June 2017 by TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN MEDIA

TEXTILE

VALUE CHAIN

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Innovation

June 2017

Volume 5

Issue 6

in Textile Business

8 GST Views from different Market 8 Interview : Universal Robot & Resil Chemical 8 One belt- One Road : Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Initiative

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2015-17 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar- 75, posting date 29/30 of month | Pages 56

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EDITORIAL

Welcoming New Revenue System of India Incorporation...!!!

ny change is always revolted by people across the world, whether its new monetary system or new political party or new idea..!!! Change is the challenging the herd mindset of the people. Right now, Entire India buzzing around the new One Nation, One Tax system ie GST (Good & Service Tax).

Textile being a minimum entry barrier industry & heritage based, majority of industry is dominated by MSME with fragmented cluster. New tax structure which has been implemented recently is good for organised sector that pays & receive commercial transaction by organised way ie by bank or organised channel. But majority of our Textile Sector do not follow organised channel for commercial transaction without having any official books in income tax or any business tax. India being a part of global village, India Incorporation revenue structure should be at par with the global standard. So ruling government of India , decided to have new revenue system in which from grass root level to top level all included in the part of revenue of India. But, Non contributor or minimal contributor and unorganised sector are opposing new Revenue / Tax system of India. Now, being a part of Indian system, whether we like it or not, we need to pay revenue as per new ruling government. Ruling and past government given many benefits/ rebates to this industry to be self sufficient, but as industry still we are not mature enough to understand the importance given by government.” Textiles India 2017” trade exhibition, new initiative taken by Ministry of Textiles and GOI, tried to incorporate entire value chain contributors, from Cotton growers to Organised Retail / Fashion Designers, all are under one roof and I think they are partially succeeded. In a global economy, we are not only contributor to Indian economy but also part of human community. Every new change only happens for good. Let’s Welcome and enjoy new tax / revenue system with our open mindset. Wish you all productive business in new Tax System..!!! Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor & Publisher All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

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CONTENT 14 & 44 NEWS COVER STORY: Innovation in Textile Business

June 2017 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha T.

INDUSTRY

Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

Delhi Representative office : Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085 Email : knitexperts@rediffmail.com Tel : +91-9818026572

16- Disruptive Innovation – Approach for Today’s businesses by Mr. Rushin Vadhani 18- Hagfish Slime threads by DKTE Professors 20- Solid State Polymerization and Enhancing Crystallinity and molecular weight to improve tensile property of polyester yarn by Mr. Digmber Chavan & Mr. P. V. Kadole 22- Chanderi Weaving- An Exclusive art of India by professors of SVVV, Indore INTERVIEW

25- Mr. Pradeep David, GM of Universal Robots, India & Sri Lanka 30- Mr. M.S. Vijayan, Joint MD of Resil Chemicals GLOBAL FOCUS

27- One belt – One Road: China’s big initiative creating massive business opportunities by Mr. Arvind Sinha SHOW REPORT

33- Technotex India 2017 34- HGH India 2017 MARKET REPORT

35- Yarn Report GST REVIEW

38- by Mr. Aleem Faizee, Malegaon 40- Surat Report 41- Views from Mumbai Wholesale Market 42- SHOW CALENDAR

Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond

Page 24: Keny Fabrics

Back Inside : Boalamo

Page 26: Suzuki Suitings

Front Inside : Raysil

Page 45: Tuff Plast

Page 3: Premier Fabric

Page 46: Deep Textiles

Page 4: Varney Fabric

Page 47: MBR Group

Page 5: SGS Innovation

Page 48: Sanjay Plastic

Page 7: Parekh Agencies

Page 49: ITES

Page 8: Techtexil India

Page 50: SKBS

Page 9: Oerlikon

Page 51: Hari Fashions

Page 10: IATF

Page 52: Garmek Panipat

Page 11: RSWM

Page 53: Texfair 2017

Page 12: ITMACH India

Page 54: SGS Silk Mills

Page 15: Amith Garment

June 2017

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NEWS

Ingersoll Rand launches Next Generation R-Series Rotary Screw Air Compressors in India IE3 premium efficiency motor will help deliver significant energy savings and the optional variable speed drive (VSD) will further decrease energy demands. With the launch of next generation R-Series, we continue to push the edge of innovation to help our customers achieve real business results, including cost reductions and lower total cost of ownership.”

ngersoll Rand®, a global leader in compression technologies and services, today introduced newmodels to itsline of Next Generation R-Series oil-flooded rotary screw air compressors,whichprovide a more energy-efficient solution for customers with high capacity air requirements.The RS200 to RS250 models rotary screw air compressor will reduce energy cost by approximately 10% for large manufacturing facilities. TheRS200 to RS250 modelsareavailable withthe new, state-of-the-art single-stage airend, or the two-stage airendthat increases airflow by up to 16 percent. The new fixed-speed modelsare10 percent more efficient compared tolegacy products, while the variable speed option is up to 35 percent more efficient compared to the industry average. Commenting on the launch, Amar Kaul, Chairman and Managing Director, Ingersoll Rand India Limited said, “Around the world, businesses turn to Ingersoll Rand to redefine reliability and efficiency. The next generation Rseries will help our customers do just that by delivering world class efficiency, increase uptime and deliver the right solution for operational excellence. The new series will enable our customers in India to be more competitive in the global environment by boosting their productivity with a state of the art airend that delivers as much as 15% improved efficiency and 16% greater airflow capacity. The

“The ability for these compressors to deliver outstanding efficiency without compromising reliability meets the increasing demands of industries to increase productivity while reducing energy use,” saidKevin Kosobud, Portfolio Leader, Oil Flooded Compressors for Compression Technologies and Services at Ingersoll Rand. “Our Next-Generation R-Series RS200 to RS250modelshelp customers increase overall system reliability and decrease their total cost of ownership with new state-of-the-art features and performance enhancements that save them tens of thousands of rupees.” Ingersoll Rand has added these models to the Next Generation R-Series portfolio allowing customers who run 24/7 and rely on large amounts of compressed air tohave equipment that is as reliable as their demand. Accordingtointernal testing, efficiency and design improvements on some of the high capacity compressorsdeliver up toINR 23.4 Lakhs energy cost savings over a two-year periodpercompressor compared to previous models . At the core of every Ingersoll Rand Next Generation R-Series compressor is an airend that is specifically designed to improve overall system efficiency. In addition to the enhanced single-stage airend, the RS200 to RS250 models arealso available with the newtwo-stage airend. This twostage airend is the most efficient airend available today.

Each compressor comes standard with Progressive Adaptive Control (PAC) Protection, VShieldTM technology, floating coolers and Ultra Coolant. These featureshelp keep equipment running efficiently and maximize uptime for facilities that are manufacturing around the clock. y PAC Protectionis a unique algorithm developed by Ingersoll Rand and is integrated in the controls system within each compressor. The system monitors key performance parameters for when consumable partsare nearing the end of their life,or if operating temperatures are reachingdesign limits. In these situations, the controls adjust the parameters to keep the machine running without overloading the motor, preventing unnecessary shutdown. y V-Shield technology safeguards all critical fittings by securing them with o-ring face seals in a method that is largely free from distortion. Leaks are virtually eliminated, meaning performance isn’t sacrificed, regardless of how many reconnections are made. y The floating cooling system from Ingersoll Randcontains heat exchangerswith finger-tight connectionsso they can expand and contract as needed. This new design improves overall system reliability, because welded connections reduce the ability for heat exchangers to expand and contract, which is the number one reason they fail. y Ultra Coolant is formulated to last up to 8,000 hours, which is twice as long as other rotary lubricants. Ultra Coolant keeps compressors running at peak performance, minimizing downtime and lowering lifecycle costs. y All Next Generation R-Series air compressors are equipped with Xe-series controllers, which allow easy,intuitive access to, and control of, the compressed air system.

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June 2017

NEWS

Indian Textile Industry Aims to Reach US$650 Billion by 2025 Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA Indian Prime Minister sets the goal for Indian textiles sector to reach US$650 billion by 2025. Mr. Narendra Modi, Honorable Prime Minister of India, while inaugurating India’s largest ever textile meet, Textiles India-2017 on June 30th in Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India heralded the strength and capacity of the Indian textile industry. Speaking extemporaneously in Hindi and English thrilled

June 2017

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a large audience in Mahatma Mandir, Gandhinagar with statistics about India’s textile industry and outlining the opportunities for the sector. Using a slogan, “farm to foreign,” the Honourable Prime Minister, emphasized the need for increasing the exports to reach the target of US$ 650 billion by 2025. Speed, scale and quality are necessitates for Indian textiles to compete against countries like China, said the Prime Minister. Innovation and research are needed to meet the demands of consumers in other countries as culture, life style and fashion trends are different. He also emphasized some specific areas such as organic dyes, which need attention. This scribe was in the audience while the Prime Minister was delivering the inaugural address at the mega textile event that had over 1000 exhibitors and 15,000 registered buyers/delegates from many different countries. Ministry of Textiles, Government of India organized the 3-day event, which attracted a large technical audience and general public.

COVER STORY

Disruptive Innovation – Approach for today’s Businesses

oday’s business world is extremely saturated. Pick any niche and you’ll see multiple companies fighting each other for dominance. When the markets are so competitive, a business needs to do something really unique to stand out. It needs to innovate, understand its potential customers, and cater to their wants even before they realise them; it needs to disrupt the market. And this sort of thinking isn’t anything new. Companies have been doing it for years without the fancy tag attached to it. They thought outside the box and they broke the rules; and in doing so, they created a unique and unassailable position for themselves in the market and in their customer’s lives. A disruptive innovation is an innovation that creates a new market and value network and eventually disrupts an existing market and value network, displacing established market leading firms, products and alliances. The term was defined and phenomenon analyzed by Clayton M. Christensen and coworkers beginning in 1995. Since the early 2000s, “significant societal impact” has also been viewed as an aspect of disruptive innovation. Disruptive innovations tend to be produced by outsiders and entrepreneurs, rather than existing marketleading companies. The business environment of market leaders does not allow them to pursue disruptive innovations when they first arise, because they are not profitable enough at first and because their development can take scarce resources away from sustaining innovations (which are needed to compete against current competition). A disruptive process can take longer to develop than by the conventional approach and the risk associated to it is higher than the other more incremental or evolutionary forms of innovations, but once it is deployed in the market, it achieves

a much faster penetration and higher degree of impact on the established markets. What they have shown is that good firms are usually aware of the innovations, but their business environment does not allow them to pursue them when they first arise, because they are not profitable enough at first and because their development can take scarce resources away from that of sustaining innovations (which are needed to compete against current competition). In Christensen’s terms, a firm’s existing value networks place insufficient value on the disruptive innovation to allow its pursuit by that firm. Meanwhile, start-up firms inhabit different value networks, at least until the day that their disruptive innovation is able to invade the older value network. At that time, the established firm in that network can at best only fend off the market share attack with a me-too entry, for which survival (not thriving) is the only reward. Metamorphosis of Mass Apparel Textile Business Model: The US apparel market is to a large extent a mass retail market. The major resellers are – with very few exceptions – in total control of the various sales channels and ‘brand spirit’ is not very relevant. In recent years US fashion firms set out along a path of total

– or almost total – subcontracting of their design and production processes. Many of them simply surrendered control of their own brand and lost the means to differentiate themselves clearly from the competition. These companies are now aware of the problem and have recently started to backtrack fast, with a return to designing on home soil and manufacturing, if not at home, then at least in neighbouring countries such as Mexico. What’s important for these US apparel companies is to find a way of re-vitalizing their brand image. In Europe, fashion markets vary enormously from one country to another. In France and Italy, for example, fashion brands, especially luxury fashion brands, have never looked healthier. They’re benefiting from strong consumer demand in emerging countries, as they serve as a social marker for these populations. These days we see that, whatever the geographical market, the differentiator in most cases lies in the development and impact of the brand. So the business models have moved towards a focus on brand value. Innovating in activities: From efficient to intelligent One of the most dominant beliefs governing today’s big companies is that improving efficiency is the most reliable way to increase profits. Especially if market requirements change only gradually, companies have plenty of time to minimize the production costs of their existing products. Today, of course, constant efficiency improvements are a prerequisite for a healthy bottom line. They may be necessary, but they’re not sufficient. In today’s rapidly changing markets, many products become obsolete before they have been “leaned out,” so managers get less time to optimize production processes fully. Companies are therefore building flexibility and embedded intelligence directly into the production

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COVER STORY process to help them adapt quickly to changing needs. Embedded intelligence can, over time, help companies to improve both the performance and the value-in-use of products and services and thus to improve their pricing. In essence, digitization is empowering businesses to go beyond efficiency, to create learning systems that work harder and smarter. Disruptive innovations don’t catch on with mainstream customers until quality catches up to their standards. Disruption theory differentiates disruptive innovations from what are called “sustaining innovations.” The latter make good products better in the eyes of an incumbent’s existing customers: the fifth blade in a razor, the clearer TV picture, better mobile phone reception. These improvements can be incremental advances or major breakthroughs, but they all enable firms to sell more products to their most profitable customers. Apple iPod and iPad Apple is the best and foremost example of disrupting the market and creating a new one while doing so. The company changed the way we listened to music with the iPod when the rest of the world was hooked on Sony’s Discman. They did the same for tablets with the iPad when everyone was clamouring for smartphones. By releasing niche products time and again, Apple established itself as the foremost brand in a market that they had created. And this was all because of Steve Jobs’ idea of innovation

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which revolved around his tenet: “A lot of times, people don’t know what they want until you show it to them.” 1. Disruption is a process. Most every innovation—disruptive or not—begins life as a small-scale experiment. Disrupters tend to focus on getting the business model, rather than merely the product, just right. When they succeed, their movement from the fringe (the low end of the market or a new market) to the mainstream erodes first the incumbents’ market share and then their profitability. This process can take time, and incumbents can get quite creative in the defense of their established franchises. For example, more than 50 years after the first discount department store was opened, mainstream retail companies still operate their traditional department-store formats. Complete substitution, if it comes at all, may take decades, because the incremental profit from staying with the old model for one more year trumps proposals to write off the assets in one .

3. The mantra “Disrupt or be disrupted” can misguide us. Incumbent companies do need to respond to disruption if it’s occurring, but they should not overreact by dismantling a still-profitable business. Instead, they should continue to strengthen relationships with core customers by investing in sustaining innovations. In addition, they can create a new division focused solely on the growth opportunities that arise from the disruption. Of course, as the disruptive stand-alone business grows, it may eventually steal customers from the core. But corporate leaders should not try to solve this problem before it is a problem. Disruption theory does not, and never will, explain everything about innovation specifically or business success generally. Far too many other forces are in play, each of which will reward further study. Integrating them all into a comprehensive theory of business success is an ambitious goal, one we are unlikely to attain anytime soon. Key References :

2. Some disruptive innovations succeed; some don’t. A common mistake is to focus on the results achieved—to claim that a company is disruptive by virtue of its success. But success is not built into the definition of disruption: Not every disruptive path leads to a triumph, and not every triumphant newcomer follows a disruptive path. If we call every business success a “disruption,” then companies that rise to the top in very different ways will be seen as sources of insight into a common strategy for succeeding. This creates a danger: Managers may mix and match behaviors that are very likely inconsistent with one another and thus unlikely to yield the hoped-for result. For example, both Uber and Apple’s iPhone owe their success to a platform-based model: Uber digitally connects riders with drivers; the iPhone connects app developers with phone users.

www.knowledge.instead.edu www.hbr.org •

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/disruptive business model •

www.managementstudyguide.com •

http://www.claytonchristensen.com/ key-concepts •

http://www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/strategy-andcorporate-finance/our-insights/ disrupting-beliefs-a-new-approach-tobusiness-model-innovation

Rushin H.Vadhani

AGM-Marketing AYM Syntex Ltd. (Formerly Welspun Syntex Ltd.)

COVER STORY

“Hagfish Slime Threads”

ucins and protein threads are the two major important parts of hagfish slime produced from slime glands. Hagfish release slime in different amounts, depending on the circumstances. They produce slime in small amounts while feeding on a carcass, a behaviour that might be designed to ward off other scavengers. Hagfish slime threads, which make the fibrous component of the defensive slime of hagfishes, it consist of primarily proteins from the intermediate filament family of proteins and possess impressive mechanical properties that make them attractive biomimetic models. The hagfish slime threads are tapered at both ends, and the hagfish slime threads have high performance properties that’s hagfish slime can be a resource for tomorrow’s natural fabric. Hagfish slime protein thread is 100 times thinner than the average human hair. The slime contains tens of thousands of 1−3 μm diameter threads composed of proteins from the “intermediate filaments” family of proteins (IFs). IFs are ubiquitous 10 nm cytoskeletal elements found in most metazoan cells and also make up the fibrous component in mammalian αkeratins. The primary structure of IF proteins is a tripartite molecular organization with a central α-helical rod domain flanked by non-α-helical head and tail domains. Slime threads and their constituent IFs possess a number of attractive properties that make them promising biomimetic models for production of protein-based biomaterials. Hagfish slime threads that are stretched in water and dried have excellent material properties. IF proteins have the ability to self-assemble into networks of high aspect ratio filaments (i.e. 10 nm diameter, > 103 nm in length) in aqueous solutions, which raises the possibility that fibres could be spun

from IF gels. In addition, slime thread proteins lend themselves to expression in bacterial vectors as they are neither large nor repetitive like spider silk genes. History of Hagfish Slime Hagfish, also called Northern hagfish, slime hag and slime eel, are elongated, eel-shaped, bottom-dwelling marine organisms. They are characterized by soft, scale-less skin and four pairs of tentacles (barbells) surrounding the mouth and opening for the nasopharyngeal duct, used in respiratory water intake. The mouth of hagfish contains a protractible and retractable orange colored cartilaginous plate that bears two sets of sharp teeth often referred to as the rasping tongue. The tongue uses grasps and burrows into food resources. The skeleton is made entirely of cartilage with 5 to 15 pairs of gills. This species is jawless and lacks both a sympathetic nervous system and spleen. Hagfish have poorly developed eyes covered by skin and a layer of muscle and are considered nocturnal creatures with a superior sense of touch and smell. The hagfish has no true fins except for a primitive tail fin created by a fold in skin. Hagfish have numerous specialized glands on either side of the abdomen that produce enormous quantities of mucus or slime when it is stressed or provoked. Tiny fibres reinforce the slime making it strong and difficult to remove for protection against predators. The hagfish escapes its slime cocoon by tying itself in a knot and then passing the knot down the length of its body in order to wipe the slime

away. Hagfish vary in color from a mottled grey-brown to a red-grey upper and a white to pale grey on the underside (Fig. 1) Hagfish typically grow to 40.6 to 81.3 cm in length. Variations in body color correspond to changes in the color of the sea bed. Atlantic hagfish (Myxineglutinosa) is a cold water species that prefers a soft, muddy bottom and lives at depths of 30 to 1200 meters or more. Hagfish require high salinity (approximately 30 ppt or more) and low temperatures associated with deeper water and are usually found half-concealed in the bottom sediment. They are widely distributed in the Arctic Sea southward along both coasts of the north Atlantic. Fig 1 Hagfish

Mechanism and structure of hagfish slime threads Mucins and protein threads are two major parts of hagfish slime produced from slime glands. Hagfish can develop high amount of slime because it having a three order of magnitude and it is highly dissolved then typical mucus secretions. Slime thread has optimum material properties and generates high elastic material. Mucins impart viscosity at the strain rates tested and are important for rapid deployment of the slime. Hagfish slime threads are tapered at both ends, and it suggests that hagfish slime as a resource for tomorrow’s natural fabric. Hagfish slime consists mainly of bulk sea water entrained between mucin-coated threads, and thus functions more like a fine sieve than coherent mucus. Hagfish slime makes silken thread: The hagfish slime can be a resource for tomorrow’s natural fabric. The fig 2 shows the hagfish secrete slime

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June 2017

COVER STORY when threatened. This Along with other natural such as spider and silkworm silk, hagfish fibres could serve as a greener alternative to polymers such as rayon, nylon or polyester all of which have to be made

to the water and then produce the structure by spinning like silk. The important thing is that the hagfish slime able to process into a useable material. Engineered silkworms: The hagfish slime is a gel like structure that is difficult to handle. The hagfish have big whiskers, and they don’t have eyes. Hagfish slime smells like dirty seawater and has the consistency of snot. It feels like mucous but a little bit more wet. When we hold the slime in to the air, water will remove and the only threadlike structure is remain.

Fig 2. Hagfish secrete slime when threatened. This can be made into natural fibre like spider silk

with petroleum. Hagfish which aren’t true fish and resemble eels make a slime that contains thousands of fibres when bothered or threatened. Glands on their skin quickly release a mucous-like substance that expands as it mixes with seawater. The result is a kind of slimy, viscous region around the hagfish that some marine bio legists think serves as a defensive mechanism by clogging gills. Certainly predators, such as sharks, that try to bite or swallow the hagfish are quickly convinced to back off.

The threads are similar to the bone protein and which is made up of intermediate filament. The hagfish threads are 100 times smaller than a human hair and that indicates the unique characteristics and defense mechanism. The hagfish slime threads can be strengthening with the composition of nylon or plastic. Hagfish slime has the potential to become a stretchy fabric. This is the new trend of ecofriendly fiber and which can be good solution for fibers like Fur, hemp. The protective slime will protect to the hagfish from external attacks. So in future you may get the fabrics which are silky and stretchy from the hagfish.

The fibres hagfish make are about 70 per cent the strength of spider silk. Unlike spider silk, however, hagfish fibre might be amenable to mass production. It’s probably not possible to farm hagfish, as little is known of the animal’s reproductive habits, for one thing.

Slime can be used as a long life textile or developed textile:

Hagfish slime makes super-clothes:

Hagfish is a high growth rate animal that leaves under water same for the 300 million years. When slime is threatened, hagfish generate gelatinous slime consist of mucous and higher number of protein threads. The hagfish slime threads belongs to the intermediate filament family of proteins and they have optimum mechanical properties that opposite to the spider silks.

Threads of hagfish slime, which the animal secrete when aggravated, could be woven to produce a material with the strength of nylon or plastic. One of the most important facts of world is the source of new kinds of petroleum-free plastics and strong fabrics. The manufacturing process of hagfish slime thread like as spinning of silk. Firstly, harvesting of slime from the hagfish then dissolve it in

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is very complicated phenomenon and spiders cannot be produce high quantities of silk within minimum time. The Hagfish slime have high potential to produce a high quality protein based fibers rather than spider silk proteins. Conclusion: Now a day’s hagfish slime material plays a very important role in fashion. Move over organic cotton. Clothes made from hagfish slime could one day be the height of sustainable fashion. Synthetic fabric such as nylon and polyester are made from petroleum. A green, natural alternative would be a protein-based cloth made from spider silk or the thick slime made by the hagfish to help it escape predators. The hagfish slime protein threads generally 100 times less in diameter than human hair. The strength of hagfish slime threads is 10 times higher than the strength of nylon. The proteins in hagfish slime are several times smaller than those in spider silk, so it should be easier for bacteria to make them. The real fact would be if we could use bacterial hagfish proteins as a sustainable replacement for synthetic fibres, but the method will have to be improved before we can manufacture textiles in this way. Reference: Douglas S. Fudge, Nimrod Levy, Scott Chiu and John M. Gosline, “Composition, morphology and mechanics of hagfish slime,” The Journal of Experimental Biology 208, 4613-4625,2005 •

Jorgensen J.M., J. P. Lomholt, R. E. Weber and H. Malte, “The Biology of Hagfishes, Chapman & Hall,” 1998. •

Randy H. & Ewoldt, “Non-linear viscoelasticity of hagfish slime,” Institute for Mathematics and its Applications & Department of Chemical Engineering. •

Atsuko Negishi, Clare L. Armstrong, Laurent Kreplak, Maikel C. Rheinstadter, Loong-Tak Lim, Todd E. Gillis, and Douglas S. Fudge*, “The Production of Fibres and Films from Solubilized Hagfish Slime Thread Proteins.” •

J. E. Herr1, T. M. Winegard1, M. J. O’Donnell2, P. H. Yancey3 and D. S. Fudge1*, “Stabilization and swelling of hagfish slime mucin vesicles.” (Bio macromolecules, doi.org/jwh).

Today’s textile market strategy has a reasonable price with quality material. The slime threads have better properties for spinning and it is woven biomaterials.

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The process of producing spider silk

COVER STORY •

Downing S.W., R.H. Spitzer, W.L. Salo, J.S. Downing, L.J. Saidel, and E.A. Koch, “Threads in the hagfish slime gland thread cells: organization, biochemical features, and length”, Science 212: 326327, 1981.

nents of gland thread cells modulate the properties of mucus from the hagfish,” Cell Tissue Res. 264:79-86, 1991. •

Koch, E.A., R.H. Spitzer, R.B. Pithawalla, F.A. Castillos III, and D.A. Parry,“Hagfish biopolymer: a type I/type II homologue of epidermal keratin intermediate filaments,” Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 17:283292, 1995.

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Fernholm, B., “Thread cells from the slime gland of the hagfish, ActaZoologica 62: 137-145, 1981. •

Ferry, J.D., “A fibrous protein from the slime of the hagfish,” J. Biol. Chem. 138: 263-268, 1941. •

Martini, F., “Secrets of the slime hag,” Scientific American, October 1998, 7075, 1998.

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Koch, E.A., R.H. Spitzer, R.B. Pithawalla, and S.W. Downing,“Keratin-like compo•

Newby W.W., “The slime glands and thread cells of the hagfish, Polistrotrem-

astouti,” J. Morph. 78: 397-409, 1946.

Mr. Navnath V. Karche, Ms. Priyanka N. Gavhankar, Mr. Bhupendra Dansena DKTE’S Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur. 416115

Solid State Polymerization and enhancing Crystallinity & Molecular weight to improve tensile properties of Polyester yarn

bstract: Solid State Polymerization (SSP) is a process in which the polymer chain lengths are increased by heat in the absence of oxygen and water, by means of either vacuum or purging with an inert gas to drive off the by-products of reactions. The reaction is driven by temperature, pressure, and the diffusion of by-products from the interior of the pellet to the surface. SSP is an important step frequently used after melt-polymerization for the purpose of enhancing the mechanical and rheological properties of polymers before injection blow molding or extruding. The SSP technique is widely applied in industrial manufacture of bottle-grade PET, films, and superior industrial fibers. Keyword: SSP- Solid State Polymerization, Tg Glass Transition temperature, Tm Melt temperature, IV Intransic Viscosity, After polymerization in the melt phase, the molecular weight of polyester can be further increased by polycondensation of PET chips in the solid state and this process is called solid state polymerization (SSP). This process enables higher molecular weights to be reached which are either technically or commercially not feasible in the melt phase. Solid state polymerization in the form of chips or powder, pre-extrusion SSP is a com-

mon approach in the production of high molecular weight polymers for molded products. Polycondensation reaction is exothermic, therefore, it can also be driven forward to give polymer with higher molecular weight if the reaction is carried out at a lower temperature. At lower temperatures of polycondensation, equilibrium shifts forward to higher completion enabling formation of higher molecular weight of the product. Since temperatures cannot be lowered in melt polymerization, the best solution is to carry out the reaction in solid state, wherein temperatures lower than melting point of the polymer can be used. At these temperatures, the kinetics of the reaction is slow and it takes a long time to complete the reaction. The molecular weight can be increased up to 27000 (IV, 0.90) for bottle grade and as high as 38000 (IV, 1.20) for technical applications such as tyre cord, seal belts and air bags The first step before carrying out the solid state polymerization is precrystallization of chips. The water quenched polymer chips obtained from melt polycondensation stage are almost wholly amorphous. Therefore, the chips are first intensely dried and annealed at a gradually increasing temperature up to the point of

maximum crystallization rate to impart high level of crystallinity. This raises the glass transition temperature of the chips and prevents their sticking to each other during solid state polymerization. The SSP is performed at temperatures between 220 and 235°C for PET, which lie above the glass transition temperature and below the crystalline melting point of PET. Under these conditions, polymer chain end groups are mobilized sufficiently to undergo polycondensation. The annealed chips are heated in a stream of hot inert gas or by agitating in a vacuum drier to remove small traces of EG and other volatile by-products. As the reaction is carried out in the solid phase, volatile by-products can diffuse easily to the surface of each polymer chip and are instantly carried away by the gas flow or high vacuum. The main advantages of increasing molecular weight in solid state compared to melt phase are: 1. Problems associated with stirring of viscous melt are eliminated. 2. Degradation and side reactions are limited in the solid state due to lower processing temperature used. Solid state polycondensation process favours polymerization process compared to depolymerization. 3. Best means of achieving PET with

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June 2017

COVER STORY acceptable level of acetaldehyde. The rate of the solid state polycondensation process depends on particle size, initial molecular weight, crystallinity of PET chips and end group concentration. The pellet size has generally been used to identify the rate controlling mechanism of overall reaction rate. When the reaction rate is chemically controlled, then the pellet size has no effect on the reaction rate. On the other hand, if reaction rate is diffusion controlled, i.e. limited by the diffusion of byproducts from inside of the pellet chips to the pellet surface, then the reaction rate can be increased by decreasing the pellet size, due to decrease in the length of diffusion path. It has also been shown that the higher starting molecular weights enable higher molecular weights to be achieved. this has been attributed to the tendency of the lower starting molecular weights to lead to higher crystallinity build-up during SSP. Crystallization reduces the SSP reaction rate by reducing chain mobility and by increasing the diffusion path length of the by-products. The crystallinity of polymer should be between 33 and 58% and should not exceed 80%.The reaction rate is very sensitive to the ratio of hydroxyl to carboxyl end groups. At low carboxyl concentrations, the transesterification reaction will be favoured, while at high carboxyl concentrations the esterification route will be preferred. The optimum ratio of hydroxyl end groups to carboxylic end groups has been experimentally found to be two. A. How the Process Works • Receive PET, polyesters or other condensation polymers made by melt polymerization • Transfer the pellets to a Rotary Vacuum Dryer (RVD) • Generally, the vacuum pump removes air, water and by-products of the SSP; alternatively, nitrogen purging is used • The temperature/time profile is controlled with a microprocessor • Initial heating at a temperature

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above Tg cold crystallizes amorphous pellets to prevent sticking and fusion of pellets Heating is continued to dry the ”wet” pellets Heating is continued to a predetermined temperature below the melting temperature of the polymer Solid state polymerization is done at a high temperature and low vacuum (or alternatively at zero oxygen level with nitrogen purging) to achieve the desired high molecular weight of the polymer The SSP progress is followed by periodically taking samples with custom designed samplers The melt viscosity at a specific temperature of that sample is determined within several minutes The Intrinsic Viscosity is obtained from the Correlation Chart/Curve established from melt viscosity data and Intrinsic Viscosity obtained from solution viscosity at ambient temperatures for PET homopolymers The final product viscosity is as specified by the customer A major benefit of solid state polymerization is obtaining a desired high molecular weight polymer of uniform and consistent Intrinsic Viscosity Other major benefits include the reduction of undesirable side reactions and the levels of by-products For PET, the SSP by-products are ethylene glycol and acetaldehyde When the desired molecular weight is achieved, the product pellets are cooled and transferred to storage tanks The product pellets are classified, packaged and shipped according to customer requirements

Applications of IDY:Automobile tires, safety belts, airbags, geotextiles, mooring ropes for drilling platforms, conveyor belts, sails and fishing nets – all these are manufactured using industrial yarns. Industrial yarns are considered to be the ultimate discipline in filament manufacturing. High tenacities, extreme

dimensional stability, tremendous durability along with a large range of titers – although the demanding production process promises highmargins, it is however also simultaneously a huge challenge both for the yarn manufacturer and the systems constructor. REFERENCES:[1]. Rabindranath K, Mashelkar R A, J. Appl. Poly. Sci. 1990. [2]. Culbert B., Christel A. “Continuous Solid state Polymerization of Polyesters”. [3]. Papaspyrides C.D, Vouyiouka S. N; “Fundamentals of Solid-state Polymerization. [4]. petus.com/ssp.aspx [5]. nptel.ac.in/courses/116102010/40

Digambar Chavan, P V Kadole DKTE’s Textile & Engineering Institute Ichalkaranji, India.

COVER STORY

CHANDERI WEAVING- AN EXCLUSIVE ART OF INDIA

handeri cloth is composed of the tana, which is the warp or the length-wise, stretched out set of threads through which the bana or the weft is woven back and forth. Since the inception of weaving in Chanderi, till about 1920s, only white and off-white cloth was woven with its ends fringed with zari or golden thread. Only hand-spun cotton thread was utilized, even in the tana, even though it was barely strong enough to be held under tension. The then weavers were highly skilled workers as they had to be extremely careful while handling the delicate cotton yarn, producing an assortment of garments including safas, pagdis, dupattas, lugadas and saris. Chanderi refers to a shimmering cotton fabric which is famous for being light weight and having sheer texture and glossy transparency. Practiced exclusively in a town called Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, India, the art derived its name from. Saris weaved out of chanderi are best for summer wear. Motifs used in chanderi weaving are mostly inspired from nature (earth and sky). Few of them are Swans (hamsa), gold coins (asharfi), trees, fruits, flowers and heavenly bodies. Soft pastel hues characterize chanderi fabrics however, timeless combinations of bright colour borders on an off white base, or red on black, also exist now. INTRODUCTION-

Chanderi, which is amongst the best known handloom clusters, occupies a special place because of its centuries old weaving specialty of producing finely textured fabrics of silk and cotton embellished with zari woven work, and more specifically because of its saris that have been patronized by royalty. Chanderi is known to have its origin back in the Vedic Period, and is believed to have founded by Lord Krishna’s cousin, Shishupal. The

Chanderi produces three kinds of fabrics: Pure Silk, Chanderi Cotton and Silk Cotton. The motifs have come a long way from the traditional coin, floral and peacocks to the geometrics. Chanderi Saree, a product intricately woven by hand interspersed with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs that has for times immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of the royalty. The Chanderi fabrics are known for their sheer texture, light weight and a glossy transparency that sets them apart from textiles produced en masse in factories. Traditionally, the fabric was woven using very fine hand spun yarn, which accounted for its delicate texture. So its quality, designs colors and motifs would be appropriate to cater the demands of an elite class family. A beautiful blend of Cotton, Silk thread and zari results to Chanderi fabric” A Chanderi fabric is famous by the name of Chanderi town in Madhya Pradesh. The fabric is a result of traditional methods of hand weaving that have been developed over the centuries and passed down through generations. Chanderi is primarily a weaver’s town, located near the river Betwa in Guna district of Madhya Pradesh. Around 60% population of Chanderi are involved in the manufacturing of Chanderi.As the fabric is woven by three kinds of threads the Cotton, Silk thread and Zari are imported from other regions in India as well as China, Japan and Korea. The chemical dyes are preferably used due to their fast acting quality. Traditional looms are used as a primary means of production. These include Pit, Dobby and Jacquard Looms. Most Chanderis have a rich gold border and two lines of gold on the pallu. Some have gold checks or little motifs (known as butis). The weavers involved in the process are long stand-

ing in trade and are well experienced. The Chanderi fabric is light weight and has intricate designs. The Chanderi Fabric is also well known for its transparency and sheer texture. The transparency is a unique feature, which is not commonly or found in any of the textile product all over the country. The transparency in Chanderi Fabric products is the consequence of Single Flature quality of yarn used. Flature yarn is the quality of yarn when the glue of the raw yarn is not taken out. The degumming of the raw yarn gives shine and transparency to the finished fabric. This quality is not found in any other fabric of the country and it is exclusive to the Chanderi Fabric. The special transparent yarn is used both in warp and weft of different varieties and configurations. The transparent yarn is cotton and as well as silk also. The yarn used in Chanderi fabric is of high quality and extra fine. Because of non-degumming of the raw yarn, the finished fabric produced is extremely transparent and which in consequence result into sheer texture. Chanderi is famous for its drape of saree with rich gold border at the ‘pallu’ and some selective ones having gold embellishments with lotus roundels or butis, spread all across the six yards. Chanderi involve in production of three kinds of fabrics mainly: y Pure silk where the warp and weft is woven in pure silk. y Chanderi cotton The warp and weft are 100s or 120s cotton. The Chanderi muslins have been known for their smoothness and softness; this was conventionally attained by using koli- a local wild onion used for sizing. Today this quality has been put to an end.

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June 2017

COVER STORY Silk cotton the weaver skillfully coalesce 13/15-denier warp with 100s/120s cotton in the weft. DIFFERENT STAGES FOR THE PRODUCTION OF CHANDERI WEAVING 1. PROCUREMENT OF RAW MATERIAL: The raw material is purchased by the Master Weaver from the yarn dealers who in turn get the silk from Karnataka. The silk yarn used is largely imported Chinese or Korean silk. The cotton yarn is procured from places like Coimbatore in southern India and Jaipur, and is usually pre-dyed. The yarn dealers of cotton often get customized colors dyed as per the requirements. The minimum quantity required for such dyeing is almost 25 kgs or 10 hanks. 2. THE DYEING PROCESS In Chanderi is done mainly for the silk yarn by the local dyers who have been in this skill since long. The silk yarn dying process takes about 45 to 60 minutes depending on the colour. 3. AFTER DYEING PROCESS The yarn is loosened or wound on reels. This is a prelude to the preparation of the warpand weft 4. WARPING For the weft the yarn is wound on pirns with the help of a charkha and this activity is usually performed by the members of the weavers’ family. Warping is a specialised process, which is performed by the warpers. The warp yarns are wound on bobbins, which are arranged across a wooden frame called reel. The yarns from these reels pass through a reed to be wound around a vertical drum. A warper in good times would warp 4 or 5 warps for 12 saris each. 5. PASSING THE WARP THROUGH THE REED The next step is the task of passing the warp through the reed and the healds. The warp threads are then

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joined to the old warp threads with a deft twist of the hand of the women folk. This process takesapprox 3-4 days.

der and a different one in the body of the sari. Nowadays, however, only the Fly-shuttle looms are in use and these are operated by a single weaver.

6. THE DESIGN OF THE BORDER AND THE PALLAV.

CHANDERI WEAVING

Before the actual weaving begins the weaver sets the design of the border and the pallav. The respective ends of the design are tied to a vertical harness called jala. This process takes anywhere between 3-4 days depending on the complexity of the design. The figured effects are produced with the help of an extra weft and the number of ‘tillis’ i.e. the no. of weft yarns will determine the time taken. The amount of time taken reduces if the number of ply in the weft yarn is more and consequently the weaver can move faster and cover more ground. However in this case the output is less fine. Similarly higher the reed count more is the production time. 7. WEAVING The weaving is performed by one or two very skilled weavers of the same family. The looms being used are largely traditional pit looms with throw shuttle. The Chanderi fabric does not require any post loom process and is cut off the loom to be packed and sold. Little is done by way of labeling and product specification or by way of customized packing methods. BASIC CHARECTERISTICS OF CHANDERI WEAVING The Chanderi zari, which is sourced from Surat, can either be real or tested. It comes in three separate shades: y Copper, y Silver and y Golden. Earlier the looms known as the Throwshuttle pit loom were in use. Weaving on this was a very time consuming process and it required two weavers to sit side by side on the same loom. The Nal Pherma saris were woven on this loom which had one colour in one border, another in the other bor-

The process of Chanderi weaving has the following steps: Designing of fibre:-Two types of designing are done in the case of Chanderi weaving. One is the main design for the sari itself that contains various aspects like the border, the kind of motifs to be used, color combinations, etc. This is usually provided by the ordering party. This procedure is informal in the case of the local dealer but in the case of the big trading houses, a laminated paper with the design, the threads to be used and the location of motifs, etc., are provided to the weaver as a sample. The other is the more exquisite motif or booty designing which is done by the master weaver on a graph paper. This is provided to the weaver depending on the terms of the order. (2) Dyeing is an important part of the whole process, as both cotton and silk require dyeing before they can be used on the loom. The process of dyeing is normally carried out by specialized technicians who work for the dealer and are paid by him. There are different kinds of dyes for coloring silk and cotton. For cotton, a readymade fast color dye is used while for silk special dyes called Sando Silk are used which are also readymade dyes. The process of dyeing starts with dissolving the readymade fast color dye in warm water. The threads are dipped into this solution and left for a while before being taken out. Depending on the quality of the dye, are dipped into the solution again for some time . After this they are washed in with plain water and then soaked in a solution of warm water, detergent and soda. Finally, the threads are washed once more and hung on bamboo poles to dry. Once they are dry, they are sent back to the weavers for further processing.

COVER STORY CONCLUSION Though Chanderi products have a high exportable value, it does not carry the same appeal. It is marketed to the local souk within the country. Only 10% of the total production is exported while the rest of the 90% is circulated within the national boundaries. As of the modern designs of the Chanderi, the demand of them has been fading slowly and gradually by the exclusive and highly fashionable class of buyers. The demand is now restricted to few dresses and evening party and other ceremonial outfits suited in summers. We should try to encourage the local art of the region to motivate the weavers to make better products meeting todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trendy crowd. Counting to the very luxurious, warm,

breathable and lightweight fabric, home furnishing fabrics are very much in use nowadays. They have very effective role in living room for they are soft, wrinkle and stretch resistant and non-absorbent. The Chanderi fabrics are known for their sheer texture, light weight and a glossy transparency that sets them apart from textiles produced en masse in factories.

the development of many look-alikes available at cheaper.

Chanderi weavers discovered Japanese silk. They began substituting this in the warps in cotton saris, and also developed a silk-by-silk variety in which their profit margins were higher. As a result, today, it is difficult to find a genuine cotton-by-cotton Chanderi sari in retail establishments. The problem of sourcing authentic Chanderi has been exacerbated by

www.fibre2fashion.com/indianhandsnlooms/chanderi.asp

REFERENCES:http://chanderiheritage.in/weaving/ http://www.chanderisarees.co.in/index. php http://www.india1001.com/the-famouschanderi-fabric www.utsavpedia.com/textiles/chanderi/ http://chanderiyaan.chanderi.org/

www.fibre2fashion.com/...fashion.../fashion-forecasting/fashion-forecasting... www.indianroots.com/designer/m-q/prama-by-pratima-pandey

Barhanpurkar,Prachi Hurkat, TK Sinha,

Professor , Dept of Textile Technology ,SVVV, Indore

Nirav Virani +91 99095 10008 Kir Kothiya + 91 99784 32203 Email :- kenyfabrics@gmail.com

fabrics Mfg.of knitted, Embroidery & Export fabrics

Manufacturer of Warp Knitted, Raschel, Circular, Raschel Jacquard Fabrics OďŹ&#x192;ce : E-1536-1537,New Bombay Market, Near Sahara Darwaja, Surat, Gujrat, INDIA Factory Address:Plot no.46, 47, Shivdhara Raschel Park, Guy Pagla Road, Torrent Power gate, NH-8, Surat - 394150, Gujrat, INDIA ADVT

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INTERVIEW

Interview with Mr. Pradeep David, General Manager, Universal Robots, India and Sri Lanka tablished subsidiaries, in New York, Shanghai and, also established a distributor network in South America and Oceania. The second product UR 10 was also launched at the same time. It was targeted towards larger tasks with a lifting ability of 10 kg and a reach of 130 cm. In 2015, the company witnessed the launch of world’s most flexible, lightweight table-top robot UR3, to work alongside humans, which has a payload capacity of 3 kilos which can be used for light assembly tasks and automated workbench scenarios.

1. Give us a brief background of Universal Robots. In 2003, the three founders of the company, Esben Østergaard, Kasper Støy and Kristian Kassow, together came up with the idea of creating a light robot that is easy to install and program as they could see that heavy, expensive and unwieldy robots were dominating robotics and there was a huge market for a user-friendly option. In 2005, they officially founded Universal Robots, with the aim of making robot technology accessible to small and medium-sized enterprises. An investment by Syddansk Innovation shaped the foundation of the company. In 2008, the company sold its first product through distributers in Denmark and Germany. Universal Robots’ first product was the UR5, a sixjointed articulated robotic arm that revolutionized the market for industrial robots. The UR5 weighs 18 kg, has a lifting capacity of up to 5 kg and a working radius of 85 cm. Within a year the company expanded its business in the entire European markets. In 2011, Universal Robots entered the Asian market with an office in China and in next two years, they es-

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The company is a part of Teradyne Inc., headquartered in Odense, Denmark. UR has subsidiaries and regional offices in the USA, Spain, Germany, Italy, Czech Republic, China, Singapore, India, Japan, Taiwan and South Korea. The Indian operation of Universal Robots started in 2016. Universal Robots has deployed over 200 Cobots in India since 2011, majorly in the market segments of automotive industry, FMCG, Electronics, Education and R&D Centers. Bajaj Auto Ltd. which is our oldest customers in India saw a gradual rise in the productivity and efficiency in their production after deploying UR cobots. It also increased the productivity of their employees along with their product quality. They have deployed over 100 cobots since 2010 and are now the 3rd largest motorcycle manufacturer in the world. 2. Tell us about Collaborative Robots and their USP. A collaborative robot (cobot) was assembled with the intention to of physical interaction with humans in a shared workspace, where the repetitive and heavy tasks are taken care by cobots and supervision and quality checks are done by human beings. They are robotic arms designed to assist human beings in a specific

task, as a guide or assistor and as a portable tool. Various researchers have proved that the teams made of humans and robots collaborating efficiently can be around 85 percent more productive than teams made of either humans or robots. Cobots can safely work alongside humans, without any danger of injury, they are easy to deploy (just plug and play), flexible to use and inexpensive hence they are triggering the demand in the manufacturing industry comprehensively around the globe. Since the first robot was launched in 2008, the company has experienced considerable growth with the userfriendly robots sold in more than 50 countries worldwide; 11,000 of our collaborative robots are in use worldwide for the industries like Automotive & Subcontractors, Textiles & apparels, Food & agriculture, Furniture & Equipments, Electronics & Technology, Metal & Machining, Plastic & Polymers, Pharma & Chemistry, Scientific & Research. Some of our key customers are BMW, Volkswagen, Siemens, L’oreal, Bajaj Auto, Aurolabs etc. UR cobots are also being used for some unusual, out of the box applications like Healthcare, Physiotherapy, Photography, Cooking, Bartending, Farming, Flying planes etc. Developmental technologies like driverless autonomous vehicles could also see the use of cobots, in the near future. 3. The Indian textile industry being labour intensive; how will cobots contribute to its development? We at Universal Robots believe in giving back to the employees and thus, collaborative robots will function as a helping hand to the workforce and not a replacement. Cobots function to increase the productivity of the workforce as they are accessible and easy to use, the employees too, are excited to work side by side with their robotic co-workers increasing

INTERVIEW efficiency along with the quality and quantity of production. Cobots can be used in any segment of textile manufacturing where accuracy, precision and repetitive mass production is required. The key areas in textiles industry where UR cobots are being used are inspection, ‘pick and drop’, cutting and sewing. The world’s first robot which has been used for sewing garments is made by us. 4. How do you plan to expand the use of collaborative robots in the Indian Textile Industry? Cobots are a part of Industry 4.0 which has paved way for the next industrial revolution – Industry 5.0, which enables man and machine to work handin-hand. The scenario where humans and robots are inter-dependent and accomplish what each of them does best, safely. We are in an age where the application of next-generation automation is doing more than we ever thought possible, impacting individuals and businesses in many instances without even being noticed. We are in talks with various textile companies all across India and we believe that our robots are built for such precisions. A fabric industry needs high level of accuracy; weather it’s the application of picking the fabric parts from an exact location (by avoiding folding and minimize wrinkling) or cutting of materials in an exact shape or scraping

denims. Our flexible, cobots, which occupy a very little space in work area can work alongside workers safely as a third arm and can help them in producing superior products. Hence it’s with this precision approach, we are going into the market and

automatable. Increasingly, robots are used to complement and augment labour activities; the net impact on jobs and the quality of work is positive. Automation provides the opportunity for humans to focus on higher-skilled, higher-quality and higher-paid tasks.

5. How would Universal robots like to expand its operations in India and the SAARC region?

“ We

UR Cobots are sold in more than 50 countries worldwide and 11,000 of our robots are deployed globally. Some of the leading manufacturers are using our technology include BMW, Volkswagen, Siemens, L’oreal, Bajaj Auto, Aurolabs, etc. Our cobots have got over 65 patents pertaining to Robot Safety, Robot Construction, Trajectory Control, and Robot Calibration & Programming. We established office in India, Bangalore in February 2016 but some of the companies in India are using our cobots from past 7 years, which is much before the launch of the local operations. One of them is Bajaj Auto which has deployed over 120 cobots since 2011. We have been successful in developing a strong channel network which covers the entire country from North to South and East to West. According to a study done by International Federation of Robotics (2017); the future will be robots and humans working together. Robots substitute labour activities but do not replace jobs. Less than 10% of jobs are fully

believe that UR cobots have the potential to change the dynamics of this sector.

”

This clearly establishes the fact that the future of automation is not machines taking over human job but it’s the synchronization of robots and human which lays the foundations of the future. We cannot always depend on labour for high quality and repetitive jobs because after a certain point they can get tired which can affect their performance whereas a robot can perform such work 24 x 7 hours, without a tea or lunch break. However there are certain quality checks and supervision roles which a human mind can do best as compared to a robot. The human robot collaboration ensures that the high precision, repetitive and heavy lifting jobs are taken care by UR cobots so that the labour can concentrate on high skilled and higher remuneration jobs. Hence it’s not the question of cheap labour any more it’s the question of quality, efficiency and higher productivity which can only be achieved through human robot collaboration.

Suzuki Suitings Private Limited Manufacturers of all kinds of Suitings. Exporters of Polyestor viscose , cotton , poly wool , wool,and all kinds of dyed cotton fabric, corduroy Suitings

Suzuki Suitings pvt ltd 62, shreeji cloth market, sarangpur, Ahmedabad-380002 Arun parasrampuria :+919825320391 | Bhavna Parasrampuria :+919327080600 Email: bhavnaparasrampuria@gmail.com

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June 2017

GLOBAL FOCUS

One Belt – One Road: China’s big initiative creating massive business opportunities

n 2013, China announced One Belt One Road (OBOR) – an initiative that could potentially reshape the world order. OBOR comprises a landbased “Silk Road Economic Belt” and an oceangoing “Maritime Silk Road.” The “Belt” is an infrastructure network of transport, energy and communication projects stretching from Xi’an in China through Central Asia to Moscow, Rotterdam and Venice. The “Road” is its maritime equivalent, a network of planned ports and other coastal infrastructure from South and Southeast Asia to East Africa and the northern Mediterranean Sea. Over the last three years, the OBOR initiative has gathered significant momentum but its underlying concept, scope and framework remain fluid. Understanding these as well as the associated business challenges and opportunities were the objectives of the discovery. China is the world’s first or second largest economy, the third largest global investor, and the largest and third largest trader of goods and services, respectively. However, its economic growth in 2015 stood at 6.9%, the slowest it has been in a quarter of a century. Lu Xiankun indicated that for many years a GDP growth rate of 8% was almost like a “holy number” for the Chinese government. Anything below that was alarming. It meant serious problems in many aspects, particularly employment.

June 2017

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But now, people are already talking about a growth of below 7%. Meanwhile, China is confronted by myriad internal challenges – a regional development gap between coastal and central/western regions, many people still living below the poverty line, massive migration from countryside to cities, serious industrial overcapacity and employment challenges for young graduates. The OBOR initiative could be the answer to some of these issues. The Rationale OBOR is the most important thrust of China’s opening-up and developmental strategy (both internally and externally) since its accession to the WTO in 2001. China has been looking to the WTO for trade liberalization reforms but, with the seeming failure of the Doha round, the WTO remains embroiled in a deadlock. The reason for the deadlock, Marion Jansen explained, is that the US and EU want to execute deals that are more complicated, including issues such as standards and regulations on labor, competition, investment, and environment, i.e. those that are not priorities for the developing countries. For this reason, the major industrial powers – EU, Canada, US, Japan – have opted for “mega regional” deals to cover issues that they want to resolve. Faced with slowing growth, China cannot wait for the WTO to take action. Since infrastructure is not typically part of

the trade agreements negotiated by the WTO, China has moved on with the OBOR initiative, which focuses on infrastructure as a key pillar. Perceptions about OBOR The international community is still struggling to understand the gist and impact of OBOR since China has difficulty in explaining its intentions. Initially, OBOR was referred to as “China’s Marshall Plan” by some Western media and more recently it has been seen as a countermeasure to the USled Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP) and pivot to Asia. Lu explained that China is presenting OBOR as an open instrument developed in a multipolar world that seeks market-driven collaboration with 65 countries, and is even open to countries that are not situated along the OBOR. A case in point is Switzerland. China wants to avoid the impression that it is sinking its dragon claws into other countries. Instead, it is trying to find synergies with existing programs in these countries. Projects will come incrementally and will beadapted differently to the local aspirations of diverse countries. Unlike the TPP or other WTO agreements thatare often based on hardand strict rules, OBOR is informal, cooperative and loosely structured with a soft approach to rules and boundaries. Shuaihua Cheng drew an analogy, “the OBOR policy is similar to Tai Chi rather than American kickboxing. Or like Uber, which

GLOBAL FOCUS works on a model of open sourcing and businessvia collaboration.” Marion concurred that OBOR’s approach is indeed inclusive as she compared the countries covered by both TPP and OBOR. TPP countries – which do not include Indonesia, India and China – are all relatively similar with high GDP per capita (with the exception of Vietnam), whereas OBOR countries are way more diverse. She stated, “If OBOR only achieves half of what it intends to do, it could be very powerful.” Shuaihua made the point that the TPP does have a negative trade impact on China by preventing access to preferential markets and tariff reductions. Of course, trade and manufacturing will be divertedto TPP members, for example to lowcost Vietnam. Furthermore, US President Barack Obama has openly stated, “The US, not China, should write the rules of the global economy” to which China’s ministry of foreign affairs responded that no single country should write the rules of global trade. Shuaihua feels therefore that OBOR is clearly a measure to circumvent the US. Jean Pierre, for his part, sees it as an alternative to TPP. Opportunities OBOR may create travel opportunity of 100 billion dollar annually and huge boost to tours, travels & hospitality industry. OBOR presents for China is that it will open new markets, which will help to resolve issues of domestic overca-

pacity. Moreover, the infrastructure thrust will reduce trade costs through central Asia and shift competitiveness inland. As the land corridors are set to run along the major Eurasian countries, through China-MongoliaRussia, China-Central and West Asia, China-Indochina Peninsula, ChinaPakistan, Bangladesh-China-IndiaMyanmar, it will also enable the integration of inland and coastal China, bringing growth and stability to the region. An example upheld as a symbol of success for OBOR, the TransEurasia Chongqing-Xinjiang-Europe international railway route, which starts in Chongqing and ends 11,179 km later (following 16 days of travel) in Duisburg, Germany, is currently being used by companies like BMW and HP. China needs more such infrastructure projects to sustain its economic growth and to support important domestic industries. In fact, Marc Laperrouza senses a kind of desperation among Chinese businesses and government agencies to find new projects/acquisitions on technology and infrastructure. He feels that the country is currently obsessed with innovation. In fact, in southern China large-scale low-cost manufacturing is transforming into design houses in an effort to move up the value chain. China wants to move beyond its traditional role of exchanging infrastructure against natural resources, as in the case of its investments in Africa. By progressing with OBOR, it will take projects coupled with financing mechanisms to countries lacking in infrastructure, such as Indonesia or the Philippines. This will, in turn, allow China to offer its products and services to these countries in the longer term. Beyond hard infrastructure, Marc sees the potential for China to ex-

port standards for the very first time. China has been intensifying its efforts to set indigenous standards for homegrown ultrahigh voltage (UHV) transmission technology and aims to contribute to UHV standards internationally. Two factors are creating a window of opportunity for Chinese UHV technologies to gain acceptance as the de facto global standard: (1) It is the only country currently deploying UHV technology on a large scale and (2) No international UHV standard has yet prevailed. While OBOR signals a new phase in China’s globalization process, what about soft infrastructure? Despite all its success, China lacks attractiveness and battles inferior quality perceptions. According to Marc, out of 7 million annual university graduates, there are 700,000 engineers but only a fraction of them are world-class. This situation could give rise to fundamental questions about quality and security for key strategic assets, for example as the UK’s next generation of nuclear power plants will be built in collaboration with China Guangdong Nuclear Power Group. Marc wonders if China’s infrastructure-driven hard power can translate into winning soft power. “Exporting the local advantage sounds good on paper but what about the ground reality of the specific OBOR countries? It was an African honeymoon for China until a few years ago but now the situation is growing tense.” Ultimately, China wants better return on investment. While it is the biggest holder of US debt, it is also looking to invest elsewhere to not only enhance its returns but also to win friends in the process. Evidently, with OBOR the investment preference (e.g. M&A, EPC projects) will shift toward developing countries where priorities are power, transport infrastructure, telecommunication and water. The next open question is whether there is an actual business case for OBOR investments and whether it can bring sufficient returns.

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June 2017

GLOBAL FOCUS Funding OBOR is expected to stimulate a massive trillion dollar market, much larger than China’s domestic one. The total investment needed in the relevant areas is about $5 trillion over the next five years while infrastructure demand in Southeast Asia stands at $2.5 trillion over the next 10 years. Infrastructure projects of such magnitude will create the need for equally strong funding. For this reason, China has taken the lead in establishing the Asia Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB) with 57 founding members and a capital of $100 billion. Despite opposition from Washington, US allies including Australia, Britain, Germany, Italy, the Philippines and South Korea have all joined the AIIB, which is clearly seen as a huge political success for China. It is evident that Beijing-based AIIB allows China more independence from the American finance system. Capital will be also be made available through the Silk Road Fund ($40 billion), BRICS Development Bank ($100 billion) and a recapitalization of other Chinese banks. However, China’s state funding will only provide 15%, just a fraction, of the developing market infrastructure demand. European companies wants role in the OBOR projects. How can we bid to form part of a consortium, for example, in Indonesia? How willing are we to go in there and risk losing IP?” China has to define projects with tangible outcomes and governance elements. Only then will it attract international private equity or sovereign funds that see OBOR as the right place for their investments. He highlighted the opportunities for European companies arising from OBOR:

• Outbound capital projects in partnership with Chinese players, through the supply of equipment, technology or intellectual property. • “Europe eastward” strategy, allowing access to developing market governments and new clients through OBOR projects. • Leverage Chinese partnerships in OBOR countries to access the Chinese market. • Outbound financing/private equity fund. To leverage the above-mentioned opportunities, the Silk Road Chamber of International Commerce, headed by Jean- Guy Carrier, was launched in Hong Kong in December 2015. With the participation of nearly 100 international, regional and national chambers of commerce, its objective is to put international business at the heart of the OBOR initiatives by connecting businesses, governments and investors, ramifications of OBOR will encourage progress even in difficult areas such as Iran; a country that is seen as a problem suddenly starts to become a part of the solution. A strong business community in Iran that has long been in isolation is keen to reconnect. The OBOR strategy is being invented on the go. It is a 21st century big idea – probably the biggest idea floated in the last 10 years – and it is being implemented in a Chinese manner. You cross the river by feeling the stones. It may not sound very satisfying strategically but that is what is being applied. Key Risks When all is said and done, significant risks – political, economic and operational – have to be considered.

Given that OBOR remains intentionally amorphous and at an early stage of implementation, the biggest stumbling block is lack of information and clarity. Furthermore, infrastructure projects require large-scale investment, high standards of management and involve long operating cycles, all of which mean great uncertainty in project profitability. Operational risks are also exacerbated by diverse legal and regulatory systems in OBOR countries. The current world economy is still unstable, and changes in macro-economic industry and market environment will have an impact on crossborder investment. Jean-Pierre closed the discussion by reiterating the greatest risk – geopolitics. The OBOR canvas is spread over the world’s most vibrant region which is also the most combustible. Asia’s balance of power remains fragile given China’s disputes with many of its neighbors, especially in the South China Sea. China’s challenge is to achieve a peaceful rise, for which historically there is no precedent.

Mr. Arvind Sinha

CEO - Business Advisors Group Cell No. 9820062612 Email ID: lionasinha@gmail.com

“ Life is like a game of cards. The hand you are dealt is determinism the way you play it is free will. Jawaharlal Nehru ” June 2017

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INTERVIEW

Exclusive Interview with Mr. M. S. Vijayan- Joint Managing Director Resil Chemicals Pvt.Ltd. TVC: What is your inspiration for starting the company? Motivational factor Resil Chemicals was established by two aspiring entrepreneurs, Mr. M. S. Vijayan and Mr. M. S. Mohan. Our interest in innovation was fuelled by the exponential growth of the Textile Chemical and Auxiliary market globally. From where idea generated? What is the thought process behind it? How it all began? Resil was a pioneer for silicones in textiles. We were the first to supply the full range of textile finishing and auxiliary chemicals and also are the manufacturers of customized silicones for textiles. Since then

“ We

have become one of the Asia’s largest formulators of customized sili” cones. Silicone as a chemical substance has a wide variety of applications due to its chemical nature, making them ideal for catering to the Textile industry. While in the past manufacturers used silicones in lower quantities due to its relatively “high price”, today silicones are widely accepted and are seen as an indispensable entity. Started as a small manufacturing unit in 1994 with just 5 employees, today Resil is a 300+ member organization with 4 internationally certified manufacturing facilities with over 20,000 metric tons of specialty chemical production per year. Resil now exports to more than 10 countries and has diversified into emerging technology based products such as hand sanitizers, disinfectants, and automotive detailing products.

TVC: What Challenges & Struggle you have faced? Accumulating finances for the company was one of the major challenges. Running a private limited company requires an adequate and regular flow of funds for its efficient functioning. Proper management of capital is essential to a company’s fundamental financial health and operational success. In the chemical industry, capital serves as a metric for smooth business operations. Finding out new products which enhance the quality, improving existing processes for making chemicals in order to use less capital expenditure and raw materials, finding methods of manufacturing that use and dispose of chemicals which do not harm the environment requires a huge investment of funds to run the system. There is a basic rule that is been followed in the chemical industry in terms of production, invest huge capital to make a big plant so that there is less overhead and the product can be more produced more cheaply on the large scale. Apart from the capital, maintaining the norms in terms of global environment regulations is one of the hectic tasks. Global regulatory involves a broad range of regulatory initiatives that relate to the social, environmental and human rights responsibilities. Environment regulations have more impact on business than the economy. The increased import of various chemicals, intermediates and end products, and reduced import tariff by the government to meet the increasing demand of the country, has intensified the level of competition in the Indian chemical industry. The competition has increased marginally in the chemical industry in recent times. TVC: Product Specification : Unique

in Product / USP of Product Textile Finishing Combining the latest technology with our innovative processes, we bring the perfect finish. Whether it’s infusing the smell of lavender into silk or taming the denim’s toughness or even helping white cotton retain their brightness, Resil has a refreshing collection of solutions to meet your every need. Textile Enzymes Resil brings a comprehensive list of value additions with our enzymes and textile process enhancers. Enzymes can alter the characteristics of almost any textile, and provide amazing benefits through their versatile nature. Poised to transform the industry with its applications, enzymes have definitely conquered unchartered territories in the textile industry. Functional Finishes Resil’s innovative performance finish solutions enhance the personality of your fabrics. From antimicrobial and fragrance finishes to anti-age-

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June 2017

INTERVIEW ing, wrinkle-free, stain repellent and moisture management solutions, Resil offers finishes that serve a variety of needs. Textile Pre-treatment Resil offers comprehensive solutions for textiles such as wetting agents, lubricants, sequestering agents, peroxide killers, fixing agents, levelling agents and washing off agents. Thread & Yarn Finishing At Resil, we believe that only the perfect thread or yarn makes a difference. This perfection is as much a priority for us as excellence in fabric finishing is. Right from aqueous to antistatic, our finishes help make your thread Soft, sturdy, durable and comfortable. ActigoTM - Laser Booster Actigo™, from Resil Chemicals’ a patent protected technology enables jeans manufacturers to move to a new process that eliminates the need for Potassium Permanganate (PP) used for denim bleaching. The technology acts only at the point of laser interaction by creating a natural worn look with greater contrast when in comparison with the harmful PP spray garment finishes. Actigo™, is highly effective on a variety of articles, including high stretch, dark and light finishes.

nology that responds dynamically to body temperature and perspiration keeping people cool even when on the move. For cotton clothes, Coolit™ facilitates an endothermic reaction that absorbs body heat, generating a cooling effect of up to 3⁰C when in contact with sweat and moisture leaving the wearer feeling cool and comfortable. NeuDriTM NeuDri™ was developed as a dynamic drying technology that rapidly wicks perspiration from the skin and transfers moisture to the fabric’s surface, leaving the wearer dry, comfortable, cool and confident. In addition to evaporation, NeuDri™ has excellent soil release, softening, and anti-static properties that ensure your sportswear are not only comfortable but also supple and functional. SoladelTM Clothes can now be enabled to clean naturally which helps to reduce the use of harsh chemicals. SoladelTM uses the power of the sunlight to peel off any kind of organic dirt, easing the washing process, and preventing your favourite clothes from getting ruined. This textile treatment acts in a manner similar to photosynthesis, effectively breaking down organic dirt molecules and releasing them from the surface of the fabric.

N9 Pure SilverTM

SilaideTM

N9 Pure Silver™, along with its variant N9 Plastix™, is a family of silver-based antibacterial and hygiene solutions. It is based on a revolutionary Silverbased technology that, on contact, neutralizes odour-causing bacteria, keeping the treated product fresher for longer.

4The growth of microorganisms on textiles can lead to functional, hygienic and aesthetic difficulties. The use of antimicrobial finishes to prevent unpleasant odours on intimate apparel, underwear, sleepwear, socks, and athletic wear is an important market need. The odours are produced by the bacterial decomposition of sweat and other body fluids, and controlling bacterial growth by SILAIDE™ finishing eliminates this problem.

It is a finish that can be applied to fabrics or garments. This breakthrough technology delivers outstanding odour control performance, combined with impeccable environmental credentials and safety profile. CoolitTM Coolit™ is a sustainable cooling tech-

June 2017

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CylantTM The growth of microorganisms on textiles can lead to functional, hygienic and aesthetic difficulties. The use of antimicrobial finishes to prevent un-

pleasant odours on intimate apparel, underwear, sleepwear, socks, and athletic wear is an important market need. The odours are produced by the bacterial decomposition of sweat and other body fluids, and controlling bacterial growth by CYLANT™ finishing eliminates this problem. Purepel™ Textiles treated with Purepel™ offer superior durable water repellence and protection against water-based stains. Applicable to cellulosic, synthetics and blends. Maintains fabric breathability, making them comfortable to wear. Pricing Strategy : Premium TVC: What is your product innovation approach? Resil has a dedicated in design team working around the clock at our inhouse R&D centre. Our inhouse R&D has the state-of-the-art facility to engage the team in innovative R&D activities such as development of new product/ technologies, design and engineering, improvements in process/ product/ design, developing new methods of analysis and testing, research for increased efficiency in use of resources such as capital equipment, material and energy, pollution control, effluent treatment and recycling of waste products or any other areas of research. TVC: Market Focus: Domestic or Export or both ( % of each in total revenue) Currently, we are working with various Indian apparel brands, pan India. We are also catering to some of the brands in the Middle East, US & European markets. The revenue generated by our textile segment can be estimated to a percentage of 65% and holds a 12% of shares in the Indian textile finishing and auxiliary chemicals. TVC: How quality control is important in Industry ? Efficient quality control and accurate planning are key factors in achieving

INTERVIEW of quality for the products or services offered by companies in chemical industry. Quality control and planning is of critical importance in the chemical industry as it is critical to know exactly what chemicals, and of which grades are moving through the plant at any given time. The final outcome of products depends on the quality of chemicals used for manufacturing and processing purpose. Variations in the grade of chemicals being used and supplied may have a significant impact on overall plant performance. It could also damage the plant or be completely useless, resulting in serious wastage of resources and capital. The control over the quality is important to determine that the output being provided is of overall top quality. Quality control is essential for companies and industriesfor liability purposes, name recognition or branding, a positioning against the competition in the industry. TVC: Importance of sustainability, recycling and reuse In today’s time recycling is vital because it not only saves businesses money but also create sustainability. Sustainability involves acting on how to ensure the continued survival, indeed prosperity, of a business or industry – indefinitely.In the millennium world, consumers perception of ecofriendly products, pressure groups and industries to promote sustainability, and therefore recycling. Recycling affects the chemical industry by providing business opportunities of getting profiting from recapturing the value of waste chemicals, both post-production and post-consumer. It also gives business opportunities for cost avoidance through the safe disposal of waste products. Recycling primarily reduces the net consumption of certain chemical inputs to manufacturing by returning recycled materials to the value chain.The industries are focusing more towards the Green chemistry also known as the sustainable chemistry. Green

chemistry is the area of chemistry and chemical engineering is focused on the designing of products and processes that minimize the use and generation of hazardous substances. Green chemistry focuses on technological approaches to preventing pollution and reducing consumption of nonrenewable resources. Companies in the industry are focusing on preventing waste than to treat or clean up waste after it is formed, as it also helps in cost cutting. TVC: Major Challenges in Industry The chemical industry today is facing numerous challenges such as availability of raw materials, infrastructure & environment, duty structures, manpower etc. Location of Indian bulk chemical industry in the West coast, especially Gujarat, due to close proximity of raw materials and ports results in high transportation cost and distribution issues as majority of the demand comes from the end-use industries located in the Southern and Eastern regions. Availability of cheaper imported chemicals from low-cost manufacturing hubs like China give a major threat to Indian market. Lack of skilled manpower is also one the major issue faced by the industry. TVC: View on chemical market in India & overseas Chemical industry in India one of the diversified industry, covering around more than 80,000 commercial products.India is the third largest producer in Asia and sixth largest in the world. It is the mainstay of industrial and agricultural development of the country and providing building blocks for various downstream industries such as textiles, papers, paints, soaps, detergents, pharmaceuticals, automotive products etc.With the high significance of chemical industry in Indian economy,industry is expected to double its share in global chemical industry to 5-6% by 2021 registering growth of 8-9% in the coming decade.Government recognizes

Chemical Industry as a key growth element of Indian Economy and has introduced several policy measures in the Union Budget 2017-18 to provide impetus to the manufacturing sector. The Chemicals Industry in India is the principal consumer of its own products, consuming 33% of its output. With promising development slants in the Chemicals Industry, this inward utilization is additionally set to rise. With the continuous growth and development, the leading chemical companies in India are investing on expanding their operational capacity to meet ever growing chemical exports demand in India and abroad, attracting leading players from the international circuit to invest in India and become world’s top producer of chemicals. The two top countries that have been the major destinations for chemical exports from India for past several years include U.S.A and China. TVC: Company’s Business Strategies & Future Planning Started as a small manufacturing unit in 1994 with just five employees, to 300+ member organization, Resil chemicals has out grown with four internationally-certified manufacturing facilities with a capacity of 20,000 metric tons per year, exporting to more than 10 countries . It has also diversified into emerging technologybased products such as hand sanitizers, disinfectants and automotive detailing products. Company has a full-fledged sales operation in Bangladesh and has made inroads into Sri Lanka, Turkey, Philippines, UK and Thailand, also looking at growing worldwide with our innovative product. To cover increasing demand, we have has just opened the fourth and largest state of the art unit at Malur, Karnataka. We are a strong believer in the India story and India will remain our prime focus for the coming years.Resil Chemicals is a professionally managed company, but the next of gen has joined the company in various capacities.

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June 2017

POST SHOW REPORT

A premier exhibition of Technical Textiles, Technotex India 2017, commenced in Mumbai

umbai saw the inauguration of the 6th edition of TECHNOTEX-2017, India’s premier Exhibition on theme “Technical Textiles: Towards Future”. The exhibition is being organized by Ministry of Textiles & Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce & Industry (FICCI), together & will be held in the city from April 12th, 13th & to 14th at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon. Every year TECHNOTEX attracts participants, visitors and other key decision makers from a diverse section of the technical textile industry, with an aim to provide innovative solutions, identify new business opportunities and create an environment congenial for growth. It is the flagship event comprising of an international exhibition, conference, and seminars which serves as a common platform for interaction amongst stakeholders from across the global technical textile value chain. TECHNOTEX exemplifies the immense potential for trade and investment between India and foreign countries in technical textile sector. The inauguration ceremony witnessed the presence of state and industry dignitaries & was inaugurated by Shri Subhash Deshmukh, Hon’ble minister of Textiles Government of Maharashtra & Shri Rudrappa Lamani , Hon’ble Minister for Textiles, Government of Karnataka. Also present at the ceremony were Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Dr Kavita Gupta, Textiles Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and Chairman, FICCI Technical Textiles Task Force and, Ginni Filaments Shri Shishir Jaipuria amongst others. Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India and Shri Rudrappa Lamani , Hon’ble Minister for Textiles, Government of Karnataka on

June 2017

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this occasion released BIS Standards, Knowledge Report and Technotex 2017 Exhibition Directory. Addressing the august gathering at the 6th edition of TECHNOTEX-2017, Shri Rudrappa Lamani , Hon’ble Minister for Textiles, Government of Karnataka said “ It’s a privilege for me to participate in the 6th edition of Technotex organised by ministry of textiles and FICCI. It s one of the most potential sector and has been termed as a sun rise industry in India. With sufficient investments into the technology the industry would grow exponentially. Karnataka and Maharashtra governments have put in ample efforts to utilise their resources and unleash the potential in the textiles sector. I wish the organisers best of luck and all the success ahead.” Sharing his vision on the future of Technical Textiles in India, Shri Shishir Jaipuria, Chairman, FICCI Technical Textile Task Force and Managing Director, Ginni Filaments, said “This platform created by Ministry and FICCI has been a bridge for technology transfer, linkages, exchange of innovative ideas, joint ventures and showcase of what is happening around the globe. In India, the technical textile sector is growing significantly but it has been recognized as one of the most potential segment of the Textile Sector by the Government of India and Industry stakeholders alike. These functional textiles are used for their inherent performance enhancement properties in various field ranging from protective services, steel manufacturing, construction, agriculture, sports, nation security and food security etc.

international conference TECHNOTEX INDIA had drawn in more than 165 exhibitors, who showcased a varied collection of technical textiles from the various sub sectors of the technical textiles industry. With participation from 22 international countries like France, Ghana, Indonesia, Israel, Korea, Peru, Poland, United Kingdom, Belgium, South Africa, Sri Lanka, Uganda, Japan, Russia, Germany, U.S.A, Switzerland, Luxembourg, Sweden and Bangladesh the event had the country pavilions of China and Taiwan. Karnataka, Gujarat and Jharkhand were participating as partner states while Maharashtra was hosting the event. This year the exhibition also had focused pavilion of Centre of Excellence setup by the Government of India showcasing incubation and research facilities under the plug and play model. Technotex 2017 witnessed participation from states like Tamil Nadu, Telangana, Rajasthan, Bihar, North East Region States and Odisha. Technotex 2017 also attracted participation from stakeholders in technical textile sector as well as major institutional buyers from Army, Navy, Paramilitary forces, Railways, Border Roads Organizations, Hospitals, Construction companies etc. A gateway to the technical textile arena, the event bridges the gap between the buyer and seller by facilitating B2B and G2B

The exhibition and

POST SHOW REPORT

HGH India 2017 With its 6th edition, HGH India the annual trade show for Home Textiles, Home Décor, Gifts & Houseware in India where more than 500 brands, manufacturers and importers are presenting their range and innovations this year. The three day exposition was inaugurated by Ms. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner and Guest of Honour H. E. Mr. Erdal Sabri Ergen, Consul General, Turkey alongside other prominent industry leaders and dignitaries. On this occasion, Ms. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner said, “HGH India has created a unique trade show for Home Textiles, Home Décor, Gifts & Houseware category which provides a platform to traders across these segments to explore new business opportunities in the Indian market. The event showcases upcoming trends in the industry which will add invaluable insights to predict the market needs. From the textile industry point of view, the regional players get an exposure to national as well as international markets. HGH India has come a long way to become an in-

dustry hot spot for retailers, brands, manufacturers & importers not only from a business point of view but also aiding in category expansion.” Another key highlight of HGH India will be the complied handbook of home fashion trends presented under the theme ‘Across Time’. This compilation is a well researched forecast for the Indian domestic market for the year ahead. This book was unveiled by Ms. Kavita Gupta and the visitors can experience the physical manifestation of the trends at the ‘Trends Pavilion’ section where one can discover future trends in colours, designs and materials. There will be a special audio- walk through for the visitors to enhance their experience at the pavilion. The Home Textile Association of India also launched their first magazine called HTA Indoors at the occasion. HGH India aims to give retailers, all over India, new ideas and concepts to facilitate business. The trade show has provided business opportunities and development of new channel partners to exhibiting brands in order

to improve the trade. The strict B2B concept of HGH India has proven to be an inspiring and productive platform for exhibitors across rural and urban India, to push the home product retail market. About HGH India: HGH India, the annual trade show for Home Textiles, Home Décor, Gifts & Houseware is specially designed to connect Indian market for home products and gifts. High quality trade visitors at HGH India comprise of all categories of retailers spread across rural and urban India. They include department stores, hyper markets, specialty stores, high-end luxury stores and boutiques, traditional store owners, and online and electronic medium retailers. Institutional buyers, corporate gift buyers, interior designers, prospective agents and franchisees too come in large numbers. Besides these, leading Indian importers, distributors, buying agents and brand representatives attend HGH India to explore new business opportunities and partnerships.

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June 2017

YARN REPORT

YNFX MONTHLY PRICEWATCH REPORT – JUNE 2017 Crude oil Crude oil prices plunged to 5-month lows in May amid record trading volume in Brent crude, as OPEC and other producers apparently ruled out deeper production cuts to reduce the global bloating inventories and supply glut.Prices were also pressuredon worries that US President’s withdrawal from the climate accord could accelerate US production and flood the global oil market. US crude prices declined 5.3% on the month while Brent was down 4.9%as compared to previous month’s average. US Futures averaged US$48.49 a barrel, down US$2.72 from Apriland Brent averaged US$51.30a barrel, down US$2.63 on the month.Asian naphtha market continued its downward trajectory as cracks declined due to increasing length and softening demand. Reports from traders said that the market is getting weaker. The market remained soft, as cargoes continued to flow out from India, and less-than-expected demand was seen from Taiwan as it had last bought 100,000 ton for H2 June delivery.ForMay, spot naphtha prices fell 7.9% on the month to average US$439.58 a ton CFR Japan. POLYESTER CHAIN Ethylene prices continued to plunge in Asian markets, touching their 16-month lows in May under pressure from rising supply.In Europe, spot ethylene prices declined as markets remained bearish ahead of June contract price.In US, spot ethylene declined amid supply length as all USGC crackers were operational.Prices averaged US$991.00993.00 a ton CFR SE Asia, down 6.1% from April while European spot edged down 6.9% to average Euro1,038.40-

June 2017

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1,043.40 a ton FD NWE. US spot prices were down 1.6% on the month to average US cents 28.33-28.83 per pound FD USG.Paraxylene prices edged down in Asian markets as demand for July was seen weakening and decline in energy complex.In Europe, liquidity in the paraxylene markets ebbed on the month, while volatility increased in line with the energy complex.In US, paraxylene spot prices gained on stronger feedstock.Asian marker, the CFR China averaged US$804.43-805.43 a ton, down 4.2% from last monthwhile European paraxylene fell 4.6% to US$712.00 a ton FOB Rotterdam. In US, spot paraxylene was at US$765 a ton FOB USG, up 0.7% on the month. Mono ethylene glycol prices inched up in May on incremental demand in China as polyester plants were restarting.European MEG spot prices were stable in a quiet market.In US, MEG spot was down tracking weaker upstream pricing and improving supply as Indorama was back after turnaround.MEG prices averaged US$724.40-729.40 a ton FOB SE Asia, up 1.7% in Maywhile European spot was at Euro750 a ton NWE FCA, unchanged on the month. US spot was at UScents 30.75-31.75 per pound FOB USG, down 14.6% on the month. Purified terephthalic acid prices fell in Asian markets driven by weaker upstream and domestic markets.In Europe, PTA prices continued to move down as downstream PET markets remained bearish due to weak demand.Prices averaged US$615.20617.20 a ton CFR China, fell 2.7% from April while European price was at Euro670a ton FD NWE,down 2.9% on the month. Polyester chip markets saw insipid trading atmosphere during the month. Offers for semi dull chips dipped 4.4% to US$949-961a ton and super bright chip slid 2.1% to US$971-985 a ton. Polyester filament yarn markets in China saw thinner buying interest in Mayand sellers reduced offers to push volumes out citing bearish future expectations.In India, POY prices were down amid thin liquidity as buyers maintained lowest demand.In Pakistan, selling indications for DTY yarn rolled over, as downstream demand was limited on the back of high raw material stocks.In China, POY 75/72 prices fell US cents 10 a kg at US$1.19-1.22 a kgin Shengze while Indian POY 130/34 prices were down cents 5 at US$1.46 a kg. In Pakistan, 300/96 DTY prices were at US$0.66-0.71 a pound, unchanged on the month.Polyester staple fibre prices in China moved down as demand was weak and downstream traders and spun yarn makers were cautious to replenish inventories, forcing producers to lower offers continuously.In India, PSF prices were stable during the month.In Pakistan, PSF prices dropped in line with a continuous fall of import offers from China.In China, 1.4D PSF was at US$1.06-1.09 a kg, down US cents

YARN REPORT 4 from April. In India, 1.2D PSF prices were at US$1.25 per kg, rolling over from previous month. In Pakistan, prices in Karachi were at US$1.18-1.20 a kg, down US cents 2 on the month. NYLON CHAIN Benzene prices fell in Asian markets in May amid cautious movements and thin demand as buyers continued to hold back.In Europe, benzene spot prices plunged on the month following bearish movement in crude oil markets. In US too, benzene spot declined and contracts settled lower.Asian marker, FOB Korea declined8.1% in Mayto average US$742.50-743.50 a ton while US spot prices fell4.6% to US cents 264.15-264.25 per gallon FOB USG. European spot was down4.6% to average US$810.80811.80 a ton CIF ARA and FOB Rotterdam. Caprolactam prices continued to remain under pressure on the back of low benzene values and moderate demand. In China, offers for liquid goods in spot market fell further while values for East European goods softened amid slow liquidity.Downstream demand was moderate with run rates at polymerization units up at 71% and inventory down to 9 days’ worth.Asian caprolactam spot prices averaged US$1,540.00-1,680.00 a ton in May, down 16.8% from last month.Sinopec raised its May nomination to US$1,670 a ton (up US$30) for liquid while Fibrant settled May contract at US$1,660 a ton. Nylon chip markets continued to remain under weak variation in May on back of falling caprolactum values and low benzene markets. Downstream converters maintained production, leading to rigid demand for nylon chip. In non‐textile yarn sectors, cord fabric makers enjoyed decent liquidity while staple fiber market saw moderate demand and monofilament markets were covered by favorable atmosphere.Offers for Taiwan-origin chips averaged US$1,776-1,860 a ton, down 6% from last month. In China, bright conventional spinning nylon-6 chips were priced at US$1,880-2,014, fell 4.5% from April while semi-dull chips were offered at US$1,884-1,962 a ton, down6.8% on the month.Nylon filament yarn price declinedon relieved cost pressure and cautious buying sentiment. Downstream converters maintained stable operation, implying rigid demand with bargain hunting activities. Warp‐knitting, weaving and AJ covering sectors operated at 75% capacity, while circular‐knitting mills and lacing mills ran at 50% capacities.In China, semi-dull

FDY70D/24F was traded at US$2.44-2.50 a kg, down US cents 16 from previous month while FDY40D were at US$2.61-2.73 a kg, down US cents 20. ACRYLIC CHAIN Propylene prices in May rallied in Asian markets due to supply tightness as major producers planned turnaround.In US, spot propylene was down amid weaker upstream.In Europe, propylene June initial contract price was fully settled at a decrease from the May contract price prompting spot to edge down.Asian marker, FOB Korea averaged US$823.60-825.60 a ton, rose1.8% from April, and CFR China was at US$859.20-861.20 a ton, up 3.2% from previous month. In Europe, CG propylene dipped 5.3% to Euro 791.00-795.40 a ton FD while spot polymer-grade propylene prices in US were at US$36.15-36.95 per pound ton FD, fell13.3%.Acrylonitrile prices edged down in Asian markets on waning demand during the month. European ACN prices were stable to up amid supply tightness. In US, spot ACN was higher amid tightness while Brazilian goods headed to US.European prices were up0.8% to US$1,704.00-1,708.00 a ton CIF Med while US export assessments averaged at US$1,611.00-1,631.00 a ton USG, climbed 0.4% on the month. Asian marker, the CFR Far East Asia inched down2.2% to average US$1,540.001,542.00 a ton. Acrylic fiber markets in China saw prices rise in May and exports were becoming favorable while producers saw slow sales in a stagnant domestic market.Reportedly, many cotton spinning mills switched their products, while woolen yarn makers were confronted with heavy inventory pressure.In India, insipid demand and sluggish sales, kept ASF prices range bound. In Pakistan ASF prices were lifted as market held modest mindset, awaiting demand to improve in future, despite current lackluster liquidity. In China, offers for cotton-type staple roseUS cents 4 at US$2.25-2.31 a kg and medium-length staple were up US cents 5 at US$2.26-2.32 a kg.Sinopec Chemicals released June list prices for ASF, flat to the previous month with 1.5D pegged at US$2.30-2.31 a kg. Taiwan origin 3D bright ASF tow offers were flat at US$2.00-2.05 a kg. PetroChina cut its May settlement prices by US cent 0.50, with cotton‐ type fiber at US$2.25 a kg, medium‐length at US$2.26 a kg, and 3D tow at US$2.29 a kg. Indian offers for ASF were steady at INR148-150 a kg (US$2.30-2.32 a kg).In Pakistan, 1.2D ASF prices were at US$1.94a kg, up US cents 3 on the

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June 2017

YARN REPORT month. Indian ASF prices were at US$2.32 a kg, down US cent 1 from April. VISCOSE CHAIN Viscose staple fibre prices in Maymoved downin China as producers faced high inventory pressure and offered discounts on final deals.In China, offers for VSF averaged US$2.30 a kg, down US cents 10 on the month.In Pakistan, VSF market extended insipid sentiment, with transactions not improving and prices spiraling down. In India, prices rolled over despite continued short‐covering activities of some converters. In Pakistan, 1.5D VSF prices fell US cents 7 at US$2.30 a kg. In India, producers’ prices were at US$2.23 a kg, dipped US cent 1from last month. Viscose filament yarn offers in China weakened as liquidity was lusterless and downstream buying sentiment was cautious.In India, although prices were flat in INR terms, they were down in US$ terms as exports were still modest.In China, 120D dull VFY offers averaged at US$5.92a kg while bright slipped US cents 3 at US$6.00 a kg. In India, 120D bright VFY was at US$6.10a kg, down US cents 2 from last month. Dissolving pulp markets in Asia saw sentiment stalemated during the month. Offers for hardwood pulp were at US$820-830 a ton while softwood pulp was at US$900 a ton. COTTON Cotton futures on the ICE hit a near-three year high in May, supported by demand from pending mill fixations and fund buying amid stocks tightening.Mills with unfixed sales were trapped by tightening US supplies and bullish speculators.In China, the surge in US futures led to brisk spot trading on the domestic cotton markets. Most ginneries were sitting on lean inventory, and players held bullish expectations over the future trend.The July contract on ICE Futures US jumped2% for the month to average US cents 78.64. The Cotlook A index rose1.5% closing May at an average of US cents 88.25 per pound. The China Cotton inched up 1% on the month to 16,046.40 yuan a ton.In Pakistan, cotton markets were firm while physical prices rose on improved demand of quality lint besides buyers buying better grades of lint at premium. The official spot rate averaged at PakRs6,905.50 per maund ex-Karachi, up 0.5% on the month.Indian cotton markets were mixed with some varieties gaining and some retreating, but finer quality cotton rolling over. Most varieties saw prices plunge 0.8-2.4% in May.

June 2017

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SPUN YARN Cotton yarn markets in China were lukewarm in May and demand still weak with transactions mainly concluded for 21s and 32s yarn. Recently, inventory was piling up at spinning mills, while overall operation rates hovered at high positions, implying bearish market outlook in the short run. With shrinking spot trades, prices likely to continue fluctuating amid sidelined stance.In India, cotton yarn prices rose in Ludhiana, in line with the fresh increase in few specsof cotton prices. In Pakistan, cotton yarn prices remained relatively stable on domestic and export markets while trading activities were reduced with approaching fiscal year end.In China, 32s carded cotton yarn in Shengze market was up US cent 1 at US$3.383.46 a kg while 21s combed were at US$3.42-3.49 a kg, up US cent 1 fromApril. In India, 30s combed for knitting were at US$3.31 a kg, up US cents 4 on the month. In Pakistan, 20s carded yarn was at US$2.73 a kg, unchanged on the month while 30s carded were at US$3.09 a kg, rolling over from previous month. Polyester spun yarn markets in China were under correction in May as transactions were moderate and some specs saw better sales. In Pakistan, polyester yarn prices generally rolled over in line with range bound PSF markets. In India, offers for spun polyester yarn were steady to firm as PSF market was stable during the month. In Shengze, offers for 32s polyester yarn were at US$1.671.69 a kg, down US cents 3 from April.In India, 30 polyester knit yarns were at US$1.95 a kg, down US cents 2 in Ludhiana market. In Pakistan, 30s spun polyester was at US$2.59 a kg, down US cents 2 on the month.Viscose spun yarn markets were weak in China amid modest liquidity. In Pakistan, viscose yarn prices edged down as VSF prices declined with import offers from China dropping and domestic prices losing more than yarn price reduction. In India, viscose yarn prices were much more stable, given the stability in VSF cost.In Xiaoshan, 30s spun viscose were at US$2.78 a kg, down US cents 12on the month. In India, 30s viscose prices were at US$2.77 a kg, up US cent1 in Indore market. In Pakistan, 35s viscose yarn were down US cents 6at US$2.92 a kg in Karachi. Blended yarn prices in May rolled over in China’s domestic market, as activity was reduced by a holiday shortened month. On the import market too, prices were relatively stable, due to slightly dropping in US$ terms whereas ris-

GST REVIEW ing in yuan terms. In Pakistan, PC yarns prices have been stable on the month and in last three months, irrespective of changes in PSF prices in the meantime. This clearly shows sign that margins of PC yarn producers were in positive zone. In India, PC and PV yarn prices also rolled over both but exporters were reportedly struggling at these price levels on the international market.In India, PC 30s (52/48) were at US$2.66 a kg in Ludhiana market,

down US cent 1 from previous month while PV 30s (65/35) were at US$2.28 a kg, down US cents 2 from last month. In Pakistan, PC 30s fell US cents 3 at US$2.69 a kg on the Faisalabad market. In Qianqing market, polyester-cotton 32s (65/35) were traded at US$2.50 a kg, down US cent 1 while 45s (65/35) yarn were at US$3.38 a kg, up US cent 1 on the month.

GST launched in a glittering ceremony, Textile industry braces for darker days ahead

fter a wait of more than a decade, Goods and Services Tax (GST) finally comes into effect from July 01, 2017. Terming it the “biggest tax reform ever” in independent India, the Union Government convened a Special Session of Parliament for the launch of GST. In the presence of Vice-President of India Mohammad Hamid Ansari, LokSabha Speaker SumitraMahajan, Union Finance Minister ArunJaitleyand other dignitaries on June 30, 2017 midnight, President Pranab Mukherjee and Prime Minister NarendraModijointly announced the beginning of GST regime in India. The GST rollout comes after a lot of deliberations and revisions in rates of goods and services under various sectors. Indian Textiles, considered as one among the essential sectors, wasso far exempted from taxes. With the implementation of GST, the textiles sector too comes under the ambit of tax. A glance at GST rates showed that those associated with the sector will not only pay a higher tax on yarn purchase, especially synthetic and man-made fiber yarns, but they will also have to pay taxes on entire supply chain and at each stage of manufacturing. Garment and fabric manufacturers are worried about the impact of GST since, except for a brief period when Excise Duty was levied on it, they were by and large been free from any tax burden. Hence to allay the industry fear, Union Textile Minister SmritiIrani conveyed special messages and announced to constitute a separate GST cell at @TexMinIndia to guide stakeholders.

Prime MinisterModi too, while addressing at the inauguration ceremony of the “Textiles India 2017”, in Gandhinagar, Gujarat barely few hours before the GST rollouton June 30, 2017, reassured the industry that the event will go a long way in realizing India’s inherent potential to become one of the most significant textiles and apparel sourcing and investment destinations. Assurances fail to ease tension Assurances by Prime Minister Modi and Union Textile Minister SmirtiIrani however have failed to ease the ten-

sion and fear rampant in the industry ever since the GST rollout was announced. “It is deadlyto say the least, especially for the decentralized textile sector”, AjoyBhattchariya, former President of South Gujarat Chamber of Commerce, said while talking to Textile Value Chain. “A quick calculation of the existing GST rates can reveal that there is about 7-8% cost difference between composite and decentralized units. The survival of decentralized units will be tough if GST goes in its present form”, he added, saying those in decentralized sector will pay tax at more points than a vertically-integrated company, which will pay just at the end of the production process. He said GST rates are different for cotton and synthetic yarns, and there are a good number of manufacturers who manufacture blended fabrics using cotton and synthetic yarns both at weaving stage. “The GST structure is not only complicated but it is almost impossible for such manufacturersto properly maintain accounts”, he said. Textile industry in India caters to the livelihood of more than 6 million families, and is second largest sector after agriculture. But, majority of people associated with the industry comes under decentralized and unorganized sector. And it is they who, the industry insiders say, may be at loss under GST regime. “The GST will eliminate small traders like me. I have just started the business. I am already paying rent for my shop and, now I will need to cough up at least Rs 20,000 to hire an accountant to help me with filing returns for the GST,” Mukesh Jain, a Textile Trader, is quoted as saying by Indian Express. Agreeing with Mukesh Jain, ManojAgarwal,President of Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association (FSTTA), says, “The government instead of recovering the 12 per cent GST (which we used to pay as VAT) on yarn, it has imposed GST on the entire supply chain which includes

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June 2017

GST REVIEW yarn manufactures, weavers, processors, embroiderers, and traders. This is not acceptable to us.” Domestic Textile Prices to go up People associated with the industry are demanding from the government since last three years to impose antidumping duty on fabrics from outside India to curb uncontrolled imports from China.With the government still heeding to this demand, comes GST implementation after which it is feared that Chinese imports will go further up. “The twin factors of higher tax on synthetic yarn and lower tax on fabric could double imports from China as prices of domestic fabric would rise”, Sri NarainAggarwal, Chairman, Synthetic and Rayon Textiles Exports Promotion Council is quoted by Business-Standard. According to him,at present India’s fabric import from China, largely synthetic and cheaper by around 10 per cent,is estimated at around Rs.4,000crore. Protests across country Amid rising concerns and lack of clarity on how the market will move post-GST implementation, textile manufacturers and traders across India are on war-path since last one month. Protests were held at Delhi’s JantarMantar in the second week of June. After the protest at JantarMantar failed to move the union government, a three-day agitation was called in Ahmedabad, Surat and other textile clusters from June 27-29 – the time when Prime Minister Modi was in Gandhinagar for the launch of 3-day event “Textiles India 2017”. Members of the Tamil Nadu Power Loom Federation are also on strike in Salem, Karur and Namakkal districts against GST and seeking to exempt the industry from the tax. “We pay tax for the yarn, and again paying tax for the finished product is not justified”, a federation member said.“Moreover, being small scale, the GST taxation procedure is too complicated.” Textile traders in Kolkata are also up in arms against the government as they feel that the cascading effect of the GST will spike the prices of readymade garments. “Textile has been classified under essential commodity/ goods of special importance. Crores of livelihoods are associated with it. It will spell doom for both the textile business and other ancillary industries associated with it,” ArunBhuwalka, president of the Chamber of Textile Trade and Industry, id quoted by The Times of India.

“

According to Mahendra Jain, Secretary of the chamber, Bengal stands to lose the most if the GST is not rolled back. “Bengal is not a manufacturing state anymore. It is a hub for value addition because the artisans are based here. If the tax is levied, why will the manufacturing states send raw materials to Bengal?” he asked. Threatening to intensify the stir FSTTA President ManojAgarwal said, “We have so far decided not to register ourselves under GST and if a solution is not found by June 30, then we will go for an indefinite strike.” There are some who are upbeat Not everyone is unhappy with the GST implementation. There is a section in the industry that is upbeat and feels rejuvenated. “As the textile sector has been under the optional route since 2004 and fabrics under the zero VAT rate, 5 per cent GST would bring substantial revenue and ensure tax compliance as well”, M Senthilkumar, Chairman of the Southern India Mills’ Association Chairman, said. “The 5 per cent GST rate on cotton fiber would benefit 20 million cotton farmers, while the same rate on readymade garments below Rs.1,000 would benefit the common man”, he added. As against the majority view, some industry insiders even feel that the GST implementation at its initial stage may be tricky for decentralized sector. But, they will definitely gain in the longer run. “A significant portion of the textile industry in India operates under the unorganized sector or composition scheme, thus creating a gap in flow of input tax credit. Input tax credit is not allowed if the registered taxpayers procure the inputs from composition scheme taxpayers or the unorganized sector. GST would enable a smoother input credit system, which would shift the balance towards the organized sector”, industry sources said.

Mr. Aleem Faizee

People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use. ― Søren Kierkegaard

June 2017

”

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SURAT REPORT MMF traders starts indefinite strike opposing GST : Business losses of more than Rs.1000 crore Country’s largest Man-Made Fabric (MMF) production centre, Surat is come to a grinding halt as over 70,000 textile traders has started indefinite strike against the Goods and Servives tax (GST) regime. Earlier in June, Textile GST Sangarsh Samiti (TGSS) has demanded exemption from GST and had kept total 4 days of strike. But when central government has not given any relief and refused their demand, the samiti has called indefinite strike from July 3. The entire textile industries including weaving, processing, trading is adversely affected and incurred business losses to the tune of over Rs. 1000 crore in total week period. Powerloom weavers and textile traders are unhappy with higher tax rates of 18 per cent on yarn and 5 per cent on fabrics under GST regime. On monday(3rd July) morning, the situation at the textile markets on Ring Road was tensed as large numbers of traders gathered to protest against GST. Some group of people and police were enforcing the traders to open their shops and when they refused, police resorted to lathicharge. After the police action, traders shouted slogans against local leaders and government at the Centre. All the 165 textile markets on the Ring Road shut on the part of the indefinite strike call given by the Textile GST Sangarsh Samiti. Textile market sources said, there are complexities in the GST rates, on the man-made fabric (MMF) sector. While cotton attracts a uniform 5% rate, the synthetic fabric attracts 18 % at yarn stage, 5% at fabric stage and 5% at the job-work stage. Moreover, the option for claiming input tax credit (ITC) has been removed for the sector. There is too much paper work and small traders has to face immense difficulties. The implementation of GST would badly hit small and medium textile and its allied industries. The samiti members and traders declared that they will not accept GST and will observe bandh(strike) until their demand for exemtion from GST will not be accepted. Due to the traders strike, there is no demand of grey fabrics and hence production of around 3 crore meter of fabrics manufactured by powerloom weaving sector has come to a standstill. The textile powerloom factory owners has cut down the grey fabrics production upto 60%. In some industrial area, weavers had shut their factories for 3 days in a week and are running machines in one

shift only. Consequently, textile processors and embroidery machine owners does not have any job-work. It is noticable that, over 10 lakh workers in the textile markets, powerloom weaving units, textile processing sector, embroidery units and ancillary units are bearing the brunt of the strike. GST effect : Yarn prices surge upto Rs. 3/kg. The synthetic yarn prices in the city increased upto Rs.3/ kg. after implemention of Goods and Servives tax (GST) from July-1. The Central Government has fixed 18 per cent GST on man-made fibre and yarn and this has lead to surge prices in the first week of July. The prices of all qualities of texurised yarn, Airtex deniers and Roto based deniers are increased by Rs.2/kg. and all deniers of FDY yarn suged upto Rs.3/kg. Though the prices are up but powerloom owners are not keen to stock yarn. Because of lack of grey fabrics demand, the weavers has stopped yarn puchase and have cut the production due to confusion in new GST tax system. Yarn manufacturers, spinners are afraid of stock clearence. The textile traders are demanding exemption from the GST and are on indefinite strike. Market sourced said, the higher 18% GST tax slabs at yarn stage has hit hard the small weavers of the city. The weavers are in wait and watch mode to stock yarn until the situation is clear. 18% higher GST : Huge quantity of Cheap chinese MMF dump in Surat Surat Man-Made Fibre (MMF) producers has made representation to government to reduce 18% higher GST on MMF and yarn. They fear thet higher tax rate will pressurise local manufacturers to source yarn and fabrics at a cheaper rate from China and other countries. As per new tax system the chinese synthetic fabrics cost will come down upto 19 per cent. The production cost of MMF, synthetic fibre and yarn are higher in India compared to China, Indonesia and South Korea. Moreover, these countries have lowest tax and high export incentives to produce and supply MMF textile goods in the global market. 18% higher GST rate on MMF, yarns will adversely affect the domestic MMF fibre and yarn industry. India’s textile MSME sector will not sustain on account of high tax rate and result in distorting production and consumption. A big quantity of cheap fabrics will dump in local market and this will paralyzed the MMF sector in the city.

“ Remove grace, and you have nothing whereby to be saved.

Remove free will and you have nothing that could be saved.

”

Anselm of Canterbury

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June 2017

GST VIEWS

Some Views From Kalbadevi Market, Mumbai, Maharashtra, INDIA. Mr. Vinod Chotani, MD of Sudha Mills India Pvt. Ltd. GST is new buzz word for India but in the world it is following from many years. GST is efficient Tax system where different substitute taxes demolishes and only one single TAX is imposed that is Goods & Service Tax. GST will make our system more transparent and strengthen our economy. In the system of this tax, Our PM Mr. Narendra Modi had given assurance of getting the input credit money within 7 to 10 days.

Mr. Shiv Kanodia, Ex- Hon General Secretary, Bharat Merchant Chamber GST is something new, as a association GST has a diversified view. Every Association has their different point of view. Textile Industry is very complex as far as its diversity is concern. So some people are against GST as we Indian not adopt change easily, but it’s gradually effective in future. GST close down Multi Window Taxation, it must came much before. Textile Industry needs to be organized and adopt changes which ultimate outcome is our nation progress is our progress.

Mr. Manish Kumar, MD of Shree Mahavir Textiles GST is good but there are some drawbacks of GST, like we deliver goods with imposed GST and if goods returned after 4 or 6 months then what will be the situation? Government bluntly says that if no GST no business. We are assuming that in next 2 year there will be no profit, it will be lot of downfall due to GST, and it may bring recession in India. New changes are good but not implementation. Through GST government want to digitalize everything. 50% of the traders doesn’t know English, Computer, how one can clear the blotted picture of GST? Before implementing GST government need to educate traders about it.

Mr. Narendra Mehta, MD of D.S. Textiles, Treasurer of SMSMA GST, the new tax system which may be complicated it seems because most of the SME traders with sole Proprietorship are illiterate they don’t even know how to fill cheque, how they will do E transaction? First Government had to literate people regarding GST because Textile trader never pay service tax they pay only Octroi. So GST is new and its very difficult days as demonetization. As association we are trying to make trader aware by circulate pamphlets of GST number registration. There are lots of clauses in GST which is still not very clear.

June 2017

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NEWS

Strong Demand For ITMA 2019 Exhibition Space 25% of space snapped up within first six weeks of launch ITMA 2019, the world’s largest textile and garment technology, has received strong response since online applications opened in May. Some 25% of the exhibition space has been booked by more than 300 exhibitors during the first six weeks, according to ITMA Services, the organiser of ITMA 2019. Mr A.E. Roberts, Managing Director of ITMA Services, attributed the strong demand to the success of ITMA 2015 and the rapid technological developments within the textile and garment industry. He said, “We are delighted with this excellent response. The total space booked to-date is an impressive 150% increase when compared with the same period of ITMA 2015’s application launch.” He added, “ITMA has an excellent reputation and many global industry players are looking forward to using it as a launch pad for their new innovations. Among the sectors that have enjoyed the greatest take-up so far are finishing, printing, spinning, weaving and knitting, and we are

particularly pleased with the strong response from Asian countries, particularly India which has already surpassed 60% of the total space it booked in the 2015 show. It is also encouraging to see that manufacturers of raw materials and garment machinery are also applying early, and our exhibitors clearly appreciate the fact that ITMA is a complete, end-toend solutions showcase, from fibre to finished textile products.” Mr Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, which owns the ITMA exhibition, explained: “There is an enormous amount of research and development in the textile and garment industry, resulting in exciting new technologies and valueadded products. “Some of the powerful innovation drivers impacting the industry include digitisation of products, processes and supply chains, as well as sustainability. Hence, despite the challenging business climate, the demand for leading-edge products continues to grow, and technology providers are still leveraging on ITMA 2019 to launch their new solutions to global

textile and garment manufacturers and brands.” The last ITMA exhibition, held in Milan in 2015, drew the participation of 1691 exhibitors from 46 countries. A post-show exhibitor survey found that over 90% of them rated their overall experience ‘good’ or ‘excellent’, and 93% indicated their interest to return to exhibit at the next ITMA, and that there is a strong competitive advantage exhibiting at ITMA compared with other shows. ITMA 2019 will be held from 20 to 26 June 2019 at Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via venue. Featuring the theme ‘Innovating the World of Textiles’, it will have exhibits showcasing an integrated textile and garment manufacturing value chain. Divided into 19 chapters, exhibits also include yarns, fibres and fabrics, and solutions for technical textiles and nonwovens, and garment making. Manufacturers interested to participate in ITMA 2019 should apply for space online at www.itma.com. For participation enquiries, please email: application@itma.com.

Carbon Fiber Development Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA Australian scientists have developed an improved carbon fiber manufacturing process which could result in low cost of carbon fibers. Maxime Maghe and Steve Atkiss, associated with Deakin University’s Carbon Nexus have invented a process that reduces energy with carbon fiber manufacturing by 75% and speedsup the production process. Deakin University has licensed the

technology to LeMond Composites, founded by Mr. Greg LeMond, three-time Tour de France champion. “Technology developed by Carbon Nexus will feed the world with low cost carbon fiber,” said, Mr. LeMond. There is a plan to have a carbon fiber manufacturing plant in Geelong with investment from LeMond Composites. Furnace Engineering of Victoria, Australia will be supplying machinery for this venture.

Carbon Nexus and LeMond Composites is first of its kind from Carbon Nexus, stated Derek Buckmaster, Director of Carbon Nexus. Carbon Nexus was formed at Deakin in 2014 with investments from Australian Government, local and state agencies and Deakin University. Mr. LeMond was the first cyclist to win Tour de France using carbon fiber bike.

The licensing agreement between

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June 2017

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SHOW CALENDAR

July 2017 10-12

NGF by CMAI Place : Mumbai/ India, info : www.cmai.in

20-22

YARNEX 2017 Place: Delhi/ India, info: www.yarnex.in

20-22

F&A SHOW Place : Delhi/ India, info: www.fnashow.in

20-22

29-31

Indian Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Show 2017 Place: Delhi/ India, info: www.epch.in/ifjas GARTEX 2017 Place : Delhi/ India info: http://gartexindia.com

August 2017 11-13

KNIT SHOW Place : Tirupur/ India, info: http://www.knitshow.in/

18-20

GTE Place: Ahmedabad/ India, info: www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com

September 2017 3-6

The National Exhibition Centre Place : Birmingham/UK, info: members@epch.com

8-12

Maison & Object Place: Paris/France, info: seminar@epch.com

13-15

TechTexil India 2017 Place : Mumbai/ India, info: http://techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com/

21-23

YARNEX / TEXINDIA Place : Tirupur/ India, info: www.yarnex.in , www.texindiafair.com

21-23

29-31

IHGF Delhi Fair Autumn 2017 Place: Delhi/India, info: www.ihgfdelhifair.epch.in

20-23

Asian Gift & Premium and Household Product Show Place: Hong Kong , info: maiprojects@epch.com

Screen Print East Africa Place: Nairobi/ Kenya, info: www.screenprinteastafrica.com

November 2017 1-3

International Textile & Apparel Show Place: Dubai/ UAE, info: www.internationalapparelandtextilefair.com

15-17

INTEX South Asia Place: Colombo/ Srilanka, info: www.intexfair.com

17-20

Texfair 2017 Place: Coimbatore / India,

22-25

YFA SHOW 2017 Place : Delhi/ India, info: www.yfatradeshow.com

December 2017 2-10

Afl Artigiano in Fiera Place: Milan/Italy, info: intlfair@epch.com

5-7

China Machinex India/ China Homelife India Place : Mumbai/ Maharashtra, info : www.chlmx.com

7-10

ITMACH INDIA/ ITS Exhibition Place : Gandhinagar / Gujarat , info: www.ITMACH.com / www.ITSexhibition.com

January 2018 9-12

HEIMTEXTIL Place: Frankfurt/Germany, Info:ihgf.epch@epch.com

February 2018 4-8

Spring Fair Place: Birmingham/UK, info: members@epch.com

9-13

Ambiente Place: Frankfurt/Germany, info: seminar@epch.com

October 2017 13-17

Manila Fame 2017 Place: Metro Manila, Philippines, info: seminar@epch.com

www.textilevaluechain.com

June 2017

Tuff Timer Pulley® Gears & Planetary Gear Box Gear Pumps for Food & Chemicals

Salient Features of Tuff Timer Pulley®

Beware of Duplicate products made from inappropriate plastic material

June 2017

www.textilevaluechain.com

June 2017

MBR Groups We Manufacture Group Company

(An ISO 9001:2008 Certified Company)

Our Services

Mr. Mukesh Balvantrai Rotliwala under its brand “MBRTM” since 2014, but he has earned a reputation for over thirty five years as a reliable supplier of premium Asahi Bemberg Fabrics. Mr. Mukesh is producing exclusive Asahi Bemberg Chiffon, Georgette Chinon-Chiffon, and Crepe etc. fabrics with plain & jacquard design work since 35 years. Mr. Mukesh provide to the furnishing fabrics market with products such as Sarees , Dress Materials Dupattas and Jacquards, manufactured from Asahi Bemberg Yarn. The Firm purchases major Raw Materials from Japan, German, China and local also. The Firm basically makes fabrics of extraordinary quality from yarn purchased from above countries. Most of the sales of the fabrics are in all part of India, Delhi, mumbai, kolkata, Punjab, Haryana,and U.P are major consumers of Asahi Bemberg and viscose Fabrics. Customer Satisfaction is our motivation. We are the biggest consumer of Asahi Bemberg Cupro Fiber in Surat city

Our Product

Products from Asahi Bemberg Yarn (JAPAN)

Chiffon

Crepe

Georgette

Chinon

Jacqurd

Satin

We print Dress Materials and saress of polyester fabrics; we specialize in Foil Print, Nakshatra Jari Print, Brasso Print and all over print. Saress: Saress are Printed in our factory is being sold in south region such as Chennai, Coimbatore, Trichi Etc. Dress Materials: Dress Materials are Processed in our factory is being sold in local market and also exports to United Arab Emirates, Afghanistan, Europe and many more countries

MBR Groups 210/155A, New Bamroli Road, Khatodara, Surat, Gujarat – 395 002 Email: mbrotliwala@yahoo.com | Web: www.mbrgroups.co Phone: +91 261 2635618, +91 261 2632658 | ( +919925143536 June 2017 www.textilevaluechain.com

www.textilevaluechain.com

June 2017

LARGEST INTERNATIONAL

TEXTILE SOURCING SHOW IN SOUTH ASIA

9 10 December 2017

Venue: The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground, Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India

DISCOVER

COLLABORATE

PROSPER

Market Opportunities

With New Partners

In The Global Marketplace

PRODUCT CATEGORIES Fiber Yarn Suiting & Shirting Fabrics Ladies Wear & Dress Materials Knits Denim Home Textiles & Sheeting Fashion Fabrics Khadi & Handlooms Sustainable & Eco Textiles SPACE BOOKING: Arvind Semlani : +91 9833977743 Email: info@ITMACH.com Radhika Boddu : +91 9867127598 Email: info@itsexhibition.com Bhavesh Thakar : +91 9375322449 Email: allgujaratspinnersassociation@gmail.com ORGANIZERS

K AND D ITMACH EXPOSITIONS LLP Spinners Association (Gujarat) SUPPORTING PARTNERS

June 2017

www.textilevaluechain.com

SAG

MEDIA PARTNERS

SKBS

Advt.

SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS SHR

Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com

50 Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 Address:

www.textilevaluechain.com

June 2017

Advt.

June 2017

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June 2017

www.textilevaluechain.com

June 2017

Linen and Egyptian Giza Cotton Fashion Fabrics for Men

June 2017

www.textilevaluechain.com

June 2017