August 2016 issue

{l {psl

}hs|lGjohpu

ZZZ WH[WLOHYDOXHFKDLQ FRP

$XJXVW 9ROXPH ,VVXH 3DJHV 5HJLVWHUHG ZLWK 5HJLVWUDU RI 1HZVSDSHUV XQGHU _ 51, 12 0$+(1* 3RVWDO 5HJLVWUDWLRQ 1R 01( SXEOLVKHG RQ WK RI HYHU\ PRQWK 7(;7,/( 9$/8( &+$,1 SRVWHG DW 0XPEDL 3DWULND &KDQQHO 6RUWLQJ 2IILFH 3DQWQDJDU SRVWLQJ GDWH RI PRQWK

$UWLFOHV 6SRUWV 7HFK ,QGLD &KLQD 7UDGHPDUN /DZ 0DUNHW 5HSRUW

)LEUH &KLSV

&RWWRQ <DUQ 6XUDW &OXVWHU

UQ

6S

\D

RUW

QW

PH

V : HD

U

)LOD

7HF

LF

F KQL

) D EU

H[W 7

O D

LOH

1PMZFTUFS 7BMVF $IBJO

*DUPHQWV

7KH ,QGLD¶V /DUJHVW 0RQR )LODPHQW <DUQ 0DQXIDFWXUHU

3RO\HVWHU 0RQR )LODPHQW <DUQ 0RWKHU <DUQ 'HQLHU WR 'HQLHU 6' 7%5 'RSH '\HG

3RO\HVWHU 7H[WXUHG 0RQR <DUQ 'HQLHU WR 'HQLHU 6' 7%5 'RSH '\HG

1\ORQ 0RQR )LODPHQW <DUQ 0RWKHU <DUQ 'HQLHU 6' 7%5

ϱϬϮͲϱϬϯ͕ hŶŝŽŶ dƌĂĚĞ ĞŶƚĞƌ͕ hĚŚŶĂ ĂƌǁĂũĂ͕ ZŝŶŐ ZŽĂĚ͘ ^ƵƌĂƚͲϯϵϱϬϬϮ͕ 'ƵũĂƌĂƚ /E / dĞůĞĨĂdž͘ ͗ н ϵϭͲϮϲϭͲϮϯϭϰϰϬϬ D EŽ͗͘ нϵϭ ϴϯϰϳϳϳϬϬϯϵ ŵĂŝů ͗ ĞdžƉŽƌƚΛũŬŽƌŝŶ͘ĐŽŵ͕ ŝŶĨŽΛũŬŽƌŝŶ͘ĐŽŵ͕ tĞď͗ǁǁǁ͘ũŬŽƌŝŶ͘ĐŽŵ

(',725,$/

Indian Tax system heading towards International system of tax to earn for â&#x20AC;&#x153;India Incorporationâ&#x20AC;?. Segmentation of our country

(State) made their own rules (State Rules govern by State Government), Indian Rule govern by Central Government. Government also divided..!! Anyways, so each state made their own rules/ laws/taxes to earn income for states. This system earned good money

states / nations. " #

$

%

Imagine a manufacturer of shirts buys raw material â&#x20AC;&#x201D; fabrics, yarns, buttons, tailoring equipment worth Rs 100, a sum that includes a tax of Rs 10. With these raw materials, he manufactures a shirt. The manufacturer adds value to the materials. Value addition will be worth Rs 30. The gross value of his goods would, then, be Rs 100 + 30, or Rs 130. If a tax rate is 10%, the tax on output will be Rs *< =

" #

> *<?

B > *F? #

" #

< >*< H *F?

" # >"

# ?

$

J

L

" #

levied is 5 % (Nigeria) to 25% ( Sweden)*** Source : www.ey.com . India planning to keep GST rate between 18% to 27% to cover the losses due to unparallel tax systems among the states. If its 27%, then India will be highest in the world...!!

Indian Textile /Apparel / Fashion / Lifestyle industry ready to pay this amount of Tax?? As this industry practices few unethical

B

Y $

Z

[

GST everything needs to be billed to get back their tax rebate. This way economy will be more transparent, get exact numbers &

"\]

=

"

J

"

=

Z

but will surely become â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sone ki Chidiyaâ&#x20AC;? one day..!!! As today world is heading towards India to market their products by realising tremendous potential in India. If world can see, why our vision closed???

Domestic market is highest potential, so our focus should be on innovation, R&D rather than Indian Tax system. Tax system affects economy to compete in the world market, but tax is just a number..! Consumer pay for Innovation & Brand..!!!

L

Z

spiritual self...!!!

Thanks.

Ms. Jigna Shah Editor & Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the

and present factual and accurate information.

The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

4

Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075.

Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed & Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

6.%6

$GYW

6+5(( %$/$-, 6<1)$%6

ŽŶƚĂĐƚ͗ ^ƵƌĞƐŚ ^ĂƌĂĨнϵϭ ϵϯϮϮ ϱϬ ϰϰϰϵ ͬ нϵϭ ϵϯϮϮ ϭϬ ϰϰϰϵ ͮ EĂLJĂŶ ^ĂƌĂĨ Ͳ нϵϭ ϳϰϵϴ ϴϴ ϭϰϬϬ KĨĨŝĐĞ >ĂŶĚůŝŶĞ Ͳ ϵϭͲϮϮͲϲϬϬϮ Ϭϭϭϵ ͬ ϵϲϵϵ Ϯϱ ϴϴϯϰ ŵĂŝů ͗ ƐƵƌĞƐŚƐĂƌĂĨϮϬϬϬΛLJĂŚŽŽ͘ĐŽ͘ŝŶ ͮ ŝŶĨŽΛƐŚƌĞĞďĂůĂũŝƐLJŶĨĂďƐ͘ĐŽŵ ƐƵƌĞƐŚƐĂƌĂĨΛƐŚƌĞĞďĂůĂũŝƐLJŶĨĂďƐ͘ĐŽŵ ͮ tĞďƐŝƚĞ ͗ ǁǁǁ͘ƐŚƌĞĞďĂůĂũŝƐLJŶĨĂďƐ͘ĐŽŵ ĚĚƌĞƐƐ͗ ZŽŽŵ EŽ͘Ͳϭϳ͕ 'ƌŽƵŶĚ &ůŽŽƌ͕ ϯϰϮ <ĂůďĂĚĞǀŝ ZŽĂĚ͕ DƵŵďĂŝͲ ϰϬϬϬϬϮ

CONTENT NEWS 11- Arvind & CMAI 12- Case study of USTER

August 2016 ISSUE COVER SOTRY: POLYESTER VALUE CHAIN

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale

INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)

13- Polyester changing dynamics of Garment/ Fashion / Retail industry by Mr. Avinash Mayekar 14-SOS- Yarn Spinning companies in Distress

by Mr. Sanjay Jain ARTICLES 16- Sports Tech: Recent Advances in Sports Textiles by WRA Scientists 24- Global Focus: A comparison of Indian & Chinese Trademark Law by Mr. Arvind Sinha MARKET REPORT 31- Cotton Report 36- Yarn Report 38- Surat Market Report

EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

35- Textile Books by Dr. Mahapatra

Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond

Page 16 : Thymas Electronics

Back Inside : Source India 2016

CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION

Front Inside : Raysil

Page 39: Vora Associates & Amith Garments

Mr. Shivram Krishnan Senior Textile Advisor Mr. G. Benerjee Management & Industrial Consultant Mr. Uttam Jain Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce Mr. Shiv Kanodia Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber Mr. N.D. Mhatre Dy. Director, ITAMMA

Page 3 : J. Korin

Page 40 : TAI World Conference

Page 5 : SGS Innovations

Page 41 : Sanjay Plastics

Page 7: SKBS

Page 42: Intex South Asia 2016

Page 8: Gartex 2016

Page 43: Amarjyothi & TVC

Page 9: Rieter

Page 44 : Techtexil Symposium

Page 10: Conclave 2016-17

Page 45: RSWM

8

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2016

# !

# ! -+! "

-+ ! " ) ! "

( ' $"# !" ! # ! !" ) +! ' ! % " # , ! " # & ! % ! # ' ! $ #' # ! $ " "# # $ #' ! " *

%# 4 / ($) (%# * ( )& $$ $ # $ ) +":"" * #%)* . * $ ( '+ ( # $*) . "" $* &(%& (* ) $)+( %#& * * , $ )) $ /$ # # (! * $ :*) ( ")% , ) " $ %-$)*( # &(% )) $ $ $ * :$ " &(% + *

! ! % $ ! ! # ! % ! ' " %# #

&&& ! # !

, ( / & $$ $ "") ( , * # * - ) )* " ) $ * / ( 9;88 (%+& $%- %& ( * ) %+( )& $$ $ # "") "% * - * $ 7 !# ( +) +(( $*"/ $)* "" & */ % * (%+& . ) 969 <<< )& $ " ) ? 7<< (%*%() $ @< )& +*%# * ( +" ( !$ ** $ # $ ) * ) &(% + * %$ & */ % 7@ # "" %$ ! "% ( #) % / ($ & ( / (

*%* " *+($%, ( % * (%+& ) 5 99@ # " " %$ + " */ ) $ #&%(* $* *%& - * $ * %#& $/ (%+& ) ;<<9 ?<<8 (* : / + " */ $ # $* /)* # $ * %$ (* : * %$ %( 1 )* ( 0 ($3 ) $ ( %## $

& $$ $ "") ,* * %** /+( %# + 2 @?> =<;

$ +" # "$ + $ $ % , ( / (%+&) %# --- , ( /# "") %#

TITLED,

â&#x20AC;&#x153;MAKE IN INDIA, MAKE FOR THE WORLDâ&#x20AC;?

THIS AUGUST, JOIN THE AUGUST AUDIENCE THAT WILL WITNESS THE MOST STIMULATING AND INSIGHTFUL OF ALL THOUGHT SESSIONS!

Venue: The Grand, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi.

Time: 09:15 AM. Date: August 24, 2016.

Pre-registration is MANDATORY. To register, sms TDB EVENT to 56161 OR email your name & mobile no. to register@thedollarbusiness.com OR register on www.thedollarbusiness.com/events R.S.V.P.: Anupama Polasa: +91-8886331942 & Sravya Palukuru: +91-8886331932

Come, interact with representatives from the Government of India and India Inc., and witness a revolution that Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exporters and importers have been waiting for!

1(:6

!

" !#$

%'!() *

] $

Â&#x201C;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2022;

Â&#x201D;Â&#x2013;

Arvind Limited, one of the largest integrated textile and branded apparel players has recorded growth in the consolidate revenue by 18% at Rs. 2104 crores for the quarter ended 30th June 2016, as against Rs.1787 crores in the corresponding quarter of the previous year. Consolidated EBIDTA is up by 16% at Rs.241 crores as against Rs.208 crores in the corresponding quarter of the previ

] $

items grew by 27% to Rs. 74 crores as compared to Rs. 58 crores in the corresponding quarter for the last year.

Commenting on the results as well as outlook of the Company, Mr. Jayesh Shah, \

Â&#x2021; Â&#x2C6; Â&#x2030;Â&#x160;

Â&#x2039; Â&#x152;Â&#x2030;

textiles business, which recorded 14% revenue growth, continues to deliver a strong performance as we continue to pursue a calibrated growth strategy. The brands

business continues to demonstrate strong growth with 26% growth in Q1. Our established power brands consolidated their market positions. We are also excited about J Â? $

Â&#x2030; Â&#x2021;

NNNow.com which we launched during Q1. Â&#x2018;Â&#x2018;Â&#x2018;

$

J

Z

Â&#x2019;

tail shopping experienceâ&#x20AC;?.

Smriti Irani, Union Textile Minister inaugurated National Garment Fair in Mumbai fair, she appealed to take part in Pradhan Mantri Suraksha Bima Yojna in which by paying a premium of Re One

$

Z

will be insurance cover of Rs. 2 lakh.

In response to this, Mr. Rahul Mehta agreed that CMAI would participate

$

Z

y

CMAIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 63RD NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR FROM JULY 13TH TO 15TH 2016

y

FIRST TIME EVER, MORE THAN 800 BRANDS TO SHOWCASE THEIR LATEST FESTIVE COLLECTIONS

The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) has organized â&#x20AC;&#x153;Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s larg

[

#

H # Â&#x2020;< \ Â&#x2018; tional Garment Fairâ&#x20AC;? from 13TH July to 15TH July 2016 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE Complex, Goregaon (East), Mumbai.

The Fair was inaugurated on 13th July 2016 morning by Smt. Smriti Irani, New Union Textile Minister.

Congratulating CMAI for organizing the

Fibre2Fashion appoints

Advisor Fibre2Fashion, the leading trade portal for the textile-apparel-fashion value chain, has appointed TK Sengupta as Technical Advisor. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mr. Sengupta brings with him 45 years rich experience having held various posi

$

$

Z

August 2016

Mr. Rahul Mehta, President, The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (who is also the Chairman of International Apparel Federation), stated that this B2B Fair was spread over approx. 5,50,000 Square feet, covering all the Halls at the Bombay Exhibition Centre. There were 742 Stalls displaying 812 Brands. This was the Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Largest Ever Garment Fair held so far. Approx. 40,000 Retailers from all over India were expected to visit this 3 Day B2B Fair. Over 50,000 Invitation Cards Displaying the Participating Brands in Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear, Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear, Kidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear & Accessories were sent by the Association to Retailers, Wholesalers, Agents & Distributors Inviting them to visit the 3 Day Fair.

The Business Networking Sessions would continue this year as well. There

& strategic planning, export marketing, resource planning, MIS, consultancy and higher management activities. We are pleased to have him on board, and Fibre2Fashion "

$

experience,â&#x20AC;? said Fibre2Fashion Executive Director Mr. Jose Daniel.

Sengupta has B. Text Engg. from T. I. T. Bhiwani and MBA from FMS, Delhi University, and has worked with reputed companies like Reliance Industries Ltd. (RIL), Indorama

Â&#x20AC; Â

] $ %

Group, Fiberglass Pilkington Ltd. (FGP), at

www.textilevaluechain.com

would be Three Sessions namely (1) Agents & Distributors, (2) High Street Retailers, (3) E-Commerce Companies.

East India Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Federation will be participating for

$

Â&#x2C6;

#

= gal Pavilion with 25 brands from East India.

Iranian Delegation with 12 members belonging to Teheran Garment Union will also

Â&#x2C6;

#

$

J nian Delegation visited Fair.

Mr. Rahul Mehta noted that the market in Iran was US$ 16 billion, of which, 40% came from domestic sources and rest met through imports. India has been absent from there due to an extremely high im

J

H Â&#x192;Â&#x192;Â&#x2022;

apparels & 32% on textiles. After the Indian delegationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s visit, Iran has agreed to reduce import duty to 20 to 25% in 2 years. Iran offered immense opportunities for Indian export with a combination of western & traditional taste.

Smt. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner informed that the draft National Textile Policy was ready and it would be presented to the Cabinet. After approval of the Cabinet, New Textile Policy would be announced. senior management positions.

He has received award from The Synthetic and Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) for highest export of poly

$

J

*Â&#x201A;Â&#x201A;Â&#x192; Â&#x201A;Â&#x2020;

and 1996-97. He has also been awarded Cer $

Â

J #

] tion Organisation (ITPO) for second highest export to Latin American countries for 199899.

Mr. Sengupta has been elected as Vice President with â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Textile Association (India). Mumbai Unit.

11

1(:6 &$6( 678'< Stepping up to Total Contamination Control Cas

- -

3

4

Â&#x2122;

Â&#x161;

[ < Â&#x201C;F*Â&#x2020; H

Spinners are increasingly seeking to take control of the level of contaminationin yarn. They need to meet customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; quality demands exactly, using foolproof but Â&#x203A;

Z

Â&#x160; Â&#x161;

optimizing productivity. This case study focuses on an Indian yarn manufacturer which originally invested in early-stage $

Â&#x201C;FFÂ&#x201A;

graded to Total Contamination Control, combining the USTERÂŽJOSSI VISION SHIELDand USTERÂŽQUANTUM 3.

An experienced member of the USTER sales team in India, J.C. Kumaar has a strong relationship with his customers in the south of the country. His knowledge gained over 20 years has enabled him to assist an important client to implement step-by-step improvements in contamination control, in line with the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s goal of continual enhancement of yarn quality. #

$

blowroom, with its purchase seven years ago of the VISION SHIELD MPIX by Jossi. Since then, the customer has stepped up its requirements, especially with regard to polypropylene contaminant removal, opting for the USTERÂŽJOSSI MAGIC EYE in 2015.

The company spins yarn for the high-quality segment, typically mixing Guntur and Giza cottons to produce yarn counts of Nec 50s, 40s and 26s. A medium-sized mill, its priorities were better contamination control without increasing waste or causing more yarn clearer cuts at the winding stage. # $

Â?

trol came in 2015, explains J.C. Kumaar: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The decision was made to Z

$

Â&#x2C6;

$

Â&#x153; $

USTERÂŽJOSSI MAGIC EYE.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Settings and parameters were tailored to the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

H

$

H

sults achieved with the USTERÂŽJOSSI MAGIC EYE upgrade were far better than expected.â&#x20AC;?

Earlier this year, the customer again contacted USTER to investigate the capabilities of latest technologies for the move towards contamination-free yarn. At this stage, it was appropriate to introduce the unique USTER concept of Total Contamination Control, featuring USTERÂŽJOSSI VISION SHIELD and USTERÂŽQUANTUM 3. These systems represent the most sophisticated technologies available for detecting contamination at the beginning and end of

Â&#x2039;

$

[

H

H

-

12

$

The combination of USTERÂŽJOSSI VISION SHIELD and USTERÂŽQUANTUM guarantees the maximum contamination detection rate. With Total Contamination Control two-pointsapproach eliminating unwanted material in yarn the spinner can adjust the machine settings perfectly to meet precise yarn quality $

Based on the good experience from the existing solution, Mr Kumaarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s customer again chose USTER equipment for its second blowroom installation. The USTERÂŽJOSSI VISION SHIELD T and USTERÂŽJOSSI MAGIC EYE were installed. On the winders USTERÂŽQUANTUM 3was used for years.The delighted customer called to share the performance results. The feedback showed that

$

well that the number of clearer cuts at winding decreased by 50% for polypropylene (PP) as well as for foreign matter defects (FD).

A detailed report showed that PP-related cuts decreased from 24 to 11 per 100 kilometers FD cuts reduced from 22 to 10 per 100 kilometers.

Analysis of the waste levels in the mill produced further strong

Â&#x2021;

$

with the new installation of USTERÂŽJOSSI VISION SHIELD T with USTERÂŽJOSSI MAGIC EYE, waste was reduced by a factor of three

# $

*FF *Â&#x201C;F Z

= room 1 to 30-40 kg per day in Blowroom 2. Â&#x152;#

$

Â&#x2122; # Â? $

combined with the USTERÂŽJOSSI MAGIC EYE. The loss of good $

$ Â&#x17E; Â&#x153; Â&#x2021; Â&#x;

Â&#x152;Â

ports that overall process performance has improved through all stages of preparation and spinning. + "

"

Total Contamination Control is a doubly-secure method for

$

duction. Only the unique combination of the USTERÂŽJOSSI VISION Â J Â&#x20AC;\

Â&#x2122; # Â?ÂĄÂ&#x2122;[Â&#x2018;#Â&#x2122;Â

J

$

Â&#x161;

Â&#x160;

¢

their customers downstream. Â&#x152;Â

Â&#x2122; # Â?ÂĄÂ&#x2122;[Â&#x2018;#Â&#x2122;Â <

$ tuning of contamination removal to meet their own customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ex ¢

¢ Â&#x17E; Â

Â&#x;

Â&#x152;# Â&#x203A;

that Total Contamination Control is ideal not only for spinners serving markets which are highly-sensitive to contamination issues, but also for those producing yarns for less critical applications. Each mill can precisely target their control settings, opting for, or against, less waste or higher cut levels. Since all this technology comes from

$

Â&#x17E;

A Technology Centers. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA) and Suzhou (China).

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

&29(5 6725<

5

7

9 ; 9

3 ¼Œ§ [¨§Šª¼  ª­¯ªŒ

MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd. 3 Indian textile industry is dominated by cotton since ancient

$

J =

today our fashion dynamics have changed. Indian fashion industry is responding to global fashion trends. In fact our clothing style has tremendous impact of western styles. If we go 50 years back, there is hardly any fashion awareness in common population. The

$

=

J

shown a fashion evolution. Kids & middle-aged are equally fashion

Â&#x2030;

$

other than cotton.

5

; The PET used in fabrics by the fashion industry was invented

*Â&#x201A;Â&#x2013;*

Â&#x153; L $

Â&#x153; \ Z

UK who developed PET in response to the invention of nylon a few years earlier. Chemical manufacturing giant DuPont purchased the rights to their invention, known as Terylene at the time, and eventually developed their own version, Dacron, in the early 1950s. This endorsement by DuPont, along with the fact that the key ingredient petroleum was readily accessible in the middle of the 20th century, opened up the use of PET to the fashion industry and started the trend of using polyester in dresses.

China, both polyester production and apparent domestic demand

$

Â&#x2021;

Â&#x2020;Â&#x201A;

$

J

Asia are added, these three regions represent 86 percent of global production. Polyester is dominant, but nylon, the oldest MMF, still

$

Â&#x2013;

global production in 2014.

3 5 < =

"

$

sumption ratio is at 40:60 for

$

where polyester is major MMF $

Â

India it is reverse at 60:40. The demand for MMF from textile sector will largely be driven by the growing demand for clothing along with the augmented demand for the home textiles and technical textiles. Polyester alone accounted for approximately 66% of the total MMF consumption in FY15. The widening price

non-cotton spun yarn and fabrics will drive the demand for polyester in India. The polyester segment consumption can be segregated

]Â&#x2C6;ÂŁ H Â&#x2020;<Â&#x2022;

] Â&#x2C6; H <Â&#x201D;Â&#x2022; # ] Â&#x2C6;

H

J

J

and Bombay Dyeing. In PFY segment, RIL is the largest manufacturer accounting for about 55% of the total domestic production and Century Enka, Indo Rama Synthetics, Alok Industries, Garden Z Â&#x153;=Â&#x2C6; J

$

5

5 "

7

"

The graph shows the

$

in millions of tons, and demonstrates the dominant role that polyester

$

growth. The graph also shows the continuing dominance of polyester going forward, as calculated by England-based PCI Fibres in its forecast out to 2030. Polyester demand passed that of cotton in 2002, and has continued to grow

$

$

A very large part of the growth in polyester has come from China with India and Southeast Asia also contributing. In the case of

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

Polyester is known for its durability, tremendous resiliency, stain resistance, and wrinkle resistance. Polyester is also capable of retaining a colour dye quite well. In certain applications, this fabric can repel water and aid in the creation of waterproof clothing.

Polyester tends to have sheen to it. It does not shrink much, it dries quickly, and it resists mildew well. + 7 5 â&#x20AC;˘ Polyester is not biodegradable, meaning it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t break down

$ "

recycled PET bottles. â&#x20AC;˘ Polyester fabric is non-breathable; hence it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t absorb any sweat. It is not advisable to use polyester clothing during summer. â&#x20AC;˘ But properties of polyester can be enhanced by blending with

$

3

5 With the continuous technology advancement and research

$ Â?

suit various applications. Classic example is RecronÂŽ- a polyester

13

&29(5 6725< $

J

J

depending on applications like RecronÂŽ Easy Stretch, RecronÂŽ FR ( Â&#x2C6;

?

Â? Â&#x20AC;] >

$ ?

Â?

bright, RecronÂŽ Dyefast, RecronÂŽ Micrelle, RecronÂŽ 3S, RecronÂŽ Superdye& many more.

Coolmax, a trademark of Invista, is specially-engineered poly

$

Â&#x152; Â&#x17E;

$

like cotton. The series of closely spaced channels creates capillary action that wicks moisture through the core and out to a wider area on the surface of the fabric which increases evaporation & now often woven with other materials like cotton, wool, Spandex and Tencel. Properties of CoolMax fabric allows wearer to keep sweat free hence it is widely used in garments of mountain climbing gear, casual sportswear, underwear & mattress covers. Other useful properties include resistance to fading, shrinking and wrinkling.

$

B

other functional applications like dope dyed polyester yarns used in high visibility garments.

-

7 5

â&#x20AC;˘ Westernisation J

Â&#x203A;

]

°

$

countries. Indians are seen quickly adopting most of western fashion trends. â&#x20AC;˘

]

Z

$ Â?

ent properties whereas cotton garments tend to wrinkle a lot. so it

$

Z

J

Â&#x160;

wear. â&#x20AC;˘ > = Due to its inherent luster, polyester garments look more stylish & trendy, so it is highly popular amongst designers. â&#x20AC;˘ Strong Fibre ]

Z

$

strength; hence the garments are very long lasting & best suited for machine wash â&#x20AC;˘ *

Polyester garments are cheaper option over cotton garments

so preferred â&#x20AC;˘ - ? = Polyester has huge growth potential in export market as glob $

Â&#x2013;FÂ&#x2039;Â&#x2020;F

$

°

  Â&#x2C6; $

â&#x20AC;˘ @

7

Polyester Saris & dresses are big market in India & they are main contributor to Indian polyester garment market

" =

- 5

3 â&#x20AC;˘High Excise duty â&#x20AC;˘High customs duty â&#x20AC;˘GST Issues for textile Industry â&#x20AC;˘Lack of global competitiveness post dismantling of quotas â&#x20AC;˘ Limited number of players â&#x20AC;˘ Levy of anti-dumping duties * Q "

$

a share of around 77% in total production and consumption of man $

#

coming future because of changing fashion dynamics of Indian garment industry. To meet huge demands from domestic as well as international markets, India has to gear up in terms of current ca

$

#

match the existing demand, it is forecasted that demands will grow exponentially in coming future. So, we certainly need to update our current capacities to match growing future demands. #

$

J

$

tiles industry as it can drive the growth of the Indian textile industry in the future. This requires addressing of issues and constraints faced by the industry at present and make suitable provisions to avoid any foreseeable hurdles in the future. Some of changes like $

for MMF, custom duty exemption on certain raw materials & additives which are primarily imported, export oriented incentives can result in high growth of MMF industry.

In true sense, polyester has all the potential to become an uni

$

J

$

SOS - YARN SPINNING COMPANIES IN DISTRESS

<X% Z[\Z]

^Z_[ ]Œ­§¹­Š² Â&#x2018;J# [

In my business life, I have not seen a worse situation than this, where such a big disparity is there between spot cotton prices and yarn prices. This disparity for such an extended period of time shows there is a deep rooted problem and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not a temporary feature. The current isolated spurt in Indian cotton prices has aggravated the situation to an extent that many can hear the death knell.

The more disturbing fact is that no domestic yarn buyer is hassled or is rushing to buy yarn â&#x20AC;&#x201D; they know

14

`($

q '($ â&#x20AC;&#x201D; still no anxiety !!! International buyers have diverted their orders as cotton in India has increased much much more in comparison to international cotton prices.

J

Â&#x160;

over the last 2 years despite cotton prices being reasonably low due to a demand supply imbalance created out of new spinning mills coming up in some States (viable due to incentives rather than fundamentals) and slow demand locally due to two succes-

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

&29(5 6725< sive poor monsoons and overall subdued sentiments in the globe.

Exports have failed to cheer us up due to the disadvantage created

by FTAs of our competitors with the big buying nations and we as usual not able to break any ice anywhere. Â&#x2021;

"

yarn needs no incentives. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true that yarn needs no more any investment incentives but it surely needs incentives to export. Requests went unheeded by the Govt from various Associations be

Â?

H

or tried to understand the plight of spinning industry (though its $

= Z

?

z3 ; "

?

7

{5 3% % #%#$

'(!` and the way the industry is going 2016 is going to be worse.

Indian spinning industry is the most developed segment of the textile and clothing industry. It is a market leader in the global markets and we have 30% exportable surplus, which is being exported, all across the world. Hence it seems to be an industry needing no assistance, as the Government (Central & State) has given it a lot of incentives over the years leading to the industry coming of age with the best technology. However surprisingly the ?

7

"

" 7

%

It has grown no doubt but more on incentives rather than funda # Â&#x2021;

"

$

$

Â

State Governments (Gujarat Maharashtra, Andhra, Rajasthan, MP etc.) came in with even higher incentives leading to the industry continuing its expansion.

The state of the spinning industry can be further understood by the below chart which shows how the margin over cotton for the yarn industry has shrunk despite power, labour and other overhead costs going up. Margins instead of going up has come down and is today at a cash loss level.

As visible, cotton to yarn had a value addition of Rs 125/kg in March 2013 and went up to Rs. 144/kg in Sept 2014. Since last 1 year its been down to Rs. 115/kg and now its has come down to Rs 100/ kg. Hence in last 3 years, contribution from yarn manufacturing has reduced by 25% while manufacturing costs have gone up by about 10% !!!

!

We live with hope that things will improve, however instead of seeing green shoots suddenly the industry faces a dark black tunnel through which many may not get through to see the light of the day.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a serious crisis, hence kindly read me out (even if you disa-

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

$

? |

-

} â&#x20AC;˘ Unplanned and illogical incentives being given for building spinning capacities (so much that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s practically irresistible for one

>Â&#x2021;

"

$

Governments still havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t) â&#x20AC;˘ Lack of any authentic crop and stock data in India despite being the largest producer and 2nd largest consumer. Âł Â&#x2018;

$

ports, stock to use ratio and other cotton developmental issues H

Z

ent interested factions. â&#x20AC;˘ Wrong and misleading cotton estimates from leading agencies / associations â&#x20AC;&#x201D; gave a false notion that the country had enough

´

Â&#x160;

to give estimates â&#x20AC;˘ Crop size in 2015-16 season is turning out to be substantially lower than estimated, catching spinners on the wrong foot.

Quality cotton was exported at low prices and now cotton being imported at high prices (industry losing its main competitive advantage to competing nations). Âł Â&#x2021;Â&#x2021;J

Z

H

helps farmers by picking up cotton but when disposing works simply as a trader without any vision of price stabilisation, industry service etc. This year small open bids were made by traders for CCI cotton raising the price level everyday which acted as a market indicator for price levels â&#x20AC;˘ MCX/NCDEX is for hedging and price discovery, however its 99% run by traders and speculators (many who have nothing to do with cotton) and hence disrupts the physical market equilibrium. No action taken to rein steep rises in short times, allowing a free run to bulls. Curbing volatility of any nature is one of the prime roles of a regulator. â&#x20AC;˘ The Government turning a blind eye to the spinning industry without understanding the facts o TUF payments delayed and companies penalised for system er

= Z

$ #Â&#x2122;Â&#x2C6;

$

J

J H

Â&#x2021;

° o Export incentives given to all segments of the industry excepting Yarn under MEIS and subvention â&#x20AC;&#x201D; does the end user industry in India have the capacity to consume Indian yarn ?? India leads in exports not because we are the best, but because spinners have no choice but to undercut and sell yarn in exports to Â&#x2019;

â&#x20AC;˘ The Rupee has weakened much less than most other currencies, even yuan has depreciated more over the last one year !!! â&#x20AC;˘ Domestic consumption has remain muted due to 2 consecutive poor monsoons, fabric imports, and overall low sentiment in the economy Today the way the spinning industry is placed, there seems no

H

dumped to China at below cost prices to keep the mills running. Â $

Z

Â&#x160; [

Â&#x2018;][

are increasing, mills are partially or fully closing down on one hand while new investments are coming on the other hand. Old and new

~ 7 !($

- Â&#x20AC;

{ 5 Â

7 `$% Government is sitting peacefully and hoping as value added industry grows the balance will set in (donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know how they expect industry to get through these prolonged times before value added industry catches up !!)

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s amazing that despite this unprecedented and isolated increase of Indian cotton prices in 3 months, the Government has not

15

&29(5 6725< come out in any visible fashion to understand the issues and problems. Weak and small mills have been left to the mercy of God to wither away with the strong bull winds as the world looks on. There hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t been even a statement from the Government !! Of course some mills thatstocked cotton are making big gains out of this sudden boom in cotton, but the health of majority has got critical.

Anyway we live in hope and with a new Cabinet rank Minister we expect that the Government shall pay heed to the spinning in

Z

$

Zeven. We have everything that spinning industry needs, still we are

H

J # J

threshold and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now or never. Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cost escalation has given India a golden opportunity to capture a bigger pie of the large global market and up its share from 4 to 5% to 10% over the next decade.

* Q Sincerely hope the step motherly treatment to the existing spinning capacity with high leverage and created out of incentives wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be allowed to wither away. Spinning is a capital intensive industry and is very important for the value added industry to develop and thrive.

We should not forget that such

7 -

- =

-

-

=

" * -

go adrift.

Â&#x201E;(((

=

 "

Â&#x203A;

rary phenomenon.

Last but not the least, we should not forget that our biggest

$

J

H

have built our yarn economics on the same and need to take it forward to fabric and garments. Lets hope a comprehensive and well thought out long term policy/ strategy is put in place before its too late.

ADVT.

| - 7

Â&#x201A;

7 Â&#x192;Q â&#x20AC;˘ Allow immediately from April 1, 2016 MEIS and interest subvention for yarn industry Âł Â&#x2021; $

Â?

vantage i.e. cotton is leveraged fully and a healthy stock to use ratio of cotton is maintained. Our cotton to stock ratio (except 2015) has been always one of the lowest in the world ranging from 8 to 12% as against the world average of about 30 to 40%. Âł \

$

crop forecast and arrivals â&#x20AC;˘ Create a balanced All India policy in consultation with States to ensures valuable Government money goes into developing the

Textile Industry in a balanced manner (States giving incentives without seeing the National Picture is detrimental to the industry as a whole) â&#x20AC;˘ Release data by DGFT of cotton and yarn exports/imports on real time basis

16

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

632576 7(&+

? <Z]Â&#x2026;X zZÂ&#x2020;Â&#x2026;Â&#x2021; Â&#x2C6; Â&#x2030;_Â&#x160; Â&#x2039;[Â&#x152;Â&#x2026;Â?Â&#x160;Z [§²ªŠ² \§Œ­¾²œŒ Lœœ¡ ­­ªŒ¾¼ [œ¾§ª²§œŠ #¼ªŠ­   JŠ¹§ª >[²²ª¾¼­¹ ²œ  §Š§²Œ œ¸ #­š²§¡­ "œ¨² œ¸ JŠ¹§ª?

ºª§¡Â&#x2039; ºªŸ¯½žŒª§Š¹§ª ¾œº ª­Š¿ŸĂ&#x20AC;²ª½žŒª§Š¹§ª ¾œº

" J

$

Z

#

The Sportech is one of the fast growing sectors of Technical Textile which contributes around 7% of Indian technical textiles market. Sports textile sector is divided in three major categories such as sportswear, sport goods & sport accessories. Further, Sportech comprises of technical textile products used in sports and leisure

Â&#x203A;

$

#

Sportech segment is growing at 8.9 % CAGR. The present article

$

ture trends in sport textiles.

Keywords: Sport textiles, Products & Developments, Advances !% 3 Q Sporting technologies are man-made means developed to reach human interests or goals in or relating to a particular sport.

Technology in sports is a technical means by which athletes attempt to improve their training and competitive surroundings in order to enhance their overall athletic performance. It is the knowledge and application of using specialised equipment and the latest mod

Z

Â&#x160;

sporting technologies include golf clubs, tennis rackets, pole vault poles, athletic sports apparels (clothing and footwear), advanced computer stimulations and motion capture.

Sports apparels such as clothing and footwear should be user

Â&#x203A; ity, density, thickness, durability, toughness, resistance to moisture and more importantly cost. Sport Footwear is generally considered more for comfort and injury avoidance rather than performance enhancement, whereas sport clothing such as the full body suits used in swimming are often claimed to rationalise the competitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s performance times where winning or losing the race is measured in hundredths of a second. Sporting equipment such as the composite tennis racket has been created in order to provide enhanced ball speed, and reduce the potential vibration that can lead to a condition known as tennis elbow. [1] When developing a new technology, the following points needs to be considered: â&#x20AC;˘ Consumer satisfaction, aesthetics and pleasure in use. â&#x20AC;˘ Consumer safety. Âł \

â&#x20AC;˘ Environment: extremes of temperature, rain, snow, ultraviolet etc. â&#x20AC;˘ Life time. â&#x20AC;˘ Short development lead-times Technology has become a more pronounced changing force in the industry. Sporting equipment has been developed with technology features attached, like MP3/ipod sports shoes, the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;iGallopâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and mini stepper. Sports footwear and apparels are increasingly designed with the help of the latest sports science, with the appli-

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

cation of new materials to enhance performance. Increasing worldwide interest and participation in active sports and outdoor leisure pursuits have resulted in strong historical growth in the consumption of textile materials in sporting and related goods and equipment[2].

Increasing worldwide interest and participation in active sports and outdoor leisure pursuits have resulted in strong historical growth in the consumption of textile materials in sporting and related goods and equipment.

The continuing pursuit of even higher standards of end-user safety and performance is now stimulating the use of higher

$

[

of textiles for sport and leisure are extremely diverse, ranging from sportswear to boat covers, tents or high performance composite[3].

There has been a strong growth in the development and use of highly functional materials in sportswear and outdoor leisure clothing. The performance requirements of many such products

mal insulation, barrier to liquids, antistatic, stretch, physiological comfort, etc. The fabrics for active wear and sportswear are also specially constructed both in terms of the geometry, packing den

$

the construction of the fabric in order to achieve the necessary dissipation of heat and moisture at high metabolic rates. Many smart double-knitted or double-woven fabrics have been developed for sportswear in such a way that their inner face, close to human skin, has optimal moisture wicking and sensory properties whereas the outer face of the fabric has optimal moisture dissipation behavior[4].

Sportech segment comprises of technical textile products used in sports and leisure. The technical textile products covered under Sportech are as below: 1. Sports Composites Â&#x201C; [ $

3. Parachute Fabrics 4. Ballooning fabrics 5. Sail cloth 6. Sleeping bags 7. Sport nets 8. Sport shoes components 9. Tents 10. Swimwear [5] '% +

?

2.1 Sports Composites Sports composites usage in India includes boxing equipments, Â&#x203A;

¢

Z =

equipments consist of Boxing Gloves, Boxing Punching Gloves, Boxing Head Guards, Boxing Punching Pads, Abdominal Guard,

= ] =

J Â&#x203A;

17

632576 7(&+ volleyball, basketball, handball etc. Footballs account for 50% of the

Z

Â&#x203A;

Â&#x2C6;

Â&#x161;

Â&#x161; <

Size-4 and Size-5. Circumference for size 5 is 68.5cm to 69.5cm. Of$

Â&#x2013;Â&#x201C;FĂ&#x201E;Â&#x2013;Â&#x2013;Â&#x192;

0.8 bar. Protective equipments for cricket comprise of leg-guards, batting gloves, wicket keeping gloves, thigh pads, helmets, caps & hats, cricket kit bags etc

overall weight remains low.

Indian sporting goods industry is concentrated primarily in the cottage and small-scale sector. It is a highly labour intensive industry and also employs a large number of women as well Most of the units work on a job work basis for the major manufacturers/exporters and also sell their produce to wholesalers who in turn sell these equipments to sports goods retailers[6].

#

reduce ball speed compared with aluminium, while the latter pro

Â&#x203A;

#

$

Z

Â&#x160; #

reduce the high-frequency vibrations upon impact, racket handles

$

around a soft core of injected PUR or a honeycomb construction.

A delicate balance is maintained between the need for tradition and the desire for new technologies now a day. Sport equipment research can be divided into four generations or eras. They

Â&#x161;

$ ¢ $

$

$ # $

¢

Ă&#x2026; $ Â?

¢

capabilities and limitations its overall goal was to increase human

Â&#x160; Â&#x2C6;

Â&#x201C; ¢

$

#

major impact of advanced materials in innovative designs can be

$

inforced polymer rackets, golf with its tungsten weighted clubs, and vaulting with its metal matrix composite inserts and glassy metal inserts in vaulting poles. Generation 3 was concerned with human systems integration. During this era, more sport scientists (or human motion analysts) became involved in the evaluation and optimization of sport equipments. By this time, it was becoming increasingly clear that there is a limit to purely engineering solutions; thus factors of human performance were explored for equipment optimization. The fourth generations of sport equipment will likely focuses on biologically altering or modifying human physical

Â&#x161;

There will likely be a marked shift from building better engineering solutions to enhancing biological functions for better performance.

While generation 3 is currently focused on identifying optimized equipments through human motion analysis tests, generation 4

Z

$

¢

and human motor skills.

Golf clubs are made lighter, longer and have a bigger head by

$

nium. This results in greater club head speeds because of the long arc and straighter shots. Baseball/softball is made of hybrid con

$

aluminium in a double-wall design.

Â&#x; Z

$

Â&#x;

#

Â&#x161;

Â&#x203A;

making this energy available for maintaining the maximum possible speed with weight reduction as well. Skis and snowboards are reinforced with carbon (strong, fatigue resistant), Kevlar (impact resistant) and graphite (vibration resistant) while ice hockey sticks can be made of nylon/carbon composite which provides toughness, durability and shock resistance. Smart skis incorporate vibration control technology. When skiing at high speeds and on tough terrain, skis tend to vibrate, lessening the contact area between the ski edge and the snow surface. This results in reduced stability and control and decreases the skierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s speed. The technology employed by smart skis overcomes these limitations by utilizing a clever design and the integration of piezoelectric sensors and an actuator control system[4, 16].

Tennis manufacturers are now designing racquets with comfort as well as power. Previously, racquets had been designed to

hit but this means that the racquet transmits shock vibration to the

Â?

J

Â&#x161;

$

have been embedded around the racquet throat and a computer chip embedded inside the handle[16].

DuPont and Nike have collaborated to develop a transformational golf ball core that adds distance, straightens shots and improves control. Dupont has also developed innovative polymers for sporting goods in the past like a new insole for hiking boots is developed which is over moulded with hytrel thermoplastic polyester elastomer &, Zytel super tough is developed which is used as a device to enable mountain bikers to ride over obstacles. It consists of triangular shaped frame and a two part mountain bracket, the

$

Z

slide over an obstacle. A detachable plate system for inline roller skates from Zytel super tough resin is also invented to make the ice blade support, Delrin tough acetal resins to make the interface part clipped onto the shoe. Dupont brand Delrin for buckles and hytrel for the straps is used in snow shoe bindings. A device between goggles & lightweight sunglasses is developed by dupont in the brand name of Delrin for the front frame, hytrel for the rear frame, the front arms & the rear arms[7].

In pole vaulting, bamboo and aluminium poles have been re

$

# Z

Â&#x203A;

Â&#x2C6;

$

$

Â&#x203A;

mittance, torque (torsion) resistance and transverse strength. New

$

$

gives relatively high vibration transmittance with good fatigue resistance, and low vibration transmittance (good shock absorption), and titanium gives low fatigue resistance. This results in combining high fatigue resistance with increased shock absorption, while the

In other sporting equipment such as the golf club, the overall mass of the club has decreased which is believed to result in a greater achievable distance and possibly a more precise shot. The bicycle has also undergone modern day advances with the development of specialist wheels, pneumatic tyres, break levers and pedals, which are all aimed at increasing stability and rigidity of the bicycle. Prosthetic devices have also been constructed for those

$

$

Ă&#x2026;

Z Â?

step as the runner strikes the track, the device returns energy and permits running gait. The reduced mass of the springlite device

18

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

632576 7(&+

$

ple for sprinters, and provides some shock absorbing properties for marathon runners. Wheelchair devices used in sporting activities have also become more sophisticated, for example, with sharply slanted back wheels in tennis to allow the player to move swiftly across the court from side to side[1].

For the future, a better insight will be obtained in the relation

$

$

#

$

blades, and much better control of the processing of these polymers.

'%' Â 7

#

$

$

$

$

$

#

$

$

[9].

[ $

tured from synthetic materials with appearance similar to natural grass. It is used for making world-class surfaces for playing sports (especially hockey and soccer) which are normally played on grass.

J

[ $

considered a safe alternative to natural grass; #

$

Z

cloth, shock absorbing layer and the supporting base. The foam is made of a closed-cell polymer alloy like polyurethane, typically 1/2 inch in height and perforated for vertical drainage.

The hockey stadiums account for most of the consumption of

$

J J

$

Balconies, Atriums, Home and Corporate Lawns, Hotels and Resorts, Club Houses, Jogging / Walking Tracks, Shopping Malls, Traf$ J

 Â&#x; Ă&#x2026;

Ă&#x2021;Â&#x2020;Ă&#x2C6; #

$

$ ers & backing cloth, shock absorbing layer and the supporting base.

'%Â?

5 ; "

A parachute is a device used to slow the descent of a falling body or load. A parachute consists of four main components: parachute canopy, rip-cords, suspension lines and the harness.

Parachute canopies are primarily made of high tensile nylon multi$ $

<Â&#x201C;

Â&#x201C;FF

Harness, webbing, tapes etc are made-up of high tensile nylon yarn (denier range 210 to 840 denier) as nylon has the highest strength to weight ratio. ]

$

on usage: Defence, aero-sports and space vehicles. The parachutes applications in defence are Emergency Escape Parachute Assem

$

Y ] sonnel Restraint Harness for seated or moving crew members, Airborne Forces Parachute Assemblies including Reserve parachutes, Aerial Delivery (Supply Dropping) Parachute Assemblies, Aircraft Landing Brake and Anti-Spin Parachute Assemblies, Parachute de

Â&#x203A;

Z

]

are used in aero sports like parasailing/ parascending (the person is

Â&#x203A;

ground), Sky diving etc [6].

y

Pile Fiber - The grass like piles are non abrasive and soft to touch. The synthetic grass is made of either the polyamide nylon/nylon 6.6 or PP/PE, which is custom extruded into a mono$

#

$

roll and bounce, support non-directional foot traction, allow for water permeability and should have the correct balance of

of regular usage.

y

z = ; " Â&#x17D;

$

$

#

Z

Â&#x203A;

7 7

Q

Â&#x17D;

%

y

y

5 Q It is the fabric used in parachute

=Â&#x17D; " " ; Â&#x17D; provides cushioning for running or falling athletes. The foam is made of a closed-cell polymer alloy like polyurethane, typically 1/2 inch in height and perforated for vertical drainage

y

y

Supporting Base - supports the load placed on the entire structure, typically a 2-feet or 3-feet layer of asphalt or concrete.

Harness - The pack is fastened to the personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back or front with a harness. The harness is specially constructed so that the parachutist is not injured as the forces of deceleration (slowing down), gravity and wind are transmitted to the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s body as the chute opens.

y

Â&#x17D; Â&#x17D; A rip-cord is used to open the duck pack and allow

the chute to deploy (pop out). The rip-cord can be used in three

>

to the aircraft deploys the chute as the person jumps or automatically as the pilot is ejected from the aircraft).

y

Suspension lines - Suspension lines, or shrouds, connect the canopy (parachute cloth) to a ring on the harness. The line is continuous from the ring, through a seam in the shroud over the top of the chute and back down to the ring again.

Installation and maintenance are very crucial for the perfor

[ $ #

Â&#x2C6;

¢

base is very important. The turf suppliers provide these services themselves. Turf generally lasts at least a decade and requires no mowing, watering or fertilization[8]. #

$

mous increase in recent years. The reasons for this are various and

$

pecially with the development of the so-called `third-generationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ar $

$ $

Z

$

Â

$

$

#

$

during sliding is very important for the comfort of the player and avoiding burn wounds in combination with other characteristics of

$

Z

quality of the yarns.

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

Parachute canopies are primarily made of high tensile nylon $ $

<Â&#x201C;

Â&#x201C;FF niers. Ripstop fabrics are woven fabrics whilst using a special reinforcing technique that makes them very resistant to tearing and ripping. Older lightweight ripstop fabrics display the thicker interlocking thread patterns in the material quite prominently, but modern weaving techniques make the ripstop threads less obvious. Ripstop fabrics have high strength to weight ratio. The smaller tears and rips cannot easily spread further in the fabric. Air-permeability

19

632576 7(&+ is one of the most important characteristics because it determines the behaviour of the parachute itself, the rate of descent depends dramatically on this characteristic. The fabric should be of minimal thickness to enable folding of the parachute into a bag. Harness, webbing, tapes etc are made-up of high tensile nylon yarn (denier range 210 to 840 denier) as nylon has the highest strength to weight ratio [8].

Now a day, paragliding is gaining much importance in western countries. The main function of parachute is to land safely now parachutes are being developed which can be used to land from very low height [10]. '%) z 7 "

There are two basic fabrics from which balloon envelopes are manufactured - nylon or polyester. In Europe, nylon fabrics are primarily used for balloons because it is the material that both Carrington and Luckenhaus make and these two companies provide the fabric for most of the European balloon manufacturers. American balloonists are more familiar with the choice between nylon and polyester because a few American manufacturers use polyester. #

$

the denier range of 32 to 200 deniers which are generally ripstop woven. Ripstop fabrics are woven fabrics whilst using a special reinforcing technique that makes them very resistant against tearing and ripping. During weaving (thick) reinforcement threads are interwoven at regular intervals in a crosshatch pattern in the fabric.

The intervals at which reinforcement threads are interwoven are typically 5 to 8 millimetres (0.2 to 0.3 in) apart. Thin or lightweight ripstop fabrics get a 3 dimensional structure due to the thicker threads being interwoven in thinner cloth. Older lightweight ripstop-fabrics display the thicker interlocking thread patterns in the material quite prominently, but more modern weaving techniques make the ripstop threads less obvious.

Advantages of ripstop fabrics are - the favourable weight to strength ratio and that smaller tears and rips cannot easily spread further in the fabric. The fabric (or at least part of it, the top 1/3 for example) may be coated with a sealer, such as silicone or polyurethane, to make it impermeable to air. It is often the degradation of this coating and the corresponding loss of impermeability that ends

Z

Heat, moisture, and mechanical wear-and-tear during set up and pack up are the primary causes of degradation. These fabrics have a GSM of 150 to 250. Bandhu Aerospace is importing these fabrics from UK and USA [5]. '%`

The performance of a sail depends on two crucial aspects: Sail Design and Sail cloth. The sail cloths are tightly woven fabrics and mostly made of Polyester and polyamides like Nylon. These fabrics have a GSM of 200-600. Some of the high value sail cloths are laminated using sheets of PET. An ideal sail cloth should have the following properties: 2.6 Tear resistance 2.7 Modulus of elasticity: stretch resistance per weight 2.8 High Tensile strength or tenacity 2.9 High breaking strength per unit weight Â&#x201C; *F

" Â&#x2021;

>

$

fabric) '%!! Â?Â&#x2018;

Â&#x2019;`Â&#x201C;

20

2.6 Sleeping bags A sleeping bag is product that come under sport technical textile domain & act as a protective â&#x20AC;&#x153;bagâ&#x20AC;? for a person to sleep in and uses while camping, hiking, hill-walking or climbing during adventure sports & high altitude sports, camping, mountaineering etc.

Its primary purpose is to provide warmth and thermal insulation at high altitudes in extremely cold weather. It also protects against wind chill, precipitation, etc. A typical sleeping bag uses around 7

* Â&#x192; Â&#x2013; Z

$

$

Z

sleeping bags [8].

Recently, a project study is undertaken by Wool Research Association, Thane to develop a smart indigenous sleeping bag with heating property for adventure/high altitude sports. At present the existing sleeping bags are having extreme temperature ranges up to -20oC, but this range is not adequate to provide thermal comfort at very low temperature zones like siachin glacier (-40oC), Himalayan region. Hence, this project aims to develop a smart indigenous sleeping bag having heating property so that it can provide adequate warmth and thermal comfort to the person even at below Â&#x201C;F Â&#x2021; \

Â&#x160;

bag will help the sports persons for adventure sports at high altitude and also to the defense personnel serving in unfriendly terrain at Himalaya [11].

2.7 Sport nets Sports nets are made of HDPE, PP or nylon. HDPE is the most widely used material for making sports nets. The Mesh opening can be square or hexagonal depending upon the end use requirements.

The bulky nets like football and cricket nets are packaged in the form of rolls [5]. '%#

Textiles are part of the shoes on the uppers (lining, body, shoelaces and other closures), soles (footbed, strobel layer). The shoes

$

Z Â&#x;

proof laminates depending upon the end use [4].

The technical textile components typically used inthe sport shoes are: a) Shoe uppers made of PU/PVC coated/Laminated fabrics. b) Linings are on the counters and below the shoe uppers. C) Others including non woven insoles, laces, tapes, labels, elastics, sandwiched meshes, etc The shoe upper material should have uni

Z

$

erty. The shoe uppers and linings account for 90-95% of the technical textile components used. The desired characteristics of the shoe uppers are: 1. Breathability Â&#x201C; \ Â&#x203A; 3. Color fastness 4. Light weight 5. Durability [12] Dupont has developed innovative shoe sole for sport shoes which is made with Zytel nylon resins [7].

2.9 Tents A study was done to develop Cotton canvas tent fabric having " Â <Â&#x2020;F

Â&#x203A;

$ Ă&#x2021;*<Ă&#x2C6; Pure cotton canvas and polyester cotton blended canvas (Polyester/cotton 30/70 or 50/50) are the most widely used material for

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

632576 7(&+ making tents. Canvas cloths of 8-15 Oz per square yard are general

#

¢

¢

Â&#x203A;

retardancy and water pressure resistance to antimicrobial properties and mosquito repellency.

Â&#x192; < Q Swimsuits with metallic overlay sewn into the fabric are designed to be fashionable and not to hold up and endure extensive swimming. The overlay is guaranteed to fray and dull after only a short amount of time.

The camping tents are generally made of synthetic materials as they have a higher strength to weight ratio. Nylon is a very popular material because of its excellent strength, abrasion resistance,

Â&#x203A;

Z

micro-organisms. The fabric is woven ripstop when rip proof tents are desired. Nylon, which is also used in the hot-air ballooning and parachute industries, is primarily utilized in fabrication of dome tents and ridge tents.

Â&#x192; Â&#x2018; Q Swimsuits made from velvet and other types of crushed fabrics have become more popular in recent years. A vel

$

Z

$

L

tendency to soak up water, and can become quite heavy and sodden. This heaviness causes a velvet swimsuit to sag away from the

$

[

velvet is not a fabric meant to come in close contact with chlorine.

Like swimsuits with metallic overlay, velvet swimsuits are much more valuable for their uniqueness and style factors than they are for their longevity.

L

$

Â&#x160;

emulsion and alum acetate. Synthetic fabrics like nylon are coated with one or more polyurethane coatings in order to provide water $ # Â&#x203A;

ter and have a vinyl coating.

Besides the outer part of tent, fabric is also used as tent lining and ground sheets. The standard lining for a canvas tent is a â&#x20AC;&#x153;desoutiâ&#x20AC;? or cotton lining. This is generally made from 20x20 or 16x16 denier cotton yarn with 32 threads per inch in the warp and 32 threads per square inch in the weft. Lining of non-woven synthetic insulation layer of 4mm terylene weighing 500 GSM is reported to be used by some manufacturers in western countries.

Groundsheets are either separate from an inner tent or sewn

$

The ground sheets are made of LDPE coated woven polypropylene (175-200 gsm), PVC coated canvas fabric (500 gsm) or waxed cotton canvas fabric (440 gsm) [5].

2.10 Swimwear Swimsuit manufacturers like to introduce new swimsuits made

Z

unique swimsuit. The key fabrics used for swimsuit manufacturing are: Â&#x192; * Q Swimsuits and bikinis made entirely from cotton are becoming popular. While cotton swimsuits are fashionable, they do

$

a swimsuit. Cotton swimsuits are not known for staying in place on the body, and they have a tendency to ride up and bunch (an undesirable characteristic in any swimsuit). As a fabric, cotton does not stand up long to the destructive nature of chlorine and sun. It is likely that cotton swimsuit will fade fairly quickly, especially if swimming in chlorinated pools. "Â&#x192; ?9> Q Most swimsuits contain some percentage of spandex or Lycra in their fabric. These fabrics provide the stretchy $

"

higher the percentage of spandex or Lycra in the swimsuit material, the more the swimsuit is designed for more serious or competitive swimming. While high-spandex materials cover the body well and smooth out any unsightly body bulges, they can become tight and uncomfortable. Also, spandex has a tendency to run if snagged on the side of a concrete pool or on a wooden lounge chair. Suits made from spandex and provide little thermal protection, but they do protect the skin from stings and abrasion. Because highspandex swimsuits are designed for use in serious and competitive swimming pursuits, however, they are often treated for chlorine resistance. While this chlorine resistance does not provide complete

$

of the swimsuit.

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

Swim briefs are most often made of a nylon and spandex (Lycra) composite, while some longer lasting suits are made from polyester and still others from other materials. Most swim briefs have beige or white front lining made of a similar fabric.

Kneeskins and bodyskins are normally made of technologically advanced lycra-based fabrics designed to hug the body tightly and provide increased speed and decreased drag resistance in the water.

The LZR Racer Suit is a line of high-end swim suits manufactured

by Speedo using a high-technology swimwear fabric composed of woven elastane-nylon and polyurethane. The Speedo FASTSKIN3

$

full body passive drag reduction of up to 16.6%, an 11% improvement in the swimmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oxygen economy enabling them to swim stronger for longer, and a 5.2% reduction in body active drag, to create the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fastest cap, goggle and suit ever. With a distinctive and futuristic design that considers both the physiology and psychology of the elite swimmer, the Speedo FASTSKIN3 Racing System en

Â&#x160;

the athleteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s focus to perform.

The Speedo FASTSKIN3 Super Elite Swimsuit incorporates an innovative 3D Zoned Compression fabric system throughout, sculpt

Â?

Â&#x160;

namic swimming shape in the water, reducing skin friction drag by up to 2.7%. The system incorporates revolutionary Hydro KZone 3D fabric which provides high power, graduated compression

$

This is complemented by Pulse-Flex fabric used on the shoulders

dom of movement with powerful compression [5, 14-17].

Â?% ;

In addition to the innovations in highly functional man-made $

wool fabrics for sportswear. An example is the development of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Sportwoolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; weatherproof technology, where the constituent $

$

Ă&#x2026; woolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; are supposed to create a drier and cooler microclimate.

Few decades back, Gore-Tex fabric, a variety of lightweight breathable highly functional fabrics, has been developed worldwide. Highly functional fabrics are generally characterized as being waterproof/moisture permeable, sweat absorbing and with high thermal insulation at low thickness values. These fabrics are now extensively used in making sportswear and sports shoes. One can say that these products are basically complex materials with diverse functions. In many of these products, the requirements of

21

632576 7(&+ comfort and fashion have successfully been integrated with segmentation in uses.

The structure and functions of natural biological materials are

$ #

Ă&#x2026; metics, could make it possible in future to replicate the molecular design and morphology of natural biological materials since their structure and functions are related. Already in many laboratories

\

Z

$

chemistry and fabric formation. A typical example is the development of water- and soil-repellent fabrics produced by imitating the surface structure of a lotus leaf. Water rolls like mercury from the lotus leaf, whose surface is microscopically rough and covered with a wax-like substance with low surface tension. When water is dropped on to the surface of a lotus leaf, air is trapped in the dents and forms a boundary with water.

The intelligent textiles and interactive materials in the Sportswear sector readily interact with human/environmental conditions thereby creating changes in the material properties. For example, the phase change materials and shape-memory polymers embedded in fabric layers will be able to interact with a human body and

between the clothing and the human skin. In addition to the two dimensions of functionality and aesthetics, if â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;intelligenceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; can be embedded or integrated into clothing as a third dimension, it would lead to the realization of protective and safety clothing as a personalized wearable information infrastructure. Soft-switch technology allows the introduction of electrical circuitry and communication systems to be built into the garment. GPS (global positioning systems) life-saving technology can be built into skiwear so that avalanche victims have a better chance of survival. These are just some of the advances in intelligent textiles with many more developments to come in near future. With the increasing interest in wearable electronic systems, new conductive materials have been developed for sensing, actuating and signal transmission. Conductive components (metal, carbon or metal salt particles) can be added to

>$

fabric formation, coating) using conventional or new techniques.

$

leisure activities helps to speed the runner, keep the jogger dry and cool, streamline the swimmer, protect the cricketer, hockey player and snowboarder, keep the football player and cyclist dry, and keep the user comfortable and warm in extreme weather conditions.

The functional design of newly developed sportswear and sports footwear has a strong impact on leisurewear and leisure footwear as well.

Highly functional coated and laminated fabrics are now commercially available which are aesthetically attractive, breathable yet with the desired barrier characteristics against the external elements. These fabrics are engineered by using either microporous or hydrophilic membranes, and the water vapour transmission through these membranes is achieved by the physical processes of

The rise of all-in-one suits in competition swimming and running, now spreading to winter sports and high-level athletics, is introduc

$

#

development of seamless and stitch less manufacturing processes is also opening new design options by making it possible to create garments combining several functions in a single, smooth layer to

$

22

The emergence of stitchless garment construction techniques is introducing novel design features to outerwear. The switch to garments that do away with stitching altogether and are entirely heat-sealed is the next step in advanced garment design. The latest generation of high-tech garments is now totally devoid of sewn

=

Z $

even more streamlined. Laser-cut edges, watertight zippers and trimming can now be compressed into a single indivisible bonded layer. Hems that no longer need to be folded reduce added thick

Â&#x2122;

$

$ $

ment manufacturing has taken to reduce bulk and weight. The introduction of watertight zippers has made it possible to forgo wind

Â&#x203A;

A waterproof jacket designed to withstand heavy rain will always

Â&#x203A;

] Z

the double function of storage and ventilation.

Innovation in design is a matter not only of adding to but also of removing or reducing. Trimming options also have advanced re  Z

Â&#x203A;

with added layers formerly required for hemming and sewing purposes.

Tomorrowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s consumers will be increasingly used to mixing sport and city garments, which will be considered largely interchange Â&#x2C6;

Â&#x160;

This is where a garmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cut and design become critical.

Nanotechnology is considered to give an enormous push to technical properties in textiles such as electrical conductivity, magnetic susceptibility, interaction with light, photonics, chemical protection, friction control, electricity, abrasion resistance, waste water and oil repellence, soil release, biocompatibility, etc., of existing products and as an innovative basis for new products. Tailoring and controlling of structures on a nanoscale level are considered to be key factors for the development of advanced materials or structural components and multifunctional applications. Some of the important developments in the R&D of nanostructured coating are sol-gel techniques (dirt-repellent and anti-static properties), metallization and layers with ceramics, polymer coating by plasma (antistatic properties) etc.

The usefulness of composites in sports gear depends upon the intended end-use. Some applications require good shock (and thus energy) absorption, whereas others require a minimal energy loss in order to generate high speeds. Most of the time, a balance between several more or less contradictory requirements has to be sought. The eventual properties of the product depend upon the materials used, the design and the production technology [4].

Several products are designed to improve the comfort of the wearer and some products such as breathable waterproof fabrics such as Gore-TexÂŽ and moisture-management textiles that wick moisture away from the skin such as CoolmaxÂŽ are commercially available. Gore-TexÂŽ fabric utilises a membrane of > Â&#x203A; ?>]#Â&#x2C6; ?

* Ă&#x160;

ameter, allows water vapor to penetrate the material, but prevent the passage of liquid and facilitates bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural thermoregulatory function.

Phase-change technology is another technology which helps in maintaining constant body temperature. Here phase changing materials (PCMs) absorb, store, and release heat as the material

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

632576 7(&+ changes phase from solid to liquid and back to solid. Usually, microencapsulation process is employed to capture small amounts of phase change material in a polymer shell so that it is permanently enclosed and protected. These microcapsules can then be applied

$

$

turing process. Â&#x2018;

$

sules with more desirable characteristics than microcapsules which will possess greater application in sports textile.

There is another emerging new area of research that will have a major impact for sports performance and involves integrating chemical sensors into textiles. Several researches have been going

$

constituents in sweat. The approach being taken is to integrate electrochemical and optical sensors within a textile substrate, enabling the direct collection of sweat from a large body surface area.

The target analytes include sodium, chloride, pH, sweat rate, and sweat conductivity in addition to monitoring cardiac and respiratory functions. This is of particular interest in sports applications where rehydration strategy plays a critical role in the recovery process after exercise. It is important not only to replace volume losses due to sweat, but also electrolytes. These factors are highly variable among individuals, and current techniques are impractical, involving sweat patches that must be sent to a laboratory for analy =JÂ&#x2030;# Ă&#x2039;

Â&#x203A;

handling platform based on moisture-wicking fabrics and nonwoven super absorbent textiles. The sensing elements are integrated

Â? Â&#x203A;

sition. Control electronics and wireless data transmission allow real-time analysis of the signal and gives feedback to the wearer regarding their well-being, making individuals more aware of their personal healthcare needs. [14] Adidas miCoach Elite System was included within Adidasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Olympic Performance Sports Bra [18]. It has also been introduced to football to help with coaching and game monitoring. For this,

Â&#x2021;

$

protective pocket located within the back of a playerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s base layer, between the shoulder blades. EnergearTM is an entirely new textile technology from Schoeller. It ensures that the energy radiated by

Â&#x203A; Z

#

Z

Â&#x203A;

back heat energy rays. L2 THERMO technology creates enhanced and rapid thermal insulation, heat storage and re-emission. It further enhances the blood circulation, thus stimulating cellular me

$

#

$ $

performance sportswear, sleepwear, work wear, garments or underwear. Garments made with L2 THERMO have insulation properties and rapid warming from an increase of +5°C to over amazing +22°C, depending on the percentage of L2 master batches used in virgin materials. LITRAX provides L2 THERMO master batches for polyamide, polyester, polypropylene and building materials.

[16] Technologies such as CAD (Computer Aided Design) can play a major role in the improvement of sporting equipment. CAD allows virtual design and testing techniques to be applied to all aspects of sport and leisure equipment research and development. CAD of

Â&#x160;

and ideas, and is primarily used to improve safety, comfort and effectiveness of specialised sports equipment. CAD is also used regu-

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

° $

$

competitive and training circumstances. Other technologies such as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;smartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; equipment can be used to evaluate human performance.

These include sensors and computers as part of their utility and can be used by athletes as part of their training regime. Examples of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;smartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; equipment technologies include devices used for exercise stress testing and cardiovascular assessment, human reaction time and frequency of movement meters, and jump and run characteristics devices. More modern technologies such as motion capture analysis are also used to analyse athletic performance. This involves digitally recording the movements of athletes during sporting activities which can then be used for personal performance evaluation by the sports person, for enhanced spectator entertainment, and in some cases medical treatment.

The use of modern technologies in sport may mean that com

athletes due to the potential high costs of specialised sports equipment. In those sports incorporating individuals with a particular disability, there are a variety of methods in which assistance can

Â&#x2C6;

$

make them wheelchair accessible, specialised equipment can also

$

#

and Exercise Sciences Research Institute within the University of Ulster aim to facilitate, co-ordinate and carry out high quality research, and promote a vibrant culture of research and scholarship with the university, health providers, government bodies and other centers of excellence. The group encompasses several areas of re

$

of physical activity, social sciences of sport, sport and exercise psychology, physiology and biomechanics, and sport technology. [1]

$

$

future, with widespread commercial applications in the followings: â&#x20AC;˘ Textile sensors for pulse / posture monitoring â&#x20AC;˘ Soft controls for operation of consumer electronics â&#x20AC;˘ Solar panels on a textile substrate for charging consumer electronics â&#x20AC;˘ Textile integrated LEDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for lighting functions â&#x20AC;˘ Soft displays for a variety of fun and alerting applications â&#x20AC;˘ Textile heating / cooling elements for temperature regulation Âł ]

$

B

ing of architectural structures While trends in use of smart textiles in sports applications are

$

Ă&#x2021;*Â&#x192;Ă&#x2C6; )% * = Recent developments in sport textiles have created a variety of products aimed at improving and increasing athletic performance.

Athletic health can be maintained and observed, and injuries treated, through the production of modern sporting technologies such as heart rate monitors, pedometers and body-fat monitors.

Through this, a greater deepened knowledge of the human body and its potential has been recognized, allowing athletes to train and compete in sports to a much older age. Participant safety at all times has also been made possible through the development of certain sporting products & equipment, such as helmets and body protection which are used in boxing and ice hockey to help prevent injuries. Modern sporting technologies have also made competi-

23

632576 7(&+ tion judging easier and more accurate, and spectator interest and excitement is enhanced by broadcasting and in-stadium displays (scoreboards). #

$

for sport persons so that sports will be safer for them and comfort provided by the innovative sport products will result in the better sport performance. = -

The authors of this article are thankful to the Management & Director, Wool Research Association (Attached to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India) for their continuous support, valuable guidance & inputs.

7 Q

7. http://www2.dupont.com/Sporting_Goods/en_US/assets/downloads/ ap81069.pdf Ă&#x17D; [ $

Â&#x152;=

Indiaâ&#x20AC;? submitted by ICRA management consulting services limited to Â&#x2030;Â&#x160;

# Â&#x2021;

Â

"

J

March 2009 9. Goswami K.K.; Advances in carpet manufacture; Woodhead publishing limited 2009, Developments in textile sports surfaces; G Schoukens, Ghent University, Belgium, pp 102 -137 10. J. Udakhe, Sport textiles (Sportech), WRA newsletter, WoolTech, Vol FÂ&#x201C; J Â&#x2018; F<

Â&#x153; Â&#x201C;F*Â&#x201C;

Ă&#x17D; H *F 11. http://www.wraindia.com/MOTProject 12. Basuk M. & Bhute A. Textile in Sports Shoes, Dye Chem Pharma Business News, May 2013, pp. 55-57

1. http://www.ulster.ac.uk/scienceinsociety/technologyinsport.html

13. Shweta S. Joshi, Dr. A. I. Wasif, A. K. Prasad, Development in Tent Fabric for Defence Applications, www.technicaltextile.net

2. Basuk M., Sengupta A, Bhute A. & Tyagi S., Overview of Indian Sporting Goods & Equipments Industry, Book of Papers. National Seminar on Sportech - Needs, Challenges & Prospects organized by WRA, Thane, Centre of Excellence for Sportech, January 29th, 2013, pp

14. Prof. Dr. Mangala Joshi & Ayeshvaryaa T V, Advances in Clothing and Textile based composites for Sports-Tech, Book of Papers. National Seminar on Sportech - Needs, Challenges & Prospects organized by WRA, Thane, Centre of Excellence for Sportech, January 29th, 2013, pp 63-68

3. O L Shanmugasundaram, Technical textiles and their applications, The Indian textile journal May, 2009 http://www.indiantextilejournal.com assessed on 15th May 2013

15. Smart textiles in sports wear - whitepaper supplement, DRAFT Ohmatex dated 13.05.2008

4. Mayekar Avinash, Emerging Trends, Challenges & Prospects of Sportech, Book of Papers. National Seminar on Sportech - Needs, Challenges & Prospects organized by WRA, Thane, Centre of Excellence for Sportech, January 29th, 2013, pp 13-23 Â&#x192; [

H

J L Zshop on Sport Textiles, ICRA management consulting services limited]

16. Technology in Sports, TechTex India, Apr - Jun 2013 Vol.7, Issue 2, BCH Newsline, pp 4- 13 17. A. Sengupta, J.S. Udhakhe & AK Samanta, Sports Accessories: To provide requisite playing conditions for designated sports, National seminar on Sportech, New Delhi, India, 2012 18. Source: www.global.adidas.com/

6. http://www.ittaindia.org

IMPACT OF GST

24

6RXUFLQJ

Ă&#x201A;,QWHU 6WDWH SURFXUHPHQW FRXOG SURYH YLDEOH Ă&#x201A;7KLV PD\ RSHQ RSSRUWXQLWLHV WR FRQVROLGDWH VXSSOLHUV YHQGRUV Ă&#x201A;$GGLWLRQDO GXW\ &9' DQG 6SHFLDO $GGLWLRQDO GXW\ FRPSRQHQWV RI FXVWRPV GXW\ WR EH UHSODFHG

'LVWULEXWLRQ

Ă&#x201A;&KDQJHV LQ WD[ V\VWHP FRXOG ZDUUDQW FKDQJHV LQ ERWK SURFXUHPHQW DQG GLVWULEXWLRQ DUUDQJHPHQWV Ă&#x201A;&XUUHQW DUUDQJHPHQWV IRU GLVWULEXWLRQ RI ÂżQLVKHG JRRGV PD\ QR ORQJHU EH RSWLPDO ZLWK WKH UHPRYDO RI WKH FRQFHSW RI H[FLVH GXW\ RQ PDQXIDFWXULQJ Ă&#x201A;&XUUHQW QHWZRUN VWUXFWXUH DQG SURGXFW Ă&#x20AC;RZV PD\ QHHG UHYLHZ DQG SRVVLEOH DOWHUDWLRQ

3ULFLQJ DQG SURÂżWDELOLW\

Ă&#x201A; 7D[ VDYLQJV UHVXOWLQJ IURP WKH *67 VWUXFWXUH ZRXOG UHTXLUH UHSULFLQJ RI SURGXFWV Ă&#x201A; 0DUJLQV RU SULFH PDUN XSV ZRXOG DOVR QHHG WR EH UH H[DPLQHG

&DVK Ă&#x20AC;RZ

Ă&#x201A; 5HPRYDO RI WKH FRQFHSW RI H[FLVH GXW\ RQ PDQXIDFWXULQJ FDQ UHVXOW LQ LPSURYHPHQW LQ FDVK Ă&#x20AC;RZ DQG LQYHQWRU\ FRVWV DV *67 ZRXOG QRZ EH SDLG DW WKH WLPH RI VDOH VXSSO\ UDWKHU WKDQ DW WKH WLPH RU UHPRYDO RI JRRGV IURP WKH IDFWRU\

6\VWHP FKDQJHV DQG WUDQVDFWLRQ PDQDJHPHQW

Ă&#x201A;3RWHQWLDO FKDQJHV WR DFFRXQWLQJ DQG ,7 V\VWHPV LQ DUHDV RI PDVWHU GDWD VXSSO\ FKDLQ WUDQVDFWLRQV V\VWHP GHVLJQ Ă&#x201A;([LVWLQJ RSHQ WUDQVDFWLRQV DQG EDODQFHV DV RQ WKH FXW RII GDWH QHHG WR EH PLJUDWHG RXW WR HQVXUH VPRRWK WUDQVLWLRQ WR *67 Ă&#x201A;&KDQJHV WR VXSSO\ FKDLQ UHSRUWV H J SXUFKDVH UHJLVWHU VDOHV UHJLVWHU VHUYLFHV UHJLVWHU RWKHU WD[ UHSRUWV DQG IRUPV H J LQYRLFHV SXUFKDVH RUGHUV

QHHG UHYLHZ Ă&#x201A;$SSURSULDWH PHDVXUHV VXFK DV WUDLQLQJ RI HPSOR\HHV FRPSOLDQFH XQGHU *67 FXVWRPHU HGXFDWLRQ DQG WUDFNLQJ RI LQYHQWRU\ FUHGLW DUH QHHGHG WR HQVXUH VPRRWK WUDQVLWLRQ WR WKH *67 UHJLPH

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

*/2%$/ )2&86

* 7 3

* = > Mr. Arvind Sinha Â&#x2021; Â&#x2030; Ă? Â&#x2021;¼§­¸ [¹¨§œŒ =Ÿ§Š­ [¹¨§œŒ "ŒœŸĂ&#x20AC; Â&#x2039;¡§œŠª§Š¼ª½¿ºª§¡ ¾œº

This is an important study conducted after discussing with more than 100 business associates in China, Hongkong, India & London. Many publications, Press News were collected to compile this report.

The Indian legal system comes under frequent criticism for vari

H

loed by corruption in enforcement bodies and the lower judiciary.

Delays particularly haunt those foreign entities that have not until recently had India on their map. [

J Â?

the same protective rights to citizens and domestic legal entities as it does to foreign individuals or legal entities under its IP laws.

7

Indian courts have incorporated the principle of transborder reputation in trademark law jurisprudence and granted countless foreign trademark right owners wide protection for their brands, often in the absence of even a trademark registration in India, and frequently without use of the trademark in the Indian market. Indian courts have protected these trademarks on broad principles of equity and the desirabiulity of upholding good business ethics under the law of torts.

There are adquate opportunities in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legal system to remedy an incorrect decision or wrongly laid down law. The writ jurisdiction of the courts under the constitution is a powerful tool for any

Z

inaction and/or negligence on the part of government authorities, and this has come to the aid of many foreign entities with a grievance against the authorities established under IP laws.

The primary legislation on trademarks in India is the Trade Marks Act, 1999, along with the Trade Mark Rules, 2002, which contain the rules and procedures for the implementation of the substantive law. There are other statutes that are relevant for trademarks and their application, such as the Intellectual Property Rights (Imported Goods) Enforcement Rules, 2007, under the Customs Act, 1962, which provides for the enforcement of trademark rights by customs authorities.

India completed its accession to the Madrid Protocol in July Â&#x201C;F*<

$

Z $

J

$ solidated application. India is also a signatory to the World Trade Organisationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Agreement on Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Proeprty Rights (TRIPS) and a longstanding member country of

L

J ]

Â&#x2030; Â&#x161; H

treaties.

= Q 5 7 * " = Words, logos, three-dimensional shapes, textures, colours and sounds are all capable of being protected as trademarks in India.

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

For instance, the shapes of Gorbatschow Vodka bottles, Ferrero Rocher chocolates, the red sole signatures of Christian Louboutin footwear, the shape of the Zippo cigarette lighter and the Louis Vuitton Epi leather design were all found to meet the standards of distinctiveness under Indian trademark law, and recognised as trademarks. Â? = Unregistered makrs are entitled to protection under the tort of

]

Â&#x161;

Â&#x201C;Â&#x201D; >Â&#x201C;?

#

 Z [

]

through evidence of reqputation and goodwill; priority inuse and adoption form the criteria for ownership. A large number of foreign unregistered marks that have a transborder reputation in India have been protected by the courts.

7

A registration process without objections from the Trade Marks Registry and opposition from any third parties can take 12*Â&#x192;

$

$

#

lowing steps: a. Filing of application, where the applcant indicates its intention

Z

$

Y

H

°

under grounds of absolute and relative refusal, if any, which can be contested by the applicant within one month of issuance of the report;

] H

°

applicant, the mark proceeds to publication in the Trade Marks Journal within six months of a written reply or hearing of the applicant;

Â&#x2030; H

may oppose the registration of the mark on grounds laid down in the statute. The Trade Marks Registry takes up the opposion for hearing, depending on its roster and backlog of pending cases;

B ° H

mark is unopposed, it proceeds towards registration. Alternatively, the application is rejected upon a successful oppositon;

$ B H

Z

lenged by an aggrieved party and/or cancelled by the registrar on the grounds of being wrongly granted or wrongly remaining on the register, or of non-use within a prescribed period under the statute.

All orders of the Registrar of Trade Marks are appealable to the Intellectual property Appellate Board. "

7

= Section 47 of the Trade Marks Act provides for the removal of the trademark from the register of trademarks on the ground

Z

$

$

25

*/2%$/ )2&86

$

$

the mark.

After years of fumbling, adapting, learning and accumulating

Â&#x2021;

$nally managing to set up a complete legal system for the protection of intellectual property (IP) rights.

In order to bring its legislation up to an internatinal standard, China has participated in most of the international treaties on trademarks, including the Paris Convention for the Protection of Intellectual Property, the World Trade Organizationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Agreement on Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS), the Madrid Agreement Concerning the Internatinal Registration of Marks, etc.

7

The Trademark Law is the backbone to the system, and needs to be construed with the Implementing Regulation of the Trademark Law, the Regulations for Recognition and Protection of Well Known Trademarks, the Measures for the Implementation of the Madrid Agreement Concerning the International Registration of Marks, etc.

Apart from these, the Supreme Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Court (SPC) has issued several judicial interpretations on issues concerning the trial of

Z

#

Z

$

Â&#x2021;

increased, year after year.

Recently, China enacted the third revision of its Trademark Law,

* Â Â&#x201C;F*Â&#x2013;

#

new Trademark Law, addresses the major points on the registration and protection of a trademark in China.

= Q 5

is raised on absolute grounds, it may be raised by â&#x20AC;&#x153;any personâ&#x20AC;?.

The main change introduced by the law is that when an opposition is rejected by the CTMO, the trademark is immediately ap

$

tion to delcare the trademark invalid with the TRAB. Before the recent revision, the opponent could appeal to the TRAB for revision of the decision. This is now not possible.

This is not without serious concern, in particular in view of the SPC opinions regarding the assessment of the similarily between two marks. According to the SPC, when assessing the similarity of two tademarks the judge should take into account the reputation of both trademarks: the â&#x20AC;&#x153;seniorâ&#x20AC;? registered trademark and the â&#x20AC;&#x153;juniorâ&#x20AC;? trademark. Therefore, even through the junior trademark is subject to invalidation, it is allowed during the procedure to develop a reputation, which the judge will take into account in the decision.

Reputation gained overseas Whether the reputation gained overseas can be considered to support an opposition is still not clear, as the law does not specify.

In a 2005 case (Ferrero), the SPC admitted that reputation gained outside of China could support a case based on the reputation of a product (under the Anti-unfair Competition Law).

-

7 Both registered and unregistered marks can be assigned and transmitted on the condition that they do not create multiple exclusive rights, and all such transactions are governed broadly by the J Â&#x2021;

[

$

[ [

mark is assignable in respect of all or a part of the goods or services for which the mark is registered.

" =

Related rights

The revised PRC Trademark Law removes the restriction of the word â&#x20AC;&#x153;visualâ&#x20AC;? and gives and example of a non-visual sign:sounds.

This word is followed by â&#x20AC;&#x153;etc.â&#x20AC;? which implies that the door is theoretically open for other non-visual signs.

In India, a single object/good/service can be the subject matter of multiple forms of IP protection, subject to the following express exclusions for overlapping subject matter:

# $

Z

artisitic works; b. If an object is a registered design or is mass produced, the copyright in the design is extinguished.

Prohibition of registration and use in bad faith The law introduces â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;good faithâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as a general principle in article 7.1: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The application for registration and the use of a trademark shall be made ingood faith.â&#x20AC;? Article 15.2 provides a practical example of bad faith: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Where the applicant has contractual or business contacts, or other relations other than (being the agent) with the

Z

$ Z

Â?

Z

$

the applied trademark shall not be registered.â&#x20AC;?

7 * <

z

In order to shorten the registration process and the various trademark-related procedures before the China Trademark Of$ >Â&#x2021;#Â Â&#x2030;?

#

Z

[ ° =

(TRAB), the law introduces time limits, such as nine months for the

Z

H

H

# [=

*Â&#x201C;

H

H

an opposition.

Online issues J

$ Â&#x152; Â&#x17E;

lution policy, which enumerates the terms and conditions applying to disputes pertaining to â&#x20AC;&#x153;.inâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;.co.inâ&#x20AC;? domain names. Indian courts have recognized and innovatively tackled issues of domain

Â&#x160; Z

Z

etc., by the creative intersection of domain name policy and the law of trademarks.

Trans-border reputation The concept of trans-border or spillover reputation of foreign trademarks was recognized by Indian courts in the early stages of the development of Indian trademark law, as far back as the 1980s.

The essence of the concept is captured in section 35 of the Trade Marks Act, and serves to highlight that brand goodwill and reputation are adequately protected.

| = - =

In order to limit the number of oppositions, the law provides that oppostions may only be raised by â&#x20AC;&#x153;a prior right owner or interested partyâ&#x20AC;? if based on relative grounds. However if an opposition

When a mark is recognized as â&#x20AC;&#x153;well knownâ&#x20AC;? in India, it enjoys protection against deceptively similar or confusing marks thatmay be applied for across all classes of goods and services. The criteria

26

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

*/2%$/ )2&86 for a mark to be recognized as well known by a court of law have been laid down in section 11 (6) of the Trade Marks Act. The Trade Marks Registry provides a register of well known marks on its website.

7 Q |

There are no procedures where the Ministry of Commerce and J

Z

$

Z

Â&#x160;

¢

Z

# Â&#x160;

Â&#x2021;

"

] \

and Trademarks comes under the purview of the Department of Industrial Policy and Promotion, within the Ministry of Commerce

J

J

stituted before law courts. *

Â&#x2C6;

Z

*F<

#

Marks Act, and a criminal action may be instituted against the Infringer or counterfeiter. Criminal actions may be instituted in the following ways:

]

H

the police must obtain a clearance from the Registrar of Trade Marks. After clearance, the police may raid the premises of the infringer and seize goods, following procedures under the crimi

$

Y

Â&#x2021;

Â?

H

ing entertained by the magistrateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court, the judge may order search, seizure and/or investigation of the alleged infringer.

Thereafter, charges are framed and the matter proceeds to trial for conviction of the infringer.

Cause lists, case status, orders and judgments are available on the Internet and accessible to litigants, advocates and the public. Delhi High Court has also begun digitizing entire case records and documents for easy access by judges and litigants. ; =

Measures such as â&#x20AC;&#x153;fast track trialsâ&#x20AC;? and recording of evidence by way of videoconferencing are hallmarks of IP litigation at Delhi High Court. Fast track trials envisage completion of various stages

$

court. There have been instances where strict timelines have been

$

ing. | = - = For recognition of the well known status of a trademark, the law adds a condition: it may only be determined â&#x20AC;&#x153;where the recognition decision is a necessary fact of the caseâ&#x20AC;?. The reason be

$

J

Z

trademarks should be recognized on a case-by-case basis and follows the â&#x20AC;&#x153;principle of passive protectionâ&#x20AC;?.

On the other hand, the law introduces a very welcome prohibition concerning well known trademarks: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The manufacturer or operator is not allowed to use the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;well known trademarkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; expression on the commodities, the commodity packages, the containers, or in advertisement, exhibitions or other commercial activitiesâ&#x20AC;?.

This should discourage lots of applications and might facilitate a little the recognition of foreign trademarks that used to account for around 1% of the well known trademarks recognized by the Chinese authorities.

z 7

=

The Intellectual Property Rights (Imported Goods) Enforcement Rules were promulgated by the central government in 2007.

Under these rules, a right holder can register its work, invention, trademark, etc., with the customs authorities and request that the authorities seize any goods deemed to be infringing. The au

Â&#x160;

defend itself. Upon a determination that the goods detained or seized have infringed IP rights, the customs authority is authorized to destroy the goods.

Where a registered trademark is licensed, the licensor should record the trademark licence with the CTMO, and the trademark Â&#x160;

Z

J

is not recorded, it cannot be claimed against a third party of good

J

$

and not the entire agreement, needs to be recorded.

Q @ -

- = J Â?

$

fringement of IP rights. India has four high courts with original side °

\ Â Â&#x; Z

Â

H

$

district courts.

On average, Delhi High Court handles 600-800 lawsuits a year, which is 70% of the IP-related litigation in India.

35 " Infringement actions are heard by general law courts and there are no special IP courts in India. The Intellectual Property Appellate Board, however, hears and decides appeals from the order or decision of the Registrar of Trade Marks, which until 2003 was under the jurisdiction of the high courts. The appellate board can also en

$

Z

Z Â&#x17D; Â&#x;

H

$

ZÂ&#x203A;

° H

J#

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

Enforcement : Where authorities step in

7 The law aims to raise the level of penalties against infringers,

$

ers. *

Criminal procedure only applies in cases of counterfeiting. i.e. where the trademark is identical, or almost identical. In addition,

H Â = Â&#x192;F FFF >Â&#x2122; Ă?Ă&#x17D; FFF?

for on trademark or RMB 30,000 if several trademarks are counterfeited. The procedure usually starts with an investigation and a raid conducted by the Public Security Bureau (police). Customs and the Administration for industry and Commerce will also transfer cases to the Public Security Bureau for investigation when large quantities are involved. [

$

to the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Procuratorate for public prosecution. All along, the trademark owner needs to be active and assist the police with all the necessary information gathered through its own prior investigation. It is then advisable to follow up the case before the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Procuratorate, and be present during the criminal hearing

27

*/2%$/ )2&86 before the court.

Trademark holders can also directly initiate criminal proceedings before a court without the involvement of the public security organs (police) or the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Procuratorate. However, this direct procedure is extremely rare and, in any event, when the case is considered as presenting serious danger to public order and state interest, it should be initiated by the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Procuratorate.

$ J

Z

trademarks should be recognized on a case-by-case basis and follows the â&#x20AC;&#x153;principle of passive protectionâ&#x20AC;?.

# ]

Z

$

B

$

â&#x20AC;&#x153;seriousâ&#x20AC;? or the sale are â&#x20AC;&#x153;largeâ&#x20AC;? or imprisonment of three to seven years where the conditions are deemed â&#x20AC;&#x153;extremely seriousâ&#x20AC;? or the sales are â&#x20AC;&#x153;hugeâ&#x20AC;?.

On the other hand, the law introduces a very welcome prohibition concerning well known trademarks: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The manufacturer or operator is not allowed to use the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;well known trademarkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; expression on the commodities, the commodity packages, the containers, or in advertisements, exhibitions or other commercial activitiesâ&#x20AC;?.

This should discourage lots of applications and might facilitate, a little, the recognition of foreign trademarks that used to account for around 1% of the well known trademarks recognized by the Chinese authorities.

*

=

J Â&#x2021;

Â&#x203A;

of IP rights, during both import and export. There are two ways

H

and ask customs to detain a suspicious shipment, or record oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right with the General Administration of Customs in order to ben $

Â&#x160;

Where a registered trademark is licensed, the licensor should record the trademark licence with the CTMO, and the trademark Â&#x160;

Z

J

is not recorded, it cannot be claimed against a third party of good

J

$

and not the entire agreement, needs to be recorded.

One of the most controversial issues is the situation of original equipment manufacturers. i.e. where the entire production of goods made in China is exported. In recent years, some jurisdictions have decided that with goods bearing a trademark that belongs to a third party in China, the fact that they are exported and therefore not sold on the Chinese market means there is no infringement committed in China.

7 Q |

J

$

H

]Â&#x2021;

an analysis of this issue and is expected to deliver a decision in the

]

H

protect IP rights on export.

Q @ -

- =

35 " Â&#x2021;

Z

$

IP tribunals of the intermediate peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s courts, or in some jurisdictions by basic courts designated by the SPC. Administrative litiga H

# [= H

IP tribunal of the intermediate peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court in Beijing.

The SPC is conducting research and will, in the near future, decide whether and how specialized IP courts could be set up with total jurisdiction over all IP rights matters.

Pre-trial measures Injunctions and pre-trial property preservation: An IP rights owner who can prove that failure to stop an infringement promptly would cause irreparable damage to his/her legitimate rights and in

$

with the peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court to obtain an order for immediate cessation of the infringing activity. The IP rights owner may also apply for

$

°

bond.

Pre-trial evidence preservation: Where the evidence risks being destroyed, or it would be impossible to obtain it later, the trademark registrant or any interested party may. | - = For recognition of the well known status of a trademark, the law adds a condition: it may only be determined â&#x20AC;&#x153;where the recognition decision is a necessary fact of the case.â&#x20AC;? The reason be-

28

7 The law aims to raise the level of penalties against infringers,

$

ers. *

Criminal procedure only applies in cases of counterfeiting, i.e. where the trademark is identical, or almost identical. In addition,

H Â = Â&#x192;F FFF >Â&#x2122; Ă?Ă&#x17D; FFF?

for one trademark or RMB 30,000 if several trademarks are counterfeited.

The procedure usually starts with an investigation and a raid conducted by the Public Security Bureau (police). Customs and the Administration for Industry and Commerce will also transfer cases to the Public Security Bureau for investigation when large quantities are involved. [

$

to the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Procuratorate for public prosecution. All along, the trademark owner needs to be active and assist the police with all the necessary information gathered through its own prior investigation. It is then advisable to follow up the case before the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Procuratorate, and be present during the criminal hearing before the court.

Trademark holders can also directly initiate criminal proceedings before a court without the involvement of the public security organs (police) or the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Procuratorate. However, this direct procedure is extremely rare and, in any event, when the case is considered as presenting serious danger to public order and state interests, it should be initiated by the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Procuratorate. #

Z

$

B

$

are â&#x20AC;&#x153;seriousâ&#x20AC;? or the sales are â&#x20AC;&#x153;largeâ&#x20AC;?, or imprisonment of three to seven years where the conditions are deemed â&#x20AC;&#x153;extremely seriousâ&#x20AC;? or the sales are â&#x20AC;&#x153;hugeâ&#x20AC;?. *

J Â&#x2021;

Â&#x203A;

of IP rights, during both import and export. There are two ways

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

*/2%$/ )2&86

H

and ask customs to detain a suspicious shipment, or record oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right with the General Administration of Customs in order to ben $

Â&#x160;

Â&#x2021;

ness, or works for gain. These provisions are crucial given the na

Â&#x203A;

institution of an infringement action.

One of the most controversial issues is the situation of original equipment manufacturers, i.e. where the entire production of goods made in China is exported. In recent years, some jurisdictions have decided that with goods bearing a trademark that belongs to a third party in China, the fact that they are exported and therefore not sold on the Chinese market means there is no infringement committed in China.

q

J

$

H

]Â&#x2021;

an analysis of this issue and is expected to deliver a decision in the

]

H

protect IP rights on export.

Q @ -

- =

35 "

Courts in India may entertain suits based on the â&#x20AC;&#x153;reasonable apprehension of injury or harmâ&#x20AC;? held by a right holder. As recently as November 2013, Delhi High Court held that the degree of apprehension necessary to grant a permanent injunction in a suit based on such apprehension can only be determined after a trial has been conducted in the matter.

In the meantime, in patent suits, where there is no presumption of validity and the defendants are yet to commence their infringing activity, a status quo order has been granted on numerous occasions. In trademark matters, Delhi High Court has passed numerous orders grating interim injunctions restraining any possible infringing activity of the defendants during the pendency of the suit.

Â&#x2021;

Z

$

IP tribunals of the intermediate peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s courts, or in some jurisdictions by basic courts designated by the SPC. Administrative litiga H

# [= H

IP tribunal of the intermediate peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court in Beijing.

Â&#x17D; q

The SPC is conducting research and will, in the near future, decide whether and how specialized IP courts could be set up with total jurisdiction over all IP rights matters.

+

Pre-trial measures Injunctions and pre-trial property preservation : An IP rights owner who can prove that failure to stop and infringement promptly would cause irreparable damage to his/her legitimate rights and

$

tion with the peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court to obtain an order for immediate cessation of the infringing activity. The IP rights owner may also apply

$

°

a bond.

Pre-trial evidence preservation : Where the evidence risks being destroyed or it would be impossible to obtain it later, the trademark registrant or any interested party may.

An innovative feature of fast track trials is the appointment of

°

Â&#x160;

of the court, who are assigned the responsibility to record evidence within the prescribed period, which may be as short as three to six months. Recording of evidence by court commissioners allows parties to conduct the trial at their convenience, instead of relying on the roster of sitting judges for available dates.

7 Delhi High Court has also allowed recording of evidence primar

H

#

is especially relevant and useful for foreign litigants and/or rights holders who are unable to travel to India to depose their evidence.

The court has developed a robust set of guidelines to safeguard the

J

can reasonably expect its lawsuit to conclude within three years. ^

Certain IP statutes have given due recognition to the predicament of a right holder chasing after pirates. Section 62(2) of the Copyright Act, 1957, and section 134 (2) of the Trade Marks Act

B

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

Indian courts are poised to explore new paradigms of protection. As pirates get more creative, colours, shapes, celebrity rights and internet service provider liability regarding sponsored â&#x20AC;&#x153;adwordsâ&#x20AC;? have come under the scanner.

Damages awarded in India are usually compensatory, but can also be punitive or exemplary. The culture of awarding damages began to be seen in 2005, and now damages to the equivalent of up to US$100,000 have been awarded.

5 q Indian courts are inclined to grant preliminary injunctions against alleged infringers or counterfeiters in lawsuits for infringe B

$

likelihood of irreparable injury if such a relief was denied.

Anton Piller orders #

$

J

racy of broadcasts by unnamed cable operators, gradually including the rampant piracy of software and counterfeiting of luxury brand products, until the present, where courts issue commissions for search and seizure of infringing goods belonging to named and/ or unnamed defendants for a variety of infringement actions.

Over the years, tangible successes have been achieved in the anti-counterfeiting campaigns of brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Chanel, Cartier, Microsoft, etc., leading to timely seizures of goods of unnamed counterfeiters and sending a strong message to the market, categorically indicating low tolerance of counterfeits.

John Doe orders Popularized as Ashok Kumar orders in India, Indian courts have gradually come to pass interim injunctions against unnamed defendants in recognition of the rampant counterfeiting prevalent in

#

Â&#x203A;

Z

even the covert infringers who would escape detection in the absence of such blanket protection. |

Orders of various governmental authorities under the Indian J ]

Â&#x2030;Â&#x160;

29

*/2%$/ )2&86 seeking extraordinary remedies such as writs of mandamus and certiorari. The high courts in India, capable of entertaining such petitions, have over the years recognized the urgency and importance of IP to the business of the rights holder. Numerous writs $

thorities have been directed to remedy and arbitrary, unreasoned or capricious orders.

Alternative dispute resolution Alternative dispute resolution (ADR) mechanisms such as mediation, conciliation, etc., have received statutory recognition under Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Code of Civil Procedure, 1908, under section 89 and order 10 rule 1, after the code underwent dramatic amendments in 2002.

These provisions cast a duty on the court to encourage settlement between parties by means of ADR methods. In 2006, judges were trained and exposed to progressive models of early neutral evaluation, plea bargaining and mediation.

The Delhi High Court Mediation Centre is estimated to have

Â&#x201D;FÂ&#x2022;

$

ferred to it daily. The experience of rights holders has been that as the courtsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; awareness and expertise increase, defendants are

Before instituting legal proceedings, request he peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court to take measures to preserve evidence.

5 ~Â&#x20AC; " 7 7 The new law prescribes in article 63.2 that the judge may order the defendant to submit elements of evidence, such as account books, that are in his or her possession and â&#x20AC;&#x153;where the infringer refuses to provide such information or provides false information, the peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court may determine the amount of compensation at its discretion by taking into account the claims and the evidence submitted by the infringed.â&#x20AC;? ?

-

The revised Civil Procedure Law introduces the concept of â&#x20AC;&#x153;person with expertiseâ&#x20AC;? in article 79, which provides that upon request of a party, the peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s court may notify a â&#x20AC;&#x153;person with expertiseâ&#x20AC;?

H

Â&#x152; Â&#x17E;

Â&#x152;

Â&#x17E;

Â&#x152;°

Â&#x17E; H

Â&#x152; $ Â&#x17E;

Â&#x152; $ Â&#x17E;

a technical issue.

In a recent guideline, the Beijing Higher Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Court provides that in order to bring evidence of likelihood of confusion between two marks, both parties may submit survey reports concerning their position in the market. +

#

#

Z Â&#x20AC;

$

for trademark infringement by specifying, in article 63, the calculation standards for civil compensation in trademark infringement cases. Article 63 is a three-part system: 1.

The calculation methods are in the following order:

Âł

from the infringement. Âł

$

fringement; â&#x20AC;˘ a reasonable multiple of the royalty that the infringed registered trademark might have earned, which is a welcome new provision; 2. When the circumstances are serious, a amount of compensation

30

not more than three times but not less than the amount calculated by the preceding approaches; and 3. A statutory damage, when no calculation is possible with a maximum of RMB3 million.

Strengthen the obligation to use #

$

Â&#x152; Â&#x160;

Z

commodities, commodity packages or containers, as well as commodity exchange documents or using trademarks in advertisement, exhibitions and other commercial activities to distinguish the origin of the commodities.â&#x20AC;? * 4 7 Â&#x17D;

Q If a trademark is not used for â&#x20AC;&#x153;three consecutive

$

#

Z Â&#x2030;Â&#x160;

istered trademark.â&#x20AC;?

No Compensation : If the trademark owner cannot prove having used the trademark within the last three years â&#x20AC;&#x153;the accused infringer shall not be held liable for compensationâ&#x20AC;?

Risk Evaluation requires an understanding of the changing situations and circumstances in which company conduct business In June 2013, exceptionally heavy rain in the northern India state of Uttarakhand washed away roads and bridges. Around 5,000 fatalities occurred, many thousands were left stranded, and the cost to the local economy was colossal.

As most commentators pointed out, this was a disaster waiting to happen. Yet no steps had been taken to prevent it. Worse still, as the events unfolded it was evident that the state machinery had no quick response plan in place.

Â&#x2122; Z

$

power and tourism. Companies operating in these areas needed

Â&#x160;

Z

eventualities, but most report suggest that they didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t.

One study calculated the loss to Uttarakhandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tourism indus

Â&#x203A;

Â&#x201C;F*<

*Â&#x201C;

>Â&#x2122; Ă?Â&#x201C;FF lion). It appears that the state economy will take years to recover.

While in past years tens of thousands of pilgrims travelled to the main temples each May for ceremonies to mark the beginning of the pilgrim season, there were reports that only around a hundred pilgrims would travel this year to the opening of the temple at Kedarnath, which is one of four major Hindu sites in Uttarakhand.

While the state and central governments shoulder some of the

H

H

secure their business against risks posed by natural disasters and other untoward incidents.

This article discusses how to identify risks and how to prevent

Z $

$

terms of employees (human capital), material resources, inventory, infrastructure, etc.

= In todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s environment businesses are often exposed to previously unknown risks that know no national boundaries and may be Â&#x160;

J

Z

posed by environmental disasters as described above, companies

Z

Â&#x203A; -

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

*/2%$/ )2&86 tuations and downturns in the global economy, fast-spreading infectious diseases, cyber warfare, business espionage, etc.

As pointed out by Pinkerton and the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI) in India Risk Survey 2014: Â&#x152;

Z

Z

$

way into the corporate sector owing to advancement in technology and rise of competition. These risks are apparent through the failures of some of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s popular brands and the multitude of scams that have caused losses amounting to billions.â&#x20AC;? # ] Z

H Â&#x2C6;JÂ&#x2021;Â&#x2021;J

$

Z

Among 12 prominent risks, â&#x20AC;&#x153;corruption, bribery and corporate fraudsâ&#x20AC;? emerged as number one in 2014, up from number four in the 2013 survey.

The change is attributed to the unraveling of scams and frauds in both the public and private sectors.

At number two, â&#x20AC;&#x153;strikes, closures and unrestâ&#x20AC;?, the number one risk in 2013, continues to command serious concern. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Political and governance instabilityâ&#x20AC;? was the number three risk in 2014, down from number two a year earlier, suggesting that the current elections are of ongoing concern to corporate India. < =

It is necessary to monitor risk and trends on a regular basis and

Z

$cant changes in the business landscape.

Risk entails uncertainty and unless the factors that trigger the risk are understood, analyzed and given proper attention by com Â? $

°

#

preciate risk can also impact the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reputation and competitive position.

Managing a companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s risk is about applying policies and procedures in order to: (a) identify, analyse and assess risks, including identifying the source of the risk and anticipating its impact; (b) determine the degree of exposure to risk that the company can accommodate; (c) formulate a plan to mitigate the risks; (d) identify and implement strategies to avoid the risks and any resultant litigation, loss of reputation or injury; and (e) regularly reassess and adjust strategies to deal with changes in risk levels.

Strategies devised need to consider risks that are relevant to the particular sector in which the company operates.

* 5 Z

Â&#x2021;

$

as is periodic training on risk management trends and compliance for all concerned.

The following pointers can assist companies to put together an

Z

Â&#x2039;

â&#x20AC;˘ Build the annual risk assessment exercise into the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s compliance programme. â&#x20AC;˘ Put in place stringent protocols for screening all new business partners and third party agents. â&#x20AC;˘ Update policies, procedures and training material based on changes in risk perceptions. â&#x20AC;˘ Establish a regular monitoring system to spot problems and address them.

All of this entails inherent challenges. A Global Emerging Risks

Â&#x2C6; # Â&#x2039; Â&#x152;J

Â&#x160;

identify and analyze emerging risks, in large part because of their inherent characteristicsâ&#x20AC;?.

The survey found that while decision makers perceive emerg

Z

$

Z

derstood. In addition, while the consequence of such risks cannot

$

Â&#x152;

projecting their relative frequencies, their probability distributions over time, as well as the severity of the resulting losses and other ¢

Â&#x17E;

#

the challenge is to establish causality between the source of the emerging risk and its consequences.

New Millennium has changed business style, if we compare last few centuries will observe that every century has its own opportunities, risks, disasters and only people who have been careful observant could make their mark.

About Author Mr. Arvind Sinha is B.Tech from Bhiwani and MMS from Bombay University have been involved with various industries in India and abroad for last thirty years. He has been very actively involved with World Bank and IMF for last many years for various projects and

[

Â&#x2021; $

ment his studies and project work.

He is currently Chief Advisor and CEO of Business Advisors Group which is a leading sourcing company for Relief Supplies globally and also the content creator and provider for critical studies and management issues. His study on human rights in jails, was widely appreciated and heading for a Doctorate consideration by leading UK Management Institute.

He has presented more than 150 papers so far in various leading conference all over the world and more than 11 subjects including Art History, Defense Forces, Critical Management, Disaster Man

Â

Â&#x2021; Â&#x203A; Â&#x2C6;

Â&#x2021; Â&#x203A; Â&#x2C6;

ous defense forces all over the world.

He is an Art and Antique collector and three of his records are listed in Guinness World Record.

to your being. It is continuously giving you hints; it is a still, small voice. It â&#x20AC;&#x153;doesListen not shout at you, that is true. And if you are a little silent you will start feeling your way. Be the person you are. Never try to be another, and you will become mature. Maturity is accepting the responsibility of being oneself, whatsoever the cost.

Risking all to be oneself, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what maturity is all about. Ă&#x2018;

Â&#x2030;

â&#x20AC;?

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

31

&27721 5(3257 3{+3 Q Â&#x201A;

'Â&#x201E;Â&#x17D;(Â&#x2013;Â&#x17D;'(!Â&#x201E;Â&#x192;

Mr. Manish Daga !"

# $%&% ' (' )

As per IMD, Rainfall over 1st June 2016 to 23rd July 2016 was 2% higher than normal. Most of the cotton producing states have received normal rainfall. " °

$

zone with about 40% lower rainfall till date. Rainfall in Gujarat being the lowest in India, the situation will become very alarming if there is no substantial rain within the next few days. This fact is

Â&#x203A;

port of Gujarat.

CCI Arrivals 33.33 million " Q Â&#x201A;

'Â&#x2013;Â&#x17D;(Â&#x2013;Â&#x17D;'(!Â&#x201E;Â&#x192; Sowing report: Sowing of cotton in 2016-17 (dt. 16.07.2016) is estimated at 7.23 million hectors as compared to 8.98 million hectares last year.

As per Agriculture ministry, Government of Gujaratâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest reports, cotton sowing area in Gujarat till 25th July 2016 is 2.04 million hectares. It was 2.42 million hectares on 25th July 2015, lower by 15.91% compared to last year. 3 year average sowing in Gujarat is 2.82 million hectares.

Most of the trade people and agencies believe that sowing will decrease by 1015%.Considering the high input cost of cotton cultivation compared to low market rates and fall in yield due to devastating

Z Â&#x203A;

and pink bollworm, the farmers will prefer oil seed, maize & pulses rather than cotton.

There is discontent and doubt about the Bt seeds in the minds of the cotton farmers. At one time Bt seeds were available at a pre

Z

count. + < = Q

'Â&#x2013; ^ The domestic market which has witnessed an uninterrupted rise since the last 2 months saw a slight reversal in the last week.

32

#

Z

$

mills preferred to wait. The mills are expecting a major fall in the market while the cotton traders are of the opinion that the prices will not decrease as the current season stocks are very limited and the new season crop will be lower and late. * z Â? +

=

3 Q In its latest report, the Cotton Advisory Board (CAB) cut its 2015-16 crop estimate to a 5-year low of 33.8 million bales (170 kg) or 26.4 million (480-pound bales), down from USDAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 26.8 million bales. It seems like the USDA may have miscalculated Indian stocks by a wide margin. While everyone has been reducing ending stocks in India, the USDA increased the Z

*Â&#x2013; <

>*Â&#x201D;F Z ? # $

# Â?

Â&#x2021;[=

Â&#x2122; \[

Z #

$

stock estimates of CAB and the private trade which estimates unsold stock with traders below 2 million bales.

Meanwhile, the textile mills in India are facing a tough time due to a host of problems faced by the industry, including shortage of cotton. Weak demand and duty-free access or duty advantage for competing nations to major textile markets like the European Union and China have led to a decline in prices and a slowdown of exports. Chinese currency devaluation in August last has only added to mills problems. Many mills have resorted to importing cotton from countries like the US, W.Africa, E.Africa, Australia, Pakistan, etc. to cover their requirements for the next 3 months.

An excerpt of some mails of concerned M.D.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of leading Textile Mills: !Â&#x192; < % Â&#x2018;% = * - Â&#x201A;<%+%Â&#x192; < ?

3 > ed Dear Friends, In these times of distress and possibly the worst ever period for spinning industry (atleast seen by me), I thought I must share my mind.

J

Â&#x160;

over the last 2 years despite cotton prices being reasonably low due to a demand supply imbalance created out of new spinning mills coming up in some States (viable due to incentives rather than fundamentals) and slow demand locally due to two successive poor monsoons and overall subdued sentiments in the globe.

Exports have failed to cheer us up due to the disadvantage created

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

&27721 5(3257

by FTAs of our competitors with the big buying nations and we as usual not able to break any ice anywhere. 'Â&#x192; < % q

^ Â&#x201A;<%+%Â&#x192;

> Sharing some options which mills may consider to at least reduce the impact of the crisis.

If yarn is available or selling at cash loss position â&#x20AC;&#x201D; isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t it better to stock yarn instead of cotton?? Cotton can be stocked to push up prices, why canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t yarn be stocked!!! Why canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t we use our cotton limits for yarn?? If all mills decide to keep 15 days yarn stock â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it would have a double impact â&#x20AC;&#x201D; yarn prices would move up and mills would stock less cotton leading to less pressure on cotton demand. Spinners need to push their respective associations to knock at the Government door loudly and show them the truth. We need to de

$

rest of the Textile Chain - donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t support further investments but save those who are there. State Governments need to be approached by the Textile Ministry to cre

H "

cotton production, but are incentivising mills to come up.

A cautious cotton purchase and using the limits for stocking yarn till it reaches a reasonable level, could be the answer to save

Â&#x2122;

Z Â&#x203A;

but spinner stay muted and just looking in despair and complaining amongst themselves without taking any concrete action.

India is set to register its highest cotton imports in 2015-16 as domestic supplies have dwindled due to 2 consecutive drought years in many cotton growing centres. India is likely to import more than 1.5 million bales (of 170 kg) of cotton as against the previous highest import of 1.46 million bales in 2012-13.

YARN Cotton yarn prices have eased by INR 2-3/kg due to pressure of sale by yarn traders. Demand for yarn is diminishing due to no improvement in prices of grey fabric and shutdown of many power looms in leading weaving centres like Bhiwandi, Ichalkaranji, Malegaon (Maharashtra) and Erode, Salem (Tamil Nadu). The shutdown is due to under cost of fabrics and high yarn prices for weavers. #

domestic market.

India exported 101.8 million kg of spun yarns worth US$283 million or INR1,881 crore in June 2016 at an average realisation of Â&#x2122; Ă?Â&#x201C; Â&#x201D;Ă&#x17D;

Z #

$

month a year ago. Export volume was down 12% YoY and value de *Â&#x201D;Â&#x2022;

Â&#x2122; Ă?

#

Â&#x203A;

global textile industry in this part of the year.

-YNFX 3 < = Q

The question puzzling the textile industry worldwide is, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Will cotton continue to rise due to unfavorable weather outlook or recede on subdued demand?â&#x20AC;?

Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plantings of cotton are at 7 year low and dry weather conditions raise concerns about cotton crops in China, US and Egypt.

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

Lower plantings are expected in Egypt and Egyptian farmers are expected to produce about 4 million bales. The weather has been unfavorable for cotton in China recently, and hot and dry conditions in US cotton growing areas in parts of Texas have raised concerns about US cotton crop as well.

5 = Q

Cotton prices have reached an 18-month high following reports that cotton production in the country shrunk by over 30 % last year. Last year, cotton production was a mere 9.7 million bales compared to a demand of 14 million bales. This year, the government is predicting 14.1 million bales of production, but unfavourable conditions during this monsoon are likely to prove that the target is over estimated. Pakistan has missed the cotton sowing target by a wide margin of 21 % in the current crop season.

Cotton area is forecast to fall to 2.50m hectares, down 300,000 hectares to lowest level since last 30 years.

Bangladesh: Mills have been buying a lot of Australian cotton for their requirements of quality cotton. Most mills are eagerly waiting for the new season in India to begin so as to cover cotton in quantity.

A report in Fashionating World states that Bangladeshâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s garment industry has seen hit by riots, labour unrest, power shortages and safety scandals and the industry bounced back each time.

But, after the recent Gulshan massacre, many have lost faith in its ability to weather the latest crisis and continue to grow.

China: It seems the USDA has underestimated Chinese cotton consumption.

China has added almost 10 million spindles in Xinxiang in the last 2 years. Chinese mills continue to pick all available reserve stocks with base price going higher every day. Chinese Govt. may extend the selling period upto September with the same daily volumes. Already 1.57 million tons have been sold via auctions against an estimated annual demand of 7 million tons. There will be strong demand for reserve and domestic cotton as imports have dropped by nearly 50%.

China Cotton Information Network newsletter reported on July Â&#x201C;Â&#x192;

<FFÂ&#x2013;Â&#x2020; F*<

traded with a turnover ratio of 100% at an average transaction price of 15,170 yuan / ton. Highest price of the sale was 16,000 yuan / ton, while the lowest price was 14,470 yuan / ton.

REPORTS: USDA: All cotton planted area for 2016 is estimated at 10.0 million acres, 17 % above last year. Upland area is estimated at 9.82 million

33

&27721 5(3257 acres, up 17 percent from 2015.

American Pima area is estimated at 199,000 acres, up 26 percent from 2015.

While global area under cotton is expected to contract by one per cent to 31 million hectares in 2016-17, the area in India is expected to expand by one per cent to 12 million hectares in 2016-17, the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) has stated. "

°

$

cent to 735 kg per hectare, which would cause production to in

$

Â&#x201C;<

J J

tion is expected to increase by eight per cent to 6.3 million tons and better monsoons may boost yield by six per cent to 521 kg per hectare, though pest pressure remains a concern.

less attractive cotton prices and overly wet soil conditions preventing planting in some areas, cotton area in the United States is expected to expand by 5% to 3.4 million hectares, and production could increase by 14% to 3.2 million tons. In 2015/16, Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s average yield declined by 32% to 528 kg/ha while production fell to 1.5

Z

$

$

Â

Z

to help combat the pes, and as a result, yield is expected to partially recover by 25% to 662 kg/ha in 2016/17. Nevertheless, cotton area is likely to contract by 5% to 2.7 million hectares as farmers switch to competing crops with better returns, and production is projected to increase by 19% to 1.8 million tons.

Global consumption is forecast to remain at 23.6 million tons

Â&#x201C;F*Â&#x2020;B*Â&#x201D;

$

Z

-

According to ICAC, in 2015-16, world cotton production fell by 17 % to 21.7 million tons, the lowest volume since 2003-04. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Low international cotton prices at planting time led to a 9 % contraction in area to 31.1 million hectares and the world average yield decreased by nine per cent to 699 kg per hectare. However, while area is expected to contract by one per cent to 31 million hectares in 2016-17, the average yield is projected to improve by 5 % to 735 kg per hectare, which would cause production to increase by 5 %to 23 million tons,â&#x20AC;? ICAC stated.

As against India, cotton area in China is projected to decline by 10 % to 3.1 million hectares due to high production costs and reduced government support, and production is forecast to decrease by 10 % to 4.7 million tons.

On the other hand, after contracting by 14 % to 3.3 million hectares in 2015-16 due to less attractive cotton prices and overly wet soil conditions preventing planting in some areas, cotton area in the United States is expected to expand by 5 % to 3.4 million hectares, and production could increase by 14 % to 3.2 million tons.

Meanwhile, highlighting global trends on mill use of cotton, the ICAC report stated that mill use was likely to grow by 11 per cent to 1.2 million tons in Vietnam and by 10 % to 1.2 million tons in Bangladesh, the two leading garment exporters.

However, despite declining demand for imports of cotton yarn

by China in 2015-16, mill use in India is expected to recover by 3% to 5.4 million tons and in Pakistan by 1% to 2.2 million tons. Further, while mill use remains stagnant in 2016-17, world cotton trade volume may increase by 1%to 7.4 million tons.

ICAC: z Â&#x2122;

z * 5

'(!Â&#x201E;9!Â&#x2013; In 2015/16, world cotton production fell by 17% to 21.7 million tons, the lowest volume since 2003/04. Low international cotton prices at planting time led to a 9% contraction in area to 31.1 million hectares and the world average yield decreased by 9% to 699 kg/ ha. However, while area is expected to contract by 1% to 31 million hectares in 2016/17, the average yield is projected to improve by 5% to 735 kg/ha, which would cause production to increase by 5% to 23 million tons. Cotton area in India is expected to expand by 1% to 12 million hectares in 2016/17, and production to increase by 8% to 6.3 million tons. Better monsoon weather may boost yield by 6% to 521 kg/ha, though pest pressure remains a concern. Cotton area in China is projected to decline by 10% to 3.1 million hectares due to high production costs and reduced government support, and production is forecast to decrease by 10% to 4.7 million tons.

After contracting by 14% to 3.3 million hectares in 2015/16 due to

34

tractive. Consumption in China is projected to decline by 5% decline to 6.8 million tons. However, mill use is likely to grow by 11% to 1.2 million tons in Vietnam and by 10% to 1.2 million tons in Bangladesh.

Despite declining demand for imports of cotton yarn by China in 2015/16, mill use in India is expected to recover by 3% to 5.4 million tons and in Pakistan by 1% to 2.2 million tons.

While mill use remains stagnant in 2016/17, world cotton trade volume may increase by 1% to 7.4 million tons. Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imports are expected to decrease by 8% to 947,000 tons as the Chinese government continues to restrict imports in order to reduce its sizeable stocks of cotton. However, imports outside of China are forecast to increase by 3% to 6.5 million tons. Given the larger exportable surplus available in the United States, exports are projected to increase by 18% to 2.3 million tons in 2016/17.

World stocks at the end of 2016/17 are projected to decrease by 5% to 19.46 million tons as mill use exceeds production by 930,000 tons. Ending stocks in the rest of the world are forecast to rise by 3% to 8.7 million tons, though the stock-to-use ratio outside of China would be similar to the 36% registered last season. * The price projection for 2015/16 is based on the ending stocks/ consumption ratio in the world-less-China in 2013/14 (estimate), in 2014/15 (estimate) and in 2015/16 (projection), on the ratio of Chinese net imports to world imports in 2014/15 (estimate) and 2015/16 > ° ? #

°

Â&#x201A;Â&#x192;Â&#x2022; $dence interval: 69 cts/lb to 71 cts/lb. ** The price projection for 2016/17 is based on the ending stocks/consumption ratio in the world-less-China in 2014/15 (estimate), in 2015/16 (projection) and in 2016/17 (projection), on the ratio of Chinese net imports to world imports in 2015/16 (projection) and 2016/17 (projection). The price projection is the mid-point

Â&#x201A;Â&#x192;Â&#x2022; $

Â&#x2039; Â&#x192;Ă&#x17D; B

Ă&#x17D;Â&#x2020; B

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

&27721 5(3257 " " =Q Rabobank is bearish on the short term outlook for cotton futures, saying a recent rally had outpaced the fundamentals of the market. Rallying cotton prices, and relatively stable yarn prices

$

maintain margins.

a rebate of INR 2 per unit.

1.

ICE COTTON

=

Z

$

$

Z

cluding heightened Chinese mill appetite, a bullish July Wasde, and concerns over Indian and Pakistan acreage. Global fundamentalsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;

$

´

supportive of prices, which are projected to trend up to 74 cents a pound by mid-2017.

Government Reports: y

Textile policy 2016:

Government of India recently announced a scheme targeting at its garment export to reach US$30 billion in 3 years.

Prime Minister Modiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s government recently unveiled a scheme with an annual outlay of about US$890 million (Rs.6000 crores) that will enable the country to reach US$30 billion in garment export in three years.

The scheme is labour friendly and empowers women and underprivileged working in the garment and allied sectors. In 3 years, the initiative is expected to attract additional investments worth US$11 billion and will provide 10 million new jobs.

As anticipated and communicated in last update, ICE Cotton has broken out on the upside from 58-68 range it traded for almost two years. Immediate logical targets of ICE Cotton Futures are around 78+. Uptrend in all time frames noted, buy on dips looks favorable. Traders can look to accumulate cotton in all bargains, shorts could be avoided. Key Supports 70.75-68.00-66.00, Key Resistances 75.14-78.00-79.00.

2.

MCX COTTON

An important aspect is that the garment exporting units will enjoy 5% additional duty drawback which will boost the competitiveness of Indian exports in foreign markets. This initiative will cost the government about US$800 (INR 5500 crores) annually. As a $

Z

that were not included in the computation before. "

$

scheme. According to the government, this scheme will result in social transformation by uplifting women in rural areas as 70% of the workforce in the garment sector is women.

-

Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA

COTTONGURUTM strongly feels that Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cotton production will determine itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chances of success in achieving the target of increasing textile exports by $30 billion over the next 3 years. y

]

# Â&#x2039;

Â

"

#

JÂ&#x2018; F Â&#x2013;F BÂ&#x2122;

%

JÂ&#x2018; F <F

30 /Unit IN Marathwada and INR 0.20/Unit in North Maharashtra. # #

"

-

? z =

Dr Mahapatra is having 30 years of experience in textile industries in India and abroad. He has worked in all big textile houses like Birla, Reliance, Raymond (Kenya), etc. In the year 2007 he was awarded C Col FSDC (UK) and C Text F.T.I. (Manchester). In the year 2008 he was awarded the F.T.A. from the Textile Association of India and F.I.C. from the Institution of Chemists, Kolkata. In the year 2009 he was awarded the F.I.E. from the Institution of Engineers (India). He has implemented many new technologies that have

$

Â

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

z

7 <*Â&#x161; * -

- Â&#x203A; <*Â&#x161; *

`)$Â&#x153;

q

` Â&#x203A;Â&#x203A; 7 =

7

<*Â&#x161; * ;

7 "

"

" -

= % +

?

'!(((Â&#x17D;'(`(( Â?

7 <*Â&#x161; *

=

"

7 % !Â&#x17E;Â&#x201E;(( -

Â&#x; 7

* %

'!(((Â&#x17D;'(#Â&#x201E;(Â&#x17D;'(``(

''Â&#x201E;)(Â&#x17D;'Â?``(Â&#x17D;')(((%

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, and The Fiber Society (USA). Presently he is working as Vice-President, Business Development, Colorant Ltd, Ahmadabad.

Dr. N.N. Mahapatra written various books on textile subjects, few of are as follows : 1. Textiles and Environment ISBN: 9789380308562 Price: Rs. 1995.00 2- ? +

+

ISBN: 9789331324191

Price: Rs. 1495.00

3- ?

5

ISBN: 9789331324856

Price: Rs. 1495.00

4- ?

ISBN: 9789331324498

Price: Rs. 1495.00

35

<$51 5(3257

YNFX EXPORT WATCH REPORT â&#x20AC;&#x201C; JULY 2016 Â&#x2018;_ÂĄ]Z Â&#x2018;ZÂĄÂ&#x152;Z¢[Â&#x2021;ZX Email Tel

: Vidya@ynfx.com : +91 22 66291122

Mobile : +91 9619 293725 3{+3 Â&#x20AC; Â&#x2018; >> Â&#x161;5 | 3{ ^Â?{ ; !# < { @ Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s merchandise exportrecorded a positive growthin June Â&#x201C;F*Â&#x2020;

$

*Ă&#x17D;

Â&#x2122; Ă?Â&#x201C;Â&#x201C; Â&#x192;Â&#x201D;

billion (INR151,905 crore),up1.27 per cent (6.7 per cent higher in INR terms) compared to the levels in June 2015. Total exports for the period April-June2016-17 was down 2.1 per cent at US$65.3 billion (INR423,315 crore, up 3.2 per cent) over the same period last year.

Imports in June 2016 were valued at US$30.7 billion (INR206,524 crore) and were 7.3 per cent lower (2.3 per cent lower in INR terms) over the level of imports in June 2015. Cumulative imports for the period April-June 2016-17 was at US$84.55billion, down 14.5 per cent (INR627,830 crore, down 9.9 per cent) over the same period last year.

Crude oil imports declined 16.4 per centin June 2016 and 23.6 per cent drop during April-June 2016-17. In similar comparison, nonoil imports were 4.1 per cent lower in June 2016 and 11.5 per cent lower in April-June 2016-17. [

$

[ Â&#x153; Â&#x201C;F*Â&#x2020; *Â&#x201D;

Â&#x2122; Ă?*Â&#x201A; Â&#x201C;

$

Â&#x2122; Ă?<Â&#x201C; Â&#x201C;

[

June, 2015-16.

DOMESTIC APPAREL INDUSTRY HIT WITH RISE IN IMPORT OF USED GARMENT Rise in imports of used garments has worsened the overall scenario further of INR250,000 crore domestic apparel industry which is passing through tough times due to demand slowdown.

Categorised as restricted item (which means import not possible without government licences), the government has issued only 16 licences so far for players only in KandlaSpecialised Economic Zone (SEZ). Import of used garments elsewhere in the country is banned.

While these 16 authorised importers have been bringing in used garments into India already, a number of unauthorised importers also bring in several consignments at Kolkata, Chennai and Mumbai ports. Thus, unauthorised importers contribute equivalent to the ¢

Â&#x160;

INDIAN GARMENTERS EXPLORING IRANIAN MARKET Indian garment exporters are exploring opportunities in Iran, although US and EU are important markets, for textiles exports in an attempt to reduce their dependence on the two regions for growth, said Rashmi Verma, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, on the sidelines of an event in Mumbai.

A delegation led by the Ministry of Commerce and accompa

Â&#x161;

Â&#x160;

counterparts in Iran. The Indian delegation discussed a host of issues including prevailing taxes and relaxation in policy support for hassle-free export of textiles to Iran.

CHINA SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCES SPUN YARN IMPORT FROM INDIA Spun yarn exportsin June 2016fell 12 per cent in volume terms and down17 per cent in US$ value terms.Spun yarn (all

36

kinds) shipments were at 101.8million kg worth US$283 million or INR1,881crore, implying per unit realisationof US$2.78 per kg which was up US cents 6 from previous month and down US cents 16 as compared to June 2015.

The Indian yarn industry was confronted with excess supply, after cotton yarn exports ^Ć&#x2030;ƾŜ zÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ĺś Ç&#x2020;Ć&#x2030;Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161;Ć? Ͳ Ç&#x2021; WĹ˝Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161; sharply dropped in the Î&#x2013;ĎŹĎŹĎŹ <Ĺ?Ć?

DůŜ h^Ψ

:ƾŜͲϭϹ :ƾŜͲϭϲ :ƾŜͲϭϹ :ƾŜͲϭϲ $

L

DƾŜÄ&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A; Ď­Ď­Í&#x2022;ϾϾϹ ĎŽĎąÍ&#x2022;ϲϳϾ ĎŻĎ°Í&#x2DC;ϳϴ ϲϴÍ&#x2DC;ϳϾ Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s export prices dĆľĆ&#x;Ä?Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ĺś ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; Ď­ĎąÍ&#x2022;ϲϯϏ Ď­ĎąÍ&#x2022;ϴϹϏ ϹϯÍ&#x2DC;Ď­Ď­ ϹϏÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎł rocketing now, sales :EWd ĎŽĎŹÍ&#x2022;ϳώϰ Ď­ĎąÍ&#x2022;ϯϭϲ ϹϾÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎŹ Ď°Ď­Í&#x2DC;ĎŻĎ´ >ĆľÄ&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x201A; / Ď­Ď´Í&#x2022;ϾϯϏ ĎľÍ&#x2022;ϏϏϲ ϹϰÍ&#x2DC;Ͼώ ĎŽĎąÍ&#x2DC;ϾϹ of cotton yarns were DÄ&#x201A;Ä&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć? ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; ĎŽĎŹÍ&#x2022;ϲϭϴ Ď´Í&#x2022;ϲϴϾ ϹϲÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎł ĎŽĎŽÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎą down due to limited WĹ?Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC; ĎłÍ&#x2022;ϲϯϾ ϲÍ&#x2022;ĎŻĎ´Ďą ĎŽĎ­Í&#x2DC;ĎŻĎ´ Ď­ĎłÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŽ demand.Also, demand DÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻÄ&#x201A;Ĺľ / ĎŽÍ&#x2022;ϭϳϴ ĎŻÍ&#x2022;ϾϏϯ ĎąÍ&#x2DC;Ϲϴ ĎľÍ&#x2DC;Ď­ĎŽ DÄ&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161;Ĺ?Ä&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x2030; Ď­Í&#x2022;ĎŽĎŻĎľ ĎŽÍ&#x2022;Ϲϯώ ĎŻÍ&#x2DC;Ď´ĎŽ ĎłÍ&#x2DC;ϳϏ from China continued <Ä&#x201A;ĆŠĆľĆ&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĹŻĹ? Ď­Í&#x2022;ϾϳϹ ĎŻÍ&#x2022;ĎŹĎŽĎ­ ĎąÍ&#x2DC;ϭϲ ĎłÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎŽ shifting to low cost Ĺ˝Ä?Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?Ĺś ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; ĎŽÍ&#x2022;ϭϳϴ Ď­Í&#x2022;ϲϲϲ Ď´Í&#x2DC;ϲϭ ϲÍ&#x2DC;Ď´Ďł sĹ?Ç&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ĺ? ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; Ď­Í&#x2022;ϯϹϲ ĎŽÍ&#x2022;Ď°ĎŻĎą ĎŻÍ&#x2DC;ϲϳ ĎąÍ&#x2DC;ϳϳ yarn suppliers where WÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x2030;ŽůÄ&#x17E; ZĹ˝Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; Ď­Í&#x2022;Ď­ĎŻĎŹ Ď­Í&#x2022;ϹϏώ Ď°Í&#x2DC;ĎŻĎą ĎąÍ&#x2DC;Ď­Ďł many spinning mills <Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ć?Ĺ&#x161;ĹśÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x201A;Ĺľ Ď­Í&#x2022;ĎŽĎ­ĎŹ Ď­Í&#x2022;Ͼϭϰ ĎŻÍ&#x2DC;Ď­ĎŻ Ď°Í&#x2DC;ϾϏ are actually owned EÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?Ć&#x2030;ĆľĆ&#x152; Ď­Í&#x2022;Ϗϭϲ Ď­Í&#x2022;Ď­ĎŹĎľ ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;ϾϾ ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;Ď´Ď° by Chinese investors. ,Ç&#x2021;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; / ϳϹϭ ϳϳϾ ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎŽ Ď­Í&#x2DC;Ͼϲ dĆľĆ&#x;Ä?Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ĺś / ϹώϹ ϯϳώ ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎŻ Ď­Í&#x2DC;Ď°Ďł However, the sharp Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹ&#x161;Ĺ? d< / Ď°Í&#x2022;ĎŻĎŹĎŽ Ͼϭϳ Ď­ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;ϲϭ Ď­Í&#x2DC;Ď°ĎŻ drop of shipments to Ĺ&#x161;ĹľÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; / Ď­Í&#x2022;Ϗϲώ ϰϾϳ ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;ϾϾ Ď­Í&#x2DC;ϯϲ Ä&#x201A;ĹŻÄ?ƾƊÄ&#x201A; ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; ĎŽĎŹ Ϲϳ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎŽ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ϲϳ Â&#x2021;

Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹ&#x161;Ĺ? Ĺ?Ć&#x152; ϳϭ ϳώ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ď°Ďą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎ° by a new surge in sales dŽŜÄ&#x161;Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x161; / Ď­Í&#x2022;ĎŹĎ´Ďľ Ď°ĎŹ ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;ϹϏ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎľ to Bangladesh.

WĹ?Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹľĆ&#x2030;ĆľĆ&#x152; / ŽžÄ?Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x2021; Ĺ?Ć&#x152; DÄ&#x201A;Ä&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć? Ĺ?Ć&#x152; Ĺ&#x161;ĹľÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; Ĺ?Ć&#x152; ŜŏůÄ&#x17E;Ć?Ĺ&#x161;Ç Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152; 'Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; dĹ˝Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻ

ĎŽĎ°ĎŽ ĎŻĎŹ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ϹϏ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎł ϭϲ ĎŽĎŹ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎł ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎł Ď­Ďą Ď­Ď­ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ď­ĎŻ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎą ĎŽ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŽ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŹĎŹ ĎŽĎŽ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ϗϲ

Ď­Ď­ĎąÍ&#x2022;Ͼϯϲ Ď­ĎŹĎ­Í&#x2022;Ď´ĎŹĎą ĎŻĎ°Ď­Í&#x2DC;ώϲ ĎŽĎ´ĎŻÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŹ

InJune 2016, 87 countries imported spun yarns from India, with China accounting for 24 per cent of the total value with imports plunging 51 per cent in terms of volume YoY and55 per cent in value YoY. Bangladesh, the second largest importer of spun yarns, accounted for around 18.3 per cent of all spun yarn exported from India. Export to Bangladesh jumped 65 per cent in volumes and 50 per cent higher in value.

Egypt, the third largest importer of spun yarns, saw volume rising 7 per cent whilevalue inched up 0.3 per cent. These top three importers together accounted for around 47 per cent of all spun yarns exported from India in June.

Cotton yarn export was at 81.7 million kg in June with 74 countries worth US$226.8 million (INR1,491 crore). The average unit price realization was US$2.78 a kg, up US cents 7 from previous month and down US cents 24 from the same month a year ago.

China was the largest importer of cotton yarn from India in June, followed by Bangladesh and Egypt.The top three together accounted for more than 54 per cent of cotton yarn with combined volume at 46.5 million kg worth US$123.3 million. Their respective unit price realization was US$2.44 a kg, US$2.95 a kg and US$2.90 a kg.

Iran, Turkey, Thailand, Tunisia and Croatia were among the fastest growing markets for cotton yarn, and accounted for 5.5 per cent of total cotton yarn export value. Nine new destinations were

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

<$51 5(3257 added for cotton yarn export, of which, Australia, Mozambique, Chile and Bulgaria were the major ones.

Seven countries did not import any cotton yarn from India, including New Zealand, Cambodia, Russia, France and Finland.

They had imported yarns worth US$0.69 million in June 2015. In Â&#x153; Â&#x201C;F*Â&#x2020; $

Â

Kong,Norway, Slovenia, Singapore and Syria.

Combed cotton yarn accounted for 55.5 per cent of cotton yarn exported in June with volumes at 46 million kg worth US$141 million. Carded yarn export was at 27 million kg. Their respective unit value realization was US$3.07 per kg and US$2.49 per kg. Open ended yarn export was at 5.8 million kg at an average price of US$1.56 a kg.

MANMADE FIBRE YARNS EXPORT CONTINUES UPTREND !(($ Â&#x17D;

 "

Î&#x2013;ĎŹĎŹĎŹ <Ĺ?Ć?

DůŜ h^Ψ exportwas at

:ƾŜͲϭϹ :ƾŜͲϭϲ :ƾŜͲϭϹ :ƾŜͲϭϲ 7.82 million kg in DƾŜÄ&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A; Ď­ĎłÍ&#x2022;ώϳϾ Ď­Ď°Í&#x2022;Ͼϯώ ώϲÍ&#x2DC;Ϲϲ ĎŽĎŻÍ&#x2DC;Ͼϲ June, comprising WÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x2030;ŽůÄ&#x17E; ZĹ˝Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; ϲÍ&#x2022;ĎŻĎ´ĎŽ Ď­ĎŹÍ&#x2022;ϯϳϴ Ď­ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ď´Ďą Ď­ĎłÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎŽ 2.93 million kg of polyester yarn, :EWd Ď­Ď´Í&#x2022;ϴϯϲ Ď­ĎŹÍ&#x2022;ĎŹĎ°Ď´ ĎŽĎ´Í&#x2DC;ϭϲ Ď­ĎŻÍ&#x2DC;Ď­Ď° 3.81million kg of ŜŏůÄ&#x17E;Ć?Ĺ&#x161;Ç Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152; Ď­Í&#x2022;Ϗϯϲ Ď­Í&#x2022;ĎŽĎ­ĎŹ Ď­Í&#x2DC;ϲϳ ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎŻ viscose yarn and >ĆľÄ&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x201A; / ĎŽÍ&#x2022;ĎŽĎŽĎ´ ϲώϴ ĎŻÍ&#x2DC;ϲϴ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ϳϾ 1.07 million kg of acrylic yarn.

EÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?Ć&#x2030;ĆľĆ&#x152; ϰϾϾ ϳϏϰ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ϲώ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ϳϰ Polyester yarn exWĹ?Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC; ĎŽÍ&#x2022;ϭϲϹ Ď°Ď°Ď­ ĎŻÍ&#x2DC;Ď°Ďą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ϲϴ ports were up6.9 ,Ç&#x2021;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; / ϲϹ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎ­ per cent in value

dĆľĆ&#x;Ä?Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ĺś ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; Ϲϰ ĎŽĎł ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎ´ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎľ while viscose yarn exports value Ä&#x201A;ĹŻÄ?ƾƊÄ&#x201A; ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; Ď­Ď´ Ď­Ď´ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŽ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎ° surged108.3 per ŽžÄ?Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x2021; Ĺ?Ć&#x152; ĎŹ Ď­ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŹ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŹ cent during the Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹ&#x161;Ĺ? Ĺ?Ć&#x152; ĎŹ Ď­ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŹ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŹ month. Acrylic yarn exports saw Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹ&#x161;Ĺ? d< / ĎŽĎą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŻ

a drastic plunge <Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ć?Ĺ&#x161;ĹśÄ&#x201A;Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x201A;Ĺľ ώϾϹ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎł

of 25 per cent in Ĺ˝Ä?Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?Ĺś ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŹĎŽ

June. Unit price'Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; dĹ˝Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻ Ď°Ď´Í&#x2022;ϴϭϲ ĎŻĎ´Í&#x2022;ϰϹϰ ϳϹÍ&#x2DC;ϲϴ ϹϾÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎŽ realization was down US cents 14 a kg for polyester from a year ago and that of viscose yarn was down US cent 1 a kg. Acrylic yarn unit price realization was down US cents 70 a kg year on year basis.

&Ĺ?Ä?Ć&#x152;Ä&#x17E; Ç&#x2020;Ć&#x2030;Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161;Ć? Ͳ Ç&#x2021; WĹ˝Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161;

5

wereexportedto 49 countries in June aggregating US$6.48 million with unit price realization averaging US$2.21 a kg. A total of 2.93 million kg was exported, of which, 23.2 per cent was shipped by Turkey alone. Twelve new destinations were found for polyester yarn this June, of which, Canada, Argentina,Uganda, Algeriaand Russia were the major ones. Â&#x2018;

export was valued at US$11.55 million or INR76.8 crore and volume at 3.81 million kg, implying average unit price realization of US$3.03 per kg. They were exported to 25 countries with Iran at the topworth US$3.05 million. It was followed by Belgium with imports worth US$2.07 million. Both these markets accounted for 45.7 per cent of all viscose yarn exported in June. Brazil, Egypt, Germany and Indonesia were the fastest growing markets for viscose yarns while Portugal,United Kingdom, Canada, China and Turkmenistan were the new major markets. Pakistan, South Korea and Vietnam were the major ones among the 7 countries that did not import any viscose yarns during the month.

August 2016

www.textilevaluechain.com

BLENDED YARNS EXPORTSURGES IN JUNE z

export was worth US$35.5 million in June, up 19.3 per cent YoY while volumes rose 23.8 per cent at 12.3 million kg. During the month, 5.9 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$15.9 million. Another 4.3 million kg of PV yarns valued at US$11.3 million were exported. Acrylic/cotton yarn prices were down 21 per cent YoY. In June, 1.5 million kg of other blend of yarns were exported worth US$6.71 million.

Bangladesh and Colombia werethe largest importers of PC yarn from India in June followed by Honduras.Morocco, Argentina, Guatemala, Poland and Bahrainwere the fastest growing markets

]Â&#x2021;

= Â&#x161; $

]Â&#x2021;

from India. Ecuadorand Indonesia were among the 9 countries that did not import any PC yarns from India during June. Syria was the major destination among the 8 new markets found in June.

In June, US$11.3 million worth of 5Â&#x2018;

were exported from India with volumes at 4.3 million kgs. = continued to be largest 7 5Â&#x2018; from India followed by Pakistan with total volume at 2.7 million kg worth at US$7.1 million. Venezuela and Morocco were the new major markets for PV yarn while 7 countries did not import any PV yarn during the month, including the major ones like Peru, Romania and Syria.

FILAMENT YARNS EXPORT DECLINES

&Ĺ?ĹŻÄ&#x201A;ĹľÄ&#x17E;ĹśĆ&#x161; Ç&#x2020;Ć&#x2030;Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161;Ć? Ͳ Ç&#x2021; WĹ˝Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161; Î&#x2013;ĎŹĎŹĎŹ <Ĺ?Ć?

DĹŻĹś h^Ψ :ƾŜͲϭϹ :ƾŜͲϭϲ :ƾŜͲϭϹ :ƾŜͲϭϲ :EWd ĎŻĎŹÍ&#x2022;ϹϾϳ ώϲÍ&#x2022;ώϰϲ ϹώÍ&#x2DC;Ď°ĎŽ Ď°Ď­Í&#x2DC;Ď­Ďł EÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?Ć&#x2030;ĆľĆ&#x152; Ď­Í&#x2022;ĎŻĎŻĎą ĎŻÍ&#x2022;Ď­Ď´Ď° Ď­Í&#x2DC;Ͼϴ Ď°Í&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŽ dĆľĆ&#x;Ä?Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ĺś / Ď°Ď°Ď­ ϰϹϰ ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;Ď´Ďł ĎŽÍ&#x2DC;Ď´Ď° DƾŜÄ&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A; ϯϲϭ ϯϹϾ Ď­Í&#x2DC;Ď­Ď­ Ď­Í&#x2DC;ĎŽĎŽ WĹ?Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC;Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x20AC; ĎŽĎ­ĎŽ ĎŽĎ­Ď­ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ď´Ďą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ϳϴ Ĺ&#x161;ĹľÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; / Ď°Ďł ĎŽĎŹĎą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ď­Ď´ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ϲϭ dĆľĆ&#x;Ä?Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ĺ?Ĺś ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; ϾϾ Ď­ĎŹĎł ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎŻ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ď°ĎŹ DÄ&#x201A;Ä&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć? ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; Ď°Ďą ĎŻĎŻ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎŽ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎł ŽžÄ?Ä&#x201A;Ç&#x2021; Ĺ?Ć&#x152; ϲώ Ϲϭ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŻĎŻ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎł WÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x2030;ŽůÄ&#x17E; ZĹ˝Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; Ď­Ď­ ĎŽĎľ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ď­ĎŻ DÄ&#x201A;Ä&#x161;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć? Ĺ?Ć&#x152; Ďľ Ď­Ď° ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ď­Ď­ Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹ&#x161;Ĺ? d< / ĎŽĎ° ĎŽĎ´ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;Ď­Ďą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎľ <Ä&#x201A;ĆŠĆľĆ&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĹŻĹ? ĎŻĎŽ Ď­Ďł ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎą ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎł >ĆľÄ&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ĺ?Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x201A; / Ď­ĎŻ Ď­ĎŽ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎł ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎł Ĺ&#x161;ĹľÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ä?Ä&#x201A;Ä&#x161; Ĺ?Ć&#x152; ĎŽ Ď­ĎŻ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŽ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎą Ä&#x17E;ĹŻĹ&#x161;Ĺ? Ĺ?Ć&#x152; ĎŽ Ď­ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŽ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŹ Ä&#x201A;ĹŻÄ?ƾƊÄ&#x201A; ^Ä&#x17E;Ä&#x201A; ϲϹ ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŽĎą

ŜŏůÄ&#x17E;Ć?Ĺ&#x161;Ç Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152; Ď­Ď° ĎŹÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎŻ

'Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161; dĹ˝Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻ ĎŻĎŻÍ&#x2022;ϯϲϾ ĎŻĎŹÍ&#x2022;Ͼϲϯ ϲϭÍ&#x2DC;ĎŹĎł ϹώÍ&#x2DC;Ď­Ď­

In June, all types

$

port aggregated 31 million kg, declined 7.2per cent YoY whilevalue was down 14.7 per cent to US$52.1 million.

Filament yarns include polyester, nylon, polypropylene and viscose $

were exported to 76 countries during the month. More than 88

$

yarns were of polyester, of which, DTYs were the largest at 71.9 per cent.

During the month, 29.5 million Z

$ ment yarns were exported worth US$45.9 million. z Â?

= continued to be

°

$

Bangladesh. The three together accounted for 53.5 per cent of polyester $

= Â&#x161;

°

DTYs and Turkey was major importer of PFYs. Â&#x2122; [

°

$

Â&#x153;

volumes at 56,000 kg worth US$0.36 million. In value terms,Sri Lanka and United Kingdomwere the other largest markets for nylon $

Â&#x153;

Â&#x2122; Ă?F <Â&#x201A;

]

$

*Ă&#x17D;

June with volumes at 216,000 kg worth US$0.43 million. Mozambiquewas the major importer of PP yarns. Malaysia and Germany

37

<$51 5(3257

°

]] $

Â&#x153;

[ * FÂ&#x2013;F FFF Z

$

in June to 24 countries from India valued at US$4.3 million. During the month, 208,000 kg of VFYs were exported to % It was followed " ^

< % COTTON EXPORT FALLS AFTER RECENT RISE Â&#x2021; $

Â&#x201C;Â&#x2020; Â&#x192;

Z

*Â&#x192;Â&#x192; Â&#x201A;Â&#x192;Â&#x2013; >

170 kg each) in June which dec lined 26.3 per cent YoY and was valued at US$42.4 million, down 25.2 per cent.Bangladeshand Vietnam were the largest importers of cotton with combined volumes at 124,657 bales amongst the 12 countries that imported cotton from India.

$

** Â&#x201A;

Z

Â&#x2122; Ă?*Â&#x2020; Ă&#x17D;

million. These included ASF, PSF, VSF and PPSF. USA and Belgium were the largest importers of PSF during June while 5 =

Israel were the major importer of VSF, in similar comparison. Iranwas the dominant buyer of ASF. SIMILAR REPORT ON FABRIC IS UNDER PREPARATION L

$

$

yarns, we are in the process of preparing a separate report covering all kinds of fabric exported from India. Like this report, it will provide in-depth analysis and statistics of fabric exported from 33 ports in India accounting for 90% of total volume and value of ex

L

#

know more call us on 022-66291104, 66291141.

685$7 5(3257 ?

q "

" !`$

Because of high cost of Raw-materials, fuels and labour charges, the textile mill owners in surat has increased processing °

*Â&#x192;Â&#x2022;

[ * #

°

charge will lead to price hike upto Rs. 1-2/mtr. in synthetic saree and dress materials.

The South Gujarat Textile Processors Association(SGTPA), an association of textile mills in surat and in nearby areas, has increased the job charge of all kind of fabrics. According to SGPTA, the prices of various colour-chemicals, fuel(lignite, coal-gas) and other raw-materials have constantly gone up since one and a half year. This has resulted in high input cost for fabrics processing.

Moreover, the power tarrif and labour charge has also increased upto 40 per cent in past two years. Due to higher input costs, more than 50 textile mills have closed down in last three years. Now, in order to sustain business of textile mills it has become necessary to hike the price of processing jobcharge, the industry sources said. To discuss the issue, a meeting of SGTPA was held in july, in which the association has unanimously decided to increase the job charge. The processing job charge (fabric dyeing & printing charge) has hiked in the range of 10 to 15 per cent.

At present, 340 textile processing mills are operating in surat and around the city. More than 1.5 lakh people are employed in these textile processing units.

Â&#x17D; =

7 7 son The wholesale textile market of synthetic saree and dress materials in surat is glittering ahead of festival season. Mainly, medium price range synthetic saree and dresses are in high demand.

The manufacturers and dealers have received good orders for printed and embroidery work saree in the price range from Rs. 300

Â&#x2020;FF J

$

constant upto Diwali and Durgapuja feastival.

Rakshabandhan and Janmashtmi festivals will come after

[ #

$

fabrics to various retailers in the country. For gifting, medium price range saree and dresses demand has increased during the period of Rakshabandhan. Dress materials of Banarasi silk, cotton-net mix

38

fabric, tafeta silk, synthetic mix, Bhagalpuri grey fabric are in good demand. Embroidery and hand work with fancy lace designer dress materials in between the price range of 200 to 700 attract large group of customers. Besides this, the purchasing of shining work of Jari brockat, jackard, gold coin-net fabric for Durgapuja festival has already been started in the local market.

Surat textile market sources said, good monsoon in various parts of the country is also positive sign. The retailers from all

$

The graph of business of surati saree and dress will go upwards in comming three months.

#((

?

Â&#x17D;

With a view to produce garment fabrics, a state-of-the-art textile processing cluster is proposed to develop at Pinjrat village in Surat district. Rs 800 cr worth this mega cluster will be set-up on approx. 50 lakh square metre of land and the allotment of the same is under consideration of state government.

At present, around 340 textile processing mills are there in and around Surat. Most of these processing units are manufacturing fabrics for saris, dress materials and home textiles. Only 5

$

¢

menting sector. Garment sector is growing annualy by 15%. Huge demand is there for various kinds of fabrics in this sector. Textile mill owners of the city and Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) are eager to develope more than 100 processing units with state-of-the-art technology in textile processing cluster in Pinjrat. The project cost for the cluster is pegged at Rs 800 crore. The SGCCI is eyeing 50 per cent grant from the central government and 25 per cent each from the state government and

"Â&#x2021;Â&#x2021;J

Â&#x2013;FF

$

the proposed textile processing cluster from textile commissioner.

The mega cluster will develop with high technology machinery to boost the manufacturing capacity and quality of textile processing sector in Surat. Textile processing units will be connected with a common boiler system thereby discouraging the use of chimneys emitting pollution. There will be a set-up for wind power and solar power generation, common drainage, CETP plant, tertiary treatment plant and other state-of-the-art facilities.

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2016

.S #JQJO 7PSB

ƐƐŽĐŝĂƚĞƐ 'LJLWDO .QLWWLQJ (PEURLGHU\ 3ODLQ 'REE\ -DFTXDUG )DQF\ *DUPHQW &ORWKHV

,PSRUW ([SRUW &RQVXOWDQW

7(67 <285 352'8&76 ,1 +286( :,7+ 0,1,080 ,19(670(17 :H 0DNH DOO .LQGV RI 7H[WLOH 7HVWLQJ DQG ODE LQVWUXPHQW WR WHVW WKH TXDOLW\ RI ¿EUH ¿EULF DQG *DUPHQWV DV SHU LQWHUQDWLRQDO VWDQGDUGV 2XU LQVWUXPHQWV RIIHU UHSHDWDEOH DQG UHOLDEOH UHVXOWV :H 3URYLGH ODE FRQVXPDEOH DQG FDOLEUDWLRQ RI WHVWLQJ LQVWUXPHQWV DOVR 1IZTJDBM 1SPQFSUJFT UFTUJOH *OEVTUSJBM TBGFMZ BOE QFSGPSNBODF TUBOEBSET UFTUJOH #SBOE TUBOEBSET UFTUJOH $POTVNFS FYQFDUBUJPO TUBOEBSET UFTUJOH 4PDJBM DPNQMJBODF TUBOEBSET UFTUJOH

"NJUI (BSNFOU 4FSWJDFT

0DWHULDO 7HVWLQJ 6ROXWLRQV IRU 7H[WLOH $SSDUHO ,QGXVWU\ &RQWDFW

QG & &URVV WK PDLQ 1DJHQGUD %ORFN %6.

VW 6WDJH %DQJDORUH ,QGLD

3KRQH )D[ 0RELOH (PDLO WHVWLQJ WH[WLOH#JPDLO FRP WH[WLOHWHVWLQJ#DPLWKJDUPHQWVHUYLFHV FRP TXDOLW\#DPLWKJDUPHQWVHUYLFHV FRP :HEVLWH ZZZ DPLWKJDUPHQWVHUYLFHV FRP

$GYW

$GYW