TEXTILE
VALUE CHAIN
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December 2017
Volume 5
Issue 12
Interview : CTMA / SAG Market Report : Yarn / Apparel Index / Surat Sustainable Fibre : Milk Brand Update : Liva/ Beaulieu Yarns / Biba / Uster Technical Article : Control Techniques for Noise Pollution in Textile Industry: An Overview Fashion Tips
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YEARS
India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of
Torrey Twister
GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS
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RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
TEMPLES
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December 2017
December 2017
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SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS
MR.SURESH SARAF
MR. NAYAN SARAF
Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com
6 Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 www.textilevaluechain.com
December 2017
CONTENT 9- ECONOMY UPDATE: Key risk events loom as we bid adieu to 2017 by Mr. Abhishek Goenka, IFA Global MARKET REPORT
December 2017 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha T.
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist and Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : knitexperts@rediffmail.com Tel : +91-9818026572
11- Yarn Report 14- CMAI Apparel Index 15- Surat update 17- SUSTAINABLE FIBRE: Clothing from Milk Fibre 19- TECHNICAL ARTICLE: control techniques for noise pollution in textile industry by Dr. V.D. Gotmare, VJTI, Mumbai 23- EVENT REPORT : TEXPROCIL Annual Award 24- GOVT. POLICY: Cabinet approves “ scheme for capacity building in Textiles Sector” BRAND UPDATE 25- Liva 26- Beaulieu Yarns 27- BIBA Apparels 28- USTER NEWS 10- Splash Introduces sustainable intelligent garments powered by N9 Pure Silver 10- Picanol group employees raise 10,675 euros for kinderkan kerfonds 16- SIMA hails the Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector 29- 22nd AEPC Export Awards 2016-17 presentation ceremony 30- ‘Best Industry-Linked Technical Institute-2017 Award For –DKTE 30- COLORANT Ltd ,Ahmedabad sponsors SDC Technical Sem¬inar –Bhiwandi held at Thane West ( Maharastra) 31- Rupa & Company To Launch ‘Fruit Of The Loom’ Inner¬wear Brand In India Soon 31- Alcis Sports Launches First Mono-Brand Store In Kochi 34- The Mid-Tem Review of Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20 is disappointing for the manmade fibre textile segment 34- Woods Apparel To Get Separate Stores For Its Fashion & Casual Wear 36 - FASHION TIPS 33- SHOW CALENDAR INTERVIEW 35- China Textile Machinery Association participates in ITMACH 2017 36- SAG : Dilip Patel, Vice President and Bhavesh Thakar, Secretary General
Advertiser Index Back Page : Raymond
Page 5: ITF –Dubai
Back Inside : RSWM
Page 6: SKBS
Front Inside : Raysil
Page 37: Vora Associate
Page 3: SGS Innovation
Page 38: Non Woven Tech Asia
Page 4: Sanjay Plastic
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EDITORIAL
Glimpse of 2017 which changed textile industry
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ndian Government introduced long awaited new Tax structure ie. Good and Service Tax (GST) this year, textile being dominated by SME sector, many textile cluster got rejection from this organised tax structure. Surat cluster closed for almost 1 month to show their non acceptance of GST and lost crores of rupees and this created huge unemployment which caused daily wage worker migrated to other industry for their employment which caused Scarcity of worker in textile industry. Rebate of State Levies (ROSL) introduced this year to support export of garment and made ups outwards shipment, introduced at 1.55% later changed to 2.20%. MEIS (Merchandise Exports from India Scheme) upgraded incentive structure from 2% to 4%. Gujarat Government announced Textile Policy 2017, aims to target garment industry with USD 250mn investment over the next 5 years and targeting 1lakh creation of new jobs under Garment Package. Textile Ministry organised the Trade Exhibition in Gandhinagar, capital of Gujarat in middle of the year with the purpose of integrating entire textile value chain segment and promote business of the industry by minimum cost. Textile Sector Skill Council got the award of “Champion Sector Skill council� for its outstanding work in establishing skill training ecosystem for textile and handloom industry. New Development strategies from government have been incorporated for giving new breath and promote silk, jute and handloom industry. New Fashion designer has been encouraged to tie-up directly with handloom clusters. CMAI (Clothing Manufacturer Association of India) and PDEXCIL (Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council), two major Garment and Fabric association tie up for integration of value chain which will boost the powerloom sector as a whole. Donear group acquired GBTL (Grasim Bhiwani Textile Limited) and OCM Woolen Mills. Above are few highlights which will change the future of textile industry in coming years. We wish our industry contribute Productive and Positive in New year 2018..!!!
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
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December 2017
ECONOMY UPDATE
Key Risk Events Loom As We Bid Adieu to 2017 Heading into 2018, we are in a phase of synchronized global growth. Business sentiment and consumer confidence is on the rise, generally across major economies 2017 has been an exceptional year for risk assets, especially equities. Major equity indices have hit new all time highs. Low inflation and wage growth in developed economies, uncharacteristic of this phase of economic cycle has allowed central banks to withdraw accommodation gradually. As a result, global liquidity has been chasing yields and this has resulted in a phenomenal rally in emerging market stocks, bonds and therefore currencies. There is quite a bit in store for the remainder of 2017 that could set the tone for risk sentiment in 2018. On the global front, the Congress passed a stop gap measure that has pushed the US debt-ceiling deadline to 22nd December. The bone of contention between the Democrats and the Republicans to keep the government from shutting down is hike in the non-defense spending cap (that the Democrats are in favor of). The Democrats want hike in defense spending to be matched by a similar hike in domestic spending. Democrats are pushing for legal status for undocumented immigrants who were brought to the US as children and for continuing funding of Obama care insurers. Republicans would need some Democrat votes to pass the spending bill for the next two years in the Senate. That would entail some sort of a compromise on either or both of these contentious issues. The developments around the tax bill would also be extremely crucial. Both, the House and the Senate have passed their respective versions of the bill but the challenge lies in reconciling both the versions, as there are considerable differences. The Republicans would have to chalk out a final plan and both the House and Senate would have to pass that plan again. The Senate is constrained by the Byrd Rule according to which the tax bill can only increase the federal deficit by up to USD 1.5 Tn in the first 10 years and by nil thereafter. Therefore, many of the sops proposed in the Senate version are set to fade out from 2025 onwards. The house bill on the other hand is likely to increase the federal budget deficit after 10 years according to CBO (Congressional Budget Office) making it unviable under Byrd Rule in the Senate. This is the biggest difference besides many other smaller ones pertaining to start date for corporate tax cuts, mortgage deductions, Child tax credit, Obamacare’s individual mandate etc. The impact on the USD and US rates would depend on whether the final plan has deficit funded tax cuts or deficit neutral tax reform with the former likely to push USD and US rates significantly higher and the later not changing status quo much. Deficit funded tax plan would most likely elicit a change in
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US Federal Reserve’s reaction function and may cause it to normalize policy sooner than currently anticipated. The markets would look forward to the FOMC meet on 13th December to ascertain if there is any change in median dots (indicating expected trajectory of Fed Funds rate of FOMC members). The US Dollar could rally if median dot plot indicates four hikes in 2018 compared to three in the September dot plot. According to the latest non-farm payroll report, the economy added a higher than expected, 228,000 jobs in November and unemployment rate remained constant at 4.1% well below the NAIRU (non accelerating inflation rate of unemployment). However wage growth continues to remain tepid. This suggests that most of the jobs that are being added are the ones in industries where median wages are low. On the domestic front, Q2 GDP came in at 6.3% (compared to Q1 print of 5.7%). Particularly encouraging is the pick up in manufacturing activity. Average manufacturing PMI in Q3 FY18 has been higher than Q2 FY18 which suggests that Q3 growth numbers could be even better. New export orders component of manufacturing PMI has also broken its declining trend, which implies exports would be less of a drag on growth in Q3 unlike Q1 and Q2. In October the core sector comprising of eight key industries grew 4.7%, unchanged from August. Inflation is likely to continue firming up gradually on the back of higher food and fuel prices but will continue to remain within RBI’s comfort zone. The RBI kept monetary policy unchanged in a 5-1 vote in its December policy meeting with one MPC member voting for a rate cut. The market senses that with global crude prices sustaining above USD 55 per barrel mark we could have seen the last of rate cuts in the current easing cycle and that the RBI would keep rates on hold in the foreseeable future. The benchmark 10y yield has been rising and touched 7.20% in trade as market prices in no further rate cuts and takes cognizance of the fact that global rates could also head higher in 2018 due to increase in supply as central banks trim asset purchases and reduce balance sheet size, Though the trade deficit is likely to widen on account of higher crude import bill and weaker exports, the overall balance of payment situation is likely to remain comfortable if FPIs do not turn net sellers of Indian debt and equity. Drawdowns related to foreign currency funding availed by corporates has kept a lid on up side in USD/INR in the recent past. The key risk on the domestic front in the near term would be the outcome of the Gujarat state elections. Exit polls indicate a strong show by BJP in the first phase. While a BJP victory is largely priced in, any underperformance would be negative for domestic stocks, bonds and the Rupee. Considering that the Gujarat elections do not spring any
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ECONOMY UPDATE major positive or negative surprise (i.e. a modest victory for the BJP), the Rupee could end the calendar year in 64.35-64.65 range. The key risk in 2018 for domestic markets would stem from union budget, crude prices, and most importantly US rates. The way US rates pan out would depend to a great extent on the contours of the final tax plan. Tail Risk could stem from developments in Middle east, Korean Peninsula and Italian elections.
Mr. Abhishek Goenka
(CEO & Founder : IFA Global)
NEWS
SPLASH introduces Sustainable intelligent garments powered by N9 Pure Silver TM Splash Fashions, a global leader for fast-fashion retail will be launching anti-bacterial garments powered by N9 Pure SilverTM at all outlets across the Middle East. The technology aims to enable garments to fight against odor causing bacteria. Owing to the fact of a growing hygiene quotient in consumer perspectives, Splash Fashions looks to inject this technology through their range of lounge wear, men’s inner wear and socks. Speaking on Splash’s association with N9 Pure Silver Mr. Raza Beig, Director, Landmark Group & CEO, Splash, ICONIC & Landmark International, said, “Bacteria on garments can no longer be ignored by consumers and brands. This thought in itself has created the demand for smarter garments and being at the forefront of giving our customer the best, we have brought this unique feature to the Middle Eastern market and chose to partner with N9 Pure Silver which is a globally recognized anti-bacterial technology” N9 Pure SilverTM, is a revolutionary Silver based Anti-bacterial technology that acts by controlling the growth of odour-causing bacteria on garments, making sure wearers stay fresh and productive all day. N9 Pure SilverTM is sustainable, non-leaching, zero VOC and has low Silver
loading properties that makes this technology the ideal solution for garment treatments. The technology is compatible with multiple substrates and processes, and provides long-lasting freshness and malodor control. Textile materials do not have any inherent antimicrobial properties. The natural properties of textile fibers provide room for the growth of microorganisms due to sweat. Humid and warm environments further aggravate the problem. Staining and the loss of performance of textile substrates is a result of microbial attack. The N9 Pure SilverTM finish is applied to textiles with the intention to protect the wearer from malodor and the textile substrate from degradation. The potential presented by N9 Pure SilverTM is immense. From articles of daily use, such as clothing, and bed linen, to food packaging and hair care - the opportunities are vast, making it an ideal solution for several industries. N9 Pure Silver™ also finds very interesting consumer applications on textiles as well as other non-textile substrates such as plastic packaging materials which can be made more hygienic. Cosmetics can be preserved and their antimicrobial properties can be enhanced. Shoes and leather articles can be made odour free and safe to touch using N9 Pure SilverTM.
NEWS
Picanol Group employees raise 10,675 euros for Kinderkankerfonds Last week, the Picanol Group employees in Ypres organized a winter event for the occasion of De Warmste Week of Music for Life.
Kinderkankerfonds, a charity selected by our employees that provides financial and psychological support to children with cancer and their families.
Many colleagues organized an activity, such as the electronic horse race of PsiControl, the VJ-jukebox, the sale of laser Christmas trees (Proferro), toasted sandwiches, a Jenever bar, sausages, Soup4Life and much more. All of these warm actions were aimed at raising money for
We are therefore very proud that together we managed to raise no less than 7,116 euros for Kinderkankerfonds. Given the success of all these activities, Picanol Group decided to increase this amount to 10,675 euros.
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December 2017
YARN REPORT
YARN PRICE WATCH REPORT POLYESTER CHAIN Ethylene prices in Asian markets inched up in November supported by healthy Chinese demand ahead of the 2018 term discussions and due to rising upstream values. In US, ethylene spot prices fell during the month amid restarting crackers and recently completed downstream capacity. In Europe, spot ethylene prices slipped as buyers had stock, bought earlier in the year. Prices averaged US$ 1,161.00-1,163.00 a ton CFR SE Asia, up 0.6% from October while European spot fell 6.1% to average Euro 969.90-974.90 a ton FD NWE. US spot prices were down 2.6% on the month to average US cents 27.45-27.95 per pound FD USG. Paraxylene prices in Asia were upduring the month on strong feedstock values and increasing demand in the region. In Europe, spot paraxylene prices rose to seven-month high in November, reflecting higher prices in Asia. In US, paraxylene prices inched up on tight supply in the region. Asian marker, the CFR China averaged US$ 896.40 a ton, up 5.4% from last month while European paraxylene rose 5.4% to US$ 807.20 a ton FOB Rotterdam. In US, spot paraxylene was at US $830 a ton FOB USG, up 2.5% on the month. Mono ethylene glycol prices in Asia gained in November amid high feedstock values and limited supply in the region. In US, spot MEG prices declined on slow demand. European mono-ethylene glycol spot prices slipped during the month amid balanced market fundamentals. MEG prices averaged US$ 902.40-909.00 a ton FOB SE Asia, up 1.7% in November while European spot was at Euro 930 a ton NWE FCA, down 2.1% on the month. US spot was at US$ 1,074-1,084 a ton FOB USG, fell 6.1% on the month. Purified terephthalic acid prices in Asia rose during the month on limited supply due to plant shutdowns amid brisk demand. In Europe, PTA prices were up on tight supply. Prices averaged US$ 695.00-702.00 a ton CFR China, up 6.3% from October while European price was at Euro 679a ton FD NWE, up 1.9% on the month. Polyester chip prices in Asia inched up on the back of high PTA and MEG cost. In China, semi dull chip prices were up bolstered by positive margins, strong demand and controllable inventory.Offers for semi dull chips was up0.7% to US$ 1,172-1,181a ton and super bright chip jumped 2.6% to US$ 1,194-1,200 a ton.
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Polyester filament yarn prices jumped in China in November on the back of low inventory and rigid needs.Trading atmosphere was favorable, as downstream mills moderately increased their procurement in the face of rising PFY prices. In India, PFY prices were stable in local currency but inched up in US$ terms during the month. In Pakistan, PFY offers were firm during the month. In China, POY 75/72 prices were up US cents 6 a kg at US$ 1.48-1.49 a kg in Shengze while Indian POY 130/34 prices were up US cent 1 at US$ 1.47 a kg. In Pakistan, 300/96 DTY prices were at US$ 0.60-0.70 a pound, unchanged on the month. Polyester staple fibre prices inched up in China during the month supported by firm raw material cost, decent demand and limited supply. In Pakistan, PSF was offered at a higher price during the month amid strong demand in polyester market. In India, PSF offers were revised up in November. In China, 1.4D PSF was at US$ 1.36-1.39 a kg, largely stable as compared to October. In India, 1.2D PSF prices were at US$ 1.34 per kg, up US cents 3 from last month. In Pakistan, prices in Karachi were at US$ 1.291.31 a kg, up US cents 2 on the month. NYLON CHAIN Benzene markets in Asia hit an eight-month high in November on strong buying interest and high upstream prices. In US, spot benzene prices jumped on tight prompt supply during the month. Supply in the US has been tight since late October due to regional plant outages. In Europe, benzene spot market rose as significant volumes were still being shipped to the US where supply continued to be tight. Asian marker, FOB Korea surged 7.8% in November to average US$ 846.60-847.60 a ton while US spot prices were up 15.8% to US cents 333.35-333.45 per gallon FOB USG. European spot rose 15.9% to average US$ 922.20-923.20 a ton CIF ARA and US$ 928.10-929.10 a ton FOB Rotterdam, up 16.7% on the month. Caprolactum prices in Asia were up amid modest buying interest from the downstream. Domestic run rate was at 76.2% during the month. China’s Juhua is planning to shut its 100,000 tons per year CPL line from mid-December for maintenance which may last 15 days.Asian caprolactam spot prices averaged US$ 2,016.00-2,110.00 a ton in November, up 6.1% from last month.Sinopec raised November nomination to US$ 2,587 a ton while Fibrant raised November r nomination to US$ 2,603 a ton for liquid goods.
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YARN REPORT Nylon or polyamide chip prices were up in November supported by firmness in caprolactum market. Producers operated at slightly lower rates as compared to last month. However, as downstream buyers purchased cautiously, pressure on the supply side still existed, especially for high-priced bright and semi-dull nylon-6 chips. Offers for Taiwan-origin chips averaged US$ 2,350-2,380 a ton, up 5% from last month. In China, bright conventional spinning nylon-6 chips were priced at US$ 2,619-2,833, down 6.9% from October while semi-dull chips were offered at US$ 2,833-2,891 a ton, up 0.3% on the month. Nylon filament yarn prices inched up amid firm raw material cost during the month. Market largely remained range bound supported by chip cost and modest demand. Buyers followed up actively, however high offers could hardly attract the interest. Industrial run rate was at 78%, with capacity at around 3.5 million tons a year. Demand was on a need-to basis. In China, semi-dull FDY70D/24F was traded at US$ 3.43-3.55 a kg, up US cents 2 from previous month while FDY40D were at US$ 3.66-3.78 a kg, up US cents 8. ACRYLIC CHAIN Propylene prices in Asia fell in November amid ample availability and weak buying interest in the region.In Europe, balanced-tolengthening spot availability softened spot price trend during the month. In US, spot propylene prices were stable to up amid decreasing inventories, leading to tight supply. Asian marker, FOB Korea averaged US$ 895.36-897.36 a ton, fell5.1% from October, and CFR China was at US$ 944.80-946.80 a ton, down4.1% from previous month. In Europe, CG propylene declined 4.3% to Euro776.40-780.40 a ton FD while spot polymer-grade propylene prices in US were at US$ 44.67-45.17 per pound ton FD, nearly flat on the month. Acrylonitrile prices in Asian markets moved up slightly, however, tightness of supply was easing somewhat amid plant restarts and relatively high run rates. In US, spot ACN prices weakened on increasing availability amid seasonal downturn in demand. In Europe, acrylonitrile prices were up taking cues from Asian markets.European prices inched up 2% to US$ 1,879.00-1,883.00 a ton CIF Med while US export assessments averaged at US$ 1,801.00-1,811.00 a ton USG, down 2.7% on the month. Asian marker, the CFR Far East Asia climbed1.5% to average US$ 1,961. 40-1,973.00 a ton. Acrylic staple fibre prices marched north in the Asian markets of China, India and Pakistan. In China, ASF offers
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hiked for the month reacting to the recent up trends in the ACN market. However, downstream converters reflected lackluster appetite for acrylic yarn currently, and coupled with high cost, they showed limited interest for ASF. The industrial run rate was at 76% during the month, so supply remained stable. In India, ASF prices continued the upward trend this month on persistent tightness in supply. In Pakistan, ASF prices was revised up during the month taking cues from other markets in the region. In China, offers for cotton-type staple were up US cents 9 at US$ 2.59-2.68 a kg and medium-length staple rose US cents 10 at US$ 2.60-2.68 a kg. Sinopec Chemicals issued its December contracts for ASF with 1.5D at 17.25-17.60 Yuan a kg (US$ 2.61-2.66 a kg) and medium length ASF at 17.3017.65 Yuan a kg (US$ 2.62-2.67 a kg). Indian offers for ASF were up INR 7 at INR 171.50-172.50 a kg (US$ 2.564-2.65 a kg, up US cents 11). In Pakistan, 1.2D ASF prices were at US$ 2.41 a kg, up US cents 30 on the month. VISCOSE CHAIN Viscose staple fibre prices declined in November on modest buying sentiment of market participants as downstream mills still showed low interest with sidelined stance. In China, offers for VSF averaged US$ 2.24 a kg, down US cents 17on the month.In Pakistan, VSF prices fell during the month. Prices in India rolled over during the month. In Pakistan, 1.5D VSF prices fell US cents 5at US$ 2.18 a kg. In India, producers’ prices were at US$ 2.29 a kg, up US cents 2from last month. Viscose filament yarn prices in Asian markets were largely unchanged during the month. In China, viscose filament yarn offers were stable despite slightly weak viscose staple fibre cost. VFY prices were firm amid modest liquidity and balanced fundamentals. Downstream converters generally purchased according to their own plans, and as a result demand moved slightly. In India, viscose filament yarn prices were firm amid decent demand. In China, 120D dull VFY offers inched up US cent1 at US$ 6.01 a kg while bright also up US cent 1at US$ 5.93 a kg. In India, 120D bright VFY was at US$ 5.62a kg, up US cents 3 from previous month. Offers for hardwood pulp and softwood pulp were at US$ 915-930 a ton and US$ 980 a ton respectively. COTTON US cotton futures gained in November supported by short covering after the monthly crop supply and demand report from the US government. Prices were also bolstered
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December 2017
YARN REPORT by strong buying amid December options expiry and mill fixations. Cotton was moving up because all the commodities were going up. The March contract on ICE Futures US gained 3.7% for the month to average US cents 70.33. The Cotlook A index inched up 3.3% closing November at an average of US cents 80.73 per pound. The China Cotton was down 0.3% on the month at 15,943.40 Yuan a ton. In Pakistan, cotton prices surged amid hectic buying by spinners. However, slow arrival of phutti (seed cotton) restricted the trading volume. The official spot rate averaged at Pak Rs 6,625.00 per month ex-Karachi, up 5% on the month. In India, cotton prices rose on the month due to fall in output as the crops were found to be infested with pink bollworms. India is expected to export early one-fifth less cotton as compared to previous estimations. Most varieties saw prices rise 0.2-4.1% in November. SPUN YARN Cotton yarn markets in November rolled over in China in line with overall stability in cotton market. Market sentiment was firm amid moderate transactions during the month. As cotton yarn market saw moderate transactions, and most orders were for short-term use, producers did not hold enough confidence on market sentiment in the future. In India, cotton yarn prices remained unchanged at the previous month’s level despite the new rise in cotton prices. In Pakistan, cotton fibre and yarn prices moved in tandem with each other this month. Cotton fiber prices rose sharply while yarn prices were also up, with demand still remaining very strong. In China, 32s carded cotton yarn in Shengze market was stable at US$ 3.48-3.55 a kg while 21s combed were at US$ 3.33-3.40 a kg, up US cents 2 from October. In India, 30s combed for knitting were at US$ 2.95 a kg, down US cents 2 on the month. In Pakistan, 20s carded yarn was at US$ 2.82 a kg, up US cents 10 on the month while 30s carded were at US$ 3.17 a kg, up US cents 4 from previous month. Polyester spun yarn prices in November jumped in China over a new rise in polyester staple fiber prices. In India, spun polyester yarn prices continued the downtrend this month and have lost INR 18 per kg in the last eight weeks. In Pakistan, polyester yarn prices were up in line with increasing PSF cost. In Shengze, offers for 32s polyester yarn were at US$ 2.04-2.05 a kg, up US cents 3 from Oc-
‘‘ ‘‘
tober. In India, 30 polyester knit yarns were at US$ 2.05 a kg, fell US cents 12 in Ludhiana market. In Pakistan, 30s spun polyester was at US$ 2.55 a kg, up US cents 2 on the month. Viscose spun yarn prices declined in China in tandem with falling viscose staple fiber prices. In Pakistan, viscose spun yarn prices edged down with relatively lower level of demand at the end of the season. In India, viscose spun yarn prices were revised down during the month. In Xiaoshan, 30s spun viscose were at US$ 2.86 a kg, down US cents 10 in the month. In India, 30s viscose prices were at US$ 2.67 a kg, down US cents 2 in Ludhiana market. In Pakistan, 35s viscose yarn fell US cents 12 at US$ 2.89 a kg in Karachi. Blended yarn prices were steady in China, fell in India while they rose in Pakistan during the month. In China, offers for PC yarn and PV yarn prices largely remained unchanged in November. However, PC yarn prices fell in US$ terms as the local currency was weak while US$ was strong during the month. In India, PV yarn offers declined during the month while PC yarn prices also edged down. In Pakistan, poly-cotton prices inched up while poly-viscose prices were stable during the month. Prices increase was limited due to slow domestic and international demand. In India, PC 30s (52/48) were at US$ 2.62 a kg in Ludhiana market, down US cent 1 from last month while PV 30s (65/35) were at US$ 2.39 a kg, up US cent 1 from last month. In Pakistan, PC 30s were flat at US$ 2.66 a kg on the Faisalabad market. In Qianqing market, polyester-cotton 32s (65/35) were traded at US$ 2.66 a kg, unchanged on the month while 45s (65/35) yarn were at US$ 3.60 a kg, rolled over on the month.
ALIYAN MIRZA
YarnsandFibers.com (YnFx)
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MARKET REPORT
CMAI APPAREL INDEX A report on CMAI’s Apparel Index for Q2 as it dips to 1.87 points, GST impacts business sentiment and Giant Brands thrive on. Q2 is the first quarter post-GST. And much like other sectors, apparel brands and retailers too were busy putting GST processes in place and sales suffered a big blow. July was the first month when the industry emerged after clearing pre-GST inventories. Interestingly, GST augured well for organised players, as bigger brands and organized players were quick to adapt, and this is evident in the Apparel Index of various brand groups. Bigger the brand group, higher the growth in this quarter.Giant Brands (turnover above R300 crores) clocked in 8.72 points, followed by Large Brands at 6.65 and Mid Brands 1.25 points; Small Brands which are generally managed by owners singlehandedly, recorded the lowest index growth of just 0.29 points. BIG BRANDS STAY POSITIVE DESPITE GST CMAl’s overall Apparel Index in Q2 was 1.87 points. The figure is almost 6.5 times higher than the index value for Small Brands (turnovers of Rs 10 to 25 crores) which is at 0.29 points. The index for Mid Brands (turnovers of R25-100 crores) is 1.25 points, and the overall index is 1.5 times higher than this figure. However, at 6.65 points, Large Brands’ growth is almost 3.5 times higher than the overall index. But as always, it’s the Giant Brands that have led growth in Q2, much like earlier quarters with a significant 8.72 points. Giant Brands have consistently been doing well every quarter.Notably, the index value for Giants Brands is 4.66 times higher than the Overall Index. Giant Brands managed a fabulous 8.72 points growth and increased Sales Turnover to 5.8 points.Comparatively, Large Brands Sales Turnover grew 4.4 points and Mid Brands Sales Turnover grew a meager 0.8. Small Brands, the laggards, recorded a negative Sales Turnover which was -0.8 points, this quarter. Overall, the Index Value, this quarter,saw most dynamism from Sales Turnover, other attributes like Sell Through, Inventory Holding and fresh Investments reflected a much lesser change. Q2 Apparel Index clearly indicates, once more, that Giant Brands have outdone Large, Mid and Small Brands. Small and Mid Brands could manage little growth in Sales Turnover, perhaps because the GST implementation process stalled or reduced deliveries during these months. Giant and Large Brands being more organised and better connected with organised retail through MBOs, EBOs and Large Format Stores managed their business and sales turnover well. Moreover, they increased sales turnovers significantly at 5.8 and 4.4 points respectively
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RISING INVENTORY HOLDINGS A BANE The index clearly reflects a strong correlation between Sales Turnover and Inventory Holding which impacts Investments. This quarter, the biggest effect was from GST, as brands across the board looked at ways to reduce its impact. As Sunil Kumar, Proprietor, Blueman explains, “The reason why our inventory holding increased is due to GST. The market slowed down and stocks had to be held. The other reason is, now there are plenty of ayers in the same segment and common itemsare available, so demand is low.” Agrees Nirmal, Owner, Detail Clothing, “The reason for a dip in our turnover is the market is slow since GST was incorporated. The parties whom we take orders from are disturbed. People doing job work stopped working, Customers reduced demand or material and stocks werestopped. Retail sales decreased.” This quarter nearly, 43 per cent brands reported an increase in Sales Turnover. It must, however, be noted, that since GST came into force from July 1, EOSS continued in the month of July in spite of major EOSS in the month of June (pre-GST), boosting sales turnover. Hence, the figures seem more inflated than actual sales growth. And as Usha Periasamy, Director-Operations & Brand, Classic Polo opines, “Yes, there is an incremental jump over last year in sales turnover and sell through for our brand. The primary reason is the design component clubbed with market expansion. It’s a blessing in disguise for all value for money brands post the erratic commercial/ economic policy changes, which have also added a certain throttle to the business, while overall market sentiments are a not so favourable for premium and luxury brands in India.” Inventory duration increased by 54 per cent across all brand groups. Samir Patel, Owner, Deal Jeans explains, “The reason for an increase in our inventory holding is not because of the market slowdown. It is more because we have increased the variety of items therefore, there are more products and inventory holding has gone up.” A comparison between Small and Big Brands indicate, the gap between Big and Small brands is the widest ever in this quarter, indicating Small Brands need to buck up and work to put their processes in place under the current GST regime. “Our Investments have increased as we have a huge stock of new arrivals. We wanted to make the market aware of our inventory strength. Hence, to create brand awareness, we have spent more on advertisements to capture the market,” avers Hemant Jaiswal, Business Head, Body-
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December 2017
MARKET REPORT care Creation. AVERAGE OUTLOOK FOR NEXT QUARTER While there may still be a sense of optimism about overall business especially among bigger brands, nearly 48 per cent brands have said their outlook for next quarter is average. Another 36 per cent feel the outlook is ‘Good’. And only 9 per cent foresee an ‘excellent’ outlook. At the same time, 7 per cent also feel it will be ‘Below Average’. It may be noted that generally, Q3 of the financial year, is seen as the best quarter as most festivals and weddings fall during this period, brands expect an average to a good season, coupled with almost dry supply chain and shelves in quest of fresh goods, post first quarter of GST. Consumers too, are expected to return to stores, GST and new processes would be settled in especially by Oct-Nov and this augurs well for business. CMAl’s Apparel Index aims to set a benchmark for the entire domestic apparel industry and help brands in taking informed businessdecisions. For investors, industry playApparel Index
Cumulative
Small
Mid
Large
Giant
Total Brands
100
61
20
10
9
Sales Turnover -
1.76
0.8
0.8
4.4
5.8
Sell Through
0.92
1.3
1
1.8
2.2
Inventory Holding 1.33
1.8
1.1
1.3
1.7
Investment
1.42
1.5
0.6
1.6
2.4
Overall Index Value
1.87
0.29
1.25
6.65
8.72
ers, stake holders and policy makers the index is a useful tool offering concrete and credible information, and is an excellent source for assessing the performance of the industry. The Index is analyzed by assessing the performance on four parameters: Sales Turnover, Sell Through (percentage of fresh stocks sold), number of days of Inventory Holding and Investments (signifying future confidence) in brand development and brandbuilding. The Apparel Index
POINTERS Q2 Apparel Index reflects little buoyancy in business. Index falls to 1.87 this quarter compared to 2.77 in Q1. Q2 is the first quarter post GST. Bigger the brand group, higher the growth, in this quarter• Giant Brands clocked in the highest index at 8.72 points. Small Brands recorded the lowest index growth at just 0.29 points. Sales Turnover for Giant Brands was the highest at 5.8. Small Brands recorded negative Sales Turnover, for the first time, at -0.8. Almost half the brands foresee an average outlook for next quarter.
SURAT UPDATE Surat will get Textile Skill development centre soon !!! Textile city Surat will have new skill development center in near future. Last week, The cabinet committee on economic affairs, has given its approval for Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS), a new skill development scheme covering the textile sector. This scheme will have an outlay of Rs 1,300 crore for 3 years. Industry sourses said, these center will develop in Surat, Ichalkaranji, Bhilwara, Tirupur, Varanasi, Malegaon, Pali and in Bhiwandi. The scheme will have ‘National Skill Qualification Framework (NSQF)’ compliant training courses with funding norms as per the common norms notified by Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship (MSDE). There are 6.5 lakh powerloom machines are installed in surat which produces app. 3 crore meter fabrics per day. Weaving industries in the city is unorganised and most labourers in the city are self-groomed without any proper technical skill orientation or training and this creates an
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inconsistency in the production and quality parameters. Upskilling and recognition of prior learning is the need of the hour for the Surat powerloom industry, which employs four lakh workers directly. The skilling programmes would be implemented through textile industry to meet trained manpower requirement. The new skill development center will help the industry to adopt scientific principles for upgrading skills of employees and achieve higher productivity. It would also facilitate to cut cost and improve fabrics quality in textile manufacturing unit. Around 10 lakh people are expected to be skilled and certified in various segments of textile sector across the country.
Burden on traders as fabric job charges may increase upto 10% !!!
Thousands of textile traders in the city may have to pay more for fabric’s dyeing and printing job. The textile processors are all set to hike the job cherges upto 10% in near days. Now a days, traders are already full of anxiety with GST issues, enhanced packaging material cost and with further hike in fabric processing job charges upto
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MARKET REPORT 10 percent will result in an overall increase of around 15 percent in the finished fabric category. The textile mill sources said, the hike in job charges is inevitable due to the increase in the raw material costs. The prices of dyes-chemical, coal, lignite, and labour charges have increased by 15 to 20% in the last few days. Besides this, the Gas company recently has increased the prices of natural gas supplied to its industrial consumers. The hike in the fuel prices is likely to hit the dyes, chemicals and textile processors very hard in south Gujarat. Around 350 textile dyeing and printing mills are operating below of their capacity. Sources said, the overall operating cost in the mill is increased. Now, the processrs have no option but to increase the fabric job charges. The processors will meet shortly to study raw material, fuel price hike and accordingly increase the job charges. The job charges may raised by 5-10% in mid of January. On the other hand, the textile traders are not happy with any price hike in job charges. The traders association said, synthetic textile industry in Surat are yet to come out of the GST issues and the hike in fabric dyeing and printing job rates will further increases the burden. They won’t be able to pass on the price hike to the buyers. There is already 25 to 30 percent reduction in the daily turnover of MMF fabrics due to hike in the crude oil price which has resulted in increase of yarn prices making the unfinished
fabric costly. Surat’s power loom weavers manufacture 3 crore metre of fabrics per day, which have been reduced to 2 crore metre per day post-GST. The daily business turnover in the textile market has come down drasticaly.
Confusion of GST rate on unstitched fabrics over Rs.1000 The Goods and Service Tax (GST) rate issue has again created a confusive situation for textile traders. The textile traders dealing in unstiched fabrics were doing business by imposing 5% GST on lenghas, unstitched salwar kameez and dress material and maintaining record accordingly to file the returns till the date. Now they are worried as they will have to reverse the entries of their sale as tax consultants have clarified that GST on these fabrics priced above Rs 1,000 was 12% and not 5%. The GST Council, earlier had kept GST rate on unstitched fabrics at 5%. Now, the rate has been increased to 12% on products above Rs 1,000. Traders are in confusion as they have been charging 5% GST on such items. Sources said, there is no clarity from the GST commissionerate over 12% GST on unstitched fabric. It is going to be tough for many traders to correct the old bills.
ASSOCIATION NEWS
SIMA hails the Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector The Indian textiles & clothing industry being the second largest employment provider next only to agriculture required to train the workforce on a scientific basis and constantly upgrade the skills to remain globally competitive and also enable the employees to earn good remuneration. Against this background, the Ministry of Textiles had earlier launched the Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS) with a budget outlay of Rs.272 crores under 11th Plan and Rs.1900 crores in the 12th Plan. Under this Scheme, around 11 lakh people got benefited. The industry has been demanding to announce a special scheme not only for training the fresh workers, but also for upskilling and for the skill Upgradation of Supervisors, Executives, Managers and Entrepreneurs. Now the Government has announced a comprehensive Scheme for
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Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS) with a budget outlay of Rs.1300 crores for two years. Mr.P Nataraj, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has thanked the Hon’ble Prime Minister and Hon’ble Union Minister for Textiles for acceding to the appeal of the industry and announcing the SCBTS. He has said that the Indian textile industry has been lagging in productivity and counties like China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, etc., are much ahead in productivity. He has stated that the new scheme would enable the industry to adopt scientific principles for upgrading the skills of the employees and achieve higher productivity. He has said that the Scheme would also facilitate to cut cost and improve quality.
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December 2017
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
CLOTHING FROM MILK FIBRE Fibres like cotton Linen have ruled the world since the start of civilization. As we speak about innovation and technology China with its large scale production has invented new fibres like Milk and Soybean.Though in the 1940’ s the fibres were quite popular in America and Europe the market for it collapsed due to World War II. Now regenerated, these fibres are more efficient and durable than any other fibre invented before or existing today. Milk fibre was invented in 1930‘ s in Italy by Antonio Ferratti. It was manufactured from milk casein to compete with wool. Casein fibres have since being produced under various names in a number of countries, y Lanital in Belgium and France. y Fibrolane in Britain. y Merinova in Italy. y Wipolan in Poland. y Aralac in America Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of skimmed milk. The casein coagulates as a curd which is washed and dried, and then ground to fine powder. 35 litres of skimmed milk produce about 1 kg of casein. Today ‘ s milk fibre is environmentally friendly, superior in strength and has far better qualities than man –made fibres. Casein ( milk ) protein dates back many centuries when it was used as a binder for paints – paint with casein applied to 14 th and 15 th century churches still appears bright and unfaded. Proteins are obtained from skim milk,evaporated milk and condensed milk. There are about three pounds of casein in every 100 pounds of milk. Production of milk fibre ; Casein is obtained by the acid treatment of skimmed milk. The casein coagulates as a curd which is washed and dried, and then ground to a fine powder. 35 litres of skimmed milk produce about 1 kg of casein. Casein is dissolved in caustic soda solution. The solution is allowed to ripen until it reaches a suitable viscosity, and is then filtered and deaerated.The spinning solution is wet spun by extrusion through spinnerets into a coagulating bath containing sulphuric acid ( 2 parts ),formaldehyde( 5 parts ), glucose ( 20 parts )and water ( 100 parts).the jets of solution coagulate into filaments in a manner similar to the coagulation of viscose filaments. But the next process is very critical as the fibre has to be treated chemically to harden it. The process is commonly described as “ hardening “, in that it minimized the softening effects of water.Treatment with formaldehyde forms the basis of many hardening techniques. In the plant scale bunches of filaments are collected together into a tow as they leave the coagulating bath, and are then steeped in formaldehyde solution. the filaments are subjected to drawing at this stage. After treatment, the tow is washed and dried,
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crimped mechanically, and then cut into staple fibre. Otherwise the tow to top convertor makes tops for blending with wool. Following are the varieties available in market. staple fibre /tops fineness 1.56 dtex 1.56 dtex
length 38 mm 46 mm
2.22 dtex
76 mm
Milk fibre has passed oeko-tex standard 100 green certification for the international ecological textiles. The milk fibre contains eighteen amino-acids, which is beneficial to human’s health and has the functions of nourishing and taking care of skin.The wet spinning technology, a unique spinning solvent is used, micro-zinc ions are is embedded in the fibre, after drying and after treatment, zinc oxide is produced, therefore it is bacteriostatic and durable. Casein fibre is produced almost entirely as staple, tow or top. FLOW CHART OF MILK FIBRE PRODUCTION. Casein ------ mixing ( caustic soda and water )------- filtration -------deaeration ----- spinning ----- tow --------drawing ----- hardening ----- washing ----- drying ----- crimping ---cutter --------- baling. Milk fibre resembles wool in having a soft warm handle. The fibres are naturally crimped, and yarns have a characteristic warmth and fullness of handle. It provides good thermal insulation. They are resilient, like wool. Casein fibres cannot be distinguished from wool fibres by chemical or burning tests, only by microscope. because chemical composition is so similar, casein burns like wool with odour of burning hair, has no surface scales like wool but is smooth and round when viewed under a microscope, is damaged readily by alkalis and mildews easily. Properties of Milk fibre, Properties
Casein
Silk
Wool
Cotton
Tenacity gm/den Elongation, % Density,gm/cm3
1.1-0.9 60-70 1.30
1-1.5 25-45 1.34-1.38
1.5-2.0 25-40 1.33
2-5.5 6-10 1.50-1.54
Moisture regain,% Acid resistance
14 Good
11.0 excellent
14-16 excellent
9 Bad
Alkali resistance Resistance to moth/fungus
Bad Resistance to moth but ot to fungus
good Resistance to Fungus but not To moth
bad Resistance to fungus but not to moth
Excellent Resistance to moth but not to fungus
U.V resistance
bad
bad
bad
good
The filaments are smooth –surfaced. cross section is bean shaped. the natural colour is white. When wet, the fibres lose much of their strength ; tenacity falls to 0.6 to 0.3
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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE g/den. Milk fibre tends to absorb moisture readily, and the fibres become swollen and soft. they may become plastic and sticky as the temperature is raised. The fibres become brittle and yellow on prolonged heating at over 100 deg c. It burns slowly in air.flammability is similar to wool. The fibre base body does not have regular channels, which makes the milk fibre have as fine moisture absorption as natural fibre and better moisture conduction than synthetic fibres – milk fibre is both comfortable and permeable.fibres are white, fluffy, springy and have a pleasant odour. Even though casein fibre lacks certain desirable qualities of wool it was a way to replace wool at a lower cost. when mixed with viscose and wool,casein helped in the conservation effort during world war II as a wool substitute. Though caseins can be laundered with care the same as wool, they loose strength when wet and must be handled gently. they cannot be kept damp for any length of time due to quick mildewing. Today’ s milk fibre is environmentally friendly, superior in strength and has far better qualities than man-made fibres. Blending of milk fibre ; When blended with other fibres casein added a soft draping quality and resilllliency to fabrics. Fibre was blended with wool for creating felt and with spun rayon,wool,mohair and cotton for attractive woven and knitted fabrics in a variety of weaves, textures and prints. The popular blends were wool -94% and casein fibre -6 %., and viscose-50% and casein fibre – 50 %. Casein /cotton blends are popular for hosiery and carpets. A small amount of fibre is used for 100 % casein goods, but most casein fibre is blended with wool, cotton, rayon, nylon and other staple fibres. Blends containing casein may be spun on all the usual systems a) Cotton system – viscose/casein blends b) Woolen system. – casein/ wool or viscose blends. c) Worsted system. – casein /wool or viscose blends. d) Flax system. - casein/viscose blends. TYPE OF BLENDS 100% Milk yarn
COUNT 10-80 Ne
Milk fibre /cotton
10-80 Ne
Milk fibre /cotton/modal
10-80 Ne
Milk fibre /Tencel
10-80 Ne
Milk fibre /bamboo fibre
10-80 Ne
Milk fibre/cashmere/wool
16-80 Ne
Milk fibre/silk
16-80 Ne
Milk fibre/camel hair
16-80 Ne
Milk fibre/silk/cashmere
16-80 Ne
Milk fibre/silk/cashmere/tencel/cotton
16-80 Ne
1. Desizing -Enzyme products may be used, preferally at pH 4.0 to 6.0. If water soluble sizes have been used, desizing is not necessary. 2. Scouring -Synthetic detergents should be used, preferably under acid conditions, e.g pH 6.0. 3. Bleaching -Casein fibre is generally white, and bleaching is not usually necessary. If required, it should be carried out under weakly conditions,e.g pH 4.0 -6.0 as Casein fibres retain maximum strength and minimum swelling under these conditions. Hypochlorite bleaches should not be used. Bleaching may be carried out with Hydrogen Peroxide – 2 gpl at a pH of 8.0 using Sodium Pyrophosphate. It must be followed by careful washing and acidification with acetic acid. Normal optical bleaching agents may be applied. 4. Dyeing - Casein absorbs moisture readily and does not have a highly orientated structure. Dyes can penetrate into the fibre without difficulty. Casein can be dyed with dyestuffs used for wool. Acid, Basic, Direct and Disperse dyes are used where good washing –fastness is note a prime essential. Metal complex dyes give high wash fastness. pH of the dyeliquor should be between pH 4 & 6. Dyeing is usually carried out at 90-95 deg c. 5. Printing - Fabrics containing casein may be printed by block, screen,& roller. Acid, basic, direct, chrome, mordant, azoic, vat or pigment dyes may be used. 6. Finishing - Crease –resist finishes may be applied to blends containing casein fibre, using temperatures not higher than 160 deg c. for approximately 2.5 mins. Uses of Milk Protein fibre ; One of the earliest uses for casein fibre was in the making of felt for hats. Casein / wool blends are used for knitted berets. Casein/cotton or nylon blended fabrics are used for interlock outerwear, T shirts, cardigans, jumpers etc. casein blended with wool, cotton,viscose, nylon is used in Raschel cloths, coatings, blanket fabrics. Blends of casein and wool are made into pressed felts for use as floor coverings and used in conventional and tufted carpets. Pile carpets are made using casein -50% and wool or viscose -50%. Acknowledgement – The author is thankful to Mr S.K Khandelia,President, Chenab Textile Mills, Kathua ( J & K ) for giving permission to publish this article.
Chemical processing of Milk Protein Fibre ( Casein) ; Milk protein fibre has different physical and chemical construction from natural protein fibre, care is taken in the following steps ;
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Dr N.N.Mahapatra President
COLORANT LTD
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December 2017
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
Control Techniques for Noise Pollution in Textile Industry: An Overview Abstract: Textile manufacturing is one of the largest industrial process that uses water, many hazardous chemicals like formaldehyde, azo dyes chlorinated compounds and man power. However one of the major contributors to environmental pollution apart from air and water is noise.Noise is an unwanted sound that interfaces with the function in given time. Prolonged exposure to high noise causes psychological effects and physical damage includes loss in concentration which finally affects the job performance. Today the machinery manufactures are taking continuous efforts to reduce the noise level but the measures are not adequate to protect the textile workers from noise related diseases. This paper enlightens the facts about the noise pollution due to textile machines, its accessories in preventive measures and controlling the same. Keywords: Noise Pollution, Noise and Machine Behavior , Introduction to Textile Industry: Textile industry is a significant contributor to many national economies, encompassing both small and largescale operations worldwide. Though the textile industry is one of the largest industries, its manufacturing process is characterized by high consumption of resources like water, fuel and a variety of chemicals in a long process sequence that generates a significant amount of waste. The system/procedure of low process efficiency results in substantial wastage of resources and a severe damage to the environment. The main environmental problems associated with textile industry are typically those associated with water body pollution caused by the discharge of untreated effluents. Other environmental issues of equal importance are air emission, notably Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) and excessive noise as well as workspace safety[1]. In recent years, even developing country like India has taken positive steps against the noise pollution; Noise pollution has been accepted as major threat to human beings. Much discussion and legislation have been evolved in an attempt to recognize and combat the problem of noise pollution. It has been recognized that noise of sufficient intensity can damage hearing. The problem of noise pollution can be combated when there are means of measuring noise level and systems of classification. Textile and pollution: The textile process deals with production of fiber, yarn and fabric followed by pre and post chemical, mechanical process. Each process causes some environmental issues that can be listed as follows,
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1) Air pollution( Dust ) 2) Water pollution 3) Solid waste pollution 4) Noise pollution 1) Air pollution: Most processes performed in textile mills produce atmospheric emissions. Gaseous emissions have been identified as the second greatest pollution problem (after effluent quality) for the textile industry. Speculation concerning the amount and type of air pollutants emitted from textile operations has been widespread but, air emission data for textile manufacturing operations are not readily available. Air pollution is the most difficult type of pollution to sample test and quantify in an audit. Air emissions can be classified according to the nature of their sources. Textile mills usually generate nitrogen and sulphur oxides from boilers. Other significant sources of air emissions in textile operations include, fabric preparation,dyeing,resin finishing, printing wastewater treatment plants. Apart from this in spinning mill, the process of removing trash from cotton fibers by opening and beating process results in liberation of fiber fluff in the surrounding environment. The amount of fiber fluff liberated varies from section to section, being highest in blow room and minimum at the cone winding section. The exposure of workers to such working environment conditions containing fiber particles and dust poses a severe health risk which is shown in the Fig.No 1. Generally, air suction system exists nearly in all departments to maintain certain humidity and remove air contaminants. At some places it works effectively but in certain areas air exchange is not proper resulting in suffocation and inconvenience to the workers. In weaving mill, fibrous particles present in the working environment are not much. The small fibrous particles generated during weaving activities disperse in occupational air [3] the fluff liberation in the departments with modern textile machines which is shown in the Table No.1, has drastically reduced with most of the machines having major sections fully enclosed. Table 1: Concentration limits of dust in air stream Process
Limit (mg/m3)
Blow room to Speed frame 0.50 Spinning (Ring Frame)
0.20
Twisting
0.20
Winding
0.20
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE Warping
0.20
3) Solid waste pollution:
Sizing
0.75
Weaving
0.75
Nonwoven
0.50
The primary residual wastes generated from the textile industry are non-hazardous. These include scraps of fabric and yarn, off-specification yarn and fabric and packaging waste. There are also wastes associated with the storage and production of yarns and textiles, such as chemical storage drums, cardboard reels for storing fabric and cones used to hold yarns for dyeing and knitting. Cutting room waste generates a high volume of fabric scraps, which can often be reduced by increasing fabric utilization efficiency in cutting and sewing. 4 Noise pollution and machine:
Fig.1: Problems of fluff liberation in spinning and weaving sheds
2) Water pollution: The textile industry uses high volumes of water throughout its operations, from washing of fibers to bleaching, dyeing and washing of finished products. On an average, approximately 200 liters of water is required to produce l kg of textiles. from Fig No. 3 and it is seen that the large volume of waste water generated contains a wide variety of chemicals used throughout processing. This polluted water can cause severe damage if it is not treated properly before being discharged into the environment. All the stages involved in textile manufacturing, wet processing creates the highest volume of waste water.
Noise is the environmental pollutant generated by any industry and spinning and weaving industries has no exception to this. The workers exposed to industrial noise of potentially damaging quality and intensity, suffer from impairment of hearing capacity of several degrees and other physiological disorders which is shown in the Fig No. 4 and 5 Prolonged exposure to a noise level of > 90 dB may cause hearing disorders since maximum permissible noise level for 8 hour exposure should be around 96.5 dB [5] As we know the term noise is the unpleasant sound with varying intensity. The machines are the main cause for this particular reason, and cannot be under direct control because we cannot keep machine as it is as it generate the noise and secondly lot of cost is involved on the machines is very high. Impact of noise pollution on human beings
The aquatic toxicity of textile industry waste water varies considerably among production facilities. The sources of aquatic toxicity can include salt, surfactants, ionic metals and their metal complexes, toxic organic chemicals, biocides and toxic anions. Most textile dyes have low aquatic toxicity; on the other hand surfactants and related compounds, such as detergents, emulsifiers and dispersants are used in most of each textile process and can be an important contributor to effluent aquatic toxicity, BOD and foaming. Fig 4: Psychological Disorders
Fig 5: Hearing Problem
Machine behavior and noise generation: Any machine while in running is prone to develop the noise and textile machines have no exception for the same. When we talk about the noise with respect to machine it is the vibration generated due to two or more solid surface interface. The vibrating members alternately push and pull against air creating noise, off course there are many reasons for generation of noise and can be summarized as follow, 1) Machine footing and its foundation. Fig 2: Coloured Effluent from dyeing process Fig 3: Effluent Discharge
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2) Type of mechanism adopted while designing the machine (no. of mechanical components presented and linkage mechanism)
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE 3) Working speed of machine. 4) Maintenance of machine. 5) Design of other machine parts like blowers, ducts and pipes etc. 6) Material handling system. Overview of noise levels in Different departments: 1) Spinning: Because of high spindle speeds reached on new machines (ring spindles up to 20000 rpm, rotor speed up to 11000 rpm) spinning mills can generally be assumed to generate a great noise. Noise levels of 70 to 100 dB are commonly recorded in workrooms. 2) Weaving and knitting: Although considerable progress has been made in the weaving sector over the last 20 year, the whole area of noise nuisance and, closely associated with it, vibration coming from looms, cause major problems. Noise levels of 100 to 120 dB must be expected in weaving rooms, according to the design, type of loom. Fitting and erection and number looms used, fabric structure etc. The following table shows the noise levels in various departments. Table 2: Noise level in textile industry (Texturing, spinning and Weaving) Process
Noise level (dB)
Texturizing Plant
95-100
Spinning 1.Ring Frame
80
2.Rotor spinning
84
3.Two for one twister
100-110
4.Weaving
100-120
Today’s machine scenario against conventional one with respect to noise generation: All modern machines are far differing than conventional one with respect to noise generation. The conventional practice of designing of machines was based on pure mechanical concepts rather than combination of mechanical and electronics, since the development in the electronics industries was not up to the level that today it is. Today we are talking about the automated machines purely based on mechatronics concept and it offers following advantage. 1) Reduction in the mechanical parts and accessories with electronic base mechanisms.
ing machines offers efficient control on various parameters like yarn, fabric tension on spinning and weaving machines, speed control devices, Building mechanism on speed frame and ring frame as it was traditionally based on cam and linkage mechanism etc. Shows pronounced impact on noise reduction. The development in material handling system also offers positive contribution towards noise reduction this is especially while handling of plastic cops during doffing operation similarly beams handling system in weaving unit with monorail arrangement [6]. The handling of spare parts also shows some good correlation with noise level which involves proper storage of parts like boxes and bines etc. The following points show some features of modern machine. Sturdy design of machines Use of minimum number of linkages More focus on mechatronics which relates to minimum number of metallic parts Proper design of Jig & fixer shows reduction in vibration up to 20 dB Use of proper bearings and centralized lubrication system reduces friction Improved metallurgy of metallic parts in other words use of light weight parts Provision of suction systems at various points results in dust reduction by 30-35% Enclosed machine parts minimizes accidental cases by 50% Machines are equipped with safety panels and sensors to sense the abnormalities Design aspects to control the noise: Behavior of sound: When designing engineering control to reduce the noise exposure it is important to have basic understanding of sound and its impact. Sound is always produced by change in the speed or force. Basic principle of sound includes, 1) More noise is produced when great force is used for longer time than small force with shorter time. 2) Airborne sound is caused by vibration of solid parts or turbulence in case of fluid. 3) Vibration can produce sound after traveling a great distance. 4) High frequency sound is more reflective.
2) High and efficient accuracy
5) Low frequency noise is travels through object and through opening.
3) Offers flexibility in the working.
6) Audible range of human ear is up to 80-90 dB.[7]
4)Ease of maintenance.
Design and planning: first step in effective noise control is design and purchase in noise control in mind. Take noise control in account when designing new facilities renovating existing buildings. Isolate noisy operations in design
5) Low mechanical complicity. Also introduction of hydraulics, pneumatics with solenoid valves and PLC operating system on spinning on weav-
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE ing rooms where fewer employees will be impacted. Use qualified engineers and architectures to design the work place and it becomes easier to control techniques before machine installation and other aspects. Before buying anything ask to the manufacture about the noise and other technical parameters related to noise generation. Administrative control: It involves training to the workers staff about the noise and its consequences also job rotation technique to high level noise area and low level noise area in order to keep overall noise level constant, since this control technique is not efficient as there is lacuna in technological aspects to reduce the noise. Simple engineering control: These controls should be evaluated before exploring more complex solution and this technique involves following aspects, 1) Proper maintenance. 2) Changing operating procedures 3) Replacing operating procedures 4) Applying room treatments 5) Relocating equipment’s 6) Simple machine treatments 7)Using proper machine speed[8] 1) Proper maintenance: It is observed that malfunctioning or improperly maintained parts produces more noise that well maintained one like, a. Loosely held bearings and belts. b. Torn belts c. Worn gears d. Imbalanced rotating masses e. Missing guards or shields f. Improperly adjusted cams and linkages It is recommended that a good preventive maintenance practice should be adopted to reduce the noise level and also follow scheduled check list for lubrication to reduce the wear and tear of parts and maintain the same. 2) Operating procedures and equipment replacement technique: This technique is totally in the hand of administration where provision of job rotation and purchasing of new equipment’s or tools is the main priority. 3) Room treatments: One of the basic principles of noise control is to reduce the reflecting sound, for that use of absorbent materials in between the departments, modify the plant construction according to the acoustic principle and engineering approach.
tions in the machine show significant reduction in the noise level. a. Reduce the dropping height of parts from bins and storage tanks b. Enclose the bin and boxes with rubber base material to absorb the noise c. Keep optimum pressure when working with pneumatics and hydraulics 6) Proper operating speed: As we know any increase in speed will prone to develop more noise so run the machines with manufacturer recommendation. a) Enclosures: These are like boxes covered with sound and heat absorbable coatings simple used to control the machines parts which are moveable especially in case of motor panels where both heat and noise generation are the key parameters to be performed. b) Shields and barriers: These are sound absorbable materials which are used to control high frequency noise they should be placed near to the high frequency source and they should be as thick as possible. c) Ducts and pipes: vibrating duct is the common cause of noise. The source of noise is the fan and is depend on 1) Proper fan size and type 2) Speed of the fan Generally the backward curved fan produces low level of noise than forward curve due to the low air turbulence also some other considerations are required to be taken like acoustic linings in the ducts to observe the sound, pressure balance in ducts to maintain the steady conditions during martial transportation. Conclusion: Reduction in the noise is important and above all a demanding task. Today the machine manufactures have attempted serval techniques to keep the noise emission as low as possible but, what would have been achieved in lowering down the noise level has been cancelled out by the continuous increase in the speed. We must practice sophisticated engineering and quantitative management techniques like Total Productive Maintenance to control noise and other pollutions with respect to machines and material handling practices. References:
4) Relocation of equipment: Noise level drops off when the distance from the noise source is increase.
1. Chavan R.B, Indian textile industry –Environmental issues, Indian Journal of fiber and textile research, Vol.26 March-June 2001, pp. 11-21.
a. Noisy equipment should be as far as possible from employees.
2. Lal R.A, NCUTE Extension Programs on Environmental Problems in chemical Processing of Textiles, KCT, Coimbatore. 2005 Das Subrta and GhoshAnlndya, Some Ecological Hazards inTextile Industry, International Conference on Emerging Trends In Polymers and Textiles, January 2005.
b. Do not put noisy parts at corner to avoid noise reflection. 5) Simple machine treatments: Many simple modifica-
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3. Slater Keith, Textiles and the environment, Handbook of Technical textiles, School of engineering, University of Guelph Canada,
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE pp. 530-542 4. Kane.C.D, Environmental and health hazards in spinning industry and their control, Indian Journal of fiber and textile research, Vol.26 March-June 2001, pp.39-43. 5. Talukdar.M.K“Noise Pollution and its control in textile industry” Indian Journal of fiber and textile research, vol.no-26, MarchJune,pp.44-49
6. ShastreeN.K, Environmental Resource Management, Noise Pollution Standard’s and control, Anmol Publications Pvt .Ltd, pp.170-182.
Dr. V.D Gotmare Associate Professor & Head, extile Manufactures Department, V. J. T. I., Mumbai
EVENT REPORT Texprocil Celebrates The Achievement Of Its Member Exporters At The Annual Awards Presentation The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council popularly known as TEXPROCIL celebrated the achievement of its member exporters at a glittering Awards function The Hon’ble Minister of Textiles and Information & Broadcasting, Smt Smriti Zubin Irani was unable to come to the event but in a gracious video message to the industry she complimented the award winners to keep up the good work in the sector. In the Minister’s absence, the Textiles Commissioner, Dr Kavita Gupta graciously accepted to be the Chief Guest at the function. The event was inaugurated with lighting of traditional lamp by Dr. Kavita Gupta Textiles Commissioner along with the Chairman of Texprocil Shri Ujwal Lahoti and the Vice Chairman, Dr. K V Srinivasan. Shri Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman, Texprocil in his opening remarks congratulated all the award winners for facing the challenges of a slow global demand and intense price pressures to emerge leaders in their respective line of businesses during the year 2016-17. In his speech, the Chairman complimented the Hon’ble Minister of Textiles and Information & Broadcasting, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani for her untiring efforts in conducting extensive consultations with all the stake holders from time to time to understand the issues faced by the textiles industry. He said that she was instrumental in the inclusion of Made ups under the ROSL Scheme which was originally introduced to cover only Readymade Garments and also thanked her for keeping the entire cotton textiles sector at the GST rate of 5% and for reducing the GST rate on job work in the textile sector to 5%. Shri Lahoti mentioned that the Government recently increased the ROSL rate for cotton Made ups from 1.55% to 2.20% and also the entitlement of the duty credit scrips on export of Made ups from 2% to 4% under the MEIS. These measures will enable Made ups exporters to partially overcome the disadvantage which they are facing in leading markets like the EU and the US as compared to products from some of the competing nations which enjoy zero duty access, he added. He also said that the GST will certainly lead to growth of the textile sector in the days to come by improving the
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competitiveness of the textiles sector by bringing down costs which is the primary objective of this landmark indirect taxation regime. However he added that delays in GST refunds are leading to serious working capital and financial problems for many of the textiles units in addition to the procedural & compliance issues faced by them. Shri Lahoti stated that Cotton Yarn was one single product for which there were no benefits under the Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20. He urged the government to include Cotton yarn under the MEIS and 3% Interest Equalization Scheme. He said that it will give the necessary boost to the Cotton spinning sector and ensure its survival and sustenance. Concluding his speech, the Chairman also urged the government to get fabrics included under the ROSL scheme and also to increase the MEIS from 2% to 4% rate at par with Made ups as the weaving sector is labour intensive and can create additional employment opportunities. In her address to the textile industry, the Chief Guest at the function Dr Kavita Gupta lauded the efforts and performance of the exporters as well as the winners of the prestigious Texprocil Awards. She encouraged the industry to align their growth with
Dr. Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director – TEXPROCIL, Shri Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman –TEXPROCIL, Dr. Kavita GuptaDr K V Srinivasan, Vice Chairman – TEXPROCIL
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EVENT REPORT more innovation as it was the key to increase exports. She stressed the fact that the industry should focus on technical textiles as it still remained a vastly unexplored segment in the textile sector. She added that the government’s support through various schemes like the recent increase in MEIS should spur the industry to spiral towards healthy growth. Dr Gupta also mentioned that India should occupy the relative space that is being vacated by China as that is one opportunity that India should not let go. She mentioned that along with exports the industry should also look at
signing MoUs with intra segments like the signing of MoU between PDEXCIL and CMAI in the Textiles India Show held at Gandhinagar in July 2017, where fabrics from the power loom sector will be used for making garments by the CMAI members. She concluded by saying that the government is always there to back and support the industry but it finally depends on each company within the industry to grow by supporting each other thereby scaling greater heights in the exports sector.
GOVT NEWS
Cabinet approves “Scheme
for Capacity Building in Textiles Sector (SCBTS)
The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs, chaired by the Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi has given its approval for a new skill development scheme covering the entire value chain of the textile sector excluding Spinning & Weaving in organized Sector, titled “Scheme for Capacity Building in Textile Sector (SCBTS)” from 2017-18 to 2019-20 with an outlay of Rs. 1300 crore. The scheme will have National Skill Qualification Framework (NSQF) compliant training courses with funding norms as per the Common Norms notified by Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship (MSDE). The objectives of the scheme are to provide demand driven, placement oriented skilling programme to incentivize the efforts of the industry in creating jobs in the organized textile and related sectors; to promote skilling and skill up-gradation in the traditional sectors through respective Sectoral Divisions/organizations of Ministry of Textiles; and to provide livelihood to all sections of the society across the country. The skilling programmes would be implemented through: i. Textile Industry /Units in order to meet the in-house requirement of manpower; ii. Reputed training institutions relevant to textile sector having placement tie-ups with textile industry/ units; and iii.Institutions of Ministry of Textiles /State Governments having placement tie-ups with textile industry/units. The scheme will broadly adopt the following strategy: (a) Job role wise skilling targets will be based on skill gap identified for various levels i.e. Entry level courses, Up-skilling/ Re-skilling (supervisor, managerial training, advanced courses for adapting technology etc.), Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL), Training of Trainers, Entrepreneurship Development. (b) Segment Wise/ Job role wise requirement of skill needs will be assessed from time to time in consultation with the industry.
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(c) Web-based monitoring will be adopted for steering every aspect of implementation of the programme. (d) Skilling requirement in the traditional sectors such as handlooms, handicrafts, jute, silk etc. will be considered as special projects through respective Sectoral Divisions/ organizations. Skill upgradation will be supported further for entrepreneurial development through provision of MUDRA loans. (e) With a view to make outcomes measurable, successful trainees will be assessed and certified by an accredited Assessment Agency. (f) Atleast 70% of the certified trainees are to be placed in the wage employment. Post Placement tracking will be mandatory under the scheme. (g) Acknowledging the high levels of employment of women in the sector post training, all partner institutions will be required to comply with the guidelines regarding Internal Complaints Committee to be constituted under the Sexual Harassment of Women at Workplace (Prevention, Prohibition & Redressal) Act, 2013 to become eligible for funding under the scheme. The scheme will be implemented for the benefit of all sections of the society across the country including rural, remote, LWE affected, North East, J&K by imparting skills in the identified job roles. Preference will be given to various social groups, SC, ST, differently abled, minorities and other vulnerable groups. Under previous scheme of skill development implemented by the Ministry of Textiles in the XII Plan period, more than 10 lakh people have been trained of which more than 70% were women. Considering that the apparel industry, a major segment to be covered under the scheme, employs majorly women (about 70%), the trend is likely to be continued in the new scheme. 10 lakh people are expected to be skilled and certified in various segments of Textile Sector through the scheme, out of which 1 lakh will be in traditional sectors.
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BRAND UPDATE
Abhishek Tibrewal wins Liva Protégé 2017 and a cash prize of Rs. 2 Lacs y 1st Runner up is Sonika Pulluru and Dibyani Mishra is the 2nd runners up y Third edition of Liva Protégé, a Unique Talent Hunt competition for India’s Young Amateur Designer y Liva Protégé ties up exclusively with Amazon Fashion, launches 2017 winners on The Designer Boutique at Amazon.in
Liva Protégé is a unique talent hunt competition which gives young fashion designers an opportunity to showcase their talent. The talent hunt attracts entries from numerous fashion design institutes from India. The participants are shortlisted based in their designing capabilities before getting assigned to a mentor. This year, the scope of the competition got bigger as the Liva Protégé 2017 winners will launch their collections exclusively on The Designer Boutique at Amazon.in and enjoy an easy access to millions of nationwide customers. The third edition of Liva Protégé received over 3,000 applications from across 190 institutes. Mr. Dilip Gaur, Business Director, Pulp and Fiber Business, Aditya Birla Group and Managing Director Grasim Industries said, In line with the Aditya Birla Group’s philosophy of nurturing and promoting young talent, we embarked on the Liva Protégé initiative. The vision was to have young designers sculpt their designs in manifold ways for Liva and also provide them a launch platform for their future enterprise. I believe that designers bring creative thoughts into action, which is a key differentiator in the Textile value chain and therefore critical to success of the Indian industry on global platform” Over 190 institutes participated in the 3rd edition of Liva Protégé Talent Hunt which had entries from across 50 cities with over 3000 students applying for the competition. In addition to the major metros, this year the hunt had participation from tier II cities like Ambala, Ludhiana, Kanpur amongst others. There were two rounds of short-listing the candidates. The students were divided in 6 zones and were allotted an ace designer as a mentor. Nida Mahmood for Delhi, Pallavi Singhee for Kolkata, Anand Kabra for Hyderabad, Anshu Arora Sen for Bengaluru, Priyadarshini Rao for Mumbai & Purvi Doshi for Ahmedabad nurtured these finalists for the grand finale.
Miss India International 2007 Esha Gupta, sustainability and social change advocate Parveen Dusanj and Narendra Kumar Ahmed (Nari), Creative Head Amazon Fashion. The top finalists, this edition, were from IINIFD Pune, NIFT Mumbai, Pearl, GIFT Kolkata, WLCI College Kolkata, INIFD Chennai, Hamstech, Hyderabad & NID, Gandhinagar. At a glittering ceremony held in Mumbai today Abhishek Tibrewal from Pearl Academy, New Delhi won the prestigious Liva Protégé 2017, Sonika Pulluru from Hamstech Hyderabad and Dibyani Mishra from GIFT Kolkata were the 1st and 2nd runners respectively. Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Chief Marketing Office, Pulp and Fiber Business, Aditya Birla Group, “The third edition of Liva Protégé has had a record participation and has grown to become a much sought out competition in the short duration with fashion institutes and students.” He informed, “This year’s highlight is our exclusive association with Amazon Fashion that will enable these designers to launch their winning Liva Protégé collections on Amazon. in, thereby giving them a unique opportunity to build and market their brands”. Commenting on the tie-up with Live Protégé, Arun Sirdeshmukh, Business – Head, Amazon Fashion said, “We remain strongly invested in creating the right infrastructure to help create position and highlight designers/brands to Indian customers. By giving this exposure to the Liva Protégé 2017 winners, Amazon will not only allow them accelerate their career growth but also give them an opportunity to focus on their inherent talent and build national brands. As part of The Designer Boutique at Amazon.in, we want to identify young designers and give them an opportunity to reach millions of our customers, and in turn help us democratize designer wear and make the segment more affordable in India”.
Selection process: LIVA Protégé is a platform where aspirants have been chosen on designing capabilities. There have had multiple rounds of selection across three months long intensive program (inclusive of one on one presentations to mentors, and then selection to be based on aesthetics, design, fluidity and functionality of creations) post which the aspirants got a chance to brush up on their skills and be mentored by some of the biggest names in the fashion industry. The young designers had showcased 5 evening ensembles designed by them at the finals who were judged by the eminent jury comprising of Bollywood’s fashionista and
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BRAND UPDATE
Beaulieu Yarns awarded prestigious FM Global “Highly Protected Risk” (HPR) status for French production site y HPR is the highest status a plant can achieve for fire risk prevention and protection y The site Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second in the Beaulieu International Group to reach HPR status y Underlines Group’s commitment to risk prevention at B.I.G. sites & to reinforcing our strong business contingency plan Beaulieu Yarns, the global supplier of high-quality polyamide and polypropylene yarns, is pleased to announce the achievement of Highly Protected Risk (HPR) status for its French production site, Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines. Awarded by FM Global, HPR designation means a facility meets the highest industry standards for property protection. FM Global, Beaulieu International Group’s (B.I.G.) industrial property and business interruption insurer for the past two years, offers a unique concept that supports the Group in reducing its exposure to loss and increases its business resilience. A dedicated worldwide team of engineers focuses on providing assistance and protection of its assets, helping the Group to achieve a higher level of risk protection. The Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines site produces high quality yarns for a large variety of application and market segments includingthe automotive industry. It scored exceptionally well in its FM Global assessment which focused on aspects including fire protection, protection against natural hazard, mechanical breakdown of machinery and also cyber risks. Its overall risk mark of 76 ranks it within the top 25% of its industry for fire risk prevention and protection.
The divisions of B.I.G. are also implementing a number of safety programmes to raise awareness of workplace safety and to maintain strong safety records. Karena Cancilleri, Vice President BU Beaulieu Engineered Products, commented: “I am proud of Beaulieu Yarns for achieving the highly-regarded FM Global HPR Award and setting an example for the whole Beaulieu International Group. This positive step reflects the strong commitment of the Engineered Products division and the rest of the Group to improving safety and protecting our workplaces and our production facilities.” Beaulieu Yarns received the HPR Award at a ceremony on November 7, 2017 attended by all staff, and representatives of B.I.G. Management, Beaulieu Yarns Management and FM Global Management.
Representatives of FM Global Management and Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Project Team at the Award ceremony on November 7, 2017.
Commenting on the Award, Emmanuel Colchen, Global Sales Director Yarns within BU Beaulieu Engineered Products, said: “This HPR yarn production site reinforces strongly our supply chain security and demonstrates our engagement towards our customers and partners. Our contingency planning and risk management are essential, well-considered elements within our long-term business strategy to demanding sectors such as Automotive and Commercial & Residential floor covering contracts.” Ideal Fibres & Fabrics Comines is the second facility in the Group to attain HPR status, and the very first in Europe. Pinnacle Polymers LLC in the USA also achieved the HPR as a chemical plant, which is a rare achievement within the chemical business. Fire risk prevention is part of the Group’s broader risk management activities. B.I.G. is investing in increasing the level of protection at all B.I.G. plants in order to protect its business continuity.
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Erwin De Deyn, Chief Legal Officer and Vice President at Beaulieu International Group, accepting the Award on behalf of Beaulieu Yarns
Beaulieu Yarns received the Highly Protected Risk (HPR) Award at a ceremony on November 7, 2017 attended by all staff, and representatives of B.I.G. Management, Beaulieu Yarns Management and FM Global Management.
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December 2017
BRAND UPDATE
BIBA Apparels; journey from Hobby to MBO’s... BIBA Apparels Private Limited better known as BIBA is a brand that brings fashion closer to every corner of the society at affordable rates. BIBA is more of a people’s brand and has over time gained extreme prominence and love from the women, who adorn and look fashionable in BIBA. The brand has been dressing and embellishing women modestly and stylishly, from every corner of India since 1986. In 1983 Meena Bindra chose to rejoice the spirit of ‘Biba’, the Punjabi endearment for pretty women, by designing clothes from her house in Mumbai. She had a modest start, what began as designing clothes for some pocket money, slowly began to grow and gain popularity. She had never dreamt of becoming a businesswoman and that too someone who would someday lead a company from the front. As a 39-year-old housewife and mother of two, she turned her boredom into creative venture and made it to real business with an initial investment of just Rs.8,000 taken as loan from the bank 33 years ago. She pioneered the salwar-kurta revolution in the country and united the women from the North to the South changing their dressing styles. The ‘Punjabi suit’, as it used to be called, became an important part of every woman’s wardrobe. From Patiala salwars to Haryanvi kurta with pockets, Hyderabadi pyjamas, which are today’s palazzo pants; the Bhopali kurtas with pleats in the front, the Peshwa costumes with stitched yoke in the centre and cuffed sleeves; the battis kali (32 pleats) on mulmul for summers are all designs Meena introduced women to from the start. Meena has been creating beauty with her fabric, prints and designs. “ She started at a time when readymade churidar-kurtas were unheard of and sourcing of the fabric was not easy. There were no malls, and brands, and surely no fixed styles and rules. Her original creations gave her the firstmover advantage. What began with designing and selling to family and friends, slowly took over the shape of something big and commercial in no time.
that every good brand has a motivating story behind it. BIBA is one such story. BIBA was launched as a brand in 1988 and from wholesaling the brand to traditional retailers; it launched its first exclusive store at Inorbit Mall in Mumbai in the early nineties. Today, BIBA has a presence across 76 Indian cities with 192 exclusive brand outlets and over 250 multibrand outlets. BIBA was one of the first few brands to use the shop-in-shop model with Shoppers Stop, LifeStyle and Pantaloons. The annual turnover of Biba Apparels is estimated at Rs.600 crores today. BIBA pioneered Bollywood merchandising in India in 2004 with Na Tum Jano Na Hum and also provided costumes for blockbusters including Devdas, Hulchul, Baghban. In 2002, it replicated designer costumes from four movies Taal, Yaadein, Pardes and Badhai Ho Badhai to tap the movie memorabilia market.In Salman Khan’s latest movie, Bajrangi Bhaijan, Kareena Kapoor is seen wearing BIBA outfits. BIBA won the Best Women’s Ethnic Wear Brand of the Year at the CMAI Apex Awards in 2015. In 2012 it also won the Images Award for Most Admired Women’s Indian wear Brand of the Year. BIBA today boasts of a pan-india presence and caters to women in all age groups, who have a different nose and liking for Ethnic wear. Time and again BIBA has also gone for tie-ups and have come out with designer collections in collaboration with stalwarts in the trade like Manish Arora, Rohit Bal etc. Decent pricing, widespread presence and availability in online stores makes BIBA an accessible brand. But even though they reach out every woman, they do not shift away from their brand philosophy of making fashion affordable. And this is how they win hearts!
Being Delhi-bred, she could make and sell an outfit she knew thoroughly. The success of the first sale led to the next and there was no looking back. Traditional crafts like hand block printing with vegetable dyes and exquisite embroideries seperates and puts BIBA ahead of the league. Each garment is a work of art. BIBA is a story that needs to be told and much as the saying goes
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BRAND UPDATE
Evolution of a unique invention for textile quality One of the pioneers of USTER®STATISTICS tells the story of origins and development This year USTER®STATISTICS celebrates its 60th anniversary – so it is fitting to review the origins of this world-renowned textile bench marking tool. And what better way than to hear the stor y first hand from someone who was closely involved right from the start? PeterHättenschwiler,who devoted his entire working life to USTER,reveals the facts behind the remarkable success of a concept which was never actually intended to become quite so ‘famous’. Peter Hättenschwiler celebrated his 90th birthday on September 26. He was born in St. Gallen (Switzerland), a city dubbed the ‘lace capital’. Demand for lace and embroidery fluctuated during the 20th Century, but the industry was badly hit by the after-effects of the First World War and then by global economic crisis of the late 1920s. Fashion trends were also turning away from the decorative look at this time. Hättenschwiler’s father was among many who lost their jobs in the downturn, and the family moved to Wald, in the Zurich highlands, where companies in other textile sectors were still prospering. Even so, university was still not an option for Hättenschwiler. Instead, he started work as an apprentice in the precision engineering department of Zellweger Uster, a well-established and sizeable company which had a good reputation as a breeding ground for mechanics. Located in the nearby city of Uster, the company was then producing a range of textile machines for domestic and export markets. World War Two saw the collapse of the export business, and Zellweger Uster began to diversify into other product areas, including coffee refiners, electric cheese grinders and radio equipment. The step forward into new technology in the emerging field of electronics was a logical advance from the radio expertise, boosted by the availability of a new generation of well-educated engineers as businesses shifted their focus from wartime defense-oriented activities. Zellweger took advantage of the trend by growing as a technology enterprise, with an extensive portfolio of product inventions and patents. Cornerstone of USTER®STATISTICS
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One such innovation began when Hans Locher – a young radio operator officer and engineer with experience in wireless signaling – was inspired by the idea of developing a machine to measure yarn evenness. Peter Hättenschwiler was his assistant at Zellweger. Local spinners provided the impetus, with their request to have measurable data on the evenness of their yarns – and on those of their competitors. They saw this as an aid to accurate pricing, improved quality and forecasting the ‘weavability’ of material made from their yarns. The first evenness tester was based on a radio field, with a sender and a receiver. The yarn was passed through this field, and any defect would cause a disturbance in transmission. This enabled thick and thin places in yarns to be measured by an electronic signal and illustrated by a line showing deflections. This ability to visualize yarn evenness was a big success, but the next step was even more important: to describe yarn evenness objectively in figures. For this, Zellweger applied the principles of the planimeter, used by architects to calculate floorplan dimensions, to work out the space between deflection lines. This was the foundation for the original USTER®STANDARDS, published in 1957. Values and benchmarks Hans Locher collected a large number of textile samples, from Switzerland and from abroad. Along with Hättenschwiler and a lab assistant, he measured these in the textile laboratory and developed quality standards. These standards have since become recognized by official national and international organizations for standardization. “Hans Locher received a doctorate of technical scienceshonoraris causa from the ETH Zurich for this work, as well as for other achievements. With these standards it was possible to determine the quality of a textile crosssection on a global scale for the first time,” recalls Hättenschwiler. The textile industry was impressed when the first of these reference values were published over three pages of the Melliand textile magazine 60 years ago, and soon began to ask for more like silk and bast fibers. The extended standards were given the name USTER®STATISTICS. Over the years, the demand for yarn reference values increased with every new kind of yarn being developed, with the growth of man-made fiber types such as polyamid and viscose becoming very popular. Zellweger Uster continued to collect yarn quality values worldwide and the mass of data available was continuously increasing. “Of course a lot of manpower was needed to elaborate the USTER®STATISTICS, but the spinners and also the
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BRAND UPDATE machine manufacturers appreciated the free reference values,” says Hättenschwiler. The sheer volume of data for comparing yarn quality parameters was becoming quite difficult to handle but this also presented a new opportunity. USTER®STATISTICS was transformed into a bench marking tool. This innovation meant that the values were not actually listed but were instead bundled in standard categories of 5%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 95%. These were known as the USTER®STATISTICS Percentile figures,used to rate a particular parameter based on comparisonsof quality levelsfor each yarn type and blend being produced by mills
globally. The USTER®STATISTICS are an undoubtedly a wonderful ‘invention’ – even though they were not actually invented as such. In fact they evolved as vital bench mark values out of an urgent need by the industry to compare yarn quality. That process of evolution in response to industry requirements might well be the secret of their success during the past six decades. “We were proud of the Statistics because it was genius as well as helpful at that time. That’s all. We were much too modest to believe that what we made could have a big impact on the company’s reputation as a technological leader,” says Hättenschwiler.
NEWS
22nd AEPC Export Awards 2016-17 presentation ceremony The Union Minister for Textiles and Information & Broadcasting, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani said that the Ministry of Textiles is implementing a Knowledge Network Management System (KNMS) to facilitate exchange of knowledge amongst academia, farming community and the industry on the productivity of natural fibres and diversification of their bye-products. This is one of the follow-up actions taken by the Government, to carry forward the success of the mega textiles trade event, Textiles India 2017. The Textiles Minister said that focussed attention is being given to improve market access of Indian exporters, and that the Government is looking at solutions for all parts of the sector. Smt. Irani said that huge focus is being laid on up-skilling of various people involved in the textiles sector. She added that the Ministry is working on a policy measure that would be a shot in the arm for the silk and jute sectors. The Minister also extended her heartiest congratulations to the winners of the awards. The Commerce and Industry Minister Shri Suresh Prabhu said that the Ministry has been taking various measures to enable the textiles sector realize its potential. He highlighted the importance of global trade in fostering growth, and the role of market research in discovering new territories and coming up with new products. He ensured the
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industry that the Government is working on facilitating the industry in accessing new markets through various bilateral and multilateral dialogues and negotiations. Talking about the awards, Minister of State, Textiles, Shri Ajay Tamta complimented AEPC for honouring apparel exporters who have excelled in export performance. He recalled the importance of the apparel Industry in providing livelihood to a large number of skilled and semiskilled workers in the country. CEO, NITI Aayog, Shri Amitabh Kant said that textiles sector is important since it provides growth with jobs. He said that the Aayog accords a great importance to the textile and apparel sector due to this reason. The 22nd AEPC Export Awards 2016-17 were held at a glittering ceremony in Hotel Le Meridien, New Delhi. The awards recognized the top achievers of the apparel industry across a wide range of KPIs and rewarded the best performers in a total of 18 categories. Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), Shri Ashok Rajani, leading garment exporters of the country and AEPC officials were among others present on the occasion.
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NEWS
‘Best Industry-Linked Technical Institute-2017 Award For –DKTE Well known for its application oriented textile and engineering education and close ties with the textile industry,DKTE Society’s Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji has emerged as ‘Best Industry-Linked Technical Institute’ (under the category of Chemical & Allied Engineering) in the nation-wide survey conducted jointly by All India Council for Technical Education (AICTE) and Confederation of Indian Industries (CII). Cadila Pharmaceutical Award for Best Industry-Linked Technical Institute was presented to DKTE by Prof. Anil D Sahasrabudhe, Chairman AICTE, Mr Vijay Thadani, Chairman, CII National Committee on Higher Education Mr. Ashutosh Sharma, Secretary, DST, GoI at 7th Global University–Industry Congress concluded on 8th December 2017 at AICTE head quarters, New Delhi. The objective of this survey was to assess and reward the institutes with good industry interaction.
a three-and-half month long survey and DKTE emerged as the winner in this exhaustive nature of national level survey. Prof Dr. P.V.Kadole Director DKTE mentioned that the institute’s intensive interaction with industries has fetched top position among the institutes participated in this survey. For the progress of industries, DKTE has made many MOUs with industries in the areas of research and development, training, consultancy and joint publications. Excellence in Teaching - Learning Process and industry institute interaction have taken the name of the institute to the national and international level.”
An exhaustive survey was conducted to assess the current status of partnership between Institutes and Industry. It has been designed keeping six basic parameters in mind such as faculty, infrastructure, placements, governance, curriculum and research & services. The survey was conducted in three stages. In the first stage short survey, 9525 technical institutes participated and 4790 institutes were short listed. In the second stage full survey 2162 disciplines from 786 institutes participated. In final stage, subsequent screening and short listing was done by an eminent jury comprising experts from industry and academia. The best performing institutes were selected after
COLORANT Ltd ,Ahmedabad sponsors SDC Technical Seminar –Bhiwandi held at Thane West ( Maharastra) Mr Subhash Bhargava ,Technocrat Founder ,Colorant Ltd was the Guest of Honour at the half day Seminar based on ‘’ Automise,Optimise or Perish He also explained how this theme is vital to any industry . He emphasized more on Textile and Dyes industries that those industries have survived till date who have introduced more of automation and optimizing the process parameters and more thought about innovation.He also emphasized on being an SME ,COLORANT has introduced time to time new innovative reactive dyes to become a consistent supplier in reactive dyes and catering to 650 end users and exporting to about 15 countries. Then Dr Mahapatra ,President ,Colorant Ltd spoke about the “ Reactive Dyes –Past,Present and Future in which he mentioned the new ranges of Reactive Dyes launched by COLORANT Ltd since last few years which save time,energy ,water etc in dyeing of cotton fabrics.He emphasized on using Colron CN and Colron SF dyes for Light/Medium
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shades and Colron GLX/Colron CES dyes to be used for Dark/Heavy Dark Shades. All these dyes are giving very good results all over India and abroad . The seminar was arranged by the SDC India officials and attended by Bhiwandi process house owners and technicians . There was technical interaction between the audience and COLORANT technical team led by Dr Mahapatra, Mr Chetan Mulani & Mr Sunil Jadhav .
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December 2017
NEWS
Rupa & Company To Launch ‘Fruit Of The Loom’ Innerwear Brand In India Soon Kolkata-based Rupa & Company, one of India’s largest knitwear manufacturers, has announced plans to launch the ‘Fruit of the Loom’ innerwear brand in India shortly. Fruit of the Loom, based in Kentucky, is a subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway, and one of the largest manufacturers and marketers of innerwear, T-shirts and fleece in the world. The company will launch 87 styles across men’s and women’s range at 2,500 stores by the end of this month, Rupa said, adding that the price range of Fruit of the Loom would be from Rs 150 to Rs 400, maximum retail price.
tered into a License Agreement with Fruit of the Loom, to acquire the exclusive license from Fruit of the Loom Inc, to manufacture, distribute, advertise and sell innerwear as well as outerwear products for men, boys, women, girls and toddlers in India. Fruit of the Loom products are being manufactured in Tirupur, Indore, Daman and Chennai. Incidentally, it is the second international brand, which will be manufactured and marketed in India by the Rupa Group after FCUK, which according to the company is doing well in India. The Rupa Group is gearing up for rapid expansion and exploring multiple opportunities in global brand licensing, the company said. The company stated that it wants to combines its huge manufacturing and distribution capabilities with the knowhow of international brands.
Earlier this year, Rupa’s subsidiary Oban Fashions had en-
Alcis Sports Launches First Mono-Brand Store In Kochi Alcis Sports has launched its first mono-brand store in India at the Lulu mall, one of the largest malls of India, in Kochi, Kerala. Alcis Sports has one of the widest ranges in the performance wear and ath-leisure segment, with specific clothing for running, training, yoga, football and racquet sports. The store will be a comprehensive one-stop shop showcasing its entire range. In what would be music to the ears of football lovers in Kochi, Alcis Sports is the exclusive licensee for the official fanwear merchandise of 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia, and the new store will feature the upcoming range. “As we are trying to chart out a new path for ourselves at Alcis Sports by opening our first ever exclusive store, it is an exciting yet challenging phase for us. Alcis Sports aims to offer top-notch quality at aggressive price points, and we are very upbeat about the response that the brand has received so far from discerning consumers. We are extremely happy that we are starting this journey of having exclusive stores with the city of Kochi, which is known for its culture of sports.” said Roshan Baid, Managing Director, Alcis Sports at the launch of the store.
of cost for the first month and for a nominal cost thereafter. Customers can also avail of some cool inaugural offers from Alcis – one can buy any Alcis Product and get a FIFA t-shirt and singlet combo pack worth Rs 999 at Rs 249 only, or buy Alcis merchandise worth Rs 1498 and get an Alcis duffel bag worth Rs 999 free. Customers also stand a chance to get a football free on buying Alcis merchandise worth Rs 999. Alcis Sports will soon open up other exclusive stores across the country following Kochi. Currently, Alcis has 150 shop-in-shops already operational in the large-format outlets like Globus, Shoppers Stop, Sports Station and Central.
The new Alcis Sports store in Kochi will offer some amazing customisation offers wherein customers can wear their outfit their way. As part of the programme, customers can have any name and number of their choice printed at the back of singlet, t-shirt, sweatshirt or tracksuit on the spot. The company is offering this customization free December 2017
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NEWS
The Mid-Tem Review of Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20 is disappointing for the manmade fibre textile segment The Mid-term Review of the Foreign Trade Policy (FTP) 2015-20 has been released by the Minister of Commerce and Industry, Shri Suresh Prabhu in New Delhi in the presence of the Minister of State for Commerce and Industry, Shri CR Chaudhary, Finance Secretary, Shri Hasmukh Adhia, Commerce Secretary, Smt. Rita Teaotia, Secretary Department of Industrial Policy & Promotion, Shri Ramesh Abhishek and the Director General of Foreign Trade, Shri Alok Chaturvedi. Commenting on the Mid-Tem Review of Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20, Shri Srinarain Aggarwal, Chairman, SRTEPC stated that although the Mid-term review had addressed a host of the issues from GST to ‘Ease of Trading’ across borders, it has grossly overlooked the manmade fibre segment of the country that has been reeling under GST with asymmetrical input taxes and inverted duty structure, besides facing fierce competition in overseas markets. Chairman, SRTEPC informed that the Council had sent various representations to the Ministry of Textiles and Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India requesting increase of MEIS rates on all the fabrics, made-ups and yarns of manmade fibres. Recently, it had sent a list of 167 MMF items in these categories to the Ministry of Commerce and Industry requesting to increase the MEIS rates. However, post Mid-term review the Government’s Notifications on revision of the MEIS rates, there are only 7 fabrics and 4 made-up items which is a total disappointment for the manmade fibre textile segment of the country, Chairman, SRTEPC added. As per the Review statement to increase 2 percent MEIS rates across the board for labour intensive MSME sectors leading to additional annual incentive of Rs. 4,567 crore,
the Council expects that the Government may shortly come out with another list of items with revised MEIS rates. The Government has already announced increase in MEIS incentives from 2 percent to 4 percent for Readymade Garments and Made Ups in the labour intensive Textiles Sector with an additional annual incentive of Rs. 2,743 crore. The Council will again represent to the Government and send representations further for increasing MEIS rates to 7% on more MMF made-ups. Chairman, SRTEPC has welcomed the Government’s initiative to restore the benefits under the export promotion schemes of duty free imports under Advanced Authorisation, Export Promotion Capital Goods and 100 percent Export Oriented Units and commented that this imitative will suitably resolve the problem of working capital blockage for exporters following the roll out of GST. The extension of validity period of Duty Credit Scrips from 18 to 24 months, reduction of GST rates on transfer/sale of scrips to zero, support of Export Credit Guarantee Corporation enhanced to increase insurance cover to exporters particularly MSME’s exploring new or difficult markets, introduction of a new scheme of Self-Assessment based duty free procurement of inputs required for exports, setting up of a State-of-the-Art Trade Analytics division in DGFT for data based policy actions, introduction of a new Logistics Division in the Department of Commerce and Focus to Ease of Trading across borders are the positive steps taken by the Government through the Mid-term review, the Chairman, SRTEPC stated.
Woods Apparel To Get Separate Stores For Its Fashion & Casual Wear Aero Club, the maker and retailer of the Woodland brand of footwear and apparel plans to start a separate retail network for its fashion and casual wear brand called Woods. “We plan to open 10 to 15 stores in metro and non-metro locations for Woods,” Aero Club Managing Director Harkirat Singh said recently, adding that his company has already opened a few outlets for its Woods fashion and casual wear brand. “Woods has its offerings in the casual as well as luxury segment and also reaches out to women buyers,” said Singh who launched a new range of jackets catering to different customer requirements during the winter season. The contribution of Woods to the company’s total business is expected to increase from around 25% to 30% to
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around 40% driven by this network expansion, he said. He said that the Woodland footwear and apparel brand aims to reach a Rs 2,000-crore top line over the next three years, aided by diversification and network expansion, adding that with a total business of around Rs 1,200 crore, the company is growing at 15% every year. “We have a network of 600 stores and are adding 30 to 40 new Woodland footwear stores every year. The e-commerce channel is also growing and it constitutes around 15% of the business. We are selling through our own portal as well as online marketplaces,” Singh said. In the eastern region, the company plans to add around eight more stores, taking its network to over 50 stores, while entering newer markets like Nagaland.
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December 2017
SHOW CALENDAR January 2018 9-12
13-15
Heimtextil Frankfurt/Germany www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com frankfurt/en.html
11-14
Texposure Textile Exhibitions Ichalkaranji/ Maharashtra / India www.texposure.in
15-18
TEHRANTEX Tehran/ Iran www.tehrantex.com
19-22
UDYOG 2017 Surat /Gujrat/ India www.sgcci.in
19-22
GTE 2018 Delhi/ India www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com
23-25
Colombiatex 2018 Medellin/ Colombia/ USA www.colombiatex.inexmoda.org.co
26-28
Premiere Vision Paris / Italy https://www.premierevision.com/en/
March 2018 13-15
FILTECH Cologne/ Germany www.filtech.de
14-16
Intertextile Shanghai/ China http://intertextile-shanghai-apparel-fabrics-spring. hk.messefrankfurt.com/shanghai/envisitors welcome.html
April 2018 5-7
Fibers & Yarns Mumbai / India http://www.fibersnyarns.com/
14-17
ITM 2018 / HIGHTEX 2018 Istanbul/ Turkey www.itmexhibition.com www.hightex2018.com
G Tex 2018 Karachi/ Pakistan www.gtexglobal.com
19-21
TPF Digital Printing Shanghai/ China http://2016.cstpf.com/en-us/index
26-29
Knit World Ludhiana / Punjab / India www.knitworldexhibition.com
25-28
TEXTYLE EXPO Oran, Algeria http://textyle-expo.com
27-29
Solapur Uniform Garment & Manufacturers Fair Solapur / Maharashtra/ India www.sgma.in
24-26
International Apparel & Textile Fair Dubai / UAE http://www.internationalapparelandtextilefair.
29-30
National Garment Fair Mumbai/ Maharashtra/ India www.cmai.in
February 2018 2-3
3-6
6-8
Tex Novation Mumbai/Maharashtra/ India www.texnovation.com Knitvision Ludhiana/ Punjab/ India www.knit-vision.com Millano Unica Milan/ Italy www.milanounica.it
6-8
Intertex Milano 2018 Milan/ Italy www.intertex-milano.it
8-11
DTG Dhaka/ Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com/dtg/
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com
May 2018 22-24
Texprocess Americas Georgia / USA LLhttp://texprocess-americas.us.messefrankfurt. com/atlanta/en/for_exhibitors/welcome.html
June 2018 6-8
Non Woven Tech Asia 2018 Mumbai/ India www.nonwoventechasia.com
July 2018 9-11
NGF 2018 Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in
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December 2017
INTERVIEW
China Textile Machinery Association Participates In ITMACH 2017 China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), established on May 19, 1990, is a corporate body approved by the Ministry of Civil Affairs of PRC (People’s Republic of China) It is comprised of Chinese textile machinery and accessories manufacturers and institutions, with 662 entrepreneurs. CTMA has won the AAAA grade in the National industrial associations’ assessment for its clear regulations and normalized operations. Exclusive Interview with Mr. Gu Ping, Vice President of CTMA & Ms. He Lei, CCPIT TEX representative. 1. How did your association with K&D ITMACH begin? Our discussion with ITMACH team started before 2 years. After visiting India last year, we had decided to proceed with K&D ITMACH in the year 2016 and developed a good relationship. In 2008, CTMA & CCIPTEX had conducted exhibition in Coimbatore at a small level. The ITMACH Exhibition this time was planned at a bigger scale; more than 100 manufacturers joined and occupied nearly 3000 sqm exhibition area. The exhibitors are all Chinese top manufacturers which are well-known in the categories, quality and market share. For example: CHINA TEXTILE MACHINERY (GROUP) CO., LTD.; PACIFIC MECHATRONIC GROUP(SHANGHAI) TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD.; CHTC FONG’S INDUSTRIES COMPANY LIMITED, etc. They are all interested with an objective of larger business prospects in India, especially in Gujarat where the probabilities of investment from investors and garnering support of State Government are higher. 2. What was the response of the members about participating in this exhibition? The exhibitors who participated this time were mainly from spinning, weaving, knitting, processing segments. Some of the exhibitors are happy while some are not. The companies who have already has agent in India have gained more, while the companies who display in India for the first time have got less attention. The quantity of visitors is not very satisfied. The visitors that had come were mostly from Surat, Rajkot and local textile areas. This exhibition can be perceived more as a regional exhibition rather than a National Exhibition as there was a scarcity of visitors from other clusters & territories across
December 2017
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the country. Also they could not see the result of seminars during the exhibition as envisaged. Nevertheless this is the first time association for this exhibition. Next time, we can anticipate organizing better exhibition with expected outcome & targeted visitors for business possibilities. Some satisfactory industry visits, government policies & support extended by Bhavesh Thakar, co organiser M/s Spinners Association (Gujarat) is a point of appreciation there. 3. Who are the main competitors for Chinese Textile Machinery Industry? China competes mainly with Europe, India, Taiwan &Japan textile machinery manufacturers. Chinese textile machinery is in complete categories and whole set. Chinese enterprises could supply equipment and whole set solution with European standard to India customers. We understand that majority of Indian companies are using European Machinery over Chinese machinery. However, we insist prospective Indian customers to believe that Chinese machinery is price competitive. At the right price; you can get the same technology of Chinese products and high-quality follow-up services and enhance the competitiveness of India textile enterprises in terms of quality, cost and profitability. The other countries that we are partnering with are Indonesia, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Turkey etc. There is a very important textile machinery exhibition Chinese International Textile Machinery Exhibition -ITMA Asia +CITME we held biennial in China. The influence of the exhibition in Asia and the world is big. It has been held since 2008 with European textile machinery manufacturers association, has been successfully held five sessions, next year the sixth session will be held in Shanghai October 2018. Complete sets of equipment will be focused on the continuous and automatic, digital and intelligent whole set solution etc. for the buyers’ choice. India visitors are warmly welcomed to join us. 4. How does the association dealt with the cases of disputes ? The cost of the exhibition is carried out in accordance with the terms and agreements of the two sides under the Chinese contractual terms and agreements. There should be no problems in this respect. Some on-site temporary needs and the services provided by the organizers are not fully met, which may require mediation at the scene, but also help exhibitors to solve the default and related disputes and problems in accordance with the two way contract.
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INTERVIEW
Scope of value addition - from Cotton Bales to Garment ning, Spinning industry is set in Textile by now. Further encouraging to it may result in over capacity to attract consequences.Gujarat has got 35-40 lac spindles in spinning segment. Knitting, weaving, processing, garmenting sector should be taken into consideration into new textile policy. Gujarat government’s 2012-2017 policy is focusing mainly on textile industry. State Governments like Maharashtra, Telangana, Andhra Pradesh also focusing on textile in their new policy. It’s really high time as India hasstill got a provision of 50% value addition, whereas our neighbouring country is going leaps and bounds in garmenting sector. In A Conversation With Dilip Patel, Vice President & Bhavesh Thakar, Secretary General Of Spinner Association(Gujarat), The Co – Organiser Of ITMACH INDIA / ITSE 2017 Cotton Bales production in India is approximately 4croresyearly out of which appx0.60 crore bales being exported per year, fetching revenue of Rs. 12,000 crores. If this raw cotton is converted into finished garments, it may generate revenue up to 108000crores. Also, if entire yarn production converted into garments, it would get us revenue worth Rs 2,00,000 crores whereas export of yarn if taken for export which is fetching us revenue worth Rs 45000 crores excluded, net of yarn converted into garments in India can reap us revenue worth Rs1,55,000 crores. The totalling of Bales & Yarn together may get us revenue for Rs 2,63,000 crores.The Difference in revenue is huge by value addition. If we really focus on value addition and conversion, many jobs can be created and economy will get a boost by this new initiative. Expressly need to convert entire bales production with value addition.
Mr Dilip Patel visited some of the exhibitors of ITMACH / ITS (Indian Textile Sourcing) with Sec Gen Mr Bhavesh Thakar to know more about the technology, innovations & produces displayed in ITMACH INDIA 2017. Exhibitors exchanged market idea & learnt about the scopes & supports. Technology is the real need for industry was the extract of their joint discussions. The innovations explained by Mr Naresh Mistry& Mr Jayesh Mistry at their Stall of Perfect Equipments Pvt Ltd were appreciated.
Value addition from cotton to garment is just 50% so far. Government should focus on this segment. Indian Gin-
FASHION TIPS Party Ethnic / SIZZLE THE LEHENGA Parties are not only about western outfits and cropped glittery attires. You can suit yourself well like the B-town does, in some Desi avatar. Wear a jumpsuit lehenga to dance with ease or go the unconventional by teaming up the ethnic lehenga skirt with a collared silk shirt. Combinations are just the beginning, what truly matters is the right fit and the perfect style. The floor is ready for you to march in to have a ball!
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December 2017
FASHION TIPS Tie the scarf / KNOT IS IN Stay bundled up. Stay stylish and tie the scarf around your neck to keep the winter at bay. Be it the warm cashmere effect or the puffy linen feeling, scarves can never go wrong and leave your side on your style path. Most loyal, scarves are the real hero this winter! Team them up and layer it with your fashion indulgences. Year-End Dressing / GLITZY GLAM Let gold rule your party wardrobe this holiday season. Metallics act as the dress code for your year-end parties. Take the hue to new heights with a pair of silky, wide-leg gold pants styled with a sheer metallic blouse. Sheer it or add a dash of style by letting gold rule the grid, whatever your doing, you will surely be the showstopper of the next party. Boot in Style / HEEL TALK A basic boot is not too happening anymore. Try out some stylish boot trends, that surely turns every head in your next party. High shine knee-high boots are in and let your feet do the talking each time you walk up and down. Add some colour and shine and this pair of boot surely teases the most stylish even!
December 2017
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