APRIL 2019 ISSUE

COVER APRIL 2019.ai 1 23-04-2019 00:56:40

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APRIL 2019

Volume 7

Market Report: Cotton, Yarn, Textile Chemical, Apparel Index Sustainable Fibre: Spandex Fibre ITMA Innovations: RETECH, USTER, SAURER, Santex Rimar, Autefa, Meera Industries, Amsler, Benninger, TMAS, Crealet Interviews : Sanjay Jain, MD, TT Ltd. Ajit B. Chavan, Secretary, Textiles Committee Rajendra Agarwal, MD, Donear Industries

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 60

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Their openness to novelty is our benchmark Discover our vision in this video.

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Let’s grow together

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OE_AN

From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment with the product brands Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag is the world market leader for filament spinning systems, texturing machines and BCF carpet yarn, staple fiber spinning as well as nonwovens solutions.

Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment welcomes you to the ITMA Barcelona, Spain, June 20-26, 2019 in hall H7 / booth A101.

For further information visit us at www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers

Spinning

Creeling

Drying

Cutting

Continuous Polycondensation Transfer Line

Gear Metering Pumps

Drawing/Cooling

Baling

Spinning/ Quenching Take-up/Winding

Doffing Texturing

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OE_ANZ_Textile Value Chain 279x213_ITMA-B_01.indd 1

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Visit us at ITMA 2019 .

Stall No.H7 - C125 Barcelona, Spain 20 - 26, June 2019

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SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS

MR.SURESH SARAF

MR. NAYAN SARAF

Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com

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April 2019 March 2018

Automatic Fibre-Length-, Impurity-and Spinnability Tester plus Laboratory Spinning Machine

MDTA-4

Automatic Fibre-Length-, Impurity-and Spinnability Tester plus Laboratory Spinning Machine

Impurities Testing One of the most important quality concerns of a spinning mill is the purity grade of the raw material.

Textechno’s latest version of the Micro-Dust and Trash Analyser, the MDTA-4, separates the clean Cotton from impurities and precisely analyses the dust content, fibre fragments, short fibres, neps, seed-coat neps and trash particles. Dust & fibre fragments are seperated from the other impurities by appropriate filters and thereby analysed seperately.

Technical Data MDTA-4 It analyses microdust, fibre fragments, fibre neps, fused Fibre, digomerz, seed-coat neps and trash content of short and medium staple natural and man-made fibre samples as well as the individual -fibre length and opening work. It provides the clean fibres in form of a silver for the further testing, blending or spinning.

Fields of application :

Accurate evaluation of fibre material prior to purchase.

Easy, efficient and replicated production of fibre blends and mixtures from a cost effective perspective.

Clear evaluation of the cleaning degree of both opening and cleaning machinery.

Determination of nep sensitivity of raw material processing of man-made fibres to evaluate the effects of spinfinish, spinning properties and possible deposits (Powdering).

MDTA 4 : Delivers the following data regarding the all fibers : - Cleanability - Extraction of fibre impurities.

- Fibre cohesion - Opening behavior - Stickiness

Supplies information on tendencies and influences, resulting from different raw materials.

Provides for accurate forecasting of yarn properties and their processability.

Enables cost effective compositions of various fibre materials.

Prepares an oriented sliver in the rotoring for further processing.

Automatic fibre length measurement by means of image processing software.

M/s. World Traders MFG. Co.

April 2019

1413, Maker Chambers V, 13th Floor, Nariman Point, Mumbai 400 021(India) Phone: 91-22-2284 3423/2287 2935/2283 3458, Fax: 91-22-22872534 E-Mail: info@wtmcindia.com www.textilevaluechain.com Website : www.wtmcindia.in / www.wtmcindia.com

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Media Partner

3 4 5 AUGUST 2019 SURAT - GUJARAT - INDIA 8

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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore March 2018

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April 2019

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Chief Editor Graphic Designer Associate Editor

: : : :

Ms. Jigna Shah Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Mr. Anant A. Jogale Mr. Swaminathan

INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda Mr. Manohar Samuel Mr. Shailendra Pandey Mr. Ajay Sharma Mr. Avinash Mayekar Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Mr. R.D. Udeshi

: : : : : :

City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Consulting Editor Business Head (DYES), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. : President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd.

EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor : Dr. Ela Dedhia : Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Mr. R.M. Shankar :

HOD knitting, SASMIRA Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Professor, Dean ICT Asst. Director, ATIRA

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher.

Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher.

Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075.

Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

CONTENT 13 - SUSTAINABLE FIBER : Clothing from Spandex

Fibers by Dr. N.N.Mahapatra

17- FABRIC FOCUS: Energy Efficiency Opportunities in Woven Fabric manufacturing in Ludhiana

by Prerna Kapila And B.S. Dhillon

April 2019 42- Benninger 43- Autefa 44- TMAS 46- Crealet AG

NEWS

19- TECHNICAL ARTICLE: Eco Friendly processing of Cotton by DKTE Professors

47-RAYMOND Launches EcoVera in collaboration with Reliance Industries

MARKET REPORT

48-ATE and LUWA mark a Decade of working together

22- COTTON REPORT by MCX India 23- YARN REPORT by Textile Beacon 25- Textile Chemicals Market Report by Transparency Market Research 27- CMAI Apparel Index 29- SURAT REPORT by TVC Reporter

TECHNICAL TEXTILE

49- Birla Cellulose conducts successful hub meet in Salem

50- SHOW CALENDAR INTERVIEWS 51- Sanjay Jain , MD, TT Limited 52- Ajit Chavan, Secretary, Textiles Committee 55- Rajendra Agarwal, MD, Donear Industries Ltd. 53- ASSOCIATION UPDATE : SWISS Textile Machinery

30- Life after life , an Anatomy of the growing flushable wipe dilemma By Jürgen Eizinger, Lenzing AG

Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond

EVENT UPDATE

31- ITAMMA’s Legacy of 75 Years Continue with the Next Generation Front Inside : PICANOL

Page 8: Yarn Expo Surat Page 9: DN Associates

33- Jamboree Fashion Show 2019

Back Inside : Trutzschler

Page 10: ITMA 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

Page 3: Oerlikon

Page 16: Tomsic /Thymas

36- RETECH 38- USTER 39- SAURER 40- SANTEX 40-AMSLER 41- MEERA

Page 4: Sanjay Plastic

Page 53: RETECH

Page 5: LRT

Page 56: Vora Associates

Page 6: SKBS

Page 57: Gartex Texprocess

Page 7: World Trader

Page 58: ITMACH 2019

April 2019

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EDITORTIAL

TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY UP GRADATION IS NEED IN THIS TRANSITION STAGE…!

‘‘

There is no innovation and creativity without failure period.

’’

- Brene Brown

ITMA 2019, wait for entire industry will be over in few weeks’ time.

We will be exploring lot of innovations by Indian and International machinery companies in largest Textile/ Garment Technology Exhibition in Barcelona / Spain. ITMA sets the trend and provide marketplace and knowledge platform for user industry who will be exploring fresh ideas, right solutions to their problems and encouraging collaborative business partnerships for growth.

Entire industry in the world hoping for something good to happen in this depressing time. Across the world industrialist is making huecry for not getting enough business, good margins and survival is tough to across the value chain from Ginner to Retailers.

Indian industry going through transition stage where old technology need to be replaced by new, SME feeling pinch and shut down their industries instead of taking this in right spirit. To be competitive in the global market; Innovation, synergy with value chain partner, knowledge of market updates, Machine lifecycle, maintenance, which technology is good for which product knowledge is must. For Cotton /blended fabrics: Airjet loom, for Synthetic fabrics: Water jet looms, For Furnishing fabric: Rapier looms are best. Different countries around the world offering different technology benefits along with Digital solution, good service and availability of spare parts in the country/ area. Indian SME sector need to come out of fear , add technology cost to the final price to make company viable to run.

Indian Power loom owner can take advantage of Group work shed scheme for maximum benefits.

We wish maximum Indian Textile Entrepreneur visit the exhibition and choose the best technology with service and digitally advanced machines.

Wish you all Productive Growth and See you at ITMA , Barcelona..!

Visit TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN Stall No. Hall No. 8.1 , Stall : D230

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

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April 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER

CLOTHING FROM SPANDEX FIBRES Today fashion designers are much conscious than ever and have up-to date information about the latest fashion trends . The present day consumer demands fashionable garments ,which offer comfort and style , stretch and flexibility , freedom and figure enhancement ,as he takes it as the tool of expressing his personality .As far as comfort is concerned ,polyester/cotton blends are more popular than pure polyester . All cotton garments may be comfortable but have wrinkle problems . It is here Spandex comes to our help in offering wrinkle resistance and garment integrity while offering extra comfort . The wearer of Spandex –containing garment feels less fatigued and muscle strain than the one wearing garments without Spandex . This value of Spandex is well recognized by the fabric and apparel manufacturers as well as the consumers .

The development of spandex was started during World War II. At this time, chemists took on the challenge of developing synthetic replacements for rubber. Two primary motivating factors prompted their research. First, the war effort required most of the available rubber for building equipment. Second, the price of rubber was unstable and it fluctuated frequently. Developing an alternative to rubber could solve both of these problems. At first, their goal was to develop a durable elastic strand based on synthetic polymers . In 1940, the first polyurethane elastomers were produced. These polymers produced millable gums, which were an adequate alternative to rubber. Around the same time, scientists at Du Pont produced the first nylon polymers. These early nylon polymers were stiff and rigid, so efforts were begun to make them more elastic.

When scientists found that other polyurethanes could be made into fine threads, they decided that these materials might be useful in making more stretchable nylons or in making lightweight garments.

The first spandex fibers were produced on an experimental level by one of the early pioneers in polymer chemistry, Farbenfabriken Bayer. He earned a German patent for his synthesis in 1952. The final development of the fibers were worked out independently by scientists at Du Pont and the U.S. Rubber Company. Du Pont used the brand name Lycra and began full scale manufacture in 1962. They are currently the world leader in the production of spandex fibers.

The first spandex fibers were produced on an experimental level by one of the early pioneers in polymer chemistry, Farbenfabriken Bayer. He earned a German patent for his synthesis in 1952. The final development of the fibers were worked out independently by scientists at Du Pont and the U.S. Rubber Company. Du Pont used the

April 2019

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brand name Lycra and began full scale manufacture in 1962. They are currently the world leader in the production of spandex fibers.

Spandex, Lycra or elastane, is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It is one and the same .It is stronger and more durable than rubber, its major non-synthetic competitor. It is a polyurethane-polyurea copolymer that was invented in 1959 by chemist Joseph Shivers at DuPont’s Benger Laboratory in Waynesboro, Virginia. The material was patented by the Spanjian brothers—Robert and Richard—and was further used in their company, Spanjian Sportwear. When first introduced, it revolutionized many areas of the clothing industry.The product name “Spandex” was given to the Spanjian family after DuPont recognized their contributions. “Spandex” is the preferred name in North America and in many European countries it is referred to as “elastane”. In India it is commonly used as Lycra. A brand name associated with spandex is Lycra (owned by Invista). Other spandex trademarks include Elaspan (also Invista’s), creora (Hyosung, ROICA & Dorlastan (Asahi Kasei), Linel (Fillattice), and ESPA (Toyobo).

Materials Used for Spandex Fibers Many raw materials are used to make the unique stretchable spandex fibers. They include prepolymers which produce the backbone of the fiber, stabilizers which protect the integrity of the polymer, and textile colorants to give attractive shades to the fibers and the spandex fabrics. Two kinds of prepolymers are reacted to produce the spandex fiber polymer back-bone- the flexible macroglycol and the rigid diisocyanate. Macroglycol can be anything from among polyester, polyether, polycarbonate, polycaprolactone or some combination of these. These are long and flexible chain polymers having hydroxyl groups (-OH) on both ends, responsible for the stretching characteristic of spandex. The polymeric diisocyanate is a shorter and rigid chain polymer, having an isocyanate (-NCO) group on both ends. This molecule provides strength to the spandex fibers. Catalyst such as diazobicyclo octane is used to initiate reaction between the two types of prepolymers. Other low molecular weight amines are used to control the molecular weight of the fibers.

Apart from the basic prepolymers, catalysts etc. stabilizers, such as antioxidants, are added to protect the fibers from damaging sources like heat, light, atmospheric contaminants, and chlorine. Ultraviolet (UV) screeners such as hydroxybenzotriazoles are added to protect it against light degradation. Other stabilizers such as for preventing discoloration caused by atmospheric pollutants may also

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER be used. As spandex is often used for making swim wear, anti-mildew additives are also added to it. Stabilizers added to the spandex fibers, are resistant to solvent exposure as this could have a damaging effect on the fiber.

Dispersed and acid dyes are typically used for giving color to spandex fibers. However, special dyeing methods are adopted if the spandex fibers are interwoven with other fibers such as nylon fiber or polyester fiber.

A variety of raw materials are used to produce stretchable spandex fibers. This includes prepolymers which produce the backbone of the fiber, stabilizers which protect the integrity of the polymer, and colorants.

Two types of prepolymers are reacted to produce the spandex fiber polymer back-bone. One is a flexible macro glycol while the other is a stiff diisocyanate. The macroglycol can be a polyester, polyether, polycarbonate, polycaprolactone or some combination of these. These are long chain polymers, which have hydroxyl groups (-OH) on both ends. The important feature of these molecules is that they are long and flexible. This part of the spandex fiber is responsible for its stretching characteristic. The other prepolymer used to produce spandex is a polymeric diisocyanate. This is a shorter chain polymer, which has an isocyanate (-NCO) group on both ends. The principal characteristic of this molecule is its rigidity. In the fiber, this molecule provides strength.

When the two types of prepolymers are mixed together, they interact to form the spandex fibers. In this reaction, the hydroxyl groups (-OH) on the macro glycols react with the isocyanates. Each molecule gets added on to the end of another molecule, and a long chain polymer is formed.

This is known as a step-growth or addition polymerization. To initiate this reaction, a catalyst such as diazobicyclo[2.2.2]octane must be used. Other low molecular weight amines are added to control the molecular weight of the fibers.

Spandex fibers are vulnerable to damage from a variety of sources including heat, light atmospheric contaminants, and chlorine. For this reason, stabilizers are added to protect the fibers. Antioxidants are one type of stabilizer.

Various antioxidants are added to the fibers, including monomeric and polymeric hindered phenols. To protect against light degradation, ultraviolet (UV) screeners such as hydroxybenzotriazoles are added. Compounds which inhibit fiber discoloration caused by atmospheric pollutants are another type of stabilizer added. These are typically compounds with tertiary amine functionality, which can interact with the oxides of nitrogen in air pollution.

Since spandex is often used for swimwear, anti-mildew additives must also be added. All of the stabilizers that are added to the spandex fibers are designed to be resistant to solvent exposure since this could have a damaging effect on the fiber.

When they are first produced, spandex fibers are white.

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Therefore, colorants are added to improve their aesthetic appearance. Dispersed and acid dyes are typically used. If the spandex fibers are interwoven with other fibers such as nylon or polyester, special dying methods are required

Manufacturing Process Spandex fibers are produced in four different ways including melt extrusion, reaction spinning, solution dry spinning, and solution wet spinning. Each of these methods involve the initial step of reacting monomers to produce a prepolymer. Then the prepolymer is reacted further, in various ways, and drawn out to produce a long fiber. Since solution dry spinning is used to produce over 90% of the world’s spandex fibers, it is described.

Polymer reactions The first step in the production of spandex is the production of the prepolymer. This is done by mixing a macroglycol with a diisocyanate monomer. The compounds are mixed in a reaction vessel and under the right conditions they react to form a prepolymer. Since the ratio of the component materials produces fibers with varying characteristics, it is strictly controlled. A typical ratio of glycol to diisocyanate may be 1:2.

In dry spinning fiber production, the prepolymer is further reacted with an equal amount of diamine. This is known as a chain extension reaction. The resulting solution is diluted with a solvent to produce the spinning solution. The solvent helps make the solution thinner and more easily handled. It can then be pumped into the fiber production cell.

Producing the fibers The spinning solution is pumped into a cylindrical spinning cell where it is cured and converted into fibers. In this cell, the polymer solution is forced through a metal plate, called a spinneret, which has small holes throughout. This causes the solution to be aligned in strands of liquid polymer. As the strands pass through the cell, they are heated in the presence of a nitrogen and solvent gas.

These conditions cause the liquid polymer to chemically react and form solid strands.

As the fibers exit the cell, a specific amount of the solid strands are bundled together to produce the desired thickness. This is done with a compressed air device that twists the fibers together. In reality, each fiber of spandex is made up of many smaller individual fibers that adhere to one another due to the natural stickiness of their surface.

Final processing The fibers are then treated with a finishing agent. This may be magnesium stearate or another polymer such as poly(dimethyl-siloxane). These finishing materials prevent the fibers from sticking together and aid in textile manufacture. After this treatment, the fibers are trans-

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April 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER ferred through a series of rollers onto a spool. The windup speed of the entire process can be anywhere from 300-500 mi (482.7-804.5 km) per minute depending on the thickness of the fibers.

When the spools are filled with fiber, they are put into final packaging and shipped to textile manufacturers and other customers. Here, the fibers may be woven with other fibers such as cotton or nylon to produce the fabric that is used in clothing manufacture. This fabric can also be dyed to produce a desired color.

Properties of Spandex Fibre The most significant characteristic of Spandex is its stretchability. It can be stretched to a great length and then also recovers its near to original shape. It can, in fact, be stretched to almost 500% of its length. It is lightweight, soft, smooth, supple and more durable and has higher retroactive ability than rubber. As such, when Spandex is used for making any clothing, it gives the best fit and comfort and also prevents bagging and sagging of the garment. It is also heat-settable which means that it facilitates transforming puckered fabrics into flat fabrics, or flat fabrics into permanent rounded shapes. Spandex fibers or fabrics can be easily dyed and they also resist damage by body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents.

These fabrics are also abrasion resistant. When Spandex is sewn, the needle causes little or no damage from “needle cutting” compared to the older types of elastic materials. The Spandex fiber diameters range from 10 denier to 2500 denier and can be found in both, clear and opaque lusters.

Lycra T-400 is a new elastic fibre based on bicomponent technology, which offers improved comfort, handle, wrinkle-resistance and easy-care properties in knitted and woven fabrics. Lycra T-400 is normally dyed under HT conditions at 130 degree centigrade. Good tone-in-tone dyeing of the single components can be achieved at this temperature, without significant loss of stretch recovery properties. DyStar recommends for Lycra T-400. y Strength: 0.55-1.0 gpd y Extension at Break: 520-610 % y Specific Gravity: 1.20-1.25 y Set % at 600% stretch: 70% y Moisture Regain: 0.8-1.2 h It is a thermoplastic fibres which sticks at 170 deg C and melts at 230 deg C h It has an excellent resistance to sunlight h It is resistant to insects and microorganisms. h It is resistant to common solvents such as dry cleaning solvents and saturated hydrocarbons.

Chemical Properties It has good resistance to cold dilute Acids, Hot concentrated acids slightly yellow it.

April 2019

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It has a good resistance to weak and cold alkalies. It has good resistance to cosmetic oils and lotions. Chlorites and hypochlorites attack the fibre. When heated the fibres fuse and do not shrink from the flame. They burn and produce soft fluffy black ash. Spandex is a man-made elastic fibre invented and produced only by DuPont®.It’s remarkable properties of stretch and recovery enhance all fabrics and garments in which it is used, adding easy comfort and freedom of movement and improving fit and shape retention. Swimwear and lingerie owe their figureflattering fit to Spandex. All types of hosiery are softer, smoother-fitting and more durable thanks to Spandex.

In short, a little bit of Spandex makes all types of apparel fit better, feel better and look better. Spandex belongs to the generic elastane classification of man-made fibres(known as spandex in the US and Canada) and is described in technical terms as a segmented polyurethane it is composed of “soft”, or flexible, segments bonded together with “hard”, or rigid, segments. This gives the fibre it’s built-in, lasting elasticity. Spandex can be stretched four to seven times its initial length, yet springs back to it’s original length once tension is released.

While Spandex appears to be a single continuous thread, it is in reality a bundle of tiny filaments.

BLENDING Spandex is never used alone; it is always combined with another fiber (or fibers), natural or man-made. Fabrics enhanced with Spandex retain the appearance of the majority fibre.

The type of fabric and it’s end use determine the amount and type of Spandex required to ensure optimum performance and aesthetics. As little as 2 percent Spandex is enough to improve a fabric’s movement, drape and shape retention, while fabrics for high-performance garments such as swimwear and active sportwear may contain as much as 20-30 percent Spandex. Weaving or knitting techniques, together with fabric type and end use, determine whether Spandex is used in a bare or covered yarn form.

The material used in the making of the Cotton-Lycra line of Snob underwear consist of 90% Cotton and 10% Spandex(Lycra) There are many advantages of nylon/Lycra warp knitted fabrics,( Lycra 10-20% ) such as good tenacity and abrasion resistance due to the nylon, and excellent elastic recovery property due to the Lycra. The fabrics also have a fine moisture releasing, soft hand-feeling. Moreover, clothings, which are sewed with this kind of fabrics give people a feeling of pressure-free comfort, and help to build a perfect figure. The fabric selected is the nylon and Lycra blend. The dyestuff used for dyeing is acid dyestuff and the dyeing method is one-bath-two-section.

USES OF SPANDEX FIBRE Spandex is used in a variety of different clothing types.

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER Since it is lightweight and does not restrict movement, it is most often used in athletic wear. This includes such garments as swimsuits, bicycle pants, and exercise wear. The form-fitting properties of spandex makes it a good for use in under-garments. Hence, it is used in waist bands, support hose, bras, and briefs. Spandex is a synthetic fiber that has an exceptional characteristic of elasticity due to which it is also known as elastane. It is lightweight, soft, strong and very stretchable. In fact, spandex fiber was developed as an alternative to rubber but has a better quality than it. The name Lycra has also come to be a synonymous of spandex. However, Lycra is the trademark brand but it has become so popular that all the varieties of spandex are popularly referred to as Lycra. Due to its durability and stretchability, spandex is mostly used to make sports wear and work wear, specially for factory workers.

It wears like a second skin and for risk involved jobs like that of machine operators, Lycra clothing is like a boon.

dancers and others ,wrestling singlet ,rowing unisuit , motion capture suits shaped garments such as bra cups etc. Home furnishings, such as micro bead pillows.

In clothing it usually appears as a small percentage of total material. In North America it is rare in men’s clothing, but prevalent in women’s. It is used more often in women’s as their clothes are usually more form-fitting. It is usually mixed with a greater percentage of one other textile such as cotton or polyester. This reduces the reflection of light to hardly noticeable levels.

Spandex Fiber is mainly used to make such garments that require great comfort and fit. As such, they find applications in manufacturing of hosiery, swimsuits, aerobic or exercise wear, netball body suits ,ski pants, disco jeans , skinny jeans , belts, underwear,zentai, golf jackets, disposable diaper, gloves ,slacks , hosiery, leggings,socks,diapers , waist bands, bra straps and bra side panels etc. They are even great for making shaped garments like bra cups.

Spandex fabrics are also used to make compression garments, such as surgical hose, support hose, bicycle pants, foundation garments,dance belts worn by male ballet

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April 2019

FABRIC FOCUS

ENERGY EFFICIENCY OPPORTUNITIES IN WOVEN FABRIC MANUFACTURING IN LUDHIANA Cotton and woolen textiles comprise the most important part of textile industry of Ludhiana. Even though the place is world famous for its knitted products, the city has a thriving power loom industry with more than 200 power loom units of small to large sizes functioning in the cluster. In these units, handlooms, power looms and automatic machines are used simultaneously and producing various products ranging from high value pashmina shawls to low cost acrylic or polyester shawls, blankets, woven fabric for domestic as well as export purpose. The industry is also making silk stoles of exquisite quality, majority of which are exported all over the world. This sector has always been viewed as a major source of employment generation and rapid expansion of population has also helped in the growth of this sector as clothing continues to be a most basic requirement. The industry which was initially dependent on handlooms has gradually shifted towards power looms and specialized high speed looms thus increasing the energy requirement of the industry where initially it was all labour intensive work without any need of electricity.

Technology Status There are many categories of textile units in the Ludhiana cluster, engaged in different processes related to the manufacture of knitwear products. The most energy–intensive units are those engaged in dyeing, processing and spinning. The printing units are relatively less energy intensive. Among all the units, energy cost forms the largest component of production expenses. The textile units in the Ludhiana cluster consume energy mainly in the forms of electricity for equipment and machineries as well as lighting, cooling and temperature control systems etc.

Number of utilities involved in an industry depends upon the production capacity and process requirement of the industry. The saving potential in terms of energy depends on the resource utilization pattern of the industry. Numerous energy audits in textile units have displayed that 30 per cent of the savings in terms of rupees can be achieved in the plant by implementing the best practices in the process itself. Therefore together with the utilities, process should also be an area of concern.

Installation of meters for monitoring and energy savings One of the best ways to track or monitor the various parameters involved within the utilities and processes is by installing meters at the generation and end usage points.

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This helps track the total generation and consumption of electricity at the process and equipment side. This also helps in operating the equipments at their best operating points and in preparing benchmarks. Installation of meters at key locations inside an industry enables the factory to closely track resources and energy consumption for specific purposes. This helps factory to focus on improving efficiency in resource intensive processes and to do proper costing of the products.

Installing and operating accurate meters or software are the fundamental steps to benchmark performance and to enhance efficiency. It allows plants to identify and respond to leaks, detects unusual points in resource use and provides feedback on the effectiveness of measures that the industry undertakes to improve their processes.

Meters and measurement software reinforce the benefits of efficiency increasing measures and encourage continuous improvement. Diesel generator is also an alternate source of electricity generation at the work station site.

Special care needs to be given to this, as generation of electricity from DG sets is a costly affair. The main parameters which need to be taken care of are fuel consumption on hourly basis, frequency, kWh, ampere, voltage and measurement of the flue gas temperature.

Best Practices for saving energy in terms of electricity Given the associated utilities, some improvements in industries require relatively large investments in equipment modernization. But there are certain initiatives which provide a particularly easy starting point for increasing manufacturing efficiency as compared to process optimization methods. Each opportunity identified should be evaluated in terms of initial investment required for improvement or replacements in the utilities, payback period and resources savings. Although individual leaks may not seem important in the overall consumption scenario, they can be responsible for a surprisingly significant loss of resources over the course of a year.

Some best practices that can be identified and utilized for probable energy savings are h Minimize blower inlet and outlet obstructions h Clean screens and filters regularly. h Minimize blower speed. h Use low- slip or no- slip belts. h Check belt tension regularly. h Eliminate variable pitch pulleys.

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FABRIC FOCUS h Use variable speed drives for large variable blower loads. h Use energy- efficient motors for continuous or nearcontinuous operation. h Eliminate ductwork leaks. h Turn blowers off when not needed. h Power factor improvement. h Installation of separate transformers for lighting system. h Balancing of phase-wise voltages, currents at motor/ machine end terminals.

timers, photocells and occupancy sensors. y Install efficient alternatives to incandescent lighting, mercury vapour lighting etc. such as low pressure sodium, high pressure sodium, metal halide, fluorescents and mercury vapour and incandescent. y Select ballasts and lamps carefully with high power factor and long term efficiency in mind. y Upgrade obsolete fluorescent systems to compact fluorescents and electronic ballasts.

In industries it is observed that the power factor is maintained near to unity only at the main incomer side. The best way to improve power factor is by installing a correct capacity bank of capacitor at the motor or machine end terminal side so that exceed current can reduce at the motor end and ultimately reduce the overall power consumption.

• Consider painting the walls with a lighter colour.

Voltages between all three phases should be equal at the motor end terminal. Any unbalance in the phase voltage may lead to increase in the winding temperature of the phase and thus increase the current drawn at the terminal end. Though implementation of this best practice may provide small saving opportunities, however in terms of maintaining the operating efficiency and service life of the motor, steps to balance the voltage in all phases should be undertaken. As a general rule, 1 % imbalance in voltage causes 7 % imbalance in current and approximately 5 % increase in motor losses.

For proper work execution, adequate lighting should be available so that there is proper visibility which permits healthy observation of the product. In general practice in most of the industries, tube lights with fixtures are used at work stations and high wattage lamps are used for peripheral lightings. The higher lux level can be reduced to a suitable level by removing a fitting. Quality of light being received at the work station depends upon the reflection factor in the reflector used, it is better to replace complete fitting including fixtures in order to get proper and required lux level at the work place.

Some tips for energy efficiency improvements in lighting system are y Reduce excessive illumination levels to standard levels using decamping etc. y Aggressively control lighting with clock timers, delay

• Consider downsizing the fixtures in order to prevent excessive usage.

• Use task lighting and reduce background illumination.

• Re-evaluate exterior lighting strategy, type and control.

• Change exit signs from incandescent to LED. Apart from this, motor performance tests should be conducted wherever applicable so that motors operate at maximum efficiency without overloading or under loading. The industries should use energy efficient motors where economical and their alignment should be checked periodically. There should be proper ventilation and proper efficiency restoration must be there after rewinding.

Many units can take significant steps towards reducing wastes and costs by implementing small changes in good housekeeping which require little investment beyond improved management and attention to detail. Poor storage practices often lead to material being damaged or dirty resulting in making the industry give a discount on the same. It is a good practice to demarcate a special storage area in the work place, raise the floor level of storage areas and reduce leakages or breakage. Unclean work sites can lead to rework through contamination of textile products. Regular cleaning of workspace should be the responsibility of the staff at each work station. Adopting these quick opportunities help industries to develop a clean production mentality that can lead to substantial improvements and cost efficiencies.

PRERNA KAPILA | B.S. DHILLON KRISHI VIGYAN KENDRA, AMRITSAR

“ Just listen to the still voice within. This is the mind to trust.

This is god consciousness speaking, not the ego that is seeking recognition.

—Angela Walker

“

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April 2019

TECHNICAL ARTICLE

“ECOFRIENDLY PROCESSING OF COTTON” Textile industry is the largest one next to agricultural in the country where most of the people are employed. Wet processing of cotton required high quantity of water and energy for desizing, scoring and bleaching process. Conventionally these processes are carried by using harsh chemical which is give water pollution. In order to control water pollution enzyme can be used of processing of cotton. At a same time enzyme required low temperature which is give energy conservation. This study is focused on comparative analysis between conventional desizing with enzyme desizing, alkaline scouring with bio scouring, conventional bleaching with bio bleaching and conventional combine scouring bleaching with bio combine scouring-bleaching. So advantages of bioprocessing can be described in terms of ecology as well as economy.

Keywords:Enzyme, Conventional processing, Bio scouring, Bio bleaching.

Introduction Cotton is the most important cellulose fibre in textile. But natural cotton fibre contains some impurities. Cotton fibre is highly hydroscopic also slightly coloured .In further processing cotton should absorb water to get satisfactory result. At a same time colour of cotton should be white before dyeing to achieve final required colour. Hence in order to get absorbency and whiteness scouring and bleaching process become important one. Traditionally scouring of cotton was carried out by using caustic soda and sodium carbonate. Both this chemical having high pH and increase load on ETP and because of higher concentration of alkali tenacity of cotton decrease. Bleaching of cotton also required high alkaline pH and high concentration of H2O2 reduces tenacity of cotton. Hence in order to save water this two process carried out in one bath As this two process done in one bath load over ETP get reduces but effluent which is generated having higher pH and total organic compound .

To reduce the water pollution in textile wet processing, we have to reduce the use of such high concentrate chemical. Also such chemical are available in market which does not affect the properties of cotton. One of the chemical which can be used in wet processing is enzyme. Use of enzyme in wet processing reduces the water pollution. Also required temperature is low as comparative to conventional processes hence use of energy is also low. Enzyme work on specific substrate it will not affect the properties of cotton and most important thing is there is less effluent generation. If bio-scouring and bio-bleaching could be combined into one process, large amounts of water, energy, time and auxiliary agents would be saved.

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Enzyme Enzyme is a Greek word enzymos having meaning ‘in the cell’ or from the cell’. Enzymes are the high molecular weight protein and it is a made up of more than 250 amino acid [2]. They are biocatalyst which increases the rate of reaction. Enzymes are very specific in their action and controlled by concentration, time, temperature and pH. Enzymes are obtained from plants, microorganism and animal. Enzyme converts substrate (beginning molecule) in to product (different molecule). Enzymes are classified as follow [3] 1. Oxidoreductases – oxidation, reduction reaction 2. Transferase – Transfer of functional group 3. Hydrolases – Hydrolysis reaction 4. Lyases – Addition to double bond 5. Isomerses – Isomerisation 6. Ligases – Formation of bond The enzyme contains three dimensional activity centers in a structure. The active side is a one part of enzyme and get combine with substrate (beginning molecule) and forms a complex to catalyze a reaction. Finally substrate converted in to final product (different molecule) as shown in fig 1[4]

Figure 1: Lock & Key analogy of enzyme

Textile is one of the growing industries that consume lots of water energy and harsh chemical. The enzyme can be used for various applications in textile wet processing like desizing, Scouring, Bleaching, dyeing Bio-polishing, Peroxide killer, Anti shrink treatment for wool, Printing and finishing. Also combination of two processes like desizing and scouring, scouring and bleaching Desizing-scouringbleaching is possible by using enzyme [3] [5] [6]

Enzyme desizing Conventionally desizing is done by using hydrochloric acid or oxidizing agent. These chemicals reduce the strength of basic fabric by attack on starch as well as cellulose.

Enzyme is the one option to avoid reduction in tensile strength of fabric [7]. Fabric is padded through solution

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE containing 1 gpl amylase and 0.5 gpl sodium chloride at 400C. For this process required pH is acidic (5.5). Fabric is padded by using padding mangle (100% expression) and batched for 24 hour at ambient temperature. The Desized fabric washed twice with hot water and once with cold water and then dried [8]. Desizing by exhaust method is also possible where fabric is treated with 1gp amylases enzyme at 700C for 60 min with acidic pH (5.5) [9].

Enzyme desizing gives following advantages over conventional desizing method [3] 1. Less tensile strength loss 2. No hydro cellulose formation 3. Less shrinkage problem 4. Less time required 5. No fibre damage 6. Less weight loss 7. Less water pollution

Enzyme scouring Cotton could not absorb water during processing within specific time (3 Sec) because of 0.4-1 % oil fat waxes in their structure. Removal of oil fat and waxes become so important to get satisfactory results in further processing.

Conventionally scouring of cotton is done by using sodium hydroxide which is highly alkaline in nature. Along with impurities it break the bonds cellulose causes reduction in tensile strength. Use of highly alkaline chemical causes high COD (chemical oxygen demand), BOD (biological oxygen demand) and TDS in wastewater [10]. Conventional scouring process is commonly used in industry but nowa-day it gives bad effect on environment. Conventional can be replaced by eco-friendly enzyme scouring process [11]. Fabric is treated with pectinase 5 gpl enzyme at 550C in alkaline pH (8) for 60 min. this give satisfactory results and absorbency is depend on concentration of enzyme.

Weight loss is less than the conventional scouring which means no strength loss in fabric [9].

Enzymatic scouring of cotton fabric can be done by using various enzymes like cellulose, lipase, pectinase etc.

Whiteness index obtained by the enzyme scouring is 8-10% more as compare to conventional scouring also no loss in tensile strength. Enzyme scouring give less BOD, COD, TDS as compare to conventional process. This method can be used for cotton as well as cotton blends by changing the enzyme [12]. Alkaline pectinase enzyme can be combined with cellulose enzyme to get more absorbency. This process gives more absorbency but decrees the tensile strength of fabric [8]. Advantages of enzyme scouring are less energy required, less water required, low cost of chemical, good absorbency, less strength loss, better dyeing effect. Lower effluent load soft feel same depth of colour. Also it can be combined with peroxide bleaching which reduce the cost of process [11] [13] [14].

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Enzyme Bleaching Bleaching is the process in which natural colouring impurities are removed to get final colour in dyeing. H2O2 is mostly used as bleaching agent in bleaching of natural, synthetic as well as blends of textile material. Mostly pH of H2O2 bleaching is 11.5 which is highly alkaline at a same time temperature required is also about 90oC [15].

H2O2 is not completely removed from the fabric which may give problem like uneven dyeing, hydrolysis of reactive dye etc. It required several washing treatment to remove H2O2 from fabric. Catalase enzymes are used to remove H2O2 from the fabric which removes total H2O2 from fabric by complete decomposition of hydrogen peroxide.

It converts residual peroxide in to water and oxygen [10].

In order to save water and energy bleaching can be carried out by using glucose oxidase enzyme which is used as alone or can be combined with peroxidases also. H2O2 generated from glucose oxidases get combined with peroxidases which give better whiteness index as compare to conventional bleaching agent [6] Desized and scoured fabric were bleached by using glucose oxidase enzyme.

The whiteness index is 73% more than scoured fabric.

Satisfactory degree of whiteness can be achieved by using glucose oxidase [9]. Enzymatic bleaching with paracetic acid gives better result than conventional process at neutral pH and lower temperature i.e. 650C It give high whiteness, less strength loss and good water absorbency compare to traditional process [16].

Enzyme combine scouring-bleaching In a today’s competitive world energy conservation is the important to minimize final product cost as well as environmental degradation also. In order to save energy combination of two process and process modification become essential. One such approach is combination of scouring and bleaching in one process. Temperature of process can be decrease up to remarkable level by using some activator like potassium persulphate [17]. Use of ecofriendly chemical becomes so important because of increasing cost of water, energy and environmental aspect. Combined use of ι-amylase and hemicellulose/pectinase in the pre-treatment of cotton gives combine desizing and scouring with better results than conventional and individual process. Glucose oxidase enzyme can be combine with other enzyme to get satisfactory result in bleaching [6].One bath bio scouring and bleaching of cotton give better results of absorbency, reduce load ETP and gives less degradation of cotton than alkali scouring and bleaching [18].Combine scouring and bleaching by using scouring enzyme and hydrogen peroxide give same effect that of individually process [14]. Traditionally scouring and bleaching process carried out at the temperature 1200C in higher alkaline pH. It took lots of energy as well as water in further washing process of fabric which is converted in an effluent. In order to save energy and water higher alkaline chemical should be replace by ecofriendly

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April 2019

TECHNICAL ARTICLE chemical. Pectinase enzyme is an alternative to sodium hydroxide in scouring which give same result at low temperature. H2O2 can be replacing by using peroxidases, laccase /mediator or glucose oxidase. Bio-scouring and bio-bleaching can combine in one bath. Fabric is treated with scouring and bleaching enzyme at 650C for 60 min.

Increase in temperature of this bath give better degree of whiteness. This process leads to less time, less energy, better results than conventional process [16].

Conclusion Use of enzyme is one of the methods to replace the conventional processing chemical which create water pollution. Amylase enzyme gives satisfactory results as compare to acid desizing. Enzymatic scouring can be carried out at low temperature as compare to conventional alkaline scouring. It reduces the water pollution that is les COD, BOD and TDS. Also weight loss is less as compare to conventional process. H2O2 can be successfully replaced by using glucose oxidase enzyme and catalase enzyme can be used for the removal of residual H2O2 from the fabric. Combine scouring and bleaching of cotton by using enzyme save water and energy. This process required less energy and less water as compare to conventional process.

References 1. Prof. S. P. Mishra,Cotton, A Text Book of Fibre Science and Technology”Page 71-87 2. Cited on http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/03/ enzyme-and-its-applications-in-textile.html 3. Ketan Verma “Enzyme and its benefits for textile process specific load on effluent as well as improvement in fabric” Colourage Dec 2015 38-44 4. Vaibhav Nagaje, Ashish Hulle “Enzyme in textile processing” Colourage, December 2004,33 5. Bikash Jena, Bishnu Priya Das, A. Khandual , Sanjay Sahu & Lingaraj Behera “ Eco friendly processing of textile” Elsevier Material Today Proceeding 2 (2015) 1776-1791 6. Klaus Opwis, Dierk Knitte, Eckhard Schollmeyer “Use of enzyme in pretreatment of cotton” Deutsches Textilforschungszentrum Nord-West e.V. Adlerstr. 1, D-47798 Krefeld, Germany

7. Mahesh sharma “Application of enzyme in textile processing” Colourage, January 1993 8. Ali Hebeish , Mohamed Hashem , Nihal Shaker, Mohamed Ramadan, Bahiya El-Sadek,Marwa Abdel Hady “New development for combined bioscouring and bleaching of cotton-based fabrics” Elsevire Carbohydrate Polymers 78 (2009) 961–972 9. Tzanko Tzanov, Margarita Calafellb, Georg M. Guebitzc, Artur Cavaco-Pauloa, “Bio Processing of Cotton Fabric” Journal of Enzyme and Microbial Technology 29 (2001) 357-362 10. N. N. Mahapatra “Use of enzyme in textile processing” Asian Dyer, july 2010, 53 11.M. Azizul Hoque, Abu Yousuf Mohamamd Anwarul Azim “Using Enzymes as an Aid of Better and EcoFriendly Scouring Processing” American Journal of Engineering Research, Volume-5, Issue-6, 167-182 12. Prof. S. K. Laga, Miss. Geeta K. Chunari “Bioscouring: An overview” Colourage, April 2015,39 13. A Edvin Sunder, G nalankilli “Bio-scouring” Asin Textile Journal, January 2002 14. A. K. Patra, Gaurav Agrawal, Sumit Garg “ Enzymatic scouring & bleaching compatibility of cotton” The Indian Textile Journal, April 2004/25 15. Ms. Sonia Hossain, Md. Koushic Uddin “comparative analysis between conventional pretreatment and bioprocessing” International Journal of Engineering & Technology vol:11 no:3 16.Nina Spicka and Petra Forte Tavcer “New Combined Bio Scouring and Bio Bleaching Process Of Cotton Fabric ” Material and Technology 47 (2013) 4, 409-412 17.A. I. Wasif , Y. M. Indi “Combined scouring-bleaching of cotton using potassium persulphate” Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, vol 35, December 2010, pp353-357 18. Geeta N. sheth, Aparna A. Musale “Single bath bioscouring and bleaching of cellulosic yarn knitted and woven fabric”, Colourage nov 2015

SATISH Y PATIL, YASHOVARDHAN M INDI DKTE’S TEXTILE & ENGINEERING INSTITUTE ICHALKARANJI

“ Nothing glows brighter than the heart awakened to the light of “

love that lives within it.

—Guy Finley

April 2019

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COTTON REPORT POLICY DEVELOPMENTS, IMPROVING EXPORT PROSPECTS AND REDUCED CROP ESTIMATES, DRIVING COTTON MARKETS IN MARCH In a landmark development of immense significance for the long term expansion of India’s textile industry, shipments of apparels and made-up goods, accounting for 55 per cent of India’s total textiles export, have been granted refund of State and Central taxes. The Cabinet, last month, approved the scheme to offer rebate on both the State and Central embedded taxes for the apparel and made-up goods such as carpets, bed-sheets, table cloths and curtains. Compared to competing countries, export of made-ups, especially home textiles from India, was facing huge challenges due to high import duty. The scheme is expected to go a long way in helping exporters in overcoming this disadvantage and increase exports.

On another front government has announced a Transport and Marketing Assistance (TMA) scheme for providing financial assistance for transport and marketing of agriculture products to boost exports of such commodities to certain countries in Europe and North America. Under the TMA scheme, which aims at boosting agricultural exports, government will reimburse a certain portion of freight charges and provide assistance for marketing of agricultural produce. These benefits, once operationalized, can spur trading interest in related commodities, resulting in growth and development of India’s agri-commodity market.

Meanwhile, Indian traders signed contracts to ship 800,000 bales of cotton to China as demand surged from the world’s biggest consumer of the fibre due to a rally in

a halt due to the tensions between the two neighbours.

India is set to regain its market share in Bangladesh, world’s largest importer of cotton, which has been falling since 2017, aided by the memorandum of understanding (MoU) proposed to be signed by the Cotton Association of India and Bangladesh Cotton Association. A similar MoU is proposed to be signed with Bangladesh Textile Mills Association as well. India is the world’s largest producer of cotton and Bangladesh emerged as the largest destination for Indian cotton due to its proximity. These MoUs are being viewed as attempts to regain India’s share in Bangladesh’s cotton imports, which fell to 46% in 2018 from 51% in 2017.

Prices in the cotton futures market has moved up 5 per cent to Rs 21,060 per bale (one bale is 170 kg) on reports of improving demand from China and domestic mills.

The cotton output for this year is expected to be lowest in eight years due to delayed and deficient monsoon in some of the key cotton-growing states and lower acreage in some of the southern states, pushed cotton prices upwards.

MCX Cotton Derivatives at a Glance Volatility Mar-19

0.90%

YTD 2019

0.74%

Avg Daily Turnover (crs) Mar-19

310

YTD 2019

233

Avg Daily Volume (bales) Mar-19

1,45,425

YTD 2019

1,11,314

Avg Daily OI (bales) Mar-19

4,53,486

YTD 2019

3,76,821

Delivery (bales) prices in China. Cotton growers had been perturbed by declining exports to Pakistan, 2nd largest buyer of Indian cotton, over increased Indo-Pak tensions following the Pulwama terror attack. But they are breathing light now due to a spurt in demand for cotton from China, especially at a time when cotton exports to Pakistan have come to

22

Mar-19

36,100

YTD 2019

1,15,900

Stocks (bales) As on Mar 30, 2019

2,14,700

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April 2019

YARN REPORT Cotton export slumps, yarn inches up in March Cotton export shipmen dips in March Cotton exports volume continued to slump, to 5.1 lakh bales (170 kg each) in March as against 12.5 lakh bales ex-ported in the same month of previous marketing year (2017-18). In March, cotton shipment value in US$ term declined by 37% YoY. China was the largest importer of Indian cotton in March, followed by Bangladesh and Pakistan. Vietnam was the fourth largest importer of Indian cotton during the month.

China is showing interest in buying US cotton, as per dis-

Spun yarns shipment totaled 160 million kg (up 17%) worth US$464 million (up 8%) implying an average unit value realization of US$2.78 per kg, up US cent 1 compared to previous month but down US cents 24 from a year ago average. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weakened from INR64.21 to INR69.17 this march, which augurs well for exports. China was the largest buyer of spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value.

(Comparable shipment values for the same set of ports were 147 million kg – up 8%, worth US$425 million – down 09%) Cotton yarn export was at 130 million kg worth US$380 million (INR2,630 crore), up 6% from previous year’s level in US$ terms. 77 countries imported cotton yarn from India at an average price of US$2.92 a kg, up US cents 2 from previous month and down US cents 27 from last year.

cussions during the 12 April meeting of the Plains Cotton Growers (PCG) Advisory Group. There were positive signals regarding movement of US cotton to China in anticipation of a trade deal between US and China. China normally import high quality cotton, and are interested in lower grades (31 and 41 color grade) at a discounted price. A trade deal will enable these cottons to enter China. However, cotton buyers currently import at a 25% tar-

China, imported 50% more cotton yarn from India this March. During the month, the year on year increase was 54% in US$ terms. China was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value declining 29% over the year. Egypt and Portugal were the other major importers of cotton yarn, with former recording 8% increase and latter falling 19%. Eight countries did not import any cotton yarn from India this March as they had imported yarn worth US$0.85 million in March 2018. However, they were replaced by 11 other countries which imported yarn worth US$0.52 million.

Nepal, Iran, Malaysia, Czech Republic, Thailand and Malaysia were among top fastest importers of cotton yarn in March while Algeria, Greece, Netherlands, Bahrain and Belgium significantly reduced their imports compared to last year.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports rose sharply by 56% in March, comprising 5.5 million kg of polyester yarn, 3.2 million kg of viscose yarn and 2.2 million kg of acrylic yarn.

Polyester yarn exports jumped 18% in US$ term while viscose yarn exports value rose 66% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports more than doubled during the month.

Polyester spun yarns worth US$13 million were exported to 55 countries at average unit price of US$2.41 a kg, up US cents 10 compared to last month and almost flat from last year. Belgium emerged as the largest importer of poly-ester yarn, followed by Turkey and Morocco.

iff, and the future buying in volumes will depend on how quickly favorable trade deal is finalized.

Cotton yarn export rises 6% in March, China leads

April 2019

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Viscose yarn worth US$10 million or INR70 crore was exported in March at an average price of US$3.10 per kg.

Iran was the top importer worth US$2.7 million, followed

by Turkey and Bangladesh. Belgium was the fourth largest im-porter of viscose yarn during the month.

Blended spun yarns worth US$54 million were exported

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YARN REPORT in March, up 9% YoY. During the month, 10.9 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$28 million while 5.7 million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$28 million.

Egypt, Bangladesh and USA, were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest im-

porter of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Brazil.

Shipment of all kinds of filament yarns totaled 68 million kg (down 6%. YoY), valued at US$112 million (down 11%.

YoY)

GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND IN MARCH Cotton In India, spot prices were up INR1,700-3,200 per candy across varieties in March, with benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6 rising INR2,300 to INR44,000 per candy. The Cotton Corporation of India commenced the sale of cotton procured by it in the current marketing season under the government’s Minimum Support Price procurement programme. It sold around 10,000 bales at a price of INR 47,000 per candy through e-auctions in Maharashtra and Telangana. It believes that there is no need to intervene now and since farmers are receiving good prices from traders. Since early March, cotton prices have strengthened by INR3,000 a candy. Nearly 70% of cotton has arrived in the market until now, and with the peak period coming to a close, the season is likely to stretch for another couple of months. According to CCI, about 235 lakh bales cotton has arrived in the market until mid-March 15 and it has procured around 11.60 lakh bales, nearly four times the volume collected in the same period previous year. Meanwhile, textile and apparel industry fear that rising cotton prices will hit margins due to their inability to pass on the high production cost on to buyers due to seasonal demand weakness.

Cotton Futures gained despite selling pressure that had developed prior to the release of the USDA reports. Although there was a correction and selling seemed to be

24

mostly long liquidation from speculators and some industry. The selling came despite a strong weekly export sales report released by USDA. The planting intentions report may not show much as the bulk of the bad weather in planting areas has been taken into account earlier. Many participants were awaiting the resolution of the US-China trade dispute, and the US government indicated that a deal will be more difficult to achieve by month-end. Now the market anticipates that a deal is done in April. Both parties were negotiating the final points. In US, weather continues to feature a lot of rain in the south, and fieldwork and initial planting in far southern areas is mostly delayed. With drier weather forecast for next week, there were hopes that at least some initial fieldwork is completed.

Global spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index, gained US cents 4.45 to end March at US cents 85.30 per pound, while in Pakistan the KCA spot rate flat through the month at PakRs8,760 per maund ex-Karachi.

Cotton Yarn

Cotton yarn markets in China moved flat to up, and deals were mainly concluded for 32s and 40s combed yarn.

Producers offered for 40s and 20s combed were down on the month while offers for 21s and 32s were slightly reduced to push out volumes. However, most produc-

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April 2019

YARN REPORT ers offered discounts during discussion of firm deals. In Jiangsu, 32s cotton yarn prices averaged US$3.43 a kg while 40s were at US$3.58 a kg, both up US cents 3 on the month. In India, rising cotton prices pushed yarn prices up while stronger currency made export a bit difficult. 30s carded cotton yarn for knitting were at US$3.25 a kg, up US cents 14 while export offers were up US cents 11 at US$3.00 a kg.

Polyester chain pricing Polyester filament yarn prices were stable in China, but some producers cut discounts as buying activities improved later in the week, especially for POYs. In Shengze, producers maintained stable prices while selling indications were slightly lower than offers for FDYs, DTYs and POYs. In Zhejiang, high crude oil and firmer PTA futures, PFY offers were stable, but some discounts taken back, as downstream mills increased their purchasing volumes.

In Pakistan, offers for both local and imported goods were raised as the currency weakened against the US$.

Demand was still bearish at the moment but is expected to look up in coming weeks. Thus, outlook appear to be better now and cost levels receding slowly. In India, POYs offers remained unchanged this week given the gentle trading atmosphere and most deals focused on multi-end specs. Downstream mills maintained stable run rates, but fabric sales were modest.

Polyester staple fibre prices remained unchanged across China, India and Pakistan this week. In China, polyester fibre markets were on a weak note, dragged by softening feedstock. Some suppliers cut down high-end offers or provided more discounts. Downstream spinning mills were inactive to purchase. Export offers also remained unchanged as lukewarm demand was neutralised by low inventory. Trades were, however, limited as buying ap-

petite was lukewarm near the end of March, and there was uncertainty over the impact of VAT reduction from 1 April. In Pakistan, polyester fibre market showed moderate performance and producers maintained stable operation amid ample supply. In India, polyester fibre makers did not change their offers in the last week of the month, as cost support was still strong amid sluggish demand.

Going ahead, given the range-bound feedstock, ample supply and flat demand, polyester fibre markets are expected to be remain in narrow fluctuation.

In China, offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF averaged US$1.301.32 a kg almost flat from February. In Pakistan, PSF producers’ offers were unchanged for March at US$1.37-1.39 a kg. In India, PSF offers for were up US cents 4 at US$1.50 a kg.

NITIN MADKAIKAR

Textile Beacon

TEXTILE CHEMICALS MARKET: SNAPSHOT In the textile manufacturing processes, textile chemicals play an important role at each processing stage, starting from pre-treatment to finishing of textiles. Textile chemicals improve and optimize the textile manufacturing processes for final specific function, texture, and appearance.

Rising Demand for Home Furnishings and High Number of Home Textile Manufacturers in Asia Pacific Textile chemicals are significantly used in home furnishings in the building & construction industry. Rise in expenditure on home furnishings is anticipated to propel the textile chemicals market during the forecast period.

Demand for home furnishings is rising in Asia Pacific owing to a rapidly increasing middle class and a booming housing market. Moreover, fashion sensitivity toward household furnishing has improved in countries in the re-

April 2019

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gion. Home fashion has emerged as a separate segment in the consumer goods sector since consumer awareness about high quality living has increased. Therefore, in order to cater to a rise in demand, the number of retailers selling home textiles is also increasing. Major players such as IKEA and H&M are also focusing on the expansion of their businesses in Asia Pacific. Thus, these trends are expected to boost demand for home textiles, which, in turn, is anticipated to drive the textile chemicals market during the next few years.

Rising Demand for Technical Textiles Furthermore, demand for technical textiles is also rising. Technical textiles are high-performance textiles used due to their superior properties and functionality

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MARKET REPORT

as compared to conventional textiles. They can be utilized in several end-user industries such as automotive, environmental protection, sports equipment and sportswear, construction, packaging, health care, agriculture, and clothing. Rise in demand for technical textiles can be ascribed to favorable government policies and initiatives boosting infrastructure spending, chemical manufacturing, etc. Hence, rise in demand for technical textile is expected to boost the textile chemicals market as these chemicals impart high strength and versatility to technical textiles, making them ideal for application in their respective end-user industries.

Stringent Environmental Regulations Likely to Hamper Textile Chemicals Market Textile chemicals contain several substances that may pose risks to the environment and human health. Both people and the environment are exposed to these chemicals in and around cotton plantations and textile factories. The European Union implemented the Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control (IPPC) directive from January 2008, along with Emissions Trading System (ETS) and regulation on registration, evaluation, authorization, and restriction of chemicals. This has significantly reduced the demand for textile chemicals in Europe. Various countries such as the Netherlands and Germany have banned some textile chemicals that pose a threat to the environment and human health. Thus, rise in environmental concerns and implementation of stringent environmental regulations, especially in the European Union, are anticipated to hamper the textile chemicals market in the near future.

Moderately Consolidated Textile Chemicals Industry Expanding through Frequent Acquisitions & Mergers

Key players are focusing on mergers and acquisitions of regional and global players in order to gain a substantial share of the global and regional textile chemicals market. In 2015, Archroma acquired BASF’s global textile chemical business. The acquisition is expected to strengthen Archroma’s position as the leading supplier of chemicals and dyes across the globe. Recently in 2017, Archroma acquired 75% share of Germanybased M. Dohmen GmbH, which is engaged in the production of textile dyes and chemicals for the automotive, carpet, and apparel industries.

Finishing Agents Expected to be the Rapidly Expanding Segment The finishing agents segment is estimated to expand at a fast pace during the forecast period due to favorable performance characteristics of finishing agents. They can provide a specific function or particular appearance such as greenhouse fabrics that reflect the sun, flameproof furniture fabrics, durable airbags for vehicles, waterproof fabrics, and many others.

Asia Pacific Dominated the Market in 2017 Asia Pacific constituted a key share of the global textile chemicals market in terms of consumption as the region is a major textile manufacturer globally. China and India accounted for more than 70% share of the textile chemicals market in Asia Pacific. Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Indonesia are also leading countries of the markets for textile chemicals as these countries were prominent exporters of the product in 2016 and 2017.

Top Three Players Account for Nearly 30% Share of the Global Textile Chemicals Market In the global textile chemicals market, the top three players accounted for nearly 30% share of the market in 2017.

Key players in the textile chemicals market include Covestro AG, Lonsen Inc., Archroma, Huntsman Corporation, DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd, Tata Chemicals Ltd., Fibro Chem LLC, OMNOVA Solutions Ins., and Solvay S.A. Archroma held major share of the textile chemicals market in 2017.

Lonsen Inc. and Huntsman Corporation also accounted for key share in 2017.

by Transparency Market Research

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April 2019

MARKET REPORT CMAI Q3 Apparel Index: At 1.86 points it grows over last quarter, small brands fair better CMAI Q3 Apparel Index: At 1.86 points it grows over last quarter, small brands fair better CMAI’s Apparel Index for Q3 (Oct-Dec FY 2018-19) reveals growth rate was better than previous quarter but still lower than expectation. In fact, Giant brands at 6.00 points report a dip in growth, compared to Q2, when Giant brands reported an impressive growth of 8.36. However, all other brand groups have shown improvement over last quarter.

rameter for determining Apparel Index, this quarter then overall Index would have reflected a growth of 0.88, which is much higher than previous quarter’s -1.80 points.

Inventory Holding grows and Sales Turnover, Investment increase

Mid and Small Brands do better CMAl’s Q3 Apparel Index recorded a growth of 1.86 points, which is 1.36 times higher than the Index for Small brands (turnovers of Rs 10 to 25 crores) at 1.37points.

Mid brands (turnover of Rs 25-100 crores), growth is 3.32 points, almost 1.78 times that of overall Index; at 6 points Giant brands’ growth is 3.22 times that of overall Index.

Like all previous quarters Giant brands grew the most in this quarter as well. However, even though Giant brand’s rate of growth is much higher than others but it is not as high as last quarter. At 1.86 points, overall Q3 Index is higher than previous quarter’s (Q2 July-Sept FY2018-19) 0.18. In fact, Q3 index is close to Q1 index which was 1.87 points.

Cumulative Sales Turnover in Q3 (0.88) is an improvement over Q2 (-0.72) but still much lesser than Q1(1.88). Around 48 per cent brands reported an increase in Sales Turnover this quarter. “Sales Turnover has grown because the season was festive and response was good. The market is also growing and demand has grown. We are preferred by customer because of our availability and reach. This has helped us in increasing our sales turnover,” explains Mayank Jain, General Manager, Monte Carlo.

Almost 26 per cent brands reported a loss in Sales Turnover. Incidentally, all groups including Large and Giant brands, this time reported sales losses. Interestingly, the maximum drop in sales was reported by Giant brands. As Paresh Dedhia, Owner of Dare Jeans says, “Decrease in Sales Turnover was due to a slowdown in the market after Diwali. Demand was low, and it affected sales.”

Big brands together have grown at 3.52 points, individually only Mid brands have shown some buoyancy as Large and Giant brands grew less than previous quarter.

Much like previous quarters, the biggest brand group, Giant brands are still leading, outgrowing any recessionary trends. However, the gap this quarter is not as huge. And even though Small brands have done much better at 1.37 points compared to last quarter’s -1.71 points, still they have not been able to manage even a moderate growth.

In the past two years, they have not been able to control their business operations in a healthy manner. Overall growth Index is being pulled down by small players.

If Sales Turnover was to be considered as the only pa-

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Sell Through on the other hand recorded an Index growth of .96 this quarter, showing stress on fresh good sales.

The figure is lower than Q2’s 1.14, this despite the fact that EOSS falls in Q2. Maximum growth in Sell Through was reported by Giant brands at 1.7, much lower than 3.2 points in the previous quarter followed by 1.3 points for Mid brands. Large brands however, clocked in a negative value of -0.6, indicating a drop in Sell Through, this also explains their lesser Index growth compared to Mid and Giant brand’s. “Decrease in Sell Through is more related to online channels. Sales offline has gone down and this has impacted our sell through,” says Radesh Kagzi, President, 109°F. And Manu Chawla, Proprietor, Taiga Kids explains, “Sell Through increased as cost realization is less.

We were not able to make great profits. Raw materials

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MARKET REPORT have become costlier but we have kept our prices constant. Hence, sell through has increased.”

Inventory Holding was 1.6 points which is lower than 2.1 points in Q2. Almost 58 per cent respondents across brands said their Inventory Holding moved north this quarter, indeed a big number and they were responsible for pulling down overall apparel index value. Increase in Inventory Holding impacts overall index negatively. Higher Inventory Holding indicates more stocks in warehouses or shop shelves. Maximum increase in Inventory Holding was among Large brands while Giant brands showed no change in Inventory Holding. “Inventory holding has not increased as with our replenishment model, we were able to increase production so inventory holding moved on,” points out Mohmaya, CEO, Celio. Chawla goes on to say, “Goods are manufactured based on orders, hence, we had no excess material. The team takes good care in maintaining it.”

While 33 per cent (same as previous quarter) reported an increase of 1-20 per cent, 21 per cent reported an increase of 21-40 per cent, 4 per cent said their Inventory Holding went up 41 per cent or more. “We are cutting down lead time for deliveries; smaller run in manufacturing. This has helped us decrease inventory holding,” opines Lubeina, Partner, Mustang.

Overall nearly 81 per cent respondents reported a rise in Investments which is lower than 86 per cent in previous quarter. High investments in last two quarters indicate most brands had to invest to manage albeit small growth which means growth is not coming easily. As Paresh Dedhia, Owner of Dare Jeans outlines, “There is a stretch on

payments and cash flow is less in the market. Hence, payments are pending and extra money is poured in to balance it.”

Mixed outlook for next quarter Around 52 per cent brands say the outlook for next quarter is ‘Average’, while 40 per cent believe it will be ‘Good’.

Only 4 per cent feel the quarter will be ‘Excellent’. However, another 4 per cent believe it will be ‘Below Average’. Hence the outlook recorded in quarter is ‘Average to Good’.

Generally, in Q4 of the fiscal, there is heavy EOSS in January and a good marriage season between January to March. But this quarter also marks the end of financial year FY 2018-19, forcing industry to catch up with the projections and targets.

CMAl’s Apparel Index CMAl’s Apparel Index aims to set a benchmark for the entire domestic apparel industry and helps brands in taking informed business decisions. For investors, industry players, stakeholders and policymakers the index is a useful tool offering concrete and credible information, and is an excellent source for assessing the performance of the industry. The Index is analysed on assessing the performance on four parameters: Sales Turnover, Sell Through (percentage of fresh stocks sold), number of days of Inventory Holding and Investments (signifying future confidence) in brand development and brand building.

The Apparel Index research is conducted by DFU Publications.

NEWS Ietnam’s garment sector eyes $60 bn from exports by 2025.

Vietnam’s textile and garment industry is optimistic about earning $60 billion from exports by 2025, thanks to free trade agreements (FTAs) and a focus on environmentfriendly manufacturing, The sector earned $36 billion in exports last year, up 16 per cent year-on-year, making the country one of the world’s three biggest exporters of textiles and apparel. According to Vu Duc Giang, chairman of the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), the association this year has set an export target of $40 billion, up 11 per cent year on year. Speaking at the 2019 Global Textile and Apparel Supply Chain Conference held recently in Ho Chi Minh City, Giang said the industry is expected to enjoy a trade surplus of $20 billion and employ 2.85 million workers.

Many enterprises have already received orders for the first six months of 2019 and even for the entire year, Vietnamese media reports quoted Giang as saying. The industry is also expecting more orders to shift from China to

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Vietnam due to the ongoing US-China trade war. Vietnam is signatory to 16 FTAs. Ten out of 12 signed agreements have been enforced, including the ASEAN Trade in Goods Agreement, the ASEAN-China FTA and the ASEAN-Korea FTA, while the two remaining, the CPTPP and the ASEANHong Kong FTA, have not yet come into force. The FTAs that Vietnam has signed all have environmental barriers with higher green standards, which require enterprises to improve not only product quality but also production processes. If enterprises fail to do this, they will face a risk of having orders stopped or rejected, especially orders from major international garment brands. VITAS set up an environment committee three years ago and has participated in an action programme for the Green the Textile and Apparel Industry group. In addition, last year VITAS and the World Wide Fund (WWF) for Nature launched a project on green textile industry. The project aims to encourage players in the domestic textile sector to promote better river basin governance, water quality improvement and sustainable energy use. www.textilevaluechain.com

April 2019

SURAT REPORT

Don’t stock high-priced yarn : A message spread by weavers The weavers of the city are spreading messages in their group not to stock costly yarn. The spinners has increased the prices of POY, FDY and texurised yarn upto Rs 10/Kg. in last fortnight. There is no noteable demand of yarn in the market since a month. Only to clear their inventories, the yarn spinners are rising the prices by creating a price cartel. The weavers are advised not to stock high-priced yarn to omit huge losses.

During April, the spinners had increased yarn prices by almost Rs 10 per kilogram in FDY and in other categories, giving a tough time to the power loom weavers. In their messages, they allege that the yarn spinners have formed a cartel and are increasing yarn prices. They alleged that front and second line spinners have gone on a spree of increasing yarn prices, which is main raw material for the power loom weavers. The increasing cost of yarn is bringing down net profit margins.

The payment cycle is not clear and it had become difficult for small weaver to purchase yarn, the prices of which are up by 10 to 15 per cent in the past few days. The GST on yarn has been reduced from 18 per cent to 12 per cent.

Instead of passing on the benefit of rate reduction to the weavers, the spinners are increasing yarn prices. The yarn spinners are arbitrarily increasing the prices and small unit owner can not purchase yarn at such exorbitant prices. They are requesting weavers to purchase yarn as per their equirement.

Production loss & Short Supply : Grey fabrics prices soar up to Rs 4/mtr The prices of synthetic raw grey fabrics has increased in the local market during last month period. Due to less production, the supply of fabrics are short and this has lead to hike in prices upto Rs 4/mtrs.

The production of grey fabrics in the power loom units are down by 30 to 40 per cent, because of worker shortage. As thousands of migrant workers head home for festival of Holi, the shortage of workers in textile industry becomes a major worry. The industry sourses said, more than two lakh workers have gone on leave for Holi and most of them return only after voting. Due to short supply, the prices of grey fabrics has increased upto 20% in the local markets. The rate of 60 gm shiffon, dani, renial, 60 gm plain fabrics are raised by Rs 3.5 to 4 per meter.

The traders are not able to stock grey, as they are not receving good prices for their end finished fabrics. They have their clientele accros the country, but buyers are not ready to buy finished fabrics at high rates. If the price of

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raw grey fabrics is increased, the price of end product will also witness an increase, but buyers are not ready to listen their logic. They want products at less prices and they are suffering.

FOGWA opposes 18% interest on accumulated ITC The Federation of Gujarat Weavers’ Welfare Association (FOGWA) has strongly opposed the demand of 18% interest on accumulated ITC by GST department. If government will not withdraw this circular, the Association will challenge interest demand in Gujarat high court.

More than 40 thousands Power loom weavers of the city are demanding accumulated ITC to the tune of Rs600 crore since long. After several representation when GST department has not resolve the issue, the weavers had filed a PIL in high court for claiming ITC refund. Recently, the department has issued a circular for demand of 18% interest on accumulated ITC. The weavers Association are up in arms against this circular.

The weaving societies had organized series of meetings to spread awareness on anti-industry decision taken by the GST department. The Power Loom owners arguing that this circular is indicating that a weaver has to give 18% interest on their own accumulated ITC. If you want five per cent ITC credit then you are bound to pay 18% tax.

The demand of 18% interest on ITC is illogical. The GST department implemented 18% interest on ITC so that power loom weavers willingly give up the credit and that the government won’t have to deposit the huge amount into the accounts of the unit owners.

New Dye Sublimation Textile Printers launched by Orange Group Surat based digital textile printing brand Orange group has launched New Dye Sublimation Textile Printers. The company has launched new MS JP1 and MS JP2 series New Dye Sublimation Printers in textile machinery exhibition GARFEB-2019 recently organised in the city. Orange group MD Mr. Ayush Rathi said, the company is leading in digital textile printing sector and has sold more than 125 MS JP7 digital textile printing machines in india. The group has it’s operations in Surat, Delhi and Mumbai and with trained engineers and software support specialist, it is providing best after sales services. In the year 2019, the group has launched it’s own brand COLORIX with Highspeed Sublimation printer SUB PRO-1. The need of digital textile machines are increasing and now the group has focused on Sublimation printing segment.

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE

LIFE AFTERLIFE, AN ANATOMY OF THE GROWING FLUSHABLE WIPE DILEMMA Wet wipes have become an irreplaceable part of our everyday life, combining convenience with hygiene. Performance has long been a vital prerequisite in the purchase of wet wipes, however since they are made for a single use, we should be asking how to correctly dispose of them.

Unfortunately, consumers quickly face problems on this matter. Unless the packaging explicitly states disposal instructions, it is difficult for users to take the right action.

Making it even more challenging for consumers is that manufacturers are not yet obliged to list raw materials on packaging. A recent Lenzing online survey conducted via Research Now SSI reveals that the majority of nearly 4,000 consumers assume wet wipes are made of cellulose materials. However, according to a recent Smithers Pira report, almost half of the raw materials in wipes are plastic-based.

As a result of this misunderstanding, consumers often flush of these “paper-like” wipes down the toilet. When non-flushable wipes bind with fat, food and other waste, they clog sewage and water treatment systems. For instance, in London, a fatberg composed of waste - including wet wipes and hygiene products - weighing as heavy as 11 double-decker buses was found in a section of London’s sewage network in September 2017. This shocking news aroused the debate of how can manufacturers ensure correct disposal of their waste and also how can consumers safeguard themselves?

priate way.

In addition, nonwoven industry bodies INDA and EDANA have designed guidelines for assessing the flushability of disposable nonwoven wipes. This guidance requires nonflushable wipes to be prominently labeled with a “Do Not Flush” symbol on the packaging. Consumers need to be aware of the symbol both at the point of purchase and each time they remove a wipe from its dispenser package.

According to EDANA, pilot programs have demonstrated that focused consumer awareness campaigns can reduce the improper flushing of baby wipes by 50%. Awareness campaigns, however, should not be limited to the consumer. It is essential that the nonwovens industry up to brands and retailers acknowledges the severe impact of fiber materials on the end-of-life properties of wipes and their disposal options respectively. Product innovation, technology advancement, transparency and open dialogue are key to promote a more sustainable consumer lifestyle and industry ecosystem.

Product labeling and industry-wide education programs are essential With the ambition to reduce marine litter, the European Commission focuses on single-use plastics. The proposal includes clear and standardized labeling schemes which shall enable consumers to dispose of wipes in an appro-

JÜRGEN EIZINGER

Vice President Global Business Management Nonwovens Lenzing AG

“ Without tradition, art is a flock of sheep without a shepherd. “

Without innovation, it is a corpse.

-Winston Churchill 30

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April 2019

EVENT UPDATE

“ITAMMA’S LEGACY OF 75 YEARS CONTINUE WITH THE NEXT GENERATION ” Celebrated with a historical milestone event on 17th January’2019 at ITC Grand Maratha, Mumbai.

The Indian Textile Accessories and Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (ITAMMA) proudly declared its milestone of successfully completing 75 years of providing service to the Indian Textile Industry in one of its historic event on the 31 of January, 2018. This milestone was celebrated by paying a tribute to Mr. B. K Mehta who was one of the most hardworking and inspiring Past-Presidents of the Association. Mr. B. K. Mehta’s contribution was commemorated by releasing a special documentary film “Balbhai” based on his life and work.

The year subsequent to the announcement made, witnessed a lot of growth in the Association. The aim was to achieve better results in the future for which several training programs were introduced for the members of the association. The members were essentially trained for technological up gradation, operational excellence, and sustainable manufacturing among others.

The Association takes pride in recognizing the work of its founder fathers and past members such as Mr. Bhogilal H. Patel, and others the generous devotees for providing ITAMMA with its own premises, Mr. B.K. Mehta, founder of “B. K. Mehta Endowment Fund,” Mr. J. G. Roy, founder of “J. G. Roy Endowment Fund” and another noteworthy member Ms Hansaben Mehta, President of NASEOH who has financially strengthened the B. K. Mehta Endowment Fund.

Mr. Bhogilal H. Patel, and other members the generous devotees who have provided ITAMMA with its own premises. Mr. B.K. Mehta, a Visionary, Trustee and Past President of ITAMMA, founder of “B. K. Mehta Endowment Fund” has encouraged the Excellence for Technology and Innovations of ITAMMA Members. While Mr. J. G. Roy, Trustee and Past President of ITAMMA founder of “J. G. Roy Endowment Fund” encouraging the Export Excellence of ITAMMA members.

ber of Commerce & industry, Ahmedabad as the Guest of Honour and were followed by a “Shyam–E- Gazal Nite.”

[Lamp lighting by the Chief Guest Shri Kamal Singh, Director, MSME DEVELOPMENT INSTITUTE,]

Those at Coimbatore were organized at Hotel Residency Towers, inviting Dr. K. V. Srinivasan MD, Premier Mills Pvt Ltd, Coimbatore as the Chief Guest and Mr. V. Lakshminarayanasamy, President, The Indian Chamber of Commerce, Coimbatore as the Guest of Honour and which was followed by a “Musical Evening.”

The dignitaries on the dais during the Platinum Jubilee celebration at Coimbatore.

Between the two events, the main event was organised on at ITC Grand Maratha Hotel, Mumbai of the 17th of January. This event was graciously honoured by the presence of Mr T. C. A. Ranganathan, Retired Chairman EXIM Bank and Mr Ninad Karpe, in-coming Chairman Western Region, CII.

Ms Hansaben Mehta, President- NASEOH has further continued the role of the generous devotees by recently strengthening financially the “B. K. Mehta Endowment Fund.”

The Committee decided to organize celebrations at Ahmedabad on 12th Jan’2019, at Mumbai on 17th Jan’2019 and Coimbatore on 25th Jan’2019.

The celebrations at Ahmedabad were organized at Rajuwada Restaurant inviting Mr. Kamal Singh, Director, MSME Development Institute, Ahmedabad as the Chief Guest while Dr. Jaimin R. Vasa, Sr. Vice-President, Gujarat Cham-

April 2019

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[Felicitation of Past-Presidents of ITAMMA during Platinum Jubilee Year 2018-19]

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EVENT UPDATE In the Pre-Event Session all the Past Presidents of ITAMMA were felicitated with a Platinum Jubilee Memento and were assembled for a Group Photo.

President- NASEOH, the generous devotees.

India ITME Society played a very important role in joining hands to make this function a memorable one by inviting a Delegation from Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Kenya, Nepal and Ethiopia.

The event was started by a hearty welcome speech delivered by Kaizar Z. Mahuwala, President, and ITAMMA. While mentioning about its foundation the President highlighted the changing role of the Association. Mentioning how it is still evolving the Mr. Mahuwala said, “The present leaders do not fight for a revolution but heralds its members towards a technological evolution. The association is vigilant keeping up with the new needs experiences and prudently steps in the new era”. Various projects in furtherance of achieving this goal of Digitalisation that had been undertaken by the Association such as the signing of MOU with 26 Research Associations and Institutions in India and with 6 International Industrial Associations as well. Concluding his speech with gratitude to ITMA Society, Machani Group, Indocount Industries and ITAMMA Managing Committee for making the event happen the President referred to the Association’s vision of, “Towards Making Indian Textile Industry A World Leader”.

The speech was followed by the launch of the “Commemorative-film” “Commemorative-film,” highlighted “ITAMMA-Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow” (giving the insight on the contribution of ITAMMA as ‘One Voice’ to the Indian Textile Engineering Industry during its journey of 75 years and it’s Road Map for achieving its Vision)

Launching of Commemorative Film

The event was also graced by the felicitations of Mr. Narendra L. Shah and Mr. R. Anand with ‘Life Time Achievement Awards.’

It was followed by the release of the “Coffee Table Book” (which covered literature of Origins of Textiles, Kadhi and Handloom, embedded with various historical contributions to the Handloom Industry) and the Platinum Jubilee Souvenir(with a special emphasize on “Next Generation Manufacturing”) with the hands of Ms. Hansaben Mehta,

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Felicitation of Mr. R. Anand

This was followed by the Speech by the Guest of Honour Mr Ninad Karpe, where he utilised his time by showing a PowerPoint Presentation which with various real-life instances he showcased how important technological advancement is. One such example was of a taxi driver who had posted a video of himself on YouTube along with his contact details by using no extra gadget other than his smart phone. The taxi wala is now flooded with orders from across the globe and is doing extremely good. He also stated the reason for China’s growth as self-dependency. China’s extensive use of digital medium and how it reduced the pressure on humans.

Release of Souvenir by the hands of Mrs. Hansaben Mehta, President – NASEOH]

Thereafter the Chief Guest Mr. T. C. S. Ranganathan, Retired Chairman, EXIM Bank delivered the Chief Guest Address. Thereafter the Chief Guest Mr. T. C. S. Ranganathan, Retired Chairman, EXIM Bank delivered the Chief Guest Address.

While mentioning the importance of the milestone he emphasised on the other reasons that they have to celebrate.

While giving statistics of various countries he highlighted the fact that in nowhere is there such a high dominance

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April 2019

EVENT UPDATE of one sector in manufacturing as the textile industry in India which accounts for almost half of the share. The textile industry is active in exporting the manufactured goods too.

Mr. Ranganathan also stressed the importance of working in groups and developing in cohorts instead of individualistic progress. The fact that every sector sees something differently should be taken advantage of and every such sector should work simultaneously. The Chief Guest ended his speech with a positive note saying that India is a great alternative for other countries to depend upon.

To beat the other countries in this race the only thing one needs to inculcate is the habit of working together as a team.

The function was concluded with the vote of thanks by Mr Jugal Kishore Pansari, Vice-President, ITAMMA where he mentioned that Today is the day when we remember our illustrious, visionary and generous founders and elders who have laid a solid foundation for the association with their dedication, vision and generous endowments.

It is a result of their leadership and blessings that ITAMMA has today being recognized as the largest and the oldest textile engineering association in the world.

Apart from felicitating and appreciating the member organizations efforts, it becomes our moral duty not only to sustain these assets but also to accelerate them by utilizing all means of smart manufacturing technologies as available today in this competitive & innovative world.

And I am confident that ITAMMA’s Youth Wing will bring this vision true when we have the centenary function celebration 25 years from now.

Felicitation of Jury Mr. R. T. Doshi, Senior partner of M/s PC Ghadiali & Co LLP.Mumbai

JAMBOREE FASHION SHOW 2019 The Department of Textile and Fashion Technology, College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan celebrates 40+ years of achievements this academic year. This important milestone was commemorated in the Annual Department Fest “Jamboree 2019” as a two day celebration on the 15th and 16th March 2019. This annual student-led activity was themed “Trend Sustain” this year.

Dignitaries with Jury

This event was made even more special by the presence of the Founder Head of the Department and Former Principal Ms. Noemia D’Souza, who graced the occasion as the Chief Guest.

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The two day extravaganza began with the National Conference on “Recent Developments in Sustainable Textiles Clothing and Coloration” on the 15th of March and culminated with the Annual Fashion Show on the 16th of March.

The Annual Fashion Show was a grand occasion where the students of the department modeled their self-designed and self- stitched garments. The show was also choreographed by them. The presence of International Indian Designer, Nivedita Saboo and a renowned panel of jury of Ms. Geeta Castelino, Fashion Consultant, Mr. Chatur Singh Khalsa, Founder Zen Asia Foundation, Ms. Mamta Joshi, Fashion Stylist and Founder Orange Tree, and renowned designers/ stylists, Ms. Neha Nagpal and Ms. Aditi Kapoor Khanna made this a very memorable event. Faculty from different fashion institutes and founders of various NGOs lent supported the event. Dr. Geeta Ibrahim, Principal College of Home Science and Sr. Noella Dias, Administrator College of Home Science were present along with special guests; Sr. Philomena Sequiera, Vice President Nirmala Niketan Institute, Ms. Nina Dias, Director Nirmala Niketan Polytechnic, and other members of the Management.The glamour quotient was added by the presence of Indian pageants winners like Ms. Vaishnavi Kamble, Ms. Rakhi

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EVENT UPDATE Sonar and Ms. Shweta Varpe and famous Vlogger Mr. Ritik Rathod.

old sarees into one-piece garments.

• A collection on ‘Sustainability in the Wedding’, in whichthe beautiful garments made using natural fibres silk and the like were embellished with handicrafts that celebrated Indian craftsmanship.

Juries, Department staff and Dignitaries

There were a total of 12 collections that were presented by the students of the Department. The students of the M.Sc. II presented 6 collections, the M.Sc. I had 2 and the T.Y.B.Sc.studentsshowcased 4 collections.

Collection of the MSc II students • “Reject, Revamp, Repeat”, showcasing the infinite charm of embroidered art with its richness, and exploring the path of traditional skills in contemporary life the collection flaunted embroidery from across the world as a means to renew old garments.

• “The Met Gala”, famously known as the Met Ball, where designers and artists from all over the world showcase their exclusive, extravagant and one of its kind costumes was the inspiration for this collection, in which the students created unique outfits using various forms of embellishment, from waste and old fabrics, metal and electronic waste, in conformity with the theme “Trend Sustain”.

Second Prize: Joint Winners of the Intercollegiate competition ‘Cent Percent’ “Couture Collage” by the Nirmala Niketan Polytechnic students “Sustainability in the Wedding” by the MSc II students of the College of Home Science

Collection of MSc I students • “Kasavus of Kerala for Women’s Wear”, paid tribute to victims and the weavers of the Kerala floods. Their collection of contemporary angarkhas was inspired by the colours of Kathakali a popular South Indian classical dance form.

• The collection of Men’s Pathanis and adaptable coats paired with chudidars, salwars, peshwais as well as with classic jeans. Inspired by the royalty of the Nawabs, regal colours like purple, blue, white and red and fabrics like raw silk, satin & modal, this collection was a blend of Mughal tradition and Indian culture.

Collection of TYBScstudents • “MittiKe Veer”, was a tribute to the soldiers of the Pulwama Attack. The collection was a humble attempt to pay respect to their sacrifice and also appreciate the artisans of Daboo, a traditional printing technique of mud resist block printing, practiced in Rajasthan.

First Prize: Joint Winners of the Intercollegiate competition ‘Cent Percent’ “Deepest Darkest Secret” by students Sophia Polytechnic “LGBTQ Parade” made by TYBSc students of College of Home Science

• “Retaining Traditional Attires” for Men’s Knit wear by using cool and calming colours of the night sky and warm colours of the fire with additions of layers, pleats and a play of symmetry,this collection tried to sustain an Indian touch to their garments in the era of westernization.

•‘Draped Classics’a fashion collection where they added a western touch to Indian classics, gracing new contemporary looks in varied attires by cutting and draping recycled

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• The second collection titled “Gothikat” was a combination of Ikat, a resist dyeing technique and Gothic Art, a dark, bold, sometimes morbid fashion and style of dress.

• “LGBTQ Parade”, the collection took its inspiration from the landmark judgment of the Supreme Court on 6th September 2018 that decriminalized homosexuality by declaring Section 377 of the Indian Penal Code unconstitutional. The students used khadi, self-bleached denim and polyester scraps and embellished the garments by hand painting and hand embroidery in the bold colours that the community identifies with.

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April 2019

EVENT UPDATE • “Underwater Leheriya” based on the fluidity, colours, glory and depth and of underwater flora and fauna, used Leheriya, a beautiful skill intensive Indian traditional method of tie and dye.

Individual students of the department were judged for their garments under various categories, viz. ‘Overall Best Garment’, ‘Best Styled and Silhouette Garment’, ‘Best Women’s Garment’, ‘Best Men’s Garment’, ‘Best Surface Ornamented Garment, ‘Best Draped Garment’, ‘Most Sustainable Garment’, ‘Best Costume Styling’

The award for Overall Best Collections at the intracollegiate level was won by • “LGBTQ Parade” at the Undergraduate TYBSc level • “Sustainability in the Wedding” at the Post Graduate level by MSc II. The above collections were interspersed with the garments stitched by the FYBSc and SYBSc students.

• ‘Desi Runway’ the SYBSc collection of traditional kurtis and contemporary palazzos were a perfect blend of modernity and tradition.

• The next collection was by the young first year students with the theme, ‘Sustainable Little Treads in Kidswear’.

They showed-off their designing and stitching skills with basic cotton floral frocks, and simple shirts and shorts, that were embellished with materials found at home.

Modeled by tiny tots, this collection got the warmest welcome

Intracollegiate competition Winners at Undergraduate Level: TYBSc Collection: LGBTQ

The most interesting part of the event was the Intercollegiate Fashion Competition- “Cent Percent” -A doorway leading towards sustainability. The competition was a challenge to the designer for creating sustainable fashion, by using pre- and post-consumer waste, and creating awareness towards ecological concerns. The Mantra of Sustainability showcased was “Buy Less, Choose Well, Make it Last Long”. There were eight entries from various colleges like Sophia Polytechnic, Nirmala Niketan Polytechnic, SASMIRA, and NIIFD and two entries from the College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan

lease of life to the passively existing saris in wardrobes.

• The collection ‘Couture Collage’ showcased the grunge look. It was an attempt to re-fashion garments and fabrics that have fulfilled their useful lives.

• ‘United In Green’ emphasized the need for turning around a green curve, to embrace handlooms, khadi and natural dyes, fashioning humble weaves and launching sustainable fashion with a touch of urban sensitivity and styling.

• ‘Timeless Classic’ was an amalgamation of Islamic and Jain architecture, in blue and white silk • The ‘Woman of Substance’ collection had Maharani AhalyabaiHolkar, The Maratha Queen of Malwa as the inspiration • ‘The Sacred Place’ was inspired by the Jaami Masjid, one of the most mesmerizing and eye catching mosques.

• ‘Deepest Darkest Secret’, the collection from Sophia Polytechnic was inspired by the negative shades of life of a woman and was embellished with ‘Chatapati Work’ of Lucknow to show the wear and tear in human life.

• ‘Sustainability in the Wedding’ from the College of Home Science showcased beautiful garments that were embellished with handicrafts that celebrated Indian craftsmanship.

• ‘LGBTQ Parade’, from the College of Home Science took its inspiration from the Supreme Court judgement of 6th September 2018 that decriminalized homosexuality by declaring Section 377 of the Indian Penal Code unconstitutional.

The winners of the intercollegiate competition were y First Prize: h “Deepest Darkest Secret” by students Sophia Polytechnic h “LGBTQ Parade”madebyTYBSc students of College of Home Science y Second Prize: h “Couture Collage” by the Nirmala Niketan Polytechnic students h “Sustainability in the Wedding” by the MSc II students of the College of Home Science y Third Prize: h ‘Tie and Dye and Denim’ by students of NIIFD The grand finale was the ‘Jewels of India’, a fashion show acknowledging the contribution of artisans of traditional handcrafted textile products across the length and breadth of India. This was presented by students of the Department.

The entire evening proved to be a wonderful experience and was enjoyed by everyone

• The first entry titled ‘I was a Sari’ aimed at giving a new

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

RETECH Aktiengesellschaft – Switzerland The blue thread moves on its way! For the third time since 2011 in Barcelona, 2015 in Milano und now 2019 again in Barcelona Retech is exhibiting interesting innovations under the motto of the blue thread and thereby remains faithful to its line.

This coming June in Barcelona Retech will show a diverse and interesting range of new products for different applications. In the forefront we shall show intentionally 3 innovations from different areas of activity. However there are further new things to be discovered on Stand B109 in Hall 7: Retech as expert in monitoring your yarn tension to perfection will show in Barcelona a further development of the long proven and successful yarn tension sensor. This yarn tension sensor, which is based on HALL sensor technology, has established itself in the last 20 years as the leading technology for the on-line measurement of yarn tension. The main characteristics such as robustness, insensitivity to external influences, high accuracy, long term stability and user friendly service have led to the Retech yarn tension sensor becoming a ‘must’ in the production of filament yarns. The main range of application is in false-twist texturing production (DTY), but there are other applications such as in extrusion (FDY / BCF), in air jet texturing and in diverse winding processes, where the monitoring of yarn tension is essential for the continuous assurance of yarn quality. At any point technical or commercial boundaries are met, and so it is necessary to offer successful solutions in these technically related areas.

For this reason Retech has developed the proven yarn tension sensor with HALL technology in two directions.

In Barcelona we shall show with considerable pride a version for application in extrusion. A sensor, which is foreseen with additional characteristics, in order to be able to withstand the even greater demands and influences of a spinning process at high speeds (4000 m/min. +) and higher yarn counts (3000 dtex +).

(Bild „Yarn Tension Sensor Extrusion“) On the other hand we shall show a low cost version, which admittedly omits a few features, which are usually necessary and established. With this low cost version we have the possibility to enter also into areas of application and markets, where the price exhibits a central role. Where the absolute measurement stands less in the centre and where certain details can be compensated by means of

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modern technology and software. Especially in the area of OEM business, where the yarn tension sensor is integrated into the central machine control (centre) of the machine builder, there appear to be interesting new opportunities. This new version of the proven HALL sensor principal with the application of the newest and further developed technology is showing already great interest from notable machine manufacturers.

(Bild „Yarn Tension Sensor Optimised“) Retech as expert in drawing your fibres to perfection will present with eager anticipation a new godet generation as their second main innovation in the area of today’s core business of heated godet rolls for the drawing and treatment of all kinds of synthetic yarns. Based on the proven and efficient motor technology by means of permanent synchron magnet technology, which enables a very economic operation, an interesting further development has taken place, which rounds off further the Retech godet roll range.

Retech sets its stall by the permanent synchron magnet motor technology and offers three product ranges. Based on a motor size of 80, godet rolls with diameters 100 – 127 mm are offered. The motor size 90 is concentrated on diameters 150 - 160 mm and the motor size 112 based on diameters 190 – 250 mm. All three ranges cover different godet roll lengths and heating possibilities (1 – 6 zones, STS (non-rotating PT100 temperature sensor) or RTS (rotating temperature sensor) including the necessary measured value transmitter and are consequently designed according to the modular system, which demonstrates interesting economic possibilities for the customer, even with small numbers of units.

Also in the case of smaller godet roll diameters in order to accommodate ever higher demands for speed and temperature, Retech has now developed further its range of motors and equipped it with the well-known features of the larger motor series (112), which comes into play in the case of high end godet rolls. Through this the godet roll range with diameter 160 mm opens up a new performance range, which enables a continuous operation at speeds up to 4500 m/min. and temperatures to 250 °C, whilst of course maintaining the usual quality, precision and long life. As with all godet rolls Retech has avoided the greasing of bearings and inductor cooling by means of the clever cooling and heat dissipation system. An important puzzle solution here is the permanent synchron magnet technology mentioned beforehand. Specifically this draws only sufficient current as the process actually demands and thereby leads to an energy saving and efficient operation.

(Bild „Heated godet new generation“ / „Heated godet

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS small brother“)

some advantages of the new temperature control units:

Besides these new godet roll products further godet rolls will of course be shown in Barcelona. In addition to the already mentioned „standard“ godet rolls (whereby each godet roll is trimmed and optimised for the chosen range of application), godet rolls will also be exhibited for washing and drying processes for high performance fibres.

Even so there are also godet rolls with external drives, which find application in different niche markets (artificial grass, medical applications, horizontal drawing lines, etc.).

- The temperature controller UCR-6 / 6P comes now with an integrated LED display, which enables the operation of the unit as a stand-alone option. This way the user sees the actual status including all important information such as the set and actual temperatures, and on the other hand alarm and error information in clear text.

The third part of the previously mentioned special innovations concerns the original Retech product range. Retech, whose name stands for regulation technology and whose origin springs from temperature regulation, is showing its newly developed temperature control and measured value transmission line. Under the name “Blue-Line”, the next generation of this system will be shown at ITMA Barcelona. This success story began in the middle of the 70’s with the analogue temperature controller RRU, followed by the first digital temperature controllers Microtronic-08, Microtornic-24 in the late 80’s, followed by DTC-24 and CR-03 (the first multizone temperature controller) at the end of the 90’s, up to today’s ETC-24 and CR-7 versions in combination with the UTR-4 with transmission of temperature measured values.

By means of the re-worked „Blue-Line“, the advantages of the individual systems are now combined and enable new interesting areas of application. This is on the one hand for our own regulation and control installation, but also for our OEM customer, who can integrate the individual components easily and securely in their control circuit systems and yet again for small „stand-alone“ applications.

Retech will show as a world premier in Barcelona: - UCR-6 temperature controller for multi-zone godet rolls (1-6 heating zones) - UCR-6P temperature controller for 6 independent heating positions (1 zone STS godet rolls or other heating components) - USC temperature converter (to convert the digital into an analogue signal) - UTR-4A measured value transmitter as a technical and robust further development for the hostile working environment of man-made fibre manufacturing.

With these new products, which cover the needs of our customers in an optimal way, Retech are able to round off their product programme and to react in an optimal way to each enquiry and demand.

(Bild „UCR-6 Temperaturcontroller“/ „UTR-4A_ 100+Stator“ / UTR-4A_Stator“) Now we should very much like to shed more light on

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- The UCR-6P presents a very interesting and cost optimised version for small plants with a small number of control positions. The control per regulator with 6 independent participants can be taken directly at the unit itself and without any bus structure or PLC. - The unit enables a simple configuration in situ by the operator. A significant advantage, also in the case of replacements.

- By means of intelligent technology the temperature controller UCR-6 / 6P is allowed an optimised network loading, at the same time setting a limit to the network loading. The network loading follows uniformly and not stepwise with spikes as with other products, which can lead to problems at the godet roll or the network.

- The heating load is distributed uniformly in the case of multi-zone godet rolls, which leads to a further optimisation of the network loading.

- The synchronous phase control of the output relay (SSR) enables the application of cost-efficient random switching relays.

- By means of a switch, the regulator or the corresponding heater can be turned on or off. The optical input to the regulator enables the operation of several regulators by means of a single switch. In the case of a plant with a number of heaters this reduces significantly the investment in wiring.

These are only the most important advantages, which flow in the new „Blue-Line“ temperature control range.

Unfortunately these are often disregarded in a general judgement. A simple and understandable demonstration of the points mentioned will be presented live at the ITMA in Barcelona, and thereby everyone can be convinced themselves of the considerable benefits.

Besides the 3 highlights mentioned in the range of yarn tension sensors, heated godet rolls and temperature regulation and transmission Retech is showing further innovations and products.

On the one hand there are the proven separator rolls with air bearings in various sizes, the many kinds of heated godet roll mentioned already including godet rolls for cooling and washing, and also large hot plates for draw warping applications, which even enable our national flag to be manufactured . all under the motto «Engineered and Made in Switzerland». We welcome you from the heart to our show stand B109 in Hall 7 during ITMA in Barcelona.

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

The evolution of quality management Preventive quality control takes the next step Uster Technologies offers a unique portfolio of solutions for textile quality control, management and improvement, from fiber to fabric – adding value for each stage of production. Now USTER strengthens that concept even further, enabling textile producers to actually prevent poor quality, rather than just recording it.

This latest advance combines textile know-how and technology with smart software, as the textile industry embraces the digital age through intelligent systems which promise faster, better and more cost-effective manufacturing.

Digital quality management from fiber to fabric USTER has a 70-year history, with a deep understanding of the textile processes and the challenges its customers are facing. Based on this, USTER is committed to continuously strengthening objective quality measurement and automation along the textile value chain. In 2018, this led USTER to enter the field of automated fabric inspection, with the acquisition of Elbit Vision Systems. Another important step was to bring the world-renowned USTER® STATISTICS quality benchmarks into the digital age, developing the USTER® STATISTICS 2018 app for smartphones and mobile devices. A commitment to continuous expansion and development will ensure that customers continue to enjoy growth and profits.

“Digitalization offers many opportunities for evolving and improving our systems and services,” says USTER CEO Thomas Nasiou. “At the same time, the core of our offering will always be Think QualityTM and all our efforts -- whether in hardware, software or services – will aim towards quality measurement and management to maximize the value for our customers.”

Introducing data-based optimization As long ago as 2015, USTER introduced data evaluation to textile quality control, with the USTER® TESTER 6. This allowed users, for the first time, to combine both laboratory

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and in-process data from different production stages to optimize quality control and its management. In 2019, the next logical step is to extend this connected approach to the further production processes, to offer value modules which enable textile producers not only to be informed of quality problems but also prevent and optimize wherever possible. This is another major step in ‘managing a textile mill with quality in mind’.

Launching ITMA 2019

managers and operators.

at

USTER® QUALITY EXPERT, the Quality Management PlatformTM, collects and evaluates information from different production stages, making the entire process more transparent for

The introduction of the Quality Management PlatformTM marks an important evolution for Uster Technologies. It combines collection and smart data analysis from more process steps with the next level of knowledge-based alerts about possible defects and extended prognosis of yarn performance in subsequent processes. Also very new is the possibility for better contamination control and quality-based optimization of the ring spinning process, including the possibility to stop defect production as early as possible.

Alerts are available on a mobile app and important performance indicators are also projected on dashboards – both with the target to trigger early reaction to problems.

Of course, the reporting is also accessible on client terminals across the plant.

The Quality Management PlatformTM will form the centerpiece of the USTER presentation at ITMA 2019. At the same time, the comprehensive portfolio of online, laboratory, fabric inspection products and value-added services is being extended with further innovations.

Reflecting the spirit of continuous innovation, a completely new ITMA booth design will highlight the digitally-connected Uster Technologies offering and showcase developments across the entire portfolio.

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

Saurer at ITMA 2019 – discover how we power creation In Barcelona, Saurer will present a range of new products, demonstrating our drive for continual innovation to our customers and the industry. With our E³ principle, we acknowledge our responsibility to create sustainable machinery – our new products require less energy and fewer resources while featuring optimised ergonomics to enhance user-friendliness. In addition, we are increasingly incorporating intelligent technology to augment the human effort. Our focus is on meeting the needs of investors and operators of spinning mills as they strive to reach their goals. Since the beginning, our innovations have been the driving force behind our customers’ creations – from yarns to garments, tyres and artificial turf. We also understand that we need to address the unique needs of each client, which could range from funding issues to energy concerns. In addition, a number of Saurer business lines are celebrating anniversaries this year, the most long-lived of which, our embroidery business, was founded 150 years ago. To be a part of these festivities and to find out more about our solutions, visit Saurer at Stand B201 in Hall 6.

The innovations that Saurer Spinning Solutions will show at ITMA include new machinery, automation and digitisation technologies as well as quality-determining components and services. Saurer’s solution approach is also integrated into the product portfolio of the segment.

Managing the spinning value chain from finalised package down to fibres gives Saurer a knowledge base that translates into a competitive advantage for our customers. For Saurer, the solution consists of more than just machinery. Automation, digitisation, service, training, consulting and even project financing are integral parts of a smart offering, conceptualised with customers’ topof-mind requirements.

The extension of the value chain from bale to package allows Saurer to have complete control over yarn quality along the entire process. While focusing on deliver-

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ing perfect package quality for each spinning application from one source, we have divided the systems into ring spinning (Zinser System) and open-end spinning (Schlafhorst System). Our Zinser System focuses on flexibility and intelligent linkage in high-speed ring spinning, and features a new modular structure and intelligent RFIDbased material flow. In open-end spinning, the Schlafhorst System embodies versatility with solutions for different yarn structures.

The Saurer Technologies Segment is also presenting an array of innovative products. Our direct cabling machine CableCorder CC5 is already in its fifth generation – this version is even more economical and features a smart spindle concept as well as smart quality control and software solutions. Customers in the carpet yarn sector will need look no further than our new series of CarpetCabler/CarpetTwister – these machines are capable of fulfilling any requirement with ease. We will also be launching the latest generation of the CompactTwister, which has already demonstrated its dominance in the market with sales of over four million spindles.

We are also offering a complete top-down embroidery solution – customers can complete each step of the ennoblement process, from the first drawing of the design to the final stitch on our Epoca 7 machine. Its HeadLine application system, also incorporating a new laser head that can cut virtually any fabric, allows customers to produce limitless designs. Automation features have resulted in a dramatic increase in productivity.

With the launch of a device-monitoring system for all ball bearings, Saurer enters the market for Industrial Internet of Things (IIoT) solutions. The system allows the constant condition monitoring of every single Temco bearing within a plant. Identifying positions with possible defects before serious malfunctions occur enables customers to take a proactive approach. Predictive maintenance based on the real load situation will become a reality.

In our elastomer components business line, we are fulfilling customers’ requests for a ring-spinning cot with a hardness of 68 Shore A, completing the range of Accotex J-series cots from soft to hard with different lifetimes for different applications. The latest air jet-spinning aprons feature a redesigned composition of the inner layer in combination with a newly designed knurled structure, resulting in even gentler yarn treatment.

We look forward to showing you our latest innovations at ITMA 2019. To find out how we power your creations, visit us in Hall 6 at Stand B201

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

Santex Rimar AG is showing with Santacompact RD their well-known felt belt compacting machine for the finishing of high-quality open-width knitted fabrics. This machine, specially designed for knitwear, enables the highest performance and best fabric quality to be achieved with minimum production and maintenance costs. Santacompact RD is a double felt belt compactor in one line with levelling frame at the entry. This unique design of short and direct feed from the levelling frame into the special designed compacting zones ensures an excellent dimensional stability. Santex Rimar AG will show the latest version with special designed felt belt features to ensure the gentle handling of cotton or cotton blended knits and to maximise performance.

Amsler with groundbreaking innovations and solid developments at ITMA 2019, Barcelona The specialized manufacturer of value added yarn systems for spinning frames Amsler Tex informed about its novelties, which it will present at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

The company is known for decades for its Swiss-made, robust and economic manufacturing devices for Sluband Core-yarn. The announced bouquet of ITMA-news encompasses three directions:

important aim of all Amsler’s activities. In this context Amsler promotes an upgrade of the existing STG 4000 control units of its loyal customers to the new STG 5000 system. This is a smart enhancement of the current slub device, which increases efficiency, enhances slub yarn quality and improves costs. The customer receives 12 months warranty on the new components and can use the old items as spare parts for other Amsler devices.

Innovation, Relaunch and Upgrade.

Innovation Wrapper yarn: Wrapper yarn is a novel kind of yarn for new fashion or functional applications (Patents pending). Wrapper yarn consists of a basic yarn in the center, which is wrapped by an additional yarn or filament, and is manufactured in one step on a spinning frame. The applications are broad.

Knitware with wrapper yarn shows an astonishing softness, has little spirality and enjoys low pilling as well as a good dimensional stability.

Inspiration Wrapper yarn

Relaunch Core V

Relaunch Core V Amsler’s Core yarn system is famous for its proven and unbeaten technology. In order to keep its aim to offer «the best core yarn device in the world» Amsler makes a relaunch. The new system Core V simplifies the handling, while keeping and improving the elastan centering performance as well as the rock solid filament monitoring and roving stop function.

Upgrade STG 5000

Upgrade Control Unit STG 4000 to STG 5000 The long-lasting profitable use of Amsler devices is an

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Visit us at ITMA 2019, Hall H6 Booth A210

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

MEERA at ITMA 2019 Innovative Twisting Solutions for Carpet Yarns, Ropes, Twines and Threads Meera Industries Limited is going to exhibit its range of innovative twisting Machines for carpet Yarns, Ropes, Twines and Thread at ITMA 2019 at Barcelona, Spain between 20th - 26th June 2019, Hall No. 6, Stall No. C204. Having a customer centric approach MEERA’s main designing principal has always been Energy optimization, High Productivity and Ease of Use . MEERA is going to Exhibit below Machines at the ITMA 2019 .

Carpet Cabler / Carpet Twister is a heavy-duty direct cabling / Twisting machine with sturdy structure designed to produce premium quality yarns for carpet at most economical cost. Having a Denier Range of 1200-12000, this

the ITMA 2019. TPRS is a One Step Ply and Cable Twisting Machine.

MEERA being pioneer of TPRS technology is proud to Exhibit this machine at the show. TPRS is also known as One Step Twine Twister For Cotton, Polyester Nylon, PP for denier upto 25000. Traditionally Ply and Cabling Process took 3 Steps, through TPRS technology the same Twine can now be made in just in One step. Twisting up to 4 Ply and denier range from 3000-25000, TPRS is available in three different models, TPRS-19, TPRS-25 and TPRS-50.

Over all costing of producing S/Z yarns through TPRS is 40% less compared to traditional methods. Easy to Use, Highly Effcient TPRS has proven to be a boon for Fish Net Yarns, stitch thread, carpet yarn, industrial thread , PP Mouth Closing Thread , Ropes and Twines, Raffa etc Ring Twister, The Third machine at the show For Making Technical Yarns Like Glass, Dyneema, Carbon and Ropes, Cotton Twines, Rafia Twines, Mop Yarns, Artificial Grass, Upto 6 MM etc. Meera’s Ring Twister is a high speed Fully Automatic Twisting Machine With Precise Ring Rail Control, Pneumatic Pressurised Yarn Feeding, Individual Spindle Drive Motor available in Various Ring Size From 140 - 300 MM. MEERA is planning to demonstrate twisting of MOP Yarns, Glass yarns and Raffa during the show.

Twister / Cabler is suitable for all types of BCF (Bulk Continuous Filament) and Textured yarns like PP, Polyester, Nylon. Energy conservation, High Productivity and Ease of Use are the principal in mind when we designed Direct Cabler CK-260. The Machine is loaded with several features which add to high productivity, better Production management through advanced reporting through smart quality control and software solutions CK-260 is highly effcient, economical and easy to operate cabling machine comparable to similar offerings from European markets.

The Company is highly optimistic for its success during

God guard me from those thoughts men think In the mind alone; He that sings a lasting song Thinks in a marrow-bone.

“

“

WILLIAM BUTLER YEATS,

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

BENNINGER ITMA Barcelona 2019 – hall 2, stand B205 Incorporating the TRADITIONAL and the MODERN

the know-how of the original S-roller technology, which is synonymous with an even dyeing result across the entire fabric width.

In this 2019 ITMA year, Benninger is celebrating its 160th anniversary. This anniversary stands primarily for 160 years of commitment to textiles, but also for 160 years of responsibility towards sustainable textile production.

Thanks to consistent innovation and the continuous improvement and further development of our products, processes and services, for the past 160 years the name Benninger has stood for textile finishing plants that are particularly resource-efficient.

At this year’s ITMA Barcelona BENNINGER will be presenting its latest developments: y The Benninger-Küsters CPB dyeing centre for knitwear and woven fabrics - the only salt-free cold dyeing process y The TEMPACTA washing steamer for knitted fabrics with freshwater supply that is controlled by the degree of contamination y The TRIKOFLEX drum washing machine that is available up to a working width of 5400 mm. In addition, a specially developed expander roller for sensitive fabrics will be exhibited. y BENNINGER – Küsters Multipad - the new development for complex impregnation tasks on woven fabrics and knitwear with electronically monitored, automatic lubrication

Benninger TEMPACTA washing steamer

Contamination-dependent washing The TEMPACTA washing steamer has been especially developed for all low-tension washing processes and is mainly used for diffusion washing (fastness washing). The unit has a consistent counterflow water supply. Online measurement of the degree of contamination regulates the necessary amount of fresh water in order to a.) guarantee the lowest possible water and energy consumption and b.) ensure a high reproducibility of the washing result.

Nothing is impossible: Tension-free and crease-free washing of textiles up to 5400mm

Salt-free dyeing of woven fabrics and knitwear Salt-free dyeing without the use of energy is only possible using the cold pad batch (CPB) dyeing process. This process is also becoming increasingly popular in tropical and subtropical regions, which is reason enough for Benninger-Küsters to adapt the CPB systems even more effectively to the climatic conditions. The heart of our CPB system is the BENNINGER KÜSTERS DYPAD, which we will also be presenting again this year at the ITMA Barcelona.

BENNINGER is the only textile machine manufacturer with

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The TRIKOFLEX drum washing compartment has the highest mechanical washing efficiency thanks to the double drum technology and the front and back washing technology. Crease-free fabric transport is guaranteed, even with sensitive fabric. In addition, BENNINGER has developed a cylindrical expanding roller for particularly sensitive textiles for wet and steam applications. The washing compartment is rounded off with the HYDROVAC vacuum-water extraction system. Since each reaction process is followed by a washing process in wet finishing, 70% of the energy consumption is incurred during washing. For this reason, Benninger washing compartments are insulated so that up to 50% of the radiated energy can be saved here.

BENNINGER Küsters MULITPAD - there’s nothing that can’t be impregnated The newly-developed BENNINGER KÜSTERS Multipad is an absolute highlight with regard to flexible impregnation tasks. The unit is equipped with an optional double im-

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS pregnation feature and is suitable both for heavy denim articles and for very light knitwear. One of the special applications is over-dyeing and mercerising of denim. The Multipad is also used for cold bleaching and pre-treatment of knitwear.

and an alarm is sounded in the event of limit value violations. A good example of this is the central bearing lubrication on the BENNINGER KÜSTERS Dyepad: The critical lever bearings of the padder are permanently lubricated, malfunctions are reported and the lubricant is automatically replenished. Another example is online monitoring of the air-conditioned electrical circuit cabinets.

A newly revised maintenance manager provides information about the maintenance status of the system at any time and generates a recommendation as well as a schedule for the next maintenance cycle. Another example of modern process monitoring is the newly-developed online measurement of the degree of contamination of the washing water and the resulting optimisation of water consumption.

Benninger TRIKOFLEX drum washer

IoT - networked and informed at all times The topic of the “internet of things” (IoT) is also becoming increasingly important in the textile machinery industry.

True to the principle “trust is good, control is better”, the important operating parameters of the BENNINGER systems are continuously monitored in a closed control circuit. Deviations are detected and corrected immediately.

Particularly quality-critical parameters are forwarded to those responsible by means of modern IoT technologies

To give our customers an overview of their production facility at all times, we have further developed the established management information system BEN-iDATA. This allows the customer to query all important machine data, the maintenance status and the ecological footprint of the current production batch at any time and from any place.

Last but not least, Benninger has developed an electronic ticket system for service assistance, which transmits diagnostic data at the time of the event to the Teleservice team in our main facility at the customer’s request. This enables us to offer our customers efficient and timely support.

tions is part of China Hi Tech Group Cooperation (CHTC).

Following are the AUTEFA Solutions technologies.

Non-woven’s technology

AUTEFA Solutions represents companies with a long tradition and a history of years of successful participation in the market. Combining the experience of the companies

The nonwovens lines meet customers’ requirements for quality web formation, bonding, active weight regulation, and minimal maintenance requirements. The turnkey nonwoven lines include machines for opening and blending, chute feeds, nonwovens cards, cross lappers, needle looms, hydro entanglement equipment, thermo bonding ovens and dryers. With one of the worldwide biggest Nonwoven Competence Center in Linz, Austria, company offers multiple web forming and bonding technologies in industrial scale to cover all our customer’s requirements for application oriented product optimization. On 2000m² there are, among other machines, 5 needle looms available for trials.

Fiber Logistic Technology AUTEFA, Fehrer, FOR, OCTIR and Strahm the company stands for high quality, durability and performance made in Europe. With two subsidiaries AUTEFA Solutions North America and AUTEFA Solutions Wuxi (China) the company is present all around the globe. Since 2011 AUTEFA Solu-

April 2019

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It offers the entire range from fiber transport to the baler, as well as bale transport and storage of the finally pressed, wrapped and strapped bales in bale warehouses. Highest efficiency of fiber production is only granted by consequent automation of the complete final stage of the fiber line. The AUTEFA Solutions system consists of single mod-

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS ules that can be combined based on the specific project requirements to achieve complete and optimal solutions.

proven lower energy consumption. Higher fabric strength.

Reduced water consumption etc.

Woollen, Worsted and Semi Worsted Technology

Aerodynamic web forming Airlay FUTURA h Six modules – ONE perfect line solution h Airlay FUTURA Concept increases productively and quality by tailor- made technology modules. h FUTURA easy opening systems leads to high efficiency and lower maintenance costs. h Needleloom or Thermobonding oven complete line out of one hand.

The company combines in Biella the two biggest Italian

card manufacturers, OCTIR and F.O.R. AUTEFA Solutions includes companies with a long-standing tradition. With a history of more than 100 years in card production (F.O.R. was established in 1907 and OCTIR was established in 1911) and the successful supply of more than 6000 cards all over the world, Woollen Carding Sets to process fine and extra fine wool, cashmere and silk, for high quality weaving and knitting yarns.

AUTEFA-Service 4.0 h Direct link to customer support h Intuitive access to machines and processes h Intelligent maintenance by component supervision h Monitoring system keeping quality high h Full autefa solutions knowledge accessible on demand h The future of AUTEFA Solutions is focused on growth and the expansion of its worldwide production sites.

Autefa Solutions presenting in ITMA 2019.

Full-line suppliers for nonwovens lines Innovations in main process steps from web-forming, web bonding and web-finishing. Industry 4.0 for entire nonwovens production system.

Energy saving spunlace production Autefa solutions patented V-jet Technology. Upto 30%

“Half the world’s paper passes over fabrics made on our machines…”

Ahead of ITMA 2019 in Barcelona this June, Texo AB, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, reports a surge in demand for its specialised weaving machines for the production of paper machine clothing (PMC).

“Rather surprisingly, given that China is now by far our biggest single market and the paper manufacturing industry has been gradually consolidating in Asia, we currently have new orders from both long-established North American and European customers,” says Texo President

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Anders Svensson. “The current global political tensions in combination with insourcing to Europe and North America have been important factors for these projects and I’m sure the evironmental benefit of significantly reducing transportation played a part too.”

The paper industry Despite the on-going Digital Age, it’s estimated that there are still approximately 7,000 paper machines operating worldwide, the most modern of which can run at approaching 2,000 metres a minute.

These machines are responsible for manufacturing over 400 million tons of paper each year, in thousands of separate grades of paper, paperboard and tissue.

www.textilevaluechain.com

April 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS All paper manufacturing machines require a regular supply of PMC, which as large continuous engineered fabrics, carry the paper stock through each stage of the paper production process. With technologically sophisticated designs, they employ fibres and other polymeric materials in complex structures and each paper machine has an average of ten separate fabrics installed on it.

where the highest quality is critical.

The FSX model is designed for the production of both forming fabrics based on medium-to-coarse yarns as well as press felt base fabrics, while the TMR is an extra heavy high-speed loom developed for both forming and dryer fabrics, as well as industrial fabrics such as filter materials employed in applications such as dewatering in the mining industry.

All of these looms are characterised by advanced features based on Texo’s over 60 years of know-how and constant development, including the company’s proven Pozi Grip rapier insertion system, Disco dobby unit, LoCoMo control system and TDD direct drive.

At ITMA 2019, however, Texo will be showcasing a section of one of its latest models with a more traditional cam drive, for which there is still market demand.

Although the PMC business represents just a small proportion of the total cost of manufacturing paper, it can have a significant impact on the quality of the paper, the efficiency of a machine and machine production rates.

“We introduced the first weaving loom with an electronic drive for this industry over a decade ago and it’s been very successful, but there are still some companies who want to go the traditional way,” Svensson explains. “At ITMA we will be emphasising the fact that we have all alternatives available.”

TMAS companies will have a significant presence at the

Yet due to many years of contraction and consolidation, only a handful of companies are now manufacturing PMC globally – and there are even fewer suppliers of the advanced technology for making them.

“I find it quite staggering to consider that of all the paper that’s in the world today – and just think for a moment how much that actually is – around half of it has passed over fabrics manufactured on our machines,” says Svensson.

Applications Principal products in the PMC segment include forming, pressing and dryer fabrics, all of which convert the initially wet mass of fibres through the paper machine as water is progressively squeezed out of it, ensuring it is held in place and air can be effectively blown through it at the dryer stage, to ensure a regular shape and extremely even surfaces.

PMC products can be up to 140 metres long and in the past have been made in extremely wide widths – the largest weaving loom manufactured by Texo had a working width of 31 metres.

Nowadays, however, due to advanced seaming technology, such extreme widths are not necessary. Nevertheless, Texo’s PMC weaving machines are still generally supplied today in working widths of between five and 20 metres.

Barcelona show, where their emphasis will be on the latest automation concepts and the use of advanced sensor systems for enhanced and more resource-efficient manufacturing, according to TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson.

“It’s ironic that while TMAS member companies are very much involved in accelerating Industry 4.0 concepts, their technologies continue to be crucial across many traditional industries such as paper making, where the use of technical textiles is perhaps not so widely appreciated,” she observes. “This is just one example of the huge and sometimes unexpected number of end-use markets served by our members as they have diversified from conventional textile technologies over many years.”

The company’s TCR loom has been specifically developed for the production of very fine and tough forming fabrics

April 2019

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

CREALET with a new logo and corporate design at the ITMA 2019 in Barcelona Preparations for the world’s most important Textile Machine Fair are currently in full swing. From 20 to 26 June, CREALET will be presenting innovative technologies for the electronic warp feed for narrow- and wide weaving machines at the ITMA 2019 in Barcelona. The trade fair focus on INNOVATING THE WORLD OF TEXTILES precisely reflects CREALET’s core business. The ITMA is thus the ideal platform for CREALET to demonstrate the entire portfolio, to exchange ideas with experts and customers and to get in contact with young talents.

The two independent companies Rüti Textil GmbH and CREALET AG seize the opportunity of a joint trade fair participation. Both are experts in the weaving process with the use of the latest technology in the field of industry 4.0.

Crealet AG is specialized in customized warp feed systems and Rüti Textil GmbH is expert in development tasks of the weft insertion.

Introduction of CRELET’s new appearance CREALET is thrilled to announce the introduction of our new corporate design, with a refreshed logo. The new design is in line with the evolution of the company with new products and services under the leadership of the next generation of leaders. All areas, processes and communication channels are equipped with this new design - but it is impossible to update all at the exact same time. If you still meet the previous logo at one point or another, you can assume that it will not be long there either.

CREALET presents itself with a new look on the pulse of the time.

Apart from the new, fresh appearance the visitors can expect new and inspiring features for optimizing warp tension control of small warp beams. Special solution in warp tension control for narrow and wide weaving machines is the core competence of CREALET. New features for warp tension control CREALET develops drives and controls that allow a fast and precise positioning and synchronized movements that support highest system dynamics in an intelligent system network.

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LT control unit The new LT controller is a control unit for warp tension control. It is suitable for various areas of application where the measurement and control of the warp tension is required. Typical areas of application are the control of small warp beams in ribbon weaving or selvedge bobbins on wide weaving machines. It is also used for warp feeding by feed roller when weaving from creel. The LT control unit is designed for continuous operation in the Textile Industry, with features for a quick setting. The LT control unit consists of a display. The display shows measured warp tension, active functions/settings and display settings in the menu.

Industry 4.0 and the Internet of Things (IoT) A rapidly advancing industrial digitization and trends like smart factory and the Internet-of-Things are challenges and prospects CREALET will handle together with qualified partners to expand CREALET’s position. A first step in this direction has already been realized with a customer project in the area of safety-relevant narrow fabrics. Innovation with sustainability a new lease of life for your machinery It makes no sense to work with warp let-off devices which do not meet the requirements. Instead, consider updating existing weaving machines to the latest specifications in warp feeding.

CREALET’s experts will advise you in detail about any possible improvements.

CREALET’s service benefits in y Increasing automation of existing machinery y Improving reliability y Raising quality and productivity y Extending equipment lifecycles

CREALET will be pleased to inform you in detail about: y Electronic let-off and cloth take-up devises y Warp beam devices on weaving machines y Warp beam stands for one or more warp beams y Yarn feeding devices for weaving from creel y Electronic selvedge thread let-off’s Meet CREALET at ITMA 2019, hall4, booth A110 and discover the innovations for small warp beam control and find out more about sustainable modifications of existing warp feed systems.

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April 2019

NEWS Raymond launches Ecovera in collaboration with Reliance Industries Raymond’s Ecovera, powered by Reliance’s R|Elan™,will redeem 1 million PET bottles from landfills Raymond Group, India’s leading fashion and textile manufacturer and retailer, has unveiled the eco-friendly Ecovera – a range of fabrics manufactured by using R|Elan™, the latest technology from Reliance Industries Ltd (RIL).

The Ecovera range will soon hit 1500 stores across 700 cities. It is made from R|Elan™ GreenGold, the greenest fibre in the world. R|Elan™ GreenGold is made by recy-

cling post- consumer waste PET bottles, using bio-fuels and energy-efficient processes.

Raymond’s Ecovera, powered by RIL’s R|Elan™, will redeem almost 1 million PET bottles from landfills. It’s a testimony to both RIL and Raymond’s commitment to saving the Earth.

Speaking on the joint development of the sustainable range, Mr Sudhanshu Pokhriyal, President, Textiles, Raymond Ltd. said, “We as an organisation are known for innovations in manufacturing top quality fabrics using both natural and man-made fibres. In our endeavour to create eco-friendly, sustainable fabrics, R|Elan™ GreenGold is a perfect choice to produce fabrics that have multiple qualities with superior handle and lustre. The use of R|Elan™ GreenGold is also a step towards achieving our goal of making our organisation sustainable and environmentfriendly.”

Raymond is one of the largest vertically and horizontal-

April 2019

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ly integrated manufacturers of worsted suiting fabrics in the world. It commands a dominant market share of over 60 per cent in the worsted suiting fabrics space in India. Throughout its history, Raymond’s motto has been: ‘Dressing the modern man right’.

Drawing from Reliance’s extensive R&D and vast expertise in fibres, R | Elan™ is a portfolio of innovative fabrics that does more. R Elan™ GreenGold is a new-age technology from RIL with globally supreme eco-credentials and specially engineered to fulfil consumer requirement for sustainable fashion. GreenGold is one of the eco-friendliest

raw materials for the fashion industry and is supporting major brands achieve their environmental commitments.

According to Mr Gunjan Sharma, CMO – Polyester Business, RIL, “We are proud to be associated with Raymond.

It provides us with an opportunity to do our bit for the environment. R|Elan™ GreenGold enables and equips Raymond to create an innovative and fashionable fabric with an added dose of sustainability.”

RIL’s petrochemicals business is committed to adhering to the concept of circular economy, recycling and waste reduction. Its aim is to make Indian textile and fashion industry a leader in practising these concepts. Thus, R|Elan™ products will provide consumers next generation fabrics that are in line with the latest fashion trends while also fulfilling their lifestyle needs. RIL’s efforts will give consumers the assurance that if there is R|Elan™ on the outside, there is something special on the inside.

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NEWS

A.T.E. AND LUWA MARK A DECADE OF WORKING TOGETHER In 2009, A.T.E., a leader in textile engineering, joined hands with LUWA, a global leader in industrial air engineering, to provide humidification solutions to the spinning and weaving sectors in India. A.T.E. and LUWA are backed by eight decades of experience in their respective fields, and LUWA has also been a solution provider to the Indian textile industry for over 25 years.

LUWA stands for well-engineered, innovative systems, plants, and solutions for textile and other industries, always conforming to Swiss standards. In textile air engineering, they offer solutions for humidification, air-conditioning, filtration & waste handling requirements. LUWA offers complete and comprehensive services ranging from consultancy covering conception to manufacturing, installation, maintenance, and warranty services. LUWA is a trusted name for it’s over 1,000 customers in India.

tor. However, apart from spinning, LUWA also has a huge presence in the weaving sector. One of its most popular offerings is the LoomSphere. The LoomSphere system has been developed to reduce energy consumption by means of direct air introduction focused on the production area where high humidity is required at the warp.

The main advantage of the LUWA solution is the laminar flow air direct displacement air outlet. The LUWA air outlet placed on top of the loom provides laminar low speed airflow to the warp by means of a filter mat placed inside the outlet. The laminar flow assures a steady airflow without turbulence that causes induction of air mixed with low humidity ambient air. If instead, a high-speed air outlet is used, the humidity at the warp becomes neither controllable nor stable, which would adversely affect the quality and steadiness of the fabric.

Mr P.K Singh, President, Luwa India says “With A.T.E., we found the right partner, which complimented our line of business. Our customers are our strength and we found similar philosophy in A.T.E. which is the major reason behind our successful partnership in India” A.T.E. has been in the forefront of the Indian textile industry providing latest technology solutions and serving as a one window solution provider across the textile value chain. A.T.E., with its strong sales network, customer relationship and industry knowledge, has been a perfect partner for LUWA over a decade.

Over the years, LUWA became the first time introducer of many new types of equipment, which subsequently set the standard as the optimum way to run a mill. For example, prefabricated air handling units in India have become very popular, which LUWA had introduced more than 20 years ago. LUWA is well known for its maintenance friendly rotary air filter with the suction nozzles mounted outside the filter drum; and for high-speed air washers made of non-corrosive material, with reliable high efficiency direct driven axial flow fans.

LUWA built its reputation in India with the spinning sec-

“ Our prayers are answered not when we are given what we ask, “

but when we are challenged to be what we can be.

—Morris Adler

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April 2019

NEWS BIRLA CELLULOSE CONDUCTS SUCCESSFUL HUB MEET IN SALEM FOCUSING ON SAREES As a part of their industry initiative, Liva from Birla Cellulose conducted a hub meet at Salem focusing on Saree Category. A key textile centre, Salem is known for yarndyed products and innovations in fabrics. The event was focused to provide a one-stop customer experience centre for innovation, technical, product and marketing solutions for the exporters, brands and buyers across the country focusing on the saree category.

Today, the saree market is about INR 65,000 crore and Sa-

lem has a unique blended fabric offering for sarees. The motive of the meet was to build awareness for the emerging trends within the saree segment, and also sharing an opportunity for yarn partners and weavers especially from the Salem region to participants and grow their business with Liva. This meet had participants from different regions like Ellampalli, Erode, Salem, Perundarai, Gobbichittipallayam, Komarapalayam and Belgaum.

Mr. Manohar Samuel, Senior President – Marketing, Birla Cellulose commented, “Salem being the current important textile centre and a forerunner in yarn products, proves the hub meet to be a perfect blend to provide the startling innovation and colours of the saree products to the various brands across domestic and global market. As per our consumer study, the demand for comfortable and sustainable products

April 2019

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will keep growing and LIVA will work as the right solution for comfort and fashion.”

Various innovative ranges of yarns were showcased by our esteemed partners-Sumeet Synthetics, Keshav Rayon & Anjani associates. The products showcased were wellregarded for their superior hand feel and luxurious softness. The products which were most appreciated were Silk X Modal, cotton X Modal, and Nylon X Modal.

Weavers found the event to be highly relevant and were

enthusiastic about the possibilities of innovation as well as processing and marketing support by Birla Cellulose.

The partners attending the event found networking opportunities through this event. The event was well appreciated and the attendees are looking forward to associate with Brand LIVA for sarees.

These meets by Liva have always found to be highly relevant and create an enthusiastic air about the possibilities of innovation and marketing support.

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SHOW CALENDAR 2019 MAY 2019

SEPTEMBER 2019

14-17

17-19

16-18

YIWUTEX Zhejiang / China www.zhejiangtextile.com Techtexil / Texprocess Frankfurt/ Germany techtextil.messefrankfurt.com

12-14

20-22

JUNE 2019 3-5

6-8

20-26

CINE Shanghai/ China www.cine-shanghai.com NON WOVEN TECH ASIA 2019 Delhi / INDIA www.nonwoventechasia.com ITMA 2019 Barcelona, Spain www.itma.com

OCTOBER 2019 22-24

FILTECH Cologne/Germany www.filtech.de

JULY 2019

NOVEMBER 2019

15-17

12-14

3-6

15-17

15-18

18-20

Garment Manufacturer Sourcing Expo Bangkok/ Thailand www.gftexpo.com/gms/ YARNEX 2019 New Delhi/ India http://delhi.yarnex.in/ F&A SHOW New Delhi/ India http://www.fnashow.in/ NGF Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in GENTEX LANKA 2019 Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.gentexfair.com

AUGUST 2019 2-4 GTE 19 Gandhinagar / India www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com 3-5 Yarn Expo 2019 Surat/India www.yarnexpo.sgcci.in 10-12 GARTEX Texprocess India New Delhi/ India www.gartexindia.com 9-12 TEXFAIR 2019 Coimbatore/ India texfair@simamills.org 22-25 CTG Phnom Penh/ Cambodia www.camboexpo.com 29-31 TECHNOTEX 2019 Mumbai/ India www.technotexindia.in

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25-27

YARNEX Tirupur/ India http://yarnex.in PREMIERE VISION Paris / France www.premierevision.com Textile Asia Lahor / Pakistan www.textileasia.com.pk Vibrant Terry Towel Global Expo Solapur / India www.vibrantterrytowel.com

1-4

13-15

16-18

20-22

20-23

25-28

MTG Yangon/ Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com International Sourcing Expo Melbourne / Australia www.internationalsourcingexpo.com INTEX SOUTH ASIA Colombo / Srilanka www.intexfair.com/ TexHub Istanbul / Turkey www.texhubistanbul.com/tr/ Techtexil INDIA Mumbai / India techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com VTG 2019 Ho Chi Minh city/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com SHANGHAITEX 2019 Shanghai / China www.shanghaitex.cn

DECEMBER 2019 5-8

5-8

ITMACH INDIA Gandhinagar / India www.itmach.com ITES Gandhinagar / India www.itsexhibition.com

JANUARY 2020 7-10

HEIMTEXTIL 2020 Frankfurt / Germany heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com

www.textilevaluechain.com

April 2019

INTERVIEW

TT LIMITED TO COME UP WITH 2 NEW GARMENT FACILITIES of of revenue share for the entire group’s revenue from the new factories.

“We had been restructuring our organization for the past 1 year. This is our strategic planning and we are bringing down our spinning capacity. The new projects will be installed in the vacant spaces of our spinning premises. The new facility is an upgraded version of the company’s existing potential and is likely to help in the growth of Brand TT in the domestic market.”, Sanjay said. The new facility is likely to produce both active and casual wear.

Sanjay K Jain Managing Director, T T Ltd

New Delhi based leading manufacturer TT Limited is planning to expand its operations with two new state-of-theart facilities garment factories in India. Speaking to Textile Value Chain, Sanjay Kumar Jain, Director, TT Limited, told the two factories have partially started in Gajraula and Avinashi. It also has plans to set up manufacturing facilities in Kolkata in the upcoming Hosiery Park.

Speaking to Textile Value Chain, Sanjay Kumar Jain, Director of the leading Tectile company said it had sold off parts of their Spinning facilities and had decided to bring in place, two state-of-the-art garment factories. In an investment of INR 20 cr put together, the new facility is likely to have advanced machinaries that will cater to their current needs. The company is also looking at 20%

April 2019

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Speaking overall on the industry scenario, Sanjay said that the ending financial year was tough, however, better than the previous fiscals. “Globally, the sentiments for textile business is are not good. Due to demonitization, liquidity system of companies had gone through a tough phase and all companies are struggling overall. ”Some of the other factors that challenges the textile business are the economy liquidity position is also not good“. However GST refunds are now up to the mark. We have also seen a slew of measures by the Government like reduction in hank yarn obligation, Knitwear Package, Refund of State & Central Levies for madeups and garments. According to him, one of the major hit was the drop in the sale of yarn material to 50% which became an advantage for Vietnam, further the Government has ignored yarn completed for both MEIS and ROSCTL. Further our currency depreciation also didn’t lead to any advantage, as cometiting nation’s currency have also depreciated. The textile industry is looking for a revival post election as the demand for clothing is likely to increase.

The textile industry experts predict that there will be regular money that flow into the system which will help the textile business overall gain its momentum.

“Government has brought many beneficial schemes for MSME that has helped the large MSME segment of the industry in a big way.”, he concluded

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INTERVIEW

TEXTILES COMMITTEE TO SIGNS MOU WITH KVIC; AIMS BRINGING QUALITY ASSURANCE relevant technical expertise to take up the tasks of Khadi Mark scheme.The role of Textiles Committee in the implementation of Khadi Mark scheme ranges from periodic on site physical verification on the premises of production centre, drawing and testing of samples to ensure genuineness of Khadi, establishing Khadi mark labels and tags eligibility of Khadi Institution or person verified and management of Khadi mark labels tags /labels.

Textiles Committee, through its 29 offices across the country will implement the project and provide authorization, mark of genuine, originality. The committee is also working to explore opportunity to make the materials traceable through adopting technology. The operation will be executed across India through Khadi institutions and weavers.

Ajit B Chavan

Secretary, Textiles Committee

Textiles Committee, the Government-run quality assurance agency has recently signed an MoU with Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) as an external agency for ensuring the quality of the products.

Interview with Ajit B Chavan, Secretary, Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, said, “In implementing the scheme of Khadi mark, KVIC has entered in to an MOU on 01.03.2019 with Textiles Committee as a professional body for on-site verification, testing of khadi products and Khadi mark tags and Labels management.” Textiles Committee, with its vast experience in successfully implementing similar government schemes like ‘Hand loom Mark’ and India Brand Handloom Scheme and possesses

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To start with, Textile Committee will be creating close to 10 crore labels. As the initial works has been instituted, in next three months it is expected to see implementation. According to Ajit, the Government-run commercial organization is already working as a third-party organization for many government institutions including Railways is ready to serve private companies too.

Khadi mark signifies that the Khadi product is made of natural fibre i.e. cotton, wool and silk through the process of hand spinning and hand weaving. The key objectives of Khadi Mark are to guarantee genuineness of Khadi and Khadi products produced in India - Hand Spun, Hand Woven and Natural Fibre, establish an unique identity for Khadi, improved customer awareness and increase popularity.

The Khadi Mark can be obtained by a certified Khadi institution or a person engaged in production and sale Khadi products. The Khadi mark Scheme requires periodic ‘On site verification of Khadi manufacturers to check the hand spinning, hand weaving of Khadi manufacturing and testing of Khadi products’ as per the Khadi mark Scheme.

www.textilevaluechain.com

April 2019

ASSOCIATION UPDATE Advt.

FEEL THE POWER OF SWISS INNOVATION

ITMA 2019 will demonstrate the ‘inventive DNA’ of Switzerland’s machinery producers For textile machinery manufacturers and their customers, ITMA is the ‘greatest show on earth’ – attracting huge numbers of delegates eager to discover the latest technology trends and the newest machinery developments. The 2019 edition of this four-yearly event takes place in Barcelona in June, and there will again be a strong presence of Swiss textile machinery companies, whose participation at any ITMA is always the focus of enormous visitor interest. The majority of the 63 exhibitors from Switzerland at ITMA 2019 will attend under the organisation of their national representative body, the Swiss Textile Machinery Association (Swissmem), whose president, Ernesto Maurer, promises an exciting and dynamic showcase of genuine innovation: “Swiss machinery manufacturers always provide some of the headline presentations at the big exhibitions,” he says. “Barcelona this year will be no exception, as our members will certainly demonstrate the power of Swiss innovation, a tradition rooted in our national DNA across numerous ground-breaking inventions in textiles and the wider world.” Swissmem is keen to emphasise the spirit of inventiveness which has brought history-making breakthroughs as diverse as the chocolate bar, fizzy drinks and

April 2019

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expert at drawing your fibres to perfection Rolls, godets, heating elements and custom built machines for heat treatment and drawing of synthetic filaments. Win – OLT ® yarn tension on-line monitoring systems.

Engineered and produced in Switzerland

Retech Aktiengesellschaft CH-5616 Meisterschwanden info@retech.ch www.retech.ch

18_0370_RET_Inserate_67x297_v2.indd

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04.03.19

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ASSOCIATION UPDATE the computer mouse – as well as a continuing stream of textile-related innovations for which ITMA will provide the latest evidence. The heritage of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association members is impressive, dating back to the dawn of the industrial revolution and amounting to a combined total of more than 4,000 years of expertise in meeting the needs of textile producers worldwide. Ernesto Maurer, At ITMA (June 20-26), every major sector along the textile value chain will be covered by Swiss exhibits, ranging from fiber and yarn manufacturing through knitting, weaving, nonwovens, dyeing and finishing. In many of these disciplines, such as textile testing and quality control and yarn spinning, Swiss firms lead the world. Tradition provides the essential background to the Swiss innovative spirit, but progress today sees companies which are in the forefront of modern and future trends in areas such as digitalisation, sustainability and energy efficiency, with data handling and interpretation underpinning practically every aspect of their work.

Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association, accepts that the industry faces ever-changing challenges – not least of which is inexorable globalisation of the textile business. “We in Switzerland are confident that we have the structures and strength

to keep pace with the continuing evolution of the textile world, thanks to our financially sound companies and, of course the ongoing development of the machinery and equipment that our ‘inventor DNA’ makes possible,” she says. “We also have the shared commitment to customer needs which is the core of our offering to the marketplace. Ultimately, we aim to provide added-value to our customers, to help them reach their business goals and achieve sustainable profitability.”

Few Glimpse of SWISSMEM Conference in March, 2019.

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April 2019

INTERVIEW

DONEAR INDUSTRIES TO HAVE DEDICATED OUTSOURCE SUPPLY CHAIN livelihood, leans towards fashion. Nowadays, most of them are fashion conscious. Anyone with a decent pay package is fashion oriented and aware of newer and nicer styles. We are a developing country; such phenomena is a sign of a healthy and improving economy.

How is the acceptance of Indian garments outside India?

Explain the adoption trends of Indian materials outside?

Today, India is very famous for casuals, specially for their creativity factor. The export rate of women tops is also quite high. In terms of mass production, we have potential to increase our efficiency levels to reach other countries’ production levels. While we are great at multi-functional utility or services, it is essential for enhancing skills, in a singular direction.

As a manufacturer what are the factors you keep in mind while selecting machine for your units?

Rajendra Agarwal Managing Director Donear Industries Ltd.

Rajendra Agarwal, MD, Donear Industries has been a pioneer in the textile industry for over 3 decades now. He is a firm believer of challenging the convention and daring to dream things that are otherwise seen as impossible. He has been the driving force of innovative concepts like gift box which has a pre-matched shirt length and trouser length and is used for festive gifting and installation of a state of the art liquid ammonia treatment plant to make wrinkle free cotton in India.In an exclusive chat with Textile Value Chain, he explains the current trends in the textile business and his organization plans. Edited excerpts.

In an interview, you had mentioned convenience and fashion influences the customers buying decision. Does it limits only with the young urban crowd or across everywhere? What are the materials you are currently manufacturing and are you planning to get into any new segments?

Yes, it definitely does. Basically, thanks to the Internet and movies, anyone who doesn’t have a challenge for

April 2019

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While selecting a machine, we need to be very particular in terms of which product we are going to manufacture.

As competition increases, one’s machine selection has to be skewed because it isn’t possible to think of getting a machine that manufactures everything.

In terms of reconditioning these machines, repairs and maintenance systems are very good in India. Obsolete technology is also handled well in India, as we have a strong technical infrastructure. The option of opening reconditioning centres is good. If the payback is below 5 years for any machine, it is always better.

What percentage of machinery you have are Indian made and how much you import? What difference you find products from India and imported ones?

80% of the machinery is imported. In India, the machinery consumption is low. The textile machine manufacturers are not able to match their overheads; there are very less textile engineering companies here as well. Spinning factories are not yet able to compete with retail but we have do have good manufacturing sites for them. We have processing sites partially, while weaving and knitting ones aren’t there. Machine consumption is less, which is probably the main reason behind the high import rate.

As a textile manufacturer, what are the key expectations you have from the government in terms of encouraging manufacturers?

India is an enterprising country. Certain government subsidies may cause unfair competition. We should help in creating infrastructures, industrial centres, workers’ training and skilling centres, reconditioning centres – those

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INTERVIEW would be more beneficial. As I mentioned earlier, enhanced efficiency will surely improve India’s textile quality.

How you see the purchase pattern of the millenials? Beyond

Explain in detail, your expansion plans?

On a capital expenditure front, we are not going to venture into any major investments and on the marketing side, we definitely will. We may have a dedicated outsource supply chain with quality control and software of our own, which can also help small enterprises as well, creating more employment opportunities too.

ADVT

They are more brand conscious and are inspired to try new things – they’re experimental in nature. It’s a good sign for apparels and fabrics because whenever consumption per capita is low, it is an indicator of good scope and growth in India. Here, ‘Textiles and Apparels’ is one of the easiest business. If small entrepreneurs grow, it will help the economy. Although it’ll be more competition for

me, it’ll help the economy, which is of higher priority. This would just push me to be more innovative with out products, which is always a good thing.

Export & Import HO : A-403, Nirav Park, Behind Maruti Apartment, Opp. Kiran Diamond, Umiya Mandir Road, Varachha Road, Surat – 395006 Email : bipinvora1959@gmail.com , voraassociate1@gmail.com Mob:- 8128 12 0707, Office Tel No : 0261-4897444

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