TEXTILE
VALUE CHAIN
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June 2018
Volume 6
Issue 6
Spunless Technology For Home Textile China Changing? Sustainable Fibre : Clothing From Viloft Fibers Market Report : Yarn / Cotton / Surat Chemical Risk Management In Textile Sustainable Management Technical Article Interview : Mr. Dharmendra Shah, Ozone PB Spintex Ltd.
Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting OďŹƒce,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 12/13 of month | Pages 52
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Sustainable Solution
ECO PULSARS: A STEP FORWARD TO ECO-SYSTEMS AND SUSTAINABILITY Use of energy, production of waste/dust and noise are the key environmental aspects of the spinning production process. EcoPulsarS, with its innovative platform, can save up to 30% power bill, reduce yarn waste, air conditioning costs & noise inside the spinning room.
SAVIO INDIA LTD Nallattipalayam, Tamaraikulam Post Pollachi, Coimbatore 642109 Tamil Nadu, India Phone : +91 4259 304555 Fax : +91 4259 304567 www.textilevaluechain.com www.savioindia.com
SAVIO MACCHINE TESSILI S.P.A. 33170 PORDENONE (Italy) Via Udine, 105 www.saviospa.com June 2018
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YEARS
India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of
Torrey Twister
GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS
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RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet
TEMPLES
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A new dimension in productivity, quality and easy operation Draw Frame SB/RSB-D 50 The new single-head draw frame generation from Rieter offers an unprecedented level of productivity with the highest quality q-r.to/baq4xN
standards. The patented drive concept ECOrized uses 25% less belts, saves up to 1 000 euros per year on energy costs and now allows higher delivery speeds, for example for polyester and combed cotton. The unique SLIVERprofessional expert system is integrated on the easy-to-use touchscreen. Assortment changeover times are significantly reduced.
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The Comfort of Competence
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5/28/2018
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EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Chief Editor Graphic Designer
: Ms. Jigna Shah : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar : Mr. Anant A. Jogale
INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda Mr. Manohar Samuel Dr. M. K. Talukdar Mr. Shailendra Pandey Mr. Ajay Sharma Mr. Avinash Mayekar Dr. N.N. Mahapatra
: : : : : : :
EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor : Dr. Ela Dedhia : Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay : Dr. Rajan Nachane :
City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries VP, Kusum gar Corporates VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Consulting Editor President, Colorant Ltd.
HOD knitting, SASMIRA Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Professor, Dean ICT Principal Scientist and Head MPD Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONTENT
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.
JUNE 2018 ISSUE
13- Spunlace technology for Home Textile by Mr. Avinash Mayekar, Suvin Advisor 14- China Changing? by Mr. Arvind Sinha, Business Advisors Group 17- Sustainable Fibre: Clothing from Viloft Fibres by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra
MARKET REPORT
27- Texellence 2018 by CII 29- VDMA Meet Indian Textile and Non Wovens
NEWS 38- ASSOCIATION NEWS: SRTEPC 39- ASSOCIATION NEWS: ITAMMA 40- ITEMA Group, First Quarter 2018 Results
20-Fibre and yarn by Textile Beacon
export
continue
to
double
21- Global textile pricing trend in May 2018 by Textile Beacon 22- SURAT Report
INTERVIEW 43- Mr. Dharmendra Shah, Ozone PB Spintex Ltd.
41- SHOW CALENDAR
Advertiser Index
23- Indian Cotton Fibre Scenario by Mr. Rajendra Suthar
TEXTILE CHEMICAL FOCUS
Back Page: Raymond
25- Chemical Risk management in Textile manufacturing by Mr. Prasad Pant
Front Inside: Raysil
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
Page 3: Savio
31- Effect of Fabric Elongation with varying sewing thread tension of different woven fabric on seam puckering by faculty members of SVVV, Indore
Page 4: Sanjay Plastic
SUSTAINABLE MANGAMENT
Page 7: LRT
35- Chemical management for Sustainability by Mr. Sanjay Harane
Page 8: DTG/VTG/MTG/TTG
POST EVENT REPORT
Page 10: ITMA ASIA 2018
June 2018
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Back Inside: Truetzler Spinning
Page5: SGS Innovation Page 6: YARN EXPO 2018
Page 9: Rieter
Page 19: Tomsic Page 26 : TEXTEST Page 42: Keisokki Page 44: TECHNOTEX Page 45: SKBS Page 46: Tirupati Techniqk + Ozone PB Spintex Page 47: ATE Page 48: GTTES Page 49: DN Associate Page 50: GENTEX 2018
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EDITORIAL EDITORIAL
INDUSTRY 4.0 IS URGENT NEED IN INDIAN TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY‌ “Move out of your comfort zone. You can only grow if you are willing to feel awkward and uncomfortable when you try something new.
’’
- Brian Tracy
I
ndustry 4.0 is forth Industrial revolution, digital transformation of industrial PDUNHW ΖW LV D F\EHU Č‚ SK\VLFDO V\VWHPV ZLWK DQ HQG WR HQG YDOXH FKDLQ ZLWK industrial and decentralized intelligence in manufacturing, production, logistics and industry. Industry 4.0 perceived as only for manufacturing but it needs colODERUDWLRQ ZLWK DFDGHPLFV DVVRFLDWLRQV DQG JRYHUQPHQW 7R XQGHUVWDQG ΖQGXVWU\ LW LV HVVHQWLDO WR VHH WKH IXOO YDOXH FKDLQ ZKLFK LQcludes suppliers and the origins of the materials and components - needed for YDULRXV IRUPV RI PDQXIDFWXULQJ WKH HQG WR HQG GLJLWDO VXSSO\ FKDLQ DQG WKH Č´QDO destination of all manufacturing, regardless of the number of intermediary steps and players: the end customer (in his/her capacity as an entrepreneur, consumHU UHWDLO VWRUH RZQHU ZRUNHU FLWL]HQ DQG VR IRUWK 7H[WLOH DQG JDUPHQW LQGXVWU\ LV IUDJPHQWHG GLYHUVH DQG YHUVDWLOH DFURVV GLÎ?HUHQW VWDWH RI ΖQGLD ΖI LQGXVWU\ LPSOHPHQWHG SURSHUO\ LW ZLOO ZRUN H[FHOOHQW LQ ΖQGLDQ 0DUNHW )URP PDFKLQH WR PRELOH FRQQHFWLYLW\ ZLOO PDNH OLIH HDV\ DQG SURGXFWLYH ΖW ZLOO PDNH RSHQ DQG WUDQVSDUHQW YDOXH HFRV\VWHP &UHDWLRQ RI LGHD FRQFHSWXDOL]DWLRQ SURWRW\SH VDPSOLQJ SURGXFWLRQ DQG PDUNHWLQJ ZLOO EH IDVW DQG LW ZLOO EH V\QFKURQL]HG HÎ?HFWLYHO\ (QDEOLQJ PRUH GLUHFW PRGHOV RI SHUVRQDOL]HG SURGXFWLRQ VHUYLFLQJ DV ZHOO DV customer/consumer interaction (including gaining real-time data from actual SURGXFW XVDJH DQG FXWWLQJ WKH LQHÉ?FLHQFLHV LUUHOHYDQFH DQG FRVWV RI LQWHUPHGLDULHV LQ D GLJLWDO VXSSO\ FKDLQ PRGHO ZKHUH SRVVLEOH DUH VRPH JRDOV RI ΖQGXVWU\ LQ WKLV FXVWRPHU FHQWULF VHQVH RI LQFUHDVLQJO\ GHPDQGLQJ FXVWRPHUV ZKR YDOXH VSHHG FRVW HÉ?FLHQFLHV DQG YDOXH DGGHG LQQRYDWLYH VHUYLFHV ΖQ WKH HQG LW UHPDLQV EXVLQHVV Č‚ ZLWK WKH LQQRYDWLYH WZLVW RI LQQRYDWLRQ DQG WUDQVIRUPDWLRQ RI EXVLQHVV PRGHOV DQG SURFHVVHV LQFUHDVH SURČ´W GHFUHDVH FRVWV HQKDQFH FXVWRPHU H[SHULHQFH RSWLPL]H FXVWRPHU OLIHWLPH YDOXH DQG ZKHUH SRVVLEOH FXVWRPHU OR\DOW\ VHOO PRUH DQG LQQRYDWH LQ RUGHU WR JURZ DQG UHPDLQ UHOHYDQW Industry 4.0 is the need of the highly fragmented industry, on time deliveries for H[SRUWHUV KDSS\ FRQVXPHU ZLOO ERRVW WKH LQGXVWU\ LQ QH[W OHYHO :H LQGXVWU\ FRQWULEXWRUV DUH SDUW RI LQGXVWU\ UHYROXWLRQ WRJHWKHU ZH FDQ PDNH WKLV KDSSHQ WKRXJK LW ZLOO QRW EH LPPHGLDWH EXW VXUHO\ QHHG RI DQ KRXU WR VXUYLYH LQ WKH FRPSHWLWLRQ ZLWK JOREDO PDUNHWV :LVK ZH VWDUW ΖQGXVWU\ IURP RXU PLQG WR PDUNHWČ?
Ms. Jigna Shah
Editor and Publisher
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June 2018
HOME TEXTILE FOCUS
SPUNLACE TECHNOLOGY FOR HOME TEXTILES
Avinash Mayekar
Home textiles have shown significant involvement in various end uses. If we see our home hotels & showrooms, home textiles have played very important role. It has given liveliness to these places. An additional x-factor is added to the rooms due to the varied colour & designs of home textiles that help to decorate the rooms. The Indian textile industry has fortunately shown flying colours in this segment. It is mainly because of innovative products that are self-designed produced by Indian companies. Let it be bed sheets, curtains or decorative textile materials Innovation & uniqueness is the key driving factor in home textile segment. As a lot of products are already produced in this segment, I would like to concentrate on Innovations which are going to happen in future in this particular segment.
MD and CEO Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.
If we take the case of textile curtains, these curtains perform the basic function to block the sun heat & rays from entering the room in addition to the aesthetic appearance of the room. With new developments in nonwoven industry especially by using spunlace nonwovens we can produce these curtains by using much cheaper raw material as curtains do not need much strength. The curtains are usually hung from one end and stay in one position so they should have the self-weighing properties hence we can reduce the weight of the curtains by using spunlace technologies. The spunlace curtains would take care of the aesthetic look of the fabric having the inherent capability of creating various structures & shapes that can be embossed on the fabric. Thereby the manufacturing cost of the curtains can be minimized drastically by using spunlace technology. So the curtains which were once being used for months or years can now be replaced after specific days or as per occasions or events due to the price benefits and even additional set of curtains can be kept to replace them alternatively . The raw material required for producing curtains using spunlace technology can also be the by-products of textile industry like spinning waste and the short staples. The major requirement is that the fibre length must be upto 15mm. So the cost incurred on raw material using spunlace technology is much low as compared to woven curtains. Similarly the entire spinning weaving & then fabric processing i.e. bleaching & dyeing technologies will be completely eliminated as the fibres will be directly converted to fabric by using the spunlace technologies. This
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technology is now getting popular worldwide & replacing most of the applications in which strength is not the major criteria but we need a fabric or felt which can be used as enhancing factor for that particular application. In home textiles the second major product is towels. Towels are of various types and they are produced by using various types of raw material e.g. if we are catering to American markets open end towels are much famous. Whereas in case of European market towels having pile loops with high quality combed yarn are preferred which makes towels softer& good looking as various design/ patterns can be incorporated on them. With the recent trend of optimization of raw material and using very low cost of production, I think we need to start using disposable towels which can be produced by using nonwoven technology. With this method we can use 100% cotton or the by products of cotton like comber noil or flat strip. Such towels will not be very strong but will be having the essential property of absorption. Due to this It can easily absorb water or moisture & wipe or clean the body parts. These towels may use cotton or any natural raw material so it is skin friendly & will not cause any allergies to skin. There is no need to color them thereby eliminating the use of dyes & chemicals as they will be for use & throw purpose. However the aesthetic look can be taken care by the self-embossed technique used in nonwovens technology. Many developments for using this technology to produce towels are already being done. This will not only reduce the manufacturing cost but will also reduce the carbon foot prints & hence will be more environmental friendly. The other innovation is using bamboo fibre as raw material for producing towel. Still there is not much research done in this area but I am confident bamboo fibre can be used in place of cotton and have good functional properties and it can be transformed into bamboo towels which are in a great demand.
13
HOME TEXTILE FOCUS highly demanded by travellers. Today monthly trip or weekend outing is the phenomenon widely practiced by Youths & even mid-forty population. This constant travelling has urged the use of disposable textiles like towels which are cost effective.
In other products like bed linens, table covers, table napkins or wall covering a lot many innovations have taken place. We can also use disposable textiles for these products. Various types of patterns and structures can be the design elements for the self-developed fabric. Conclusion: The ease of use & cost effectiveness is the major reason for growth of disposable textiles in home textile. To avoid any infections, allergies & contamination most of the hospitals also promote use of disposable pillow covers, curtains & bed sheets. Five & Seven star hotels have also started adopting disposable textile in the form of napkins, towels to provide hygiene & quality products. The hotel brand labeled personalized goodies likes wipes, napkins entrust the customers with high standard products. Disposable textiles having main feature of “use & throw” is
From the Restaurant, cafes, hotel chefs, panipuri stall vendors in mall’s & sophisticated outlets all are using hats, gloves & aprons to maintain hygiene standards although at maximum places the conventional cotton aprons or hats are still noticed along with disposable plastic caps & gloves at local outlets, time is not behind when these will be replaced by nonwoven disposable textile due to stringent ban on plastic & for maintaining highest level of hygiene. These kitchen disposable textiles are even used by individual for day to day task like flour kneading, batter preparation etc. to keep their hands safe & neat. The use of spunlace technology in hometextiles will give a different dimension to this segment. We can reduce dyes & chemicals totally as most of the products are usually preferred in plain white shade. Disposable textiles using no dyes & chemicals can be used especially in Hospitals, hotels & offices thus contributing a small share for saving the environment.
GLOBAL FOCUS
CHINA CHANGING ?
W
hen, on October 25, 2017, seven men in black suits filed on stage in Beijing’s Great Hall of the People to announce themselves as members of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP)’s Politburo Standing Committee, only one face came as a surprise. It was that of Wang Huning, a longtime party ideologist and former professor of international politics at Fudan University in Shanghai. Few had predicted Wang’s rise to the highest ranks of the CCP, but now this once-reclusive academic, known for his quietness and caution, will have ideological authority second only to that of President Xi Jinping himself.
Wang’s inclusion in the standing M/s. Business Advisors Group, Mumbai committee was a striking departure from the practice of recent decades. Standing committee members have traditionally been chosen from among prominent Politburo members with experience of serving as the party secretary of multiple provinces or province-level cities. Wang, however, came from the party’s Central Policy Research Office, of which he was the long-time director, overseeing development of the CCP’s ideological platform. The only previous occasion on which a theorist like Wang rose to the standing committee was at the beginning of the Cultural Revolution in 1966, when Mao Zedong brought in his former secretary Chen Boda.
that of the 1960s, of course. But in one sense it may be meaningfully similar: Changes in the national situation and the norms of elite politics seem to have once again brought the CCP to a historical inflection point. Riding a crescendo of increasing authority that has seen him named the party’s core leader, Xi recently launched his second term as president by announcing his theory of a New Era of socialism with Chinese characteristics, associated with the need to ensure social stability and high-quality economic growth while comprehensively increasing China’s national power. At the same time, Xi has repeatedly emphasized the Soviet-Style existential danger in which the party could find itself, if it does not effectively promote feelings of faith and trust among ordinary Chinese.
The current situation in China is radically different from
Many of Xi’s policies—from the China Dream that is sup-
Mr. Arvind Sinha - CEO
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GLOBAL FOCUS posed to unite the aspirations of the common citizen with those of the state as a whole, to the radical anticorruption crackdown and the Four Self-Confidences that every party cadre must exhibit—have been aimed at reinvigorating and justifying the CCP’s authority. As the party pushes to consolidate its authority, what might the rise of Wang Huning say about China’s path forward in Xi’s New Era?
THE SEARCH FOR ORDER In the years following Mao’s death in 1976, as the Cultural Revolution gradually gave way to the era of reform, countless Chinese citizens began to pursue the dreams that had been deferred during a decade of political struggle. Wang spent those years reading centuries-old political texts about the evil of human nature, the origins of the state, and the need for an all-powerful ruler to manage social conflicts. Entering Fudan University in 1978 after taking an undergraduate degree in French, Wang went on to earn a master’s degree in international politics in 1981, writing his thesis on the concept of sovereignty in Western thought. The paper traced the idea of the modern sovereign state, from its earliest full articulation in the work of the sixteenth-century French political theorist Jean Bodin, who delineated a conception of sovereignty as the absolute and perpetual power of a commonwealth, through to its later elaborations, and then disavowal, in the twentieth century. Wang would repeatedly return to the theme of sovereignty in his books and articles over the next decade and a half, as he rose through the professorial ranks to become, in 1989, director of the international politics program in which he had studied. Wang’s basic account of sovereignty agrees in important respects with those of its key Western theorists. Sovereignty, for Wang, entails the ability of a political authority to exercise unified administrative control over a territory without external threats or internal subversion. Bodin was the first to set forth a theory of politics in which the state alone held this authority, to the exclusion of any other political, religious, or legal power. Key to this conception was the premise that sovereignty is indivisible; although any policy or norm can be the subject of dispute, it is the sovereign’s role to put an end to such disputes. As Bodin wrote in his Six Books of the Commonwealth, “Just as God, the great sovereign, cannot make a God equal to Himself because He is infinite and by logical necessity two infinities cannot exist, so we can say that the prince, whom we have taken as the image of God, cannot make a subject equal to himself without annihilation of his power.” For Wang, the historical development of such ideas was especially important because it showed that in early modern Europe, as in twentieth-century China, the modern state had to fight to emerge amid the chaos of conflicting feudal forces and territorial and social divisions. The great European theorists of sovereignty, including Bodin,
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Thomas Hobbes, and Machiavelli (whom Wang saw as struggling to unify an Italy divided, as China later would be, into a loose sheet of sand), had been ahead of their times in seeing the need for a form of political organization that could produce unity and order out of weakness and confusion. In modern China just as in Renaissance Italy, mankind’s innate tendencies toward war and revolution meant that only shared obedience to a supreme authority could form the basis of national strength and independence. Of course, such ideas would have had a special meaning in the China of the late 1970s, after the disastrous experiments of the Cultural Revolution had weakened the state and called into question the Ideological Justifications for its power. But for Wang, early Western theorists of sovereignty had an eternal value because they had used a realist (or materialist) perspective to cut through the ideological fantasies of their eras and grasp what their societies really needed: strong, unifying rulers who were loyal to the people and unbeholden to any feudal, foreign, or religious influence. These strong rulers would in turn form the foundations of the stable and autonomous states that would go on to bring the West to the apex of global dominance. CHINA AND ITS ENEMIES The West’s ascent to global supremacy, however, would itself give rise to further changes. In particular, Wang was struck by one curious phenomenon. Why, as the capitalist countries had come to dominate the rest of the world, did they gradually turn away from the sovereign Westphalian state and toward more universalist visions of global governance, human rights, and the like? Wang explored this topic in his thesis, as well as in his 1985 essay, On New Developments in the Modern Theory of Sovereignty, and his 1987 book State Sovereignty, and other publications in the early 1990s. Wang argued that it was no accident that Western countries had developed a distaste for state sovereignty and an interest in universalist ideas at the exact moment that they sought to consolidate control over vast colonial empires. Following World War I, with no more land to grab but a vast set of existing acquisitions to preserve, the colonial powers developed new international institutions such as the League of Nations, and new ways to justify their exercise of colonial or semi-colonial control over vast swathes of the world, including parts of China. At the same time, the ideal of national self-determination, which had been the last great advance in the traditional theory of sovereignty, was sidelined in order to preserve the international status quo. After World War II and throughout the Cold War, leading Western states continued to try to limit or control the process of decolonization, and often worked to suppress those who, in Wang’s view, truly represented the political will of Third World peoples. The United States’ continuing efforts to constrain the CCP
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GLOBAL FOCUS could be seen, from this perspective, as part of a long tradition of Western attempts to maintain sovereignty over the non-Western world, while denying non-Western people any right to resist this domination. Thus when the American political scientist Samuel Huntington developed his clash of civilizations thesis in the early 1990s, which held that conflicts between large civilizational groupings, such as the Confucian, Islamic, and Western worlds, would define twenty-first century geopolitics, Wang was ready to put an influential, party-friendly spin on the idea. According to him, the supposedly universal values of Western civilization were forms of “cultural expansionism” being deployed to infiltrate Chinese society. They could be countered only by a CCP capable of firmly asserting its own cultural sovereignty, a term that Wang adopted to refer to China’s ability to maintain its ideological autonomy and political unity against criticism from the outside world. Tragedies such as the violence that followed the 1989 protests in Tiananmen Square were, in Wang’s view, the natural outcome of allowing one’s citizens to be deluded by foreign influences that eroded the state’s authority and ultimately threatened to turn China back into a loose sheet of sand. Thus both China’s external sovereignty, or freedom from direct Western control, and its internal sovereignty—the ability of the state to organize society and prevent conflict between interest groups and classes—depended on the party’s ability to define and apply political and even moral values on its own terms, and to be obeyed. Wang’s arguments are essentially negative, framed around deterring potential evils rather than striving towards any positive vision. And although the CCP itself has increasingly sought to appropriate the rhetoric of traditional Chinese philosophy, very little in Wang’s work indicates any specifically ethnonationalist conception of the state. What matters in his thought is not some Chinese essence but rather the ability of the state, and of the people whose interests it embodies, to neutralize any force that would divide and weaken them. Similarly, although Wang’s pre-Tiananmen writings did occasionally nod toward the need for moderate reforms, these were always placed in the service of and very much subordinated to the larger goal of preserving the state’s authority. Finally, even Wang’s applications of Marxism were invariably focused on justifying stable party power rather than gesturing toward the utopian society such power was nominally intended to bring about. No abstract concept, whether freedom, justice, equality, social harmony, Confucian benevolence, or even the dialectic of history, matters as much to Wang as the bare facts of authority, obedience, and order.
Wang’s preoccupation with sovereignty—and his suspicion of Western cultural encroachment—appeared consistently in writings throughout the 1980s and 1990s. In 1995, General Secretary Jiang Zemin and his associates Zeng Qinghong and Wu Bangguo invited Wang to join the CCP’s Central Policy Research Office to work on ideological issues. There, Wang helped draft Jiang’s ideological contribution to the party platform, the “Three Represents,” which articulated a new “representative” political function for the CCP that allowed it to justify including members from China’s burgeoning business and professional class. In the years since then, he has had a leading role in developing the signature theories of successive general secretaries, including Hu Jintao’s “Scientific Outlook on Development” and the aforementioned Xi Jinping Thought on Socialism with Chinese Characteristics for a New Era. Xi is the first leader since Mao to have his name appear in the party platform, and in him, Wang seems to have found for the first time a strong “prince”—of the kind Machiavelli sought—who can more fully put into practice his ideas about defending Chinese sovereignty and resisting the West. Wang’s support for Xi will be bolstered by the fact that Wang has likely risen to his current position not because of his personal authority, but rather mostly due to the machinations of elite politics. In particular, as someone who has worked closely with all three of China’s postDeng leaders, he is likely the only Politburo member that Jiang, Hu, and Xi have all found unthreatening or inoffensive. Previous party theorists, or pen shafts (biganzi), who have ascended to positions of authority—including Chen Boda as well as the later reform skeptics, Hu Qiaomu and Deng Liqun—have similarly risen or fallen based on shifts in elite patronage. His awareness of these precedents provides Wang with yet another reason to ensure that his ideological contributions continue to justify unchallenged authority for the party, and for Xi. Indeed, since October, Wang has already publicly called for journalists to unswervingly follow the party and made comments to Chinese and Western tech leaders about the need to defend China’s cyber sovereignty. Current analysis of Wang’s influence is divided between those who see him as a tried and true believer in neo-authoritarianism and others who detect a strain of cautious liberal sentiment in his scattered comments on the value of democracy and the rule of law to modern states. Yet it might be a mistake to seek his ultimate importance in any personal goals, whether avowed or hidden. Even near the apex of power, Wang remains subservient to the interests of the CCP. Barring any unforeseen crisis, his public work will continue to serve the party. And indeed, it is Wang’s own theories that justify his subordination.
A PEN SHAFT FOR THE PARTY
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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE
CLOTHING FROM VILOFT FIBRES
A Dr. N.N.Mahapatra President, COLORANT. LTD
cordis “s brand name for a viscose fibre with a unique flat cross –section with a crenellated surface which offers softness, extra bulk and absorbency. Viloft is a speciality viscose fibre engineered for maximum thermal performance, advanced moisture management and softness. Its unique crenellated surface helps to achieve a technically advanced capillary action. Acordis is the world’s largest independent fibre producer.It was formed in January 1999 by combining the fibres businesses of Akzo Nobel with the fibres operations of Courtaulds plc. The Acordis group has sales of some EUR 1.6 billion, employs approximately 9,000 people and has production facilities in Germany, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, the United States of America, Brazil, Italy and Poland.
Acordis supplies customers throughout the world with man-made fibres and speciality materials for industrial, textile, medical and hygiene applications.
2.4
38/51
Bright/Matt
2.4
Tow or Converted top
Bright
Viloft fibres are of 3 types
Viloft micro is available as below;
1. Viloft orginal.
Decitex
Staple length,mm
Lustre
2. Viloft thermal.
0.9
40
Bright
0.9
Tow
Bright
3. Viloft active. Besides these Kelheim fibres has introduced a completely new fibre concept with revolutionary characteristics known as
4. Viloft nonwoven. 5. Viloft micro. 6. Viloft spirit. Each viloft fibre has been created for a distinct look and feel. From lustrous body skimming high fashion to soft, warm thermals, the versatility of viloft is suited to wide range of clothing applications. In the year 2002 RSWM Ltd introduced new generation specialities yarn using viloft fibre in association with the U.K based Acordis, supplier of man-made fibre /speciality materials for the textile industry around the world in the tirupur market. The application of viloft in garments is commercially established with worlds leading garment labels/brands. Acordis has a marketing arrangement with RSWM Ltd which will produce a diverse count of yarns spun out of viloft fibre and its blends. Manufacturing – Viloft is 100% natural in origin and made from eucalyptus wood pulp harvested from managed plantations. Viloft original is available as below: Decitex
Staple length,mm
Lustre
1.9
38
Bright
June 2018
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Properties Viloft nonwoven – its modified flat cross section delivers a fibre with increased flexibility and softness when compared with fibres of conventional cross section. It also shows an outstanding performance in contact with fluids, it retains its softness and exhibits high level of absorbancy. Test results show that, during disposal, viloft nonwoven enhances the disintegration process of nonwoven materials. These properties make viloft nonwoven the ideal fibre for innovative products with new benefits for the whole nonwoven industry. It is 100% bio-degradable. It is certified for usage in baby hygiene products. Viloft original is engineered to offer particular technical and aesthetic properties which differentiate it from other fibres. This creates fabrics and garments with an extremely soft handle for superb next –to- skin comfort. Viloft original – its flat cross-section offers following : 1.Higher flexibility and softness compared to round fibres. 2.Thermal performance due to the formation of air pockets within a yarn construction When blended,usually with polyester or cotton, the engineered flat cross –section of viloft traps pockets of air to protect and insulate against cold. 3. Moisture management properties and wickability in blends with other fibres. Viloft breathes –moisture is transported away from the skin through the fabric by its technically advanced capillary action. Breathable garments keep the wearer dry.
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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE 4. Ideal for performance base layering systems and under close-fitting outerwear. 5. Garments can be washed at 40 deg c without loosing their shape, style or colour. Properties of Viloft original are as below. Air Dry Tenacity
18-22 cN/Tex
Air Dry Extension
18-25 %
Wet Tenacity
10-15 cN/Tex
Wet Extension
28-33 %
2. Breathability. 3. Wicking ( draws moisture away from skin ) 4. Moisture management.
Viloft spirit brings a tempting soft and light hand to many fashion garments adding comfort and wearability. Easy care of viloft spirit makes style even more practical, adding luxurious warmth and comfort to high fashion. Viloft active is the perfect fibre for active sportswear. It is breathable. it is soft, due to its unique flat cross-section, making it superbly comfortable. Easy care is important in active wear – viloft garments can be machine washed at 40 deg c without losing shape. It is lightweight – ideal for base layering. Wicking rate of viloft active Fibre
1 min
5 min
30 min 60 min
100% Polypropylene
NIL
22
60
79
100% Polyester
50
60
98
140
100% Cotton
60
86
134
140
50% Viloft
58
88
140
140
Viloft thermal is not simply a necessity, not just a fashion but a lifestyle. Thermal is here to stay – for women,men,youths and children. It is leading this thermal trend, it is desirable –recognised and valued by consumers around the world. Thermal resistance value at 2 mm fabric thickness 0.53
100 % cotton
0.40
100 % hollow
0.51
100 % polypropylene
0.43
The blend of 50% polyester, 50% viscose has many excellent qualities. 1. Soft and comfortable.
Viloft micro is a fine decitex fibre with a round cross-section that produces lightweight, ultrafine and soft jersey and woven fabrics.
Viloft /polyester 50/50
achievable. It can be used 100 % or in blend with most other natural or synthetic fibres. It performs well on all common spinning technologies such as ring,open end or air jet spinning.
5. Thermal properties. 6. Easy care ( machine washable at 40 deg c ) 7. Light weight. Viloft fibre can be blended with hollow polyester fibre taking into consideration the structure and properties of Viloft fibre which influence the qualities of yarns. According to the different characters of the two fibres, the technological parameters are optimized. For the peculiarities of Viloft fibre, emphasis on the blending way of Viloft and polyester, selection of the carding clothing, the lapping in drawing process and yarn evenness. Dyeing and finishing of fabrics containing Viloft original – Blends of viloft original and polyester is dyed by various routes such as first polyester is dyed using disperse dyes at 130 deg c and then Viloft portion is dyed using vat dyes, sulphur dyes or reactive dyes by exhaust or pad –batch process. The knitted blended fabric is dyed in soft flow dyeing machine. Most fabrics require a chemical antipill treatment for good pilling performance and these is given during scouring process or as a part of the reduction clearing treatment employed after dyeing with disperse dyes. A good standard of white is obtained by bleaching with hydrogen peroxide at 95 deg c. While dyeing Viloft original/cotton blended in one bath care should be taken that reactive dyes produce a heavier depth of shade on Viloft original compared to cotton. The dyeing and finishing conditions for circular knitted fabrics containing Lycra with Viloft original need to be carefully controlled to preserve the inherent elastic properties of the yarn. The temperature, tension and duration of treatments must be kept to a minimum because the elastic properties are affected by heat and temperature.
Blending – Viloft orginal can be spun upto 60 nm . It can be blended with polyester 50/50 ratio. It can be blended with cotton 50/50 ratio. It can be blended with Amicor 85/15 ratio.
Resin finishing is done on Viloft blended fabrics by pad, pin stenter dry and flash cure 30 secs at 180 deg c.
Similarly Viloft micro can be spun upto 120 nm on cotton ring spinning system although even finer counts are
Viloft original in blends with other natural or synthetic fibres is used for functional textiles, e.g thermal sleep-
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Uses
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SUSTAINABLE FIBRE wear and underwear, sportswear, socks, shirts, outdoor clothing etc. Viloft is marketed to consumers as well as manufacturers and the retail trade and it has become a household name for premium quality fibres.
5. Urban Street wear. 6. Children’s wear. 7. Youth wear.
Viloft spirit is used in the following areas.
Viloft thermal is a natural presentation for the following;
1. Underwear to be seen. 2. Fashion sportswear. 3. Leisure wear. 4. Lingerie. 5. T shirts. 6. Jeans. 7. Urban Street wear.
1. Top towel,home furnishings textile. 2. Classic thermal underwear. 3. Sleep wear. 4. Home wear. 5. Leisure wear. 6. Children’s wear. 7. Hosiery.
Viloft active is perfect for the following
Acknowledgement - The author is thankful to Mr Subhash Bhargava, FSDC (UK), Managing Director, Colorant Ltd, Ahmedabad for giving permission to publish this article.
1. Active sportswear.| 2. Active thermalwear. 3. Sports performance base layers. 4. T shirts.
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EVENNESS TESTER
for Spun Yarn, Roving, Sliver
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19
YARN REPORT
FIBRE AND YARN EXPORT CONTINUE TO DOUBLE In April shipment of, fibre, spun and filament yarn shipment continued doubling, mainly on the low base values. In April, textiles exports were rumbled down by the demonetisation of high currency notes which hampered the conventionally unorganized economy. Further, exports were also impeded by the newly launched GST regime in July. However, being the first month of the new financial year, it has been a good start.
kg worth US$392 million implying an average unit value realization of US$3.14 per kg, slightly lower by a cent compared to last year. The surge in exports was largely due to lowest level touched during the month after the demonetization policy. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ was similar at INR64.5 this April. China was the largest buyer of spun yarns, and continued to remain on the top both in terms of volume and value.
Cotton export surges from low base in March
Cotton yarn export was at 104 million kg worth US$330 million (INR2,136 crore), twice from previous April 2017. 75 countries imported cotton yarn at an average price of US$3.20 a kg, US cent 1 more than previous month and down US cents 8 from last year.
Cotton exports surged 110% in April with shipment of 10.1 lakh bales (170 kg each) as against 4.8 lakh bales exported in April 2017. The increase is largely due to a low base when cotton marketing activity was hampered by the demonetization of currency note in November 2017. Bangladesh was the largest import-ed of India cotton in April, followed by Pakistan and Vietnam. Thus, the first seven months of 2017-18 cotton marketing year, shipment aggregated 6.68 million bales as against 5.3 million bales in the corresponding months of previous marketing year. The price realization averaged INR117 a kg or US cents 82.29 per pound in April as against the Cotlook Index ‘A’ at 92.60 per pound and spot Shankar-6 at US cents 79.90 per pound. China increases cotton yarn imports from India
In April, shipment volume of spun yarns was 125 million
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China sharply increased its import of cotton yarn from India by almost four time in volume and value terms and was top importer during the month. It was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value both rising 45% over the year. Portugal and Vietnam were the other major importers, also doubling their imports from India. Peru was the fifth largest destination. About 13 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India as they did last April, but were replaced by 13 other countries which imported yarn worth US$1.80 million. Bulgaria, Indonesia, Hong Kong and USA were among the fastest importers of cotton yarn in April while Austria, Brazil and United Arab Emirates significantly reduced their import compared to last year. 100% man-made fibre yarns exports also surged due to similar reasons both in volume and value in April. MMF yarn exports comprised 4 million kg of polyester yarn, 1.6 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.3 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports rose 40% in value while viscose yarn exports value increased 5% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were up 19%. Polyester spun yarns were exported to 42 countries at average unit price of US$2.49 a kg. Turkey was the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Egypt and USA.
Viscose yarn worth US$5.7 million or INR37 crore was ex-
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YARN REPORT ported at an average price of US$3.47 per kg. Bangladesh was the top importer worth US$1.18 million, followed by Turkey and Belgium. Blended spun yarns worth US$43 million were exported in April, up 89% YoY in value terms. During the month, 8.2 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$22 million while 4 million kg of PV yarns were ex-ported worth US$12 million. Turkey, Bangladesh and Egypt, were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the sin-gle largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by South Africa. Woven fabric shipment (exports) continued to remain buoyant in April, mainly on low base effect. In April 2017, exports had fallen more than 16% year on year due to demonetisation of high currency notes which hampered small and medium scale units then. Exports were also adversely impacted by the imposition of GST regime in July.
Fabric shipment rose 17% to 379 million sq mtrs (YoY) worth US$297 million or INR1,920 crore in April. The financial year 2017-18 saw export of 4,360 million sq mtr, up 2% compared with previous year. In terms of value, woven fabric export was worth US$3,435 million or INR21,825 crore in that year. During April, 134 countries imported woven fabrics from India, topped by Bangladesh and followed by UAE and Sri Lanka. The three together accounted for 30% of total woven fabric shipped during the month. During the month only 12 countries did not import any fabric as last year. However, they were replaced by 9 other countries which imported fabric worth US$0.42 million this April. Cote D’Ivoire, Croatia, Ethiopia, Nepal and Philippines were the fastest growing markets for woven fabrics, and accounted for close to 2% of total export value in April. Source: Textile Beacon Global Info Services
GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND IN MAY Cotton Cotton prices in India continued to surge in line with global trend and were further supported by the expected drop in sowing area this year. Overall, 65.52 lakh hectares (Lha) was sown under various crops until May-end, which was around 6% less than the corresponding period last year. Even Nitin Madkaikar though these are early days Textile Beacon of sowing and better monsoon may dramatically change the situation. The drop in acreage under cotton is substantial. The planted area has
an average of INR42,420 per candy, up INR1,245 from April. US cotton futures (July) rallied 3.7% during May, after climbing sharply by 4.6% in the last week. The rise in cotton futures was helped by buying from speculators amid concerns of hotter weather conditions in Texas, the major producing region of cotton in the US. The most active contract for December expiry settled up US cents 5.56 or 7% on the month after being traded within a range of US cents 91.21-93.00 per pound. Meanwhile, the International Cotton Advisory Committee lowered its global cotton inventory forecasts for the 201819 crop year. In China, along with weather issues in the Xinjiang region, which accounts for 75% of China’s cotton area and potential drought conditions in West Texas affecting 25% of the US crop, there were concern of quality supply gaps which may affect next season’s supply, the ICAC said in its monthly report. The three states in the Southwest cotton region – Texas, Oklahoma and Kansas – are projected to plant cotton on 8.1 million acres, up from 7.6 million last year and the highest since an identical area was seeded in 1981. That would be 61% of the US upland acres. The China Cotton Index surged more than 400 Yuan to average 15,896 a ton (US cents 113 a pound). Global spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index also surged US cent 2.45 on the month to US cents 95.05 per pound.
is down 30% at 7.82 Lha under cotton. A substantial reduction is reported in Haryana and Punjab, where early sowing of cotton is normally taken up. Meanwhile, spot cotton prices jumped INR300-2,100 per candy across specs during May. Benchmark Shankar-6 was traded at
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Cotton Yarn Cotton yarn markets were mixed in China, with prices moving in either directions or steady in line with cotton prices. Some producers raised offers in the last week of
21
YARN REPORT May and deals were mainly done at that level without any
room for negotiation. Downstream mainly purchased cotton yarn with caution and need based volume. In Shengze, 32s cotton yarn prices rose to 23.60 Yuan a kg (US$3.70 a kg, up US cents 2) while 40s were lifted to 24.58 Yuan a kg (US$3.86 a kg, up US cents 2). In India, cotton yarn prices were up in line with strongly growing cotton prices. 30s combed cotton yarn for knitting prices averaged INR197 a kg, up INR2 in Ludhiana. Polyester chain pricing May saw polyester raw material markets going sluggish and moderating as crude markets weakened at the end of the month. The strengthening of US$ also pegged quotes in greenback down. PSF makers in China kept their offers stable to slightly up as PTA market firmed up but downstream polyester market was on a weak note. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, Offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF rolled over at US$1.40 a kg, while
the same in Fujian and Shandong averaged US$1.37-1.43 a kg, slightly down US cent 1 due to weak Yuan. In India, no revision was heard in PSF offers while market prices rolled over with support firm cost. 1.2D at INR94.75 a kg or US$1.39 a kg and 1.4-2D at INR96 a kg (US$1.41 a kg), both down US cents 4 due to weak INR. Spun polyester yarn prices were seen lifted in China due to rise in cost early in the month while downstream demand remained normal. In Shengze, offers were raised across popular spec but finer count above 50s remained unchanged. Transaction for some specs was moderate during the month. 32s polyester yarn offers were lifted to average 14.05 Yuan a kg (US$2.20 a kg, up US cents 2). In India, polyester yarn prices remained stable on the back of range-bound PTA and lower MEG. 30s polyester knit yarn prices remained unchanged at INR132 a kg (US$$1.96 a kg, down US cents 5 due to weak INR) in Ludhiana market. Upstream, PTA prices in Asia rose 6% on the back of tight supply amid unplanned outages at regional plants, although demand was weak in key China market. PTA markers averaged US$820 a ton CFR China while offer from Taiwan/Korea were at US$835 a ton. MEG prices continued to trend down as inventory in the key China market remained high. This implied overseas cargoes flow in domestic market which exerted further pressure on prices. Prices were down by 7% on the month which ended with discussions capped around US$900 per ton, after a bout of panic-selling. The CFR China marker fell to average of US$940 a ton and CFR South East Asia to US$935 a ton. COURTESY: TEXTILEBEACON.COM - +91-9819915227
SURAT REPORT IGST refunds will be cleared soon : Textile minister Smriti Irani
which Rs 34 crore have been released while Rs 57 crore have been approved.
On a days visit to Surat Union minister for textiles Smriti Irani claimed that the central govt. has addressed almost all the issues of GST and refunds of I-GST will be cleared very soon. Visiting Surat as part of the ongoing campaign of the Narendra Modi-led NDA government to celebrate four years the BJP rule, Irani said that the textile businessmen facing issues with refund under Integrated Goods and Services Tax (IGST) would be solved on a priority. The government has launched special refund campaign from May 31 to June 14 wherein the claims under IGST on or before April 30, 2018 will be cleared.
The central government has accepted some of the demands put forth by the textile sector, including the increase of 20 per cent duty, on the import of silk and 5 per cent GST on job work etc. She said that capital subsidy in technical textiles had also been increased with an intention to upgrade machinery and quality production.
Irani claimed that the previous textile commissionerate had no statistical data of the industry and a survey to gather the figures to help implement the schemes. In last three years of UPA government, 40 schemes were launched, out of which 20 were suspended without spending a single penny. Under PM Narendra Modis leadership, 110 projects have been sanctioned in Surat, in
22
When asked about the duty on impored fabrics, she said, If the textile traders and power loom weavers are concerned about the dumping of imported fabric from China, they should gather official details and file a complaint with directorate general of foreign trade (DGFT) for action.Irani, however, refused to meet the representatives of textile weaving industry. Industry demands survey on impact of GST on textile sector The country’s man made fabric (MMF) hub Surat’s textile
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SURAT REPORT weaving sector is badly affected after the implemention of new tax regime. Approx. Rs.400 crore ITC refund is not released by the govt. since year and this has hampered investment in new machines. The power loom weaving industry in the city has urged the Union government to conduct a detailed survey on the impact of Goods and Services Tax (GST). In a letter to the goverment, the power loom industry leaders stated that the condition of weavers has deteriorated post GST. Since November 2017, at least 1 lakh power loom machines have been sold in scrap and weavers have been forced to reduce production of fabric by operating in the single shift of eight hours. Thousands of workers have lost their jobs in weaving and over 4 lakh have been rendered jobless in the entire textile value chain in the city. Sources Said, average ITC refund amount per loom per year comes to around Rs 7,000. The city has six lakh power loom machines and the total annual ITC refund amount is pegged at Rs 420 crore. Due to non refund of ITC, capital investment in new machines has been hampered. The cost of raw material or decentralized unit is almost six per cent more compared to the integrated units. FOSTTA office-bearers stated that the production of manmade fabric has reduced from four crore meters per day to less than two crore meters, the sale of polyester fabric including saries and dress material has decreased by almost 40% and that the export of finished fabrics has reduced by almost 28% in the last 10 months post-GST implementation. The benefits of duty drawback scheme
COTTON REPORT
to the exporters has been stopped completely. FOSTTA has urged to form a special task force to study the impact of GST on the textile sector. They have appealed the government to remove the traders and weavers from the ambit of the GST, while the GST should be charged at the yarn stage only. Centre’s duty drawback committee to visit Surat next week The exporters of textile fabrics may get some relief in coming days. The central goverment is thinking on increases in current rates of duty drawback of textile exports. Four members team of duty drawback committee will visit Surat textile industry to prepare a report next week. Post GST, the government has decreased the rate of duty drawback from seven to two percent. The exporters are claiming that they are making loss as they are not getting refund of various tax of center and state government. This has resulted in overall cost of fabrics. A month earlier, Synthetic and Rayon Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) has made a representation, to reconsider duty drawback scheme. At present, the remission of state levies (ROSL) under the duty drawback scheme was allowed for garment and made-up sectors. After the representation, the minister has given approval for inclusion of yarns and fabrics in the ROSL scheme. This will provide substantial relief to the man-made fibre segment. The exporters will get rebate of 2 to 4 percent on electicity, water and other corporation taxes. The govt. is positive on upward revision in duty drawback rates along with ROSL.
INDIAN COTTON FIBRE SCENARIO
C
ultivation of hybrids, BT Cotton Varities,latest production technology and plant protection technologies, adoption of Scientific and argonomic practices by farmers, increase in area under irrigation government policieson R &D and price support are all responsible for present drastic changes of Indian cotton scenario to its present positions.
Rajendra Suthar
World Cotton Scenario
Cotton is an important natural fiber of the 21St Century .Major Growth of Cotton Production was observed since the end of Second World War Cotton was grown in 90 countries during the year 2007. Four major cotton producing countries accounted for approximately three quarters of world’s cotton production.
C.O.O.
Shyamaarnav Spinfab Pvt. Ltd.
India has the largest area under cotton production. China is the largest producer of cotton in the world where as India is second in largest. Interestingly, China with almost
June 2018
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half the area under cotton production compares to India, but produces more than 2 ½ times Yield (kg per hectares) as compare to India. Indian Cotton Fibre role in Indian economy Cotton is the one of the principle crops of India and plays vital role in the country’s economic growth by providing substantial employment and making significant contribution to export earnings .The Cotton Cultivation Sector not only engages around 7 million farmers but also involved another 60 to 70 million people relations to cotton cultivation, cotton trade and processing.
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COTTON REPORT India produces a large number of cotton verities and hybrids. Although there are more than 75 number of varieties in cotton cultivation but 98% of the production is contributed by about 25 verities. India is Second Largest Cotton Producer and Consumer. The Government of India fixes the minimum support price for cotton and in this price several government agencies like Cotton Corporation of India and Maharashtra State co-generative cotton garment and marketing federation procure cotton.
of qualities seeds and pesticides and price support are all responsible for the present drastic changes in India cotton scenario but India still has to go long way to catch up with the world average yield 2800 kg per hectare. Region wise cotton variety and length of fiber State
Cotton Variety
Length Of Fiber MM (HVI)
Haryana
J-34
25-26
Punjab
J-34
24-25
Indian Cotton Production Zones
Rajasthan
J-34
24-25
The planting period of cotton normally is from March to September, while the harvesting period is from October to February there are mainly 3 cotton producing zones in India such as.
Maharashtra
MECH-1
29-31
M.P.
MECH-1
29-30
M.P.
DCH-32
34-35
Gujarat
V-797
22-23
1) Northern Zones: Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan. 2) Central Zone-Maharashtra ,Madhya Pradesh ,Gujarat,
Gujarat
SHARKER-6
28.5-29
Telangana
MECH-1
29-30
3) Southern Zone- Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Tamilnadu.
Telangana
BUNNY/BRAHMA 29-30
Telangana
MCU-5
29-31
About 70% of total cotton produced in Gujarat, Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh .The northern region produces short and medium Staples, the Central region produces long and medium staples the southern region normally produces long staples cotton .The pick marketing seasons for the crop is during November to March.
Telangana
MECH-1
29-30
Telangana
BUNNY
30-31
Telangana
DCH-32
33-35
Cotton Production in India The highest cotton producing states in India is Gujarat, Producing 35 % or total cotton Production of India followed by Maharashtra. It is clear that cotton production over the last 20 Years has increased more than 100% from 156 bales 1999-2000 to 360 lakh bales (2016-2017). Cotton Consumptions in India The Textile industries in India are one of the largest industries in the county. During the last two decades there is a phenomenal growth in this sector in terms of installed spindles and yarn production, and installation of open end rotors. The Growth and expansion of the spinning industry has led to a substantial growth in cotton consumption as well. Mill cotton consumption increased by 75% upto 20142015 and around additional 20% in 2016-2017, because of approximate 12 lakh new spindles installed in Gujarat itself. This addition of spindles in Gujarat is because of Gujarat State government policy for spinning industry. The Indian cotton cultivation sector has not only been increasing its productivity but also been undergoing a drastic improvements in terms quality cotton. Government policies such as giving greater force to R & D in cotton, encouraging use
24
Cotton Prices Present Scenario Slackening at the end of season cotton prices have firmed up. Price are likely to remain on the higher side with international market sources cotton prices are around 44000 per candy for shanker-6 and equivalent cotton. With more demand from spinning mills as well as ginners prices are likely to remain firm. So for 320 lakh bales have arrived in the market and season is likely to continue for another 25 days, Market sentiment is up because of speculation that demand from china is surging due to depleting buffer stock .Export from India are likely to touch 75 Lacks bales instead of the originally estimated 65 lacks bales. Last Year, the country’s export had touched some 58 lacks bales, this year are likely to jump nearly 30% to a four year high. Pakistan, Bangladesh, China and Vietnam are main buyers of Indian Fibers .Interestingly, Bangladesh has emerged as the biggest importer of Indian cotton this Season. The CAI (Cotton Association of India) noted that around 86 % of the crop has already arrived in the market by April-2018.So very little amount of stock are pending with ginners to come in the market. Over and above quality of cotton has deteriorated in remaining available stock of cotton. It affects the final yarn quality parameters. But at present there is a shortage of yarn availability in the market against demand. So yarn prices are also increased by Rs.20 to 25 per kg. Spinning mills are looking this as win win situation even at higher cotton fibre price.
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June 2018
TEXTILE CHEMICAL FOCUS
CHEMICAL RISK MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILE MANUFACTURING THE NEED FOR CHEMICAL MANAGEMENT When we enter a store to buy a garment, the things that immediately grab our attention are its color, style, texture, material, Prasad Pant fit and price. We Director-South Asia, ZDHC Foundation do not bother to check if the garment contains any colors or chemicals or materials that can be harmful to our health or the environment. Nor do we wonder whether the conditions in which the garment has been made have been safe to workers and the environment. The textile manufacturing process uses hundreds of chemicals and colorants from the fiber manufacture/cultivation stage right through spinning, weaving, knitting, processing, garment cut & sew to transportation and retail. Some of these chemicals are fixed on the fabric or Chemical Group
Usage in textile production
Harmful effects
Alkyl phenol Ethoxylates (APEOs)
Wetting, Washing, Emulsi ication
Aquatic toxicity, Endocrine Disruption
Carcinogenic amines
Dyeing of cotton, silk, wool
Can cause bladder cancer
Resin inish, dye- ixing agents, binders in printing
Suspected carcinogen, skin & respiratory sensitizer
Allergenic Disperse dyes Carcinogenic Dyes Formaldehyde Phthalates
Cadmium, Lead, Nickel Chlorophenols
Chlorobenzenes
Dyeing of polyester
Dyeing of cotton, wool
Plastisol prints
Dyes, pigments Preservatives, antimould, dry- cleaning Carriers, Solvents
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)
Spot cleaning, degreasing, printing
Per- luorinated Compounds (PFCs)
Oil and water repellent inishes, Stain release inishes
Causes skin allergies
Can cause cancer
Endocrine disruptor, impact on nervous and immune system, mutagenic Effect on kidney, nephrotoxic
Can cause cancer, skin sensitization Carcinogenic, Ozone depletion Eye damage and Respiratory sensitization
Cause liver cancer, developmental & reproductive toxicity
garment but can leach out on use, while those that are not fixed during the production process, are discharged from the production facility and enter the environment (river bodies/soil) through the effluent and sludge. You may be surprised to know that more than 800 substances
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used in textile and leather production have been identified to be either harmful to human health or to the environment. The table below lists the major chemical groups used in production and their harmful effects: HOW TO MANAGE CHEMICAL RISKS In the light of global developments such as the ZDHC Programme (www.roadmaptozero.com) , legislation such as REACH and requirements by Suppliers to global apparel Brands & Retailers on chemical restrictions, chemical manufacturers must initiate actions to ensure that hazardous chemical substances are eliminated from their commercial formulations. The ZDHC Programme – which is an industry collaboration of 24 Signatory Brands, 47 Value Chain Associates and 15 Associates to implement sustainable chemistry and environmental best practices in the textile and leather supply chain – has published a Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) that has become the industry standard on restrictions in input chemicals used in a textile or leather manufacturing facility. The MRSL lists all substances that are not to be used intentionally in commercial chemical formulations, while allowing for limit values for unintentional contaminations. Chemical manufacturers can register on the ZDHC Chemical Gateway and upload their products and ZDHC approved certifications to communicate conformity of their products with the ZDHC MRSL. The Chemical Gateway is a database of MRSL -conformant chemicals that will be accessed by Suppliers of ZDHC Signatory Brands to make informed decisions when purchasing chemicals for their production processes. Existing certifications have been approved by ZDHC and graded into Levels (from 0- 3) based upon their merits and resultant degrees of confidence of compliance. The ‘entry level 0’ is only a self- declaration from the manufacturer, while Level 1 pertains to certifications that confirm Product-Level conformity through testing or other forms of evaluation. Level 2 and 3 of the ‘pyramid’ point to increased confidence of MRSL conformance by including Product Stewardship, Quality Management Systems and Audits of the manufacturing site.Certifications such as GOTS, EcoPassport, GreenScreen, ToxFMD, NimkarTek Detox Lab Test Report, NFL and Scivera Lens have been approved by ZDHC as meeting the MRSL conformance (Level 1) norms. BLC-Chem MAP is approved for Level 1 and 3, Control Union Certifications at Level 2 and 3, while bluesign is approved for Level 3. Report After uploading their products, a chemical manufacturer
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TEXTILE CHEMICAL FOCUS can download a ‘CHEMCHECK’ Report, which is a ZDHC MRSL Conformity Certificate. It is an assurance to customers that the product has been verified to the ZDHC MRSL Conformance Standard. The CHEMCHECK Report contains the Product Summary, along with a description of the ZDHC MRSL Conformance Level and lists the product certifications and an SDS summary. It also gives details about the manufacturer and its location. The CHEMCHECK Report thus becomes an easy tool for a chemical manufacturer to communicate ZDHC MRSL conformance. In this way, Suppliers purchasing these chemicals are assured of reduction in the use of hazardous substances in their manufacturing process.
Textile dye houses and garment laundries can access the Gateway- Chemical Module and search for MRSL conformant chemical formulations. They can also check if the chemicals in their current inventory are listed on the Gateway as well as the Confidence Level of each chemical. The idea is to motivate these manufacturing facilities to include higher levels of MRSL conformant chemicals in their inventory. In this way, the risks of harmful substances being used in their input chemicals is greatly reduced and will lead to a cleaner production in terms of final product, wastewater and sludge discharge.
Advt.
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June 2018
POST EVENT REPORT
TEXELLENCE 2018 FOCUSES ON STRATEGIES TO BUSINESS EXCELLENCE IN TEXTILE & APPAREL INDUSTRY Texellence 2018 focuses on strategies to Business Excellence in Textile & Apparel Industry
The CII Centre of Excellence for Competitiveness recently organized a Conclave in Mumbai on “Business Excellence in Textile & Apparel Industry – Competitiveness Strategy for Growth in Uncertain Times” which aimed to identify challenges faced by the Indian textile & apparel industry and find solutions through deliberations at a single day event. Union Minister, Smt. Smriti Irani while addressing CII Texellence 2018 said that the textile sector has attracted up to Rs 27,000 crore investments since the announcement of incentive package last year, and is likely to get more investment from international and domestic markets going forward. The government in June last year announced a Rs. 6,000 crore special package for the textile and apparel sector, which included several tax and production incentives.
Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS), the textile and apparel industry is targeting to have 60 – 62 million skilled workers by the year 2022 through training and de-
velopment. “For every 1 crore investment in the garment manufacturing sector, the Government will provide support/ subsidy of 60% per cent” Textile Commissioner, Government of India, Dr. Kavita Gupta said during the inaugural session while addressing the audience. She also reiterated that the textile manufacturers need to take advantage of the various government schemes, subsidies and rebates which are available to boost and promote textile and apparel manufacturing. She also urged the industries
“As per the record of textile commissioner’s office, an investment of up to Rs. 27,000 crore has come in, and we are hopeful that with the government’s intervention, we will get more investments both from the international and domestic markets,” Irani said while addressing the CII Texellence 2018, an annual textile conclave organized by the apex industry body CII. “We need international collaboration within the industry to learn what the world is doing” speaking at the Conclave, Mr. R D Udeshi, Conference Chair and President – Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd., emphasized on the importance of technology and market access for the Indian textile & apparel industry. Mr. Udeshi also highlighted the need for skill development to generate more employment opportunities and friendly labour laws in the industry with a focus to make India a talent hub in textile & apparel arena. Through the
June 2018
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bodies to create clusters to streamline best practices for which the government is ready to support such initiatives. While discussing various schemes offered by the government, Dr. Gupta pointed out that the need for more Research and Development (R&D) initiatives by the industry players as the government is ready to provide support of up to 70%.
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POST EVENT REPORT From L-R, Mr. Pikender Pal Singh, Sr. Director CII and
that in order to cope up with the changes, it is important to understand customer requirement, have an attitude of collaboration for technological advancement & scale and understanding the roles & responsibilities as manufacturers. During the session on “Government Role in Enhancing Industry’s Competitiveness”, Mr. Atul Patne, Secretary – Mr. Mihir Parekh, Director – Mega Textile Park,Government of Telangana
Head CoE for Competitiveness, Mr. R D Udeshi, President – Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd., Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner, Government of India, Mr. Prashant Agarwal, Co-Founder & Joint Managing Director, Wazir Advisors, releasing the Theme Paper on “Business Excellence in Textile & Apparel Industry – Competitive Strategy for Growth in Uncertain Times” Mr. Manu Kapur, President & CEO – Home Textiles, GHCL Ltd., enabled an in-depth discussions with the industry leaders and discussed various thought provoking topics including the Core Values and Concepts of Business Excellence in Textile & Apparel Industry, role of digital solutions for transformation of the industry, operational excellence, to name a few. Mr. S. K. Khandelia, President, Sutlej Textiles & Industries Ltd., focused on the ability to sustain business by focusing on both the environment and social aspect. It emphasized on the fact that while it is important to comply with the regulations, it is equally important to have goodwill of the community. “Customers today have started to move from mindless consumption to mindful purchase” he said while emphasizing the demand for sustainable and environment friendly products are growing. According to him, waterless dyeing/processing will soon become reality. He further stated the importance of technology given the growing need for traceability in the supply chain. “Giving customers a unique experience while shopping has become essential and important in order to survive in the apparel industry these days” Business Head – Domestic Textiles, Overseas Spinning and Acrylic Fibre, Mr. Thomas Varghese of Aditya Birla Group. He also emphasized on the uses of AI (Artificial Intelligence) and VR (Virtual Reality) for “Virtual Try Rooms” a technology which allows customers to try various outfits and dresses without trying them on physically. Mr. R. K. Rewari, Managing Director, Morarjee Textiles, talked about the importance of customer satisfaction by being customer centric. He talked about the changing scenario due to reduction in fashion cycles and customers’ inclination towards mindful purchase. He talked about real time tracking of purchases being made and change in product-mix accordingly by the retailer. He said
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Mr. Atul Patne, Secretary – Textiles, Government of Maharashtra
Mr. Narain Aggarwal, Chairman, SRTEPC
Textiles, Government of Maharashtra, Mr. Mihir Parekh, Director – Mega Textile Park, Government of Telangana, elaborated on respective State Government’s Industrial Policy and support it provides to the textile & apparel industry. Industry expectations were also spelled out by Mr. Narain Aggarwal, Chairman, SRTEPC during the session. Mr. Anjani Prasad, Managing Director, Archroma India, highlighted the importance of presence of strong value chain. He specified some of the potential areas of innovation in textiles like feel, comfort, looks, technology and functional technical textiles. He said that ecological and environmental factors are having a game-changing impact and there is an increasing push from legislators as well as consumers. Mr. Mohan Kavrie, Managing Director, Supreme Nonwoven, focused on the importance of robust systems and processes for any industry. He stated that the entire value chain in textile industry needs to be efficient for
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June 2018
POST EVENT REPORT overall growth of the industry. He stated the example of automobile industry in which even the Tier 1& 2 suppliers are forced to follow the norms and the same model. He also highlighted the importance of Government policies in leading to job creation. Finally, he urged the financial institutions not to be sceptical of the textile industry in general because of recent issues with few companies.
Mr. Rahul Mehta, Managing Director, Creative Casuals India, moderated the session which focused on the need to shift focus from product first to people and customers first. The session discussed upon moving beyond competitive prices to serve customers with the right product and in the right time. Mr. Sanjay Kumar Verma, Vice President – L&D, Reliance Industries Ltd., focused the need of efficient supply chain management with complete transparency in the value chain. Given the increasing focus of brands towards supply chain transparency, he emphasized the need to have social compliance in addition to being environmentally compliant. He stated that technology can be leveraged to provide full transparency to customers that ultimately leads to customer satisfaction. Hon’ble Minister of Textiles, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani with industry leaders at “Texellence 2018” which was held on 25th May 2018 in Mumbai.
VDMA MEMBERS SUCCESSFULLY MET INDIAN TEXTILES AND NONWOVENS: GERMAN TEXTILE MACHINERY RANKS FIRST Frankfurt / Mumbai, 29 May 2018 – India is a very important market for the German textile machinery industry, with an export of more than €255 million (+ 8 %) in 2017. Many German machinery builders have longstanding relations with Indian customers and quite a number of them also provide production plants and training centres in India. Not surprisingly, about 370 decision-makers and experts from the textile and nonwoven related industry attended the VDMA conference and B2B event called “German Technology meets Indian Textiles and Nonwovens” in Mumbai on 15-16 May 2018 (www.germantechindiantextile.de). According to a survey, both the event and German textile machinery engineering received the highest marks among the visitors. About 57 % of the visitors stated very good and 38 % good experience with machines and components from German suppliers. The performance and service promise as well as the high-quality standards have made German machine suppliers as most reliable partners in India and other countries. This positive result has by far not been reached by any other manufacturing nation from Europe or Asia. Asked for future processes, investments in technical textiles and/or nonwoven production seem to be the most favorite sectors in India. Around 74 % of the visitors plan to expand their production capacities with new machines and components
June 2018
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whereas 26 % intend to replace old machinery by new machines and components. High productivity, after-sales service, end-product quality, low operating and acquisition costs are the decisive machine procurement criteria in this order. The investments plans are based on a positive business and investment outlook in India. 45 % of the visitors surveyed plan to invest more than 10 % within the next 12 months and 30 % up to 10 %. 25 % of the visitors expect a sales increase by more than 10 % for the next 12 months and 60 % anticipate a sales growth of up to 10%. Considering this positive business climate and the high interest from the Indian industry, the 32 well-known VDMA members participated in the conference have good chances to offer the right technologies and to place new orders. The presented technology topics along the entire textile value chain will help the Indian industry to fulfill their expansion plans and to meet the challenges such as rising salary costs and shortage of labor in industrial regions. The major cutting-edge topics of the conference program were as follows: Higher profits throughout the entire textile value chain Energy, material, water and dyestuff savings for an environmentally friendly production New applications such as technical textiles, nonwovens (e. g. hygiene products, geotextiles for the infrastructure) or home textiles (e. g. terry towels)
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POST EVENT REPORT Automation, industry 4.0, digital communication and smart factory solutions Quality improvements e. g. with measurement and control systems Lower investment costs in spinning preparation with integrated draw frames New technologies to combine spinning and knitting Smart textiles and added value products e. g. with embroidery machines The complete program can be found here: www.germantech-indiantextile.de/program.html Whereas the event on 15-16 May 2018 focused on customers, a training session at the prestigious Veermata Jijabai Technological Institute VJTI in Mumbai on 17 May 2018 was addressed to future engineers. More than 220 textile manufacturing and mechanical engineering students followed the technical presentations. The VDMA’s contribution to improve the education of future customers and partners was very much appreciated. The VDMA Textile Machinery Association and VDMA India Office cordially thank all media partners and supporting Associations involved see (www.germantech-indiantextile.de). In 2018, the Association’s next sales supporting activities take place in Belarus, Brazil, Uzbekistan, Iran, China and Egypt. Participating VDMA member companies in India: A. Monforts Textilmaschinen, ANDRITZ Kuesters, Autefa Solutions, Benninger Zell, Brueckner Textile Technologies, DILO Systems + TEMAFA, Lindauer Dornier, Erbatech, Erhardt + Leimer, Festo, Groz-Beckert, Interspare, IQ-SPS, Karl Mayer, Küsters Textile, Lenze Mechatronics, Mahlo, Mayer & Cie., Neuenhauser Maschinenbau, Oerlikon Textile, Reseda Binder, Saurer, Sedo Treepoint, SETEX Schermuly textile computer, Texpa Maschinenbau, Thies Textilmaschinen, Truetzschler, Truetzschler Nonwoven & Man-Made Fibers, WEKO Weitmann & Konrad, Welker Vakuum, ZSK Stickmaschinen. VDMA Mechanical Engineering Industry Association
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With more than 3,200 members, the VDMA is the largest network organization for mechanical engineering in Europe. The association represents the common economic, technological and scientific interests of this diverse industry. Constantly looking to the future has been a key characteristic of the VDMA for over 125 years. The VDMA was founded in November 1892 and is the most important voice for the mechanical engineering industry today. It represents the issues of the mechanical and plant engineering sector in Germany and Europe. It successfully accompanies its members in global markets. Its technical expertise, industry knowledge and straightforward positioning make it a recognized and valued point of contact for companies as well as the general public, science, administration and policy makers. Textile Machinery Association The roundabout 120 textile technology manufacturers organised within the VDMA Textile Machinery Association represent approximately 95 % of Germany’s total production volume in this field. The main activities of the Textile Machinery Association are economic and technical representation of the branch’s interests, exchange of experiences as well as services such as statistics, observation of significant markets and reporting on the situation in the textile industry throughout the world. In addition, the Association supports the world’s largest international textile machinery exhibition ITMA (June 20 – 26, 2019, Barcelona, Spain, www.itma.com). German technology is also presented during the VDMA conferences, B2B meetings and business delegations worldwide to relevant stakeholders from the textile and nonwoven industry. For more information, please visit https://txm.vdma.org. Most of the companies are medium-sized. In 2017, the branch produced textile machinery and accessories worth around 3.5 billion euros. Caption: Very well-received VDMA conference and B2B in Mumbai
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June 2018
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
“EFFECT OF FABRIC ELONGATION WITH VARYING SEWING THREAD TENSION OF DIFFERENT WOVEN FABRIC ON SEAM PUCKERING� ABSTRACT The quality garment is largely depended upon the seam quality, which is the very important feature of any form of fabric assembly using sewing operations. The investigation has attempted to find out the relationship between fabric elongation & stitch thread tension on the occurrence of seam puckering at different woven fabric samples. In this attempt the different types of four fabrics are used to analyzed the occurrence of seam puckering at three different of sewing thread tension .The tendency of seam puckering is evaluated by the calculation of seam puckering coefficient percentage at different tension level. This study brought the results that seam puckering is majorly depended upon the quality of material, sewing machine & skills of operator. The tendency of more seam puckering has been observed on the low & high sewing thread tension in all fabric samples whereas the level of seam puckering is high in case of polyester dominated fabric with high elongated value. That is the determination of correct sewing tension setting with performance of woven elongation for a desirable & undesirable occurrence of puckering. Keywords: Fabric Elongation, Sewing thread tension, Seam puckering coefficient INTRODUCTION One of the most common interesting phenomena has encountered during garmenting that is Seam puckering .Seam puckering is the waviness structure of seam line in the fabric .Seam puckering effect is the resultant phenomena based upon the various mechanical properties of fabric and various technological parameters of sewing machine. [4,5,6] The fabric elongation is also important aspect of the quality garmenting process because its affect the movement of fabric during garment .In the previous work [1-2], the fabric elongation played major role in quality consideration for clothing manufacturing. Other studies on seam puckering [7,9,10] exhibited guidelines for the garment manufacturers on seam performance. This study provides the opportunity to evaluate the relationship between fabric elongation and seam puckering occurrence. In this study, combinations of fabrics samples are taken into consideration and sewn on warp and weft direction. Moreover, the influences of different fabric elongation value in warp &weft direction on seam performance & appearance would also be studied on the base of seam puckering coefficient.
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(Fig.No.1- Occurrence of Seam Puckering) MATERIALS AND METHODS 2.1 Materials: 2.1.1 Fabric: Commercially available and usually popular in market, the four types of shirting fabrics of polyester and cotton with different blend composition are taken into consideration for this study. The details of suiting fabric areTable no.1, Type of Fabric Type of Fabric
Given Title
100% Polyester
F1
60:40 Cotton & Polyester
F2
70:30 Cotton & Polyester
F3
100%Cotton
F4
2.1.2
Sewing Thread:
The sewing threads are configured for number of plies, actual linear density, twist direction and tensile properties are used. Commercially available & usually popular polyester sewing threads of different colour with same number is used for this study. (Table No.2-Type of Sewing Thread) Sewing Thread No.
Material
Colour
40
100% Polyester
y Brown-Bobbin Thread y White-Cop Thread
2.1.3 Sewing Machine: The most common & popular single needle lock stitch sewing machine for simple sewing operation is used for study.During sewing sample preparation the static bobbin thread tension is kept constant with other technological parameters of machines are kept constant. (Table No.3-Type of Sewing Machine)
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE Type
Company
Needle No.
Single Juki,Japan 16 No Needle Lock stitch
Dial No.
Stitch per inch
Speed (rpm)
2.5
10
5500
•
High sewing thread tension
The seam samples have prepared in such a way that the seams run through the middle of each samples. In that total number of seam samples are 4*2*3=24 that are each warp & weft of separate 4 different fabrics on 3 each level of sewing thread tension, low, medium & high . Seam samples have observed carefully & noted the puckering length (Shrinkage pucker) then Calculate the seam puckering coefficient ,the formula is Po= (L0-L1/L0)*100 Whereas L0 is initial sample length, L1 is sewn length of sample,P0 is seam puckering coefficient. Thereafter we prepared and analyzed the different related tables of observed value of seam puckered with different fabric elongation value at 3 different sewing thread tensions. The observed data are exhibited by graphs.
(Figure no.2, Single Needle lock stitch machine )
2.2.3Fabric Testing
2.2
Test Parameters
METHODS:
2.2.1 Fabric sample preparation First Stage of this study, procurement of suitable fabric .In that we used 4 different fabrics mentioned in that Table no.1.The main fabric specifications are tested under the standard condition. , The different tests are carried out for this study fabric strength, fabric crimp, fabric elongation. In second stage, we prepared the samples with measurement of 30*5 Centimeter (approximate 12*2 inches). We prepared the samples in warp & weft direction of each fabric samples. (Figure no.3-Sample preparation)
F1 Test Pa-
F2
F3
F4
Unit
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Fabric Crimp
-0.65
-0.60
-2.15
-1.33
-5.33
2.08
-2.25
-2.42
%
Fabric Strength
100.5
46.48
117.2
96.01
106.91
98.95
53.8
24.01
ibs
Fabric Elongation
31.11
21.85
30.42
17.03
34.61
16.81
9.75
10.37
%
rameters
RESULTS & DISCUSSION 3.1 Study on fabric elongation and seam puckering coefficient at different thread tension before wash 3.1.1 Effect on Low Sewing Thread Tension
2.2.2 Seam sample preparation In next stage, we applied the stitch on separate warp & weft wise direction of fabric samples at single needle lockstitch sewing machine, Juki, Japan and produced a balance seam under the constant sewing speed, needle size, standard sewing thread counts, feed system and bobbin thread tension. In this stage we used three variables of sewing thread tension•
Low sewing thread tension
•
Medium sewing thread tension
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(Graph no.1 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at Low Sewing thread tesnion warp wise )
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June 2018
TECHNICAL ARTICLE Table No.7 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at Low Sewing thread tension warp wise Fabric
Fabric Elongation %
Seam pucker coefficient %
(Graph no.3 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at Medium Sewing thread tesnion warp wise )
F1
31.11
3.33
Table no. 9 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at Medium Sewing thread tesnion warp wise
F2
30.42
3.33
F3
34.61
1.66
F4
9.75
1.66
This graph showed that occurance of high seam puckering in F1,F2,F3 at high fabric elongated perecentage of ployester contained fabric at warp face and low seam puckering in F4 contained 100% Cotton,low elongated percentage
Fabric
Fabric Elon- Seam pucker coefficient % gation %
F1
31.11
0
F2
30.42
0
F3
34.61
0
F4
9.75
0
This graph showed that no occurance of seam puckering (Graph no.4 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at Medium Sewing thread tension weft wise ) Table no 10 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at Medium Sewing thread tesnion weft wise ) (Graph no.2 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at Low Sewing thread tension weft wise )
Fabric
Fabric Elongation %
Seam pucker coefficient %
Table No.8 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at Low Sewing thread tension weft wise
F1
21.85
0
F2
17.03
0
F3
16.81
0
F4
10.73
0
Fabric
Fabric Elongation Seam pucker coefficient % %
F1
21.85
3.33
F2
17.03
2
F3
16.81
1.66
F4
10.73
1.66 This graph showed that occurance of high seam puckering in F1,F2 at high fabric elongated perecentage of ployester contained fabric at weft face and low seam puckering in F3,F4 contained 70% & 100% cotton respectively. 3.1.2 Effect on Medium Sewing Thread Tension
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This graph showed that no occurance of seam puckering 3.1.3 Effect on High Sewing Thread Tension (Graph no.5 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at High Sewing thread tension warp wise ) Table No 11 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at High Sewing thread tension warp wise
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TECHNICAL ARTICLE Fabric
Fabric Elon- Seam pucker coefficient % gation %
F1
31.11
16.66
F2
30.42
16.66
F3
34.61
13.33
F4
9.75
10
E%-Fabric Elongation percentage level
CONCLUSION This study concludes that, in the application of High sewing thread tension that gives high percentage of seam puckering coefficient more than 10%. The high elongated valued fabric showed high occurrence of seam puckering in Low & High Sewing thread tension. The no occurrence of seam puckering in case of Medium sewing thread tension in all fabric samples .The tendency of seam puckering has observed less in weft wise direction as compare to warp direction .The tendency of seam puckering is also depended upon the type of fabric, fabric elongation, fabric structure, type of sewing thread , sewing thread tension, feed tension, and skill of operator.
REFERENCE 1.Aušra Adomaitienė,Eglė Kumpikaitė, “Analysis of Mechanical Properties of Fabrics of Different Raw Material”, MATERIALS SCIENCE
This graph showed that occurance of very high seam puckering in F1,F2,F3 with polyester contained fabric and 10% seam puckering showed by F4 contained 100% cotton .high fabric elongated fabric showed very high seam puckering coeffieienct at high sewing thread tension . (Graph no.6 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at High Sewing thread tension weft wise ) Table no.12 Fabric Elongation with Seam puckering coefficeint at High Sewing thread tension weft wise ) Fabric
Fabric Elon- Seam pucker coefficient % gation %
F1
21.85
16.66
F2
17.03
15
F3
16.81
13.33
F4
10.73
10
This graph showed that occurance of very high seam puckering in F1,F2,F3 with polyester contained fabric and 10% seam puckering showed by F4 contained 100% cotton High fabric elongated fabric showed very high seam puckering coeffieienct at high sewing thread tension . Table no.13 Summary chart for relationship between fabric elongation and seam puckering coefficient at warp & weft wise
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Fabric E% (WarpWeft)
Seam puckering co efficient Seam puckering at Low Sewing Thread coefficient at Medium Tension Sewing Thread Tension Warp Weft Warp Weft Yes,3.3% Yes,3.33% No No
Warp Yes High 16%
Weft Yes High 16%
No
Yes High 16%
Yes High 15%
No
No
Yes High 13%
13%Yes High
No
No
Yes High 10%
Yes High 10%
F1
High (30-20%)
F2
High Yes,3.33% (30-17%)
Yes,2%
No
F3
High Yes,1.66% (34-16%)
Yes,1.66%
F4
Low (9-10%)
Yes,1.66%
Yes,1.66%
Seam puckering coefficient at High Sewing Thread Tension
(MEDŽIAGOTYRA). Vol. 17, No. 2. 2011 2. ahan I,”Effect of Fabric Structure on the Mechanical Properties of Woven Fabrics”, Advances research in Textile Engineering, October , 2017 3.Carr,Latham, “Technology of Clothing manufacture, Blackwell publication ,2008 4.S.Galusysnki, “Seam Pucker by S.Galusynski”,Sawtri special publication,2007 5. Ruth E. Glock, Grace I. Kunz,.Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis (3rd Edition) Prentice Hall published 6. Vaida Dobilaitė ,Milda Jucienė, Eglė Mackevičienė, “The Influence of Technological Parameters on Quality of Fabric Assemble”, MATERIALS SCIENCE (MEDŽIAGOTYRA). Vol. 19, No. 4 ,2013 7. V. Dobilaite, M. Juciene, “The influence of mechanical properties of sewing threads on seam pucker,” International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 18, no. 5, pp. 335–345, 2006 8.F. Fathy ,Saied Ebrahim, “The Impact of Sewing Threads Properties on Seam Pucker”, Journal of Basic and Applied Scientific Research,(2012)” 9. A.K. Choudhary, Amit Goel, “Effect of Some Fabric and Sewing Conditions on Apparel Seam Characteristics, Hindawi Publishing Corporation. (2013) 10. K.P.S. Cheng, K.P.W. Poon, “Studies on the Seam Properties of Some Selected Woven Fabrics, Textile Asia,Vol.33,2002 11. Principles of Textile Testing: An Introduction to Physical Methods of Testing Textile Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics,J.E.Booth,butterwo rth,1986
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June 2018
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
Ajay Shankar Joshi
Prof.T.K.Sinha
Prof.Tanveer Malik
Final Year Student, M.Tech in Textile Engineering ,Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya
Professor, Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology,
Assistant Professor, Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya
SUSTAINABLE MANAGEMENT
CHEMICAL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM – FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Sanjay Harane
Ex. Sr. Vice President, Nagreeka Exports Ltd.
Textile is one of the important and rising industries in India. Chemical wet processing of textile consumes 5000060000 chemicals, dyes and auxiliaries and some of them are banned due to carcinogenic or its ill impact. It has been imperative to produce quality goods at economical price but not at the cost of environment, health & hygiene. Due to hazardous nature of chemicals used in textile production, many adverse impacts are seen on human being, animals / plantation & atmosphere. To overcome this burning issue, it is essential to understand the matter in depth especially in textile production areas right from cotton growing to garment stage. Especially in processing industry, from pre-treatment to finishing needs to concentrate selection of eco-friendly chemicals including process parameters. Self-assessment of chemical inventory and chemical management systems will help to comply with global chemical legislation, Retailer & Brand Restricted Substance Lists (RSL’s) and Manufacturing Restricted Substance Lists (MRSL’s).
June 2018
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Textiles industries use different chemicals in different processes like Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching, dyeing, printing, finishing, softening, washing, specialized effects on garment etc. The textiles processing industries consumes huge quantity of water and produces large volume of waste water from different steps in various processes. These processed helps to get desired product but also generates lots of NPO – Non Productive Outputs - in the manner of air NOX, SOX, CO2 CO, effluent & sludge This leads to increase in pollution. Waste water from textile processing and dyeing containing residues requires appropriate treatment before being released into environment. It is obvious that these pollutants’ harmful to environment & hence, A thought is to be given for using low harmful chemicals in process which are easily bio degradable & can reduce the pollution level up to a large extent. CMS helps in selection of non-hazardous chemicals as well as reduction in water volume. We have Recent consciousness about eco-friendly processing in textile industry has increased awareness of environmental issues. Chemical Management System can help to reduce NPO (Non Productive Output) & reduces
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SUSTAINABLE MANAGEMENT pollution load on ETP & also confirm sustainable quality of product as per customer’s requirements. CMS is an effective tool for improving overall environmental and
chemical performance while achieving desired quality. This includes involvement right from top management to actual work force. This also includes right from Chemical manufacturer, Production houses, traders, & ultimate garment retailer. It is essential to bring awareness among everyone to protect mother earth from pollution. Let us understand CMS in details.
A) What is CMS CMS means, “To manage hazardous chemicals (covering physical, health, safety and environmental hazards) during selection, use & discharge of each chemical consumed in a plant. The chemical management will cover all chemicals in process, product & waste. Looking towards seriousness of subject & need of an hour, CMS is developed. There are many consultants who work on CMS & guide industries for better outputs by reducing hazards B) Objectives of CMS To meet legal Compliances To improve Productivity To maintain Health & Hygiene at facility & nearby area. To increase profit Profits of production houses. C) Advantages of CMS Cost savings with consistency in quality. Compliance in outputs (Product & waste - effluents) Saving in Natural resources (water & Energy) Reduce accidents & improves Health & Safety. Compliance with International & local legislations. D) How to Implement CMS Commitment of Top management for CMS Development of CMS team Development of CMS Policy (attached standard draft for reference) Deciding authorities & responsibilities of team member of CMS team. Training to CMS team & work force. Providing necessary formats for implementation of
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CMS in facility. Develop Chemical log & identify Physical / Human / Environmental Hazards of each chemical. Time bound action plan for identified hazards. Development of MIS System - Daily / Monthly check points & reporting system for CMS. Develop a system of self-assessment for continual improvement.
E) Examples for action plan (Towards continual improvement) Reduce chemical consumption by automation (pH control, Temp control, etc…) Use of Enzyme base or similar technology in pre treatments Techniques to Reduce Salt consumption. Replace Soda ash by Liquid alkali. Know chemicals & understand required parameters for application. Reuse y Water (standing bath technique, Counter current washing) y Recycle -Water from Pre-treatments. y Reuse - Salt from Dye bath drain. y Extract Water by using Vacuum slit instead of regular squeezing. y Recover Caustic from mercerize wash liquor. y Recover PVA from desizing. y Reuse of pigment paste. Single bath dyeing of PC blends for selective shades. Reduce MLR by various techniques F) Development of Good Work Practices Chemical Management Work Practices y Management of Material Safety Data Sheet. (MSDS & TDS) y Chemical Storage & Handling ( Storage, Correct Labelling & Transportation) y Optimization of Chemical Usage y Use of Personal Protective Equipment. y Regular testing of incoming & out going material. y Maintenance and Housekeeping. y Waste generation and Disposal. G) Develop Habit for work safety Understand MSDS & apply safety norms as per hazard identification Proper selection of PPE & it’s being used by workers. Define procedure for selection of chemicals. Regular review of chemical inventory log Chemical log must include all chemicals used in y Production
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June 2018
SUSTAINABLE MANAGEMENT y ETP y Laboratory y Housekeeping including toilets. Action plan for chemical seepages – Display at appropriate locations Display of First aid measures & team along with First aid boxes. Understand latest version of Brand RSL’s with permit values. Conformation of ch micals for brand RSLs from chemical suppliers
mental hazards) during selection, use & discharge of each chemical consumed in our plant. The chemical management will cover all chemicals in process, product & waste.
IN coming chapters, we will discuss more details of eleven priority chemical hazards
We also confirm that chemicals used and produced during our processes will have minimum adverse effect on human health and the environment, and the use of all toxic chemicals (this includes all chemicals listed in 11 priority groups as per priority list) will be eliminated as per time bound commitment.
1) Why these groups are considered as hazards. What are its impact on human 2) How to identify these groups in end product 3) How to avoid use of chemicals containing these chemicals Standard Chemical Management Policy (Facility cam modify as per requirements) Environmental Hazards are categorised into eleven priority groups as under.
We ensure protection of workers, communities and consumer health by managing compliance of the hazardous chemicals in our production systems, materials and products to the requirements of applicable legislations & Brand RSLs / MRSLs. We understand that maintenance of safe and healthy work environment is essential for productivity, quality, cost and above all employees’ well-being.
We achieve this by:1. Developing a chemical compliance team to manage hazards in raw materials, waste and input chemicals. 2. Understanding & implementing application methods of chemicals used for each process, as recommended by the chemical supplier. 3. Understanding MSDS & technical data sheet of each chemical, especially for its hazard and impact on health & environment.
1)
Phthalates
2)
APEO
3)
Azo Dyes
4)
Brominated & Chlorinated Flame retardants
5)
Chloro-phenols
6)
Chlorinated aromatics
5. Health & safety training for chemical hazards for all employees
7)
Chlorinated solvents
8)
Organotin Compounds
6. Compliance to the RSLs / MRSLs of serviced Brands by:
9)
Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffin’s (SCCPs)
10)
Heavy metals
11)
Per-fluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
We at XXX YYY ZZZ are committed to manage hazardous chemicals (covering physical, health, safety and environ-
4. Reduce the consumption of chemicals by adoption of clean technology and “green” products
a. Documenting and communicating the RSLs / MRSLs to employees and raw material suppliers. b. Ensuring correct and complete Declarations from chemical suppliers c. Regularly updating & communicating the revisions in the RSLs / MRSLs
‘‘ Leaders don’t Force people to follow ... They invite them on a Journey... ’’ June 2018
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ASSOCIATION NEWS HANDHOLDING SUPPORT OF THE HON’BLE TEXTILE MINISTER SMT. SMRITI ZUBIN IRANI TOWARDS TO THE MAN-MADE FIBRE TEXTILE SEGMENT TO OVERCOME THE CHALLENGES BEING FACED BY THE EXPORTERS. The continued initiatives taken by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India are helping the Man-made fibre textile segment of the country to rebound its growth momentum. Sri Narain Aggarwal, Chairman, SRTEPC express his gratitude and thanks to Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Textile Minister, for her pro active and industry friendly initiatives. Sri Narain Aggarwal, informed that during a Meeting recently held in Delhi on 27th May, 2018 the Hon’ble Textile Minister has kindly given approval for inclusion of yarns and fabrics also under the ROSL scheme and this will provide substantial relief to the Manmade Fibre segment. During the Meeting she has also informed positive consideration for upward revision in the duty drawback rates along with ROSL. In this regard, the Duty Drawback Committee of the Government is visiting Surat on 11th to take stock of the situation of the textile manufacturers for appropriate revision of the existing DBK rates. The initiatives taken by the Hon’ble Textile Minister will certainly give big push to the Manmade fibre segment of the country, Sri Narain Aggarwal stated. Hon’ble Textile Minister has also positively reviewed a memorandum submitted by SRTEPC with urgent issues such as urgent payment of pending GST refunds, refund of ITC, refund of IGST on capital goods, reimbursement of central taxes not being reimbursed through ITC under GST, request Drawback Committee to re-examine ROSL Scheme to increase the rate for MMF segment and include Yarn and Fabrics under ROSL Scheme, extension of MEIS scheme up to 31.03.2019 by which WTO compatible scheme be formulated and increase the rate to all MMF yarns, fabrics & made-ups and increase Effective Duty on Imports. Hon’ble Minister has also positively considered to review accumulation
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of ITC at various stages of textiles and viz., Weaving, processing, embroidery and other value-added segments for enabling full refund of ITC so that our exports can be more competitive, Sri Narain Aggarwal, informed. Sri Narain Aggarwal stated that the recent initiative – Special Drive Refund Fortnight of the Government for clearing backlog of ITC refunds has been helpful for the exporters. In this regard, the Ministry of Textiles had invited the queries including pending refund claims from Councils and accordingly it has coordinated with the Ministry of Finance for amicably sorting out the issues. The decision taken by the RBI to ease NPA classification norms for units facing input credit linkages and associated issues, will greatly help the MSME sector. In continuation of support and relief to MSMEs, NPA recognition for GST and non GST MSMEs now at 180 days for dues up to December 31, 2018. Tapering norm from January 1, 2019 is to encourage GST registration. Sri Narain Aggarwal informed that this has become feasible due to the handholding support provided by Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Textile Minister who took the initiative to write to the Ministry of Finance and recommended for it. This has been done with a view to ease the transition of MSMEs to the formalised sector post their registration under the GST Sri Narain Aggarwal informed. Another recent milestone initiative taken by the Hon’ble Textile Minister is “Samarth” – Scheme for capacity building in Textiles Sector: The policy guidelines under the Scheme for Capacity Building in Textiles Sector called “Samarth” have been issued on 23rd April, 2018. The Scheme is aimed at skilling the youth for gainful and sustainable employment in the Textiles Sector. The Ministry of Textiles has now invited Request for Proposals (RPF) for Empanelment of Im-
plementing Agencies for undertaking training programme under “Samarth” and the last date of application is 25th of June 2018. Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani, Hon’ble Textile Minister, had also kindly approved a Study “To Promote Growth of Manmade fibre Textiles in India – Roadmap to Identify Gaps and Suggest Measures”. The Study has been under progress and Government jointly with the Council has shortlisted the competing Agencies for issue of Request for Proposals (RFP) as part of the Bidding process. It will be a Benchmark Study in the history of the Manmade fibre segment in India. Encouraged by her proactive initiative for ensuring exponential growth in MMF Textiles sector, SRTEPC organized an exclusive Mega Reverse Buyers-Sellers Meet called “SOURCE INDIA” during August 2016, which enabled many companies from the MSME sector to meet more than 95 visiting global buyers representing 31 countries, and discuss business. Since the global Mega Event of textiles organized by SRTEPC proved to be a “Trend Setter” and generated an amount of business, which is around Rs. 50 crores. With the kind support of the Hon’ble Textile Minister 2nd Edition of “Source India” has been approved by the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India. Accordingly, SRTEPC is organising 2nd Edition of “Source India” from 21st to 23rd September 2018 in Surat inviting around 200 global buyers from more than 35 countries, who will discuss business with around 200 SRTEPC member-companies for sourcing their requirements of MMF Textiles from India. The Manmade fibre textile industry is confident that the pro-industry policy initiatives taken by the Hon’ble Textile Minister will help the industry to sustain continued growth.
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June 2018
ASSOCIATION NEWS
ITAMMA WINS THE 4TH AWARD FOR RESPONSIBLE INDIAN BMOS UNDER THE CATEGORY “ENVIRONMENT RESPONSIBILITY” AT NATIONAL LEVEL. We feel elated to inform you that ITAMMA has won the 4th Award for Responsible Indian BMOs under the category “Environment Responsibility” at National level. Foundation for MSME Clusters (FMC) is a pioneering organisation specialising in promoting of MSMEs through cluster and value chain led development. Established as a trust in June 2005, FMC has experience of working directly and indirectly with over 100,000 MSMEs in around 200 clusters in over 15 other countries across the globe. FMC has its corporate office in Delhi and branch/representative offices in the states of Andhra Pradesh/Telangana, Karnataka, Punjab, Rajasthan and West Bengal. 145 BMOs (also known as Industry Associations) at National, State, District and State levels, from 19 States competed for an all India Award for “Responsible Indian BMO” held on 8th February, 2018 in New Delhi by the Foundation for MSME Clusters (FMC). ITAMMA had applied for this Award
June 2018
on 27th Nov’2017, under the category “Environment Responsibility” at National level , where main thrust was given on the following activities –
documentary proofs, photographs, videos and case study details. The same was submitted by the office on 6th Jan’2018-02-13
i) Lean Manufacturing Competitiveness Scheme programme organised at Gujarat and Panipat (for enriching knowledge and strengthening the technological development of its members).
On 26-01-2018 Foundation for MSME Clusters (FMC) declared that ITAMMA have been selected for the “Final Round” by the Jury under the category “Environment Responsibility” at National level , and asked ITAMMA to make the final presentations as per the questionnaire submitted (received by us on 31st Jan’2018 7 submitted by us on 5th Feb’2018) in front of the Jury on 7th February, 2018 and thereby attend the Award function on 8th February, 2018 to receive the Award.
ii) Occupational Health and Safety, First Aid and Safety Training camps organised at Navi Mumbai (social initiatives of ITAMMA - CSR). iii) Cost effective schemes organized during International and National Events (exploring and enhancing business opportunities for its members). On 26-12-2017 Foundation for MSME Clusters (FMC) declared that ITAMMA being “selected for the Next Round” and informed that our application was“preliminary short listed” by the Jury at country level under Environment Category for next round of “final short listing” and asked ITAMMA to submit various supporting
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The Award ceremony was attended by our Mr. Sukhbir Singh Malik, Managing Committee member, on 8th February, 2018 at Indian International Centre, New Delhiwho received the Award on behalf of ITAMMA. Mr. Prashant R. Gandhi, Past-President attended the Technical Presentation on 7th February, 2018 on Skype.
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CORPORATE NEWS ITEMA Group Announces First Quarter 2018 Results: Weaving Machines Sales Exceeding Expectations and Turnover Registering Growth Across All Business Units Itema Group, the leading global provider of advanced weaving solutions, including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services, announced its results for the first quarter of 2018, once again confirming the Group constant growth over the past few years. The turnover amounted to €80.5 million in the first quarter of 2018, increasing by +15% compared to same period last year. A special mention goes to the Company’s core business, manufacturing and marketing of best-in-class weaving machines, which registered unprecedented sales results over the same period of 2017. An exceptional leap for Itema weaving machines which increasingly represent the preferred choice and continue to gather the appreciation of weavers in the main textile markets such as China, Turkey and India. The turnover shows the Group’s strong international presence with the 92% of the total resulting from foreign markets. The Italian market achieved good results as well, with the positive trend registered in weaving machines sales demonstrating the good market performances of the “Made in Italy” premium quality fabrics producers. But weaving machines were not alone in providing satisfaction for Itema. In 2017 the Group launched a diversification strategy – “Project Galaxy” - that led as its first successful operation to the acquisition of a majority interest (61%) in Lamiflex, leading supplier of technical composite products for the textile, aeronautical and medical industries whose turnover increased by 6% YOY in the first quarter of 2018. Itema, although conscious to operate in a highly volatile market subject to sudden slowdowns due to the fragile macroeconomic and political
40
conditions of certain textile markets, will face the rest of the year relying on the momentum and confidence ensured by a well-filled order book for the upcoming months. Carlo Rogora, Itema Group CEO, commented: “The excellent results achieved in this first part of 2018 are the result of two crucial strategic decisions taken by the Group: our positioning as technological leader in the sector and our dedication to international growth. Since 2012 Itema succeeded in more than doubling the sales of its weaving machines collecting constantly increasing profits thanks to our tireless and steady commitment to continuous innovation which led us to develop breakthrough and smart weaving solutions, enabling our Group to become the industry technological benchmark. Research and innovation (in which the Group invests 3% of its turnover every year) will continue to be our driver.” As a real proof of the Itema focus on innovation, the Company recently launched on the market (during ITM 2018 exhibition held in Istanbul in April) the new R95002denim rapier weaving machine, the Second Generation of the weaving machine specifically designed and developed to excel in denim weaving which features numerous advancements and a breakthrough innovation. With iSAVER™, developed by the advanced innovation department ItemaLab™, Itema pushes the boundaries of innovation in the weaving industry. For the first time since the launch of the industrial weaving machine Itema introduced a breakthrough innovation able to completely eliminate the waste selvedge on the fabric left side and leading to substantial, real and measurable savings for denim weavers. Economic saving is not the unique outstanding benefit, since
iSAVER™ sets a new benchmark in sustainable weaving, significantly reducing raw materials waste. The Group confirms its firm determination in strengthening its leadership and growing not only organically but also through targeted acquisitions (“Project Galaxy”) thus creating significant synergies along the respective supply chains to grow not only in the textile machinery sector, but also to expand into new, highly innovative industries. In this scenario finds its place the acquisition of majority stakes in Lamiflex, the first in a series of important operations meant to ultimately accelerate the continued expansion and secure the long-term profitability of Itema by diversifying into complementary, high-growth markets through stakes in innovation-driven companies. “With this precise objective in mind Itema also recently considered a listing on the stock market, with an IPO which passed all the tests for obtaining the admission to the Italian Stock Exchange but did not arrive at completion solely due to the - sudden - changes in the equity market conditions that held back investor momentum. Our decision is an objective assessment of what we see as best for Itema in this specific moment, particularly taking into account that our positive net financial position and our excellent market results enable us to continue autonomously along our growth path”, Mr. Rogora added. “With our shareholders’ full-fledged support we will therefore proceed in building an even more solid and competitive Group at a global level and in concentrating our extensive R&D efforts on offering better, smarter, faster solutions, increased performances, reduced consumption and enhanced user-friendliness,” Rogora concluded.
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June 2018
SHOW CALENDAR
June 2018 27-29
28-29
22-24
Heimtextil India Delhi/India http://heimtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com FICCI - TECHNOTEX-2018 Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon, Mumbai www.technotexindia.in
July 2018 03-05
16- 21
27-29
October 2018 15-19
HGH India Mumbai / India http://www.hghindia.com/ NGF 2018 Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in
25-27
26
August 2018 04-06
05-07
07
11-13
18-20
29-31
30-01
YARN Expo Surat / India https://issuu.com/textilevaluechain/docs/ yarn_expo_2018_brochure Knit Show Tirupur/ India knitshow@gmail.com Australian Cotton Conference Queensland/ Australia www.australiancottonconference.com.au Yarn Fab Expo Ludhiana/ Punjab www.igmatexindia.com GARTEX INDIA 2018 Delhi/ India www.gartexindia.com Gentex expo Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.gentexfair.com Yarn Fabric Accessories (YFA) Ludhiana/ Punjab www.yfatradeshow.com
8
13-16
12-15
18-20
June 2018
Cinte-Techtextil Shanghai/ China http://cinte-techtextil-china.hk.messefrankfurt.com/ 14th International Conferences on Apparel and Home Textiles New Delhi / India www.ogtc.in TTG EXPO Taipei / Taiwan www.ttgexpo.com.tw/en 19th TexTech Bangladesh 2018 Dhaka / Bangladesh www.textechonline.org/textechbd Heimtextil Russia 2018 Moscow / Russia heimtextil-russia.ru.messefrankfurt.com
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ITMA ASIA +CITME 2018 Shanghai, China http://www.itmaasia.com InterDye & Textile Printing Istanbul/ Turkey www.interdyeprinting.com Global Cotton Conclave Goa/ India www.teflas.com
November 2018 12-14
14-16
15-18
21-24
International Apparel & Textile Fair Dubai/UAE http://internationalapparelandtextilefair.com/ Intex South Asia 2017 Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.intexfair.com/ Big Fab 2018 Dhaka / Bangladesh https://www.redcarpet365.com VTG Ho Chi Minh City/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com
December 2018 1-3
04-05
6-9
September 2018 4-6
TEMTECH 2018 Bhilwara / Rajasthan www.temtechindia.com Yarnex Tirupur India http://yarnex.in
ITMACH Africa / AFRICA Sourcing show Nairobi/ Kenya www.itmach.com Filtrex Asia Shanghai/ China http://2016.filtrationasia.com MTG YCC / Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com/mtg
January 2019 4-6
9-12
18-20
SITEX Surat/ India www.sitex.sgcci.in DTG Dhaka / Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com/dtg/ GTTES Mumbai/India www.gttes.india-itme.com
June 2019 20-26
ITMA 2019 Barcelona, Spain http://www.itma.com/
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Advt,
8.1
8.1
EVENNESS TESTER KET V++/C
(for filament yarn) NEW MODEL
- V++
7 7
“Individual Fiber length 6mm – 30 mm available.”
YARN CLEARER TRICHORD FLEX WITH FOREIGN FIBER DETECTION
/ LS
"YOGIDHARA", 2 Nandanvan Society, Indubhai Patel Road, Alkapuri, Vadodara 390 007. Gujarat. India Phone : 0265 2312730 / 2351634. Webpage : www.thymas.com Email : thymasltd@gmail.com, tepl26@yahoo.com
#
PAYMENT: Paying by cash/cheque/Demand draft No 1 Year
12 Issue
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24 Issue
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36 Issue
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Contact Person: Address: Phone No. Mobile No.:
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Email Id : Website :
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Singnature
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June 2018
INTERVIEW SPINNING IS NOT A MERE MANUFACTURING PROCESS BUT ITS A PASSION AT OZONE PB SPINTEX LTD, Brand name : Ozone Segment : Manufacturing of Cotton Yarn from 20s to 40s Ne Brand Tagline : Precision Unlimited business. Impact of GST on your business I think it will be positive for overall industry, with initial hiccups. What are the current issues being faced by your segment? Suggestions pls.
DHARMENDRA SHAH
Managing Director, Ozone PB Spintex Ltd , Ahmedabad Inspiration to start the company We started our company in 2012. It is a dream comes true. After completing degree in Textile Engineering, I started my carrier as Shift Supervisor. Since then it was a dream and goal to have a most modern textile unit covering entire value chain from Farm to Fashion. Challenges / Hardships you faced during the journey‌ I will say, journey was full of excitement and learning process of lots of new things. Achievement till date Establishment of Ozone brand as premium yarn supplier. Also have certifications like Oekotex, Organic, BCI, etc. We are nominated suppliers of global brands also. What motivated you to focus on quality value added products? Spinning is not a mere manufacturing process for us. In fact, it is a passion and I put all my knowledge to develop high quality value added products to meet buyer’s expectations. Our yarn has reached to almost all parts of the world. We believe that, Customer is King and it is our duty is to fulfil their requirement. 5. Does your clientele have preference towards any particular kind of technology?
Major issue faced by textile industry in India is raw material prices and availability of manpower. If the Raw material prices remain competitive (Government can do this by not allowing speculations), then our industry can survive very well. Also we need to do a lot on skilled man power supply. What is your take on the future scenario of your segment in the domestic as well as global market? Mankind will not survive without fabrics and fabric is not possible without yarn. So our future is bright. With huge investment in sector in comparison to competitors, we will have edge on quality and productivity. Vision for reaching for next level i.e. Future plan for next 5 and 10 years? Completion of value chain right from Fibre to fashion should be a vision for any textile company. USP of Brand : Zero customer dissatisfaction Branding Strategies in Indian and International Market? Presence in all media, participation in expos, global certifications What new Technology/Innovation expect from world? Introduction of robots as ring frame operators & Installation of Solar energy sources, Application of AI (Artificial intelligence)
Buyer has little concern with technology. He looks for optimum product suitable to his need. But we have gone for the best technology so that we can cater to all our buyer need with cost effectivity. Whenever, we do investment in technology, we select best and latest available in the market, as no survival without innovation in product /
June 2018
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June 2018
SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS
MR.SURESH SARAF
MR. NAYAN SARAF
Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com
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June 2018 Address: Room No.-17,www.textilevaluechain.com Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 www.textilevaluechain.com
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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore March 2018
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TM
TEXTILE SHOW
Yarns Fabrics Trims & Accessories Denims Allied Services CAD / CAM Services Textile & Garment Machinery Dyestuffs & Chemical Products Technical Information Services Associated Goods & Services
+91 902 901 9100 +91 867 683 3441 +91 766 648 3612 E: gentexfair@gbcindiaexpo.com
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Exhibiting Country : India | Sri Lanka | Pakistan China | Germany | Italy | Netherlands Bangladesh
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