AUGUST 2019

COVER AUGUST 2019.ai 1 25-08-2019 22:05:24

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AUGUST 2019

Volume 7

Issue 8 INTERVIEW ATE Team Amol Bhagwati , InspirOn Bhupinder Singh, BTEX Dr. Mohit Raina ITMA INNOVATIONS Dornier ; Colorjet; Sanjay Plastic ; PICANOL ; SAVIO; Textechno ; FONGS ; Dharmshil ; Archroma; INTERVIEWS: Monforts ; Staubli; Prabhu Damodaran, ACIMIT; Prashant Group ; Indian Texpreneurs Federation ITMA Awards; Goller; James C.C. Wang, TAMI Québec Companies

Rahul Mehta, CMAI MARKET Rajiv Dewan,REPORT GEAR Cotton; Yarn, Mukesh Thakkar, Jalaram Creation Surat, Varun Sharma, Hubert Ozz

Manufacturing Analytics, Big Data, Glass Fiber Yarn, POST ITMA INNOVATIONS 2019 Garment Ex-Import Update EFIFinancial health Textile Comp.

GROZ BECKERT KARL MAYER USTER

MARKET REPORT Yarn Surat ARTICLES Clothing from Ahimsa Silk Fibers Influence of Pick Ratio Fabric Industry – Education Linkage

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 60

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August 2019

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11 51

CHINA INTERNATIONAL KNITTING FAIR AUTUMN EDITION

HALL3 2019 9.25-9.27 NATIONAL EXHIBITION AND CONVENTION CENTER 12 (SHANGHAI)

Organizer The Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT August 2019 China Knitting Industrial Association www.textilevaluechain.com

EDITORIAL TEAM ARTICLES

Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Chief Editor Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Associate Editor Mr. Swaminathan

15- Clothing from Ahimsa Silk ( Peace Silk) Fibers

by Dr. NN Mahapatra 17- Influence of different pick ratio fabric on some mechanical properties by SVVV College student / professor 18- Transforming Textile Education through Industry – Institute linkage program by NMIMS Professors 22- Cotton Textile V/S Artificial Textile Names : PP Non-woven by Kamal Shah

INDUSTRY

Advertiser Index Back Page : Raymond

10- Weaves

Back Inside : Raysil

11- DN Associates

Front Inside : Rimtex

12- PH Value

3- Trutzschler

28- Textest

4- Sanjay Plastic

50- ISE

5- JP Modatex

54- Vora Associates

6- Techtextil INDIA

57- ITMACH INDIA

7- World Traders

58- SAVIO

8- Great India Textile Show 9- YARN EXPO – Shanghai

August 2019

MARKET REPORT 23- Basic textiles shipment plunges 25% in July 2019 by Textile Beacon 24- Surat Report by TVC Reporter ASSOCIATION NEWS 25- CITI 26- INDA & EDANA POST EVENT REPORT

August 2019

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar Consulting Editor Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Business Head (DYES), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. Mr. R.D. Udeshi President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd. EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Mr. R.M. Shankar Asst. Director, ATIRA

CONTENT

27- DENIM TALKS 29- SIMA TEXFAIR SUSTAINABLE FASHION 30- WTO & Sustainable Goals 31- Project SU.RE by CMAI & IMG Reliance 32- Nordstrom’s New Shop – Game Changer 33- Circular Design Winner in LFW SOUTH INDIA UPDATE 34-CRISIS TO OPPORTUNITY – POSSIBLE WAY AHEAD

by Mr. NAGACHANDRAN V. ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS 35- EFI 37- GROZ BECKERT 41- KARL MAYER 45- USTER 48- SHOW CALENDAR INTERVIEWS 49- Prabhu Damodaran, Indian Texpreneurs Federation 51- James Wang, TAMI 52- Rahul Mehta, CMAI 53- Rajiv Dewan , GEAR 55- Mukesh Thakkar, Jalaram Creation 56- Varun Sharma, Hubert OZZ

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

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13

EDITORTIAL

Bilateral Trade Agreements on revisal mode

‘‘

“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.”

’’

Revival Strategy of industry is increase Consumption!!! We all are hearing this from all stakeholders of the industry and discussion going on around how, when and why? One of the strategy suggested of revisal of bilateral trade between all neighboring countries, developed countries, all other Trade agreements which was initially made for benefits of industry!

India – Bangladesh Free trade agreement, China entering indirect way to India by dumping surplus Chinese goods, due to trade issues with USA. All industry in India worried for RCEP (Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership) is proposed FTA ( Free Trade Agreement ) between 16 nations which includes 10 ASEAN Nations ie. Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam and its six partners are China, Japan, India, South Korea, Australia and New Zealand. This RCEP group is 45% of world’s population with 33% of its GDP and at least 28% of all trade in the world today. This is make or break deal for Indian government.

If the RCEP is concluded, it will bring stability to an otherwise unpredictable world market. The worry is that it could also make world trade less flexible, putting members into a quasi-bloc with China. Most RCEP members also conduct substantial trade with the United States, and the ongoing U.S.-China trade war may force many of them to take sides, causing a geopolitical rift within the group even before it is fully formed.

As a result, the next four months leading up to the next RCEP summit will be watched closely by the entire world. Anticipation levels are high, and the ASEAN grouping even has a countdown to the summit, to be held on November 19 in Bangkok.

India’s chief concern with the RCEP is the fact that it needs to protect its economy from the flooding of cheap imports from China. Of all the countries in the RCEP, India is the only one not involved in any bilateral or multilateral negotiations for an FTA with China, and the worry for the government and industry is that an FTA within the RCEP will just become a cover for duty free trade into India for Chinese goods. RCEP negotiators have thus far agreed to allowing India a differential tariff ladder, for its FTA partners and its non-FTA partners (China, Australia and New Zealand) within the grouping. China wants zero tariffs for over 90 per cent tariff lines however, which could see low-cost “Made in China” goods kill locally manufactured goods. India has asked for strict “Rules of Origin” markings on all goods, so they don’t come in through a third country.

In addition, India wants to ensure the free flow of services (manpower) to RCEP countries as well, but has faced an uphill task as most countries tighten their immigration laws. The government has been cautious about moving ahead for this FTA.

Ms. Jigna Shah

Celebrate Indian Festival Season with Indian made products to support domestic industry.

Editor and Publisher

14

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August 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER CLOTHING FROM AHIMSA SILK ( PEACE SILK ) FIBRES Did you know that nearly 30,000 silkworms die a torrid, brutal death to make that one sari?

Unlike the usual process in which silkworms are boiled to death, in Ahimsa silk, each worm is allowed to escape the cocoon, after which the thread is spun .

For instance, Rajaiah purchases live cocoons from farmers and keeps them in a bamboo basket.

After a two-week wait, worms pierce the cocoons to emerge as moths.

It is from this broken cocoon that silk is extracted. It is a time consuming process, with the yield being considerably lesser than what one would get by the usual process.

It is this that makes the Ahimsa silk at least one-and-ahalf-times more expensive than traditional silk.

“But, none of this matters when you think of the lives of half a million silk moths that were saved in the process,” smiles Kochhar.

Kusuma Rajaiah, an Indian man, has developed a new technique for producing silk that does not require killing silk worms in the process. [Note: We’ve been informed that a company in Oregon, Peace Silk, already uses this technique]. Right now, producing a silk saree involves killing of at least 50 thousand silkworms. Rajaiah has won the patent for producing the “Ahimsa” silk. Ahimsa is a religious concept which advocates non-violence and a respect for all life. However, the production of the silk is more expensive. For example, a saree which costs 2400 rupees to produce using regular silk, will cost 4000 rupees when made with Ahimsa silk.

Rajaiah says his inspiration is Mahatma. He gave a message to the Indian silk industry that if silk can be produced without killing silkworms, it would be better. He dreamt but that did not happen in his lifetime. I am the happiest person that at least I could do this little thing.”

Rajaiah says he started giving a serious thought to “Ahimsa” silk when in the 1990s. Janaki Venkatraman, wife of the former President, asked if she could get a silk saree that is made without killing silk worms. Yarn for a silk saree is usually produced by throwing live cocoons of silkworm into boiling water. A single saree needs upto 50,000 cocoons. Rajaiah allows the moth to escape from the cocoon by waiting for 7-10 days and then uses the shells to produce yarn.

The production of the silk through process is called Ahimsa Peace Silk. As it is a non- violent process a name synonym with Mahatma Gandhi. The Hindi word “ahimsa” means “non-violence.” ... The saris are woven through a complicated process, an eco-friendly process of manufacturing mulberry silk yarn.

Ahimsa silk, also known as peace silk, is a type of silk that is purported to be made in a fashion that is much more humane to the creatures creating the silk than many tra-

August 2019

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ditional methodologies.

Kusuma Rajaiah, a government officer from India’s Andhra Pradesh state, applied the theories behind the ahimsa way of life to the making of silk and found that it was possible to create silk without killing the creatures that created it. Traditional silk manufacturing methods involve boiling the cocoons of the silkworm and then sorting out the threads to be used later in production. Rajaiah’s idea involves a gentler method, specifically letting the worms hatch and then using the cocoons once vacant. He started deploying this process in 1992 and has hence been supported by a larger community of people interested in the welfare and rights of animals and non-humans.

Processing Method The process of creating ahimsa silk begins in one of two ways: either the pupa is allowed to hatch and the leftover cocoon is then used to create silk, or the cocoon may be cut open, achieving much the same result but often saving the resultant material from contamination by urine from the hatching moth.

While Bombyx mori are the preferred species for creating ahimsa silk, there are a few other types of species that fall under the category of ahimsa silk, which is defined not necessarily by the species of the moth involved but by the methods for harvesting the cocoon. The other types of silkworm that are used for this process are a subspecies of the ailanthus silkmoth and several types of tussah or tasar moths: the Chinese tussah moth, the Indian tasar moth, and the muga moth.

The subspecies of the ailanthus silkmoth, Samia cynthia ricini, eats the leaves of the castor bean or cassava leaves.

It is also known as the eri silkmoth. Eri silk is made from the cocoons of these particular insects and is also produced using less violent methods than the normal heat treating, but the quality of eri silk is often seen as inferior to that of the silk created by the offspring of the Bombyx mori moth.

Ahimsa silk may also be manufactured from tasar and tussah silks, leaving the moths to their own designs.

Qualities of Ahimsa Silk The main qualities of ahimsa silk are derived from the ideals surrounding the concept of ahimsa. This allows the silk to be manufactured without harm to the beings that created it. These ideals appeal to religions like Jainism, Hinduism and Buddhismwhose followers forego all injury to other forms of life. Non-violent lifestyle proponents have more recently found peace silk to be in keeping with their way of life. These arguments while valid for many other reasons have not been conclusively proven to affect the actual physical structure of the cloth itself.

15

SUSTAINABLE FIBER From a purely economic standpoint, it is difficult to make the argument for peace silk as it requires 10 extra days in the process to let the larvae grow and the moths to hatch out of the cocoons. In contrast, the less humane process takes about 15 minutes. At this later stage the cocoon yields one-sixth of the filament. This inflates the cost of nonviolent silk, which is priced at roughly 6,000 rupees (US$92) per kilogram—about twice the price of the regular kind.

Silk fibre is the most beautiful natural fibre to be found by the human civilization.It was founded in China.I India it is produced in Karnataka,Assam. In India, mulberry silk is produced mainly in the states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Jammu & Kashmir and West Bengal, while the non-mulberry silks are produced in Jharkhand, Chattisgarh, Orissa and north-eastern states. Mulberry Silk is produced from the silkworm, Bombyx mori which solely feeds on the leaves of mulberry plant.This larvae secretes a liquid secretion which solidifies when it comes in contact of the air and forms a cocoon.This cocoon is further used as a raw silk. To take out the silk these cocoons are boiled in heated water and are killed.So after prolonged research a new method has been invented in which the silk larvae are not killed and the cocoons are taken out without. The production of the silk through process is called Ahimsa Peace Silk. As it is a nonviolent process a name synonym with Mahatma Gandhi.

Introduction The Hindi word “ahimsa” means “non-violence.” This new way of the production of silk yarn is also known as “peace silk.” Both names are very fitting as they help sum up the movement behind the product.

It would have certainly pleased the father of the Nation to know that someone was weaving Ahimsa saris in India! The saris are woven through a complicated process, an eco-friendly process of manufacturing mulberry silk yarn. The traditional production of the silk saris requires killing of thousands of moths.Silkworms are fed on mulberry leaves, in the privacy of bamboo baskets. They exude a viscous fluid through their heads, which hardens into raw silk as it comes in contact with air. The strands of silk create a cocoon around the silkworm, which normally dies when the silk is extracted. The larvae are boiled alive, roasted or centrifuged. The female moths are slit open to check for diseases after they have laid the eggs for the next generation. Most consumers are not aware of the cruelty involved in the process of production. So there was a requirement of the development of a process so that the silk moths are not killed and the consumer should get non-violent silk without killing the silk worm.

Ahimsa Peace Silk Silk can also be made in a non-violent, eco-friendly and sustainable way A process of the production was developed in Andhra Pradesh. Ahimsa Peace Silk does away with brutal practices in the silk production without compromising on the quality of the silk and the productivity of operations. Unlike the conventional method where the pupae are killed before reeling yarn from the cocoons, in the process of Ahimsa Peace Silk production the adult moths are allowed to emerge alive from the cocoons and then the silk yarn is spun from the open ended or pierced cocoons found in the wild or from those used in breeding cycles. The silk moths best

16

suited for the production of ahimsa silk are the Eri Silk Moth ( Philosamia ricini). These feed on the castor plant in contrast to the conventional mulberry feeding silk moth.

Other species that are being used for Ahimsa Peace Silk are the Tassar moths (both tropical and temperate- Antheraea mylitta and Antiheraea proylei) and the Muga Silk Moth ( Antheraea assamensis). These are wild and semi wild silks. Therefore, after this process a silk is produced without killing of silkworms so all consumers who care for the environment and respect the right of life for all the living beings can wear this product with a clear conscience and enjoy the soft and luxurious feel of spun silk. While ahimsa silk may lack the shine of regular silk, it is comfortable to wear. It’s also wrinkle free and has a better fall.

Now a days it is very much in demand and large range of products are available in the market. Ahimsa Peace Silk creates unique products that appeal to the demand of environmentally conscious and non violent clientele all over the world. It provides an alternative for discerning and aware consumers to make their choices in such a way that even as they buy silk they are able to accord the respect that our fellow living beings on the earth deserve from us. Products Developed from Ahimsa Silk A huge range of products are developed from ahimsa silk such as Shawls, stoles, scarves, ties, saris, made-ups, furnishing fabrics, knitwear, ‘modern’ traditional Indian items, casual wear, dress materials, apparel fabrics, rugs and other diversified products etc.All these items are made of pure ahimsa silk fiber or blends. Dyes used are natural dyes as well as chemical . The product are tested in the laboratories for its durability, content and colour fastness. Reputed designers and professionals working in this field have provided the groups with the latest design inputs. This constant interactive process between the weavers and designers has resulted in the production of a wide range of Ahimsa silk . Traditional designs have been revived and adapted to current trends to cater to this new market. So one can say that it is a great revolution in the fied of silk production as lot many celebrity people have started using ahimsa silk fabric.The examples are Menaka Gandhi , Chitra Gandhi etc.

DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

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August 2019

FABRIC FOCUS

INFLUENCE OF DIFFERENT PICK RATIO FABRIC ON SOME MECHANICAL PROPERTIES This study is about the effect of some mechanical properties on PC-Cotton fabric produced by keeping cotton as constant warp & having cotton and PC blend in weft with different pick ratio. It is observed that fabric having PC: cotton 1:1 ratio in weft shows highest value in mechanical properties among all. It can be said that in fabric properties, anatomical difference has terrific part.

Keywords: Polyester Cotton blend, Fabric, Mechanical property.

Introduction In Indian market, PC blends have obtained substantial vogue. Remarkable cost limiting by reduction of polyester content in PC fabrics is achievable without affecting consumer interest.1 Fiber type, crimp, blend type, contraction, yarn structure etc affects fabric frictional properties.2 In polyester-viscose blend, by increasing polyester content breaking strength and extensibility can be increased Fabric breaking strength is also known as tearing strength.

It point out as the supreme tensile force when material is extended to smash. And it is used to assess the potential of fabric to withstand to tensile harm.

Elongation at break or fracture strain, it explains the between changed length and initial length after breakage of the test specimen. Force is applied to material until it breaks.

Abrasion resistance of fabric can be explained as, the potential of fabric to hold out against surface wear created by rubbing touch with another specimen.

Methods and Materials Materials: Fabric is produced by using Polyester cotton blend in weft having blend ratio 65:35, of 34s count in which polyester fiber has 1.2 denier and, 38 mm staple fiber where as cotton is having micronaire value 4. Yarn has blend ratio polyester to cotton 65:35. And cotton in warp.

Total 5 samples were made with cotton in warp, and cotton and PC in weft at different pick ratio and plain as weave. In sequence sample 1 has cotton : PC ratio1:1, sample 2 is made by taking cotton both in warp as well as in weft, sample 3 has cotton in warp and PC in weft, sample 4 has cotton : PC ratio 1:2 and sample 5 has cotton : PC ratio 2:1.

Methods: Testing is done by standard test methods and at 27ยบ C and 67% RH.

strength and elongation at break were examined by ASTM D: 5035 and abrasion resistance was examined by ASTM D 3884.

Basic data of samples are given in table no. 1 Sample No.

EPI

PPI

Warp Count

(Ne)

Weft Count

(Ne)

Warp Weft Crimp Crimp (%) (%)

Thickness

1

73

35

20s

30s

5

2

0.44

2

74

35

20s

30s

5

2

0.48

3

72

37

20s

30s

5

2

0.45

(mm)

4

74

40

20s

30s

5

2

0.46

5

74

44

20s

30s

5

2

0.46

Table No. 1

Results BREKING STRENGTH: Sample 1 shows greatest breaking strength warp wise, whereas sample 4 shows lowest breaking strength whereas in weft sample 3 has highest value and sample 2 has lowest.

Chart No. 1 shows complete data of breaking strength.

Chart No. 1 ELONGATION AT BREAK: Sample 1 and 3 has same highest value of elongation at break in warp wise whereas sample 4 has least value. And in weft wise sample 3 has highest value and sample 4 and 5 has same least value.

Chart No. 2 shows complete data of elongation at break.

Total 3 mechanical tests were examined. Breaking

August 2019

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17

FABRIC FOCUS in relatively all properties.

Chart No. 2 ABRASION RESISTANCE: Sample 1, 2, & 3 has same values that are highest too and sample 4 has least value among all.

Data is given in following table.

References 1. G V Sarma, Surinder Singh, B C Verma & Anu Sakhuja, “Influence of Blend Composition and Weave on Some Mechanical Properties of Polyester-Cotton Blends”, Indian Journal of Textile Research, Vol. 5, December 1980, 114-121.

2. A Das, V K Kothari & V Nagaraju, “Frictional Characteristic of Woven Suiting & Shirting Fabrics”, Indian Journal of Fiber & Textile Research, Vol. 32, September 2007, 337343.

3. G S Bhargava & R K Yadav, “Effect of Blend Composition & Fabric Set on Some Characteristics of Polyester-Viscose Fabrics”, Indian Journal of Textile Research, Indian Journal of Textile Research, Vol.8, December 1983, 115-120.

Table No. 2 Sample No.

Hole formation between Cycle

1.

600-700

2.

600-700

3.

600-700

4.

150-200

5.

250-300

Conclusion

SHUCHI SHRIVASTAVA M.Tech Student shuchishrivastava94@gmail.com

TANVEER MALIK Assistant Professor tmalik16@gmail.com Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, SVVV, Indore

Fabric having cotton as warp and PC as weft shows better values of mechanical properties among others. And fabric having pick ratio 1:2 and 2:1 has poor performance

INDUSTRY – EDUCATION LINKAGE

TRANSFORMING TEXTILE EDUCATION THROUGH INDUSTRY – INSTITUTE LINKAGE PROGRAM Abstract Apart from the exposure given to technology revolution in textile industry, producing skilled technical cadre of engineers should also require to be focused. The practical orientation toward the upcoming technology, industrial training in new manner and the mentoring concept are needed to implement for the same. The practical knowledge, decision taking ability and the communication skills are the main hurdles in the progress path of the complete technical human being. The core problem is the lack of a systematic and coordinated approach to the educa-

18

tion reforms. Many well meaning people are addressing the symptoms in various ways today, but achieving real, sustainable progress requires a more holistic strategy.

Hence it’s the demand of present time to bridge the gap between industry and institute.

Introduction Indian textile industry is one of the leading textile industries in the world. Indian textile industry largely depends upon textile manufacturing and exports. It also plays a major role in economy of the country. The sector contributes about 14% to industrial production, 4% to the GDP

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August 2019

INDUSTRY â&#x20AC;&#x201C; EDUCATION LINKAGE and 17% to the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s export earnings. It provides direct employment to over 35 million people. The textile industry is the second largest provider of employment after agriculture.

India has the potential of increase its textile and apparel share in the world trade from current level of 4.5% to 8% and reach US$80 billion by 2020. The global technical textile industry is estimated at US$127 billion and its size in India is pegged at US$11 billion. Thus, the growth and all round development of industry has a direct bearing on the huge requirement of technocrats.

To develop this industry human need to research, invent new technology which helps to develop garments and clothing industry. Now-a-days the demand of textile education is increased because there are a large textile and garments industry in many countries which produced and develop garment so that they need technical and educated person. So many countries has a large number of textile universities, colleges and institutes which provides different types textile degree including postgraduate, undergraduate, diploma degree, etc. If anyone wants to build their carrier in textile industry, he/she should take up a textile related degree which helps them more.

Why you need Textile Education or why you study Textile?

There are so many answers for this question. If you want to build your carrier in garments industry then you should need textile education which helps in your action fields.

You need textile education because Developing strategic action plan, Handling problems related to gender issues, Evaluation and monitoring, Development of supply chain, Labor safeguard provisions, Develop product, Invent new product and textile technology, Firefighting and disaster management and so on. Industry is ever changing towards achieving excellence, better quality controls, using automated machinery, environmental consciousness and following Right First Time concept besides giving training to vocational staff from time to time.

Textile Education - Quality Assurance Quality in technical education system is pertinent to provide high quality human resources and excellence in emerging technologies. In the scenario of phasing out of the quota regime, globalization phenomenon has affected textile education as well.

Existing course curriculum is not enough to meet the challenge of competitive world market. Hence there is a need to improve the quality of various facets of textile education. In general, the ISO 9001:2000 serves this purpose and its successful implementation brings about the desired dynamism and continual improvement in textile education system.

The challenging environment in 21st century demands that textile education should be meaningful and responsive to develop a mechanism to produce dynamic

August 2019

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and technically competitive human resource in order to meet the challenges of the global world. Right and effective strategies needs to be adopted for affecting quality improvements in textile education thereby making it relevant and useful not only for the sustained growth and development of the textile institutes but also in serving the societies in a progressive way.

Parents

Feedback

Inputs

Raw Students

Teching _learning and other Supporting Processes

Teachers

Outputs

Skilled Textile Graduate

Empolyers

Supporting Resources

Figure 1. A typical model of teaching learning process in textile education

Textile Education - Quality Improvement There is no doubt that in view of the fast changing global scenario and rapid technological advancement in textiles, quality of education needs to be improved to match with the international level and to ensure the development of technically competitive human resources. Some of the measures which can be taken in this regard are: curriculum development in emerging technologies, faculty development, modernization of infrastructural facilities, better utilization of the infrastructural facilities, enhanced exposure of students to industries, building the feedback mechanisms in education system, greater autonomy to technical institutes, fostering/promotion of research aptitude in students, network between institutions, institute-industry interaction, accreditation of institutions, resource mobilization and continuing education programs.

1. Curriculum development in emerging technologies: In order to keep pace with the changing practices, textile based institutions must design curriculum based on the requirements of industry. Curriculum should be developed as and when required and industry persons should be involved.

2. Faculty development: There is the requirement of technically competent human resource with high knowledge and skill base to maintain high quality and productivity at the scale of world standard for developing and maintaining excellence of faculty for sustained growth of technical education. Periodic exposure to industry, participation in training programs, refresher courses, workshops and symposiums, facilitation to undertake research projects, participation in the faculty exchange programs in collaboration with the best national and international counterparts, inducting competent persons of repute from

19

INDUSTRY â&#x20AC;&#x201C; EDUCATION LINKAGE industry as visiting professors etc. are some of the key strategies for faculty development. Initial screening of faculty at the entry level in technical colleges and institutions as well as periodic review of individual performance is important aspect which cannot be ignored. Above measures will definitely contribute towards sustained growth of the textile institute and imparting quality technical education to the students to compete in the global textile arena.

3. Modernization and utilization of infrastructural facilities: The infrastructural facilities in textile institutions need to be upgraded and utilized through coordinated and concentrated efforts. Institutes should undertake consultancy projects from the industry and impart specialized training programs for professional engineers leading to resource generation for sustained growth of the institutions and improved reputation. Textile institutes should make best efforts for development of the appropriate infrastructure through various AICTE research and development schemes. This will facilitate to strengthen research and technology base for effective and meaningful research capabilities and interaction with industries.

Using the computers for educational purposes in the form of PPT, computer graphics and multimedia has not only made the teaching-learning process effective but also interesting and challenging. E-learning is a kind of online learning and can take place anywhere, anytime synchronously.

4. Enhanced exposure of students to industries: Inadequate industrial exposure to the students affects their ability to effectively deal with the real life industrial problems. This leads to unsatisfactory performance in professional careers. Thus, students must spend at least one full semester in industry to understand the industrial environments and prevailing practices during the project work under the supervision of capable persons. Development of required skills to understand the industrial problems and the tools and methodologies to solve those problems are the resultant gain in this process.

5. Building the feedback mechanisms in education system: In order to affect quality improvements in textile education adequate feedback mechanism from all quarters are to be gathered and critically analyzed. Thus, effectiveness of the quality of the technical education system can be judged from student reaction survey, frequent feedback from faculty and administrative staff, feedback from industry at the time of placement and after absorption, and also the response from the alumni regarding inadequacies of various programs. Deficiencies in the delivery system can be corrected towards quantum improvements in the textile education system.

20

6. Greater autonomy to technical institutes: Enhanced autonomy in various dimensions such as academic, administrative, and financial would definitely provide an opportunity to the textile institutes the means for providing industry linkages through various consultancy projects and designing of specialized training programs depending upon the requirements of the industry.

7. Fostering/Promotion of research aptitude in students: There is emergent need of revitalizing the textile education system for promoting research interest in students to build up competent technical human resource and research team matching with best in the world.

8. Networking between institutions: Quality in the textile education can be improved by establishing the synergic networks between the leading technical institutions of excellence and the developing institutions. The growing institutions can be benefited by the exposure to the latest technologies to affect improvement in the skills and knowledge base of their faculty and technicians in improved delivery of technical education.

9. Institute-industry interaction: Leading textile institutions and the industrial sector can collaborate in the joint projects for the development of emerging technologies of mutual interest. Major thrust areas can be identified by a Technology Upgradation Group involving leading academicians from technical institutions, eminent technologists from reputed industries and talented scientists from textile research associations in the country. Such an effort will surely lead to the development of state-of-the-art technologies pertaining to the industrial sector and promote the collaboration between institutes and industries.

10. Accreditation of institutions: Accreditation is the mark of the quality of technical education. Through this process an institute is evaluated by technical bodies such as NBA and grades are awarded depending upon the performance in different aspects.

The accredited institutions are to be eligible to receive research grants in various funding programs. Marketability of a textile institution is often affected by the accreditation.

11. Continuing education programs: Textile institutions should concentrate imparting quality education not only to the undergraduate and post-graduate students but also to faculty in developing institutions and technical persons working in the industry. Customized continuing education programs can be formulated on the latest technologies, concepts and practices to improve the quality of education through effective dissemination of knowledge and expertise by involving expert

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August 2019

INDUSTRY – EDUCATION LINKAGE faculty and industry professionals.

12. Mentoring concept in education: Mentoring is a professional activity, a trusted relationship, a meaningful commitment. Mentoring is of enormous value to youth development. Research shows that mentoring can help a young person develop increased selfesteem and self-confidence. It can help a young person set positive goals, enhance their feelings of identity and wellbeing, and result in better relationships and decisionmaking. It is a friendly relationship between professional from industry or institute and a student. This relationship is to be established by educational Institute to enhance the student’s career via building skills and knowledge.

Mentor is someone who is trusted adviser and Guide.

Conclusion Today a textile engineer is expected to perform research, development and design work in addition to assuming production responsibilities. He must be capable of evaluating new projects, competitive bids and of carrying out economic analysis at an advanced level. They are expected to be qualified in the supervision of the operation of the plants. Their responsibilities range from the evaluation of raw materials to the competitive marketing of finished products.

The number of textile engineers produced each year does not reflect the size of the industry. “Textile engineering offers decidedly more opportunities to graduates than most other engineering disciplines.

PROF. TUSHAR C. PATIL Assistant Professor, CTF MPSTME, SVKM’S NMIMS, Shirpur

Textile technologists work closely with chemical engineers to develop new materials for a variety of purposes.

Textile engineering has received relatively less attention from young people entering technical colleges - it lacks the gloss of some of the other fields, although the opportunities it presents are perhaps similar. As in any branch of applied science, the scope of opportunity lies in the way you look at the field, and what you choose to do with the knowledge you gain.

References: 1. Gotmare V.D., Some interesting observations and education to textile shop-floor persons, The Textile Association, 73 (6), 2013.

2. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/9/847/ quality-assurance-in-textile-education6.asp (Quality Management) 3. http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/ newsdetails.aspx?news_id=84863.

4. Paneerselvam A., Can the teachers be replaced with new technologies, GCTE J. Research and Extension in Education, 7(1), 2012.

5. Claudio Zaki Dib, Formal, non-formal and informal education: concepts/applicability, Interamerican Conference on Physics Education”, Oaxtepec, Mexico, 1987.

6.

B. Holmberg, “Status and Trends of Distance Education”, Kogan Page, London, 1981.

PROF. NITIN CHAUDHARI Head – Atal Tinkering Lab, R.C. Patel Education Society, Shirpur

PROF. R.D. PARSI

DR. P. P. RAICHURKAR

Assistant Professor, CTF MPSTME, SVKM’S NMIMS, Shirpur

Associate Dean, CTF MPSTME, SVKM’S NMIMS, Shirpur

PROF. TUSHAR A. SHINDE Assistant Professor, CTF MPSTME, SVKM’S NMIMS, Shirpur

August 2019

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21

NON WOVEN FOCUS

COTTON / TEXTILES V/S ARTIFICIAL TEXTILE NAMES: PP NON -WOVEN Cotton had been and mostly has been always in short supplies as against demand and to fill the gape, the government of INDIA subsidized manufacturing of technical textile and PP non-woven came up fast to fill the gape for the carry / shopping bags, curtains / many of the hospital applications like use and throw bedsheets, liners for clothes, outer packaging of Suits and sarees and many such applications BUT very close to textiles.

Centralized Control for the knowledge sharing on use of plastics: A SERIOUS NEED OF THE TIME. We see at various state and municipal corporation levels, at NGO levels, people trying too initiate various ‘BAN’ on plastics, After Assembly elections and after trying to spit on Government, nothing more is left to some, to do now.

Raipur of CG a recent example: They say “White / colored, CHINESE NON-WOVEN bags” to Non-woven carry / shopping bags! They think such bags are dangerous and They have named such PP bags as ‘CHINESE’! Paucity of proper Education on plastics and dangerous plastics is a serious issue in some places [ Not in Delhi/Mumbai/ Ahmedabad/ Bangalore…..] The so-called environmentalists are now mushrooming all over and check their basic Degree of education. This is dangerous and not plastic.

The article in New paper says: It is plastic Carry Bag, made of polypropylene. NON-WOVEN made such bags are made from substances are harmful to Humans/insects-animals and trees/plants! Further the newspaper says that: The matter released While making and while de-composing and burning, cause pollution which further can cause cancer/ Asthma and skin disease. As also they say: To keep food items in the printed carry bags can cause bad effect on health. GOD SAVE THIS COUNTRY. This is why I am mentioning ‘EDUCATION”. How come PP bag is harmful? It is not harmful when manufactured or use or re-cycled. PP Spunbond non-woven fabric making was getting government Subsidy because we cannot make cotton enough for all the cloths/ curtains/bedsheets for all in INDIA. It can be used for many times and then can be fully re-cycled. It is made up of PP+CaCO3 and masterbatch for color which is also plastic +CaCO3.

Do the person/ s writing in newspapers are aware of this?

Now it is up to the Central Government to take over and have Intelligent and nicely educated people to take over this Packaging issue seriously and STOP All sorts of Banning before some economically viable alternate is offered to the Nation. There are options to re-cycle plastic and it can be re-cycled ‘n; number of times with addition of virgin plastic each time. Why some so-called environmentalists are allowed to mid-lead people at large, just to run

22

their Anti-national shop?

No country can do away without plastic/s. It is not harmful for such usages. And remember ban on Gutkha pack ban? Because the poor small pack was made up of LD/ LLD+ Metalized BOPP/BOPET + Reversed printed BOPP/ BOPET? Which cannot be re-cycled practically. So how about Namkeen-Bhujiya and thousands of such other packs? Why Gutkha was not banned when it was harmful? This is INDIA. Education is the cause everywhere.

And plastic ban? MY FOOT. Check everywhere in the country still. Less than 15 mm carry bags are still too common courtesy Corrupt officers and anti-national manufacturers everywhere. And it is the people of INDIA who need cheaper things at even cost of the Nation.

Again, the root cause is Education. Forget schools now, JUST adult human units cannot accept or digest costlier packaging or carry media, so no need to go to school to teach such things. The solution is getting something reasonably economical media to pack and carry things in to, THENAFTER BAN Anything. And first of all, instruct all the so-called environmentalists and NGOs not to pock their illiterate nose in to such National Issues.

PP non-woven has assisted to fill the huge gape on cotton. It is replacing many applications of cotton but it cannot be a threat in INDIA courtesy some such self-styled environmentalists and their readers in Rural or semi-rural sectors in the country. And so this is for the cotton textile manufacturers to cheer for. Terming PP as plastic shall keep on coming up like this at some or the other places in the country for some to run their shops and bans shall keep on applying to such USEFUL and non-harmful plastic, frequently.

KAMAL SHAH

kamal@positiveaggression.in

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August 2019

YARN REPORT

BASIC TEXTILES SHIPMENT PLUNGES 25% IN JULY In July, total shipment of basic textile comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns plunged 25% in US$ terms and INR terms as against 52% registered in June. During July, exports were worth US$398 million or INR2,707 crore, account-ing for about 1.5% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. A year ago, the same items had ac-counted for 2% of total merchandised export. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weakened from INR67.87 to INR68.10 this July, which should generally boost export.

Cotton export down 83%

Cotton exports volume was down to only 96 thousand bales (170 kg each) this July as against close to 2.8 lakh bales exported in the same month of previous marketing year (2017-18) and 62 thousand bales in the previous month. Shipment in US$ term declined by 83% YoY. Bangladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton in July, followed by Iran and Bahrain. Vietnam was fourth largest market. No cotton shipment was noted to China, which was one of the largest importer of Indian cotton in recent months.

Cotton yarn export declines 40% in July Spun yarns shipment totaled 82 million kg (down 32%) worth US$246 million (down 36%) implying an average unit value realization of US$3.02 per kg, down US cents 20 from a year ago average. Bangladesh remained the largest market for spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value.

Cotton yarn export was at 62 million kg worth US$192 million (INR1,305 crore), down more than 40% from a year ago level. 77 countries imported cotton yarn from India at an average price of US$3.09 a kg, down US cents 10 from previous month and US cents 20 from last year.

China reemerged as the top cotton yarn market, but imported 77% lesser cotton yarn from India this July. During the month, export to China was 12 million kg worth US$31 million only. China was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value declining more than 35% year on year. Egypt and Peru were the other major importers of cotton yarn, with former recording 8% increase in value and latter jumping 16%. Nine countries did not import any cotton yarn from India this July and they had im-

August 2019

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ported yarn worth US$1.13 million in July 2018. However, they replaced by 12 other countries which imported yarn worth only US$0.70 million.

Iran, Nepal and Brazil were among top fastest major importers of cotton yarn in July while Cambodia has significantly reduced its imports compared to last year.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports continued to show increases in July (23%), extending the trend seem in June.

They comprised 3.8 million kg of polyester yarn, 2.3 million kg of viscose yarn and 2.2 million kg of acrylic yarn.

The expansion was led by acrylic and viscose yarn, which increased both in terms of value and volumes. Polyester

yarn exports declined 2% in US$ term during the month but volume expanded 5%.

Polyester spun yarns export was worth US$8.87 million and were exported to 46 countries at average unit price of US$2.33 a kg, down US cents 6 from last month and down US cents 17 from last year. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Iran and USA. Viscose yarn worth US$7.60 million or INR52 crore was exported in July at an average price of US$3.27 per kg.

Iran was the top importer worth US$1.72 million, followed

by Belgium and Turkey. Sri Lanka was the fourth largest importer of viscose yarn during the month.

Blended spun yarns worth US$32 million were exported in July, down 18% YoY. During the month, 5.9 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$15.3 million while 3.9 million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$12 million.

Egypt, Bangladesh and Turkey, were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Iran.

All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled 60 million kg (up 12%. YoY), valued at US$99 million (down 3%. YoY).

Only nylon and polypropylene filament yarn export was positive in value terms and also showed substantial increases.

NITIN MADKAIKAR

Textile Beacon

23

SURAT REPORT CLEARENCE OF PENDING GST ITC, REFUND OF 1400 CRORE WILL BOOST MODERNIZATION Recently, union finance minister Nirmala Sitharaman has announced to release all GST refunds pending to MSME sector within 30 days. The powerloom industry welcomes this decesion as they are demanding ITC payment since two years. Weavers of the city believes that if the all the pending ITC, refund of 1400 crore would be released before Diwali, the powerloom owner will come out from working capital issue and the process of modernization will gear up in the industry.

Former secretery of powerloom industry association, Mayurbhai said, the powerloom MSME units in the textile sector are the backbone of the textile industry. The release of ITC refund within 30 days is a bold decision taken by the Union finance minister. The struggling micro, small and medium enterprises (MSME) sector will come out of severe liquidity crisis. This will help powerloom industry to get full pending refund of Rs1,400 crore. With the support of this fund, the industry owner will upgrade their machinery.

Now, along with this announcement, the weavers want the government to revoke the earlier notification stating that ITC refund will lapse. Earlier, after representation by weavers, the government amended the notification on June 28, 2017 allowing refund from August 12018 but with condition that all the accumulated ITC up to July 31, 2018 will lapse. This was recently set aside by high court.

The weavers of the city want revocation of the amended notification on GST refund lapse issued in 2017.

WEAVERS DEMANDS 5 CRORE FUND FOR YARN BANK The powerloom industry is demanding increasing the fund allocation for both of the yarn banks of the city. Under Power Tax India scheme, the present corpus fund for yarn banks is Rs 2 crore. To procure yarn at concessional rates, the powerloom weavers are demanding increasing the corpus fund from Rs 2 crore to Rs 5 crore.+ City based Ved Road Art Silk Small Scale Co-operative Federation and Pandesara Weavers Co-operative Society are operating yarn banks in the city. These two special purpose vehicles were set up by the Union ministry of textiles before five years. Surat has around 5.5 lakh powerloom machines producing three crore metres of fabrics every day.

24

The objective of yarn bank is to provide an opportunity to the weavers to arrest price fluctuation in synthetic and other yarn. The yarn banks allow the weavers to procure yarn on credit and repay it in instalments. These banks were started with an initial corpus fund of Rs 1 crore for purchasing yarn from the open market and selling these at concessional rates to the bank’s initial 1,000 member weavers.

Last week, Assistant secretary of textile ministry, Snehal Lokhande, was in the city for feedback review of the PowerTex India scheme. The weavers of the city has submitted a memorandum, seeking increasing the corpus fund for the yarn banks from Rs 2 crore to Rs 5 crore. They have also demanded release subsidy amount, under the Technology Upradation Fund (TUF) scheme of the central government. They said that with the delay in release of the subsidy amount, many of them are facing difficulties in repaying bank loans.

YARN EXPO : BUSINESS WORTH RS 400 CRORE RECEIVED, WITNESSED MORE THAN 25,000 VISITORS Business orders worth Rs 400 crore were received by the yarn manufacturers and dealers at the three-day “Yarn Expo 2019”, which concluded in the city on 5 August, organisers claimed. The 2nd edition of event, was organised by The Southern Gujarat Chambers of Commerce & Industry (SGCCI) witnessed more than 25,000 visitors from india and overseas. Around 100 exhibitors participated in expo and have displayed wide varieties of yarn.

The fashion show and seminar was also organised during the event.

President of SGCCI, Ketan Desai said, compared to the last edition, we had much potential buyers on board for Yarn Expo 2019, ensuring good business to the sellers.

We received an immense response from the buyers and sellers during registration as this was the third second year of business-to-business meet,” Well-known domestic yarn manufacturers has showcased their latest yarn products at the three-day exhibition. Along with the Polyester, nylon, cotton, viscose yarn, various types of fancy and specialty yarns like elastic, metallic, embroidery, textured, slub, dyed spun, recycled polyester and sportswear yarn varieties were displayed in the event.

SGCCI exhibition committee head, Devesh Patel said, The participants of the last editions had a good impression and they spread out to the community. The promotional activities held for the event got a good response with new buyers coming on board. It was announced that 3rd edition of yarn expo will organised during August, 2020.

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August 2019

ASSOCIATION NEWS

CITI DEMANDS ROSCTL FOR YARN AND FABRIC EXPORTS The Indian Textile and Apparel Industry, the largest Industrial Employer of the Indian Economy today suffers from various infirmities and thus lack export competitiveness in the international markets”, said Shri Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, CITI. Mr. Jain stated that CITI analysis of the quick estimates of Exports of T&A for July 2019 shows that there is an increase in the exports of Apparel while exports of Cotton Yarn and Fabrics have declined by 9.98% and 10.54%, respectively on Year-On-Year and cumulative basis, as shown below in Table-1.

Table-1: CITI Analysis of Exports of T&A for July 2019 (In US$ Million)

Table-2: India’s Exports of Textiles & Apparels Table-2: India’s Exports of Textiles & Apparels Value India’s Exports (US$ Bn) Global Ranking 2017

2018

2017

2018

Textiles

19.9

21.4

3rd

3rd

Apparels

17.3

15.7

6th

6th

T&A Combined

37.2

37.1

2nd

5th

Source: ITC Trade Map

Particulars Cotton Yarn/Fabs./madeups, Handloom Products, etc.

Man-made Yarn/Fabs./made-ups etc.

Jute Mfg. including Floor Covering Carpet Handicrafts excl. handmade carpet Textiles Apparel Textile and Apparel

824.01

% Change -9.98%

Apr'18July'18 3738.99

Apr'19July'19 3344.86

% Change -10.54%

376.39

399.32

6.09%

1616.61

1554.31

-3.85%

28.90

30.58

5.81%

104.98

109.13

3.95%

112.77 150.54

123.40 151.68

9.43% 0.76%

467.02 594.53

469.39 614

0.51% 3.27%

1584.01 1274.65 2858.66

1528.99 1364.67 2893.66

-3.47% 7.06% 1.22%

6522.13 5320.49 11842.62

6091.69 5535.09 11626.78

-6.60% 4.03% -1.82%

July-18

July-19

915.41

Source: DGCI&S and Press Information Bureau Mr. Jain pointed out that the change in the trends of exports of Apparel and Cotton Yarn/ Fabrics is mainly due to the Scheme “Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL)” announced by the Government of India in March 2019 for the Apparel and Made-ups. RoSCTL scheme has been introduced to provide reimbursement of Central and State Taxes to make sure that taxes are not exported along with the products. However, Yarn and Fabric Segments have been kept out of the same, hence both the sectors are at present suffering badly and exports are declining while others for which RoSCTL is granted have shown growth. Its pertinent to note that some categories like Cotton Yarn has seen a Year-On-Year fall of 35% in exports in the first quarter of the Financial Year while in June month only it was at a staggering 50% low.

CITI Chairman also pointed out that there is a downfall in India’s position in global T&C exports (Table-2). India, which was the world’s second largest exporter of T&C

August 2019

products in 2014-17 after China, fell to 5th position in 2018 as Germany, Bangladesh and Vietnam stepped in.

Further, India is also witnessing a substantial increase in T&C imports during the past five years (Table-3).

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Table-3: India’s E xports & Imports of T&C (US$ Bn)

Particulars Exports Imports Share of T&A in Total Exports Share of T&A in Industrial Production

FY 15

FY 19

% Change

37.7

37.5

- 0.4%

6.0

7.4

22.8%

12.1%

11.4%

14%

7%

Source: DGCI&S & Ministry of Textiles

Mr Jain stated that the space vacated by China in T&C products has been largely consumed by Bangladesh, Vietnam, Pakistan and others LDCs. While, India on the other hand, has not been able to capture the space vacated by China due to its competitive disadvantages and trade barriers in the international markets.

25

ASSOCIATION NEWS Mr. Jain further stated that the obvious reasons for lacking export competitiveness in the international markets are the high costs of raw materials and embedded State and Central taxes which are not refunded to the exporters at any stage, amongst others. This makes our intermediate and final products costlier. The estimated calculations shows that Cotton Yarn and Fabrics has non refunded taxes 5 to 6% of FOB value, and this is where Indian products lack export competitiveness to our immediate competitors like China, Vietnam, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, etc. Many of our competitors, especially the Least Developed Countries (LDCs) have the advantage of differential duties in major export markets like USA, EU, China and India as well.

CITI Chairman makes an earnest appeal to the Hon’ble Prime Minister of India, Shri Narendra Modi Ji and to the

Government of India to extend the benefits of currently announced RoSCTL to the Yarn and Fabric Segments as well to help the textile Industry to boost up its export competitiveness in the international markets to achieve higher growth trajectory and generate more employment opportunities to the masses, especially youths and women workforce.

Mr Jain concluded by saying, India has all the potential to become a super-power in Textile and Apparel and is second to none in terms of technological advancement and quality of the products, however, it requires the Government support through policy reforms to make it not only globally competitive but an Epicentre – Make In India – for sourcing textile products, which is also one of the biggest dreams of our Hon’ble Prime Minister.

INDA AND EDANA RELEASE TRIENNIAL RESEARCH REPORT A new report published by the two leading nonwoven trade associations forecasts strong market demand for nonwovens materials through the next five years, according to the Worldwide Outlook for the Nonwovens Industry, 2018-2023.

The sixth edition of the report is now available for purchase from both INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, and EDANA, the International Association Serving the Nonwovens and Related Industries.

Among the highlights of the report: • In the historical period (2008–2018) production increased 5.7%, led by growth in spunbond/spunmelt and dry laid hydroentanglement.

• China leads the growth in production, adding an additional 3.3 million tonnes from the end of 2008 through to 2018, representing a 10.8% annual growth rate.

• Across the nonwoven end use segments, transportation and wipes production expanded at the fastest rates, while absorbent hygiene applications recorded the highest incremental volume, with 1.3 million tonnes.

“The worldwide nonwovens industry’s prospects are excellent and it remains an exciting industry in which to be involved,” said the report’s co-authors Jacques Prigneaux, Market Analysis and Economic Affairs Director at EDANA and Brad Kalil, Director of Market Intelligence and Economic Affairs at INDA. This comprehensive new report provides in-depth information and analysis of global nonwoven macro drivers; supply and demand forecasts and statistics; and regional trade analysis; among other topics.

The report includes detailed regional information and forecasts on production, technology and investment requirements for North America, Greater Europe, Asia and

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the South America region. The report further features regional views of economic growth, population, product by end use, and trade flows. Other key topics include raw material usage and a detailed appendix.

“As strategic partners, INDA and EDANA are committed to promoting the sustained growth of the nonwovens industry. This report provides the industry’s best estimates on future demand by the key nonwoven segments predicated on sound macro-economic analysis,” said INDA President Dave Rousse. “The Worldwide Outlook report is an essential planning resource for all those involved in global strategic planning for nonwovens across the supply chain.”

“With the remarkable growth and global success of nonwovens, both industry insiders among our member companies and outsiders, from financial analysts to potential investors, require more than ever reliable sources of market information as well as forward-looking data. This new report issued by our two leading nonwovens industry associations builds on decades of experience, and of close observation and direct data collection from hundreds of companies,” said EDANA General Manager Pierre Wiertz.

“Produced by the industry for the industry, this is therefore a unique tool and a more legitimate and reliable source of data than any other report about nonwovens.”

The report is available for purchase now and delivery starting on August 15, 2019. For more information or to purchase, contact: •INDA: Cindy Garcia, cgarcia@inda.org, (919) 459-3711, or visit https://imisw.inda.org/store/ • EDANA: Jacques Prigneaux, Market Analysis and Economic Affairs Director, +32 2740 1818, jacques.prigneaux@edana.org, or visit https://www.edana.org/newsroom/reports-publications/reports-andpublications-overview

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August 2019

POST EVENT REPORT

DENIM TALKS HIGHLIGHTS GLOBAL FASHION BRAND PERSPECTIVES IN LINE WITH CIRCULAR FASHION From fashion conscious to conscious fashion – the 2nd edition of Denim Talks was all about bringing denim industry in line with circular fashion. The one-day forum which took place at the Denim Show at Gartex Texprocess India in New Delhi witnessed fashion and industry leaders sharing insights, experiences and global perspectives to keep the Indian denim industry on top of the game, sustainable and globally competitive.

report by its Knowledge Partner - Wazir Advisors who indicated: “In five years, we are expecting denim consumption to almost double. India’s denim fabric exports have increased at a CAGR of five percent in last six years to reach USD 410 million.” Bangladesh over the last decade has been the biggest market for Indian denim fabric with a 50%+ share in India’s exports for six years running, highlighted the report.

When it comes to fashion apparels and garment segment, denim is the biggest rage in India and globally, and the Indian denim industry has sharply capitalised by moving forward with innovative fashion trends. But while fashion dominates the production, the forum played an important role in highlighting Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and raw material alternatives for denim industry with Bombay Hemp as one such company working towards bringing Hemp as a sustainable substitute into focus. 35% of the jeans today are made more sustainable, much larger than any other segment in the fashion sector highlighting the significant role of the denim industry in bringing circularity and sustainability in fashion.

Denim apparel is one of the fastest growing segments in the Indian apparel market, with a double digit growth forecast. During the recent Denim Talks held in the capital, industry stakeholders including fashion brands such as Pepe Jeans, Jack & Jones, Mandhana Retail Ventures Ltd (Being Human Clothing), Raymond UCO Denim, Reliance Industries, Ginni International among others came together with Denim Manufacturers’ Association to discuss the potential of denim, its prospective application areas, possible alternatives and how Indian denim industry can get in line with sustainability and circular fashion.

On the sidelines of Denim Talks, Mr Sharad Jaipuria, President, Denim Manufacturers’ Association & CMD, Ginni International Ltd shared “Indian denim industry currently stands at USD 3.6 billion, and has been growing at a CAGR of 9% over the last five years. The industry is expected to grow at CAGR of 11% in the next five years. The steady growth is credited to the rise in consumerism, bridging luxury gap and advancements in denim fashion which have given the segment a major boost. Fashion industry globally is perceived as less environment friendly, and denim manufacturers today must take the lead in embracing sustainability which needs to be imbibed in the entire textile value chain.”

The forum, which brought together a delegation of 99 professionals, also saw the unveiling of a denim industry

August 2019

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The speakers at the forum delved deeper into what it means to bring sustainable fashion with denim and the potential of Indian market for sustainable clothing. Already working in this sphere through her international brand Doodlage, Ms Kriti Tula, Co-Founder & Creative Director remarked: “Fashion is a 3 trillion USD industry.

Only 2% is getting recycled today. We need to have brands that talk about the impact of fashion. The Indian market for fashion conscious accounts to 440 million millennials, which accounts for almost 34% of India.”

Mr Ravikant Prakash, Design Head- India, Arvind Ltd, “I have seen a great change in buying preferences of consumers. While trends definitely dominate choices, consumers today also want to see a story – where has the

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POST EVENT REPORT garment come from, what processes has it undergone, how has the brand integrated sustainability and so on.

Denim is one fabric where reusing makes it more beautiful and that’s a trend that will stay on.”

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With India standing as the second largest manufacturer in this sector, denim brands are keeping an eye on the domestic and global trends of the fashion-conscious consumer. Out of 51 mills in India, 34 were present at the Denim Show making it the largest denim industry show of its kind. Besides the exhibition and summit, the organis-

ers also unveiled a denim-wrapped car as a star attraction together with denim guitar, handbags and several utility products at the trend zone highlighting diverse denim applications that the industry can focus on.

As brands gear up to design the future of denim, the Denim Talks will continue its focus on bringing domestic and global trends to the fore with the next edition slated at the Denim Show at Gartex Texprocess India in March 2020 in the fashion-capital – Mumbai.

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August 2019

POST EVENT REPORT

SIMA TEXFAIR 2019 & FARM TO FINISH EXPO 2019 The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), Coimbatore organized Texfair 2019 – largest expo of textile machinery, spares, accessories and other supporting services and Farm to Finish Expo 2019 – expo showcased right from raw material to finished products during August 9-12, 2019 at CODISSIA Trade Fair Complex, Coimbatore.

At the Texfair expo machinery, spares manufacturers / suppliers and other supporting service providers from China, Japan, Switzerland, Italy and USA apart from domestic players across the country catering to the various segments of the textile industry showcased their products and services.

At the Farm to Finish Expo, various varieties of cotton, man-made fibres, regenerated fibres, various types of yarn, cloth samples, fabrics, made-ups, garments, and special clothings like sports wear, baggages, etc were exhibited by the textile mills across the country. Texfair 2019 is Twelfth edition in its series and the Farm to Finish Expo 2019 is the fourth edition.

At the inaugural function held on 9th August 2019, SIMA Chairman Shri P Nataraj welcomed the Chief Guest, Dr K V Srinivasan, Chairman, The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), Mumbai, Shri Ajay D Shah, President of Textile Machinery and Mill Stores Merchants Association (TMMSMA), Coimbatore, Mr.Jugal Kishore Pansari, President of Indian Textile Accessories and Machinery Manufacturers’ Association (ITAMMA), Mumbai and the Exhibitors to the inaugural function. During his Welcome Address, SIMA Chairman briefed about Texfair 2019 and Farm to Finish Expo 2019. Shri Ajay D Shah and Shri Jugal Kishore Pansari offered felicitations. Vice-Chairman Shri Ashwin Chandran delivered vote of thanks.

In his inaugural address, the Chief Guest, Dr K V Srinivasan stated that the Central and State governments should support the textile industry, which is passing through a crisis, with measures to improve the sector’s competitiveness. He said that the factors such as poor demand in the export and domestic markets, lack of skilled labour and high raw material cost were affecting the textile units.

He further said that exports of yarn, fabric and made ups grew over 50% from 2008 to 2018, however, in 2019, the yarn exports saw a steep decline especially in June this year was the lowest in the last five years. He said that China also gave duty free access to Pakistan from this April apart from Bangladesh and Vietnam, who were already enjoying this benefit. He said that in a falling market, the tariff difference of 4% is significant and sustain competitiveness of the textile industry. As it generates employment in large numbers, the Union Government should refund taxes and duties paid for export of all textile products. He requested the government to re-introduce the interest subvention scheme.

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The expos provided an opportunity for various clusters of the industry to know the latest improvements in technology and availability of domestic as well as import substitution spares. 250 exhibitors showcased their products and services in 320 stalls. Out of 250 exhibitors, 120 exhibitors have participated in more than five Texfair Expos.

The Expos attracted about one lakh visitors and created business worth around Rs.1000 crores. Business visitors from countries like China, Indonesia, Thailand, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka visited the Expo and derived the benefit, besides the visitors from all over the country.

We thank all the exhibitors for showcasing their products and services, the CEOs of mills for visiting and deputing their technical personnel and also visitors from various textile clusters across the State and making the Expos yet another success event.

We are optimistic that with the Union Government’s initiatives of “Make in India”, Skill India” and other initiatives (DBT, GST, etc) and recovery of the global economy, Indian Textile Industry would increase its share in global Textile & Clothing business.

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SUSTAINABLE FASHION

THE WTO AND THE SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT GOALS The WTO is central to achieving the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development and its Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), which set targets to be achieved by 2030 in areas such as poverty reduction, health, education and the environment. The SDGs put significant emphasis on the role that trade plays in promoting sustainable development and recognize the contribution that the WTO can make to the 2030 Agenda.

Introduction By delivering and implementing trade reforms which are pro-growth and pro-development, and by continuing to foster stable, predictable and equitable trading relations across the world, the WTO is playing an important role in delivering the SDGs, just as it did with the Millennium Development Goals before them.

How trade contributes to delivering key Sustainable Development Goals

SDG 1: No Poverty There is increasing evidence that well planned and strategically executed trade policy initiatives can impact positively on sustainable poverty reduction. Trade opening has also generated higher living standards through greater productivity, increased competition and more choice for consumers and better prices in the marketplace.

SDG 2: Zero Hunger Eliminating subsidies that cause distortions in agriculture markets will lead to fairer more competitive markets helping both farmers and consumers while contributing to food security. The WTO’s 2015 decision on export competition eliminated export subsidies in agriculture, thereby delivering on Target 2.B of this goal.

SDG 3: Good Health and Well-being One of the main objectives under SDG 3 is to ensure access to affordable medicines for all. An important amendment to the WTO’s TRIPS Agreement recently entered into force. This measure will make it easier for developing countries to have a secure legal pathway to access affordable medicines in line with Target 3.B of this goal.

SDG 5: Gender Equality Trade can create opportunities for women’s employment and economic development. Through trade, job opportunities for women have increased significantly. Jobs in export sectors also tend to have better pay and conditions.

Export sectors are an important job provider for women in developing countries.

SDG 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth

try’s income-generating capacity, which is one of the essential prerequisites for achieving sustainable development. The WTO’s Aid for Trade initiative can make a big difference in supplementing domestic efforts in building trade capacity, and SDG 8 contains a specific target for countries to increase support under this initiative.

SDG 9: Industry, Innovation and Infrastructure Trade produces dynamic gains in the economy by increasing competition and the transfer of technology, knowledge and innovation. Open markets have been identified as a key determinant of trade and investment between developing and developed countries allowing for the transfer of technologies which result in industrialization and development, helping to achieve SDG 9.

SDG 10: Reduced Inequalities At the global level, changes in development patterns have been transforming prospects of the world’s poorest people, decreasing inequality between countries. WTO rules try to reduce the impact of existing inequalities through the principle of Special and Differential Treatment for Developing Countries. This allows the use of flexibilities by developing and least-developed countries to take into account their capacity constraints.

SDG 14: Life Below Water The WTO plays an important role in supporting global, regional and local efforts to tackle environmental degradation of our oceans under SDG 14. The Decision on Fisheries Subsidies taken by WTO members in December 2017 is a step forward in multilateral efforts to comply with SDG Target 14.6, committing members to prohibit subsidies that contribute to overcapacity and overfishing, and eliminate subsidies that contribute to illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing, with special and differential treatment for developing and least-developed countries.

Members committed to fulfilling this commitment by the 12th Ministerial Conference.

SDG 17: Partnerships for the Goals SDG 17 recognizes trade as a means of implementation for the 2030 Agenda. The targets under this goal call for: countries to promote a universal, rules-based, open, nondiscriminatory and equitable multilateral trading system; the increase of developing countries’ exports and doubling the share of exports of least-developed countries (LDCs); and the implementation of duty-free and quotafree market access for LDCs with transparent and simple rules of origin for exported goods. The WTO is the key channel for delivering these goals.

Trade-led inclusive economic growth enhances a coun-

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August 2019

SUSTAINABLE FASHION TEXTILES MINISTER LAUNCHES PROJECT SU.RE, A JOINT INITIATIVE OF CMAI AND IMG RELIANCE ON SUSTAINABLE FASHION DAY AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK WINTER FESTIVE 2019 ~Project SU.RE is Indian Apparel Industry’s largest commitment to move towards sustainable fashion~ The Union Minister for Textiles, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani launched Project SU.RE, a move towards Sustainable Fashion, at Lakmé Fashion Winter/Festive 2019, in Mumbai on 22nd August 2019. The Project has been launched by the Hon’ble Minister, along with the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI); United Nations in India; and IMG Reliance, the Organizers of Lakmé Fashion Week. Project SU.RE is an Initiative by CMAI, the Largest Apparel Industry Association and IMG Reliance, the Leader in Sustainable Fashion movement in India.

The SU.RE Project is a commitment by India’s Apparel Industry to set a sustainable pathway for the Indian Fashion Industry. SU.RE stands for ‘Sustainable Resolution’ - a firm commitment from the Industry to move towards Fashion that contributes to a clean Environment.

Addressing the gathering, the Hon’ble Textiles Minister said: “As a proud Indian, I stand here today to Witness history. I would like to tell the United Nations that this has become possible due to the Initiative of the Industry, CMAI, IMG Reliance and Lakmé Fashion Week. We are celebrating the 150th Birth Anniversary year of Mahatma Gandhi, who asked us to be the change you wish to see in the World. The sustainability resolution being adopted today is reflective of that very thought of the Mahatma.

Never before have 16 of the biggest Brands of India come together to save the Earth. The combined Industry Value of the 16 Signatories to the Resolution is around 30,000 Crore Rupees. Everything we consume, we have to consume responsibly. The step taken today makes for not only responsible business but also smart business. The Sustainability Report 2018 states that sustainability is the 4th criterion considered by consumers while choosing Products. I am grateful that UN in India is also here to Support this endeavor. Best Wishes for this amalgamation and confluence of what is purely Indian thought.”

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Rahul Mehta, President of The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India said: “In the past, several products and processes of our Industry were not Environmentfriendly. It is a tremendously responsible and timely step taken by the Apparel Industry of India, especially the Signatories, to commit to move towards Sustainable Fashion. It is a matter of pride for us at CMAI to be associated with and be One of the drivers of this most crucial Resolution.”

As Leaders and Representatives of the Industry, the Signatories to the pledge for Project SU.RE are Sixteen of India’s Top Fashion and Retail Brands and CMAI Members such as Future Group, Shopper’s Stop, Aditya Birla Retail, Arvind Brands, Lifestyle, Max, Raymond, House of Anita Dongre, W, Biba, Westside, 109F, Spykar, Levi’s, Bestsellers, and Trends among others. The Signatories have pledged to source/utilize a substantial portion of their Total Consumption using sustainable Raw materials and Processes, by the year 2025.

Renata Lok-Dessallien, Resident Coordinator, United Nations in India said: “The future of design is foremost about design with a future. Without sustainable supply chains, the Fashion Industry will become less and less viable. Project SU.RE opens a new dialogue to accelerate concrete actions for sustainability and climate action, and reduce environmental costs, through the entire Value Chain of Clothes Manufacturing. I congratulate the 30 Brands and Companies that have signed on to Project SU.RE.”

Mr. Jaspreet Chandok, Vice President and Head of Fashion, IMG Reliance said: “This is a culmination of our stated goal towards making sustainability a mainstream conversation. This Initiative will be the start of a movement that can have massive impact and we hope to see significant change to come through over the next Five Years as major Retailers move towards embracing sustainability at

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SUSTAINABLE FASHION their core.”

The launch of Project SU.RE at Lakmé Fashion Week was supported by the Lenzing EcoVero that stands for ecologically responsible production of viscose fibre made from the renewable & certified raw material wood, and R Elan that produces Green Gold fibre made from 100% used PET bottles with one of the lowest fibre carbon footprints globally.

The Five point Sustainable Resolution are as follows: 1. Develop a complete understanding of the environmental impact of the Garments being currently produced by our Brand.

2. Develop a sustainable sourcing policy for consistently prioritising and utilising certified raw materials that have a positive impact on the environment.

3. Make the right decisions about how, where, and what we source across the Value Chain by selecting sustainable and renewable materials and processes and ensuring their traceability.

4. Communicate our sustainability Initiatives effectively to Consumers and Media through our Online and Physical Stores, Product Tags/Labeling, Social Media, Advertising campaigns and Events.

5. Through these actions shift a significant percentage of our supply chain to a sustainable chain by the year

2025, addressing critical Global Issues such as Climate change, contributing to the UN Sustainable Development Goals, and building a world that is safe for the future generations, as an acceptance of a responsibility we all share.

This pledge will send a strong message to various Stakeholders and Producers in the Apparel Supply Chain and encourage a larger sustainable approach to production that reduces the impact on environmental and social dimensions. It will address the needs of an increasingly conscious consumer, who would prefer to Buy from a brand that engages in environmental protection. It will also underline the need for collaboration across the sector in order to bring about innovation and transformative change.

Project SU.RE aims to contribute to the UN Sustainable Development Goals 2030, especially SDG12 for responsible Consumption and Production.

Project SU.RE, driven by CMAI and IMG Reliance will be the First holistic effort by the Apparel Industry towards gradually introducing a broader framework for establishing critical sustainability goals for the Industry to reduce its carbon emissions, increase resource efficiency, tackle Waste and Water management, and create positive social impact to achieve its long-term sustainability targets

NEWS

NORDSTROM’S NEW SHOP IS A MAJOR GAMECHANGER FOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION This could be the beginning of the end of your fast-fashion addiction.

Discovering the best eco-friendly brands just became a whole lot easier. Nordstrom officially announced that it’s joining the G7 Fashion Pact, a global group of 37 luxury retailers that are working to minimize the negative impact fashion has on the planet.

So what does this all mean for Nordy shoppers? Well, Nordstrom launched Sustainable Style on its website.

It’s a shopping category that highlights brands using ecofriendly manufacturing processes as well as those with high social responsibility standards. In the Sustainable Style section, you’ll also find labels that give back and are using materials that are sustainably sourced.

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There are more than 2,000 products, from the prettiest dresses to cool sneakers, and plenty of items ring in under $100.

“Nordstrom leads with the fundamental belief that we have a responsibility to leave the world better than we found it,” Gigi Ganatra, VP of corporate affairs and PR at Nordstrom, explains in a release. “In the fast-changing world of retail, it’s also essential to continually evolve our business not only to better meet customers’ needs and expectations, but also to support our communities and protect our environment.”

Nordstrom’s also working hard to make its own supply chain process a bit more eco-friendlier, reducing materials used to ship items and helping customers donate clothes.

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August 2019

SUSTAINABLE FASHION CIRCULAR DESIGN CHALLENGE WINNER “I WAS A SARI” WOWED THE AUDIENCE AT THE STUDIO DURING LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK WINTER/FESTIVE 2019 From over 900 entries, leading to eight finalists, ‘I was a Sari’ emerged as the winner of the first sustainability award in fashion – the Circular Design Challenge, launched in partnership with “Fashion For Earth” initiative by Reliance Industries Limited’s (RIL) polyester brand R|Elan™, UN Environment and Lakmé Fashion Week – and won a chance to showcase its creations at The Studio during Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019. The collection re-emphasised ‘I was a Sari’s’ values in circularity and sustainability – showcasing 18 upcycled looks, handcrafted by women artisans using pre-loved saris and other waste materials. ‘I was a Sari’ the brain child of Stefano Funari and Poornima Pande started in 2013 and reinvented the traditional concept of upcycling old saris and ensuring that a sustainable and ethical path could be taken that would finally turn old saris into stylised garments, accessories, footwear and bags.

Mr. Vipul Shah, COO - Petrochemicals, Reliance Industries Ltd., said: “The alliance of RIL’s R|Elan™ with the UN Environment and LFW is committed towards changing the path of fashion, reducing its negative environmental and social impacts and turning fashion into a driver for the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals. We were truly amazed to see the elegant creations from the showcased ‘I Was A Sari’ collection, which truly stands for circularity and sustainability. With the overwhelming response that the collection has received, we are confident that it will inspire many more talents to adopt circularity concepts.”

The Studio was turned into a fun presentation space.

At the entrance, artisans’ hand embroidered different garments, moving forward was a display of saris’ bundles which had ‘I AM A SARI’ written on them depicting the raw material for the garments. Models were at the centre striking poses in the beautiful upcycled creations.

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The highlight was three models dressed as Vaghris, the Indian nomadic community that has been operating the informal old clothes recycling trade for centuries and surrounded by the utensils that they traditionally barter for old. At the exit was a display of embroidered products from the brand like footwear, bags, turbans and accessories.

Languid styles and exquisite prints blended with highquality textures and surface ornamentation lent fresh appeal and gave new life to pre-loved saris that were now converted into chic designs.

The collection presented by the brand featured relaxed silhouettes, a rainbow of colours and prints as well as a season less fashion thrust that could make the garments ideal lounge or resort wear with mix and match options.

India’s much-loved saris were transformed into stylish creations that would appeal to a wide spectrum of national and international buyers.

The men’s blue, printed, coordinate set of an anti-fit Cuban-collar shirt and pants, which had pops of teal and mustard was eye-catching. Vibrant colours of pink, purple and yellow stood out on the bell-sleeved V-neck top with a half-pleated midi skirt. Turbans, footwear, hats, scarves, bags and jewellery by ‘I was a Sari’ styled on all the models gave a cohesive look to the presentation.

This collection came alive through a unique and special engagement with Gucci employees. Thanks to the Gucci Changemakers initiative, 24 employees from the Gucci design office contributed ideas, knowledge and insight during a week of immersion with ‘I was a Sari’ women artisans in the company’s Roman studio.

About R|Elan™ R|Elan™, the next-gen fabrics have been created from specially engineered fibres and yarns using the cuttingedge technological expertise, state-of-the-art R&D and the robust testing systems. These smart fabrics have been designed to enhance comfort and aesthetics and it is the most sought-after fabric by renowned domestic and global brands, retailers and apparel manufacturers.

In short, R|Elan™ is Fabric 2.0 – fabric of the future.

About UN Environment: UN Environment is the leading global voice on the environment. It provides leadership and encourages partnership in caring for the environment by inspiring, informing, and enabling nations and peoples to improve their quality of life without compromising that of future generations. UN Environment works with governments, the private sector, civil society and with other UN entities and international organizations across the world.

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SOUTH INDIA UPDATE

CRISIS TO OPPORTUNITY – POSSIBLE WAY AHEAD Huge crisis prevails in the Textile Industry particularly in Tamil Nadu. Out of 2000 spinning mills in the state, about 600 plus spinning mills in Coimbatore, Tirupur sectors facing heavy burden to make the show. Market is weak and sentiments are in downstream.

From August 2019, most of the units have cut down their production capabilities by 25-30%. Few mills stopped due to various reasons. This is not only in spinning sector, as a value chain the present scenario affects the manufacturing in weaving, knitting etc.,

Reasons for the crisis: As a Textile Consultant, I got an opportunity to discuss with various stack holders of the Industry and by which can be summarized the reasons for the present situation may be due to this: 1. Bitter U.S.- China Trade war gave a punch on the entire global business which leads to near recession in Indian industries too and it has added fuel on the fire already exists in the industry.

2. Liquidity crunch prevails in the Indian market, transforms pressure on southern Indian mills and running the spinning mills in present day found more difficult.

3. Cotton price escalation and instability erodes the level playing field in global market scenario and given a huge impact on yarn exports.

4. China literally stopped yarn imports from India and most of the quality yarn producers in Tamil Nadu stumped – out and looking for alternates.

5. Within 6 months period of this calendar year, cotton prices volatility was unimaginable. For example, in March 2019 prices were Rs.47500/- per candy and reduced drastically to Rs.42000/- and again reached Rs.46000/- , resulting no sense and could not be able to cope up with Yarn market requirements.

6. Intermittent Job loss makes panic among mill employees and the migrant workers mostly from Bihar, Orissa, U.P, Assam and other North east states, returning to their native places. It creates short of skill labours and affecting quality of goods manufacturing in the spinning industry.

7. High interest rates puts checkmate and Mill financial Management finds very toughest situation to manage even break-even, in the recent history.

8. Demonetisation & GST implementation doesn’t affect much directly on spinning units but liquidity crisis makes situation worsened. Due to GST, working capital shortfall is inevitable and managing the fund flow found very difficult.

9. Indian cotton is costlier by 25% than International market, but Global customers expecting yarn with very low prices. Imbalance of this issue makes in competitive in global market for the Indian yarn. Yarn exports decreased by 33%.

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10.Cheaper Imports of Yarn & Fabrics from Bangladesh, Sri lanka, Vietnam makes jeopardy in Tirupur market and knitting & Garment manufacturers are standing as just as spectators due to FTA with these countries. Chinese dominance through these countries indirectly affecting the Indian spinning manufacturing sectors.

11.Tamil Nadu Spinning Mills reduced their production by about 20-25 % and announcing weekly holidays to match supply- demand equation. It was in the News column that Northern India Mills also about 200 Nos also reduced their production by about 25-30 %. These news will throw some light on the dangerous position of the present Spinning mills status.

12. Unmatched Demand & Supply chain in Indian Textile Industry also one of the main reason for Un-competitiveness in the last few years. Due to this, saturation has reached in Indian Domestic Yarn Market.

Mentioning the problems alone will not serve the purpose. When we had a series of discussion with cotton suppliers, Mill management, customers, Agents and distributors, we could be able to mention the following solutions to get rid of the crisis.

1.Special financial packagae to be announced by the central exclusively for Textile Industry.

2.Interest cut on loans.

3.Releasing the payment of TUF schemes pending amounts to ease a little bit financial burden.

4.Relook on FTA issues to be addressed properly.

5.Alternate product mix, Value addition in yarn and cost cutting in the manufacturing are some of the possible proactive measures to make mills performance viable.

6.In Tamil Nadu, steps to take tapping the solar energy and wind energy. Manufacturers are facing lot of hurdles for wheeling off the power to Grid from manufacturing source. Power cost plays a important role to reduce Manufacturing cost.

Resources like Hard working Textile Technicians, smart Directors, good working culture among workers, cohesive environment facilities and self motivated Entrepreneurs in this southern region, should not miss the opportunity of stabilizing the Textile industry’s future.

A wise Man turns chance into Good Fortune. Crisis facing by the Textile Industry at present , opens up New challenges and let’s hope the Team Work of Private and Government initiatives will convert these challenges into Opportunities.

NAGACHANDRAN V. CHIEF EXECUTIVE SUN POWER TEXTILES

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August 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS IT’S AMAZING AT ITMA: INNOVATION TRENDSETTING WITH THE GAMECHANGING, 90-METRE/MINUTE EFI REGGIANI BOLT SINGLE-PASS DIGITALPRINTER AND COMPLETE PORTFOLIO OF ADVANCED TEXTILE SOLUTIONS New ultra-high-speed printer featured alongside expanded ink offerings, high-end Fiery DFE workflow, indigo dyeing and finishing solutions, and state-of-the-art Optitex and Fiery DesignPro design solutions Electronics For Imaging, Inc. (Nasdaq:EFII) is showcasing the advanced, leading-edge technologies that make EFI™ Reggiani a textile innovator at ITMA 2019, 20-26 June in Barcelona, including the game-changing EFI Reggiani BOLT single-pass inkjet printer – the first digital textile solution capable of high-quality output at record production speeds of up to 90 linear metres (295 linear feet) per minute.

Leading innovation in digital textile EFI is presenting one of the most important showcases of new digital textile printing technology in the industry, emphasising leading-edge innovations that make EFI customers successful in the global textile industry. The EFI exhibit in Hall 3, Booth B204 at ITMA also features: • the EFI Reggiani COLORS printer, a high-quality, highly productive solution that prints with up to 12 colours and offers unmatched printing quality and uniformity with an extended colour gamut, superior colour depth and increased penetration into fabric • EFI Mezzera indigo dyeing and finishing technology that reduces chemical usage by up to 40% compared with other dyeing technologies and ensures deeper shades and superior fastness • New EFI Reggiani FUOCO water-based acid inks, specifically designed to deliver amazing prints for highly demanding textile applications and incomparable colour depth and vibrancy • a new EFI Fiery® BT-1000 digital front end (DFE), that streams jobs directly to the Reggiani BOLT printer at engine-rated speed for top-quality print results and increased profitability • the newly launched version of EFI Optitex® 2D/3D textile CAD software offering streamlined Print & Cut workflow integration with Reggiani printers for up to 15% greater efficiency in textile usage • Fiery DesignPro, a suite of Adobe® Creative Cloud® plug-ins that streamline design of textile repeats, colourways, wovens and knits, plus communicate colour consistently from design to production.

ITMA attendees will see how they can do more, and drive new success, using a renewed product range of EFI Reggiani printers to accompany them through their digital journey, from small scale to mass production. The EFI Reggiani portfolio of textile solutions includes a complete, integrated design, colour management and pre- and

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post-treatment solution offering unmatched by any other digital technology supplier in the industry. Plus, users also benefit from one of the industry’s broadest lineups of high-end, superior-quality textile inks, including reactive inks from EFI’s recent acquisition of BDR Boya Kimya, along with EFI Reggiani AQUA reactive, IRIS dye-sublimation, ARIA direct disperse and TERRA pigment inks.

As print technology analyst company Keypoint Intelligence recently noted in a report, EFI, with its expansive portfolio, “is positioning itself as a one-stop-shop for industrial textile needs, addressing not only the fundamentals of the business with equipment supplies and service but also demonstrating a vision for an evolving supply chain.”

Transformational technology for the industry’s digital migration The new, 1.8-metre (71-inch) wide Reggiani BOLT printer at ITMA is designed to give textile manufacturers high uptime and reliability, high performance throughout and unparalleled printing uniformity and accuracy, in addition to superior printhead life and minimal maintenance needs. Thanks to its cutting-edge printhead concept and high-performance ink delivery system, the Reggiani BOLT reaches a record throughput speed of 90 metres/minute at a 600 x 600 dots per inch (dpi) resolution. It features high-end imaging in drop sizes from 5 to 30 picolitres, and also provides premium-quality 600 x 4,800 maximum-dpi resolution printing, allowing customers to address their full range of design needs.

A robust, industrial platform designed for 24/7 operation, the Reggiani BOLT printer offers an innovative, low-maintenance, fast-startup recirculation printhead that delivers more-uniform, high-quality printing with superior uptime.

Users can reduce the cost per meter of digitally printed textiles with the Reggiani BOLT while creating a broader range of designs quickly and efficiently. The printer also has another remarkable advantage in its ability to include one or more analogue printing stations as an option, integrated into the digital printer for special effects.

The Fiery BT-1000 DFE is a professional colour management and RIP solution that enables efficient job management and streams jobs directly to the Reggiani BOLT printer in real time. It is purpose-built to deliver fine detail, smooth gradations, clean solid colours, deep blacks, and high saturation. Superior screening and fine dither-

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS ing algorithms provide high-quality print results.

Time-to-market miracles: design and sampling solutions EFI’s stand at ITMA features one of the industry’s mostadvanced workflows for design through production. The newest-version EFI Optitex software featured in the EFI exhibit addresses retailers’ and brands’ urgent need to bring new products to market faster. The new release delivers true-to-life fabric simulations, enabling custom views of designs for consistent and adaptable 3D sample displays, minimising the need for physical samples and costly photo shoots across the design and production workflow. A new EFI Optitex Print & Cut feature enables complete garment printing on a single roll, creating significant savings in fabric roll inventory, with typically 15%40% greater efficiency compared to traditional methods.

Fashion and apparel manufacturers also benefit from an improved nesting algorithm in the software that increases fabric utilisation.

The Fiery DesignPro textile design software tools EFI is showing at ITMA work seamlessly with Adobe® Photoshop® and Illustrator® in Mac® or Microsoft® Windows® environments. This set of powerful textile and fashion design plug-ins are efficient to use, fast to learn, and make it easy to switch between DesignPro and native Photoshop or Illustrator software during the design process. The plug-ins significantly reduce the time and effort needed to create repeat patterns, colourways, separations, weaves, knits, or garment sketches. Plus, Fiery DesignPro gives designers the ability to effectively and efficiently communicate colours and seasonal palettes through the entire design team, all the way to production.

tion feature to ensure that it stays ready to print without extensive preventive maintenance.

Greater sustainability in denim production The EFI Mezzera DENIM system at ITMA – the latest innovation in the renowned Mezzera line of low-impact indigo dyeing and finishing solutions – uses patented Nitrogen Indigo technology. Key advantages include: • an up to 35-40% reduction in chemical usage compared to other dyeing technologies • up to 6.5% higher indigo intensity compared to other dyeing technologies • improved colourfastness • deeper sulphur dyeing shades with no steaming •

a smaller machinery footprint.

“We are very excited about our ITMA exhibit, especially to be showing the Reggiani BOLT to the general public for the first time along with our unmatched portfolio for advanced, efficient, high-quality digital textile production,” said EFI Reggiani Vice President and General Manager Adele Genoni. “This innovative single-pass printer will be printing live at the show, and visitors will be more than pleased with how it creates a new path for the future with digital production. EFI is a true partner to our customers in this transformation as the only provider with a complete offering of advanced printers, inks, pre- and posttreatment technologies and integrated design and workflow solutions.”

The EFI ecosystem of textile technologies at ITMA leverages EFI Reggiani’s 70+ years as a leader in textile industry innovation with digital and conventional processes.

EFI Reggiani products, along with some of the industry’s most advanced pre-treatment, post-treatment and software innovations, simplify the transition from conventional to digital production to give customers new profit and growth opportunities. To learn more about of EFI’s products and services for the textile and apparel industries, visit www.efi.com.

EFI is also announcing a new EFI Reggiani BOLT Capsule proofing printer model, designed to perfectly match Reggiani BOLT print results to let users preview them before moving to production. This high-end scanning/multi-pass printer delivers high coverage and uniform printing with highly accurate fabric feeding. It features the same special, high-quality, highly reliable inkjet heads as the Reggiani BOLT model, with an efficient, innovative recircula-

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August 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS GROZ-BECKERT USES AUGMENTED REALITY TO PRESENT ITS HIGHLIGHTS AT THE ITMA EUROPE IN BARCELONA The textile world has come together in Barcelona, Spain for the ITMA Europe, which runs until June 26, 2019.

Roughly 1,600 exhibitors – Groz-Beckert among them – are on hand presenting a fascinating array of innovations.

The company’s booth welcomes visitors to explore product and service highlights, laid out attractively with a completely reworked booth concept and a new digital form of presentation harnessing augmented reality.

New booth concept All six product areas at Groz-Beckert are on exhibit, as are services that span multiple areas, such as the GrozBeckert Academy and the Technology and Development Center (TEZ) in the booth’s so-called ‘Innovation Hub.’ This Innovation Hub gathers the absolute latest innovations from the various company areas, with a dedicated presentation zone for each product segment.

The entire diverse range of Groz-Beckert products can thus be presented in a tremendously compact space – both in the real and virtual worlds. Augmented reality offers the chance to achieve new perspectives and unprecedented insights into the product catalog. This virtual system does more than just present the same information in a new way. It ensures that visitors depart the GrozBeckert booth having enjoyed the kind of unique experience that builds real positive associations.

The new Groz-Beckert campaign is the common thread through the entire booth, both at a visual and content level. Numerous films and animated clips have been composed to present and explain the various motifs. One fun highlight is the selfie station positioned in the booth’s tunnel area. It not only stages the new campaign in a creative way, it also makes the customer part of the exhibition itself.

Groz-Beckert Academy The Academy’s training program reflects Groz-Beckert’s dedication to sharing knowledge, passing along practical wisdom and building expertise. Its training sessions convey a powerful mix of practice and theory, building a deeper understanding of technique and process. To make its offerings available quicker and more simply, the Groz-Beckert Academy will be undergoing a significant digital and international expansion to ensure accessibility independent of time, place or language.

Visitors to the ITMA can learn all about the major upgrades coming to the Groz-Beckert Academy, and even help steer those changes. After all, the Groz-Beckert Academy can best thrive if it tailors its improvements to fit the needs of partners and customers. This starts with an initial set of

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face-to-face conversations during the ITMA. For example, the live training events that are currently held at the main offices in Albstadt, Germany will soon be available as web or app-based training, as learning videos, webinars and digital training case studies. The program of international events will also be expanded to include the Americas and Asia.

Technology and Development Center (TEZ) The TEZ is the innovation platform for the Groz-Beckert Group – and offers a strong basis for the many exhibition pieces found in the Innovation Hub. For customers and partners, the TEZ represents a marvelous resource for optimization and development tasks and business partnership requests.

The TEZ works to implement customer plans and visions through a pool of experts, machines, tools and measurement devices attuned to the needs of the knitting, weaving, felting, tufting, carding and sewing fields.

Yet the TEZ can do much more: its experts possess fantastic expertise with high-tech materials such as glass and carbon fiber, silk and fiber matrix systems for composites, which frequently play a role in various tests and projects.

For customers, this broad technical and methodological knowledge on the part of the TEZ’s experts is supplemented by the specialist know-how of the R&D area, whose more than 250 employees work in a various disciplines and specialties.

Beyond this, the TEZ works to convert data gleaned from its research into market-ready products. The TEZ also fields and solicits partnership offers for joint business field development. From market research and production to market launch and the founding of new companies, the TEZ stands ready with deep expertise and readiness to engage in collaborations.

For customers and partners, the TEZ is an invaluable resource for whatever plans and challenges they face in the world of textiles. Visitors at the ITMA can talk with TEZ experts in person to learn about the potential for creating joint projects.

Knitting

The Knitting area has several product innovations in store. This starts with the SAN™ SF, Groz-Beckert’s new

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS special application needle for use with large diameter circular knitting machines. These needle types are specially developed for knitting staple fiber yarns. The needle geometry is designed with a closed needle shank on the bottom and a supporting humps for the cylinder walls. It is a combination that effectively prevents fiber residues and yarn abrasion from collecting.

Less contamination means longer periods without having to remove the needles to clean the machine. In practice, the cleansing cycles were extended by up to a factor of 3 on average. Use of the SAN™ staple fiber needle significantly reduces both the maintenance requirements and the frequency of faults in goods due to contaminationrelated vertical lines.

At the Circular Knitting exhibit, guests can examine the needle in extra detail using an augmented reality environment. The Innovation Hub will also be spotlighting an infographic with a detailed overview of the properties and benefits.

The Innovation Hub will also be touting the results of a successful Circular Knitting partnership: one entire table of the exhibit is dedicated to a close collaboration with machine builder and a set of jointly developed needles and system parts.

The Flat Knitting area presents two different innovations: fine gauges and technical textiles. These topics are explored in the Innovation Hub through two animated films and a small acrylic model featuring needles and system parts. The finest transfer needle in the Flat Knitting area, gauge E21, represents a tremendous step forward in opening up new flat knitting applications, and with it new potential business fields.

In the area of technical textiles, the Flat Knitting team at Groz-Beckert is presenting a new special application needle that can handle a huge range of uses. The stability of the design reduces downtimes and boosts productivity.

It also features special technical characteristics such as a secure yarn insertion mechanism and reliable latch function – even when performing multi-thread knitting of solid loops using continuous filament yarn. The exceptional quality of the surface and dimensional stability promise improved process reliability during the transfer process.

Its flexible acceptance of sample variants and yarns opens up new potential business fields.

In the Legwear field, the ITMA will see the debut of a new needle for sock machines intended for use under heavy loads. The dur™ needle offers remarkable technical performance breakthroughs, including increased hook and latch stability and a modified slot design. This reduces hook breakage, wound hooks and bent latches. Beyond this, smooth latch movement is guaranteed, even with slightly bent needle latches. This reduces a variety of different knitting errors. The dur™ technology is also designed to cut needle wear, which in turn boosts overall

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productivity.

Groz-Beckert will be presenting the benefits of the dur™ needle in several ways: An augmented reality station will be available at the Legwear exhibit, giving a detailed look at its technical properties, and a short film on the needle’s advantages will be shown at the Innovation Hub. Alongside the dur™ needle, Groz-Beckert will also be presenting its qualifications as a premier development partner for machine and system builders in the Legwear area.

Together with Santoni, Groz-Beckert’s ITMA booth will be presenting two generation of sock machines completely equipped with Groz-Beckert needles and system parts.

In the Warp Knitting area, Groz-Beckert will also be demonstrating its strengths as a system provider. Augmented reality users can view an acrylic model of a warp knitting machine to see how the different system components work together. Viewers can switch freely between 3D models of the overall schematics of the warp knitting process or the interplay between the individual warp knitting elements.

Beyond the presentation of various innovations, a number of special sales offers for this area will also be available exclusively at the ITMA booth.

Weaving The Weaving exhibition zone presents the latest generation of drawing-in machine, the WarpMasterPlus. Thanks to its modular design – consisting of needle, reed, healds, drop wires and yarn module – the WarpMasterPlus delivers optimal flexibility, combined with maximum performance. The new generation of machine ekes maximum efficiency out of every square meter. For example, individual machine lengths with drawing-in widths over 4 meters are now possible.

The tried-and-true KnotMaster typing system rounds out the weaving preparation section of the Weaving exhibit. Thanks to its different tying units, the right tie can achieved for any type of yarn.

There are innovations aplenty in the Weaving Accessories sector as well, such as thread-preserving mono wire healds with stuck-on thread eyes for jacquard and standard fabrics.

The overall diversity of all products in the Weaving area can be explored in just one square meter of real space – and unlimited virtual space, thanks to augmented reality.

Visitors can gain new insights into areas that are normally hidden, with plentiful digital information to satisfy their

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS curiosity.

In one new wrinkle, Groz-Beckert will also be presenting a large variety of different reeds for standard and special applications.

Felting Whether visitors are interested in the field of hydroentanglement or needling or are simply looking for application advice: the ITMA will provide them with plentiful insights into Groz-Beckert’s extensive catalog for the nonwovens industry.

will presenting a 3D model of the staple fiber needle punch line as part of the Felting exhibit. Customers can learn all about the extensive range of testing available at the Groz-Beckert Technology and Development Center (TEZ) in Albstadt, Germany.

Tufting The Tufting exhibition zone revolves around the growing quality demands for product quality by customers.

Groz-Beckert will be showing which tool modules are best suited to tackle these challenges.

For spun lace customers, Groz-Beckert has its HyTec®P jet strips in store. They possesses a much greater hardness compared with conventional jet strips. The HyTec®P also stands out for its excellent scratch-resistance.

In the area of felting needles, GEBECON® and EcoStar®

Visitors can also use the augmented reality system to gain a completely new perspective on the interplay between unique gauge part systems capable of meeting even the most stringent customer standards.

Carding The newest product area within the Groz-Beckert Group will be on hand at the ITMA presenting several product innovations. First and foremost is the Groz-Beckert InLine

needles and their patented geometries are the focus of an augmented reality presentation using an acrylic model of a needling machine. Groz-Beckert is also presenting its newly developed dur™ material, which can be processed using felting and structuring needles to achieve greater corrosion-resistance and an extended lifespan. The Innovation Hub will also show the major difference between the new dur™ material from Gro-Beckert compared with traditional needle steel.

Another section of the Felting exhibit will introduce a much-demanded Groz-Beckert product: customer-specific product labeling. Needle designations can be optimally adapted to customer systems, such as storage, merchandise management and needle change systems. This offers many practical benefits, such as quicker classification of needles thanks to the individual designation, thus helping eliminate confusion and improving process reliability.

Another benefit: know-how protection for production. By using your own designations, you can make it more difficult for third parties to spy on your methods. An interactive trade fair exhibit will allow visitors to create their own customer labels.

In the area of application advice, the technology faculty

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card clothing series for the nonwovens industry. Thanks to a completely new and patented manufacturing process, various metallic card clothing can be produced to meet the highest quality standards, all with optimal process reliability. The card clothings are characterized by a standardized butt height of 1.3 millimeters with interlocked and non card clothings produced from more resistant teeth and a completely scale-free surface. An exhibit in the Innovation Hub will highlight how this differs from conventional production methods. It shows an impressive comparison between the new Groz-Beckert InLine clothing and the older generation.

Based on the new production procedure, the SiroLock® plus card clothing was developed as an improvement to the SiroLock® worker and doffer wire. These betterments to the card clothing are based in part on new manufacturing processes and on improvements drawn from customer feedback. The special tooth geometry results in a gentle and more efficient fiber take-up, control and transfer – with even the highest throughputs. A digital exhibit will elucidate the functionality and operating principle behind the SiroLock® plus for ITMA visitors.

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS The Carding area of the exhibition will also feature virtual versions of the new series of stationary and revolving flats, the improved cylinder wire and a new doffer wire.

The stationary flat series is notable for its innovative tooth geometry and innovative tooth distribution that ensures controlled opening of the fiber tufts within the card. Beyond this, the surface is more hard wearing and protects the new stationary flat against damage from unintended use.

The new TV56 revolving flat clothing features a new setting pattern and 560 points per square inch, making it particularly easy to clean. It is not only harder wearing, but also increases the potential carding production output through the extended lifetime of the revolving flat.

The new D40-30-31ES CBF doffer wire offers an alternative to the grooved card clothing, with a significantly higher fiber transfer and improved fiber control. This in turn promotes better performance, especially for matted fibers. The special surface treatment CBF (Clean Bright Finish) also enables a high efficiency of the revolving flat card to be achieved due to the reduced cleaning requirements.

Sewing

The Sewing area will be presenting its special application needs for the most challenging applications: the SAN® 10 and the SAN® 10 XS. The SAN® 10 combines the requirements for protecting the material and stability. Its narrow form results in a reduced penetration cross-section in the eye area, reducing the stress on the loops as the needle passes through. The special design in the shank area also ensures sufficient stability.

In rare cases, however, damage to the material cannot be avoided using the SAN® 10. This occurs mainly on ultrafine fabrics or materials, which are extremely difficult to sew. Processing of these fabrics necessitates even greater

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protection of the material — which is precisely where the SAN® 10 XS comes into play. It was specially developed and designed for the processing of ultra-fine materials.

Its extremely thin geometry and the cylindrical shank enable an even gentler needle penetration, further reducing material damage.

The extremely material-sparing shape of the new SAN® 10 XS needle does have a direct impact on its stability, however. The SAN® 10 XS is therefore even more gentle on the material than the SAN® 10, but is also less stable. It is therefore advisable to use the SAN® 10 XS mainly in applications with a specific focus on avoiding material damage.

On behalf of the Sewing area, the Innovation Hub will be presenting its INH Quality Management (Ideal Needle Handling). The patented process offers smooth and timesaving handling of broken and damaged sewing machine needles during operation. The process supports customers in complying with different brand-owner specifications on documenting needle breakage, all in a uniform way. Beyond this, the INH allows for environmentally sound handling and increased productivity.

Together with the customer, Groz-Beckert sets up the appropriate process and also makes available the needed working materials – specifically conceived and developed for INH. Smart INH: Groz-Beckert digital solution for simplifying the process of documenting needle breakage and all other needle changes.

Your most unhappy customers are your greatest source of learning.

‘‘

The improved cylinder wire with special geometry is notable for its self-dressing effect, which reduces its maintenance needs. Beyond this, it also produces fewer burls and contamination. This makes it particularly well suited for quality-oriented cotton spinning companies that produce fine yarns.

– Bill Gate

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August 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS Premiere of a composite machine and innovative technical applications KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH is continuing to develop into a systems supplier for non-crimped fabrics (NCFs) and is launching a new line for producing thermoplastic unidirectional tapes (UD tapes). The company is already known for its multiaxial warp knitting machines and its fibre spreading unit. This newcomer, SIM.PLY, combines a completely revised spreading module with well-thought-out impregnation technology in a continuous, efficient processing sequence. The seamless interface guarantees a consistently high spreading quality.

With their high quality and precise alignment of the continuous fibres, the tapes are ideal for use in highly stressed, fibre-reinforced, lightweight structures. The thermoplastic matrix also allows for effective processing, enabling mass production to be carried out. The SIM.PLY, with its high production speed and ability to produce tapes in a broad range of widths, is also suitable for mass production. Not only the new machine will be presented at ITMA, but also one of the products produced on it, together with the sequences for producing a structural component for the automobile sector.

made from an aramid NCF, that is both effective and comfortable to wear. The functional textile was produced on a multiaxial warp-knitting machine, type COP MAX 5 with online spreading process.

Warp-knitting machines with improved price-performance ratio and new textile products In the field of raschel machines a new RSJ 4/1 ON will be premiered at ITMA. Offering 50 % more working width at the same speed compared to its predecessor, this machine is highly productive and uniquely flexible. Thanks to the EL technology, it is possible to ensure a rapid pattern change and to produce patterns with long repeats. For the development of new articles, the innovative model takes full advantage of the integration into the KM.ON eco system. This machine is the first representative which in the product category k.innovation, provides optimum support for the virtual textile development commonly used today.

Under the LACE.EXPRESS trademark, KARL MAYER launched the OJ series in 2016, perfectly tailored to the special needs of the apparel market. At ITMA 2019, this manufacturer will now present a self-contained, complete 134” machine platform for the intimate sector., The company will offer a B- (Back) version and a F-Jacquard (Front) version for each of the representatives. The special highlight of the system: the related models are compatible to one another. Every machine can be upgraded to the technical level of high-bar platform neighbours.

Low-bar articles can be produced on high-bar machines without any adjustments. In this way, the customer benefits from highest flexibility. In Barcelona an OJ 91/1 B will be on show.

SIM.PLY_Machine

In the „Future of Textiles“ area, the visitors will have the opportunity to see very promising applications for the textiles manufactured on the machines made by KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. The focus here is on the issue of concrete components reinforced with carbon or glass fibre NCFs rather than steel. By using textile concrete, it is possible to save up to 70% of the concrete and, as a result, CO2 emissions, energy and component weight can all be reduced. Other promising applications of technical warp-knitted textiles in the construction sector include cost-effective, flexible, stable roofing materials and bitumen roofing felts, special plaster grids that increase the cracking resistance in the plaster, and self-adhesive tapes for repairing any cracks and holes that do occur.

Besides, an innovative solution for personal protection equipment will also be showcased: a new bulletproof vest

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HKS 3-M-ON_Machine

Besides, in its „Future of Textiles“ Application Show, KARL MAYER will be presenting extraordinary product developments, that require little effort during making-up but offer a lot of chic and function: well thought-out solutions for highly comfortable bras with few seams, a sporty body made from novel power lace with shaping and supporting effects as well as a swimsuit in lace look.

As far as the double raschel technology is concerned, KARL MAYER will show how a new RDPJ 6/2 EL machine

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS can be used to open up a previously unknown product world. The outstanding warp-knits are marketed under 4D-KNIT.SOLUTIONS. They attract attention by pronounced, three-dimensional and manifold patternings on the outer sides, but they can also show open-work patterns, that are a clear advantage over competitive products of circular knitting. Eye-catching 4D-KNIT.SOLUTIONS articles can be seen in the „Future of Textiles“ area. A live machine demonstration will be organized to present the RDPJ 6/2 EL, 138ʺ, in a gauge of E 24.

As innovation in the field of tricot machines, KARL MAYER will be displaying the first three-bar HKS model with electronic guide bar control. The new HKS 3-M-ON offers the same performance in terms of speed and design variety as the previous version, but thanks to an innovative gear solution it is faster and simpler during pattern change.

Instead of pattern disks, it is only necessary to exchange data. The required information can simply be downloaded to the machine from a secured cloud. In Barcelona, a HKS 3-M-ON, 180ʺ, in E 28, will demonstrate its flexibility during a performance show while working an eye-catching demonstration pattern, showing the interlinking of different lappings.

Innovations for the entire warp preparation sector KARL MAYER will showcase its new MULTI-MATIC® 32 for producing sample and short production warps. This new machine impresses with its excellent price-performance ratio. and offers all the advantages of the KAMCOS® 2 platform. Thanks to the integrated OPC UA interface in particular, the machine can be digitally networked and the operating data can be collected in real time.

Moreover, KARL MAYER will be showing the new stop motion MULTIGUARD as prototype. Positioned at the exit to the creel, this newcomer continuously determines the yarn tension values of all the yarns, thus, also controlling any yarn breakages and tension peaks.

PRODIRECT_Machine

Guests will be able to experience the latest generation of sectional warping machines via a live link at KARL MAYER’s German site in Hausen. The PROWARP® will be demonstrating its new features and capabilities. The latest innovations include a modern module for the cameraassisted recording of production data, which is important for the high reproducibility of beam build-up. The PROACTIVE Warping is also new. This new brand is a self-learning quality control system, which records the quality-relevant beam parameters by means of sensors and compares them with the target values. If any deviations occur, the production data are optimised accordingly when processing repeat orders. A high beam quality can be achieved, irrespective of the operatives.

MULTI-MATIC_Machine

Regarding the direct beamers, KARL MAYER has consistently pursued its twin product line strategy. The new ISODIRECT was successfully launched at ITMA ASIA 2018 as a standard model, and the PRODIRECT will be presented to the public as a version for the premium market at the next ITMA in Barcelona. The latest electronic systems, the KAMCOS® 2 platform, and sophisticated technical solutions make this new machine the high-end model that achieves optimum levels in terms of quality and productivity.

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LINK-MATIC

With models and presentations, KARL MAYER will be showing innovative technical solutions for guaranteeing improved efficiency and sustainability in the denim production in its „Future of Textiles“ sector. One main focus in this context is the topic of SUSTAINABLE DENIM. KARL MAYER presents a newly developed technology for an indigo dyeing process in nitrogen atmosphere, which ensures an optimum setting of the dye in terms of solid-

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS ity and brilliant tone, at the same time requiring less dye bath volume, chemicals and water. The dyeing process ensures highest efficiency.

Also on show will be the new LINK-MATIC® system for the automatic knotting of the batches on the PRODYE-S indigo machine and the PROSIZE sizing machine. By means of this innovation it is possible to reduce retooling times to just a few minutes. The almost continuous production increases machine efficiency, at the same time reducing waste yarn and personnel expenditure. The perfect arrangement of the warp after retooling reduces the share of second-grade fabric.

Ecological solutions from the machine to the textile KARL MAYER keeps the focus on the topic of sustainability. In the course of the generation change of the highperformance warp-knitting machines, almost all models have been equipped with LEO®. The Low Energy Option enables an average energy saving of 10% compared to conventional counterparts, thus, helping to reduce the consumption of resources.

Moreover, it is possible to process resource-saving yarns on KARL MAYER machines. In Barcelona, a HKS 3-M-ON will work a textile completely from a recycled filament yarn on the basis of bottleflakes, produced by Trevira.

The article carries the new SINFINECO label, which is granted by the fibre manufacturer for textiles made from his sustainable products.

A selection of sustainable warp-knits and application concepts is offered by KARL MAYER’s „Future of Textiles“ section under CLEANER.PRODUCTIONS. These include warp-knitted articles as ecologically beneficial alternative to woven fabrics for modern streetwear and TERRY.ECO terry textiles. TERRY.ECO represents an efficient technological solution for more sustainability, for energy- and resource-saving systems during terry fabric production.

The topic of SUSTAINABLE DENIM is especially addressed to the manufacturers belonging to the denim sector.

Spare parts procurement simple and convenient WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS continues to expand The range and functions of KARL MAYER’s WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS have been continuously extended since its launch at ITMA in Milan four years ago. The strategic objective of these changes is to deliver maximum benefits for its customers. Customer-oriented, cross-selling services with product-related purchasing recommendations and the scan-to-order function as a new and simple way of replenishing stocks using a smartphone and QR code were introduced at ITMA ASIA 2018. Another stage in the expansion of the Webshop will be presented at ITMA 2019.

The stocks held by KARL MAYER’s distributors are now integrated into the Webshop, which is now available in

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11 languages. This means that the spare parts can now be seen in local warehouses by customers and can be ordered virtually via the Webshop. This new function further simplifies the ordering process for customers, and guarantees that the spare parts are delivered in the fastest possible time. Once the spare part has been ordered via the Webshop, the order is processed in the usual way, i.e. simply and efficiently by the local distributors.

The latest upgrade also extends to the integration of a WEBSHOP for spare parts for the Warp Preparation Business Unit. Customers can now order spare parts from all three of KARL MAYER’s Business Units via the online tool that has been assigned to them.

Access has also been simplified. The user is transferred directly to the WEBSHOP that has been activated for him via the newly setup central access address, shop.karlmayer. com, or else he can select the Webshop he wants to use via a landing page.

The WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS continues to be available to our Chinese customers at shop.karlmayer.com.cn.

Aside from the Webshop, KARL MAYER’s Spares Department in Obertshausen is continuing to develop ways of optimising the organisation and technology of its technical support operations in general.

These employees, together with their service and sales/ marketing colleagues, are part of a new, specialist team.

As a central point of contact, this group can provide rapid, expert help with virtually every question and problem – from making new investments to after-sales service. Personal contact with customers and distributors, with no language barriers, is especially important for understanding their needs better and dealing with them even more effectively. When supplying spare parts, this means an even greater focus on speed when processing and delivering the parts, and also provides the best possible support when dealing with complex, technical queries. The consultancy group can be contacted easily via modern, online media and is also happy to help with using the WEBSHOP or apps, such as k.maintenance and k.service.

KM.ON is expanding towards Asia KARL MAYER’s software startup is setting up subsidiaries in China and Hong Kong KARL MAYER is continuing along its path of digitisation, and is focusing on expansion and globalisation. From June 2019 onwards, KM.ON will be present in key markets with subsidiaries in China and Hong Kong.

This software startup offers a broad portfolio of digital solutions under the KM.ON brand. The company was set up in Frankfurt in 2017 as the KARL MAYER Digital Factory, and now operates under the uniform name of KM.ON GmbH.

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS In addition to Warp Knitting, Warp Preparation and Technical Textiles, KMO.ON is also one of KARL MAYER’s business units and has a corresponding focus. “With this international setup, we are following KARL MAYER’s strategy of being close to our customers. Our local presences enable us to focus our solutions for important sales regions even more specifically on the particular requirements of our customers there,” says Antonia Gottschalk, who heads KM.ON GmbH together with Maximilian Kürig.

Both Managing Directors expect that globalisation will also provide impulses for the entire product portfolio.

“The adaptation rate of software and digital solutions is enormous here. The heart of digitisation is beating strongly in China. With these new locations, we have our finger firmly on the pulse of a period of great change,” says Maximilian Kürig.

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ANTONIA GOTTSCHALK MAXIMILIAN KÜRIG Managing Directors

www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS Quality partner for fabric producers USTER® Fabric Inspection presents top technology and quality management expertise at ITMA

problems immediately and prevent quality issues from continuing, thus minimizing material waste. A red LED guides the operator to the exact position of defects, and lights at the side of the unit show system status.

Fabric faults are categorized and saved, creating a ‘defect map’ for each roll which can be recalled and reviewed later via the intuitive touchscreen. The system reduces the need for post-weaving inspection for most applications.

Since 2018, the world-renowned USTER quality systems include fabric inspection – and ITMA 2019 will see the launch of the first major innovation to be developed since the acquisition of automatic vision inspection company Elbit Visions Systems (EVS).

Fabric makers will already be familiar with the successful, industry-proven solutions USTER® EVS Q-BAR, FABRIQ VISION and FABRIQ SHADE, which today are used worldwide to inspect upwards of 60 million meters of fabric per day. At ITMA in Barcelona, USTER® Q-BAR 2 and USTER® FABRIQ EXPERT will be launched and explained to show visitors.

For fabric manufacturers, the competitive nature of the textile market means that reliable quality is a requirement, and defects are unacceptable to their customers.

USTER® FABRIQ EXPERT and USTER® Q-BAR 2 aim to support textile mills in guaranteeing the delivery of the desired roll quality, using the best technology available for monitoring and improving production at the earliestpossible stage.

That includes locating any defects quickly, supporting identification of the root causes and initiating corrective action. The expertise of EVS technology – with intelligent visual detection and fault-recognition algorithms – is now enhanced by USTER’s overall experience in quality management systems for the wider textile industry.

Fault detection with direct impact on business success USTER® Q-BAR 2 represents the next generation of the original on-loom monitoring and inspection system, offering user-friendly design and operational improvements for weaving. An inspiring USTER design built on years of EVS experience brings many advantages, including indication of the defect location, and better access to make maintenance tasks easier.

The USTER® Q-BAR 2 is positioned immediately behind the reed on each machine – the ideal location for earliest detection of fabric defects. This means the operator can respond quickly to alarms and stop signals, to correct

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USTER® Q-BAR is already making a significant impact on the business success of users. In one example, a US technical textiles producer reports that it has increased sales volumes through the ability to guarantee seamless fabrics to its customers. This firm produces base-layer material for coating, an application in which defects larger than 9 inches are unacceptable, as they would require cutting and seaming.

The advantage of USTER® Q-BAR 2 here is the rapid stop of weaving when it identifies a defect – before it reaches the critical size for the subsequent processes.

Full on-loom quality transparency USTER® FABRIQ EXPERT is the key to early detection of quality issues, based on comprehensive quality data gathered during on-loom inspection of fabrics. It provides weavers with an overview of their entire installation, via USTER® Q-BAR 2 systems fitted over each machine.

The quality data can be used to compare the performance of the same styles on different machines, for example.

Another benefit is an indication of when to replace spare parts, preventing faults which could occur with worn-out parts.

Importantly, this knowledge is a considerable scale-up on the ‘normal’ weaving operator’s ability to feedback observations over several looms. The whole-mill picture from USTER® FABRIQ EXPERT makes the results more representative of the true picture in the mill.

It follows the USTER ‘Think Quality’ concept – supporting customers to make informed decisions for long-term business success through increased productive efficiency and effective quality management.

Quality partner for fabric producers Combining the industry-leading technology of automated vision-based inspection with USTER’s unrivalled stature in quality management systems and services creates the perfect ‘dream team’ for fabric manufacturers. They can now have access to highly-effective automated fault detection, as well as total transparency of weaving quality performance, provided during on-loom inspection.

USTER® Fabric Inspection offers real benefits for weavers in terms of both customer satisfaction and their own long-term business success.

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS Major advances with USTER® TESTER 6: two new features – and total mill optimization through the Quality Management Platform Customer feedback drives innovations for twist testing and conductive yarns It’s the acknowledged global standard in testing, at the heart of the laboratory in every quality-conscious textile mill. And USTER® TESTER 6 – the latest edition of the legendary Uster Technologies instrument – still keeps on improving, with innovative solutions to keep pace with latest industry trends.

Two examples illustrate this progress ahead of ITMA 2019: the facility for measuring conductive yarn through the Frequent Occurrences (FO) feature of USTER® TESTER 6. And the high-speed assessment of twist and twist variation as part of a single yarn testing routine.

Conductive yarns have become more important in the past decade in fast-growing markets such as protective wear, fitness clothing, and healthcare.

Manufacturers of protective clothing in particular need to deal with public institutions and tenders. In this competitive environment, the supplier’s reputation is crucial – and it depends largely on consistent quality to avoid costly claims.

Until now, it has not been possible to measure the quality of conductive yarns – a real issue for spinners in this field. USTER stepped up efforts to include measurement of conductive yarn in USTER® TESTER 6. Sensor OM is now used to measure Frequent Occurrences (FO) in these yarns. It analyses neps, thin and thick places, yarn evenness, diameter, density and shape – all vital quality parameters for conductive yarns.

Twist and twist variation – in a single test routine The manual and often subjective measurement of twist has been regarded by spinners as a task to be avoided if possible. But the twist level in a yarn is a critical quality parameter that affects both the look and performance of the finished product, as well as the productivity level, so spinners would benefit from integrating twist in their normal testing routine.

USTER® TESTER 6 hosts USTER® QUALITY EXPERT, the ultimate digital solution for integrated data-based improvements throughout the spinning mill, connecting and interpreting information from a range of different instruments in the unique Quality Management Platform. For the first time, spinners have access to all the possibilities for total mill optimization.

Sivakumar Narayanan, Executive Vice President Marketing & Business Development says: “We are committed to innovating products, solutions and services which strengthen business sustainability for customers. The new features demonstrate this well. Working with USTER gives customers the peace of mind that can only come from strong partnerships, as well as adding extra impetus to our technological development efforts.”

“USTER® TESTER 6 was launched in 2015 and has already been sold in 37 countries. As part of USTER’s continuous improvement strategy, we have collected personal feedback from every USTER® TESTER 6 customer around the world. This, combined with field reports from our service engineers, led to the latest developments of USTER® TESTER 6.”

Now, this important parameter can be measured as a simple by-product of yarn testing for 100% cotton ring and compact yarn – giving producers information about all relevant parameters as part of one laboratory procedure. USTER® TESTER 6 is the only yarn testing instrument on the market with the option to obtain Twist and Twist variation (Tu) data during yarn testing, at a speed of 800 m/min. This information enables spinning mills to react quickly to identify performance gaps such as lowspeed spindles.

Developed by experts in the technology department of USTER, these innovations extend the capabilities of USTER® TESTER 6 still further.

Correlation with USTER® STATISTICS Measurement data from USTER® TESTER 6 correlates perfectly with USTER® STATISTICS global benchmarks, essential for every yarn producer or trader. Available in an app for iOS, Android and Windows 10 since October 2018 – it is already one of the most successful apps in textiles.

Now the new app version 1.4 is in app stores – with an enlarged database of the most popular yarn styles, 100% cotton, compact yarns for knitting applications, extended FAQs and enhanced readability.

Frequent Occurrences: Quality evaluation for conductive yarns

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS THE FUTURE OF QUALITY MANAGEMENT: PREVENTIVE ACTION USTER launches five value modules for the Quality Management Platform at ITMA Visitors to ITMA 2019 will see the present and future of textile quality management. A world in which substandard quality is actually prevented – instead of just being monitored and removed.

This new reality for mills enables data-based preventive control. It is delivered exclusively by Uster Technologies through USTER® QUALITY EXPERT, the ultimate Quality Management Platform. The system connects, integrates,

USTER® RSO 3D extends this functionality to quality mapping of the ring frame, based on individual quality data for each spindle. This helps to identify outlier sides, sections or spindles. Through seamless collaboration with Muratec QPRO EX/FPRO EX spindle identification, USTER® QUANTUM 3 and USTER® SENTINEL, the system can stop faulty spindles or poor quality cops and so prevent poor quality. This reduces the workload for operators, while increasing quality assurance.

Total Contamination Control (TCC) The double protection by USTER® JOSSI VISION SHIELD and USTER® QUANTUM 3 gives spinners control over balancing quality and productivity – a transparency that enhances cost efficiency and maximizes profits. It means they can make good choices about raw cotton purchases and reduce waste of ‘good’ fiber. Optimizing ejections and cuts gives precise control over levels of contamination, ensuring the yarn meets customer demands.

Alarm center This provides direct guidance to machine operators, alerting the appropriate personnel and pointing them to the exact location of an issue. Knowledge from these alarms is stored and used for future reference, enabling even faster reactions. analyses and interprets vital quality information from every stage of the fiber-to-yarn process. This analysis is based on USTER® application know-how and produces alerts about exceptions and suggestions for fixing them, as well as improvements when necessary.

At ITMA, five ‘Value Modules’ for USTER® QUALITY EXPERT will be launched, after successful testing by customers around the globe. These modules will give spinners an objective and accurate view of the entire spinning process, leading to higher yields and consistent quality: ‘Managing a textile mill with quality in mind’ in practice.

Mill analysis Intelligent, data-based analysis by USTER® QUALITY EXPERT provides customers with an excellent overview of mill operations. Information is stored centrally, for easy access and total transparency. The result is savings in both time and money.

Yarn prognosis

Optimize ring spinning, control contamination – and much more

Accurate forecasting of how yarns will perform in downstream processes brings security and confidence to both spinners and their customers. It means spinning mills can isolate below-par quality and remove it, sending out only yarn which meets customer specifications.

The five Value Modules will give tangible benefits to operators, quality managers and mill managers.

Quality Management Platform for long-term business success

Ring Spinning Optimization (RSO)

By increasing productivity, the Quality Management Platform contributes directly to improved business security for textile producers. “The profitability and future sustainability of a textile mill depends a lot on the optimization of production and the predictability of produced quality,” says Thomas Nasiou, CEO of Uster Technologies. “Our customers are partners and we want to support them to stay successful and tackle challenges, by providing the best services and systems.”

RSO focuses on the most costly part of yarn making – ring spinning – using data from USTER® QUANTUM 3 yarn clearers at winding and USTER® SENTINEL in ring spinning to ensure yarn quality stays constant, even at high speeds. Spinners can correlate end-breaks with winding data, as well as with fiber properties, in a single system.

This results in an improved cop build-up quality, fewer quality variations and a reduction in alarms, delivering significant profitability increases to yarn producers.

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SHOW CALENDAR SEPTEMBER 2019 12-14 YARNEX

Tirupur/ India http://yarnex.in 17-19

PREMIERE VISION Paris / France www.premierevision.com

20-22 Textile Asia

Lahor / Pakistan www.textileasia.com.pk 24-26

IITEXPO MUMBAI 2019 Mumbai/ India www.pdexcil.org

25-27

Vibrant Terry Towel Global Expo Solapur / India www.vibrantterrytowel.com

25-27

Yarn Expo 2019 Shanghai/ China https://yarn-expo-autumn.hk.messefrankfurt.com

25-27 Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabric Autumn

Shanghai/ China https://intertextile-shanghai-apparel fabrics-autumn.hk 25-27

CHINA INTERNATIONAL FASHION FAIR Shanghai/ China http://en.chiconline.com.cn/

27-29

CHINA INTERNATIONAL KNITTING FAIR Shanghai/ China http://en.phvalue.org

OCTOBER 2019 22-24 FILTECH Cologne/Germany

www.filtech.de

NOVEMBER 2019 1-4 MTG

Yangon/ Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com 12-14 International Sourcing Expo

Melbourne / Australia www.internationalsourcingexpo.com 13-15 INTEX SOUTH ASIA

Colombo / Srilanka www.intexfair.com/ 16-18 TexHub

Istanbul / Turkey www.texhubistanbul.com/tr/

20-23 VTG 2019

Ho Chi Minh city/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com 25-28 SHANGHAITEX 2019

Shanghai / China www.shanghaitex.cn 27-30 WEAVES 2019

Erode/ India http://texvalleyindia.com/

DECEMBER 2019 5-8 ITMACH INDIA

Gandhinagar / India www.itmach.com ITES 5-8

Gandhinagar / India www.itsexhibition.com 18-20 YFA

Bhilawara/ India http://yfatradeshow.com 20-22 YARNEX

Ludhiana / India http://yarnex.in/

JANUARY 2020 7-10 HEIMTEXTIL 2020

Frankfurt / Germany heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com 10-13 DOMOTEX 2020

Hannover / Germany www.domotex.de 20-24 Udyog 2020

Surat / India www.udyog.sgcci.in 30-31 NGF 2019

Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in FEBRUARY 2020 14-16 ITME AFRICA 2020

Ethopia / Africa www.itme-africa.com 20-23 DTG 2020

Dhaka/ Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com

20-22 Techtexil INDIA

Mumbai / India techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com

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INTERVIEW 4 THINGS INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY SHOULD DO IMMEDIATELY TO ADDRESS GLOBAL COMPETITION 2. Large scale manufacturing: We need large scale apparel manufacturing in India. We need big numbers for making bigger profits. Right now with small scale production, India is not fit for a large scale export. Thus, for bagging bigger orders from various countries, India needs a large size production units for which the governments should bring special scheme for the apparel sector.

3. Product diversification: Out of 27 apparel items, we are commanding a decent size of business only in six materials. There are a few items where we are not even present. Business owners should think on those lines and we should have a clear idea on having diverse products and the government should also come up with a favourable duty structure. This will be possible if all raw materials fall under the same GST slabs.

PRABHU DAMODARAN Indian Texpreneurs Federation Indian Texpreneurs Federation was formed by like-minded individuals from various functions of the textile industry right from spinning, weaving and more. The key motive behind this forum is to bring cooperative competition for collaborative growth. In an exclusive chat with Textile Value Chain, Prabhu Damodharan, Convenor of the forum speaks on the key challenges and steps which are ahead for the Indian textile industry as a whole.

Four key aspects Indian Textile industries Should adopt: 1.Value-added product: This is the foremost aspect of the entire value chain. Within the apparel export, we need to capture the value-added-products. For example, if you analyze the top items from the apparel export in India, out of the top 30 high volume products, 43% earn below USD 6. India’s single largest export is a T-Shirt which is at USD 2.4. This situation should change as India should move from low-value-product towards high-value-products. At present, while the existing products might be profitable, we should also consider the increase in manufacturing costs.

August 2019

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4. Market diversification: This is another need for the industry on an emergency basis. Exporters depending solely on selected markets is not advisable. There is an urgent need to diversify into markets like Japan, Russia, Brazil, and others.

Prabhu says that the current export market is close to USD 37 Billion and domestic is USD 100 Billion and Tamil Nadu has the advantage of having the entire manufacturing Eco-system for textiles. “For every 70 km, there is a textile hub either in the manufacturing or service related to textile. These were naturally built and hold a history of more than 100 years”, he says.

Market intelligence platform of ITF: ITF has close to 700 members representing the entire value chain. Some of the key activities of the forum include sharing knowledge on a daily basis, collectively sourcing raw materials. The major aim of the forum is to work with the cooperative competition to achieve collaborative growth. One of the key innovation of the association is the market intelligence platform. “We had created this platform where everyone shares the data they sell. Based on the inputs from them, we produce results and help the business owners analyze the trends in an effective manner. “, he says.

The association also conducts regular events and seminars on a wide range of topics to educate their members.

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10th Edition

Apparel Accessories Textiles Tuesday 12 – Thursday 14 November 2019 Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre

Exhibit at Australia’s premier global apparel sourcing show for apparel, accessories and textiles Co located with

APPLY TO EXHIBIT: WWW.INTERNATIONALSOURCINGEXPO.COM Partners

Enquiries 50

Organised by

Julie Holt Exhibition Director

M: T:

+61 (0) 449 148 886 +61 (0) 3 9596 9205

E: julie@iecgroup.com.au August 2019 www.textilevaluechain.com E: sourcingsales@iecgroup.com.au W: internationalsourcingexpo.com

INTERVIEW TAIWAN CONTRIBUTES 70% OF WORLD FUNCTIONAL FABRICS tional fabric which includes sportswear for brands like Nike, Adidas, Puma etc. are supplied from Taiwan and made up of synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon.

Taiwan country not only known for synthetics but even for cotton in past but with time we diverted to synthetic.

From Cotton yarn to synthetic yarn evolution, we developed knitting, dyeing, processing technique. Taiwan textile machinery manufacture unfortunately not strong in spinning but we are strong in knitting, dyeing and finishing.

How do you compete with other country?

Well, we are the hidden champion that we support. We developed economy by supplying around 70% functional fabric. Many textile knitting machinery companies are major supplier of Nike or Adidas. Corporate brands provide their projects and we collaborate with them.

Which part of the world you have major customers?

JAMES C.C. WANG President TAMI (Taiwan Association of Machinery Industry)

TAMI is Taiwan Association of Machinery Industry which is the biggest association in Taiwan which includes textile, CNC machinery, plastic, food, medical machine etc.

We are member of co-association of 7000 members in Taiwan.

How many Textile machinery Manufacture member you have?

Textile we have nearly 300 members. We are not the biggest in number of members but from Taiwan production and also the export value of textile machinery, we are number 5 in the world for the export of textile machinery

In Which segment Taiwan Machinery is strong ?

Around 70% of revenue comes from China, Vietnam India, Indonesia, Thailand, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Turkey. Trade war of China and US helped us to enter this market. We spent lots of time in travel for searching and meeting major customer across the world. Psychologically we are more conservative, spending on new projects, new investment made many optimistic changes in Cambodia and Indonesia. Entire supply chain has been moved to these countries by Central America.

Industrial 4.0, reduced the entry barrier of technician. Unfortunately, many young people think that textile is the sunset industry but in fact, it is not. Textile is about our daily necessities and it is all related to high technology. We have to think and contribute towards reducing / lowering down entry barrier. Make more and more people coming into this industry to better human’s environment and life.

That is why Pailung developed MES(Manufacturing Execution System). We believe that the real smart machine should contain “Big Data” and “Smartly controlling machinery”. So, not just focus on the data analysis system, Pailung puts much effort into the machine control and self-adjustment by feedbacks. Those frameworks link all the smart system together and make all the production more optimizing.

Taiwan plays a key role for supplying functional fabric which is for sportswear and outdoor wear. 70% of func-

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INTERVIEW INDIAN GARMENT SECTOR UNDERGOES TRANSFORMATION IN B2B PURCHASE PATTERNS, PAYMENT TERM cannot anymore be your cost of production and therefore the cost of production does not determine the selling price, the selling price determines the cost and the other way round. That is the biggest change around, be it a consumer-level or at the retailer level, people are looking at the price.

How this year expo is different from earlier versions?

We have paid a lot of attention to the esthetic and overall appearances of the fair. The look and feel of the expo is different completely from the earlier versions. Earlier, there was feedback that there were no enough places for the visitors to rest. We had built lounges where the retailers can sit down.

RAHUL MEHTA President CMAI (Clothing Manufacturer Association of India) The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) hosted its 69th National Garment Fair at the Bombay exhibition center, NSE Complex, Goregaon, Mumbai. The 4-day event was inaugurated by Chief Guest of the Fair and President of CMAI Rahul Mehta. The B2B fair hosted over 1,000 exhibitors representing close to 1,100 brands delving into their displays and the overall ethos of their respective labels sprawled across approximately 7,00,000 sqft. In an exclusive chat with Textile Value Chain, Rahul Mehta, speaks on the expo pattern, trends in the industry. Edited excerpts.

What are the key trends you notice this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exhibition?

The price has definitely become a very important factor and you can no longer charge on the basis of your cost.

Earlier if INR 100 is our cost and we require a 50% margin, then INR 100 +INR 50 become our selling price. Now, if INR 125 is the correct selling price and if you still want to get a 50% margin then our cost has to be below INR 75. We have to figure out how to get that INR 75. Thus, the whole thinking has turned totally, the starting point

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Thanks to the online registration growing every time, the participants need not stand in the queue wasting time. We had increased the number of registration desks to avoid situations earlier where retailers have to stand more than an hour just to get them registered. The registration process gets over maximum in fifteen minutes now.

With the increase in the participants, we had made the exhibition happen for four days. This will give ample time for the visitors to plan their visit to the event. We had also designed in such a way, the navigation is easy, thanks to the kiosks installed.

Where are the visitors from?

Local visitors (Mumbai) are always more. Next, we had enough participation from the Western part of India. We had made a special focus for Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh. Thus, there are about 450 retailers who are specifically coming from these two states on our invite.

How much does quality play a role in the purchase decision?

Earlier business happened through relations. Now everybody gives quality and one can no longer say that X makes good quality and Y doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make good quality. While quality has become a basic fact, what we provide beyond quality matters today. The textile industry should constantly and broadly get defined into one of two segments- either you are creating the brand or you are manufacturing a product. Manufacturing a product and creating a brand out of it demands a different skill set. Those who are good at manufacturing are moving out of the branding space and more of those who are good at creating brand are moving out of the manufacturing space, focusing on

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August 2019

INTERVIEW the marketing point. Given that online sale is continuing to do well, but the MBO market is not diminishing. You can witness this with the number of buyers who are attending the expo. The market is opening for small players, regional market, organized manufacturing, and organized retailers.

From a retailer point of view, other than price is there anything they look at?

Obviously the liability of service, the liability of supplies, the consistency with which you are giving your creativity and designs, variance all that also becoming important.

Just because a customer had purchased once, we cannot expect them buying from us regularly. We are in constant pressure to prove consistency. Customers want faster deliveries as they cannot wait for 3 months for delivery.

While buying, the customers also look at your presence online and they want your presence in small to large formats.

What trend do you notice in terms of bulk purchase patterns?

Small retailers prefer small-time brands which are not

available in the large formats. In general, in large formats, there is some of the discounts happen and these people cannot sustain in the network. Retailers prefer brands or labels which are not on sale trend. Another trend that is happening from the retailer end is that even the smaller retailers are moving to what is known as the SOR model (Sale or return). This was practiced only by Multi-brandedoutlets earlier.

What is your take on the payment cycle?

Payment is becoming a major issue. In fact, it used to be worst during the 80s and 90s. In the last 20 years, it has significantly improved. But again in the last two-three years, the payment schedule has started getting longer.

But fortunately, the bad debts have come down.

Are you planning to take this exhibition to other places?

National government fair has to be in one place. However, we will expand this to other places also. We are planning to have smaller events on product-focused. Expect other format events in new geographies.

INDIAN EXPORTERS FOCUS ON DOMESTIC MARKET IS A NEGATIVE SIGN Exporters in India are feeling the heat in the global business post tough competition from countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh and other countries. According to Rajiv Dewan, President, Garment Exporters Association of Rajasthan (GEAR), one of the leading forums for the exporters speak on the current trends in the way exporters are seeing the market. Edited excerpts.

How do you see the trend of exporters focusing on the domestic market?

It is not a good sign. For an exporter, the international market is always a better place to play. Someone who had focused only on the global market will never be happy selling the products in the domestic market. However, to be honest, since the exports are down, policies of the government are not that lucrative or supportive, looking to the circumstances for the competition that we have to do with the other Western and European countries. So we are hardly left with anything else rather than coming to the domestic segment.

RAJIV DEWAN President GEAR ( Garment Exporters Association of Rajasthan)

August 2019

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Due to our stringent laws in export, we are not able to afford a better rate against global competitors. The export market is getting thinner day by day. The buyers are getting better options in terms of pricing from Vietnam,

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INTERVIEW Myanmar, Bangladesh, China, and other countries.

What are the factors that are making you think opportunities are over outside India?

The Government was giving incentives and benefits. However, that too makes us compete with the other countries on the pricing factor. On the other side, the labor cost has gone up in the last four to five years almost by 20% to 25%. Post GST, the price control of all the yarns, fabrics, dyeing and printing is beyond control. They are not leaving aside the benefits of the excise that is vanished from the product, but Government is making no control while the prices are going out of the freeze. At the end of the day, the cost of garment manufacturing has gone up in terms of labor, accessory, and fabric which are an alarming issue now. Thus, exporters, to stabilize the business, are focusing on the domestic market.

In the meanwhile, FDI is also planning to play a big role in India.

It was earlier predicted, that foreign brands are going to enter India market. Now what the Government policies are for the FDI are not clear. Because they are changing the policy every now and then. Till they come out with some fixed planning or programming for the local manufacturers, it is difficult to comment anything on that aspect.

However, in the domestic market Payments are not up to the mark.

Don’t you think in this recent Union textile budget was a friendly one?

Yes tremendously. But on the implementation part, we have to ensure that those are materialized. The Central Government says they had went upon boosting the exports and they are looking for the growth of the SMEs. However, I think it is focused only on electronics or technology sector only. Textile industry as such, they have drastically reduced the schemes and advantages. To our surprise, the new state government here in Rajasthan is supporting us and they are ready to listen to our issues and make efforts to resolve the same.

What is your expectation from the Central Government?

The Central Government should realize the ground-level reality. They have to understand that we Indian exporters are competing with the global markets, which means that the Indian government should compete with other government in providing facilities. Earlier they said ‘no’ which is fine, However, now, the issue is the sustainability and the government cannot expect us to invest in infrastructure for increasing the export. Rather they should help us reduce our expenses.

On the positive side, we are happy with many state governments coming up with special policies for Textile industry as a whole. As known, textile industry is one of the key industry which provides employment, including women. The government should listen from the industry beyond any social and economic and geographical factors.

Not just listening to one industry body and framing the policies will never be good.

Advt.

Export is a bit better compared to domestic payments and exporting is our first love. In export, what people do normally is on the LC (Letter of Credit) basis. In case if we are getting some favorable aspects like incentives or subsidy we will stick on only with the exports. However, the challenge is the bureaucracy and government doesn’t want to listen to these. Some consideration of the exports should

be made obviously because payment wise, working wise, we have been into exports almost from the last four decades, so that has gone into our blood.

Export & Import

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HO : A-403, Nirav Park, Behind Maruti Apartment, Opp. Kiran Diamond, Umiya Mandir Road, Varachha Road, Surat – 395006 Email : bipinvora1959@gmail.com , voraassociate1@gmail.com Mob:- 8128 12 0707, Office Tel No : 0261-4897444 www.textilevaluechain.com

August 2019

INTERVIEW SALE OF ETHNIC WEAR HIGH IN SOUTH INDIA

BY TRADITIONAL DISTRIBUTORS

MUKESH THAKKAR Managing Director JALARAM CREATIONS

ing more among the customers and retailers were behind that. This time, gowns and small frocks are doing great off late.

What are the key factors that make your product unique?

Jalaram Creation is one of the leading manufacturer and wholesaler of girls ethnic wear that include, indo western, gown, dress, frock, suit and more. In an exclusive chat with Textile Value Chain, Mukesh Thakkar , Managing Director of JALARAM CREATIONS speaks on the various trends in kids shopping. Edited excerpts.

We focus mainly on the finishing and rate factor. Design is equally a key factor to make our product stand out in the crowd. Before designing a product, we focus on how the material and design of the products work in different conditions. Also, we provide the best quality amongst the wild range in our product.

What are the latest trends in the kids garments?

In todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s changing trends, how do you think traditional wears are selling?

The latest trend among the kids clothing is with the materials like Glitter and other heavy quality satin material.

Even our key focus is around that. Other than that regular designer collections are moving good across India. This trend is more common for the age group 1 year to teen age size. The key trend we find is, earlier, the ethnic wear use to be so heavy. However, the trend is changing and now we see simple ethnic wears are selling more.

Yes. Trends are changing. There are some places where we find ethnic wear is still a trend. For example, Tamil Nadu has many festivals and the culture there demands ethnic wears. Thus I find the Tamil Nadu is a key market for us.

It also depends on your marketing.

How are the models you think are perfo rming well?

Explain your manufacturing facility?

Today, any product is decided with the quality and look of the material. More than design, it is the material which decides the sale. Even though the routine gowns, frocks are sold, there are varieties of materials we find its trending. In the last season ghaghra and plazzos were trend-

We are having the state-of-the art facility. Most of the machines are from China and we are having all the latest machines needed for the fine finishing of the products.

We are not focusing majorly online as our sale through traditional distributors and retailers are performing good

August 2019

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INTERVIEW SHIRT BRAND HUBERT OZZ HAS REDEFINED SHOPPING EXPERIENCE BY PROVIDING CUSTOMIZED SHIRTS FOR THE BUYERS IN A RETAIL STORE. To address this, the brand has brought a kiosk, which is claimed to be the first-of-its-kind in the Indian garment industry will help the customer design his own shirt. Using this customer can design the color, pattern, size and also can chose the material of collars, cuffs, kajs, buttons and pockets. Using the 3-Dimentional views, the customer will also get an advantage of viewing the finished image of the garment. This customization will help the customer to make a quality purchase while for the retailer, it will save time, stocks and aging materials too. The manufacturer right now has brought this customization option only for shirts. The brand is serving for men between the age group of 14 to 72.

According to Varun Sharma, who heads the marketing in the organization, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The initial reception for the new technology is welcoming. Asked if the computer-based interactive devise will change the way in-store sales work, the company feels that the role of a store-sales professional will be an additional advantage as the seller inside the store will have to explain the customer, design elements, types of materials, basics of size and more.â&#x20AC;?

VARUN SHARMA

Store sizes and categories:

V.P. Marketing Hubert ozz The idea behind this concept is to enrich the retail get rid off the stocks. The creators of the product feel that the readymade garments for men have evolved over the ages. However, we have not attained a position where the readymade apparel is a right fit for everyone. In most cases, the shirts in trial room are tested on the basis of shoulder size while factors like tummy size, differences in chest sizes are hardly found fitting.

Our own stores are sized around 200 to 250 square feet while in a multi-branded retail store; we will be present in a dedicated 100 square feet area. Currently the challenge faced by the retailer in such solution is the availability of space in a MBO stores. At present the retailer is present in 24 outlet while 20 are franchise stores as a shop-in-shop model and 4 dedicated stores. Even though the concept goes every geography in a city, the retailer prefers to be present only in high-streets. The retailer is planning to expand the retail presence in the tier-2 and tier-3 cities.

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August 2019

rd INTL. TEXTILE MACHINERY & ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION

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5 6 7 8 December 2019 The Exhibition Centre, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India

DISCOVER PROMISING MARKETS & EXPLORE NEW CUSTOMERS

See the latest textile machinery and technology, experience it first hand

Meet the technical experts from leading textile machinery & technology suppliers, Industry professionals. Discuss business ideas & network

Learn about the trends, developments & opportunities. Share knowledge and fine-tune ideas CONFERENCES & SHOWS: “Sommet-De-Couleur- 2019” By SDC International “World Costume 2019” Fashion Show By ISFT College & Institute Largest Textile Machinery Exhibition of 2019 in India

One of the Top Two Textile Machinery Exhibitions in India

35,000+ Business Visitors from Pan India

30,000+ Sqm of Exhibition Space

Right Exhibition for those who missed ITMA Barcelona ITMACH India assisted in Technology Adoption by Industry, Stimulated Investment

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Stall Booking Enquiry:

Shell Scheme: US$ 250 / ` 12,000 per Sq. Meter.

Bare Space: US$ 225 / ` 11,000 per Sq. Meter.

GST applicable 18% Note: Foreign Exhibitors MUST pay Participation Fee in US Dollar

Arvind Semlani: +91 9833977743 | info@ITMACH.com

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The Ahmedabad Textile Processors’ Association

August 2019

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SIRIUS TWISTING TECHNOLOGY

Excellence through time

Sirius represents the Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-forone twisting, ensuring high structural standardization, a wide range of feeding and spindle dimensions for every yarn type and count.

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SIMPLE, RELIABLE STATE OF THE ART TWISTING

Excellence through time Marketed by: A.T.E. ENTERPRISES PRIVATE LIMITED A-19, CTS No 689,Veera Desai Road Andheri (West) Mumbai - 400053, India Tel: +91-22-66766100 E-mail: spinning@ateindia.com

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Cosmos represents a further Savio proposal in the field of traditional Two-for-one twisting, ensuring maximum cost-effectiveness of the technological process through manufacturing solutions that allow a reduction in investment with a minimum of energy consumption.

In this way, the machine productivity, the quality of the end product, the technological flexibility are maximized together with low investment cost.

SAVIO INDIA LTD. Tamaraikulam P.O, Kinathukadavu T.K Pollachi, Coimbatore - 642109 Tamil Nadu, India Tel. +91 4259 201500 E-mail: mail@savioindia.in

SAVIO MACCHINE TESSILI S.P.A. Via Udine, 105, 33170 Pordenone, Italy Tel. +39 0434 3971 Fax +39 0434 397599 www.saviospa.it

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August 2019

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