JULY 2019

COVER JULY 2019.ai 1 03-08-2019 21:16:37

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July 2019

Volume 7

Issue 7

INTERVIEWS Robert Reimann, Jakob Muller Group Manohar Samuel, Grasim Industries Debdoot Mukherjee, National Jute Board Manish Poddar, IJMA MARKET REPORTS Yarn Report Surat Report CMAI Apparel Index POST ITMA INNOVATIONS 2019 BMS Vision,LOEPFE, MESDAN, RIMTEX, RETECH, SSM, RIETER , MIMAKI, SAURER

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 60

Stall No. BB 21,22,23

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July 2019

PRESENTING RAYSIL 100% NATURAL AND UNMATCHED IN ELEGANCE. Made from premium, imported wood pulp that gives a feather-light feel, vivid colours and a natural lustre for new age royalty.

VISCOSE FILAMENT YARNS FROM INDIAN RAYON

Contact: Mumbai: 022-66917930/31 Surat: 0261-4003361/62/66 raysil@adityabirla.com www.adityabirla.com

Artwork Size Textile Value Chain 8.5w X 11h in

YEARS

India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of

Torrey Twister

GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS

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RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLES

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SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS

MR.SURESH SARAF

MR. NAYAN SARAF

Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com

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Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2019 March 2018

STATIMAT ME+ Automatic Tensile Tester

STATIMAT ME+ This fully automatic tensile tester represents the latest evolutionary stage of the legendary STATIMAT line, which has been manufactured by Textechno for approximately 50 years. The STATIMAT ME+ combines a budget price with the outstanding performance of a STATIMAT ME. As its predecessors it features the straight input feed into the test section by the draw-off clamp for each new yarn length. In addition to the advantages of low technical expenditure, high delivery speed, and extremely reliable operation the STATIMAT ME+ enables the use of a package changer for feeding up to 50 yarn packages. The modular composition of the ME+ allows optimised budget.

In addition to standard tensile tests carried out

used within the force range of 1000 N (1500 N on request) to carry out tensile- and elasticity tests on fabrics and cohesion tests on slivers and rovings.

For this, various special clamps for manual introduction of the test sample are available as replace ments for the automatic yarn clamps.

Herbert Stein GmbH & Co. KG. Germany

WORLD TRADERS MFG. CO. 1413 , Maker Chambers V, 14th Floor, Nariman Point, Mumbai, India - 400021.

Tel : 022 22843423/22872935 | Fax:022 22872534 | Email:info@wtmcindia.com | Web:www.wtmcindia.in

July 2019

Delhi Office Ph.No. 91-11-24333256 / 24334457 Chennai Ph.No. 91-44-24321547 Corporate Office .710,Maker Chambers V , Nariman Point, Mumbai -400021, Tel nO. 91-22-2283-3458/ 2283- 3453 www.textilevaluechain.com

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SPECIALITY AND PREMIUM BLENDED RING SPUN YARNS

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July 2019

EDITORIAL TEAM ARTICLES

Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Chief Editor Mr. Bhavesh Thakar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Associate Editor Mr. Swaminathan

15- SUSTAINABLE FIBRE: Protective Clothing from Cordura Fibres

by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra 17- MEDICAL TEXTILES: Textile based Green Composites

by Jeyaraman Anandha Kumar 19- APPAREL FOCUS: Brands marketing up cycling as a new trend

by Dr. Manish Nangia, Jasmeet Kaur

INDUSTRY

Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond

12-Yarn Expo- Shanghai

Front Inside: The Axis

31- TexTest

Back Inside: Rimtex

51- Retech

3- Indian Rayon

54- Vora Associates

4- Sanjay Plastics

55- Ardex

5- LRT

56- Amith Garments

6-SKBS

57- DN Associates

7-TexTechno

58- ITMACH India

8-Source India 2019 9-BTEX 10-India ITME 2020 11- JP Modatex

July 2019

21- NON WOVEN FOCUS: Non-Woven Fabrics, Blessing for Modern Times by Kamal Shah

MARKET REPORTS 24- Yarn Report by Textile Beacon 26- Surat Report by TVC Reporter 27- Apparel Report by CMAI Apparel Index

EVENT UPDATE 28- National Garment Fair, Mumbai

July 2019

CONTENT

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar Consulting Editor Dr. N.N. Mahapatra Business Head (DYES), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. Mr. R.D. Udeshi President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd. EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Mr. R.M. Shankar Asst. Director, ATIRA

30- HGH India, Mumbai 32- Knitwear Expo, Tirupur 33- ITMA 2019

INTERVIEWS 49- Robert Reimann, Jakob Muller Group 52- Manohar Samuel, Grasim Industries 54- Debdoot Mukherjee, National Jute Board 56- Manish Poddar, IJMA

POST ITMA INNOVATIONS 2019 35- BMS Vision

39- RETECH

36- LOEPFE

40- SSM

37- MESDAN

41- RIETER

38- RIMTEX

42- MIMAKI 43- SAURER

46- Views for ITMA 2019 47- Budget Analysis by CITI

48- SHOW CALENDAR All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

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EDITORTIAL

Industry Revival …!

‘‘

Follow your intuition, it will always lead you to the right destination.

’’

Industry Down! Economy Down! We are hearing these words from many industries. What this means? Whether; production down, No market, No Purchasing Power, Global crisis, High Cost of living, increased rate of interest, increased Saving cost, increased tax liability, Govt. policy or any other. What is solution?

India has too much dependence on Developed market like USA? USA quota system demolished / USA shift buying pattern to other Asian countries lead to few garment export houses shut, few moved to purely domestic market with own domestic brands. US- CHINA Trade War, Indian cotton spinning industry feeling helpless! Domestic market had tremendous pressure to accept access production from industry, but domestic consumption is also less against the flow of supply. Other Developing / under developed market exploration may bring solution for the time to come with payment security measures.

Implementing GST in system is fairly appreciated by traders / industry community but non-refund of GST made industry’s life miserable!

Any Industry runs by Visionary people and attractive policy for investment. Policy has made for industry and much investment floated in value chain segments to get the benefits but this has been back fire to the industry with excess supply with limited demand in export / domestic. Is there any system, we can develop in which we calculate number of production units in India and production output / productivity? Can Ministry develop “ Entry Barrier “ Scheme with stringent norms to enter to the industry, which will make industry worthwhile to invest and investor also have long term vision and can control demand – supply ratio.

Current union budget industry got 30% reduced budget compared to last year. This shows the focus of Textile industry in the budget by Central Ministry across benefits offered to other segments. Associations / Councils / Confederation need to play major role for the interest of the industry and take major steps to revive industry.

Ms. Jigna Shah

Wish you become spiritually inclined in this challenging time!

Editor and Publisher

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July 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER PROTECTIVE CLOTHING Cordura was one of DuPont’s most popular fiber products. Its origin dates to 1929 when chemists at the DuPont Rayon Company succeeded in strengthening relatively weak rayon filaments into fibers suitable for use as sewing threads and tire cords. Subsequent tests on commercial vehicles proved that the new rayon lengthened tires’ life span, so in November 1934 DuPont started production of Cordura durable cord rayon tire yarn. Research during World War II improved Cordura and enabled its manufacture on standard rayon production equipment, thereby boosting both quality and output. The tendency of Cordura to strengthen when heated led to its extensive use in military tires made from synthetic rubber, which ran hotter than natural rubber.

Consequently, Cordura became widely known as an essential product for America’s war effort. In 1950 DuPont introduced Super Cordura tire yarn, but Super Cordura faced a formidable rival in another DuPont product, nylon. After performance tests in the 1950s showed nylon’s superiority, DuPont phased out Super Cordura and replaced it with a new industrial nylon yarn called N-56.

The last Super Cordura rayon plant closed in 1963 as DuPont officially exited the rayon business.

In 1966 DuPont transferred the Cordura brand name to the N-56 nylon product line. In 1977 DuPont researchers discovered a process for dyeing Cordura, which opened a wide variety of commercial applications. By 1979 soft-sided Cordura luggage had captured about 40 percent of the luggage market. In the 1980s DuPont expanded its Cordura line into sporting apparel and equipment, including boots and shoes, golf and ski bags, and backpacks. A softer version called Cordura Plus entered the market in 1988. Subsequent improvements made Cordura even lighter in weight and gave the fabric greater protection against fading from sunlight and washing. In 1996, Cordura Plus Natural™, with the look and feel of natural cotton canvas, became immediately popular with sporting goods and marine apparel manufacturers. The Cordura trademark and Cordura products were divested as part of the INVISTA™ separation in April, 2004.

Yarn spinners continued to develop new more colorful and functional yarns. In the 1990s, three variations on DuPont’s Cordura nylon went on the market. Originally introduced as a tire cord fiber, Cordura was introduced as a fabric for outdoor recreational apparel. In addition to its lightweight qualities, the Cordura/acrylic blend offered twice the abrasion resistance of ballistic nylon, three times that of vinyl or standard nylon, and four times that of cotton. Previous applications included luggage, backpacks, boots, and rugged ski apparel. Cordura is a nylon yarn made out of 100% polyamide fibres. The raw fibres

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FROM CORDURA FIBRES are cut, respun and finally woven to a fabric Is available in many different fibre strengths and has a much higher abrasion resistance than regular nylon .High performance polyamide fibres form the basis of lightweight design that has an extremely high resistance against wear and tear .

Cordura AFT uses a knitted mesh structure that is especially comfortable when riding in hot climates Invista is one of the world’s largest integrated producers of polymers and fibers, primarily for nylon, spandex and polyester applications, a business presence in over 20 countries, Invista’s global businesses deliver exceptional value for their customers through technology innovations, market insights and a powerful portfolio of global trademarks. The Cordura brand is a registered trademark of Invista , of Koch Industries, Inc., since the brand name’s April 2004 sale, one of the world’s largest integrated polymer, intermediates and fibers businesses.

Properties – Cordura is a Du Pont brand of air textured nylon yarn. Cordura® 500/700 -It is Nylon yarn which consists of 100% polyamide.The manufacturing process involves respinning and weaving the cut polyamide fibres. The melting point is 210 °C. Cordura® 700 is even more tearresistant. Cordura is resistant to scuffs and tears, with a high strength-to-weight ratio. Invista claims that it is 10 times more durable than cotton duck canvas. Invista offers no comparison to leather.Cordura fabric is more durable than other fabrics. No matter the application, Cordura fabric offers a superior strength-to-weight ratio, making it a first-choice for durable fabrics. • Cordura is considered a high performance fabric. When compared to other fabrics where durability is key, it is an obvious choice. Cordura is ten times more durable than cotton duck fabric and three times more durable than standard polyester.

Care of Cordura Fabric • Most apparel products can be machine washed and dried on a low setting. Luggage, backpacks and upholstery can be spot cleaned with a spray cleaner or detergent.

For example, classic Cordura fabrics made from Invista high tenacity, air-jet textured nylon are: • 10 times more durable than cotton duck • 3 times durable than standard polyester • 2 times durable than standard nylon In other fabric constructions, Cordura fabric offers bestin-class durability over comparable unbranded fabrics.

Cordura® AFT is 2-7 times more durable than Nylon, Polyester and Cotton.

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER Nylon Cordura: PU Coated This fabric is coated with Urethane coating and DWR. This Fabric, in all weights, is very abrasion resistant and has a high tear strength with a rough brushed-cotton like appearance.

Cordura fabric is resistant to abrasions, tears, and scuffs all the qualities expected from a high performance fabric.

So regardless of the activity, wearers will benefit from the durability of Cordura fabric. Cordura is popular among motorcyclists because it breathes better than leather; is relatively lightweight versus leather and its abrasion and tear resistance offers good protection against road rash in accidents. Cordura fabric is not as heat resistant or safe as Kevlar. However, Cordura fabric is specially made to be long lasting and to endure. Products such as heavyduty luggage, overalls and even parachutes and tie-down straps that will need to hold up under a great deal of pressure are all products that might be better served made out of Cordura fabric.

USES – Cordura fabric has been manufactured for over 30 years. While the fabrics vary in texture, weight and composition, all are known for their extreme durability. Items made with Cordura, such as luggage or backpacks, will often have a hang tag or label identifying the fabric as part of the product For gear, performance apparel and work wear, Cordura can be used in a wider range of products from heavyduty performance gear and apparel to everyday wear.

Cordura is even tougher to beat. From luggage and backpacks to boots and performance apparel, it is easier than ever to choose the look, texture and weight you need for all kinds of styles.

When put to the test, Cordura resists tears and abrasions like no other fabric of its kind. It’s resistant to abrasions, tears, and scuffs--all the qualities you expect from a high performance fabric. So regardless of people’s activities, people will benefit from the toughness of Cordura. The fiber options with Cordura are as plentiful as they are practical. Some popular blends are list as below: Cordura Plus/Acrylic - Apparel with this blend is comfortable, warm and quiet--qualities that make it perfect for hunting, workwear and rugged apparel.

Cordura Plus/Lycra - To date, this has been the most popular blend, providing a winning combination of durability and flexibility. Available in one-way and two-way stretch fabrics, this blend can be used in warp only, fill only or a combination of both.

Known for its resistance to abrasions, tears and scuffs, Cordura fabric is a primary ingredient in many of the world’s leading high-performance gear and apparel products ranging from luggage, upholstery and backpacks to

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footwear, military equipment, tactical wear, workwear and performance apparel.These fabrics are available in a wide range of fabric constructions, weights and textures, including: • Ultra Light Weight Nylon Ripstop Fabrics (30, 70, 100 denier) • Nylon/Cotton Blends for Workwear and Denim • Textured Nylon Bottom Weights (160, 330 denier) • Light Weight Nylon Packcloths (210, 420 denier) • Textured Nylon or Polyester Packcloths (300, 500, 1000 denier) • Heavy Weight Nylon Ballistic Fabrics (630, 840, and 1050 denier) y Cordura is Dupont’s, “air treated” nylon fabric and Kodra is a similar fabric made by Kolon Intl of Korea.

They have a rough fuzzy texture and have great abrasion resistance. Neither is as puncture resistant as Oxford Weave Nylon and does not waterproof as well as Nylon. Polyurethane coated Cordura and Kodra are considered waterproof. y 1000 denier’s long lasting qualities make it popular for pack, luggage, sea bags, duffel bags, and sophisticated rock climbing packs. These fabrics are often used in heavy duty packs and luggage and often used on the bottom of packs. Pound for pound, it is not as strong as nylon rip-stop, but is generally made in a heavier weight and is more durable by the square foot/meter.

Fields of application are: Individual Protection Light Weight Bullet Proof Vest, Jackets, Hard Armour Panel Inserts, Bomb Blankets, Shields, Helmets and Combat Shoes. Cordura fabric is a line of fabrics manufactured to be extremely durable and resistant to tearing, scuffing or abrading. Common uses include luggage, military apparel and upholstery. Cordura is not one fabric, but rather a brand that manufactures a wide variety of fabrics from lightweight rip-stop nylon to heavy duty ballistic fabrics.

Vehicles Protection Armouring of Civil and Military Vehicles.

Aircraft Protection Cordura fabrics are used in clothing, footwear, equipment for all branches of the military, as well as law enforcement. Cordura’s durability is also useful for other high use applications, such as car or airplane upholster Seat, Floor and Wall Armouring.

Boal Protection Bridge, Storage Compartments and Command Center Armouring.

Building Protection Armouring of Industrial and High-Risk Sites.

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER Cordura launches durable denim fabric .Fibre maker Invista has launched a new denim fabric line that combines the long-lasting durability of its Cordura brand with the authentic look and feel of traditional denim.The Cordura Denim fabrics are based on an 88/12 blend of Invista’s T420 nylon 6,6 fibre and cotton. The company claims that jeans made from the new fabric last 50% to 60% longer when industrially laundered than those made from 100% cotton denim. The material is also said to be three times more resistant to abrasion.

Fibre maker Invista has introduced a lighter weight version of its Cordura branded workwear fabric. Based on 770-decitex high tenacity nylon 6.6 textured yarns, the fabric provides a lightweight and durable option for reinforcing garments exposed to extremely heavy wear and tear.The fabrics were originally engineered for military requirements and give greater wearer mobility than heavier weight versions, the company says.

This fibre is going to play a major role in the coming years as Technical Textiles is coming up all over the globe. It has to be taken up seriously by countries like China and India. Till date no significance work done in these two countries.

DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

MEDICAL TEXTILE

TEXTILE BASED GREEN COMPOSITES

COMPOSITES The word “composite” refers to the combination, on a macroscopic scale, of two or more materials, different for composition, morphology and general physical properties. In many cases, and depending on the constituent properties, composites can be designed with a view to produce materials with properties tailored to fulfill specific chemical, physical or mechanical requirements. Most human tissues such as bones, tendons, skin, ligaments, teeth, etc., are composites, made up of single constituents whose amount, distribution, morphology and properties determine the final behavior of the resulting tissue or organ. Man-made composites can, to some extent, be used to make prostheses able to mimic these biological tissues, to match their mechanical behavior and to restore the mechanical functions of the damaged tissue. Amongst the advantages of using cellulose in polymer composites, renewability, cheapness, high specific strength and modulus are the most important. Taking account of these properties, the present paper gives a widespread overview of the potential applications of cellulose-based composites in the medical field.

NATURAL GREEN COMPOSITES The use of natural or synthetic materials to substitute or integrate body functions or organs, damaged by traumatic or pathologic events, to assist tissue healing or to correct abnormalities, dates far back to the beginning of medicine

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into ancient civilizations. Therapeutic innovations and the design and implementation of complex medical devices permit increased patient survival, significantly improve quality of life and contribute to increase life expectancy.

The word “composite” refers to a heterogeneous combination, on a macroscopic scale, of two or more materials, differing in composition, morphology and usually physical properties, made to produce specific physical, chemical and mechanical characteristics. The combination of different elements results in a material that maximizes specific properties. The advantage of composites is therefore that they show the best qualities of their constituents,and often exhibit some properties that the single constituents do not have. Moreover, composite materials allow a flexible design, since their structure and properties can be optimized and tailored to specific applications.[1]. Composite materials made from glass fibres or carbon fibres embedded into epoxy resins or unsaturated polyester typically exhibit excellent mechanical and thermal properties and are used in many applications, for instance in the aerospace and automotive fields. However, these materials are incinerated at the end of their life cycle, causing significant environmental issues [2]. Consequently, the increasing environmental awareness and ecological concerns have resulted in a renewed interest in natural-based and compostable materials, and therefore issues such as biodegradability and environmental safety are becoming important. Indeed, the concept of biocomposites made from cellulose-based feedstock appears to be an alterna-

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MEDICAL TEXTILE tive route to achieve ‘green’ polymer composites.

6. General Aspects:

ADVANTAGES OF BIOCOMPOSITES

• safer crash behavior in tests (i.e., no splintering)

Natural fibres can be classified according to their origin: bast fibres (jute, flax, and hemp), leaf fibres (sisal and pineapple), seed fibres (cotton and coir), and other types which include wood and roots. Besides their abundance in nature, natural fibres have many advantages such as low weight, cheapness, renewability, and they exhibit good mechanical properties.Polymer composites reinforced by natural fibres have performances which are highly dependent on the chemical composition, structure, and physical and mechanical properties of the dispersed phase.[3,4].

Advantages and Disadvantages of Natural Fibres Products Advantages of Natural Fibers

Disadvantages Natural Fibers

1. Environmental Aspects:

y Lower strength, specially impact strength

• renewable resources

of

• low energy requirements during production • carbon dioxide neutrality • disposal by composting •

2.Biological Aspects: natural organic products • no dermal issue for their handling • do not pose a bio-hazard upon disposal 3. Production Aspects: • non-abrasive • great formability

Variable quality, influenced by weather

y Poor moisture resistance which causes swelling of the fibres

4. Component Weight Issues: y Restricted maximum processing y Lightweight (less than half the temperature density of glass fibers) • 5. Financial Aspects:

y Lower durability; Poor fire resistance

y Poor fibre/matrix adhesion

• good thermal insulation and acoustic properties due to their hollow tubular structures • high specific strength • good sound insulation • price fluctuation by harvest results or agricultural politic

CONCLUSIONS The use of composite materials for biomedical applications offers many new options and possibilities for implants design. As a matter of fact, composite materials and components can be designed to obtain a wide range of mechanical and biological properties. The implant structure and its interactions with the surrounding tissues can be optimized by varying the constituents, the type and distribution of the reinforcing phase and adding coupling agents.Increasing environmental awareness and ecological concerns have renewed the interest in natural-based and compostable materials, and therefore issues such as biodegradability and environmental safety are becoming important. The concept of biocomposites made from cellulose-based feedstock appears to be an alternative route to achieve green polymer composites.

From tissue engineering to biodevices, cellulose-based composites can be found in the most inspiring and challenging developments in the medical field.

REFERENCES 1.Composite materials for biomedical applications: a review E. SALERNITANO, C. MIGLIARESI 1ENEA - Italian Agency for New Technology, Energy and Environment - Materials and Technologies Division, S. Maria di Galeria (Roma) – Italy,Department of Engineering Materials and Industrial Technologies, University of Trento - Italy 2. B.M. Cherian, A.L. Leão, S.F. de Souza, L.M.M. Costa, G.M. de Olyveira, M. Kottaisamy, E.R. Nagarajan and S. Thomas, Carbohydrate Polymers, 2011, 86, 1790.

3. www.bioresources.com 4.Potential use of plant fibres for Bio-Medical Applications,Farideh Namvar et al ,”Bio Resources”9(3),5688-5706.

JEYARAMAN ANANDHA KUMAR Lecturer, Department of Textile Processing, GRG Polytechnic College

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July 2019

APPAREL FOCUS

BRANDS MARKETING UP CYCLING AS A NEW TREND Apparels are considered as a form of self-expression, reflection of an individual’s personality and status. People are conscious about the way they dress and follow largely the concept of fast fashion. But Indian Fashion Industry is the second largest industry to harm environment through its various activities. Paper, plastic and glass waste material are considered for reducing, reusing or recycling whereas textile is such material that is 100% recyclable and reusable. With increasing awareness about sustainability, up cycle comes as a promising practice using old material to make a completely new product. Up cycling is considered as a new shift where waste material is put together to make a better quality and greater value product. Though it is not a new concept, but has been readapted again by new generation to design and market products that are sustainable, and as a result of that establishing a prominent brand image in the mindset of consumers.

The up cycled product reduces consumption of new raw material, saves energy and resources intensively ensuring a positive step which is directed towards achieving reduced waste. It increases the lifecycle of the product, helps conserve ecology and nature, reduces landfill dumping also. Up cycling helps to preserve natural environment, eco system and reduce pollution. With the concept of up cycling traditional craftsmanship is restored and do it yourself projects are encouraged. Though many people are skeptical about using the old things, but increasing awareness is changing the perception and thus helping brands produce and sell up cycle fashion products and apparels.

Many brands have added up cycling as their new Unique Selling Point and are making consumers aware about its advantages. Designer brands have started using fabric cut offs and dump stocks kept in their own production space nicely to be put together with traditional and modern techniques of embroidery and assembling. The products are embellished with traditional work like patch work, appliquĂŠ work, kantha work adding value to the up cycled product. Up cycling majorly helps to cater to conscious customer with unique products.

Few startups have taken up cycling as a whole unique idea to cater to the customers. These brands consider the concept of ethical fashion and are transparent on how they procure and source material and their manufacturing processes so that consumers are aware of what they are buying and how they are contributing to the environment. Such brands are helping to reuse the waste material that will ultimately go in landfill, giving a new life to the product, reducing carbon footprint by their various efforts and helping consumers to contribute their bit for

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the environment.

Following are few brands who follow up cycling as a major idea by selling their products offline or online:

1.Reimagined With an effort to make consumer aware of consumption of day to day material and finding a solution for Solid Waste Management, Brand Reimagined upcycle waste into variety of utility products and offer footwear, furnishing, gift packs, accessories and stationeries. Reimagined also creates livelihood for poor women in urban and rural sector by reducing the carbon footprint, pulling away tons of waste from ending in landfill.

2. Desi Jugaad With redesigning old furniture and space designing using upcycled material, Desi Jugaad restore and revamp old furniture. They are contributing to the trend of up cycling the old furniture with innovative designs incorporating simple objects. The designs are creatively different and stands out to the brand name Jugaad. Each product speaks out for itself maintaining the essence of an up cycling concept.

3. Aadhan An Eco friendly infrastructure and pre-fabricated building made from shipping containers and other recycled materials. Aadhan uses recycled containers to build facility, offer eco-friendly material for interiors, up cycling waste and the brand also save energy by preventing containers from being scrapped.

4. Greensole Greensole is taking a step towards sustainability by using old and discarded shoes by refashioning them into new up cycled and comfortable footwear. Consumers have started dropping their old shoes at collection center of Greensole and have started buying a new pair of up cycled footwear that are trendy. The founders being athletes have researched a new idea that led to the use of old worn out shoes by keeping them away from landfill by sustaining environment. Greensole started as a selfsustaining social venture, which also provides footwear to people in need across villages in India.

5. Jaggery Another sustainable design brand that offers high quality bags and accessories made by recycled material. Brand Jaggery converts industrial waste material into green fashion product. Up cycling and producing beautiful products with functional accessories majorly using scrap material, the offering of Brand Jaggery is built on sustainability with

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APPAREL FOCUS details, style, comfort and bags for every occasion. This brand also plants a tree for every purchase made through their website. They are also working towards reforestation and trying to provide sustenance to local population in developing countries.

Bibliography Reimagine Recycling with Rimagined Read more: Https:// heybeautiful.in/upcycling-rimagined-shailaja/. (n.d.). Retrieved from Reimagine Recycling with Rimagined Read more: https://heybeautiful.in/upcycling-rimagined-shailaja/

S. A. (2016, July 4). Eight Indian Fashion Start-ups committed to upcycling, Retrieved June 1, 2019, from http:// www.doonething.in/content-hub-archive/2016/7/4/eightindian-fashion-start-ups-committed-to-upcycling B. K. (2018, June 6). 15 Stores That Sell The Coolest Upcycled Products. Retrieved June 2, 2019, from https://www. whatshot.in/delhi-ncr/15-stores-that-sell-the-coolest-upcycled-products-c-10882

JASMEET KAUR

DR. MANISH NANGIA

Fashion Design

Assistant Professor-FMS

YMCA Institute of Fashion Design and Technology New Delhi

National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi

NEWS

TRANSFER OF TECHNOLOGIES AND RESEARCH IN COTTON INDUSTRY Agri Business Incubation (ABI) Centre of ICAR-CIRCOT established under NIAP is promoting entrepreneurship and nurturing the establishment of start-ups based on the technologies developed by the institute in the area of post-harvest processing of cotton and value addition to its by-produce.Two start-ups were established by the incubates of CIRCOT ABI Centre.

Recently R-ABI has been established in the institute under the revamped scheme RashtriyaKrishiVikasYojana – Remunerative Approaches for Agriculture and Allied Sector Rejuvenation (RKVY-RAFTAAR). CIRCOT R-ABI supports agribusiness incubation by tapping innovations and technologies for venture creation in agriculture that includes Agri-Biotech, Agriculture/Horticulture/Natural Resource Management, Sustainable Agriculture/ Organic farming, Animal Husbandry, Dairying and Fishery.

Agri-input tools and technologies, Micro irrigation, Farm Mechanization and AgriEngineering, Precision Farming, Harvesting and Post-Harvest Processing, Food Processing, Supply Chain Management, Farm Retailing,AgriExtension Education, Internet of Things (IoT), ICT and Artificial Intelligence in Agriculture, Waste to Wealth, Secondary

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Agriculture,Agri Clinics & Farm Health services, Cotton and Other Natural Fibres, Nanotechnology Application in Agriculture, Green Composites, Paper and Pulp and Packaging.

Reference : Textile Ministry

INDIA’S SHARE IN GLOBAL TEXTILE EXPORTS The share of India in global textile exports is 6% in 2017.

Share of top three textile exporting countries in global textile exports is: S No.

Country

Share of Textile Export in Global Textile Exports

1.

China

33.6%

2.

USA

6.3%

3.

India

6%

Textile sector exports contribution in India’s total exports is 12.2% in 2018-19. As exports of textile sector have increased in last five years, it is expected to grow in future as well.

Share of textile sector export in India’s export is reported at 12.9% in 2014-15 and 12.2% in 2018-19.

Reference : Textile Ministry

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July 2019

NON WOVEN FOCUS

NON-WOVEN FABRIC, NICE BLESSING FOR THE MODERN TIMES. Plastic is supposed to be a curse for the Globe. We were unable to imagine as to how to carry things without LD/LLD carry bags and people do not want to pay money for these FREE bags. We need almost everything for free even at any cost, let the environment go to hell because we are not taught this basic culture in Schools that we owe anything to the Nation, all expect everything from the Nation for almost free!

And still plastic only came to the rescue. In another way. Polypropylene carry bags.

Such people need bags Rice Bags of Kohinoor and without lamination but use Dawat a liner inside. About 50 to 60 GSM liner is used, made from LD + LLD 3 layer.

Fabric made form almost Organic Vegetables NONVirgin material, in case to Woven Hydrophilic matebe transported and stored rial for long.

Fabric made with high con- Organic Vegetables NONWoven normal spun tent of CaCO3 20% bonded in case the storage is not for more time Fabric made with low con- Organic Vegetables NONnormal spun tent of CaCO3- about 10 % Woven bonded in case the storage is not for more time

Recent History:

with 20% CaCO3

In INDIA there is hardly any leader and all slip into the footsteps of followers and so when the non-woven fabric started being manufactured in INDIA, almost all of them started making rolls for bags, all could see only one application of Carry bags only. The country was not a matured market for the carry bags, the LD/LLD bags were not forced out still, courtesy the GREEDY manufactures, hands in glove business doers-Government officers and “everything for free seeking” end users. And so, who rushed in to making spun bonded non-woven were getting chocked up among competition, some died premature death.

Fertilizer

There can be many varie- Display Material Posters and Banners ties With 10% CaCO3 With 10% CaCO3 Mostly non-laminated with Calendars: Cheaper 10% to 30% CaCO3 with BOPP reversed print- Calendars: costlier ed laminated with BOPP thickness 12 Micron With 10% CaCO3 Dried Onion and Garlic flakes

Applications were many in fact which the ‘followers’ could not visualize.

Dried Onion and Garlic powder

A few to name were as below.

With 20 % CaCO3

Rice

With 20 % CaCO3

Pulses

With 20 % CaCO3

Jeera

Normal Spun bonded 30 GSM Material for False ceiling and Walls plastering to avoid cracks

With 20 % CaCO3

Isabgol

DETERGENTS packing

With 20 % CaCO3

Seeds

With 20 % CaCO3

Seeds

With 20 % CaCO3

Seeds

Virgin

BANANA BAGS

July 2019

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Industrial

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NON WOVEN FOCUS General Applications With 15% to 30% CaCO3

Shopping bags

With 15% to 30% CaCO3

Shopping bags Laminated

Undecided percentage of Carry Bags CaCO3, as per needed quality of the bags. with 15 % to 25% CaCO3

Suiting Shirting and Saree Bags

With 20 % to 30% CaCO3

Promotional Bags

With 20 % to 30% CaCO3

Laundry Bags

With 30 % CaCO3

Trash Disposal Bags

With 20% CaCO3

Hip bags

VIRGIN

Crop Covers

have to keep on manufacturing option and shall have to keep on using plastic which is ‘THE ONLY OPTION’.

Paper did not prove as an option for scarcity of Wood.

And so polypropylene spun bonded Nonwoven proved a ideal option which can continue for some more time.

20% CaCO3 to Virgin

Disposable caps, gowns, masks,

With 10% CaCO3

scrub suits and shoe covers

With 10% CaCO3

Drapes, wraps and packs

Because: o It is durable o Re-cyclable o Easy to make and re-cycle o Needing lesser energy to make and recycle o Availability is not an issue o Can offer thousands of applications, colors, thicknesses …. And so on.

Virgin

Bed linen

The limitation is:

With 15% CaCO3

Contamination control gowns

With 15% CaCO3

Examination gowns

With 15% CaCO3

Lab coats

RIL, HPL, HPCL (HMEL) and IOCL – are the major producers of Polypropylene in India.

ONGC (OPaL), MRPL and BCPL (Brahmaputra Cracker and Polymer Ltd) are expected to join this elite club when their petrochemical (PP) plants are completed.

Medical Products

Automotive With 20% CaCO3

Primary & secondary carpet backing

With 20% CaCO3

Carpet tufting and under padding

With 20% CaCO3

Seats Upholstery

With 20% CaCO3

Interior trim

With 10% CaCO3

Insulation (thermal and noise)

However, this Technical textile as defined

by Central Government of INDIA, Ministry of textiles, can prove a nice blessing sine it has given us a material which is like Cloth (Most feel that that Polypropylene Spun bonded Non-woven is Cloth like cotton. Textiles in INDIA is supposed to be Natural cloth or artificial textile like people in SURAT make but most are unaware that it is also PLASTIC!

With 10% CaCO3

Roofing

And so, it is blessing.

With 10% CaCO3

Underlay

Because: • some people hate plastic by heart. [and when they come to know that what they use is plastic, they may not like it] • Some take it as cheaper Cloth!

• Not like cotton bag which you must keep on using time and again for it is highly durable and so you get something new at almost free. [ most carry nags in INDIA are for free- courtesy bags] • Even they do not mind throwing it as it is free.

Building

And believe us, the above are limited applications still.

In fact for Vehicle covers, for medical applications, for the hospital curtains, for disposable pillow covers and many more like those could offer lot of money to the manufacturers and converters but an average investor and so-called entrepreneur [ who usually are and were four to five partners got together with 1 Cr. capital each ] to start such Rush business, following each other without application of brain, spoiled not only the market but application/s itself for the nice product.

The time changed again. The demand appeared again and in our country, no politician has enough brain [ not they have enough education Apart from all the above this form of Technifrom ground level nor even enough patriotism to understand either] to cal textile is a new and best business opporunderstand the need to grow more cotton that can be sufficient enough tunity. Let us look at it here below. for our cloths, curtains, bed-sheets, carry bags et-cetera and so we shall In fact, there are huge opportunities on

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July 2019

NON WOVEN FOCUS business front with the following one plant that can make many kinds of technical textiles.

This is SMMSSS plant though shown but One can go in for SMS non-woven fabric making line which woill offer them all the following variants: S = Spun bonded non-woven fabric making, the applications o which are as mentioned in this article.

SS = Double Spun bonded composite material which also has equally higher number of applications for the stronger fabric.

SMS = Spun bonded + Melt Blown + Spun bonded material Which is three layered composite non-woven material which is Hydrophobic [Water hating] cannot allow water / liquids to pas through unless at very high jet pressure.

Applications of SMS: fabric medium

This is stronger three-layered

Many sorts of medical applications like Doctor’s Surgical gowns & head covers, Scooter and car covers [ SMS avoid much of Dust and dirt] baby nappies, nappies and towels for elderly people, ladies’ hygienic towels, ladies slip towels, protective masks and show covers.

In the Developed countries, for medical and hygiene applications, SMS non-woven technical textile is in high demand, make them in HIGH QUALITY in INDIA And can make millions. CHINA Exports a lot of the world.

M = Melt blown: This is actually sprayed polypropylene plastic. Mostly for many filters this is the medium. It has the barrier behavior against fluids combined with breathability

material and can be used as Water loving material which is then used for Sanitary and napkin making fabric which needs to absorb liquid and still stay string. This is additional opportunity.

And benefits of Subsidy on Investment in Technical textiles. Plus Interest subsidy.

Have a look at the following data: CAGR (%) of Global Non- 7 Woven Asia Pacifica market % 42.4 within Global Usage Spun laid as % of Non-Wo- 48.5 ven World over Global Non-Woven Tex- 42.1 Billion USD tile market expected at by 2020 Non-Woven production 12.8 CAGR in INDIA Till 2015 Usage per person 155 of Non-Woven in Gram by 2020 The usage per per- 600 son to touch in Gram Non-Woven Gujarat Manu- 45 facturing %-wise Maharashtra + Delhi + Har- 30 yana %

Applications: Filter medium layered between supporting layers, Vacuum cleaner bag, Acoustical insulating web, high sorption efficiency of melt-blown is used in making disposable diapers, sanitary napkins and other feminine hygiene products, used also for apparels, it is also capable to produce drug-loaded fibers for controlled drug delivery.

SM = Spun bonded with Melt blown Most important aspect of this article is, China Exports millions of tons of Melt blown and SMS material to American and European countries. Here lies the business opportunity.

Please note: o Get the highest possible quality line from China. o Ensure Guarantee / warranty terms o Ensure after sales services

KAMAL SHAH

kamal@positiveaggression.in

Invest about 10 Cr in the plant of high quality and start making all the above material.

Additionally, can go in for a Hydrophilic machine which applies Hydrophilic material on to normal Spun bonded

July 2019

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YARN REPORT

BASIC TEXTILES SHIPMENT SHARE HALVES

In June, total shipment of basic textile comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns plunged 52% in US$ terms and 50% in INR terms. During the month, exports were worth US$393 million or INR2,806 crore, accounting for about 1.6% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. A year ago, the same items had accounted for 3% of total merchandised export. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weakened from INR66.72 to INR68.80 this June, which generally boosts export.

Cotton export almost negligible

stan were the other major importers of cotton yarn, with former recording 16% increase in value and latter jumping 50%. Fifteen countries did not import any cotton yarn from India this June and they had imported yarn worth US$1.40 million in June 2018. However, they replaced by just 8 other countries which imported yarn worth only US$0.30 million.

Iran, Russia, Nepal and Slovania were among top fastest major importers of cotton yarn in June while China significantly reduced its imports compared to last year.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports which had shown momentum in May, decreased 10% in June. They comprised 3.7 million kg of polyester yarn, 3.0 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.7 million kg of acrylic yarn. The expansion was led by viscose yarn, which increased 5% in terms of value while volumes increased 8%. Polyester yarn exports declined 23% in US$ term during the month. Acrylic yarn exports also fell 3% during the month.

Cotton exports volume was down to a negligible 62 thousand bales (170 kg each) in June against close to 6 lakh bales exported in the same month of previous marketing year (2017-18) and 1.62 lakh bales in the previous month.

Shipment in US$ term declined by 89% YoY. Bangladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton in June, followed

by Vietnam and Iran. Pakistan was fourth largest market.

Very unusual, there was no shipment of cotton to China, which was the fourth largest importer of Indian cotton in the previous month.

Cotton yarn export falls 12% in April, China cuts import Spun yarns shipment totaled 77 million kg (down 23%) worth US$236 million (down 23%) implying an average unit value realization of US$3.08 per kg, same as in previous month but down US cents 8 from a year ago average.

Bangladesh emerged as the largest buyer of spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value.

Cotton yarn export was at 57 million kg worth US$1823 million (INR1,252 crore), down more than 50% from a year ago level. 74 countries imported cotton yarn from India at an average price of US$3.19 a kg, up US cents 2 from previous month but down US cents 3 from last year.

Bangladesh, the top cotton yarn market, imported 46% lesser cotton yarn from India this June. During the month, export to Bangladesh was 9 million kg worth US$29 million only. China followed Bangladesh with volume and value declining more than 80 year on year. Peru and Paki-

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Polyester spun yarns export was worth US$8.84 million and were exported to 49 countries at average unit price of US$2.39 a kg, up US cent 1 from last month and down US cents 9 from last year. Iran was the largest importer of pol-yester yarn, followed by Turkey and Brazil.

Viscose yarn worth US$9.50 million or INR65 crore was exported in June at an average price of US$3.13 per kg.

Iran was the top importer worth US$3.4 million, followed

by Bangladesh and Turkey. Belgium was the fourth largest importer of viscose yarn during the month.

Blended spun yarns worth US$32 million were exported in June, down 36% YoY. During the month, 6 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$15.8 million while 3.9 million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$11 million.

Egypt, Bangladesh and Turkey, were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Iran.

All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled 53 million kg (down 21%. YoY), valued at US$89 million (down 28%.

YoY). Only nylon and polypropylene filament yarn export was positive and also showed substantial increases.

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2019

YARN REPORT

GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND

Cotton In India, spot prices moved either ways in June with some varieties, mostly coarser ones declining INR75-835 per candy while finer fibre were dearer by INR105-175 a candy from their levels in May. Benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6 gained INR175 to average INR45,475 per candy. Cotton markets were less influenced by the global prices as US December futures was down by about 5% on the Month.

However, prices were seen moving down in late June and exports were almost negligible during the month. Meanwhile the government announced its minimum support price for different kharif crops for the 2019-20 marketing season. The new MSP for cotton is pegged at INR5,255 per quintal for medium staple and at INR5,550 for long staple. These implies a hike of INR105 and INR100, respectively compared to previous market season. With subdued monsoon and mounting agrarian distress, the increases in MSP appear miniscule for most crops and is far away from the government’s intention to double farmers’ incomes by assuring them commodity prices at least 1.5 times of the production cost.

Cotton Futures saw declines in June in slow trading month in the US. Hopes were that an agreement between US and China was not far away, but details were still difficult and the representatives stated that the final negotiations will take some time. Meanwhile cotton crop progress was very close to the five-year average and conditions were termed mixed, but appear to be improving.

The most active US cotton contract on ICE Futures, July settled down US cents 5.35 at US cents 63.97 per pound while December settled at US cents 65.73 per pound, down US cents 3.25 on the month. Global spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index, eased US cents 2.62 to US cents 77.75 per pound in June.

Polyester chain costing Paraxylene markets weakened in Asia in June with prices plunging more than 5% month on month as downstream buyers were reluctant to restock. Cost support also eased as isomer-grade sellers struggled to offload July cargoes.

Meanwhile, no major settlement was reached for Asian contract price, failing for the fourth time this year. In Europe, contract reference price settled at a decrease for

July 2019

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June, following a split settlement. This was the second consecutive decrease, following downward pressure from weak demand for derivative polyethylene terephthalate and movements in crude oil and Asian markets. In US, spot prices moved in line with Asian values while June contracts decreased from May to their lowest levels since October 2017.

Purified terephthalic acid prices declined US$70-80 a ton or 9% during June amid bearish sentiment following the s l u m p in feedstock paraxylene market.

In China, Futures market m o v e d down in line with crude oil prices, while the price spread between spots and futures remained firm.

The average operating rate of plants in China dropped to 81%, implying that supply will reduce in July leaving limited room for prices to go down in a short run. However, since there appear no substantial improvement in demand from end users, the market is very likely to witness increase in inventories levels. As sentiment will remain bearish in the near future and uncertainties over macroeconomic situations, producers will operate prudently. In Europe, purified terephthalic acid June contract settled to its lowest level since early 2018. The settlement moved alongside a split settlement in the upstream paraxylene June contract. This was the second consecutive monthly decrease in the contract and followed downward pressure from weak demand for derivative polyethylene terephthalate and movements in the crude oil and Asian markets. In US, June contract prices decreased on weaker paraxylene contract and unusually weak demand from PET market. Overall, purified terephthalic acid markets are likely to extend the uptrend in a short run as unfavorable macro factors are likely to ease.

NITIN MADKAIKAR

Textile Beacon

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SURAT REPORT SGCCI to organise Yarn Expo from 3 to 5 August Southern Gujarat Chambers of Commerce & Industry (SGCCI) is organising the 2nd edition of Yarn Expo from 3 to 5 August, 2019 at the Surat International Exhibition & Convention Centre (SIECC), Sarsana, Surat. The expo will see participation of around 80 exhibitors, displaying a wide variety of yarns. It is expected that more than 10,000 buyers will visit the exhibition.

This exhibition will focus on International Technology of various types of Yarn. This will bring together manufacturers and suppliers of yarns and related products to showcase their merchandise to discerning buyers from India and overseas, where Manufacturer will showcase their latest collection of Yarns.

Well-known domestic yarn manufacturers will be showcasing their latest yarn products at the three-day exhibition. In addition to yarn from both natural and man-made fibres, yarns on show will also include various types of fancy and specialty yarns like elastic, metallic, embroidery, textured, slub, dyed spun and hundreds of other yarn varieties.

SGCCI has also planned several events which will run concurrently to Yarn Expo 2019 exhibition. There will be a seminar, presentation, group meetings, fashion show to be held during the three day event.

Weavers opposes proposal of imposing anti-dumping duty on nylon yarn The powerloom weavers of the city are strongly opposing the recomendation of imposing anti-dumping duty on the nylon filament yarn imported from China, Vietnam and other Asian countries. The nylon fabric manufacturers feel that the increase in anti-dumping duty on nylon filament yarn will allow indigenous yarn manufacturers to monopolize prices of nylon yarn, thereby creating problems for nylon fabric makers in Surat and other parts of the country.

Under the leadership of Federation of Indian Art Silk Weaving Industry (FIASWI), the weavers had written a letter to Prime Minister Narendra Modi, stating that the initiation of anti-dumping duty on imported nylon filament yarn will ruin the MMF sector. The manufacturers’ lobby has filed an application for re-imposing anti-dumping duty on the nylon yarn. This is a cartel system and it will deprive the weavers of free availability of world class quality nylon yarn from other countries.

The nylon filament yarn is imported from China, Vietnam, Malaysia, Thailand and Korea. The imported yarn’s quality is much improved than the one manufactured in the

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country. The imported yarn is much cheaper than the one manufactured by domestic spinners. The weavers have made a representation to revoke anti-dumping duty on nylon yarn to protect the powerloom weaving industry from the onslaught of the local yarn manufacturers.

Mayur Golwala, secretery of FOGWA said, Nylon filament yarn is the vital raw material for the powerloom weavers in the MMF industry. More than 2 lakh powerloom machines weaving nylon fabrics in the city. The government should not think of only two, three nylon yarn manufacturers in the country, but thousands of weavers and workers who are attached with the industry. We have urge the central government not to accept the recommendation for anti-dumping duty on nylon yarn.

Design development centre ‘FASHIONOVA’ launched in the city To promote the fashion designing and provide a single platform to apparel business, a design development centre, ‘FASHIONOVA’ was recently launched at Udhana area of the city. The city based Institute of Design and Technology(IDT) has started the centre to fulfill the needs from co-working space, technicians, expert advises to cognitive workshops and exposure to the fashion industry.

Anupam Goyal, Founder, ‘FASHIONOVA’ of said, Surat is renowned for its textile and the city had to be dependent on Mumbai or Delhi for unique and latest design trends.

This design development center will bridge this gap. This is the first of its kind of design development center in india and has been named in the Start-up scheme of the Government. The centre has all state-of-the-art machinery and other facilities.

‘FASHIONOVA’ was inaugurated in the presence Parisbased-designer Neona Skane, Bollywood celebrity designer Salim Asgarally, CHASA IDT Director Chandrakala Sanap and Surat industrialists. The objective of this centre is not just to teach fashion design. It will provide market assistance where designer can sell their creative design and earn money. The new center will fulfill the needs of new designs of the city and all types of brands will be able to connect with emerging designers of the country.

Institute of Design & Technology(IDT) has organized its annual event a fashion show, FASHIONOVA-2019” in the city on 30th June. The the young talents of IDT, has showcased their creative designs of several renowned brands of Surat textile industry, including Laxmipati, Four Buttons, Ialichi, Madhupriya, Sitka, Aesha, Aadya, Chirag Fashion, Pure 9, and Crystal Lace.

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July 2019

APPAREL REPORT CMAI ANNUAL APPAREL INDEX AT 1.71 IN FY 2018-19, RECORDS LOWEST GROWTH IN FIVE YEARS The annual apparel index from CMAI clearly reflects that growth in the sector has been falling continuously for the past five years. The Annual Index value of FY 2018-19 dipped to 1.71, the lowest ever in five years.

over the last quarter.

While Big brands (Mid, Large and Giant together) have grown at 6.08 points, much more than the 3.52 points of the previous quarter, this is because they have been pushed ahead to reach 6.93 (over three times) from their previous quarter’s 2.06 points. Individually, Small and Mid brands dipped badly, both to 0.63 from their previous quarter index values. Giant brands too have lost growth at 5.25 from 6.00 points previously.

Sales turnover down as inventory holding goes up

Comparatively, the Annual Index in FY-2017-18 was 2.56; in FY-2016-17 it was 3.43 points. Similarly in FY-2015-16 it was 5.32 points and in FY-2014-15 it was 7.28 points. The table clearly shows how the index has been continuously falling over the years. FY2018-19 was marked by low business sentiment even during the festive season, perceived as the best time to make up for turnover losses, as buying is high at that time of the year. Except the first quarter of FY2018-19, the index values were much lower than comparable quarters in previous fiscal (FY2017-18).

When asked about the reasons for the continuous fall in growth rate in the last five years, Rahul Mehta, President, CMAI, said the industry needs to understand the changes in the overall scenario like the change in spending behaviour; earlier people used to save money and spend on their wants, and fashion was one of them, whereas today’s generation has to take care of so many other expenses of rented accommodation and EMIs etc; so the budget available for fashion and apparel buying is going down. Buying behaviour of the youth itself is changing.

They are spending far more on electronic gadgets and entertainment. Also, with spending through cash liquidity dropping, impulse buying is impacted. One more important aspect, over the years since the ASP (Average Selling Price) of the most apparel products is dropping; the growth in value seems to be impacted.

Growth dips in Q4 FY 2018-19 too CMAl’s Q4 Apparel Index touched 1.55 points, a clear reflection of low growth compared to the previous quarter, 1.87. As earlier, Small Brands sales dipped this quarter, as shown in the table above, and Giant Brands at 5.25 points reported a drop in growth, compared to last quarter’s index figure of 6.00 points. Except Large Brands’ skyrocketing growth from 2.06 points in the previous quarter to 6.93 points in Q4, all other brand groups reported a dip

July 2019

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If sales turnover were to be considered the only parameter for determining the Apparel Index, this quarter the overall Index would have reflected a growth of 0.52, which is lesser than the previous quarter’s 0.88.

Brand Group Wise Apparel Index Comparison

Around 39 per cent brands reported an increase in sales turnover this quarter compared to 48 per cent in the previous quarter. French menswear brand Celio reported positive sales turnover, as Satyen Momaya, CEO, Celio points out. “The increase in sales turnover was due to our quality and we worked on an auto replenish model across our channels.” Similarly, lifestyle brand Monte Carlo gave a positive feedback as Mayank Jain, General Manager, for the brand explained. “The reason for an increase in the sales turnover is we had a strong and good winter.

Weather conditions were good and winter lasted for a longer period.” Adds Shitanshu Jhunjhunwala, Director, Turtle, “The increase in sales turnover was due to better work allocation. We had better sizes and availability of these sizes.” Notably the three brands quoted above are from Large & Giant Brands groups.

Almost 25 per cent brands reported a loss in sales turnover compared to 26 per cent in the previous quarter. Except Large and Giant brands, the other two groups this time reported sales losses. Paresh Dedhia, owner, Dare Jeans, explains, “The decrease in sales turnover was mainly due to a slowdown in business in the market post-

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APPAREL REPORT Diwali. There was a substantial decrease in demand also.”

“The reason for the decrease in sales turnover for us was mainly due to closure of our stores,” observes Shyam, President 109° F.

However, a few brands also managed to decrease their inventory holding. As Deepak Singhla, Marketing Head of Cantabil, says, “The decrease in inventory holding for us was because there was an increase in sales, as store level sales have gone up. Hence, there was no dead stock.” On the same lines, Momaya, Celio, points out, “Inventory holding has actually not increased but has moved. There was more productivity and hence inventory holding has gone down due to replenishment schemes.”

Overall investments are low for the apparel segment this quarter. Fresh investments decreased to nearly 1.56 points, as against 1.62 points last quarter. Nearly 73 per cent respondents reported a rise in investments which is lower than 81 per cent in the previous quarter. The highest investments were done by Mid brands followed by Giant brands.

An average outlook for next quarter Sell through recorded an Index growth of 1.22 this quarter compared to 0.96 of the previous quarter, still showing pressure on fresh good sales. The maximum growth in sell through was reported by Giant brands. Mid brands, however, clocked in the lowest value of 0.23. Nearly 49 per cent brands reported an improvement in sell through, higher than 46 in Q3. However, sell through decreased for a few. As Shyam revealed, “The reasons for the decrease in sell through is the growing online business which has hampered the offline business up to a point.”

Inventory holding in Q4 is 1.75 points; this is higher than 1.6 points in Q3. Almost 61 per cent respondents across brands said their inventory holding moved north this quarter, higher than 58 per cent in Q3, a very high number and this was responsible for pulling down the overall apparel index value. Increase in inventory holding impacts the overall index negatively. Higher inventory holding indicates more stocks in warehouses or shop shelves.

The maximum increase in inventory holding was among Mid brands, causing a low index value; Giant brands on the other hand showed zero change in Inventory holding. Dedhia, Dare Jeans, points out, “Payment cycles have stretched. There is less rotation of funds in the market.”

Around 58 per cent (last quarter 52 per cent) brands say the outlook for next quarter is Average. Generally, Q1 of the new fiscal should be better as fresh summer sales pick up and prior to EOSS in July. However, there is no such excitement as the market has still not recovered from the earlier slowdown. Another factor could possibly be the Lok Sabha elections in Q2 this year which may have resulted in expectations of tepid response.

CMAl’s Apparel Index CMAl’s Apparel Index aims to set a benchmark for the entire domestic apparel industry and helps brands in taking informed business decisions. For investors, industry players, stakeholders and policymakers the index is a useful tool offering concrete and credible information, and is an excellent source for assessing the performance of the industry. The Index is analysed on assessing the performance on four parameters: sales turnover, sell through (percentage of fresh stocks sold), number of days of inventory holding and investments (signifying future confidence) in brand development and brand building.

The Apparel Index research is conducted by DFU Publications

EVENT UPDATE INDIA’S LARGEST APPAREL B2B TRADE SHOW INAUGURATED IN MUMBAI y CMAI’S 69TH NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR EXHIBITS 1062 BRANDS BY 882 EXHIBITORS y Rs. 750 CRORE TO Rs. 800 CRORE BUSINESS EXPECTED TO BE GENERATED DURING 4 DAYS

69th National Garment Fair” from 15TH July to 18th July 2019 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE Complex, Goregaon (East), Mumbai. The Fair was inaugurated today by Mr. Rahul Mehta, President – CMAI.

The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) has organized “India’s Largest Apparel Trade Show – The

While inaugurating the fair, Mr. Mehta stated that business of around Rs.750 crore to Rs. 800 crore was expect-

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July 2019

EVENT UPDATE ed to be generated during the four days of the fair.

CMAI’s 69th NGF B2B Fair is spread over Approx. 7,00,000 Square Feet, covering all the Halls at the Bombay Exhibition Centre, with 882 Exhibitors showcasing 1062 Brands.

This is India’s Largest Ever Garment Fair held so far. The Fair displays leading Brands in Men’s wear, Women’s wear, Kid’s wear and Accessories. CMAI has also published the ‘Show Directory’, popularly known as the Fair Guide. Approximately 50,000 Retailers & Trade Visitors from all over India are expected to visit this Fair.

This B2B Fair would remain open only to Trade Visitors & Garment Retailers. The Business Networking Sessions between the Exhibitors and Agents & Distributors, would also continue this year.

This Fair has been brought by UDAAN , India’s leading B2B e-commerce platform having the Largest Distribution Network for Retailers, Wholesalers, Brands and Manufacturers across multiple Categories. Udaan’s Marketplace services include Credit, Logistics, Marketing & Sales support to Buyers and Sellers on its Platform, facilitating efficient and convenient transactions across the Country.

Through a seamless process, it enables the Buyer to select a Product, Place an Order with Sellers who pack it and dispatch it through Udaan’s Logistics Network.

Mr. Rahul Mehta, President - The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (Ex-Chairman, International Apparel Federation),stated that the biggest problem facing the Domestic Garment manufacturers today is the unrestricted Duty Free imports from Bangladesh, and the back door entry of Chinese Fabrics via Bangladesh.

India has an FTA with Bangladesh, whereby Garments can be exported without any payment of Duty into India. In the absence of any Rules of Origin, Bangladesh manufacturers are importing duty free fabrics from China, converting them into Garments, and exporting in to India – thereby virtually providing duty free access to Indian markets for Chinese Fabrics. It is important to note that the Imports of Garments from Bangladesh has been growing at the rate of 82% over last year, and 161% over 2016-17, and has now reached US$365 million. If this continues, our forecast is that it will only grow faster and imports of garments from Bangladesh will touch US$3.6 Billion by 2024-25. Ironically, exports of Garments from India into Bangladesh is subject to a net duty of almost 125%. CMAI has urged the Government to take immediate steps, otherwise if this growth of imports allowed to continue, the Industry is set to lose 10 lakh jobs by 2025.

Mr. Rahul Mehta demanded that the rules of origin should come into force. A minimum amount of raw materials (fabric) used for garment, which are exported from Bangladesh to India, should be made out of materials either manufactured in Bangladesh or imported from India.

In other words, materials of third country should not be permitted in garments exported by Bangladesh to India.

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In addition, Indian apparel industry should also get duty free access to Bangladesh under the FTA. There is good scope of exports of women ethnic wear to Bangladesh.

On export front, he stated that from October 2018, there has been a recovery and garment exports have steadily increased since then. For the first two months of 2019 -20, there is a month on month growth of approximately 9% over the previous year. The revival in apparel exports is due to the proactive support from the government, which recognizes the huge employment potential of the industry.

After successfully completing Training of nearly 43,000 workmen in the last 3 years, CMAI has been again requested by the Ministry of Textiles to actively participate in the SAMARTH scheme, and it is likely to accept a target of 30,000 additional workmen training in the coming 3 years.

With its headquarter in Mumbai, CMAI also has Branches in New Delhi, Bangalore and Pune.

CMAI has recently moved its Headquarter to a more centrally located spacious Office in order to provide all Services under One Roof. New Office is situated at A -901, Naman Midtown, Senapati Bapat Marg, Prabhadevi (West), Mumbai 400 013.

The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) has organized “India’s Largest Apparel Trade Show – The 69th National Garment Fair” from 15TH July to 18th July 2019 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, NSE Complex, Goregaon (East), Mumbai.

Mr. Rahul Mehta, President –CMAI and other office bearers seen inaugurating the 69th National Garment Fair.

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EVENT UPDATE

HGH INDIA PROVIDES NEW IMPETUS TO INDIAN MARKET FOR HOME PRODUCTS HGH India 2019, the 8th annual edition of India’s wellrecognised trade show for home textiles, home décor, houseware, and gifts concluded successfully in Mumbai on 5th July. Despite incessant rains in Mumbai during this period, the three-day trade show received an overwhelming response with the presence of 700 brands and manufacturers (+15%) from 32 countries as exhibitors and 35,900 trade visitors (+2.9%) from 500 cities and towns across India. These numbers clearly reflected the importance of this trade show for Indian retailers, distributors, importers and institutional buyers to discover upcoming home fashion trends for 2019-20 and source innovative products for their business.

HDC, HGH India once again effectively demonstrated the high potential of value-addition and national brand building around these products.

Home Fashion Trends for 2019-20 were forecasted and presented through a well curated Trends Pavilion and a high quality Trend Book. The trends followed a central theme of Beyond Shapes – Universal Future and were designed specially to suit the rapidly evolving and aspiring Indian domestic market.

Amongst 32 countries present, China had the strongest participation, primarily from the Zhejiang province.

Indian and international exhibitors showcased their latest range of furnishing fabrics, curtains, bed and bath products, decorative made-ups, wallpapers and decorative accessories. Crockery, tableware, storage, plastics, kitchenware, kitchen appliances, cookware, home appliances, gifts, general houseware, travel goods, cleaning and maintenance products, babies and kids’ products, and tenting and camping products were amongst the key houseware products.

Exhibitor Quotes Rajjnish Aroraa Vice Chairman, DC Furnishings

Consistent growth in number of exhibitors and visitors and improving quality of products and presentations year after year since its inception in 2012, proves that HGH India has been useful for Indian and international players as a high potential trade show offering innovations, wide sourcing solutions and new business opportunities. HGH India brings global multi-national brands, leading Indian brands, Large, Medium and small manufacturers, handicrafts and handloom sectors, artisans and crafts persons all under one roof, offering equal opportunities to all of them to offer their products and services to Indian retailers and distributors across the country.

HGH India 2019 was spread over three dedicated halls, each one offering specialised products in the categories of Home textiles and furnishings, home décor and gifts and houseware.

HGH India continued its aggressive promotion of Indian handicrafts, artisans and cottage sector products for the second year. Bringing sectors like handicrafts, handloom, handmade carpets, coir, jute, khadi, cane & bamboo etc. under the common umbrella of Indian Heritage with the support of various Government organisations like EPCH, HMCM, CEPC, COHANDS, KCCI, NSIC, NEHHDC and MH-

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HGH India: Home textiles, home decor, houseware, gifts.

This is their eighth year in succession, and every year I have seen it growing. I’m so happy to see 700 exhibitors here. Outstanding exhibitorship and mind-blowing customers have come in today, on the first day in spite of the heavy rains just two days back. A big thumbs up to the HGH India team; the twelve to fourteen hours of work really worked well. We believe in HGH India and they made it happen. I’m also happy to note, I personally spoke to Mr. Arun Roongta, and he has confirmed to me that they will have a fourth hall next year. That news also gives us a feeling about how the show is coming up and what kind of response it will have. Actually, in the last five years, people have been looking at HGH India to come up with new ideas, new innovations and they look to HGH India as an exhibition where the newest trends are displayed and what direction the industry is heading to. I haven’t had the time to walk around, as I’ve been extremely busy with customers at my stand but I’ve heard that the footfall is about the same at every stall. I wish HGH India all the best and I’m looking forward to HGH 2020.

Abhinav Mahajan, Director, Maspar The response at HGH India has been tremendous, and

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July 2019

EVENT UPDATE we have built a big customer base here. We have seen a lot of growth, as a result, over the last two days. Thanks to HGH India, we have been able to reach out to retailers, and showcase our products, and this inspires us to keep coming back.

Visitor Quotes Deepak Nirmal General Manager - General Merchandise Buying & Merchandising, Aditya Birla Retail Limited.

Vinod Khandelwal General Manager - Head, Household Buying & E com Business, @home - Nilkamal Limited.

I have been coming here since the first year. As a buyer, I will always feel that something is missing, but I have seen the show grow bigger every year, and increase the international presence. HGH India has covered a good spectrum of brands, and should definitely add more in the years to come.

This is my fourth visit to HGH India. I can definitely say that the presence and opportunities that retailers and vendors enjoy here keep bringing me back. It offers good connectivity with regional vendors as well.

Suleman Hirani Partner, Darpan Furnishings

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I would like to congratulate the HGH India team, for pulling off the event, despite the rain. I have found a lot of new manufacturers from Jaipur and Jodhpur. I like the way the stalls have been set up; they are very attractive.

I have greatly benefitted from interacting with new vendors and suppliers, whom I would not have been able to reach, if not for HGH India.

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July 2019

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EVENT UPDATE

KNITWEAR EXPO IN TIRUPPUR DISCUSS ON INNOVATION, ECONOMY The 46 th edition of India International Knit Fair featuring all seasons organized by Apparel Export Promotion Council (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India) under the umbrella of India Knit Fair Association at IKFA Complex, Tirupur from 15 th to 17 th May, 2019 was held successfully.

AEPC in Association with IKFA had organized a Round Table Meet with various Associations discussed on Tamilnadu New Integrated Textile Policy of 2019. Tirupur Textile Industry Members delivered their presentation for the development of our Industry on 15 th May, 2019 at India Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur during the 46th IIKF Fair.

The fair was inaugurated by Kumar Jayant, IAS Principal Secretary to Government of Tamilnadu - Handlooms, Handicrafts, Textiles and Khadi Department in the presence of A.Sakthivel, Chairman, India Knit Fair Association and Vice-Chairman of AEPC, Raja Shanmugham, President ( TEA), Shri Ahill Rathinasamy, President ( KNITCMA), B. Shanmuga Sundaram, Vice Chairman, IKFA, Buyers, Buying Agents, Exhibitors, Trade Members, and Government Officials.

In this 46 th fair there were lot of Knit Apparel collections noticed with Men's, Women's and Kids apparels. Apart from 100% cotton knits, Polyester Poly cotton Blends, Wool, Acrylic, Nylon and Spandex combinations were also show cased. Banana fibre cotton Blended garments were also one of an innovative fibre fabrics showcased in this fair. Garments finished with Bio-wash, Silicon Wash, Enzyme Wash, Stone Wash, Acid Wash, Laser engraved Denim, Velour, Anti-Microbial finished garments were in display to attract the buyers.

Marketing through design development is one of the key concepts for Buyers. This concept has been well received by the Exporters now-a-days to attracting the Buyers and Buying Agents. Buyers who visited this fair of the opinion that more of Technical Garments and New Fashionable Garments ++attracted them very much. A total number of 40 leading Exporters from Tirupur, Coimbatore, Chennai, Mumbai, New Delhi, Ludhiana and Gurugram have participated and displayed their products. They have expressed their satisfaction and have shown interest in participating future events at Tirupur.

Kumar Jayant, IAS, Principal Secretary to Govt of Tamilnadu expressed that India occupies an important position in manufacturing of Ready made Garments, particularly Knitwear Garments thereby boosting India’s economic growth as well as generating employment opportunities.

Such fairs exclusively for knitwear garments showcase to the world about our innovative products and will certainly bring in a lot of business.

A Sakthivel, Chairman of India Knit Fair Association informed that 46th edition of India Knit Fair was organized in the backdrop of the current economic tensions between the US and China. The US has imposed more taxes on its imports from China. This is expected to make India a preferred market for sourcing by the US buyers. While predicting that the situation will be an advantage for the India knitwear sector, he opined that even if orders worth of Rs 10,000 crore are placed, it will benefit our country.

He had deliberated that a MOU was given recently to the Minister of Commerce and Industry, GOI, pointing various steps to be taken for the upliftment of the Apparel Industry.

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Now-a-days, major Buyers are sourcing through Buying Houses and Buying Agents - who will play a vital role in sourcing. Buyers / Buying Agents have expressed their happiness and satisfied with the excellent design and collections displayed in the Fair. In total, 24 Buyers from different countries and 127 Buying Houses / Agents have visited the Fair. Most of the Buying Houses/ Agents who have visited this Fair representing their major Buyers and Brands have sourced for their requirements. The three day event attracted new Buyers from countries namely Saudi Arabia, USA, China, Poland, Jamaica, Sri lanka, UK, , etc. visited the Fair. The Participants have reported that they could get good business enquires more from the Buying Agents and Overseas Buyers and the expected business deal is around Rs. 300 Crores.

IKFA gratefully acknowledges the active participation of Exhibitors, visiting Buyers, Buying Agents and all stakeholders for the great success of this three day event.

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July 2019

EVENT UPDATE INNOVATION LEADS THE WAY AT ITMA 2019 18TH EDITION ENDS ON HIGH NOTE WITH LARGE NUMBER OF QUALITY BUYERS Themed ‘Innovating the World of Textiles’, the 18th edition of ITMA, the world’s most established textile and garment technology exhibition, concluded successfully in Barcelona, Spain.

One of the exhibitors who was pleased with the visitor quality was Johan Verstraete, Vice-President Weaving Machines of Picanol. He explained: “Overall, it has been a good ITMA for us. We came with low expectations, but they have been considerably exceeded. Although we did not get a large number of visitors, the quality was very high. We had many conversations and negotiations, which was somewhat contradictory to the ongoing negative market sentiments.”

An excited Paolo Milini, President & CEO of MS Printing Solutions, agreed: “We are very satisfied with the show. The positive results of ITMA 2019 were made possible thanks to a large number of visitors who came to our stand. We have had over 600 contacts a day, and they come from over 90 countries!”

Entry Point @ ITMA 2019 Venue

The global textile and garment manufacturing industry converged at ITMA 2019, chalking up new records for the exhibition which has been held every four years since 1951. It featured many exciting new product launches and innovative technologies and products, including those that leverage the Internet of Things, by 1717 exhibitors from 45 countries.

CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and owner of ITMA and ITMA ASIA, reported that the industry support from visitors and exhibitors was tremendous, resulting in record-breaking number of exhibitors since its inception.

Mr Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX said, “The digital transformation of the textile and garment manufacturing value chain and sustainability concerns of the industry have driven up visitor interests in ITMA 2019. We had a strong turnout, despite trade tensions and poor business sentiments. Many of our exhibitors were pleasantly surprised with the large number of serious buyers attending the exhibition.

“They were also impressed with presence of new visitor segments, such as bigger numbers of fashion and sports brands. Considering that for this ITMA edition, the exhibition duration has been shortened from 8 to 7 days, we still enjoyed good visitorship.”

ITMA 2019 attracted visitorship of over 105,000 from 137 countries. The top 5 countries where visitors came from were Spain (11%), Italy (10%), India (8%), Turkey and Germany (7%). They were followed by France, United States, Portugal, Brazil, Pakistan, China and the United Kingdom.

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DKTE Received Innovation Award

Launched as a dedicated sector at ITMA 2019, the printing and inks chapter had grown by 40% compared with ITMA 2015, and featured many established and new exhibitors who were keen to exploit the digital printing sector.

VDMA Textile Machinery Association members were also happy with the visitor quality. Regina Brückner, CEO of Brückner Group and Chairperson of the Association, enthused: “A VDMA survey conducted at ITMA 2019 showed that almost 90% of our exhibiting member companies considered both the quantity and quality of visitors as ‘good’ or ‘very good’. Visitors from all over the world came to ITMA Barcelona to discuss new projects.”

ITMA 2019 also provided the platform for the announcement of a comprehensive modernisation programme for Egypt’s textile industry valued at around €1 billion from exhibitors including Benninger, Brückner, EFI Reggiani, Itema, Karl Mayer, Rieter, Savio and Thies.

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EVENT UPDATE The innovation place

ITMA Innovation Lab which was launched at this year’s exhibition. The Platform drew strong interest and participation. It featured about 60 presentations, and was attended by over 900 participants.

In addition, a number of ITMA and co-located events drew over 1,000 delegates. Among the events were the ITMAEDANA Nonwovens Forum, Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forum, Better Cotton Initiative Seminar, European Digital Textile Conference, Tex-Summit Global, Planet Textiles, SAC & ZDHC Manufacturer Forum and Texmeeting by TEXFOR.

Press conference and Innovation Awards Event

Many new technologies were launched, ranging from 3D weaving and knitting to hi-tech nonwovens processes, sustainable chemicals and state-of-the-art garment-making technologies, and wide range of software-powered automation solutions.

“I missed the last ITMA in Milan. After eight years, I find there is a big jump in technology. There are many interesting new developments, such as digitalisation and automation, as well as more eco-friendly products. I came here to also buy equipment for my factories, so this has been a fruitful trip for me,” said Mr Kihak Sung, Founder of Youngone Corporation and President of International Textile Manufacturers Federation.

ITMA collaborated with supporting organisations, many of which sent visiting delegations from Central Asia, South Asia, Turkey and the Mediterranean countries. Among the high-level government delegations that were at ITMA included Catalan Minister of Business and Knowledge Ángels Chacon i Feixás; Governor of West Flanders Carl Decaluwé who led a press delegation from Flanders, Belgium; and the Uzbekistan Vice Minister of Silk Jumaev Olimjon and Vice Minister of Textile Jumaniyazov Fahriddin who led a delegation of 40 people.

Networking Dinner @ ITMA 2019

Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services, which organises ITMA 2019, said: “We are extremely glad that many industry stakeholders see ITMA as an excellent platform for collaboration and sharing of ideas to make the industry more competitive in the face of digital transformation and to explore cutting-edge solutions to future proof their business.”

ITMA Innovation Winners

Another leading industry player, RakhiI Hirdaramani, Director of Hirdaramani and the Manufacturers Committee Chair of the World Federation of Sporting Goods International, said: “ITMA is a meeting of the minds. As much as it is a machinery fair, it’s also about understanding new technologies; meeting with your peers and colleagues from various sectors of the industry to understand the challenges and how to address them. One of the key trends we’ve seen this year, is about sustainability and Industry 4.0.”

Alex Zucchi, President of ACIMIT also shares Mr Beauduin’s view. He said: “This Barcelona edition has confirmed ITMA as the main B2B platform in the textile industry. The many innovations seen here, especially in the field of sustainability and digitalisation, have increased the interest of visitors. It is essential to focus on these issues also for the next edition of ITMA to be held in Milan in 2023.”

The next ITMA will be held in Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy, from 8 to 14 June 2023. Some exhibitors, happy with their participation, have already started making plans for the next show.

Mr Hirdaramani participated in a panel discussion held at the Speakers Platform, one of the components of the

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July 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

BMS VISION EXHIBITED FOCUSING ON INDUSTRY 4.0 , MOBILE MES SOLUTIONS AND SMART TEXTILE MANUFACTURING. Through intelligent wireless networking of all production equipment in the mill, the BMSvision MES solution transfers the huge amount of data originating from the various production machines and processes into meaningful information for the managers. The BMSvision MES suite for the textile industry includes software modules for real time monitoring, reporting, scheduling, preventive maintenance, fabric inspection and traceability. The “Management dashboard” allows the combined presentation of data from different software modules into one single web based report showing important KPI’s at a glance. As such, the manager can have all information related to efficiencies, quality and energy consumption displayed in real time in one single screen, either on PC, tablet or mobile phone.

The complete BMSvision MES suite is now available for both Oracle and SQL Server as database engine.

ITMA Barcelona will also see the introduction of several new BMS products: MyMES is an App available for both Android and iOS and includes a cockpit and an alert module. The cockpit shows the KPI’s and most important production data of the plant while the alert module highlights problem areas that need immediate attention.

informs operators when there is a need to intervene on a machine. As soon as the “Events & Alerts” software of the MES system detects a warning or alarm condition on a certain machine, the operator in charge of the machine is informed as his bracelet starts vibrating and the machine number and type of alarm is displayed on the bracelet’s screen.

BI Connect: With this optional extension to the BMS reporting tool, all data in the BMS database is available for use in standard business analysis tools such as QlikView and Power BI. With these tools, the user can freely search and explore across all data, instantly pivoting his analysis when new ideas surface. Innovative visualizations put all data in the right context allowing fast and smart decisions.

Argus: With its Cyclops system, BMSvision has been a pioneer in the field of on-loom quality control for weaving mills. With its new product Argus, BMSvision again pushes the boundaries of automatic on loom inspection. For the first time ever, a system capable of inspecting unicolor Jacquard fabrics is now available for weavers of top quality products, such as OPW airbags, mattress ticking, …

QT: The widely used QT fabric inspection terminal is now also available as a standalone unit, without the need for a QualiMaster central system.

The QT standalone includes all software for inspecting and cutting pieces and for label printing.

At the end of inspection, a piece map is created and is available for export to third party systems. As such, mills with a small number of inspection frames can have all benefits from this powerful device with a minimum investment.

The BMSvision KnitMaster system is also on display with a live demo monitoring 5 circular knitting machines on the Monarch stand.

Smart Bracelet: This low cost wearable device promptly

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

LOEPFE PRESENTS BRAND-NEW YARN CLEARER GENERATION THE YARNMASTER PRISMA OPENS UP A NEW WORLD Loepfe Brothers Ltd. has been pioneering yarn clearing technology since almost 30 years. At ITMA 2019, the Swiss company presents a brand-new yarn clearer – the YarnMaster PRISMA. With multi-sensor measurement design and new functionalities this next generation of yarn clearers will support spinners all around the world in mastering daily quality control. For the first time, the YarnMaster PRISMA combines new and established

ing in perfect harmony, offers unprecedented possibilities and new levels of precision in yarn clearing.

sensor technologies in one device. Four sensor technologies interact intelligently and ensure unprecedented fault visibility and data quality. The unconventional new concept addresses all yarn quality problems related to material and the spinning process with an universal and multidimensional approach.

The heart of the innovative yarn clearing concept is the simple and intuitive PRISMA operating system. The new PRISMA GUI offers a menu guidance by an intelligent wizard and enables straightforward and intuitive operation.

As an extra benefit, Loepfe’s data management system MillMaster TOP 2.0 is an integral part of the new YarnMaster PRISMA and complements every Loepfe yarn clearer installation. 100% online monitoring of quality data produced by the yarn clearers reduces the need for routine laboratory tests. Effective online quality management is one of the key success factors for winding and results in efficiency and lower costs.

Four sensor technologies Controlling the contamination in yarns is of greatest importance to the spinners. The YarnMaster PRISMA utilizes a sensor for foreign matter detection based on a brandnew RGB-color measuring technology. The new RGB Fsensor illuminates the yarn in the full spectrum of light, enabling the recognition of even the slightest difference in shade and glossiness in any type of yarn and color. The contamination of raw material with white polypropylene from bale packaging is very challenging. To solve this difficult task, Loepfe developed the P4-Sensor, which utilizes the triboelectric effect. The sensor measures electric charge differences, which are caused during the winding process by different raw

The fusion of four sensor technologies into one single sensing head –- YarnMaster PRISMA – guarantees previously unachieved performance and possibilities in quality control during the winding process.

A world of connectivity

materials. This technology is able to detect contamination with white polypropylene very reliable. Beyond these, a world first dual measurement for basic clearing is presented to the visitors. On the YarnMaster PRISMA, the two dominant sensor technologies in yarn clearing are integrated into one single sensing head. This unconventional approach to use an optical and a mass sensor, function-

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Create a life that feels good on the inside,not just one that looks good on the outside.

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July 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS MESDAN® S.P.A., ESTABLISHED IN 1952, IS A RENOWNED ITALIAN MANUFACTURER OF YARN SPLICERS, KNOTTERS AND LABORATORY QUALITY CONTROL TESTING EQUIPMENT. for technical & industrial applications. Special focus on hand-operated MOISTAIR 6981A/E and 6982A/E, the most versatile yarn splicer both in terms of yarn composition and count range spanning from very coarse multifold cotton Ne 1,2 up to very fine plied synthetics. yL a b o r a t o r y equipment for spinning mills, for fiber and yarn quality assessment.

The testing equipment division has grown into a leading textile-testing brand, known as Mesdan-Lab. Mesdan-Lab is one of very few companies able to offer complete QC testing solutions for spinning (fibre and yarn testers), weaving and knitting (fabric physical testing equipment and colourfastness), dyeing & finishing (package dyeing, piece dyeing, continuous dyeing, etc.), as well as comfort analysis (like PPE testing). Besides equipment, Mesdan-Lab supplies calibration reports as well and top quality traceable consumables to fulfil all kinds of testing methods. With the recent acquisition of the ISO 17025 accreditation Mesdan-Lab become an official CALIBRATION laboratory in compliance with this norm.

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Mesdan-Lab equipment is approved by most prestigious garment brands & retailers and used by all leading testing houses. Finally, Mesdan is the official agent in Europe of Thermetrics Inc. (USA), manufacturers of precision instruments for thermal comfort assessment. Its applications spread from traditional textiles (garments) through high-tech sportswear, uniforms, protective clothing and accessories to footwear and automotive industry. y a complete range of yarn splicers for the production of 100% knotless yarn, both for regular yarn and yarns

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Mesdan-Lab division will display a selection of laboratory equipment, here a brief highlight: h CONTEST-S, first time on display the unique automatic cotton stickiness (honeydew) tester, completion of the popular “Mini-Spinning” line, miniature spinning lab scale, one of the most demanded Mesdan-Lab equipment in the last years, particularly interesting for didactic purposes, R&D as well as for sampling and melange producers, Yard Data Logger (YDL), data acquisition software for yarn testing equipment, such as evenness, strength, count, twist, etc., presentation of the fourth generation of the Tensolab tensile strength testing machines, featuring new technology, new design, new operation software, in the Lab dyeing section, focus on the “Lab to bulk” with display of LODO, the forefront of the Mesdan Dyelab product range.

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ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

RIMTEX WIZCAN TRENDS At the recently concluded 18th edition of ITMA, WIZCAN, the breakthrough digital innovation by RIMTEX, fuelled the discussion around Industry 4.0

Global Textile industry is at a cusp of major shift. Industry watchers have identified digitalisation, Automation and Sustainability as the key markers of the new era, which is being referred as Industry 4.0. At ITMA 2019 Rimtex stunned the textile world with WIZCAN, a breakthrough innovation that seamlessly converge the group’s sliver management expertise with digital technology. Rimtex has always been ahead of the innovation curve, this time around they took a giant leap and showcased their vision for Spinning Mill 4.0.

Advent of Sliver Intelligence WIZCAN is an IOT based intelligent sliver management system, which is driven by Rimtex’s proprietary software WISE. What the system has successfully achieved over several ‘real environment’ tests is complete adaptability to every size of spinning mill. Spinners who are looking for high quality of production, get ‘intelligent’ support in management, regulation and quality control at every stage of yarn preparation. The display at ITMA 2019 has garnered a lot of positive response. Mr. Gaurav Parmar, Director at Rimtex Group, shares with us, “ We received excellent response at the show. The visitor flow kept us busy throughout the show. More importantly, we received quality visitors from across the globe, and especially from India, Turkey, Uzbekistan, South America, Central America and South East Asia.”

Shift towards Sustainable spinning ‘Innovating the World of Textiles’ was the theme for the 2019 edition of ITMA; the theme resonates with RIMTEX group’s core ideology of continuous innovation. This got exemplified in their display that included both textile & non-textile products, the entire range had their trademark innovation stamp in place. Their tally of New launches was not limited to WIZCAN. Under the groups spinning rings & ring traveller business, The X-Axis, the company launched X-Optimax spinning rings & travellers.

As per the company release the new product range works

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with all types of Yarns and Material viz. combed cotton, PC blends, 100% polyster, Lycra blends and all MMF. The X-Axis range of spinning rings and travellers is produced using the best-in-class metallurgy and coating technology. With it’s enhanced technology, they have showcased that ‘Maximisation’ of product life cannot be looked in isolation; along with longevity, consistent performance is necessary to generate optimum value. This is a shift in the way spinning rings & travellers are perceived, wherein profitability gets linked with efficient utilisation of energy and other resources, helping the spinners to achieve greater sustainability.

Furthermore the company launched large sized sliver can range, SUMO Cans that work perfectly well with the best of the machines available today. They further enhanced their SUMO can with an ingenious ‘Increased Sliver Loading’ technology. Most other cans in similar range, offers a bigger diameter, but RIMTEX has completely re-imagined this can with a smart can design that adds 10% more load carrying capacity for comparable can sizes. This generated lot of buzz at ITMA Barcelona.

Pushing the envelope for Automation Under the Tango series Rimtex showcased ‘Automated Castor Cleaning Machine’ as well as ‘Motorised Doffing Vehicle’. Both of these are focused on using automation as a tool to augment efficiency of a spinning mill. These products are an outcome of in-depth research backed by years of industry experience. Experts and spinning fraternity have welcomed Rimtex’s push towards greater efficiency and productivity. With Tango, Rimtex has opened up avenues for spinners to build their competitiveness using ‘Textile industry’ specific automated and motorised vehicles & systems.

In the non-textile segment Rimtex group manufactures castors and wheel under the Kalpar Castors brand. They produce more than 650 variety of castors, that serve nearly every industry on the planet. They have a special segment of castors made for varied applications of Textile industry special designs which are dust free, high temperature and chemical resistance. Kalpar has by now supplied over 2 million castors to a range of users across the globe.

No wonder than that RIMTEX continues to hold a numero uno position in the sliver management segment. Digitalisation, Automation and Sustainability - in a strategic move Rimtex group through its range of launches covers the entire spectrum of Industry 4.0. As per the reports, the company has many more strategic expansions in place and in next few quarters there will be more announcements from the group.

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July 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

RETECH – ENJOY SWISS QUALITY !

Except for cheese, chocolate, knifes and watches there are also very famous heated godets for extrusion lines engineered and produced in Switzerland as to be seen during ITMA in Barcelona.

technology, which enables a very economic operation, an interesting further development has taken place, which rounds off further the Retech godet roll range.

Retech showed its whole heated godet product line in an interesting and memorable way which got a lot of attention during the 7 days of the recent fair in Barcelona including the various innovations related to it. Many visitors stopped by and had been impressed by the variety and technical possibilities of the Retech godets, the new temperature controller UCR-6 and the temperature transmitter UTR-4A presented within the new concept named “blue line” as well as the innovations on the on-line yarn tension sensors, mainly for the extrusion field.

- UCR-6 temperature controller for multi-zone godet rolls (1-6 heating zones)

Retech has shown with success its new temperature control concept named “blue line”

- UCR-6P temperature controller for 6 independent heating positions (1 zone STS godet rolls or other heating components) - USC temperature converter (to convert the digital into an analogue signal) - UTR-4A measured value temperature transmitter as a technical and robust further development for the hostile working environment of man-made fibre manufacturing.

The booth itself was a great attraction and generated many positive feedbacks. We had been glad to show and offer Swiss hospitality to our worldwide guests – to just enjoy Swiss quality in either way!

ITMA Barcelona was a big success – the blue thread moves on - and Retech will continue its innovative and customised way with all its products to achieve the best solution and benefit for every individual customer.

Following main innovations had been shown as world novelty to the audience: Retech as expert in monitoring your yarn tension to perfection Retech has developed the proven yarn tension sensor with HALL technology into a new direction. In Barcelona a version for application in extrusion was shown. A sensor, which is provided with additional characteristics, in order to be able to withstand the even greater demands and influences of a spinning process at high speeds (4000 m/ min. +) and higher yarn counts (3000 dtex +).

Retech as expert in drawing your fibres to perfection has shown a new godet generation as their second main innovation in the area of today’s core business of heated godet rolls for the drawing and heat treatment of all kinds of synthetic yarns. Based on the proven and efficient motor technology by means of permanent synchron magnet

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39

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

SSM - UNVEILING INNOVATIONS AT ITMA 2019 SSM announces their participation of the forthcoming ITMA in Barcelona, Spain from June 20-26, 2019. The Swiss based SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, the inventor of the electronic yarn traverse system, will continue their tradition of trend-setting with the presentation of breakthrough technologies in hall 6, booth C 201.

The well-known XENO platform comes up with the first and only self-regulating backpressure system in the world: preciforce™, for a guaranteed package consistency. The precise density control ensures that an optimal package can be produced, which leads to improved properties in the subsequent process. Furthermore, the next step of blade winding will be introduced on the XENO-PB: powerblade™, combining the advantages of blade winding and electronic yarn traverse. With the SSM XENO machines producers got the right tool in their hand for a perfect winding result and maximum productivity.

Last but not least, SSM will show their advanced knowledge in Sewing Thread Winding and Air Covering, providing a proper solution for the most flexible yarn production.

Besides the displayed applications in winding and texturing, SSM provides a wide range of renowned textile machines. A detailed overview about SSM machinery and supported applications of the textile process chain can be found under Winding Solutions at www.ssm.ch.

The demand for fancy effects with air-textured yarn is increasing, therefore SSM have been working hard to offer yarn manufacturers more possibilities in this field. As a result SSM got a whole family of devices for producing fancy yarns with specific effects, such as fancyflex™ to fashion unique fabrics and increase their competitiveness.

SSM_XENO-PB_kpl_300dpi

SSM preciforce_2019

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SSM_XENO-PB_kpl_300dpi

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July 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

PRODUCTION OF INNOVATIVE YARNS USING THE AIR-JET SPINNING PROCESS • News from the inventors of compacting • The most economical rotor direct process • ESSENTIAL: New modules of the Rieter Digital Spinning Suite • After Sales: Solutions for optimizing the installed basis • Innovations from Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, SSM and Suessen At ITMA 2019, Rieter showcases innovations for all four spinning processes that are established on the market.

These innovations are designed to reduce raw material, energy and labor costs, while also increasing productivity during production of the yarn quality required in each case. Solutions to increase the flexibility of the spinning mill are also presented. In addition, Rieter presents two solutions for the production of innovative yarns.

Fiber preparation The blowroom VARIOline with the new UNIClean B 15 brings significant improvements in terms of energy consumption and the cleaning result for all spinning processes. The same applies to the new high-performance card C 80, which offers an unrivaled level of productivity.

Ring and compact-spinning process To increase the cost effectiveness of the ring spinning and compact spinning process, Rieter reveals the new comber E 90, the new roving frame F 40, the piecing robot ROBOspin and three different compacting units that can easily be installed on and removed from a ring spinning machine: COMPACTdrum, COMPACTapron and COMPACTeasy.

ESSENTIAL – Rieter Digital Spinning Suite The new innovations for the four spinning processes are supplemented by two new functionalities of ESSENTIAL: ESSENTIALorder and ESSENTIALconsult, which are available to all Rieter customers free of charge with the purchase of a new machine. In addition to the existing modules ESSENTIALmonitor, ESSENTIALmaintain and ESSENTIALpredict, the next steps are demonstrated: ESSENTIALlab for integrating laboratory data into the spinning mill management system, ESSENTIALoptimize, the intelligent recipe management system, and ESSENTIALautomate for integrating the transport and logistics systems.

After Sales The growing digital service offering complements new solutions for optimizing the installed base. With the PSM Drafting Motor, Rieter After Sales offers a significant improvement on the machines G 33 and K 44; and with the Energy Saving Support Disc it offers the possibility to make considerable energy savings on rotor spinning machines.

Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, SSM and Suessen The Rieter Group’s component manufacturers also introduce further innovations for day-to-day operations, such as the Bräcker ring traveler C1 ELM udr and the new SOLIDRING B 188 from Suessen. In preciforce, SSM presents a system for optimizing the bobbin build-up on precision winding machines. SSM also reveals another yarn innovation: fancyflex is a technology for manufacturing slub yarn for textured yarns.

Rotor spinning process Innovations that bring considerable improvements in efficiency for the rotor spinning process are also presented.

The draw frame module RSB-Module 50 can be used in combination with the high-performance card C 80 and can be configured to a highly efficient direct process with the new semi-automated R 37 or the fully automated R 70. The new, cost-effective rotor spinning machines are characterized by low energy consumption, high productivity and high machine availability with low raw material costs.

Air-jet spinning process There are innovations for the air-jet spinning process too: The process for producing a very attractive yarn made of 100% combed cotton is presented. At the Rieter booth, let yourself be convinced that this process is extremely costeffective, despite the combed out short fiber content.

July 2019

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41

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

MIMAKI HYBRID PRINTER DEMONSTRATION EMPHASISES ACCESSIBILITY OF TEXTILE PRINTING • New hybrid printer enables direct-to-textile or directto-transfer printing on entry-level printer • Flexibility of press enables smaller print service providers to broaden applications and enter new markets Mimaki Engineering, a leading manufacturer of inkjet printers and cutting systems, today announces the first global technology demonstration of a brand-new hybrid digital textile printer from the TX300P series at ITMA 2019 (Barcelona, Spain, 20-26 June, Booth B110, Hall 3). Uniquely featuring both direct-to-textile and direct-to-transfer print capabilities, the new printer achieves unparalleled flexibility in ink combinations and substrates – opening new profitable opportunities for businesses.

The new printer is an evolution of the Mimaki TX300P-1800, with the added capability of printing directto-transfer. Crucially, print service providers will benefit from enhanced versatility in terms of fabrics, applications and targeted markets. This affords smaller print service providers with an opportunity to provide a full range of textile printing applications with just one system. Aligned with Mimaki’s Total Solution Provider approach, the printer is compatible with Mimaki’s full range of pre-treating, steaming and washing equipment.

“The textile market is still relatively early-on in the adoption of digital printers, with most textiles being printed in the conventional way and a lot of large players dominating the market. With this new hybrid printer, Mimaki has provided an affordable solution that lowers the barriers to entry for smaller print providers,” says Ronald van den Broek, General Manager Sales EMEA. “For larger volume production houses, the printer is valuable for smaller

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runs and the myriad benefits digital production provides.”

Interchangeable platens enable the hybrid nature of the printer. When printing direct-to-textile, excess ink that penetrates through the fabric is drained by a platen with an ink-receiving ditch. This can quickly be swapped out for a vacuum platen, suitable for printing onto heat transfer paper. The printer can also be configured with three different ink combinations, comprising textile pigment/direct sublimation or textile pigment/sublimation transfer or direct sublimation/sublimation transfer. This means more versatility and more possibilities, making it an ideal entry model.

Reliable productivity is assured with Mimaki Core Technology including a Nozzle Check Unit and Nozzle Recovery System. This enables the printer to automatically clean print heads when nozzles malfunction, and when nozzles are not repairable, switch any missing or damaged

nozzles with working nozzles without stopping production and without affecting final print quality. An adjustable head gap also means the distance from print head to substrate can be changed preventing print heads from touching substrates.

“The features of this new hybrid printer will enable textile and garment manufacturers to achieve unparalleled flexibility and enhanced application opportunities for increased business growth. With this product Mimaki is effectively democratising accessibility to textile printing, and with solutions like this in the market, we expect to see improved growth of digital printing in textiles,” van den Broek concludes.

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July 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

SAURER POWERS CUSTOMERS’ CREATION THROUGH ITS INNOVATIVE SOLUTIONS Our motto for ITMA 2019 highlights our purpose – since Saurer’s inception, our innovations have been the driving force behind our customers’ creations – from yarns to garments, tires and artificial turf. For Saurer, this year’s exhibition marks the beginning of a new era. Over the past years, we have committed ourselves to gaining insight into our market and truly focusing on our customers’ needs. Based on our clients’ feedback, we have increased our product offering, marking further strides towards our goal of becoming a comprehensive solution provider. In response to customer requests, we now offer all staple fibre spinning solutions. Saurer’s overarching mill management system ties our offerings together: it allows all our customers to gain a detailed overview of their operations and makes optimisation easier.

While our E³ (energy, economics and ergonomics) principle still forms the basis of our design philosophy, we are now focusing on adding intelligent technology. Our machines’ self-learning features optimise the speed to suit the material being processed. The Saurer products within a given system can be linked, which saves on labour and makes production processes more efficient and less wasteful, with a major impact on profitability.

machine setting time while the intelligent thread watcher SmartMon drives the precise and fast detection of yarn breaks, on both shuttle and needle side, which drastically lowers mending costs.

Sensors are fundamental to any data collection effort.

Saurer’s twisting machines will also feature an integrated device that measures tension and monitors yarn twist in industrial and carpet yarn as well as tire cord and staple fibre. This innovation is unrivalled on the market.

A time for festivities This ITMA is also a special one for us, as several product lines as well as our service offering are celebrating anniversaries. The TechnoCorder has been in existence for 20 years, we launched the first Saurer ring-spinning machine 70 years ago and entered the embroidery sector oneand-a-half centuries ago with a manual machine. Over the decades, we have continuously adapted our products

Data analysis made easy – for all our customers Whether they are in spinning, embroidery or twisting, all our clients can benefit from Saurer’s mill monitoring system Senses to analyse production, quality and machine data. As an added advantage, this system is also compatible with third-party machines. Users can tap new optimisation potential by controlling the production process and making it more transparent.

Clients will also have the option of linking our machines and the new laboratory equipment from our Autolab series, which premieres at the exhibition, to the software platform. The powerful combination of analytical capacity gives the user a clear picture of all the processes making up their operation in real time.

Increased automation as a vital concept As vital yarn characteristics are already determined during the preparation of the raw material, we set ourselves the goal to be able to control and manage the entire process, ensuring best sliver quality for the five end-spinning processes. With the addition of the new innovative Autocard and the draw frame Autodraw, we have further extended our spinning product portfolio.

As with all our products, we have also integrated automation technology in our embroidery machine. The new Automatic Rear Carriage adjustment helps in reducing the

July 2019

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to ensure we are at the cutting edge of innovation.

Experts take the stage On the occasion of these festivities held at ITMA 2019, we will have the pleasure of hosting a number of specialists who will provide insights into our sector, including: h Prof. Thomas Weide, whose subject area is Textile Technology of Spinning, is from Hochschule Niederrhein, Mönchengladbach, and will speak on “Development in modern spinning technology” (11:30 on 21 June). h Thomas Fröis, CEO of the start-up Textible and winner of the Futurezone Awards 2017 in the category Start-

43

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS up of the Year. He will reveal how he built a successful business with his products, manufactured using shuttle embroidery (11:30 on 22 June). h Dr Uwe Möhring, Managing Director of the renowned TITV Greiz, the Institute for Special Textiles and Flexible Materials, will hold a presentation entitled “New opportunities with embroidery in the field of smart textiles” (16:00 on 22 June). h Daniel Bücher, Researcher at ITA, RWTH Aachen, will talk about “Artificial Intelligence decision systems for textile applications” (11:30 on 25 June). h Dr Walter Arne, Fraunhofer ITWM, Kaiserslautern, and Erik Bell, ITA, RWTH Aachen, will present the latest on “Digital twins how to improve package dyeing” (16:00 on 25 June).

We are eager to welcome you to Stand B201 in Hall 6 at Fira de Barcelona to reveal the culmination of our hard work, share market insight as well as gain valuable knowledge about our sector by listening to our customers.

SAURER’S NEW WEBSITE: CLEAR, INTUITIVE AND RESPONSIVE Our new website in our fresh corporate design went live to coincide with the start of the exhibition. Customers and stakeholders can find to the desired products, services and company information in a few easy navigational steps. The site’s new structure and appearance reflects a modern company with a focus on digitalisation. Using our streamlined site, visitors will be able to gain a clear overview of what we have to offer – comprehensive, tailored solutions that include far more than just machinery.

AUTOAIRO, THE NEW GAME CHANGER IN AIR SPINNING,

IT IS THE BIGGEST ATTRACTION AT THE SAURER BOOTH - ZAGIS IS SAURER’S FIRST CUSTOMER FOR THIS INNOVATION The Autoairo air-spinning machine, which the innovation pioneer Saurer launched at ITMA 2019, is a sensation, because it defines new benchmarks in productivity, efficiency and especially automation in the lucrative air-spinning market. The interest from visitors and the spinning industry in general has been overwhelming.

The Autoairo has autonomous spinning positions with individual drives, integrated intelligence and a digital piecing unit. Twenty-four piecing operations can be carried out simultaneously with SynchroPiecing 24. Compared to other machines on the market, the piecing capacity of the Autoairo is roughly twice as high. The Autoairo requires 40% less space than air-spinning machines with a onesided design. This means that spinning mills’ floor area can be smaller, which reduces construction and air conditioning costs. In this way, the return on investment is accelerated. With MultiLot, up to four lots can be spun on the Autoairo at the same time. In addition, seamless lot changes during ongoing production are possible. With PilotSpin, test packages can be manufactured while the other spinning positions simply continue with normal production. LED strips at each spinning position signal, among other things, that cans need to be replaced soon.

This ensures rapid intervention by personnel without the need for cumbersome tours of inspection.

Autoairo with SynchroPiecing or Turbostart – high efficiency is guaranteed

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July 2019

ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS

SAURER’S CABLECORDER - A SUCCESS STORY The CableCorder CC5 is a winning further development Saurer can celebrate the 30th anniversary of its CableCorder with impressive figures. With more than 1 900 CableCorders sold, around 270 000 spindles have been put into operation in the last 30 years. The CableCorder for production of high-quality tire cord is a permanent fixture in the tire industry. The fifth generation of the CableCorder will appeal to customers with numerous innovations. It provides Saurer’s customers with decisive competitive advantages: they benefit from higher efficiency, lower energy consumption, a smart spindle concept, modern quality monitoring, improved ergonomics, flexible automation solutions and the integration of the CableCorder into Senses, the Saurer mill management system.

Key features of the CableCorder CC5 h Reduced spindle gauge due to optimised thread balloon diameter h Further energy savings as a consequence of the adapted spindle pot geometry h Sensor-based control system for compliance with quality parameters h Integration into Senses, the mill management system, for monitoring and evaluating production data h Servo-assisted creel, new thread guide elements and new Cord Regulator for greater user-friendliness h CC5-TFO variant for production of yarns in the twofor-one twisting process and CC5-3PLY variant for production of symmetrical triple tire cord.

INTELLIGENT EMBROIDERY SOLUTION Saurer presents the intelligent embroidery solution. At this year’s exhibition, we are proud to showcase a fullyfledged embroidery solution that offers a wide range of customisation options for customers. The Epoca 7 shuttle embroidery machine features enhanced automation technology and a new application device. It also incorporates modernised CAD/CAM design software and a new mill management system.

The embroidery machine Epoca 7 sets new standards in terms of productivity, with an increase of up to 25% compared to its predecessor. It also boasts a speed of up to 700 rpm. The machine requires 5% less energy than its forerunner, even when machine speed is increased by 18%. In terms of savings, this gives the customer the edge to total cost of ownership.

We are committed to sustainability and strive to ensure that our products are energy efficient, minimising the impact on the environment.

Automation solutions The new automatic rear carriage adjustment helps in reducing the machine setting time. The rear carriage width can be set automatically according to the yarn properties, resulting in a substantial reduction in yarn breaks. The intelligent thread watcher SmartMon drives the precise and fast detection of yarn breaks, on both shuttle and needle side, which drastically lowers mending costs by up to 70%. In an environment where cotton is used, cotton dust pollutes the machine, resulting in early wear of the moving parts. With the new overhead cleaner – CleanGuard, this phenomenon is significantly reduced.

Enhanced application device The HeadLine system with sequin, cord and the new LaserHead redefines and pushes the boundaries of embroidery applications and designs. The laser technology drives the precise cutting of virtually all synthetic and natural fabrics.

Modernised CAD/CAM platform EmStudio incorporates all design workflow from sketch to production on a single platform. This modern tool provides the full solution from embroidery drawing, punching, visualisation of the design, product optimisation and productivity analysis to archiving design with information and machine settings. The intelligent stitch editor iSed optimises the quality of embroidery stiches.

New mill management system Senses Senses is a new innovative control and analysis tool.

Senses allows to collect and analyse the production, quality and machine data. The advantage is total transparency and the optimization of production processes. The result is enhanced efficiency and increased profitability.

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VIEWS FROM INDUSTRY EXPERTS

VIEWS FOR ITMA 2019 Mr. Uday Khadilkar, VP – Marketing, Birla Cellulose Overall a very good technology show, good opportunity to meet machinery manufacturers one on one and to discuss issues of our mutual interest.

Our visit was also to identify technology partners to address few issues being faced by the value chain and global retailers in Man Made Cellulose Fibre based products e.g. Residual Shrinkage in 100% Viscose knitted fabrics – which is expected to be below 5% but is difficult to achieve with available technology, Depth of Black colour in Digital prints, Cost of Digital prints etc.

We could discuss possible technology solutions with identified technology providers from Germany & Italy. Upon joint working and evaluation of the equipment & processes, we shall promote such solutions with our COE (Centre of Excellence) as well as other LAPF (Liva Accredited Partnership Forum) partners. This will certainly help our value chain & retailors to win consumers.

Digital printing is evolving very fast and we could witness tremendous change in last 4 years. Many had presented their high speed machines which will reduce the cost of

printing whilst improving the efficiency & quality . This is good for the industry and will help in wider penetration of specialty products as Birla Modal & Excel.

Mr. Gautam Dhamasia, Narmada Spinning , Rajkot No much drastic technology change in Spinning , Rieter has some automation . Toyota has good technology in Ring spinning . Weaving , not much considerable change apart from some power consumption techniques.Processing side : dyeing and Printing have drastic change new and interesting things to see.

Mr. Mahesh Maheshwari, Nimbark Fashion Ltd. Nothing much great in spinning, except Toyota launched new Ring spinning technology which will implement in industry after 1-2 years. Dyeing with new technology which is sustainable for efficiency of power, water, dyes absorbency, time efficiency etc to make production cost effective. Digital printing have good innovations. Today industry is running on its 85% efficiency and 25% units closed in few weaving clusters of India. This shows depression of growth in industry. New machinery investment decision will be delay till the next big move.

SPINNING INDUSTRY CONDITION AND EFFORTS NEEDS TO BE TAKEN In prevailing market condition, Near-term prospects of cotton spinning mills look bleak the differential in prices between domestic and overseas markets is an additional challenge due to minimum support price for cotton also there is increase in by 2% for FY20. While as an industry, we strongly feel the Farmers should get their due share and fair prices, but our view is Balance has to prevail.

North & South India based Spinning Mills are cutting the yarn production almost 50 – 60% which is no surprise.

Small and medium sized spinners are facing multiple challenges. Lack of easy access to working capital and letter of credit and Cash Credit facilities from Banks, and inventory holding costs has increased the suffocation. Most of the mills carry little inventory of cotton to run their mills and may not be in a position to buy from global market or the Multi National Company who hold stock and trade profitably in this adversity whereas the producers who contribute in Make-in-India vision are profusely bleeding. Weak demand is mirrored in the recent 8-10% drop in cotton yarn prices. In other words, high domestic cotton prices, poor liquidity and weak consumption by textiles pose a threat to profit margins of mills going forward.

We know that followings are natural Laws 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

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Demand & Supply.

Law of saturation.

Change of Priorities.

Image building.

Honesty to yourself, our profession & our nation.

Profit Sharing.

Spinning Mills should try Positive efforts: 1. This is temporary phase and this is right time for Spinning Mills to think again and again and categorize spindles, work force, power, maintenances, Quality etc.

2. Think for Change of Product & Change of Market as well as Customers for better Cotton: Yarn Ratio.

3. Improve quality (avoid purchase of bad grade cotton) to produce best quality product and achieve best rates. Remember, this may happen by Truly Professional Expert Marketing Management not marketing

by Mill Owners.

4. Targeted Quality of product may be achieved by combined team & Team Leader -a) Capable, Knowledgeable, Experienced, Full of Confidence - Team Leader (President), not at all a person always think to save their job like supervisor. b) Knowledgeable, Capable, Experienced and Honest Maintenance Head. c) Hard Working Production Manager. d) Strong Technician & Truth Speaking SQC and Research Head. e) Qualified, Knowledgeable Engineering Head. f) Capable HR Head.

5. Textile Mills should not ignore & focus on Welfare of workers by - Cleanliness of Toilets, Canteen, Workers Residence, Food Arrangement, introducing better HR Policies, Behavior of Top Officials etc.

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July 2019

BUDGET ANALYSIS

ANALYSIS OF DEMAND OF GRANTS FOR TEXTILE SECTOR IN BUDGET 2019-20 Particular

2017-18 (Autual)

2018-19 (Revised)

2019-20 (Budget)

% Change (2019-20 to 2018-19)

72.51

78.36

82.00

4.6%

Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS)

1,904.95

622.63

700.00

12.4%

Procurement of Cotton by Cotton Corporation under Price Support Scheme

102.68

924.00

2,017.57

118.4%

Total-National Handloom Development Programme

468.98

400.59

456.80

14.0%

Total-National Handicraft Development Programme

217.06

240.61

286.17

18.9%

In Rs Crore Total-Establishment Expenditure of the Centre Central Sector Scheme/Project

Total-Integrated Wool Development Programme

29.14

5.30

29.00

447.2%

Total-Development of Silk Textiles

542.50

600.61

740.00

23.2%

Total-Development of Jute Industries

149.18

28.04

34.55

23.2%

Total-Powerloom Promotion Scheme

114.91

106.18

159.08

49.8%

Textile Infrastructure Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP)

40.00

20.00

20.00

0.0%

Remission of State Levies (ROSL)

1,830.57

3,663.85

-

-100.0%

Total-Textile Infrastructure

1,914.36

3,729.83

58.55

-98.4%

Integrated Scheme for Skill Development

100.00

42.00

100.50

139.3%

Technology Mission on Cotton

-

0.01

0.01

0.0%

Research and Capacity Building

Technology Mission on Knitwear

-

0.01

0.01

0.0%

Technology Mission on Technical Textile

-

0.01

0.01

0.0%

Total-Research and Capacity Building

151.72

93.99

142.24

51.3%

Total-North East Textiles Promotion Scheme

259.80

112.60

125.00

11.0%

Total Central Sector Scheme/Project

5,855.28

6,864.38

4,748.96

-30.8%

Other Central Sector Expenditure

(11.14)

0.52

0.52

0.0%

Total Budget Allocation

5,916.65

6,943.26

4,831.48

-30.4%

by CITI

July 2019

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‘‘

‘‘

Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.

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SHOW CALENDAR AUGUST 2019 2-4

GTE 19 Gandhinagar / India www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com

3-5

Yarn Expo 2019 Surat/India www.yarnexpo.sgcci.in

9-12

TEXFAIR 2019 Coimbatore/ India texfair@simamills.org

10-12

GARTEX Texprocess India New Delhi/ India www.gartexindia.com

21-23

21-23

22-25

29-31

17-19

YFA Ludhiana / India http://yfatradeshow.com

13-15

CTG Phnom Penh/ Cambodia www.camboexpo.com

INTEX SOUTH ASIA Colombo / Srilanka www.intexfair.com/

16-18

TECHNOTEX 2019 Mumbai/ India www.technotexindia.in

TexHub Istanbul / Turkey www.texhubistanbul.com/tr/

20-22

Techtexil INDIA Mumbai / India techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com

20-23

VTG 2019 Ho Chi Minh city/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com

25-28

SHANGHAITEX 2019 Shanghai / China www.shanghaitex.cn

27-30

WEAVES 2019 Erode/ India http://texvalleyindia.com/

YARNEX Tirupur/ India http://yarnex.in PREMIERE VISION Paris / France www.premierevision.com

Vibrant Terry Towel Global Expo Solapur / India www.vibrantterrytowel.com Yarn Expo 2019 Shanghai/ China https://yarn-expo-autumn.hk.messefrankfurt.com

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NOVEMBER 2019

International Sourcing Expo Melbourne / Australia www.internationalsourcingexpo.com

IITEXPO MUMBAI 2019 Mumbai/ India www.pdexcil.org

25-27

FILTECH Cologne/Germany www.filtech.de

12-14

24-26

25-27

22-24

SOURCE INDIA 2019 Mumbai/ India http://www.srtepc.org

Textile Asia Lahor / Pakistan www.textileasia.com.pk

25-27

OCTOBER 2019

MTG Yangon/ Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com

20-22

25-27

CHINA INTERNATIONAL KNITTING FAIR Shanghai/ China http://en.phvalue.org

1-4

SEPTEMBER 2019 12-14

27-29

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabric Autumn Shanghai/ China https://intertextile-shanghai-apparelfabrics-autumn.hk

DECEMBER 2019 5-8

ITMACH INDIA Gandhinagar / India www.itmach.com

5-8

ITES Gandhinagar / India www.itsexhibition.com

18-20

YFA Bhilawara/ India http://yfatradeshow.com

20-22

YARNEX Ludhiana / India http://yarnex.in/

CHINA INTERNATIONAL FASHION FAIR Shanghai/ China http://en.chiconline.com.cn/

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July 2019

INTERVIEW LEADER IN RIBBON AND NARROW FABRIC MACHINERY INDUSTRY BY INNOVATIVE APPROACH wards preventive maintenance and production planning have already been launched.

Our portfolio, which we will present at ITMA 2019, will surely underpin our reputation as a world market leader in the narrow fabric industry.

Growth In general, today’s markets are moving fast. Our customers are confronted with short lead times connected with high requirements in terms of quality and design. Therefore digitization with regard to the production process including our services is one of the main topics, we are working on.

We are strengthening our competitiveness through innovation, which clearly sets us apart from our competition and underpins our position as a market leader in our industry.

We are constantly working on innovative products and technologies. Besides our own development efforts, we are cooperating with universities and institutes. This strategy incorporates a broad and profound expertise to always ensure a state of the art solution.

Future technology

ROBERT REIMANN CEO , Jakob Muller Group Company’s Vision is to achieve customer satisfaction through innovation and superior quality of our products and services. The Jakob Müller Group is the no. 1 supplier of systems and solutions for the ribbon and narrow fabrics industry, providing everything from warp preparation to the final product on a one-stop-shop basis.

Expansion plan Our development plan, however does not refer to the production process only. At the same time we are working on the digitization of our services. We have recently released our service portal “mymueller®”. Besides ordering spare parts with a real time information about the delivery status, this browser based system enables our customers to download manuals and to scroll the spare parts catalogue. – via desktop, tablet or smartphone.

Our new service portal can be the access point to our production data acquisition MÜNET, a modular software, which includes a lot of tools and functions to monitor and to control the production. Further development steps to-

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One of the main future topics in our industry will be the digitization of the production process in the context of the Internet of Things (Industry 4.0). We are therefore working in a very close partnership with the Digital Capability Center (DCC) at the University of Aachen in Germany.

Together we have built up a model factory “Industry 4.0” mainly based on our machines, where we produce a woven bracelet with an integrated RFID-chip. The process is fully digitized. The finished bracelet enables an individual login at each machine. We are not only gaining a lot of experience out of this project but also offer applicationoriented workshop, trainings and events, which can be booked by interested customers for their specialists and management.

Branding Strategies in India and International Market As a company with worldwide set ups on one side and with globally acting customers on the other side, our branding strategy does not differ from market to market.

Our main target is to ensure, that the worldwide perception of the “Müller”-brand is characterized by customer benefits in terms of innovation, quality and service.

We are working on the digitization of our internal processes as much as we do on our products and services

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INTERVIEW the heating to be switched on and off, and the pre-selection of four warmth levels, but also shows the battery charging status. Nonetheless, what does the walker do when the battery is flat? Luckily, the boot contains components for inductive charging and a USB plug via which the battery can be provided with the required energy via a cable A lot of innovation has been done in the field of needle weaving. Jakob Müller is showing the latest developments on the booth at ITMA 2019

NFM® 53 4/66 HIGH-PERFORMANCE NARROW FABRIC NEEDLE LOOM and digital marketing is only one part of it. This is an ongoing, challenging process for all people involved, which however offers a lot of opportunities.

ITMA 2019 update INNOVATING THE WORLD OF NARROW FABRICS – JAKOB MÜLLER GROUP AT ITMA 2019 The Jakob Müller Group presents only new developments, which will be released and exhibited for the first time at ITMA 2019.

A lot of innovative solutions and applications are being shown – among others the MDW technology (Multi Directional Weaving) - a technology, which constitutes a global first! Based on this technology, Jakob Müller has developed a unique product:

VELVEDGE® – REINVENTING THE LABEL The new VELVEDGE® selvedges replace hot wire, ultrasonic and laser label slitting systems. Consequently, they are ideally suited to top quality clothing that is worn directly on the skin. VELVEDGE® is therefore particularly attractive to brand manufacturers of articles such as sportswear, as the label remains attached to the clothing in the long-term.

The very same technology can be applied on a narrow fabric needle loom and is shown based on a NFM® 53 2/84 MDW® NARROW FABRIC NEEDLE LOOM WITH SPECIAL LAYERING DEVICE On this machine, Jakob Müller is showing a special tape with a conductive thread, which finally goes into a Mammut® outdoor hiking boot with a heated insole fitted with a temperature sensor, electronic control and temperature regulation, as well as a switch for Bluetooth linkage with a smart phone. The related app not only allows

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The high-performance NFM® 53 4/66 narrow fabric needle loom is the latest product from the Jakob Müller company and has been designed for the production of light to medium-weight elastic and non-elastic tapes. The “M” in the machine designation stands for the word “modular” and for customers, means simplified modification and enlargement possibilities, increased efficiency and higher productivity.

NFMJ 80 6/66 HIGH-PERFORMANCE NARROW FABRIC NEEDLE LOOM WITH JACQUARD DEVICE The high-performance NFMJ 80 6/66 narrow fabric needle loom is the world’s largest machine of its type and is naturally designed and built by the Jakob Müller company. The SPE3 jacquard unit has 1,536 functions and thus enables the weaving of elastic and non-elastic tapes with very fine threads. The jacquard narrow fabric needle loom on display at the fair operates using the high-middle-low principle and 768 functions are available for actual patterning.

MD 4/85 NARROW FABRIC NEEDLE LOOM FOR MEDIUM-WEIGHT TAPES AND BELTS The MD 4/85 narrow fabric loom is a new product from the Jakob Müller Group and is designed for the production of medium-weight tapes and belts. The demand for this type of lifting and load securing product has steadily increased during recent years and in general the machines available on the market for the manufacture of such items have two weaving heads only. However, in order to create a more favourable ratio between the machine footprint and production output, Jakob Müller decided to equip a machine with four weaving heads. As a result, at a speed of 800 rpm and (theoretical) efficiency of 100 %, production amounts to roughly 480 meter of tape per hour!

Another milestone has been reached with the develop-

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ment of the new rapier machine for the production of labels:

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INTERVIEW MÜGRIP® MBJ8 – THE NEW RAPIER MACHINE FOR LABEL PRODUCTION Jakob Müller AG will unveil its new MÜGRIP® MBJ8 rapier loom for the manufacture of labels. With a production speed of 680 rpm and a maximum reed width of 1,380 mm, the machine offers the efficient output of labels, images and technical narrow fabrics with slit selvedges. The machine will be shown with a lot of new and innovative features making it the most efficient one in the market.

The group’s brand COMEZ will show their latest innovations in crochet and warp knitting:

DNB/EL-32-12B ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED WARP KNITTING MACHINE WITH DOUBLE NEEDLE BED Electronically controlled warp knitting machine with double needle bed for the production of articles for technical and medical uses as well as garment textiles.

The machine is available now with 12 electronically controlled guide bars for development and production of advanced technical fabrics.

800 ACO/EL CROCHET KNITTING MACHINE Crochet knitting machine with compound needles, electronically controlled yarn tension device and stitch density regulation, for the production of a wide range of technical textiles, with lock-stitch structure, both elastic and rigid.

The compound needle machine is available now with 800 mm working width. It is equipped with 8 weft bars controlled by chain links with involute profile.

A lot of innovation has also been done in the field of dyeing and finishing. Jakob Müller shows a development, that meets the increasing requirements in terms of ecology:

NEW ECO WASH TANK Jakob Müller launches a new type of wash tank for the continuous dyeing of narrow fabrics.

This wash tank module is part of the MFR dye lines. It combines highest efficiency in washing process for best colour fastness with significant lower demand on water, chemicals and energy to save resources and costs.

expert at drawing your fibres to perfection Rolls, godets, heating elements and custom built machines for heat treatment and drawing of synthetic filaments. Win – OLT® yarn tension on-line monitoring systems.

Engineered and produced in Switzerland

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Retech Aktiengesellschaft CH-5616 Meisterschwanden 51 info@retech.ch www.retech.ch

INTERVIEW POST 80% GROWTH, LIVA EXPANDS PRODUCTION IN INDIA, OVERSEAS some systems which can happen, so we believe in collaborations like sustainable apparel coalition where you have the high index and for that factory module what we call it FEM ( Facility Environmental Module).

Also what was appealing to the global brands was after we had joined ZDHC ( Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals).

4. The chain doesn’t end with us in fact from forest to retail there are seven tears from one to seven tear members there, how does a brand make sure that all of these happens.

5. Communication-as-a-branding service.

How Liva ensure that their channel partners also use sustainable products / systems / accreditation ?

MANOHAR SAMUEL Senior President - Marketing Grasim Industries Limited

Liva as a brand is on the strong belief that sustainability and fashion can co-exist. The four-year-old brand claims to have rocked the market through its innovative campaigns, strong value chain and quality. In an exclusive chat with Textile Value Chain, Manohar Samuel, Senior President Marketing at Grasim Industries Limited, speaks on the success of Liva as a brand, quality standards and plans for the brand in the days ahead. Edited excerpts.

LivaEco brand basic concept and USP We strongly believe that our natural credentials being from the forest, would be useful for the entire industry.

We are planning to leverage and take forward to the consumer at the later stage. So, after launching LIVA, tasting success, we found that most of the global brands were very keen to have sustainable-enhanced fiber brand and we had already started working with them, they were essentially asking five things, 1. Can we have certified forestry which is a forestrywardsship council in all what we can do so that shows that we are not cutting trees?

2. Though we are cellulars from the trunk of a tree and cotton is from the flower of a plant, it requires a conversation what we call as a regeneration process from trunk cellulars to a fiber cellulars that requires chemicals, water and the way we treat it, so we ask ourselves if we can have something which is more sustainable in the manufacturing process of the regeneration for cellulars.

3. Recognition of these attribute in some element or

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There are two layers we are put on this sustainability journey. One is about how we as the starting point do things right and though how do we create an Ecosystem. We call it an Ecosystem of getting it done right and also communicated and collaborated with other members in the chain. We had a training session and first worked with the brand, understood the supply chain, the brands, the garment manufacturer, wet processor, fabricator, spinners. Through training, we made them understand how our block chain works and how they should have a chain of custody a system which permits all these to seamlessly flow.

They also know how our tracer inside the fibre is there and how they need to segregate and process it right. That is as far as visibility and transparency go. Next, to the core elements of sustainability forestry wardship council which is for the forestry it goes with the system on a chain of custody and the blockchain, so that is taken care of. We have a LIVA standard for sustainability, we go do an audit through STS, they have the best standard which we have agreed on LIVA Sustainability. We studied how we can differentiate ourselves from China especially and we found a lot of good aspects. For example in Tirupur, we already have Zero Liquid Discharge we use clean energy wind or solar so these are not talked about.

Our training for the brands in India has been slightly different. We have shared with them what are the prospective advantages, particularly in India. Water is the major subject of concern one of the oldest area in the world is India and the population is growing with 16% while we have only 3.8 % only water. That sort of gap where industries are growing and we need to cut water more and for that, we have done plenty of things that will give maximum quality with minimal usage of water.

Please explain on your channel forum in deep?

LIVA accredited partner forum (LAPF) today has about 180 wet processors consisting mostly of woven and knitting, knit processing and woven processing. We will say one-

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INTERVIEW third is netting and two-thirds is woven and now within LAPF not all are supplying to all the top brands. We had done a reverse mechanism as we know we have found out the suppliers to the global brands and then worked out a way to create a win-win situation for them. For the brand ‘W’ we are already working with the global suppliers.

Please explain your certifications Soon, we will be having LAPF sustainability certificate this year so that it will be a step towards recognizing the value chain. We also have trophies and certificate for LIVA quality now this is something on sustainability. We feel this will have a key business impact part also because global brands clearly wants that sort of support from us which is an Ecosystem. They will not be able to do this entire ecosystem whereas we are able to do that in India. Moving forward, we are now extending this to Indonesia, Bangladesh, China and Turkey. The quality measures should be in place as your brand will be on the stake if there is an issue in the value chain.

And most of the companies fail to have an effluent treatment. In processing, if you see effluent, water, wastewater and emissions are not there in most of the spinning weaving and knitting houses. The other aspect is what these companies have to do with energy- be it spinning, weaving, knitting. Now, everybody has energy-conservation concepts we are building up now in the new system.

We have also formulated seven parameters through an energy audit. We are also keen on any research around this.

If any channel partner does not follow the system as per accreditation parameters, what company will take steps against them?

We have stringent policies. We had already removed eighteen people who didn’t follow our quality standards in weaving or knitting. We promise the consumer that we offer natural fluid and fashionable fabric which has passed through an accredited value chain for quality guarantee. To maintain that we are even tightening the norms and rules according to the global trends.

I take this opportunity to thank Bitraw, who is our agency who are assuring quality assurance. We are impressed with their ‘modus operandi’ of the audit. Our team, along with them will randomly choose companies and audit their process. Unlike a regular enforcing, their audits are a valuable addition to the channel partners. They do not just look at the quality norms. They have their own process system in place and out of that, they also provide their evaluation report called ‘improvement report’.

Post developing the report, team Bitraw consults with the channel partner and help them on the areas of improvement beyond LIVA also. Our intention is not to discriminate anyone but to maintain the brand value of Liva, we [manufacturers and channel partners] have to work together.

What are the latest innovations you are bringing in place for LIVA?

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We have LIVA ECO system with collaboration with every stakeholder from forest to retail. We work majorly on five aspects- forestry, manufacturing excellence, high index Zero Discharge, water management, and tracing. We bet big on the tracing feature. This will help anyone differentiate a normal fibre and Liva Eco which has natural product in it. The feature helps in long-lasting aspect as you can find the quality of the product even after twenty wash.

Through QR Coding system, we are enabling the tracking and thus we will be able to track the entire value chain on who is the spinner, weaver, knitter, processor and more.

Thus we are not only guarding the value chain but also increase the confidence of the brands as the Liva Product that touches the end-customer is of the right quality.

Please explain on your marketing and communications Our branding strategies involves three levels of communication- telling the clear features, second of the benefits out of the features and communication relating to credentials, media campaign, public-relations, making use of the influencers speaking on the product as well as the features. Those above-mentioned will be given in a simple language where a customer can understand.

How is the reception for Liva outside India?

Across the globe, we are marketing LIVA ECO. Even though we are not at consumer engagement, we work with brands across the world. Taking an Indian brand outside the globe is a different ball game altogether. Volume plays a key role for a brand to reach the global customer directly. Of course, we will definitely look at global consumers but in a phased manner. In the immediate future, you can expect smaller communication like hang-tags but not focused communication.

So right now what is the percentage of the revenue for this domestic phase and international phase From India, we can say about ten percent of our sale is going for export. Because we make some specialty fibers only in India though we are a global organization. We also have some India-specific products keeping the psychology of Indian consumers and Indian value chain. There are also some products which we make in India for global needs. Thus our focus will remain equally for both the domestic and global market.

Please explain your production and expansion plans.

Yes, LIVA campaign is four-year-old and our sales had grown 80% in India. On the production side, we are expanding fast. We are coming up with a new facility in Karanj, Gujarat this year. Our expansion is also two wayswe have to shift a few plants in Indonesia, Thailand, China.

Thus, the exports from India is very less unless we make those products only here. We are also investing heavily in domestic manufacturing. Today we are at more than Thousand Three hundred tons per day and almost another forty percent increase is expected to happen. We are having another six hundred tons per day through another new expansion, at Gujarat.

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INTERVIEW

NATIONAL JUTE BOARD AIMS PROMOTING AT INTERNATIONAL MARKET the global concept”, Debdoot says. “I notice the jute usage is increasing in aspects like files in offices, gifts items, curtains and in select home design solutions too”.

According to him, the National Jute Board is keen on promoting jute in the retail sector both domestic and international markets. “We are providing special schemes and credits for retailers using jute as an alternative for plastics. Also, we find the increase in the awareness of consumers that a jute bag can be long lasting which they can use for multiple times compared to a plastic bag”, he said.

Jute board also firmly believe that the product is agro-renewable, bio-degradable and carbon positive fibre. There is a gradual shift towards the use of more and more ecofriendly natural products. At present nearly 500 billion plastic carry bags are used per annum across the globe and the number is gradually increasing. Total of 6000 MT plastic garbage remains uncollected every day in India.

DEBDOOT MUKHERJEE Asst. Director (Market Promotion & Scheme Implementation) National Jute Board National Jute Board, the agency for framing and implementing policies and programmes that promote and facilitate the growth of Jute Sector, domestically and increase the share of the global jute goods outside India bets big on the homegrown product overseas.

Speaking on the usage of Jute beyond the consumer-driven side, Debdoot says on the importance in geotextile is increasing. “Jute Geotextiles (JGT) is a natural variant of man-made geotextiles loosely called ‘Geosynthetics’ used majorly in construction projects. With Geo textile, jute has been used successfully to address a host of geotechnical problems encountered in road construction, river bank erosion, slope erosion, embankment stabilization, and soft soil consolidation.”

Plans ahead: On a concluding note, Debdoot said, through expos and regular sessions, the Jute board is promoting jute in European and American countries. Our communications and campaigns also focus on making people opt for jute on environment-friendly concerns. “We try to convey everyone that plastic in the soil can damage the fertility while jute is easily degradable and become organic manure for further cultivation”, he concluded.

Advt.

In a chat with Textile Value Chain, Debdoot Mukherjee Asst. Director (Market Promotion & Scheme Implementation), says that India being one of the leading manufacturers of Jute in the world is taking all steps to ensure the product is known in the global arena. According to him, the usage of Jute is beyond what everyone thinks.

“Of course, even today jute is used for the packaging of food products. However, thanks to the recent awareness among people on the usage of plastic, globally there is a great demand for an alternative textile. Jute fits in that category exactly and Jute board wants to advantage from

Jute In Geo Textile:

Export & Import

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INTERVIEW IJMA FORESEE STRONG GROWTH OF JUTE IN INDIA hadeo, Rameswaram, Tirupati, and Titaghur and more.

According to the available sources, the export of Jute from India in all different forms during the financial year 2017 is more than 1800 crore.

Speaking on the technology used in the manufacturing of jute, he says that, most of the machines are brought from China. According to him, the key aspects the business owners in the industry expect is highly productive with best quality output with less intervention of manpower.

Manish also says that the next innovation in the sector is to bring the weight of the jute. “If we are able to manufacture a particular kilogram of jute in a particular bag, the next innovation would be on how to increase more jute in the same bag”, Manish says.

MANISH PODDAR Chairman, Indian Jute Mills Association Indian Jute Mills Association is the flagship industry forum for jute mills in India. The forum takes to government and other bodies on the key challenges faced by the industry people.

In July 1902 the Association was named as the Indian Jute Mills Association. In 1931 the Indian Jute Mills Association was registered under the Indian Trade Union Act, 1926.

Thereafter, the Association was incorporated under the Companies Act, 1956 on the 28th July 1989.

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Speaking to Textile Value Chain, Manish Poddar, Chairman of the association, says, “India is the global leader in this segment and jute is completely a homegrown product. Jute was first set up by the Scottish. From the packaging material, post modernization had happened and new product lines had come.”, he says further adding that the years to come will be bright for the jute industry as such.

Some of the key clusters where active jute mills present are Champdany, Delta, Howrah, Kamarhatty, Kanoria, Ma-

Some of the key works of association broadly concerns liaison with Central and State Governments, provide service to members, promote trade and public relation, promote research, product development and foster goodwill and better understanding among all members engaged in the business and trade of jute and discourage and avoid unhealthy competition, restrictive trade practice in all matters relating to the business and trade of jute. The forum also conducts regular activities and meetings for the members on various topics that concern the day to day activities for the mills and for long term perspective.

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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore July 2019

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Learn about the trends, developments & opportunities. Share knowledge and fine-tune ideas CONFERENCES & SHOWS: “Sommet-De-Couleur- 2019” By SDC International “World Costume 2019” Fashion Show By ISFT College & Institute Largest Textile Machinery Exhibition of 2019 in India

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