MARCH 2019 ISSUE

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MARCH 2019

Volume 7

Issue 3

Sustainability & Recycled Clothing Highlights of Tamilnadu Textile Policy 2019 Market Report : Cotton, Yarn, Fabric Care, Apparel, Technical Textile, Surat Interviews Prakash Awade, Leader of Ichalkaranji Dr. Selvaraju, SIMA Gagandeep Singh, Denim Manufacture Association

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting OďŹƒce,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 52

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November 2018

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From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment with the product brands Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag is the world market leader for filament spinning systems, texturing machines and BCF carpet yarn, staple fiber spinning as well as nonwovens solutions.

Spinning

Creeling

Drying

For further information visit us at www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers

Cutting

Continuous Polycondensation Transfer Line

Gear Metering Pumps

Drawing/Cooling

Baling

Spinning/ Quenching Take-up/Winding

Doffing Texturing

March 2019

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oe_AZ_BITL_WTIN ConferenceBooklet_A4_rz.indd 1

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YEARS

India's Leading Manufacturer & Exporter of

Torrey Twister

GRIPPERS Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLE RINGS/ROLLERS

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RAPIER TAPES Picanol/Dornier/Vamatex/Sulzer/Somet

TEMPLES

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March 2019

March 2019

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SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS

MR.SURESH SARAF

MR. NAYAN SARAF

Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com

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www.textilevaluechain.com Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 www.textilevaluechain.com

March 2019 March 2018

FIMATEST Herbert Stein GmbH & Co.KG. Germany

Fibre-Matrix Adhesion Tester

The pull-out device to be installed in Textechno’s FAVIMAT+

Textechno’s new FIMABOND device

The performance of composite materials strongly depends on the adhesion of the fibres to the matrix. Textechno’s innovative testing system FIMATEST determines the fiber/matrix adhesion. It consists of the FIMABOND embedding station and a high precision pull-out device as accessory to Textechno’s single fiber testing instrument FAVIMAT+.

The complete system provides precise measurements of the adhesion as well as essential information on the properties of the fiber (linear density, diameter, tenacity/elongation, modulus, etc.)

WORLD TRADERS MFG. CO. 1413 , Maker Chambers V, 14th Floor, Nariman Point Mumbai India - 400021 www.textilevaluechain.com 2019 Tel : 022March 22843423/22872935 | Fax:022 22872534 | Email:info@wtmcindia.com | Web:www.wtmcindia.in

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Media Partner

3 4 5 AUGUST 2019

SURAT - GUJARAT - INDIA 8

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March 2019

High-Quality Yarns Produced with High Flexibility Ring Spinning Machine G 37 The ring spinning machine GÂ 37 produces flexibly high-quality ring yarns. Yarn parameters can be easily changed on the operating unit. http://l.ead.me/ bayVeZ

Energy-efficient components save energy. The individual spindle monitoring system ISM basic increases the efficiency of the machine and can save about 3% personnel cost.

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The Comfort of Competence March 2019

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March 2019

EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Chief Editor Graphic Designer Associate Editor

: Ms. Jigna Shah : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar : Mr. Anant A. Jogale : Mr. Swaminathan

INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : Business Head (DYES), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. Mr. R.D. Udeshi : President- Polyester Chain,

Reliance Industries Ltd. EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT Mr. R.M. Shankar : Asst. Director, ATIRA

CONTENT

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher.

Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher.

Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075.

Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

March 2019

COVER STORY: SUSTAINIBILITY

41- Association News : SRTEPC

13- Sustainable Fibre: Processing of Abaca fibers in Textile Industries by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra

39- Tamilnadu Textile Policy highlights

15- Recycling/ Sustainability: Management of post consumer Textile Waste by Prerna Kapilla & B.S. Dhillon MARKET REPORT

18- Flame Retardant Apparel Market Forecast

by FACT MR 20- Indian Apparel Exporter Struggle by ICRA 22- Yarn Report by Textile Beacon 23- Cotton Report by MCX India

41- An incredible story of growth – S.T. Cottex 42- Show Calendar INTERVIEWS

43- Prakash Awade, Leader of Ichalkaranji, Maharashtra, INDIA. 44- Dr. Selvaraju, Secretary General of SIMA Coimbatore / India 45- Gagandeep Singh, Denim Manufacture Association, Delhi India

24- Fabric Care Market Report by Future Market Insights 25- Surat Report by TVC Reporter

TECHNICAL PAPER

Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond

Page 8: YARN EXPO Surat

Back Inside: SAVIO

Page 9: Rieter

EVENT REPORT

Front Inside: Raysil

Page 10: ATE

30- Textile 4.0 by TAI

Page 3: Oerlikon

Page 44: Vora Associates

33- ITMACH INDIA 2019

Page 4: Sanjay Plastic

Page 47: DN Associates

34- CAI Conference 2019

Page 5: LRT

Page 48: Non Woven Tech Asia

TECHNICAL TEXTILE

Page 6: SKBS

Page 49: Amith Garment

26- TEXTILE PROCESSING: Micro capsulation in textile Finishing By Professors of VVV college, Indore, INDIA

36- Time to rethink , How well you know about wet wipes Page 7: World Traders ? by Jürgen Eizinger, Lenzing AG

Page 50: ITMACH INDIA

37- Association News : CITI

March 2019

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EDITORTIAL

SUSTAINABILITY AND RECYCLING IS NEW BUZZ IN DISRUPTIVE ECONOMY..!

‘‘

A Society is defined not only by what it creates, but by what it refuses to destroy.

- John Swahill

’’

Is sustainability leading to more recycling products? Or Due to sustainable conscious fashion brands are making more recycling products?

Why conventional textiles manufacturer fear the recycling? Raw material like cotton, synthetic fibers are competing their space in the world market, but slowly regenerated fibers and recycling fibers / products entering to consumer mind. Dynamic of raw material is shifting towards new avenue.

Today‘s Consumer is driven by fashion and lifestyle, which will involve lot of creative distraction from manufacturing side, brand owners mindset and testing of skillset of humans. Companies will be going from mass manufacturing to mass customization. Creating a value by making excellent product with optimum utilization of resources is the Sustainable product. This could be in all the segments from Fiber, yarn, fabric , processing , garment and retail and human resources. Buyers are conscious about who are their suppliers for raw material, processing and finished goods and expect complete transparency in entire value chain process, which is today easily managed by electronic media.

Green Story, Re-use, Recycle is the buzz word of the fashion industry.

Creating a brand story on this words are easy and acceptable in fashion /environment conscious people. But in India, at mass level still this is new buzz word / concept.

Living in the disruptive economy, it enables us two opportunities. First, it allows companies to redefine how and why they work. Such an organizational awakening then leads into the second opportunity for companies to adopt: a better way to serve employees who choose to work there because they believe in the company’s purpose. If you really think about it, disruption is the very essence of redefining one’s value proposition, purpose or product. At its core, to disrupt is to end X and subsequently create Y. The digital disruption of today compels new thinking and behaviors that “end” one trend while ironically giving rise to new awakenings that previously didn’t exist. In other words, with disruption comes the opportunity for eruption--the closing of one door and the innovative opening of another; the opportunity to create and proliferate.

We understand that industry will take this disruption in a positive attitude and grow to the next height in more meaningful and fruitful way.

Wish you all Constructive New Financial Year..!

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

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March 2019

SUSTAINABLE FIBER

PROCESSING OF ABACA FIBRES IN TEXTILE INDUSTRIES

Over the last few years , ecological concerns have initiated a considerable interest in natural materials to produce “ green “ products .The rapidly increasing environ mental awareness , growing global waste problem , geometrically increased crude oil prices ( the raw material of synthetic fibres ) and high processing cost trigger the development concepts of sustainability and reconsideration of renewable resources .Asia is blessed with an abundant and diverse amount of natural fibres .In addition to the main natural fibres , cotton , linen , wool and silk , which are used for the manufacture of garments and fabrics used personally or in the home , there are a number of other types which are in use but to lesser extent .The most important of these are ramie , jute , flax , hemp , abaca ,raffia , buntal ,bicol and nettle fibres .

The Musaceae family of plants is one of the most useful in the world . It provides us with all manner of foods and industrial raw materials. Musa sapientum , for example , gives us the banana . The only distinguishing feature is that its leaves are skinnier and more upright than that of a banana . It bears fruit as well , but it is less adible than bananas . Musa textiles is a source of abaca fibre or Manila hemp.The abaca plant is indigenous to the Philippine Islands; native islanders were making textiles from its fibres when Magellan visited the islands in 1521 during his circumnavigation of the globe . The first authentic account of the use of either abaca or banana fibre in the Philippines is that given by an Englishman , Dampler ( = William Dampler ) ,who lived in Mindanao in 1686 . During the early 19 th century , supplies of abaca began to reach the Western world , and its value as a cordage fibre was quickly appreciated . It was better than hemp for many purposes , particularly in marine ropes and hawsers .Abaca was first cultivated on a large scale in Sumatra in 1925 under the Dutch , who had observed its cultivation in the Philippines for cordage since the 1800 s ,followed up by plantings in Central America sponsored by the U.S Department of Agriculture . Commercial planting began in 1930 in British North Borneo with the commencement of World War II , the supply from the Philippines was eliminated by the Japanese .

Despite the many attempts that have been made to establish abaca production in other parts of the world , the Philippine Islands remain the chief source of the fibre . Total production in 1977 was 75,000 tonnes , of which some 85 % came from the Philippines . The remainder came from Ecuador . Abaca is not only the most important fibre , but also the most important export product of the Philippines .For a number of years this fibre comprised approximately two-thirds of the total export trade of the Islands .

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In the commercial world this fibre is known as ‘manila hemp ‘ or ‘manila ‘. It is often called ‘ hemp ‘ , especially locally by the English- speaking community , but this term is both incorrect and misleading , and its use should be discontinued in favour of the Spanish-Filipino term “ abaca “ . Other common names for abaca include “ Cebu hemp “ and “ Davao hemp “ PRODUCTION AND PROCESSING Musa Textilis grows easily in the Philippines and needs little cultivation . It is also grown widely as well in Borneo and Sumatra . It is sometimes referred to as BacBac. .Abaca fibre is obtained from the leaf sheath of the abaca , Musa Textilis Nee . Abaca is indigenous to the Phillipines and is similar to banana in appearance except that the leaves are upright , pointed , narrower and more tapering than the leaves of the banana . The plant is of great economic importance , being harvested for its fibre , once generally called Manila hemp , extracted from the leaf sheath around the trunk .To make the fibre , you have to strip off the outer sheath of the trunk of the abaca plant and pull out individual fibres that run the height of the trunk . On average , the plant grows about 20 feet ( 6 meters ) tall . The leaves grow from the trunk of the plant , and the bases of the leaves from a sheath ( covering ) around the trunk ; there are approximately 25 of these , with 5 cm in diameter and from 12 to 25 leaves with overlapping petioles , covering the stalk to form a shrub , “ false trunk “ or pseudo trunk about 30 to 40 cm in diameter . They grow in succession , with the oldest growing from the bottom of the trunk and successively younger ones from the top . The sheaths contain the valuable fibre . The coarse fibres range from 5 to 11 feet in length . They are composed primarily of the plant materials such as a.Cellulose. b.Lignin. c.Pectin The plant is normally grown in well –drained loamy soil , using pieces of mature root planted at the start of the rainy season . Growers harvest abaca fields every 3-8 months after an initial growth period of 18-25 months and a total lifespan of about 10 years . Harvest generally includes having several operations concerning the leaf sheaths . Harvesting abaca is labouious . Each stalk must be cut into strips which are scraped to remove the pulp .

The fibres are then washed and dried .

Following are the three steps involved ; 1.Tuxying ( separation of primary and secondary sheath

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SUSTAINABLE FIBER 2.Stripping ( getting the fibres ).

3.Drying ( usually following tradition of sun –drying .)

The fibres can then be spun into twines or cordage . Lupis is the finest quality of abaca . Sinamay is woven chiefly from abaca . The world ‘s leading abaca producer is the Philippines , where the plant is cultivated on 130,000ha by some 90,000 small farmers . While the crop is also cultivated in other Southeast Asian countries , the Philippines ‘ closest rival is Ecuador , where abaca is grown on large estates and production is increasingly mechanized .In 2007 , the Phillipines produced about 60,000 tonnes of abaca fibre , while Ecuador produced 10,000 tonnes .

World production is valued at around 30 million dollars a year .Almost all abaca produced is exported , mainly to Europe , Japan and the USA . Exports from the Phillipines are increasingly in the form of pulp rather than raw fibre .

STRUCTURE AND PROPERTIES Abaca fibre is considered as the strongest among natural fibres . It is classified as a hard fibre , along with coir , henequen and sisal . The length of the fibre varies from 3 -9 feet or more depending on the height of the plant and the age of the leafsheath . The colour of the fibre ranges from ivory white to light and dark brown . Abaca rope is very durable , flexible and resistant to salt water damage .

Abaca is the premier cordage fibre of the world .It is a structural ( hard ) fibre obtained from the outer layers of the overlapping leaf sheaths which form the stalks of the abaca plant . It is very light ,strong , and durable .

When properly extracted and dried , it is also of white , lustrous colour . One particular feature of the abaca fibre which emphasizes its superiority over all other fibres of its class is its great strength and its resistance to the action of water , hence its particular adaptability for marine ropes .Abaca is a leaf fibre , composed of long slim cells that form part of the leaf’s supporting structure .

Lignin content is a high 15% .Abaca is prized for its great mechanical strength , buoyancy , resistance to salt water damage , and long fibre length – upto 3 m. . The best grades of abaca are fine , lustrous , light beige in colour and very strong .

The fibre was originally used for making twines ,ropes ,fishing lines and nets , as well as coarse cloth for sacking . as well as the Manila envelope ; now most abaca is pulped and used in a variety of paper –like products including filter paper , tea bags , vacuum bags and bank notes . It can be used to make handicrafts like bags , carpets , clothing and furniture . It is used in rope,hawsers , ship’s lines and fishing nets .

Abaca fibre , famous world-wide as Manila Hemp , is versatile and flexible in its use .It ‘s principal use ranges from industrial cordage , handicraft , fashion products such as hats and accessories , home and houseware and decorative products .Speciality use includes the manufacturing of speciality paper such as in the case of the Japanese Yen , while Hygienic applications incude the production of coffee and tea bags , sausage casing and textile dye filters . The use of the abaca fibre though is not limited to those mentioned above. Paper made from abaca pulp is used in stencil papers , cigarette filter papers , tea –bags and sausage skins , and also in currency paper ( Japan’s yen bank notes contain up to 30 % abaca ) The spinning mill development department is exploring the possibility of using abaca fibre with other natural fibre and synthetic blends and making yarn and weaving into shirtings, suitings and dress materials. There is also a flourishing niche market for abaca clothing , curtains , screens and furnishings .

Mercedes Benz has used a mixture of polypropylene thermoplastic and abaca yarn in automobile body parts . Production of abaca fibre uses an estimated 60 % less energy than production of glass fibre .

USES OF ABACA FIBRE During the 19 th century abaca was widely used for ships’rigging and pulped to make sturdy manila envelopes.

DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

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March 2019

RECYCLING / SUSTAINABILITY

MANAGEMENT OF POST CONSUMER TEXTILE WASTE

Sustainability is a contemporary, meaningful term and an approach to looking at processes and products. The present consumer tries hard to preserve the environment and the awareness and responsible attitude has done wonders for each and every sector. The textile sector is not the one to be left behind. Organic, green, Sustainable and Eco friendly, these are some of the terms being used commonly to tap the rapidly growing desire among consumers to buy something that causes as little harm to the environment as possible. If eco is a useful general term for fabrics and fashion made from sustainable production and less polluting manufacturing methods, then organic is a much more stringent description requiring certification to international standards, whereas, sustainability or the ability to sustain, may be defined as development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generation to meet their own needs. The main aim of sustainability is to extract the maximum benefits from products by extending their life, before throwing them away. Sustainability has always targeted the idea of dematerialization, converting the linear path of materials (extraction, use, disposal in landfill) to a circular material flow that reuses materials as much as possible, much like the cycling and reuse of waste in nature. Production of textiles takes a toll on the environment by using vital resources like water, land, oil, and also degrades the environment unless suitably managed in the form of dyeing and printing waste water, boiler fuel etc. And it is hardly only the resources which go into production which are responsible for affecting the environment. The wastage of end product in the form of used textiles or damaged textiles is equally responsible.

Consumers react to changes in fashion both in clothing and household interior designs. Seasonal changes in fashion mean that clothes can become outdated very quickly, and this encourages the replacement and disposal of outdated, yet good quality garments. Consequently, manufacturers will increasingly develop high quantities of low durability clothing in response to a ‘throwaway society’. Economic prosperity also influences this trend, as the production of textiles increases with consumer spending, so does waste production from both the manufacturing and household sectors.

Every manufactured garment is supposed to have an average life span which is considered to be approximately 3-4 years after which the garment is either considered too old or unfit to be used as it loses its suitability for the purpose or it becomes out of fashion. Almost half of the garments we use in daily life are discarded even before they can be considered unsuitable to be used because of various other reasons like fashion, size or fit issues. The

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maximum amount of textile waste comes from household sources as the textile waste generated at pre consumer stage or industrial level are usually utilized in one form of the other e.g., cutting waste from garment industry is shredded and utilized as filling in low cost mattresses. The sheer magnitudes of post consumer textile waste make it necessary to look for ways to recycle or reuse the textiles we throw away as wastage. A report suggests that more than fifty percent of the textiles we discard are recyclable but only twenty five per cent of the same is recycled or reused in some form of the other while the rest goes in domestic waste. Recycling not only saves valuable resources used to create the product but also provides low cost raw material for new products which can be made from the recycled material. But the cost involved in recycling acts as a hindrance to wide spread adoption of this technique for creating new products and hence other modes of disposal are usually adopted more frequently.

Textile Waste: Any material of textile origin which is not considered suitable for its end user can be considered textile waste. The end user could be a garment manufacturer, upholstery designer, carpet manufacturer or the final consumer. It could be any industrial waste generated while manufacturing of fibers, yarns, fabrics or garments or the household waste created after usage of garments or textile material by end consumers. Almost all of the industrial wastage and a majority of household wastage are recyclable and disposing of the same as wastage should be our last resort.

Textile waste can be classified as either pre-consumer or post-consumer.

Pre Consumer Textile Waste: The waste which consists of by-products of textile, yarn, fabric or garment production and the one which is generated in the textile supply chain prior to reaching the consumers is considered pre consumer textile waste. This wastage has various usages as raw material in automotive industry, furniture, mattresses, home furnishings, paper and other related industries.

Post Consumer Textile Waste: The textile waste generated at various levels after usage of the finished product by end consumer and could be any clothing or household article which has been discarded or not in use for any reason like being worn out, damaged or outgrown are considered as post consumer textile waste. The majority of this waste comes at household level hence its management is an issue as industrial waste is easy to manage in comparison to household waste.

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RECYCLING / SUSTAINABILITY MANAGEMENT OF TEXTILE WASTE Textile waste can be managed in a variety of ways quite successfully so that the usage of our resources can be minimized. The main methods used for handling of textile waste are: 1. Reuse 2. Recycle 3. Reclaimed fibers and fabrics Reuse: Reusing an item for another purpose instead of the one for which it was produced and initially utilized is a very effective method of textile waste management. Reusing a textile product is always advisable in place of discarding it as it helps save the precious resources. Reuse could be conventional where an item is used for the same purpose as it was initially intended but by a different user or it could be new life reuse where the textile product is utilized for some new purpose. This is an efficient manner to avoid throwing or dumping products in waste stream. Conventional reuse can be seen in distribution of used clothing items through charity organizations. Some supermarkets also launched schemes of purchasing old clothing items from customers and giving the customers relevant discount on new purchases. The used clothing items were further sorted, cleaned and redistributed through charity shops especially during winter season. As per an estimate, over seventy per cent of world’s population uses second hand clothing making it easy to reuse clothing items which are fit to be used as is. As for the rest like the ones which are damaged or torn, and are not wearable, they can be utilized as rags, cleaning clothes, mats etc. at home or industrial level. Reuse of textile material reduces air and noise pollution by saving the raw material resources and processes required for making new items, and saves money on purchase as well as disposal of textile products. Second hand clothing market reuses the largest amount of post consumer textiles.

a new set of curtains. This process is least expensive and with minimum effect on the environment and is called closed loop recycling.

Recycling of post consumer textile waste has various advantages as it requires less energy and minimum carbon dioxides emissions as compared to any other type of processing. Recycling of synthetic fabric products result in savings in terms of petroleum, energy and reduction in emission of green house gases. This is also more relevant as synthetic textile products are mostly non-biodegradable hence considerable reduction on environment load is achieved. There are various processes used for recycling of post consumer textile waste. Mainly this waste is treated by breaking down the fabric to fiber stage by cutting, shredding, carding and other mechanical processes.

This fiber is then used to create an entirely new product.

Shoddy is the term used mainly for recycled wool or knitted products and utilized to create low quality blankets and mats, felt fabric or filling mattresses etc. The biodegradable and absorbent cotton fabric can be recycled to make rags, wiping cloth, napkins or foot mats and can also be used to produce new high quality paper thus reducing need of cellulose from wood to create paper. The embroidered or zari patches from old sarees have been traditionally used to create quilts, cushion covers and are still in demand for their aesthetic and rustic appeal and can be a source of income as well. One of the major challenges is to find a market for the recycled products as most of the recycling of post consumer textile waste is done at household level, but today, there are many stores promoting sale of recycled products as an environment friendly gesture.

Recycle: Recycling is the process by which the material is taken out of a product which has been used up to desired level and this raw material s then utilized to create an entirely new product. As per report of an Environment Protection Agency, ninety seven per cent of the post consumer textile waste is recyclable. Thus if we take a curtain which we are no longer using and utilize the fabric to create a quilt cover, or foot mats, we are recycling the textile material.

The original product acts as a raw material here thus helping in reducing the requirement of energy and other resources or fresh raw material for production of new item.

It is possible to recycle both natural as well as man-made textiles. It is also possible to recycle a product and creating a similar product as original, intended for same use e.g. re-dying and painting some faded curtains to create

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Home Linen made from recycled textile waste

On a commercial level, recycling involves collection of material from various sources, mainly as donation from individuals, through buy back schemes launched periodically by departmental stores like Big Bazaar, or through door-to-door collection which is quite prevalent in India.

Panipat city has a cluster of some 200 firms involved in recycling clothes into yarn and creating various products like blankets, rugs, mats, cushions covers, throws, top sheets etc. But this industry is fast receding due to threat

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March 2019

RECYCLING / SUSTAINABILITY from cheap Chinese cloth flooding the markets which is quite a bad news for environment.

Bags made from recycled textile waste Purchasing recycled fabric completes the loop. Recycling can be done in basically three manners.

1.Thermal Recycling involves using the waste for recovering heat energy which is generated by incinerating the waste material so the thermal energy can be utilized. Though this is a very easy method, it does not actually recycle the resources and only utilizes thermal energy and should be practiced only for that waste which is non recyclable.

2. Material Recycling involves recovering of raw material from the waste and utilizing the raw material to create new products. The latest development in this field is the production of polyester fiber from PET bottles. The recovery of polymers is done to reduce the requirement of raw material for preparing polyester fabric. As certain impurities remain in the degraded polymer solution, at times very bright and clear fabric colours are hard to obtain.

3. Chemical Recycling is done by the process of recovering the monomers from the waste fiber by the process of polymer decomposition and in this process, the impurities can easily be removed and the quality can be similar to virgin polyester monomers. yy Reclaimed Fibers and Fabrics: Reclaiming fibers is a complicated and expensive process and involves mechanical breaking down of fabric till fiber stage. The fabric waste is treated through various means like cutting, rotating in a drum at high speed and breaking down the fabric through pins on these drums and other various processes to breakdown the fabric to its basic unit of fiber. The natural fiber products are mainly reclaimed through this process and can be easily used in non woven fabric preparation or for blending purpose as in the case of wool fibers as the fiber size becomes relatively small in this process and is not suitable for weaving purpose.

The man- made fibers are processed through formation of granules by melting process though this is quite similar to material recycling process.

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Reclaimed fibers can be made from a wide variety of textile waste and the quality of the end product as well as the process required for its manufacturing depends on the type of waste. If the fabric used for reclaiming was of single fiber content, comparatively better quality reclaimed fibers can be obtained while in the case of blended fabrics, it is difficult to maintain quality and these fibers are mainly used for preparing non woven or low quality fabrics. Yarns made from reclaimed fibers are also grey or of dark colour which are not much suitable for use as garments or household textiles.

It is an encouraging trend that the world is becoming aware of the waste being generated by our various consumption patterns and consciously taking steps to prevent wastage at various stages. The designers, business organizations as well as nonprofit organizations are coming forward with various ways to tackle the issue of waste management to create sustainable environment for development. The awareness created has also motivated consumers to come forward and contribute in this field and the current trend of recycle and reuse is a welcome step for our environment.

Reference: • www.texwaste”net\wasteguide waste - management & history types of waste.htm • Eisele D. (1996), ‘Reclaimed fibres. Characteristics. Background,’ Melliand Textilberichte, 77, 4, 199–202.

• Mägel M., Mägel M., Bieber B. (1993), ‘First research results to define a number of selected textile-physical parameters of reclaimed fibres,’ Kolloquium Reissfaser ’93, Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. Chemnitz.

• Fischer H., Rettig D., Harig H. (1999), ‘Image processing to measure the length distribution of reclaimed fibres,’ Melliand Textilberichte, 80, 358–360.

• Bohnhoff A., Petershans J. (2001), ‘Sorting carpets noncentrally,’ 28th Aachen Textile Conference, Aachen, D 28– 29 November, DWI Reports, 125 (2002), 242–252.

• Anon. (2001), ‘Infinity and beyond. Carpet recycling,’ International Carpet Bulletin – (ICB) March, 8–10.

PRERNA KAPILA | B.S. DHILLON KRISHI VIGYAN KENDRA, AMRITSAR

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MARKET REPORT

FLAME RETARDANT APPAREL MARKET FORECAST, TREND ANALYSIS & COMPETITION TRACKING GLOBAL MARKET INSIGHTS 2018 TO 2027 Notable Developments in the Flame Retardant Apparel Market • Lakeland Industries, Inc., a U.S.-based manufacturer of protective clothing, recently announced its collaboration with Amazon.com for sales and distribution of its products, which is a part of company’s e-commerce strategy.

• National Safety Apparel, another player in the flame retardant apparel market, recently announced that it is expanding its USA-based safety clothing manufacturing capabilities by acquiring a Chicago-based flame resistant (FR) clothing manufacturer – Rubin Brothers – and its brand Union Line™.

• A European stakeholder in the flame retardant apparel market – Ansell Protective Solutions AB -- partnered with Shigematsu Works Co. Ltd (STS) – a Japanese personal protection equipment company to cover the marketing, distribution & after-sales service and maintenance of Ansell’s products in Japan.

• Carrington Textiles Ltd., a U.K.-based player in the flame retardant apparel market, announced the launch of a stretch fabric – the Flameflex 275 – for flame retardant apparels. The company declared that the use of elastolefin fibers for the inclusion of polyester in the stretch fabric improves abrasion resistance and strength of flame retardant apparels. Furthermore, the company also stated that the fabric meets accreditations EN11611, EN11612 and EN14116 and can withstand temperatures up to 75 degrees.

dated by occupational safety organizations across the world. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration has developed regulations, such as 29 CFR1910.269, that mandate employers to provide flame retardant apparels or clothing to employees that are exposed to the hazards of flames or electric arcs in the work premises.

Worker safety regulations are also being implemented strictly in developing countries, which has led to a spurt in flame retardant apparel sales in recent years. These macro trends are likely to influence flame retardant apparel market in the future.

Stringent Quality Standards and Certification Requirements for Flame Retardant Apparels Influence Pricing Taking into consideration the importance of safety features of flame retardant apparels, governing bodies have developed high quality standards for personal protective equipment to ensure wearer safety. Manufacturers in the flame retardant apparel market need to comply with regulatory requirements before marketing and selling their products.

Tier I and II Companies Hold over 80% Market Share The flame retardant apparel market remains highl consolidated with tier I and tier II companies accounting for nearly 30-40% and 40-50% revenue share respectively.

Large-scale and vertically integrated companies in the flame retardant apparel market continue to have a competitive edge owing to easy accessibility to raw materials.

Furthermore, by diversifying their product range through increased investments in the R&D facilities, leading companies hold sway over the flame retardant apparel market.

Workers’ Safety Regulations on Personal Protective Equipment Drive Growth of the Flame Retardant Apparel Market Use of personal protective equipment in high-risk industries that can pose serious harm to workers’ health is man-

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For example, the European Commission recently introduced the EU Regulation 2016/425 concerning the quality of personal protection equipment. The NFPA 2113 standards established by the National Fire Protection Association define the safety requirements associated with the selection, care, use, and maintenance of flame-resistant garments including flame retardant apparels.

Complying with evolving legal regulations may influence

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MARKET REPORT market players to modify their manufacturing strategies, which is one of the leading factors to impact the production cost of flame retardant apparels. Furthermore, tedious certification and approval procedures make a huge impact on the pricing, which adds to the manufacturing challenges for stakeholders in the flame retardant apparel market.

Manufacturers Introduce Flame Retardant Apparels to Suit Women’s Build Gender diversity is becoming reality across various industries as women are foraying into industries such as oil & gas, chemical, and mining industry. Perpetually increasing percentage of woman employees in these industries has created new opportunities for protective clothing industry.

According to the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE), female representation in top oil & gas companies is around 11%, and this number is likely to increase rapidly in the upcoming years. To gain a competitive edge in the market, flame retardant apparel manufacturers are focusing on enhancing functionality, without compromising on the aesthetics.

Favorable Macroeconomic Factors Induce Momentum in the Market Flame retardant apparels are among the most important and most commonly used personal protective equipment across a wide range of industries. Flame retardant apparels find applications in a range of industries, including but not limited to, oil & gas, building & construction, electronics & electric power generation, automotive, and chemical industry. The broader developments in these industries has a significant impact on the fortunes of flame retard-

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ant apparel manufacturers.

The recovery in oil prices, infrastructure investment in Asia Pacific, and relative economic stability in the US have been instrumental in driving business activity, which in turn has had a ripple effect on the flame retardant apparel landscape.

Definition Flame retardant apparels are manufactured using materials, such as woven, non-woven, or knitted clothing, which have been treated chemically to give them self-extinguishing characteristics. However, both, inherent and treated flame retardant apparels are used in several enduser industries, depending on the industrial applications.

Flame retardant apparel is an important type of personal protective equipment used by workers in industries that pose risk of most serious safety hazards, including oil & gas, mining, petrochemical, and electronics & electric power industry.

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MARKET REPORT Market Structure

the flame retardant apparel market.

The Fact.MR report divides the flame retardant apparel market into its five broad sub-segments – regions, product types, apparel types, clothing types, and end-uses.

The comprehensive information featured in the report is obtained at the end of detailed secondary market research and primary market research on the historical and current growth parameters of the flame retardant apparel market. Secondary research on the flame retardant apparel elucidates the historical and current facts and industry-validated information about the flame retardant apparel market. Primary research is conducted after secondary research, where market leaders, including suppliers, manufacturers, distributors, and investors, in the flame retardant apparel market are interviewed.

Based on geographical regions, the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into North America, Latin America, Europe, Japan, Asia Pacific region excluding Japan (APEJ), and the Middle East & Africa (MEA).

Based on the product types of flame retardant apparels, the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into two categories – inherent flame retardant apparels and treated flame retardant apparel. Based on the types of flame retardant apparel, the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into woven flame retardant apparels, non-woven flame retardant apparels, and knitted flame retardant apparels.

According to the clothing types, the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into two categories – durable clothing and disposable clothing. According to the enduses of flame retardant apparel, the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into oil & gas, petrochemical, mining, power, electronic & electrical, automotive & transportation, building & construction, and federal & state departments.

The accuracy and authenticity of the qualitative and quantitative information on how the flame retardant apparel market will grow during 2018-2027 is ensured by the unique research methodology followed by Fact.MR analysts.

Research Methodology By following this unique research methodology, analysts can reach conclusions associated with the growth prospects of the market throughout the period 2018-2027. A holistic approach of market research methodology is followed by analysts at Fact.MR while carrying out a thorough research on the flame retardant apparel market.

The report provides readers with unique and accurate conclusions about the historic and recent development in

INDIA’S APPAREL EXPORTERS STRUGGLE TO BREAK THROUGH MULTIPLE BARRIERS, EVEN AS EXPORTS APPEAR TO HAVE BOTTOMED OUT Pace of recovery likely to remain muted considering the challenging environment India’s apparel exports are estimated to de-grow by 4-5% in FY2019, following a similar de-growth of ~4% in FY2018 and modest growth rates of 1% and 3% in FY2016 and FY2017 respectively. While a reversal in trend has been witnessed in the recent months with a 14% Y-o-Y growth in India’s apparel exports in Q3 FY2019, the growth is overstated considering a sharp decline reported during Q3 FY2018, amid downward revision in export incentives

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under the GST regime. As a result, India’s apparel exports in Q3 FY2019 remained lower than the average quarterly exports during the past five years. Having said that, ICRA expects the trend to have bottomed out and recovery to set in with internal challenges and abrupt pressures subsiding, though the pace of recovery is likely to remain muted considering the challenging environment.

Commenting on the subdued industry trend, Mr. Jayanta

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MARKET REPORT Roy, Senior Vice-President and Group Head, ICRA, says, “The decline in India’s apparel exports in FY2019 so far has been primarily driven by a sharp inexplicable decline witnessed in shipments to the United Arab Emirates (UAE) from July 2017 onwards. Yet, the trend otherwise also has not been encouraging. If the trade with UAE is excluded, India’s apparel exports stood flat (vis-à-vis a 7% decline in India’s overall apparel exports) in 10M FY2019. As this weakness coincides with a time when the global apparel trade has shown signs of positive momentum, it remains a cause of concern.”

As for the global apparel trade, the same expanded for the second consecutive year in CY2018 (refers to Calendar Year) with a Y-o-Y growth of ~3%, following a 2% growth in CY2017 in US$ terms and contractions reported earlier in CY2015 and CY2016. The positive trend during the last two years has been led by the strong recovery in apparel imports by the European Union (EU), which accounts for almost two-fifth of the global apparel trade (including the trade within EU) and reported a growth of 5.8% in CY2018.

Unlike the EU, apparel imports by the United States of America (US) remain muted with a 2% growth in CY2018, though the trend has improved during the past two years.

As per ICRA note, India continues to experience headwinds in the form of intense competitive pressures from nations having a cost advantage over India, which seem to be constraining the overall momentum of the apparel export sector of India.

“While China – the world’s largest apparel manufacturer and exporter, continues to shed market share in the global trade, India has not been able to capitalise on the opportunity. Instead, a large chunk has been garnered by Bangladesh and Vietnam, the second and the third largest apparel exporting nations globally. While Bangladesh has been the key beneficiary in the EU, Vietnam has maintained growth in its stronghold market of the US.”, adds Roy. The concerns are heightened by the developments in the international trade including allegations of the US against certain export subsidy schemes in India as well as progress on certain large free trade agreements (FTA) which can materially alter the global trade dynamics. The most prominent amongst these is the Comprehensive and Progressive Trans Pacific Partnership (CP TPP), which is the third largest free trade area in the world by GDP. By mid-January 2019, the agreement had entered into force

between seven of the eleven nations. Even though there is some respite for India considering that the leading apparel importing regions are not yet a part of the CP TPP, any incremental developments on this front could prove to be a potential threat as it could considerably strengthen Vietnam’s competitiveness. Another FTA being closely watched is the EU-Vietnam FTA. Conclusion of the FTA can weaken India’s competitive positioning in one of the key apparel markets, accounting for ~37% of India’s apparel exports in CY2018. This can be corroborated from the fact that Bangladesh, which enjoys a duty-free access to the EU market since 2001 under the Generalised Scheme of Preferences, has been able to expand its market share in EU from less than 7% in 2001 to ~20% at present, while India has been able to barely maintain its share at ~6-7%.

ICRA research also notes that a sample of large, listed, domestic as well as export-focused garment-manufacturing companies has continued to perform well, reporting a 13% (YoY) growth in Q3 FY2019, following the similar average growth rate during the previous four quarters.

ICRA believes that presence in the niche and value-added product segments, together with access to an established client base has helped export-based companies to maintain revenue growth, in contrast to the broad industry trend. This, together with a revival in domestic demand, particularly in metros and tier-I markets where the larger listed players are predominantly present, translated into a healthy growth for ICRA’s sample during the current financial year. Besides, favourable currency movement and healthy growth in revenues facilitated an improvement in margins in the recent quarters, given the operating leverage inherent in the operations. Supported by better margins, the aggregate interest cover for ICRA’s sample also improved, averaging ~5.7 times in 9M FY2019 vis-a-vis ~5.0 times in 9M FY2018.

Going forward, steps taken by the Government of India to address the challenges, will remain crucial for a broadbased recovery across the sector. This also remains critical for the domestic apparel exporters to capitalise on the revived global apparel trade as well as the continuing loss of market share by China, which opens up a lucrative opportunity for key players such as India, Vietnam and Bangladesh.

For further information, please contact: Basic textiles export declines sharply in January

BY ICRA

“ If you really want to be successful, stop worrying about what March 2019

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“

your can get and start focusing on what you can do.

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YARN REPORT

BASIC TEXTILES EXPORT DECLINES SHARPLY IN JANUARY India at an average price of US$2.97 a kg, down US cents 5 from previous month and US cents 20 from a year ago.

China has started importing more cotton yarn from India in volume and value terms. In January, the year on year increase was 51% in US$ terms. China was followed

by Bangladesh with volume and value declining by about 18% over the year. Egypt and Portugal were the other major importers of cotton year, with former recording 14% in-crease and latter falling 47%. 18 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India this January as they had im-ported yarn worth US$3.2 million in the same month last year. However, they were replaced by 10 other countries which imported yarn worth US$0.75 million.

Cotton export slumps in January Cotton exports shipment slumped 43% to 7.9 lakh bales (170 kg each) in January as against 12.4 lakh bales exported in the same month of previous marketing year (201718). In January, cotton shipment value declined sharply by 33% YoY. In terms of unit value realization, the average for January was US cents 81.58 per pound. This implies a jump in unit prices realisation of 8% to average INR125.84 per kg. During the month, domestic spot prices for benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6 averaged US cents 77.17 per pound while global spot benchmark, the Cotlook ‘A’ index averaged US cents 82.44 per pound.

Algeria, South Africa, Slovenia and United Kingdom were among top fastest importers of cotton yarn in January while Syria, Uganda, Ukraine, Iran and United Arab Emirates significantly reduced their imports compared to last year.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports declined sharply by 7% in January, comprising 3.8 million kg of polyester yarn, 1.4 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.3 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports declined 18% in US$ term while viscose yarn exports value increased 7% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports were down 3% during the month.

Polyester spun yarns worth US$9 million were exported to 45 countries at average unit price of US$2.36 a kg, down US cents 20 compared to last month and up US cents 3 from last year. Turkey was the largest importer of

Bangladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton in January, followed by China and Vietnam. Pakistan was the fourth largest importer of Indian cotton during the month.

Spun yarn export down 6% in January on lower price realisation In January, shipment of fibre, spun and filament yarn declined sharply by 24% in US$ terms and 16% in INR terms.

Total shipment during the month were at US$644 million or INR4,509 crore.

Spun yarns shipment totaled 96 million kg (down 6%) worth US$280 million (down 11%) implying an average unit value realization of US$2.91 per kg, down US cents 8 compared to previous month and US cents 17 from a year ago average. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weakened to INR70 this January, which although augurs well for ex-ports but hate to be realised. China was the largest buyer of spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value.

Cotton yarn export was at 79 million kg worth US$233 million (INR1,630 crore), 9.5% down from previous year’s level in US$ terms. 67 countries imported cotton yarn from

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polyester yarn, followed by USA and Egypt.

Viscose yarn worth US$4.9 million or INR34 crore was exported in January at an average price of US$3.40 per kg.

Bangladesh was the top importer worth US$1 million, followed by Belgium and Turkey. USA was the fourth largest importer of viscose yarn during the month.

Blended spun yarns worth US$31 million were exported

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YARN REPORT in January, down 24% YoY. During the month, 6.2 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$16 million while 3.1 million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$8 million.

Egypt, Bangladesh and Turkey, were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Italy.

Shipment of all kinds of filament yarns totaled 51 million kg, valued at US$89 million (both down 23%. YoY)

NITIN MADKAIKAR

Textile Beacon Global Info Services nitin@textilebeacon.com

COTTON REPORT

COTTON SNAPSHOT: FEBRUARY 2019 MCX Co�on Deriva�ves at a Glance Vola�lity Feb-19 0.71% YTD 2019 0.63% Turnover (crs) Feb-19 4,454 YTD 2019 8,427 Avg Volume ('000 bales) Feb-19 4,350 YTD 2019 7,646 Avg OI ('000 bales) Feb-19 1,505 YTD 2019 2,734 Delivery ('000 bales) Feb-19 41 YTD 2019 80 Stocks ('000 bales)

Indian Co�on Balance Sheet 2018-19 Es�mate*

Par�culars Supply Opening Stock Crop/Arrival Imports Total Supply Demand Domes�c Demand Exports Closing Stock

2018-19 (Oct-Jan)

(in lakh b/s)

(in’000 Tons)

(in lakh b/s)

(in '000 Tons)

23 330 27 380

391 5610 459 6460

23 170.32 5.48 198.8

391 2895.44 93.16 3379.6

316 50 14

5372 850 238

174.8 24

2971.6 408

-

-

Source: CAI Report; *Es�mated as on 31 January 2019 st

Indian Co�on Balance Sheet 2018-19 Es�mate*

2018-19 (Oct-Jan)

(in lakh b/s)

(in’000 Tons)

(in lakh b/s)

(in '000 Tons)

23 330 27 380

391 5610 459 6460

23 170.32 5.48 198.8

391 2895.44 93.16 3379.6

316 50 14

5372 850 238

174.8 24

2971.6 408

-

-

Source: CAI Report; *Es�mated as on 31 st January 2019

MCX February Cotton Futures closed the month Rs. 20,080 per bale a decline of 2%. The cotton market turned uninteresting during the month in line with global cotton markets where volumes and prices witnessed a decline. Markets remained uncertain due to the ongoing trade tensions between the US and China impacting international trade.

Lack of buying interests continued to remain in the Indian markets despite strengthening INR and news of short crop from the neighbouring country. Sluggish demand for yarn arising out uncertain global economic and trade conditions seemingly influenced the cotton demand and hence the prices.

New cotton production estimates for 2018-19 by Cotton Association of India reduced estimated cotton production to 33 million bales from the initial estimates of 40m

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As on Feb 28, 2019

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bales. However, it was noteworthy that even reduced industry estimates could not induce buying interests with Indian cotton moving further down by Rs100 per candy (356 lb) following the bearish production data release.

Co�on Price Movemnt* 21500 21300 21100 Co�on (Rs/ Bale)

Par�culars Supply Opening Stock Crop/Arrival Imports Total Supply Demand Domes�c Demand Exports Closing Stock

20900 20700 20500 20300 20100 19900 19700

01 Feb

06 Feb

11 Feb

14 Feb

19 Feb

22 Feb

27 Feb

*MCX near month

By- MCX INDIA

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FABRIC CARE REPORT

FABRIC CARE MARKET REVENUE IS EXPECTED TO SURPASS US$ 151,726.3 MN BY 2027 According to the market report published by Future Market Insights titled ‘Fabric Care Market: Global Industry Analysis 2013-2017 and Opportunity Assessment 20182027,’ the revenue generated from fabric care is estimated to be valued at over US$ 90,658.6 Mn in 2018, which is projected to increase at a CAGR of 5.9% during the forecast period (2018-2027).

Fabric care detergents, a product type segment, is projected to gain significant growth in the global fabric care market owing to the increasing use of liquid fabric care products, rise in the adoption of washing machines in developing countries, frequent launch of new fabric care products that are compatible with various types of washing machines and the ease of use associated with liquid fabric care detergents as compared to soaps, bars and blocks are some of the key factors driving the demand for fabric care products across the globe. Moreover, rapidly growing population, increasing per capita expenditure on household cleaning products, expanding global FMCG industry and the growing trend of hygienic personal care are also among factors that are expected to boost the de-

wide range of FMCG products, thus, nowadays, consumers are not only concerned about buying natural & greenlabel home care, personal care and fabric care products, but are also demanding environment-friendly packaging.

Thus, growing consumer expectations for eco-friendly packaging and consciousness about the detrimental effects of fabric care containers and plastic packaging on the environment are projected to accelerate the growth of the natural fabric care market worldwide. Moreover, the frequent launch of fabric care products that target specific customers, coupled with increasing demand for green products, is creating considerable opportunities in the global fabric care market.

The global fabric care market is segmented on the basis of regions, which include North America, Latin America, Asia Pacific Excluding Japan (APEJ), Europe, Middle East & Africa and Japan. Among all the regions, the Asia Pacific excluding Japan and Europe regions are estimated to have a substantial value share. In terms of value, APEJ is the most attractive region in the global fabric care market, and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.9% over the forecast period. In the global fabric care market, the region is expected to gain 278 BPS during the forecast period.

On the basis of product type, the fabric care market is segmented into fabric detergents, fabric softeners/enhancers, stain removers/bleach and other fabric care products. In 2018, the fabric detergents segment accounted for the highest revenue share of 48.7% in the global fabric care.

Key Players in the Global Fabric Care Market

mand for fabric care products during the forecast period.

Companies in the fabric care market are adopting various marketing strategies to increase their market share, revenue, penetration and customer base. For instance, various players offer combo deals, which helps boost their sales & generate profits, product innovation to create loyalty to the brand and the introduction of various products in same product category for different user groups are some of the factors contributing to the global growth of the fabric care market. Moreover, packaging plays an important role in protecting and extending the shelf life of a

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Detailed profiles of companies are also included in the global fabric care market report to evaluate their performance, key product offerings and recent developments.

Some of the key players profiled in the global fabric care market study include Alicorp S.A.A.; S.C. Johnson & Son Inc.; Reckitt Benckiser Group PLC; LG Household & Health Care Ltd.; Golrang Industrial Group; Wings Corporation; Whealthfields Lohmann Guangzhou Ltd.; RSPL Limited; Church & Dwight Co., Inc.; Lion Corporation; Nice Group Co., Ltd.; Kao Corporation; Fabrica de Jabon La Corona; SA de CV; Henkel AG & Co. KGaA; Unilever PLC; Guangzhou Blue Moon Industry Co., Ltd.; Procter & Gamble Co.; Amway Corporation; Guangzhou Liby Enterprise Group Co., Ltd. and others.

By Future Market Insights

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SURAT REPORT Holi and General Elections : Surat textile industry to face labour shortage The Production in Surat-based synthetic textile industry will remain down upto three months starting from mid March. As thousands of migrant workers head home for festival of Holi, the shortage of workers in textile industry becomes a major worry. The industry will take a production hit of more than 30% due to shortage of manpower.

Beside Holi, this year the upcoming general elections has its repercussions on the industry. Workers who usually go on leave for Holi tend to return by last week of March or first week of April. However, according to textile industry sources, many of the workers are not likely to return before May leading to acute labour shortage.

The total workforce employed by fabric manufacturing, weaving and processing units in the textile industry in Surat stands at around eight lakh., most of which hail from states like Orissa, Bihar, UP and Maharasthra, among others, are on an exodus to their homes. “The fabrics production is already down by 30 per cent. More than 2 lakh workers have gone on leave for Holi. But this year is different. With general elections coming up, workers have hinted they won’t return before May since they want to stay back for voting,” said Sameerbhai, a Powerloom unit owner in Udhna Industrial area of the city.

Sources said, already 20-30 per cent of labourers have left while more are expected to leave in the coming days. The labour shortage also comes at a time when the industry, which markets fabric as well as ready made garments including sarees and dress materials, is in the middle of heavy orders for the upcoming marriageseason. By the time of elections, industry players fear almost 50 per cent workers to be on leave. Apart from voting in elections, the workforce is also likely to extend their leaves for the wedding season which falls in the month of April-May in their respective home states.

Textile minister Smriti Irani appeals to take advantage of fashion forecasting lab “The government has launched the industry’s first fashion forecasting lab service with the help of NIFT in New Delhi.

This service is based on the premise that fashion is a dynamic industry which depends on seasonal trends and forecast. As Surat is a hub of saree, the entrepreneurs of the city should get benefit of this lab to create an indigenous fashion forecasting service.” Textile minister Smriti Irani appeals textile community after inauguration of the Rs 300 crore Karanj Textile Park here on last week.

of the new centre is to find Indian fashion trends. With the help of fashion forecasting center service, Surti textile entrepreneurs could contribute hugely to such initiative under VisionNXT. The centre will use data generated from the industry, retailers and its own alumni and analyse them using artificial intelligence platform to identify trends across the country.

Irani also appreciated the environment concerns at the textile parks in South Gujarat where the country’s first zero liquid dicahrge (ZLD) has been set up at the Gujarat Eco Textile Park (GETP) at Palsana under the Integrated Power Development Scheme (IPDS) scheme of the Central Government. The waste water from CETP plant in Palsana will be recycled through the ZLD plant project where more than 92% of the quantity will be recycled and sent to park members for process requirement.

New scheme for knitwear sector will enhance production and employment The Textile Ministry has launched a comprehensive Scheme for the development of the knitwear sector under PowerTex India. The scheme will help to enhance production in Surat based warp knitting sector. With the installed capacity of over 1,000 machines, Surat has emerged as a warp knitting sector. The annual turnover of warp knitting sector in the city is pegged at Rs1,000 crore.

According to Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC), knitted fabrics contribute 27% of the total fabric production in the country and 15% of them are exported. The New scheme for knitting and knitwear sector would mostly benefit MSME, which comes under decentralized sector and that it would give a major fillip to employment generation in the kitting sector in the country.

SRTEPC chairman Narain Aggarwal said, The objective of the scheme is to set up new service centres on PPP model by industry associations, modernization and upgradation of existing power loom service centres. It would also help group workshed scheme, yarn bank, common facility centre, Pradhan Mantri credit scheme etc. The MSME units involved in knitting sector in Surat and across the country will be benefited.

The yarn bank scheme for knitting and knitwear units will provide an interest-free corpus fund of a maximum of up to Rs 2 crore. The Bank would enable small knitting and knitwear units to purchase the yarn at wholesale rate and in large quanitites. The warp knitted fabrics are extensively used for sportswear, lingerie, shoes, car seat covers and mattresses along with technical textiles like automobile filtration, lining and pocketing mesh.

Irani said, Till now, the textile industry was dependent on the international fashion trend forecasting. The aim

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TEXTILE PROCESSING

MICROENCAPSULATION IN TEXTILE FINISHING ABSTRACT The textile roots of microencapsulation technology were introduced as were the wide range of applications in food and other business sectors. In microencapsulation in general the number of commercial applications in the textile industry continues to grow particularly in the textile industries of Western Europe, Japan and North America.

The move by the more developed countries into textiles with new properties and added value, into medical textile and technical textiles for example has encouraged the industry to use microencapsulation processes as a means of imparting finishes and properties on textiles which were not possible or cost-effective using other technology. Textile manufacturers are demonstrating increasing interest in the application of durable fragrances to textile as well as skin softeners. Other potential applications include, insect repellents, dyes, vitamins, antimicrobials, phase change materials and in specific medical applications, antibiotics, hormones and other drugs. Examples of each technology are described. A short summary of a new microencapsulation technology with roots in the textile industry, is provided.

ganic solvents. yy Objectives of Encapsulation Encapsulation of active ingredients for a wide range of industries is carried out for one or more of the following purposes: Rendering liquids into powders to prevent clumping and improve mixing.

Protecting active ingredients from oxidation, heat, acidity, alkalinity, moisture or evaporation.

Preventing ingredients from interacting with other compounds in the system, this may result in degradation or polymerization.

Masking the taste of unpleasant flavors or odors.

Improving the handling of an ingredient before processing.

Release active chemicals in a controlled or targeted fashion.

Protecting workers or end users from exposure to hazardous substances. yy Microcapsules Structure

INTRODUCTION: yy Microencapsulation

Microcapsule consists of two parts, viz. the core and the wall material. The typical range of capsule content is 70 to 99% nucleus material by weight. This corresponds to a capsule wall thickness of about 0.1-200um Different shapes of micro capsules is shown in

Small is better” would be an appropriate slogan for the microencapsulation, a process in which tiny particles or droplets are surrounded by a coating to give small capsules with many useful properties. The material inside the microcapsule is referred to as the core, internal phase or fill, whereas the wall is sometimes called a shell, coating or membrane. Most microcapsules have diameters of few micrometres.

The content of capsules can be made available by mechanical rupture of the capsule wall, by causing its disintegration by electrical or mechanical means or by leaching action carried out in an appropriate liquid environment.

Microcapsules range in diameter from 1 to 1000 um; capsules greater than 1000 um can be called microcapsules and those smaller than 1 um are called nanocapsules. yy CHARACTERISTICS

The reasons for microencapsulation are countless. In some cases, the core must be separated from its surroudings, as in isolating vitamins from the deteriorating effects of oxygen, retarding evaporation of a volatile core, improving the handling properties of a sticky material, or isolating a reactive core from chemical attack. In other cases the objective is not to separate the core completely but to control the rate at which it leaves the microcapsules as in the controlled release of drugs or pesticides.

Manufacturing costs are based on coating material, solvent, equipment and labor. Coating-material prices vary greatly, and as a rule, the cheapest acceptable material is used. Coatings that can be applied without solvent or water are preferred. Enviromental and safety regulations greatly increase the cost of process that use volatile or-

The following are the characteristics of a microcapsule:

KEYWORDS: Microencapsulation; Textiles; Fragrance; Phase-change materials.

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• Size and size distribution Low size increases the mechanical strength as also ease of application

• Loading fraction This is the weight ratio of core to wall of the microcapsule, the higher is this ratio the better is the production efficiency but poorer would be the stability.

• Release properties Rate of release from microcapsules depends largely on the structure of the polymer wall, which in turn is influ-

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TEXTILE PROCESSING enced by the conditions employed in the preparation.

Wall characteristics like crystallinity, cross-link density and porosity play a big role in determining the release rate. As the crystallinity and cross-link density of the wall increases, the release rate reduces substantially.

• Thermal stability The microcapsule during its formation and application should be stable at higher temperatures.

APPLICATION OF MICROCAPSULES IN TEXTILES The move by move developed consumer demands for textiles with new characteristics and added value into medical and technical fields has encouraged the industry to use microencapsulation processes as a means of imparting finishes and properties to fabrics which were not possible or cost-effective using other technology. Textile manufacturers are demonstrating increasing interest in the application of durable fragrances to textile as well as skin softeners; other potential application includes insect repellents, dyes, antimicrobials, phase change materials. yy Micro-Encapsulation In Finishing Micro-encapsulation of Flame Retardants Textile coating with polyurethane resin on cotton or cotton-polyester fabrics provides the fabrics, properties such as abrasion resistance, water repellency, etc. which has application in many fields such as transportation industry, garments, furniture, but these polyurethane coatings have a bad flame retardancy. Microencapsules of di-ammonium hydrogen phosphate with polyurethane shell has been evaluated as fire retardant intumescent agent in a commercial polyurethane coating for textiles. This is achieved by melt spinning and interfacial polymerization. New approaches are developed at Gemtex for flame retarding textiles. Micro-encapsulation of phosphates as intumescent additives, PU/clay hybrid as FR coating, PA-6/clay nanocomposite as FR yarn and blends of wool with high performance Fibres as heat and fire resistant barriers are investigated.4 yy Micro-encapsulation in Medical Application Micro-encapsulation has also found use in aromatherapy.

Aromatherapy is the practice of applying and inhaling essential oils from plants as a physical and emotional boost to the body. An aromatherapy product manufactured

by Kanebo is marketed under the trade name Esprit de Fleurs. Agatex has developed a technology to microencapsulate functional oils like the vitamins and Aloe Vera plant extract and use in textile finishing. It gives energetic balance to human body and also makes the fabric soft and comfortable. Number of companies has developed a technology of microencapsulating liposomes on the textile substrate which would yield controlled and targeted release of anti-cancer and anti-fungal drugs. yy Micro-encapsulation of Anti-microbial agents Anti-microbial agents are incorporated with the textile

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material to prevent the transmission of pathogenic microorganisms. In addition to this, antimicrobial finishes should be capable of counter attacking the development of odour from the bacterial decomposition of perspiration in clothing. Yeast cells containing biocide or insecticide have been applied to cotton, cotton wool and wool fabric. Fabrics with biocide filled yeast have been successfully tested as per AATCC Test method 100, a microbial challenge test. Mothproof agents have also been encapsulated in yeast and applied to wool fabric is also shown in figure.2.

Figure.2. SEM of Wool, Yeast cells containing insecticide

yy Micro-encapsulation of fragrance Our sense of smell is the strongest of our 5 senses; it is the one sense which does not rest even when we sleep. When our nose detects a change in the atmosphere around us it draws on our brains a vast memory bank to identify that change. Once identified we may be excited, soothed, relaxed, comforted, refreshed, revitalised or even alarmed.

Utilising the sense of smell by building a fragrance into a textile or garment can stimulate a powerful and emotive sense. Fragrances can range from fine fragrances, florals, fruits, and malodour counteractants until aromatherapy. yy Body odour, Freshness Technology Fragrances for textiles When we sweat our body chemicals mix with bacteria, which produce enzymes. It is these enzymes, which lead to the formation of body odour. Freshness Technology fragrances are fragrances that smells good and actively tackles body odours.Quest offers a number of different patented technological routes to achieve an extra freshness in textiles. Each of these routes, whilst working on different principles, will actively tackle any bad smells rather than just masking them. All their freshness technology fragrances are created using only the normal perfumery ingredients conforming to the highest safety standards as set out in the fragrance regulatory bodies

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TEXTILE PROCESSING such as IFRA and RIFM. Expert panels and clinical and consumer testing facilities are in place to validate the freshness achieved with the use of their freshness Technology Fragrances. yy Skincare Active Ingredients for Fabrics Adding skin benefits to a textile is achievable by applying encapsulated moisturisers, essential oils, certain vitamins and even insect repellent. The use of encapsulated cosmetic oils is especially recommended to add skin benefits to hosiery, nightwear and sports wear. Aleo Vera has been known for centuries as the medical plant whose properties contain a wide range of healing benefits.Today the extract from the Aloe plant is a population constituent of cosmetic preparations. Throughout the world today there are some 600-700 different varieties of aloe. The most widely used in cosmetic industry is Aleo Barbadensis. Its common names are First aid plant or Medicine plant.

The plant grows wild in Barbados, Jamaica, Puerto Rica, in the southern USA, Central America, Mediterranean countries, India and other tropical and sub tropical regions.

Aloe Vera gel is extracted from the inner tubular leaf cells of the Aloe Vera leafs. The main constituents of Aloe Vera are amino sugars, amino acids, enzymes, inorganic salts, monosaccharides, mucopolysaccharides, sterols, triterpenoids and vitamins. The use of Aloe Vera in cosmetics is especially recommended because of its positive effects on skin.

Benefits of Aloe Vera: • Bacteriostatic effect • Anti inflammatory effect • Moisturising effect • Regenerate and promotes suppleness of the skin • Protects, soothes and cares for the skin • Beneficial effect on the blood circulation

Insect repellents Menthoglycol is a natural insect repellent active ingredient, derived from lemon eucalyptus, which is a natural and renewable source. Testing of Menthoglycol with a moderately aggressive cage population of Aedes aegypti mosquitoes resulted in no bites up to at least 4 hours. This indicates that the product has unusual repellency Fabrics treated three months previous with microencapsulated menthol glycol completely repelled foraging mosquitoes in nature, in exposure conducted over a four hour period.

This finding is consistent with those obtained with the same fabric at about one week after its treatment with the test material. The result indicates that mentholglycol persisted on the fabric for the three-month storage period. Concordant with this view, rubbing of the fabric released the menthol glycol.

In summary the outcome of this test certainly suggests

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that micro encapsulation may greatly extend the effective lifespan of the mentholglycol insect repellent.

Commercial opportunities Imagine the functionality of body odour counteractancy coupled with your choice of a smell specially designed to reinforce your concept to the consumer. All the freshness technology fragrances are bespoke and are created by perfumers to echo the emotional benefits of your brand.

Perhaps you or your customer may wish to have a signature fragrance developed specifically for your product range. Fragrance in a product or promotion leads to an improvement of sales. As example, post cards were recently used in a promotion for a new oral hygiene product. The promotion used a redemption or discount voucher. A typical increase in sales would be between 0.8 & 2 percent. By using the product fragrance on the promotional material this was increase to 8 percent. The second example is a promotion for Radion detergent for Lever Brothers, where the product fragrance was used on promotional material; sales were raised by 13 percent. There are several novelty markets for fragrance usage; just one example is the children’s markets. 30 % of women are unable to wear hosiery due to the nature of the garment which dries their skin. Applying micro-encapsulated Aloe Vera to the hosiery during the wet processing of manufacture overcomes this problem and opens up a potentially enormous new market. One of Coalescence’s clients is currently using in excess of 1 tonne of encapsulated Aloe Vera per month just for this application.

Micro-encapsulation leads to a lot of opportunities which could result in an increase of sales and market share. The challenge to compete in the high competitive textile market can be accomplished by diversification and by obtaining a first mover advantage in the development and the commercialisation of new innovative textiles with a real and functional added value to the customer.

Most frequently used wall materials are urea formaldehyde and various forms of gelatin in micro-encapsulation of fragrance. The capsule size should be small conventionally. Fragrant fibrous materials have also been produced by Kanebo that consist of perfumes bound to a variety of fibres using a low temperature reactive organopolysiloxane resin. As silicone binders are used, no unpleasant odours of binders interfere with the desired fragrance. Proctor & Gamble has prepared microcapsules using urea formaldehyde as the shell material containing perfumes or deodorant material. Welbeck Fabrics introduced scented fabrics CX series. These fabrics have wide range of scents and also lasting upto 40 washing cycles.

Microcapsules has been developed and manufactured by RT Dodge for several years. The company also claimed that microcapsules survive upto 8 – 20 washing cycles and are strong to conventional tumble-dryers. Celessence International has produced microcapsules for textiles and launched in the market under the trade name Celessence

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TEXTILE PROCESSING TXT capsule systems which can be applied by conventional textile application methods to a wide variety of textile substrates. The product claim encapsulation of skin moisturizers, vitamins and insect repellents as well as fragrances which can last upto 30 laundering cycles. Celessence TXT capsule systems comprise aqueous dispersions of encapsulates, which can be applied by pad, exhaustion or hydroextraction technique to a wide variety of textile substrate. Durability to washing and handle may be further improved by incorporating suitable formaldehydefree binders and softeners.

The Matsui Shikiso Chemicals Company has developed a technique of fixing fragrance to fabric using microcapsules. The fabric is first treated with a nitrogenous cationic compound and the microcapsule wall is manufactured to adhere to this layer. The capsules are obtained by using interfacial or in-situ polymerization. These capsules range in size from 0.1-100 m. Typical compounds encapsulated include perfumes such as musk, civet, ambergris, pine and citrus oils. LJ Specialities has developed microencapsulated fragrance products for textiles.

The mechanism of aroma releasing depends on the light abrasion and can be applied using conventional methods.

Eldorado International Company has produced fabrics that contain encapsulated aromas. The capsule breaks on abrasion caused by the wearer. Haketal has developed a technology of using beta cyclodextrin as a wall material.

Beta Cyclodextrin was grafted onto cellulose fibres using N-methylol acrylamide. Hong and Park prepared microcapsules using melamine-formaldehyde systems containing migrin oil. They also suggested poly(L-lactide) as a wall material to encapsulate fragrance for textiles. Poly(L-lactide) micocapsules containing fragrances were prepared by interfactial precipitation method. Adding skin benefits to a textile is achievable by applying encapsulated moisturizers, essential oils, certain vitamins and even insect repellent products. For sportswear it is even possible to use skin-cooling products.

So imagine being able to capture virtually any fragrance and harness it to your benefit, and you will realise that nothing is as emotive as the sense of smell. It is a challenging and an exciting time for the textile industry. Micro encapsulation is a finish with an added value, which could expand market territories or create niches and lead to an improved market share. We also offer the possibility for brands to develop an exclusive signature fragrance to increase their recognition through the marketplace.

MICROENCAPSULATION: THE FUTURE The ideal feature for most textile applications using microcapsules would be a system that is easy to apply, does not affect the existing textile properties and has a shelflife on a garment that allows normal fabric-care processes to take place.Currently, although capsules can survive 25– 30 wash cycles, conventional ironing and other heat-input processes such as tumble-drying can cause a dramatic

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reduction in the desired effect. The microencapsulation industry must take more notice of the possibilities within the textile industry and specifically design microcapsules that overcome these problems.

For the future, the consumers desire that novel and unique effects will always be present. But more importantly, in an ever-increasing desire for convenience, the consumer will require that fabric properties are inherent in the garment, e.g. fresh odour and softness. Consumers will expect these properties to last the lifetime of the garment, and not involve routine intervention in the form of the never-ending addition of washing aids and fabric conditioners. Microencapsulation may deliver these longterm goals. The desire for a healthier and more productive lifestyle will continue to generate a market for textiles that promote “well-being”. Textiles that “interact” with the consumer, reducing stress, promoting comfort and relaxation, are possible through active delivery from microcapsules. In the last decade the textile industries have concentrated on developing performance fabrics with added value for sports and outdoor application, as well as novel medical textiles.

Microencapsulation can play a part in this continued development, for example by allowing sensing chemicals to be attached to sports clothing and medical products; these will be able to warn of damage or hazard to the wearer. Systems can also be developed that deliver measured dosages of chemicals to combat muscle pain or other more serious injuries. The potential applications of microencapsulation in textiles are as wide as the imagination of textile designers and manufacturers. Early success for some companies in producing microencapsulated finishes for textiles have come about from collaboration and adaptation of technology from other industrial sectors.

REFRENCES: 1. CHEMICAL FINISHING OF TEXTILES- H.SCHINDLER 2. TEXTILE FINISHING- MARS,ATLAS & WOODING 3. COLOURAGE- Mar 2006 4. INDIAN TEXTILE JOURNAL – Feb 2007

PROF. TANVEER MALIK, PROF. AJAY JOSHI AND PROF T. K. SINHA Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, indore

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POST EVENT REPORT

TEXTILE 4.0 – SECOND EDITION ; OVERWHELMING REPONSES FOR TAI, MUMBAI UNIT CONFERENCE TEXTILE 4.0 The Second Edition International Conference gets an overwhelming response from Indian Textile & Garment industry, same as the First Edition.

The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit has the distinction of organising the international conferences on the emerging areas of Textile Trade and industry. During March 2018, TAI Mumbai Unit organised an international conference on “Textile 4.0; a first of its kind in Asia and perhaps the second in the world to bring home the concept and its relevance to global competitiveness. During Industry 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0, the technological development were seen by leaps and bounds. The Industrial Revolution 4.0 in fact began in 2007. The new industrial revolution 4.0 is characterised by a confluence of emerging technology breakthroughs, including mobile connectivity, artificial intelligence, Internet of things, next-generation robotics, 3D printing, wearable and genetic engineering, nanotechnology, advanced materials, biotechnology and others. These technologies, combined and connected, will transform manufacturing and production systems with unprecedented speed and scope, impacting business models, economic growth, employment and sustainability. Hence, Industry 4.0 stands for intelligent production and new business models. The aim is on increasing productivity, flexibility and efficiency. Industry 4.0 or I 4.0

is already being implemented in India, though joint ventures & collaborations.

After the successful event of March 2018, there have been queries from different parts of India to organise the Second Edition on the Textile 4.0. Since concepts were discussed in the earlier event, it was thought appropriate to take the Second Edition on the same theme with view to address implementation of it in different segment of textile and apparel value chain. This was the background for this Conference Textile 4.0 - Second Edition. It was organised on 7th February 2019 at Hotel, The Lalit, Andheri (E), Mumbai.

Inauguration function included Mr. Sanjay Jain, Chairman, CITI as Chief Guest, Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, Commissioner for Textiles, Government of Karnataka as Guest of Honour and Mr. Amir Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers P. Ltd as Key Note Speaker. It was graced

by Mr. T. K. Sengupta, National President, TAI, Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI Mumbai Unit, Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI Mumbai Unit, Mr. G. V. Aras, Conference Chairman, Mr. T. K. Chandra, Conference Adviser and Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI Mumbai Unit.

Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI Mumbai Unit, welcomed the Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay Jain, President, CITI, Guest of Honour Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, the Commissioner for Textiles, Government of Karnataka and the Key-Note Speaker, Mr. Amir Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers P.Ltd, Speakers, sponsors and the delegates.

Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman TAI and the Conference Convener briefed the retrospects of the conference held in March 2018 as preamble to the current edition of conference on the topic. He reiterated that the earlier version of our conference was to introduce the subject Textile: 4.0 and its relevance to the enhancement of competitiveness from the global perspectives. It also brought home to address some of the key challenges in terms of gaps, technology upgradation; use of IT enabled tools and robotics.

His retrospects set the tone of the Conference.

Chief Guest, Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, CITI lighting the lamp.

Standing (L to R): Mr. Rahul N. Mehta, Managing Director, Creative Casualwear Pvt. Ltd., Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, Commissioner for Textile Development & Director of Handlooms & Textiles Department, Government of Karnataka, Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), Mr. Amir Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. G. V. Aras, Conference Chairman, Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit.

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Mr. G. V. Aras, Chairman of the Conference briefed the coverage of the deliberations programmed in the current version. He emphasized that the topics are so chosen that the entire supply chain starting from spinning, weaving, knitting garmenting and processing would be deliberated upon in the context of Textile 4.0. He also reiterated that the expert speakers have been requested to collate with the Indian Textile industry with similar case studies of other developed/developing countries.

Mr. Amir Sheikh, in his Key Note Address briefed the context of global competitiveness interalia Textile 4.0. He

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POST EVENT REPORT emphasized that the automation, use of internet, robotics and artificial intelligence are key factors to prudently managing the manufacturing processes to achieve higher productivity and quality of the out puts. There is necessity of synergising the machines with artificial intelligence and as such the production machines should comply with the theology of Industry 4.0 or Textile 4.0.

Dr. M. R. Ravi, Guest of Honour for the event highlighted the importance technological advancement and its interface with the industry and policy makers to achieve the envisaged goals of achieving international norms of productivity and quality.

Mr. Rahul N. Mehta, Managing Director, Creative Casualwear Pvt. Ltd. was honoured with the Industrial Excellence Award. Mr. Mehta has long distinguished career & contribution in the garment industry. His outstanding performance in terms of creativity and professional management in the garment manufacturing is recognised all over the country, he is also a trainer and motivator. The awards were given by the Chief Guest and the Guest of Honour. The entire gathering greeted the awardees with standing ovation and applauds.

Mr. Sanjay Jain, Chief Guest of the function spoke the relevance of the theme of the conference and opined that TAI Mumbai Unit and CITI could jointly organise similar events in different Textile Clusters to promote the Textile 4.0 across the nation.

Mr. Mantri proposed vote of thanks to all the dignitaries and participants for having attended the conference.

Further, he also thanked the sponsors, supporters and all those who have contributed significantly for the success of the event.

Mr. Suresh A. Kotak, Chairman, Kotak & Co. Ltd.receiving The Lifetime Achievement Award by the hands of Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay K. Jain.

TAI Mumbai Unit has set has set a precedent of felicitating every year, the textile professionals for their outstanding contribution and who have achieved land mark in their journey in Textile Industry. Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, Kotak & Co. Ltd was bestowed with the Lifetime Achievement Award. Mr. Kotak contributed to Indian cotton Textile Industry over five decades in various capacities and contributed in the area of formulation of policies significantly.

Mr. Rahul N. Mehta, Managing Director, Creative Casualwear Pvt. Ltd., receiving The Industrial Excellence Award by the hands of Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay K. Jain

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The first Technical Session-I covered the theme - ‘Textile 4.0- Implementation’. During this session, four papers were presented. Mr. Stefan Winter, Product Manager, Karl Meyer Digital Factory, GmbH presented on” KM.ON Karle Meyer Digital Solutions”. He said the IT enabled system developed by Karl Meyer is made up of eight KM.ON solution categories together. The first apps and solutions cover the three areas of management, maintenance and Service. The three areas are K. Management which enables customer to look at the current production process, regardless of location and in real time. The production data is displayed on the dashboard. This helps in terms of process transparency by delivering the information and also supports decision making and planning with the valid database. Likewise, K. Maintenance supports customers in their own maintenance operation. The third category included K. Service is global and helps its customer to link with Karl Meyer. The remaining categories are being developed to support the digital factory of Karl Meyer.

Mr. Jurgan Hanel, Head of Technology Technical Textiles, A. Monforts Textilmaschonen GmbH & Co.KG presented a paper on “Textile Coating Under the influence of Internet of Things”. He initiated his talk with introduction to different types of coating machines viz; knife coating, Foam Coating and Roller Coating. Four modules of versatile coating machines including multifunctional, knife coating, rotary screen printing and magnetic roller coating were listed to address the Textile 4.0. Modular Coating “Montex Allround” having the features of Internet of things, Industry 4.0 Compliant, Fully automatic features along with artificial intelligence was presented. Further, an important finishing machine having automated control system that can facilitate compliance to Textile 4.0 was discussed in the context of Montex Allround coating machine features.

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POST EVENT REPORT Mr. Samath Fernando, CIO, Hirdaramani Group & CEO, HONE Pvt Ltd, Sri Lanka presented a paper titled “RPA (Robotics Process Automation) and its impact to Apparel/ Textile manufacturing Processes”. He discussed on use of robotics and modulation of the manufacturing processes and control of the process parameters in different stages of apparel manufacture. He stressed on control of process parameters to achieve higher productivity and quality in the apparel manufacture.

Mr. Vikas Sharan, Director-India Operations, Saurer Textile Solutions Pvt Ltd., spoke on “Sustainability in Spinning through Innovation, Artificial Intelligence and Internet of Things (IoT)”. He described the spinning system being supplied by Saurer with solutions for staple fibre processing from bale to yarn on sustainable management mechanism. He emphasized that the spinning systems address energy conservation, economics and ergonomics. Specifically, he illustrated the Carding machine - JSC 326, Zinser Speed Frame- 5A, Ring Spinning Frame -Zinser Impact -72 XL, Auto coner-ACX6 and Rotor Spinning system-Autocoro 9 having features to be Textile 4.0 compliant. The theology of his presentation was to reiterate developments of Saurer group to meet the challenges of Textile 4.0.

The Second Technical Session-II was devoted to the Implementation of Textile 4.0 in Garment Manufacturing.

Mr. Vikas Banduke, Vice President, Textile Engineering – Automation, A.T.E. Enterprises presented a paper on “How to make existing machines Compliant to Textile 4.0”. The paper attracted the attention of the gathering especially due to appropriate solution to approach compliance to Textile 4.0. Microprocessors and Software systems which are ‘make specific’ call for replacement with the supply from the original manufacturer/supplier. M/s A.T.E. have done inhouse R&D to replace with user friendly software incorporated to make the machines meet the requirement of the Textile 4.0. Mr. Vikas Banduke presented different case studies wherein the approach has yielded positive results proving the point that installation of new machines with high capital is not the only solution for compliance to Textile 4.0.

of Datatex as a software development and facilitation organisation since 1987. Industry 4.0 encompasses the robotics, Artificial Intelligence, Internet of things and interface with various types of manufacturing machines.

Mechanization of the operations was the first step, while automation with IT enabled systems according to him has become a reality under the Industry Revolution Textile 4.0. Some of the case studies from different parts of globe wherin his company has been part was illustrated to bring home that Industry 4.0 or Textile 4.0 is a reality not simply a buzz word.

In the last Technical Session which covered the Risk Management two papers were presented. First paper was pertaining to price fluctuation of cotton and its management and another paper was on fluctuation in dollar price and its management.

Mr. Badruddin Khan, Sr. Manager-Product Management Team, Multi Commodity Exchange of India (MCX) presented a paper on “Cotton Price Risk Management”. He discussed the concept of ‘commodity exchange’ in the context of different types of commodity markets including spot markets, forward markets and future Trading. He emphasized on future trading as means to manage risk of price variation within a specific time period. Transparency, security to the seller to contain with the price fluctuations, warehouse facilities, Hedging etc were illustrated with various examples based on the trading done under MCX. It was brought out that in addition to transparent system of Textile 4.0 using IT enabled Systems, MCX can be a better facilitator for trading of the commodity and manage risk especially the cotton which is a major raw material base for the textile manufacturing.

Mr. Sajal Gupta, Head- Forex & Rates, Edelweiss Securities Limited made a presentation on ‘Managing Forex Risk in Extreme Volatility’. He initiated his presentation with the impact of dollar fluctuation on the overall business operations either in export or import of goods. He introduced the concept of benchmarking through strategic price for the foreign currency. In order to contain with the

Mr. Felix AK Pinto, Sales Director, South Asia, South East Asia and ANZ, X-Rite Incorporated presented a paper on “Next level of Virtualisation for Textile Industry, Total Appearance Capture from X-Rite”. He initiated his talk on the journey of X-Rite in assessment of appearance and colour on a substrate with special reference to textile fabrics. With advent of microprocessors and IT enabled software, the journey has been so fascinating that it is “simply seeing is believing”. As quality assurance and decision support system in colour management, he collated how these are compliant to Textile 4.0.

Mr. Ronnie Hagin, CEO, Datatex Group presented a paper titled “Industry 4.0- Textile Reality from buzz to opportunity”. He started his deliberation with the background

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Release of Book of Papers

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March 2019

POST EVENT REPORT currency fluctuation, he presented, Edelweiss Hedge Optimiser Model to the audience. Available hedging tools for managing the forex risk especially during extreme volatility were presented. Business ethics through transparent management of forex risk, according to him is the acceptable solution even under extremely volatile market force conditions.

Concluding Remarks The conference was well received with attendance of over 350 participants. The cross section of participation was

Pan-India. The participants opined that the theme of the international conference was quite opt and time tested for moving forward to address challenges under Textile 4.0. In this pursuit, the conference organised by TAI Mumbai Unit presented the perspectives of industry 4.0 including the international opinion, Technology, Raw material base with stringent quality requirements for automated manufacturing technology and machine design and assembly with Software enabled operations to achieve the high quality, productivity and the future consumer demand.

PRE EVENT UPDATE

PLANS AFOOT FOR A BIGGER, MORE EXCITING ITMACH INDIA 2019 More exhibitors, the absolute latest technologies, knowledge sharing sessions, larger area, global visitors will be the mark of the third edition of ITMACH India 2019, from December 5-8.

The third edition of ITMACH India will be held from December 5-8, 2019, in Gandhinagar, Gujarat, the most important hub of textile manufacturing in the country. This edition of ITMACH India will be important for the textile industry, especially in the Asian region, being the first large scale show in India, just about six months after ITMA 2019, in Barcelona.

Organisers expect this to be a bigger show, with more than 500 exhibitors, compared to 350 exhibitors in the last edition in 2017. This time too, a lot of the latest technologies will be on display. A number of important players in the textile engineering industry have already signed up as exhibitors.

The Indian textile industry is going through a restructuring phase. Investments in spinning are expected to slow down for the next couple of years. The decentralised weaving sector, which manufactures around 65-70% of the fabric in the country, is upgrading its obsolete technologies. Processing continues to remain a challenge for

the industry, and zero liquid discharge is a solution for this polluting segment. Garmenting too needs to pick up, to cater to the growing domestic and global demand. Labour availability and costs are another obstacle to growth and profits of the industry.

Given this background, the industry will continue to invest in technologies that offer better quality, productivity, automation, sustainability. Moreover, with many states offering a number of incentives to the textile and apparel industry, investments in the right products and technologies will go up. An interesting time for the world’s textile technology suppliers to be in India!

ITMACH India, as always, will attract genuine buyers and visitors from across the country, keeping exhibitors busy through the four days of the show. The organisers will also bring in various state delegations, and country delegations.

An added attraction at ITMACH India this time is a series of conferences, which will have renowned international speakers, and will attract a global audience.

Indian Textile Sourcing (ITS) Exhibition 2019 will be held concurrently to ITMACH India 2019.

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“

yourself from your achievements

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POST EVENT REPORT

CAI INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE COTTON INDIA 2019 CAI ( Cotton Association of India) held their annual conference with theme: global opportunities and challenges in cotton on 6thmarch 2019 8th march 2019 at hotel trident, nariman point, mumbai (India).

Event inaugurated by Mr. Atul S. Ganatra, President, Cotton Association of India; Mr. Brijmohan Sekhsaria, Chairman, DD Cotton; Mr. Bhupendra Singh Rajpal, VicePresident, Cotton Association of India, Shri Vinay N. Kotak, Addl.Vice-President, Cotton Association of India, Mr. Shyamsunder M. Makharia, Hon. Treasurer, Cotton Association of India, Dr. P. Alli Rani, Chairman-cum-Managing Director, Cotton Corporation of India, Mr. Ashish Kumar Chauhan, Managing Director & CEO, Bombay Stock Exchange, Mr. Bill Ballenden, President, International Cotton Association Limited, Mr. P.D. Patodia, Past President, Cotton Association of India, Mr. Jayant B. Shah, Chairman and Managing Director, Gill & Co. Pvt. Limited and Mr. Kishorsinh R. Mirani, Senior Partner, Khimji Visram & Sons) Other key speakers made their presentation in respect to their fields ie, on economics, overall cotton textile scenario.

CAI launched their mobile app “CAI TRADER” which is useful for cotton traders, currently this app only available in Android App phone. Its features are as follows: • Calculators: easily convert between different units used in the cotton trade and other tools to make day to day business quicker and simpler.

• Market data: access to various market data • Trade book organizes all trades in one place and use powerful filters for instant insights.

• Trade Sharing which share your trades with the click of a button and just as easily transfer data shared by others into your own trade book • Trade Analysis: effortlessly export all transactions into excel and study them for more sophisticated insights.

Welcome address speech given by Mr. Atul Ganatra, as follows: Last year we have organized 2 successful domestic conferences in Mumbai and Aurangabad where around 1000 cotton trade people had attended the conference from all India. Looking at the great response by the trade we have decided to organize our next domestic conference of this year somewhere around the month of October 2019. This conference will be out of Mumbai in one of the cotton growing state. The date will be announced once it is finalized.

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Cotton sector in India is witnessing rapid changes. Indian cotton has excellent inborn values. The Government of India is keen on building upon the inherent qualities of Indian cotton by creating awareness amongst farmers and ginners about the necessity of harvesting clean and better cotton to fetch maximum price for their produce.

Bureau of Indian Standards is in the process of revising and implementing a new standard namely IS: 12171 to increase quality consciousness improve bale packaging and specify quality parameters on the bales. Also testing each lot and displaying quality parameters on the respective cotton bales will be compulsory for ginners. CAI has offered to the government its network of 13 laboratories across all major cotton producing states of the country to provide HVI test results of each lot within 48 hours and also to issue certificates of manual classing. CAI has started the process of upgrading its existing infrastructure and if need arises, CAI will set up more cotton testing laboratories in coming years. To give more reliability to the testing operations at CAI laboratories, we have start-

ed the process of getting NABL accreditation.

The Government is actively considering the long-standing demand of the Indian cotton sector to re-commence the Technology Mission on Cotton. This will not only cater to the needs of modernizing the infrastructure available at various Ginning and Pressing factories and result in the processing of better and clean cotton to increase the productivity of cotton in India.

Our Association has been in fore-front to develop cotton for the better yield and for better varieties in India. Our association was appointed by government in all India cotton body on Indian centre commission in 1924 onwards.

Cotton Association of India has completed 99 years working for the betterment of the trade and next year in 2020

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POST EVENT REPORT we are going to complete 100 years.

Although India is the largest producer of cotton in the world, productivity of cotton in India is the lowest in the world and far below the world cotton average productivity mark. Cotton production in India is on the decline.

Cotton production which was over 40 million bales only a few years ago has gone down drastically and it is now hovering at around 33 million bales. India has the highest acreage under cotton in the world but there is hardly any scope now to further increase the acreage under cotton.

Therefore, the only way to increase production of cotton in India is by improving the productivity level. Well aware of the situation, the Government is actively providing constant policy support to address key focus areas like creating more irrigation facilities to reduce over-dependence on rains and increasing the income of farmers.

Actually in India this year sowing of cotton has taken place in 123 lakh hectares but our yield per hectare is around 450 to 470 kilo lint only. Due to higher increase in MSP of other crops increasing area of sowing in cotton is now not possible. The problems we are facing to increase the yield of cotton in India is our 75% of area is non-irrigated and for this 75% area we are 100% dependent on good timely rains but unfortunately in the last 3 years we are not having good timely rains due to global warming.

To increase the yield we have to educate our farmers. For that apart from government agencies our association is also very active in this work. In the year 1987 our association has founded COTAAP Research Foundation and in last 5 years CAI has funded around 150 lakh rupees to COTAAP to do farmers work. As on today, from CAI our 4 Ex-presidents and 3 directors are on the COTAAP Board.

As on today, CAI is very worried about Indian cotton crop, reducing year on year so the CAI board has decided to open 1 more training centre for the farmers. To train more and more farmers, this year CAI board has decided to open a farmers training school in our CAI headquarters, Cotton Green building itself and for this training centre CAI has allocated 2 big offices and sanctioned a budget of 125 lakh rupees to be spent in coming 5 years for the farmers training.

At present in India we have very less hedging facility available. To increase the hedging facility CAI has tied up with world’s 2nd largest stock exchange and India’s number 1 stock exchange i.e. Bombay Stock Exchange to start commodity cotton futures. Through this BSE platform there will be huge hedging facilities available to the trade in the near future.

In order to establish business relations and to improve the ease of doing cotton business with various countries, CAI has entered into MOUs with various international bodies like International Cotton Association Ltd. (ICA), China Cotton Association (CCA), extra. During this Conference, CAI will be renewing its existing MOU with ICA and

March 2019

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it will also endeavor to enter into a fresh MOU with Bangladesh Cotton Association and the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association to increase cooperation with them and promote communication between the cotton industries of various countries.

STATE

BALES IN LAKH

PUNJAB

10

HARYANA

25

Upper Rajasthan

12

Lower Rajasthan

13

Total North zone

60.00

Gujarat

83.50

Maharashtra

77.00

Madhya Pradesh

24.25

Total Central India

184.75

Telangana

43.00

Andhra Pradesh

16.00

Karnataka

15.00

Tamilnadu

5.00

Total South zone

79.00

Orissa

3.25

Others

1.00

Total East Zone

4.25

Against this year’s crop of 328 lakh bales upto 28th February 2019, arrivals of 213.42 lakh bales are received and pending 114.58 lakh bales arrivals is yet to be received. As per this data 65% of Indian crop has been arrived. The state wise figure of this arrival is given on the screen. Please have a look The indian Cotton Sheetis for 2018-19 is as under The Indian co�on balanceBalance sheet for 2018-19 as under:Details (in lakh b/s) Supply Opening Stock on 01.10.2018 Crop size – 201819 Imports Total Supply Demand Mill Consump�on Consump�on by SSI Units Non- Mill Consump�on Total Domes�c Consump�on Available Surplus Exports – 2018-19 Closing Stock will be on 30/09/2019

2018-19 (in’000 Tons)

2017-18 (in lakh b/s)

(in’000 Tons)

28.00

476.00

36.00

612.00

328.00

5576.00

365.00

6205.00

27.00 383.00

459.00 6511.00

15.00 416.00

255.00 7072.00

276.00 28.00

4692.00 476.00

275.00 29.00

4675.00 493.00

12.00

204.00

15.00

255.00

316.00

5372.00

319.00

5423.00

67.00 50.00 17.00

1139.00 850.00 289.00

97.00 69.00 28.00

1649.00 1173.00 476.00

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE

TIME TO RETHINK AND STEP UP: HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW YOUR WET WIPES? Lenzing spokesperson attribution: JĂźrgen Eizinger, Vice President of Global Business Management Nonwovens, Lenzing AG Wet wipes are virtually everywhere around us, from purses to diaper bags to gym bags. For many consumers, wet wipes are simply the convenient and hassle-free option for cleanliness and a refreshing feeling that is hard to resist when on the move. With changes in consumer habits and lifestyles, it appears impossible for wet wipe users to imagine a life where such items would not exist. Although these soft, cloth-like wipes are often labelled as free from critical substances or allergens on product packages, the question remains: Do consumers know what these products are made of?

According to a recent Lenzing consumer survey conducted via Research Now SSI, less than 10 % of the respondents assume that wet wipes contain plastic materials. The majority of the nearly 4,000 female participants from 14 markets around the world simply assume that wet wipes are made of natural materials. However, the reality today is that most of these products are made with plastic materials, which often will take hundreds of years to degrade.

If not disposed of correctly, wet wipes will contribute to ecological pollution, blocking sewers and creating marine litter. The resulting environmental problems and threats to the ecosystem need to be addressed globally.

Transparent product labels and biodegradable materials are key to a sustainable future The need to emphasize and counter this issue on both a national and international scale has already been raised.

In the UK, the Environment Secretary Michael Gove has proposed new policies to save marine life and protect ecosystems, which include cutting down on single-use plastics and eliminating wet wipes made of plastic.

The European Commission, in their Single-Use-Plastics Directive, considers wet wipes as one of the ten single-use plastic materials and has therefore proposed labeling for wet wipes. In addition, an incentive scheme will be put in place to further promote the development of sustainable alternatives. An effective way to replace plastics in wet wipes will be in the development and scalable commercialization of biodegradable alternatives made from cellulose fibers such as lyocell or viscose. These fibers are part of the natural lifecycle since they are derived from renewable raw materials such as wood and will fully bio-

36

degrade after use.

Currently however, suppliers are not required to disclose which fiber materials are used in their wet wipes. How then, can consumers understand what the product is made from?

One effective way is to drive and align the industry practice of fiber material labeling on wipes packages. The European Commission’s draft directive proposes disclosing the presence of plastic materials like polyester or polypropylene on packaging. Although a beneficial first step, wet wipes users are asking for further transparency from suppliers. A consumer survey conducted by Lenzing reveals that over 90% of the respondents would be interested in a full list of raw materials used on product packages.

Among those respondents, over 70% are even willing to sign a petition calling for transparent wet wipe labeling.

This indicates that not only do government bodies drive the reduced usage of plastics in wet wipes, but consumers also want to do so, and are willing to make a change for a greener environment. These trends toward transparency, backed by manufacturers and consumers alike, offer a promising glimpse into a more sustainable future.

The increased use of fully biodegradable raw materials in wet wipes and raw material labeling on product packaging are only the first steps. It is imperative that the entire value chain to work closely together, proactively educates consumers on the correct disposal methods and impact of product afterlife features. It is now time for the industry and consumers to rethink, step up, and take action.

JĂœRGEN EIZINGER

Vice President Global Business Management Nonwovens Lenzing AG www.textilevaluechain.com

March 2019

ASSOCIATION NEWS

CITI HAILS “COMPREHENSIVE SCHEME FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF KNITTING & KNITWEAR SECTOR” AS HISTORICAL Under the dynamic leadership of the Hon’ble Prime Minister of India, the Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Smt. Smriti Zubin Irani today launched the much awaited “Comprehensive Scheme for the Development of Knitting & Knitwear Sector with various components under PowerTex India”.

knitting and knitwear clusters by equipping the existing powerloom centers run by the TRAs or EPCs or any other textile association with requisite machinery for training/ testing purposes required for knitting and knitwear industries, financial assistanceupto Rs 20 lakh/ centre will be provided.

Shri Sanjay K Jain, Chairman, CITI welcomed the Scheme and hailed it as a historic step which would create value to the bottom of the pyramid. Since the Knitting and Knitwear Industry is predominantly MSME in size and mainly located in decentralised sector, the scheme will help to promote Knitting and Knitwear Sector and thereby achieve the inclusive growth in the country and is a positive step to fulfil our Honourable Prime Minister’s Make in India dream.

3. Group Workshed Scheme for Knitting and Knitwear unit to facilitate the establishment of group Workshed for modern knitting machines and/or Knitwear which will provide required scale of economy for business operations and improved working condition.

CITI Chairman further stated that the scheme will enhance the sector’s contribution to the nation building as Knitting and Knitwear Sector is one of the major segments of the entire textile value chain and contributes about 27% of the total cloth production and about 15% of knitted fabric is being exported besides export of knitted apparel. He further informed that the share of knitted garments in value terms is about 38% in overall export of clothing.

Mr Jain also pointed out that despite knitwear sector growing at a much faster pace than weaving, it had been neglected till date and all schemes were just targeted for handloom and powerloom Sector despite this segment being of similar nature and character. Today knitwear is in everyone’s wardrobe in the form of innerwear, socks, tshirts, leggings etc and its clusters badly needed this support. He said the industry had no words to thank Hon’ble Prime Minister and Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles for this great initiative which will change the structure of knitwear industry in the coming days. The main clusters to benefit from this announcement are Tirupur, Kolkata, Ludhiana, Kanpur and NCR.

The highlights of the schemes are as follows: 1. Creation of new service centres by providing financial assistance upto Rs 2 crores per knitting and knitwear service centers for adequate facilities for testing, trading, sample development, consultancy, trouble shooting, facilitation services to the knitting and knitwear clusters on PPP model with participation from industry/ association.

2. Modernisation and upgradation of existing PSCs in the

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4. Yarn Bank Scheme for Knitting and Knitwear unit to interest free corpus fund to SPVs or consortium of knitting units to enable them to purchase yarn at wholesale rate and give the yarn to the small knitting units thereby avoiding middleman/ local suppliers brokerage on sales of yarn. The Govt. is providing interest free corpus fund upto Rs. 2 crore per yarn bank.

5. Common facility Centre for knitting and knitwear units to establish CFC in various knitting and knitwear clusters for providing common facilities like processing, dyeing, printing, design development, testing facilities, ETP, etc. The Govt. is providing the subsidy maximum upto Rs. 4 crores including the yarn depot per project.

6. Pradhan Mantri Credit Scheme to provide adequate and timely financial assistance to meet their credit requirements for investment needs for new entrepreneurs belonging to SC/ST and women category. The financial assistance is provided in the form of margin money subsidy at 25% basic cost of the eligible new machinery at ceiling of Rs 25 lakhs.

7. Solar Energy Scheme to alleviate the problem of power cut/ shortage, by proving financial assistance/ capital subsidy to small units for installation of solar photo voltaic plant to improve utility, efficiency, productivity, etc. Financial assistance upto 50% is provided for installation of ongrid solar photo voltaic (without battery) and off-grid solar photo voltaic (with battery). Enhanced benefits of 75% and 90% for SC/ST entrepreneurs in the cost of solar panels.

8. Facilitation/ IT awareness/ publicity & Market Development assistance Mr. Jain stated that the above schemes will also help to achieve the objectives of “Make in India” programme as it will facilitate investment, enhance skill development and

37

ASSOCIATION NEWS build infrastructure for the development of Knitting and Knitwear Sector. He also observed that the scheme will help to promote innovation by bringing in latest designs, brands, skill development and upgradation.

CITI hails the Scheme to Rebate State and Central Embedded Taxes to Support the Textile & Clothing Industry

The Scheme will also help to achieve economic, social and environmental sustainability in the textile sector.

Chairman CITI, Shri Sanjay Kumar Jain welcomed the Cabinet decision approving the Scheme to Rebate State and Central Embedded Taxes to Support the Textile Sector. CITI Chairman thanked the Union Cabinet chaired

by Hon’ble Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modi for approving the scheme as it will enable the Government to take various measures for making exports of apparel and made-ups free of any embedded Central and State levies.

Mr. Jain concluded by saying that the scheme was a long pending demand of the industry and will catalyse more investment and employment in textile industry and will provide base for export of knitted apparel’s from the country.

CITI Hails Reduction in Hank Yarn Obligation from 40% to 30% as Historical the Hank Yarn Obligation (HYO) from 40% to 30% of the total weaving yarn produced for domestic consumption.

This step would remove the anomaly of excessive obligation of hank yarn and save the ailing spinning industry from the extra burden. He stated that this is an historical step, as the industry was facing this extra burden for more than a decade now. He specifically thanked the Hon’ble Union Minister of Textiles, Smt. Zubin Irani for this historic announcement.

Mr. Jain stated that HYO provision had compelled the textile mills to produce a minimum of 40% of the Weaving Yarn for domestic consumption as Hank Yarn, which was inhibiting the growth of the industry. The actual cotton hank yarn requirement by the handloom sector is less than 15% of the total as per the estimate based on the Handloom Census 2009-10 data. It is estimated that now the requirement for hank yarn would have fallen to about mere 10% of the total weaving yarn produced for domestic consumption. Mills were under severe stress to meet this obligation as there was not sufficient demand for hank yarn in the country.

Chairman-CITI further stated that he is very thankful to the Government for considering the long standing demand of the industry. This will help the spinners bring down the cost and improve their competitiveness, thereby enabling Ease of Doing Business for the entire cotton textile industry. Last time, this obligation was reduced was in 2003 from 50% to 40% and the industry had to wait for about 15 years for the next round of reduction despite actual requirement percentage reducing every year.

Presently, apparel and made-ups segments are supported under the Scheme for Rebate of State Levies (RoSL).

However, certain State as well as Central Taxes continued to be present in the cost of exports.

The Cabinet decision provides for a scheme to rebate all embedded State and Central Taxes/levies for apparel and made-ups which have a combined share of around 56% in India’s textile export basket. Rebate of taxes /levies has been permitted through an IT-driven scrip system at notified rates.

The proposed measures will boost India’s competitiveness in export markets and ensure equitable and inclusive growth of apparel and made-ups sector.

CITI Chairman pointed out that the new scheme only covers apparels and made-ups but does not cover other important sectors of fabric and cotton yarn. To ensure that no taxes are exported and to make Indian cotton yarn and fabric globally competitive, CITI request the Government to include cotton yarn and fabric in the new proposed scheme. It will not only help to boost cotton yarn and fabric exports but also increase the employment opportunities and inclusive growth in the entire textile value chain.

It is estimated that there are many blocked/embedded taxes/levies/ surcharges of about 6-7% for spun yarn and fabric sector which are not reimbursed and adding to the cost of exports.

CITI Chairman pointed out that India’s cotton yarn and fabric exports are also struggling because of the duty disadvantage faced by the Indian exporters in the major markets. CITI analysis reveals that there has been a continuous decline in exports of cotton yarn and fabric from 2013-14 to 2017-18. India’s exports of cotton yarn declined by 25% from US$ 4,570 mn in 2013-14 to US$ 3,443 mn in 2017-18. In the same period fabric exports declined by 7% from US$ 4,941 mn to US$ 4,598 mn.

“ Successful people are not different from others, Thinking of successful 38

“

people are different from others

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March 2019

POLICY UPDATE

TAMILNADU TEXTILE POLICY 2019 HIGHLIGHTS

Tamilnadu have maintain its position as a progressive State, the Government has taken proactive steps showing the release of Vision 2023 Tamilnadu document, formulation of Tamilnadu Infrastructure Development Act, Rules and Regulations, along with Tamilnadu Transparency in Tenders (Public Private Partnership and Procurement) Act and Rules. The United Nations Report on Probity in Public Procurement has recognized Tamilnadu as the first State to have a legislative frame work to deal with Public Private Partnership procurement.

The Vision 2023 Tamilnadu document envisages a 14% annual growth in the manufacturing sector and an investment of Rs.15 lakh crore in the next 10 years. In order to attain the growth targets fixed for the respective economic indicators, the formulation of a new policy for the textile sector has become imperative.

The focus areas of interventions in the New Integrated Textile Policy 2019 are: 1) Sustenance of traditional handloom sector to preserve the skills and artistry of handloom weavers of State 2) Design Development and Products Diversification; 3) Capacity building and Development of Environment Friendly Processing Sector; 4) Focus on Development of Decentralized Knitting and Garmenting Sector in other potential clusters; 5) Promotion of Technical Textiles; 6) Fulfilling the skill requirement; 7) Holistic and Harmonious Integrated Textile Development.

POLICY BENEFITS FOR DIFFERENT SECTORS: SPINNING SECTOR It is enjoying leading position in India for producing cotton and synthetic yarns. 60% spinning mills located in this state but currently 46% mills operational and 35% yarn only produced from this state.

TUFS scheme have been withdrawn in year 2016 after launch of ATUFS. Incentives Offered To remain competitive at global level and help continue grow this sector, 2% Interest Subvention provided for investments on Technological Up gradation and Modernization in existing Spinning Mills with a vintage period of minimum 15 years on installed machinery.

HANDLOOM SECTOR Status Handloom sector, with its long tradition of excellence in craftsmanship, occupies a place of eminence in preserving heritage of our state and plays an important role in

March 2019

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the economy of the State. There are 21.46 lakh handlooms in India, of which 1.89 lakh handlooms are in the State. The State handloom sector provides employment to around 3.19 lakh handloom weavers, which occupies third position in the country in terms of number of handlooms installed and production.

Incentives Offered • Scheme for Free Supply of Electricity to Handloom Weavers households @ 200 units bi-monthly to weavers’ households; • Savings and Security Scheme with State contribution • Innovative and product diversification scheme • Credit assistance, infrastructure facilities, Textile park development, e-marketing assistance.

• Hank yarn scheme • Geographical indication to protect handloom heritage for traditional sarees done with craftsmanship. Make and support handloom as brand.

• Interest subsidy @ 6%, increase of Rebate Subsidy.

• Skill up gradation POWERLOOM SECTOR Power loom sector have about 24.86 lakh registered power looms in India, of which, Tamilnadu has 5.63 lakh power looms with 10.19 lakh workforce with 212 Power loom Weavers Co-operative Societies.

Incentives Offered • Scheme for Free Supply of Electricity to Power loom Weavers @ 750 units bi-monthly for about 1.06 lakh Power loom units • 10% Credit Linked Capital Investment Subsidy on brand new shuttle-less looms under ATUFS • Investment scheme • Central Power tex Scheme in action PROCESSING SECTOR Fabric processing is the weakest link in the state. Currently processing going out of state for final finish fabric.

Incentives Offered • 10% Credit Linked Capital Investment Subsidy under ATUFS • Apart from benefits from Central scheme of IPDS , state government assistance upto 25% of project cost.

• Erode and Ramanathapuram district focused as a future processing hub in TN. 10% capital subsidy in wider width fabric printing machine, 15% subsidy for Effluent treatment plant.

• Support for research and development provided on PPP mode for effective operation of textile parks.

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POLICY UPDATE KNITTING, APPAREL AND GARMENTING SECTOR 45% knitted garment exported from Tiruppur , it exports of over Rs. 25000 crore, Domestic supply worth Rs. 10000 crore. Chennai, major hub for ready-made garments.

Incentive offered • 40% project cost of setting up textile park.

• 15% credit linked capital investment subsidy ( CIS)

• 25% subsidy for setting up new training centers with ITI. • Plug and play assistance under various scheme

TECHNICAL TEXTILES scheme as per central government scheme.

TEXTILE PARK scheme as per central government scheme.

Other scheme as per Tamilnadu Industrial policy of 2014.

NEWS MESSE FRANKFURT INDIA AND MEX EXHIBITIONS ENTER INTO A STRATEGIC ALLIANCE TO CREATE AN INTEGRATED BUSINESS PLATFORM FOR TEXTILE SECTOR With portfolio expansion and future development of the industry in sight, the organisers of Texprocess India and Gartex India have entered into a strategic alliance to form a unified industry platform ‘Gartex Texprocess India’. The event will be part of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network leveraging on the group’s strong global network and expertise in the sector.

Leading in both apparel consumption and exports, India holds the second largest textile manufacturing capacity globally with the textile machinery sector witnessing a growth of 8-10 percent year on year. As the world’s second largest exporter of textiles and clothing projected to reach USD 300 billion by 2024, Indian apparel manufacturers are moving towards increasing their manufacturing capacities and upgrading technology, giving rise to automation garmenting processes to enter the Indian market. Having made its debut in 2016, both Texprocess India and Gartex India received tremendous response from the industry with leading associations and companies in the garment and textile machinery sector coming forward to support the shows.

At the internationally renowned Texprocess, exhibitors from around the world converge to present the latest machines, plants, processes and services for the manufacture of garments and textile and flexible materials. While Texprocess India was launched as a pavilion to create an innovation platform for garment-manufacturing and textile processing at Techtextil India tradeshow in Mumbai, Gartex India exhibition was held annually in New Delhi and has grown wider in scope covering not just garment and textile manufacturing value chain but has also added segments like innerwear manufacturing zone, Laundry & Denim show along the way in addition to digital textile printing, embroidery and other existing verticals. With the merger of the two strong textile trade fair brands, the organisers, Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions, aspire to work in collaboration for India’s textile industry development, facilitating global sourcing and networking in the textile value chains.

in 2016, making the event wider in scope and greater in significance year after year. It has created new standards for the industry in terms of enhancing awareness, excellent networking, knowledge dissemination and industry bonding. Now, it is time to take it to the next level and this Strategic Alliance with Texprocess of Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India, Gartex India will realise its true potential and soar to even greater heights.”

While the show will continue to maintain a strong focus on garment and textile manufacturing solutions, embroidery machines, digital textile printing sector, sewing machines, laundry solutions, innerwear manufacturing, denim show, fabrics, accessories among others, the organisers aims to expand its exhibit segments to cover complete textile process chain in the coming editions.

This includes technologies involved from design, cutting, sewing, knitting and embroidery to finishing, refining, IT and logistics which will supplement its textile technologies portfolio through the association with Texprocess.

Talking about the alliance, Raj Manek, Executive Director and Board Member of Messe Frankfurt Asia Holding Ltd said: “Our shared commitment for industry development has led to the decision of working in collaboration with MEX Exhibitions. Together, we are positioned to grow and more importantly provide industry stakeholders with a strong brand of enhanced offerings through a singlesource business platform - ‘Gartex Texprocess India’.

Moreover, the alliance has set pace for our brand expansion strategy as India is one the most promising textile markets.”

With a unique portfolio of 50 international fairs for the textile sector, Messe Frankfurt is the world’s market leader when it comes to trade fairs for the textile sector. Gartex Texprocess India will now be part of Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network which is a combination of the world’s most important textile trade fair worldwide that highlight innovations and show what is driving the global textile industry. The unified Gartex Texprocess India edition will be held from 10 – 12 August 2019 at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi in India.

Gaurav Juneja, Director of MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd said: “Gartex India has grown multifold in size since its debut

40

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March 2019

NEWS

NEW CHAIRMAN FOR SRTEPC Shri Ronak Rughani, Joint Managing Partner, M/S Rughani Brothers, Mumbai has taken over charge as the Chairman of The Synthetic and Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) on 7th March 2019.

His company M/S Rughani Brothers has been a member of SRTEPC since 1994. Shri Ronak Rughani has been serving on the Board of the Council as an active Member in the Committee of Administration for last 9 years.

He was the Vice-Chairman of the Council for the last two years actively involving himself in the various activities of the Council including export promotional programmes.

Shri Ronak Rughani was instrumental in making the Government to include the Merchant Exporters under the Interest Equalisation Scheme (IES). The demand of the textile industry to extend the benefits of the Interest Equalisation Scheme (IES) to Merchant Exporters was a long pending issue which Shri Rughani could effectively resolve. Shri Rughani’s role was also crucial in increasing

the MEIS rates on exports of fabrics, upward revision of DBK rates, etc. He has also efficiently made Hon’ble Textile Minister convinced to recommend to the Ministry of Finance for extension of RoSL benefits to Manmade fibre, yarn and fabrics.

Shri Ronak Rughani has ably led his company, M/S Rughani Brothers, established in 1977, to become a Government of India Recognized Star Export House. M/S Rughani Brothers, a leading company in exports of Men’s wear Fabrics and Garments is a100% Export Oriented Firm.

Under his competent leadership, the company won the SRTEPC Gold Trophy 2017-18 in the Category of Merchant Exports – Fabrics.

Shri Ronak Rughani brings to the table 25 years of experience and expertise in the Textile Industry and has extensively travelled across the globe. A popular and well known personality among leading importers, buyers and manufacturers in many countries, Shri Ronak Rughani has deep knowledge and insights of production processes spanning the entire textile value chain right from fiber to fashion and aggressive marketing.

AN INCREDIBLE STORY OF GROWTH - S.T. COTTEX From a 25,000 spindles unit in the year 2000 to a textile conglomerate comprising 11 units with a capacity of 150,000 spindles, 6,000 open end rotors, and 50 circular knitting machines – that is the incredible growth story of S.T. Cottex Exports Pvt Ltd, Ludhiana. Today, S.T. Cottex manufactures 100% cotton and 100% spun polyester greige fabrics with a total production of 130 tons of yarns per day.

S. T. Cottex has a wide customer base within India and abroad. Their regular markets are South Korea, Malaysia, Taiwan, China, Vietnam, Indonesia, Singapore, Egypt, Israel, Portugal, Italy, Spain, Germany, Columbia, Peru, Canada, United States, Brazil, and Bangladesh. The domestic markets of S.T. COTTEX include Ludhiana, Amritsar, Delhi, Panipat, Ahmedabad, Mumbai, Ichalkaranji, and Kolkata.

Since the beginning, S.T. COTTEX believed in Truetzschler and Savio technologies. The mill in all has 45 Truetzschler cards, 60 Savio automatic winders and 32 Savio TFOs. Mr Aditya Sachan, Executive Director, handles the operation of all 11 units and is also responsible for the future project planning of the group.

Mr Sachan says he has worked with the DK 780, DK 800 and TC 5 series of cards. “Truetzschler is a world leader in carding technology and we are happy with the performance of the Truetzschler cards working in our units. The workers are also very happy because of the low mainte-

March 2019

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nance of these cards.

Referring to Savio, Mr Sachan further commented “We have also grown with Savio technologies in S.T. COTTEX. We have Savio winders and TFOs in our units. Since the beginning, we have Espero, orion,Polar model winders in our units. The efficiency of Savio winders is very good and we have seen the latest features being upgraded in every new model which keep Savio ahead of its competitors.

The packages and splicers are the best from Savio winders giving them an edge over other manufacturers. The winders are very user-friendly and our technicians have positive experiences with both the round magazine and well as the link winders.”

The mill has Savio Cosmos TFOs running in all the units.

He was happy to say that the mills save on an average 5-8 % power due to Savio TFO’s as compared to other makes of TFOs. He also appreciated the after sales support provided by Savio India.

“I should say that A.T.E. is playing its role very effectively.

I am very happy that A.T.E. offers the right technologies and overall we are happy with the services provided by A.T.E. We are now looking forward to ITMA Barcelona, and I am sure A.T.E.’s principals will once again showcase innovative technologies at this show”, said Mr Sachan as he concluded the discussion.

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SHOW CALENDAR 2019 APRIL 2019 2-4 International Apparel & Textile Fair 2019

Dubai/ UAE

www.internationalapparelandtextilefair.com 4-6 BIGTEX

Chittagong / Bangladesh

www.redcarpet365.com/bigtexctg 4-6 Fibers and Yarns

Mumbai/ India

www.fibersnyarns.com 4-6 INTERTEX TUNISIA

Tunisia / Africa

www.bridgexpo.com/intertex-tunisia-2019 25-27 FABTEX

Mumbai/ India www.fabtexexpo.in MAY 2019 16-18 YIWUTEX

Zhejiang / China www.zhejiangtextile.com 14-17 Techtexil / Texprocess

Frankfurt/ Germany techtextil.messefrankfurt.com JUNE 2019 3-5 CINE

Shanghai/ China www.cine-shanghai.com 6-8 NON WOVEN TECH ASIA 2019

Delhi / INDIA www.nonwoventechasia.com 20-26 ITMA 2019 Barcelona, Spain www.itma.com JULY 2019 3-6 Garment Manufacturer Sourcing Expo

Bangkok/ Thailand

www.gftexpo.com/gms/ 15-17 YARNEX 2019

New Delhi/ India

http://delhi.yarnex.in/ 15-17 F&A SHOW

New Delhi/ India

http://www.fnashow.in/ 18-20 GENTEX LANKA 2019

Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.gentexfair.com AUGUST 2019 2-4 GTE 19

Gandhinagar / India

3-5 Yarn Expo 2019

Surat/India www.yarnexpo.sgcci.in 10–12 Gartex Texprocess India

New Delhi / India www.gartexindia.com 9-12 TEXFAIR 2019

Coimbatore/ India texfair@simamills.org 29-31 TECHNOTEX 2019

Mumbai/ India www.technotexindia.in SEPTEMBER 2019 12-14 YARNEX

Tirupur/ India

http://yarnex.in 20-22 Textile Asia

Lahor / Pakistan www.textileasia.com.pk 25-27 Vibrant Terry Towel Global Expo

Solapur / India www.vibrantterrytowel.com OCTOBER 2019 22-24 FILTECH

Cologne/Germany

www.filtech.de NOVEMBER 2019 12-14 International Sourcing Expo

Melbourne / Australia www.internationalsourcingexpo.com 13-15 INTEX SOUTH ASIA

Colombo / Srilanka

www.intexfair.com/ 16-18 TexHub

Istanbul / Turkey

www.texhubistanbul.com/tr/ 20-22 Techtexil INDIA

Mumbai / India techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com 25-28 SHANGHAITEX 2019

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Gandhinagar / India www.itmach.com 5-8 ITES

Gandhinagar / India www.itsexhibition.com

www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com

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INTERVIEW

ICHALKARANJI GETS ITS FIRST PROCESSING MEGA CLUSTER In one of her visits to Ichalkaranji, textile commissioner Kavita Gupta commented that this is probably the only textile cluster in India which manufactures 1000s of metres of fabrics, which is sold across the country and abroad, but the fabric manufacturer is unaware of the supply chain.

It is with the aim of completing the value chain within the cluster that a mega processing cluster has been set up in Ichalkaranji, at a total cost of around Rs 250 crore. The cluster, under the Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS), has received central government funding to the tune of Rs 50 crore, with the rest coming from bank loans. The mega processing cluster began operations in November 2018. It has a total capacity of 140,000 metres per day. The mega cluster has three state-of-the-art sizing units, process house, digital printing, rotary printing facilities. The cluster aims at zero liquid discharge, which will be possible within the next two years. The cluster has its own captive power plant. The payback period is expected to be 5-7 years, if the process house works at viable capacity.

Prakash Awade

Chairman of DKTE, Ichalkaranji, India.

Leader of Ichalkaranji, Kolhapur, India

The Maharashtra government has been placing a lot of emphasis on developing Vidarbha’s cotton value chain, and has attracted a number of textile units to the region through various incentive schemes. Next on the map is Solapur, which the government wants to develop as a textile uniform manufacturing hub.

But just a little over 200 kms away from Solapur, is the small powerloom cluster of Ichalkaranji, which has not attracted as much attention. Which is surprising, because this is one of the textile clusters that is known for its excellent weaving quality. Many leading textile companies – Indo Count, Raymond, Monti, among others have their manufacturing units in the Kolhapur-Ichalkaranji belt.

And almost every branded apparel manufacturer uses fabric made in Ichalkaranji.

The cluster manufactures 14 million metres of grey fabric per day, predominantly cotton. A lot of this goes into the manufacturing of apparel – caps, vests, etc – used by farmers. And even more of the fabric finds its way into process houses across the country, from where it travels to leading garment manufacturing clusters in Bangalore, Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata. And from here, the fabric, now in the form of apparel, gets exported.

March 2019

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At the helm of affairs is DKTE Institute of Ichalkaranji which has been instrumental in the development of the cluster. Chairman of the institute, and erstwhile textile minister of Maharashtra Prakash Awade, has a vision to not just complete the cotton value chain in Ichalkaranji, but to make Ichalkaranji the hub for high value textile, apparel and technical textiles.

“This is the pioneer project for Ichalkaranji. Clearly, the demand for processing capacity is much more than what we have provided in the mega cluster. There is need for another 10-20 such projects in Ichalkaranji,” said Awade.

The initiative to upgrade the powerloom cluster began in 2014, when high-end airjet looms started coming into the market. Currently, there are 12,000 shuttleless looms in the cluster, with another 2000 new looms in the pipeline, which will get installed over the next two years. Gradually, plain looms are getting phased out.

Ichalkaranji is also known for its sizing quality. This segment too was upgraded to match the high tech weaving quality. This has led to good quality grey fabric manufacturing in the cluster, with varieties going upto 80s counts, and superfine qualities.

While there is a clear need for more processing capacity, there are a few obstacles. “Firstly industrial land is not available. Second problem is pollution control. Today, we have one CETP of 12 MLD capacity, but we need at least two more CETPs of similar capacity immediately. Only then will new process houses come up. We have identi-

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INTERVIEW fied 2-3 places for the CETPs. We want to build this under the IPDS scheme too,” informed Awade.

Garmenting is the next step After the mega cluster, the step to complete the value chain is garmenting. Ichalkaranji already has an apparel cluster with around 200 machines. The groundwork of training women workers, helping them set up apparel units, or supporting units, has already been done by DKTE. “We have excellent garment manufacturing skills within Ichalkaranji itself. Under the mega cluster, we now want to set up most modern garmenting units too, which will create demand for processed fabric within the cluster itself. Our aim is to focus on variety, to showcase to the world that their apparel requirements can be met under a single roof,” envisions Awade.

A garmenting centre was started by DKTE as early as in 2004-05. DKTE organised skills training for women. As many as 4500 women have entered into the cluster’s garment sector, either working in the industry, or starting their own units.

“Almost every house in Ichalkaranji is manufacturing garments as small business. We started a garment cluster, under MSME, for women entrepreneurs. This is quite successful today, with high end apparel being exported to various countries,” informed Awade.

Today, around 7000-8000 women are working in Ichalkaranji’s garment sector, and around 70-80 units are associated with the garment cluster. The aim of this exercise was mainly women empowerment.

Branding and direct exports Another target for Awade is to ensure direct exports, instead of third party exports. “With the complete value chain, we should be able to achieve this. We are already participating in a number of international exhibitions. We are in the process of setting up a B2B centre, with PDEXCIL, so domestic and international buyers can network with Ichalkaranji’s manufacturers and traders.”

Also, branding building is an important exercise that many manufacturers are currently undertaking. “We manufacture the best quality woven fabric, and we will manufacture the best quality apparel too. Building a brand thus becomes very important. Made In Ichalkaranji will be reality by 2020,” believes Awade.

Encouraging techtex manufacturing There is also technical textiles and nonwovens which Ichalkaranji is promoting. DKTE is the Centre of Excellence for Nonwovens. The CoE has the latest machines for nonwovens. Many existing units utilise the facilities of the CoE. More importantly, easy access to the technical knowhow and machines has encouraged some entrepreneurs to start their own nonwovens manufacturing units, with support from DKTE and the CoE. “We have installed coating lines in the CoE. There are entrepreneurs who are currently experimenting with how coatings can be used on woven textiles too. Our ultimate aim in setting up all these facilities is to ensure value addition, and to provide opportunities to DKTE alumni within the cluster itself. I am happy to note that we have a very strong alumni that works continuously to take the Ichalkaranji cluster forward,” concluded Awade.

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INTERVIEW CHANGES IN FREE TRADE AGREEMENT, RAW MATERIAL COST KEY BOTTLENECK FOR INDIAN EXPORTERS the Expo was considered as a golden opportunity for all the Textile Products Manufacturers, Traders / Buyers, Exporters and Consumers to zero in their requirements and grab the emerging Textile Business Opportunities. 300 exhibitors across the country covering all the products made participation in the event which had 30 Thousand visitors out of whom 200 are overseas buyers from 35 countries.

Key challenges to address: According to the association, while there are plenty of challenges to be addressed, the key are the bottle-necks that hinder their growth in selling in the European Union is the free-trade-agreement and the cost of raw material increasing drastically while the margins are in single digit.

DR.K.SELVARAJU, SECRETARY General The Southern India Mills Association( SIMA)

Facing tough competition in the global arena, textile industry the Indian government should immediately address the bottlenecks in the fair trade practice, cost of raw materials to reduce the tension on the Indian exporters according to the Southern India Mills’ association (SIMA).

The association has recently concluded their exhibition for textile product in Jan. The event happened in Tamil Nadu, was a first-of-its-kind initiative organized jointly by the state and central governments. Government of Tamil Nadu, jointly with The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL) and Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL), other Export Promotion Councils and Textile Industry Associations has made active partnership in successfully concluding the event.

Tamil Nadu being the largest textile manufacturing state in the country having presence across the textile value chain and Coimbatore being the textile hub in the globe, March 2019

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“Our yarn product attract 10% to 36% duty to Bangladesh while they can export anything at free duty in India.

China, Bangaladesh, Vietnam, Sri Lanka , Pakistan has no duty. In fact, Pakistan has entered GSP+ agreement with European Union much earlier which has zero duty in Europe. These things are some disadvantages for our side.”, Dr K Selvaraju, Secretary General of the association says further adding that the profit margins in textile business are as less as 3% to 6%. According to him ,in many cases, Indian players lose orders only because of the tariff. Thus the South based association At least with the EU, India should re-work on the free trade agreement and it will be a gift from the . Double our exports if this EU happens.

This has been a demand for a lot of time. Industry is suffering.

Another challenge faced by the industry is on the raw material which accounts to 60% to 65% of the total cost.

“Raw materials should be made affordable. By and large, in cotton, we are globally competitive in terms of quality and pricing. However, when it comes to synthetic material, our fibre is expensive by 20% to 30% compared to China. Some of the hidden factors are import duty, IGST, anti-dumping duty and import-parity-pricing policy.”, Selvaraju says. China, out of the total production has 80% of synthetic material and 20% cotton material while in India is it the other way round. In India it is the other way round with 80% cotton and 20% synthetic. According to him, in the market, cotton has attained a saturation point. “The Textile Ministry, on the potential of textile business in India estimates to 350 Billion USD potential (2X growth).

To attain that, we need about 22 Billion Kilo Gram of raw material. However, we have only 9 million Kilo Gram. If we need high growth, we need extremely high growth in the synthetic segment, especially the poly ester”, he concluded.

By Swaminathan Balasubramanian Associate Editor of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

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DENIM PRODUCERS WANT GOVT ATTENTION; CALLS IT ‘SUN RISE SEGMENT’ have not been able shift the burden of increased cost to the market due to sluggish demand post Demonetization/ G.S.T. and as well as oversupply situation in the Industry.

Another crisis the industry is facing is the short supply of Indigo since January 2018 due to shut down of plants in China leading to an almost 50% jump in prices of indigo.

In the current scenario mills are fearing production loss due to non-availability of indigo in required quantities and majority of the mills are operating at minimum stock levels. Given the fact there is only one Indigo manufacturer with miniscule production capacity, abolition of import duty on Indigo will save the industry as the entire denim industry is dependent on imports from China.

GAGANDEEP SINGH Secretary Denim Manufacturers Association, New Delhi Globally India stands second next to China in terms of Denim production. Despite being growing at an average of 12% CAGR year on year, this industry has some pain points which, if addressed, will make it ever sunshine sector.

At present the capacity of denim industry in India is approximately 1.8 BN meters per annum and which was 800 million per annum in the year 2011. 750 to 800 milion is the approximate size of domestic market in India while close to 200 to 250 million meter is exported from the 50 denim mills who fall under organized sector in India.

Denim Industry is also playing a significant role in our agricultural sector as it consumes almost 10% of the cotton produced in India and provides employment to large section of society besides significant contributor to exports.

The denim fabric manufacturing industry, which used to be the sunrise industry in the entire textile value chain of India, is currently under stress due to increased cost of all major raw materials. The cost of production have gone up by an average of Rs 20-25/- per meter and there have been steep surge in price of all major raw materials namely Cotton, Yarn, Indigo liquid/powder, Black Sulphur, hydro format base etc. and ironically the industry players

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“The Denim manufacturers expect the government to come up with policies that are supportive for the manufacturers in all facets. Like working on the free trade agreements, bringing competitive advantages in terms of export policies which nations like Bangadesh, Sri Lanka and Vietnam are doing”, says Gagandeep Singh, Secretary, Denim Manufacturers Association. He also says that with high input raw material cost in the form of cotton and indigo Indian Denim Industry is worst impacted and many mills have shut down large parts of their capacity as the manufacturers are unable to pass on the increased cost to their customers. The current situation is resulting in multiple job losses impacting the families of the mill workers.

Another key challenge is the entry of finished denim garments entering India from Bangladesh and chances are that they are Chinese players might enter indirectly. 2018 was the tough time for the denim manufacturers as the cost of the raw material increased and due to over-supply the price correction in raw material was close to 50%.

Thus many who had plans for enter the market kept it on hold while existing players did not aggressively focus on expansion.

However, on the positive side, the association thanks the government on the new policies in terms of the flexible labour laws, the manufacturers see it on a positive note.

“With Denim manufacturing being a seasonal business, the new laws of having workforce on a contract-model will always help the mill owners”, he says.

Also, India, as a market is also huge for denim consumption. Factors like acceptance of denim as a formal-wear, denim as a material in shoes, bags shows India as a huge market for denim. According to industry experts even today on an average Indian consumer has only one pair of denim while in developed markets like The US it is five.

By Swaminathan Balasubramanian Associate Editor of TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

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March 2019

DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore March 2018 March 2019

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