual activities like candle dipping, painting plates or – for a real treat – chocolate 28 responsible traveller

dipping. There is also plenty to occupy adventure enthusiasts, from hot air ballooning to kloofing and canopy tours, while a choice of cafes and restaurants make it a foodie haven. Looking for a memorable spa experience? Visitors will be spoilt for choice as the Midlands provides sophisticated spa seekers with an enviable range of treatments and rituals using the world’s favourite spa products alongside traditional African treatments.


words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

‘Take a few moments to sit and gaze upon the iconic steel sculpture and deliberate how you can make a difference in this wonderful country...’

Mandela capture Site responsible traveller 29


Piggly Wiggly Country Village

Be sure to visit the Mandela Capture Site just outside Howick for a reminder of just how far South Africa has come in its journey to democracy. Take a few moments to sit and gaze upon the iconic steel sculpture and deliberate how you can make a difference in this wonderful country. The Piggly Wiggly Country Village is a popular spot, especially if you’re pressed for time and unable to visit all the spots on the Midlands Meander. Spend time browsing through old books at Huddy’s Book Shop or stock up on artisinal local produce at Three Fat Pigs - there are plenty of quant little shops to keep you busy and fun activities and a playground for the kids too. For unique and vibrant ceramic artworks visit the internationally acclaimed Ardmore Ceramic Art studio where you can watch artists working, visit their gallery and museum and afterwards enjoy tea overlooking the Lions River. The Wood Turner is home to John and Andrew Early, who use only salvaged wood – mostly from ‘exotic’ species like jacaranda, Pinoak, Blackwood and Indian Mahogany. Each bowl is turned from wet wood, left to dry for up to four years, and then re-turned, sanded, waxed and oiled. These pieces will continue to dry throughout their lifetime, making them living works of art. At Dargle Valley the artwork includes porcelain, stoneware, terracotta as well as indoor and outdoor fireplaces created by Ian Glenny who founded the Midlands Meander. 30 responsible traveller


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Image - www.panoramio.com Š


Sterling’s Wrought Iron produce unique wrought iron furniture and accessories, from heavily forged iron to the delicate French wirework - made from recycled materials where possible. Should food and wine be more to your taste, pop in at the Swissland Cheese Farm where you get to see how the various cheeses are made from goat’s milk, or Indezi River Creamery for artisanal speciality cheeses made from cows’ and goats’ milk. Indezi produce is available at The Dairy Shoppe on the farm or from Three Fat Pigs at Piggly Wiggly Country Village. Set high on a hill overlooking the beautiful Caversham Valley is a little piece of Switzerland and Gunther’s hospitality - enjoy a light meal of German sausage plus draft and wine at Gunthers German Sausages. Foodie’s will enjoy the full tasting hosted by Romesco Olives who specialise in marinating Calamata olives in extra virgin olive oil – eat the olives and use the oil to drizzle over roasted vegetables and salads. Visit the Abingdon Wine Estate’s very popular tasting room and restaurant overlooking the vineyard – it is open Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays for tastings and deliciously fresh lunches (visits and wine sales on weekdays by prior arrangement only).

And those looking for the perfect cup have plenty of choice: from fabulous ‘latte art’ at Wanda’s Café near Midmar Dam, a cup of artisan roasted espresso at Terbodore Coffee Roasters in Lions River to a cappuccino at Blueberry Café in Nottingham Road… with blueberry cheesecake of course! Something that no visit to the Midlands would be complete without is a visit to the famous ‘Notties’ brewery in the grounds of Rawdon’s Hotel in Nottingham Road, where you will get to taste the various beers that are brewed. If it’s an adrenaline-charged adventure you want, then head to Karkloof Canopy Tours where you will zip through the forest canopy, glide past waterfalls and view the incredible birdlife whilst learning about the forest around you. A more leisurely pursuit that could be considered an obsession is fly fishing. The tranquil waters of the Midlands abound with opportunities to test your skills against a most wily opponent, but regardless of the outcome such will derive satisfaction irrespective of the result. Longing for some much needed R&R? Check out, or even better, check into one of these ‘destination’ spas…

Image - Karkloof Canopt Tours ©

Karkloof Canopy Tour

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GRANNY MOUSE COUNTRY HOUSE & SPA , renowned for its ‘welcome home’ hospitality and an ambience that’s all about elegant comfort, is a place to catch up on some serious relaxation and pampering. The on-site spa offers a wide range of treatments ranging from massage treatments to body wraps and exfoliations as well as skin enhancers, hydrotherapy and much more. The Spa is equipped with four treatment rooms, a hydro room, Jacuzzi, steam room, gym and a relaxation area.

‘Be pampered by at hands of a local masseuse, breathe in the fragrant fresh air and relax at the sound of running water...’

Midlands Meander www.midlandsmeander.co.za Granny Mouse Country House & Spa Tel: +27 33 324 4071 www.grannymouse.co.za Fordoun Spa, Hotel & Restaurant Tel: +27 33 266 6217 www.fordoun.com Indigo Fields Tel: +27 33 266 6101 www.indigofields.co.za

Situated in the green pastures of a successful Nottingham Road dairy farm is the FORDOUN SPA, HOTEL & RESTAURANT. The original farm buildings have been painstakingly adapted into this atmospheric and gracious establishment which is firmly committed to the environment through a number of environmental and social initiatives. One of these initiatives is the cultivation of indigenous healing plants. The traditional medicinal trade in South Africa harvests plants mostly from the wild without considering sustainability or conservation resulting in many plants becoming endangered. At Fordoun, in partnership with Dr Elliot Ndlovu (herbalist and ethnobotanist), over 130 varieties of indigenous healing plants are grown and researched for suitability as crops which may be grown for teas, cosmetics, culinary or medicinal uses. Extracts from a number of these plants are already being used in their in our Ndlovu range of Spa products. A fanciful drive down a windy dirt road brings you to INDIGO FIELDS. A family run country house, spa and gallery overlooking the misty Balgowan Valley… and as the name suggests, surrounded by fields of lavender. Come for just a few hours and you’ll be spending the day or even the night. Indigo Fields offers a variety of spa options at their African Day Spa – be pampered at the hands of a local masseuse, breathe in the fragrant fresh air of the outdoor boma and relax at the sound of running water. Then wine and dine like royalty from the farmhouse kitchen, savour the taste of a legendary Indigo Fields quiche created from the organic veggie garden. Step into the rhythm of country living. There are a number of wonderful spa experiences to choose from in the KZN Midlands, with some of the establishments committed in some way to responsible tourism - but without a doubt all offering wonderful hospitality and the opportunity to explore this delightful region. Choose one or try them all, you’ll certainly be spoilt for choice. • responsible traveller 33


GR ANNY MOUSE C ountr y Hous e & Sp a...

words - Tessa Buhrmann pics - Tessa Buhrmann / Granny Mouse 34 responsible traveller


Strolling down the garden path

G

ranny Mouse is as welcoming as I remember although this time the trees were clothed in the lush green of early summer and the paths lined with colourful blooms. Our previous visit saw a gardener fighting an endless battle with falling leaves, roaring fires, wonderful cappuccinos and a welcome glass of sherry – fitting for a late autumn arrival.

You notice the seasons in the KZN Midlands, not only by the landscape and the temperatures, but also by the produce. And Executive Chef Shaun Christian creates gastronomic delights representative of local produce and season. Think wonderful creations like the fig & blue cheese tartlet I had for lunch at The Bistro – served with rocket salad from the ‘hanging garden’, olives from Ramona Olives in Nottingham Road, balsamic dressing and sundried tomato pesto (most likely locally sourced too). The cheese of course is local too and comes from Indezi Cheese… be sure to buy some on your way home from the Three Fat Pigs Cheese & Deli at Piggly Wiggly. Other favourites were Bruschetta with smoked trout and citrus mousse, a Midlands cheese board served with pineapple chutney and homemade crackers and my absolute favourite the peanut butter and honey cheesecake with peanut brittle and berry compote – be warned though, it’s decadently delicious and as Shaun says, most definitely comfort food (inspired by peanut butter and honey sandwiches). I had the opportunity of chatting to Chef Shaun and GM Sean (General Manager Sean Granger) – it gets confusing here as there is also Maintenance Shaun! We chatted about all things sustainable, from their procurement policies to waste management and community involvement. It is very clear to see that the ethos of sustainability at Granny Mouse is not just window dressing. This is evident from the moment you arrive in your room – the usual wad of info has been replaced by the click of a button on the flat screen TV (easy to operate and just as easy to update), room amenities are from the Lavender Co (a Howick based company producing products made from all natural ingredients) and the hand made soap from Durban. Even the current glossy magazines have a life hereafter… they are pulped with water and turned into discs to house the ‘home-made’ fire lighters. The lighting is obviously energy saving, the responsible traveller 35


Mark Robson explaining how the top of the bottle fits into the bottom

Hanging baskets with pine needles on top of a pile of potting soil

shower head low-flow and the laundry done with biodegradable cleaners – even the grey water from the laundry is re-used. Walking around the extensive property with Sean (GM) and being privy to ‘back-of-house’ operations once again reminded me of how many great initiatives go unseen and un-celebrated. I got to see the recycling centre which sorts and collects glass, paper, plastic, tins and food waste. The dry waste is collected two to three times a week by members of the local community providing an income source for a number of families, and food waste collected by a local pig farmer. Sean pointed out a pile of branches that would normally have 36 responsible traveller

Dried egg shells ready to be added to the potting mix

gone unnoticed, these are wet with grey water from the laundry (softens the branches and speeds up decomposition) and after a few weeks added to the compost bins. All other garden refuse makes it into these bins and after a few months of turning is ready to be returned to the gardens. All egg shells are dried and crushed and added to gardens, flower posts and the potting soil used in the ‘hanging gardens’. To say I loved the ‘hanging gardens’ is an understatement… this ‘garden art’ project was undertaken by Gardener Mark Robson after noticing the number of bottles sent to recycyling on a monthly basis. Mark uses the plastic bottles to


Dried teabags waiting for their wax treatment

Repurposed fireplace water feature

Paper discs made from old magazines

Burning firelighter

create a cost-effective hanging garden for herbs, greens and decorative edible flowers such as nasturtiums and cornflower. This project has been such a success that it will be expanded onto more walls thereby supplying even more greens and blossoms for Chef Shaun’s wonderful creations. A great project to try at home… The ‘homemade firelighters’ is another great DIY recycling project that you can try at home. Used teabags, of which there are many (think traditional morning tea with cream scones) are collected, dried out, placed in used egg boxes and then drizzled with liquid wax (all the old candles are collected and melted for this purpose). Each ‘firelighter’

is then placed on a paper disc (made from old magazines) ready for use in the 45 communal log burning fireplaces… and hopefully in guest suites sometime soon. Mark’s ‘back garden’ is where seedlings are planted in readiness for each season, where the flower pots are tended and hanging baskets created. Instead of purchasing coir liners for the flower baskets, Mark uses pine needles collected from beneath the pines that line the driveway – a great alternative in keeping with his DIY eco-philosophy. Other wonderful DIY projects are the water features, many using repurposed materials like old responsible traveller 37


Image - Granny Mouse Š

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The view from Mission Lodge

‘The rich colours of royalty are everywhere, from plush purple chairs in the entrance to vibrant Persian carpets in the change rooms...’

corrugated iron roof sheeting and bath taps from a renovation of yesteryear, and even an old fireplace boasts a new life as a water feature. You cannot help but notice the gardens at Granny Mouse – the neatly mown lawns bordered with flowerbeds bursting forth in colour, shape and form. Fanciful signs bring a smile to the face and I cannot help wondering if closer inspection would yield a fairy or two. Such is the pleasure of a stroll through the gardens. One such stroll had me heading to the Spa… from the fanciful world of fairies I now stepped into a world of pampering that had me feeling like a princess. The rich colours of royalty are everywhere, from plush purple chairs in the entrance to vibrant Persian carpets in the change rooms. The subtle fragrance of essential oils that permeates the air, and the firm yet gentle hands moving rhythmically up and down my back. I leave relaxed, with just enough time for an afternoon nap before dressing for some fine dining under the eaves. responsible traveller 39


Image - Granny Mouse ©

The Eaves fine dining restaurant boasts both an award winning menu and wine list, which Albert, the newly appointed F&B Manager proudly tells us. He also tells us that many of his friends laugh when he explains the title as ‘food and beverage’ as many of them first thought he worked for a local bank and ask what branch he works for!

jellied tomato and coriander, chilli and lime, turned mushrooms and crispy noodles served with a 2012 Hartenberg Riesling. To the Citrus Soufflé with orange brandy cream, brulé citrus segments with sable biscuit accompanied with the fruity fragrances of a Fort Simon Viognier Noble Late Harvest desert wine.

Joking aside, he then suggests we try the five course degustation menu, a beautiful representation of the ‘finest local, seasonal ingredients available’ paired with equally fine and deliciously smooth local South African wines. Each plated course a delight to the senses… from the Tom Yum soup served with crunchy prawns, 40 responsible traveller

We took our coffee in one of the lounges – plopping onto a comfy couch seemed the appropriate thing to do after such a wonderful meal. It gave us time to savour our coffee, to notice the railway sleeper beam across the doorway with heavy curtains should we need the privacy, to notice the old AGA stove in the original farmhouse


Images - Granny Mouse ©

B eautiful cuisine create d and garnishe d from lo c ally source d pro duce and ‘home grown’ gre ens from Granny Mouse’s garden

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Bathroom bliss...

The garden features everywhere!

kitchen and the steps leading down to the wine cellar, a space that would have stored bags of grain, bottles of preserves, hanging bunches of garlic and onions and much more. On our way back to our suite we spot a door high up in a wall … we later find out that room was the original stables and the door was the opening to the hay storage area. The rolling hills of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands certainly welcomed us with open arms and Granny Mouse – the house, the people, the cuisine and the gardens – embraced us with a sense of being, a sense of restoration and purpose, a sense of sustainability. 42 responsible traveller

Click HERE to check out our previous Granny Mouse experience...

w w w.grannymouse.co.za Huge thanks to GRANNY MOUSE COUNTRY HOUSE & SPA for hosting us and for facilitating our wonderful experience.


Our luxurious suite

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T R AV E L T I P S

Image - www.wikimedia.org

from the market place‌

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H

eading out on holiday in South Africa this summer? Make sure you pack a pair of sunglasses, plenty sunscreen and comfortable shoes!

Part of being a responsible traveller is supporting local communities, and that often means heading off the main stream. And South Africa is blessed with an abundance of off-the-beaten-track, outof-the-ordinary gems to add to your travel bucket list – and CHEAPFLIGHTS got off the highways and onto the byways to find them for you!

10 Great off-beat places to visit: Set your sights on Sutherland Sutherland is in the heart of the Roggeveld region in the Karoo, and is home to its own unique architecture, with buildings incorporating the area’s distinctive grey stone. There are graveyards dating back to the Anglo Boer war, including two gravestones for the same soldier… Sutherland also boasts the youngest (inactive) volcano south of the Equator, as well as rich findings of fossils. The town is not only famous for the depth of its history – this is the place to go if you want to see some of the most amazing night skies, unspoiled by light pollution. There are guest houses aplenty for visitors, who would do well to spend a few days exploring this gem. Take your warm clothes though – it may be in a very dry area, but Sutherland is often noted on the weather report as the coldest place in South Africa during winter. Gamkaskloof … to hell and back Marked by a lone signpost 15km from Prince Albert is the road to Gamkaskloof, best braved by owners of 4x4 vehicles who are comfortable to travel at 25km per hour. Access to this long and fertile valley is not for the fainthearted, with treacherous mountain pass roads clinging to the hillsides. However, the remarkable scenery and unspoilt wildlife are the things of which pilgrimages are made, with Cape Nature Conservation managing bookings for camping and accommodation along the banks of the Gamka River. Steeped in Anglo-Boer War history, the valley was originally discovered by trekboers who settled there – and then left, with just one of the original families – the Jouberts – remaining to tell tales of years gone by. responsible traveller 45


Kaapsehoop… not in the Cape

Head for Hogsback

At an altitude of more than 1700m above sea level, Kaapsehoop in Mpumalanga is a quaint little mountain village that his home to wild horses, blue swallows, eagles, hawks, buck, baboons and other small animals too. Enjoying a cooler climate, Kaapsehoop is free from malaria (unlike many other towns in Mpumalanga), and boasts several restaurants and craft stores. You could sleep in The Royal Coach, a train carriage used by Queen Elizabeth II on her visit to South Africa in 1947, or you could spend a night in one of the many charming guesthouses in the village. The surrounding landscape offers contrasts between forest plantations and rocky outcrops, and the village is a welcome stopover en route to the Kruger National Park.

Hogsback is located at the western end of the forested Amatola Mountains in the Eastern Cape, and is home to numerous artists, potters, painters and poets. With its lower reaches often blanketed in snow in winter, the village offers great locations for walking, mountain biking, bird watching, mountain climbing and trout fishing. The village is also home to a remarkable collection of manicured gardens, with enthusiasts from around the country travelling to view the achievements of local horticulturists. Named for the three mountain peaks that look much like the wild hogs in the nearby forest, the area is also home to a wealth of bird life.

Tootle along to Tonteldoos Just down the drag from popular Dullstroom in Mpumalanga, you’ll find Tonteldoos, a small hamlet that is home to the annual Tonteldoos Country Festival, held over the Easter Weekend. The festival celebrates all things peachy, from the fruit to peach mampoer, as well as a celebration of donkey carts and their riders. The village is home to several guesthouses that offer a year-round quiet getaway, as well as the Pendle Hill Country estate, which makes its own organic cheeses using milk from its own herd of Jersey cows, who are milked to the strains of classical music. Cycling fans should look out for the annual Cullinan to Tonteloos off-road experience…

Beautiful Bethulie Bethulie is just about spot on in the middle of South Africa, but it is also in the middle of three game reserves: the Tussen-die-Riviere Game Reserve (between the Caledon and Orange Rivers), the Oviston Nature Reserve and the Gariep Eco Reserve. Located in the Free State close to the Gariep Dam, Bethulie was originally a mission station set up by the London Missionary Society to convert the local San Bushmen, and the original mission station still stands. It’s gone through many name changes over the years, having been known as Groot Moordenaars Poort, Caledon, Verheulpolis, Heidelberg and now Bethulie! Apart from game viewing, visitors can enjoy hiking, fishing, hunting, boating and sundowners on the Hennie Steyn Bridge, the longest railroad bridge in South Africa.

Images - www.wikimedia.org

Lord Milner Hotel at Matjiesfontein

Albert’s Mill - the old watermill built in 1850 in Prince Albert

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Perfect Prince Albert

Mad about Matjiesfontein

Home to a wealth of artists and craftspeople, Prince Albert in the Karoo is fast becoming a food, culture and wine destination. More than 250 years old, the town is also home to several ghosts, with visitors able to take a guided ghost walk through the town to see who they can see! Well known for its fresh and dried fruit – particularly apricots and figs – Prince Albert is also at the heart of South Africa’s mohair region.

If you think that a national monument has to be an inanimate object, think again. The entire town of Matjiesfontein in the Western Cape is a national monument. Originally established as a refreshment station for passing trains, Matjiesfontein is a time capsule of Victoriana, with the Lord Milner Hotel offering old world charm, elegant décor and a few ghost stories too! There are numerous fine restaurants and museums in this oasis in the heart of the Karoo, as well as highlights like the Traveller’s Chapel, the Flourmill and the British Army Remount Camp.

The town has its own unique architecture, and still uses a canal system of water supply, which sees people with water rights in the town enjoying specific days and times when they can direct water to their home. Look out for the cinema (a repurposed art-deco car dealership), the brightly painted houses, and the handpainted dustbins (all 107 of them) that offer great advice to tourists. Dear Darling Pieter-Dirk Uys’s Evita se Perron may have put Darling onto the map, but this pretty town within easy reach of Cape Town has firmly established itself as one of the most beautiful places in the country (if not the world) to visit. Boasting more than 1,200 species of flowering plants showcased during the annual Darling Wildflower Show over the third weekend in September, Darling is also known for its salt and dairy produce, and is making its name as a wine-making region too. Recently, Darling Tourism announced a bird route on which bird lovers can view some remarkable displays of the local wildlife.

Darling Station name board

Full steam ahead at Sandstone The annual Stars of Sandstone Steam Heritage Festival takes place near Ficksburg in the Free State each April, celebrating steam driven vehicles and machines that have been restored to pristine condition. More than 15 years old, the festival attracts team enthusiasts from all over the world, with Sandstone Estate’s 26km narrow gauge railway forming the backbone of the event.

‘Part of being a responsible traveller is supporting local communities, and that often means heading off the mainstream...’

The Mining Commisioner’s House in Kaapsehoop in Mpumalanga

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Check out these tips for a stress-free and effortless journey... Tip #1: Pre-travel Preparations .

Tip #3: Stay Energized

1. Although over-packing sets you back, so does forgetting things – make a list of all essentials you’ll need.

1. Eat small and balanced meals containing vegetables and enough fibre – unhealthy foods can leave you feeling uncomfortable and restless.

2. Make copies of your passport, ID, driver’s license, travel insurance and a detailed itinerary. Print extras and leave with a friend for emergencies.

2. Stay hydrated to keep feeling rejuvenated. Avoid alcohol, as it will dehydrate you. 3. Pack noisecancelling earphones or earplugs, a neck cushion and a jersey with a large enough hood to block out light. Infused teas can also help you sleep.

3. Check-in online when you can, this will save you time and hassle. 4. Review airport security measures to get clarity about the rules. Tip #2: Pack Smart 1. Ensure that your carry-on bags can fit in the overheads. 2. Use a light and durable suitcase that does not exceed weight restrictions or break. 3. To save time at baggage claims, make your luggage easily identifiable by marking it with a unique ribbon. 4. Always ensure suitcases have locks and tags stating your personal information. (‘Travel Trips’ courtesy of RED ELECTRIC)

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Tip #4: Get Digital 1. For convenience, download an app that stores your boarding passes and other information electronically. 2. Turn on your device’s flight mode and mute, lower brightness and turn off vibrate to further extend your battery life. 3. Remember to switch off push notifications and to switch on your “out of office” replies. 4. To ensure your smart devices are always charged, carry a powerbank in your hand luggage or carry-on bag. Like Red-E’s RC60, which can charge most smart phones up to three times without recharging.


5 Money Tips for International Travel Whether summer or winter is your favourite time of the year to travel, make sure you keep in mind something that is often overlooked: how to protect yourself from being a victim of fraud or theft when travelling abroad. Remember, going cashless is by far the safest way to travel. Wherever you’re going and whatever you do, don’t forget these five pointers to protect yourself:

‘Although over-packing sets you back, so does forgetting things - make a list of all essentials you’ll need...’

Check that your Chip-and-PIN is valid: EMV-enabled Chip and PIN payment cards help prevent fraud and are the most convenient for cashless travels. Have you checked yours is valid and isn’t going to expire while travelling? Remember to never let your debit or credit card out of your sight and make sure transactions are done in front of you.

Sharing is caring: sure, you’ve told your Facebook friends where you’re going, but have you told your bank? Remember to alert them to the fact that you will be travelling so they don’t think your transactions are fraudulent.

Pack your ‘payment passport’: a Prepaid MasterCard, or similar, payment card is a lot safer than travelling with cash. Packing your Multi-currency Cash Passport gives you flexibility when paying with U.S. Dollars, Pound Sterling, Australian Dollars or Euros.

Ask for help: although travelling with as little cash as possible makes sense, you may need to take a small amount of cash in the local currency for tipping for example. When you land, ask an official at the airport where a safe ATM is located, and make use of the ATM Locator with your smartphone.

Be smart about currency conversion fees: some merchants and hotels may ask you if you’d like to be charged in either your home or local currency. You will likely save if you choose local currency as you may not incur a foreign transaction fee or a conversion rate fee. (‘Money Tips’ courtesy of MASTERCARD) responsible traveller 49


Top tips for managing your money when travelling Travelling enriches our lives in many ways. We are exposed to different cultures, new experiences, breath-taking sights, historic landmarks, and cuisine that is wonderfully foreign to our palates. In fact, the only limiting thing about travelling is the cost. However, we should definitely not let the cost hold us back as while it may sound clichéd, travelling is an experience that leaves us (figuratively!) richer, through broadening our understanding of the world around us…not to mention creating unforgettable memories. The good news is that with a little planning and careful budgeting, you are well on your way. Barrable provides his top money tips to stretch your savings even further. Calculate… Calculate exactly how much money you will need for your trip, taking into account flights, accommodation, meals, flights, shopping and unexpected expenses. Then work out a conservative yet flexible daily budget – and make sure you stick to it. If you spend more than you planned on one day of your trip, simply spend less the next. “This way you won’t be caught at the end of your holiday with no money,” says Ian Barrable, Sales Director of American Express. Protect… “Too many tourists fall victim to theft, or lose their wallets while adventuring. A currency card

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loaded with your travel savings is a good idea, as it prevents someone else from using your funds yet allows you easy access to your money.” Look for a card that is able to be used in multiple destinations, and that offers a free replacement and emergency access to funds is available if it is misplaced, ensuring that you are never stuck without money far away from home. Avoid… Avoid converting currency at places notorious for their high fees and exchange rates, such as airports and hotels. It all adds up, so make sure you shop around beforehand for the best rates. Extend… Beware of currency conversion fees if you are travelling to multiple destinations, as these can eat away at your funds. “Currency card providers generally charge between 3% - 6% when converting currencies between destinations, so make sure you have taken this into account,” says Barrable. And look out for special rates and deals. And remember… “While it is important to be sensible with your money and avoid debt, you will always be able to make more money – but a trip is a once-in-alifetime experience. Plan your finances wisely, and you will realise that travelling is the best investment you can make.” c (‘Money Tips’ courtesy of AMERICAN EXPRESS)



biodiversity & geology ...the importance of seeing words & pics - Rowan Buhrmann

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Walking along a dry river bed near Hobas responsible traveller 53


W

hen people start talking about biodiversity and the numbers of endemic fauna and flora, the obvious usually comes to mind, like the Amazon rainforest, or maybe something a bit closer to home, like South Africa’s very own Fynbos. But what very few realise is that there is a small gem of a conservation area located in the north-western corner of South Africa and into neighbouring Namibia.

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Thanks to an international treaty between Namibia (Ai-Ais Hot Springs Game Park) and South Africa (/Ai/Ais-Richtersveld National Park), signed on the 1 August 2003, the two once separated parks became one, forming the current /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. The /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld falls within the Succulent Karoo biodiversity hotspot, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and extremely diverse in its flora! There are a surprising 4849 species of succulent plants, with 40% only being found within this biome. Of that, around 2700 species are found solely within the park, with 600 occurring nowhere else.


The Fish River Canyon

‘The sheer scale of the Fish River Canyon is hard to comprehend when viewing it from the lookout point at ‘Hells Bend’ near the rest-camp at Hobas...’

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Hiking up to the canyon to the viewpoint at /Ai/Ais

Viewing platform overlooking the Fish River Canyon

I was lucky enough to experience this incredible area first-hand with the recent DESERT KNIGHTS MOUNTAIN BIKE TOUR which took taking place in and around the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. With each day of the tour, we cycled through this incredible landscape, experiencing what this park is truly about. The vastness of this area combined with the amazing geology and unbelievable plant species, makes the Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park a place like no other. You get the feeling that you have been transported back in time as you meander your way from camp to camp every evening. 56 responsible traveller

‘It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see...’ HENRY DAVID THOREAU


Riparian bush along the Orange River

A stone plant of the Lithops spp.

Toktokkie beetle

Gemsbok responsible traveller 57


The first thing you pick up on as your eyes get accustomed to this foreign landscape is the unique geological formations. This strange geology has been created by the harsh conditions of this arid desert area for millions of years, forming what we see today. The most notable geological formation must be the Fish River Canyon, the second largest canyon in the world, second only to that of the Grand Canyon in the USA. Unlike the Grand Canyon, this canyon wasn’t originally carved out by the flow of the Fish River.

plant that has adapted to survive in some of the harshest conditions. Temperatures have been recorded to reach up to 53 degrees Celsius in summer, and combined with an environment that gets very little rainfall, the fact that there is even plant life here is incredible. Nights however a cool, bringing with them a heavy dew, this moisture making survival possible. One of the most iconic of plants found within the park must be the Halfmens, or if you really want to impress, Pachypodium namaquanum. The name stems from its resemblance to that of a human form, its clumps of thick crinkled leaves creating what looks like a head of hair. These trees are usually 1.5 to 2.5 m tall, but can sometimes reach a staggering 4 m. The indigenous Nama people revere these trees as they are considered the embodiment of their ancestors, hence the name Halfmens (half man, half plant).

‘Its English name comes from the practice of hollowing out the tubular branches to be used by the local people as quivers for their arrows...’

It was the effect of a southward moving glacier that started the process of carving out this magnificent feature. It was only about 50 million years ago that the Fish River started its process of carving out the valley floor to form what we see today, a canyon running 161km long, with places up to 27km wide, and almost 550m deep. The sheer scale of the Fish River Canyon is hard to comprehend when viewing it from the lookout point at ‘Hells Bend’ near the rest-camp at Hobas.

One of the best ways to fully grasp the size of this impressive natural beauty is to do the 86km hike along the meandering water course, providing the opportunity to view some of the 260 million year old exposed rocks found deep within the canyon. “It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see.” This quote by Henry David Thoreau fits perfectly with the arid vastness of this park. Unlike the geology, the vegetation in the /Ai/AisRichtersveld is not all visible when sitting in your car, looking out of the window. Besides the iconic quiver tree and half-mens, most of the unique and endemic plant species need to be seen up close. So to do this park justice, I thoroughly suggest getting out of your car (or off your bike) and taking a short walk into this ‘barren’ land. Once you get up close and personal with the ground beneath your feet, you will realise that there is a lot more out there than meets the eye. Just because it may look like a stone doesn’t mean it is. There are an estimated 50 different species of Lithops, not suprisingly known as stone plants, found within the park. They are an amazing little 58 responsible traveller

Another spectacular plant of the region is the quiver tree (Aloe dichotoma). Its English common name comes from the practice of hollowing out the tubular branches to be used by the local people as quivers for their arrows. There are so many specially adapted plants to this desert area, even some that coat themselves in a layer of sand to prevent sand from actually damaging their succulent outer layers. Should you be in the region after good winter rains you may see the desert burst forth in colour as the succulents like mesembryanthemums and lampranthus to annual gazanias and osteospermums produce a spectacular display. The park also boasts a large variety of mammals including some interesting predators, such as the leopard, caracal, brown hyena and the more common black-backed jackal. Other interesting species to look out for are: Hartmann’s mountain zebra, grey rhebok, kudu, gemsbok, steenbok, duiker and the more common klipspringer. In total, there are 56 species of mammals that you are able to see, with six of these being endemic to the southern African sub-region. The bird life within the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park is quite amazing too. There are 194 species found throughout the park, with 23 endemic to the southern Africa. As


Quiver tree responsible traveller 59


these birds have adapted to surviving in this harsh environment, they can be found nearly throughout the park, however most will be located congregating around a source of water, specifically around the edges of the Orange River. The Orange River forms part of the border between South Africa and Namibia, and is of great conservation importance as it has a large diversity of plants and animals along its river banks. The 350 million year old lower Orange gorge is bursting with prominent riparian bush and overflows with history, folklore and grandeur. If you are an avid birder, I would suggest taking the time to either canoe down this magnificent river or walk along the water’s edge. Not only will you encounter numerous birds, you are likely to spot some of

Image - wikimedia

Halfmens

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the parks larger mammals as well as some of their smaller, more timid ones. It doesn’t matter if your interests lie in biodiversity or geology, the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park has something to offer you. With its large desert spaces and deep canyons, and its numerous succulent plants and tall ‘halfmens’, this park is one-of-a-kind. Nowhere else in the world will you find such beauty like that seen here. There is just something so magical about this place, like an unexplored land that is asking to be mapped. Do yourself a favour, take a trip back in time, go visit the Richterveld… • READ ABOUT MY MTB EXPERIENCE HERE...

www.desertknights-mtb.com www.nwr.com.na


‘It doesn’t matter if your interests lie in biodiversity or geology, the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park has something to offer you... with its large desert spaces and deep canyons, and its numerous succulent plants and tall ‘halfmens’ - this park is one of a kind’

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What’s news... World Responsible Tourism Awards 2015... the Winners The World Responsible Tourism Awards ceremony was hosted at World Travel Market on World Responsible Tourism Day, 4 November 2015. The Awards were presented by Justin Francis, Managing Director of Responsible Travel who organise and founded the Awards, now in their 12th year.

2015 AWARDS WINNERS: OVERALL WINNER In choosing the Overall Winner, the judges looked for examples which are surprising and inspiring. And this year, they all went for LooLa, an Indonesian island idyll. LooLa Adventure Resort also jointly won the Best for Beach Tourism category. BEST FOR POVERTY REDUCTION Sponsored by Tobago House of Assembly Gold award: Agri Tourism Development Company Pvt Ltd Pandurang Taware is a man who understands the fundamentals of agritourism. Emanating from a small farming community in the Indian state of Maharashtra, this business not only invites guests to their own farm and agritourism business, but also shares its knowledge and understanding of rural tourism with 750 farmers around the state. Because, in India, and responsible tourism, we believe that sharing is caring. Silver awards: Grootbos Private Nature Reserve OneSeed Expeditions Uakari Floating Lodge BEST ANIMAL WELFARE INITIATIVE Supported by Born Free Foundation Gold award: Campaign Against Canned Hunting We have all seen the images - rich tourists posing for photographs after shooting a lion or other more endangered species. Shared worldwide on

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social media, most of us look on in disbelief that such practices, known as canned hunting, are still allowed to happen. Canned hunting refers specifically to the hunting of animals which have been enclosed in a confined, privately owned area. Albeit often a very large area so that they don’t feel enclosed. Legal in South Africa, it attracts hunters from all over the world, who are prepared to pay vast amounts of money to shoot lions, send home their body parts and have them stuffed, for prowess. This South African based charity, however, engages with tour operators, airlines and governments to make sure that this ‘can’ becomes a ‘can’t’ forever. Gold award: Hetta Huskies Mushing, dog sledding or husky journeys into snowy wilderness. Whatever you call them, few can resist the imagery of these blue eyed beauties, galloping through the snow, caring for and careering their cargo from one beauteous, blanketed landscape to another. This tourism adventure is growing rapidly in popularity. However, like so many tourism practices that involve animals there are good and bad ways of doing it. And because huskies are seen as indestructible, hardy, able to cope with any conditions, welfare issues are often overlooked. Hetta Huskies, however, based in Finnish Lapland, leads the way in mushing magnificence. Silver awards: Lotus Travel The Donkey Sanctuary BEST INNOVATION FOR CARBON REDUCTION Sponsored by Visit Gozo Gold award: TUI UK and Ireland TUI UK & Ireland operates in 180 destinations worldwide and employs around 77,000 people. As well as having an impressive commitment to sustainability, this award focuses on the innovative work they have undertaken to reduce


What’s news... carbon emissions within their retail outlets and offices for all of their brands, which include Thomson and First Choice, with a total of over 600 shops. Blue skies thinking from a company that likes to promise blue skies to all its travellers.

Loola Adventure Resort

Silver awards: Airport Authority, Hong Kong North Sailing BEST FOR BEACH TOURISM Sponsored by Jersey Tourism Gold award: Loola Adventure Resort This Indonesian island idyll is far from going ‘loola’. It is more switched on to sustainability, ecotourism and social responsibility than many of the top brand businesses claiming to be green leaders. Leaders who are not only committed to employing local staff, but supporting them to become entrepreneurs in their own right. And yet it hides its achievements under a tropical bushel. Not for long though, as it is recognised internationally for its capacity to have responsible adventures by the beach, while educating the next generation at the same time.

Soneva Fushi, Maldives

Gold award: Soneva Fushi, Maldives When nearly seventy people from the tiny island communities around Soneva Fushi’s Kunfunadhoo island resort are taught to swim, it has a perfect ripple effect. Because teaching local people to swim is just a tiny part of Soneva Fushi’s, in the Maldives, vision. Helping people, be they hosts or guests, understand the value of their natural heritage, rather than fearing it, is a fundamental part of Soneva’s raison d’etre. Silver awards: & Beyond Turtle Bay Beach Club

Atlas Kasbah Ecolodge

BEST HOTEL FOR LOCAL SOURCING Sponsored by Colorado Tourism Office Gold award: Atlas Kasbah Ecolodge This eco Kasbah was built from scratch in 2009 in the Argan Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO site to protect the endemic argan tree. But this Kasbah was built with a view to protecting and proudsharing the Berber heritage, that of the owner, Hassan Aboutayeb. Pride, protection and pristine beauty oozes from every hand crafted corner of this 11 bedroom Kasbah, just twenty minutes from Agadir in the High Atlas Mountains. Silver awards: Matava, Fiji Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa responsible traveller 63


What’s news... BEST CULTURAL HERITAGE ATTRACTION Sponsored by Wightlink Gold award: Loop Head Peninsula Heritage Trail Many of Ireland’s rugged landscapes which jut out into the wilds of the Atlantic are already well trodden on the tourist trail, such as The Dingle Peninsula or the Cliffs of Moher. But for years few people knew about one of its most stunning peninsulas: Loop Head in County Clare. However, that all changed after local community-led Loop Head Tourism Network created the Loop Head Heritage Trail in 2014. Making this a fine example of local people taking ownership of their heritage and, in so doing, setting a new, shiny emerald onto Ireland’s tourism map. Silver awards: Bushmans Kloof Cnoc Suain BEST FOR ENGAGING PEOPLE & CULTURE Sponsored by Audley Travel Gold award: Urban Adventures City tourism often focuses on architecture or ‘attractions’. But this holiday company has put the word ‘civil’ back into city holidays. Because, going back to the Latin meaning of the word, we must never forget that cities are all about their citizens. And connecting tourists with citizens is what Urban Adventures is all about, with a wide variety of tours on offer - from joining Istanbul families for a Ramadam iftar feast as they break the long day’s fast in the park, to cycling along the banks of Kerala’s backwaters, stopping in homes for lunch and refreshments.

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Silver awards: Connemara Wild Escapes Felin Talgarth Mill BEST ACCOMMODATION FOR DISABILITY ACCESS Sponsored by Enable Holidays. Gold award: Endeavour Safaris It is rare to see a conventional tourism business get its head around what disability access really means, but when a safari company does it, you really have to take your khaki hat off. And most importantly, Endeavour Safaris understands inclusivity in tourism. Because they are not just about providing safari camps for people with disabilities. They are just about providing nop notch safari camps. For everyone. Gold award: Scandic Hotels Not only are Scandic Hotels about location, location, location, but they are also about information, information, information. The bugbear of most people with access issues, especially in mainstream tourism, is that there is NO information to help them on websites. Nordic Hotel chain Scandic Hotels has proved that this is actually a no brainer, leading the way in mass tourism becoming accessible tourism. Silver award: RuralSuite Hotel Apartamentos**** BEST DESTINATION FOR RESPONSIBLE TOURISM Sponsored by Visit Norway Gold award: Gansbaai The Gansbaai is like an oyster that the local


What’s news... fishermen have opened only to discover a pearl inside - but that they then go on to share with all the world. Because Gansbaai, a town in the Overberg region, Western Cape, South Africa has transformed itself from fishing village to one of South Africa’s most exciting, and community led adventure hubs, a process that has been led by the Gansbaai Tourism Association. The Gansbaai Tourism Association is one of South Africa’s most proactive and passionate clusters of tourism businesses, from fishermen to fynbos conservationists. Because at Responsible Travel we know that responsible destinations don’t just happen. People make them happen. Silver awards: Aruba Cyprus BEST FOR WILDLIFE CONSERVATION Sponsored by Florida Keys & Key West Tourism Development Council Gold award: Honko Mangrove Conservation & Education The Ambondrolava mangrove complex in SW Madagascar is not only one of the country’s most stunning habitats, home to many endemic bird species, but also home to five mangrove communities. Communities that have depended on the mangroves for wood, fish and other animals for centuries. But as populations rise, the mangroves start to disappear, and so this charity works closely with these communities to help sustain an eco-equilibrium for everyone.

Silver awards: Coral Cay Conservation North Island Seychelles Tiger Trails Jungle Lodge BEST SEA OR RIVER CRUISE Gold award: Ullswater Steamers When you want to get your head around sustainability or ethical practices, it is sometimes best to talk to people who have been around for a long time. Because they often have a greater understanding of a need to protect the environment. It was natural to be natural just a few decades ago. And Ullswater Steamers is one of those oldies, a business that dates as far back as 1859, the current owners taking it over in the early 1950’s leading cruises on board traditional, heritage vessels in the Lake District’s Ullswater Valley. BEST RESPONSIBLE TOURISM BLOG Sponsored by Fair Trade Tourism Gold award: Uncornered Market Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott, the husband and wife team who founded this blog in 2007 aim, through their travel writing, to create a ‘chain of stewardship’ around the world, with their stories and experiences helping to inform readers about ways in which to travel responsibly, and with respect. And with 70,000 unique visitors per month to their site, which contains a wide array of mindful musing, we say indeed... respect. Silver award: Travel for Wildlife

Gansbaai

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What’s news... PEOPLE’S CHOICE IN RESPONSIBLE TOURISM Sponsored by Catalan Tourist Board, and in association with National Geographic Traveller (UK) Magazine Winner: World Animal Protection As well as changing its name from the World Society for the Protection of Animals to World Animal Protection, this eminent UK based charity has also upgraded its remit of late. Having spent the last 50 years campaigning and, in many cases, winning, to protect both wild and domestic animals worldwide from mass culling, the horrors of so called entertainment such as bear baiting, or the damage caused to marine life from discarded fishing gear, it is now hitting the tourism industry directly. Through its Compassionate Travel campaign it is reaching out to international bodies to put a stop to the unnecessary use of wild animals in tourism. •

‘The principles of responsible tourism can apply to any business, mainstream or niche – it’s what makes the awards so exciting...’ JUSTIN FRANCIS

www.responsibletravel.com World Animal Protection

Urban Adventures

Uncornered Market

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What’s news... Fair Trade Tourism - and what it means... The Vineyard Hotel in Newlands, along with sister hotels Oude Werf and Townhouse Hotel have all been awarded Fair Trade Tourism certification in the past year and are proud to have their values and philosophies acknowledged by this worthy organisation. But what does it actually mean to be Fair Trade certified and how does it affect the operations of the hotels and the guests who stay there?

viable option,” says van Zyl. “Because of this we are proud to be able to provide them with Fair Trade products, as well as complete peace of mind in that regard.” How do the Vineyard, Oude Werf and Townhouse Hotel ‘live the spirit’ of Fair trade on a daily basis? •

They employ over 600 people from 16 nations and over the past decade they have provided on-the-job training to 100’s of new industry interns.

They recycle most of their waste (95% at the Vineyard alone). They also donate bread to soup kitchens and repurpose usable towels and linens.

Two of the hotels generate their own solar/ thermal power and all rooms are fitted with energy/water-saving devices.

They source goods and services almost entirely from local suppliers and new entrepreneurs in the Western Cape.

In order to qualify for FTT Certification, a series of rigorous onsite audits were carried out at each of the hotels to ensure compliance with key FTT Certification criteria. These audits covered business practices, the provision of fair wages, working conditions, distribution of benefits and purchasing and procurement practices. The audits also evaluated commitment to the respect of human rights, culture and heritage, and the environment.

The Kids of the Cape Fund, assisted by guests has helped almost 50 community upliftment projects over the past five years.

They are associates of ‘green’ initiatives like the Long Table Food Project, the SA Sustainable Seafood Initiative, Friends of the Liesbeek, Greenpop and the Event Greening Forum. The Vineyard’s The Square was the first SA Sustainable Seafood Initiative restaurant.

“The independent auditor conducted various site inspections and meetings with the health and safety committees and numerous workers, discussing everything from contracts and pay slips to the policy around tipping,” says Group Environmental Manager and Horticulturist Chris van Zyl. “Through this process we have learned that FTT is as much about taking care of our environment, as it is taking care of our team. The hotels are proud to have formalised their commitment to fair and responsible tourism.”

Their hotel properties include two national heritage sites, among them South Africa’s oldest hotel, which welcomed its first guests in 1802.

Staff volunteer for beach and river clean-ups, community greening, removal of invasive plants and preserving indigenous flora at two Cape nature reserves. •

Fair Trade Tourism is a leading non-profit organisation that recognises and promotes responsible, sustainable tourism enterprises in Southern Africa. Its purpose is to create opportunities for business owners and employees of tourism businesses in developing countries to enter and trade in markets governed by fair practice and transparency. Added to this, it provides tourists with the opportunity to travel responsibly and make a difference in the lives of the communities to which they travel, through responsible purchasing of Fair Trade Tourism products.

www.fairtrade.travel

Responsible hoteling makes sense to the group because they recognise they are part of a rich tourism destination and helping to preserve it, as well as its people, communities and environments does not only make common business sense, but it’s just the right thing to do. “Guests are becoming more aware and many consider ‘tourism with a conscience’ as the only responsible traveller 67


Awarded

World’s Best City Hotel World Responsible Tourism Awards l World Travel Market 2014

In the unlikely location of Cape Town’s Airport Industria, Africa’s Greenest Hotel is waiting to be discovered by you. Enjoy the comfort of our 4 star hotel with 5 star services & 3 star prices. Stay at Hotel Verde, the first Hotel in Africa to offer carbon neutral accommodation & conferencing to guests.

An experience like no other By staying one night at Hotel Verde you will personally Offset 27.4 kg of carbon

Save 76 kWh of electrcity

Save 492 liters of water*

divert 2.1 kg waste from landfill

*saving accounts for guest water use across the entire hotel

Carbon Neutral Accommodation & Conferencing l 145 Rooms & 7 Conference Venues l 400m from Cape Town Airport Complimentary Airport Shuttle & Shuttle to City Centre l Complimentary Wi-Fi l Urban Beehives & Urban Farming Restored Wetland l Restaurant with 24hr Room Service l Breakfast from 4h30am l Contemporary Bar 24hr Deli l Indoor & Outdoor Gym l Africa’s First Power Generating Gym Equipment l Jogging Trail, Eco Pool & Terrace

reservations@hotelverde.com l +27 (0) 21 380 5500 l www.hotelverde.com 15 MICHIGAN STREET, CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, SOUTH AFRICA


What’s news... Montagu Country Hotel becomes Fair Trade Tourism certified The Western Cape’s renowned Montagu Country Hotel is now Fair Trade Tourism certified. Located in Montagu, in the heart of the picturesque Robertson Wine Route on the famed Route 62, it is the only original Art Deco hotel in South Africa and is a perfect halfway stop between Cape Town and the Garden Route.

“Montagu Country Hotel also supports various schools, charities and churches in the area and ensures that our procurement is kept local, as far as possible, especially where meat and fresh produce is concerned. And most of our staff come from Montagu and the various villages and communities which surround it,” he adds.

Originally built in 1875 but destroyed by fire, the hotel was rebuilt in 1922 at the height of the Art Deco movement. It offers guests the chance to turn back time and enjoy wine tasting tours in chauffeur-driven vintage, classic American cars - the hotel has a 1956 Cadillac Sedan de Ville, a 1956 De Soto and a Fireflight Sportsman!

“We have a strong vision for our hotel here in rural Montagu, and it lined up with the Fair Trade principles. The obvious next step for us was to get the certification done, and associate ourselves with likeminded properties, operators and suppliers. We look forward to flying the Fair Trade Tourism flag!” says Basson.

Montagu Country Hotel is also a great wellness destination with its own health centre offering a range of massages and treatments designed to restore body and soul. Montagu’s healing mineral water plays a vital role in this, being used in the hotel’s mineral baths, having been pumped from 120m below ground.

Fair Trade Tourism is a non-government organisation operating the world’s first and currently only Fair Trade certification programme for the tourism industry. The certification programme is based on adherence to specific criteria including fair wages and working conditions, fair distribution of benefits, ethical business practice and respect for human rights, culture and the environment.

The hotel has been taking its responsibility to people and planet seriously for some time, investing in energy saving initiatives like solar, low-energy lighting, compost-making with biodegradable waste and water-saving initiatives. “We are very active in our local community, providing soup for the village soup kitchen, working closely with our hospice and local Rotary branch which both use the hotel for meetings,” says the hotel’s general manager, PJ Basson.

“Fair Trade Tourism is delighted to welcome Montagu Country Hotel to its growing collection of certified businesses,” says the organisation’s managing director, Nivashnee Naidoo. “The hotel affords tourists travelling in this beautiful region of the Western Cape the opportunity to travel responsibly and make a difference in the lives of the communities it supports and is involved with, helping to make Fair Trade Tourism the mark of credibility in the sustainable, responsible tourism arena.” Fair Trade Tourism has expanded its steadily growing portfolio of certified and approved tourism products and operators beyond the borders of the Rainbow Nation into Madagascar and Mozambique. In addition, mutual recognition agreements have been signed with both the Seychelles and Tanzania, allowing products in those countries to be marketed under the Fair Trade Holiday banner. The organisation encourages and monitors fair and responsible practices in tourism establishments and activities. Its purpose is to create opportunities for business owners and employees of tourism businesses in developing countries to enter and trade in markets governed by fair practice and transparency. •

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