October 2018 issue

TEXTILE

VALUE CHAIN

www.textilevaluechain.com

OCTOBER 2018

Volume 6

Issue 10

v Weaving Special Issue Part- I

S

v ITMA + CITME 2018 Innovations v Brand Focus – A.T.E v Interview – J P MODATEX v Market Report : Yarn, Fabric, Surat v Sustainable Fibre : Biophyl Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages96

YEARS

India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of

Torrey Twister

GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS

RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLES

SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS

MR.SURESH SARAF

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Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com

46

Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 www.textilevaluechain.com

March 2018

Media Partner

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Fully-compacted yarns economically produced Compact Spinning Machine K 42 The K 42 compact spinning machine with up to 1 824 spindles sets standards in quality and economy. The well-conceived machine q-r.to/baq512

concept fecilitate significantly lower energy and maintenance costs compared to any other compacting systems.

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Shanghai,China. 21-25 October 2016

Welcome you to Rieter’s booth: Hall 1 Stand D 01

Trained more than 1600 Industrialists and Traders till March 2018

Marketed by:

T: +91-22-6676 6100 E: fabricforming@ateindia.com W: www.ategroup.com CIN: U51503MH2001PTC132921

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A.T.E. ENTERPRISES PRIVATE LIMITED

MORI MORI SPINNING PRIVATE LIMITED Mori Spinning private Limited produce and supply high-quality cotton yarn produced from the best and precise quality of the cotton around the world. Constant commitment to high quality standards and innovation has been the secret of success ever since the company was founded. We target to deliver not only the best quality of the cotton yarn but also the relentless services to our consumers that will meet their satisfaction. We believe in creating the value for our product in the mind of the consumers.

We manufacture OE yarns count range from 6s to 24s with the production capacity of 20 Metric tons per day.

Here's the list of latest machineries; SR

MACHINE / PROCESS

MAKE & MODEL

1

BLOW ROOM

TRUTEZSCHLER WITH BLENDOMATE, PRE –CLEANER, MULTI-MIXER, CLEANOMAT , DUSTEX

2

CONTAMINATION CLEARER

PREMIER IQUBE

3 4 5

METAL & FIRE DETECTION CARD DRAW FRAME

LAKSHMI GRECON TRUTEZSCHLER TC 10 TRUTEZSCHLER TD 7 AND TD 8

6

OPEN END

SCHLAFHORST AUTOCORO 9 (552 ROTORS / MC.) WITH WAXING DEVICE, COROLAB SQ YARN CLEARER.

7

YARN CONDITIONING

SIEGER YARN CONDITIONING PLANT.

8

H-PLANT & WASTE COLLECTION

LUWA

QUALITY ASSURANCE In order to continually improve performance of our company, while offering our customers quality, cost effective and innovative products, we have adopted latest machinery from USTER to come up with innovative products meeting the needs of our customers. ¦

PREMIER evenness tester

¦

HVI Cotton Testing Mark MAG

¦

COROLAB Yarn Clearer

¦

Yarn Strength & CV Tester MAG Make

¦

CONTAMINATION CLEARER PREMIER IQUBE Make

As per the prede ned set of guidelines by our experts in laboratory, we believe that the quality control exercise starts right from the selection of raw material where each bale of cotton tested carefully based upon its parameters.

Moreover, our end products are best in the market because we have adopted 100 % bale management.

On everyday basis, we test yarn at the sliver stage and nal test to be conducted during the packaged cone stage in each count.

A: Survey No. 297/3/P1/P1, Village: Barpatodi, Near Rajula-Una Chaarnala, Taluka: Rajula, District: Amreli - 365560 Gujarat (INDIA) M: +91 9909928080 / +91 9909982380 E: info@morispinning.com | rajnimori@yahoo.com | moribharatraj@yahoo.co.in

Value-added flushing and cleaning oils for knitting machines.

As the producer or administrator of knitting machines, the major challenge that you confront nowadays is to function the knitting machines financially and dependably while guaranteeing that the material delivered is of atmost quality.

Klüber Silvertex R 14 Plus, our flushing and cleaning oils guarantee that the stitchforming components work under more cleaner environments ensuring better efficiency for the machine and better life for the stitch forming components.

Your benefits: – Especially formulated for the flushing and cleaning of stitch-forming elements in knitting machines – Gives higher machine life due to cleaner operation of stitch elements – Reduces oil stains on fabrics due to cleaner operations of stitch elements.

Bringing German technology closer to you.

Klüber Lubrication Tel: +91 80 6690 1200/marketing@in.klueber.com www.klueber.com

your global specialist

DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore March 2018

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51

• Hosiery • Weaving • Denim

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Chief Editor Marketing Executive Graphic Designer

: : : :

Ms. Jigna Shah Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Ms. Nishi Patel Mr. Anant A. Jogale

INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda Mr. Manohar Samuel Mr. Shailendra Pandey Mr. Ajay Sharma Mr. Avinash Mayekar Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Mr. R.D. Udeshi

: : : : : :

City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Consulting Editor Business Head (DYES), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. : President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd.

EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor : Dr. Ela Dedhia : Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Mr. R.M. Shankar :

HOD knitting, SASMIRA Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Professor, Dean ICT Asst. Director, ATIRA

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher.

Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher.

Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075.

Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

CONTENT

October 2018 Event Update 66- TMMA 69- ASSOCON 2018 70- TAI Brand Focus 72- A.T.E.

Cover Story 21-Present Market Situation For Domestic And Exports Market By S.Hari Shankar 24-Weaving Technology Changing The Weaving Industry In India By Avinash Mayekar 25-Noise Pollution And Its Control In A Weaving Plant

By Dr. M K Talukdar 30-Critical Constraints And Required Inter¬ventions In Weaving Industry Of Punjab By Prerna Kapila 33-Stop Marks, Starting Marks And Setting Shed In Weaving By Dario Paredes Vásquez 38-Problems In Weaving Industry At Bhiwandi, Maharashtra, India.

39-Different Types Of Fabric Defects 43 -Global Textile Machinery Market In-Depth Research And Anal¬ysis Report For Forecast 2018-2023 43-GIST Of Letters From Umargam Industries Asso¬ciation To The Government Market Report 44 – YARN REPORT 45- FABRIC REPORT 48- Yarn & Fabric Price And Textile Business Migration

By Ketan Thakor Bhatt 50 - Surat Report

52 - Sustainable Fiber 54- Machinery Maintenance Audit

55 – Economy Update 58- ITMA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION LRT, RIETER, ITEMA, PICANOL, SAURER, LOEPFE, STAUBLI, DORNIER, DILO, COLORJET, TMAS

October 2018

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News 49 - Duty-Free Access To China 73- Dystar 74- Vardhman Partner With RIL 75-Tukatech 76- export demand brings relief to domestic cotton spinners 77- IITExpo 77- Attirebin

78- Show Calendar

79- INTERVIEW- J P MODATEX

Advertiser Index Back Page RAYMOND 13 ATE Back Inside LIVA 14 Mori Spinning

82 CITI

Front inside RAYSIL

15 Kluber Lubricant

3 Prashant Group

84 Key Tex Accessories

16 Natural TexYarn

4 Sanjay Plastic

85 Century Ink

17 DN Associates

5 SGS Innovations

86 DTG

18 Rudra Cottex

6 SKBS

87 US Aqua

23 Patidar Cotspin

7 LRT

88 SITEX

32 Textest Instruments

8 YARN EXPO 2019

51 Tomsic

89 Gokulanand

9 SIYARAM

57 Koisokki

10 GTTES 2019

65 Kenny Fabric

11 RIETER

80 Shreeram Tetile

12 Kushal Institute

81 Sumati Cotspin

83 Ramkrishna Cotton

90 Tirupati Technik & Vora Associates 91SR Ansari Weaving 92 AttireBin 93 Bharat Beam & PDECXIL 94 ITEMA

19

EDITORIAL

WEAVING TECHNOLOGY INDUSTRY IN INDIA

in the mir‘‘ Smile ror. Do that every

morning and you’ll start to see a big difference in your life.

’’

Weaving industry transformation done from Handloom to power loom to Automatic to Robotic looms. All of them are still exist in Indian textile industry and every technology of weaving is important whether its airjet, water jet, with shuttle or shuttle less loom etc. As different quality of fabrics required different kind of technology.

Weaving industry in India having mainly divided after Mill culture lost from Mumbai, INDIA. Organized Composite Mills with Corporate set up and unorganized SME clusters with power loom technology in tier 2 or 3 cities. Major fabric is produced from SME cluster which is present in different pockets of India. But majority cluster not doing well due to lack of business, payment, high yarn price etc.

High tech Weaving Technology which is offered by major European players, who have easy entry to organized sector, but SME cluster is difficult. Indian and Chinese Weaving Technology players are fulfilling the need of SME weaving sector with budgeted and value for money machinery. Rivalry between each country technology is high, as innovative technology with fusion of fibers, unique / creative weaving techniques will be key to get the maximum share of business.

Yarn Traders / manufacture bargaining power very high. They dominate the market with demand supply gap. Government scheme of Yarn Bank is not properly understood and utilized in required sector.

Import of fabric from different countries with lower production cost, made this industry difficult to meet their profits. Make in India is may be not properly sync with bilateral, import duty trade. Due to which bargaining power of buyers are high, as they have choice of purchase from different countries.

Weaving industry will go through tough times, if given more advantage to imported fabrics, payment delays, using old technology etc. We wish this industry become more organized by their mindset.

Wish you a Very Happy and Prosperous Diwali …!!

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

20

www.textilevaluechain.com

October 2018

COVER STORY

PRESENT MARKET SITUATION FOR DOMESTIC AND EXPORTS MARKET India for ages in textile world is well known only as a spinning country and so naturally for years the textile machinery segment has seen great demand from the spinning sector only which has resulted in the growth of market for machinery suppliers from India as well abroad.

Recently the importance of value addition, low investments & huge returns in other sectors like weaving & garmenting has comprehended the entrepreneurs to develop integrated plants & look beyond just yarns. The weaving industry of India is still controlled by the unorganized sector. India manufactures only 5% of cloth through organized sector, 20% through Handloom sector, 15% through knitting sector and 60% is produced through decentralized power loom sector.

From 2013-14 to 2015-16 the import of weaving machineries has increased with a CAGR of 13%. In 2015-16 India imported weaving machineries worth US$ 495.2Mn. The imports in 2017 have slightly reduced due to latest Indian financial reforms. As per fig 1 there is considerable increase by almost 30% in exports of weaving machineries.

The weaving industry in India is bifurcated by three major technology and those are handloom, powerloom & automatic/ shuttleless loom. In the weaving machinery manufacturing sector, India is hardly having any presence in shuttleless weaving machinery manufacturing.

The machinery manufacturing operation takes place at the organized and the unorganized levels. In the organized sector, in addition to the public limited companies, manufacturing of machineries is done in independent units, which have collaborative joint ventures with the foreign entities. In the decentralized sector, there are smallscale industrial units as well as tiny units engaged in the production of handlooms, powerlooms & accessories pertaining to the textile machinery. Around 87 per cent of the total production, i.e., textile machinery is coming from the six clusters namely Ahmedabad, Bangalore, Coimbatore, Ludhiana, Mumbai and Surat. These clusters are strategically located to serve the textile industry and have the affiliation to produce the kind of machinery required by the industry. Majority of the production of loom comes from Ahmedabad, so it is known as cluster of weaving.

The powerloom industry is equipped with approximately 2.701 million registered looms producing 54,000 sq. mtr fabrics, which are concentrated in clusters across Erode, Salem, Madurai, Ichalkarnaji, Solapur, Bhiwandi, Bhilwara and Malegaon, among others. Powerloom sector contributes to 57 per cent of the total cloth production and more than 60 per cent of fabric meant for export STRENGTHS AND WEAKNESSES

In 2016-17 textile machineries worth Rs. 6650 Cr were produced in India. Spinning machineries alone constituted 54% of share. Whereas weaving accounts for a mere share of 14%. (Fig 2)

October 2018

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Manufacturing of Airjet & rapier technology weaving machineries is completely absent. Other shuttleless looms like waterjet manufactured in India provide very low productivity and are currently not able to compete with technological advances and high productivity provided by other international players. The major drawback in terms of manufacturing the weaving machineries is the lack of technical know how. Indian players for years were involved only in manufacturing conventional machines & somehow till date have not been able to cope up with the tremendous technological advance that the sector has witnessed. In local market the major strength of Indian players could have been only the cost effectiveness however due to penetration from Chinese manufacturers the opportunity is diminished. In case of shuttleless weaving machines the manufacturing cost is almost equally divided in three parts namely technological components, accessories & sheet metal hence there is hardly margin for any new Indian player to start manufacturing weaving looms in India the other factor is that the total demand of

21

COVER STORY shuttleless looms was negligible.

OPPORTUNITIES AND THREATS Having a textile culture and one of the renowned countries in textile trade, there are millions of opportunities in machinery manufacturing sector especially the untapped sector like weaving machinery manufacturing. We need to focus more on Research & Development (R&D) to manufacture high standard textile machinery which is required for our own consumption, so that we can reduce imports. Due to our strategic location, we can also explore possibilities of exporting appropriate technology to other developing countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, etc.

Nowadays, there is an upward trend in inquiries for advanced weaving machines from weavers of technical fabrics. Though Indian machinery industry is currently having strong presence in spinning & processing sector, we have not at all explored the big opportunities in manufacturing weaving machines. The growing demands of fabric all across the world will make weaving as a booming sector in coming years.

The recent boost to manufacturing through the make in India initiative will also act as a catalyst towards this growth. Low material costs and operating costs along with our own huge market will give India an edge over other countries. The major threat as far as the weaving machinery manufacturing is concerned is the research & technical knowledge. So it is necessary that we strategize & invest in R& D. Our education pattern should develop research and innovation based concepts for Textile Engineering students so that the real growth happens within our country.

So let us come together & create India as “NEXT TEXTILE MACHINERY HUB”.

Weaving Cluster Indian weaving industry can be bifurcated into 3 segments, powerloom, handloom & automatic/ shuttleless loom..

The powerloom industry is equipped with approximately 2.701 million registered looms producing 54,000 sq. mtr fabrics, which are concentrated in clusters across Erode, Salem, Madurai, Ichalkarnaji, Solapur, Bhiwandi, Bhilwara and Malegaon, among others For Handloom there are 35 government recognized clusters in 19 states. UP is one of the largest handloom driven industry having 4 handloom clusters namely Barabanki, Varanasi, Mubarakpur & Bijnore with 20,000, 80,000, 5000 & 7000 handlooms.

West Bengal is having 3 clusters located at Phulia, Bisnupur & Burdwan with 3200, 1324 & 37500 handlooms. The Burdwan is recognized for its Tangail Naksapar Sarees & Jamdani sarees with jacquard designs. Tamil Nadu is having two clusters called kancheepuram & Salem. The kancheepuram cluster from Tamil nadu having 7000 handlooms is the origin for the popular Kancheepuram sa-

22

ree’s & since 2005 it is protected by a geographical indication label for certifying their origin. Salem is having 8,192 handlooms. In Andhra Pradesh, Chirala, Dharmvaram & Mangalgiri are the 3 clusters having 5000, 1200 & 663 number of handlooms. These clusters are famous for silk saree’s, dress materials, lungi’s, stoles & scarfs. The clusters in Assam are famous for muga silk saree’s, eri silk dress materials, dupatta’s, stoles, scarves, cushion covers & home furnishing. The Bijoynagar cluster has 7500 handlooms located in south kamrup district of Assam & Sualkuchi is a multi-caste town under Guwahati subdivision of kamrup district of Assam having 40,000 handloom clusters. Bhagalpur cluster in Bihar is having around 70,000 handlooms with 30,000 weavers which produces Bhagalpur sarees, dress materials & home furnishings.

Champa in Chhattisgarh is having 300 handlooms & is famous for producing kosa silk saree’s. In Gujarat Patan & Bhuj are the two handloom clusters having 49 & 500 handloom respectively. The Bhuj is well known for its woolen shawls & stoles. Kullu in Himanchal Pradesh produces geometrical design patterns with multicolor effect in twill tapestry weaving technique without using any textile software or devices for the designs. They prefer the use of vegetable dyes as an added organic touch to their designs. The kullu cluster is having 20,000 weavers & around 6500 handlooms. The warm & artistic pashmina shawls & raffal shawls are produced at Srinagar cluster in Kashmir having 582 handlooms. The popular Kani shawls, scarfs & jamawar are produced in Kanihama cluster located in Jammu & Kashmir with 250 handlooms. Bhagaiya cluster in Jharkhand is influenced by the art work of Bhagalpur cluster having 1500 handlooms. Molakalmuru sarees in Karnataka are produced in Molakalmuru district having 1500 handlooms. In Kerala there are 2 handloom clusters namely Balrampuram with 16000 handlooms & Kannur with 6000 handlooms. The Balrampuram is famous for the contemporary cloth wearing styles of Kerala. The weavers here use a primitive type of throw shuttle pit looms for the production of exclusively cotton fabrics with pure zari.

Maheshwari cluster in Madhya Pradesh is having 2449 handlooms producing fabrics inspired from the art work on the forts in Madhya Pradesh mainly including stripes, checks & floral pattern. The Paithani cluster in Maharashtra with 350 handlooms is world famous for their paithani barcode designs and the art needs minimum 2 months to an year for completing a single saree. Imphal in Manipur is another region having highest concentration of handlooms constituting 2276 handlooms comprising of only female workers. Orissa is another handloom dominated state having 7,518 handlooms in Bargarh, 1725 handlooms in Sonepur & 2183 handlooms in Nuapatna. The renowned Sambalpuri Sarees are produced here. They use the IKAT i.e tie & dye technique. Kota in Rajasthan is having 1858 handlooms. As the name suggest the “Kota dori” saree is the produced at this cluster. Pochampally in Andhra Pradesh with 2000 handlooms is also having prominent IKAT designs.

www.textilevaluechain.com

October 2018

COVER STORY INTEGRATED TEXTILES PARK NEWS

working in this value chain.

In order to assist the textile industry for setting up world class state of art infrastructure, increasing investments, generating employment opportunities, boosting exports & improvising the delivery times the government has announced subsidy for assistance in setting up textile parks in major textile hubs. These parks will contain all common facilities & infrastructure like compound wall, roads, drainage, water supply, electricity supply including captive power plant, common effluent treatment plant, and telecommunication lines. It will also contain buildings for common facilities like testing laboratory, design center, training center, trade center/display center, ware-housing facility/ raw material depot, packaging unit, crèche, canteen, workers’ hostel, offices of service providers, labor rest and recreation facilities, marketing support system (backward / forward linkages) etc & also factory building for production purposes. As on 2017 a total 66 textile parks projects are sanctioned by Ministry of textile out of which 19 parks are completed & 47 parks project is under implementation. The government of Maharashtra recently announced that it is also planning to set up nine textile parks in the northern cotton-growing regions of the state. These parks will help to supplement farmers income through value-added products.

India ITME Society as an organiser always strives to provide the best platform for maximum promotion & publicity to the Textile & Textile Engineering machineries. GTTES 2019 is the only officially globally acclaimed event that assists manufacturers to gain advantage of large customers market domestically & globally.

The textile parks are being developed in 14 textile focused states namely Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Maharashtra, Punjab, Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Telangana, Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal Haryana, Himachal Pradesh, Jammu & Kashmir, Madhya Pradesh, & Assam. In the state of Maharashtra there are 14 textile parks being developed.

In order to create a complete value chain textile parks will certainly help and boost the industry. Indian textile ministry needs to give benefits to all realistic investors who are

It is my pleasure to cordially invite you to the world’s largest textile market-India at GTTES 2019, 18th to 20th January 2019, in Mumbai.

MR. S. HARI SHANKAR

Chairman, India ITME Society

Suresh Bhai : M + 91 9978442130

Patidar Cotspin Pvt. Ltd Open End 100% Cotton Yarn Counts From 6s To 24s

411-Shanti Arcade,132ft Ring Road, Naranpura, Ahmedabad – 380013,Gujarat, India Advt.

Contact :+91-79-29298891/92/93 |Fax: +91-79-40095580 Email: info@patidarcotspin.com | infopatidarcotspin@gmail.com Website:www.patidarcotspin.com

October 2018

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23

COVER STORY

WEAVING TECHNOLOGY CHANGING THE WEAVING INDUSTRY IN INDIA Technological advancement is need of the hour.

Technology developers are constantly innovating to produce & upgrade technology of machineries that increase production, save time & make process simpler. Every now & then new technologies are introduced that brings massive change in production quantity, improvement in quality and operating time or ease out the process. All these advantages come with a price, it demands additional capital investment.

Today for completing a single process there are multiple technologies available that do the same work in multiple ways. So when it comes to selection of a technology for textile machineries people just don’t jump to the latest version like in the case of smart phones. A detailed comparison of price to the need of advancement is carried out along with analysis of advantages that the technology will offer.

machineries has increased with a CAGR of 13%. But in recent years, beside above flexibility & improvement in machine utilization are receiving more attention by machinery manufacturers.

From handloom to power looms & then automatic shuttle and thereafter shuttleless looms have taken this industry to a new level. Shuttleless machines have not only increased productivity, efficiency but have also made possible the production of fault free fabrics. In case of Rapier looms recently various developments have taken place in filling insertion, shedding mechanism, let-off mechanism, take-up mechanism, selvedge, quick style change to name a few. Around 2.701 Million registered looms in powerloom industry are producing 54,000 sq. mtr fabric.

Global Textile machinery market is witnessing tremendous growth buoyed by growing demand of textile & apparel market. It is forecasted to grow at a CAGR of 14.02% till 2018. The major countries manufacturing textile machinery are Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Japan, France and now China. The textile technologies are available in two version low cost (semi automatic) mostly manufactured in China for low cost countries and high cost (automatic) for developed countries.

The Indian textile Machinery industry is nearly sixty years old and has more than 1000 machinery and component manufacturing units. Nearly 300 units produce complete machinery and the remaining produces various textile machinery components. We all know that India is the global leader in textiles next to China. We are having best quality of cotton and producing finest quality of yarns, fabrics & garments. But unlike China, we do not have in house manufacturing of textile machineries. Most of the machineries are being imported. India in 2016-17 imported machineries worth Rs. 14,990.83 Cr. We are importing a lot of textile machinery as there are only a handful of quality machinery manufacturers in India.

There is hardly any Indian machinery manufacturer manufacturing machines for weaving, knitting that provides high level of quality standard and performance to compete with the European manufacturers Weaving machines have undergone tremendous modifications in last three decades ultimately resulting in improved quality and production. In past, major developments in weaving machinery have been primarily geared up with objective of higher productivity, better quality, reduction in number of operations through automation & reduce cost of production. From 2013-14 to 2015-16 the import of weaving

24

Some of the past developments in weft insertion systems are Shuttle looms, Projectile looms, Rapier looms, Airjet looms etc. Apart from the various weft insertion systems, some of the remarkable developments in weaving have been higher production system, microprocessor application, information technology, quick style change system, energy conservation, safety measures etc.

The emphasis on productivity and quality has developed the weaving technology very much and as a result the working hours required to weave fabric from loom have been reduced from about 20 to 0.25 during the last 125 years, and in the last 50 years there has been a reduction of 95% inoperative hours per standard unit produced.

Conclusion Having a textile culture and one of the renowned countries in textile trade, there are millions of opportunities in machinery manufacturing sector especially the un-

www.textilevaluechain.com

October 2018

COVER STORY tapped sector like weaving machinery manufacturing. We need to focus more on Research & Development (R&D) to manufacture high standard textile machinery which is required for our own consumption, so that we can reduce imports. Due to our strategic location, we can also explore possibilities of exporting appropriate technology to other developing countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, etc.

It is necessary that we strategies & invest in R& D. Our education pattern should develop research and innovation based concepts for Textile Engineering students so that the real growth happens within our country.

AVINASH MAYEKAR

MD and CEO, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

NOISE POLLUTION AND ITS CONTROL IN A WEAVING PLANT Introduction Noise is an unwanted sound that interferes with the function in a given space. It is subjective because what is disturbing and unacceptable to one may be acceptable to another. It is difficult to give a very clear definition of an irritating noise. Generally, noise is a disturbing sound, regardless of its intensity or duration.

In recent years even, a developing country like India has taken positive steps against excessive noise. Like air and water pollution, noise pollution has been accepted as a major threat to human beings. Much discussion and legislation has been evolved in an attempt to recognize and combat the problem of noise pollution. It has been recognized that noise, of sufficient intensity, can damage hearing.

Sound is transported through a medium like air, water etc. by means of its rarefaction and compression. The energy transmitted in the process per unit time by unit area of the compressing and expanding medium provides a measure of the intensity of sound. Since energy per unit time is equivalent to power in Watts, the unit of sound intensity is expressed in watts/ sq.m, m. The sound power of an average whisper is 0.1 µW. The air pressure fluctuation created by sound is measured in Pascal (Pa).. A normal human being can sense sound pressure varying in the range of 20 µPa to 20 Pa. A logarithmic decibel scale (dB) is used to measure sound with reference to hearing ability of human beings. A sound level of 0dB is assigned to a sound intensity of 10-12 W/sq.m. Expressing sound level in dB scale is a convenient method of compressing the scale of numbering the scale of number associated with the variation in pressure into a managable range

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from 10 log(100) = 0dB to 10log (1012)dB = 120dB. The decibel is a dimensionless number, which relates sound intensity or sound pressure levels to some reference point. When most people use the term decibel or discuss noise levels in decibels, they refer to decibels as related to the A-weighted scale (dBA). The A-weighted scale parallels the sensitivity of the human ear and uses the lowest audible sound that the human ear can detect as the reference point for determining the decibel level of a noise.

Any noise rating above 80 dBA produces physiological effects and any long exposure at above 90 or 100 decibels will produce permanent damage to a person’s hearing.

An increase of 10 dBA is a doubling of loudness with respect to the human ear.

Noise generally consists of many tones with varying rates of vibration or frequency. The frequency, expressed in cycles per sound and referred to as cps or Hertz (Hz), is usually in the range of 20 - 20,000 cycles per second. The ear is not very responsive to very low or very high tones as it is selective to the tones of medium frequency. As mentioned earlier, the dBA scale matches the response of the ear and is, therefore, well suited for evaluating noise as it relates to human beings.

This paper highlights the noise in a weaving , its effects on the workers and the measures taken by machine manufacturers to reduce the noise emission.

Noise in a Weaving Plant Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association (ATIRA) conducted noise pollution surveys in the Indian textile mills over a period of 15 years. The results (Table 1)

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COVER STORY Table 1– Noise level in different departments of a weaving plant

Section

Noise level, dBA

Winding

82 – 86

Twisting

95-100

Texturizing

100 -110

Warping

80 – 86

Sizing

73 – 86

Loom shed (Non-auto)

94 – 99

Loom shed (Auto)

95 – 97

This indicate that noise level in weaving preparatory is low. Excessive noise level of 94 - 99 dBA is in loom shed, depending upon the design, type, erection and number of looms used, machine footing and foundation, condition of machines, fabric structure, building type, building size, etc.

Talukdar1 evaluated quantitatively the noise level of conventional automatic looms and observed that the noise during weaving is mostly impulsive and periodic in character. When the loom is run with a shuttle, noise level increases by about 1.5 – 2.0 dBA. The maximum noise level is observed at the front of the machine because of the movement of sley, which causes air turbulence. As the loom speed increases, the noise level also increases significantly due to the higher impact forces acting on the different parts of a loom. Spectrum analysis shows that the peak noise level occurs at the frequencies between 1.4 kHz and 5.0 kHz and is mainly due to the impact between different parts of the picking and checking mechanisms.

Of the shuttleless weaving machines, noise level of water jet weaving machine is the lowest (85 dBA) followed by that of air jet and rapier weaving machines (91 dBA) and projectile weaving machine (92 dBA).

Effect of Noise on Human Beings The effect of noise on human health is a subject of research for some time, nevertheless, in India, no systematic study has been conducted so far. Damage risk criteria2 of workers exposed to sound level of ≥ 85 dBA at the frequencies 500, 1000 and 1500 Hz are given in Table 2. Damage risk Criteria

Years of experience = Age - 18years

b

Balachew and Berhane3 carried out a detailed study in a textile factory of Ethiopia during October-December 1994. They found the prevalence of, and risk factors for, noise-induced hearing loss (NIHL) in a textile mill. A sample of 630 from 5900 workers was selected from the factory rosters by means of systematic sampling technique.

Data were collected through interview, otology examination, and pure tone audiogram measurement. Environmental noise survey and personal dosimeter data were also collected to determine noise exposure levels at every section of the mill. The highest noise level in area samples was observed in the weaving section (99.5±3.2 dBA).

History of hearing loss was reported by 51 (8.1%) participants, while 57(9.0%) reported a history of ear related diseases. More than one third (34.3%) complained of current ear problems, and 186 (29.5%) complained of ear pain. On physical examination, 154 (24.4%) were found to have detectable ear problems, of which 66 (42.9%) had otitis, while the remainder had ceremonious occlusion of the auditory canal. There was no significant difference by gender in the prevalence of detectable ear problems.

Audiometric tests, carried out at a frequency of 4000 Hz, revealed a 34% overall prevalence of NIHL (hearing threshold level exceeding 25 dBA) with the highest prevalence of 71.1% observed among the weavers. Preventive measures were generally absent, with no employee reporting use of personal protective devices (PPDs). Textile factories 4,5 are among the many occupational settings that pose the risk of noise-induced hearing loss.

Apart from damage to hearing, there is evidence that noise also affects the people in the following other ways:

•

Reduced performance e.g. reduced ability to concentrate.

• Disturbance of sleep.

• Annoyance (oral communication is difficult or impossible), which manifests itself primarily in emotional responses.

• Excitement (activation) of the central and vegetative nervous system, e.g. increased blood pressure, higher heart frequency, and effect of metabolism.

Methods of Reducing Noise and Vibration

10b

20b

30b

4b

85

3

6

8

10

90

10

16

18

21

95

17

28

31

29

The problem of noise pollution can be combated when there are means of measuring noise levels and a system of classification. In approaching the possibilities of reducing noise and vibration, a fundamental distinction must be drawn between the active and passive measures. Active measures are all primary measures, which prevent noise and vibration to occur in the first place. Passive measures are all secondary actions aimed at reducing the radiation of existing noise and vibration.

100 29 42 44 a A 40-hour week with 50 weeks per year

41

Active Measures

Equivalent control sound level, dBA

26

Risk percentage

Despite the enormous increase in speed of the textile ma-

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COVER STORY chines, the machinery manufacturers have succeeded in keeping the noise level reasonably low. For example, the speed of the projectile weaving machines has gone up from 550 m/min to 1500 m / min during the last two decades, but the sound level of the machine on the emission side (effect on human beings) reduced from 92 dBA to 86 dBA6. Some of the active measures taken by the textile machine manufacturers, especially weaving, to control noise and vibration are briefly discussed below: Reducing Inertia Forces Inertia forces that are produced in a machine are responsible for noise and vibration. If noise and vibration are to be reduced, this presupposes a reduction in the inertia forces. Reducing the masses and/or reducing the acceleration can achieve this. With this in mind, the weaving machinery manufacturers have repeatedly optimized the most important components of the textile machinery and therefore, there is very little scope to reduce the mass further. However, the reduction in mass can also be achieved through substitution with another material like carbon.

Some progress has been made in this direction. Since the introduction of new material usually means redesigning of entire section of the system, the modifications of this kind are generally not transferable to older machines.

They are, therefore, restricted to newer generation machines. The simplest method of reducing acceleration is to reduce the rotational speed and/or to increase the distance, but both are not feasible for well-known reasons.

A reduction of 10% in speed of a weaving machine6, for example, would give a noise reduction of 2 dBA. Another possibility of reducing noise is the optimum design of the sequence of motion at a given speed and a given stroke.

Today, cam gears are replaced by crank gears since the former give acoustic and vibration problems which arise from the choice of long standstill times and discontinuous transmission functions, while the latter give harmonious transmission functions resulting in a steep drop in the ex-

Fig. 1– Noise reduction of individual functional groups in the projectile weaving machine [LT– box and supplementary girders, SCH– heald frames, tappet motion and harness drive, SU– picking unit, and FA– receiving unit

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citation spectrum of forces to give acoustically problem free machine.

General machine components (toothed gears, motor, fans, etc) are also a major source of noise on all machines.

Noise control is extremely important, for example, in toothed gears. Faulty gear teeth cause uneven transmission, and bumpy loading of the teeth. Mass balancing is another way of reducing noise. Effect of noise reduction measures of individual functional groups in the projectile weaving machine6 is shown in Fig 1.

Active Noise Control Active noise control (ANC) is the state-of-the-art technique which is most successfully demonstrated for controlling noise in enclosed spaces such as ducts, vehicle cabins, exhaust pipes and headphones. However, the most demonstrations have not yet made the transition into successful commercial products, probably due to the high capital cost. In 1998, Vigone7 undertook a project to use active noise control technique on weaving machines.

Initial laboratory study indicated that newly designed active noise control is able to work in reverberant field as the looms’ hall. The basic principle of ANC technique is outlined as follows: ANC is sound field modifications, particularly sound field cancellation, by electro- acoustical means. In simplest form, a control system drives a speaker to produce a sound field that is an exact mirror image of the offending sound (disturbance). The speaker thus cancels the disturbance and the net result is no sound at all. In practice, of course, active control is somewhat more complicated. The idea of active noise control was actually conceived in the 1930’s, and more developments are done in the 1950’s.

However, it was not until the advent of modern digital computers that active control became truly practical. ANC works best when the wavelength is long compared to the dimensions of its surroundings, i.e. low frequencies.

The four major parts of an active control system are: • The plant is the physical system to be controlled; typical examples are a headphone and the air inside it and the air traveling through an air-conditioning duct.

• Sensors are the microphones, accelerometers or other devices that sense the disturbance and monitor how well the control system is performing.

• Actuators are the devices that physically do the work of altering the plant response; usually they are electromechanical devices such as speakers or vibration generators.

• The controller is a signal processor (usually digital) that tells the actuators what to do; the controller bases its commands on sensor signals and, usually, on some knowledge of how the plant responds to the actuators.

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COVER STORY The active control system is yet to implement in a waving unit.

Passive measures These measures should be looked at keeping following three basic solutions in mind: • Blocking airborne sound.

• Absorption of airborne sound.

• Vibration damping.

For most applications, a solution will consist of one to all of these categories.

Blocking Airborne Sound Individual ear protectors are by far the most effective and cheapest means of reducing airborne noise emissions.

They are available virtually everywhere in any forms.

However, they must be worn and, therefore, require the exercise of a minimum of discipline.

Normally all machines including weaving machines have enclosures. The enclosure is basically made up of a metal or plastic sheet and its primary function is for cosmetic purposes or as a safety feature to protect the work force from a possible hazard. Whatever the case may be, it is convenient when an enclosure, of any sort, can be utilized for noise abatement.

At frequencies from 250 Hz to 750 Hz, a barrier can be extremely effective if a complete enclosure exists. The major stumbling block associated with barrier materials is that they are best utilized with complete enclosures.

A small amount of open area, even 1%, will significantly reduce the barrier’s performance. In general, a complete enclosure gives substantial noise reduction, but the method has considerable drawbacks in respect of space requirements, monitoring, accessibility, operation and maintenance, material flow, cleaning and cost. Partial enclosure has rather fewer disadvantages as regards space requirements, monitoring and accessibility. However, the effect achieved is much less with a total enclosure.

When the absorber is coupled with a barrier, significant reduction can be realised. The acoustical energy, which is not dissipated by the absorber, is reflected, in part, by the barrier and is again dissipated by the absorber. The total energy within the enclosure is reduced, which minimizes the problem of acoustical energy that escapes out of the open area of partial enclosures.

Absorption of Airborne Sound If the major noise problem lies in the medium frequency range (500 Hz - 4,000 Hz), the acoustical absorption can be a good starting point.

By lining the interior walls of the enclosure with an absorber, a significant amount of the acoustical energy incident on the walls can be absorbed and dissipated. Particulars of a typical acoustic absorbent fabric are given in

28

Table 3. Properties of acoustical membrane fabrics

Property

Fabric I

Fabric II

Coated fabric weight, gsm

475 (nominal)

290 (nominal)

Thickness, mm

0.35 (nominal)

0.35 (nominal)

62 (min)

37 (min)

50 (min)

32 (min

5.3 (min)

3.0 (min)

3.5 (min

3.2 (min)

Strip tensile, N/m (Strain rate: 50 mm/m) Warp Weft Trapezoidal tear, N/m Warp Weft

Solar transmission 23 (nominal) (ASTM E-424), %

27 (nominal)

Solar reflectance 68 (nominal) (ASTM E-424), %

65 (nominal)

Burning characteristics Flame spread (ASTM 0 (max) E-84) 0 (max) Smoke generation (Tunnel test)

5 (max) 15 (max)

Incombustibility of Pass substrates (ASTM E-136)

Pass

Sound absorption, 0.70 sabins/ m2 Frequency 250 Hz – 4000 Hz (ASTM C 123)

0.55

This fabric utilizes controlled permeability to optimize the absorption characteristics. Another advantage of membrane is the impervious film facings available that prevent absorption of dirt, oil, grease and moisture, which will degrade the sound attenuating properties and shorten the life of the foam. Since the most industrial applications have somewhat of an adverse environment, a film facing is a necessity.

As sound waves, which are pressure waves traveling in air, pass through a porous open cell of membranes, the movement of the air molecules through the openings across the strands and membranes generates heat through friction which takes energy away from the sound wave. The most significant attribute affecting an absorber’s acoustical performance is the permeability performance of the product..

Rakshit et al.8 studied the noise absorption of 300 gsm needle-punched nonwoven fabrics using a number of

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COVER STORY blend compositions of wool and polypropylene. They concluded that wool waste/polypropylene blend could be used effectively for noise reduction. Sound absorbing covers as well as machine and accessory components made of special materials or with special coatings may be used in modern spinning and weaving machines. These along with other measures can reduce the sound power level of these machines. For example, the sound level6 of projectile weaving machines at maximum rotational speed is reduced from 105 to 102 dBA. This corresponds on the emission side (effect on human beings) to a reduction of the sound pressure level from 89 to 86 dBA. This noise reduction of 3 dBA is equivalent to a halving of the noise exposure.

However, in the areas where low frequency airborne sound is predominant, an absorber is limited in its efficiency. Because the wavelength of sound waves is inversely proportional to the frequency, the lower is the frequency, the longer is the wave length. A sound wavelength at 100 Hz has a wavelength of approximately 3 m.

In an enclosure or partial enclosure application, a sound absorber cannot reduce the sound energy below what is being produced. The ideal situation is to absorb enough energy, so the reflected sound waves do not reinforce the sound energy being produced. To illustrate this point, if a noise source produces 90 dBA of sound energy and a partial or full bare metal enclosure is put over the noise source, the reflected sound will reinforce the sound produced and the sound level within the enclosure may increase to 100 dBA . By lining the enclosure with a properly selected absorption product, the energy of the reflected sound waves does not reinforce the incident sound waves. The sound level within the enclosure can be reduced to 90dBA, but not below this level since this is what is being produced.

Vibration Damping Constantly increasing weaving machine speeds produce not only steadily higher noise levels but also higher vibration emissions. In the process, the forces increase proportionally to the square of the speed (a 10% increase in speed means a 20% increase in forces). Damping pads are used to dissipate mechanical vibration. For high speed weaving machines, plastic spring elements were used to reduce vibration emission. Subsequently, air spring absorbers were developed to enhance the performance of vibration isolation. Today, steel spring/laminated base plate elements are replacing air spring absorbers since the former is just effective as the later as regards isolation effect, but it is virtually maintenance free. These elements can be retrofitted.

level for a 10% increase in weft insertion rate thus changes as follows: •

With a 10% increase in rotational speed and unchanged machine width, the noise level rises by about 2 dBA. •

With a 10% increase in width and the same speed, the noise level rises by only 0.5 - 0.7 dBA. Wide weaving machines thus record lower noise levels than the narrow weaving machines at the same weft insertion rate.

Conclusion Reduction of noise is important and above all a demanding task. Machinery manufacturers have attempted to keep the noise emission as low as possible, but what would have been achieved in lowering down the noise level has been cancelled out by the continuous increase in speed. Further progress in this field is foreseeable with the aid of computer-aided online control.

The noise level in weaving plants is high and it is high time that the mills must recognize this as an environmental problem with an impact on occupational environment and take steps to reduce it. There is a need to establish a hearing conversation program in all the weaving plants, the components of which shall include noise assessment,, increasing awareness among the workers about the adverse effects of noise, use of hearing protection and audiometry.

Acknowledgement The author express his gratitude to Mr. Y K Kusumgar , Chairman, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt Ltd, for his guidance and permission to publish this paper.

Reference 1 Talukdar M K, Analysis and synthesis of shuttle propulsion and retardation, Ph.D. thesis, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, 1981.

2 Talukdar M K, in Prerequisites of Successful Installation of High Speed Looms, edited by M L Gulrajani [Textile Association (India), Delhi], 1983, 13.

3 Belachew Ayele & Berhane Yemane, Ethiop J Health Development, 13(2)(1999) 69.

4 Reich M R & Okubo T, Protecting Worker’s Health in the Developing World (National and International Strategies, London), 1992.

5 Schuknecht H F, Pathology of the Ear (Harvard University Press, Cambridge, Massachusetts and London), 1976,302.

6 Sulzer Textil, Private Communication.

7 Vigone Marco, Industrial Engineering Consultants S.r.l., Private Communication.

8 Rakshit A K, Ghosh S K & Thakare V B, Optimisation of blend of wool/polypropylene nonwoven fabric for sound absorption , paper presented at the 9th Inter-Wool Conference, Biella, Italy, 25 –28 June 1995.

By damping an enclosure or panel, the panel’s resonance will be reduced. This may reduce the sound level if the resonance of the panel is significant enough to produce airborne sound. Another benefit of damping a panel is the reduction of natural frequency vibration and resonance, which reduces the effectiveness of the panel to block noise due to its mass.

Weaving Machine Widths Increased output on a weaving machine can be achieved by increasing the speed or by using greater widths. The noise

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DR M K TALUKDAR 29

COVER STORY

CRITICAL CONSTRAINTS AND REQUIRED INTERVENTIONS IN WEAVING INDUSTRY OF PUNJAB There are very few countries in the world which own the entire supply chain and India has clear advantage of being one of them. The benefits of owning the entire value chain in close proximity are many and a pre requisite for cluster developments which provide necessary forward and backward linkages for the growth of any industry. Not only does India own a vibrant spinning sector with availability of a diverse range of fibers but it also has the advantage of a large market capable of accepting products in a variety of ranges. In the field of woven textiles, the country has the capability of producing a wide variety of products using different count sizes, blends, cloth of variable weights and weaving configuration, and a wide range of finishing applications. Another advantage and the major factor which contributed to the development of a vibrant cluster of weaving firms initially is the low labour cost contributing to enhancing the cost competitiveness of the labour intensive industry. The diverse traditional knowledge and skill sets in the field of woven textiles is also a major factor for development of unique value added products in the country with worldwide demand.

The Indian textile industry, which is specialized in the manufacture of various types of cloth, is scattered almost throughout the country. The textile business meets the local fabric and export requirements. The textile industry in India is mainly consisting of small scale industries with limited players functioning at large scale. These small scale weaving industries producing various products have an extremely important role to play in the economic, social and political development of the area where these units are concentrated. The advances made in various fields of communication and logistics and the economic liberalization has resulted in the economies being more prone to competition within and from outside the country. The textile sector of the country is also facing huge competition from other Asian countries where labour cost is at par or much lesser than our clusters. The technological capabilities of Indian textile firms are lower, as compared to those in Canada or China. Most investments in India have been in spinning units. Amritsar, Ludhiana and Panipat—the three major textile centers in the Northern part of India are strongholds in their respective areas of knitting, hosiery and carpets and industrial yarns.

The textile industry in Punjab which is the largest employer in the state after agriculture, though still financially troubled, accounts for 19 per cent of the total industrial production of the state and contributes about 38 per cent of the total exports from Punjab. The two main clusters of textile industry in the state are located at Amritsar and Ludhiana. This industry is famous for producing textile

30

fabrics of different types including cotton, synthetic and woolen fabrics like blankets, shawls and carpets and warp knitting fabrics. In order to be globally competitive, the industry is being forced to improve its cost efficiencies.

The industry is reeling under pressure for extreme labour shortage affecting the productivity of the industry. There are approximately 800- 900 textile manufacturing units in Amritsar and a lot of allied industries for processing like printing, dyeing and embroidery are associated with the cluster. In Ludhiana, which is majorly a knitwear cluster, the power loom based textile units form a major part of the industrial profile of Punjab and the number of such units is approximately 250- 260. The industry has the potential to provide employment to approximately 2.5 lakh workers as skilled as well as unskilled workforce. Majority of the presently employed workers are migrants from the neighboring states and engage in cyclic employment. The industry is facing a deficit of almost 50 thousand workers in skilled worker category. This deficit is resulting in reduced capacity utilization of the industrial units and the productivity, quality and cost competitiveness of the clusters is adversely affected. A lot of industries have moved towards automation but the skill gap is more pronounced here as the skilled workforce to operate these computerized and semi automatic machineries are not there.

The weaving clusters in India specializes in a particular type of fabric production due to various factors like raw material availability in the vicinity, environmental conditions, skill set available, traditional knowledge and culture of the region. The weaving industry of Amritsar was set up around 300 years ago when Maharaja Ranjit Singh established some weavers in Amritsar. The cloth produced here was initially sent to various places like Kabul and Iraq but the trade suffered a setback after partition and the industry started growing in Surat and Ahmadabad because of proximity of port and availability of cotton. A lot of looms got shifted to Surat but setting up of big spinning units in Punjab helped in reviving of the woven industry at Amritsar which is a flourishing woven textile cluster today with developed printing and dyeing industries for value addition of woven fabrics. The industry in Ludhiana is also more than a century old and originated from the Kashmiri migrants who were skilled in weaving fine woolen fabrics and embroidery. Their products were commercialized by local traders both within and beyond Punjab and these traders later diversified to producing other value added products from woven fabrics. The cluster has an approximate turnover of Rs. 600 Crores from approximately 240 power loom weaving units. The work of industry is mainly seasonal as the products are manufactured from acrylic and wool and are not required throughout the year. The

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COVER STORY share of Ludhiana power loom industry is very less in the national power loom production and the share of export from Ludhiana is not more than five per cent.

The weaving industry members comprising Micro and small manufacturing enterprises at Punjab are engaged in manufacturing of power loom products like woolen and acrylic shawls, fashion stoles, gents Lohis ,blankets, Bed sheets and fabric for various end uses. The employment pool of the textile industry in Punjab shows that the industry is not in very good health as depicted by low or negative yearly growth rates of workers on rolls of the industry and in many cases the units have been closed. It is important that we identify the constraints faced by these industrial units and highlight them for the policy makers to undertake remedial measures so that they can withstand the international competition. The industry reels with many problems and a collective effort is missing to find a permanent solution to the various issues. The power loom manufacturers from other states like Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Haryana and even other cities of Punjab have moved over to machineries of improved technology but the manufacturers from Ludhiana have not taken much benefit of any technology up gradation facility provided by the Government. Majority of cluster units have traditional machinery and there is shortage of technical manpower with an urgent requirement for modernization of looms and introduction of new technology .The critical constraints faced by the weaving industry in Punjab are many and need to be dealt with before we can expect a vibrant growth environment in this industry Trust Building:

Adoption of Information Technology: Even though the younger generation joining the industries is adept at using the modern means of communication, still a majority of units have not managed to keep pace with the speed and need of information dissemination. There is dire need for adoption of information technology and making an efficient utilization of the same not only in communication but in marketing and product development also.

Quality control: The weaving industry being labour intensive, it is also prone to imperfections due to human error and a lot of quality control measures are required to be followed at various stages of production and packing. Globalization has paved the way for expectations for excellent product performance while keeping the track on low cost strategy and cost competencies. The industry is using discretion with regard to following required quality control measures which accounts for expensive economy and deterioration in quality and consequently impacts selling price and decreases profit. The industry needs to constantly refine its approach to device solutions for improved quality standards by adoption of latest technology, trends and marketing techniques Raw material:

Networking among enterprises and sharing of knowledge and resources wherever required is an essential part of development of an industrial cluster, and the basic requirement for such networking is trust among the stakeholders. There is dire lack of trust among the cluster stakeholders and steps need to be taken through various soft interventions so that awareness about importance of information sharing and working together towards common objectives can be emphasized. There are so many schemes and incentives provided by the Government of India for the development of industry but majority of the industrialists have not managed to reap any benefit from these schemes due to little awareness about same.

Marketing of the products: The problem of marketing is usually faced by small scale industries due to their inability to undertake large marketing initiatives and lack of research and new product development which helps in creating a niche market. Small and medium enterprises also find it difficult to enter the export market due to lack of resources. They usually compete against each other by cutting prices in the absence of collective efforts. In Punjab region, among medium

October 2018

scale industries, only four percent units in Amritsar and thirteen percent units in Ludhiana are directly selling to foreign buyers while majority are working through agents and micro and small units are mainly involved in job work for medium size units.

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The major raw material is the yarn used in manufacturing and the usage is more of acrylic and polyester yarns which are either imported or supplied by Reliance industries Limited. The industry faces a lot of difficulties due to fluctuating yarn prices and finishing processes due to better bargaining power of other industries in the region due to their extensive volume. A common facility center for spinning and finishing dedicated to power loom industry can help in better control on prices and production process.

Man power: The weaving industry is highly labour intensive though modern machinery is available for majority of operations. Most of the labour available with weaving industry is either unskilled or semiskilled. The unskilled labour is essentially required for movement of raw material, semifinished and finished goods. The industry faces a lot of problem in getting trained and skilled manpower as there is no training facility for training manpower for running latest and automatic machines. Some training programs and a dedicated training center can train local young girls on these machines and fulfill the existing skill gap.

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COVER STORY Under utilization of capacity: The weaving industry especially of Ludhiana indulges mainly in woolen products and thus is seasonal in nature though the same issue is not faced at Amritsar and Panipat. This leads to underutilization of capacity of machinery and other capital assets which disturbs the cost economies of production. The industry is also fashion driven and design and market trends affect the demand of products because of which mass production of goods is not always possible. The industry works mainly by availability of orders by buyers and manufacturing planning is affected by pre booking quantities. A survey found that 65 percent units in Ludhiana and 73 percent units in Amritsar are not operating at full capacity which results in excessive overhead costs. The industry can definitely benefit by proper linkages with global value chain as it faces stiff competition from branded national and International products of similar category and these linkages will help in capacity utilization.

There are various other challenges being faced by the industrial units. As the products are seasonal, the workers get seasonal employment and hence it becomes difficult for small and micro enterprises to invest in a regular workforce. Increase in Product development and designing capabilities can help the industry get a much better

hold on the market. The workers should be provided in house training by employers and the system of promotion and incentives should be properly implemented. The pollution norms, though necessary to be followed, should be implemented properly, the norms should be realistic in nature with reduced formalities and a single window system for all type of clearances should be adopted. Cluster approach has been very successful in similar industries at other places as it helps smaller units to grow with the benefit of large enterprise. There should be a common facility center and a yarn bank should be set up to help members negotiate better raw material prices by making centralized purchase. Thus the focus of the cluster should be on increased automation, improvement of quality standards, improved material flow and usage, prepare local workforce for handling and operating latest automatic machines, creating a conducive environment for this workforce, increased adoption of information technology and enhanced level of mutual trust among the stakeholders.

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STOP MARKS, STARTING MARKS AND SETTING SHED IN WEAVING Is important to start by explaining that the stop marks and starting marks are common defects in the weaving, the difference, which can be an advantage or a disadvantage, is due to the characteristics of the fabric that makes these defects are more notorious or less notorious.

The intention of this publication is to explain the main criteria to control and repair these defects, the textile adjustments made must first seek to reduce or eliminate machine stoppages, warp stop and weft stop, then eliminate or attenuate stop or starting marks.

Fig: Starting marks

First, we must recognize the types of defects that can occur in the fabric for a stop mark or a start mark: 1. Open Marks: It occurs when one or more picks are separated leaving a horizontal line open. This failure usually occurs in fabrics with low cover factor.

It occurs when one or more picks are together leaving a closed horizontal line. This failure usually occurs in lightweight fabrics.

3. Wavy Marks: It is produced when more than one picks is superimposed, one above the other, leaving a horizontal band that is uneven and closed. This failure occurs in heavy fabrics, twills or satins with high cover factor and always at machine start-up.

The next step is to determine what type of defect is occurring and if it is generated at machine stoppage or startup. For this, there is a simple procedure for testing stop and start marks: 1. Cause a stoppage of the loom, by warp and by weft.

2. Insert a color yarn approximately 10 to 20 cm in front of the last inserted picks.

3. Wait for one to three minutes.

4. Start the loom.

5. Check the type of defect, open or dense, and if this defect occurs before or after the color yarn used as a mark; this way, we determine if the failure occurred at stoppage or at machine start-up.

6. To realize various tests with different regulations, minimum 20 cm distance between one and another test.

2. Dense Marks:

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COVER STORY Basic Controls:

less than its nominal speed (less force beat-up).

Is necessary to ensure the correct state and operation of the mechanical and electronic parts of the loom to rule out possible open and / or dense by default of machine, for example:

Stop position:

1. Mechanical function of let-off and take-up y Bearings y Gears y Transmission chains y Supports / joints y Covering of sand beam and pressure rollers.

2. Temple, wear and type of rings according to the fabric.

3. Levers: transmission of the shed former, wastage of the bearings 4. Drive and brake of machine, pulleys and transmission belts.

There is also the possibility that the fabric presents open or dense defects during the weaving process, but these are attributed to defects of some mechanical or electronic component. This report will not review these defects, which correspond to preventive and / or corrective maintenance.

Main Causes: We will review three main causes that generate the stops marks and starting marks and that in modern looms we have the option to control and regulate.

Machine stop times: The start marks are more notorious depending on the time that the loom is stopped waiting for its intervention, the longer the stoppage, more severe is the failure; this reason is basically a work method. It must be sought to reduce machine stop as much as possible; with textile adjustments to avoid machine stop or with timely attention; For example, if there is a warp stop on a loom and a filling stop on another loom, the filling stop should be repair first since it is faster to intervene and repair next the warp stop.

After the machine stop has been produced, it is positioned in a specific adjusted degree. The conditions of the position of stopped will depend on the type of insertion of the loom, the ligament and the stopped type; for example, it is recommended, when working a fabric plain, to regulate the stop position at the moment of the shed crossing when a filling stop occurs to avoid stretching the warp during the stop time, until the operator arrives to look for the correct picks and start the loom; similarly when a warp break occurs, adjust a stop position that allows the operator to easily insert the warp through the needles and the reed without the need for additional manual movements.

Start position: After the operator makes the repair or correction of the stop, the machine goes to a starting position degree. The criterion here is to seek that the first inserted picks is beat-up as close to its nominal speed, depending on the machine rpm, the nominal speed is reached only at the third or fourth picks. For example, when the first inserted pick leaves a open mark at the start, what we have to regulate is the position farthest from the finishing point; So we give you more time to reach your nominal speed.

In some modern looms, for example the Picanol loom, is possible to have the option of regulating empty picks (ASO value), in this way, it is possible to achieve that the first inserted picks is beat-up at its nominal speed.

It also has other electronic options to correct stop o starting marks with adjustments in the let-off and take-up system.

In the following image we show an interactive screen for adjusting the start and stop marks of a PicanolOmniPlus 800 loom and on the scale how movements are generated according to the setting made for “others

Nominal speed: It is the adjusted maximum speed of a loom during its working process and it differs according to the load or the slow motions of the loom. Here it is important to understand three concepts: Braking angle: When a machine stop occurs, it does not stop instantly; it has a brake slip depending on the type of drive or the machine speed. This can be from 40 ° to approximately 200 °. It is important to know this information, since it allows us to know how the last picks inserted pass was completed. If this last was during the beat-up moment, it is possible that a open mark is generated; since it will be

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Warp tension difference: The difference in tension that affects the stop and start marks is determined by the correct adjustment of the shed. The shed is the tunnel that is formed with the movement of the warps that go up and down according

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COVER STORY to the design of the fabric through which the weft is inserted and that we will detail some types of adjustments later on.

characteristics to achieve a “clean” shed that allows a correct separation and movement of the warp and a correct insertion of the weft.

To regulate a correct shed it is necessary to know some conditions of the style or fabric:

Shed angle: You should start working with the lowest possible opening angle to prevent stretching the warp so much. It must be understood that the more shed opening is regulated; it will require more time to recover the elongation that suffers during the movement of the frames and the movements of slow motion during the stop and start of the machine.

The cover factor: t is a value that indicates the covering property of a fabric, the maximum capacity of warp or weft in a specific space.

This will help us determine if the fabric to be worked is a heavy item (> 85% tupidity) or light weight (<65% tupidity) and in this way regulate the appropriate posterior shed.

The following are the formulas for calculating the warp, weft, and total coverage factor.

Shed height: It will be restricted or limited according to the type of insertion (air, rapier or projectile). Similarly, what is sought is that during the beat-up of the weft is made as soft as possible. Also, to help warp layers can be individualized and to help separate them easily.

Symmetry: Depending the ligament and the cover factor, different variants of sheds can be adjusted to allow the best work (efficiency) and the lowest incidence of stop marks and / or starting marks (quality).

For example, if we have a fabric with a weave plain (1/1) with a total cover factor of 31.5, with the maximum cover for 37, then we say 31.5 / 37 is equal to 85% of tupidity; This fabric can be considered heavy style.

The warp density: It is important to know the amount of warp per reed, if the style has 2 warps per tooth, 3 warps per tooth or more. Also, it is important to know the number of teeth per centimeter. This information will help us to know with what ease or difficulty the warp will crossing in their movement to form the shed. This will help us to regulate the previous shed appropriate to the weave or fabrics.

Weave of fabric: Knowing if the fabric is plain, twill, satin or dobby; also if it is a light, heavy or neutral weave will help us to regulate the appropriate posterior shed.

In addition, the shed must have certain important basic

Gap: Depending the warp density, that is, the ease or difficulty of the warp to separate from each other during the shedding movement, different degrees of gap can be adjusted to help the warp pairs cross at different times allowing a better separation, the best gap frame is achieved in cam motion shed former, because makes the separation at the crossing shed moment.

Tension: According to the yarn title, the type of material, the amount of yarns, the preparation conditions, among other factors, the appropriate warp tension must be adjusted.

The Anterior Shed: The separation of yarns formed between the beat-up and the needle (frame) is called “anterior shed”. As an initial basic adjustment, you should seek for the smallest possible shed angle, sufficient for a clean weft insertion. For an adjustment it will be necessary to control the shed from the beginning of the insertion to the end of it, being at 180° after the crossing of the shed a maximum position that will show us the appearance or formation of the shed. There are two types of anterior shed: Anterior shed symmetrical: The yarns of the upper shed and of the lower shed form closed lines. To form a shed symmetrical angle the opening of the frames is increasing, therefore they have different tensions.

Applications: y Filament fabrics, warp with little hairiness. y Lightweight fabrics, easily separated warp. y Fabrics with a low density of warp.

Anterior shed asymmetrical: The yarns of the upper shed and / or the lower shed form different layers (different lines)

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COVER STORY Applications: y Fabrics with warp hairiness difficult to separate. y Fabrics with a high density of warp per comb tooth.

Example:

Is possible to regulate different variants of shed asymmetric:

Frame 5 and 6 cross to 300

Frame 1 and 2 cross to 320 ° Frame 3 and 4 cross to 310 °

Used in basic fabrics (taffeta, twill, satin) to separate in different layers.

It is possible to use combinations of these three variants according to the complexity or need, taking care that one of them does not negatively influence the other, so that it decrease or cancel the obtained advantage.

Example:

Effects of Shed Crossing:

• In ligaments with four frames

(reference of degrees for a loom with beat-up 0°)

1st frame = basic adjustment+ 0 mm

1. Early Crossing: 290° - 310°

2nd frame = basic adjustment + 1 mm or 2mm

2nd frame = basic setting

y The filling is dragged with more friction and less tension in front of the reed, this allows it to better accommodate the beat-up. y The filling has less contraction. y Is favorable in heavy fabrics and wavy marks problems. y It does not favorable fabrics with hairiness yarns since having more friction creates more pilosity. y Presents a more closed aspect of the fabric.

3rd frame = basic adjustment + 2 mm or 4mm

2. Standard Crossing: 310° - 320°

4th frame = basic adjustment + 2 mm or 4mm

3. Delayed Crossing: 320° - 350°

2. With shed angle (opening):

y The inserted filling is dragged without creating any tension as it is softer dragged to the front beat-up. y We take better care of the filling. y Does not favor heavy fabrics. y The filling loses some of its tension, favorable for weak and hairiness warp. y It can cause vertical reed marks, rapier guides, projectile or relay nozzles. y The fabric has greater force the beat-up.

1. With shed height:

3rd frame = basic adjustment + 2 mm or 4mm 4th frame = basic adjustment + 3 mm or 6mm • Taffeta of four frames 1st frame = basic setting

Used in special fabrics that combine ligaments with different elongation points, it consists of giving different angles according to the ligament.

Example: The frames that correspond to the twill that has more elongation should be given less opening than the frames that correspond to the taffeta that has less elongation.

In this way it is about compensating or equaling warp tensions; remember that having more opening this warp stretches more and needs to recover this elongation.

3. With shed crossing: Used only in cam motion, mainly in articles with high warp density and difficult separation in needle and reed, by giving different shed crossing the pairs of frames will cross at different times, having a better separation.

The Posterior Shed: Posterior shed symmetrical: The support of the fabric in the anterior shed is the temple profile. This forms a line with the feeler roll.

In this way a symmetric line is obtain; here the warp of the upper shed and the lower shed have the same tension. So the warp are better taken care.

It can be used as a basic adjustment for light fabrics with low density, low cover factor, fabrics with weak warps, with loops warp.

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COVER STORY Posterior shed asymmetrical:

the rails.

Upwards: The height of the feeler roll adjusted above the point of symmetry.

Posterior shed intermediate:

With this adjustment, the lower shed have more tension

The back rest adjusted in intermediate position. Is possible obtain a better care of the warps since the distance to be controlled is greater.

It can be used as a basic adjustment in lightweight fabrics of 4 to more frames, in weak warps and with little elongation.

Posterior shed long:

and the upper shed have less tension. Thus, a beat-up effect is produced, higher weft densities can be possible obtain since the filling are placed one on top of the other achieving a more closed appearance of the fabric.

It can be used as a basic setting in heavy fabrics such as denim, canvas, awnings, etc., as well as in poplin to improve the striped appearance of the fabric.

The backrest adjusted in position farthest from the frames.

With this shed is possible to compensate better the warp tensions caused by warps with different ligaments, since the distance to be controlled is much greater.

It can be used on fabrics with weak warps and special fabrics with different elongation points.

When working with cam motion, it is possible to achieve this effect using asymmetric eccentrics with the longest position down, so we do not need to give a lot of height to the feeler roll, favoring ergonomics.

Down: The height of the feeler roll adjusted below the point of symmetry.

With this adjustment, the upper shed have more tension and the lower shed have less tension. It can be used in fabrics where the highest load is woven upwards and is favorable for the best distribution and separation of the warps.

When working with cam motion, it is possible to achieve this effect using asymmetric cams wi th the longest position upwards; in this way we do not need to lower so much the height of the feeler roll.

Other Adjustment that Influence in the Posterior Shed: Warp stop adjustment: The influence of the profundity and height of the Warp stop,is also important for a good shed and a good appearance of the fabric.

Warp stops Profundity: 1. If we adjust the warp stop profundity more close to the weaver (forward):

Posterior shed short: The back rest adjusted in position as more close to frames.

I n this position the warp tension is bigger because the distance is shorter; a better separation of the warps is obtained in a way that favorable in hairiness warps.

It can be used in heavy fabrics and up to 8 frames since more frames can cause the action of the shed to raise the forks on their rails causing false stop warps or damaging

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y The warps are separated more easily, favorable for hairiness warps. y Improves the warp tensions in both layers of warps achieving a cleaner shed formation. y When working with 6 or more frames, it can happen that the warps raise the forks causing damage to the warp rails and the warp yarns. This movement of the forks also causes tension differences, producing an uneven effect most notorious towards the selvedges.

2. If we adjust the warp stop profundity more farther from the weaver (back): y It is used for weak warps and of different tensions, to better care and control the warp, reduces the formation of specks and hanged warps.

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COVER STORY Warp stop height: y In lightweight fabrics, care must be taken that the support of the warp stop does not deflect the warps, causing tension variation, since this may cause starting marks. y In weak warps or low sizing, the height of the warp stop be adjusted to reduce or eliminate the friction of the yarn.

Use the deflection cylinder: It is used to lighten the load of the feeler roll when we work heavy fabrics, with a high cover factor.

The deflection cylinder can be adjusted in two different positions, according to profundity and height. It must be said that the deflection cylinder withstands most of the warp tension.

When working light fabrics, weak warps that produce breaks, it is preferable to remove the deflection cylinder, in this way the warp tension is better controlled.

This tension will depend on the amount of warps, title, material, sizing quality, height and angle frame adjustments, and fabric density.

It is difficult to define a standard tension, due to the influence of different factors mentioned above, in practice and with the knowledge of said factors, the correct warp tension will be that which does not cause warp breaks (high tension), nor cause loops warp or fillingstop due to tangled or warp breaks during insertion in rapier or projectile looms (low tension), as well as their influence on the appearance of fabric (beat-up, edge strength, edge formation) or starting marks.

The correct analysis of the defect presented and the appropriate adjustment according to the criteria explained will eliminate and / or attenuate the effect of the observed quality failure.

Warp tension: A correct warp tension is important for the formation of a good shed and as a consequence obtains a good efficiency and quality.

DARIO PAREDES VÁSQUEZ

Textile Technician (Lima, Perú )

PROBLEMS IN WEAVING INDUSTRY AT BHIWANDI, MAHARASHTRA, INDIA. Manchester of Power loom cluster ,Bhiwandi is not in a good position due to various reasons : • Yarn rates are very fluctuating, Yarn traders / manufacturer domination in the sector.

• Cost of Fabric is higher as compare to other places in India due to higher expenses, rates of wages, lands etc. Productivity reduced, as this sector fully operational only for 4-5 months. China’s cheap finished fabrics had broken the bone of Indian textile trade.

China’s finished cloth is equal to Indian raw materials.

• No New labour available due to lack of training in power loom sector. Shortage of labours is the chronic pain to textile weavers.

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• •

•

High power costs as compare to other state is also one of the major concerns for Bhiwandi weavers.

Ease of Business getting worsen due to GST, VAT, industrial safety standards. Bureaucracy of Indian Government making Bhiwandi weavers life miserable.

Working outside Bhiwandi customer is a nightmare, due to payment delay and defaulter. Legal, Police and Financial system not supporting to weavers. Weaving business is at high risk as no profit gain, power looms are selling at scrap rates. After agriculture, textile sector has become bankrupt & suicide zone.

Views by Weaver from Bhiwandi, Maharashtra, INDIA.

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COVER STORY

DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC DEFECTS Generally fabric defect is any abnormality in the Fabric that hinders its acceptability by the consumer. Fabric is produced with interlacement of warp and weft yarn or loop formation of yarn. During manufacturing of fabric various types of defects occur in fabric. Some fabric faults are visible and some faults are invisible. In this article I will discuss on visible faults of fabric with appropriate pictures.

C. Missing or broken end: The absence of a complete warp thread or part of a warp thread.

D. Tight or slack end: A warp thread, or part of a warp thread, that is tighter or slacker than the surrounding normal ends.

E. Missing or broken end: The absence of a complete warp thread or part of a warp thread.

Visible faults or defects in fabric may be result from the following reasons. They are: y Defects resulting from faulty yarn y Faulty weaving process y Incorrect dyeing and finishing processes These faults have a visible effect on a fabric, comprising all the disproportions within the structure of the textile material that interfere with its end use. If these faults are not detected early, that is, during the manufacturing process, they can drastically affect the production process and the quality of the finished product. According to the BS 6395: 1983 standard, a fabric fault is defined as any feature within the usable width of a fabric that will downgrade the resultant garment.

Visual faults can be categorized as spinning, weaving, dyeing, and processing faults, as well as mending faults, which arise due to mistakes during the fault removal or mending process.

Here I will discuss some essential defects or faults that are appear in woven fabric.

1. Warp direction faults: Material defects in the warp direction occur in the threads and are defined as follows:

Fig: Missing or broken end

F. Broken pattern: Broken pattern is caused if warp yarn is broken when a pattern was being created during weaving.

G. Double end: A thread, or part of a thread, in the warp, which has accidentally been doubled.

H. Defective selvage: Selvage having warp yarn under high tension may cause pucker or wavy surface resulting in defective selvage. Besides, selvage may be thick and thin and may possess broken ends, temple mark, etc. Defective selvage may make the whole fabric defective and fabric finishing difficult.

A. Thick or thin end: A warp thread that differs in diameter from the surrounding normal ends.

B. Tight or slack end: A warp thread, or part of a warp thread, that is tighter or slacker than the surrounding normal ends.

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Fig: Defective selvage in fabric

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COVER STORY I. Warp streak: Streak running in warp direction. Group of yarns having different dye shades may result in warp streak.

Fig: Loose weft or Slough off or Snarl

d. Missing pick: The unintentional omission of one complete pick across the full width of the cloth

Testing for faults in the warp direction is conducted using a simple visual assessment of the imperfections in the fabric to decide which would be unacceptable in a garment. The number or faults in the fabric are then counted and their lengths are measured. Faults are tolerated if the residual cloth width satisfies the terms of the contract.

2. Weft direction faults:

Material defects in the weft direction also occur in the threads and are defined as follows: a. Thick or thin pick: A weft thread that differs in diameter from the corresponding normal picks. b. Tight or slack pick: A weft thread, or part of a weft thread, that is tighter or slacker than the corresponding normal picks.

Fig: Missing pick

e. Broken pick: A pick that is inserted for only part of the cloth width.

Fig: Tight or slack pick

c. Loose weft or Slough off or Snarl: When a bunch of or coil of yarn slips from the pirn during weaving then thick yarn bunches or coils appear on the fabric.

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Fig: Broken pick

f. Double pick: The thread or pieces of thread in the weft which form the woven structure but are accidentally doubled.

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COVER STORY 4. Bars in the weft:

Bars in the weft are defined as streaks, which occur over either the full or part of the length of the weft direction and which show up against the rest of the piece. Again, a visual assessment of the imperfections is used to decide whether they would be unacceptable in a garment. The length of the bars is also measured if they occur in a sequence. No tolerance is permitted for faults detected using this method of control.

Fig: Double pick

g. Trailer: Weft yarn that has been pulled inadvertently into the fabric during weaving.

Fig: Bars in the weft Fig: Trailer

5. Knot or slubs in the warp or weft threads:

As with the assessment of faults in the warp direction, testing for faults in the weft direction is also conducted using a simple visual assessment of the imperfections in the fabric that would be deemed unacceptable in a garment, followed by a measurement of their lengths. In this case however, no tolerance is permitted for faults detected using this method of control.

Knot or slubs in some of the weft or warp threads are considered to be faults when they are visible to an experienced person and when they spoil the appearance of the fabric. This visual assessment is sufficient to test whether the faults would be unacceptable in a garment and no tolerance is permitted for faults detected using this method of control.

3. Stripes in the warp:

Stripes or streaks in the warp, which extend either for part of the warp direction or over its entire length and which show up as faults against the rest of the material, are considered being faults in the fabric. A visual assessment of the fabric and the measurement of the length of the stripes are sufficient tests to decide whether the imperfections would be unacceptable in a garment. Stripe faults are tolerated if the residual cloth width meets the terms of the contract.

Fig: Knot or slubs

6. Mixed warp and weft:

If wrong yarn is used instead of correct one, this defect appears.

7. Faulty mending and burling, tears, holes and stains: Faults caused by mending and burling, tears, holes and stains are defined as follows:

a. Faulty mending: poor appearance of repair on the surface of the fabric.

Fig: Stripes in the warp

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b. Faulty burling: The presence of faults which have not been removed during burling. www.textilevaluechain.com

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COVER STORY in two or more parts, the total being equal to the required length. Once it has been verified that the number of the separate parts together makes up the length ordered, no tolerance of this fault is permitted.

Fig: Burling

Fig: Pieces cut

c. Tears, cuts and holes: Various forms of cloth breakage.

9. Reed marks:

Reed marks may appear due to defective reed, improper warp tension denting.

Fig: Holes

d. Stains: Areas of the cloth that have been contaminated with impurities.

Fig: Reed marks

10. Rough cloth surface:

If fabric is weaving with yarn, under heavy tension or unbalanced tension then rough cloth surface appears. In the weaving time, if un-steamed yarn is used then fabric surface becomes dull.

11. Shuttle mark:

Shuttle mark appears along weft yarn and is caused due to friction with the shuttle.

12. Shading:

Shading is a common problem for dyed fabric. When color variation occurs from wrong handling of fabric.

Fig: Oil or other stains

References:

e. Iron Mark: Sometimes iron marks appear in the fabric caused from rusted reed.

Design of clothing manufacturing processes by- Jelka Ger ĹĄ ak

These types of faults are again tested using a visual assessment of the imperfections and the measurement of their length to ascertain whether they are unacceptable for use in a garment. No tolerance of these faults is permitted.

Quality management in apparel industry by- Engr. A.J.S.M Khaled

8. Fabric pieces cut in several parts:

Fabric is deemed faulty if it is cut across the whole width

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https://www.slideshare.net/azhartip1/fabricfaults-81244352 http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2018/03/differenttypes-fabric-defects.html

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October 2018

COVER STORY Global Textile Machinery Market in-depth Research and Analysis Report for Forecast 2018-2023 Textile machinery is used in the textile manufacturing industries to produce Yarns, Fabrics, and Threads.

Textile machinery has a crucial role in deviating the global Textile and Apparel industry from labor-intensive production to a more industrialized sector. The constant rise in demand of textile machinery is due to growing demand for textiles. Apparel industry possess tremendous growth potential in coming future because of continuous changes in the fashion trends.

Textile machinery is used in the textile manufacturing industries to produce Yarns, Fabrics, and Threads. These textile machines are operated at various stages such as Spinning, weaving, knitting, Texturing as well as in dyeing. The textile industry uses machines to make clothes, other textile products and are used to create specific fabric effects like embossing, bleaching and mercerizing and so on. Mercerizing process is deployed to make cotton stronger and shimmer.

With the advancement of industrialization and modernized economy, major leading textile manufacturing countries are moving towards technology and innovation.

Thus, one of the major trends in textile machinery industry is the increasing usage of automation and robotics that help the textile industry in simplifying complex textile processes and improve speed, quality, and cost of textile manufacturing.

The main challenges in adoption of the automated machines are operating costs for a textile manufacturing industries, some of these costs could include research and development costs of automating a process, preventative maintenance costs, and the cost of training employees to operate automated machines.

Another major trend in textile machinery is the Printing technology such as laser printing Technology, which provides the uniform appearance on the clothes. Digital printing is preferred for complex and layered printing, while creative clothing are manufactured by using 3D printing, enabling the textile industry to upgrade with the latest machinery and equipmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and refine the textile manufacturing process.

The changing government policies and lack of systematic fiscal support at the state and central government levels are posing major challenges to the textile industry. The tax structure GST (Goods and Service Tax), Tariff Barrier makes the garments expensive for trading across the world, therefore textile industry requires support from both the Central and State governments to become competitive in the Global market.

The textile machinery manufacturers are frequently trying to make new innovations in the field of textile machineries, which offer great opportunities for textile industries to enhance the quality of textile production and to strengthen the position in the world market.

GIST OF LETTERS FROM UMARGAM INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION TO THE GOVERNMENT Issue: Granting of subsidy for electricity tariff for power loom industries in GIDC Industrial estate of Umargam on the line of government of Maharashtra Association delegates visited state government, central government, electricity board, Gujarat Urja Vikas Nigam to resolve their problem and pain of the industry from year 2016 to till now issue is not resolved.

GIDC have 100 units of textile weaving industry which is employing almost 15000 workers directly producing suiting and shirting, this industry has set up by Mumbai industrialists. They are facing stiff competition from same types of industries set up in the area of Tarapur & Bhiwandi in state of Maharashtra. Due to POWER TEX scheme for growth and development of Bhiwandi is getting good power tariff.

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Due to change in power tariff subsidy and rates of power, weavers affected badly.

Comparison of Various charges levied for low tension consumers in the power-loom sector GUJARAT

MAHARASHTRA

Fixed Charges

104.50 / HP

31.716 / HP

Energy Charges

4.6 / unit

2.835 / unit

Electricity Duty

0.10/ unit

0.295/ unit

Fuel Surcharge

1.61/ unit

0.145/ unit

Tax on sale AVG / UNIT

0.08 / unit 7.10/ unit

3.54 / unit

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YARN REPORT

GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND IN SEPTEMBER Cotton

Cotton Yarn

In India, cotton price movements were sluggish in September, the last month of 2017-18 marketing season, with some varieties moderating at a rapid pace and few gaining. Spot prices for coarser varieties declined INR4701,015 per candy month on month while finer variety of DCH-32 were down INR1,785 a candy. Shankar-6 cotton was traded at INR47,025 per candy on the spot market, down INR915 from last month while Jayadhar was dearer

by INR190 per candy during the month. Prices also exhibited a mixed trend in central and south India due to scattered buying and selling activity.

Cotton yarn prices moved in the other way of cotton markets in China and India. In China, markets saw limited changes in sales volume, and downstream demand for 32s cotton and cotton blend wrapped yarn increased somewhat. Offers for 32s moderated as producers intended to balance better sales of low-count yarns amid limited orders for finer-count yarns. Offers for 21s cotton yarn were flat. 32s traded at 24.28 Yuan a kg (US$3.55 a kg, up US cents 3) and 40s at 25.38 Yuan a kg (US$3.71 a kg, up US cents 4). Coarser yarn prices of 16s also gained at 15.52 Yuan a kg (US$2.27 a kg, up US cents 3). In India, cotton yarn prices did not move given the past hikes in cotton prices, although the market may trend lower as arrivals pick up. 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting rolled were steady at INR220 a kg (US$3.05 a kg, down US cents 10 due to weak INR) in Ludhiana.

Polyester chain pricing

Harvesting of new crop harvest started in Punjab and Haryana and arrivals will gather pace and possibly bring down prices soon. But chances of any sharp downside is limited due to dryness concerns in Gujarat. Further, if global prices remain at their current levels, a correction in domestic prices may result in achieving export competitiveness.

Cotton Futures weakened in response to bad US export sales report implying that demand for US cotton has dropped in the last few weeks as the world is focused on the crop and await prices to drop further due to lost Chinese demand for US Cotton. Futures could hit make new lows as trade war with China see no end in sight and neither side willing to give up much to make a deal happen. US cotton December contract lost US cents 3.89 in September to close at an average of US cents 79.83 per pound. Nearby October contract averaged US cents 80.02 per pound, down US cents 4.06 on the month.

Global spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index moderated US cent 4.92 on the month to average US cents 89.35 per pound. In China, prices for raw or seed cotton (with lint percentage at 40%) were stable in late September. The China Cotton Index inched up 27 Yuan on the month, to average 16,313 a ton.

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Polyester staple fibre prices jumped higher in the first week of September but edged down later as raw material cost started receding and downstream buying was facing sharp resistance at higher level. In China, with the National Day holidays starting from 1 October, downstream mills had limited order intakes amid notional market.

Buyers adopted cautious attitude and made small volume procurements with bearish outlook. Thus, polyester fibre suppliers cut operation to reduce production. As a result, feedstock succumbed to bearish pressure. Offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF were up at 11.04-11.30 Yuan a kg (US$1.61-1.65 a kg, up US cents 9) in Jiangsu and Zhejiang while the same in Fujian and Shandong were up US cents 9 at US$1.62-1.66 a kg. In Pakistan, transactions moved down after offers were raised early to mid-September and no firm deals were heard. 1.4D PSF producersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; offers were raised to PakRs.197.25-199.25 a kg (US$1.60-1.62 a kg, up US cents 10). In India, producersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; offers remained unchanged with 1.2D at INR95 a kg (US$1.30 a kg) and 1.4-2D at INR93.75 a kg or US$1.29 a kg. No revision were heard for October values.

Polyester spun yarn prices moved up in line with polyester fibre markets during September but declined sharply in the last week, more rapidly than the decline in polyester staple fibre values. The markets lacked support from upstream and downstream segments. 32s prices averaged 15.94 Yuan a kg (US$2.33 a kg, up US cents 4) while 45s were at 17.05 a kg (US$2.49 a kg, up US cents 4). In India and Pakistan, polyester yarn prices were stable to up, but weakness was apparent going ahead as upstream cost was softening late in the month. In India, 30s knit yarn prices rolled over at INR132 a kg (US$$1.83 a kg, down US

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YARN REPORT cents 6 due to weak INR) in Ludhiana. In Karachi, 30s were slightly at PakRs150 per pound (US$2.68 a kg).

Asian PTA markers surged US$88 month on month with CFR China at US$1,048-1,050 a ton and offer from Taiwan/ Korea gains at US$1,058-1,060 a ton. MEG spot prices declined US$33 during September despite seeing some early gains. The markets averaged US$895-900 a ton CFR China and US$886-888 a ton CFR South East Asia.

FABRIC REPORT WOVEN FABRIC EXPORTS PARTIALLY RECOVERS IN 2017-18 Woven fabric shipment (exports) in 2017-18 were seen recovering from the previous yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loss and that too partially. In 2016-17, woven fabric exports had fallen 12.5% year on year in US$ terms, botched by the demonetisation of high currency notes which hampered the conventionally cash based businesses. Further, exports were sluggish after the newly launched GST regime in July 2017.

The processes and rules were amended over the period but could not boost export. There was some sharp rises towards the year end, but mostly reflected the low base and year end target performance of textile companies.

The impact continued into 2017-18, as export continued to dwindle.

imported fabric worth US$0.6 million during the year.

Among the lost countries, the major importers in 2016-17 were Virgin Islands (US) and Liberia.

Afghanistan, Niger, Nepal, Burkina Faso and Mali were the fastest growing large markets for woven fabrics, and accounted for over 4% of total export value in 2017-18.

Among fast declining destination, the major ones were Dominican Republic and Costa Rica.

Cotton made fabric continued to dominate the basket of woven fabric export in 2017-18 accounting for about 50% total value of export. 100% cotton made fabric was worth US$1.700 million (INR10,800 crore) with volumes at 1,964 million sq mtr. The average unit price realization was at US$0.90 a sq mtr or INR55 per sq mtr.

Plain fabric exports accounted for 64% of all types of woven fabrics exported in 2017-18, down 1.5% in volume year on year with shipment totaling 3,320 million sq mtr worth US$2,200 million. Bangladesh, UAE and USA were the top three markets for plain fabrics during the year, accounting for 25% of total plain fabric shipped in 2017-18

Fabric shipment rose 2% in volumes in 2017-18 to 4360 million sq mtrs worth US$3,454 million or INR21,825 crore. In terms of value, woven fabric export was up 7% in US$ and 2.4% in INR. During 2017-18, 174 countries imported woven fabrics from India, topped by Bangladesh and followed by UAE and Sri Lanka. The three together accounted for 32% of total woven fabric shipped during the year. During the year 16 countries did not import any fabric as in 2016-17.

However, they were replaced by 17 other countries which

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Denim was the second largest woven fabric exported in 2017-18, with volumes increasing 19% year on year to 228 million sq mtrs and value up 20% to US$370 million. They were mainly imported by Bangladesh, followed by Egypt and Colombia at a distant. Denim exports to Bangladesh alone was worth US$199 million.

Shirting/suiting volumes inched up 4% in 2017-18 and were the third largest types of fabric export. Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and United Arab Emirates were the top destinations accounting for 40% of all shirtings/suitings export during the year.

Saree, twill fabric and women suit were other major fabrics of export. Furnishing fabric export more than

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FABRIC REPORT

Bangladesh United Arab Emirates Sri Lanka USA Senegal South Korea Afghanistan Vietnam Sudan Iran United Kingdom Togo Thailand Pakistan Italy Nigeria Saudi Arabia Egypt Indonesia Malaysia Mexico Germany Tanzania Benin China Colombia Turkey Kuwait South Africa Gambia Kenya Mauritania Cambodia Mozambique Yemen Canada Belgium Angola Guatemala Madagascar Ghana Congo Spain Niger Peru Brazil Nepal Australia Guinea Lesotho

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Woven fabric exports- Major markets '000 sq mtrs Rs crore 2016-17 2017-18 2016-17 2017-18 530,850 652,509 3,418 3,761 619,171 342,800 2,620 1,718 265,674 260,661 1,588 1,475 222,600 194,582 928 928 153,350 159,311 619 655 153,643 161,509 572 643 20,236 165,437 71 614 46,384 63,878 416 540 68,600 82,120 472 529 123,765 114,195 528 487 58,308 57,824 480 472 134,398 113,566 573 464 91,003 109,636 362 437 196,824 120,038 787 410 67,796 65,112 354 403 43,795 67,131 241 393 39,226 56,872 248 373 44,889 58,282 298 364 61,906 59,279 402 360 53,037 84,951 355 330 22,236 42,937 144 266 32,832 30,170 217 218 77,042 63,312 220 217 104,573 61,396 377 208 27,589 43,993 145 206 27,343 25,785 227 202 15,591 25,245 158 195 28,705 27,891 152 180 42,967 43,769 175 179 36,989 47,629 102 178 70,265 46,763 240 171 70,203 65,524 148 139 13,024 19,473 106 161 45,685 42,273 138 148 28,946 25,741 158 142 16,626 16,601 118 133 21,609 17,757 177 120 21,741 33,962 78 118 16,177 16,101 116 115 28,274 38,649 99 115 54,483 29,158 168 113 25,944 35,189 93 112 35,117 41,946 148 111 4,901 29,403 17 108 9,581 12,823 86 108 10,112 14,035 69 108 1,419 32,983 5 93 7,479 7,827 78 94 19,272 23,150 85 93 7,959 10,128 71 91

US$ million 2016-17 2017-18 514.9 590.1 394.8 269.9 239.1 232.2 139.8 145.7 93.3 103.0 86.2 101.1 10.7 96.4 62.6 84.7 71.1 83.1 79.4 76.4 72.3 74.2 86.3 72.9 54.5 68.6 118.3 64.3 53.3 63.4 36.3 61.7 37.4 58.5 44.9 57.3 60.5 56.5 53.4 51.8 21.6 41.9 32.7 34.3 33.1 34.1 56.9 32.6 21.9 32.4 34.1 31.7 23.8 30.7 22.9 28.4 26.3 28.1 15.5 27.9 36.1 26.9 22.3 26.5 16.0 25.4 20.8 23.3 23.8 22.3 17.8 20.9 26.7 18.9 11.7 18.5 17.5 18.1 15.0 18.0 25.2 17.8 14.0 17.6 22.2 17.4 2.5 17.0 13.0 17.0 10.5 16.9 0.7 15.7 11.8 14.8 12.8 14.7 10.7 14.3

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October 2018

FABRIC REPORT Woven fabric exports by type '000 sq mtrs Rs crore US$ million 2016-17 2017-18 2016-17 2017-18 2016-17 2017-18 Plain fabric 3,371,600 3,319,922 14,248 13,971 2,145.9 2,200.4 Denim 190,968 227,739 2,055 2,360 309.5 370.5 Shirting 244,588 283,807 1,669 1,673 251.5 262.7 Suitings 139,144 116,747 1,034 866 155.7 136.5 Saree 96,114 98,166 868 839 130.8 131.8 Twill fabric 20,718 83,733 144 587 21.6 92.1 Women suit 37,350 73,886 188 400 28.3 63.5 Voil 41,476 37,792 301 289 45.3 45.4 Furnishing 6,472 12,253 114 274 17.1 43.0 Lungi 12,294 13,650 97 105 14.6 16.5 Dhoti 18,988 16,921 98 80 14.7 12.6 Dress material 32,680 16,288 142 73 21.4 11.4 Jacquards 5,672 3,858 55 45 8.3 7.1 Dobby fabrics 6,797 5,598 61 43 9.1 6.7 Crepe 6,376 7,032 30 36 4.5 5.6 Canvas 8,921 7,314 40 33 6.0 5.3 Drill 5,840 3,966 32 25 4.8 3.9 Tafetta 2,288 6,933 10 23 1.5 3.7 Brasso 3,811 2,717 26 21 4.0 3.2 Sheeting 5,029 5,891 16 20 2.4 3.1 Georgette 6,003 4,236 45 19 6.8 3.0 Cambric 2,710 3,766 13 17 1.9 2.6 Parachute fabric 619 594 8 8 1.2 1.3 Muslin 2,949 3,035 4 5 0.5 0.9 Seersucker 632 496 4 4 0.6 0.7 Mulls 2,546 1,534 7 4 1.1 0.6 Casement 115 397 1 2 0.2 0.4 Bedticking 95 176 1 1 0.1 0.2 Dedsuti, dosuti 175 105 1 1 0.2 0.1 Grand Total 4,272,969 4,358,552 21,310 21,824 3,209.7 3,434.7 Ref : Fibre to yarn Export Statistis Various Report

NITIN MADKAIKAR

Textile Beacon

October 2018

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YARN & FABRIC REPORT

YARN & FABRIC PRICE AND TEXTILE BUSINESS MIGRATION The textile market place is trade oriented and governed by many factors in multiple complex combinations; today we will address “Yarn Price” one of the important factors that governs the textile business in the market.

The study of yarn price in relation to the yarn number is called “Yarn Price Index”, and in yarn number division as price per count, price per denier, price per tex. Example: 20’s Cotton Count sold at Rs.120 per kg will have its relative price index of Rs.6 per count and if sold at Rs.300 per 5 kg than the yarn will have price index of Rs.3 per count.

Like wise for Denier and Tex count as well.

The study of fabric price in relation to the GSM is more conclusive than for thread count as informative. The Clothing industry in relations to number of operations in accordance with price per operation in apparel making gives its price index.

Textile market has critical price concern, as the cost of fabric produced will be bearing 25% to 60% as yarn cost depending up on the origin and fabric variety. The same is the case with Clothing industry were fabric cost bears 40% to 75% of the garment or Apparel price. As the yarn cost bears major part of fabric cost, the increase in price affects the critical parts of business health and decides the future of T&C business from start of textile product cycle to end of product demand in the market. The price not only affects the regional market place and its future, but also affects the domestic and international market trade.

The textile market competes based on yarn price through its textile products for its survival in local market, domestic market and international market. The countries with lower “Yarn price Index” gets major market demand and export orders even if the country is under developed or developing country, and India being example of the textile trade from many centuries evident from names given to the trade routes like “Silk route” given by textile fiber.

The survival of local and domestic textile industry some times demands trade restrictions by the countries trade policy makers to impose anti-dumping duties, quotas to banning the imports which can be evident from full Cotton banned in 1686 in France, in 1721 in England, when East India Company imported 15 million yards per annum of Cotton textiles between 1670 and 1760, to recent example in India being government very recently increase in import duty from 10% to 20% for Chinese textile to India to provide cover to synthetic textile domestic industry of Surat.

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In the recent past India has seen the textile and Clothing both trades shifting to neighboring Asian counties like Bangladesh, Indonesia, and Vietnam with big brands investing in to countries looking at “Price Index”, Indian textile and Clothing Industry with sound educations and R&D Institution back ground the business flowing and flourishing out side India has raised concern about future of domestic and export market for Indian textile and Clothing industry. The same is the case with textile and clothing machinery manufacturing industry struggling for its recovery to regain its glory.

The price of yarn in tern feeds the entire textile and clothing value chain from value proposition for investor to customer loyalty program, and in best and worst case results in to healthy leading industry to sick and obsolete death.

The encouragement to revival strategy for T&C industry depends upon the viewing angle and side represented by industry stack holders, key roll played by price and cost management decides the out come from the industry.

In present the T&C industry face tuff competition from Chinese import, in spite of the transportation cost from China to India, the price offered by Chinese textile and Apparels are in many case at par to raw material cost in India, there by putting serious threat to T&C industry and to synthetic T&C sector in particular as Cotton exported to China and there after T&C goods made out of Cotton can not compete the India due to “Price Index” in Cotton sector, still mass scale Chinese industrialization and Chinese Government under next five year plan approving promotion of “IP, Innovations and Research & Development” under implementation in to grass root level puts big question mark to Indian T&C industry were survival is the present industry agenda and R&D sector institutional research is Government of India contribution to the industry.

Other side Chinese export is about eight times the Indian exports being at 5% of the World total textile export. The big volume importing brands from west are squeezing the price of there products to practically un-imaginable level and demanding further decline in price point for T&C products. The 100% Polyester finished dyed fabric with surface finish for Apparel made in Indonesia at 60 cents per linear meter with big volume business demands, same is asked to supply at 40 cents from India without compromising on fabric quality parameters. The same big volume is demanded at reduction of 5-6 cents per annum with ever increase in volumes. The price rise in synthetic T&C sector makes the sector to loss the market share to Chinese exports internationally and to domestic Chinese

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October 2018

YARN & FABRIC REPORT import, and makes Indian T&C sector un-fit for export unless until the middle business structure gets resized and restructured under Squeezes from both side.

The Cotton textile and Clothing industry on other hand loosing its business to big volume buyers as they centering their supplies from neighboring countries and thus concentration on only non-bulk business with price benefits, and smaller volumes. The T&C industry in cotton sector is diversified and clustered which on one hand gives flexibility and on other hand restricting to big volume business with consistent quality offered by Chinese T&C industry at higher price. India in spite of Major Cotton growing country losing stacks as major T&C business to China, Bangladesh by the way of strategic restructuring of T&C and business model for markets across the world.

focus by the T&C sector as well as textile machinery industry sector. Unless until stack holders realizes there losing stacks and concludes to their lost identity & disadvantages to modernized industrial sector encompassing from west, the way ahead will be lost and late running.

As IP Patent filing from the developing countries is staidly increasing with available open space for new innovative ideas and break through technologies from West and East-Asian countries in comparisons IP awareness in Indian T&C, machinery sector is hard to find and discoveries loss their IP on brink of startup.

In contrast the geographic and wide cultural needs provide much needed price realization to make it survive through non-regular fabric varieties with range of price and profit margins and perform better than domestic industry average to exports. The new applications of T&C sector provides aver increasing fresh breeze to breath through heavy competitions.

The modern high speed and productivity machinery offering on one hand lower price index and mass production, on other hand simplified product manufacturing taking away price points as plain products. Availability of open space for complex and specialized textile and clothing products offer opportunities to expand their business prospects and grow with the demands.

Innovations and Creative skills is yet to be recognized for price reduction and Intellectual Property (IP) for bringing edge of competitiveness lacks both awareness and

KETAN THAKOR BHATT

Textile & Fashion Product Technical Design and Business Development Consultant

NEWS TEXTILES BODY URGES GOVT TO PUSH FOR DUTYFREE ACCESS TO CHINA Mumbai: The Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) today urged the Centre to negotiate with China for duty-free access to India’s cotton textiles as enjoyed by other competing nations, including Vietnam, Indonesia, Pakistan and Cambodia.

India was the net exporter of textile and apparel products to China during 2010-11 to 2013-14.

“However, the trend has been reversed constantly since then and India is losing business to nations like Vietnam, Indonesia, Pakistan and Cambodia, who enjoy duty-free access to the Chinese market,” Sanjay Jain, chairman, CITI, said in a letter written to the government recently.

He informed that Indian products carry 3.5 per cent, 10 per cent and 14 per cent duty on yarn, fabric and made-

October 2018

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ups, respectively.

“India’s cotton yarn exports to China has decreased by 53 per cent in 2017 from 2013, while Vietnam’s exports of cotton yarn to China has increased by about 88 per cent during the same period,” said Jain.

India exported USD 1,362 million worth of textile and apparel products to China in 2017-18, while the country’s imports from China stood at USD 2,905 million, indicating a trade deficit of USD 1,543 million, he said.

“Therefore, the textile industry body has urged the government to push negotiations with China to give duty-free access to Indian cotton textiles,” he added.

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SURAT REPORT 26 TEXTILE PROCESSING MILLS CLOSED DOWN IN 2018 The hope for the ‘Achchey din’ (good days) for textile proessing sector are gone in vein. Total 26 textile dyeing and printing mills have closed down in the year 2018.

A sharp increase in raw material cost upto 30% and the dwindling demand of polyester fabrics are the main reasons for the mill shut down.

Surat’s textile sector contributes to roughly 40 per cent of the finished fabric demand in the country. In November 2016, high-value currency notes were withdrawn, paralysing Surat as its economy was largely cash-based involving small processors and migrant employees. In July-2017, the industry was shut for long after the GST was imposed, rendering a big blow to textile processors, whose cost increased sharply along with compliance burden.

The poor condition of textile processing sector is on an account of a sharp increase of about 30 per cent in the raw material prices such as chemical, colour and dyes and other input cost like electricity, coal, the laboure charge and the weak demand of polyester fabrics from the domestic and international markets. Seven more textile dyeing and printing mills in Pandesara, Sachin, Khatodara areas have closed down in the past few days taking the total number of closed mills to 26.

Industry sources said there is another bad news awaiting the textile processors. The prices of dyes and colour, main raw material in the dyeing and printing of fabrics are likely to increase by 10 per cent in the first week of October. The reasons are the weakening rupee against the dollar, increase in the imported raw material and increasing crude oil prices. The industry sources said, The processing sector is dying a slow death and if this situation continues, more 8 to 10 mills will close down before Diwali festival.

Power loom weavers boycott GST returns over ITC refund issue More than 50 thousand weavers of the city has boycott the GST returns over the pending demand of ITC credit.

The powerloom weaving sector has unanimously decided not to file the GST return with the central government still adamant on not allowing the refund of the accumulated input tax credit (ITC). The decision has been taken by the Federation of Gujarat Weavers Association (FOGWA). The Association have started a campaign in the industry urging the weavers not to file the GST return, till the government resolves the ITC refund issue.

Sources said, the problem is with power looms being de-

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nied input tax credit refund. They pay 12 percent GST on raw material (yarn) and get a 5 percent GST refund when sell the raw grey fabrics. The weavers still need refund on the remaining 7 percent else capital to stay in business gets wiped off. Especially because the cost of raw material has spiked, again due to GST. GST has had a compounding effect on businesses. Under inverted duty structure, the weavers have till date not passed on the credit accumulation to the buyers and has treated as the part of its asset.

Sources said, there is no section under the GST law to block the ITC credit. The central government and the GST Council have blocked Rs 400 crore worth of accumulated ITC credit of the powerloom sector from July 31, 2017 to July 31, 2018. If the textile processors are getting the ITC credit, the powerloom weavers are also eligible for the same. However, any attempt to deny to carry forward of the accumulated credit will amount to huge unbearable loss to the industry as the weavers will not be able to expand or modernise their units.

Earlier, the Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) office-bearers stated that power loom weavers are unhappy following the notification issued by government, stating that the accumulated credit ‘shall lapse’. However, representation was made to change ‘shall lapse’ to ‘shall not be refundable’.

Rs. 28/Kg. Anti-dumping duty on imported nylon filament yarn The governmnet has imposed an anti-dumping duty upto Rs. 28/Kg. on imports of nylon filament yarn from the European Union and Vietnam. The aims of anti-dumping duty is to provide safeguard to the domestic manufacturers of this yarn from cheap imports coming from from the two regions.

Anti-dumping duties are levied to provide a level playing field to the local industry by guarding against below-cost import. The Directorate General of Anti-dumping and Allied Duties (DGAD) initiated a probe against alleged dumping of nylon filament yarn from the two regions. In its final findings of the probe, the directorate has concluded that the product has been exported to India from these countries below normal values and that the domestic industry has suffered material injury on account of such dumped imports.

The major uses of this yarn are in home furnishing and industrial application such as curtains, sewing and embroidery thread and fishnets. Import of this yarn from EU and Vietnam has increased to 13,799 tonnes during October 2015–March 2017 (which was the period of investigation) from 7,201 tonnes in 2013–14.

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SURAT REPORT The owners of 6.5 lakh powerloom machineries of the city are demanding additional benefit of 35% subsidy on capital investment from the state governmnet. To promote modernisation in the industry the weavers association

Weavers demands additional benefit of 35% subsidy on capital investment FOGWA has urged the Chief Minister to remove cap of 25 lakh capital subsidy. The state goverment is set to unveil its new textile policy by the end of October. FOGWA has written a letter to chief minister Vijay Rupani and state energy minister Saurabh Patel to invite association officebearers during discussion on framing the new textile pol-

icy for state.

In their letter the leaders said, the Maharashtra government is offering electricity tariff at Rs 3.50 per unit, whereas the unit owner in Gujarat is paying Rs 7.50 per unit.

The subsidy on capital investment is 35 per cent, while the women entrepreneur setting up units are provided electricity at Rs 1 per unit. In order to stop migration of power loom weaving units to the neighbouring Maharashtra state, FOGWA has urged to match the electricity tariff on the lines of Maharashtra and provide additional benefit of 35% subsidy on capital investment. The state government, through the new policy, aims to attract Rs 1 lakh crore in investment and create 10 lakh jobs in the textile industry over the next five years.

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October 2018

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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE

CLOTHING FROM BIOPHYL FIBRES Apart from the above major achievements, the industry progressively has seen major developments in the production of Technical & Industrial Textiles covering around 25 different fields of new applications. A huge variety of revolutionary products have been brought into the world market as a result of technological innovations in new fibres, yarns, fabrics, processing methods, dyeing and finishing. Unforeseen a few decades ago, these products have been successfully imagined and developed and now on the whole have brought dramatic positive changes in our environment and life-styles. The most exciting new markets for Technical and Industrial Textiles from a potential growth/value-added/profitability point of view involve the high technology or high performance applications. The forecast as to what will happen most likely in the technical and industrial textile world during the next decade is one of growth in spite of the current global financial situation.Global initiative has exploded in a big way in the recent years, creating an awareness of the impact our everyday life is creating in the environment. With an attempt to boost their sales, various sectors are enhancing their ecological credentials through the development of business strands, and through the manufacture of earth friendly products.

The need for truly sustainable options for 21st century life remains one of the most critical challenges facing the global community. As a society we need to find ways to encourage innovation in ways that drive energy and resource efficiency, reduce greenhouse gas emissions, develop a more sustainable infrastructure and encourage job creation.As a science company, DuPont has the experience and expertise to put our science to work in ways that can design in – at the early stages of product development – attributes that can deliver solutions that help protect or enhance human health, safety and the environment.Through our science, we will design products and processes that pass rigorous criteria for reducing the use of energy, water and materials and encourage the development of products based on the use of renewable resources. We believe this is a direct route to a successful, profitable business that add value to our customers, their customers, consumers, and the planet.

Through science, the world is safer, more efficient and more comfortable – a better place. It is science that has provided the foundation for every historic breakthrough at DuPont since its creation more than 200 years ago.Today, nothing has changed. It is still our unmatched ability to harness science to create new products, processes and applications that makes DuPont a leader. Nomex®, Teflon®, Tyvek®, Kevlar®... the list of DuPont breakthroughs is long and impressive indeed, and it is growing. Never satisfied to rest on its past accomplishments, DuPont

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laboratories are, right now, developing the next generation of scientific breakthroughs. DuPont manages its research process prudently, striving to maximize outcome and minimize risk.

Production of Biophyl Fibre The only difference between Biophyl polyester and standard polyester is the raw material used . In normal polyester manufacturing Ethylene Glycol is used which is obtained from petroleum.But in case of Biophyl the ethylene glycol used is derived from corn sucrose known as Bio-PDO . Firstly the innovative polyester polymer (PTT –Polytrimethyleneterephthalate) also known as Sorono polymer is made then melt spinning takes place as usual . It is called ECO –Polyester fibre/yarns .It is manufactured by the European polyester producer with the brand name “Biophyl “ using DuPont’s Bio-PDO polymer .

The Biophyl fibre is made using polyethylene terephthalate (PTT) ,a special polyester –like polymer,where the petroleum –based glycol is replaced with sucrose from corn.

This resource is renewable and therefore reduces the dependability on petro-chemicals ,which is the classical raw material for polyester . This is an important step towards achieving sustainability for polyester textiles .Since producing the polymer consumes 30% less energy and reduces CO2 emissions by 63% in comparison to nylon 6, Biophyl also offers additional skin benefits such as fluid, silky and comfortable and it dries quickly.

Further energy reductions can be achieved during the dyeing and finishing of Biophyl fabrics as compared to regular polyester , these fabrics can be dyed at lower temperatures and in a shorter process time . BIOPHYL™ fabrics offer additional values to the user: They are easy to care for and have a unique soft hand together with excellent stretch and recovery.

These beneficial end-use properties derive from a unique, semi-crystalline molecular structure featuring a pronounced “kink” which gives special in-use properties superior to either nylon or standard polyester . “The use of yarns made with these polymers contributes to energy savings and a reduction of greenhouse gases,” said Advansa. “In comparison to fossil fuel-based nylon, the production of this polymer consumes 30-40 % less energy and results in 50-60% less greenhouse gas emissions,” it claimed. Using standard available dyes, ‘Biophyl’ fabrics can be dyed at lower temperatures than regular polyester, without requiring pressure or chemical carriers,” said Advansa, “The special polymer molecule enables the crystalline structure of the fibre to begin accepting the dye pigment at approximately 85ºC. Full depth of colour is achieved at 110°C, with outstanding wash fastness.”

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October 2018

SUSTAINABLE FIBRE With close to 300 thousand metric tons of fibre extrusion, ADVANSA is, by far, the largest manufacturer of polyester fibre products in its operating region of Europe, Middle East and Africa. ADVANSA produces polyester staple fibre and filament yarn, both POY and textured, serving customers in the main end use markets with an extensive range of products for all sectors. Production takes place at three different sites, based in two countries : Germany and Turkey. All sites are ISO registered with integrated quality management and customer support services. The company’s leadership position is reinforced by a strong portfolio of branded and speciality fibres, backed by significant ongoing investment in research and development and upstream integratio ADVANSA uses DMT (Di-Methyl Terephthalate) as a raw material in the production of its polyester fibres.

Produced at the Adana site, DMT is used in particular for end-products and semi-finished products such as synthetic fibres, films and other polymer materials and materials for the packaging industry. Polyester Polymer Solutions, which manufactures specialty products, is split in two: homo- and copolymers. These polyester polymers are used by manufacturers of POY yarns and films, Properties of BIOPHYL™ fabrics Fabrics made with Biophyl are said to be very soft.

“Stress-strain tests demonstrate that flat yarns made with this polymer are softer than nylon at the same denier, because less effort is required to bend the fibres,” said the company referring to the unique molecular structure of the polymer. Research has also shown that a fully drawn flat yarn made with the Bio-PDO containing polymer recovers 100% from an approximately 120% strain. Textured yarns, offer up to 145% stretch with 100% recovery and are said to provide greater bulk and cover than nylon, using the same amount of fibre. Fibres that contain these polymers have a very soft hand-feel, comfort stretch and recovery, easy dyeability, natural stain resistance and easy-care characteristics.

recovers 100% from an approximately 120% strain. Even at higher strain levels, fibres recover completely, returning to their initial form. Textured yarns, offer up to 145% stretch with 100% recovery. And provide greater bulk and cover than nylon, using the same amount of fibre. These characteristics are comparable to PBT yarns, another ADVANSA product that offers stretch recovery (widely used in the Denim industry).

3.Easy dyeability : Using standard available dyes, BIOPHYL™ fabrics can be dyed at lower temperatures than regular polyester, without requiring pressure or chemical carriers. The special polymer molecule enables the crystalline structure of the fibre to begin accepting the dye pigment at approximately 85ºC. Full depth of colour is achieved at 110°C, with outstanding wash fastness.

4. Heatsetability : For easy care, BIOPHYL™ fabrics are heat settable. Heat setting does not diminish the stretch and recovery capacity of BIOPHYL

End Uses of Biophyl Fabrics y Swimwear : BIOPHYL™ fabrics make a splash in swimwear with colours that are rich, deep and vibrant.

Prints retain their clarity and sharp definition, swim after swim. Colours also last longer because of its superior UV and chlorine resistance. y Active wear : BIOPHYL™ fabrics give consumers the freedom to enjoy life with easy care adaptability, long lasting good looks and relaxed comfort. y Intimate Apparel :Fabrics with incredible softness, fluid drape, and the second skin comfort customers want in lingerie and other intimate apparel products.

BIOPHYL™ fabrics are designed for today’s carefree comfortable lifestyle. y Ready to Wear :BIOPHYL™ fabrics offer a soft and fluid drape, elasticity and easy-care good looks consumers demand in fashion, casual wear and work wear.

Other qualities of Biophyl are thermostability ,UV/chlorine resistance ,ironability and certification according to the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 with the highest possible Class I, which also includes the category for babies.

Biophyl also combines the advantages of sustainability with the performance of polyester products .In addition ,it has the positive quality of absorbing less moisture than polyamide does; it dries very quickly ,repels dirt and is extremely durable .

1.Softness

Both flat and textured yarns bring exceptional new level of softness to any fabric. Stress-strain tests demonstrate that flat yarns made with this polymer are softer than nylon at the same denier, because less effort is required to bend the fibres.

2.Stretch Recovery : Research shows that a fully drawn

DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

flat yarn made with this polymer containing Bio-PDO™

October 2018

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MACHINERY UPDATE MACHINERY MAINTENANCE AUDIT A TOOL TO KNOW THE STATUS OF YOUR TEXTILE MACHINES AT USER END. What is machinery maintenance audit?

It is the inspection of the various aspects related to the machine maintenance like Cleaning, Lubrication, Rectification & Inspection of settings & timings, Maintenance Records, Maintenance Data & Maintenance Studies & their relation with the Productivity, Product Quality & Maintenance Cost.

• Necessity of rearrangement if any, of some of the maintenance schedules What is expected from the Textile Manufacturing Industry?

Have a scientific approach to machine maintenance by:-

• Installation of proper machine • Suitable lay-out • Proper erection & commencement of the machine • Training of the craftsman • Planned maintenance program • Collection of data & computerization there of • Technical audit/monitoring cell • Work co-ordination • Environmental condition

What it gives?

It gives the entire & clear picture of the quality of work input by various maintenance persons like jobbers, beam gaiters, fitters, etc. & the status of the machine condition i.e. the machine performance & its actual mechanical condition.

How it is conducted?

It is conducted by carrying out various studies like i) Performance studies ii) Assessing the actual machine condition i) Data analysis How it is helpful to the Textile Manufacturing Industry?

It gives an idea about i) the maintenance cost involved & the means to reduce it ii) the quality of maintenance labor involved & the need of training programs/workshops, etc for their up- gradation iii) the type & the number of machine breakdowns & downtime on them, & the means to reduce them iv) the number & life of fast & slow consuming spares & means to improve their life v) the number & types of causes of efficiency losses & means to reduce them vi) the quality & quantity of lubricants consumed & the means to conserve them vii) the quality of Cleaning practices carried out viii) the need to introduce the type of maintenance programs like semi-overhauling, overhauling, etc. ix) the pre-inspection gives clear idea about • Quantum of work involved • Required machine downtime & man-power • Items to be replaced, if any • Help required from other departments like Electrical department, Mechanical Workshop, etc.

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Have a schedule inspection of the following aspects

•

Availability of the machine • Availability of the sufficient man-power • Adequate supply of quality spares • Use of proper tools & workshop facilities Follow systematic Preventive Maintenance programme which consists the following aspects • Manufacturer’s recommendations • Experience of good technicians & their opinion • Normal practices followed in the mills, where the machines are maintained well What happens if mills do not follow scientific & systematic maintenance?

Unexpected & Unplanned stoppages lead to loss to the company in following ways • Down time cost • Cost of repairs • Loss of material • Cost of wages What is done to minimize the down-time?

Entire checklist is divided in the following manner • Points which can be checked on running machine • Points which can be checked on short duration of machine stoppage i.e. lunch break, shift change, etc.

• Points which can be checked with longer duration of machine stoppages How Machinery Maintenance Audit proves to be a Tool for the Machine & Spare part Manufacturers to know the status of their machines working in the Industry?

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MACHINERY UPDATE pared with pre-owned imported machines What to be considered by the machine manufacturer while selling the machine ?

• Design of machine vis-à-vis ease of maintenance to the client • Availability of skill at client’s end • Availability of spares to the client • Ratio of production rate vs maintenance cost at factory level • After-sales service offered to the customer • Availability of all Manuals & drawings to the client • Standardization & versatility of the machine to the client • Sharing experience of other users to the client • Initial cost / capital investment & payment facilities to the client • Pay back period of the investment made by the client What is the experience of the machine & spare parts manufacturer’s at the customer’s end?

Some feed-back from the industry is that

• • • • •

Machines not able to achieve higher speeds as those of imported ones Machines not giving consistent Productivity & Product Quality Spare parts not achieving required span of life Machine breakdowns on higher side Cost of the new indigenous machines are always com-

The key(Tool) to minimize the above problems

We all are aware that nowadays even the Dye & Chemical manufacturers are also rendering free services like training the End User technicians & their staff in handling their products. This not only helps the End User but also helps the Seller in the proper utilization of their products to achieve the various claims they make about the advantages of their product. The same technology shall work in the Engineering field also; where “Machinery Maintenance Audit” can be used as a tool by the machine & spare part manufacturers.

N. D. MHATRE Director General (Tech), Indian Textile Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (ITAMMA) Bhogilal Hargovindas Building,

N. D. MHATRE General (Tech), ITAMMA

ECONOMY UPDATE

WHAT IS THE FAIR VALUE OF RUPEE? 65, 75 OR 80? sentiment turned around, Rupee was late to react. Despite the recent weakness, the Rupee still continues to remain overvalued in REER (Real Effective Exchange Rate) terms.

The recent steep depreciation of the Rupee has created headlines. Though the up move in USD/INR has been swift, there is no real reason for alarm as Rupee has just depreciated in line with weakness in the broader EM basket. On Year-To-Date basis, the Rupee has depreciated ~10% while comparable currencies such as the Indonesian Rupiah and the Philippine Peso have depreciated 8.2% and 6.7% respectively. Rupee simply reacted more as it had more catching up to do. When the broader USD

October 2018

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A USD/EM or USD/Asia move is not uncommon during a US rate hike cycle when shorter end US rates start heading northward (Refer to our article published in May where we had highlighted upside risks to USD/INR with a target of 71-72). The unwinding of carry-trades and a concerted exodus of hot money causes sharp moves.

The ongoing trade tensions between the US and China have dented risk sentiment globally. The People’s Bank of China has used Yuan devaluation as a tool to offset the trade tariffs imposed by the US and to keep their exports competitive. The weakness in the Yuan has spilled over to other Asian and EM currencies. In addition, sanctions on

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ECONOMY UPDATE Turkey and the economic crisis in Argentina have further exacerbated the move in the EM space.

Elevated crude prices have also dampened the outlook on the current-account front. Among stable economies, the ones running a current account deficit have seen sharper moves. When the crude prices were lower, our economy witnessed a positive terms of trade shock and this caused the Rupee to appreciate relative to the other currencies.

However, the relative appreciation of the Rupee is detrimental to our exports. The elasticity of our exports to Rupee is high as our exports can be substituted by exports from other countries. This explains why our exports have underperformed despite strong global growth over the last couple of years. This phenomenon wherein one sector of the economy benefits at the expense of the other is referred to as the Dutch disease. Moreover, a stronger Rupee also hurts domestic industries as imports become cheaper in relative terms. The fact that the Rupee overvaluation is now getting corrected in REER terms is actually positive for our exports and domestic industry. Exports contribute 20% to our GDP, and it is a major employment generating sector.

The recent steep move in the Rupee has caused some nervousness among importers and corporate with unhedged foreign currency borrowing. Many importers were compelled to take stops above the 70 mark, and this too has contributed to the Dollar demand. Seasonality has been against the Rupee as well. August has historically been a weak month for the Rupee. Defense related outflows also typically happen during this time of the year.

Though the REER has corrected from 122 to 114 since January, a further 3-4% up move in USD/INR cannot be ruled out over the next 3-4 months if further panic in the EM markets continues*. A developing economy witnessing productivity growth is likely to see its currency appreciate in real terms according to the Balassa- Samuelson framework. At a REER of around 108-109, the Rupee would actually be considered fairly valued. There are several triggers on the global and domestic front for such a move to materialize. The major risk events on the global front are developments on trade-related negotiations between US and China, the FOMC September policy, US mid-term elections in November. Whereas in domestic front it is elevated crude prices which can put pressure on twin deficit and correction in equity indices (Trading at historical high valuation of 28 PE multiples) are something to keep a close eye on. While the US Fed is expected to hike rates by 25bps in September and December, more clarity will emerge on the pace of hikes in 2019 in the September policy. In last meeting, the Fed committee indicated 3 hikes for 2019, whereas market is factoring less hikes.

The summary economic projections of the committee will be watched closely, particularly as Fed chair Powell had undermined risks of an inflation overshoot in his Jackson Hole speech.

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The Rupee could underperform its EM peers if crude prices remain elevated. Markets are pricing in a 75% probability of another 25bps hike by the RBI in the October policy. It will be interesting to see if the RBI changes its policy stance. The RBI has managed the Rupee well thus far. It has intervened in the OTC as well as exchange-traded markets to contain volatility and keep speculators at bay to prevent a repeat of 2013 like situation. It was only in the most recent leg of up move that the volatility has spiked up (It is difficult to recall a previous instance when the Rupee and the Equities have trended in opposite directions for so long. Throughout the Rupee up move, there has been no panic in Equities and that could partially explain the low vols). 1M ATMS vols have risen from 4.80% to 6.30% since 10th August**. The farther end of the vol curve has not moved much at all, causing the vol curve to become flat. RBIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Reserves have been drawn down from a peak of USD 426Bn in April to USD 401Bn now. Managing liquidity would be a challenge for the RBI. Continued FX intervention, corporate advance tax outflows and festive season related currency demand could suck out liquidity from the banking system. The RBI would have to re-infuse the liquidity through sizeable OMOs. There are risks on the fiscal front as well. The GST revenues have been undershooting expectations. The government has already reached 86% of its budgeted fiscal deficit target by July itself. Though this is generally the case as expenses are front loaded and receipts back-loaded, this year could be different as the government can ill afford to clamp down on spending, heading into an election year and indirect tax collections and divestment proceeds are likely to remain tepid. Any fiscal slippage would be viewed negatively by FPIs and could spook the bond markets.

Considering the fact that there is still some steam left in this Rupee up move, it would be prudent for exporters to hedge medium-term exposures by selling risk reversals so that they can retain participation in case the move plays out. (Buying Puts and Selling Calls). 1M 25d RRs have risen from 0.5% to 1.1% since the start of August and this would offer decent participation on the upside.

On the other hand, Importers can look to hedge through long side seagulls.

(Considering the base year as 2006, when the Rupee was hovering around the 44 mark, if we consider average inflation differential between the US and India at 4.5%, the fair value of the Rupee should be around 75.

The correlation between Nifty and Rupee has simply distorted today. A big fall in Nifty seems inevitable looking at extreme valuations and the way MSCI index is behaving, which possibly could be become the next trigger for Rupee weakness.

The span from 2006 to 2018 is a fairly long period and encompasses periods of calm as well as turmoil. We have seen three major panic moves in this time frame i.e. in 2008, 2011 and 2013. The Rupee should broadly track the

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ECONOMY UPDATE inflation differential. However, there are times when the Rupee can deviate significantly from its fair value on either side and those deviations can persist for prolonged periods.)

would typically associate with such a large move. That could have to do with the fact that fundamentally we are far better off now and we have accumulated significant reserves that can help us tide over such periods of stress.)

**(To make sense of the relative panic in EM space, while the 3M vols in IDR have risen from 6.5% to 11.5% since 10th August, 3M INR vols have merely risen from 5.2% to 6.2%. INR vols are still much lower compared to CNH, KRW and IDR) (Also, in 2008, when the Rupee had spiked from 39 to 52, the high seen on 1M ATM (at the money)vols was 25%, when it spiked from 44-53 in 2011, 1M ATM vols saw a high of 12%, in 2013, when the Rupee spiked from 5469, the high seen on 1M ATM vols was 20%. However this time around, though the Rupee has moved from a low of 63.50 to almost 72, 1M ATM vols have barely touched 7%.

We have therefore not yet seen the kind of panic that one

ABHISHEK GOENKA India Forex Advisors Pvt ltd

ADVT.

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October 2018

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ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION ity, reduce labour and increase productivity. Also LRT’s R&D team visits the mills for understanding customer requirements and provide better products.

LRT Lakshmi Ring Travellers (Cbe) Limited – LRT is participating in ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 to be held from 15th to 19th October, 2018 and will be present in H1–D23.

LRT is the largest manufacture of Ring Traveller globally and presently exports to 40 countries and is used in 75 Million spindles in over 6000 spinning mills. This testifies to the product quality and reliability. Its export growth is significant and is contributing to the overall growth of the company. In most of these countries, LRT has stock of Travellers with their agents.

LRT will be showcasing its recent developments in terms of new finishes and profiles in Ring Travellers at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018. The focus will be on increasing productivity to its customers by increasing the life of Travellers and also reduce the overall yarn breakage.

In the recent past, LRT has significantly improved its life of Travellers by providing different profiles, finishes and changing the manufacturing process. Continuous improvement is done by its R&D team for improving the life of Travellers and improving yarn quality.

One of the innovations which will be showcased at ITMA ASIA include, Platina finish Travellers. The co-efficient of friction between Ring and Travellers is significantly reduced in Platina Travellers which helps in achieving extra long life, higher spindle speeds and reduced start up breaks. It will be also exhibiting its other star products namely Sapphire Plus and Ruby finish which are already well accepted in the market.

In China , LRT is supplying to many big reputed groups with stock points in all major textile centres for quick delivery. These groups use LRT to improve the quality of yarn and to get a long life time with their Travellers. LRT currently supplies to over 15 Million spindles throughout China and is present in all textile spinning provinces. The agents of LRT has stocks in multiple locations in China to cater to their requirement of the customers within 24 hours.

The main strength of LRT is its service capability. Although Ring Travellers is a small product LRT has dedicated service engineers for each market. In China, like in all other countries, Technical support is given from Hongkong through Mr.Robert Chan of King March Development Limited. LRT also regularly sends its service engineers to the customer’s place for conducting various trials and helping the customers to increase the productivity by increasing the life of Travellers. Apart from Travellers, they also give free service in all other areas related to spinning which will help the mill for better house keeping, improve qual-

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LRT has a modern production facility which ensures consistent quality. Raw materials are procured from the best sources in the world. LRT houses state of the art testing facilities for measuring hardness, friction, micro structure analysis and surface finish.

LRT has a wide range of Travellers to meet the spinning requirements of any count or material. This makes LRT a One stop source for all their customers.

LRT has specific Travellers for specific applications. For compact or Compact Siro, LRT has EL1 UDR, U1 EL UDR Travellers, for synthetics LRT has U1 US UDR Travellers and so on to suit the mill conditions. Also it has developed different finishes to cater to the different needs of the customer.

In keeping tune with its USP “One stop source for Total Traveller Solutions”, publishes its newsletter regularly and participates in all major national and international exhibitions. LRT has a comprehensive website – www.lrtindia. com which contains all necessary information related to Travellers and is interactive in nature. The website had detailed information on Ring Traveller recommendation, Problem solving, customer support and product range and company details. It also has a comprehensive multimedia, interactive CD for the benefit of its customers.

2018 is a challenging year for the Chinese spinning industry. Only spinning mills which have value addition, can control costs and looking for automation can survive.

The focus now is shifting on increasing productivity by increasing the spindle speeds and LRT is helping the mills to achieve this ___________________________________________________________

.

RIETER • New digital platform: Digital Spinning Suite • Four new G and K models expand product range • Premiere for the Autoleveler Draw Frame RSB-D 26 • SSM with world first winding machine CWX-W • Modernization solutions for existing systems • Customized spinning systems for maximum efficiency and competitiveness • Premium-quality technology components With the new Digital Spinning Suite platform, Rieter writes a new chapter in the digitization of spinning mills. The platform makes it possible to operate and control spinning mills with just a few clicks. It visualizes potential im-

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October 2018

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION provements for the entire spinning process at a glance.

The Digital Spinning Suite offers more flexible and more accurate functionality than any other available solution; it is open to third-party applications. The new platform with the Rieter rotor spinning system will be presented at ITMA Asia; in 2019, this solution will also be available for ring, compact and air spinning systems. From mid-2019, the existing Rieter digital systems UPtime and SPIDERweb will also be migrated to the Digital Spinning Suite.

UPtime adds intelligence to the planning of maintenance tasks in spinning mills. Based on the monitored parameters and big data analytics, the system collects performance-critical data, identifies deviations including causes and indicates potential future errors or even failures.

UPtime optimizes the maintenance of spinning mills in terms of predictive maintenance.

Four New Ring and Compact-Spinning Machines Rieter launches the ring spinning machines G 37 and G 38 and the compact-spinning machines K 47 and K 48. G 32 and K 42 remain part of the Rieter portfolio.

The 8 series machines are ideal for markets where staff availability is limited and the requirements for flexibility and yarn quality are particularly high. With these all-inclusive models, customers get the benefit of the highest degree of automation, top performance and complete flexibility for standard and special yarns, based on an electronic drafting system drive, the integrated individual spindle monitoring system ISM premium and the integrated slub yarn device.

The 7 series machines were designed for markets where the shortage of personnel is not an issue and the requirements for flexibility and yarn quality are high. They allow customers a high level of flexibility due to their unrestricted application range with full machine length, even with all special yarns. The electronic drafting system drive reduces the downtime for article change. The integrated individual spindle monitoring system ISM basic increases the efficiency of the operators – and hence the efficiency of the machine.

The new LENA spindle, which is available as an option, facilitates further significant energy savings with the four new models. The compacting system “EliTe® Compact Spinning System” is available as an option on the three conventional ring spinning machines G 32, G 37 and G 38.

Premiere for Autoleveler Draw Frame RSB-D 26

Rieter also has interesting things to offer in the field of spinning preparation. The autoleveler draw frame RSB-D 26 celebrates its premiere in Shanghai. It impresses due to superior sliver quality, low production costs and easy operation and maintenance.

World First at SSM

The new CWX machines from SSM expand the applica-

October 2018

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tion range for winding machines. With the new winding machine CWX-W, power consumption can be reduced to 35 watts per spindle. It is the ideal system for energyefficient rewinding of cones used in weaving, knitting and circular knitting.

After-Sales Business Offers Modernization Potential Rieter After Sales improves the performance of existing Rieter machines through a range of modernization solutions. For example: The latest development from Rieter, the take-off unit, allows the UNIfloc A11 to increase production to a maximum of 1 400 kilograms per hour. Energy consumption can also be reduced by up to 20% and maintenance and spare parts costs can be saved.

Advantages of a System Solution

Customized system solutions for every customer need: Rieter enables spinning mills to achieve extremely high efficiency rates and a competitive advantage over the entire life cycle of a spinning mill. At ITMA Asia, Rieter exhibits practical, interactive examples of four different process lines. Exhibits shown are spinning systems with ring spinning machine G 32, compact spinning machine K 47, rotor spinning machine R 36 and air spinning machine J 26.

Premium-quality Technology Components Premium-quality technology components from Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and Suessen facilitate optimum performance in the spinning mill. These include brand new top combs Ri-Q-TOP 2035 (35 teeth) and Ri-Q-TOP 2040 (40 teeth) from Graf and the “New EliTe® Compact Spinning System” from Suessen.

See for yourself the many advantages on offer from Rieter. Visit us at ITMA Asia in Shanghai from October 15 to 19, 2018: Hall 1, Booth D01. ___________________________________________________________

ITEMA Colzate (Italy) and Shanghai (China) – Itema, the world’s largest privately held provider of advanced weaving solutions, including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services, has prepared an impressive product line-up for ITMA ASIA+CITME 2018 in Shanghai on October 15-19, 2018.

Itema in China Featuring a top-notch organization in China – Itema Weaving Machinery China – counting 150 employees and an assembly line based on the most modern lean manufacturing concepts implemented at the Company’s headquarters in Italy, Itema assembles the latest generation machinery in the world-class manufac-

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ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION turing sites both in Europe, as well as in China, with the same attention to detail and quality, reliability and performance guarantee that Itema Customers look for when they purchase Itema machines. Itema at ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 Visitors to ITMA Asia will have multiple chances to appreciate and study the Itema weaving technology, with a total of 15 Itema weaving machines on display, of which 6 in Itema booth (Hall 3 Booth C25) and the rest in Partner booths across Hall 3. Absolute stars of the Itema machines’ line-up will be two brand-new rapier machines, both representing the Second Generation of well-known Itema models, the R95002denim and the R90002.

Launched in April 2018, the Itema R95002denim already became the success case of the year, amassing interest and requests from all over the world. ITMA Asia visitors will see first-hand the extraordinary advantages provided to denim weavers by the R95002denim. Unparalleled cost savings, superior fabric quality and outstanding user-experience are the key words of the R95002denim which features breakthrough devices and enhanced skills guaranteeing an unrivalled competitive advantage in the market to denim mills. Saving is the crucial point of the R95002denim. Not only the optimization of the main mechanical components allows a considerable energy consumption reduction but the machine is equipped with the iSAVERTM, a revolutionary device, never-before-seen in the industry, that eliminates the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric thus leading to unparalleled savings. Designed and developed by ItemaLab – the Itema advanced innovation department, the iSAVERTM combines the most innovative mechatronic principles and provides the saving that the weaver never expected that would have been possible to get. Furthermore, for the first time in the weaving industry, a sustainable approach to fabric production is possible thanks to a significant reduction in resource use and wastage.

Itema R90002: presented to the weaving world for the first time at ITMA Asia 2018 Produced and assembled in the Itema manufacturing plant in China, the R9000 comes at ITMA Asia in a fully revamped version by borrowing some of the latest Second Generation technological advancements implemented on the Itema R95002denim.

The R9000 Second Generation will set the machine even further apart from its competition due to tangible and substantial benefits for the weaver. In fact, the R90002 has been implemented with optimized components and mechanical highlights leading to significant energy saving and performance improvements compared to the previous model. Moreover, the new machine’s ergonomy guarantees an outstanding user-friendliness by facilitating machine accessibility for the weaver when carrying out daily textile operations and the Itema Electronic NCP – New Common Platform – comes here loaded on a highperformance, super sensitive touch-screen console. The R90002 on show at ITMA Asia – weaving a fashion apparel style – is equipped with the Itema FPA – Free Positive Ap-

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proach weft transfer which - due to no guiding elements in the shed – ensures superior versatility. Furthermore, the R90002 will run with the Stäubli dobby 2678 providing enhanced speed and superior machine’s performances. __________________________________________________________

PICANOL Picanol’s newest rapier, the GTMax-i 3.0, will be shown for the first time to the textile world. The GTMax-i 3.0 is building further on the success of GT-Max and GTMax-i.

The combination of a redesigned gripper drive and extra reinforced sley drive as well as the integration of the future-oriented BlueBox electronic platform allow for even higher production speeds. Moreover, the look of the machine has been reworked completely, with a special focus on ergonomy and user friendliness.

In total 4 machines of this type will be on display at the show. On the Picanol booth, a GTMax-i 3.0 will be weaving a denim fabric, another one will be weaving a zebra style curtain fabric. On the Bonas booth a decoration fabric is running on a GTMax-i 3.0 with jacquard, whereas on the Tongxiang booth a GTMax-i 3.0 will be weaving label.

Product portfolio at ITMA-CITME Next to the all-new GTMax-i 3.0, four more machines will be present, completing the Picanol weaving machine range on display.

On the Picanol booth two OptiMax-i 190 cm weaving para-aramide and shirting are being presented. As for the airjet machines, two OMNIplus Summum will be shown, one weaving a bottomweight fabric and the other weaving sheeting. On the Stäubli booth a TERRYplus Summum with jacquard is weaving a high quality terry fabric.

So in total 9 Picanol machines will be on display, of which six on its own booth (Hall H3, booth F01). One Picanol TERRYplus Summum with jacquard will be on display at the Stäubli booth and one GTMax-i 3.0 on the Bonas booth. On the booth of Tongxiang a GTMax-i 3.0 will be weaving label.

Picanol in China As one of the world’s leading weaving machine manufacturers, Picanol has always had a very close relationship with the Chinese textile industry.

Picanol sent its first pioneers to explore the possibilities in the Far East, already in the early 1950s. Picanol took part in one of the first international exhibitions held in Beijing.

The growing installed base of Picanol machines in China,

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October 2018

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION as well as the increasing demand for a higher level of service and support resulted in the establishment of the Picanol Service Centre, which was set up in Shanghai in 1987.

The next step, in 1994, was the start of PST, Picanol Suzhou Textile Machinery Works, being Picanol’s first production line outside Belgium. The technology and organisation were based entirely on the assembly concept and quality standards applied at the company’s headquarters in Ieper.

Today PST houses a complete production unit with assembly lines, a mechatronics division, and a sales, service and spare parts organization. The the Chinese management, engineers and technicians have been trained in Belgium. ___________________________________________________________

SAURER Saurer Spinning Solutions, the specialist in staple fibre processing from bale to yarn, will present innovative new products, from the new card to new ring spinning and winding machines featuring the latest technology, at ITMA Asia, in hall 1, F01.

The international textile machinery expo will be held from October 15-19, 2018, in Shanghai, China. The company will show the carding machine, JSC 328A, that follows the structure of the main carding area of the JSC 326. The powerful performance of JSC 328A will result in a great improvement of spinning mills’ product quality and create immense value for customers, the company said in a press release. The new Zinser 72XL, a highly productive ring and compact spinning machine for large spinning mills, with the new benefit of maximum flexibility in the areas of fancy and special yarns, will also be displayed.

Premiering at ITMA Asia, the new ZinserImpact 72XL compact spinning machine is equipped with the new generation of the self-cleaning Impact FX unit combined with a new flow-optimised suction tube.

Saurer will present the Autoconer X6 winding machine.

It comes with the revolutionary Bobbin Cloud, the RFIDbased advanced material flow system that ensures maximum flow rates, maximum process reliability, and minimum personnel requirements. With a quantum leap in process automation, Autoconer X6 opens up a new dimension of efficiency with smart technology. Texparts will show two new products at ITMA Asia. The new Texparts high-speed ring of 100Cr6 ball bearing steel offers optimal running behaviour with perfect roundness and evenness, allowing the highest speed with fewer yarn breaks and less downtime.

The new Texparts yarn underwinding system has an ad-

October 2018

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vanced seal to lock out dust and is practically maintenance free. It also offers excellent cutting performance for special yarns such as Lycra. The company will display the Autocoro 9 BD7 rotor spinning machines. Thanks to its single spinning position technology, achieving previously unattained rotor speeds of up to 180,000 rpm and with up to 720 spinning positions, the Autocoro 9 delivers highly productive technical superiority. The semiautomatic BD 7 machine is also in a league of its own. It offers convincing performance with all package sizes up to 320 mm diameter due to cross-wound packages in Autocoro quality and integrated digital package quality control. Senses is an innovative control and analysis tool that furnishes textile companies with digital senses for more profits along the textile value chain. The innovative Big Data system collects, aggregates, and analyses the production, quality, and machine data of the entire textile fabrication process across all locations. During ITMA Asia, Senses will be shown to the public for the first time and visitors will be able to follow live machinery data on tablets and mobile phones.

___________________________________________

LOEPFE Loepfe will present a comprehensive portfolio of quality control solutions for the textile industry at ITMA Asia, which will be held in Shanghai from the 15th to 19th October and will include the well-known YarnMaster ZENIT+ for winding and the WeftMaster FALCON-i for quality control of high-tech materials.

Various innovative solutions in different areas of yarn quality control will be shown to ensure an interesting visit to the Loepfe booth for all visitors. New measuring results of the highly precise YarnMaster ZENIT+ OffColor feature collected in cooperation with a customer will be available.

The case study shows impressive results in detection of shade variations in polyester. The Loepfe employees will be pleased to provide more detailed information.

The increasingly popular yarn defect sensor WeftMaster FALCON-i will also be displayed. After the growing demand noticed from North America, Loepfe sees a similar growth in the Asian market for reliable yarn quality control of latest high-tech materials such as carbon fibers, monofilaments, multi-filaments as well as spun yarns in all material compositions. The optical yarn defect sensor removes smallest knots, fluff, filamentation, thick places and capillary breaks before being interwoven into the fabric. The sensor is being used more and more for safety-critical applications such as fabrics for airbags, tire cords, filtration materials, architectural fabrics and sailcloth where quality requirements are very high.

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ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION The Laboratory Solutions corner will also provide interesting information. With Swiss precision, Loepfe works systematically on its revolutionary laboratory test instruments. The focus during the ITMA Asia will be on the YARNMAP which provides a tremendous increase in yarn testing efficiency with regard to time, space, maintenance and operator attendance. All kinds of short and long staple yarns are tested fully automatically while, at the same time, preparation products of the spinning mill can be tested on a second measuring sensor.

We look forward to welcoming you in Shanghai at Hall 1 Booth C24. ___________________________________________________________

STAUBLI ITMA Asia, the most important trade fair for textile machinery on the Asian continent, is welcoming over 100,000 visitors to discover the industry’s latest machinery on the 170,000 sqm exhibition area. Stäubli will be presenting its innovations at a two-level booth in the weaving hall and at a second booth in the knitting hall.

• •

•

nowned LX and LXL electronic Jacquard machines Jacquard weaving solutions for naming selvedges that create added value for high-quality fabrics The latest high-speed cam motions and dobbies available for every application and every weft insertion system Carpet samples woven on ALPHA carpet weaving systems demonstrating state-of-the-art binding technologies

At the knitting booth in Hall 4, two sock knitting machines featuring the latest ingenious Stäubli automation solution, the D4S automatic toe-linking device, can be observed in operation. Knitters will see for themselves a significantly shortened sock knitting process.

Stäubli wants its customers to get the most out of their machines and automation solutions, so the company offers original spare parts even many years after the purchase – ensuring utmost longevity. A sampling can be seen at the booth.

Besides these two booths, various Stäubli solutions can be seen at many other booths in the weaving and knitting halls. ___________________________________________________________

Weavers and knitters interested in solutions that answer real market needs and prepare the textile mill to meet future demands are cordially invited to meet with Stäubli.

Weavers: Booth E01 in Hall 3 Knitters: Booth D14 in Hall 4

At the weaving booth visitors will learn about an ingenious innovation for a shorter warp-preparation process for colored warps, and see as well as the following exhibits

SAFIR S30 automatic drawing-in machine

• The SAFIR S30 automatic drawing-in machine for the preparation of perfectly drawn in weaving harnesses for a continuous weaving process • Two complete Jacquard installations in operation, demonstrating the payload and precision of the re-

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LINDAUER DORNIER High-tech boom in China: More and more Chinese textile companies are choosing weaving machines from DORNIER in order to meet the growing demand for high quality technical fabrics for aircraft parts, filters, automotive and safety textiles. At the ITMA Asia International Textile Machinery trade fair in Shanghai (15-19 October), the German technology leader will exhibit the world‘s most advanced weaving technology for producing high performance fabrics.

Audacious investment objectives, rising wages, enormous funds for research and development (equivalent to about 226 billion euro in 2017 alone) and emerging aspiration towards quality: China‘s evolution from the overflow production facility for the West into a high-tech industrial powerhouse in its own right shows no signs of flagging.

This trend is also reflected strongly in the Chinese textile industry, and is being monitored attentively at the Lindauer DORNIER GmbH (LiDO): ‘‘China has always been an important market for us, but since the demand for higher quality textiles has also begun to grow, it has become our biggest market“, says Wolfgang Schöffl, Head of Business

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ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION and an airbag weaving machine (at the stand of the Belgian machine building company Van de Wiele) will also be on display. The “Made in Germany“ label is highly regarded as a hallmark of quality in China, as is borne out by an ongoing project in the town of Ürümqi. An entrepreneur has established a showroom there with a dozen or more weaving machines to show how raw textile materials are turned into fabrics for an enormous variety of applications. Naturally, in such a setting the quality of the wovens cannot be left to chance: Every one of the weaving machines in the showroom was built by DORNIER in Lindau.

Unit Weaving Machines at DORNIER. In China, LiDO weaving machines are used to create fine scarves and elegant women‘s apparel from cashmere wool and silk as well as intricate airplane parts from carbon fibers. This last category is part of the growing global market for technical textiles, which is supplied with special coatings, airbags, tirecord and filters as well as much else which is manufactured in the Middle Kingdom on weaving machines from DORNIER. And the volume of these high-performance fabrics required just to satisfy China‘s domestic demand is enormous.

Flawless processing of high-performance fibers Let us consider filtration, for example: The fact that the Chinese city of Xi‘an cleans its air with the tallest antismog tower in the world (100 m) is convincing testament: cleaning air and water is a major concern in China. And this is one reason why DORNIER in Shanghai – for the first time ever in Asia – will exhibit its new P2 rapier weaving machine in its most powerful configuration (Type: TGP).

This machine is able to bring a reed beat-up force of up to five tons for producing wide, seamless fabrics for high density air and water filters. ‘‘ The textile is exposed to exceptionally high forces specifically for wet filtration; seams are weak spots, which should be avoided if possible“, explains Schöffl.

It is no coincidence that the rising sales of weaving machines from the shores of Lake Constance are closely linked to Chinese demand for high-performance fabrics both domestically and for export: The weaving machines from DORNIER have represented the gold standard for flawless processing of high-performance fibers such as carbon, glass fiber and aramid for over 60 years. ‘‘The greater the volume of high-quality fabrics China manufactures, the more weaving machines we can send them“, says Schöffl. At the same time, the division head continues, besides the technical quality the company‘s Chinese customers also value LiDO‘s aftersales and training services, ease of contact and fast response times.

“Made in Germany“ weaving machine showroom Besides the P2 TGP rapier weaving machine, DORNIER is also going to exhibit other machines at the trade fair: an air-jet weaving machine for manufacturing car upholstery

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___________________________________________________________

DILO GROUP Asia has been one of the most important markets for nonwovens production over many years. With lines for the production of artificial leather, geotextiles, filter media, automotive products and hygiene articles, Dilo has long been successful in Asia. High quality and efficient equipment as well as comprehensive service allow our customers to produce nonwovens efficiently and economically.

To further develop the Asian market, Dilo has opened a subsidiary in India near New Delhi.

This enables a closer relationship to customers as well as faster support for sales and service. DiloGroup delivers complete lines for the production of needled staple fibre nonwovens. In its 116 years of history, Dilo has always set new standards. Innovative technologies such as DI-LOOP, DI-LOUR and Hyperpunch have opened new markets and contributed to their growth. Current developments offer custom-made lines which do not only increase capacity but also fulfill endproduct property requirements.

Hyperlayer The production of very light-weight hygiene products on water-entanglement lines requires a high web quality and a low area weight. At the same time, the Asian market requires abalanced MD/CD strength ratio. To realize high productivity with these demands, Dilo has resumed and revised the principle of the camel-back crosslapper. The kinematic solution of the Hyperlayer lays down the web gently and precisely even with a small number of layers.

As the web is guided through the complete laydown process on both sides, highest production speeds (web infeed speeds up to 200 m/min), precise edges and a minimum of draft can be realized depending on the fibres used.

Compact line, carbon recycling A positive trend to lightweight construction in recent years has led to the substi-

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ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION tution of metal structures by carbon composites in large quantities. Until now their life cycle is not closed and the recycling of these components is a task to be solved. With its new compact line, Dilo has contributed significantly to the recycling of composites. Recycled carbon staple fibres are reprocessed into felt and can then be further converted to new structural elements. In contrast to most staple fibres, carbon fibres have characteristics (smooth surface, no crimp, low cross strength) which require adaption of web forming within the carding machine. With its compact card (DCL) Dilo has met these challenges and introduced a stable web forming process. The compact line also meets the requirements for a production of small quantities of needle felts made from other high quality special fibres like ceramics or PTFE. Dilo presented the compact line first in 2015. It is now in use in industry and research. With a card working width of 1.1 m and a layering width of 2.2 m, it requires a floor space of only 60 m². Hypertex Nonwoven filter media consist of a sandwich structure which combines the filtration characteristics of felts with the high strength of yarns or filaments. The HyperTex process allows the production of reinforced felts online and eliminates an additional stage for producing the scrim. In the HyperTex process Dilo combines a scrim fabric machine ofMessrs.

OnTec with a Hyperpunch needleloom. The structure derives its strength from needling scrim, upper and bottom felt together. Very high production speeds up to 40 m/ min can be reached. Infinitely variable mesh sizes in the scrim and a wide variety of different reinforcing yarns offer a great flexibility to the customer. The high efficiency in regard to fibre and energy consumption and the low space requirement are further significant advantages of this technology.

Visit us at ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 in Shanghai, hall 2, booth No. A23. We look forward to interesting discussions. ___________________________________________________________

COLORJET Colorjet India Ltd, the largest Indian manufacturer of wide format digital printers, will be showcasing its digital printing textile solutions at ITMA Asia in Shanghai in hall no. 5, booth A-20. The company will display two of its latest technologies—the Metro and Fabjet Grand— which run on pigment inks, the preferred choice of digital textile printers. “Wider variety, higher durability and a simpler post-treatment process is increasingly making pigment inks the preferred choice of digital textile printers. Pigment inks also exhibit the highest degree of durability in colour and light fastness,” Colorjet said in a press

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release. The pigment ink printing process does not need complex steaming and washing steps. Since the pigment ink is printed only on the top layer of the fabric without any chemical bonding, the textile fabric has to be only condensed at 150-170°C for a few minutes to fix the pigments. Consequently, the pigment printing process requires significantly less water due to the omitted washing step.

Pigment inks are suitable for a wide range of fabrics including mixed and blended fabrics and for the first time, Colorjet is offering a true solution, the Fabjet Grand, for industrial usage in digital textile printing. The Fabjet Grand is a 3.2-metre direct to fabric printer and is an ideal directto-fabric printing solution for creating large customised patterns for the home furnishings business. Heavy duty design with rigid structure makes the machine suitable for rigorous shop floor operating conditions. In adherence to China’s “12th Five-Year Technical Progress Outline”, ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TMAS The highly inspiring, exciting platform for the world to view the latest technological developments, ITMA Asia + CITME is happening in Shanghai, China. This time, Swedish machinery producers will be proudly represented by four TMAS members: IRO, Eltex, Eton systems and ES Automatex. TMAS, the Textile Machine Association of Sweden, has nine members, each at the forefront of their own specific segment, and with a long and successful history and a passion for textile manufacturing.

China has been and is an increasingly important market for the Swedish machinery producers. Not surprising, since the country is one of the most important production hubs in the world today. The dramatic technology drive shaping the Chinese textile industry is setting the agenda with automation and sustainability being the key drivers. As TMAS member companies are at the forefront of automatization and innovative production processes, they look forward to working closely with Chinese customers on this exciting journey towards next-generation solutions.

Swedish producers invest heavily in R&D especially because technological innovation is so inbuilt in the corporate culture of Swedish companies. At the show we will see inbuilt intelligence and utilization of data for custom-

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October 2018

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 INNOVATION ized production developed to meet real customer needs.

Asia + CITME 2018, include:

“We know and understand the Chinese market, and we realize the trends for the future that will shape the Chinese textile and garment industry. We work in close collaboration with our customers and understand the market drivers. This enables us to constantly drive innovative breakthroughs in order for our customers to stay competitive,” said Mikael Äremann President, TMAS.

Eltex of Sweden AB

“Swedish machines always deliver groundbreaking technology that will allow the customers in China to be flexible and innovative in their solutions to their customers. Local production and assembly of machinery are other Swedish ways to improve the customer experience and increasing demand for customized solutions,” said Therese PremlerAndersson, Secretary General, TMAS.

Eltex is a leading company in weft and yarn supervision.

The core activity is to develop yarn break sensors and tension monitors together with OEM customers. Close cooperation between Eltex and the machine makers is essential for the business.. www.eltex.se ES Automatex Solution AB We specialize in automated machines for the home textile industry. We promote new machines from our partner Automatex Inc. in Canada for this industry segment.

Today, we can offer solutions from full-scale production REPORT to small specialized production.

IRO (H3 C01)will be displaying their TABLE wide136 range of yarn www.automatex.com EXPORT OF TEXTILE ITEMS TO ASEAN COUNTRIES feeding equipment, that are optimized to meet the deEton Systems AB mands of advanced modern weaving 2012-13 2013-14 machinery.

2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 Countries

Rs Mn. Mn US$ Rs Mn. Mn US$ Rs Mn. Mn US$ Rs Mn. Eton Mn US$ Rs Mn. globally Mn US$ provides material handling systems Systems Eltex (H3 C10)will have their new Eltex EyETM Yarn Tenof individually addressable product carriers, BRUNEI 2.19on display.

103.43 1.71 system 126.25 monitors 2.06 119.51 consisting 1.83 545.73 8.13 sion Monitoring119.15 System The automatically finding its way to the correct operation. The the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and you are CAMBODIA 2079.09 38.18 2109.56 34.87 2369.2 38.74 2396.55 36.61 1643.12 24.49 systems are designed to eliminate manual transportation able to immediately detect any fault position. minimize radically increasing the time for INDONESIA 12850.42 235.96 15403.79 254.61 12585.27 205.81 14146.53 and 216.11 15066.52 handling, 224.57 Eton Systems (HS B14)will show their unique concept adding value to customer’s products.

LAOmaterial PD RP 8.11 0.15 13.19 to 0.22 0.7 30.23 0.46 17.37 0.26 for handling, developed create43.04 efficiency, inwww.etonsystem.com crease production and full traceability.

MALAYSIA 15887.74 291.73 16596.24 274.32 19207.91 314.11 16426.74 250.94 13974.46 208.29 ES Automatex (H5 D04) deliver high performance auto- IRO AB MYANMAR

1235.51

22.69

4467.66

73.85

4877.68

79.77

5424.24

82.86

4957.67

73.9

mated systems with high reliability, designed to meet IRO is the market leader in the development and producPHILIPPINES 3019.32requests.

55.44 3467.59 57.32looking 3616.53 for 59.14 2841.14 43.4 3552.41 52.95 specific customer Are you intellition of yarn feeding equipment, manufacturing and supgent, automated sewing units for home textile, bags or range of yarn feeders and accesSINGAPORE 8150.34 149.66 8220.07 135.87 7222.26 118.11 7393.03 plying 112.94 a comprehensive 6477.8 96.55 garments then make sure you visit ES Automatex. sories for the textile industry. IRO products are developed THAILAND 9992.74 183.49 12318.25 203.61 9116.36 149.08 10699.45 163.45 13585.1 202.49 The Swedish companies are very excited to be participat- with the most advanced technologies and resources, VIETNAM SOC 16787.38 308.25 26483.27 437.74 33132.01 541.82 23799.33 which 363.57 coupled 26222.63 with 390.86 unrivalled expertise and experience ing REPin the ITMA Asia + CITME show. The show is an exensures the production of high-quality products at a comcellent platform to view the latest technological developTotal 70129.8 1287.74 89183.05 1474.12 92296.51 1509.34 83276.75 1272.17 86042.81 1282.49 petitive price. ments.

Source : Monthly Statistics of the Foreign Trade of India, DGCIS, Kolkata.

TMAS member companies who are participating at ITMA

www.iroab.com

+91 99095 10008 + 91 99784 32203 Email :- kenyfabrics@gmail.com

fabrics Mfg.of knitted, Embroidery & Export fabrics

Manufacturer of Warp Knitted, Raschel, Circular, Raschel Jacquard Fabrics, Velvet Rapier, Jacquard Rapier Micro Valvet 9000, Warp Knit Fabrics, & Knitted Fabrics Factory Address:Plot no.46, 47, Shivdhara Raschel Park, Guy Pagla Road, Torrent Power gate, NH-8, Surat - 394150, Gujrat, INDIA

www.textilevaluechain.com October January 20182018 www.textilevaluechain.com

ADVT

Office : E-1526-1527,New Bombay Market, Near Sahara Darwaja, Surat, Gujrat, INDIA

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EVENT UPDATE

TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS’ ASSOCIATION (INDIA) MUMBAI overtaking France.

The Financial year 2017-18 has been a challenging year for India’s economy. The implementation of structural reforms including, demonetization and Goods & Services Tax (GST) had an impact on the GDP growth. The growth was slow, down to 4 year low at 6.7% in fiscal year 201718. The GDP was 7.1 % in 2016-17 against 8% in 2015-16.

It was 7.5% in 2014-15. However, the various proactive initiatives taken by the Government enabled the textile/ textile engineering industry to mitigate the challenges and revive from the recession. India’s GDP is expected to grow at 7.5% in the next two years.

Speech of Mr. Mehul Trivedi, Chairman, Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (India) at the 58th Annual General Meeting of the Association held on 27th September, 2018 at 06:45 p.m. at “Sunset Lounge”, Hotel Trident, Mumbai

Mr. Sanjay Kumar Jain, Chairman Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), my colleagues on the dais, distinguished guests and friends, I extend a hearty welcome to all of you to the 58th Annual General Meeting of Textile Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (India).

I am grateful to Mr. Sanjay Kumar Jain, Chairman, CITI and Managing Director, T.T. Limited, New Delhi for accepting our invitation despite his busy schedule, as the Chief Guest. I extend a warm welcome to him and would like to have his valuable advice and guidance to make the Textile Engineering Industry vibrant.

The Annual Report for the year 2017-18 along with the audited statement of accounts has been circulated among the members of the Association.

Before moving the Annual Report and the audited statement of accounts for approval of the members, I would like to enumerate the steps and initiatives taken by the Association to transform the textile engineering industry.

The functioning of the Government has been changed over the period of last 4/5 years so much so that it is for the industry now to take the full advantage of the schemes of the Government.

Economic Scenario Indian economy is showing signs of recovery on the back of strong support from all sectors. India has inched up its position to become the 6th largest economy in the world

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The Index of Industrial Production (IIP) was dipped by 4.3% in 2017-18 as against 4.6% in 2016-17. The manufacturing growth stood at 4.5% in 2017-18 as against 4.4% in 2016-17. The capital goods sector with an unfavorable base effect showed a year on year contraction of 1.8% in March 2018 as against an increase of 9.4% in March 2017. The sector is showing signs of revival which is likely to improve in 2018 due to increase in capacity utilization, productivity, orders, sales and investments.

Exports too are poised to grow at a faster pace in the current fiscal year. India’s exports after a gap of 6 year rose by 9.8% to US$ 302.84 billion during 2017-18 as against US$ 275.80 billion in 2016-17. During 2017-18 imports increased by 20% to US$ 459.70 billion as against US$ 384.40 billion in 2016-17.

The Government in 2017 announced various schemes for the textile industry for skill development and capacity building industry of the work force for three years which is keeping the needs of the industry. This is up to the stake holders to take advantage by integrating and coordinating with the Government in their endeavors.

I am happy to inform you that the Textile Engineering Industry is showing signs of recovery in keeping with the revival in the capital goods sector and likely to continue improve further in 2018 due to increase in capacity utilization, productivity, orders, sales etc. I am optimistic that 2018 would be one of the best years for the Indian textile engineering industry.

Production Trends The TEI has currently an estimated annual installed capacity of Rs. 11,000 crores per annum. The total provisional production of textile machinery, parts & accessories during 2017-18 recorded an increase of 4% i.e. Rs. 6,900 crores as against Rs. 6,650 crores achieved during

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EVENT UPDATE the previous year. The increase in production of spinning machinery was responsible for this growth. It is expected that spinning machinery sector might increase their production further during 2018-19. In Weaving Sector particularly in the Shuttle-less Loom category the growth rate was less due to uncertain situation created by the unfavorable procedures under the ATUF Scheme as well as adverse situation in the power-loom sector arisen because of the cash business. Synthetic filament yarn sector also recorded a decline in production while the Processing sector got a slight increase. In fact, many of the processing machinery manufacturers had done well during the period.

During the fiscal year the capacity utilization increased from 60% to 63% as compared to the preceding year due to increase in demand for textile machinery. We hope that the capacity utilization would improve during 2018-19.

Import of textile machinery rose from Rs. 10,098 crores during 2016-17 to Rs. 10,687 crores during 2017-18. The upswing in the imports might be due to improper HS Codes used by the importers. Several incidences were reported (unofficially) about the imports of used machines refurbished-as-new machines. Besides, low cost - low tech shuttle-less looms were also imported from China in large numbers.

Exports The export of textile machinery to the third world countries has increased. The Association is making efforts to help the textile engineering industry to increase its exports further. The export during 2017-18 was Rs.2,939 crore as against Rs.2,438 crore achieved during 2016-17.

We expect a good export during 2018-19.

Meeting the demand The periodical demand recessions faced by the industry has adversely affected the share of demand. The exports have gone up due to the steps taken by the industry as a whole and the association in particular. Yet there is lack of sustained domestic demand. At the same time, preference for cheaper subsidized imports by the decentralized sectors of the industry creates hurdles for the TEI. However, we hope that there could be better position during 2018-19.

We are aware that the Office of the Textile Commissioner and the Ministry of Textiles has been taking appropriate actions in this regard.

Measures for Growth Orientation TMMA has been representing to the Government regarding changes in the fiscal policy, removal of hurdles facing the industry and assistance required for improving the technology, production and exports.

There is an urgent need to ban the import of low-cost low-tech machinery; be it from China or from any other

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source. There shouldn’t be any subsidy on such technology/ machinery whatsoever that is available in the country. It is also imperative that the domestic manufacturing sector should be given financial incentives for indigenous development and supply of machines to the user sector.

This would create a positive approach towards increasing the productivity and employment opportunities. Export efforts of the domestic machinery manufacturers should be encouraged with financial assistance and short term/ long term credit facilities so that they may be able to double the exports within 2/3 years.

Development Council for Textile Machinery Industry The Ministry of Heavy Industries & Public Enterprises reconstituted the Development Council for Textile Machinery Industry for a period of two years. During the year, two meetings of the Council were held. The first meeting was held under the Chairmanship of Mr. Girish Shankar, Secretary, Department of Heavy Industry on 26th May 2017 in New Delhi. Mr. N. Sivanand, Joint Secretary and Member Secretary of the Council and representatives from various Ministries, Planning Commission, State Government, User Industry Associations & Industry, Research Associations attended the meeting.

The second meeting was held under the Chairmanship of Dr. Asha Ram Sihag, Secretary, DHI on 17th January 2018 in New Delhi. Mr. N. Sivanand, Joint Secretary and Member Secretary of the Council and representatives from various Ministries, User Industry Associations & Industry, Research Associations attended the meeting.

Various issues on developments of the TEI were discussed at these meetings and follow up actions were initiated.

National Textiles Policy The Ministry of Textiles is in the process of finalizing draft guidelines of National Textiles Policy. The National Manufacturing Competitive Council (NMCC) has formulated draft policy outlining “Vision, Strategy and Action Plan for Indian Textile and Apparel Sector”.

The policy is expected to aim at achieving $300 billion textile exports by 2024-25, and thereby creating around 35 million new employment opportunities. The same is likely to be adopted for long term growth of textile and its related industries. The draft policy is under consideration of the Government and is likely to be unveiled soon.

For promoting innovation and Research & Development the following projects were undertaken.

1. Development of High-Tech Shuttle-less Loom in India TMMA had proposed for development of high-speed high tech shuttleless rapier loom of international standard through a consortium of 5 Indian manufacturers of shuttleless loom in the country with technical guidance and support from Central Manufacturing Technology Institute

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EVENT UPDATE (CMTI), Bangalore under PPP mode. The consortium had registered a section 8 company known as “TMM Hi-Tech Research and Development Foundation” (TMMC). A tripartite agreement was signed among CMTI, TMMA, and TMMC in presence of DHI officials.

The final approval of the Hi-Tech Shuttleless Loom project

the equipment cost, the Government of Gujarat has also come forward to support the project for approximately Rs. 7.0 crore.

The SETU Foundation along with TMMA and SEVA was able to raise about Rs. 2.0 crore both from Industry and the DHI however more and active support from the industry is needed now. Several projects have been accomplished at CEFC off late, by commissioning of recently procured ‘Top Solid’ software and a state-of-the art CNC machinery, thereby generating some income.

As I mentioned earlier, the project needs active support from the industry. The industry’s proportionate funding for this project is essential before we get any funding from the Central & the State Governments. Therefore, I urge my industry counterparts to come forward and generously contribute for this project.

3. Capital Goods Sector Skill Council

was given by the Apex Committee at its meeting held on 11th December 2014 with funding from Industry and DHI on 20:80 ratio. The total financial outlay of the project as per the approved proposal of the DHI is Rs. 20 crores. The project commenced from 1st April 2015.

In the first phase (2 years) CMTI was supposed to developed a 450 RPM rapier loom whereas in the second phase (1.5 years) it would develop a 550 RPM rapier loom of global standard.

The first phase of the project is complete with a delay of a year and a half. The industry is working on the commercialization of this prototype which shall be complete in a year’s time after which the phase - II of the project shall be taken up.

2.Common Engineering Facility Centre The Association had been striving hard to set up a Common Engineering Facility Centre (CEFC) at Surat under PPP Mode. TMMA joined hands with ‘Surat Engineering Vikas Association’ (SEVA) a premier association of Engineering Industries in Surat, and ‘Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Education Society’ (SVBPES) an engineering college for establishing a CEFC at Bardoli in Surat to establish a Common Engineering Facility Center (CEFC) in there for textile machinery, and light engineering industry under the aegis of DHI. A tripartite MoU was signed among them on 13th March 2016 for this purpose.

Hon’ble Mr. Anant Geete, Minister of Heavy Industries & Public Enterprises laid the Foundation Stone of the CEFC in a ceremony organized on 26th March 2017.

The CEFC project has completed nearly all milestones as projected in its DPR so far. However, the activities associated with the funding have suffered delays to some extent. In addition to DHI’s commitment to bear 80% of

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The Ministry of Heavy Industries & Public Enterprises, Department of Heavy Industry together with Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce & Industry (FICCI) launched a Capital Goods Sector Skill Council (CGSC) in 2013 under the aegis of National Skill Development Council (NSDC), New Delhi for quality education and skill development in the Capital Goods Sector in the country. Chairman, TMMA is representing TEI on the Governing Council of CGSC. Since its inception the CGSC had drafted the National Occupational Standards (NOS) to specify the standard of performance an individual must achieve when carrying out a function in the workplace, together with the knowledge and understanding they need to meet that standard consistently. Essentially NOS are benchmarks of good practice. NOS describe functions, standards of performance and knowledge and understanding.

The CGSC is responsible to carry out a detailed occupational mapping of the sector; to develop National Occupational Standards (NOS) for various job roles in Capital Goods Sector; and to determine future training needs, curriculum and standards in consultation with the key stakeholders of the Capital Goods Sector.

NOS are primarily used to build qualifications and training programs; however, employers can also use these for any other aspect of human resource management & development like, recruitment, assessments, performance benchmarking, awards and recognition and manpower planning.

The NOS would also help individuals to measure their own performance, develop new skills and upgrade existing skills; plan their career progression laterally and vertically by measuring their own competency. So far 56 NOS/ Qualification Packs (QPs) have been standardized.

During the year the CGSC organized a number of Job Me-

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EVENT UPDATE las across tier II and tier III cities in association with the industry and the local government bodies. The CGSC is organizing regional Skill Competitions with National Skill Development Council, to instill the importance of having the globally competitive skill standards among the Indian Industries. He CGSC is supporting World Skills India team in organizing the Skills competition at multiple levels of Skills such as CNC Turning, CNC Milling, Welding, M-CAD, Plastic Die Engineering, Industrial Mechanic Millwright, and Manufacturing Team Challenge.

for the year 2017-18. I congratulate the award winners for putting in great efforts in the promotion of exports and the development made in textile machinery to win the Awards.

I would request our Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay Kuman Jain to present the Awards to winners and address the gathering after the Business Session.

They are also contemplating to conduct a Skill Gap Analysis and Market Survey to gauge the depth of skill requirement in the Country. I am happy to share that the Capital Goods Skill Council is one of the best out of 39 Sector Skill Councils. More information about the CGSC, the NOS/QPs and Upcoming Activities could be accessed from their website www.cgsc.in.

Export Promotion and R&D Awards It is our normal practice to present Export Promotion and R&D Awards at the Annual Business Session of the Association. In this Session, we are giving 7 Awards for Export Excellence and 1 Award for Research and Development

ASSOCON 2018 ASSOCON 2018 held on 4th September 2018 at south lounge, centre 1 building, world trade center introduced a totally refreshing concept of bringing associations from different segments together. It was the first ever event in Mumbai where associations from different trade industries were brought together.

This event was conceptualized & cumulated by Suvin Expo & N-gauge. The event was managed by Suvin Advisors and Expolab were their technology partner. The event created a platform for learning new concepts & sharing experiences for the overall growth & development of associations who are the backbone of Indian Industries.

The event was supported by All India Association of Industries, Federation of Freight Forwarders Associations in India & Association of System Integrators & Retailers in Technology. India ITME Society was the proud award partner & RMOSS Prints Pvt. Ltd. was the printing partner for the event. The event witnessed presence of 60 delegates from 30 associations.

The Session began with a key note address by Mr. Ninad Karpe, past chairman, Confederation of Indian Industries, western region. His fascinating presentation on “Brave new World” set the pace for the conference and made

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every association present realize that how rapidly the world around is changing with development of technologies.

After an interesting key note address the organizers Mr. Avinash Mayekar, Mr. Shekhar Shridhankar & Mr. Nilay Jani gave a small welcome note & introduced the dignitaries & delegates with the theme of the conference. This was followed by Mr. Shantanu Bhadkamkar, Immediate Past President Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce-Industry & Agriculture’s precise & enlightening case study presentation on “Role of Associations & Chambers PostEconomic Liberalization & Digitized Economy” The event then witnessed the panel discussion on “Role of events to boost Indian Industries” the Session was moderated by Mr. Avinash Mayekar MD & Director Suvin Advisors & Suvin Expo LLP. The panelist for the session were Mr. Arvind Sinha, Co-chairman Textile Forum, Indo American Chamber of Commerce; Dr. Hemant Sonare, National Chairman, Textile Association of India, Mr. Satyendra Mehra Group Director, NuernbergMesse India Pvt. Ltd & Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director-India ITME Society. The panel discussed on all aspects of events from selection of venue to the revenue generations. The panel also emphasized that the most important aspect

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EVENT UPDATE of building successful event is meeting the ultimate need of the event of providing quality knowledge & buyers for their members rather than just focusing on revenue generation. Ms. Seema also showed a small video of India ITME society’s upcoming event GTTES which will take place from 18th - 19th January 2019 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai. The panel concluded by setting pointers for associations to follow before coming up with events.

The panelist agreed that a collaboration of association & specific event partner will be the best offering in events to the industry.

Post lunch the session continued with a presentation by Mr. Arvind Sinha on “Making Indian Associations Global”. He presented statistics about few of the successful associations in US & China and addressed few concerns of Indian associations & also enlightened the way forward for Indian Associations to help boost their respective industries.

The session was followed by the need of the hour topic “How to use technology to improve Association” the panelist for the session were Mr. Jiten Mehta, Chairman, Association of System Integrators & Retailers in Technology; Mr. Tej Contractor, Training Committee Chairman, Brihan Mumbai Custom Brokers Association( BCBA) & Ms. Vasuki Sundaram, Past Jt. Secretary, Travel agents federation of India. The session was moderated by Mr. Nilay Jani Founder & CEO, N-guage & Expolab. The session began with quick questions for the audience & later discussed on how technology can be an aid to improve member interactions, update news & also engage the members for electing the right leaders. The session also gave insights on how technology can be reached & made friendly with

people not that technology savvy.

Later, Mr. Pankaj Shah – President Association of System Integrators & Retailers in Technology introduced their associations, its working & how it helps its members for their growth. It gave an overview on the various programs & events organized by their association.

The valedictory speech was given by Mr. Suresh Vaidya Chairman, Vaidya & Associates. He summarized the session and gave valuable insights on running associations.

He also shared his life lessons from his early age of working in the associations.

The event then recognized some exceptional work done by associations for betterment of their members & societies. These awards & recognition were introduced at the event to act as an inspiration for other associations to work for betterment & brighter future. The awards were given in four categories.

The awards were supported by India ITME society & it was presented by Mr. Suresh Vaidya & Ms. Seema Srivastava.

The award for “Most growth oriented organization” was awarded to Association of System Integrators & Retailers in Technology. Federation of Associations of Maharashtra was awarded “High Impact Initiative” award. The “Best Digital Adoption” was given to Federation of Hotel & Restaurant Association of India & the “Best Social Impact” was awarded to Cotton Vidarbha.

The event concluded with a thanking note by Mr. Shekhar Shridhankar, Co-Chairman Suvin Expo LLP & a promise of continuing the event on annual basis. The ASSOCON team will be soon announcing the dates for their next edition.

RECENT TRENDS IN FABRIC FORMING BY TAI The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit organized One Day Seminar on “Recent Trends in Fabric Forming” on 8th September 2018 at Hotel fortune Park Galaxy, Vapi (Gujarat). The seminar was inaugurated by Mr. Yogesh Kusumgar, Chairman, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd. Inaugural Session Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit welcomed the Chief Guest, Key Note Speaker and Guests of Honour. He also welcomed the Awardees, Speakers, Press, Media and delegates.

Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convener of the Seminar said that this seminar aims to give an opportunity to the textile technologists to share their thoughts to meet the challenges and wished that the interaction in the seminar will

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be highly productive and beneficial.

Mr. Tapan Kumar Chandra, the Advisor of the Seminar discussed about the changing scenario in the entire textile value chain and congratulated TAI, Mumbai Unit for selecting this region of Gujarat for organising this type of Seminar.

Mr. Mohan Kavrie, Managing Director, Supreme Nonwovens Industries Pvt. Ltd. delivered the Key Note Address and said that he has less association with traditional textile industry as non woven is his core business area. He discussed various issues in the non woven industry. He insist to concentrate on quality, Research & Development.

Ms. Seema Srivastava, Executive Director, India ITME Society gave emphasize on the educational activities in the

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EVENT UPDATE

Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit, proposed Vote of Thanks.

for Fabric Forming”. y Ms. Gauri Kaveeshwar, Business Development Officer and Ms. Anubhuti Gupta, Marketing Executive, Thermax Limited presented the paper on “Sustainable Solutions in Energy and Environment. y Mr. Vikram Chaurasia, Deputy General Manager – Textile Engineering – Fabric Forming, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “New Technologies in Warp and Circular Knitting”. y Mr. Badruddin Khan, Sr. Manager - Product Management Team, Multi Commodity Exchange of India Ltd. (MCX) made the presentation on “Awareness on Cotton Price Risk Management”. y Mr. Sachiin Kulkarnii, Chief Operating Officer, GHCL Limited presented the paper on “Energy Conservation A step towards sustainability”. y Mr. R. Girish, IAS, Commissioner for Textile Development & Director of Handlooms & Textiles, Govt. of Karnataka presented the paper on “‘Karnataka’ is the destination for investment on textiles”. y Mr. Mihir Parekh, Director - Mega Textile Park, Telangana State Industrial Infrastructure Corporation Ltd. (TSIIC), (A. Government of Telangana Undertaking) presented the paper on “Investment Opportunities in Telangana”.

Technical Session

Panel Discussions

During the technical session, following papers were presented by the eminent speakers. y Mr. Guruprasad S. Shetty, Senior Product Manager – Fabric Forming, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on “Profitable solutions with new trend of KARL MAYER–Section/Sample warping”. y Mr. N. K. Brahmachari, Managing Director, Amritlakshmi Machine Works presented the paper on “Innovations in Sizing Machine - Machine Manufacturing Angle”. y Mr. Amit R. Singh, Sr. Sales Manager, Itema Weaving (India) Pvt. Ltd. made the presentation on “Recent Development in Weaving Machines”. y Dr. Indu Keoti (Pillai), Dy. General Manager-Sales & Mktg., Industrial IoT & Smart Analytics, EcoAxis presented the paper on “IIoT- Unlocking Business Value

Panel Discussion on “Upgrade, Weaving Technology for Quality Fabrics” was moderated by Mr. R. R. Gorakhia, Ex. Director, Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. The Panel of experts comprised of Mr. Mihir Parekh, Director - Mega Textile Park, Telangana State Industrial Infrastructure Corporation Ltd. (TSIIC), (A. Government of Telangana Undertaking), Mr. Sachiin Kulkarnii, Chief Operating Officer, GHCL Limited, Mr. B. B. Modi, Vice-President (Weaving Production), D’Decor Home Fabrics Pvt. Ltd. and Mr. Pratik R. Bachkaniwala, Director, Palod Himson Machines Pvt. Ltd.

textile industry and discussed issues regarding engineering industry. She advised to use latest machinery to stand in the international market. She requested audience to participate in GTTES Exhibition to know new trend in machinery.

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit has felicitated Mr. Mohan Kavrie, Managing Director, Supreme Nonwovens Industries Pvt. Ltd. with “The Lifetime Achievement Award” and Mr. N. K. Brahmachari, Managing Director, Amritlakshmi Machine Works with “The Industrial Excellence Award” for their outstanding contribution in the field of textile industry.

Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI, Mumbai Unit, gave the introduction of the Chief Guest.

Mr. Yogesh Kusumgar, Chairman, Kusumgar Corporates Pvt. Ltd. shared his experience in the field of technical textiles and highlighted on the products required by the Indian army forces. He requested textile industrialist to think on innovation to stand in world Market. He requested to organise more workshop with technical expert on technical textile.

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The seminar was a grand success and was attended by over 225 delegates

ont take rest after your first victory because if you fail in second, more lips are waiting to say that your first victory was just your luck

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BRAND FOCUS

A.T.E. - A COMMITTED PARTNER OF THE INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY A.T.E. was founded in 1939 as a part of India’s drive to selfsufficiency through economic development in the country. Since then, A.T.E. has been a catalyst for technological evolution of the textile industry in India by bringing cutting edge technologies from

Gurudas Aras (Director) around the globe, and also manufacturing some of the latest equipment and accessories in India. A.T.E.’s business offers customers the twin benefits of high technology and economy.

Today, A.T.E. is an undisputed leader in the field of textile engineering in India and enjoys a unique distinction of being a one window solution provider encompassing every textile process – spinning, knitting, weaving, processing, synthetics, technical textiles, non-woven and carpet finishing. A.T.E. represents 50+ world leaders – the who’s who of high technology in the textile engineering arena. Customers also view A.T.E. as a consulting resource, on account of A.T.E.’s deeply embedded knowledge of textile processes.

In spinning, A.T.E. offers complete world-class solutions in spinning covering blow rooms, cards, draw frames, lap winders and combers from Trützschler automatic winders and TFOs by

Savio, bobbin transport, yarn conditioning and OHTC from SARA ELGI, assembly winders by SSM, and a range of spinning accessories covering spinning machinery components, compact spinning systems, card clothing, textile testing equipment, etc.

A.T.E. has a joint venture Truetzschler India Private Limited (JV with Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG, Germany) for manufacturing spinning preparatory machinery. It also has a state-of-the art manufacturing facility to manufacture high precision spinning machinery components under the brand TeraSpin.

A.T.E. has expertise in different technologies related to fabric forming process. A.T.E. offers a complete range of warp knitting, technical textiles, weaving preparatory machines from Karl Mayer. A.T.E.’s portfolio also covers circular knitting machines from Jingmei.

In the sphere of textile processing, A.T.E. is the only Indian company offering the complete range of machinery and accessories for dyeing, printing and finishing across multiple applications of yarn and fibre, knitted fabrics, terry towels, woven fabrics, denim and technical textiles including ETP. These hi-tech solutions come from the best in class manufacturers from around the world, namely, Fong’s, THEN, Mahlo, Monforts, Monfongs, Goller, Stalam, Osthoff-senge, Guarneri Technology, Corino, Zimmer, Color Service, SSM, Dunline, CIEA, etc.

Technical textiles are crucial to India’s progress.

A.T.E. provides a full range of equipment for technical textiles and non-wovens from Trützschler Non-wovens, Karl Mayer, and others. In synthetics and carpets, A.T.E. offers solutions from Zimmer, Trützschler and CTMTC. A.T.E. also offers humidification system from Luwa, logistics and material handling systems and automatic storage and retrieval systems from Godrej Cons-

Standing L to R: Mr Kiran Hanchate (Business Head - Spinning Accessories Division) and Mr Navin Agrawal (Business Head - Fabric Forming Division)Sitting L to R: Mr S Rajendran (Business Head - Processing & ETP Division), Mr Gurudas Aras (Director) and Mr A Suresh (Business Head - Spinning Machinery Division)

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BRAND FOCUS oveyo, ERP solutions from Datatex, Manufacturing Execution System (MES) from BMSVision, and machine upgrade and automation solutions.

A.T.E.’s portfolio includes a wide range of high quality and efficient pumping solutions for various textile applications; and a comprehensive range of products to improve safety, productivity and quality in textile processes. These solutions are tailor-made and are intended for the control of static electricity in various applications such as carding, warping, weaving, processing and finishing and also airto-air heat recovery systems to capture waste heat from stenters and hot air dryers.

Since the last few years, A.T.E. has invented and deployed several original green products and solutions in the areas of Air, waTer, and Energy.

In the area of wastewater, A.T.E. HUBER Envirotech, an A.T.E. group company, offers state-of-the-art solutions for wastewater treatment, recycling, and sludge management covering both industrial and municipal sectors. It has developed the unique ‘AAA’ technology for treating textile effluents, which results in reduced chemical consumption, low sludge generation, and low energy costs, while ensuring consistent quality of treated water. A.T.E. HUBER Envirotech can also supply specialised wastewa-

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A.T.E.’s energy efficient cooling solutions with the brand HMX, patented heat exchange technology are fast gaining wide acceptance across industrial and commercial segments. These cooling solutions not only ensure people comfort and enhanced productivity, but also improve process efficiency.

A.T.E.’s Concentrated Solar Thermal (CST) system provides solar energy for heating, helping to reduce fuel costs and greenhouse gas emissions and increase profits.

A.T.E.’s Smart manufacturing suite based on Industrial IoT helps digitise manufacturing shop floors, and use “big data” analytics to provide actionable insights helping such customers to achieve their vision of operational excellence, increase revenue, improve customer service and comply with regulations.

With a comprehensive portfolio of products and services, A.T.E. has been a catalyst in the development of the Indian textile industry. The spirit from the beginning has been one of partnership with the textile industry to provide the best technologies and services across the textile spectrum, driven by A.T.E.’s theme – ‘partnering people & the planet’.

DyStar marks sustainability progress The DyStar Group has released its 2017 – 2018 Sustainability Performance Report. Into its eighth edition, the report marks the progress of the supplier of colorants, specialty chemicals, and services for the textiles industry. The company has also embarked on the business with food dyes and chemicals through its recent acquisition in USA.

The latest DyStar’s Sustainability Performance Report is the first of their reports prepared in accordance with the most trusted and widely used reporting framework – Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) Standards: Core Option.

“It is imperative for the entire industry to improve collectively, not individually, and our ability to do so may determine the long-term profitability of the industry as a whole. It is my belief that effective partnerships coupled with stronger support and incentivisation from leading companies within this industry could be key to creating a new – and much needed – equilibrium,” said CEO of DyStar Group Eric Hopmann.

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ter treatment equipment from Huber, Germany.

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2020 target Last year marked the seventh year of DyStar’s journey towards reducing the production footprint by 20% for every ton of production by the year 2020. This goal encompasses the resources used for production including energy, water, and raw materials as well as addresses their corresponding outputs – greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, waste and wastewater. Results across most key performance indicators were positive, with four of the six 2020 targets being successfully met or surpassed, the company reports.

In terms of the energy consumption and GHG emission, DyStar is farther from its original desired target primarily due to the impacts from three newly acquired production sites. However, intensive efforts are underway to ensure that the company’s less efficient acquisitions are provided the essential support to align with the rest of the company. DyStar is optimistic that all six targets are achievable by 2020.

Responsible products and services As part of DyStar’s long-term goal to imbed sustainability across the industry, the company will also be focusing on expanding its sustainability services. This includes the opening of more Texanlab offices, an ISO 17025 certified, specialised testing laboratory across South Asia to pro-

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NEWS vide end-to-end solutions throughout the whole supply chain.

Increasingly, DyStar is strengthening its partnerships with the Non-Governmental Organisations (NGOs). The 2017 report features an in-depth guest interview with the NGO China Water Risk, on how can suppliers like DyStar can be a role model in creating sustainable fashion.

To encourage and facilitate sustainable practices among its suppliers, DyStar also conducts sustainability-related

supplier surveys. For instance, DyStar is cooperating with the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs (IPE) to expand the framework of its supplier questionnaire. In recognition of its efforts, DyStar received top ranking in the CITI transparency list for industrial chemicals from IPE, placing them well ahead of many other industry peers.

Embracing diversity, engaging communities Also, to help meet clients’ demand and demonstrate its responsibility and care in the food and beverages industry, DyStar is implementing a supplier diversity programme to support businesses in the USA that are at least 51% owned by minority groups, women, veterans and people with disabilities. Highlighting DyStar’s commitment to the communities they operate in, the company encourages volunteerism among employees, and for the year of 2017, DyStar employees devoted a total of 205 volunteer hours towards community projects, which also served as a meaningful collective experience for employees to form closer bonds. www.dystar.com

VARDHMAN TEXTILES LTD. PARTNER WITH RIL FOR MANUFACTURING OF HIGH PERFORMANCE FABRICS y The partnership is to produce innovative fabric including R|Elan Green Gold– manufactured by recycling used PET bottles y Active wear segment is 10-15% of the apparel market

neered R|Elan fabrics. R|Elan is a new-age fabric brand from Reliance Industries and its technical team will assist in providing technical know-how and specifications that will result in the production of best quality fabric.

Vardhaman Textiles Ltd. announced today its partnership with Reliance Industries Limited (RIL). Suchita Jain, the Joint Managing Director of Vardhman Textiles Limited, signed an agreement with Reliance Industries Limited on September 26, 2018, for co-creation and promotion of fabrics and yarns made by using the new age fibers and filaments developed by Reliance under their brand R| Elan.

The high-quality fabric collection will straddle across the performance and sustainable themes in formals, casuals and other women wear segments.

After signing the agreement, Jain said, “We see many exciting possibilities with R|Elan to create new fabric developments. Our strengths have always been rapid innovation and creating strong product ranges that are acceptable to brands, and Reliance is the perfect partner for our developments. The technical team at R|Elan is very supportive in enhancing our manufacturing prowess.”

The partnership will provide a major fillip to Reliance Industries’ new-age fabric R|Elan, Vardhman Textiles and RIL, will produce innovative fabric including R|Elan Green Gold– manufactured by recycling used PET bottles, and used in trousers and denim.

As a part of this partnership, RIL’s R|Elan technical team will work closely with Vardhman for developing new manufacturing processes to manufacture specially engi-

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The agreement was signed by Suchita Jain, Joint managing Director, Vardhman Textiles and Gunjan Sharma, CEO, polyester division, RIL. Sharma expressed his happiness at this association and threw light on how this partnership will not only create opportunities for entire textile value chain, including brands and apparel manufactures but will also ensure to meet the growing demand for high quality fabric.

R|Elan is a portfolio of innovative fabrics with a presence in segments like active wear, denim, ethnic and western wear- both formals and casuals. Active wear is convenient clothing, which boosts the physical performance and eases body movements, especially used for enhancing comfort in fitness and sports activities.

Interestingly, of the total INR 2.5 lakh crore apparel industry, active wear segment has 10-15% market share (that is, INR 2500 crore), while ethnic wear and sarees, the largest apparel sub-segment, commands INR 60,000 crore share. The denim segment is worth INR 20,000 crore.

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TUKATECH LAUNCHES AUTOMATIC FABRIC CUTTING SYSTEMS Tukatech a leading specialist in fashion technology, has launched clean air filtration and low energy consumption TUKAcut cutting systems, certified by the TÜV SÜD Italia Machine Energy Protocol MEP. The Italian-made machines are customised with Tukatech’s software, and mechanical and electrical specifications.

TUKAcut machines for lingerie, denim and universal fabric cutting are available in custom widths and heights. These machines are designed to give the ultimate performance at the lowest running cost. Though cutting productivity is at least 20% higher than other models on the market, the energy cost is 50% to 70% lower, which is a great benefit for users in countries where energy cost is a major consideration, according to the company.

Other features are said to include the highest productivity per hour cutting denim with zero buffer, as well as a cut path optimizer that results in 2.2%-3.6% fabric savings, compared to other cutting machines and helps to increase productivity. The eco-power vacuum system is said to guarantee considerable power savings at only 5.5kw, the lowest in comparable industry cutting machines.

New machines The new fabric cutting machines were first installed in Lahore, Pakistan, at Combined Fabrics, the largest supplier of knit garments to Levi’s. Before installation, the cutting room had 90 people cutting 50,000 units in a day.

“The company was already a very happy user of TUKAcad, TUKA3D, and SMARTmark. Tukatech demonstrated their cutting room expertise by helping us engineer another vendor’s cutting system before we even considered adopting TUKAcut for automatic fabric cutting,” said Sheikh Tariq Mehmood, Director of Combined Fabrics.

Implementation included training personnel for raw material handling, spreading, cutting and bundling. On the

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first day of installation, 14 people were able to cut the same number of units (50,000) and within weeks the same configuration increased productivity to between 65,000 and 75,000 units per day, the company reports.

“My suggestion is to listen to Tukatech’s expertise. Our expectations for the TUKAcut system were exceeded by far, but they never surprised us with extra hidden expenses,” added Mehmood.

Partnership Ram Sareen, founder of Tukatech, explained why he chose to partner with Italian fabric cutting machine manufacturer, F.K. Group, to build the TUKAcut systems. Tukatech was the first partner of F.K. Group to take F.K. cutting machines out of Italy in 1995. Many of the machines installed in the US, Mexico, Canada, and India at that time are still running and producing high quality cuts.

According to Sareen, the partnership with F.K. Group allows Tukatech to offer garment manufacturers reliable fabric cutting machines at competitive prices. “Similar to engineering companies like AMG partnering with Daimler-Benz to offer an amazingly high-performance vehicle to drivers who appreciate the engineering, we offer just the same with our partnership with F.K. Group,” commented Ram Sareen. www.tukatech.com

e Are All Born With A Divine Fire In Us. Our Efforts Should Be To Give Wings To This Fire And Fill The

World With The Glow Of Its Goodness

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NEWS ICRA: STRONG REVIVAL IN EXPORT DEMAND BRINGS RELIEF TO DOMESTIC COTTON SPINNERS The surge in export demand for cotton yarn over the past few months has come as a major respite for the domestic spinners, who had reported a multi-year low profitability during FY2018 amid multiple headwinds. Even though the pace of growth is likely to moderate during the year with the base effect setting in, India is set to record strong growth in cotton yarn exports during FY2019.

Commenting on the emerging trends, Mr. Jayanta Roy, Senior Vice-President and Group Head, Corporate Sector Ratings, ICRA, says, “Even though trends in domestic consumption of cotton yarn remain unencouraging, strong revival in export demand augurs well for profitability of domestic spinners as it has enabled them to pass on the increase in raw material costs, unlike last year. This together with access to low-cost cotton from the previous harvest season has helped the domestic spinners maintain the improvement trajectory in profitability in H1 FY2019.”

The revival in export demand has enabled ICRA’s sample of large spinning companies report a comfortable volumetric growth of ~5% Y-o-Y in Q1 FY2019, which together with a 7% Y-o-Y increase in average yarn realisations to Rs. 211/kg has translated into a growth of ~12% in sales turnover during the quarter. The growth rate appears comfortable, when viewed in comparison to a growth of ~5-6% reported by the sample during FY2017 and FY2018 amid multiple demand-side pressures. The aggregate operating margins also improved to 12.2% in Q1 FY2019 vis-a-vis 11.6% in Q4 FY2018, after having remained subdued at 9-11% during the preceding four quarters. As a result, the aggregate interest cover improved to 3.8x in Q1 FY2019 from 3.1x in Q1 FY2018, despite an increase in interest outgo due to an increase in the inventory-led working capital requirements.

While the strong Y-o-Y growth of ~56% in cotton yarn exports during 4M FY2019 driven by a more than two-fold

increase in exports to China, is partly attributable to the low base effect, as exports were down by 56% Y-o-Y in 4M FY2018, it has also been driven by competitive Indian cotton and yarn prices. Indian cotton prices increased at a relatively slower pace vis-a-vis the international prices during the seven-month period ended May 2018, reporting a 6% increase in US dollar terms vis-a-vis a 20% increase in the international cotton prices during the same period. As a result, the spread between domestic and international cotton prices, which typically averages at ~5%, increased to ~12% in the quarter-ended March 2018 before peaking at 16% in the quarter-ended June 2018. This, together with rupee depreciation, made Indian cotton as well as cotton yarn considerably competitive in the global markets during the months of March, April and May 2018, shoring up demand for the Indian cotton and cotton yarn.

With increased demand, the Indian cotton prices increased by ~9% in the month of June 2018 and stayed firm thereafter, before correcting marginally in September 2018 with the onset of the harvest season. As a result, the spread between the domestic and international cotton prices narrowed significantly and is estimated at ~8% for the quarter-ended September 2018.

“Notwithstanding the healthy demand prospects in the export markets in the near term, considering the still higher-than-usual spread levels, the spike in growth rate of exports witnessed is likely to moderate during H2 FY2019 with the arbitrage opportunity as well as the base effect fading out,” Mr. Roy added.

Other factors apart, competitive pressures from Vietnam and China’s focus on improving cotton availability situation, are also expected to moderate the export demand for India’s cotton yarn going forward. Nevertheless, given the strong growth reported during 4M FY2019, cotton yarn exports for the full year are expected to report a healthy growth in FY2019.

IITEXPO ICHALKARANJI 2018 (INDIA INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE EXPO) 06-08 DECEMBER 2018 Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL) set up by the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, promote, support, develop, advance and increase powerlooms and export of powerloom fabrics and madeups through its various activities. To promote export of textiles and garments, PDEXCIL has again come up with

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a grand Reverse Buyer Seller Meet (RBSM), connecting the international market with Indian textile exporters and traders.

The main objective of conducting this RBSM is to provide a direct platform to Indian textiles exporters to interact

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NEWS with buyers from all over the world in their home country at a very low participation charge. The SME sector is highly motivated to participate in it and increase their export activity. Also it will showcase India as a reliable source of supply with such varied product range.

With the vision to provide a reliable international network platform and practical know-how on all key sourcing markets, latest trends and standards in export, buyers from various countries are invited such as Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, U.A.E, Vietnam, Korea, Senegal, Zimbabwe, Mali, Malaysia, Australia etc.

About 100 Indian textile exporters will be displaying a wide range of products with latest trends and qualities under one roof. The product range will be suitable for all types of markets whether emerging or developed ranging from yarn, fabrics to garments and made ups. The exhibition is happening in Ichalkaranji which is one of the India’s important textile/fabric manufacturing clusters with over 1,50,000 powerlooms including auto and high speed

shuttle-less looms producing fine varieties of cotton and blended fabrics including Industrial Textile. It is having 35 spinning mills many of which are 100% Export Oriented Units producing a wide range of counts, ply yarns, ring and open end yarns and fancy yarns, more than 20 power processes and about 50 hand processing units. The cluster is now going to set-up a Mega Processing Cluster to address the environmental norms. It has proximity to Solapur Cluster which is famous for its Terry Towel and designer Chaddars and Durries.

IITExpo Ichalkaranji 2018 will be a one stop source for all textiles requirements of worldwide buyers and a unique platform for Indian participants where they can gather information on all latest developments and trends in order to gear the development and manufacture of their products in future.

For more information please visit: www.pdexcil.org

COMPANY UPDATE PROFILE: Based in the Powerloom Capital of Asia, Bhiwandi, Maharashtra, India, The Attirebin Sample Development Private Limited has its own setup of Weaving, Dyeing, Printing & Stitching. The Attirebin Sample Development Private Limited is a Complete solution for Fabric Development. It has a team of highly professional management and technical staff with standardised working system. We are in a continuous process of expansion, enhancement and incorporating the latest technological innovations in order to ensure our customers the best possible quality in Sample Development.

Most importantly of all these, Attirebin Sample Development Private Limited is proud of its driving force by dynamic, well qualified and highly skilled management having deep knowledge in all aspects of fabric sample development. Established in 2018 as a yardage based fabric sample development, a unique business.

THE OBJECTIVES OF THE COMPANY

To carry on in India or abroad the business as weavers or otherwise manufacturers, buyers, sellers, importers, exporters and dealers, sample developers of silk, art silk, synthetic, woolen, polyester and cotton fabrics and other fibrous products including dressing and furnishing materials, uniforms, readymade garments, carpets and carpet backing, blankets padding knitted goods, woven bags, hosiery gloves, yarn and sewing thread and, To carry on the business of packing, grading, crimping, twisting, texturing, bleaching dyeing, printing, mercerizing or otherwise processing yarn, cloth, carpets, blankets and other textile

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goods, whether made from cotton, jute, wool, silk, art silk, synthetic and other fibers or blends thereof.

To assemble, develop, manipulate, construct, buy, sell, import, export, trade, repair, services, maintain, install, exchange, alter distribute, buy, or sell on hire purchase system or installment to leased out or taken on lease and prepare for market all kinds of hosiery products, textiles products of all types and description. including socks and undergarments.

To act as agent, sub-agent, distributors, commission agents, representatives, merchants, traders, stockiest, sales organizers of all goods specified above and provide management and technical consultancy services in the field of hosiery and textile industry.

Utmost care is taken to maintain Quality standards across all stages of production. This is made possible due to our state-of–the–art production facility.

Vision Statement!

Our vision is to create a niche of our own, in the highly competitive world markets. Our technical perfection, quality standards and innovative impacts are unique.

Behind all this success, Directors and their team have a complete vision in their mind to make the organization as one of the top ranked company. Following is our vision statement: “To attain market leadership through unmatched quality, a diverse and unique product mix, empowered employees, world-class systems, and the highest ethical and professional standard.”

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December 2018

23-15

FEBRATEXTILE 2018 Sao Paulo / Brazil

1-3

26-27

Global Cotton Conclave Goa/ India www.teflas.com

04-05

25-27

InterDye & Textile Printing Istanbul/ Turkey www.interdyeprinting.com

5-7

The 19th Guangzhou China International Shoes Fair China http://www.ruihongfair.com/

6-9

MTG YCC / Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com/mtg

6-8

IITExpo Ichalkaranji 2018 Ichalkaranji/Maharastra www.pdexcil.org

November 2018

Filtrex Asia Shanghai/ China http://2016.filtrationasia.com

1-4

FESTIVAL OF CRAFTS – 2018 Calgary, Canada http://festivalofcrafts.ca/

3-11

MODE HEIM HANDWERK 2018 Essen, Germany MESSE ESSEN GmbH

6-8

MAREDIMODA CANNES 2018 Palais des Festivals https://www.maredimoda.com/en/home-en/

4-6

7-11

BAZAAR BERLIN – 2018 Messe, Berlin https://www.bazaar-berlin.de/en/

SITEX Surat/ India www.sitex.sgcci.in

9-12

12-14

International Apparel & Textile Fair Dubai/UAE http://internationalapparelandtextilefair.com/

DTG Dhaka / Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com/dtg/

18-20

GTTES Mumbai/India www.gttes.india-itme.com

13-14

REMODE LOS ANGELES https://remode.com/

14-16

Intex South Asia 2017 Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.intexfair.com/

15-18

Big Fab 2018 Dhaka / Bangladesh https://www.redcarpet365.com

20-22

78

ITMACH Africa / AFRICA Sourcing show Nairobi/ Kenya www.itmach.com

INTERNATIONAL SOURCING EXPO AUSTRAILA Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre, Australia https://www.internationalsourcingexpo.com/

23-25

Clothing Machinery Expo 2018 Ahmedabad AHMEDABAD www.essentialtradefairs.com

21-24

VTG Ho Chi Minh City/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com

January 2019

April 2019 9-10

FILTREX INDIA NEW DELHI www.edana.org info@bch.in

June 2019 20-26

ITMA 2019 Barcelona, Spain http://www.itma.com

August 2019 3-5

YARN EXPO 2019 Surat/ Gujrat www.yarnexpo.sgcci.in

www.textilevaluechain.com

October 2018

INTERVIEW

• Markets: JP Modatex focus is for apparel and home textiles for domestic as well as international brands. We are already established as a trusted and dependable yarn supplier for our consumers.

• Production facilities: o Present: Our present capacity is 18000 spindles with multiple production lines which can cater to our consumer requirements from sample lots to commercial lots.

Jindas Jain Director

The unit is set up with state of the art and the latest Plant and machineries.

With the present capacity we are producing 300T of ring spun yarns per month. o Expansion:

• Inspiration to start Business JP Modatex LLP is promoted by Mr. Jindas Pukhraj Jain & Mr. Rakesh Kumar Sharma. JP Modatex commenced production of ring Spun yarns in October, 2016 at its ring spinning unit located in Silvassa with the latest plant & machineries.

The Family of JP Modatex is in yarn business since 1948 known as Pukhraj Virchand – a yarn trading company. In 2009 Pukhraj Virchand group ventured into ring yarn spinning by the name Samosaran Yarns Pvt Ltd.

• Products: JP Modatex LLP specializes in cellulosic based yarns and super specializes in Linen Blends. JP Modatex is producing Linen Blends with Modal, Lyocell, Bamboo and Viscose in NE countf from 8s to 60s.

Along with Linen, JP Modatex is also promoting Bamboo as they both are anti-bacterial, anti-microble and good for human skin.

We are adding 15000 spindles within next 6 months which will enhance our production capacity to 500T per month.

• Location: JP Modatex is very close to consumption centers, giving advantage of fastest deliveries.

From raw material to finish goods, average movement of goods is less than 200kms.

• Product developments: We are consistently working on innovating and introducing new varieties of yarn every month for which we have a dedicated production line and a dedicated team headed by Mr. Rakesh Kumar Sharma.

• Exports: We have already started exporting our yarns to China and Turkey. We are exploring many other markets for our specialty Linen blended yarns.

• Vision: Our vision is to manufacture and supply specialty and innovative yarns in shortest possible time.

October 2018

www.textilevaluechain.com

79

1 Year

12 Issue

`800

T

2 Year

24 Issue

`1500

3 Year

36 Issue

`2100

5 Year

60 Issue

`3600

S h a V

Cheques/DD are Favouring To "Innvoative Media And Information Company" Payable At Mumbai PLEASE NOTE: WE DO NOT GUARANTEE THE DELIVERY OF COPIES BY NORMAL BOOKPOST

Name: Contact Person: Address: Phone No. Mobile No.: Email Id : Website :

T s

S a t c

O

OF

SUMATI SPINTEX PRIVATE LIMITED The brief about our company and the manufacturing activity are follows : Sumati Spintex Pvt Ltd was formed in 2013 to manufacture 100% Cotton Yarn and within a short period of time we have achieved a signiďŹ cant position in the textile industry with more strategic initiative by bringing a state-of-theart latest world class technology and production equipped from renowned manufacturers across the world at Village-Tumb, Sanjan (East), Umbergaon, Dist-Valsad, Gujarat.

The manufacturing facilities of Sumati Spintex Pvt Ltd are equipped with textile machineries from best in class suppliers globally and follow stringent quality control procedures to manufacture globally standard yarn.

Sumati Spintex Pvt Ltd uses machinery from LMW from India and Savio from Italy and equipped with highest levels of automation, integrated online process control systems and committed to customer service excellence. We are true to our core belief that excellence is a dynamic target to continuously provide value to our customers and value chain partners.

Our plant comprises of about 38000 spindles with 50% compact and 50% combed yarn manufacturing facility.

Block No 135/29, Tumb, Umbergaon, Valsad, Gujarat, 396150 grjain@sumatis.com | Accounts@sumatis.com

1958 2018

YEARS OF SERVICE TO THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

+91 9624004999

U S AQUATREAT CO.

U S AQUATREAT CO.

Water & waste Water treatment Projects, design, detailing, supply, erection, commissioning & operationm

Water Treatment Plant (WTP)

m

Sewage Treatment Plants (STP)

m

Effluent Treatment Plants (ETP)

m Effluent Re-Cycling (ZLD) m

Ultra-filtration Systems (UF)

m

Reverse Osmosis Plants (RO)

m

Softeners (SF)

m

De-Mineralization Plants (DM)

m

High Purity Water Generation Systems

ZLD

m Electro De-ionization System (EDI)

STP

TEXTILE ETP

Head OfficeU S AQUATREAT CO. Office no. 9,10, Whispering Palm, Plot no. 49, Sector – 19, Airoli, Navimumbai -400708 E-Mail- pradeep@usaquatreat.com Mob no..-09987358798.

Website- www.usaquatreat.com

ETP Bio Tower Branch Office – R-004, Swastik Plaza, Pokharan Road No.2, Subhash Nagar,Thane-400601.

Workshop - W-416, TTC, MIDC, Rabale, Navi Mumbai-400708.

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GOKULANAND TEXTURISERS PVT.LTD GOKULANAND PETROFIBRES

Corporate Profile Gokulanand has made a strong impact in the market for its creativity and offering speciality products for melt Spinning & Yarn processing. Gokulanand is currently one of the biggest manufacturing house of Air Tex yarn (ATY) In India.“GOKULANAND”, the fibre division of Aalidhra Group of companies was started in 1992. It is an integral part of Aalidhra Group of companies, which itself is the pioneer & market leader in manufacturing Textile machinery. We currently have an installed capacity of 73,000 MT of partially oriented yarn (POY), 73,000 MT of Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY), 55000 MT of Draw Textured yarn (DTY) and 55,000 MT of Air textured yarn (ATY) Per Annum & Polyester Chips having its capacity of 500 Tons of melt per day and have capability to deliver Technical Textile Yarns for industrial usage.Gokulanand is pioneer in offering speciality

Infrastructure We believe that Innovation is way to tap market and we strive hard to maintain develop our structure to meet this creativity.Our Infrastructure is well set up to cope up with our belief and our vision.

R & D and Innovation Our passion for Innovation has made Gokulanand one of the best houses for speciality yarns and creative products all over India.Our continuous hard work to be consistent in providing best quality of our products to our esteem customers is due to extensive R & D done to meet global standards.

PRODUCTS Par ally Oriented Yarn (POY) Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY) Air Textured Yarn (ATY) Draw Textured Yarn (DTY) Polyester Chips GOKULANAND TEXTURISERS PVT.LTD | GOKULANAND PETROFIBRES Street: 1st Floor, Super Tex Tower, Opp. Kinnary Multiplex, Ring Road, Surat, Gujarat (India) 395002 Mobile: (+91) 9879208105 / 453 / 463 | Email: gokulanand@gokulanand.com

Export & Import HO : A-403, Nirav Park, Behind Maruti Apartment, Opp. Kiran Diamond, Umiya Mandir Road, Varachha Road, Surat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 395006 Marketing Office : 519, Golden Plaza Market, Ring Road, Surat Email : bipinvora1959@gmail.com , voraassociate1@gmail.com

S R (Ansari) Weaving Pvt. Ltd.

H No.300 SR Compound Sawandhe Village, Bhiwandi-421302.

Cell: 9730971888

IITExpo Ichalkaranji, 2018 India International Textiles Expo

At Pancharatna Sanskrutik Bhavan, Ganganagar, Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur District, Maharashtra Shell Scheme (Minimum area 9 sqm): Rs. 20,000/+ GST @18% i.e 3,600/-total=Rs.23,600/-

Opportunity to meet foreign buyers in your home country at low cost

Proportionate increase in multiples of 3 sq.mtr extra for additional space + GST @18%

Foreign buyer for entire value chain: ·Yarn ·Fabrics ·Made-ups ·Apparels

(Rupees Twenty Three Thousand and Six Hundred Only) (Non refundable/non transferable)

On 06th, 07th & 08th December 2018

Foreign buyers from major importing countries and emerging markets such as: Bangladesh Senegal Vietnam Korea Sri Lanka Australia UK Zimbabwe Mali And many more…..

Head Office: GC 2, Ground Floor, Gundecha Onclave, Kherani Road, Saki Naka, Andheri (e), Mumbai – 400072.; Tel: +91 (022) 28502050/2060 Fax: 022 - 28504146; E-mail id: pdexcilmumbai@gmail.com; Contact Person: Ms. Lavany Saxena, Assistant Director (M: 9892886912) Regional Office: Texvalley Market (P) Limited, Basement No 1, Gangapuram Post, Erode – 638102.; Mob: 9843022334; E-mail id: pdexcilia@gmail.com

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