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FEBRUARY 2018

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CONTENT BUDGET REACTION 2018-19 13- Mixed response by the textile industry on Union Budget 2018-19: CITI. 14-TEXPROCIL welcomes Union Budget 2018.

FEBRUARY 2018 ISSUE

14- Union Budget 2018-19 is Progressive for the Indian Textile Industry.

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Chief Editor Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale

15-SIMA hails Union Budget 2018-19.

15-ATIRA reaction on budget.

16- Budget Proposals Positive for Apparel Industry CMAI. 16- The post-budget 2018 reaction by Arun Roongta, Director, Texzone India.

INDUSTRY

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36- Mr. Erwin Devloo, Picanol Group BANGLADESH UPDATE 25- Bangladesh Market : Zero to Hero journey..!!

By Avinash Mayekar 26- Bangladesh A Major Textile Trading Partner MARKET REPORT 19- Surat Report TECHNICAL ARTICLE

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EDITORIAL

Textile Budget 2018-19

Cotton sale is controlled by CCI (Cotton Corporation of India) with MSP (Minimum Support Prices). MSP calculated 1.5 times more than the production cost of the farmer, this is benefited to farmer, as they assured of minimum price and tension free from sale / marketing of their produced goods. Fund allocation to CCI for cotton crop increased from Rs. 303 Crores to Rs. 924 crores. But market price is higher than the MSP. Currently MSP is 22.71% higher over actual cost Plus imputed value of family labour, which is Rs. 3276 per quintal as per CACP data. As per this, farmer may benefit but textile industry will suffer and industry will be uncompetitive and it will be difficult to survive to the next chain i.e. cotton spinning industry. If Govt. implements benefit directly to farmer, then there will be a win-win situation for farmers, Ginners and Spinners.

Custom duty on silk fabric increased to 20% from 10% which would safeguard the industry from China dumping.

Synthetic yarn / fabric industry not satisfied with the budget as no step taken for its upliftment.

Weaving segment is dominated by MSME sector.

Rs. 3794 crores is provided to MSME Sector for giving credit support, capital and interest subsidy along with

scope of innovations.

Budget allocation for Garments & made ups sector has been increased from Rs. 6000 Crores to Rs. 7148 Crores which will surely promote exports and production for these two labor intensive sectors. It is proposed to set a target of Rs. 3 lakh crores for lending under MUDRA for 2018-19 after having successfully exceeded the targets in all previous years to support small entrepreneurs of Women, SCs, STs and OBCs. 12% EPF contribution to new employee will boost garment industry. To promote women’s participation in the labour force as well as increasing their take-home pay, EPF contribution is reduced from 12% to 8%.

ATUFS funds has been increased to Rs. 2300 crores for 2018-19 from Rs. 2013 crores during 2017-18, will attract more investment opportunities in the industry.

This budget has reduced the corporate tax & enhanced economic growth which will help in improving demand for apparel. Retail industry will also get boost with more demand.

With positive approach, hope industry will plan their company budget and will make their balance sheet productive for 2018-19.

Ms. Jigna Shah

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The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

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BUDGET REACTION

Mixed Response By The Textile Industry On Union Budget 2018-19: CITI Mr. Sanjay Jain, Chairman, CITI welcomes the budgetary allocation for textile sector of Rs.7,148 crores in the Union Budget 2018-19 and the announcements pertaining to the MSME sector. CITI Chairman, Mr Sanjay K Jain’s response to some of the key budget announcements related to Textiles sector are as follows: A. MSME Sector Mr. Jain pointed out that the Budget has given a big thrust to Medium, Small and Micro Enterprises (MSMEs) to boost employment and economic growth.

• In order to reduce the tax burden on MSMEs, the corporate tax has been reduced to 25% who have reported turnover up to Rs. 250 crores will benefit 99% of textiles sector as it’s primarily in the MSME segment.

• Hon’ble Finance Minister may soon announce measures to effectively address NPAs and stressed accounts for MSMEs which will have a fa-reaching impact on the textile industry.

B. Textile and Apparel Sector • Outlay for Textiles is Rs. 7,148 crore for 2018-19 against Rs. 6,222 crores last year. o ROSL: The budgetary allocation for ROSL has been increased from Rs.1855 crores to Rs. 2164 crores. This will help the exporters of made-ups and apparels as backlog will be cleared and working capital released o ATUFS: For ATUFS also, the allocation has also been increased from to Rs. 2300 crores from Rs. 1956 crores. This would mean that companies will get their arrears faster. o Procurement of Cotton by CCI under Price Support Scheme: A large part of the increase has gone to CCI for performing MSP operations and hence won’t help the industry. The allocation has been increased from Rs 303 crores to Rs. 924 crores. It will benefit farmers but as market prices are higher than MSP in this year hence the budget may not be actually increased. Hence the actual fund allocation increase is just Rs 276 crores for the industry.

• Basic custom duty on silk fabric increased to 20% from 10% would save the industry from dumping from China.

The industry post GST is facing higher imports post GST across the value added segment and was seeking increase in BCD across yarn and fabric – hence disappointed with

February 2018

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this partial measure.C. MSP on cotton • The MSP of all crops shall be made 1.5 times that of the production cost. This will benefit cotton farmers, however, it will result in high inflation for the consumers of the country (as cotton constitutes 70% of the consumption) and the downstream segments. This would also make our industry uncompetitive internationally. Currently cotton MSP is 22.71% over A2 + FL (actual cost plus imputed value of family labour) which is Rs 3,276 per quintal as per CACP data. If we take this as base, it means another 22% increase which will make the industry uncompetitive and lead to high inflation of cotton textiles. The industry has been requesting to change from MSP to direct subsidy system, so that the profit protection measure of farmers doesn’t impact the textile consumer and the value-added industry. Three years back, China has also converted from MSP system to direct subsidy system to reduce the huge stock pile which happened due to MSP being much higher than international prices.

D. EPF and Labour Reforms yy Extension of fixed term employment for all segments which was earlier only for apparel and made-ups and contribution of 12% of the wages of the new employees in the EPF for first 3 years is welcome measure.

E. Others yy Health Care Program-Modi Care will benefit Textiles workers and reduce the problem of absenteeism and cost of healthcare on workers. yy Construction of 9,000 km of national highways by end of FY 19 and Rs.50 lakh crore for infrastructure development will enable smooth textile trade. yy National Livelihood Scheme of Rs.5750 crores will benefit textile sector in rural areas.

Mr. Jain stated that several measures have been announced in the Budget which will benefit the MSME sector. However, steps need to be taken to correct the imbalance caused by the GST. The whole industry is being hit by the imports post GST. The industry has been asking the Government for increase in import duty across the value chain (yarn and fabric) and it is a big disappointment for the industry that industry’s recommendations have not been addressed.

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BUDGET REACTION

Texprocil Welcomes Union Budget 2018 The Union Finance Minister ,Shri Arun Jaitley announced the Union Budget for 2018-19 today .

Welcoming the Budget ,Shri Ujwal Lahoti, Chairman of The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council ( TEXPROCIL ) said “ , the Budget is pragmatics ,growth oriented and all inclusive” .

The Government had approved a comprehensive textile sector package of `6000 crore in 2016 to boost the apparel and made-up segments. The Budget has provided an outlay of `7148 crore for the textile sector in 2018-19.

Shri Lahoti expressed hope that the increased funds allocated for the textile sector will cover fabrics also under the ROSL scheme.

The Budget has increased the financial outlay under the comprehensive textile sector package for apparel and made ups from Rs. 6000 crore to Rs.7148 crore. This will promote exports and production these two labour intensive sectors, according to Shri Lahoti.

The Government will contribute 12% of the wages of the new employees in the EPF for all the sectors for next three years. Also, the facility of fixed term employment will be extended to all sectors. Shri Lahoti said, these measures will lead to employment generation and contribute significantly towards “Make in India” .

To incentivize employment of more women in the formal sector and to enable higher take-home wages, the Budget has proposed to make amendments in the Employees Provident Fund and Miscellaneous Provisions Act, 1952 to reduce women employees’ contribution to 8% for first

three years of their employment against existing rate of 12% or 10% with no change in employers’ contribution.

Shri Ujwal Lahoti welcomed this measure as it will lead to employment opportunities for women in the textiles sector especially in the value added segments like garments and made ups.

The Budget has increased the funds allocation under the TUF Scheme from Rs.2013 crores in 2017-18 to Rs. 2300 for 2018-19 . This is a positive step and will help in clearing some of the committed liabilities under the TUF Scheme , according to the Chairman , TEXPROCIL .

The reduced income tax rate of 25% allowed to companies who have reported turnover up to `250 crore in the financial year 2016-17 will greatly benefit the micro, small and medium enterprises , pointed out Shri Lahoti.

With regard to export marketing, the Department of Commerce will be developing a National LogisticsPortal as a single window online market place to link all stakeholders . This is a positive step as it will provide marketing support to the small and medium sized exporters besides reducing transaction cost, said Shri Lahoti .

The increased budget allocation for infrastructural developments and the encouragement provided to organized farming in the Budget are all steps in the right direction , according to the Chairman ,TEXPROCIL .

However, to promote exports of Cotton textiles ,the Chairman TEXPROCIL urged the Government to cover yarn and fabrics under the MEIS and ROSL schemes respectively .

Union Budget 2018-19 Is Progressive For The Indian Textile Industry Hon’ble Finance Minister Shri Arun Jaitley has presented the Union Budget 2018-19 in Parliament today. The Budget is guided by mission to strengthen employment generation, MSME, infrastructure sectors including agriculture, rural development, health and education. Shri Sri Narain Aggarwal, Chairman, the Synthetic and Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) welcomed the progressive Union Budget and congratulated Shri Narendra Modi, Hon’ble Prime Minister, Shri Arun Jaitley, Hon’ble Finance Minister, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Textile, Information & Broadcasting Minister, Government of India.

Shri Aggarwal stated that the series of structural reforms proposed by the Government in the Budget will propel India amongst the fastest growing economies of the world. It is expected that the country is firmly on course to achieve over 8 % growth as manufacturing, services and

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exports back on good growth path.

Major sops for Textile industry in the Union Budget 201819 are as under • It is proposed to provide an outlay of Rs. 7148 crore for the textile sector in 2018-19.

• Major fund allocated under ATUFS has been increased to Rs. 2300 crores for 2018-19 from Rs. 2013 crores during 2017-18.

• Fund allocation under ROSL has been increased to Rs. 2164 crores from Rs. 1555 crores during 2017-18.

It shows the Government’s commitment for employment generating sectors viz., garments and made-ups exports.

• Customs Duty on Silk fabrics has been increased to 20% from current 10% to protect the domestic manufacturers from surging imports in line with “Make in

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February 2018

BUDGET REACTION India” initiative of the Government.

• Number of steps to boost employment generation in the country include: I. Contribution of 8.33% of Employee Provident Fund (EPF) for new employees by the Government for three years.

II. Contribution of 12% to EPF for new employees for three years by the Government in sectors employing large number of people like textile, leather and footwear.

III. Additional deduction to the employees of 30% of the wages paid for new employees under the Income Tax Act. IV.Launch of National Apprenticeship Scheme with stipend support and sharing of the cost of basic training by the Government to give training to 50 lakh youth by 2020.

V. Introducing system of fixed term employment Under Section 80-JJAA to be relaxed to 150 days for apparel and footwear sector.

VI.Increasing paid maternity leave from 12 weeks to 26 weeks, along with provision of crèches.

Rs. 3794 crore is provided to MSME Sector for giving credit support, capital and interest subsidy and innovations.

It is proposed to set a target of Rs. 3 lakh crore for lending under MUDRA for 2018-19 after having suc-

cessfully exceeded the targets in all previous years to support small entrepreneurs of Women, SCs, STs and OBCs. It is proposed to abolish the Education Cess and Secondary and Higher Education Cess on imported goods, and in its place impose a Social Welfare Surcharge, at the rate of 10% of the aggregate duties of Customs, on imported goods, to provide for social welfare schemes of the Government. This hike will help in protecting domestic industry from cheap imports.

• Rs. 5.97 lakh crore allocation for infrastructure to increase growth of GDP, connect and integrate the nation with a network of roads, airports, railways, ports and inland waterways and to provide good quality services to our people. This will suitably address the current infrastructural challenges being faced by the exporters.

• Fund for Interest Equalisation Scheme has been more than doubled to Rs. 2500 crores in 2018-19 from Rs. 1100 crores during 2017-18. This will substantially help in reducing the cost of capital in India which at present is significantly higher as compared to the competing countries.

It is expected that the above initiatives of the Government will help in development and growth of textile industry in India in general and for export of textiles in particular.

Sima Hails Union Budget 2018-19 Mr.P.Nataraj, Chairman, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has welcomed the increased allocation of Rs.7,148 crores that includes Rs.2,300 crores for Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme and the balance for other schemes as against Rs.6,251 crores allocated during last year. Extending 12% EPF employer’s contribution for the first three years of employment and also the fixed term employment for all the sectors of the industry would encourage job creation in the textile industry says, Mr.Nataraj.

SIMA Chairman has also welcomed the scheme for MSMEs to address the issues relating to NPA norms and stressed assets, a long pending demand from the industry. He has also welcomed the reduction of corporate tax rate from 30% to 25% for the units having upto Rs.250 crores annual turnover. He has stated that more than 80% of the textile

Atira Reaction On Budget • It appears that the budget of government have a great objective of increasing farmers’ income by increasing the Minimum Support Price (MSP) of crops indicates towards higher support price for cotton in the 2018-19 season.

This might help farmers to some extent but for some time

February 2018

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units would be benefited out of the reduced corporate tax rate that would help them to plough back the amount for creating additional jobs and value addition.

Mr.P.Nataraj has stated that the Union Budget has allocated Rs.2,164 crores for Remission of State Levies (RoSL) as against Rs.1,855 crores allotted last year for the exports of garments and made-ups. He has said that the amount is inadequate as there is huge backlog even for the year 2017. He has pointed out that timely disbursement of government dues is very much essential to ensure adequacy in working capital and achieve a sustained growth rate in exports and job creations. He has appealed to the Government to clear the long pending RoSL benefits, IGST refund and other dues at the earliest to ease the financial position of the exporters.

it may be against the cotton textile industry.

• Corporate tax rate reduced to 25% for the companies having turnover upto Rs 250 Cr. The increased turn over limit from Rs.50 Cr to Rs.250 Cr would definitely add momentum and benefit to majority of the textile and apparel sector and increase employment opportunity in the textile value chain.

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BUDGET REACTION

Budget Proposals Positive for Apparel Industry CMAI The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), the Apex Association of the Apparel Industry of the Country, has welcomed the Union Budget presented in Parliament by Finance Minister Shri Arun Jaitley on 1st February 2018 as positive and growth oriented for the Apparel Industry. In a statement, Mr. Rahul Mehta, President CMAI, said that in addition to certain specific provisions for this industry, the general focus of the Budget on rural economy, including significant fund allocations, would help in pushing up demand for apparel in the domestic market.

He also welcomed the added emphasis on infrastructure development and stated that apparel manufacturing involved significant domestic transportation of raw materials as well asfinished goods and infrastructural bottlenecks have been hindering this industry.

Mr. Rahul Mehta thanked the Finance Minister for enhancing the allocation for the Special Scheme for the apparel sector from Rs.6000 crore in 2017-18 to Rs.7148 crore for 2018-19. While extending government contribution of 12% towards EPF of new employees, which was an element in the Special Package, to all sectors, its applicability

has also been extended to the next three years. This will provide an additional momentum to hiring of workers by the apparel industry, he said.

Referring to the reduction of women employees’ contribution towards EPF to 8% for the first three years, Mr. Mehta pointed out that workers in apparel industry will be among the primary beneficiaries of this provision, since the sector extensively employed women.

Mr. Mehta thanked Finance Minister for enhancing the turn over limit from Rs.50 crore to Rs.250 crore for eligibility to the reduced corporate tax rate of 25% and sated that a large number of units in the apparel sector would benefit from this. He stated that the enhanced economic growth envisaged in the Budget will help in improving demand for apparel, which is one of the primary needs of the masses. Mr. Mehta added that the positive impact of the Budget on the apparel industry will also be reflected in job creation, since this is the most labour intensive industry in the country.

The Post-Budget 2018 Reaction By Arun Roongta, Director, Texzone India “The budget 2017 -18 was better than expected as it did not contain populist measures for urban citizens and corporate sector driven by elections. Instead, the entire focus has been on energizing the economic growth rather than giving financial sops to individuals. This budget will trigger a structural and long-term positive change in the Indian agro-economy and welfare of people. Consumption and income in the rural and semi-urban areas will definitely get a boost if implementation takes place as intended. This year the concentration has shifted from the ease of doing business to ease of living which in turn will have a cascading effect on the productivity of people especially due to the implementation of the healthcare policy.

As far as the textile and MSME sector is concerned the impetus of the previous budgets was not much left to be done. Yet, allocation of INR 7,148 crore for the textile sector is a welcome announcement, indicating the importance and priority for this sector in Government’s scheme of things. TUFS benefit has been revised upwards to 18%, which will trigger more investment in textile and apparel sectors. Besides, all other benefits that will roll out to the MSMEs, in general, will automatically help the textile sector as well since over 95% textile production is in SME sector. The retail sector was not touched upon probably because it is too soon after implementation of GST and easing of FDI in single-brand retail. However, Finance Minister Arun Jaitley’s speech made it clear that textile continues be a priority sector”

‘‘But man is not made for defeat. A man can be destroyed but not defeated.’’

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February 2018

ECONOMY UPDATE

February 2018

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17

ECONOMY UPDATE

Reference : DNA Newspaper

SURAT UPDATE Budget-2018 : Nothing to cheer for Surat textile industry Surat’s man-made fabric (MMF) sector is unhappy with the Budget-2018 as most of their recommendations have gone unheard. The budget has disappointed the textile industry as the government has not announced implementation of the proposals given by the industry. The industry was expecting big relief in budget on duty rate, GST procedure simplification, exports benefits, special in-

18

centives, but none of these found in budget. The textile industry has expressed disappointment over the budget announcements as the major demands have not been met. The industry had been badly affected by demonetisation, Goods and Services Tax (GST) and e-way bill.

Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) president P M Shah said, there is nothing for surat textile and diamond industry in the budget. The industry experts had claimed that due to the hard steps taken by the government, the downfall of the industry had started

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February 2018

SURAT UPDATE as large numbers of shuttle machines had been scrapped in Surat. The daily production in the industry has gone down by 40 per cent after GST and e-way bill. The local textile industry has been facing great problems due to input tax credit in GST, e-way bill and the recommendations were not looked at. Over 10 lakh people are associated with the textile industries in Surat. At present, industrialists are facing crisis due to the rise in prices of raw materials like yarn and colour chemicals. Some relaxations were expected from the Finance Minister, but nothing has come out. There are no steps for increasing in textile exports, lack of provisions for technology upgradation in weaving sector. The demands for increasing drawback for yarn fabric and garments has not been considered. The central government is not serious in increasing the GDP growth rate as it has not given any incentives to the industry without which their dream of economic growth could not be materialized.

20% import duty on pure silk will benefit the local industry In the Budget-2018, Finance Minister Arun Jaitley has announced to increase the import duty on pure silk fabrics to 20%, earlier it was 10%. The industry leaders claimed that increased import duty will give major boost to thelocal pure silk industry. In India, pure silk manufacturers are found in Surat, Bhagalpur, Varanasi, Bengaluru, etc.

The pure silkmanufacturers are demanding additional duty on import of silk fabrics from china to save the local industry. Sourses said, because of cheap chinese fabrics, local manufacturers were making loss of 40/mtr and many units were shut in last few months. In south gujarat, there are around 800 silk fabrics producers and they use 15 ton silk yarn per month. Federation of Indian Art Silk Weavers Industry (FIASWI) Chairman Bharat Gandhi said, Theimport duty on the pure silk had been increased from 10 per cent to 20 per cent which will benefit the local pure silk industry people. The local synthetic fabrics players are not happy as no steps were taken to curb the import of synthetic fabrics. In their pre-budget memorandum, textile industry association had given suggestions and had pinned hope on the increase in import duty on knitted and synthetic fabrics, but this hope has remained hope only.

Big relief for traders as govt. postpones e-way bill The central government has postponed the implementation of e-way bill permits for transportation of goods owing to technical glitches. Thousands of textile traders of the city feels major relief as they were facing problems to generate e-way bill and filing returns on Goods and Ser-

February 2018

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vice Tax portal.

Earlier, for the movement of goods across states, the GST Council has decided to go for early implementation of the e-way bill for inter-state movement of items from February and uniform mandatory compliance from June next year. An e-way bill is required for movement of goods worth more than Rs 50,000. The traders of the the city were facing lot of difficulties on the GST portal to generate e-way bill due to technical glitches. The new requirement of e-permits has hit the inter-state movement of goods.

The textile trader association complaints that traders are unable to upload their details or rather the system crashes in the middle of filing of details. Besides this, the transporters are insisting on the e-way bill details, without which they denies for loading of goods for transportation.

The traders have demanded that the government should first rectify the technical problems on the GST portal and then implement the e-way bill compliance.

Federation of Surat Textile Traders’ Association president Manoj Agarwal said, it a relief for the traders thatgovernment has deferred the implementation of e-way permits now. The traders have demanded to postpone the implementation of e-way bill for few months in order to allow them to get accustomed to the new rule. We are ready to follow the rules but the implementation of e-way bill must be done only after ensuring the system works properly.

State Govt. exempts textile fabric from e-way bill The traders of the city has welcomed the Gujarat government’s decision for exempting all types of fabrics from generating e-way bill for the intra-city and intra-state movement. In the end of January, the state government has issued a notification under the Gujarat Goods and Service Tax Act, 2017 exempting the textile fabric from generating the e-way bill for intra-city and intra-state movement. The leaders of traders association said, the decision was long awaited and the entire traders’ community is happy. It is noticable here that, daily crores of meters of textile fabrics moves in between powerloom factories to market area, processing mill and embroidery units. Now after state government’s decision on exemption of e-way bill for textile fabrics, traders and fabrics manufactuters do not require e-permits for the movements of transportation of goods. However, the intra-city and intra-state movement of yarn, which is the basic raw material for the powerloom sector, will have to generate e-way bill along with other 18 items described in the notification.

19

EVENT REPORT

CMAI’S Apex Awards 2017 CMAI’S LIFE TIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD BESTOWED UPON Mr. SANJAY LALBHAI, CHAIRMAN –ARVIND LIFESTYLE BRANDS LTD. CMAI’S APEX AWARDS 2017 PRESENTED IN 22 CATAGORIES APPAREL INDUSTRY WILL GROW BETWEEN 10% & 12% DURING 2018-19: RAHUL MEHTA The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI)’s Life time Achievement Award for the Year 2017 was conferred upon Mr. Sanjay Lalbhai, Executive Chairman –Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd.for his Role as a Leader, a Visionary and an Entrepreneur and for Invaluable and Outstanding Contribution to the Growth of the Apparel Industry in India. Textile Commissioner Dr. Kavita Gupta and Mr. Rahul Mehta, President – CMAI presented the Prestigious Award to Mr. Sanjay Lalbhai at a glittering APEX AWARDS 2017 NIGHT held on 29th January 2018, the First Evening of the 66th National Garment Fair at NSE Complex, Goregaon (East), Mumbai.

The 66th National Garment Fair was held on 29th& 30th January 2018 where 412 Brands displayed their latest Spring/Summer Collection in Men’s Wear, Women’s Wear, Kids Wear, Ethnic Wear and Fashion Accessories.

predicted a bright future for the Indian Apparel Industry in the near future. He further stated that unprecedented new developments would be seen in the manufacturing & marketing Sector of Apparel Industry in the coming years.

Mr. Jayesh Shah, Chairman – Apex Awards Sub Committee stated that APEX AWARDS 2017 were given in 22 categories. CMAI’s SME Awards for the Most Admired Women’s Wear Brandwere given to 109F and Zola, for the most admired Kids Wear Brand were given to Blazo and Peppermint and for most admired Menswear Brands were given to Statusquo and Octave.

The Retail Professional of the Year Award was given to Mr. Vishnu Prasad, CEO of Future Group. The Entrepreneur of the Year Award went to Mr. Nikhil Mohan & Mr. Nitin Mohan of Mohan Clothing Company Pvt. Ltd. The Most Admired Kids Wear Brand of the Year award was received by United Colors of Benetton and the Most Admired Men’s & Women’s Innerwear Brand was Jockey.

The Most Admired Women’s Ethnic Brand of the Year went to Biba and Most Admired Women’s Western Wear Brand went to AND. The Most Admired Men’s Indian Ethnic Wear Brand of the Year went to Manyavar.

CMAI has instituted the APEX AWARDS (National Awards for Excellence in Apparel) since 2003. APEX AWARDS 2017 was brought by Wazir Advisors Pvt. Ltd. and Nielsen India Pvt. Ltd. was the research partner. 500 retailers were surveyed to finalize the award winners in 22 categories.

At the Awards Night , Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner stated that the Textiles & Clothing Industry had promised the Govt. to bring an investment of Rs. 80,000 Crore along with creation of employment opportunities for 1 crore people within 3 years. Already 2 years have passed but investment to the tunes of Rs. 7,000 Crore and employment of only 1 lakh persons were achieved. She reiterated that the Industry should try to fulfill its promise given to the Govt. The Union Textile Ministry has announced theRs. 6,000 Crore Special Apparel Package in July 2017 and the Garment& Made ups Industry should take advantage of the scheme.

Mr. Rahul Mehta, President – CMAI stated that the domestic market growth rate of Apparel Industry was flat during 2017-18 due to demonetization and GST. However, things are stabilizing and the growth rate is anticipated to be between 10% & 12% in the fiscal year 2018-19. On the export front, if the Govt. does not increase duty drawback rates, there could be a possibility of negative growth in the export sector.

The Award for Most Admired Men’s Formal Wear Brand of the Year went to Louis Philippe. The Most Admired Men’s Casual Wear Brand of the Year went to Levi’s.

The President’s Award for Outstanding Contribution by a CMAI Member to The Industry was given to Mr. M.L. Bangera of Climax Apparel Pvt. Ltd. The Woman Entrepreneur of the Year Award was presented to Mrs. BeenaKannan, CEO –M/s. Seematti.

The Most Admired Clothing Company of the Year Award was shared by Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail Ltd. and Raymond Apparel Ltd.

Mr. Sanjay Lalbhai, Winner of Lifetime Achievement Award

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February 2018

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February 2018

BANGLADESH UPDATE

Bangladesh Market : Zero To Hero Journey..!!

“Zero” the status comes as a shocker, when associated with the textile industry of Bangladesh. Looking at the current pace and magnitude of textile business handled by this country, I would say Bangladesh was never a zero, it was in fact all this while an undercover hero, until recently it has been unmasked to rightfully gain the term “Hero”for Textile Garmenting.

On the wider scale such huge growth of Bangladesh is not less than a miracle. This number one position is a very unique achievement for the country which was starving for food once upon a time. Going back in the 18th century, Bangladesh was once part of United India, and after partition from Pakistan it has gone through a very bad phase and its poverty level just declined from bad to worst. It had highest poverty level as compared to any other Asian countries back then. So looking at the transformation that has taken place with this country we can directly relate it with the phrase “The performance is best, When there is fire in the belly”. The starvation of Bangladesh people have pushed them beyond their limits and converted their country into best garmenting nation in the world.

Bangladesh’s economy was the second fastest growing major economy of 2016 with 7.11% Gross Domestic Product (GDP). Contribution of textile industry to the GDP was 28.1%, where RMG sector donated the biggest part. Since 2004, Bangladesh averaged a GDP growth of 6.5%, which has been importantly driven by its exports of readymade garments. Their apparel export has grown with CAGR of 12.43% in last 10 years. There are around 7,000 textile factories of which 3,200 are direct sourcing and 3,800 are indirect sourcing factories producing clothing for more than 200 foreign brands. Textile employment -5.1 million workers capturing a 5.1% market share after China’s 38.6%. The country exported $25.5 billion worth of clothing in 2015 with a 49:51 combination of knit and woven clothing.

So when we speak about the term “zero” for Bangladesh industry is it just a relevant term used to simmer the phrase “Zero to Hero”or something much deeper.

Yes! Bangladesh is been referred to be a “Zero”. From the

February 2018

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very prospective of having the essentials needed for textile industry like availability of raw material, forget about the availability Bangladesh is not having any raw material neither for cotton or any other man made fibre nor they have complete value addition which would have helped them to become the number one garment exporting nation. Moreover they also lacked supportive infrastructure and the favourable climatic conditions. But just as a Hero overcomes all difficulties and rises, Bangladesh too has become number one in garmenting by using its strength i.e. efficiency, skills of people, pure dedication & sincerity.

This sincerity & dedication to work by the workforce was possible as there was no other industry to work in & gain their daily bread. So the necessity to feed themselves and their families has helped them outperform and gain excellent garmenting skills thereby leading to better living.

Even today More than 75% of Bangladesh employment is generated by textile industry alone showing its importance.

A recap to Bangladesh journey will show us that initially Bangladesh entered the textile industry by simply doing fabric stitching on job work basis. These fabrics were imported from various countries. Later on they started catering to the international market needs. So because of their skills, their potential & mainly due to their efficiency global brands started looking at them as their garment sourcing partner. At the same time China despite having complete integrated plant from fibre to garmenting started outsourcing garmentsfrom Bangladesh as a strategic move looking at their cost effectiveness, higher productivity & better efficiency. Hence today Bangladesh is a garmenting hub for sewing inhouse & exporting to other countries. Brands have established their offices or export houses in Bangladesh for gaining competitive advantages. The other major reason that has helped Bangladesh is that it was a favoured nation by Europe & US thereby giving it advantage of selling at cheaper duties in these markets.

Speaking on the relationship of Bangladesh with India-the second largest textile industry & a neighboring country rich with raw materials an excellent synergy is possible that can help both the countries soar greater heights. But I recollect my visits to Bangladesh, on interactions with most of the textile industry leaders & associations, they have given me a common feedback that they prefer imports from India & look to our nation as their big brother, but the major issue lies in the price that India is offering to Bangladesh. As they feel this cost is bit higher. So I feel we need to assess the reason behind this high cost whether it is because of export duty or some other reason. In fact India ITME Society in order to boost the economies of India & Bangladesh had organized India Bangladesh

25

BANGLADESH UPDATE round table joint venture conference with us- Suvin Advisors as knowledge partner. It was observed during the conference that there were positive vibes from both the countriesand it was concluded that the policy framework will be restructured to overcome the hurdles. Feedback on similar line was also seen in India South Asia Summit organized by TAI in Mumbai.

All said in the road to glory there are many challenges, some conquered, few still to be tackled. For Bangladesh currently the major challenges are in infrastructure, roads & power generation. The Industry is running on gas based operations so it has not gone to the extent that it could have. This power issue is limiting the setup of integrated plants. There are only few big textile plants. So they are dependent on fabric imports from India, China & other neighbouring countries. The other issue is of education level though they are having excellent skill sets & artistic personalities.

Conclusion: Still I feel that as Sky is the limit, Bangladesh can conquer new heights so it must concentrate on complete value addition. Manufacturing their own yarn & fabric will help them to compete at much cheaper level in the international market. The value addition of garment cell will not

help them much so they must start their own brands and cater to the global needs. For all this they must focus on attracting investment for infrastructure development, state of art technologies. The other hurdle of raw material sourcing can be easily managed as cotton, polyester and viscose are all available at international prices.

So a country zero because of its backwardness in poverty, education, raw materials and supportive infrastructure but what matters are the end results which makes them a Hero. Just as coal becomes a diamond when polished.

Bangladesh with the dedication, efficiency & sincerity of Bangladeshi have polished themselves with their skills & has slowly & steadily reached the zeal and become number one. Also a hero, role model to look up on by other underdeveloped countries & an inspiration to developed nations.

Avinash Mayekar

MD and CEO Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.

Bangladesh A Major Textile Trading Partner Bangladesh has been a major trading partner for India’s textile industry with a share of more than 5% in exports and over 7% in imports. While annual textile exports to Bangladesh averaged US$ 2,000 million, imports are worth US$ 400.

The major items of exports fibre and yarn of cotton, manmade staple fibres and man-made filaments while major import items includeapparel and clothing, fabric and other made up textile articles.

Exports to Bangladesh has been sluggish over the past 15 years, with some year seeing dramatic jumps but has slowed down in the past two-three years. Meanwhile imports have been seen rising in the corresponding period.

From the product-mix trade between India and Bangladesh, the latter import raw material from the former and export value added goods like fabric and apparel clothing to the world. The textile industry in Bangladesh has been structurally developed to manufacture value added textile products, due to lack of raw material, which it relies on imports from surplus countries like India and USA. India is the second largest supplier (16%) of textiles to Bangladesh, preceded only by China(35%) and followed

by Hongkong (14%). For exports US, Germany and United Kingdom are the top destinations. India ranks 17th in terms of exports.

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Textile Trade with Bangladesh US$ Mln Export

Import

YoY % change Export

Import

2002

190.7

32.5

2003

226.0

28.4

18.5

-12.6

2004

314.5

21.9

39.2

-22.9

2005

338.6

33.5

7.7

53.1

2006

368.5

72.6

8.8

116.6

2007

355.7

75.6

-3.5

4.2

2008

837.6

99.6

135.5

31.6

2009

493.5

122.7

-41.1

23.2

2010

1100.0

162.8

122.9

32.7

2011

1138.5

267.3

3.5

64.2

2012

1652.1

277.1

45.1

3.7

2013

2000.3

278.9

21.1

0.6

2014

2085.4

268.1

4.3

-3.9

2015

2084.3

361.6

-0.1

34.9

2016

1919.2

438.2

-7.9

21.2

Includes all of HS code 50 to 63

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February 2018

BANGLADESH UPDATE What is Trade Between Bangladesh and India US$ Mln Cotton

% Share

Export

Import

Export

Import

1520.0

13.0

76

3.25

Man-made staple fi- 240.0 bres

0.2

12.0

0.1

Man-made filaments

0.3

4.75

0.075

Wool, animal hair; and 3.0 fabric

0.1

0.2

0.0

Silk

0.1

0.0

0.005

0

Apparel and clothing

65.0

140.0

3.3

35.0

Fabric

70.0

170.0

3.5

42.5

Other made up textile 8.0 articles

60.0

0.4

15.0

Wadding, felt etc

15.0

0.075

3.75

0.0

0.0

0.0

400.0

100

100

95.0

1.5

Carpets and floor cov- 0.1 erings

Grand Total 2000.0 Textiles in Bangladesh

The textile and clothing industries in Bangladesh provide the single source of growth for its economy. Exports of textiles and garments are the principal source of foreign exchange earnings. By 2002, exports of textiles, clothing, and ready-made garments (RMG) had reached a proportion of 77% of it’s total merchandise exports. And as of 2016, Bangladesh held the 2nd place in producing garments just after China.Bangladesh is the world’s second-largest apparel exporter of western (fast) fashion brands. Nearly 60% of the export contracts of western brands are with European buyers and about 40% with American buyers. But only 5% of textile factories are owned by foreign investors, with most of the production being controlled by local investors. In 2016-17, the RMG industry generated US$ 28.14 billion, which was 80.7% of the total export earnings in exports and 12.4% of the GDP. Of late, to remain in competition, the industry was adopting green manufacturing practices.

Textile industry has been large developed under trade versus aid debate. The encouragement of the garment industry as an open trade regime is argued to be a much more effective form of assistance than foreign aid. Tools such as quotas through the WTO Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) and Everything but Arms (EBA) and the US 2009 Tariff Relief Assistance in the global clothing market have benefited ready-made garments industry. In 2012 the textile industry accounted for 45% of all industrial employment in Bangladesh yet only contributed 5% of the it’s GDP.After several fires and collapses of factory building, resulting in the deaths of thousands of workers, the textile industry and its buyers have faced criticism. Many were concerned with possible worker safety violations and were working to February 2018

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have the government increase safety standards. The role of women has been important in the debate as some argue that the textile industry has been an important means of economic security for women while others focus on the fact that women are disproportionately textile workers. Measures are being taken to ensure better worker conditions, but many can still argue for more to be done.

India’s exports to Bangladesh in 2017 In 2017, India’s shipment to Bangladesh including fibres, spun yarn, filam ent, woven and knitted fabrics totaled US$ 2,120 million. Of which, cotton export was worth US$ 900 million and spun yarns valued at US$ 580 million. Woven fabric exports totaled US$ 580 million. Among spun yarns, cotton yarn was the major item of export, followed by PC yarns, cotton viscose and viscose yarn.

Textile Trade with Bangladesh US$ Mln Export

Import

2002

190.7

32.5

2003

226.0

2004 2005

YoY % change Export

Import

28.4

18.5

-12.6

314.5

21.9

39.2

-22.9

338.6

33.5

7.7

53.1

2006

368.5

72.6

8.8

116.6

2007

355.7

75.6

-3.5

4.2

2008

837.6

99.6

135.5

31.6

2009

493.5

122.7

-41.1

23.2

2010

1100.0

162.8

122.9

32.7

2011

1138.5

267.3

3.5

64.2

2012

1652.1

277.1

45.1

3.7

2013

2000.3

278.9

21.1

0.6

2014

2085.4

268.1

4.3

-3.9

2015

2084.3

361.6

-0.1

34.9

2016

1919.2

438.2

-7.9

21.2

Includes all of HS code 50 to 63

Nitin Madkaikar

Textile Beacon

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE

Sustainable Work Environment With Lean Production In Garment Industry Abstract:

RESEARCH OBJECTİVE AND METHODOLOGY

This paper objective is to present Lean Production (LP) as a work organizational model that fosters a sustainable work environment in garment industry. This is achievable through some Lean tools and initiatives, described in the paper, that reduce the energy, water consumption, environmental waste, raw materials consumption and improve leanness and agility. Lean Production has been extensively implemented in all kind of industries , responding to customers demand with on time delivery of high quality products at reduced costs, through continuous waste elimination (e.g. over production, raw materials, energy and water more than necessary,...). These problems were addressed in this study by the implementation of lean tools like cellular manufacturing, single piece flow, work standardization, just in time production etc. Lean tools bring significant changes in providing smooth process flow and productive operations which in turn give a remarkable contribution in achieving company’s goals, focus on the customers, giving quality products at the right time and at the right place.

The primary aim of this study is to find out the needs and examine the degree to which the concepts of lean management are put into practice within various manufacturing Industry.

Key Words: Lean Production , just in time production , Sustainability , Garment Industry.

Introduction In the current era of globalization, industries are adopting new tools and techniques to produce goods to compete and survive in the market. The most daunting issue faced by manufacturers today is how to deliver their products or materials quickly at low cost and good quality. One promising method for addressing this issue is the application of lean management principles and techniques.

Lean management simply known as lean is production practice, which regards the use of resources for any work other than the creation of value for the end customer, is waste, and thus a target for elimination. Though there had been numerous claims on the real origin of Lean Manufacturing principles, it was generally accepted that the concept With this back ground, business needs to compete with efficiency and quickly respond to market needs and niches. There is no doubt that the manufacturing industry are confronted with challenges and looking to implement improvements in their key activities or processes to cope with the market fluctuations and increasing customer demands. Applying lean management philosophy is one of the most important concepts that help businesses to complete. In this paper, the literature survey findings such as existing level of lean practices, types of lean tools employed, and perceived level of differ-ent encountered by the various manufacturing industries are discussed.

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(i) This is an overview for finding the current situation of lean management practices in manufacturing industries. (ii) It is a measure to identify the constrains that retains lean manufacturing in the infant stage in manufacturing firms and helps to identify the muda (waste) that evolves in an processing unit and gives out supporting measures to remove the same. The constraint that predict the implementation and sustainability of lean manufacturing tools and techniques are also discussed.

LITERATURE REVIEW A detailed review of research in current trend of lean management in garment industry has been discussed.

Lean manufacturing is a multi-dimensional management practice including just in time-quality systems, work teams, cellular manufacturing, supplier management etc. the popular defini-tion of Lean Manufacturing and the Toyota Production System usually consists of the following, Wilson (2009).

• It is a comprehensive set of techniques which when combined allows you to reduce and eliminate the wastes. This will make the company leaner, more flexible and more responsive by reducing waste.

• Lean is the systematic approach to identifying and eliminating waste through continuous improvement by flowing the product or service at the pull of your customer in pursuit of perfection.

LEAN PRINCIPLE Principle 1: Accurately specify value from customer perspective for both product and services.

Principle 2: Identify the value stream for products and services and remove non-value-adding waste along the value stream.

Principle 3: Make the product and services flow without interruption across the value stream.

Principle 4: Authorize production of products and services based on the pull by the customer.

Principle 5: Strive for perfection by constantly removing layers of waste.

III. KIND OF WASTE

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE A. Overproduction Producing items more than required at given point of time i.e. producing items without actual orders creating the excess of inventories which needs excess staffs, storage area as well as transportation etc.

B. Waiting Workers waiting for raw material, the machine or information etc. is known as waiting and is the waste of productive time. The waiting can occur in various ways for example; due to unmatched worker/machine performance machine breakdowns, lack of work knowledge, stock outs etc.

tices aimed at improving company performance. Activities and behaviors that facilitate and enable the development of CI include problem-solving, plan-do-check-act (PDCA) and other CI tools, policy development, cross-functional teams, a formal CI planning and management group, and formal systems for evaluating CI activities. Successful CI implementation involves not only then training and development of employees in the use of tools and processes, but also the establishment of a learning environment conducive to future continuous learning

The short description of PDCA cycle is given below 1) Plan: Identify an opportunity and plan for change.

C. Unnecessary Transport

2) Do: Implement the change on a small scale

Carrying of work in process (WIP) a long distance, insufficient transport, moving material from one place to another place is known as the unnecessary transport.

3) Check: Use data to analyze the results of the change and determine whether it made a difference.

D. Over processing Working on a product more than the actual requirements is termed as over processing. The over processing may be due to improper tools or improper procedures etc. The over processing is the waste of time and machines which does not add any value to the final product.

E. Excess Raw Material This includes excess raw material, WIP, orfinished goods causing longer lead times, obsolescence, damaged goods transportation and storage costs, and delay. Also, the extra inventory hides prob-lems such as production imbalances late deliveries from suppliers, defects, equipment downtime, and long setup times.

F. Unnecessary Movement Any wasted motion that the workers have to perform during their work is termed as unnecessary movement. For example movement during searching for tools, shifting WIP etc.

G. Defects Defects in the processed parts are termed as waste. Repairing defective parts or producing defective parts or replacing the parts due to poor quality etc. is the waste of time and effort.

H. Unused Employee Creativity Loosing of getting better ideas, improvement, skills and learning opportunities by avoiding the presence of employee is termed as unused employee creativity.

IV. LEAN MANUFACTURING TOOLS A. Continuous improvement Continuous improvement (CI) can be defined as the planned, organized and systematic process of on going, incremental and company-wide change of existing prac-

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4) Act: If the change was successful, implement it on a wide scale and continuously assess the results. If the Change did not work, begin the cycle again.

Thus continuous improvement is an ongoing and never ending process; it measures only the achievements gained from the application of one process over the existing. So while selecting the continuous improvement plan one should concentrate on the area which needs more attention and which adds more value to our products .

B. Just-In-Time Just in time is an integrated set of activities designed to achieve high volume production using the minimal inventories of raw materials, work in process and finished goods. Just in time is also based on the logic that nothing will beproduced until it is needed.

Just-in-time manufacturing is a Japanese management philosophy applied in manufacturing. It in volves having the right items with the right quality and quantity in the right place at the right time. The ability to manage inventory (which often accounts for as much as 80 percent of product cost) to coincide with market demand or changing product specifications can substantially boost profits and improve a manufacturer’s competitive position by reducing inventories and waste. In general, Just in Time (JIT) helps to optimize company resources like capital, equipment, and labor. The goal of JIT is the total elimination of waste in the manufacturing process.

C. Total Productive Maintenance Machine breakdown is one of the major headaches for people related to production. The reliability of the equipment on the shop floor is very important because if any one of the machines is down the entire shop floor productivity may be nil. The tool that takes care of these sudden breakdowns and awakes maintenance as well as production workers to minimize these unplanned breakdowns is called total productive maintenance. Total Pro-

29

TECHNICAL ARTICLE ductive Maintenance (TPM) is a maintenance program, which involves a newly defined concept for maintaining plants and equipment. The goal of the TPM program is to increase production, increase employee morale and job satisfaction.

TPM is set of tools, which when implemented in an organization as a whole gives the best utilization of machines with least disruption of production.

Lean production Lean Production (LP) is a model of organization focused on the customer and delivery of on time quality products, materials and information without any wastes, i.e., activities that add no value to the products from the point of view of customer. This designation, Lean Production means “doing more with less” where less implies less space occupied, less transports, less inventories, and most important, less human effort and less natural resources.

LP had its roots in Toyota company that designed, after the Second Great War, a production system, Toyota Production System (TPS, which employed some pillars, like JIT production and autonomation concepts and some tools to reduce lead times and the cost of products.

It was a book - “The Machine That Changed the World”written by James P. Womack, Daniel T. Jones and Daniel Roos that gave the popularity to the Toyota Production System (TPS). Meanwhile, the LP has evolved into a philosophy of thinking, Lean Thinking whose basic principles are: 1. Value, 2. Value Stream, 3. Continuous flow, 4. Pull System and 5. Pursuit perfection. These prin-ciples imply the dedication of all people, being the last one - pursuit

perfection (principle 5) - the one that implies the strongest and continuously commitment of people in order to improve all the processes and activities in companies, through the waste elimination.

Sustainable development and eco-efficiency According to Brundtland report called “Our Common Future”, sustainable development is: “Devel-opment that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own

30

needs”. Sustainable development is based on three pillars: economic; environmental and social responsibility.

Economically, companies must grow without compromising theirintegrity; socially, human rights must be respect, with social equity and social investment; environmentally, companies must worry with environment. Exposing these relationships, it is possible to notice thatsustainable development was a concept with a strong connection to the companies or business, but also involving intensely the government and civil society partnerships to concretize this concept.“The prices of goods must reflect all the costs – financial, environmental and social – involved in making them, using them, disposing of them or recycling them”. This is also applied to the services. Companies exist to satisfy their clients and to have profit, but they don´t must compromise the-nature and the future of the planet, working at any price. It is important to have a compromise between the business and sustainability.

They must have economic viability, environment respect and social equity of people to have a sustainable business. Achieving full-cost pricing being cleaner and more efficient, producing with less and supplying the customers wanted goods and services makes happy leadershipcompanies.

Lean Production and sustainable development To satisfy the clients, companies consume energy, water and raw materials (natural resources) and must be careful not to be a larger-than-life consumption not only because it is expensive but also natural resources end. So, it is necessary to optimize the processes and prevent wastes of resources in a reasonable “doing more with less”. The relationship between Lean production and sustainable development is evident, sharing the same key idea of “creating or doing more with less”, and some organizations is benefiting from this relationship since, almost, two decades ago. Reviews had been made about this relationship and created a cause-effect diagram showing the evidence between the seven discussed wastes and the impact (effect) on the environmental performance Lean Production carries a dramatic reduction to all kinds of wastes being a whole-system thinking and it is totally akin with a socially responsible strategy. The U. S. Environment Protection Agency discovered this way of thinking more than two decades ago and they are adopting the Lean Thinking principles and adapting Lean tools like VSM, 5S, JIT production or others to assess the use of hazardous material-so, the energy and water consumption, the pollution, and so on.

CHALLENGES IN LEAN IMPLEMENTATION AND SUSTAINABILITY The challenges faced in the process of implementing and sustain lean is a tedious job as the concept relates to time, cost, interest, and involvement, the concepts that together support the new change for development in an firm. The study tells that new firms introduce and accept

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TECHNICAL ARTICLE that consume more energy and water: it is impossible to dye and finishing without water and some processes have several washes, so, high water consumption and energy to heat the water.

Conclusion Finally, this research shows the application of lean principles to the garment industry. According to our familiarity, it is the prime time that lean thinking has successfully implemented in the garment industry. We hope that this paper contains its worth for practitioners in the garment industries.

lean manufacturing and other innovative concepts than the old and existing firms. The forces opposing and driving a change to lean is shown in Figure 2.The following important factor of resistance to change in manufacturing sectors is • Fear to change the legacy system with the new successful trends and methodologies • Not utilizing the opportunities and advantages of the new policies • Market destabilization will lead to force the change, which will be in a non-standardformat.

Achieving sustainable work environment with Lean production From the previous section, it was obvious that companies could save large amount in reducing wastes, particularly, SME companies. With some exceptions, garment companies are included in this category and presented many problems such as: accumulated stocks everywhere due to the wrong product produced, to the anticipated production or to the large lots (overproduction), demotivation of operators and high absenteeism, high level of accidents, operator’s specialization, high energy and water consumption, high raw materials consumption and disposal, high pollution of rivers, soil and air, among others.

According to the research , the apparel (garment) industry uses high volumes of water in raw material production however authors are more concerned in the manufacturing phase. This section will, mainly, divulgate proposals, some available, others in development, to reduce the water and energy consumption, environmental wastes and raw materials in manufacturing phase. Additionally, proposals to improve leanness and agility are summarized.

Proposals for the reduction of energy and water consumption This problem analysis could be detailed by technological process of the textile industry: spinning,weaving, textile ennoblement (dyeing and finishing), knitting and sewing.

From all the processes, dyeingand finishing, are the one

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Due to increased customer expectations and severe global competition, the Indian garment industries try to increase productivity at lower cost and to produce with best product and service quality. Under these considerations, we have tried to implement lean manufacturing techniques and achieve improvement in process environment, drastic reduction in human fatigue and cost with reasonable investment.

References •

Mercado G. 2007. Question Garments- Ask the Lean Manufacturing Experts Applying Lean in the GarmentIndustry Retrieved January 12, 2008, Thomas Publishing Company.

• M.E Swaramoorthi, G.R. Kathiresan, P.S.S.Prasad, P.V.Mohanram. A survey on lean practices inIndian machine tool industries. International journal of advanced manufacturing technology.2011, 52: 1091-1101.

•

Rother. M. and Shook. J. 1999. Learning to see value Stream Mapping to added value and eliminate muda. International Journal of Physical Distribution and Logistics Management.

•

Farhana Ferdousi and Amir Ahmed. 2009. An Investigation of Manufacturing Performance Improvement through Lean Production: A Study on Bangladeshi Garment Firms, interna-tional journal of business management.

•

Pavanskar. S.J. 2003. Classification scheme for lean manufacturing tools. Production and inventory management journal

•

Brewer, A.S. and Pojasek, R.B. (2012). Assessing environmental sustainability performance at the national level environmental quality management

•

Willem Niepce and Eric Molleman(1996) “A case study: Characteristics of work organization in lean production and sociotechnical systems”,

•

International Journal of Operations & Production Management

•

Gadekar, R.A. and Gadekar, A. (2015). Integration of lean-green manufacturing practices to towards environment friendly products: plastic industry. International Journal of Modern Trends in Engineering and Research.

Ms. Aditi Joshi, Mrs. YogitaAgrawal , Ms. ReenaKumrawat,Mr Rajesh Dhore, & student faculty of ShriVaishnav Institute of Technology and Science Gram baroli, Sanwer Road, Indore (M.P.)

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EVENT REPORT

SDC EC’S Half Day Seminar In Bhiwandi ‘Automise, Optimise or Perish’ Padmabhushan late Prof K.Venkataraman advocated “Publish or Perish”; Padma Vibhushan Prof M.M.Sharma called for linkage of fundamental work by reflecting publications in learned journals and delivering in market place and industry; Dr.R.A.Mashelkar promoted Patent-PublishProsper and more from less with affordable excellence.

Presentations and panel discussion on the usage of processing technologies, innovation and water in the textile industry were held on 7th December 2017 at Satkar Hotel attended by 130 people comprising textile processors; production managers; research students and fashion designers. Deliberations led to Automise, Optimise and Succeed with change in mindset for innovative processes, use of appropriate machinery and effluent treatment besides economy, profitability and sustainability.

in the manufacture of ‘Colrorn’ reactive dyes for domestic and export markets. He spoke about the Bhiwandi weavers and their progress with appropriate technology, looms (Ruti B and C) besides weaving of blended PEs fabric and the units working for textile units and brands.

He hoped that the deliberations be disseminated for the benefit of industrialists and technicians.

Talks by the speakers were given as under: • Mr.E.D.Rajeev, Technical Director, Rajeshwari I n d u s trial Marketing, has over 28 years’ experience in textile processing industry and wastewater management. He expressed one should optimise and automise or else perish. To automise, you need a logic and a goal and keen interest on the subject of planning and optimise system, use available resources. Processors want more production with less cost and low maintenance and limitations of concern about machines and their maintenance since trained people are required to operate them. No one is interested in investing for such provisions and hence we need change of mind set and initiative to have such facilities synchronised to get optimum production.

Further, there are problems of effluent treatment system besides pressure over EPC machines and here again good experienced people are required.

Mr. Rajeev concluded that scope exists for automated machines in processing industry to effect optimised production besides facilitating the usage of less chemicals, power, water and manpower.

Mr. V R Sai Ganesh welcomed the audience and remarked about the challenges like demonetisation, GST compliance, increasing yarn prices, pressure on effluent treatment faced by the Bhiwandi cluster and weavers that prompted this seminar to discuss viable solutions.

Mr.Sachin Pulsay spoke about various activities of SDC EC. Chief Guest Mr.Inder B Ram, Managing Director, Invil Consultants & Traders Private Ltd had obtained diploma from VJTI followed by his own business and mentoring textile professionals. He said that industry is facing hardships, and everything has to be done in a better way at cheaper cost with greener quality. He suggested ‘Automise, Optimise and Succeed’ with positive attitude so that it invigorates the work culture.

Guest of Honour Mr.Subhash Bhargava, FSDC, technocrat-founder, Colorant Ltd, a B.Tech from TIT had worked with DCM besides various colourant companies. They have received several awards for excellent performance

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• Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, President, Colorant Limited had obtained PhD from UDCT and has over 30 years of experience in various textile processing houses. He spoke on “Reactive dyes – Past, Present and Future” complemented

by Mr. Bhargava. They are an SME company with 650 users and have joint venture with Colourhood, China for fluorine based reactive dyes with high light/perspiration fastness. They have different trichromatic components for various shades, Coloron range consists of SF dyes for overall fastness, printing colours, Vinyl Sulphone dyes; hetero bifunctional (MCT and VS), bifunctional, polyfunctional types for high fixation.

CES (Cost Effective Sustainable) dyes: New generation of reactive dyes are used instead of vat dyes for dyeing cellulosic component of its blend with PEs; they meet post mercerisation fastness requirements.

Sustainability: Robustness for obtaining same shade and repeatability - RFT percentage.

CS dyes (concentrated salt free reactive dyes, chemically modified polyfunctional dyes) used for knit and woven

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EVENT REPORT fabrics instead of VS and bifunctional dyes for shade depth and tone, conserving processing time, water, energy and load on ETP besides lustre (brightness).

Next generation VS (GLX series) – dischargeable dyes; P & H dyes for printing.

Future: Reducing salt consumption; dyes with no salt; low alkali additives, 100% fixation and unused dye in the effluent. Dyeing methods – waterless dyeing (DyeCoo at Thialand and Taiwan): Super Critical Carbon dioxide medium; salt free reactive dyes – cationising cotton fabric with a suitable cationising agent (e.g. DuPont CR 2000) followed by reactive dyeing with no salt, machine modification is on the anvil (cotton or viscose dyeing with reactive dyes in SCC medium) besides modifying structure of reactive dyes. ColorGen is yet another technology in this context.

Panel discussion: Showcased Automation and Optimisation in the textile processing industry. Mr. Prasad Pant, CEO, Nimkar Technical Services Private Ltd, was the moderator who gave introductory remarks that automation increases productivity, quality, and performance indicator. Automation warrants consideration of factors like ease of programming besides flexibility and reliability in operating; Payback period and scale up. Automation is prevalent in yarn spinning and winding and wet processing industry and one can reduce the number of workers besides, saving cost on chemical wastage. Optimisation is making the best and effective use of resource to reduce cost, waste, environmental impact and conserve resources like water, chemicals, waste generated thereby path to sustainability. RFT dyeing and optimised process can increase productivity since redyeing entails loss. Optimisation is based on the principle of Measure, Monitor, Target and Control (MMTC). For instance, consumption of water per kilo of fabric in exhaust dyeing is 70-80 litres with Best Available Technology and 40-45 litters in continuous dyeing. Cost of water and effluent treatment together is about 4.5 and hence optimisation of water consumption assumes importance. Pad-box denim process where 90% water is used and 30% energy. Optimisation encounters manpower utilisation and hence challenges and opportunities.

Panellists comprised of: • Entrepreneurs and end users - Mr.Kalpesh Jain, Director, Silkon Group remarked that Bhiwandi segment is not automised since end product is not profitable and also no new process or development and consequently they are unable to realise the right price from the consumers.

Any kind of automation comes with price and difficult to sustain it. Companies will sustain with focus on innovation, R&D for product and quality. Secondly economy of scale and in both cases company needs atomisation process. For best quality, optimise the process and reduce the cost. Looms here are the best and the process houses equipped with best machinery and investments are made

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on continuous dyeing. In yarn dyeing they have mere dispensing system though viability is not adequate and it will incur cost to the consumer. Since no other automation could be considered they are investing in R&D. A time will come when consumer would ask that their unit should be atomised to enable them work with. Consumer drive would make them automise.

• Process machinery - Mr.Deepak S Karade, Senior Manager, A.T.E. Enterprises Private Ltd said that spinning and weaving are modernised unlike processing which is undergoing change and hence automation of the machinery and optimisation are need of the hour as well as chemicals used for yarn dyeing in the dispensing system.

• Dyes & Chemicals - Mr.Ashish Chitre, Head - Business Development, DyStar India Private Ltd said that textile industry is labour intensive, polluting with effluents besides issue of cost. Automisation will help to produce more in less time and optimisation in reducing chemicals and dyes and secondly quality aspect. Ecology calls for change of environment and hence there is need to automise and optimise. International buyers audit our process houses, plants and stores and ratings are given accordingly followed by deciding their business. Therefore we need to automise and optimise for survival.

• Wastewater treatment - Mr.Vikas Rathi, General Manager, Sales and Product Management, A.T.E.Enterprises Private Ltd said dyeing with propensity for pollution has shifted from Europe, USA to India, China Bangladesh, Sri Lanka. From 80-90 litres of water per kg, it is now 70 litres and optimised to 60 litres that goes to CETP. Major units have their own effluent treatment plants. Earlier petrochemical effluent treatment plants added lime, ferrous salts and polluted further converting liquid pollutants to solid pollutants thereby producing heaps of solid waste.

The other step is biological water treatment plants which are running successfully in India, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. There is need to protect environment and we have no choice but to do it here in India for the future generations so that they get water which is a limited resource; need ecology or environment sustained, which warrants proper effluent treatment. Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) is not talked much about in Maharashtra but in Tamil Nadu, the industry was closed for some time in the recent past.

We must adapt ZLD to reuse water (95%) wisely since it is a scarce resource. Invest in effluent treatment plant followed by ZLD.Mr.Pant fielded the interactive discussions with the panellists besides throwing open the floor to the audience for their questions answered, doubts cleared and advice offered.The Event was supported by Colorant Ltd., Sivira Organiks Pvt Ltd & Vishal Trading Company Mr. Sandeep Singh, Hon. Vice Chairman, Mumbai Chapter proposed vote of thanks.

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SHOW CALENDAR

February 2018

April 2018

8-11 DTG

Dhaka/ Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com/dtg/

5-7

11-13

14-17 ITM 2018 / HIGHTEX 2018

Istanbul/ Turkey www.itmexhibition.com www.hightex2018.com

Pure London Olympia London https://www.purelondon.com

13-15 Premiere Vision

Paris / Italy https://www.premierevision.com/en/ March 2018 9-10 TEXCON 2018(Conference)

Indore/ Madhya Pradesh events.svvv.edu.in 13-15 FILTECH

Cologne/ Germany

www.filtech.de 13 Asian Textile Conference

(ATEXCON)(Conference)

Mumbai/ Maharashtra citiindia.com 14-16 Intertextile

Shanghai/ China http://intertextile-shanghai-apparel-fabrics spring.hk.messefrankfurt.com/shanghai/en/

visitors/welcome.html

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Fibers & Yarns Mumbai / India http://www.fibersnyarns.com/

19-21 TPF Digital Printing

Shanghai/ China http://2016.cstpf.com/en-us/index May 2018 22-24 Texprocess Americas

Georgia / USA http://texprocess-americas.us.messefrankfurt. com/atlanta/en/for_exhibitors/welcome.html June 2018 Non Woven Tech Asia 2018 6-8

Mumbai/ India www.nonwoventechasia.com July 2018 9-11 NGF 2018

Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in

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INTERVIEW

Picanol Believes In Reduction of Energy, Time & Manpower Brand Name: PICANOL Tag line: Let’s Grow Together Segment: Weaving India.

What change you observed in the Indian textile industry?

Yes, several industries are changing from old power looms to air jet and rapier technology and they are doing very well.

Did you face any operational challenges in India?

Doing business is always an operational challenge and we take in a very right spirit.

What is your fundamental base for manufacturing weaving machinery?

Mr. Erwin Devloo

Marketing Communication Manager ,Picanol N.V. What inspired you to start the company?

The company was established in the year 1936.It started with weaving machines, expanded to industries viz. Iron casting, electro mechanic components & others for the industry.

Which segment do you focus on?

We started with air jet and rapier weaving machines and eventually moved on to customized solution. In India also we have customized solution which indicates that we are close to the customers, having our solution providing branches are in Mumbai, Delhi and Coimbatore Could you tell us in detail, how did you expand in the export market?

The market we covered are Belgium, France, Germany, Europe, then America and then gradually to China and then India and then to far-east. We have our presence in India for more than 50 years. Initially, we were working through agent and then since past 10 years we have established our own set up to cater the need precisely.

How has your experience been in the Indian market?

It has been very good. India is our second largest market.

There is a huge textile industry with promising scopes in

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Our all machines are equipped with features in consideration of least energy, waste management, time, speed, down time etc. Ideally customers should have basic flexible machine which they can adapt from Dobby to Jacquard etc.

Do you have any preference towards a particular kind of technology?

We focus on air jets and rapier. We do not work on water jets because they cause pollution.

How has the company kept pace with technological upgradation?

We have a research department comprising of 120 people. They have to think new technology all the time from 4.0, new way of thinking of manufacturing based on theory of cultural reality.

In weaving sector what will be next level of technology expected in future?

The machines with less energy, less waste, faster in speed, highly flexible with customized operation.

What is your vision for the future?

We want to be the best weaving manufacturer in a world.

What is your USP? Our machines are technologically advanced. For instance, in machine there are devices which measures the time of arrival of the yarn. This leads to diminish air consumption and reducing energy cost. So cost of energy, time, and manpower all reduce.

35

INTERVIEW

What are your future plans?

We want to continue to serve our customer; therefore let’s grow together. It’s not about selling machine but providing customer solution to make them better.

Do you think customer requirement is changing over period of time?

Yes, machinery started with manual operation, then automatic mode and now it is smart micro processor based.

What is your review about ITMACH 2017 exhibition?

The exhibition has customers mainly coming from Ahmedabad and Surat.

Reference : DNA Newspaper

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SHRI MADHU TEXTILES NEW & USED TEXTILE MACHINERY WEAVING : AIRJET –RAPIER- PROJECTILE SPINNING : COTTON - WOOL - FLEX FABRIC PROCESSING – FINISHING – PRINTING – VALUE ADDED 5,BOMBAY MUTUAL ANNEXE, 17, RUSTOM SIDWHA MARG, FORT, MUMBAI 400001 39 www.textilevaluechain.com February 2018 22660197/66348148 TEL.: +9122 | Email : sales@madhutex.com

SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS

MR.SURESH SARAF

MR. NAYAN SARAF

Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com

40 Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 www.textilevaluechain.com

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