S U S TA I N A B L E F I B R E
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CLOTHING FROM BISON FIBRES Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA Business Head (Dyes), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd.
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Production of Bison Fibres When fashion brands talk about diverting materials from landfill that could be made into clothing, they are often talking about us-
being wasted." Just like merino wool is grown ntroduction by merino sheep, bison wool is grown by bison, also called AmeriAnimal fibers are natural fibres can buffalo. The coat of the bison that consist largely of certain proconsists of a coarse teins. Examples of shiny overcoat, a coarse natural animal fibres bulky midcoast, and include silk, hair/fur (including wool) and Bison fiber ready to be used in apparel. Though bison a short dense underfeathers. The ani- wool is most often used for the down, United by Blue’s in- coat. Bison wool can be mal fibres used most corporation of the guard hairs into insulation has proven broken down into two commonly, both in that the fiber is more versatile than that. Rauth says the main categories. Bison the manufacturing brand has even talked about selling the fiber directly to down, which makes up world as well as by other companies now that it is gone to the work of set- the animal's undercoat, the hand spinners are ting up the supply chain, though he is not sure whether is a soft fibre with a micron count of about wool from domestic that will end up happening or not. 15, which means the sheep and silk. Also individual fibres have very popular are Ala very small diameter paca fibre and Mohair ing deadstock fabric or turning and are incredibly soft. (For comfrom Angora goats. Unusual fibres plastic bottles into recycled polyparison's sake: cashmere has a such as Angora wool from rabbits ester. But United by Blue, an outmicron count of 14, while extra and Chiengora from dogs also exdoor apparel brand, has focused fine merino wool has a micron ist, but are rarely used for mass its sights on something a bit less count starting at 19. The lower production. ubiquitous: bison wool. Bison the number, the softer the fibre). Not all animal fibres have the have thick, shaggy coats that con- It is pretty much the equivalent of same properties, and even within tains fibres that are warmer than cashmere. It is really a luxury fibre. a species, the fibres are not con- sheep wool and can be as soft as It has all the benefits you would sistent. Merino is a very soft, fine cashmere, which were historically get from super fine wool like cashwool, while Cotswold is coarser, prized by the Indigenous commu- mere.These downy fibers makeup and yet both Merino and Cotswold nities, that lived in close proximity roughly 15% of the bison's coat are types of sheep. This compari- to them. But contemporary ranch- and can be used to knit items like son can be continued on the mi- ers, raising the animals for meat socks, gloves or hats. Bison down croscopic level, comparing the di- often discard or throw away those is used for this purpose by a few ameter and structure of the fibre. coats. This is where United by Blue other small brands besides United With animal fibres, and natural steps in, working with ranchers in by Blue. fibres in general, the individual an effort to salvage these valuable fibres look different, whereas all fibres and turn them into warm, The second part of the coat, called the guard hairs, make up the vast synthetic fibres look the same. high-performing garments. "Basi- majority of the bison's coat. The American bison grow a thick coat cally the hide is collected, rescue United by Blue is the only brand of fibres, which assists them to the fibre from landfills or from using them in apparel. The the withstand severe climatic condi- being burned, and then return guard hairs, which are the coarser tions. Bison fibres were tradition- the hides to the meat processing fibers, for insulation. It has a lot ally used in textiles by the natives plants, so they can pass them on of the same properties that you to tanneries. We did that primar- would get from merino wool: antiof North Americans. ily to keep the desirable fibre from JANUARY 2021
