Responsible Traveller magazine - Winter 2013

VOLUME 10 – Winter 2013

Explore Africa’s magnificent wildlife, action-packed adventure & fascinating culture

INSIDE

Things to do in KwaZulu-Natal • Cape Town & the Responsible Tourism Pilot Project For the love of our Rhino • 101 things to see on Safari • Zalala Beach Lodge

www.responsibletraveller.co.za The official magazine of the Heritage Environmental Management Company

Comment Welcome to the WINTER 2013 edition of Responsible Traveller…

What an awesome continent Africa is!

I love Africa and the fact that I can call myself an African even though I am of European descent. My Dad, who was born in Holland and held a Dutch passport, met and married my Mom and subsequently after having lived here for a number of years gave up his Dutch citizenship in preference for a South Africa one. He always said ‘Africa is the easiest place to come to, but the hardest place to leave’. And that, wonderful visitors to this country is why you just HAVE to come back, time and time again!! It’s not just the incredible wildlife, awe-inspiring landscapes, exhilirating adventures and mouth-watering cuisine – be it street food or haute-cuisine, it’s also the wonderful people you meet along the way.

Once again I have had the privilege of compiling a selection of things to see and do in Africa. Some I have visited, others not, but one thing I have realised, from a responsible tourism point of view, is that not all establishments and activities will tick all the boxes – disappointing I know, but all the more reason as the ‘traveller’ to travel with care, and be mindful of the impact that you’re making on a destination. We also look at the issue of rhino poaching, which is a scourge that is having a horendous impact on many of Africa’s wildlife areas, but instead of just looking at the negative (of which we don’t need to be reminded), we celebrate some of the success stories that conservationists are achieving.

Be the kind of traveller who takes the time to connect with all aspects of the destination – you’ll be amazed at how much more meaningful your visit will be, so much so that you will be planning your return visit before you’ve even left. As I said, easy to visit, but SO very hard to leave!

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

tessa

Magazine Information VOLUME 11 - Winter 2013 Managing Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Printers Fishwicks Durban Tel: +27 31 268 7300 Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller, the print edition, is published annually in May & November Printed on Sappi Triple Green environmentally friendly paper

Cover Image: Lion at Tswalu Kalahari Pic courtesy of FTT & Tswalu Kalahari Unless specifically indicated, the products or services featured in this magazine are not necessarily endorsed or certified as responsible by the Heritage Environmental Management Company.

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE HERITAGE ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT COMPANY

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

responsible traveller 03

pg 30

Contents Awareness: Being a Responsible Traveller Talking Responsible Tourism on the KZN South Coast Exciting Changes Ahead for Fair Trade Tourism Imvelo Awards for Responsible Tourism Cape Town & the Responsible Tourism Pilot Project Anyone can make a difference

pg 37

06 16 28 42 56 71

Destinations: Destination SA Things to do in KwaZulu-Natal 08 Durban’s finest... 25 Destination Africa Mozambique Zalala Beach Lodge, where community matters 37 Destination World: Asia Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Awards 76 Bustling Bangkok 78

pg 52

Places to Stay: Along the Riverside 61 A Hotel with Heart 66 Wildlife & Safari: 101 things to see on Safari Sappi WWF On the Hunt Rhino facts For the love of our Rhino Safari Awards

30 43 46 50 52 64

Adventures & Activities: Tiger Fishing on Jozini 68 pg 68

News: Heritage Member News Environmental News Local News Social Responsibility News

18 23 58 74

Regulars: Comment 03 Heritage Listing 89

www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

Ask to see your tour responsible travel policy.

operator's

Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

06 responsible traveller

Don't discard litter when visiting out-ofthe-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtourismsa.org.za www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

KwaZulu-Natal is all about cultural diversity and multi-cultural traditions, sophistication and style, an enticing destination that invites exploration – an alluring and fascinating place, with spectacular mountain peaks, expansive golden beaches, exciting wildlife experiences, legendary Zulu kings and reminders of its Colonial past. Durban, gateway to the province, is a sophisticated cosmopolitan city, a fusion of East, West and African culture, which is reflected in the city’s architectural styles, artistic flair and culinary tastes and flavours.

pic - Tourism Durban

Things

to do in KwaZulu-Natal...

Durban GO SURFING – Durban offers world-class surfing waves right on its doorstep and classic beach break surf conditions can be found along the entire Durban beachfront.

EXPERIENCE A SHARK DISSECTION – at the KZN Sharks Board in Umhlanga. There is a display hall with life-size replicas of sharks, fish and rays, and a presentation on the work they do and the importance of sharks in the marine ecosystem.

other markets which sell everything from farm-fresh produce to religious goods and cooked animal heads.

GO ON A TOWNSHIP TOUR – experience the vibrancy of the townships where you can meet local residents, visit a crèche and play soccer with the kids. Then enjoy a visit to a shebeen for a local beer and some shisanyama (barbequed meat).

ENJOY A STROLL THROUGH THE BOTANIC GARDENS – the Botanic Gardens, founded in 1849, is one of Africa's oldest botanic gardens.

VISIT GHANDI’S HOME – Mahatma Gandhi developed his philosophy of passive resistance at the Phoenix Settlement and his home has been turned into a monument dedicated to lasting peace and justice.

EXPERIENCE NATURE – the coastal forests, mangrove swamps and river estuaries in and around Durban are rich in animal and bird life, as are the hills and valleys of the Valley of 1000 Hills.

VISIT THE OHLANGE INSTITUTE – founded by John Dube (the first president of the ANC), this is home to the site where Nelson Mandela cast his historic vote in South Africa’s first democratic elections in 1994.

GO CYCLING – enjoy the sunrise on a bike ride along the beach from uShaka to Blue Lagoon, or hit the trail at Giba Gorge or take a bike tour in Inanda to enjoy the views of the dam and get in touch with the local community.

STEP BACK IN TIME AT THE KWAMUHLE MUSEUM – once the office of the notorious Department of Native Affairs, the KwaMuhle Museum provides a vital link with the city’s apartheid past.

EAT A BUNNY CHOW – no visit to Durban is complete without eating a ‘bunny’. Half a loaf of bread, hollowed out, and filled with curry. Cheap, delicious and filling, this is Durban’s most famous dish.

GO SHOPPING IN A MARKET – Durban is a shopper’s paradise, with pavement sellers selling arts, crafts and curios, street markets selling curries and spices, handmade curios and woven goods.

TAKE A TOUR THROUGH THE MARKETS OF WARWICK – this includes the Victoria Street Market, a vibrant Indian Market with colourful stalls, fish market and curio outlets; the ‘Muti Market’, where herbalists sell traditional medicines and many 08 responsible traveller

THE UMHLANGA LIGHTHOUSE – this distinctive twenty-one metre high lighthouse, completed in 1954, is situated on the picturesque Umhlanga promenade. The Lighthouse has never had its own lighthouse keeper - its lights are operated from the nearby Oyster Box Hotel. The lighthouse controls are located in the hotel office where staff monitor the controls, and report to Portnet’s Lighthouse Service.

DO THE ‘BIG RUSH BIG SWING’ – at Moses Mabhida Stadium, the world's only stadium swing and the largest swing of any kind. Jump into the void 106 metres above the pitch and swing out in a huge 220 metre arc under the iconic arch.

ENJOY INDIAN CUISINE – having the largest population of Indians outside of India, this is the place to enjoy a good curry.

Curry Buffet at the Oyster Box Hotel The Curry Buffet in the Ocean Terrace Restaurant, with its gorgeous views across the Indian Ocean, offers an impressive curry selection of at least 11 curries daily, and includes meat, fish and vegetarian options. Using delicate blends of spices and fresh herbs, each curry is a masterpiece in itself. From the delicate flavours of the Singapore Fish Curry, using the freshest fish of the day, to the spicy, hot Lamb Vindaloo and smooth-textured Butter Chicken to vegetarian options such as the Vegetable Korma and Sugar-Bean Curry. The city’s famous Chicken and Prawn Curry and the Oyster Box’s signature Traditional Durban Lamb Curry remain firm favourites. Accompanied by fresh, home-made condiments including lime and vegetable pickle, home-made Chutneys, Raitas, Sambals and freshly baked Naan breads, Papadums and Roti, the Curry Buffet, compels diners to return time and again. Two Tandoori ovens guarantee authentic, freshly prepared Tandoori chicken is available on the Buffet. (read more on pg 25)

Pietermaritzburg & Midlands

www.oysterboxhotel.com

Karkloof Canopy Tours

GO WALKING – Pietermaritzburg’s historical city centre offers a wealth of architecture and history – one of the highlights is the City Hall, built in 1893, reputed to be one of the largest all-brick buildings in the southern hemisphere.

GET SPORTY – Pietermaritzburg is where the annual Dusi Canoe Marathon starts, and is the beginning or ending point of the world-renowned annual Comrades Marathon between Durban and Pietermaritzburg, which attracts about 20 000 participants.

VISIT THE MANDELA MUSEUM AND CAPTURE MONUMENT – this significant site is where the world's most famous antiapartheid activist, Nelson Mandela, was apprehended in 1962 while driving from Durban to Johannesburg.

DO THE MIDLANDS MEANDER ROUTE – this tourist route runs mainly between Howick and Nottingham Road and is a delightful shopping and browsing side-trip, including numerous antique shops, art galleries and arts and crafts studios with the potential of turning every visit into a truly memorable experience.

GO FLY FISHING – the Midlands offers some of the best trout fishing waters in South Africa, with a number of dams, streams and rivers available.

HAVE A SPA TREATMENT – the Midlands offers some of the finest spas South Africa has to offer, providing sophisticated spa seekers with an enviable range of treatments and rituals using the world’s favourite spa products alongside traditional African treatments.

DO ADVENTURE – the Karkloof Canopy Tour offers an exhilarating adventure whizzing through the treetops or go mountain biking through the forests and hills of the region. Or abseil the 107m drop down the Howick Falls.

GO WHITE WATER RAFTING – the magnificent Umkomaas River, said to be second only to the mighty Zambezi.

www.karkloofcanopytour.co.za The Karkloof Canopy Tour® is a unique eco-experience that takes people on a 2 hour adventure through the magnificent Karkloof indigenous forest. The escorted canopy tour involves traversing from one platform to another along a steel cable suspended up to 30m above the forest floor. The tour comprises nine platforms and eight slides that zig-zag down a pristine forested valley. The scenery and birdlife is spectacular and professional guides provide interesting facts about the forest ecology during the tour.

The environmentally friendly platforms are built high up in the forest canopy and all offer different views of the surrounding forest, a magnificent 20m waterfall, clear sparkling forest stream and across the expansive Karkloof valley far below. Spend a couple of minutes relaxing on the platforms while your guides enthusiastically explain the ecology of the forest – pointing out different trees and the magnificent giant ferns way below. The bird life is incredible and includes the opportunity of spotting Emerald Cuckoos, Knysna Turacos, a wide variety of raptors and if you are lucky, the elusive Narina Trogon or endangered Cape Parrots. responsible traveller 09

Zululand LEARN ABOUT TRADITIONAL ZULU MEDICINE – accompany a traditional healer into the nearby forest to collect herbs, bulbs, and bark. Listen as he explains how he harvests and prepares the traditional medicines for use on both human and animal patients – these age-old traditions are still practiced on a daily basis, many of which are the foundation of modern pharmaceuticals.

EXPERIENCE ZULU CULTURE – be welcomed into the family homestead (Umuzi) and share a fresh and wholesome meal cooked the traditional way. Perhaps take a sip of the traditional beer as it is passed around. Dancing and singing is very much a part of the lifestyle of the Zulu people, and it is a privilege to be invited around the communal fire to experience traditional Zulu dancing at its best.

EXPLORE ROUTE 66 – Zululand’s Heritage Route, between Gingindlovu and Phongolo, follows one of the oldest trade routes through Zululand. In the early 19th Century, settlers would set off from Port Natal in their ox-wagons on well-worn tracks along the coast and cross the Thukela River into the heart of the Zulu Kingdom. Settlers where required to obtain permission from the king before heading inland to hunt and trade in his territory. Following in these same paths soon after were missionaries, transport riders, soldiers, colonial administrators, police, settlers and farmers. This route has been witness to immense changes and terrible conflict – clan against clan and kingdom against kingdom. The wagon tracks have long since made way for modern infrastructure but today’s visitors can still get a sense of how things used to be on Route 66.

Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk Of the many beautiful forests of Zululand, Dlinza is probably the most accessible and is currently visited by birdwatchers from all over the world hoping to catch a glimpse of one of the many bird species to be found there. The Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk is built in the 250-hectare forest reserve and it is the only indigenous forest completely surrounded by an urban setting. The 125-metre boardwalk, at an elevation of 10 metres, allows visitors to walk right under the canopy of Dlinza’s indigenous scarp forest and culminates in a 20-metre observation tower with a breathtaking view. The walkway, which is wheelchair friendly, provides intimate access to 65 bird and 85 butterfly species, as well as to small mammals such as red duiker, bush pigs and bush babies.

Ongoye Forest The Ongoye Forest is home to the endemic Ongoye Red Squirrel, numerous special plants and invertebrates as well as being the only place in Southern Africa to see Woodwards' (Green) Barbet. Other "green" specials include Green Twinspot, Green Malkoha, Olive Woodpecker, Olive BushShrike and Emerald Cuckoo. Samango monkeys, baboon, mongooses, thick-tailed bushbaby and the secretive blue duiker can be seen. The Zululand Dwarf Chameleon, a localised KwaZulu Natal endemic, is abundant at Ongoye and the forest green butterfly Euryphene achlys is unique to this forest.

www.treeroutes.co.za

GO TIGER FISHING – Situated within the Pongola Game Reserve and at the foot of the Lebombo Mountain range, the beautiful Lake Jozini is the most southern location in South Africa where tiger fishing is readily available.

North Coast

VISIT THE KING SHAKA GRAVESITE AND MEMORIAL – located in the town of KwaDukuza, formerly Stanger, which was established in 1872 on the site of the former Dukuza a settlement of King Shaka and the site of his assassination in 1828.

WALK THROUGH THE MOREWOOD MEMORIAL GARDENS – located in Verulam, they commemorate the life and work of Sir Edmund Morewood, who grew the first commercial sugar cane in South Africa and was the founder of the South African sugar industry. When his first crop of sugar cane reached maturity in1851, he made the first sugar ever produced in this country, in a primitive factory which once stood where the garden now lies. The picturesque garden provides an interesting heritage site which has been designated National Monument status.

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African Emerald Cuckoo - pic Adam Riley / Rockjumper Birding

VIEW THE BARN SWALLOWS – an estimated three-million Barn (European) swallows breed in Europe and travel to southern Africa where they stay from October until April roosting in the Mount Moreland reedbeds. The huge number of birds landing to roost at dusk and leaving to forage at dawn makes for a spectacular natural event best viewed from the Lake Victoria Conservancy in Mount Moreland.

Elephant Coast

Rocktail Beach Camp

GO DIVING – Sodwana Bay, situated within the World Heritage Site of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, is world-renowned for exquisite diving and is ideal for both shark and reef diving all year round, providing divers from around the world with an amazing opportunity to explore the unmarred coral reefs, home to a grand diversity of sea life.

GO GAME VIEWING – South Africa’s first proclaimed World Heritage Site, and Africa’s oldest game reserve, the Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park is credited with saving the once endangered white rhino, but it is also home to many species of antelope as well as large populations of elephant, buffalo and giraffe and predators such as the lion, cheetah and the elusive leopard.

GO WHALE-WATCHING – visiting whales migrate through the waters off the southern most section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park between the months of mid May to mid December annually. They choose the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, to calf and breed and an ideal way to observe these creatures of the deep is on a boat based whale watching charter.

GO KAYAKING – Kosi Bay Nature Reserve is an unspoiled nature reserve surrounding the rare and beautiful Kosi Bay lake system. It has been incorporated into the Isimangaliso Wetland Park. The 11,000ha, 30km-long reserve is a tropical paradise of crystal clear water, marshland, swamp and coastal forests that is home to about 250 species of bird. Kayak hire is available at Kosi Bay and Kosi Forest Lodge, the only private lodge in the nature reserve, offers guided kayaking adventures for guests staying at the lodge.

pic - Rocktail Beach Camp

GO BIRDING – with its wide variety in habitats, it is little wonder that this region offers some of South Africa's finest birding, with over 25 different birding spots and more than 500 species recorded (best during the summer months). Visit Ndumo Game Reserve, Mkhuze Game Reserve and the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. There are a number of Birdlife SA accredited establishments offering friendly service and great hospitality, often offering a packed brunch for early morning twitchers, as well as bird lists, reference material, information on birding in the area and local guides. These guides assist birders with their excellent observation skills and finding the 'specials' of a specific birding site, this not only adds value to any birding outing, but is an income generating opportunity for community guides.

www.wilderness-adventures.com

GO TURTLE-TRACKING - witness the extreme effort and determination of Giant Leatherback and Loggerhead turtles as they come ashore during the summer months to lay their eggs in carefully prepared nests. A few selected lodges in the Maputaland Marine Reserve offer guests the privilege of a turtle tracking experience – watch in awe as these giants of the sea emerge from the Indian Ocean to complete their breeding cycle. The pristine beaches in the region are the nesting ground of sea turtles that come to shore from October and December to lay their eggs – hatching occurs between December and March.

Accompany a resident turtle expert on a research drive to help monitor the turtles’ behaviour and nesting numbers.

Due to the sensitivity of these magnificent creatures, every precaution is taken to ensure that they are not disturbed during the laying process. Seeing a 750kg turtle haul herself up the beach to complete her egg laying, and then utterly spent, drag herself back into the ocean must rate as an ‘exceptional safari experience’.

responsible traveller 11

Battlefields EXPLORE THE BATTLEFIELDS – with more recorded battlefields than anywhere else in Africa, this is the place to discover another facet of the Zulu Kingdom’s past. Battle sites include Isandlwana and Fugitives drift as well as other Anglo-Boer War and Voortrekker-Zulu battle sites. Besides taking an organised tour, there are several self-drive routes established to enable you to visit these historic towns and sites. Knowledgeable, friendly and accredited local guides are available and guarantee hour upon hour of captivating company.

GO BIRDING - the Amajuba Birding Meander offers a wide range of activities for birding enthusiasts, particularly for species where ‘grassveld meets the berg’. A whole range of species normally associated with grassveld, bushveld and mountain habitats are found in the Meander.

GO WHITE WATER RAFTING – the Thukela River, the largest river in KwaZulu-Natal, offers excellent white water rafting in Thukela Canyon section of the river.

GO WILD – the Ithala Game Reserve combines excellent tourist facilities with superb game viewing and bird watching, this magnificent reserve, situated in the rugged, mountainous thornveld of northern KwaZulu-Natal, is a game viewer’s paradise. Its rugged, mountainous thornveld and its multitude of habitats host a spectacular array of wildlife species. With terrain ranging from the heights of the Ngotshe Mountains to the deep Phongolo River valley, a thousand meters down, it reveals astonishing geological diversity and some of the oldest rock formations in the world, dating back in the region of 3 000 million years.

South Coast GO SWIMMING – seven South Coast beaches have achieved 2012/2013 Blue Flag status for their commitment to excellence in the areas of safety, amenities, cleanliness and environmental standards. They are: Umzumbe Beach near Pumula, Lucien Beach near Margate, Marina Beach at Southbroom as well as the Margate, Ramsgate, Southport and Trafalgar beaches.

GO SCUBA DIVING – scuba diving is a popular adventure activity with excellent deep-sea diving areas at Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks, the resting place for a number wrecks. Wreck diving has added an interesting dimension to this kilometrelong underwater wonderland that has an abundance of soft corals, sponges, and hiding places, which have combined to attract over 1200 species of fish, as well as turtles, rays, sharks and whales. From July to December the Aliwal Shoal’s Raggie Cave, Cathedral and Shark Gully - famed for their shark diving; is the congregation point for Ragged Tooth Sharks, where up to 60 sharks have been encountered at any one time.

GO GOLFING – this region is home to eleven of South Africa’s finest golf courses – nine eighteen- and two nine-hole golf courses, each offering both the serious and leisure golfer a variety of golfing challenges. Ten of these golf are situated along a stunning 120 kilometre stretch of coastline with

12 responsible traveller

tropical vegetation and the warm Indian Ocean as the backdrop.

GO ADVENTURE – the spectacular kloofs and crags of the Oribi Gorge reserve, which at approximately 400m deep, offer a good dose of adrenalin and the opportunity to see these cliffs ‘up close’. Take the plunge with Oribi’s abseiling, zip-line or big swing.

EXPERIENCE THE SARDINE RUN – every winter, there is the phenomenon of the sardine run - millions of sardines migrate up the coast, accompanied by dolphins and other large fish and the thousands of sea birds which feed on them. Whether in the capable, experienced hands of an air- or sea- borne tour operator, or simply armed with the Sardine Hotline number plus a pair of binoculars and plastic tub the Zulu Kingdom's annual winter Sardine Run is a unique experience that guarantees memories for a lifetime.

GO SURFING – the South Coast is blessed with plenty of swell and a string of points which create the perfect conditions for quality surfing waves. The waves, generated in the southern oceans, sweep up the coast from the south west, intersecting with the coast at just the right angle to create optimum surfing conditions.

pic - WHS Simien / www.africanheritagesites.org

uKhahlamba Drakensberg HIKE IN LOTENI NATURE RESERVE – which is renowned for its beautiful scenery, and is home to reedbuck, blessbuck, eland, bushbuck and oribi.

GO HORSE RIDING – experience the mountains on horseback.

From hour-long rides in the foothills to a three-day trek into Lesotho in the safe hands of a local guide and a sure-footed Basotho pony.

VISIT A VULTURE RESTAURANT – watch the enormous Bearded Vultures as they fly overhead before settling down to squabble over the pickings. At one time the vulture was a common sight, but due to habitat loss and sadly the poisoning of animal carcasses, both intentionally and unintentionally, their numbers declined dramatically. It was during the 1960s, as the decline in vulture numbers began to become obvious, that the idea of vulture restaurants became popular. A vulture restaurant provides wild populations struggling to survive with a concentrated, poison free and reliable food source.

SEEK OUT ANCIENT BUSHMAN ROCK ART – evidence of the San people who lived in the area long time ago. These paintings are one of the Drakensberg’s greatest cultural treasures, with

some 20 000 individual rock paintings having been recorded at 500 different cave and overhang sites between Royal National Park in the north and Bushman’s Nek in the south.

Eland are the animal most often depicted in the Bushman or San paintings and held a special place in the lives and ceremonies of the Bushman – symbolising all that is good.

GO KLOOFING IN THE INJASUTI VALLEY’S KONG CANYON – enjoy a series of wet and dry abseils, fantastic rappels down trickling waterfalls, dips in little pools and some bouldering to boot.

HIKE UP TO THE SOURCE OF THE UTHUKELA RIVER – watch as it plunges some 950 metres over the edge of the Mont-aux-Sources Plateau in spectacular fashion. This waterfall, the uThukela Falls, is the second highest waterfall in the world and possible the most photographed landscape in the region.

TAKE TO THE TREES – get a bird’s-eye-view of the Central Drakensberg’s ‘Blue Grotto. The Drakensberg Canopy Tour is a sure way to experience the incredible majesty of ancient trees, rocky crags and if you’re lucky some of the endemic birds. responsible traveller 13

Talking Responsible Tourism on the KZN South Coast pic - The Gorge Private Game Lodge & Spa

Words - Martin Hatchuel

Last year’s announcement by the World Tourism Organisation – that international arrivals had topped the one billion mark - should ring alarm bells for anyone who’s involved in travel and hospitality. It means that fully one seventh of the world’s population is now on the move every year - and that means we need to start asking ourselves if the planet has the resources to sustain this.

Which is where responsible travel comes in.

Tourism - and it’s twin sister, the communications technology that’s helped its meteoric rise - are two of the great interruptions of the 21st Century.

But done right, responsible travel says that tourism can thrive without ruining everything - and that it can go further, too, to become a fundamental force for good in the world.

Responsible travel is travel that makes better places to live in, and better places to visit.

This makes the concept very different to things like cultural tourism, ecotourism, sports tourism or any other sector of the tourism industry - including sustainable tourism (which is something that will only be achieved when the transport industry becomes sustainable. And that will only happen when viable alternatives to non-renewable fossil fuels finally reach the masses.).

Sustainably designed suites overlooking the Oribi Gorge at The Gorge Private Game Reserve & Spa 16 responsible traveller

Responsible travel is a way of life rather than a mode of tourism, and one that involves both traveller and host communities be they human or environmental.

For the people in the system, this means taking responsibility for everything we do.

Responsible Travel is responsible travel: it’s quite possible to take part in one kind of tourism experience in the morning, and another in the afternoon, and find that one abides by the requirements of the Cape Town Declaration (the founding document for responsible tourism), while the other ignores them – that one is responsible, and one is not.

The shift in our awareness of our roles as visitors and hosts requires a shift in how we market our destinations.

Particularly, it’s become quite clear that the traditional branding model is something that works for corporations in which everyone reports to a board of directors which can, and must, expect everyone to deliver on a homogenous brand promise - but that it can’t work for destinations, which are complex and often conflicting mixes of people, cultures, and places. And this is where the social web comes in: it’s the channel which allows destinations and travellers to speak to one another on a human level. As Jack Dorsey, a founder of both Twitter & FourSquare, said when he accepted the Cannes Lions 2012 Media Person of the Year award: “Twitter is not a new media. It’s the global conversation we’ve always thirsted for.”

But how can the people of Ugu South Coast Tourism get involved in responsible travel, and how can they market themselves via the social web?

“We introduced the concept of responsible travel to our members at the Business Breakfast at last year’s Africa Bike Week, and it was interesting to see how the Bike Week’s sponsors, Harley Davidson, have incorporated many of its ideals into its own brand promise,” said Michael Bertram, CEO of the South Coast’s destination marketing organisation.

“Now our members have said that they want to know more - so we’ve decided to present a seminar titled ‘Responsible Travel and the Social Web’ in Umtentweni on the 15th of May - during which Martin Hatchuel will talk us through the concept of responsible travel, and Ron Mader (who runs www.planeta.com, the world’s oldest responsible travel web site) will explain how we can use the social web to market ourselves as a place worth visiting.”

Appropriately, Mr. Mader, who’ll be in Mexico on that day, will present his lecture on line via Google+ Hangouts – and it’ll be broadcast live on YouTube, and recorded and archived for anyone to see. (@ThisTourismWeek will Tweet the link as soon as the Hangout has been created on the day of the event.

Follow the hash tag #MarketingSA.)

Local Guides at the Oribi Gorge ‘Wild 5’ adventure centre

In preparation for the event, Mr. Mader hosted a series of unscripted Hangouts every Wednesday during April - all embedded at http://planeta.wikispaces.com/marketingsaduring which he discussed some of the principles of the social web (storytelling, geolocation), as well as things like QR codes, and the future of trade shows with a number of international guests.

“Responsible travel is a relatively new concept, and the whole idea of the social web is a learning curve for all of us - but they’re both vital because they’re the future of tourism and travel marketing,” said Mr. Bertram.

For more information, contact Wendy on info@tourismsouthcoast.co.za or telephone 039 6827944 www.tourismsouthcoast.co.za www.thistourismweek.co.za

Southbroom Golf Club, committed to environmental practices responsible traveller 17

Heritage Member News...

HERITAGE LAUNCHES AN UPDATED VERSION OF THEIR GREENLINE RESPONSIBLE TOURISM PROGRAMME In a world where the terms ‘green’, ‘responsible’ and ‘eco’ have come to mean just about anything, GreenLine offers travellers and tourism products a service that means what it says. It is a professional tourism-based responsible business certification initiative designed to recognise and promote tourism businesses that meet internationally-accepted standards of responsibility. From care for the environment to fair and equitable distribution of income and the protection of cultures and traditions, GreenLine has been designed to reflect the best that travel has to offer.

“At Greenline,” say Greg McManus, Managing Director of the Heritage Environmental Management Company, “we are passionate about responsible travel and about addressing the impacts that irresponsible and unplanned travel has on our environment, communities, traditions and cultures. Greenline recognises the efforts being made to reduce these impacts sometimes in very small but considerate ways, and encourages even more responsible practice in a sustainable manner. By choosing GreenLine as your certification and travel partner, you can be assured that your impacts are being managed to ensure that the beauty of your destination is protected for the benefit and enjoyment of future generations. After all, don’t we owe our children that at the very least?”

GreenLine is a certification initiative offered by the Heritage Environmental Management Company, Africa’s leading tourism-based environmental certification programme. With over twelve years experience in certification, they offer the most cost-effective and benefits-driven Responsible Tourism (RT) certification option available.

GreenLine has been part of the process to develop the South African National Responsible Tourism Standard, so has insight into the national strategy and can provide each tourism business with unique insights into certification.

This experience, together with their background in tourism quality assurance systems, enables GreenLine to create workable solutions to sustainability issues, and guidance Knysna Tourism

towards globally recognised responsible business practice.

The GreenLine RT Programme offers two levels of certification - both based on the South African National Responsible Tourism Standard (SANS1162) and other international RT programmes.

The Silver Class level of the programme incorporates only the National standard, while the Gold Class level includes additional standards unique to GreenLine. As a business you can choose which level you want to comply with as a member, remembering that you can progress from Silver to Gold as and when your business grows and you become more aware of your impacts.

SILVER CLASS members have achieved recognition by meeting the South African National Responsible Tourism Standards. These are a set of minimum standards for recognition at the national level, and they are common to all other accredited certifiers in South Africa. This level gives you a good start on the road to sustainable and continually improving performance.

GOLD CLASS members have gone further than the National standard by implementing the range of additional standards the GreenLine Programme requires. These additional standards take your business to the next level of responsibility and ensure sustainable and constantly improved performance to an internationally recognised level.

The Greenline website offers a self-evaluation service (at present linked to the South African Department of Tourism self-evaluation facility), whereby you can quickly determine just how well you are doing in terms of the National Responsible Tourism Standard.

This guide can quickly determine what you still need to do towards certification to the national standard – or enables you to simply to monitor your own performance. It does not, however, entitle you to position or market yourself as compliant to the national standard - or the Greenline standard, unless you have been independently audited and certified.

Villa Rosa,

Stormsriver Adventures

18 responsible traveller

Heritage Member News...

Being certified as a responsible business brings its own rewards associated with operating costs and savings, but as a member of the GreenLine RT Programme you are a free page listing on eco-beds.com, a global commission-free reservations platform dedicated to responsible accommodation and services (www. eco-beds.com). This includes a link to your online reservation site or email address as well as a free page listing to tell the world about your commitment to responsible tourism and to raise awareness of what you have to offer.

Greenline is being promoted globally to attract the thousands of visitors that specifically look for your details, adding value to your own marketing and promotional activities. In addition to this, GreenLine Members get free weekly news-briefs containing interesting news and advice about the world of responsible travel; the environment and sound corporate social advice. A quarterly newsletter keeps members up-todate with what’s happening in Greenline and offers advice on international best practice.

Becoming part of the GreenLine Responsible Tourism Programme involves an annual licence and certification fee according to the size of your business. This fee entitles all the benefits of the programme - irrespective of your size or location.

So what is the difference between the GreenLine Programme and the Heritage Programme?

•

GreenLine is open to all tourism products (accommodation) irrespective of the number of rooms. The fees are based on a sliding scale according to the number of rooms and potential benefit accrued

•

All GreenLine members are visited once a year for verification purposes. Their actual application is an on-line questionnaire that requires the business to confirm compliance with specific criteria.

These are then analysed by Heritage and then the member is accepted. Once a year we review their submission(s) on-site

•

GreenLine is aligned with the National Standard at all points

•

GreenLine has two levels – Silver Class (where the national standards are met) and Gold (where the national standards are exceeded)

•

Standards are available on our website

•

Fees start as little as R50.00 per room per year

•

Our benefits include commission free reservations platform (Eco-Beds.com website); electronic promotional opportunities and other marketingrelated benefits

“The Greenline Programme is a Responsible Tourism Certification initiative – while the Heritage Programme is a comprehensive Environmental Management System and Certification product” says McManus.

“They are distinctly different – but very complimentary, and we believe this is a new way of looking at the industry’s need for independent endorsement of their performance”.

!Xaus Lodge

Tsitsikamma Backpackers

Mannabay Fine Boutique Hotel responsible traveller 19

Heritage Member News...

DRAKENSBERG SUN RESORTS ENVIRONMENTAL CENTRE HAS A NEW SCENE What used to be the Drakensberg Sun Resort’s recycling area at the top of the property has evolved into a fully working environmental centre, where guests can view and learn about what they do on a daily basis to reduce their carbon footprint.

This includes a fully working worm farm that produces about 50lt of worm tea per month, a mushroom farm where they grow their own oyster mushrooms and the garden composting area. New editions to the area are the herb and, soon to be, vegetable garden sections and the food waste recycling, which turns food waste into compost.

What started in 2012 as a small project to provide hard to come by herbs to the hotel kitchen has all changed – the herb garden has now increased in size and is providing the hotel and the local vegetable supplier in the area with fresh herbs.

These include chives, mint, chocolate mint, basil, thyme, curry leaves and winter lettuce. A 15x28 m vegetable garden is also in the process of being established to grow vegetables for the hotel and to provide for local consumers. This project is a small business in the making, as what was previously an employee position, is now a business opportunity for a gentleman from the local community. Both the vegetables and herbs will be part of this business and will be sold to the hotel, with guests and locals being able to buy out of a little shop that they are busy building in the centre. The shop is being constructed using 80% recycled materials sourced from the property. When necessary the Drakensberg Sun will assist with the employment of extra labour to assist with the daily running of the centre.

Food waste has always been an issue, as it cannot be fed to the worms and needs to be disposed of in the traditional manner as garbage. A new initiative in the Environmental Centre is a food waste recycling programme. All the food waste is collected, layered in drums and then Bokashi (Japanese word for fermenting organic waste) added to assist the composting process. The advantage of Bokashi is that it works fast, in a matter of days not months, and is practically odourless if managed properly – the process only takes 3 – 4 weeks to have ready to use organic compost which is being used to prepare the soil for the new vegetable garden. This Bokashi project runs hand-in-hand with Drakensberg Sun Resort and Udobrini Environmentals SA.

Shaded Herb Garden

www.tsogosunhotels.com/resorts/drakensberg-sun Bokashi Food Waste Recycling

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Outside Vegetable Garden

Pic s- Two Oceans Aquarium

Heritage Member News...

WIND ENERGY AT THE TWO OCEANS AQUARIUM Thanks to local NGO ‘Project 90 by 2030’ the Two Oceans Aquarium is one of six renewable energy demonstration sites in South Africa. With funding from the German government the Aquarium installed solar panels and a wind turbine and this renewable energy is feeding power to the admin offices on the east side of the Aquarium building. Not only is the Aquarium using less energy from the national grid, it is also using the renewable technologies to educate its visitors about energy.

Dr Pat Garratt, Managing Director of the Aquarium said, “The main theme of the project is to provide a physical educational reference from which the Aquarium and ‘Project 90 by 2030’ can inform the public and visiting school groups about the benefits of renewable energy resources and what the average visitor can do to help reduce energy consumption in South Africa. It is hoped that this will help ‘Project 90 by 2030’ to reach its goal of South Africa reducing carbon emissions by 90% by the year 2030”.

According to Mike de Maine, the Aquarium’s Technical Manager and the driving force behind the organisation’s energy-saving initiatives, “Project 90 by 2030 is a great initiative to help educate people around reduction in power consumption which leads to a reduction in carbon emissions with the end goal of saving the planet.” The wind turbine which is clearly visible on the entrance archway to the Aquarium is a vertical turbine as opposed to a horizontal turbine. The rationale for this choice is that vertical turbines are less noisy and they are also more visible to birds thereby reducing the potential of bird fatalities. The vertical turbine is also more aesthetically pleasing or as Mike says, “It’s damn sexy!”.

So how does it work?

Wind turbines work pretty much the same way as windmills.

As the wind causes the blades to turn, the blades collect the wind’s energy. The blades are connected to a driveshaft that turns an electric generator to produce electricity.

For more information contact: Helen Lockhart, Communications and sustainability manager: Two Oceans Aquarium www.aquarium.co.za responsible traveller 21

Environmental News...

GREENPOP LAUNCHES TREES FOR ZAMBIA 2013 In 2012 Greenpop launched Trees for Zambia, a reforestation and eco-awareness project which began with a 3-week tree planting event and was followed by an ongoing campaign to inspire awareness about deforestation, climate change, tree planting, environmental sustainability and alternative energy sources. Trees for Zambia 2013 will be the second Action Event hosted in Livingstone to boost the project and plant over 5000 trees in schools, on subsistence farms and in re-forestation sites. Again Greenpop will host educational workshops for school children, subsistence farmers and volunteers. Trees for Zambia is a holistic awareness campaign based on getting people active about making sustainable changes.

www.greenpop.org/projects/trees-for-zambia

From 7th to 28th July 2013, the Trees for Zambia Conference of Action will be held in Livingstone, Zambia. Greenpop invites people, young and old, to come along for 1 to 3 weeks.

Trees for Zambia 2013 - Aims: • Create awareness around the deforestation issue and highlight grassroots solutions that can start being implemented.

• Develop a culture of planting trees within communities through conservation education, and by teaching

people how to plant and look after trees.

• Highlight the global value of conserving the world’s natural forests.

• Promote and provide alternative energy sources

(particularly solar cooking), so that people can move away from the dependence on charcoal.

• Start reforestation in protected forest sites to replace

the pioneer trees, allowing for new growth and

regeneration of soil content.

• Educate children on their natural environment, and

help feed them by planting fruit trees at under privileged schools.

• Promote conservation farming methods to replace

slash and burn techniques that will stop erosion and

soil degradation, create more cost-efficient farms and help avoid fires.

• Start a micro tree nursery enterprise at a selected

number of subsistence farms, so that we can provide farmers with an additional income by buying trees

from them.

• Create an exciting and stimulating programme of

practical work, lectures and workshops for local and

international volunteers, through which they can

educate themselves and be actively involved in

environmental issues.

What to expect: • Get Active and Dig – plant trees and make solar cookers at local schools and in national parks • Learn – Attend workshops & lectures on current environmental issues • Educate – Teach children about conserving their natural environment (and learn from them too) • Share – Connect with other like-minded local and international volunteers • Explore – Experience the magic of Livingstone, Zambia – home of the majestic Victoria Falls responsible traveller 23

Environmental News...

YES AND WILDLANDS CREATE 600 OPPORTUNITIES FOR THE YOUTH According to the South African National Treasury, 7.5 million people in this country are currently unemployed and of those 73% are younger than 35. Furthermore, 42% of young people under the age of 30 are unemployed compared with less than 17 per cent of adults over 30.

Employment of 18 to 24 year olds has fallen by more than 20% (320 000) since December 2008. Unemployed young people tend to be less skilled and inexperienced – almost 86% do not have formal further or tertiary education, while two-thirds have never worked.

In response to this the South African Department of Environmental Affairs issued a call to Non Profit Organisations and Training Institutes to participate as Implementing Agencies in the Youth Environmental Services (YES) programme. The aim of the programme is to: expose youth to the green economy as an alternative destination for employment (changing aspirations); build capacity through training (human development); enable future employment through education; provide experiential learning in the workplace and create ecoentrepreneurs (promoting self-employment). The Wildlands Conservation Trust responded to the call with a proposal to enable youth participation in the Green Economy in the KwaZulu-Natal and Eastern Cape Provinces.

The proposal was successful and Wildlands was appointed as Implementing Agency for the YES program in those two provinces (9 projects in total – one per province).

Recruitment of project beneficiaries started in December 2012 and by January 2013, 200 young individuals joined TAJ CAPE TOWN GIVES THANKS TO MOTHER NATURE As part of Taj Cape Town’s effort to conserve their environment, this luxury hotel situated in the heart of the Mother City, is dedicating 100 days to giving back to Mother Nature.

This initiative, known as “100 Days of Giving Back to Planet Earth” and spearheaded by the Taj Hotel Group has launched worldwide, urging each and every one of us to come together and reduce our carbon footprint. “Throughout the years, mankind has played a major role in contributing to the environmental threats that have caused our planet to become vulnerable and suffer as a result of our actions and behaviour,” says Willie Williams, Director of Sales and Marketing. “Mother Earth has given us everything and it is time for us to Give Back, hence our commitment to continue offering the same luxury and bespoke service at Taj Cape Town, in a more environmentally conscious way.”

The campaign kicked off on Earth Hour (23 March 2012).

The Taj Cape Town will be implementing small changes, yet with big effect, such as cutting all paper printing as far possible, using LED throughout the hotel and switching off all electricity flow to unoccupied rooms. The hotel is not only encouraging guests to support this initiative but is also motivating all staff and associates to carry this through in their work, as well as at home, taking the initiative further in their own lives and thus society. www.tajcapetown.co.za 24 responsible traveller

the Trust to receive accredited training in Natural Resource Management, and to provide community services in the Umgungundlovu and eThekwini Municipalities in KwaZulu-Natal and in the Port St John’s, Mbothyi and Cata areas in the Eastern Cape. In the second year of the 3-year project, the scope will expand to the Umkhanyakude and Zululand Districts in KwaZulu-Natal and as far south as the Plains of the Camdeboo and Graaf-Reinet in the Eastern Cape. On completion 600 young persons (200 per year) would have gone through the accredited training course and workplace skills learning and the Trust hopes to provide exit opportunities in the form of further learning, direct employment or self-employment to at least 75% of those who participate in the program.

“Research shows that the green economy is one of the key sectors for growth that can provide employment in South Africa. If we are going to address the social and environmental problems of the country it’s imperative that we enable the participation of young people in the current system, else they will feel isolated and uninterested in participating in the development of the country. The YES program offers an opportunity to engage with young people and to capacitate them to be part of the growing green economy that is transforming South Africa into a more just society,” commented Roelie Kloppers, Director at the Wildlands Conservation Trust. www.wildlands.co.za

Durban’s finest...

in great style

Ask anyone what KwaZulu-Natal is famous for and likely (and highly enthusiastic) responses will include vibrant Zulu rickshas, the warm, inviting Indian Ocean, the picturesque Drakensberg mountains and the mysterious Big 5. In addition... the list is almost certain to include a curry! Durban is known for many colourful attractions, one of the most notable is its tantalising curries. Very few tourists leave without enjoying an authentic Durban curry. responsible traveller 25

Curry was introduced to the colony of Natal over 150 years ago by indentured sugarcane labourers, who brought with them the aromatic foods of India. In fact, the word curry stems from the Tamil word ‘kari’ which means ‘sauce’. The unique flavours of Indian cooking, which were embraced by British settlers and the Zulus, have been developed to make the curry particular to Durban, famous around the world.

The flavours of this spicy red dish - derived from hot curries of Gujarat and Tamil Nadu - are enhanced by fiery chillies, which are the main ingredient in the curry powder, giving a rich colour and hearty flavour. The array of tasty Durban curries encompass many glorious dishes made from chicken, prawns, fish, beef and vegetables, but the most popular choice is lamb or mutton. So what’s the difference between an Indian curry and a Durban curry? Indian curries are usually coloured yellow with turmeric, while Durban curries, which are hotter, are coloured red with tomatoes, chillies and cayenne pepper.

Expert curry makers from Durban boast that a typical Durban Masala curry powder has about 12 different ingredients in the blend. These include ground coriander, cinnamon, cumin, curry leaves, fennel seed, dried chillies and cayenne pepper, as well as ginger and garlic.

A typical Durban curry is made in a heavy pan. Onions are browned in oil, then curry powder is added, followed by the garlic and ginger. This mixture is simmered before the lamb, chicken, beef or fish is folded in and then all the remaining ingredients are added. The pan is covered and the dish is left to simmer, bringing all the flavours together. Coriander is added just before serving. Durban curry is usually served over rice, with condiments such as chutney, sambals and papadums.

The best places to find the ingredients for a Durban curry are the Durban Spice Market, the Spice Emporium and Gorima’s.

These are the homes of spicy blends of curry powders, one of which has been fondly named ‘mother-in-law’s tongue’ known for its fiery flavours. Remember, that although Durban curries can bring tears to the eye, there is always plenty of flavour in every dish.

What’s also notable in the world of local curry - if you ask any Indian Durbanite ‘who makes the best curry?’ - they will always say their mother does!

26 responsible traveller

The quest for the perfect curry has spread throughout the world, but what’s put KwaZulu-Natal on the culinary map apart from our famous Durban curries - is the invention of the ‘bunny chow’.

The word ‘bunny’ is derived from the word ‘bania’ which, in Durban, describes an Indian trader. This unique street food - a simple, yet tasty meal - is essentially a curry served in a bread ‘bowl’. The popularity of this dish has encouraged even the poshest curry restaurants to serve a bunny chow.

The bunny chow is a hollowed-out quarter, half or full loaf of bread, filled with any curry, including beef, mutton, chicken or beans. The bread which was removed to make room for the curry is then placed on top of the bunny like a lid, before it is wrapped. Some chefs even add sambals to their bunnies.

So how do you eat a bunny? Local etiquette dictates that a bunny chow should always be eaten with the fingers - tear pieces off of the side of the loaf and dip them in the gravy.

The trick is to avoid taking pieces off the loaf thatare below the gravy line. Also, steer clear of the gravy if you are in real difficulties with the heat, as experience has shown that it is the hottest part of the curry.

The Oyster Box in Umhlanga Rocks, is the perfect place to enjoy a Durban curry in style. The Ocean Terrace, which overlooks the Indian Ocean, offers an array of gastronomic delights all day, including a full English breakfast buffet or an à la carte menu for lunch and dinner. But it’s Durban’s finest Indian cuisine from The Curry Buffet that is a highlight for every curry enthusiast.

The incredible Curry Buffet attracts curry fans from all over the world. The impressive selection of Indian cuisine, as well as locally inspired dishes, includes over 10 curries daily.

“Our chefs use delicate blends of spices and fresh herbs to create meat, fish and vegetarian curries - each a masterpiece in itself,” says General Manager Wayne Coetzer. “Come and enjoy our freshly prepared Tandoori chicken, our signature traditional Durban lamb curry or the famous chicken and prawn curry”. These and many more have become firm favourites.

Also on the menu is a Singapore fish curry, a spicy lamb vindaloo and smooth textured butter chicken. Vegetarian options include bean and botie, vegetable korma and sugar bean curry. Fresh condiments, like lime, mango and jack fruit pickle, as well as various chutneys, sambals and fruits, go hand in hand with naan breads, papadums and roti to ensure a perfect feast. And guests are encouraged to taste and relish each one!

Executive chef, Kevin Joseph, who oversees this delectable feast, describes his cooking style as ‘classic with a twist of modern’. He is passionate about food and cooks from the heart, an attitude he has clearly passed onto his two young sons who he says are both his biggest critics and biggest supporters. Kevin believes in generous portions and gets the most pleasure from people enjoying good food. Kevin is emphatic about using the freshest ingredients available and prefers to source ingredients locally.

THE OYSTER BOX FAMOUS LAMB CURRY Ingredients: 1 kg leg of lamb or shoulder (or 1 kg chicken), cubed 75 ml oil 1 onion, diced 2 cloves 2 cinnamon sticks (10 cm long) 20 ml medium strength masala curry powder 1 teaspoon salt 10 ml crushed garlic and ginger 4 curry leaves 5 ml whole fennel seeds 250 ml water (one cup) 2 large potatoes, peeled and cut in half 1 medium tomato, skinned and diced Coriander (Dhania) leaves for garnishing Method: Wash cubed meat and drain water.

Heat oil. Add diced onion, cloves and cinnamon sticks.

Add masala curry powder, stir and add meat to the pot.

Add salt, garlic and ginger, curry leaves and fennel seeds.

Stir all ingredients together and allow to cook on a high heat for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and continue cooking for half an hour.

As excess water and juices evaporate, add the additional cup of water, followed by the potato and tomato.

When both meat and vegetables are cooked (approximately 30 minutes), simmer on high heat for 5 minutes.

Garnish with coriander and serve with rice, roti and green salad.

Preparation and cooking time: 1 hour Serves: 4 people

RESTAURANT RESERVATIONS: The Incredible Curry Buffet is served in The Ocean Terrace daily from 12h00 - 15h00 for lunch and 18h00 - 22h00 for dinner.

Please contact Restaurant Reservations on +27 (0) 31 514 5000 or email restaurants@oysterbox.co.za

responsible traveller 27

Exciting changes ahead for Fair Trade Tourism This month, Fair Trade in Tourism South Africa (FTTSA) is changing its name to Fair Trade Tourism (FTT) in order to signal the intention of becoming a regional responsible tourism certification programme. At the same time, the new FTT brand and website will also be launched.

The new FTT business plan was developed as a result of the organisation having reached a point in its development where it was ready to accelerate growth through new marketing and product acquisition strategies. Scaling up supply of certified businesses is necessary to meet demand, especially from European and North American markets for responsible tourism products. Growth of supply can be stimulated by partnerships with various stakeholders, most notably Business Development Service (BDS) providers that can help to raise awareness about FTT-certification and prepare businesses to become (re)certified.

During 2013-2016 FTT will transform itself from a hybrid certification-cum-development organisation into a dynamic, professional market development organisation with one or more outsourced certification service providers. Separating certification from market development activities is consistent with international best practice and engenders various opportunities for the market development organisation to facilitate BDS and other services directly and indirectly to FTTcertified businesses, without conflict of interest.

FTT will stimulate supply of certified tourism businesses in eight southern African destinations: Botswana, Lesotho, Madagascar, Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa, Swaziland and Tanzania. Growth will be supported by a combination of 28 responsible traveller

expansion of the Fair Trade Tourism mark and collaboration with existing responsible tourism certification programmes.

The expansion to other destinations will be pursued gradually, dependent on demand and resources, with Madagascar being the first destination expected to launch Fair Trade Tourism certification shortly.

As part of the business plan development, the FTT standard has been revised and updated to ensure compliance with national and international guidelines such as SANS 1162 and the Global Sustainable Tourism Criteria (GSTC). Going forward, businesses as well as holiday makers can rest assured that the same high standards as previously will be expected by FTTcertified businesses.

The FTT mark will be awarded to businesses that show commitment to Fair Trade criteria including fair wages and working conditions, fair purchasing, fair operations, equitable distribution of benefits and respect for human rights, culture and environment. By electing to stay at or use the services of an FTT-certified business, tourists are assured that their travel benefits local communities and economies, and that the business is operated ethically and in a socially and environmentally responsible manner. FTT will undertake this ambitious expansion plan with the generous support of the Swiss State Secretariat for Economic Affairs (SECO) and other donors.

pic - SA Tourism pic - Grootbos Private Nature Reserve

For more information about Fair Trade Tourism; FTT-certified businesses & how to become certified, please visit the Fair Trade Tourism website

www.fairtradetourism.org.za responsible traveller 29

words & pics – Tessa Buhrmann

101things to see on safari ...at &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve

When tasked with finding somewhere that was likely to fulfil the brief for our ‘101 things to see on safari in KZN’, &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve came to mind immediately. With an incredible diversity in habitats and its commitment to conservation, community and the environment it seemed the obvious choice – and they exceeded our expectations!

Phinda’s slice of Africa boasts seven distinct habitats woodland, grassland, wetland and forest, interspersed with mountain ranges, river courses, marshes and pans.

This landscape offers a wealth of diversity from the ‘Big 5’ to the little critters - large African Elephant to the tiny secretive Suni antelope, and the spectacular Crowned Eagle to the seemingly insignificant blue waxbill and the mighty Lebombo Wattle to the delicate epiphytic orchids found on its branches.

Experienced and knowledgeable rangers divulge the secrets of the bush and together with their amazing tracker are able to tell a tale from the almost invisible tracks in the sand and the lay of the grass. A wide range of birds, frogs, snakes, insects and butterflies as well as an incredible variety of trees, shrubs and grasses, all waiting to be identified, and each one perfectly created to fulfil its part in this diverse ecosystem. Here are some of the things you could encounter on safari at Phinda...

30 responsible traveller

1

SAND FOREST – a species-rich, dry forest growing on what is essentially beach sand (ancient fossil dunes) left from an earlier coastline. Botanically, this is one of the most unique habitats in South Africa with a number of endemic species

2

RED DUIKER –can be seen around Forest and Vlei Lodge, this small stocky antelope is restricted to forests of the eastern part of southern Africa

3

SUNI –weighing in at just 4-5 kg, it is the tiniest antelope in southern Africa and can be seen in the Sand Forest

4

SANDVELD NEWTONIA (Lebombo Wattle) – Newtonia hildebrandtii is a giant tree with very rough cracked bark, often home to epiphytic orchids and lichens

5

EPIPHYTIC ORCHIDS - such as the wiry orchid Microcoelia exilis are often seen in large trees

African Elephant

6

LEAFLESS, EPIPHYTIC CACTUS – Rhipsalis baccifera is the only indigenous cactus in South Africa and can commonly be seen on larger trees

7

LICHENS – the Old Man’s Beard (Usnea species) is the most conspicuous of the lichens found in the Sand Forest, and can be seen draped in feathery strands from the branches of trees in the Sand Forest

8

GREEN-APPLE – Monodora junodii has striking orchid-like flowers in the summer

9

GREEN-THORN (Torchwood) – Balanites maughamii is a tall tree with a fluted and buttressed trunk yielding oil rich seeds that are toxic to snails and aquatic creatures but relished by various mammals.

The dry kernels are said to ignite readily, hence its common name, ‘torchwood’

10

AFRICAN BROADBILL – difficult to locate, but a common sound in the sand forest. Its nest is a hanging purse made of Old Man’s Beard

Yellow-bellied Greenbul

Termite mound in the Sand Forest responsible traveller 31

11

EASTERN BEARDED SCRUB-ROBIN – a secretive bird that can be seen foraging in the leaf litter on the forest floor

12

CHAMELEON – can often be seen at night in the torch-light as you are escorted to your suite

31

BURCHELL’S COUCAL – often found in long grass, riverine scrub and reedbeds

13

TERMITE MOUNDS – provide fertile ground for trees to germinate

32

CRESTED FRANCOLIN – often seen scurrying along the roads and into the thick undergrowth

14

AFRICAN CROWNED EAGLE – live in pairs for life, and nest in large trees

33

15

NARINA TROGAN – a furtive species that is well camouflaged and difficult to see as it normally sits with its back to you

16

BLUE-MANTLED CRESTED FLYCATCHER – can be seen in the undergrowth of the forest surrounding Forest Lodge

COCKTAIL ANT – football sized carton nests are built in trees and bushes from vegetable fibres glued together with salivary secretions. Often built in Acacias for protection. They derive their name from their habit of raising their abdomen when threatened, the ‘cock tail’

34

BLUE WAXBILL – often nest in close proximity to Cocktail Ant nests for protection

17

YELLOW-BELLIED GREENBUL – often found in the thick tangles of forests and scrub

35

YELLOW-THROATED LONGCLAW – has yellow underparts and a bright yellow throat patch

18

CRESTED GUINEA FOWL – found in groups often foraging on the forest floor

36

CHEETAH – Phinda is one of the best places to see these spectacular speedy cats

19

STINK-BUSHWILLOW – Pteleopsis myrtifolia flowers attract insects and the foliage browsed by game

37

BROWN-HOODED KINGFISHER – a distinctive whistling call and insects are a favourite food

20

AFRICAN WOOD OWL – common resident in riverine forests, has a distinctive ‘huoo-hoo-hoo’ call that is often heard after dark

38

MARULA TREE – Sclerocarya birrea fruit is a favourite of elephants, monkeys and baboons. The sturdy stem makes an ideal rubbing post for elephant

21

BUSHBABY – a nocturnal primate, listen out for the hoarse wailing sound at night

39

22

SAVANNA – Phinda boasts three savanna types: Mixed Bushveld, found mostly in the southern part as well as Open Woodland and Palmveld, and Grass Savanna, mostly in the northern part

WEEPING BOER BEAN – Schotia brachypetala a spectacular tree in the spring when it is covered in deep red flowers producing copious amounts of nectar attracting insects and birds, especially sunbirds

23

LALA PALMS - Hyphaene coriacea is an important plant for the Zulu people, beer is made by tapping the sap from the stems, the young leaves are used in the making of basket-ware and the hard ivory-like fruit centre is used for ornamental carvings

40

CROWNED HORNBILL – has a distinctive red bill and yellow eyes

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SOUTHERN BANDED SNAKE EAGLE – a very special and uncommon visitor to the region

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BARK SPIDER – creates a one-dimensional web across roadways and paths, secured between two trees and to the ground

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GOLDEN ORB SPIDER – creates a three dimensional web, usually within bushes

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WAHLBERG’S EPAULETTED FRUIT BAT – widely distributed, can be identified at night by their persistent call

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VERVET MONKEY – its warning call often means a predator is in the vicinity

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BLACK RHINOCEROS – has a prehensile upper lip ideal for eating small branches, leaves, sticks and thorns. A great way to see the Black Rhino and to get a better perspective on the conservation efforts is to track them on foot with a specialist ranger and tracker (read about this experience in the digital edition)

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WHITE RHINOCEROS – the larger of the rhinoceros species, and has a square wide mouth ideal for eating grass

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NYALA – these antelope are plentiful, and can often be see around the lodges. The male sports a dark brown coat, yellow legs and a shaggy mane, while the female is a pretty chestnut colour with stripes and spots

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LION – the greatest of all predators in the African wilderness, lion was reintroduced into the area in 1992 and had not roamed free since 1928 when the last one was shot near Mkuze

poisonous to man. The fresh leaves however are enjoyed by giraffe, nyala and elephant and the bark savoured by porcupine

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LEOPARD – its beautiful spotted coat is sought after in the Zulu culture

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SPOTTED HYENA – nocturnal, tracks are often seen on the roads in the morning

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EUPHORBIA – Euphorbia ingens roots are eaten by porcupine and cane rats

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BUFFALO – males usually heavier and with larger horns than the females

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TAMBOTI – Spirostachys africana often grow in groves, and contains a toxic milky latex which is

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REDBILLED OXPECKER – often seen on the back of buffalo, giraffe, antelope and sometimes rhino

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Green Milkweed

Giraffe

Phinda’s slice of Africa boasts seven distinct habitats woodland, grassland, wetland and forest, interspersed with mountain ranges, river courses, marshes and pans, and offers a wealth of diversity Burchell’s Coucal Cocktail Ant nest

Crested Guinea Fowl

Crowned Eagle nest

Zebra and Lala Palm in the Palmveld Tamboti thicket

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Sub-adult cheetah

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DUNG BEETLE – lays its eggs in a chamber in the dung which the hatching larva will use to feed on until they change into a pupa and then later into a beetle

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BLUE WILDEBEEST – otherwise known as the Brindled Gnu

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GIRAFFE – generally found in herds with loose associations, often seen browsing on Acacias

– usually found in herds, only the male has 52 IMPALA horns

53 WARTHOG – families of warthog are plentiful, take shelter in old antbear holes entering backwards

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HIPPOPOTOMUS – rests during the day halfsubmerged in water, coming out to graze at night

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EUROPEAN BEE-EATER – a common summer visitor often seen in groups

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AFRICAN ELEPHANT – the herds migrate from the south to the north in dry weather and migrate back when it rains

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BLACK MONKEY ORANGE – Strychnos madagascariensis a favourite for elephant

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GREEN MILKWEED – Gomphocarpus fruticosus sometimes known as ‘old man’s balls’, this plant is a specific Monarch Butterfly food and habitat plant

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RED-BACKED SHRIKE – a common summer visitor and is the only shrike in the region with a chestnutcoloured back

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RAINBOW SKINK – often seen on the rocky pathways and walls at Mountain Lodge

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BURCHELL’S ZEBRA – besides the obvious, the gender can be identified by the black stripe running down their bottoms, females having the broader

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stripe. As per our ranger, ‘the males wear the g-string & the females the granny panties’

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RHINO COFFEE – Kraussia floribunda has a sweet fruit eaten by people, birds and monkeys. The leaves are browsed by rhino and antelope.

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KOOBOO BERRY – Mystroxylon aethiopicum leaves browsed by game and the bark stripped by black rhino

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BLACKSMITH LAPPETWING – previously known as the Plover, has a very vocal ‘tink, tink, tink’ sounds like a blacksmith hammering on an anvil

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FOREST NUM NUM - Carissa bispinosa is a delicious edible fruit, enjoyed by monkeys and birds

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RED GRASS – Themeda triandra after rain, the seed on the ground digs a hole for itself to assist with germination

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MAGIC GUARRI – Euclea divinorum the chewed ends of a twig can be used as a toothbrush.

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BASTARD UMBRELLA THORN – Acacia luederitzii usually tiny hooked thorns but with some abnormally enlarged thorns caused by stinging ants.

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SIDE STRIPED JACKAL – is less predatory than the Black Backed Jackal, and its diet includes small mammals, carrion, fruit, reptiles, eggs and birds.

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BLACK BACKED JACKAL – mainly nocturnal, may be seen hunting for rodents and insects in the veld in the early mornings and late afternoon.

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AFRICAN WILD CAT – looks like a domestic tabby cat but with longer legs

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WHITE-TAILED MONGOOSE – large nocturnal mongoose

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BURROWING ASP – back fanged venomous snake

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GIANT LEGLESS SKINK – a favourite food of the Burrowing Asp

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PUFF ADDER – a venomous sluggish snake sometimes seen basking in the sun on roads and paths in winter

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NILE CROCODILE – found in the rivers and permanent bodies of water

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DUNG – the texture, colour, shape, size and contents can be used to identify the animal. Fresh dung indicates that the animal could still be in the area

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SPOOR – animal spoor are used by the trackers and rangers to determine what animals have been in the area and give clues as to what to look out for

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KUDU – male has large set of horns and the female prominent ears

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WATERBUCK – can be recognised by the white ‘paint-tin’ circle around their tail

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EMERALDSPOTTED BUSH DOVE – common bird in the region with distinctive twin green wing spots

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RIVERS AND FLOODPLAINS – two rivers, the Mzinene and Munyawana, flow through Phinda converging on the eastern boundary and entering Lake St Lucia at the northern tip of False Bay

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FEVER TREE – Acacia xanthophloea aptly named the umHlosinga in Zulu means ‘tree that shines from far’. It can be found on the flood plains, with an impressive grove adjacent to the Mzinene River

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SYCAMORE FIG – Ficus sycamorus is a huge tree with a spreading crown found in riverine forests

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GIANT KINGFISHER – the male is unmistakeable with its long heavy bill and greater size

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PIED KINGFISHER – frequently found hovering over water before diving in to catch fish

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MALACHITE KINGFISHER – this small colourful kingfisher is often found in alongside freshwater lakes, rivers and streams

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PURPLE-CRESTED TURACO – can be seen leaping from branch-to-branch and tree-to-tree showing conspicuous red beneath its wings

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MARSHES AND PANS – these seasonal habitats are home to a variety of birds, frogs, invertebrates and plants. The Umdoni, otherwise known as the Waterberry Tree, Fever Tree and Wild Date Palm often grow on its fringes.

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WATER RAT – a near threatened species that can sometimes be seen scurrying across waterlilies

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BUBBLING KASSINA – this frog’s call sounds like bubbles through water

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FOAM-NEST FROG – build distinctive meringue-like nests that hang over the water

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PAINTED REED FROG – from the first spring rains and throughout summer, a repetitive piercing whistle can be heard

Caitlyn & Siphiwe checking for leopard spoor White-tailed Mongoose spoor

Burrowing Asp vs. Giant Legless Skink

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Dan, our tracker, ‘up-front’ on our late afternoon game drive through the Sand Forest

‘ Huge thanks to &Beyond and our great rangers and trackers for our awesome ‘Phinda experience’ – James and Dan at Forest Lodge; Caitlyn and Siphiwe at Mountain Lodge as well as senior ranger Grant and specialist rhino trackers Sipho and Bheki for the black rhino tracking experience ’

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AFRICAN JACANA –its extraordinarily long toes enable it to walk or run over waterlily pads. The female has a ‘harem’ of up to four males who have the job of raising the chicks, she lays one clutch after another to replace those lost to predators.

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AFRICAN FISH EAGLE – its call is distinctive as is its white head and breast and chestnut body

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WHITE-FACED WHISTLING DUCK – has a distinctive long neck and white face

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AFRICAN SPOONBILL – feeds with a characteristic side-to-side motion through the water

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ROCKY HILLSIDES – along the south-western perimeter of Phinda, the tail end of the Lebombo Mountains breaks up into a series of rocky hills rising above the savanna

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MOUNTAIN ALOE – Aloe marlothii can be seen on the rocky hillsides in the south-western region of Phinda

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AFRICAN ROCK PYTHON – a protected species, not commonly seen

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HAIRY ROCK FIG – Ficus glumosa figs eaten by birds, bats, monkeys baboons and antelope

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Male Lion resting after feasting on a zebra kill African Jacana hopping over waterlilies in the rain

Essentials: &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve Tel: +27 11 809 4447 Email: safari@andbeyond.com www.andbeyond.com

Zalala Beach Lodge where community matters…

As day breaks, the fishermen and boys appear with their boats and nets in search of the day’s catch and the sounds of their voices fill the air, along with the sounds of the breeze and the splashing of the waves against the shore. Besides drinking in this natural beauty, there are many attractions available to guests including kayaking trips and canoe rides in scenic surroundings close by.

The Lodge is situated in Zambezia, Mozambique’s most populous and most economically deprived province. While tourism has been thriving elsewhere in Mozambique, particularly in the South and North of the country, tourism development in this province was previously practically non-existent. The Zalala Beach Lodge is located close to two local communities, the one closest is Supinho, which has a population of some 10,000 people, whose main sources of livelihood are fishing and agriculture. The other community, Idugo, can only reached by boat and its main source of livelihood is from salt mining and to a lesser extent fishing and agriculture. The establishment of the Lodge has had a strong impact on the local economy and there have been many ways in which these local communities have benefited from the arrival of the Lodge and its activities.

One of the direct benefits has been the provision of employment. The construction phase of the Lodge which took place over a 3-4 year period, provided hundreds of either permanent or seasonal/casual jobs, and currently, there are 63 permanent members of staff and an average of 20-25 casual labourers employed on a monthly basis, most of which are from local communities. Another significant benefit for local communities is through trade with the Lodge. A local architect was employed to design most of the buildings and a local contractor to carry out the building works and most of the furniture in the bungalows is made from locally

sourced wood and crafted by local carpenters. In addition, a local tailor on a semi-permanent basis has been employed to make uniforms for all the staff.The restaurant serves mostly fish and sea food all of which is locally sourced, either from the fishermen who sell on the beach or those who sell in the central market in town. The Lodge also buys tomatoes, eggs and poultry locally and have recently started purchasing their daily bread supplies from a local baker.

Evidence of their support of the local arts and crafts industry can be seen at the Lodge. From the women’s dance groups who entertain at special occasions to the large hand-crafted pots seen around the Lodge. Other plans aimed at supporting local arts and crafts, and in particular, local women’s groups, include plans to commission local basket-makers and weavers to supply baskets, hats and beach mats for Lodge guests and other small goods to be sold in the Lodge shop. In most cases women are the chief providers of child care and family support. Many lack skills, training and opportunities. One of Zalala’s most successful initiatives to date is the Women’s Pottery group from Idugo. This island has a strong tradition of pottery and it is primarily women who have developed this skill and passed it down from one generation to the next. Before the arrival of Zalala Beach Lodge, the craft was gradually going into decline due to lack of resources and access to markets. However, since the Lodge began buying pots of all shapes and sizes, the numbers have grown and the group is flourishing again. responsible traveller 37

Guests have the opportunity of visiting local communities.

Two ‘routes’ are currently been developed: one to Idugo village that can be accessed by canoe from the Lodge and another to Supinho village, which is a short walk from the Lodge. Guests will be given the opportunity to meet local people, to sample local produce (such as fresh coconut milk and traditional sweets), to join in local dances and visit the local school and other points of interest in both villages as well as have the opportunity to by authentic local crafts. The aim is to provide income to guides, local boat drivers and others, to promote a two-way cultural exchange between visitors and the communities, as well as encouraging visitors to get involved with helping to raise funds for various community initiatives supported by the Lodge, such as the schoolbuilding in Supinho and the water project in Idugo.

The provision of employment by the lodge has also increased trade for local businesses and has enabled many people, both men and women, to start up some business initiatives or expand existing ones. The extra income earned in this way has helped many families to pay for school books, medicines, clothes and/or make small improvements to their homes. In 2011, the Lodge financed a one-week business management training course attended by 50 community members. They learnt about market research, stock management and

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other useful business skills. Says Francisca, the local bar and restaurant owner ‘I have applied much of what I learnt and so have others. As a result, my customers are more satisfied and I am earning more profit. And many other local businesses have benefited in the same way’. The Lodge is also committed to training their employees in various aspects including specialist hospitality training; English language training; security guard training and kayak training.

One of the guest activities at Zalala Beach Lodge is kayaking.

Training was offered to existing staff that showed an interest, including the Activities Guide, who accompanies guests on trips to the local community, which is accessed by canoe or kayak. The location of the Lodge at the point where the river meets the sea provides ideal kayaking conditions, both for beginners and more experienced kayakers. A wide range of options are available from a 3-hour round trip to a nearby island with a picnic stop at a beautiful spot where many birds can be seen or a shorter ride to another beach in calm waters sometimes frequented by dolphins attracted by the colours of the kayaks. Another option is going on a guided tour by motorboat or traditional dugout canoe through the Namacurra River mouth channel and mangrove are where flamingos, green-backed heron, open-billed storks and malachite kingfishers can be seen.

The establishment of the Lodge has had a strong impact on the local economy and there have been many ways in which these local communities have benefited

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Visitors to Zalala Beach Lodge will quickly see why they were the winner of the ‘Best practice – Economic Impact’ Imvelo Award for Responsible Tourism in the independent category

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Zambezia province is rich in culture and tradition and each year the province hosts two big cultural events: the Zalala Festival and the Quelimane Carnival. The Zalala Festival takes place around October/November each year, bringing together artists and performers from the surrounding region and attracting thousands of visitors to the beach.

The Quelimane Carnival, held during the period of Lent (February/March) in the historic town of Quelimane, is the most famous carnival in Mozambique and features colourful and glamorous costumes. As well as the beautiful coastline, Zambezia province is home to some of the most stunning mountain landscapes in Mozambique and has more hot springs than any other province. Many of these places can be visited and a range of day outings can be arranged, including visits to the Nhafuba Hot Springs Eco-Retreat and the Mountains of Gurué. South of Zalala, in Sofala province is the Gorongosa National Park, which has recently benefited from a major animal restocking initiative and is home to many animals and birds that once again can be seen roaming the famous Gorongosa plains. Transfers by road (approximately 7 hours) can be arranged to and from Zalala Beach Lodge upon request.

Visitors to Zalala Beach Lodge will quickly see why they were the winner of the ‘Best practice – Economic Impact’ Imvelo Award for Responsible Tourism in the independent category.

Their committed to promoting local employment and investing in their local community is very evident, as is the laid back environment in which to enjoy great accommodation, adventure and the opportunity of interacting in meaningful ways with their local communities.

Essentials Email: reservations@zalalabeach.com www.zalalabeach.com

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Imvelo Awards for

R espon sib le To ur ism The Imvelo Responsible Tourism Awards were initiated to coincide with the World Summit on Sustainable Development that was held in South Africa in 2002.

They recognise tourism and hospitality businesses that make a real, measureable and sustained contribution to responsible tourism.

To be made for the twelfth time this year, they Imvelo Awards have had a huge impact on tourism in Southern Africa, creating significant awareness of environmental management issues in the industry. Imvelo – which means ‘nature’ in South Africa’s Nguni languages encourages industry members to accept voluntary guidelines promoting responsible tourism. The awards are in line with the responsible tourism guidelines for the South African hospitality industry and the UN World Tourism Organisation’s code of ethics.

2012 Winners: Overall Winner: Riverside Sun Resort Best Social Involvement Programme: Sun International Zambia – The Falls Resort Ulusaba Private Game Reserve – Pride’n Purpose Best Practice – Economic Impact: Sun International Zambia – The Falls Resort Best Overall Environmental Management System: Sandton Sun Hotel Intercontinental Johannesburg Sandton Towers Best Single Resource Management Programme: Energy: Riverside Sun Resort Water: Riverside Sun Resort Waste: Vineyard Hotel & Spa Most Empowered Tourism Business: Tsogo Sun Group / White Shark Adventures Investor in People Award: Red Carnation Hotel Collection / Cape Grace Hotel Chairman’s Award: Mavuso Msimang (Rhino Conservation Issue Manager)

Entries are open for the 2013 Imvelo Responsible Tourism Awards www.imveloawards.co.za 42 responsible traveller

The Crowned Crane hide at the Karkloof Conservation Centre

pic - SappiWWF

SappiWWF TreeRoutes Partnership builds on growing eco-tourism trend

Eco-tourism – often defined as low-impact, ecologically and culturally sensitive travel that benefits local communities and host countries – is considered the fastest growing market in the tourism industry. According to the World Tourism Organisation, a specialised United Nations agency, this branch of tourism is growing annually at a rate of 5% and represents 6% of global gross domestic product.

Sappi pre-empted the eco-tourism trend as far back as 1998, when they gave WWF SA a grant of R10 million and set up the SappiWWF TreeRoutes Partnership. The Partnership was based on the understanding that environmentally sensitive areas suited to eco-tourism are often situated in remote parts of South Africa where there is little formal employment and levels of education are low. That means people are sometimes forced to over use natural resources in order to feed themselves, having long-term consequences on the environment.

The aim of the Partnership is to assist local communities in building and promoting eco-tourism projects for the benefit of these communities in order to protect sensitive wetlands and indigenous forests. The grant funding was entrusted to WWF SA, which has in partnership with Sappi been responsible for identifying suitable projects for the Partnership, according to carefully-defined criteria. The on-site development of each project, in turn, was contracted to the Wildlands Conservation Trust. Suitable qualified operators have been appointed for each of the eight projects in KwaZulu-Natal and Mpumalanga. A primary condition of funding is that all projects should be community-based and inclusive, be economically sustainable and be catalysts for further eco-friendly development. Involved communities should benefit in the broadest sense through direct and indirect employment, skills acquisition and training, as well as through the benefits of community ownership and infrastructure.

The SappiWWF TreeRoutes Partnership projects are also in the areas where Sappi has operating units which are home to many unique and engendered species, such as the Karkloof Butterfly, the Blue Swallow, the Green Parrot, three

crane species and the Oribi. In some instances, the land also encompasses rare habitats, such as the Coastal Dune Forests of Maputaland.

The projects incorporate unique eco-tourism destinations that showcase South Africa’s beautiful forests and wetlands, many of which are endangered. The WAKKERSTROOM WETLAND RESERVE, in Mpumalanga was the first SappiWWF TreeRoutes Partnership project and is home one of the largest populations of threatened bird species in South Africa. It is also one of the most important recreational birding destinations in the country, and is currently being considered for World Heritage Site status due to the unique bird species found in the area. These include grassland biome specials such as the Rudd’s Lark, Botha’s Lark, Yellow-breasted Pipit, Blue Korhaan and Southern Bald Ibis. All five South African species of Harrier visit Wakkerstroom at certain times of the year. The critically endangered White-winged Flufftail can also be found in the region.

In KwaZulu-Natal, the DLINZA FOREST AND AERIAL BOARDWALK in Eshowe, which is 100% owned by the local community, was an early example of what the Partnership has achieved with all of its projects.

The 125-metre boardwalk, at an elevation of 10 metres, allows visitors to walk right under the canopy of Dlinza’s indigenous scarp forest and culminates in a 20-metre observation tower with a breath-taking view. The walkway, which is wheelchair friendly, provides intimate access to 65 bird and 85 butterfly species, as well as to small mammals such as red duiker, bush pigs and bush babies. Magnificent trees that can be seen from the boardwalk include the Fluted Milkwood, responsible traveller 43

The ONGONYE FOREST RESERVE, managed by Ezemvelo KZN. in southern Zululand is one of the gems along the Zululand Birding Route, especially due to the presence of the highly localised Green Barbet, Stactolaema olivacea, a highly sought after species by most birders. The forest is also recognised as the number one site in terms of bio diversity conservation in KwaZulu-Natal, home to the endemic Ongoye Red Squirrel; Paraxerus palliates ornatus and numerous special plants and invertebrates. The forest has remained largely underutilised by tourists and until recently only accessible by a 4x4. To add to this, the most common use for the forest reserve is for cattle grazing, collecting medicinal plants, fuel wood and timber for construction of houses and kraals.

The forest is surrounded by a very rural and poor community, many of which use the forest as their main natural resource.

For the forest to be recognised as an asset it is essential that the forest plays a role in the socio-economic development of the people who live around the forest and who are ultimately the most important stakeholders in terms of protecting this wonderful area. The road upgrade alone has provided over 100 jobs which favour single parent families and households without any other income sources. The birders camp is expected to create additional jobs for camp staff and guides. This creates a mechanism where the community are benefiting in a sustainable manner from the forest and will become partners in the forests management rather than unhappy, marginalised neighbours.

Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon at Dlinza Forest and Aerial Boardwalk

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The MARUTSWA FOREST TRAIL AND BOARDWALK is located near Bulwer in the southern Drakensberg region and is home to KwaZulu-Natal mist-belt forest bird species such as the Cape Parrots, Orange Ground-thrush and Green Twinspot.

This project has established a forest interpretive centre, forest trail (wheelchair friendly) and a network of associated viewing decks and towers, supported by extensive interpretive signage. The highest tower will provide visitors with a 12m high panorama view of the forest canopy. The boardwalk, which branches off of the existing trail running through the forest, is built of local timber and supported on poles concreted into the ground. The boardwalk was developed in conjunction with the Bulwer Biosphere committee who manage the trail, as well as train local community members to guide people on this new trail.

The Marutswa Forest Boardwalk is built in one of the few easily-accessible intact scarp forest areas in southern KwaZulu-Natal. This forest type is recognised as being one of the most threatened in the country, so the project will have great ecological significance as well as tourism potential.

With the Marutswa Forest Boardwalk, the SappiWWF TreeRoutes Partnership promotes greater understanding of the biodiversity and conservation status of scarp forests.

This is achieved by controlling access to the forest, training guides from the local community and supporting the overall eco-tourism potential of the Bulwer area. The development process draws on the knowledge and experience gained through community liaison and during the development of the Dlinza Aerial Boardwalk in Eshowe, and the Thonga Beach Lodge and the Mabibi Campsite, in KwaZulu Natal.

Pic Hugh Chittenden / Rockjumper Birding

Giant Umzimbeet and Wild Plum. Bird species include the rare Spotted Ground Thrush and the Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon.

Pic - Rod McLeod

Staff (and shareholders) at Thonga Beach Lodge

Grey Crowned Crane at Karkloof Crane & Conservation Centre

The THONGA BEACH LODGE and MABIBI CAMPSITE was the first tourism concession in the Isimangaliso Wetlands Reserve, a World Heritage Site, and have become benchmarks for the development of private sector/community partnerships in eco-tourism.

The local community, through the Mabibi Community Trust, owns a 68% share in the R6.5 million Thonga Beach Lodge and a 51% share in the campsite. This equity was funded through a R945,000 grant from the SappiWWF TreeRoutes Partnership and loan funding from Ithala Bank.

During the construction of the lodge, all labour was sourced from the Mabibi community and, wherever possible, building materials were procured through local small, medium and micro enterprises. This brought revenue of approximately R1.5 million into the community over the eight-month construction period. Thonga Beach Lodge commenced operations in August 2004 and 30 permanent jobs were created at that time. Within a short twelve months of opening, the lodge and the SappiWWF TreeRoutes Partnership made history when the business declared a dividend to the investment partners – when a net profit of R52,000 accrued to the Mabibi Community Trust.

The SOUTHERN KWAZULU-NATAL BIRDING ROUTE takes visitors from the golden beaches and dense lush forests of

Pic - SappiWWF

Thonga Beach Lodge is a 24-bed luxury lodge tucked into the dune forest right on the beach at Mabibi, just north of Sodwana and it joins other projects in the SappiWWF TreeRoutes Partnership as a significant empowerment exercise that combines conservation ethics with major equity for a local community. The lodge is also the first tourist lodge in the Greater St Lucia Wetlands Reserve World Heritage Site and is adjacent to the more rustic but very popular Mabibi Campsite.

the North and South coasts through the beautiful Lowveld and up to the spectacular heights of the Drakensberg Mountains. These scenic backdrops alone lure travellers into memorable road trips, but a bird list of 500 species including many rare and endemic species such as Blue Swallow, Cape Parrot, Drakensberg Rock-jumper, Eurasian Bittern, all three of Southern Africa’s Crane species and Bearded Vulture make these unforgettable outings for birders.

The KARKLOOF CRANE AND CONSERVATION CENTRE where all three of South Africa’s crane species: the Blue Crane, South Africa’s national bird; the Grey-Crowned Crane and the Wattled Crane can be seen in the Karkloof Valley in the KwaZulu-Natal midlands. The Crane Centre consists of a central interpretive facility, supported by a network of trails leading to two strategically positioned hides. The centre, trails and hides are situated on two private farms owned and operated by leading conservation champions. www.treeroutes.co.za responsible traveller 45

On the hunt...

Safety briefing dealt with and under strict instruction of silence, we headed into the Acacia thicket. My heart was pounding and I felt myself breaking into a sweat which, I’m ashamed to say, could not entirely be attributed to the oppressive heat of the day or the physical exertion. I was quite sure the thumping in my chest was announcing our arrival to our quarry.

Words & Pics – Tessa Buhrmann

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The day started out as most early mornings do at &Beyond Phinda Forest Lodge – an early morning wake-up call followed by steamy aromatic Fair Trade coffee, delicious home-made rusks and a healthy dose of anticipation of what the early morning game drive might yield.

Concerns were soon forgotten as we encountered an African Fish Eagle on a Euphorbia tree and a variety of waterbirds on the edge of a pan, including Spoonbills moving their beaks gracefully from side to side through the water in the hope of a tasty morsel.

But this was no regular game drive, after brief introductions to Grant, senior ranger at Forest, as well as Sipho and Bheki, the specialist black rhino trackers, we were on our way. Grant and Bheki with us in one open game viewing vehicle and Sipho in another… “we have to increase our odds on finding the black rhino” said Grant nonchalantly. My anticipation as well as my nervousness was increasing - it didn’t help that I had seen one of those ‘I shouldn’t be alive’ episodes on TV featuring a rhino incident!

“A lion… there in the grass, no two or maybe three” – all the while Bheki had been scanning the surrounding area with his binoculars, the ever vigilant tracker! Birds forgotten we carefully made our way to where he had seen the lions.

Not three, but six. Three sub-adults leaping and rolling and generally just having fun, two lionesses and a magnificent male lion in snooze mode, he gave us a brief glance then continued to nap. A few slightly smelly bones of a zebra carcass nearby were all that remained of their evening meal. responsible traveller 47

Back on the trail of the rhino, and in constant contact with Sipho, it seemed we were going to be out of luck. But we persisted, checking for tracks and looking out for fresh dung.

And then it rained – not ideal when you’re tracking something as all prior activity is now obliterated. Suddenly the radio came to life, it was Sipho. He had tracks… “meet me on ##### road” he said – no specifics allowed here, the rhino aren’t even mentioned by name on the radio as this may alert potential poachers to their whereabouts. At this point I was beginning to have a greater appreciation of the scarcity of the black rhino as well as the serious implications and threat of rhino poaching in general.

Phinda has been relatively fortunate and has not been victim to the uncontrolled poaching that has affected so many of the other game reserves in KwaZulu-Natal and indeed the whole of South Africa. Much of this can be attributed to their expertly trained guards as well as their good relationship and partnership with surrounding communities. As a result of this partnership and the subsequent ‘joint ownership’ of the rhino, community members are very quick to inform on any untoward activity and unaccounted for visitors in the area thus alerting the security team.

After studying the tracks in the road, Bheki and Sipho headed into the thick grassveld which through their expertise seemed to indicate the direction the rhino had headed. Back in the vehicles we made haste, the rain had gone and in the summer sun was now toasting. After much this way, and that, we came to a stop. Rhino dung. Fresh!

Bheki explained the difference between black and white rhino dung. He proceeded to rub some between his fingers yielding the regularly sized twigs that are evident in black rhino dung – they are browsers after all, feeding on shrubs and small trees, whereas white rhino eat grass. We were thoroughly briefed on safety procedures and what to do in the case we were spotted, or worst case charged. Grant had meanwhile readied his rifle, and chambered a bullet. “Yikes,” I thought to myself “I hope he doesn’t have to use it”.

“You all ok?” he asked, “if any of you feel uneasy, tell me and we’ll turn back now”. Well with that my nerves went crazy, and the reality of walking with rhino struck but there was no way I was turning back and anyway it was too late, we were headed single file and as quietly as possible into the Acacia thicket, Bheki and Sipho up front and the rest of us bringing up the rear.

Ox-peckers had been seen flying overhead so the guys were pretty confident we would find the rhino. A short while later hand signals indicated “stop”… white rhino to the left, not clearly visible but definitely there. Skirting to the right we continued. More hand signals, black rhino ahead under the trees, resting. In absolute silence now, we watched every step we made as the slightest sound could alert them to our presence. I looked around… only short Acacias and bushes, not much use if we needed a quick safety zone.

Earlier, Grant had told us that the best sighting would be one where the rhino were totally unaware that they had been tracked – I sure hoped this was one of those sightings.

From the relative cover of some bushes we were able to get a reasonably good view, a rhino cow with her calf. Such a privilege to be this close, and on foot, to this critically endangered animal, “how could anyone kill such an incredible animal, and just for their horn?” I thought.

48 responsible traveller

Oops, a twig. Up went her head, more hand signals… it was time to get out of there – very quietly! Thankfully we made it out without her being fully aware of what the noise had been.

That was close!

When we returned to our vehicle we found a herd of buffalo about 50 metres away watching us cautiously. Imagine that, two of the big five on foot, well technically you could say three counting both black and white rhino! My nervousness now replaced with excitement and awe, we toasted our success with a Coke and a Crunchie biscuit. Couldn’t think of a better way to end off what was an amazing experience.

Best of all is that all funds received from the rhino tracking experience goes to support the cost of maintaining guys like Sipho and Bheki who put their lives on the line to protect our very precious rhino.

Essentials: &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve www.andbeyond.com

responsible traveller 49

Rhino facts:

Black rhinoceros There are two kinds of rhinoceros in Africa, the black rhino and the white rhino Black rhino (Diceros bicornis)

White rhino (Cleratotherium simum)

Black rhino, also known as hook-lipped rhino, are browsers, using their pointed upper lips like a miniature elephant trunk to twist off low-growing branches of trees and shrubs.

The white rhino, also known as the square-lipped rhino, has a wide mouth. The name of the white rhino is sometimes said to be a corruption of the Dutch word “wijd” but nobody really knows where the names come from.

They are sometimes said to be bad-tempered, but are actually just shy and inquisitive. They will run towards anything unusual in their surroundings, but usually run away if they smell humans. Even so, if a black rhino is encountered in the wild, you should climb the nearest tree or stand very still.

Some individual rhinos are very nervous and a female with a calf will charge anything she considers a potential threat.

• • • •

Rhinos have poor eyesight but a good sense of smell and hearing.

Black rhino grow to 1.6m tall, weigh up to 1 400kg and have two horns.

Black rhino are the fastest kind of rhino with a top speed of 55km/ hour.

They eat woody trees, shrubs and herbs.

The black rhino are critically endangered.

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• • • •

The white rhino grows to 1.8m and weighs over two tons. It is second only to the African elephant in the size of land mammals.

It is a grazer and lives in social groups.

They mainly eat grass and are the most abundant rhino species.

They have two horns.

The story of the southern white rhino is one of the great conservation success stories of the 20th century. A hundred years ago they had been hunted almost to extinction. A small surviving population of about 50 was protected in Imfolozi Park in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. That population grew and the then Natal Parks Board (now Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife) began to translocate animals to other areas where they could breed to form new populations. They are no longer considered critically endangered, although are still regarded as vulnerable.

White rhinoceros Interesting information...

African rhino activities and behaviour • • •

• • •

•

Black rhino adults tend to roam within specific areas, called home ranges or territories.

Mother rhinos protect their calves fiercely.

Rhino are host to many parasites. Black rhino carry a few tick species that are rhino specialists. Ticks are the cause of much of the determined rubbing on posts and stones undertaken by rhino.

Black rhino must drink at least every two to three days.

When succulent plants form a large part of their diet, they can go without drinking for longer.

Black rhino do more of their feeding and drinking during the cool hours of the night than during the day.

Social advertising is important to rhino. They make use of dung piles or middens and scrapes (spray-urination sites). The middens are used by more than one rhino and by both black and white rhino. Males use spray-urination to advertise their presence and mark their range.

Rhino use their horns for self-defence and attacking opponents or predators. White rhino groups stand in a circle facing outwards to form a barricade with calves near the centre.

How to distinguish between black and white rhino in the wild Black rhino are more likely to be solitary and are shyer, keeping to thicker bushy areas. White rhino tend to be in groups. Black rhino have short necks and hooked lips which make browsing branches easier. White rhino have long necks and wide mouths for eating grass.

Source: www.wwf.org.za/act_now/rhino_conservation/rhino_facts/ responsible traveller 51

For the Love of our Rhino The conservation team preparing the rhino for transport

In the first ever private game reserve donation of rhino to another country, luxury experiential travel company &Beyond safely translocated six white rhino from &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa to Botswana’s Okavango Delta in March 2013.

Facilitated in partnership with RHINO FORCE, this conservation coup has been generously funded by lead sponsor, Motorite Administrators.

"In 2012 alone, South Africa lost a devastating 668 rhino to illegal poaching, which is a 49% increase from the previous year’s figure of 448. Botswana has an excellent security system in place to protect these endangered animals and will be a safe haven for the six relocated rhino. Translocations are fundamental to secure the ongoing survival of endangered species and this groundbreaking project led by &Beyond’s experienced conservation team aims to increase Africa’s dwindling rhino populations for future generations to enjoy," says Joss Kent, &Beyond CEO. The Okavango Delta has proven to be a successful rhino relocation habitat and Botswana has a strong security and monitoring framework in place whereby the military helps to protect the species. "It’s the ideal opportunity for us to move our eggs out of one basket," explains &Beyond Conservation Manager, Les Carlisle. “The project has the full support of the Botswana Rhino Management Committee and we are thrilled to be driving such a vital initiative for rhino conservation in partnership with Motorite.”

After years of negotiation and planning, the translocation process has been successful. Game scouts from Botswana have undergone intensive tracking and monitoring training 52 responsible traveller

at &Beyond Phinda. The movement and behaviour of the six rhino will be closely monitored using satellite collars and telemetry and tracking equipment. A portion of this equipment as well as anti-poaching uniforms and binoculars have been supplied by the Chipembere Rhino Foundation.

www.chipembere.org

Being released into the holding boma

All profits from the sale of RHINO FORCE bracelets go to &Beyond’s social development partner, Africa Foundation and are earmarked for projects focused on saving Africa’s rhino populations. The black, red and white beaded bracelets, already synonymous with rhino conservation, are sold in several retailers in South Africa and internationally through an e-commerce site. Visit www.rhinoforce.co.za to support the project or purchase online. Chris Thorpe, Founder of RHINO FORCE says, “We are pleased to know that all the funds we donate or facilitate go directly to translocation, which is an effective way to counteract poaching. We also believe it’s important to involve and educate the communities in this fight, and Africa Foundation does this well.” &Beyond has made a significant contribution to the protection of rhino over the past 22 years. A part of this success can be attributed to their direct involvement with local communities through the Africa Foundation. This project highlights the company’s commitment to its core ethic of Care of the Land, Care of the Wildlife and Care of the People.

To follow the exciting project and ongoing translocation updates, please follow &Beyond on Facebook and Twitter or visit www.andBeyond.com to read Les’s blog, ‘ Carlisle on Conservation’ (www.andBeyond.com/carlisle_on_conservation). www.andBeyond.com www.rhinoforce.co.za www.motorite.co.za

R4,6 MILLION FROM RHINO FORCE TO SAVE RHINOS RHINO FORCE’s red, black and white beaded bracelet remains SA’s best-selling rhino accessory, maintaining unprecedented success in raising awareness and funds for rhino conservation.

In total RHINO FORCE paid R3 050 597.59 to Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) from sales of RHINO FORCE bracelets. This multi-million rand donation, acknowledged in thanks by the EWT, supports the NGO’s rhino programmes.

RHINO FORCE also thanks the EWT for their conservation activities undertaken in security and protection; wildlife trade law compliance; judiciary awareness and strategic support as the bracelet organisation re-directs its efforts to fully support rhino translocation. Relocating rhino to suitable habitats spreads them out over a larger area. Translocation also enables rapid growth rates, and is the reason we have 400 separate populations in 9 African countries today.

have donned the conservation accessory. The continued support from retail, corporate and individuals has raised awareness for the critical threat to our rhino populations.

“We have identified a direct, immediate conservation action that is saving rhino today, through the sale of the beaded bracelet. Monies we raise and facilitate go directly to translocation. We believe it’s important to involve and educate South Africa in this fight,” says Joanne Lapin Thorpe, co-founder of RHINO FORCE. “We look forward to many more translocation projects and saving our rhinos.”

Rhino bracelet sales have raised R400,000 for Africa Foundation, over and above the R3 050 597.59 paid to the EWT. RHINO FORCE also facilitated a whopping R1.1 million from corporate donors, including Motorite Administrators, for the first RHINO FORCE relocation project. The first group of rhino are ready for release in Botswana.

The original RHINO FORCE beaded bracelet, launched in June 2011, is synonymous with rhino conservation, remaining a best-seller. Over 500,000 local and international supporters responsible traveller 53

RHINO HORN TOXIFICATION TO COUNTER POACHING UPSURGE Words - Andrew Parker

Lorinda Hern of the Rhino Rescue Project, who has codeveloped the ectoparasitacide treatment since 2011, measuring the horns for research purposes while Brent Leo-Smith assists.

Toxic infusions are the latest weapon to counter the thriving industry of rhino poaching in the big game areas adjoining South Africa’s Kruger Park. Consumers of the powdered horn in Asia risk becoming seriously ill from ingesting a so-called “medicinal product” which is now contaminated with a non-lethal chemical package. The 49,500 hectare Sabi Sand Wildtuin has launched the country’s first large-scale operation to toxify the horns of its rhinos, together with an indelible pink dye which exposes the illegal contraband on airport scanners worldwide.

Many world famous Big Five game properties on the border of the national park are engaged in a costly struggle against relentless raids on the rhino in the fertile bushveld in the western lowveld of Mpumalanga. The Sabi Sand Wildtuin Association (SSWA ) of property owners this year will spend R6.5m on security operations tointercept and head off the incursions – a budget allocation which has tripled since 2008, when the crisis first came to the fore. These defensive strategies, under taken with the police and SA National Parks (SANParks), are facing predatory gangs heavily armed and highly motivated to meet the insatiable demand in Asian markets for rhino horn. That market is currently paying an estimated $65,000 (R600,000-plus) per kilo for mature horns, which average 4-4.5 kgs in weight when sawn or hacked off close to the skull of the harvested carcass.

The poachers themselves, the starting point of the criminal traffic inside and around the Kruger Park, receive a mere fraction of the R2-2.5m value of each horn from the syndicates that plan the raids and export the material. Yet the size of their pay-offs in the neighbouring low-income communities is ample enough to keep the poachers safe from being identified.

Intelligence is a prime asset in the escalating conflict. For this reason the numbers of rhino located in the area are kept 54 responsible traveller

confidential, as are the numbers lost to date. The national statistics are harrowing enough to the future of wildlife conservation and game tourism. The first spike in the incidence of rhino poaching was in 2008, when 88 animals were lost. This year more than double that number have been butchered in only the first three months. The SSWA’s game-changing toxification campaign is as much about sending a message to the illegal trade worldwide as it is about rendering the rhino horns inside its perimeter both worthless and hazardous as traditional medicine. Andrew Parker, CEO of the SSWA, says that compromising the product is the most effective deterrent to the illegal market. “Sabi Sand is leading this programme because we are located at the epicentre of the problem at the southern end of the Kruger Park, which suffers up to 70% of the rhino killings. Poaching syndicates are here in large numbers and we are vulnerable as a western buffer between them and the Kruger Park.”

Up to 2,000 people are employed in the Sabi Sand reserve, mostly local residents. Information about planned antipoaching operations becomes common knowledge very quickly outside the perimeter fences. The intel is worth tip-off money. Poacher gangs can then blend into the community and enjoy unquestioned access in and out of the Sabi Sand area along the shared local roads. “We are sending a message through the supply chain that rhino horn from Sabi Sand will endanger the health of anyone who uses it as a medicine,” says Parker. “It also raises the stakes against agents smuggling it through airports. When their market dries up we expect the balance of risk against reward will swing back in favour of our own conservation operations.”

Those operations are essentially defensive, counter-measures based on the surveillance of the daily movement of game and its natural predators. Poachers infiltrating the reserve are

spotted and tracked as a matter of course and the information is fed into the communications network shared by the Big Five game lodges and the rest of the Association’s 42 members. The decision to launch the rhino horn infusions was agreed unanimously by the association’s members in February, says Parker, as the poaching threat became aggressive and adroit enough to match the reserve’s combined ranger-watch. “To date, nterventions have focused on bringing additional manpower into the field to counter the problem,” he says. “This has proved effective in terms of arrests but not in stemming the rising body count of rhinos.

Says Andrew Parker, “there is a limitless recruiting pool of poachers inside and outside our borders, and they enjoy a tactical advantage against the counter-measures we’ve employed so far. They dictate the time, the place and the scale of their engagements and they hide in plain sight amongst local communities. Overcoming this present scourge is a fight in which we must prevail. Our strongest available response against poaching is to cripple the business of illegal rhino horn trading before it sabotages our own existing businesses.”

Inserting a toxin into the horns of rhinos is a process which has been used on 100-plus animals in the past 18 months, pioneered by veterinary surgeon Dr Charles van Niekerk at the Rhino and Lion reserve at Kromdraai north-west of Johannesburg. The results have proved to be non-harmful to the rhinos, cost-effective, and an immediate and long-lasting solution for private game reserves which are seen as easy targets for poachers. The only possible danger to rhinos having their horns infused is the stress caused by being immobilised. For this reason, says Andrew Parker, the Sabi Sand treatments are performed outside the hottest part of the day, and the up to two ton animals are brought round as quickly as possible. The toxin-dye injections are administered into the horn’s inert (painless) keratin by compressed air.

Dean Riley-Hawkins drills a hole in the rhino’s back horn for an infusion device like the one already seen in the front horn. Brent Leo-Smith helps hold the tranquilized rhino’s head in place.

The Rhino Rescue Project’s Lorinda Hern explained to the authoritative conservation magazine Scientific American in 2011 that the toxin is a compound of parasiticides which are used to control ticks on farm animals like horses, cattle and sheep. It is also ox-pecker friendly. While the treatment is for the benefit and improved health of the animals, she said, it is toxic to humans. Symptoms of ingesting the drug cocktail – in powdered rhino horn, for example – would include nausea and vomiting. Says Andrew Parker: “We are not aiming to kill the consumers, no matter what we think of them. We want to kill the illegal trade which is preying on our herds. Once the poachers discover that rhino horn from Sabi Sand has no value they will move on. Once the risk/reward balance changes, making incursions against our own very experienced security counter measures will no longer be worth the risk.”

The SSWA has considerable support for its latest initiative.

Devaluing the rhino horns is only one of three phases of its strategy to protect and conserve the Sabi Sand wildlife in the long term. Winning the war means building up and motivating a highly-skilled staff on the ground; developing an excellent intelligence network; and winning the hearts and minds of surrounding communities by involving them more and more in the business of the tourism industry.

Dean Riley-Hawkins and Lorinda Hern of the Rhino Rescue Project, who has co-developed the ectoparasitacide treatment since 2011, are busy collecting DNA from the rhino horn. responsible traveller 55

Cape Town

& the Responsible Tourism Pilot Project

Words - Cllr Grant Pascoe, Mayoral Committee Member: Tourism, Events & Marketing

Cities across the world are moving towards Responsible Tourism. The City of Cape Town with a commitment to its adopted Responsible Tourism Policy and to the monitoring of these practices in the destination, established the Responsible Tourism Pilot Project in September 2011. The project draws to completion in September 2013 and useful results are expected that will guide the practice and commitment of responsible tourism in tourism businesses, the establishing of measuring and monitoring systems for these practices, and the progress of Responsible Tourism application and practice in the destination. The project will inform the longer-term objective of building a Cape Town barometer as well as the requirements for the development of an Responsible Tourism management system for all to measure (self –monitoring) and commit to responsible tourism in the destination.

A decade ago, the City of Cape Town (CoCT) hosted the First International conference on Responsible Tourism (RT) in destinations. Out of this conference came the signing of the Cape Town Declaration and the ratification of the term ‘Responsible Tourism’.

RT is deeply rooted in Cape Town with the global definition and the overarching theme to ‘create better places for people to live and better places to visit’ emerging from this context.

RT is an approach to the management of tourism aimed at maximising economics, social and environmental benefits and minimising cost to destinations.

The distinguishing characteristic of the focus is the responsibility of role players in the tourism sector, and destinations in general, to take action to achieve sustainability.

RT is a best practice approach that makes business sense for both tourism businesses and the destination at large. There is evidence of increased market demand for RT practice in tourism operations and destinations from tourists. Of importance has been the City of Cape Town’s adoption of the RT Policy Framework and an Action Plan. The City has also signed an RT Charter with key tourism associations committing the authority and industry to RT practice. One aspect of implementation with reference to monitoring as set out in the RT Policy, includes indicators within seven Priority Areas (conservation of water resources, energy efficiency, integrated waste management, preferential procurement, enterprise development, skills development and social 56 responsible traveller

development) across the triple bottom line of economic growth, environmental integrity, and social justice.

Through the RT Pilot project, undertaken with + 20 tourism businesses, the City of Cape Town has been investigating the monitoring, application, and commitment to RT practice in the destination. This projects has included has included a cross section of hotels, guest houses, tour operators, shuttles, transport, conference venues, visitor attractions, and others.

Some are well known to be advanced on the RT journey while others are commencing. Participation in the project has included the submission of RT Profile and Policy Statements as a commitment to RT and the pilot process. The reporting has been on a quarterly basis in a RT Improvement Plan (RTIP) template including the RT indicators, targets and baseline data. Participants have been directed to initially submit one indicator across the triple bottom line of economic, environment and social.

Results from the pilot have been continuous albeit slow and where accurate measurements were taken, results showed for the first two quarters of 2012 an average saving of 9.1% water used (kilolitre) per bed-night, 17.5% electricity consumed (kilowatt) hour per bed night and 27.5% in kg waste generated per bed night had been calculated. For the third quarter of 2012 there were savings of 29.3% water used (kilolitre) per bed night, a 35.88% electricity savings (kilowatt-hr) per bed night, a 44.36% reduction kg waste generated per bed night and 31.89% proportion increase in waste recycled.

Staff & management at the Peninsula All-Suite Hotel involved in a beach clean-up

The recycling centre at the Southern Sun Waterfront Cape Town

One of the Vineyard Hotel & Spa’s community projects

Although there have been many practical challenges for the CoCT and the participants of the RT pilot project, there has been a very strong interest in the project from tourism stakeholders and the industry. Much has been learnt from this process and many ideas and challenges have been shared.

Although not monitored and reported on, there are many RT and sustainable initiatives underway in all the businesses of the RT Pilot Project.

Measures have included the following: •

•

•

•

• •

Energy saving technologies such as heat pumps, solar heating panels for geysers, energy saving light fittings, energy saving lighting systems and LED lights, monitoring of lighting and air conditioning, pipe heated water for swimming pools, reduction on towels and linen for laundry Grey water recycling, restrictors on shower and tap valves to conserve water, indigenous gardens, swimming pool covers, provision of showers only, information Waste recycling systems, composters for organic waste, worm farms, plastic, glass and tin recycling, use of tap water as opposed to bottled water Organic cleaning products. Some also use bulk dispensers for shower gels and shampoos to cut down on individually packaged bottles Staff education, training and incentive programmes, schemes benefitting staff domestically at their homes Social initiatives benefitting children, schools, education, urban environments and sport

‘Looking ahead, we will continue to work towards sustainability so that this way of practice and thinking becomes the norm for all in the City of Cape Town including the industry, residents and visitors’.

www.capetown.gov.za

PARTICIPATING TOURISM BUSINESSES AND ESTABLISHMENTS INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING:

Vineyard Hotel and Spa

Winchester mansions

Peninsula All Suite Hotel

Greenways Hotel

Scalabrini Guest House

Boulders Beach Lodge and Restaurant

The Backpack

iKapa Tours

The Green Cab

Table Mountain Aerial Cableway

Two Oceans Aquarium

AWOL Tours

Coffeebeans Routes

ABANG Africa & Travel

Bikes ‘n Wine

Vamos Tour Operator & Cycle Tours

Southern Sun Waterfront Cape Town

TCD Trust

Cape Town International Convention Centre

responsible traveller 57

Local News... Local News...

FTT AND GAUTENG TOURISM AUTHORITY TAKE FURTHER STEPS TOWARDS MAKING DINOKENG A RESPONSIBLE TOURISM DESTINATION Fair Trade Tourism (FTT), has certified its first ever tour in the Dinokeng area. The Refilwe Cultural & Shebeen Tour is operated by Fundani Tours; an owner-managed community tour operator that offers a variety of tours in the Cullinan area and further afield.

On the Refilwe Cultural & Shebeen Tour, visitors will experience everyday life in this vibrant community through close interaction with its inhabitants, a visit to the traditional doctor and a traditional meal at a local shebeen.

This is the third tourism product to be certified by FTT as part of a campaign by Gauteng Tourism Authority (GTA) called “Travel with a Conscience”. This campaign is aimed at positioning Dino keng as a responsible tourism destination.

Dinokeng includes the three hubs of Dinokeng Game Reserve, Roodeplaat Dam and Cullinan.

Says Katarina Mancama, FTT Marketing Manager: “We are very happy to welcome Fundani Tours’ Refilwe Cultural & Shebeen Tour to the Fair Trade Tourism family. This is a truly responsible tourism product that has direct and lasting impact on the community that it operates in. Further, the addition of an activity to the already certified accommodation providers Kwaggas Pride Guest House and Kwalata Game Ranch will make the Fair Trade Tourism footprint of Dinokeng much stronger.”

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Fundani Tours plays a big role in community tourism development, by encouraging tourism entrepreneurship with the aim of creating sustainable jobs for youth, women and people living with disabilities, but also making sure not to lose the authentic community tour experience. Founder and owner - Peterson Mahlangu believes that the biggest asset in the community is the people “the Diamond People” as they are affectionately known. He provides non-financially assistances to tourism entrepreneurs in his community through mentorship programmes where he transfers business and development skills. To date four local community members have been assisted to establish their own tourism businesses and trained to be tour guides.

“My ten year experience in the tourism industry has taught me a lot and helped me to start my company, because I networked extensively with different stakeholders, industry role players. To be FTT certified is a privilege not only for my company but also for my community, because FTT advocate fair wages and working conditions, fair distribution of benefits, ethical business practice, and respect for human rights, culture and the environment. So everybody benefits”Peterson Mahlangu, Founder and owner. www.fairtradetourism.org.za www.meetdinokeng.co.za

Local News... Local News...

V&A WATERFRONT LAUNCHES FREE SELF-GUIDED HISTORICAL WALKING TOUR The V&A Waterfront is steeped in history, and to honour this legacy, it now extends its cultural and heritage offering to visitors with the launch of a Self-Guided Historical Walking tour from early March 2013. The free Self-Guided Walking tour provides interesting facts, anecdotes and archive images of a bygone era, taking visitors on a journey through time that promises to bring history to life. It paints a picture of life in Cape Town from as early as 1652 right through to the bustling trade of the V&A Waterfront today.

‘The original docks, now the site of the V&A Waterfront, were South Africa’s first link with modern industrialisation. We have 22 original historical landmarks that illustrate this rich and fascinating history. The self-guided walking tour will take our local, national and international visitors on an informative and educational journey,’ says Carla White, spokesperson for the V&A Waterfront.

The starting point of the tour is at the V&A Waterfront Information Centre, where visitors may collect their free maps. From here visitors will follow a series of 30 boards in numbered sequence, placed at significant historical points of interest and at heritage landmarks. The V&A Waterfront first launched its guided historical walk in November 2011, which may be booked through the Information Centre. Led by a guide in period costume, the guided tour departs from Chavonne’s Battery at the Clock Tower Precinct. The selfguided historical walk is an additional cultural experience for those who prefer to discover the rich historical background of Cape Town at their own leisure. Walking at a consistent pace, the self-guided tour will take approximately an hour to complete. ‘This tour is a wonderful outdoor activity, leading you around this multi-dimensional destination while offering beautiful views, photographic opportunities and interesting information at the same time,’’ adds White.‘

www.waterfront.co.za

THE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM CERTIFICATION ALLIANCE AFRICA’S NEWLY REVAMPED WEBSITE GOES LIVE The Sustainable Tourism Certification Alliance Africa (the “Alliance”), formerly known as the Sustainable Tourism Network Southern Africa (STNSA), is pleased to announce that their newly revamped website is officially live. With a distinctive African feel to the design, the Alliance website is targeted at stakeholders that are interested in sustainable tourism.

The website also provides useful resources and information on registered members that are interested in sustainable tourism certification throughout Africa. Responsible tourism conscious travellers can now browse the Alliance website for holiday options and choose the tourism businesses that carry a specific endorsement label from the registered certification members listed on the Alliance website.

The Alliance website has improved navigation in the form of drop-down menus and enhanced inter-linking of pages. The website launch also sees the Alliance stepping into the arena of social networking, with integrated feeds to Twitter and Facebook. www.sustainabletourismalliance.co.za responsible traveller 59

Local News... Local News... &BEYOND WINS 2013 TOURISM FOR TOMORROW CONSERVATION AWARD In recognition of its position as a leader in responsible tourism and conservation, luxury experiential travel company &Beyond has been honoured with the Conservation Award at the prestigious 2013 Tourism for Tomorrow Awards. This category is awarded for a direct and tangible contribution to the preservation of nature, including the protection of wildlife, expanding and restoring natural habitat, and supporting biodiversity conservation.

“This award belongs to the nearly 2 000 employees of &Beyond whose passion, commitment, expertise and dedication over 21 years lies behind our every conservation story. Conservation lies at the very heart of our brand and is enshrined in our mission statement,” says Joss Kent, &Beyond CEO. The Tourism for Tomorrow Awards are one of the highest accolades in the global travel and tourism industry, recognising sustainable tourism best practices in travel businesses and destinations worldwide. This year, 133 award applications were received from 46 countries, representing six continents.

Three finalists were selected in each of four categories, with &Beyond scooping the Conservation Award at a prize-giving ceremony held in Abu Dhabi. &Beyond’s submission for the award was based on its pioneering model of low-impact, high-yield wildlife tourism, as well as its efforts to aid in the reversal of local extinctions in wildlife areas throughout Africa and in India. In more than

twenty years of operation the company has notched up an impressive list of conservation firsts. These range from the relocation methodologies that it perfected at &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve to its commitment to the preservation of rhino, including the donation of six white rhino for translocation to Botswana.

Notable successes include &Beyond’s research studies, which have led to changes in South African provincial legislation.

The company’s successful breeding projects, designed to boost the populations of threatened species, include the rare suni and highly endangered Ader’s duiker, which thrive on &Beyond Mnemba Island, situated off the tip of Zanzibar. In partnership with conservation authorities in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, &Beyond has spread its conservations reach beyond Africa, carrying out the first successful relocation of gaur and reversing a local extinction.

“While we are honoured to have been recognised for everything that &Beyond has achieved up to this point, for us this is just the beginning. Our aim is to remain an industry pioneer at the forefront of conservation. We have clear plans for what we want to achieve in the next few years. The success of these projects will continue to reinforce our standing as undisputed leaders in conservation and sustainability, as well as adding to the positive impact we have on the wildlife areas and communities in which we operate” adds Joss Kent. www.andBeyond.com

Les Carlisle (&Beyond conservation manager) in India - the first successful relocation of gaur

60 responsible traveller

Along the Riverside…

A walk through the lush landscaped gardens, across verdant green lawns and into the dappled shade of poplar and weeping willow trees, takes you to the lapping waters on the river’s edge. The Riverside Sun Resort is situated on the banks of the Vaal River, just a few kilometres from Vanderbijlpark and an easy 40 minutes drive form Johannesburg.

After a couple of busy days in central Gauteng, South Africa’s premier business region, it was a treat to follow the unfurling ribbons of tarmac into the countryside – it is this proximity to the city that makes the Riverside Sun Resort an ideal destination for both business and leisure.

Arriving at the hotel, walking through the lobby and turning the revolving door to the gardens is like walking into another world. Images of oasis and escapism enters the mind and fill the soul. The interiors are stylish and tranquil with spectacular views over the hotel’s landscaped gardens and the river. As the overall winner of the 2012 Imvelo Awards for Responsible Tourism, it goes without saying that the Riverside Sun Resort ticks all the boxes from a sustainability, environmental and community point of view.

Evidence of this can be seen by the water-wise entrance garden, recycling bins at the porte-cochere and energy efficient lighting – and this is before you’ve moved past the reception area. Guests can rest assured that every environmental detail has been taken care of by the ever vigilant ‘Green Peas’ team. The hotel’s superb location, its expansive lawns and spectacular setting on the Vaal River makes it an ideal venue for a wedding or other special function as well as for conferencing and teambuilding. responsible traveller 61

Even their conference guests are able to get involved in ‘green’ initiatives, with tree planting opportunities and a number of unique ‘Conferencing with Meaning’ teambuilding options.

As general manager Herman Muller says, ‘the Riverside’s ethos is creating opportunities for, and involving and empowering our communities, and we delight in involving our teams, guests and communities in activities that give back, protect and align with conservation - not only of plants and trees but also utilitities. Our guests support our communities whether through procurement or active engagement’.

These teambuilding activities vary from a Cycle Adventure that sees delegates participate in building bicycles, after which the bicycles are donated to the neediest children in the chosen rural school; a Build it Up challenge where the reward for completing teambuilding challenges is the material required to build a book shelf, toy box etc depending on the age of children at the selected school as well as a Plant a Tree challenge.

Both conference and leisure guests are spoilt for choice with the unrivalled sporting and leisure activities on offer.

These include sundowner cruises on the Vaal River as well as beach-style volley ball. Weekends and school holidays see the Riverside transform form a slickly operated corporate hotel to a welcoming haven for families with jumping castles and a myriad of kids activities, including the River Rascals club.

This is an exciting kids programme for kids aged four to 14, and incorporates nature activities, environmental awareness, creative sessions and visits to the farmyard, complete with a shy bunny and a very cocky rooster. A delight for both adults and children alike is the Wild Cat’s Bistro, set up to fed the feral cats on the property.

Breakfasts are a treat, just make sure you leave yourself enough time to enjoy the extensive buffet and ‘must have’ double 62 responsible traveller

omelette. Fortified for the day, there are a number of activities in the region within an hour’s drive to keep you busy. We opted for visiting the small vibey town of Parys, located within the Vredefort Dome Area, a World Heritage Site. The town is well known for its arts and craft shops, art galleries, antique shops as well as traditional restaurants and coffee shops… the perfect place to enjoy a cappuccino and slice of chocolate cake while taking refuge from an afternoon storm. Other options near Parys are a visit to the Bon-Af berry farm where, between November and April, you can pick berries straight from the bush. Also in the area are three beer breweries and a mampoer distillery!

Closer to the Riverside is the Emfuleni Golf Estate, Emfuleni Day Spa, Vaal Mall (for those who cannot resist a bit of retail therapy) and of course the Vaal River. Birdlife South Africa also recently launched the Vaal Birding Route and Riverside Sun is the perfect place to stay whilst driving to all the birding sites.

The Vaal River offers a number of great birding areas where a range of aquatic species can be found including the Black and Goliath Heron, African Snipe, Whiskered Tern and African Black Duck.

And after a great day out, there’s nothing like coming back to a glass of something icy at the Le Bourbon Bar or from the bar around the Swimming Pool, and then dinner at the Riverside Restaurant before retiring for the night to your well appointed and relaxing room.

Essentials: Tel: +27 16 982 7302 www.tsogosunhotels.com/resorts/riverside-sun www.parys.co.za www.birdingroutes.co.za/gauteng/vaal/

Riverside’s environmental initiatives in a nutshell The Riverside Sun Resort is a proud of their Gold Heritage Rating and continue to show vast improvements in their water and energy consumptions as well as waste recycling.

Being situated on the Vaal River, they have recognised that it is imperative that they manage the impacts they have with regards to water in their natural environment and as such have developed and implemented a rigorous water management policy which includes management and use of water resources. These include actively reducing water usage by the removal of invasive trees; the redesign of some gardens to rockeries; planting more indigenous trees; the replacement of galvanised piping with copper pipes throughout the hotel and the implementation of ‘contractor’s compliance’ for all contractors working on site.

Their commitment to efficient and appropriate energy use across their operations includes the effective management of consumptions through measurement and conservation by incorporating best practice technology available. 85% of all lights on the property now run on energy efficient bulbs, energy efficient equipment is used where possible and high electricity usage appliances such as tumble driers and ovens have been switched to gas. Timers have been installed on the fountains and irrigation to save both electricity and water and storm water drains are marked and sign s erected so as to avoid contamination. Staff awareness and training is something the Resort is committed to which can be seen by the enthusiasm shown by all for their various environmental and community initiatives.

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With over three thousand safari lodges, camps and mobile safari operators in Africa there is a need to differentiate between those that provide an average or bad safari experience and the few who exceed expectations. It is not a question of luxury, but of the ‘safari experience’ from your arrival on a remote airstrip, to the revelation of the wilderness and how it works by your professional safari guide.

Accommodation and cuisine are a vital element to the enjoyment of any safari but the aim is to identify the safari companies that provide the best overall safari experience, regardless of expense. The purpose of The Safari Awards is to recognise excellence amongst the very best safari lodges and operators in Africa. With nominations from over a thousand luxury travel professionals, hundreds of readers of Conde Nast Traveller, Tatler, Brides and Travel Africa Magazine you can rest assured that any safari business nominated for a Safari Award is amongst the best in its genre.

The Safari Awards - Winners 2013 Best Safari Property in Africa – Zarafa Camp Best Safari Property in East Africa – Singita Faru Faru Best Safari Property in Southern Africa – Zarafa Camp Best Beach Safari Property in Africa – North Island Best Ecological Safari Property in Africa – Karen Blixen Camp Best Community Safari Property in Africa – Singita Pamushana Best New Safari Camp in Africa – Lamai Serengeti Best Safari Guiding Team in Africa – Skeleton Coast Safaris Best Safari Spa in Africa – Royal Malewane Best Safari Cuisine in Africa - Singita Lebombo Lodge Best Mobile Safari Operator in Africa – Unchartered Africa Mobile Safari Expeditions Best Riding Safari Operator in Africa – Okavango Horse Safaris Best Safari House in Africa – Chongwe River House Best Safari Accommodation Group in Africa – Great Plains Conservation Best Tourism Board in Africa – Kenya Tourism Board Best Personal Contribution to Safari Tourism – Jake Grieves-Cook (Gamewatchers / Porini Camps) Best Personal Contribution to Wildlife Conservation – Dame Daphne Sheldrick (David Sheldrick Trust); Dr Ian Douglas-Hamilton (Save the Elephants) Best Wildlife Organisation – Tusk Trust For the complete list of winners, runners-up & finalists check out www.safariawards.com 64 responsible traveller

Looking at the list of 2013 winners, it’s no surprise that many of these safari operators are committed to environmental sustainability, community development and conservation.

Responsible tourism is slowly becoming the norm, but to avoid disappointment in this regard, it is always a good idea to ask about the operator’s commitment to sustainability.

A great example is Zarafa Camp, 2013 winner Best Safari Property in Africa and Southern Africa.

ZARAFA CAMP is one of the greenest luxury lodges in Southern Africa and was opened in 2008 by Great Plains Conservation as Zibadianja Camp and later re-named Zarafa. The small and luxurious tented camp is located in the 320,000-acre Selinda Reserve in the north of Botswana with the Okavango Delta in the west and the Linyanti and Kwando rivers and waterways to the east. In spite of its enormous size, the Selionda Reserve has only three small camps with a total of sixteen tented rooms (Zarafa has four) – this is low-impact tourism at its best!

Environment: The environment has been considered right from the planning of Zarafa Camp, and nothing has been spared to ensure its sustainability. All the hardwoods are recycled, and the flooring is made from 100-year-old discarded railway sleepers. The camp’s major achievement, however is that it is entirely solar powered. With all the appliances, sumptuous rooms, and deep freezers that you would expect from a high-end luxury lodge it is difficult to imagine not requiring traditionelectricity – yet all their power requirements are generated from their solar farm. Zarafa’s solar farm has more than 170 solar panels, with electricity generated being stored in long-life batteries, which in turn feed electricity to the camp 24/7. This is not only to the luxurious guest tents but also to the power-hungry back-ofhouse. The lodge’s 4×4 game-drive vehicles are run primarily on recycled cooking oil (largely sourced from waste collected from fast food restaurants in Botswana), thus helping to ensure that Zarafa’s carbon footprint is the lowest possible.

Zarafa proves that sustainable living and luxury tourism can go hand in hand.

Conservation: Selinda Reserve was once used for photographic and hunting safaris, which wildlife numbers plummeting, the gene pool shrinking and the wildlife was skittish and elusive. This all changed in 2005 when Derek and Beverly Joubert, awardwinning filmmakers, partnered with Great Plains and bought the reserve. Hunting was stopped, and the slow process of renewal began.

They created a business model for the Selinda Reserve that was low-volume, high-tariff, high job-creating photographic safari tourism, which had the potential to generate countless more benefits for everyone than the hunting ever did. Best of all, the wildlife seem to sense that Selinda is now a place of peace with numbers having increased dramatically. A recent wildlife census showed some 9000 elephants, huge herds of buffalo and plains game, as well as lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog.

Community: Almost five percent of Zarafa’s turnover gets paid directly and distributed, via the land boards of the region, to the communities that live in the region. That represents about twenty percent of the net profits of the lodge, and is in addition to the substantial lease fees that are paid annually.

The Safari Awards 2014 voting starts soon ‌ 3,000 vetted tour operators, travel agents and travel journalists nominate their favourite safari camps, lodges, houses and mobile operations. 1000s of consumers vote on the nominees. 20 of the top independent operators vote on the finalists. The very best safari operators are revealed at the Safari Awards Ceremony in London, January 2014

Safari Awards 2014 - Get Involved For further information, contact:

Pics - Great Plains Conservation

Rosanne Cobb and Henry Hallward The Safari Awards www.safariawards.com Tel: +44 (0)1865 989280

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A hotel with heart

Guests staying at a luxury Cape Town hotel make a contribution to upliftment in the city and across the continent thanks to the work of the Lalela Project, reports Clifford Roberts. The One&Only Cape Town is among the Mother City’s most luxurious hotels, regularly hosting superstars and heads of state. World-class hospitality is however not the hotel’s only endeavour thanks to a special relationship it has with a Cape-based initiative that works with children, particularly in underprivileged communities.

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Although supporters of the Lalela Project include organisations such as Singita Game Reserves and ESP Afrika, the One&Only Cape Town has a direct link through Andrea Kerzner, board director of brand owner Kerzner International and founder CEO of Lalela Project. In addition, Angie Kerzner is Lalela’s director of product development.

Lalela uses art as an educational tool to address challenges faced especially by youth in communities of severe poverty. A large portion of its work is focused on workshops presented in township schools around Cape Town, but it also tackles issues across Africa too. Through the Nightwatch campaign for example, Lalela collaborates with Malaria No More to educate young learners on preventing malaria infections in communities where the disease is endemic. Since its launch in 2009, Lalela has been involved in countries including Senegal, Congo, Chad, Uganda and Malawi. Thanks to the Kerzner’s influence in the US, the organisation has benefitted from awareness of its work reaching influential organisations and individuals in that country too.

Closer to home, Lalela continues to be very active. Just prior to the 2010 World Cup, it partnered with Iziko South African National Gallery (SANG), artists and musicians to conduct a four-week arts education program and reached over 800 children. Since then, there have been numerous undertakings.

Among them, Lalela teamed up with the Amy Biehl Foundation in working with teenage learners in Manenberg and Nyanga; and, has regularly showcased its work through an association with the Cape Town International Jazz Festival.

Recently, on Freedom Day, artworks made by Lalela children were installed in an exhibit at the One&Only Cape Town. The works were the result of a series of lino-cut and print-making workshops presented by artists Ricky Dyaloyi and Sophie Peters of the Community Arts Project, in conjunction with the SANG. The exhibition itself, entitled the Art of Jazz, took place in recognition of Lalela Project’s partnership with the Cape Town International Jazz Festival.

The One&Only Cape Town further supports Lalela through promoting the organisation to its guests. A nominal, voluntary donation is included in the bill of every guest staying at the hotel. Plans are also afoot to include a stop at a Lalela workshop in the hotel’s popular Cape Peninsula sight-seeing tours.

“We’re working out the details,” says Lalela chief operations officer Cat Rieper. “It’s important for us to encourage meaningful interaction with the children and the project.

“In fact, we encourage families from Cape Town and everywhere to visit us. The people who do come are moved by the experience, every time,” Rieper says.

The heart of the matter Lalela, which in Zulu means “to listen”, is at the heart of what Lalela Project does.

For more information about the organisation, www.lalelaproject.org For details about the One&Only Cape Town, www.capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com

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Tiger fishing on Jozini When you mention tiger fishing in southern Africa, the obvious spots that come to mind are the Zambezi River and Kariba. Little do most people realise that we have a tiger fishing hot-spot right on our doorstep – Lake Jozini, also known as the Pongolapoort Dam, which is located in northern KwaZulu-Natal along the Swaziland border.

There are a number of private lodges, bush camps and camp sites located along the banks of Lake Jozini, all suitable for tiger fishing. But for a totally unique experience, opt for a couple of days on one of the Shayamanzi Houseboats, the first in South Africa. We boarded Shayamanzi 2 from the mooring point at the Jozini Tiger Lodge – a great place to spend the night either before or after your cruise, and set off slowly through the narrow section while Captain Bramson Chihota gave us our safety briefing. We were in good hands as Bramson is an experienced man, with 13 years captaining a houseboat on Kariba and 10 on board Shayamanzi. Throughout the cruise he regaled us with tales of mighty tigers, herds of elephant and the like.

to go; the double pontoon tender boats were waiting, loaded with rods, tackle and bait.

We soaked up the sun and scenery of the surrounding Lebombo Mountains, which is tribal land as we soon realised by the Nguni cattle drinking on the shore, just a reminder that we were indeed in the Zulu Kingdom. By late afternoon we had reached our overnight point, anchoring a good 15 kilometres from where we started. The anticipation had been mounting all afternoon, and the avid fishermen were raring

After more sundowners and a nerve-wracking ‘Super 15’ rugby match (satellite TV is available for those all important sports fixtures), we sat down to a yummy 3-course dinner prepared by our chef, Zakhele Mngomezulu… smoked salmon mousse, lamb chops with roasted seasonal vegetables and malva pudding – just the start of a weekend of great food, great company and great fishing, of course. In addition to

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The Tiger Fish is a ferocious fighting game fish, and are only found in rivers running east, with a minimum temperature of about 26 degrees C, for example, the Congo River up north, the Chobe, Okavango and Zambezi Rivers and the Komatipoort and the Pongola River in South Africa. The Pongola River enters the Jozini Dam in the northern area making this the only and most southern water in South Africa to go tiger fishing. While the fishing enthusiasts were out on the water, the girls enjoyed a G&T or glass of wine from the upper deck watching as the sun slipped over the horizon. ‘Mmmm, tomorrow is another day’.

Words & pics – Tessa Buhrmann responsible traveller 69

fishing, a Shayamanzi experience offers great opportunities for game viewing and bird watching as Jozini borders the Pongola Game Reserve. The area is in fact a birder’s paradise hosting over 350 species of bush birds, raptors and water birds. In addition to the Pied Wagtails that visited us on deck, we saw numerous water-birds on the shoreline Whistling Duck, Spurwing and Egyptian Geese, Commorants, various Herons, including a Goliath Heron, which is quite a ‘big tick’, a Giant Kingfisher, and of course a couple of Fish Eagles. We also had the pleasure of being entertained by a herd of elephant as they enjoyed the fresh greenery of the shoreline, one even heading in for a dip. Some of the other wildlife that may be seen are White and Black Rhino, buffalo, hippo, crocodile, wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, kudu and nyala.

But it’s the Tiger fishing that takes pride of place on Shayamanzi… even for a fair-weather fisher-woman like me. Alan Ndlovu our fishing guide, a local boy who was first introduced to nature and conservation while at school in the area, is my fishing hero. He baited my hooks, cast for me and even struck to make sure the feisty Tiger would not be able to shake off the hook when it broke the surface and leapt out of the water. What he didn’t do though was reel in, so I will happily declare that even I was able to catch a Tiger on Jozini!

Albeit just a 1kg fish. The ‘real’ fishermen do it all themselves, bar the baiting – who would want to do that if someone else is willing to do it?

Our weekend yielded a number of 2kg fish and even two great catches of 3,5kg. Not quite the record for Shayamanzi, which is 6kg, but seeing as it was the end of the season, my delighted hubby wasn’t complaining! Great fight, great catch… what a moment.

Whilst, Shayamanzi may not tick all the boxes from an environmental point of view, what was important to me was the fact that they employ locally where possible; use environmentally friendly detergents, which is of great importance being located on the water but most of all, offer a tiger fishing experience that is easily accessible, only three and a half hours drive from Durban and about five and a half from Jo’burg and not requiring the long, carbon generating, haul that would be required for a fishing trip on Kariba!

Essentials: Tel: +27 34 413 2299 www.shayamanzi.co.za

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Pic - Happy Readers

Anyone can make a difference

Happy Readers is a literacy initiative based in Zimbabwe, but working throughout various regions in Africa. Quite simply their original and innovative books teach African children how to read in English – when English is a foreign language to them. And their books also teach conservation themes, wildlife awareness and community development!

gains a huge amount of goodwill from the community.

Responsible travellers can also play their part in this through helping children to read the books. Children need one-onone time to learn to read properly and a busy teacher in a large class just can’t do this effectively and few parents are able to help with this either.

Happy Readers use animal characters in familiar bush and urban settings so that African children can relate to the stories. “We’ve used these characters to demonstrate real-life scenarios – we have Ronnie Rhino, who is an orphan as, yes, sadly his parents were poached, in another book Whynot the Wild Dog calls her pack to help catch poachers – Wild Dog packs often have an alpha female which is a great role model for young girls” says Emma O’Beirne of Happy Readers.

One of our strongest supporters who immediately understood the link between literacy and education and tourism was Children in the Wilderness in Zimbabwe (CITW). CITW is an outreach program developed by Wilderness Safaris, who work at many levels to educate both communities and their clients. CITW is their environmental program for children in the community. Safari organisations by their very nature are out in the bush and can access far flung communities that others find hard to reach – they also bring a constant stimulus in the form of visitors who can interact with a village, and by doing so, can bring positive change. Wilderness Safaris are keen to bring their clients a complete experience of Africa and that means if you want to see lion or elephant or pangolins, that’s fine – but you can also go behind the scenes. Previously tourists came to Africa and it was a one dimensional experience – look and see! Now it can be look, touch and change!

“As a global nation we are all realising we can make a difference, and one of the best ways to do this is to make a difference in some one else’s life!”

Poaching, snaring and diseases carried from human livestock to game areas are causing decimation of wildlife in many areas.

Many wildlife & safari operators have programmes to support and work with the local communities. The collaboration and commitment of the local communities to the preservation of wildlife is vital to protect the animals. However, many of the communities are very poor and often see little value in the wildlife, other than as a food source! So the safari companies want the community to help protect the wildlife but the community also want to share in the benefits of wildlife tourism. But how to get everyone working together? Enter Happy Readers. “Our work takes us all over Zimbabwe and Zambia, often to far flung areas where donors have funded a Happy Readers project in the rural schools”.

By providing the community with books that will help their children to learn to read so that they can benefit from education and future opportunities in life, a safari company

Sue Goatley of CITW Zimbabwe was well aware of the desperate situation here in schools – few teachers, fewer resources and too many pupils. Many children are leaving school in Zimbabwe unable to read. How can you share information without the ability to read? If a child cannot learn to read, they cannot read to learn. CITW realised that the only way forward was to go backwards and start at the very beginning!

“All of our later stories contain relevant messages for the children, and these messages then get back into the community. We made sure that anyone who could read, could use Happy Readers to teach from – not every teacher responsible traveller 71

is qualified, and not every child goes to school” says Emma.

As an enthusiastic teacher explains “The kids love taking the books home for the weekend and, as these books read like novels, sitting next to their parents while they both read! It’s great to finally have material that is African, something the kids could relate to, stories with African characters doing things they understand.”

How do you fix all that and where to start? Well, CITW started rebuilding the classroom with many of the materials being made by the villagers, they then established a nutritional garden so the kids could help grow food for themselves (which also doubled as a project in agricultural awareness), then once they had a space to learn, the ability to concentrate through improved nourishment, CITW came to us to provide a reading scheme. Jabulani is now a joyful, happy school, and the community around the school is equally uplifted.

Now CITW can also get on with teaching the children about conservation and their environment.

Pic - Olwen Evans Photography

All of this came about through CITW being on the ground and seeing the need. Overseas teachers who came on safari to see wildlife also came and saw village life – some of them returned as volunteers to help train the teachers, other guests came to sit with the children and read, others helped dig new beds for vegetables.

School pic s- Happy Readers

Emma says that in working with CITW they have been able to see how responsible tourism makes a difference, and squares the circle between tourism, community and wildlife. One such success story is in Victoria Falls. CITW started to rebuild a school called Jabulani. Interested guests were taken to see the classroom – a tree in dry, dusty surrounds. Malnourished children were walking four hours to get to a school where the teachers had nothing to teach with.

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Wilderness Safaris offer access to Africa at many, many levels. By funding Children in the Wilderness, their guests are encouraged to share skills with the local communities.

Sometimes guests will ask to volunteer in a program on their next trip, or donate funds for a cause that has touched them. CITW programs are run by local Wilderness staff at their camps, and are designed to educate the children at all levels.

Sometimes it might be conservation awareness, teaching the community through their children why they must preserve their wildlife.

CITW pics - Olwen Evans Photography

Look behind that elephant and you will see a community! An African safari doesn’t have to be a one dimensional look and see trip! One person reading with a bunch of kids in a village school can have the same impact that one teacher struggling to teach 40 children will have in a week. One person who can knit, spending a couple of hours teaching the basics to the mothers, can enable a village to keep themselves warm and potentially produce goods to sell elsewhere creating a moneymaking venture. One person who cares and makes the time to care, can make a difference.

Tourists enrich a community – by bringing their money, sure, but also by using responsible companies who then re-invest in the community.

Essentials: www.happy-readers.com www.childreninthewilderness.com

Kids enjoying a CITW educational experience

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Social Responsibility News...

DURBAN ICC INVESTS IN THE FUTURE The Durban International Convention Centre is investing in the lives of young people through its new internship programme, helping Hospitality Students gain skills, knowledge and firsthand experience of the tourism industry.

The purpose of the internship programme is to integrate the students’ academic studies with relevant work experience in their chosen field. The programme is run in partnership with the Durban University of Technology (DUT) and although the centre has a proud history of empowering students, this is the first year that it has been run in its current format. The sixmonth programme trains students in either the Culinary or Operations departments of the center and rotate every few weeks between areas of responsibility in order to give them a firm grounding in each section. The Durban ICC currently has eight students enrolled in the internship programme which runs from January to June this year. Students benefit through gaining on-the-job training at a five-star level and get to evaluate career options by being exposed to various areas of the Durban ICC’s operations.

The interns studying Catering Management receive intensive training in the centre’s Cook Chill Method, HACCP regulations and ISO standards. Interns rotate through each of the kitchens namely, the Hot Kitchen, Cold Kitchen and Pastry Kitchen and spend an average of 6 weeks in each so as to ensure sufficient exposure to what is required in each kitchen.

These interns also receive training in back-of-house areas like Store Keeping and Buffet Set-ups as well as front-of-house areas as they experience working at reception and in the ICC’s Baobab Café. The six-month schedule allows the students to be exposed to a wide variety of training areas and still spend enough time specializing in their respective field of study.

“The Durban ICC believes strongly in investing in the future of the country’s tourism industry and we have shown our support over the years via our partnership with DUT. Imparting these skills to promising young students is one of the ways we can give back to the industry” said Julie-May Ellingson, the Durban ICC’s Chief Executive Officer. “Overall our interns are positive, motivated and proactive individuals who are always willing to go the extra mile. We have seen these interns really thrive in the work environment and the wide exposure they given during their time at the Durban ICC definitely enhances their career prospects upon graduating”, added Ellingson.

Njabulo Gumede, a Hospitality Management intern, commented, “I have learnt a lot and have been pleasantly surprised by the helpfulness of the staff at the ICC. I was particularly fascinated to learn all the intricacies of an exhibition set-up, from the marking out of the stands and aisles in the venue right through to the health and safety requirements for a successful event.” Besides his scheduled areas for training, Gumede made a request to work with the Technical team during the recent BRICS Summit and was given the opportunity to assist with the stage, lighting and IT arrangements. Subsequently he is now considering a career in this field, combining his love for technology and hospitality.

By the time he completes his internship he will have also undergone full training in Food and Beverage Service and Section Leader Training.

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Intern Theolan Govender Thinabhakho Ntshangase & Fezeka Ndlovu assisting with the Tourism Indaba setup

Social Responsibility News...

Nompulelo Khubeka, a Catering Management intern noted, “The training has been informative and I have gained a great deal of experience and a number of new skills. It’s great to see our Catering Operations theory about HACCP regulations and ISO standards being put into practice on such a large scale. Before coming to the ICC I had never been involved in functions for over 2000 guests. It has also been an honour to cook for celebrities at functions like the Metro FM awards.”

“During their time in the programme, the interns form part of the team and, although they are supervised, they are expected to perform at the same level as the rest of the staff.

They are often paired-up with an experienced member of staff to complete the various tasks and ensure that our standards are always upheld.” commented Johannes Basi, Operations Manager at the Durban ICC who oversees the students’ development through the programme.

The DUT selects students for the programme based on their academic performance and in line with the criteria specified by each department of the Durban ICC. The shortlisted students are then interviewed by the centre’s Management Team and the successful candidates are engaged in line with the company’s recruitment process. Given the positive response from the students to the new programme, the ICC will look to increase the number of interns appointed and is also considering expanding this programme to include

students from the Production and Technical disciplines. The Durban ICC encourages prospective students to perform to the best of their academic abilities in order to be eligible for selection in future enrollments.

“The programme is an excellent opportunity to be part of a challenging and professional environment where realworld skills can be learnt and developed at a world-class standard. Programs like this contribute to the sustainability of South Africa’s tourism industry by providing opportunities for young people to acquire these skills which are so badly needed at this time in our country” added Ellingson. “We are also looking forward to hosting the upcoming 18th WACE World Conference on Co-operative and Work-Integrated Education from the 24 - 27 June 2013 at the Durban ICC and will be listening closely for how we, as a company, can ensure our intern programme is of the highest standard and relevant to the needs of the industry.” added Ellingson.

WACE is the international organisation is dedicated to developing, and advocating for cooperative and workintegrated education programs within industry and educational institutions. The international conference is being organized in collaboration with the DUT and South African Association for Cooperative Education (SASCE). www.icc.co.za Intern Nokwanda Ndlela

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Wild Asia

Responsible Tourism Awards

The 2013 Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Awards is currently accepting applications from any Asia based accommodation provider or tour operator committed to sustainability. Businesses have until the 23rd May to submit their application, free of charge, for their chance to receive international recognition for making a difference in their destinations. After applications have been submitted from accommodation providers and tour operators committed to sustainability from all corners of Asia, the first roung of judging will begin.

Now in its seventh year, the Awards have six categories up for grabs this year. Finalists, who have impressed the panel of prestigious expert judges in the field of responsible tourism, will be revealed at the end of June. These businesses will then undergo a further round of rigorous judging and Winners will receive their international recognition for making a difference in their destinations, in October.

Each year, the Awards are celebrated at Asia’s biggest businessto-business travel trade show, ITB Asia. In 2012 hundreds of delegates were inspired by six exceptional winners who were revealed at the signature event. Wild Asia’s judging team had their work cut out to pick from an exceptionally high level of Applicants in the 2012 Awards. Entries flooded in from India, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Malaysia, Indonesia, Philippines and Thailand.

2012 Winners: Best in Community Engagement and Development WINNER: Soria Moria Boutique Hotel, Cambodia This award recognizes exceptional commitment to supporting the local community and economy in which the business operates. As the first employee-owned hotel in Cambodia, Soria Moria works closely with various local charities and organizations on a grassroots level, and facilitates vocational training and a higher education program to empower locals.

Best in Cultural Preservation WINNER: Agri Tourism, India This award recognizes engagement and efforts by tourism businesses in preserving, enhancing and promoting local cultures and heritage. Agri Tourism is successfully reconnecting urban Indians to their rural roots. Their mission to diversify farms by introducing tourism is benefitting local livelihoods and keeping farming heritage alive. By providing exciting opportunities for sustainable secondary income, this project is preventing urban migration and protecting traditional village life.

Best in Protection of Natural Areas and/or Wildlife Conservation

Soria Moria Boutique Hotel, CAMBODIA

WINNER: Scuba Junkie, Malaysia This award recognizes tourism businesses’ consideration of their local environment and biodiversity by actively supporting and protecting their natural assets. Scuba Junkie, based on Mabul Island off the east coast of Sabah, the company strives to be sensitive and have a positive effect on this unique

ITC Sonar, INDIA

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Scuba Junkie, MALAYSIA - Beach clean-up

area. Introducing the first rubbish collection scheme on the island, they’re improving waste management and protecting their natural assets. They also run a Turtle Hatchery and are championing the Semporna Shark Sanctuary, in order to help save our seas.

Loola Adventure Resort, INDONESIA

Best in Resource Efficiency WINNER: ITC Sonar, India This award recognizes excellence in waste, water and energy management and sustainable architectural design in order to minimize the business’s environmental impact.

Backed by a huge range of environmental management accreditations, 5 star ITC Sonar is a leading light in renewable energy and resource efficiency. It is nestled amidst acres of land, resplendent with greenery, sunshine, and water. It was the first hotel in the world to earn carbon credits under the carbon trading scheme.

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http://tourism.wildasia.org/responsible-tourismawards/2013-awards/>

2012 Most Inspiring Responsible Tourism Operator WINNER: LooLa Adventure Resort, Indonesia This award recognizes the tourism business that excels in all of the above categories by taking into consideration all the key principles of responsible tourism (maximum positive impacts to the local community and minimum negative impacts to the environment) and awards innovation for this most inspiring responsible tourism business of the year. LooLa is an outdoorenthusiast resort in Bintan, Indonesia. Since 2000, with a 100% local team, they offer exciting (eco) action, adventure and community-based activities, all in a natural beautiful setting that favours sea breeze over air-con. Guests are asked to go easy on water and electricity, return to the basic joys of life and enjoy the authentic local scene. responsible traveller 77

Bustling Bangkok a riot of colour, texture & culture Bangkok, the capital of Thailand and home to more than eleven million people – city packed to capacity with both people and cars, one that can easily be dismissed by the ‘eco’ traveller as a no-go. Yet look beneath the traffic, exhaust fumes and high rise buildings and you will find a city that intrigues and delights, a city rich in cultural experiences and ablaze with colour and texture as well as some delightful green oases.

Bangkok dates at least to the early fifteenth century, when it was a small trading post on the banks of the Chao Phraya River.

Now it functions as Thailand’s cultural, political, commercial and diplomatic centre. It is one of Asia’s most cosmopolitan cities with magnificent temples and palaces, authentic canals, busy markets and a vibrant, if not somewhat risqué, nightlife that has something for everyone. Bangkok is also home to numerous ethnic groups and communities, and best way to experience these is on foot or by bicycle. There are a number of operators that offer walking and cycling tours of the city, or grab a map, hop on the public transport and you’re good to go.

The BTS Skytrain whisks you through the city with great ease. It’s fast, clean and highly efficient. The pollution spewing tuk-tuks are great for the experience or short trips but not necessarily the most cost effective, and definitely not ‘green’ – if possible rather go the shared taxi route. Another ‘must do’ mode of transport is a water taxi on the Chao Phraya River and its many waterways. The Chao Phraya is a major transportation artery for a vast network of river buses, cross-river ferries and water Street food in Chinatown

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taxis, also known as long-tails. On both sides of River there are many magnificent temples and architectural buildings including the First Presbyterian Church, the Royal Thai Navy Dockyard, the Old Customs House, the Royal Boat House as well as the Grand Palace. Often motorised by old motor-bike engines, the long-tails, sitting low in the murky river quickly take you out of the rush of the city into a place where things seem calmer and less hectic. To the Bangkok Klongs, where amidst the muddy and often polluted water you glide past old bridges and crooked houses, floating markets and elaborate temples. Old men sitting contemplating the day, industrious women selling their wares… something from a different life, a different time.

Back on land, its time to explore... Bangkok’s Yaowaraj Chinatown is colourful and captivating, a maze of narrow lanes and bustling streets, each one lined with shops selling everything from gold jewellery to Chinese medicine, religious trinkets to nuts and bolts; street-side stalls laden with fruit, vegetables and an assortment of Chinese delicacies. It both assaults your senses and inspires at the same time a vibrant

The streets of Bangkok are a riot of colour, texture and culture, with its street markets, flower sellers, food hawkers and an assortment of transport – all vying for your attention, simultaneously delighting and assaulting your senses

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and energetic place. Just west of Chinatown is Little India.

Pahurat Road is well known for its wide range of textiles.

Besides textiles, many of these shops sell Indian CD’s and DVD’s as well as religious statues and pictures, bracelets, trinkets and leather sandals. Fabric fundi’s will want to explore the area behind Pahurat Road, the Pahurat textile market, a labyrinth of narrow lanes, some barely wide enough to pass through, bursting to the seams with fabric – from delicate silks to robust cotton, luxurious lace and even cashmere.

Colour and texture abounds.

Also close to Chinatown is the Pak Khlong Flower Market, the biggest fresh flower market in the city where flower traders from all over Thailand convene at the early hours of each morning to unload their freshly cut blossoms in bulk. A kaleidoscope of bright vibrant colours mixed with an exotic blend of fragrant blooms. Paper-swathed lilies, orchids and roses sit side-by-side whilst mounds of greenery and other exotics await their fate. Chrysanthemum garlands and traditional Thai Puang Malai’s, made from brightly coloured orchids and aromatic jasmine flowers. The flower market is a delightful place for photographers with unexpected ‘scenes’ around every corner.

Bustling traffic in Chinatown

Pak Khlong Flower Market

There are many diverse community groups living and working in Bangkok, each identified by their ethnic groups and many descendent from early immigrants or by the trades and professions that have been handed down through generations. There is the Thai-Vietnamese community known as Little Saigon, a Japanese community near Soi Phrom Phlong as well as Arab and North African communities to mention just a few. Some of the communities well known for their trades are the alms bowl makers in Boriphat Road and the wood craftsmen in the Bang Sue district. There are the Khon mask makers of the Saphan Mai community, the Thai bronzeware makers in Baan Bu and the Ban Laos community of bamboo flute makers.

Slightly further afield is Koh Kret, a small island in the Chao Phraya River in Nonthaburi, offers a step back in time. A visit to the pottery village is a must. It is located along a pathway around the island, and visitors are able to see the pottery making process. Villagers make an assortment of earthenware products for daily use and this is the oldest and biggest source of earthenware in the Nonthaburi Province. A visit to the Ancient Mon Pottery Centre offers the opportunity of seeing an assortment of pottery in various styles. The Mons is an ancient civilisation, with its roots in Burma, dates back to the 16th century when King Naresuan granted them refuge in Thailand where they settled along the Chao Phraya River.

They have lived elsewhere in Bangkok, but it is here in Koh Kret that they have become famous for their pottery.

Floating markets are another traditional way of Thai life, preserving the way things were when communities lived near rivers and canals, which provided the means of transport and trade of their agricultural produce. There are a number of floating markets operational in Bangkok, including the Taling Chan floating market and the Bang Namphueng floating market. The latter being the least touristy with many shops, food stalls and dining areas, it even has a coffee area displaying vintage items.

Thai Puang Malai’s

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The existence of so many different Bangkok communities reflects the gentleness, openness and tolerance the Thai people have held dear over the centuries. This has resulted in the rich cultural diversity so prevalent today.

Thai etiquette tips for visiting the land of smiles Thai culture is deeply rooted in historical and religious customs and before setting foot in Thailand, tourists should understand its unique social and cultural etiquette.

Thai people are known for their warm hospitality, kindhearted nature and smiles, always happy to make travellers feel welcome, but to get the most out of a visit to Thailand (or to anywhere for that matter) it is good for travellers to understand the dos and don’ts of their culture.

The word Sawasdee is a general greeting that can be used any time of the day to say hello or goodbye. This is followed by a wai gesture, which is done by pressing the palms together at chest level with the fingertips at the chin, and bowing the head. Shorts or tank tops should not be worn in temples and shoes must be removed before entering.

Using feet to point at anyone or anything is frowned upon and Westerners should also ensure that their feet are not accidentally pointed at anyone when they’re sitting down. Do not use a foot to point out anything, or worse, touch someone. Never step over someone’s legs or feet in a bus, rather wait for them to move. And never touch a respected statue, image or Thai person’s head, as it is considered sacred.

When visiting a restaurant or home for dinner, check if the host is wearing shoes. If not, guests should remove their shoes before entering. Sometimes traditional eateries will offer visitors a fork and spoon. The spoon is held in the right hand and the fork is used to guide food onto the spoon in the left.

In Thailand it is vital to show respect for the monarchy.

The king is held in esteem and Thai people expect tourists visiting their country to show the same respect.

Pic - The Sampran Riverside

Thai customs and etiquette might be overwhelming, but Thai people are warm, welcoming and usually very helpful in showing foreigners how they should behave at different places. However, it’s always helpful to understand some of the basic rules before visiting a country to truly embrace its culture.

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Bangkok by night

Where to stay in Bangkok... & beyond The luxurious JW MARRIOTT HOTEL BANGKOK is situated on the fashionable Sukhumvit Road, and offers guests a fantastic central location close to business and entertainment. This business hotel in Bangkok hotel features on-site dining locations offering cuisine ranging from international to Thai & Chinese and boasts quick access to the city’s top dining, shopping, entertainment & attractions. In addition this establishment is a certified Green Globe member.

Pic - Marriott Hotels & Resorts

Also in Bangkok and set on the banks of the grand Chao Phraya River, is ANANTARA BANGKOK RIVERSIDE RESORT & SPA. It is a thriving oasis with majestic palms swaying in the sultry breeze. Spa treatments hidden within lush tropical gardens, luxurious suites lit by the twinkle of the city skyline and delectable meals fusing tastes from around the globe.

Situated on 11 riverside acres of verdant gardens, this Green Globe member seamlessly blends the thrill of urban living with the serene charms of tropical luxury. Imparted with Thai tradition and legendary Anantara service, this exotic Bangkok resort offers a respite from the hustle and bustle of the busy metropolis.

Sampran Riverside

Located only an hour away from bustling Bangkok is the SAMPRAN RIVERSIDE (formerly known as Rose Garden Riverside), a family-run property where visitors can experience authentic the Thai way of life. For decades it has been considered one of Bangkok’s favourite attractions because of the obvious dedication to preserving Thailand’s natural and cultural heritage by engaging with the local community. It all began in 1962, when one family cultivated roses to supply them to Bangkok flower markets and their garden of blossoming roses attracted visitors who then referred to the place as ‘Suan Sampran’ or ‘the Rose Garden’.

Since then, with the family’s unique vision and under the care of three generations, Sampran Riverside has grown gradually to a 70-acre riverside property that is more like a community rather than a ‘typical’ resort.

Pic - The Sampran Riverside

Their unique Thai Village within the property is where most daily activities take place that showcase aspects of Thai tradition and culture. Every morning from 10:00hrs to 12:00hrs, guests can take part in over ten arts and crafts workshops dotted around the village. Visitors are free to roam around and try out these activities, each one in their own pavilion stations such as traditional weaving, rice farming, bamboo dancing, Thai martial arts, garland making, traditional pottery, traditional Thai kitchen, umbrella painting, Thai herbal compress making and much more. Trained staff are available at each station to demonstrate the activity and provide information to enable to obtain a full hands on experience.

Across the other side of the Ta-Chine river is their 10-acre organic farm where vegetables, herbs and fruits are grown.

Visitors can take a short traditional boat ride to visit the farm to sample fresh organic vegetables and fruits in season, try their homemade herbal teas and experience the livelihood of Thai 82 responsible traveller

The Organic Farm Pics - The Sampran Riverside

Silk weaving at the traditional Thai Village

farmers. They could also bring back some of the homegrown vegetables and herbs for a cooking class or for making herbal product for spa treatment.

The Organic Farm project is in collaboration with the experienced local farmers of Nakhon Pathom who would like to either continue or return back to traditional agriculture practices and come together with the common goal to promote and create awareness on organic farming methods.

This was another major step taken towards responsible tourism.

In the early years Sampran Riverside built itself on the primary principle of community based tourism which has strengthened over the years. The property further expanded itself under the foundations of being green and organic by eliminating the use of chemicals and replacing them with bio-degradable natural products to maintain cleanliness and adopting natural methods to care for its gardens.

Sampran Riverside’s philosophy of sustainable tourism is to preserve everything the way they should be. They believe that traditional and natural are ways for a sustainable future.

Thus, their support for sustainable tourism is to go back to their roots of traditional Thai way of life – something that they have been practising for the last 50 years. responsible traveller 83

Perched high up on the hills on Thailand’s border overlooking Myanmar and Lao, ANANTARA GOLDEN TRIANGLE RESORT & SPA has implemented and integrated sustainable practices into the resort’s operations and have been awarded Green Globe certification.

The Resort is perfectly located to provide travellers with an introduction to some of the world’s most pristine rainforests, as well as the great ethnic diversity of the region. In addition they are a proud sponsor of the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation and encourage guests to visit and support its activities in preserving the wellbeing of these iconic animals.

Anantara Golden Triangle Resort & Spa offers guests a number of experiences, including the wonder of riding an elephant through bamboo jungle, the rush of a long-tail boat ride up the Mekong River, sublime spa experiences as well as interactions with local communities ( e.g. immerse yourself in the local culture with the on-site elephant camp, or learn to create authentic Lanna cuisine at the cooking school).

Enjoy breathtaking vistas from the beautifully finished rooms and suites as you watch elephants browsing in the distance and the sound of birdsong playing over the Mekong and Ruak rivers. Anantara Golden Triangle décor features Thai textiles, teak furnishings and artwork from local cultures.

Explore three countries including hill-tribe villages, the Hall of Opium museum and the ancient capital of the Lanna Kingdom, Chiang Saen. Or simply wind down at the worldrenowned Anantara Spa. 84 responsible traveller

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The SIX SENSES EVASON HUA HIN RESORT & SPA is located at Pranburi, a short 25-minute drive south of Hua Hin town, which is 230-kilometres southwest of Bangkok.

The resort a beautiful place with tropical gardens, lotus ponds and waterways, and its guest rooms are fresh and unconventional. This resort offers a laid-back beach environment that has a strong ethos of both social and environmental sustainability with policies in place and practices that promote sustainable waste management, reduce energy use, encourage sustainable purchasing, and minimise carbon emissions.

From its very beginnings in 1996, Six Senses has been committed to sustainability, the environment, and the community. Through careful consideration of the effects that operating systems, materials, and purchasing policies have on the environment, they are continually developing new initiatives and procedures to minimise their ecological impact. Six Senses remains at the leading edge of sustainable tourism best practices, and these include environmental performance, support for the preservation of natural and cultural heritage, and the enhancing of social and economic benefits to local communities.

The Six Senses commitment to sustainability addresses the carbon emissions resulting from guest travel and their operations, and invites guests to share the responsibility to offset that footprint. There are programmes in place to conserve energy, re-use water for secondary applications and to re-cycle waste materials produced. Responsible purchasing means that only eco-friendly chemicals are procured for use in the operations, while food and beverage products should be produced locally, and wherever possible, packaging be kept to an absolute minimum, be re-usable or recycled. Being located in a place of great beauty and close to nature, the resort has biodiversity opportunities to preserve, protect and rebuild environments.

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