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JANUARY 2019
Volume 7
INTERVIEW PUNIT MAKHARIA, MD OF SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS JULIE HOLT, EXHIBITION DIRECTOR OF IEC GROUP PRODUCT FOCUS: RIETER / LUWA / LIVA / SAVIO MARKET REPORT TEXTILE AUXILIARIES FLAME RETARDANT APPAREL INNOVATION SURAT REPORT CLOTHING FROM TENCEL FIBRE
ANNI Y R A VERS Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 52
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From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment with the product brands Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag is the world market leader for filament spinning systems, texturing machines and BCF carpet yarn, staple fiber spinning as well as nonwovens solutions. Spinning
Creeling
Drying
For further information visit us at www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers
Cutting
Continuous Polycondensation Transfer Line
Gear Metering Pumps
Drawing/Cooling
Baling
Spinning/ Quenching Take-up/Winding
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Doffing
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Texturing
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India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of
Torrey Twister
GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS
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RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
TEMPLES
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SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS
MR.SURESH SARAF
MR. NAYAN SARAF
Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com
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March 2018
FIBROTEST Fibre Length- and Strength Tester Fibre length and breaking strength determine to yarns and the properties of the yarn itself. Fibre length is usually measured on a bundle of test is based on an optical scanning device and length distribution.
Technical data comb-type sample holder; - Optical system with laser light and line camera direction, scanning width 60 mm, max. travel 50 mm; - Tensile strength- and elongation measuring system with automatically operated pneumatic clamps, draw-off clamp on motor-driven traversing carriage, strain gauge with force range of 500 N, gauge length 3 ‌ 20 mm, draw-off speed 1 ‌ 1000 mm / min; - Automatic determination of sample weight between clamps.
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World Traders Mfg Co. 1413,Maker Chambers V,13th Floor Nariman Point,Mumbai 400 021 7 Email:info@wtmcindia.com
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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore March 2018
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EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Chief Editor Graphic Designer
: Ms. Jigna Shah : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar : Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : Business Head (DYES), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. Mr. R.D. Udeshi : President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd. EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT Mr. R.M. Shankar : Asst. Director, ATIRA
CONTENT 13- Sustainable Fibre: Clothing from Tencel Fibre by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra 16- Measurement Technique: How to measure metamerism and why it’s important ? by Chris Atkison 18- Technical Article: studies of application of flame retardant finish on nonwoven polyester fab¬ric for automotive textiles by DKTE Professors 21- Fashion Focus : Top 3 trends shaping the fashion industry as we transition into 2019 by Avinash Mane
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.
JANUARY 2019 35- Japan Funds sericulture expansion in Philippines 39- Lankan Apparel Sector 40- China Viscose Group 41- UNIFI, sustainable Fibre
PRODUCT FOCUS 31- J 26 by Rieter 33- Texpac Compact Plant system by Luwa 45- LIVAECO by Birla Cellulose 48- SAVIO meets demand
37- Weaving Update : Optimization of relative humidity (RH %) in loom shed by NMIMS professors
36- Association Focus: AEPC
MARKET REPORT
Interview
22-Textile Auxiliaries
43- Punit Makharia, MD of Shree Pushkar Chemicals
23- Flame retardant apparel Innovation
46- Julie Holt, Exhibition Director of IEC Group
42- SHOW CALENDAR
24- Surat Report
Advertiser Index
25- Executive Summary: Market for Textiles and Clothing 2017 by Textile Committee
Back Page: Raymond
8-Yarn Expo - Shanghai
EVENT REPORT
Back Inside: Liva
9-DN Associates
27- TexValley’s Weaves 28- International conference by ITTA 29- GTTES 2019
Front Inside: Raysil
10- BTMA directory
3- Oerlikon
45- Vora Associates
4-Sanjay Plastics
47- Amith garments
5-LRT
48- Lenzing Instruments
6- SKBS
49- Yarn Expo 2019- Surat
7- TexTechno
50- ITMACH INDIA 2019
NEWS 30- Unitech launch 32- Child labour in hand made carpets
January 2019
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EDITORTIAL Interim Budget 2019-2020 and Gujarat Textile Policy given new hope to textile industrialist
‘‘
Don’t tell me what you value, show me your budget, and I’ll tell you what you value.— ― Joe Biden
’’
T Gujarat Textile policy has been announced before Vi-
brant Gujarat 2019 to attract the investors and before the Financial Union Budget of the country. Policy made to encourage the raw material manufacturer to move to forward integration like weaving and processing, which will fulfill the missing gap from spinning (TUFS) to Garment policy in Gujarat. Though few policies still not understood by the industry’s MSME sector but is properly utilized by corporate sector and few government employees. In Interim Budget of 2019-2020, Textile Industry got Rs. 5831.48 crores which has been lower to last year revised budget fund of Rs 6943.26 crores. Textile being 80% MSME sector, 2% interest subvention for Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs) loans with a ticket size of 1crore will boost employment and economic growth of T&C industry contributors. TUFS & ROSL budget decreased due to low usage and long period of disbursement amount. To support our raw material cotton producer“ Farmer” more budget allocated under the price support scheme. Budget for Silk industry has been increased. The budget is expected to give major textile and apparel consumption by increasing the purchasing power of middle class and farmers. Inflation rate is expected to gone down to 4.6% with income tax relaxations upto 5 to 6.5 lac annual salary. New government stability may take 6 months, few new investors waiting for new government moves. Job creation, Skill Development, growth of industry, infrastructure is always the agenda for the government, which is partially fulfilled and more expected by next government. Wish you Fruitful budgeting season..!!!
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
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January 2019
SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
CLOTHING FROM TENCEL FIBRE In textile industries people are confused about Tencel,Lyocell and Modal. Are they the same or different. People working at shop floor are not clear. All are regenerated cellulose like viscose fibre. Tencel and Lyocell both are same. They are obtained by NMMO method. Tencel is the trade name manufactured by Courtaulds U.S.A Lyocell is the trade name manufactured by Lenzing , Austria. Whearas Modal is the trade name manufactured by Lenzing , Austria. It is known for years that plant holds the potential to meet a number of our society needs . with the development in science and technology , people have learned to make items that are environmentally and socially responsible . the Tencel research programme began in the mid 70 s. the pure research with the aim to produce staple fibres and filament yarn was taken up under the title “ Newcell “ in 1976 by the American Enca Corp at the time , and Enka research in Obernurg /Germany . in 1987 Akzo granted a licence to Lenzing ( Austria) and to Courtaulds ( U. K ) in 1990 . Lenzing ( Austria) gave the name Lenzing Lyocell. Tencel is a manmade fibre completely natural in origin ,made from the natural cellulose found in wood pulp. It is stronger than cotton . It has the breathability and absorbency of a natural fibre , the durability and easy care performance of a man –made one. Due to its softness it can blend easily with other fibres. The quest for developing an environmental –friendly process of manufacturing regenerated cellulose fibre ,resulted in Courtaulds fibres now called Accordis Cellulose Fibres , introducing the fibre in 1991 .This fibre was named Lyocell fibres. The production of fibre started in 1992. currently , Tencel Inc is the company in U.S.A producing Lyocell fibres . Lenzing AG , a company in Austria ,producers of rayon , market their Lyocell product as Lenzing Lyocell . Lenzing AG has on May 4 ,2004 acquired the Tencel Group.
Tencel at present is costlier than rayon , cotton and polyester . Manufacturing process - Viscose is a regenerated fibre and is manufactured by dissolving in NaoH and CS2 and spun into fibre in an acid bath. During manufacturing process cellulose undergoes chemical modification and hence the strength characteristics are low compared to cotton. The manufacturing process is non eco –friendly as it uses hazardous chemicals.
The manufacturing process of Tencel is based on dissolving in an organic solvent called NMMO in which cellulose dissolves without undergoing any chemical change ( its like dissolving sugar in water ). So it is called as organic solvent spinning process. Here the organic solvent is a mixture of organic chemicals and water . N –methylmorpholine N-oxide monohydrate ( NMMO ) amine oxide is the solvent used. The wood pulp is first dissolved at 90 deg c to 120 deg c under normal pressure in concentrated aqueous NMMO by subjecting it to intensive shearing and simultaneously evaporating water . The viscose solution is filtered and extruded into an aqueous spinning bath through spinnerets to yield fine filaments. The resulting tow is washed to remove residual solvent ,dried and cut to staple fibre. Here cellulose is precipitated in the form of fibre and the solvent is recovered back to the extent of 99.5 %. The solvent used , which is made from ethylene glycol , is obtained from oil refineries. Since their recycling rate is pretty high , solvent usage is very low . Thus the effluent from the process is minimal , and most importantly , it is not classified as hazardous . Hence Tencel is an eco-friendly fibre .
Properties of Tencel fibre - following are the properties . yy Strength - Tencel is the strongest of all cellulosic fibres. This is because there is only a 15 % loss of wet strength and hence gives an edge over the others. Tenacity lies in the range of 38-42 cN/Tex .it has excellent dry and wet strength. Tencel fibre is characterized by its high strength both dry and wet. Tencel shows a dry tenacity significantly higher than other cellulosics and approaching that of polyester. In the wet state , tencel retains 85% of its dry strength and is stronger than cotton when wet. The higher strength of the fibre translates into strong yarns and fabrics and plays an important role in subsequent processing. In addition , tencel has a high modulus that leads to low shrinkage in water. Thus fabrics and garments demonstrate good stability when washed. yy Crystallinity – Cellulose in Tencel fibre has a high degree of orientation and crystallinity.The cellulose crystals are highly parallel in longitudinal direction of fibre . The ratio of crystalline to amorphous area is approximately around 9.1
The raw material used to make Tencel is wood pulp. This is sourced from harvested trees and is therefore a renewable resource .
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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE Cotton
Polyester
tent.
1.7
2. secondary fibrillation - to get a stable fabric appearance , it is necessary to fibrillate the fabric a second time. It is done by either simple washing treatment or by dyeing the fabric.
Tencel
Viscose
Titre( dtex)
1.7
1.7
Dry tenacity (cN/tex)
38-42
22-26
20-24
55-60
Dry Elongation(%)
14-16
20-25
7-9
25-30
Wet Tenacity(cN/ tex)
34-38
10-15
26-30
54-58
Wet Elongation 16-18 (% )
25-30
12-14
25-30
yy Cross- section - Tencel fibre has a smooth uniform surface and a circular cross –section .Tencel structure is not a collapsed structure like that of cotton. yy Handle or feel – Tencel exhibits excellent handle properties because they are soft and lustrous . It is a soft fibre like silk and highly absorbent . In softness , it is similar to cotton . They show good drape and fluidity that is unexpected for fabrics of their weight. yy Thermal properties – tencel fibres are highly stable at high temperature . it doesnot melt but starts losing strength rapidly at 300 deg c and finally gets ignited at 420 deg c. it can take high ironing temperatures . if burnt , these fibres will not melt but scorch like other cellulosics . it is similar to silk in stability . yy Chemical properties – Tencel is inert to most of the organic solvents . However , it degrades in the presence of hot dilute or cold concentrated mineral acid. Tencel can be mercerized even at 300 gms/litre caustic at 60 deg c which is difficult for any other fibre other than cotton. This gives better stability to Tencel products in wovens. yy Fibrillation - this is an important property of tencel. When the fibres get wet , they swell . fibrillation is the peeling back or splintering of fibre ends to form tiny hairs on the surface.these surface fibres mat togother and mar the appearance of finished fabric. In other words Tencel fibre has a tendency to fibrillate . Fibrillation means the splitting of fibrils along the fibre surface of individual fibres , which are caused by the swelling in water and further by the action of mechanical stress . Though fibrillation is a problem but the micro fibres generated in the wet processing of tencel can be used to create a variety of interesting touch and feel aesthetics. A peach skin effect , which can also withstand repeated domestic washing at 40 deg c is possible, providing fibrillation is short and fine and not allowed to become long and entangled. It is also highly wrinkle resistant and fibrillates during wet processing to produce special textures. Fibrillation can be prevented or can be used to an advantage. Fibrillation is of two types. 1. primary fibrillation .- it is important that the fabric is worked until the surface is fibrillated to its maximum ex-
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A recently developed Tencel A-100 has a non-fibrillated surface finish produced by means of chemical treatments in the last stage of fibre processing . This fibre is produced by Accordis Cellulose Fibres for the knitwear market. To avoid such problems , the choice of dyeing machine is critical . for example , the then air jet has proved to be particularly effective . soft flow jets , such as the gaston county futura and hisaka , have also been successful with light to medium weight fabrics. Blending of Tencel - tencel fibres blend well with other natural or synthetic fibres such as below. 1. with cotton , it softens , adds strength and increases performance. 2.with linen , it reduces creasing and increases softness and strength without detracting from linen s own character. 3. with wool , it preserves the wool aesthetic while contributing washability , softness and subtle lustre. 4. with polyester or nylon , it lends a more natural hand , increasing comfort and breathability without diminishing performance . 5. with lycra , it augments the feeling of comfort and ease. 6. with silk , it affords an even more luxurious hand and improves performance . The blends adds drape, comfort and performance . The blend also yields high tear and tensile strength. DYEING , PRINTING AND FINISHING Proper pretreatment of tencel fibres is important for further wet processes like dyeing,printing and finishing .this is also important since tencel fibres tend to form creases during the first wet swelling and these creases cannot be removed . By means of the cold –pad-batch three in one process ( TI-O ) ., in one step the size is oxidatively removed , fibre is bleached and causticisation is carried out . practical experience shows that greater colour yield results from the simultaneously achieved causticisation effect lead to a dyestuff saving upto 30 % depending on the type of dye.
Tencel is dyed in four ways . 1. fabric dyeing ( woven and knitted ). 2.package dyeing ( cone dyeing ) 3.garment dyeing .
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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE 4.
rope dyeing .
All dyes like direct , vat , reactive , azoic ,sulphur and pigments are used. Fibrillation will not occur during open width dyeing processes but will occur during rope dyeing processes. Defibrillation is carried out during scouring process to get best results out of dyeing . after defibrillation by Cellulase enzyme , the enzyme need not be denatured if dyeing is carried out immediately . Dyeing is carried out after softening. Since the dye affinity of Tencel is much greater than cotton or viscose , salt and alkali should be reduced. It is necessary for the dyes to diffuse slowly into the fabric . In this connection it is important to control the rate of temperature rise and speed of machine while dyeing. Exhaust dyeing may be carried using all classes of dye on a jig or beam . reactive , vat and sulphur dyes may be applied continuously using the pad steam process. Reactive dyes may also be applied. Semicontinuously , using the cold pad batch process. Rope dyeing is carried out on the jet or winch. Tencel fibre can be dyed with all dyes classes suitable for the dyeing of cellulosic fibres . creaseless running of the goods must be ensured particularly in rope dyeing . since most dyeing processes take place in alkaline medium resulting in fibre swelling , the risk of creasing during dyeing is increased. Tencel often can be reactive dyed in open width by cold –pad – batch process. Dyeing processes also have an effect on fibrillation and hence the movement and water control in dyeing machine should therefore be adjusted accordingly. Tencel generally has much higher dyeability than conventional cellulosic fibres and it requires special dyeing conditions. Dyeing parameters such as tube diameter , fabric speed , rope circulation time , differential pressure and liquor addon ( in aerodynamic systems ) must be geared to special substrate parameters such as type of goods ( woven or knitted ), density of cloth , fabric weight per square meter and of course the final appearance required. In cold pad batch dyeing the basic conditions are the same as for other cellulosic fibres.the fabric must have good hydrophilicity to ensure uniform uptake of dye and should be free of residues to prevent tailing and listening. Moreover the residual mosture content and temperature ( 20 deg c-25 deg c ) of the fabric prior to dyeing should be uniform across the entire length and breadth . The garment dyeing can be carried out by two different processes . in the first process , the garment is fibrillated and enzymes treated followed by dye cycle, where the secondary fibrillation forms. The process produces more classic look with a peach skin hand and offers the potential for good batch – to batch shade reproducibility. The second route uses the dye cycle to produce the primary fibrillation , followed by enzymatic cleaning and refibrillation stages. This method produces a distressed look
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garment with a peach – skin hand , but care should be taken with reproducibility due to the use of enzyme after dyeing . Finishing processes can impart wool or silk like property . the crease recovery angle is also significantly better for fabrics woven from Tencel than those from cotton and viscose staple fibres. Where the clean appearance of classic fabrics is to be maintained through domestic washing , a chemical finishing treatment with a cross-linking resin should be applied. The minimum amount applied should be not less than 3 % cured solids ( by weight ) on the fabric. Chemical softening treatments can also be applied to Tencel fabrics . for example silicon elastomers , silicon micro emulsions , cationics , non-ionics , polyethylenes , polyurethanes etc , can be applied either alone or as mixtures. The high tenacity of Tencel in both the dry and wet states enables Tencel fabrics to be processed using a variety of individual and combination mechanical treatments. Tencel is also ideally suited for processing on the new rope type mechanical finishing machines such as Airo 1000( Biancalani ) , Supervelox ( MAT ) and Roto –tumbler ( Thies) . by using combinations of chemical softeners and mechanical finishing , a variety of aesthetic effects can be achieved from the same basic fabric. Tencel can be printed by conventional methods using ordinary classes of dyes . during printing , tencel behaves in a similar way to viscose and therefore recipes for viscose can also be used on tencel. The pretreatment process should be carried out on machines that operate with as low tension as possible. The woven fabric to be printed should be well desized ,easily wettable and free of impurities. It is essential that the material does not contain any acid residues.it is important to singe woven fabrics made from tencel before desizing and printing . the parameters are the same as those for cotton and viscose articles. As is the case when printing viscose , with Tencel , the higher moisture absorption compared to cotton must also be taken into account . During the fixation process , care should therefore be taken to ensure that there is an optimum moisture content in the steamer. Additional dampening of the fabric before the fixation process has proved beneficial . If it is not possible to adhere to the required steaming conditions , as with viscose , it is necessary to use larger quantities of urea. Here ,low-viscosity sodium alginate thickeners , which improve the penetration ( levelness ) , the dye application and at the same time , the hand should be used. A fixation time of approx 8 min and a temperature of around 100 deg c is sufficient. The well known vat discharge techniques can be used on Tencel without any problems. In resist printing Tencel
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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE behaves in the same way as viscose. USES AND APPLICATION OF TENCEL FIBRES - Tencel fibre is used in womens wear , denims , suits , etc . In mens wear ,it is used as golf shirts . It is also used in the manufacture of towels , sheets , upholsteries and pillow cases . it is used in fine quality clothes , blouses , stacks , jeans, shirts and sportswear.
with special feeling of comfort. Tencel can be used for the production of soft denim. Acknowledgement - The author is thankful to Mr Punit Makharia M.D and Mr Gautam Makharia Jt MD of Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd,Mumbai for giving permission to publish this article.
Industrial uses of Tencel are conveyor belts , ultra –low – tar cigarette filters , printers blankets carbon shields , speciality papers and medical dressings . It is used in technical fabrics in which high strength coupled with high absorption are required. It is used in especially non-woven fabrics targeted primarily in hydro entangled , spun laid and wet –lay technologies. It is also used in battery separation and coating substrates. Tencel is also used for denims . Here prefibrillation is carried out during desizing . Addition of lubricant into water is necessary before the water contacts the garment because Tencel swells quickly in water, setting the crease that may have formed.this process can be expedited by using high temperature Amylase . Defibrillation as usual is carried out by using Cellulase . Refibrillation is carried out at the softening process. Tencel can undergo the severe denim process and further finishing. With Tencel the traditional denim look can be obtained combined
DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.
MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUE
HOW TO MEASURE METAMERISM AND WHY IT’S IMPORTANTWHAT IS METAMERISM Metamerism occurs when two colours are perceived to be the same under one or more light sources, but in reality have different spectral power distributions. Many factors affect how different or similar the colours are, such as the light source itself, the observer, the viewing conditions, the amount of difference in spectral power distributions and the colour of the fabric. On example in everyday life is as such. You’re getting dressed in the morning, you throw on a pair of black socks thinking they’re a perfect match, but it’s not until you arrive at work that you realise one of them is navy. That’s metamerism. Another scenario could be that you are shopping for a new carpet, you choose a lovely honey-coloured one in the store but, when it’s finally laid in your home, you’re shocked to see it’s more of a pallid grey. Again, that’s metamerism. What’s essentially happening – this phenomenon that is metamerism – is that colours are being viewed in dif-
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ferent light sources. So, that carpet viewed under store lighting is going to look different when viewed under the different lights of your own home. Two samples that appear to match each other under one light source may not match under a different light source if their spectral properties differ. This can be a problem where we want a standard and batch to match under a range of different light sources.
Why is measuring metamerism important? In industries where colour matching or colour tolerances are vitally important, using materials that are metameric colour matches rather than spectral colour matches can prove to be a major problem. What do we mean by that? Take the furniture industry as an example. When a sofa is being assembled on the production line, the fabric and exterior components may be manufactured to provide a good colour match under the designer’s office light source.
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MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUE But no sooner are those colour matches viewed under different light sources, such as artificial daylight, visual differences can occur. Image: Visual differences of samples viewed under different light sources
This allows recipes to be created that are unlikely to be visibly metameric. A light cabinet is then used to visually check samples against the standard and detect any metamerism problems before submission or approval.
What tool is best? Both light boxes and spectrophotometers can be used individually to measure metamerism, but work best when used together. Best practice visual and colour assessment calls for both spectrophotometers and light boxes due to their complementary nature.
How does it work? Image: Visual differences of samples viewed under different light sources
Colour accuracy is a problem for a vast array of industries. Aerospace, food, textiles and many more rely on getting the right colour matches but end up experiencing similar problems. For lingerie brands, metamerism can be a huge problem. In this case, the vast array of substrates like lace, cotton etc. that must provide a colour match present a severe risk of metamerism. For brands aiming to make the best quality garments, this makes colour matching an extremely difficult procedure. A spectral colour match attempts to give two colours the same spectral reflectance characteristic, making them a good metameric match with a low degree of metamerism, thereby reducing the sensitivity of the resulting colour match to changes in lighting, or differences between observers. Metamerism simply has to be closely monitored. And to manage metamerism during colour production, you have to know what causes it.
What tools can be used to measure metamerism? We’ve established some of the scenarios where metamerism occurs and why it’s important to avoid it. But how do we go about that? What are the best ways to measure metamerism? Technically, we are not trying to measure metamerism but detect it. It can be detected through visual means, by using a light box or Colour Assessment Cabinet (CAC) and through digital means, using a spectrophotometer, which can help predict metamerism when used in conjunction with recipe formulation software. Without standardised assessment environments, visual detection of metamerism can be almost impossible. For dyers and garment manufacturers, the first step in detecting metamerism typically begins with a spectrophotometer coupled with recipe formulation software.
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Spectrophotometer A spectrophotometer calculates the degree of metamerism by detecting any difference in the spectral reflectance properties of the pair of colour samples. Using the standard numerical representation of the light sources used in the CAC cabinet, a colour software application makes use of the spectral data to calculate the colour difference between samples under the different light sources. If the samples match for one source but do not match for any of the others, then that indicates there is some degree of metamerism between the samples. Light box Image: VeriVide CAC60 with samples for visual assessment and detection of metamerism
Using a CAC cabinet enables you to check both the quality of colour match and for any metamerism by providing a range of different standardised light sources within a controlled viewing environment. Each light source has differing spectral properties that will clearly highlight to the observer any metamerism that may be present. VeriVide Colour Assessment Cabinets have helped scrupulous colour professionals ensure colour and finish consistency for more than 50 years. VeriVide CACs allow operators to assess samples in optimal viewing environments, providing standardised viewing conditions to international and retailer standards.
CHRIS ATKINSON MARKETING OFFICER VERIVIDE LIMITED, UK
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE STUDIES ON APPLICATION OF FLAME RETARDANT FINISH ON NONWOVEN POLYESTER FABRIC FOR AUTOMOTIVE TEXTILES Abstract
Chemicals used:
The use of nonwoven in technical textile is increasing worldwide. Nonwoven fabrics are mainly manufactured by using synthetic fibers like polyester. Synthetic fibres show more flammable properties. In automotive textiles flame retardant finish to automotive interiors gives safety feature. Use of textile materials in increasing in automotive industry as it gives comfort and safety to passengers. Comfort, safety and weight saving are important in automobile industry. It is observed that, nonwoven polyester fabric has proven its worth in exhibiting as flame retardant finished fabric in automobile industry. Also it is observed that, the 300 GSM nonwoven fabric finished with 150 gpl concentration of flame retardant and cured at 200OC shows highest ignition time 7.95 sec amongst all the treated samples, which shows good flame retardancy property.
1. Flame retardant agent: (APYROL PEL)
Keywords: Automotive, Flame-retardant, Nonwoven fabric, Synthetic fibres, Textiles.
2. Wetting agent : Kleenox BAS paste Flame retardant chemical is applied by varying concentration from 50 to 150 gpl, and temperature from 180 to 200OC on 100, 200 and 300 GSM of fabric. Table 1. Flammability testing of needle punched nonwoven fabric before treatment GSM
Flammability
Ignition Time (sec)
Afterflame time (sec)
Afterglow time (sec)
Char Length (cm)
100
1.25
10.95
1.25
3
200
2.15
8.25
1.05
2.9
300
4.1
13
0.9
2.5
1. Introduction
Application method:
The flammability of synthetic fibres is a major issue that represents highly flammable products. Flame retardant finishes can be applied to synthetic fibres and fabrics to resist the burning. Nonwoven fabrics are manufactured using synthetic fibers like polyester are most commonly used for making of nonwoven fabric at present time. Nonwovens are replacing woven fabrics in major application areas that requires flame retardation. Polyester, in particular, melts rapidly with a bead formation without leaving char residue and relatively with low amount of smoke.
Formulation of finishing recipe:
Fire risk increases with the use of nonwovens which are manufactured using synthetic fibers. There are different types of finishing treatments, using that treatments flame retardant properties are imparted to the synthetic materials. Only few treated fabrics are laundered and drycleaned with keeping flame retardant properties. These treatments are referred as durable flame retardant finish. Flame retardancy of nonwoven can be obtained in two ways one is mechanically blending flame retardant chemical with polymer before extrusion and another is by giving topical treatment to the fabric. Topical treatments are useful with thermosets, thermoplastics and additive are only useful with thermoplastics.
For the preparation of the finishing recipe, requisite quantity of flame-retardant agent along wetting agent (1gpl) is used. The mixture is stirred well with the help of stirrer until components were dissolved completely and applied by pad-dry-cure technique.
3. Results and Discussion Effect of treatment on flammability of fabric Table 3.1 Effect of concentration of flame retardant and temperature of curing on Flammability of fabric Sr. No.
Conc. of FR (gpl)
Temp.
GSM
(OC)
Flammability Ignition Time (sec)
Afterflame time (sec)
Afterglow time (sec)
Char Length (cm)
1.
50
180
100
2.10
7.05
0.85
2.20
2.
50
180
200
3.05
3.30
1.90
1.65
3.
50
180
300
3.00
5.30
1.20
1.70
4.
50
190
100
2.25
7.75
1.15
2.25
2. Experimental
5.
50
190
200
2.80
5.25
1.10
2.00
Raw Material:
6.
50
190
300
4.55
3.15
2.85
2.10
Polyester needle punched nonwoven fabric : 100, 200 and 300 GSM.
7.
50
200
100
2.55
4.25
1.30
2.75
8.
50
200
200
4.30
4.50
1.30
2.20
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE 9.
50
10. 100
200
300
4.35
3.15
0.85
2.40
180
100
1.55
4.77
1.60
2.70
11. 100
180
200
2.80
5.15
1.75
2.45
12. 100
180
300
2.90
4.10
0.70
2.00
13. 100
190
100
2.50
1.99
0.90
1.50
14. 100
190
200
4.40
2.50
1.90
2.10
15. 100
190
300
5.00
3.20
1.00
2.50
16. 100
200
100
5.00
1.85
1.65
1.45
17. 100
200
200
3.00
2.55
0.45
1.50
18. 100
200
300
4.85
4.90
1.10
2.20
19. 150
180
100
2.10
0.55
0.80
0.80
20. 150
180
200
3.25
2.90
1.05
1.30
21. 150
180
300
4.65
3.40
0.90
2.15
22. 150
190
100
3.70
1.75
1.50
1.00
23. 150
190
200
2.40
5.10
1.05
1.90
24. 150
190
300
5.35
1.85
1.35
2.25
25. 150
200
100
5.70
2.60
1.50
1.50
26. 150
200
200
2.90
5.50
0.90
2.10
27. 150
200
300
7.95
4.25
0.95
2.20
There is no significant effect of finish on the ignition time of the fabric. The ignition time of polyester nonwoven fabric does not change significantly (at 5% level of significance) after application of flame retardant finish. This may be because the amount of deposition of flame retardant chemical on to the surface of nonwovens, but it is affected due to GSM of fabric and and temperature of curing (P = 0.003 and P = 0.007 respectively) at 5% level of significance. This may be because of as GSM varies from 100 to 300 gm/m2; the needle punch density also number of fibres contributing per unit area also increasing and as the time of curing increases there will be more amount of flame retardant chemicals fixes on surface of fabric resulting in increase in the ignition time of fabric. The nonwoven fabric with 300 GSM and finished with 150 gpl concentration of flame retardant and cured at 200OC shows ignition time 7.95 sec amongst all the treated samples, this may be because as this particular sample consist of higher concentration of flame retardant chemical and higher curing temperature resulting in more fixation of chemical on to the surface of fabric. 3.2 Effect of treatment on After-flame Time of fabric
3.1 Effect of treatment on Ignition Time of fabric
Fig. 3.3 After – flame Time of treated nonwoven fabric
Figure 3.1 Ignition Time
Fig. 3.4 Effect of process variables on After flame Time
Fig. 3.2 Effect of process variables on Ignition Time From table 3.1 and figure 3.1 and 3.2, it is observed that the ignition time of nonwoven fabric samples was unaffected due concentration of flame retardant (P = 0.121), January 2019
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From table 3.1 and figure 3.3 and 3.4, it is observed that the after flame time of nonwoven fabric samples was unaffected dueconcentration of flame retardant, GSM of fabric and temperature of curing (P = 0.083, P = 0.843, P = 0.819 respectively). There is no significant effect of finish on after flame time of the fabric. The after flame time of polyester nonwoven fabric does not change significantly (at 5% level
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE of significance) after application of flame retardant finish. Also, it is observed that, there is less significant effect of concentration of flame retardant chemical on to the after flame time.
3.3 Effect of treatment on After-glow Time of fabric
Fig. 3.8 Effect of process variables on Char Length
Fig. 3.5 After-glow Time of treated nonwoven fabric
From table 3.1 and figure 3.7 and 3.8, it is observed that the char length of nonwoven fabric samples was unaffected due concentration of flame retardant, temperature of curing and GSM of fabric (P = 0.125, P = 0.796, P = 0.250 respectively). There is no significant effect of finish on char length of the fabric. The char length of polyester nonwoven fabric does not change significantly (at 5% level of significance) after application of flame retardant finish. The 100 GSM nonwoven fabric finished with 150 gpl concentration of flame retardant and cured at 180OC shows char length 0.80 cm amongst all the treated samples, this may be because as the sample is only 100 GSM and also number of fibres contributing to the given area is less. As less number of fibres are available for burning, less char is obtained.
Conclusions
Fig. 3.6 Effect of process variables on After-glow Time From table 3.1 and figure 3.5 and 3.6, it is observed that the after-glow time of nonwoven fabric samples was unaffected dueconcentration of flame retardant, temperature of curing andGSM of fabric (P = 0.531, P = 0.434, P = 0.973 respectively). There is no significant effect of finish on after-glow time of the fabric. The after-glow time of polyester nonwoven fabric does not change significantly (at 5% level of significance) after application of flame retardant finish.
Fig. 3.7 Char length of treated nonwoven fabri
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The application of flame retardant in automobile textile targets for improving the functionalities of materials or give it new a features. After analyzing the results, statistically, it is observed that the 300 GSM nonwoven fabric finished with 150 gpl concentration of flame retardant and cured at 200OC shows highest ignition time 7.95 sec amongst all the treated samples, which shows good flame retardancy property. The 100 GSM nonwoven fabric finished with 150 gpl concentration of flame retardant and cured at 180OC shows lowest after flame time 0.55 sec amongst all the treated samples, which shows good flame retardancy property. The 100 GSM nonwoven fabric finished with 150-gpl concentration of flame retardant and cured at 180OC shows 0.80 cm amongst all the treated samples for excellent flame retardancy property and lowest char length. The present study reveals that the 100 GSM nonwoven polyester fabric finished with 150 gpl of flame retardant chemical and cured at 180OC gives better results. Nonwoven polyester fabric has proven its worth in exhibiting as flame retardant finished fabric in automobile industry. References 1. Parmara M S, et al, “Study on flame retardant properties of poly(lactic acid) fibre fabrics�, Indian Journal of Fiber & Textile Research Vol. 39, September 2014, pp. 268-273.
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE 2. Mazharul Islam Kiron, “An Overview of Flame Retardant Nonwoven Fabrics”,http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/04/an-overview-of-flame-retardant-nonwoven.html 29 Dec 2017 3. Thiruma Mariappan, “Fire Retardant Coatings”, http://dx.doi. org/10.5772/67675 4. Subhas Ghosha & Sukanya Krishnan, “Application of poly (lactic acid) fibres in automotive interior”, Indian Journal of Fiber & Textile Research Vol. 32, March 2007, pp. 119-121.
5. Schindler W. D. and Hauser P. J., “Chemical finishing of textiles”, published by Woodhead Publishing Limited, England 2000. 6. Fung Walter and Mike Hardcastle, “Textiles in automotive engineering”, Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited, England 2001.
S. M. LANDAGE AND R. S. DHUMAL D.K.T.E. Textile and Engineering Institute Ichalkaranji 416 115, Maharashtra, India
FASHION FOCUS
TOP 3 TRENDS SHAPING THE FASHION INDUSTRY AS WE TRANSITION INTO 2019 The ever-changing Fashion Industry has seen numerous transitions over the years. As people’s style quotient evolves, so do their demands for newer designs and products. This remains constant even today, but changes are not just driven by newer design choices but also the requirements for a sustainable future. With an ongoing set of environmental issues the fashion industry is taking measures, doing its part to curtail further damage. Eco-friendly and sustainable fashion are being seen as the ongoing trend as more and more companies continue to transition away from harmful materials and manufacturing processes. Citing an increased number of Consumers and Designers becoming cautious about the materials that their clothes are made of; Fashion brands have been compelled to make changes to their offerings. Here’s a look at some of the top trends in the Fashion Industry foreseeable in 2019:
I. Change in Materials Raw materials that are actively used by the fashion industry are becoming a cause of concern as we witness scarcity of resources, increasing cost of raw materials and lack of recyclability moving forward. Common fibres like cotton are water-intensive and hence face security risk of supply, while fibres like polyester originate from carbonintensive non-renewable resource. These factors are influencing the fashion industry, as brands and designers are moving towards more eco-friendly materials. Major brands like Zara and H&M have also started transitioning into using sustainable fibres like lyocell, along with cotton denims.
II. Green Denims A pair of denim jeans has been the go-to bottom wear of choice for the longest time, but did you know that its
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manufacturing process involves usage of toxic chemicals and huge consumption of water? Looking at the environmental concerns, increasing number of brands are now moving towards sustainable means to manufacture your favourite pair of jeans. These include using laser technology instead of bleaching for fading fabric, recycled fabrics, usage of organic Dyes and reduction in water usage in the manufacturing process.
III. Staying Cruelty Free & Vegan Fashion The perception of a fashion statement is changing as consumers around the globe are embracing vegan and cruelty free products. People are moving away from products obtained by sacrificing or harming animals in any manner. Leather, Suede, Wool, Silk and feather are being looked down upon, and there is an increasing demand for natural and synthetic alternatives. Major fashion labels are opting for alternatives such as Vegan or synthetic leather and have also gone fur-free.
AVINASH MANE
Commercial Head – South Asia, Lenzing Group.
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MARKET REPORT
TEXTILE AUXILIARIES TO BOOST MARKET GROWTH WITH RISE IN RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT STRATEGIES Textile industry being one of the most established industries of the market is concerned with production, design, and distribution of cloth, and yarn. Textile auxiliary, being a part of the textile industry is maneuvered for various purposes at various stages of textile processing. These stages are pre-treatment, printing, dying, and finishing. Textile auxiliaries are engaged in the processing in order to increase the aesthetic appeal as well as durability of textile products. The textile industry is seen to be increasing its utilization in the market due to the functional properties of these products. The surge in consumption and production of textiles is presumed to boost the global textile auxiliaries market in the future years. There are various exhibitions held in order to do branding and advertise textile products in the world. There is a taste for garments developed with time and various textile companies try to use this trend to draw more revenue into their company by producing better quality products as compared to their fellow competitors. For instance, the latest textile products and technologies were out for exhibition on Vietnam Hanoi Textile and Garment Industry Expo towards the end of September. This expo had hosted textile materials from around 12 countries of the world including Hong Kong, and China which had attracted almost about 118 enterprises from the world to display their best quality products including silk, yarn bamboo fiber, cotton, and non-woven fabrics, at the expo.
BRIC Nations to Contribute More Revenue Share Due To Surge in Architectural Purposes The growth in infrastructure and urbanization on a rapid scale in the BRIC nations of Brazil, Russia, India, China, and South America is providing an advantageous factor for the development of textile auxiliaries in the global market. It is mainly used for architectural and construction purposes like concrete reinforcement, insulation, and faced foundation. The increase in technical textile usage is projected to accelerate the market for textile auxiliaries in the period of assessment. Major players of the market are focusing on innovative techniques in Research and development strategies in order to set their strong foot in the market. Another sub division of textiles called meditech textiles are used for health and hygiene purposes and are also used for surgical purposes. Rising awareness regarding hygiene and health in developing nations is also boosting the need and demand for medical care all around the world. Government is also taking initiatives to increase per cap-
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ita income expenditure on medical facilities on a global basis. They are making investments in research and development activities in order to produce energy efficient and eco-friendly products. Along with that the demand for healthcare products like sanitary napkins and baby diapers are also fuelling the growth of the textile auxiliaries market in the world.
Asia Pacific to Witness High Growth Frequency with Eco-Friendly and Cost-Efficient Products Although the growth of the textile auxiliaries is projected to witness remarkable growth, factors like the high cost of natural textile auxiliaries may further hamper the market in the long run. Natural textiles are more expensive as compared to synthetic ones and this is because of the high cost of raw materials and cost of operation that have limited availability in terms of natural auxiliaries. However, the operations used for manufacturing and extraction of natural textile auxiliaries require trained workers with technical knowledge in order to organize the process. Factors like these may affect the development of the textile auxiliaries market in the long run. Geographically, the textile auxiliaries companies are seen to be dominating the market in regions of Europe, North America, Asia Pacific and the Rest of the World. There is more focus on producing chemicals that are cost efficient, energy efficient as well as eco-friendly. Asia Pacific is seen to be dominating the market due to contributions from emerging nations of Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Malaysia, Bangladesh, and Singapore. India also contributes a large portion of the share of the Asia Pacific market. Latin America is also presumed to be competing at a close end with Asia Pacific owing to revenue generation from countries like Peru, Chile, Argentina, Mexico, and Brazil. The future market of textile auxiliaries is forecasted to be growing significantly with time. To know more about this research report, please visit our latest research report on: https://www.transparencymarketresearch.com/textile-auxiliaries-market.html
About Us Transparency Market Research is a global market intelligence company, providing global business information reports and services. Our exclusive blend of quantitative forecasting and trends analysis provides forward-looking insight for thousands of decision makers. Our experienced team of Analysts, Researchers, and Consultants, use proprietary data sources and various tools and techniques to gather, and analyze information.
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MARKET REPORT
ERGONOMICS AND COMFORT CENTRAL TO FLAME RETARDANT APPAREL INNOVATION Global flame retardant sales reached nearly 192 million square meter in 2018, with momentum likely to drive the market to a 6.2% y-o-y in 2019, according to Fact.MR’s latest analysis. Imposition of stringent regulatory rules and growing awareness about workers’ safety in highrisk industries worldwide continue to drive growth. Gains have also been driven by macroeconomic factors, notably stability in global oil prices and capital injection in infrastructure projects. The study opines that effective implementation of workplace safety guidelines in developing countries can open up new opportunities for manufacturers. “Not protecting their employees with good-quality flame retardant apparels can cost employer organizations a fortune with the medical care and rehabilitation of injured employees. Apart from strict legal regulations, growing safety awareness among employees is driving the purchases of flame retardant apparels across several industries,” says senior research analyst Prakhar Jain at Fact. MR. “Flame retardant apparel market players are now focusing on improving comfort along with the safety of their products, and provide flame retardant apparels that can suit the end-users’ changing demands.” Oil & Gas and Power Generation Industries Create Promising Growth Opportunities According to the study, the oil & gas industry remains the largest consumer of flame retardant apparels.
The study finds EU at the forefront of global flame retardant apparel demand, with over one-third volume share in 2018. The constantly evolving regulatory framework for personal protective equipment in Europe has accelerated the demand for flame retardant apparels in the region. The mandatory conformity to the Regulation (EU) 2016/425 adopted by the European Commission has been instrumental in boosting growth of the Europe flame retardant apparel market. Furthermore, rapidly growing oil & gas demand in the European Union has bolstered the expansion of the oil & gas industry in the region, which is likely to create positive growth environment for flame retardant apparel market players. Thereby, flame retardant apparel market players are shifting their focus on complying with the European regulatory framework and meeting the dynamic end-user requirements in the region. The study predicts that the flame retardant apparel market will grow at an impressive 6.5% volume CAGR through 2027. These insights are as per Fact.MR report projects an optimistic development for Flame Retardant Apparel Market in the future. https://www.factmr.com/report/2830/flame-retardantapparel-market
The oil & gas industry is one of the high-risk industries that can pose serious harm to workers’ health and is prone to severe workplace accidents. Protective clothing, such as flame retardant apparels, have proven to be an effective safeguard against serious injuries and fatalities. The fatal accident rate (FAR) in the oil & gas industry decreased by approximate 36% in 2017 over 2016 as the number of fatalities decreased from 50 to 33 during the year, according to the reports filed by 45 oil & gas companies associated with the International Association of Oil & Gas Producers (IOGP) organization. The study opines that the effectiveness of protective clothing in improving worker safety will continue to drive sales in 2019 and beyond. Demand for flame retardant apparels will be complemented by healthy adoption in the power industry. Evolving workplace safety regulation in power, electronics electrical, and automotive & transportation industries are also likely to influence growth. European Market to Create Most Promising Growth Opportunities with Over One-Third Volume Share
January 2019
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SURAT REPORT New textile policy: Weavers demands equal power subsidy for existing units The powerloom weavers of the city are not happy with the state government’s recently declared new textile policy. The power subsidy scheme, for instance, intends to give a reprieve of Rs 3 per billed electricity unit (Kwh) for units having low tension power connection and Rs 2 per billed unit (Kwh) for units having high tension power connection. The scheme will provide special incentive for new units which intend to go for forward or backward integration. According to weavers, this will create an unhealthy competition between new and existing 40,000 powerloom units in the city. They have demanded uqual relief for the existing players by extending the benefit of power subsidy. Earlier, in their representation, weavers association FOGWA has demanded Rs 3.5 elecricity tariff to boost powerloom industry. In order to stop migration of power loom weaving units to the neighbouring state, the association has urged to match the electricity tariff on the lines of Maharashtra and provide additional benefit of 35% subsidy on capital investment. Maharashtra government is offering electricity tariff at Rs 3.50 per unit, whereas the unit owner in Gujarat is paying Rs 7.50 per unit. In it’s new textile policy(September 2018 to December 2023), the state government has declared power subsidy, for new units only. The existing units needs to be encouraged for modernisation and power tariff subsidy, whereas the government is providing benefits to only new units. The powerloom owner said, to provide same level playing field, the government should consider all textile units eligible for power tariff subsidy. The new textile policy does not provide any capital subsidy, This will discourage new investments in the textile sector in Gujarat. The weavers has also request for 5 to 8 per cent interest subsidy and 25% capital subsidy to upgrade 5 lakh powerloom machines. Financial assistance of 25% on capital investment and waiver of 100% stamp duty is a much needed incentive. The government has imposed a cap of Rs 30 lakh for extending assistance for the of cost of machinery and equipment required for energy conservation, water conservation and environment compliance. The textile processors said that at a time when industry is making efforts for better energy efficiency zero liquid discharge, the assistance should have been more than one crore.
Union Budget 2017-18 : MMF sector expecting 30% TUF subsidy The Union Budget for 2019-20 will be presented on February 1. The textile associations of the city are expecting
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increasing subsidy in technology upgradation scheme from 10% to 30% in the union budget 2019-20. The industry has sought clearence of more than thousand pending files of TUF subsidy belonging to small powerloom weavers. Surat is the country’s biggest manufacturer of man-made fabric with annual production pegged at 1,000 million metre. The powerloom sector has an installed capacity of around 5 lakh machines, employing over 5 lakh workers. The Man Made Fibre(MMF) based textile sector of Surat is expecting excise duty relief in union budget 2019-20. Indian man-made fibre are 23 per cent more expensive globally. India stands at no. 2 in MMF production globally, but india’s share is only 4% in value added MMF textile exports. The government should consider a long term plan to boost exports from India. The government should reduce excise duty on man-made fibres in line with growing neighbouring economies like China, Vietnam, Bangladesh and Thailand. Besides excise duty relief in MMF, the surat industry has demanded 10% customs duty on imported fabrics, remove anti-dumping duty on imported yarn, duty rationalisation on textile machinery & it’s spareparts, free trade agrement with foreign countries, hassle free finance for small textile units, carry forward the pending 600 crore ITC credit to the weavers and equal electricity tariff for textile industry across the country
SITEX : HIGH SPEED RAPIER LOOM MACHINE GLITTERS, MORE THAN 22,000 BUYERS TOOK THE VISIT This year, The high speed rapier loom machine, electronic jacquard and velvet fabric machine remain in attraction in textile exhibition SITEX. A three days(4-6 January) Surat International Textile Expo (SITEX)-2019 was organised by the southern Gujarat chamber of commerce and industry (SGCCI) in the city. More than 22,000 buyers has visited the exhibition. Over 130 exhibitors from across Gujarat and other states including international exhibitors from China etc. had participated in the three day long event to provide excellent opportunity to the manufacturers, dealers, wholesalers and retailers in the country’s largest man-made fabric (MMF) hub. A wide range of products and services including shutter looms, rapier looms, water jet looms, air jet looms, needle looms, twister machines, digital printing machines, electronic jacquard machines, yarn dyeing plant, water recycling plant, circular knitting machines were displayed. The velvet and 6000 hook rapier loom machine was displayed first time in the exhibition.
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January 2019
MARKET REPORT Executive Summary: Market for Textiles & Clothing (MTC)’ 2017 By Textiles Committee The Indian Textiles and Clothing (T&C) industry plays a crucial role in the Indian economy and contributes about 7 percent of industrial production and 2 percent of Gross Domestic Product (GDP) of the country. The industry also creates employment opportunities for about 45 million1 people and accounts for 12.57 percent2 of the export of the country with a share of 5.03 percent in textiles (HS Chapter 50 to 60) and 7.54 percent2 in clothing and made-ups (HS Chapter 61 to 63) in the global market during 2017. 2. The domestic demand of textiles, which is characterised by demand from Household and Non-Household sector, plays a significant role in the overall growth and performance of the Textiles Industry of India. The Household sector is the major growth driver and contributes about 53.39 percent to the overall demand of textiles and clothing products. 3. In order to estimate the domestic demand for Textiles and Clothing in the Household sector, the Textiles Committee has been publishing an Annual Report titled “Market for Textiles and Clothing (MTC)” since the year 1969. 4. The report estimates the per capita and aggregate demand of textiles & clothing in the country by region, gender, area, income group etc. besides estimating the preference pattern by fibre, product groups viz. woven apparels, knitted apparels, home textiles, etc. in the Household sector of the country. This is the only authenticated report available in the country, which provides domestic market size of textiles at disaggregated level. 5. The report is published on the basis of the textile purchase data collected bi-monthly from selected panel Household across the country. The data base generated from the collected data is analyzed and findings of the report are published in the form of an annual Report. The latest annual report “Market for Textiles and Clothing (MTC): National Household Survey 2017” has been prepared by the Textiles Committee. Besides, estimating the domestic demand for 2015 & 2016, the report has also forecasted the market size for 2017 & 2018. 6. The key findings of the “Market for Textiles and Clothing (MTC)” are as follows:
I. Domestic demand of Textiles in the Household sector: The overall market size of Textiles and Clothing including exports has increased from USD 145.71 billion in 2015 to USD 146.63 billion in 2016, which is expected to touch USD 164 billion by 2018. Out of USD 146.63 billion (2016), exports accounted for USD 35.43 billion whereas House-
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hold sector accounted for USD 78.28 billion followed by USD 32.91 billion of Non-Household sector in 2016. Thus, the Household sector contributed 53.39 percent to the overall market size of the Textiles and Clothing and the same has been analysed in detail in the MTC, 2017.
II. Aggregate demand for Textiles & Clothing in Household sector in terms of quantity and value: The aggregate demand for Textiles & Clothing was 41.06 billion metres in 2016 as compared to 38.54 billion metres in 2015 and have experienced an annual growth rate of 6.55 percent and demand is expected to touch 45.32 billion. metres by 2018, growing at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 5.34 per cent between 20112018. In terms of value, the demand has increased to Rs.5261.53 billion in 2016 as compared to Rs.4883.57 billion in 2015 and has experienced an annual growth rate of 7.74 percent and demand is expected to touch Rs.6204.02 billion by 2018, with CAGR of 9.54 per cent between 2011-2018.
III. Per Capita Demand for Textiles & Clothing in the Household Sector: The per capita demand for textiles was Rs. 4081.60 in 2016 as compared to Rs. 3836.13 in 2015 and has experienced a growth of 6.40 percent and the per capita demand is expected to touch Rs.4762.90 by 2018, with a CAGR of 8.53 per cent between 2011-2018. On the other hand, the per capita demand for textile in terms of quantity has increased to 31.85 metres in 2016 as compared to 30.27 metres in 2015 with a growth of
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MARKET REPORT 5.23 percent during the period, and the per capita demand is expected to touch 34.58 mtrs. by 2018, with a CAGR of 4.30 per cent between 2011-2018.. The change in per capita demand indicates that an average person’s consumption of textile has increased by 1.58 metres during the period 2015-16. It is pertinent to mention that while the growth in demand was 6.91 percent in the urban area, it was 6.01 percent in the rural area during the same period.
IV. Fibre wise Demand for Textiles: The aggregate demand for cotton fibre based product was 17.22 billion metres in 2016 as compared to 16.51 billion metres in 2015 and has experienced an annual growth of 4.28 percent and aggregate demand is expected to touch 19.29 billion meters by 2018. The demand for manmade fibre based product was 23.34 billion metres in 2016 as against 21.60 billion metres in 2015 with a growth of 08.04 percent which is expected to touch 25.46 billion metres by 2018. Similarly, the aggregate demand for pure silk and woolen fibre based product was 0.34 and 0.16 billion metres respectively in 2016 as against 0.27 and 0.15 billion metres in 2015, showing a positive growth of 25.18 percent and 8 percent respectively, which is expected to touch 0.37 and 0.20 billion metres respectively by 2018.
textiles has increased by 12.66 percent as compared to the previous year. The projected aggregate demand for textiles by sector of manufacturing is estimated for Mill made/ Power loom, Knitted/Hosiery and Handloom sector to be 37.24 billion Metres, 5.56 billion Metres and 2.53 billion metres respectively for the year 2018. VI. Major Varieties demanded by the Household sector: Some important varieties which are highly demanded in the Household sector pertains to (i) personal clothing and (ii) home textiles. Among the personal clothing’s, products like shirt, trousers, frock, skirt midi, jeans (male and female), sweater, saree, kurta pyjama, leggings constitutes the major varieties in the reference period. Similarly, the inner wears like Banian, underwear, briefs, petticoat, panties, brassiere, are also contributing a major chunk of demand in the personal clothing categories. The MTC 2017 report indicates that the market size of personal clothing items was 37.87 billion metres during 2016 as against 35.52 billion metres in 2015 and has experienced a growth of 6.60 percent during the reference period. The market size of personal clothing items is expected to touch 39.64 billion metres during 2017 as against 41.66 billion metres in 2018 and experiencing a growth of 5.08 percent during this same period.
Demand for some major varieties from Personal Clothing & Home Textiles:
The survey reveals that out of the total aggregate consumption of 41.06 billion million metres (Per Capita 31.85 metres) of textiles in the year 2016, Manmade and Blended/Mixed textiles together have the largest share of 56.83 percent followed by Cotton textiles with 41.94 percent, Pure Silk textiles with 0.84 percent and Woolen textiles with 0.39 percent. Hence, the demand for manmade fibre based products has been growing and contributing significantly to the overall demand in the Household sector.
V. Demand for Textiles as per the Sector of Manufacturing: The Mill/ Powerloom sector has contributed 33.97 billion metres (82.72 percent) to the overall demand for textiles in 2016 compared to 31.85 billion metres in 2015 (82.65 percent). Similarly, the Knitted sector has contributed 4.94 billion metres (12.04 percent) to the total basket in 2016 as against 4.77 billion metres (12.39 percent) in 2015. At the same time, the handloom sector contributed 5.24 percent to the total demand for textiles in the Household sector. The aggregate demand for handloom textiles is 2.15 billion metres in 2016 as compared to 1.91 billion metres (4.96 percent) in 2015. The demand for handloom
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MARKET REPORT As regards Home textiles items, products like chaddar, bedsheets, towel and terry towels contributed significantly to this segment. In addition, the products like mosquito net, pillow cover or cushion cover, furnishing materials, blankets have also increased their presence in the product basket. Conclusion
POST EVENT REPORT
The demand for the Household sector is the major contributor to the overall growth of the sector with 53.39 percent (USD 78.28 billion) share in the total market size, which is expected to touch 54.90 percent (USD 89.88 billion) in 2018. While the export of T&C decreased at 4.66 percent and the demand in Household & non-Household sector grew by 2.82 and 1.51 percent respectively during 2016. For the year 2018, is the exports are expected to increase by 12.79 per-
cent, whereas the demand in Household & Non-Household sectors are expected to increase by 14.82 percent and 2.89 percent respectively. It is worth mentioning that the growth in Household demand for textiles has brought about additional demand for 2.53 billion metres of fabrics in 2016, which is expected to touch 4.76 billion metres in 2018 from 2015, which is pointer towards required capacity expansion in the fabrics manufacturing in the country. Similarly, the growing demand for the newly emerged products like legging etc. provides an indication at the change in preference pattern of the consumers in the country during the period. Hence, the many findings in the report may provide authentic data & insights for informed decision making by the businesses, trade & industry, researchers & policy makers etc.
TEXVALLEY, CII CONDUCTS TEXTILE FAIR ‘WEAVES’; GATHERS SEVEN THOUSAND VISITORS Textile park of India, Texvalley in Erode, along with CII has recently concluded ‘WEAVES’, a four days flagship event was successfully conducted at Erode. According to the official release by the organizers, this event was well embellished by the 204 manufacturers, more than thousand buyers and over 7 Thousand delegates from both India and abroad. As this was a premier textile fair-cum-seminar, the key textile topics were wonderfully delivered to the audience by the eminent speakers. Some of the key highlights of the event included sharing of their knowledge and experience through the interacting session, which was highly informative. Further, to honour the titans of textile industry in Tamil Nadu, the organizers had released “TITANS OF TAMILNADU TEXTILES” Coffee Table Book. The event was followed by a grand fashion show. Products of all “Textile sectors” including Greige Fabrics, Processed and Finished, Ethnic Wear and Knitted Fabric, Handloom / Khadi, Home Textiles, Accessories, Machineries and Yarn were displayed in the exhibition hall. Large number of local manufacturers, domestic brands, societies, weavers, traders, product suppliers and textile associations joined the rank of exhibitors. Products were exhibited by 204 exhibitors from Erode, Karur, Chennimalai, Madurai, Varanasi, Bangalore, West Bengal, Kerala, Coimbatore, Salem, Tiruppur and Namakkal. Exhibition hall was filled with business and friendly communication during the event. “WEAVES 2018” is believed to set a new benchmark as an
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important business expo for the buyers and manufactures of this region. According to the organizers, during the 4 days trade event, over 654 B2B meetings were taken place for connecting the local manufactures to the domestic and international buyers face to face, in the B2B pavilion which became extremely popular. This successful RBSM had a great business transaction worth over 450 crores. Moreover, 29 MOUs with educational institutions were signed in the presence of state Ministers to promote the collaboration among the rising talents from the colleges and connecting them with the regional manufactures for their design and product development requirements. Another highlight of the event was the foreign guests from USA, Srilanka, Oman, South Africa, Dubai, Myanmar, Bangladesh and Russia The project relevance was confirmed by the exhibition visitors who came from all regions-18 cities and towns of the country. 90% of them were Businessmen, Distributors, Exporters, Overseas and domestic buyers, Buying and liasoning offices, large retailers, domestic brands, Owners of companies and enterprises. Thus, the key result of ‘WEAVES 2018’ is its high participation and effective collaboration .The exhibition exceeded the expectation of its participants as they were able to effectively present their products including understanding the market demands in changing circumstances and also to find new suppliers, traders and reliable business partners.
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POST EVENT REPORT INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON “TECHNOLOGY & MACHINERY INNOVATIONS FOR TECHNICAL TEXTILES” The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) organized a one day International Conference on “Technology & Machinery Innovations for Technical Textiles” held on 19th January, 2019 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai. As one of the activities on dissemination of knowledge on technical textiles, ITTA organized conference solely focused on the latest developments on technology and machinery for technical textiles to encourage current producers to expand & diversify, new entrepreneurs to invest in this segment, generate ideas for Start-ups. This event was held parallel to the 2nd Global Textile Technology & Engineering Exhibition (GTTES 2019) organized by India ITME Society from 18-19th January, 2019. This conference was timed appropriately as just few days
back, on 15th Jan, both Ministry of Commerce & Industries and Textiles have recognised it as a Sun Rise Industry and officially notified 207 products as technical textiles and gave a special Identity. These 207 HSN Codes are spread across many chapters. This will now remove confusions in the mind of the manufacturers and give a boost to the investment, growth & ease of business in Technical Textile sector. This was possible with great efforts put in during the last couple of years by ITTA, Industry repre-
sentatives and the Ministry of Textiles. There were 11 speakers from Germany, France and India who shared their rich experience and latest information on the supply chain management, marketing challenges, innovative technology and machinery for nonwovens, woven, knitted and advanced finishes and coating technologies. The major cutting-edge topics of the conference were marketing challenges for technical textiles, Industry 4.0, Sustainable solution to post consumer textiles for automotive nonwovens, latest technology for needle felted nonwovens, innovative solutions and machinery for hygiene applications, cost effective approach to innovation in spunlace technology, warp knitting, latest technology in weaving & weaving preparatory, how to be successful with technical textiles and advance functional finishes which will help the Indian industry to fulfill their expansion plans and to meet their various challenges.
All the conference speakers, partners and service providers were acknowledged and felicitated by Dr. K. S. Sundararaman, Chairman, Mr. Amit Agarwal, Vice-Chairman, Mr. Pramod Khosla, Past Chairman ITTA and Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive Director of ITTA. Mr. Ketan Sanghvi, India ITME Society along with the above ITTA officials graced the inaugural session. The conference received over whelming response and attended by more than 200 delegates from the technical textile Industry, potential investors, number of graduate & post-graduate students and teachers from various textile and management universities and colleges
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POST EVENT REPORT
GTTES 2019 REGISTERED A 26% GROWTH IN THE JUST CONCLUDED 2ND EDITION With a commendable growth of 26%, GTTES 2019 has set a record in its 2nd Edition which is a testimony to global reach of GTTES as a trusted opportunity for business & gateway to Indian Textile market.. First time exhibitors from Sri Lanka & Slovenia and regular participants & Visitors from countries like Algeria, Azerbaijan, Belgium, China, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Spain, Turkey, UK, USA, Taiwan, Morocco, Djibouti, Kuwait, Kyrgyzstan, Senegal etc. indicate that this event has achieved its place as a reliable international business platform for both domestic and overseas companies. GTTES 2019 recorded 32,000 +footfalls from the overall textile industry during the 3 days event. With 400+ Exhibitors, 1990 Students from 35 Institutes & High level Delegations from 12 Countries across the world attended GTTES 2019 ensuring that they started the year with new customer business advantage.
forward to showcase our textile potential”
Ms. Munteha Jemal Seid, Director General of Business Diplomacy, Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Ethiopia. GTTES 2019 created a new opportunities & new prospects for the various players from textile industry & encouraged the students from the Textile Institute in multiple ways. One such outstanding benefits given to students was by Callebaut de Blicquy (CDB), a manufacturing company which gifted the equipment for eco-friendly dyeing process optimization – OptiLab of DKTE Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji.
Mr. Dave Bull, Business Development & Application Manager, Condair, UK opined, “We look forward for such international platform where we can showcase our product and expand our business ties with players from other countries & we are happy to be associated with events like GTTES”.
Mr Dave Bull, Business Development & Application Manager, Condair, UK. Mr. Gurudas Aras, Director, A.T.E., Enterprises Pvt Ltd said, “ GTTES helps us to connect with Middle & Small segment textile players globally which are niche & important for our business growth”.
Mr. Gurudas Aras, Director, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. Ms. Munteha Jemal Seid, Director General of Business Diplomacy , Ministry of Foreign Affairs said, “ Indo-Ethiopian trade is very encouraging with the increase in mechanical & technical textile. Employment is automatically generated which boosts the per capita income of the nation. GTTES 2019 is the platform which we are always looking
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Shilpa Anand, Director, Eastern Engineering with Rahul Awade, Director IPMC& DKTE with Malick Menia, Sales Head, Callebaut de Blicquy, France at GTTES 2019. Many Exhibitors bagged orders successfully & sold machines. One such happy exhibitor was Ziejiang Boretech Environmental Engineering Co. Lt. from China which concluded a deal worth 1.3 million USD with Sutlej Textiles, India. Exhibitor Shreetex Engineers Pvt. Ltd. sold it’s machines to Savitri Textiles & many more showed their satisfactory & successful participation at GTTES 2019. Quite a few product launches were witnessed by visitors panning 49 countries at GTTES 2019 held at Mumbai from 18th – 20th January 2019. To mention a few :• The launch of First-ever Indian Standard on Bullet Resistant Jacket for the protection against small arms & ammunition for the defence, paramilitary and police forces. • The product launch of Colourix Digital Printing Solutions by Orange Group to unveil dye-sublimation solution.
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POST EVENT REPORT •Digimarc Barcode demonstrated its new Digimarc Barcode for apparel application. Unitech Texmech launched a new spinning ring, • the UniK1 using new technology. At the 2nd Edition of GTTES 2019, India ITME So• ciety also launched a new product. It’s first international event ITME Africa 2020 to be held in Ethiopia in February 2020 (14th – 16th February 2020 at Millennium Hall, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia)
“ITME Society’s events are our contribution towards our country and we are proud to be a part of this outstanding textile fraternity who encourage us to host such mega International events in India”. Mr S. Hari Shankar, Chairman, India ITME Society
NEWS
Mr. S. Hari Shankar, Chairman, India ITME Society said,
UNITECH LAUNCHES NEW STEEL SPINNING RING SUPERIOR TO HARD CHROME COATED RINGS coefficient of friction as against a hard chrome coated ring, since the heat generated on the ring is lower, a necessity for compact yarn spinning.
yy UniK1 spinning ring has excellent wear resistant properties yy Ring offers low coefficient of friction as against hard chrome coated rings yy Suitable for spinning several varieties of yarns including compact yarns 42 years old Pune based manufacturer of textile spinning rings and ring travellers, Unitech Texmech Pvt. Ltd. has launched a new spinning ring, the UniK1, which has been developed through a special process of steel treatment using new technology. This treatment provides the UniK1 with excellent wear resistant properties, low coefficient of friction and is also suitable for spinning several varieties of yarns. Unitech Texmech has used its vast experience of 42 years to study all aspects of steel treatment and their wearability to develop the new spinning ring, due to which, the properties on the steel surface of the ring are much superior to hard chrome coated rings. The UniK1 is suitable to spin fine and super fine counts, compact yarns, dyed yarns as well as highly abrasive fibre yarns such as acrylic, polypropylene, Kevlar, linen, bamboo, polyester, mélange, Modal, etc. It is also suitable for spinning coarse and high strength denim yarns, core yarns and new generation of fibres. The new spinning ring has excellent wear resistant properties, since it is a very hard and tough ring as compared to the hard chrome coated ring. The ring also offers low
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The ring undergoes a specialised surface treatment, which imparts upon the ring, high fatigue strength, resulting in consistent performance. The smooth and lubricating flange surface enables the use of normal grade travellers even at very high speeds. Additionally there is no running in required along with no upper speed limit. “We used our extensive knowledge of manufacturing spinning rings to develop and launch the UniK1. We observed a significant shift in the customer requirements where the focus is on higher speeds, performance, productivity and economy of yarn spinning,” Mr Makarand Bapat, Managing Director at Unitech Texmech Pvt. Ltd. said. “This prompted us to develop the new spinning ring, which when run under actual spinning mill conditions, has shown the UNIK1 to be at par with any imported spinning ring and at the same time is also a truly ‘Made-inIndia’ product”, Mr Bapat added. Unitech Texmech has been exporting its technologies to several countries since 1985, which include Japan, Turkey, Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, Taiwan, Bangladesh, South America, etc. About Unitech Texmech Pvt Ltd: Set up in 1976, Unitech Texmech is a Pune based ISO 9001 accredited and diversified company. Unitech is engaged in the design, development and manufacture of precision components and systems for the textiles, engineering and automobile sectors. Since inception, Unitech has been able to garner a significant market share of spinning rings and ring travellers in India and other countries mainly due to the durability and longer life offered by these products.
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January 2019
PRODUCT FOCUS / RIETER J 26 HAS A SIGNIFICANT ADVANTAGE AIR-JET QUALITY YARNS FOR HIGH-QUALITY TERRY TOWELS Thanks to the strong and stable production of combed cotton yarns, a new segment has opened up in China for the air-jet spinning machine J 26, as high-quality terry towels can be produced with this yarn, for example. That is not the only advantage, however. For mills that want to produce air-jet cotton yarns, Rieter has the appropriate solution: the optimized spinning system and the technical and technological expertise. The mills benefit from low production costs and a quality of yarn significantly superior to that of competitors. Cost and quality advantage in production One of the largest Chinese mills carried out a comparison of the air-jet spinning machine J 26 with a competitor product over a period of six months. The J 26 convinced in a number of criteria. The yarns spun on the J 26 at a higher production speed showed considerably better values for imperfections, evenness and strength (Fig. 1). The yarn hairiness was ideal for a soft touch with a low pilling tendency. The significantly lower fiber loss with the J 26 allows the mill an excellent raw material yield and this achieve annual cost savings of around 17 tons of cotton per air-jet spinning machine (basis of calculation: J 26 with 120 spinning units, yarn count Ne 32, delivery speed 420 m/min). From the idea to the product
the terry towels and combined with carded ring yarns in the ground warp and weft, also produced by the customer (Fig. 2). 20 Rieter towels were given out to test persons to assess quality. Their feedback was univocal. Compared to the towels they currently used, they assessed the appearance and feel of the Com4®jet towels as Excellent. Water was absorbed quickly; the formation of lint and fluffing were minimal. The independent Swiss test laboratory SGS was contacted for an neutral assessment. In addition to the Rieter towel, an extremely high-quality towel from the internationally renowned Christy brand was also provided to obtain reference data. From a purely visual perspective, both towels were comparable (Fig. 3).
The test results showed that the Rieter towel with air-jet
In China a middle class with high purchasing power emerged, that continues to grow. This lucrative consumer group is prepared to spend more money on high-quality products. Statistics confirm a strong growth in products in the higher price bracket. Based on the properties of the Com4®jet yarn, the yarn of the J 26, an idea emerged of creating terry towels that meet the following criteria: • No pilling, even after a number of washing cycles • Brilliant colors throughout the entire lifetime • Quick absorption of moisture from the body • No fluffing, no loss of fibers during washing The Rieter Com4®jet yarn was used in the pile to produce
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cotton yarn in the pile performed very well (Fig. 4). No fibers were lost – in other words: there was no fluffing. The Rieter towel kept its volume for a long time, as the pile remained upright and also retained its softness. The tensile strength and therefore the wear resistance were also excellent. The absorbency was almost at the level of the reference product and therefore corresponded to a
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PRODUCT FOCUS / RIETER very high level within the standard. ParticuÂlarly interesting were the raw material costs. The yarn of the Rieter towels was spun from medium-staple cotton. This saves around 40% on raw material costs compared to the longstaple cotton used in the Christy towel. This study has shown that the Rieter air-jet spinning technology produces cotton yarns of an very high quality. Used correctly, the air-jet yarns can play to their strengths. The results are very attractive end products. In addition, a mill saves considerable raw material costs.
The interest in air-jet cotton yarns is growing. An increasing number of spinning mills and downstream users are developing products and benefit from the modern J 26 air-jet spinning technology and its special yarn properties.
NEWS
CHILD LABOUR IN HAND MADE CARPETS FROM INDIA NO LONGER A BIG PROBLEM India is the biggest exporter and producer of handmade carpets. In the international market which is characterized by enormous competition the most important buyers are the United States, far ahead of the European Union. The competitive position of the Indian suppliers is negatively influenced by the world wide critics of the production conditions-in addition to the increasing number of producer countries-by the non government organizations and similar institutions. The critics have been dominated since many years by the alleged use child labour in a big way: this is followed by the critical remarks against utilization of health hazardous and by not environmental friendly substances. These arguments have been repeated in a TV film of the program PlusMinus of the ARD in October 2018.The shown film has been made in the region of Agra. Because of the massive accusations the Indian Government decided to control the working conditions and the consequences of the production for the environment in this region. The analysis has been carried out by the national commission for the protection of the child rights. UNICEF and the regional and federal state level organizations for the protection of children and safeguarding their education and health conditions intensively participated. Special support for the conception of the control work and its implementation came from the Carpet Export Promotion Council (CEPC) and from Indo-German Export Promotion Program (IGEP/RUGMARK) which has been working in the field of controlling child labour for 25 years. The results of analysis have been presented on the opening day of the carpet fair Domotex on 11.January 2019 in Hannover. The Indian Consul General Mr. Madan Lal Raiger, Hamburg, officially released the study. He emphasized in the same way as other speakers from the
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side of the Indian exporters that criticism of child labour in the carpet industry is very strongly exaggerated. The Indian Government has improved the necessary legal framework comprehensively and has given the responsible institutions the respective competences. Activities for controlling the government bodies and the private sector would be regularly carried out and strictly controlled. The same can be said for the environmental sector especially with regard to the utilization of harmful chemicals. Controls by neutral organizations for auditing and certification as Kaleen and Rugmark in addition take care for the effect that child labour and environmental damages could be considerably reduced. This positive development shows clearly the considerable increase of social and environmental responsibility of the government and the private companies. This is not only for the benefit of the workers, the entrepreneurs and the local populations, but especially also to the advantage of foreign buyers and importers. They can buy now and in future always carpets from India without any bad feelings. The Chairman Carpet Export Promotion Council (CEPC), Mahavir Sharma, reiterated the fact that India is committed to all social and environmental compliances and has strict child labour laws. He further said that the CEPC in its mandatory Code of conduct for its members has all these already outlined and the member in addition to strict legal action can also be debarred from its membership of the CEPC and denied all benefits as a member. This report has strengthened our resolve to fight child labour issues and also show cases our hard work of the last 25 years and we intend to take strict legal action against organizations or agencies or film producers who create this false, fictional, unreasonable, biased and malicious propaganda for self-gain and in bargain tarnish the image of the entire industry and the country as a whole.
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January 2019
PRODUCT FOCUS
LUWA TEXPAC COMPACT PLANT SYSTEM The new centralized air handling system for the textile industry: space-saving, efficient, economical.
Luwa TexPac centralized air handling system – The solution which is compact, economically efficient and ready for connection. The Luwa TexPac Plant System in modular design is preferred solution for use in the textile and other comparable industries to provide air handling, i.e. pre-filtration, fine filtration and air conditioning. The Luwa TexPac is textile air engineering’s response to the rapid development in textile machinery design towards high productivity, automation, minimum down times, good cost-effectiveness ratios and the ability to convert production facilities quickly to suit changing market conditions.
Flexibility of application+ Luwa centralized air handling units are reusable, that is, they can be completely dismantled and then reassembled at a new location. Their modular design allows subsequent adjustments in application and performance, since further capacity can be installed parallel to the existing unit and/or additional functional units can be attached or even inserted. Maximum independence of building is also ensured, and this is particularly advantageous when the units are installed during on-going production – reduced loss of production during the change-over – with the additional effect of facilitating initial operation since the components are shielded by the housing from any negative structural influences.
Made-to-measure solutions As a result of the modular design of the more than 20 functional modules, it is possible to construct centralized air handling systems which are as compact as possible in shape and are individually selected according to the capacity required and the space available. These can be arranged in-line, out-of-line, superimposed, L-shaped, U-shaped or in other arrangements. The design of the functional units is strictly governed by the basic requirements and supplemented by standardized complementary modifications or accessories when there are additional or increased demands in respect of protective coatings, thermal insulation, soundproofing, vibration damping, lighting, safety devices, monitoring, cabling etc. It is therefore possible to individually compose ready-made air handling systems which reduce expenditure in cost and
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project engineering effort, especially in the areas of civil construction and building design, and provide the necessary transparency so that costs can be ascertained more precisely.
Ease of maintenance/ operational reliability The Luwa TexPac functional units are designed for continuous operations, trouble-free as far as possible and extending to 8500 operational hours per year, as is required by the textile industry of today. We assume here that the Luwa Multi Cell V filter (MCV) is used to achieve the necessary improvement in sealing quality, filtration efficiency and service life and thus keep the plant clean. Further sources of plant contamination such as dusty outside air and untreated and hard water should also be controlled at the point of origin, and we recommend a water treatment plant adapted to local conditions and appropriate filtration of the outside air. A further important feature is the extreme ease of maintenance ensured by the design of the Luwa Air Washer Unit AW.
Design features The self-contained housing structure is extremely easy to assemble and essentially consists of 2 mm thick galvanized modular steel panels with double turns along the sides and single turns along the ends. Depending on the pressure level these are screwed in directly or reinforced by connecting sections inserted at the sides. The use of 2 mm thick galvanized modular steel panels rather than the usually applied sandwich construction is preferably in regard to noise attenuation and service life. The modular panels in the washer area are made of glass-fibre reinforced synthetic material. The remaining structural elements and components are surface treated, some being galvanized and some powder coated, and those in the washer area are made of FRP materials or stainless steel. This construction ensures that the equipment retains its longevity and value to a high degree.
odular design concept The Luwa TexPac units are based on a modular unit construction concept of standardized Luwa equipment, components and installation elements for services. When built up from the basic units, modular system is specifically intended to allow multiple use of the individual elements in an economical way and also simplification and increased facility in concept definition. The Luwa Rotary Pre-Filter Unit RPF is used for preliminary cleaning of return air streams heavily charged with waste. The Luwa Rotary Pre-Filter Unit RPF consists of a rotating pre-filtration disc with rotational speed, mesh size and air flow rate selected according to application.
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PRODUCT FOCUS The waste collected on the filter screen is removed by suction using a fixed, radially mounted nozzle and conveyed to a disposal plant.
The 5 most important functional units of Luwa TexPac The Luwa Mixed Air Chamber Unit MC is used to - divide the return air into an exhaust and a recirculated air stream, and to mix the recirculated air stream with the outside air stream
The Luwa Centrifugal Fan Units are used to convey return air. The Luwa Centrifugal Fan Units are constructed from standardized housing elements and components such as a Centrifugal fan with blades, black-stop, deflector, collar, safety guard and a height-adjustable bracket with or without vibrations attenuator, depending on the required air flowrates, pressure gain and function. If it is necessary for the air flow rate to be varied during operation, frequency converters or variable speed disc drives can be used for continuous adjustment of the fan speed
- heat the recirculated air stream as necessary by means of an air heater. The Luwa Mixed Air Chamber Unit MC is individually assembled, depending on the required air flow rates and damper arrangements (top, bottom, side), from standardized housing elements and components such as air control dampers and air heaters to produce the most compact shape possible
The Luwa Electric Panel EP is built in accordance with IEC standards and is dust-proof. It contains the complete electric equipment, such as main switches, indicator lamps, control switches and relays, and is wired completely on terminals
The new MultiCell Filter MCV is build up on these three objectives:- Simple static and slim filter wall in V-Shape for maximum filtration surface area - Simplified 2-axis suction robot with only two gear motors - Larger filter surface area for reduced power consumption
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PRODUCT FOCUS
The MultiCell filter is built up as a filter wall in air conditioning stations for the filtration of return air which is contaminated with dust and fibers. The special design with bottom entry filter cells prevents clogging of the filter with fibrous material. yy Only 1/3 space required compared to rotary filter yy Shorter A/C stations – smaller service bay yy Increased filter surface area for energy saving yy Simple and sturdy 2-axis movement drive of suction nozzle yy Fast and easy change of filter medium
Typical Drawing of TexPac Plant
NEWS
The modular structure of the Luwa TexPac centralized air handling unit for automatic filtration and variable humidification with draw-thru air washer is convenient for installation on various levels of a building. Air flow rate may vary from 25,000 m3/h to 500,000 m3/h
Japan funds sericulture expansion in Philippines. Japan signed a grant contract early this month in Manila with the Organisation for Industrial, Spiritual and Cultural Advancement International (OISCA), a Japanese non-governmental organisation (NGO) working in the Philippines to spread sericulture beyond the Negros Island, where OISCA has been supporting silk rearing for more than 20 years. Filipinos generally rely on imports for some of its raw silk materials, including those used for traditional costumes such as the Barong Tagalog. The Philippine Government aims to achieve the domestic production of all silk
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Convincing advantages of TexPac yy No brickwork chambers required since the construction is based on a modular system yy High degree of freedom in concept design yy Short assembly times yy Can be removed, dismantled and re-used yy The Compact design yy Minimal space requirement yy Low power requirement yy No dirt deposits on floors Extreme ease of maintenance and operation due to yy Use of stored-program control system, appropriate instrument indicators and malfunction signaling yy External visual checking yy Easy and rapid exchange of filter media yy Easy replacement of soiled droplet eliminator units and nozzle connections yy High degree of operational reliability as a result of study construction, designed for extended troublefree operation yy Design changes can be made with minimal need to change the equipment.
threads used in the country, making the nationwide deployment of support for sericulture together with OISCA an essential project to achieve this goal, according to a release from the Embassy of Japan in the Philippines. In this project, leadership development seminars will be organised in three provinces—Benguet, Aklan, and Misamis Oriental—to spread sericulture operations. Silk farmers will also receive short-term training and learn about mulberry field maintenance. The aim is to raise the production of cocoon and high quality raw silk. The Grant Assistance for Japanese NGO Projects, a small-grant funding program of Japan’s Official Development Assistance (ODA), has allocated $ 426,168 for this venture.
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ASSOCIATION UPDATE AEPC To Focus On Identifying Emerging Markets For Exporters Apparel Export Promotion Council, the body that works for promoting the Indian textile exports is planning to increase the the reach out for exporters in the emerging markets. Another key plan of the forum is cluster development. AEPC has identified 20 categories within the industry and widen the basket and more capabilities are to be included where there is a global demand. In an exclusive chat with Textile Value Chain, Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor, Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), said, “ The apparel sector has been stagnating around 17US$ for the last few years, while our competitors’ like Bangladesh and Vietnam have shown double digit growth. The main reason for this difference in the growth trajectory has been cost competitiveness, or rather the lack of it, in the case of India.” Citing few reasons for cost disadvantage, according to her has been beyond India’s control –like the lower wage structure in Bangladesh or preferential access in important western markets. However, according to her, the internal efficiency of production and productivity of workers is under the control of India. “One reason for lower efficiency are smaller scales of operation. In India, the scales of operation are much small than most of our competing countries. This is one area where we need to work seriously and look at ways to incentivise investment and expansion through long term policies. Most of the present investment policies have shorter windows and do not take into account the gestation period and longer window needed for investment decisions to be made and implemented.”, Chandrima said.
and availing the various policy benefit are available to the sector like the apparel package, ROSL, PMPRY, skill programmes and more. The help desk at AEPC takes up all GST concerns and refund issues. ii) The Council had initiated a cluster development programme to focus on the supply side concerns of the industry. Through studies and gap assessment the Council has identified regions where there is potential of export enhancementthrough various interventions. iii) The Council has developed a good practice manual by bench marking global best practices that lead to better productivity, better work place relation , lower attrition , better health and safety and various other parameters that lead to better production as also better positioning of India as a sourcing destination. iv) The Council has been encouraging start up in the sector. A start up kit has been developed for preliminary information. The Council has also been conducting product development workshop to encouraging exporter to move into higher value products. Asked if the activities of the Government of India in terms of promoting the textile industry is not on par to the Governments in Sri Lanka and Bangladesh, through tax subsidiaries and promotional activities, Chandrima said, she does not feel it is entirely true. “The apparel package announced in 2016, was a path breaking initiative of the Government to strengthen the sector. The Government has been undertaking several initiatives to increase ease of doing business and reduce cost of doing business. In fact, State Governments have also lend to this process through the various state apparel packages.” , she said.
The second important reason according to her is the lower productivity of the workers which leads to higher net wage cost. Chandrika also says that up-skilling and wide spread productivity improvement programmes need to be undertaken to address this issue. Accepting the fact that Bangladesh and Vietnam has been growing consistently for the last 5 years and more, she also predicts the trend is expected to continue. She also says this is because of their better market access in to US and EU and policy focus on this sector aimed at reduced cost of doing business.
Speaking on the key activities, Chandrima said, AEPC has been playing a facilitator role through the following:i) Partnering with Government in spreading awareness as also facilitating exporters in understanding
CHANDRIMA CHATTERJEE ADVISOR
APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL (AEPC)
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January 2019
WEAVING UPDATE
OPTIMIZATION OF RELATIVE HUMIDITY (RH %) IN LOOM SHED Abstract The atmospheric condition with respect to temperature and humidity play very important role in the manufacturing process of textile fabric. The properties like dimensions, weight, tensile strength, elastic recovery, rigidity etc. of all textile material whether natural or synthetic are influenced by moisture regain. Among of which the yarn strength and elongation value at certain moisture content will be directly influenced the warp breakage rate in loom shed. This study will help to find out and set the standard atmospheric conditions in the weaving department to achieve the higher production rate. Trials are conducted by maintaining different RH % values in the weaving department. Impact of RH% in terms of end breakage was examined during weaving.
Keywords –Moisture content, elastic recovery, tensile strength Introduction Relative Humidity (RH %) is defined as the ratio of the actual vapor pressure to the standard vapor pressure at the same temperature expressed as percentage. The moisture holding capacity of air increases dramatically with the air temperature. In practice RH indicates the moisture level of the air compared to the air’s moisture holding capacity. The air movement in the form of infiltration and exhilaration from the building influences the relationship between temperature and relative humidity. Weaving operations cause the friction of the yarns; particularly warp yarns, with each other as well as with the metallic parts of the machines. These actions originate, especially in case of staple fiber yarns, the detaching of parts of fibers from the body of the yarn, with consequent formation of static electricity, sticking yarns, difficult shedding and difficult weft colors selection, but also fiber fly accumulation on all most delicate units as braking elements, weft control devices and even the grippers. It is therefore essential that the air conditioning system is designed in a way as to ensure an efficient control of temperature and humidity, differentiated for weaving preparation and weaving departments. Dust is removed from the machines by overhead travelling cleaners; moreover the air in the working rooms is exhausted under the machines continuously or intermittently. The weaving operation contributes by far the largest proportion to the cost of conversion of yarns into fabrics. The simplest measure of productivity in weaving is the length of fabric produced per unit time. The production of fabric on weaving machines is depending on
January 2019
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the loom speed and the efficiency. The loom efficiency mainly influenced by the warp breakage rate. The warp breaks during weaving are increases by, preparatory deficiency, incorrect loom, Defective loom parts and accessories, insufficient humidity and temperature around loom sphere. Quality of yarn is the primary source influencing end breaks. Yarn qualities which influence the breakage of yarn during weaving are its strength and elongation. The amount of moisture that the atmosphere can hold increases with its temperature so that warmer air can hold more water than cold air. The converse of this is that when air containing moisture is cooled, a temperature is reached at which the air becomes saturated. At this point moisture will condense out from the atmosphere as a liquid: this temperature is known as the dew point. When considering the effects of atmospheric moisture on textile materials the important quantity is not how much moisture the air already holds, but how much more it is capable of holding. This factor governs whether fibers will lose moisture to or gain moisture from the atmosphere. The capacity of the atmosphere to hold further moisture is calculated by taking the maximum possible atmospheric moisture content at a particular temperature and working out what percentage of it has already been taken up. This quantity is known as the relative humidity (RH) of the atmosphere and it can be defined in two ways. In terms of the mass of water vapor in the atmosphere: R.H % can be determined as follows (Mass of water in given volume of air / Mass of water vapor required to saturated this volume at same temp. ) x 100 Alternative it can also be defined as the ratio of the actual vapor pressure to the saturated vapor pressure at the same temperature expressed as a percentage. RH % = (Actual vapor pressure / Saturated vapor pressure) X 100 The levels of relative humidity & temperature that have been found to be satisfactory under working condition in Indian mills are summarized in table: Relative humidity and temperature in loom shed: Count
RH%
Coarse and Me- 85 % ± 2% dium count
Temperature 260C ± 20C
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WEAVING UPDATE Technical Hypothesis Moisture regain and moisture content: The amount of moisture in a sample can be expressed as either regain or moisture content. Regain is the weight of water in a material expressed as a percentage of the oven dry weight:
ture content in the yarn and similarly increase in yarn strength.
Trial 1:• By maintaining the RH 73.5% avg. loom efficiency was found :B
C
Efficiency 70%
68%
72%
Avg. Eff. 70%
Where, D is the dry weight and W is the weight of absorbed water.
Warp Breaks
31
16
Total breaks 67
Moisture content is the weight of water expressed as a percentage of the total weight
Trial 2:-
Moisture Regain = 100 x W % / D
Moisture content = 100 x W % / D + W
Shift
Shift
Humidity is the amount of moisture in the air can hold before it rains. Moisture refers to presence of liquid, especially water. Moisture has important effects on the physical properties of textile material particularly tensile properties and other property descriptions normalized for weight. The increase in strength with increased moisture content is attributed to the release of internal stresses as hydrogen-bonding is weakened and to the ability of the structure to be pulled into a more oriented form.
Experimental Work The trials were conducted for the following fabric sort Warp & Weft Count
60 Ne
Ends per inch
178
Picks per inch
92
Weave
Plain
Fabric width
120 inches
A
C
Efficiency 75%
73%
77%
Avg. effn 75%
Break /2 hr.
12
11
Total breaks = 41
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Trial 3:By maintaining the RH 80.2% avg. loom efficiency was found:A
B
C
Efficiency 76%
77%
79%
Avg.effn =77.3%
Break /2 hr.
12
11
Total breaks =48
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Results and Discussion Following are the results obtained from the data collected:By maintaining the Relative Humidity at 73.5% average loom shed efficiency was found as Trial 1 shows the loom efficiency at 73.5 % Relative humidity. Meanwhile lower humidity in loom sphere is directly affecting the loom performance due to increase in warp breakage rate which is found up to 20cmpx
Trials were conducted for the above fabric sorts at following three different RH % values. Trial
I
II
III
RH% at loom Sphere
77.3%
73.5%
80.2%
a) RH % was continuously observed at the interval of two hour to analyze the relative impact on loom performance. b) Warp breakages were recorded at the end of each shift. c) At each level of RH% sized yarn strength is measured to find the effect of humidity in terms of increase in mois-
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B
Shift
A moisture content of 8-10% should be maintained in the sized cotton yarns. With excessive drying the size film becomes brittle and harsh. Very high moisture content is also undesirable. Correct amount of moisture for cotton helps to reduction of breakage rate at loom shed.
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• By maintaining the RH 77.3% avg. loom efficiency was found :-
Role of Moisture:
Effect of Moisture on Yarn Quality
A
Trail 2 shows the loom efficiency at 77.3 % Relative humidity. Increase in relative humidity by 4 % shows the slight increase in efficiency. This is due to the increase in moisture content in the yarn and cause the increase in yarn strength which leads to withstand the stress during weaving. Trial 3 shows the loom efficiency at 80.2 % Relative humidity. At this stage warp breakage rate is significantly reduced up to 4cmpx, mean at this level of RH % yarn strength is increased up to significant value. Average Loom efficiency at 73.5%, 77.3 % and 80.2 % relative humidity.
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January 2019
WEAVING UPDATE Relative Humidity
77.3%
73.5%
80.2%
Average Loom Efficiency
70%
75%
77.3%
Following graph shows average loom efficiency at different range of RH%
that indicate that, relative humidity (RH%) 80.2 is found beneficial to improve the loom efficiency and helps to reduce the warp breakages up to significant level.
References 1. Mishra S.P., Fiber Science and Technology. 2. B P Saville, Physical testing of textiles. 3. Talukdar M.K., Ajgaonkar D.B., Weaving machines, mechanisms, & management. 4. Paliwal M.C., Kimothi P.D., Process Control In Weaving, ATIRA. 5. Sabit Adanur, Handbook of Weaving, CRC Press, Page No. 110.
Graph - Average Loom efficiency The above graph represents that the Average Loom efficiency at 73.5%, 77.3 % and 80.2 % relative humidity. Then observe 80.2 RH% is better relative humidity in loom shed. Because average loom efficiency was increase 7%.
Conclusion
6. S.P. Patel, Humidification in Textile Mills, Textile Association India. 7. B.Purushotham, Humidification and Ventilation Management in Textile Industry, Wood head Publishing India.
MR. SAGAR TAWADE, SR. SUPERVISOR Pramukh Cotex, Textile Park, Shirpur
From the above experimental study it has been concluded that an increase in the relative humidity leads to increase loom efficiency, due to significant reduce in the warp breakages. The present study concludes that moisture level in the yarn directly affects the efficiency of loom. The production efficiency is basically depending on the weft and warp breakage rates and the time taken to restore and restart the loom. The study results shows
Prof.Tushar Patil, Prof.Tushar Shinde Assistant Professor – Centre For Textile Functions, MPSME, NMIMS, Shirpur,
Dr. P. P. Raichurkar Associate Dean CTF, MSTME, NMIMS, Shirpur
NEWS LANKAN APPAREL SECTOR AIMS $8 BN EXPORT EARNINGS BY 2025. Sri Lanka’s apparel sector surpassed $5 billion in export earnings in 2018 and targets $8 billion by 2025. The earnings from export of apparel falling under Harmonised System (HS) chapters 61, 62 and 63 amounted to $5,050 million in 2018, registering an increase of 4.79 per cent compared to $4819 million in 2017, according to the Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF). Developed by the World Customs Organisation (WCO), HS is a multipurpose international goods nomenclature used as the basis for customs tariffs and for the compilation international trade statistics all over the world. The United States and
January 2019
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the European Union (EU) continued to be the two largest buyers of Sri Lankan garments, in both volume and value terms, a top financial daily in the country reported citing a JAAF statement. The export turnover target of $8 billion by 2025 requires an annual growth of 6 per cent, a very ambitious target and therefore market access programs through regional, multilateral, or bilateral trade arrangements are extremely important, particularly with emerging markets such as India, China and Brazil, the statement added.
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NEWS CHINA VISCOSE GROUP HOLDS ENVIRONMENTAL TALKS of Viscose (CV) group in the run up to the release of its first ever sustainability report. Facilitated by Textile Exchange, speakers included the WWF, Esprit, The Forest Trust, and the German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, as the Chinese industry looks to improve the traceability of raw materials and clean up its viscose manufacturing ahead of an anticipated boost in production capacities.
BEIJING – Around 120 delegates from the world of forestry and viscose textile production descended on China to hear about progress from the Sustainable Development
“Our members have already undertaken several initiatives to ensure they are on track to meet the requirements of the roadmap,” Zhang Zixin, Secretary General of CV told Ecotextile News, “and to increase the transparency of the industry, we will release our first sustainability report in March 2019 which will summarise these efforts.”
UNIFI PRESENTS NEW SUSTAINABLE FIBERS THAT ARE MADE FROM RECYCLABLE MATERIAL three new product offerings at Outdoor Retailer Snow Show 2019. Focused on consumer demands for recycled products, Unifi is introducing TruFlexx™ sustainable, engineered stretch fiber made with REPREVE®, TruClean™ chemical-free anti-static fiber, and REPREVE nylon staple fiber.
The New Sustainable Fibers include TruFlexx™ stretch fiber, TruClean™ anti-static fiber and REPREVE nylon staple fiber. The TruFlexx stretch fiber is made from 100% polyester for stretching and recovery applications. The static fiber inhibits static and cling, repels pet hair and lint and is suitable for apparel, pet bedding, upholstery, curtains and automotive whereas the REPREVE nylon staple fiber helps in improving strength of fabrics, natural heather effect or cooling effect. Unifi Introduces New Sustainable Offerings at 2019 Outdoor Retailer Snow Show Market demands continue to drive more sustainable performance options Continuing its commitment to sustainable innovation, Unifi, Inc. (NYSE: UFI), global textile solutions provider and one of the world’s leading innovators in manufacturing synthetic and recycled performance fibers, will launch
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“Our customers continue to ask for fibers and technologies that will not only help them meet their sustainability goals, but also provide superior performance,” said Jay Hertwig, group vice president of global branded sales for Unifi. “At Unifi, we continue to develop solutions that help our customers make a difference.” TruFlexx engineered stretch fiber is a breakthrough 100% polyester, sustainable stretch option that eliminates the need for spandex. When spandex is knit into a fabric, it greatly limits recyclability of the fabric after its useful life. TruFlexx engineered stretch can replace spandex in the 5-10% content range for comfort-stretch knits, creating the possibility of a 100% closed-loop recyclable polyester fabric. It is engineered for stretch and recovery, providing shape retention with less compression while also improving moisture management. Static is a significant issue for apparel and home textiles, as it makes black and white jeans look dirty and faded, and creates a cleaning problem for pet hair. TruClean anti-static fiber is a chemical-free option and permanently inhibits static and cling, repelling pet hair, lint and other
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January 2019
NEWS small particles to keep fabrics looking newer. TruClean anti-static is a sustainable option available with REPREVE recycled fiber, and applications include apparel, pet bedding, upholstery, curtains and automotive. Unifi is also launching REPREVE nylon staple fiber, a new, more eco-friendly option for spun yarns. REPREVE recycled nylon staple fiber can be used to improve the hand feel and strength of fabrics, add a natural heather effect, or a cooling effect. Nylon is lightweight, durable, moisture wicking, and resists pilling and abrasion; desirable characteristics that can easily be blended into a more sustainable yarn using REPREVE Nylon staple fiber. “We believe that true innovation starts in the fiber, and our goal is to provide even more options to inspire our customers to innovate at the fiber level to achieve sustainable, high-performing products,” said Richard Gerstein, Unifi’s executive vice president of global branded premium value-added products and chief marketing and innovation officer. “True innovation happens when we collaborate with our brand and textile partners to create unique performance technologies that are embedded in the fiber, and we are excited to share these exciting new products at Outdoor Retailer Snow Show.” For more information, please visit Unifi at booth #54067UL at the Outdoor Retailer Snow Show, being held Jan. 30-Feb. 1, 2019, at the Colorado Convention Center in Denver, CO.
About Unifi: Unifi, Inc. (NYSE: UFI) is a global textile solutions provider and one of the world’s leading innovators in manufac-
January 2019
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turing synthetic and recycled performance fibers. The Company’s proprietary PROFIBER™ technologies offer increased performance, comfort and style advantages, enabling customers to develop products that perform, look and feel better. Through REPREVE®, one of Unifi’s proprietary technologies and the global leader in branded recycled performance fibers, Unifi has transformed more than 13 billion plastic bottles into recycled fiber for new apparel, footwear, home goods and other consumer products. Unifi continually innovates technologies to meet consumer needs in moisture management, thermal regulation, antimicrobial, UV protection, stretch, water resistance and enhanced softness. Unifi collaborates with many of the world’s most influential brands in the sports apparel, fashion, home, automotive and other industries. For news updates from Unifi, visit https://unifi.com/news or follow Unifi on Twitter @UnifiSolutions.
About REPREVE®: Made by Unifi, Inc. (NYSE: UFI), REPREVE® is the global leader in branded recycled performance fibers, transforming more than 13 billion plastic bottles into recycled fiber for new clothing, shoes, home goods and other consumer products. REPREVE is the earth-friendly solution to making consumers’ favorite brands more environmentally responsible. Found in products from many of the world’s leading brands, REPREVE fibers can also be enhanced with Unifi’s proprietary technologies for increased performance and comfort. For more information about REPREVE, visit www.repreve.com, and connect with REPREVE on Facebook, Twitterand Instagram. REPREVE® is a trademark of Unifi, Inc.
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SHOW CALENDAR
FEBRUARY 2019
16-18
YIWUTEX Zhejiang / China www.zhejiangtextile.com
3-5
SURTEX 2019 New York/USA https://www.surtex.com
7
International Textile Conference Hotel The Lalit/Mumbai http://textileassociationindia.com/
3-5 CINE Shanghai/ China www.cine-shanghai.com
11-14
AVANTEX PARIS 2019 Paris/France https://avantex-paris.fr.messefrankfurt.com /paris/en.html
6-8
15-16
VASTRA 2019 Mumbai / India https://www.facebook.com/vjtivastra
20-22
ASIA APPAREL EXPO BERLIN – 2019 Berlin/Germany https://www.asiaapparelexpo.com
26-28
IGATEXPAKISTAN Karachi/Pakistan www.igatex.pk
28-2 March
YARN FAIR Istanbul / Turkey www.iplikfuari.com
MARCH 2019 1-4 KNIT TECH 2019 Tirupur/ India www.hitechtradefairs.com 8-9
F&A 2019 Bangalore/ India http://www.fnashow.in/
12-14
Yarn Expo 2019 Shanghai/China https://yarn-expo-spring.hk.messefrankfurt.com/ shanghai/en.html
26-28
Textile Asia Karachi / Pakistan www.textileasia.com.pk
28-31 Morocco International Machinery Fair 2019 OFEC, Casablance /Morocco www.moroccomachinery.com
APRIL 2019
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MAY 2019
4-6
Fibers and Yarns Mumbai/ India www.fibersnyarns.com
4-6
INTERTEX TUNISIA Tunisia / Africa www.bridgexpo.com/intertex-tunisia-2019
25-27
FABTEX Mumbai/ India www.fabtexexpo.in
JUNE 2019
20-26
NON WOVEN TECH ASIA 2019 Delhi / INDIA www.nonwoventechasia.com ITMA 2019 Barcelona, Spain www.itma.com
JULY 2019 15-17
YARNEX 2019 New Delhi/ India http://delhi.yarnex.in/
15-17
F&A SHOW New Delhi/ India http://www.fnashow.in/
AUGUST 2019 3-5
Yarn Expo 2019 Surat/India www.yarnexpo.sgcci.in
9-12
TEXFAIR 2019 Coimbatore/ India texfair@simamills.org
SEPTEMBER 2019 12-14
YARNEX Tirupur/ India http://yarnex.in
20-22
Textile Asia Lahor / Pakistan www.textileasia.com.pk
OCTOBER 2019 22-24
FILTECH Cologne/Germany www.filtech.de
NOVEMBER 2019 25-28
SHANGHAITEX 2019 Shanghai / China www.shanghaitex.cn
DECEMBER 2019 5-8 ITMACH INDIA Gandhinagar / India www.itmach.com 5-8
ITES Gandhinagar / India www.itsexhibition.com
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January 2019
INTERVIEW
‘Dyecol’ To Reach 650 Customers In India
PUNIT MAKHARIA,MD Shree Pushkar Chemicals and Fertilisers has been a Dyes Intermediate provider for over two decades now, and recently ventured into production of Reactive Dyes. According to the company, the journey of moving up the value chain and becoming a dye’s manufacturer has been overwhelming, the reception from the market has been phenomenal. The industry leader is all set to rock the market with their our own brand and sell through distributors nationally and internationally. The recent top-management appointments from the organization included Dr N.N. Mahapatra, a renowned Technocrat and a well-known figure in the Textile Industry.Punit Makahria, MD of the company speaks on how aggressively they are setting up office in key market areas and building a technical and service team to cater to demands of textile houses. Edited excerpts.
What is this product all about and what are the advantages for a unit by using your new product? Shree Pushkar Chemicals and Fertilisers is one of the leading reactive dyes manufacturer who believes in Sustainability, moving forward with this belief we launched our own new brand known as ‘Dyecol’, this new range of
January 2019
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reactive dyes are said to use less water and energy, and decrease processing skills in comparison to conventional dyes, in a bid to tackle environmental and sustainability issues of the textile wet processing industry. The dyes are in highly concentrated and crude form, it is also salt free reactive dyes. It is called Pure Dyes. If you dye Light Medium to Dark shades using our dyes you must use less dyes which means less salt, less soda and less washing and soaping process required. It will result in less effluent load. The new technology has replaced the outdated Vinyl Sulphone dyes and ME (Bifunctional Dyes). It is known as Super Strength Reactive Dyes or ‘Dyecol SS Reactive Dyes.’ DYECOL SS REACTIVE DYES are used for Cotton Fibre and Yarn Dyeing, Knitted and Woven Fabrics Dyeing. It is widely accepted by the Indian an International Market. It is specially designed for Exhaust dyeing. It is suitable for Light, Medium, Dark & Heavy Dark Shades. It is a new range of High Tinctorial Value, Good Robustness, Extraordinary Colour Value, Unmatchable Lab to Bulk and Bulk to Bulk Reproducibility. It is also very cost effective. Less chance of Reprocessing of Dyed lots. It increases the RFT percentage. We also call this range of dyes as “Dyer’s Dream”. Apart for this range, we have also introduce our 5 other primary range of dyes, Dyecol DR Reactive Dyes, Dyecol CEFT & RR Reactive Dyes, Dyecol CELF Reactive Dyes, Reactive Blacks along with Royal Blue and Turquoise Blues. Our Entire Range of Dyes is GOTS Certified, we are a ZDHC contributor and we as a company are also ‘BLUESIGN System Partner’
How environment friendly is your solution and how are you ensuring it? We are exploring ways that can reduce the environmental impact of our clothes, primarily through the choice and use of materials and processes we use. A key area that has emerged within this research has been the way we dye fabrics, which can have huge impacts on water
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INTERVIEW systems through waste and contamination – not to mention the fact that colour is such a hugely important aspect of fashion.
How are you planning to promote your products in India? Through what means? Any Strategy being involved??
Please tell us about the Blue Sign certification you had received?
With a customer-centric approach and diversified product portfolio of Reactive Dyes, we had achieved an enviable reputation in widely spread domestic and global markets. We have significant market presence in all demographics catering to the wide range of demands of quality sensitive customers. We value our customer feedback and continuously strive to enrich customer experience.
Bluesign is an emerging gold-standard for environmental health and safety in the manufacturing of textiles, and textile related chemicals. The Switzerland-based organization, officially known as Bluesign Technologies AG, provides independent auditing of textile mills, examining manufacturing processes from raw materials and energy inputs to water and air emissions outputs. Each component is assessed based on its ecotoxicological impact. Bluesign ranks its audit findings in order of concern and suggests ways to reduce consumption while recommending alternatives to harmful chemicals or processes where applicable. Textile mills that commit to verifiably adopting Bluesign’s recommendations can become certified ‘System Partners’ and attract business from a wide range of brands and retailers around the world looking for greener vendors. Eco-aware consumers can feel confident purchasing clothing items with the Bluesign label that they are buying the most environmentally friendly, socially conscious version of the jacket, shirt, sweater, pants, hat or gloves in question. Given the push for greener products of every kind, Bluesign has gained serious traction in the last few years among some of the leading brands in the outdoor clothing and gear business.
We are having a strong presence in Indian Market with it versatile “DYECOL” Reactive Dyes range, we aim catering to more than 650 customers through an efficient distributors network across pan India. Our other products are being successfully used in this industry for over 20 years for dyeing of Woven, Knitted, Terry towel, Yarn, Hank, Fibre and Garments. Our prime focus remains on developing and launching innovative products regularly either for new applications/end-products or resolving problems faced by customers in their existing process or end-products through. Our clientele comprises of global customers from Bangladesh, China, Turkey, Pakistan, Iran, Egypt, Brazil, Nigeria, Mauritius and many more. What are your key markets and what are your expansion plans for the same? Our immediate expansion plan is to focus on the Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Iran and Turkey markets.
Timeline of the company
Shree Pushkar being a ‘Blue Sign’ system partner has received edge market our products in Bangladesh and other countries where textiles is a prominent industry. and the Brands and retailers are more emphasising on BLUE SIGN in order to ensure their output meets environment friendly standards
Box ITEM- [Only for Print]
What are the key trends you notice from buyers in terms of treating affluent?
2002 : Backward integration with in-house raw material and cost efficiencies.
Nowadays Buyers are fussier about ‘ZERO DISCHARGE’. They are procuring material from ZDHC contributors only. Using chemicals of known quality that meet the requirement of the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL) is an important part of chemical management that will lead to zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. This document describes the way in which chemical suppliers can provide indicators of conformance to become ZDHC accepted for MRSL conformance. chemical suppliers, brands, material suppliers, product finishers, and certification bodies.
2007 : Cattle Feed - recycling of effluents from dye intermediate division.
The intention of the ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance is to and their value chains find recognised, credible processes which provide an indication that a chemical formulation is in conformance with the ZDHC MRSL.
1993 : Import/Trading Commenced trading/imports of chemical products and dye intermediates. 2001 : Dye Intermediate Change of focus from trading to manufacturing
2010 :Acid Complex - entered New Segments 2011 :Single Super Phosphate (SSP) and Soil conditioner use of spent acid in manufacture of SSP 2015 : The company successfully got listed on National Stock Exchange and Bombay Stock Exchange. 2016 : Forward Integration, moving up the product value chain with the manufacture of dyestuff 2017 : Diversification of our fertilizer’s portfolio starting with manufacturing of SOP 2018 : Launch a new brand in the market named DYECOL By Swaminathan Balasubramanian Associate Editor of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN
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January 2019
PRODUCT FOCUS BIRLA CELLULOSE TAKES A QUANTUM LEAP TOWARDS MAKING FASHION MORE SUSTAINABLE. Liva, the leading ingredient consumer brand of the Aditya Birla Group, today unveiled a new eco enhanced variant of Liva fabric i.e. Livaeco. The event took place amidst glitterati and a forest-themed set up with Bollywood-actressand-Liva-brand-ambassador Kangana Ranaut walking the ramp.
Liva – in a short journey of over four years - has become a preferred ingredient brand for most consumers through its consistent high quality, natural origin and fluidity that it imparts to the garments making them fashionable and highly desirable. Livaeco, the eco enhanced variant of Liva was launched today with forest themed fashion show with garments designed by India’s leading fashion designers – Anju Modi, Wendel Rodricks and Gaurav Jai Gupta. Kangana Ranaut, Liva’s brand ambassador, brought up the grand finale as the showstopper in a gorgeous Livaeco garment. Whilst Liva itself is a highly sustainable fabric, Livaeco enhances this further through the use of raw materials from sustainable and certified forests, lowest water consumption & low green house gas emissions during the manufacturing process, coupled with a unique traceability solution for ensuring source credibility.
“At Birla Cellulose, sustainability is a continuous journey towards the wellbeing of all stakeholders and conserving nature. With the launch of Livaeco, we endeavor to systematically engage with the textile value chain and offer consumers fashionable clothing that is ecofriendly”, says Mr. Dilip Gaur, Managing Director, Grasim Industries Ltd.
Livaeco will be available exclusively in SS 19 and AW 19 seasonal collections of brand ‘W’. ‘W’ has especially curated a high fashion collection leveraging the attributes of Livaeco. Consumers can expect a delightful offering for new age women. Those who want to look fashionable and also contribute towards the cause of eco friendliness. The collections are expected in 300+ exclusive ‘W’ Stores and many more in ‘W’ collections at large format stores and Multi brands outlets across India by March’19.
ADVT.
“Birla Cellulose, following the Aditya Birla Group’s philosophy of being at the forefront of sustainable business practices, has taken yet another step towards enhancing the sustainability of the fashion industry through the introduction of Livaeco, a new variant of Liva,” added Mr Gaur.
“I strive for excellence in whatever I do. My fashion choices are not any different. Livaeco enables me to look my fashionable best and yet gives me the satisfaction that it is helping in preserving our precious environment.” says leading actress & Liva brand ambassador Kangana Ranaut.
Export & Import HO : A-403, Nirav Park, Behind Maruti Apartment, Opp. Kiran Diamond, Umiya Mandir Road, Varachha Road, Surat – 395006 Marketing Office : 519, Golden Plaza Market, Ring Road, Surat Email : bipinvora1959@gmail.com , voraassociate1@gmail.com
January 2019
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INTERVIEW
will be about and ascertain whether it’s worth proceeding. I expect the time spent in these meetings is going to be more valuable.
So how does this portal work? It’s a third party company that we have used for this portal. It’s a very established matching portal. Contact can be made exhibitor-to-exhibitor and also exhibitor-tovisitor . Often times, exhibitors also want to meet each other from different countries because in some situations they are suppliers to each other. This show is very much about buying and selling but it also provokes a lot of other discussion around investing in each other’s businesses, technology, transfers and many other things; so we would be foolish to assume that we know all of the activity that takes place in a trade show. The main benefit of a trade show apart from buying and selling is that it’s a chance for people to connect face-to-face and really uncover each other’s needs and that’s where relationships are forged; entrepreneurial ideas are sparked. So I don’t think it’s strictly about buying and selling. Of course that’s the main premise of the show, but there are other gains to be had from players on both sides of the equation just through connecting and building relationships and sharing information.
JULIE HOLT EXHIBITION DIRECTOR OF IEC GROUP What are the challenges that you have faced organizing a show of this size? It’s an interesting show because it has major exporters that exhibit in the show that may have operations in many countries around the world, with vertically integrated facilities. We also have a certain number of exporters that may enjoy a subsidy from their respective governments to help them learn about export and uncover new markets. So we have established and emerging on the exhibitor’s side and equally we have that with the buyer’s side. We have very established volume buyers in Australia but there are also an increasing number of startup companies in this country as in many others. People want to set up online retail operations and are also sourcing internationally. So, on both sides of the equation we have major and minor players. It can be a challenge to bring them together. But this year we introduced an online business matching platform; it is a trial but the feedback has been very positive. And that way a lot of work is done by the exhibitors and visitors before the show to set up meetings and that’s been very valuable. They exchange emails back and forth and understand more about what the meetings
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You have an increase in the number of countries participating this year from last year; how have you planned the same for next year? One of the developments for this year is introducing the Global Fashion Runway and branding that very strongly. We are fortunate to have participation by China and Indonesia to do country-specific presentations along with emerging designers from Australia. We believe this will set an example and attract interest from many other countries around the world to promote their fashion to Australia. It’s an accessible platform; it’s not a fashion week but equally it’s not an amateur presentation. It’s an unrivalled opportunity for countries to show their designs to a fashion-conscious audience in Australia. Australia is a very fashion-conscious market and Melbourne in particular is very fashionable. Often times people assume Sydney is the fashion market; really it’s Melbourne. There is a counter seasonal opportunity about Australian markets and it’s really going to add a lot of quality to the show. When the show commenced it was very much more of a commodity product like basic garments. A lot of quality has been steadily moving into the show in the last few years, particularly from India. A lot of the buyers asked us questions about the Indian exhibitors that are coming well in advance of the show because they see India as a major source of quality, and the increasing quality aspect within the show is going to attract more and more exhibitors from around the world. We certainly have designs on
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INTERVIEW attracting interest from some CIS countries and Europe. South Africa is participating in the show this year with footwear but we have had discussions about bringing apparel for next year. So that’s really exciting. We have had Mauritius in the show for the past two years, unfortunately not this year but certainly the show is becoming more than an Asia-Pacific Indian subcontinent show.
tion. We have spent a lot of effort in producing the show this year and certainly a lot of effort has been taken with photography and getting interviews with some of the designers. We will be pushing the Global Runway very hard to provide opportunities for some of the other countries within the show to participate in the runway next year and also to attract new countries and fashion designers.
Are you concentrated only in Australia for this show?
Do have new interests shown for the runway next year?
Yes. We want to produce sourcing events in Australia to the best of our ability and continue to make this the go-to platform for countries that want to tap into the Australian market. For the foreseeable future the show will stay in Melbourne, but I think there is some appetite for a second show to be held in Sydney. Perhaps in the next few years we may consider a second, smaller show in Sydney with the main show continuing in Melbourne. We’re looking at different ways of presenting the show in terms of product categories as well. At the moment the show is not laid out by product precinct and that can be somewhat confusing to buyers so we’re looking to perhaps make minor structural changes to the way the show format is presented. This show has a very strong base; I think certainly the medium-term outlook is very strong for the show.
Are you planning on having the Global fashion runway next year also? Yes! It can be as big as it can be in terms of the participa-
Definitely yes! In fact we have European interest and a number of fashion associations across Asia already interested.
Are you adding any new attractions next year? We are very excited about introducing more of a trend focus in 2019 and we will be publishing details of that in due course. Other than that we will continue to ensure that the existing feature program gets better and better and engages more exhibitors and visitors alike..
A few buyers that came in for the exhibition: Myer, Cue, Seed Heritage, Cotton On, Jo Mercer, Wittner, Tony Bianco, Brand Collective and Munro Footwear Group. Dates for next year’s exhibition are from 12th Nov - 14th Nov 2019 in the Melbourne Exhibition Centre. (By Priya Kayal- Associate Editor of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN)
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PRODUCT FOCUS
SAVIO MEETS OUR DEMANDS FOR THE BEST QUALITY LYCRA YARN – VARDHMAN Auro Spinning Mills, Baddi, a part of the wellknown Vardhman Group, is one of the mills in India where quality matters the most. Vardhman is famous for its quality, and thus Auro serves some of the most demanding customers in the world. Established in 1991, Auro Spinning Mills has 6 internal units having 80,000 spindles and 1,500 rotors. Mr Gurpreet Singh, who is responsible for Auro Spinning, heads a team consisting of around 800 employees who have expertise in running coarse, medium fine and super fine yarn counts. The average count is Ne 38’s and the finest yarn spun here is compact Ne 200’s with Suvin cotton. Along with cotton yarn, Auro also produces yarn from special blends of linen, wool and silk. Total production sums upto 44 metric tons per day.
Savio’s MOIST AIR SPLICER is an innovative air splicer that also uses a very small quantity of water alongwith air in the form of a spray. This creates a moist atmosphere in the splicing zone in a controlled manner with centralized setting arrangement. Next to splicers, ‘Flexible cycle’ is one among the best feature avoids annecessary operation of moving parts. With online tension monitoring in sync with drum speed and package speed sensors, the output package density, especially the unwinding tension make a huge difference in downstream process efficiencies.” Mr Gurpreet Singh was all praise for the technology supplier partner A.T.E., and said “With A.T.E. we have a long and comfortable relationship. They address our issues in a professional manner and come up with the desired solutions instantly. We are happy to continue our relationship with A.T.E. in the expansion of the Vardhman Group’s core spun yarn capabilities at Vardhman Fabrics, Bhopal, with 720 additional drums from Savio.”
ADVT.
Mr Gurpreet Singh explains why they prefer Savio automatic winders: “Filament visibility, especially in the dark shades of the core spun Lycra yarns, is not at all desired and Savio’s
TWIN SPLICER gives us the best results. At Vardhman our prime responsibility is to deliver value added products to our customers” He further added “In few articles , appearance of splice is very critical and we agree that moist splicer is a innovative solution for it is comparable with the same as the parent yarn. The twin splicer for core yarns ensures minimum fibre loss and maximum coverage to filament”
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TEXTILE MACHINERY & ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION
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