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Volume 8

ARTICLES CHEMICALS AND DYES SUSTAINABILITY VIEWS GARMENT MANUFACTURING INDUSTRY 4.0 TRADITIONAL TEXTILES : SIKKIM INTERVIEW MR. JORDI GALTES, AMEC- AMTEX MR. DILIP BAROOAH, FABRIC PLUS DR. MANGESH TELI, ICT MR. SAURABH GUPTA, AEON COMMERCIAL

MARKET REPORT COTTON YARN REPORT SURAT REPORT

Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 120

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An ISO 9001:2015, ISO14001:2015, OHSAS 18001:2007 Certified Company

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DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 42018Office at Branch Coimbatore www.textilevaluechain.com March 2020

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Minimum space, maximum potential: the new autoleveller draw frame TD 10

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The TD 10 incorporates technical highlights more compact than ever. Due to its clever design, the TD 10 requires on average 20 % less space than comparable competitive models. In addition its intelligent SMART CREEL, combined with the T-LED remote display, offers unparalleled functional reliability and transparency.

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EXCEL ALONG THE BLUE WAY It started 20 years ago, with an idea for a responsible textile industry.

The idea became the Bluesign mission: to provide service-based solutions that help the industry realize responsible manufacturing, globally. THE BLUE WAY is a mindset towards advancements for supply chain inputs and outputs.

From improvements in resources and chemical usage to emissions and waste reduction – THE BLUE WAY creates a positive impact and better textiles.

As global society begins to catch up, we are taking our momentum into the next 20 years. We look forward to walking the walk together with you.

Let’s be 20 years ahead.

bluesign.com/20

bluesign.com/business March 2020

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committed to sustainability and innovation

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Products enhanced, colors enhanced, performance enhanced – “Life enhanced”.

We are a global leader in color and specialty chemicals for applications such as textiles, paper, paints, construction or adhesives. Our latest innovations include: EarthColors®, a range of textile dyes made of agricultural waste and fully traceable from the source to the shop, Inkpresso®, a system allowing textile digital printers to produce their inks on site and on demand, SmartRepel ® Hydro, a water repellency technology designed to keep textiles dry and nature cleaner, and Leucophor® ACS, a new concentrated brightening agent for white paper with a reduced CO2 footprint.

At Archroma, we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable.

/ GROWING SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS

00120118007_DU_ARCH_Poster_Sustainable_1847.85x1193.8_4c_en.indd 1

We touch and color people’s lives every day, everywhere

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CONTENT March 2020

COVER STORY 13 Dyes And Chemicals 20 Discussion Paper On Circular Practices In Chemical And Dyeing Segment In Textile And Apparel Sector 25 Novatic Md Vat Dyes Ultimate Choice Of Continuous Dyers 28 Applicative Innovation In Acid Dyes

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INTERVIEW INTERVIEW

32 Alkylphenol Ethoxylate The Troubling Bubble

109 Family Business, Is The Culture Of India And Spainindust

39 Supercritical Fluid Technology :A Way To Reduce Textile Water Footprint.

110 Gi With Skilled Human Resources 112 Sustainability Alert The Chemical Dye Industry

47 Implementation Of Chemical Managementsystem (Cms) In Textile Processing

116 Sustainable Chemicals and Denim, Strange ! But true with Research Oriented AEON

51 Swot Analysis Of Gujarat Textile Wetprocessing And Apparel Industries

GARMENT UPDATE

52 Sustainability Of Reactive Dyes Forcellulosic Coloration

88 Garment Manufacturing Industry

57 Current Challenges And Sustainabledevelopment In The Field Of Textile Colouration

93 Textiles Of Sikkim

TRADITIONAL TEXTILE

62 20 Years Ahead

SHOW REPORT

65 C6 Water Repellent

101 Texcon -2020

70 The Chemistry Of Optical Brigtening Agentand Its Environmental Impact

103 Aepc Organizes International Knit Fair Intirupur; Aims At Increasing Investments Fortextiles In India

TECHNOLOGY CORNER

104 Msme Knit Appreal Fest Discusses Key Issues In-Govt Policy, Innovation

74 The Chemistry Of Optical Brigtening Agentand Its Environmental Impact SUSTAINABILITY 76 Clothing From Areca Nut ( Betel Nut ) Fibres 78 Circular Economy Toolkit- A Guide Tocircular Fashion 81 Textile Waste Management 82 Inclining Towards Sustainability 83 Sustainability And Handloom 84 Greening Of Textiles

MARKET REPORT 105 COTTON REPORT 106- YARN REPORT 108 SURAT REPORT

Advertiser Index

Back Page : Raymond Back Inside : Raysil Front Inside : Rimtex

INDUSTRY UPDATE

Page 3- Britacel

86 Industry 4.0 : A New Digital Age

Page 4 DN Associates Page 5 : Lakshmi Caipo Page 6 : Trutzchler

EDITORIAL TEAM

Page 7 : bluesign Page 8 : Liva Page 9: Atul Ltd. Page 10 : Archroma Page 24 : IntexSo Page 104 : Vora Associates

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Editor and Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Owner, Publisher, Printer and Graphic Designer Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Mr. Anant A. Jogale Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Associate Editor Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Mr. Swaminathan Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.

Trainee Editor March 2020 www.textilevaluechain.com Ms. Ayman Satopay

Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com 11 Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

EDITORTIAL SUSTAINABLE DYES, CHEMICALS, AND FINISHES ARE A NECESSITY NOW!

‘‘

Three things in life – your health, your mission, and the people you love.

That’s it.

Naval Ravikant

’’

Chemicals are the only survivor for COVID 19, whether used in soap making, disinfectant cleaner, sanitizer, making a mask, etc. We speak about natural, sustainable life but without chemicals its impossible to live and it is an integral part of our life. Chemicals with the medicinal property will give new dimensions to the world.

Dye industry evolved from natural dyes from the plant , vegetable, fruit extracts to the artificial chemical based vat days, acid dyes, etc. Need-based evolution from natural to synthetics due to population rise, limited resources, and lengthy process of extraction in olden days. Again the world wants to move towards natural in the trend of sustainability and health being a priority. Eg. Ayurveda clothes dyed fabrics or yarn with natural Ayurveda herbs and plants, with limitation of production.

Waterless dyeing, few adopted and still research on this dye technology needs more focus. Gap and few branded denim manufacturers already using waterless dyed clothes.

Finishes having different technology make natural fiber to synthetic feel, touch, and vice versa. A lot of development and innovation, research needs to do in these areas too.

Finishes value addition is the winner for India, will have a competitive edge, and only sustainable in the long run.

Functional finishes like anti-microbial, anti-virus, anti-fungal will be on high demand in the near future. Functional Textiles and Apparel with Fashion touch will be having more demand in the near future. The fashion industry will change fundamentally, it’s now not only aesthetically appealing but also functionally beneficial clothes will win the runway.

This is a special edition of Dyes and Chemicals with various industry stalwarts and educationist have contributed their views, please have a look and share your feedback with us.

Stay Safe and Healthy!

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor and Publisher

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March 2020

COVER STORY

DYES AND CHEMICALS AYMAN SATOPAY Bsc in textile and apparel designing Have you ever wondered how the color of your favorite clothes came into existence? Read on more to find out how these colors or dyes came into existence.

Dyes are organic compounds that are widely used for imparting colour to textiles. It is generally in the form of liquid substance which requires a mordant to improve the dye fastness.

These dyes could be either natural which was discovered during early period of time and other dye includes chemical dyes that involve chemicals and the use of machinery.

History of dyes The uses of colorants by mankind for painting and dyeing of their surroundings, their skins, and their cloths dates back to the dawn of civilization. Until the middle of the 19th century, all colorants applied were from natural origin. For example, dyes were obtained from vegetables, animals, and mineral sources.As these dyes were not simple water-soluble substances, complex procedures were used to give rich and fast (but expensive) colours.

chemistry of dyes and a number of synthetic dyes were developed with the result that by the end of the nineteenth century, the natural dyes were almost completely replaced by synthetic dyes. Interestingly there has been a flow of activity in the recent past relating to the use of natural dyes for colouring textiles.

water content or temperature, any of these can cause a slight change in colour thus rendering each dye lot to be slightly different.

Selection of dyes

Dyes were originally derived from sources found in nature such as vegetables, plants, trees, lichens, and insects. Dependence on natural dyes went on for a long time until the 1850s.

To select the proper dye for a fibre, it is necessary to know which dyes have an affinity for the vegetable, animal or man-made fibres In general, the dyes used for cotton and linen may be used for viscose rayon, but other fibres having different chemical structures require different dyes.

The fastness of colour refers to its ability to remain unchanged.

Different dyes of different colours have different degrees of fastness to various conditions. For example, a colour that may have good fastness to washing may have poor fastness to light. Also, certain dyes may bleed, or run, when wet and may cause discolouration of other fabrics. Some dyes may crack, or rub off, due to frictional wear. Once a colour has been selected, it is essential that its formulation should be kept consistent. Each batch that is dyed must have a lot number. Since variation can occur in such factors as chemical concentration, fibre structure, and

Picture of vegetable fibre from ajanta

In 1856 a British Chemist named William Henry Perkin, produced a brilliant mauve dyestuff from coal tar which was the first synthetic dyestuff.

This led to an understanding of the

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Classification of dyes The basic classification of dyes could be natural and synthetic dyes Natural Dyes

Some of the natural dyes used in ancient times were indigo, alizarin, Tyrian purple, yellow and logwood.

Let’s look at each of them and see where they were derived from and how they were developed.

• Indigo – Indigo was probably the oldest known natural dye. It was derived from the leaves of dyer’s woad herb, isatis tinctoria, and from the indigo plant, indigofera tinctoria.

• Alizarin – Alizarin was a red dye extracted from the madder plant.

Meanwhile, other red shades were derived from scale insects such as kermes and coachineal.

• Tyrian Purple – Tyrian purple was extracted from the glands of snails.

This type of dye was quite elusive because experiments in 1909 found that only 1.4 grams of dye was generated from 12,000 snails, which may be the reason why only people in power, high office, or royalty such as kings and emperors had exclusive rights to wearing garments dyed with this pigment, as documented in the Hebrew Bible and illustrated for Roman emperors on mosaics in Ravenna.

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COVER STORY When the Eastern Roman Empire declined in the 1450s, the Mediterranean purple industry eventually waned as well.

• Yellow – Yellow came from the leaves of the weld, quercetin, and the bark of the North American oak tree. Carotenoids, which are compounds present in green plants, also produced yellow to red dyes.

• Logwood – Logwood is the only natural dye that is still being used today. Heartwood extracts coming from logwood yield hematoxylin. Once it oxidizes, it will turn to hematein during isolation. Initially, it is red but the color will transform to charcoal, gray, and black once combined with chromium. Logwood is used to dye silk and leather.

The Use of Mordants Most natural dyes warranted the use of mordants in order for the color to stick to different materials, fabric, or textile. Mordants used alongside natural dyes include aluminum, copper, iron, and chrome.

In some cases, mordants helped achieve different variations of shades or tints of a particular color.

For instance, magnesium mordants helped alizarin dyes give off a purple hue.

The Rise of Synthetic Dyes During the 1850s, the use of natural dyes slowly declined, and the rise of synthetic dyes started taking place, and it happened for a number of reasons.

The Industrial Revolution led to the growth of the textile industry, which also spurred the increase in demand for dyes that are cost-effective, readily available and easy to apply.

As a result, the economic limitations of harnessing natural dyes were revealed such as the vast area of land needed for its production and the consistency and staying power of the color they give off.

The study of coal and tar also laid the groundwork for the rise of synthetic

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dye use. In 1850, coal tar was not widely used. However, it still attracted the attention of a lot of chemists as being a source of new organic compounds.

One of the leading researchers that studied coal and tar was German chemist, August Wilhelm von Hoffman. He directed the Royal College of Chemistry in England in 1845. For the next 20 years, he trained most chemists in the English dye industry including William H. Perkin who discovered the first synthetic dye called mauve. His discovery marks the rise of synthetic dye development and the gradual decline of natural dye use. While mauve only lasted in the market for a short while, its creation paved the way for further research and development of synthetic dyes.

Because of the development of mauve, English textile manufacturers demanded new dyes. Through studies and further development, coal tar was discovered to yield other useful dyes. By 1900, more than 50 compounds have been isolated from coal tar, most of which was used for the German chemical industry. The synthetic dye industry was firmly established in Germany in 1914.

From then on until today, synthetic dyes are still widely used in different

industries. Through the years, continuous efforts and studies were conducted to further develop synthetic dyes, make it more sustainable, expand its use to other fields, and lessen its impact on the environment.

Theory of dyeing The forces that anchor dyestuff molecules to textile fibres are complex and the study of them has attracted many investigators. The process consists of three stages which are : 1Migration of the dye from the solution to the interface accompanied by adsorption on the surface of the fibre 2 Diffusion of the dye from the surface towards the centre of the fibre 3 The anchoring of the dye molecules by covalent or hydrogen bonds, or other forces of the physical nature Dyeing is the process of coloring textile materials by immersing them in an aqueous solution of dye, called dye liquor. Normally the dye liquor consists of dye, water, and an auxiliary. To improve the effectiveness of dyeing, heat is usually applied to the dye liquor. The theory of aqueous dyeing, as explained below, is modified when an organic solvent is substituted for water. The general theory of dyeing explains the interaction between dyes, fiber, water, and dye auxiliary.

More specifically, it explains: Forces of repulsion which are developed between the dye molecules and water. Forces of attraction which are developed between the dye molecules and fibers.

These forces are responsible for the dye molecules leaving the aqueous dye liquor and entering and attaching themselves to the polymers of the fiber.

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March 2020

COVER STORY Dye molecules are organic molecules which can be classified according to the causing part of the color are listed below: i) Anionic: In which the color is caused by the anionic part of the dye molecule. ii) Cationic: In which the color is caused by the cationic part of the dye molecule. iii) Disperse: In which the color is caused by the whole molecule. (i) Acid dyes: The largest class of dyes in the Color index is referred to as Acid dyes. Acid dyes are anionic compounds that are mainly used for dyeing nitrogen-containing fabrics like wool, polyamide, silk, and modified acryl. They bind to the cationic NH4+-ions of those fibres. Most acid dyes are azo (yellow or red) anthraquinone or triarylmethane(blue or green) compounds. The adjective ‘acid’ refers to the pH in acid dye dyebaths rather than to the presence of acid groups (sulphonate, carboxyl) in the molecular structure of these dyes. (ii) Reactive dyes: Reactive dyes are dyes with reactive groups that form covalent bonds with OH-, NH-, or SHgroups in fibres (cotton, wool, silk, nylon). The reactive group is often a heterocyclic aromatic ring substituted with chloride or fluoride. Another common reactive group is vinyl sulphone . In the Color index, the reactive dyes form the second-largest dye class with respect to the number of active entries.

paper, and modified cellulose fibers.

Most mordant dyes are azo, oxazine or triarylmethane compounds. (v) Sulphur dyes: Sulphur dyes are complex polymeric aromatics with heterocyclic S-containing rings.

Dyeing with sulphur dyes involves reduction and oxidation, comparable to vat dyeing. They are mainly used for dyeing cellulose fibres. (vi) Vat dyes: Vat dyes are water-insoluble dyes that are particularly and widely used for dyeing cellulose fibres. The dyeing method is based on the solubility of vat dyes in their reduced form. Reduced with sodium dithionate, the soluble vat dyes impregnate the fibric. Next, oxidation is applied to bring back the dye in its insoluble form. Almost all vat dyes are anthraquinones or indigoids. ‘Vat’ refers to the vats that were used for the reduction of indigo plants through fermentation. (vii) Basic dyes: Basic dyes are cationic compounds that are used for dyeing acid-group containing fibres, usually synthetic fibres like modified polyacryl. They bind to the acid group of the fibres. Most basic dyes are diarylmethane, anthraquinone or azo compounds. (viii) Disperse dyes: Disperse dyes are scarcely soluble dyes that penetrate synthetic fibres (cellulose acetate, polyester, polyamide, acryl, etc.).

Dyeing takes place in dyebaths with fine disperse solutions to these dyes.

Dyeing Machines

(iii) Direct dyes: Direct dyes are relatively large molecules with a high affinity for cellulose fibres. Van der Waals forces make them bind to the fibre. Direct dyes are mostly azo dyes with more than one azo bond.

Different dyeing machines used

(iv) Mordant dyes: Mordant dyes are fixed to fabric by the addition of a mordant, a chemical that combines with the dye and the fibre. Though mordant dying is probably one of the oldest ways of dyeing, the use of mordant dyes is gradually decreasing.

They are used with wool, leather, silk,

4. H. T. H. P. “U” Type Fabric Dyeing Machine/ Scouring Machine

March 2020

1. Beaker Dyeing Machine

9. Maxi Type Jumbo Jigger Machine 10. Winch Machine 11. Hank Dyeing machine 12. Arm Dyeing machine

Beaker Dyeing Machine Beaker Dyeing Machine Atmospheric Pressure Beaker Dyeing Machine is used for high temperature dying of fabric and yarn. This machine is used for sample dyeing of Yarn/ fabrics at a max temperature of 98° C. The machine is model. Models are available on request. * 12 Beakers X 250ml * 6 Beakers X 250ml * 6 Beakers X 500ml * 10 Beakers X 250ml. The equipment is basically a doublewalled stainless steel tank. The inside/ outside tank is of SS 304 Grade sheet & jars are of SS 304 Grade. A motor & a cam – assembly are provided to give to & fro movement to SS rods to which yarn or fabric samples are tied.Superior functioning dyeing machines of reputed make. These dyeing machines are extensively used for dyeing woven and knits fabric of

viscose, silk, lightweight cotton, wool, etc. Available at industrial competitive rates, the range is offered in tamper‐ proof packagings that ensure full protection against damage.

2. Textile Dyeing Machines 3. Multi Nozzle Soft Flow Economical Dyeing Machine

5. IR Beaker Dyeing Machine 6. HTHP Beaker Dyeing Machine 7.U Type Fabric Dyeing Machine 8. Industrial Basket

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COVER STORY Multi Nozzle Soft Flow Economical Dyeing Machine Multi nozzle soft flow economical dyeing machine(fabric / piece dyeing machine)

H. T. H. P. “U” Type Fabric Dyeing Machine / Scouring Machine • Machine pressure vessel and major wet parts made of stainless steel AISI 316 / 316 L highly corrosion-resistant material. Heavy-duty stainless steel centrifugal pump for optional dye liquor circulation. Highly efficient heat exchanger for fast heating and cooling. Features : * One stainless steel filtering device placed in such a way for easy cleaning. * The unique design of jet nozzle can provide a high discharge of liquor with subsequent pressure to ensure fast movement of fabric transport up to 300 mtrs/ Min and the speed of fabric can be. adjusted, required to desire quality * A mirror polished fabric transport perforated basket for easy troublefree movement of fabric from back to the front of the machine, perforated basket fabricated in such a way

that welding part does not come in contact with the fabric. * For preparing chemical, colour kitchen tank is provided made out of stainless steel 316, with required valves for auto dozing.

IR Beaker Dyeing Machine IR Breaker Dyeing machine, came with excellent features this dyeing machine is economical. Functioning includes process control at each step of the process. It measure the temperature of the solution inside the beakers. It requires very low maintenance. The standard machine

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includes special dosing systems for chemical addition and has 50 programs with each having 50 steps.

Other features including • Loading of all types of the beaker in a single carrier • Test washing fastness with an optional beak.

HTHP Beaker Dyeing Machine • HTHP Beaker Dyeing Machine is used for dyeing samples of fabric and yarn at high temperature and high pressure, for all types of synthetic fibres like polyester, viscose, nylon, acrylic, and acetate, which is dyed by disperse dye. All these fibres/ fabric can easily dye by this Sample Beaker Dyeing Machine. Technical Specification: HTHP Glycerin Bath Beaker Dyeing Machine ( Fully SS ) * With Digital Temperature Indicator and Controller * Double walled Structure filled with Mineral Glass Wool Insulation * No. of Heater : 3 x 1500 W * Maximum Temperature 1400C * Maximum rate of heating

U Type Fabric Dyeing Machine.

The specifications are provided as follows: * No pilling effects * No Abrasion * No Foaming problem * No Weight Loss * No distortion * No crease mark & cracking * Even Dyeing Effect * Complete Reel operated * Liquor Ratio 1:3 to 1:5 * Feel of Fabric is retained.

Industrial Basket • Industrial Baskets that are immensely used in textile dyeing plants. • These Baskets using high-grade raw material to ensure their durability, corrosion resistance, and abrasion resistance. • The range is available in variegated sizes and specifications to suit different application

Maxi Type Jumbo Jigger Machine

1.50C * Maximum rate of cooling 1.50C ( Water temperature max 250C ) * Cooling arrangement Through Copper Tube. * Glycerin medium is used for heating. * Limit Switch is provided for Open Door Safety. * Fully SS Body of SS 304 Grade.

U Type Fabric Dyeing Machine

• The technical specifications of Maxi Type Jumbo Jigger Machine are geared to offer maximum efficient and high performance. Making the machine a durable product are the following features ‐ * Gradual Start and Gradual Stop. * The equipment is constructed from AISI 316 Stainless Steel. * The door operates pneumatically. * Large inside viewer windows design incorporated. * Special gasket to seal the steam from escape. * Steam coils in the hood absorb condensate drips. * Circuit pumps the dye liquor for better circulation, a leavening of the dye as well as controlling the flow from the spray pipes for washing and raising. * A large surface area dye filtering area is attached on the outside of the machine. * Dye and Chemicals have different service tanks. * The machine is controlled through the microprocessor

Jiggar Dyeing machine •

It encompasses Jiggar Dyeing

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March 2020

COVER STORY dyeing auxiliary additions are made.

Gradually they move to main dyeing vessel from there. The process works like this first a series of fabric ropes

Machine, a technically superior dyeing machine that is ideal for washing enzymes, denim garments, cotton & woolen clothes. • This precisionengineered device is provided with many advanced features and is acknowledged for its durable finish standards, excellent operational life, and sturdy construction.

Winch Machine • The development of Winch Dyeing Machine, which is widely appreciated for its easy operations, application-specific design, and long-lasting service life. This user‐friendly device is easy to install and has durable finish standards. The body of the machine is fabricated from premium quality Stainless Steel‐304 grade. • Features: • Water inlet and outlet valve • Direct steam coil made of perforated pipe • Machine body made of SS sheets 304 quality • Complete nipple with electric motor standard company • Big Roller made of SS or pipe and small roller made of SS pipe Winch Dyeing Machine • Winch dyeing machines comes with the lucrative options of low cost design, simplicity in operation and maintenace yet uncompromising features when it comes to versatility.

Winch Dyeing machine.

The dyeing machine derives its name “Winch” as the fabric rope gets circulated in the machine by way of mechanical action of a horizontal rotor or reel, called as a winch or sometimes wince. The cross‐section of the winch rotor may be circular or elliptical. The winch dyeing machine has a front compartment, a perforated partition separates it from the main dyeing chamber. It is this front compartment where dyestuff and

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are immersed in the dye bath. This fabric ropes must be of equal lengths.

A part of each rope is then taken over two reels or over the winch itself. In the subsequent course of dyeing operation, a rope of fabric is circulated through the dye bath and the winch. The dyestuff and auxiliaries are dosed manually or automatically according to the recipe method.

Hank Dyeing Machine (Carrier Type) Banking on the rich industrial expertise and knowledge, technically superior Hank Dyeing Machine (Carrier Type) has been engineered, which is easy to install, operate, and has a reliable service life. • This device is developed after thorough research and is widely appreciated for its optimum performance and trouble free service life. Hank Dyeing Machine • The development of Hank Dyeing Machine (Cabinet Type), which is suitable for dyeing Acrylic, Wool, Nylon Jute Cotton. This user friendly is provided with many advanced features and is widely acclaimed for

c temperature • Automatic reversal device for the control of the flow direction • All oxidation outlets are provided with valves and dosing pump • Machine is suitable for vat dyeing and is provided with dye additional tank

Arm dyeing machine Arm dyeing machines are made of corrosion-resistant and is equipped with a low-pressure pump with a variable output. It is suitable for treating delicate yarn such as pure silk, rayon, mercerized, and superfine cotton yarn.

•

Soft Flow Dyeing Machine Soft Flow Dyeing Machine, which ensures even dyeing with low tension and accurate rinsing system. Fabricated as per international quality norms, this device is widely appreciated for hosts of outstanding features like trouble free service life, optimum functionality, and energy efficiency.

Environmental concern

its fast dyeing properties, trouble-free service life, and less maintenance. • Features : Machine is suitable for 98

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Many dyes are visible in the water at concentrations as low as 1 mgL-1.

Textile processing wastewaters, typically with dye content in the range 10 – 200 mgL-1, are therefore usually highly colored and present an aesthetic problem if discharged in open waters. As dyes are designed

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COVER STORY to be chemically and photolytically stable, they are highly persistent in natural environments. The release of dyes may, therefore, present an ecotoxic hazard and introduces the potential danger of bioaccumulation that may eventually affect man by transport through the food chain.

Toxicity of dyestaff Dyestuff toxicity has been investigated in numerous researches. This toxicity (i.e. mortality, genotoxicity, mutagenicity, and carcinogenicity) studies diverge from tests with aquatic organisms (fish, algae, bacteria, etc.) to tests with mammals.

Furthermore, research has been carried out to the effects of dyestuffs and dye-containing effluents on the activity of both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria in wastewater treatment systems2.

dye manufacturing and dye utilizing industries have received attention.

Azo dyes in the purified form are seldom directly mutagenic or carcinogenic, except for some azo dyes with free amino groups. However, the reduction of azo dyes, i.e. cleavage of the dye’s azo linkage(s), leads to the formation of aromatic amines, and several aromatic amines are known as mutagens and carcinogens. In mammals, metabolic activation (= reduction) of azo dyes is mainly due to bacterial activity in the anaerobic parts of the lower gastrointestinal tract. Various other organs, especially the liver and the kidneys, can, however, also reduce azo dyes.

The acute toxicity of dyestuffs is generally low. The most acutely toxic dyes for algae are – cationic – basic dyes. The chance of human mortality due to acute dyestuff toxicity is probably very low. However, acute sensitization reactions by humans to dyestuff often occur. Especially some disperse dyestuffs have been found to cause allergic reactions, eczema or contact dermatitis.

After azo dye reduction in the intestinal tract, the released aromatic amines are absorbed by the intestine and excreted in the urine.

The acute toxic hazard of aromatic amines is carcinogenesis, especially bladder cancer. The carcinogenicity mechanism probably includes the formation of acyloxy amines through N-hydroxylation and N-acetylation of the aromatic amines followed by O-acylation. These acyloxy amines can be converted to nitremium and carbonium ions that bind to DNA and RNA, which includes mutations and tumor formation.

Chronic effects of dyestuffs, especially of azo dyes, have been studied for several decades. Researchers were traditionally mostly focused on the effects of food colorants, usually azo compounds. Furthermore, also the effects of occupational exposure to dyestuffs of human workers in

The mutagenic activity of aromatic amines is strongly related to the molecular structure. In 1975 and in 1982, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) summarized the literature on suspected azo dyes, mainly amino-substituted azo dyes, fat-soluble azo dyes, and

“ 18

benzidine azo dyes, but also a few sulphonated azo dyes. Most of the dyes on the IRAC list were taken out of prosuction.

Generally, stated genotoxicity is associated with all aromatic amines with benzidine moieties, as well as with some aromatic amines with toluene, aniline, and naphthalene moieties. The toxicity of aromatic amines depends strongly on the spatial structure of the molecules or in other words the location of the amine group(s). For instance, whereas there is strong evidence that 2- naphthylamine is a carcinogen, 1naphthalamine is much less toxic. The toxicity of aromatic amines depends furthermore on the nature and the location of the substituents. As an example, the substitution with nitro methyl or methoxy groups or halogen atoms may increase the toxicity, whereas substitution of carboxyl or sulphonate groups generally lowers the toxicity.

As most soluble commercial azo dyestuffs contain one or more sulphonate groups, insight in the potential danger of sulphonated aromatic amines is particularly important. In an extensive review of literature data on genotoxicity and carcinogenicity of sulphonated aromatic amines, it was concluded that sulphonated aromatic amines, in contrast to some of their unsulphonated analogues have generally no or very low genotoxic and tumorigenic potential.

It’s only after you’ve stepped outside your comfort zone that you begin to change, grow, and transform.” ― Roy T. Bennett

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“

March 2020

COVER STORY TEST METHOD

PROCEDURE SUMMARY

AATCC TM 42 – Water resistance: impact penetration test

Similar to AATCC TM 22, but a weighed piece of blotter paper is placed under the fabric. The weight gain of the paper after 500 ml of water has been sprayed on the fabric is recorded.

AATCC TM 35 – Water resistance: rain test

The treated fabric, backed by a weighed piece of blotter paper, is sprayed with water under constant hydrostatic pressure for 5 min. The weight gain of the paper after the test is recorded. This test requires a special apparatus.

Four samples of treated fabric are subjected to simulated rain for 10 min. The fabrics (placed on inclined cups and sealed at the edges) are in constant motion and the side of the fabric not exposed to the rain is subjected to a rubbing action. The repellency of the fabric is determined by the appearance of the wetted side, the amount of water absorbed by the fabric and the amount of water passing through the fabric. This test requires an elaborate special apparatus.

ISO 9865 (DIN 53 888) Bundesmann rain-shower test

AATCC TM 127 and ISO 811 or EN 20 811 – Water resistance: hydrostatic pressure test (former DIN 53886, SchopperSchmerber test)

One surface of the treated fabric is subjected to a constantly increasing hydrostatic pressure until three points of leakage appear on the opposite surface. The pressure at the third point of leakage or is recorded in centimetres or metres on a water gauge. A static pressure variation of this test determines the time until the named leakage occurs at a given pressure. This test requires a special apparatus.

DuPont water repellency test

Similar to AATCC TM 118, but with water-propan2-ol mixtures with increasing alcohol content.

AATCC TM 22-water repellency: spray test

Water sprayed against the taut surface of a treated fabric under controlled conditions produces a wetted pattern. The size of the wetted pattern which depends on the relative repellency of the fabric is compared to a standard chart of fabric water repellency ratings of zero (0), 50, 70, 80, 90 and 100. A rating of zero (0) is assigned if the fabric’s surface is completely wetted by water, whereas a rating of 100 corresponds to no wetting of water on the surface of the fabric

EN 14360–rain test (test method for ready-made garments)

This test method is a European standard that defines test conditions under which ready-made garments are exposed to heavy rain. It applies to garments such as jackets, trousers, coats, etc. This test method does not apply to the testing of garments for resistance to other weather conditions such as snow or strong winds.

Drops of a selected series of water/alcohol solutions of different surface tensions are placed on a treated fabric surface and observed for wetting. This test method is used to evaluate the effectiveness of the finish in imparting a low surface energy on the surface of the treated fabric.

AATCC TM 193-aqueous liquid repellency: water/alcohol solution resistance test

AATCC TM 118-oil repellency: hydrocarbon resistance test

March 2020

Drops of eight selected liquid hydrocarbons of different surface tensions are placed on a treated fabric and observed for wetting. The oil repellency grade of the fabric is the highest numbered test liquid which does not wet the fabric surface with the highest achievable grade being 8. This test method is used to detect the presence of a finish capable of imparting a low energy surface on the treated fabric

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19

COVER STORY

A DISCUSSION PAPER ON CIRCULAR PRACTICES IN THE CHEMICALS AND DYEING SEGMENT IN THE TEXTILE AND APPAREL SECTOR starting from pesticides in fibre cultivation, to use in manufacturing processes and apparel care. The industry uses more than 2000 chemicals in its processes; which amounts to about 25% of all chemicals produced globally. Synthetic dyes contribute to most of the water pollution caused by this industry. Nearly 20% of global water pollution is linked to synthetic dyes. This is caused by the use of non-biodegradable petroleum-based colorants to dye textiles. Also, the use of toxic agents to fix colorants on

RAMANUJ MITRA, Program Officer, Centre for Responsible Business, New Delhi

DEBADITYA DAS, MBA (Final Year), Symbiosis Institute of Management, Bengaluru

DEVYANI HARI, Director (Programs), Centre for Responsible Business, New Delhi -I. Current Status The textile and apparel industry has been designated as the second most polluting industry after petrochemicals. The adverse impact on environment and drain on resources is significant be it water consumption (one cotton shirt could take up to 2700 litres of water1), energy consumption in production processes, excessive use of chemicals (a large part of which are also carcinogenic), discharge of toxic waste and large amounts of post consumption apparel waste being simply sent to the landfills despite the potential to recycle (globally less than 20% of clothing is recycled). In terms of greenhouse gas emissions (GHG) too, the sector is projected to account for 25% of the world’s carbon budget by the year 2050.2 Given that rising demands and fast fashion have impacted ecosystems through GHG as well as pollution, long-ranging interventions are needed. Recognizing the gravity of the situation and the need for action, the European and American brands are beginning to sign up to global commitments and action to contain the rising pollution and waste. Some of these

20

initiatives are Cradle to Cradle certifications3 (following standards on raw material and chemical use, designing clothes meant for reuse and recycle etc.) and circularity commitments as part of the Global Fashion Agenda’s 2020 commitment4. However, focus in developed consumer markets’ has been limited to post-consumer collection and processing of apparel and other textiles waste. For India, even though recycling has to play a big role in diverting apparel and textile waste from landfills, water bodies and incinerators, more emphasis must be laid on the resource intensive manufacturing processes.

India, along with China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia, etc. is one of the biggest hubs of textile and apparel production in the world. In these countries, environmental pollution and poor working conditions in the industry has been a cause for concern since decades.

Dyeing – the main source of pollutants and exploitation of water The use of chemicals in the textile and apparel industry occurs at various stages of the production process,

4 https://globalfashionagenda. com/# the textiles lead to their release into the surrounding ecosystems5.

Globally, around 2 lakh tonnes of chemical dyes are lost as industrial effluents, most of which ends up in the freshwater sources like rivers.

Additionally, dyeing and finishing processes use a lot of water—it is estimated that these processes use over 90% of the total process water requirement in the textile and apparel manufacturing industry (in terms of wastewater discharge).

A few decades ago, when “direct dyeing” was the norm, water use was minimal as the process involved only one cycle of rinsing the fabric in a dye bath—this process had been replaced gradually as the dye tended to fade quickly. This led to the development of “reactive dyeing”.

Advanced chemicals, colourants, and additives were brought into the mix; this enhanced the quality of dyed clothes immensely, but also led to consumption of huge quantities of water. Currently, conventional dyeing can require water as much as 40 times the weight of fabric.

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March 2020

COVER STORY Other factors contributing to pollution from dyes

Lack of segregation, compliance, and necessary capital

Insufficient common infrastructure

Many dyeing and washing units across the country do not comply with regulations demanding that their toxic wastewater must be treated before releasing in the common drain/sewer. This is caused partially due to weak enforcement of regulations, and partially due to lack of capital available for investment.

In CRB’s interaction with dyeing units, it has clearly come to light that in the absence of strict enforcement of regulations on wastewater management, companies that do follow regulations and norms face a clear short-term cost disadvantage.

In many locations, surprise audits and field visits have revealed that units sometimes release their toxic waste into nearby farmlands, in the municipal sewers, or even on roads that

While it is obvious that the primary area of intervention is the chemical agents and dyes used in the sector, there are other chronic structural issues plaguing the industry. Most textile clusters in India dedicated to dyeing and finishing processes (like washing of denim) are served by centralized Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs). These ETPs serve as common infrastructure for most businesses— MSMEs form a large percentage of Indian industry; it would be difficult for individual businesses to treat their wastewater. In spite of the good intentions, these ETPs fail to provide sufficient treatment capacity for the clusters. Most of these facilities were planned decades ago, and are now handling wastewater 2-3 times their rated capacity.

The Panipat cluster was established after India’s Independence, when artisans fleeing from cultural centres like Lahore and Peshawar settled there. It was a major handloom hub, which slowly got transformed into a cluster known for home furnishing and a large recycling industry.

Dyeing units came in various parts of the city. As most of these units lacked water treatment facilities, pollution of soil and groundwater in and around the city became a critical problem. The Sector 29 industrial area, lying on the outskirts of the city, was then designated as the official dyeing cluster of Panipat. All units were shifted there and a CETP was provided according to the estimated capacity at that time (late 1970s and early 80s). Today, Panipat has over 600 dyeing units, and the CETP is grossly insufficient to meet the needs of all of them. There is a need to re-evaluate the suitability of existing infrastructure and take immediate action to provide adequate capacities, failing which environment and water pollution would be impossible to contain.

March 2020

5 Prescouter. Accessed at https:// www.prescouter.com/2018/11/ sustainable-dyeing-innovationsgreener-ways-color-textiles/ on 27 April 2020 are unmonitored. This is especially harmful to municipal ETPs as they aren’t equipped to handle industrial toxins. Microbes that are crucial for municipal water treatment are killed off by the toxins, causing cascading problems in the regional water system. Also, in most dyeing clusters, water from different waste streams are mixed in a single effluent drain which carries it to the ETP. Such mixing of water streams leads to loss of valuable materials like colour pigments, and recoverable chemicals.

Lack of standards for chemical use and inadequate disclosure on chemicals usage At the moment, not much disclosure is made on the use of chemicals in the textile and apparel sector and neither are there any universally accepted standards for preventing use of toxic chemicals. Some form of regulation and control is exerted through Restricted Substance Lists

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that are usually drawn up in response to government regulations. It should be noted that there are some international regulations that aim to control the use and management of toxic chemicals in manufacturing processes. Some of these are EU’s REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals, US’ Toxic substance control act and China’s REACH (MEP order 7)6. However, there is no particular focus on the textile and apparel sector. Further, current initiatives on chemical management are largely focused on denim production only.

II. Trends towards corrective action The need for corrective action to contain and mitigate the adverse impacts on resource consumption and environment in the apparel and textile sector is well established. In India, as well there are several developments that are nudging the sector onto a more sustainable and efficient path. Firstly, the government’s focus on resource efficiency and the draft national resource efficiency policy7 provides an overall guidance on promoting responsible consumption and production. Several state industrial policies integrate the need for reducing resource consumption (material, energy, water), highlight the need for effective waste management especially for toxic & hazardous wastes (air, chemicals, water etc.), and are exploring supportive policies for start-ups that provide sustainable solutions. Large apparel brands (domestic and international) have made commitments towards reducing resource consumption, transitioning to sustainable materials and phasing out waste.

New collaborations and partnerships are being forged to drive this agenda. For e.g. SU.RE8 - a collaboration of leading brands in India to move towards sustainable fashion.

This has clear implications for their supply chains as suppliers will need to develop capacities and initiatives to align to these commitments.

21

COVER STORY Against these developments, circular economy principles provide a robust framework to guide the textile and apparel sectors towards sustainability.

Circular apparel shows the way Circular economy is a regenerative system where material and energy flow in closed-loop, and the concept of “waste” is designed out of the system. All materials in such a system are reused, recycled or repurposed.

Products and services are designed in a way that allows for easy repurpose and recycling. Circular economy in the textile and apparel sector (circular apparel) can provide answers to some of the challenges. Centre for Responsible Business (CRB) has developed a circular apparel framework for identifying priorities for intervention in each segment of the textile and apparel value chain. The framework identifies the following components of circularity in this industry. y Design for closed loops – design of business model, products, production systems and supply chain in a way that encourages closed loop flow of materials and energy y Raw materials – production, procurement and processing of raw material y Chemicals – natural alternatives, processes that minimize chemical use, types of chemicals that minimize water use y Energy – renewable energy, captive power plants, equipment upgradation, energy efficiency y Water – recycling of process water, minimize groundwater use, ZLD y Waste – industrial symbiosis, recycle, reuse, repurpose, minimize process waste, prevention of pollution y Business ecosystem (internal and external) – overall support structure, common infrastructure, socio-political situation, availability of credit, working conditions and facilities for labourers, protocols for operating under emergency conditions.

For the dyeing segment, chemicals,

22

water and waste are the most relevant components, although there are interlinkages and overlaps between components. Based on CRB’s interactions with several stakeholders (large brands, suppliers & manufacturers, chemical experts, start-ups and innovators, research institutes), the following have clearly emerged with regards to use and management of chemicals in the textile and apparel sector: - Need for an industry standard with clear guidelines on use and disposal of chemicals (amongst other things).

Alternatives are available; awareness is required.

Clear regulations on phasing out and banning widely used harmful chemicals.

- Focus on technologies that reduce the need for chemicals or use of water in the manufacturing process. Further, more R&D is needed to identify and promote affordable technologies for wastewater management

Holistic model

changes

in

business

Pursuing circular economy will lead to overall greening of business processes and value chains. Such changes save money, and make the business more resilient to external shocks.

Adoption of low-cost, stand-alone techniques Bodhi, a small block-printing workshop based in Vadodara, Gujarat, runs on the principles of circular economy. Bodhi combines a number of low-cost technological solutions with good labour practices and a long-term sustainability approach. Their rooftop solar installation saves energy costs (and emissions) by preheating boiler water for steam generation. They have a bioremediation facility to recycle process water; this reduces their need for freshwater input. Bodhi has also installed rainwater harvesting system with underground storage, reducing municipal and groundwater use.

Further, they employ artisans and

craftsmen on permanent payroll with fixed salaries. This reduces income uncertainties for its employees during off-season. Workers are hired and trained on-site, where they learn and adapt. Home based embroiders, mostly women, are trained by Bodhi; they are supplied with equipment and raw material and finished goods are transported back by the company.

Innovation in chemicals treatment processes

Innovation in the treatment process

and

effluent

The National Green Tribunal mandated zero liquid discharge from industries in India. A Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) system involves a range of advanced wastewater treatment technologies to recycle, recover and re-use the ‘treated’ wastewater and thereby ensure there is no discharge of wastewater to the environment. To achieve ZLD, common effluent treatment plants (CETP) are established at large scale industries or prominent industrial clusters throughout India. In India, where the industry is highly fragmented, achieving economies of scale in the effluent treatment becomes a challenge. Most of the dyeing industries operate as small clusters and have a wide spread in a region.

Collection and treatment of effluents becomes a huge challenge. There are certain technologies available which makes ZLD systems economically feasible and efficient. A typical ZLD is a multi-component system comprising of three main components: y Pre-treatment Unit (Physico-chemical chemical & Biological) y Reverse Osmosis (Membrane Processes) y Evaporator & Crystallizer (Thermal Process) Adoption of Zero Liquid Discharge Policy in Tirupur Textile Cluster (Tamil Nadu) Tirupur is an important textile cluster in India famous for knitwears and other functional domains to the textile industry. Approximately 3 lakh people

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March 2020

COVER STORY are employed across 500 plus knitting units and 300 plus dyeing units9. It generates approximately 185 MLD of industrial waste water10. Tamil Nadu Water Investment, a Special Purpose Vehicle was formed with 54% of the shareholding between IL&FS and rest with the Government of Tamil Nadu with an aim of providing and supplying potable water to the town and ensuring zero discharge from the industries to pollute the river11.

The CETP system in Tirupur completely eliminates liquid discharge from the system. It ensures recovery of salt and water from the effluents. The recovered salt is then sent back to the industries. The RO plants in the ZLD system recover around 95% of the total permeate water and the MVRE / MEE systems recover and only 0.5% to 1% of the total volume is discharged by solar evaporation pan12. This system recirculates around 95% of the total water back into the system, thus making it an extremely efficient system.

Technological innovation in the dyeing process Use of reclaimed Carbon dioxide in the dyeing process13 This process replaces water with carbon dioxide for the dyeing process.

This carbon dioxide is reclaimed from the industrial processes. As, there is no water involved, so there is no waste water generation, thus making it a closed loop system and while eliminating the operating costs of industrial effluent treatment. DyeCoo based in the Netherlands, developed this process that does not need chemicals to dissolve the dyes. It uses 100% pure dyes and with an uptake of 98%, wastage is minimal, making it a very efficient system. Since this is a dry process, it saves energy by eliminating the need to evaporate water from fabric. Additionally, efficient colour absorption and short batch cycles makes this technology energy efficient. Due to the process being waterless, this dyeing process is

March 2020

independent of geography in terms of water availability.

Hybrid pigments14 This technology developed by Ecofoot uses porous polymer particles. This is composed of a dye chemically linked to a polymer particle that reacts with cellulose fibres below 25°C. This process does not need salt in the dyeing process. So, this eliminates the need for boiling the water for the dyeing process. This also avoids using toxic reducing agents. This system saves more than 50% of water in the intermediate and final rinses, making it an eco-friendly process.

Cotton pretreatment technique This is a fairly common technique used by many industries across the world. Here, cotton is first chemically treated before the dyeing process to get ionic cotton. Dow Inc15 created a chemical for pretreatment of cotton, known as ECOFAST Pure. This is applied prior to the dyeing process to produce cationic cotton. Cationic cotton has a higher affinity towards negatively charged molecules like dyes. This decreases the use of chemicals in the dyeing process by 90%, while the use of dye and water is reduced by 50%. Thus, it meets the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme standards. In another method, developed by Color Zen’s16, the raw cotton fibre is pre-treated using a solution comprising a wetting agent, caustic soda and ammonium salt. The treated raw cotton exhibits increased ability to retain the dye without the need of additional fixation chemicals.

This method reduces the usage of toxic chemicals by 90% and water by 95%.

Innovative dye and auxiliaries Huntsman Textile Effects introduced Avitera dyes, one of the most widely used dyes in chemical dye industries in the Indian subcontinent. These dyes are polyreactive, and readily bond to the raw cotton fiber and are free from p-chloroaniline (PCA). It provides a high reaction and fixation

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rate with cellulosic fiber, leaving very little unfixed dye to be removed by using tri-functional chemical reactivity. It reduces water consumption by 50% and salt consumption by 20%.

Towards sustainable dyeing at Multifabs Ltd. Bangladesh Multifabs Ltd. is an export-oriented knitwear manufacturer and major supplier to Lindex Group, based in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Like its peers in the country, Multifabs Ltd. also used monofunctional reactive dyes that yielded fixation rates as low as 50-60% and consumed substantial amounts of resources. Lindex to have sustainable sourcing of its products. As a result, Multifabs Ltd. switched to multifunctional dyestuffs.

Multifunctional dyestuffs provide a high reaction and fixation rate with cellulosic fiber, leaving very little unfixed dye. This reduced the need of rinsing. They realized the benefits of sustainability and achieved lower operating costs. With this shift, they were able to reduce the water usage by 24 liters per kilogram of fabric as the rinsing requirement was reduced.

The processing time also got reduced from 10.05 hours per tonnes to 9.15 hours per tonnes. They were able to save energy usage by 1.7 kWh/ Kg fabric in the dyeing process as the requirement for groundwater extraction was reduced. There was reduction in the treatment costs of wastewater due to 15% - drop in the BOD and COD levels.

Herbal dye These dyes are made from natural colour pigments sourced from the products of plants.

The colour pigment formed is made a solution and the fabrics are dipped in the solution for dyeing. The colours are natural, lustrous and have good endurance. Most of the products used are organic. The common myth associated with these herbal products is that they don’t have any adverse impact on the environment.

The reality is that they have low impact but not certainly ‘no impact’.

Power dyes from textile fibers

23

COVER STORY These dyes are manufactured by converting the textile wastes into pigments. Natural chemicals, fabric fibers are crystallized through sophisticated techniques into an incredibly fine powder that can be used as a pigment dye for fabrics.

This dye is applied as a suspension rather than as a solution in case of most of the other dyes, making it easier to filter the effluent. This technique was developed by an Italian company called Officina+39.

The biggest benefit of this dye is the flexibility in its application technique.

It can be applied to fabrics using various methods like exhaustion dyeing, dipping, spraying, screen printing, and coating.

III. Way Forward The apparel and textile sector has

already initiated a move towards more sustainable and circular practices. While it will require a shift in mindsets, capacity building, strengthening of the eco-system (availability of finance, new technologies, policy incentives, clear regulations etc.) to make this movement more widespread; it cannot be denied that these aspects of sustainability can no longer be ignored. In fact, the current pandemic which has resulted in massive disruption to production and consumption, will lead to change in consumer behaviour. It can be fully expected that focus will be on healthier and more sustainable options and the trend will be on greater transparency and traceability on products, their origins and the use of harmful substances if any. Brands will focus on sustainable supply chains and

government regulations will tighten to support environment-friendly production practices. The good news is that there are alternatives available for more responsible production and now is the opportunity to build greater business resilience through these cleaner and greener practices.

It is time to hit the reset button and adopt models and partnerships that help us future-proof ourselves and help move towards a more sustainable world for all.

CRB (www.c4rb.org) is a think-tank that undertakes policy and action oriented research on issues of sustainability. As one of its focus areas, CRB is undertaking work on inclusive policy making on Circular Apparel. For more details on our work on Circular Apparel, please contact: ramanuj@c4rb.in

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Intexso’s state-of-the-art manufacturing plant situated near Mumbai is equipped with multipurpose reactors and has a capacity to produce 10,000 tonnes per annum.

A high tech in-house R&D Centre constantly develops products which comply with the latest ecological requirements. All the products comply with the requirements of REACH as well as Oeko-Tex 100 certification. All key products for cotton processing are GOTS approved.

Intexso is an exclusive distributor for HEIQ Materials AG and a distributor for Nouryon for its colloidal silica products under the brand name Levasil® Intexso’s vision is to be the preferred supplier through innovative quality products, superior customer service and competitive pricing.

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24

TEXTILE PRODUCTS WE OFFER : Pre-treatment Products Dyeing & Printing Auxilliaries Finishing Products Specialties

avinash.orpe@intexsobiochem.com vinod.naganur@ intexsobiochem.com hpshetty@intexsobiochem.com

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March 2020

COVER STORY

NOVATIC MD VAT DYES ULTIMATE CHOICE OF CONTINUOUS DYERS V R SAI GANESH, ARINDAM CHAKRABORTY, JIGNESH BILIMORIA Atul Ltd (Colors Business) Introduction In the global Textile industry, India occupies a prominent position. The size of India’s Textile market as of November 2017 was around US$ 150 bn, which is expected to touch US$ 223 bn by 2021, growing at a CAGR of 10.14% between 2009-21E. Enhanced per capita income, favorable demographics, a shift in preference to branded products, increased penetration of organized retailers, increasing investment by the government under the scheme for Integrated Textile Parks, abundant availability of raw materials (cotton, wool, silk, jute) and Policy support are the major factors for boosting demand.

Textile industry plays a vital role in the Indian economy through its contribution to the export earnings (15% in 2017-18), employment generation (~21%) and overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP) (~14%). The fundamental strength of the textile industry in India is its strong production base of a wide range of fibre | yarns from natural fibres like cotton, jute, silk, wool to regenerated |man-made fibres like viscose, polyester, nylon, acrylic, etc. Textile is an integral part of human life, a basic necessity for maintaining modesty, providing protection, and improving aesthetics.

Designed to meet the highest performance standards, vat-dyed goods are widely used in the following important segments: • Workwear | Uniforms (Military camouflage | Police| Fire-brigade | School) • Hospital use (Bed sheet, Towels, Surgical clothing) • Fast to Light and Weather outerwear • High-end Shirtings | Bottoms | Sportswear • Household articles (Towels | Bed linen| Curtains | Upholstery fabrics) • Sewing threads • Outdoor use (Tents, Awnings, Parasols)

Importance of Vat dyes Contribution of the wet processing operation is massive in colouration industries and fastness properties are the major quality parameters demanded by the end-users.

Though reactive dyes are widely used for dyeing of cellulosic substrates, the impact of Vat dyes is enormous due to their highest level of fastness properties and with an understanding that ‘colour lasts till the fibre lasts’.

Vat dyes display following major advantages in terms of fastness properties over other classes of dyes: • Highest light as well as weathering fastness • Superior perspiration lightfastness • Stable to repeated laundering in detergents containing bleach activators • Outstanding chlorine fastness • Good dry-cleaning fastness • Superior benzoyl peroxide fastness • Excellent fastness to oxidative bleach

March 2020

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The estimated segment-wise application of vat dyes is presented in Figure 1:

Continuous dyeing - Importance and overview Fierce competition due to the globalization of the textile supply chain has forced the dyers to increase overall production efficiencies by reducing costs of power | water | steam | effluent treatment. The key initiatives to achieve economies of scale include machinery

25

COVER STORY modernization, technology up-gradation, innovative application techniques, cost-optimized processing, and increasing production capacities. Sustainability concept, eco-regulations, optimization of cost, stringent quality norms and evolving fashion trends have also forced the dyers to accept a quantum shift in the processing technologies. Only shifting from batch-wise application to continuous processing supports the processors to enhance the productivity as well as to achieve a reduction in utility | effluent treatment cost. So, the reasons for opting continuous dyeing include • Enhanced productivity • Uniformity of shades in long yardages • Better process control • Better reproducibility • Production flexibility • Low utility cost Table 1 shows the qualitative comparison of continuous dyeing against conventional exhaust dyeing operation: +

Advantageous Table 1: Qualitative comparison – Continuous vs Exhaust dyeing No

Feature

Exhaust

Continuous

+

+++

1

Productivity

2

Reproducibility

++

+++

3

Dyeing cycle time

+

+++

4 5

Longer run of fabric Uniformity of dyeing

+ ++

+++ ++

6

Penetration of colour

++

+++

7

Cost of steam

+

++

8

Cost of water

+

++

9

Cost of labour

+

+++

10

Spot correction during dyeing

++

+

11

Cost of machine

++

+

12

Re-dyeing

++

+

++

More Advantageous

+++

Most Advantageous

center-selvage variation, face-back variation, tailing, laboratory-to-bulk and bulk-to-bulk reproducibility, inadequate fastness properties, crease marks, etc. In this context, the significance of the quality parameters of Vat dyes is enormous. Atul Ltd, a member of the prestigious Lalbhai group, is a pioneer in the manufacturing of NOVATIC range of Vat dyes. With the state-of-art manufacturing infrastructure, dedicated R&D, stringent quality standardization norms, and environmental protection facilities, Atul Ltd has secured significant position globally.

Atul Ltd offers NOVATIC MD range of Vat dyes, which play a major role to achieve trouble-free dyeing | RFT performance in continuous dyeing operation.

NOVATIC MD range – superior Vat dyes for continuous dyeing The innovative NOVATIC MD Vat dyes are specially designed for application by continuous dyeing method on cellulosic substrates and their blends, to satisfy customer’s desired rigorous requirements for meeting the most demanding specifications of retailer | brands.

These dyes are suitable for a wide shade spectrum and satisfy stringent | critical fastness requirements as per various international standards.

The salient features and associated benefits are summarized in Table 2: For ensuring quality parameters of the prestigious Table 2: Features and Benefits – NOVATIC MD Vat dyes

Features Nondusting powder Superfine, micro-molecular particle size foaming and non-mal odorous Uniform build-up High dye migration

Continuous dyeing with Vat dyes

Minimal staining on Polyester Optimal thermal stability Stringent quality norms High fastness parameters

Benefits Ready to use formulation Speck free performance Ease of reduction and handling Ease of shade matching Reproducibility and uniform level dyeing Colour solidity in Polyester| Cellulose blends Minimal shade change during finishing Consistency and reproducibility in dyeing Meets critical end use requirements

NOVATIC MD range, each and every manufactured blend is passed through several specified stringent quality control checkpoints and standardisation norms.

For Continuous dyeing with Vat dyes, Pad – Dry – Chemical Pad – Steam (PDPS) process is widely used around the globe. The schematic diagram is presented in Figure 2:

The salient features of NOVATIC MD dyestuffs are furnished below:

Figure 2: Continuous dyeing with Vat dyes

Continuous dyeing helps to minimize the impact of water, energy, effluent treatment costs; poor reproducibility, and enhances per person productivity. Controlled continuous dyeing with Vat dyes is considered to be an effective method for producing large volumes of consistently dyed quality fabric satisfying stringent and critical fastness properties.NOVATIC MD range of specialty Vat dyes offers a tailor-made solution to satisfy stringent performance as well as colour fastness expectations of the end-users.

Though advantageous and highly recommended process, some common problems in PDPS dyeing are occasionally encountered by the dyer, viz color specks | patches, non-solid appearance, poor penetration of dyestuffs,

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Summary

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COVER STORY NOVATIC MD

• • • •

Salient features The bright greenish-yellow component Recommended for high light and wet fastness properties No catalytic fading of green | blue dyes Recommended oxidation pH: 7 - 8

•Widely used as a shading component for uniform shades •Very high lightfastness •Causes catalytic fading of NOVATIC Jade Green XBN MD when yellow to green

ratio 7.5:1 is exceeded

•Basic trichromatic component •Finds widespread use in khaki and olive shades •General yellowing component •Good all-round fastness properties •Bright orange component •Ideal for pure, bright orange shades with excellent light and wet fastness

properties

•High standard all-round fastness properties •Ideal shading dye for combination shades •Suitable for bleach style, laundered goods, and furnishing •Recommended blue component for continuous dyeing •Outstandingleveling property| least susceptibility to over-reduction •Excellent overall fastness property: suitable for laundered goods, furnishings

and all-weather qualities

•The basis for navy shades •Excellent build-up property •Addition of 2-3 g/l sodium nitrite in a chemical bath prevents over-reduction •Classic green component for all fast outlets •An excellent basis for beige, khaki and brown shades •Superior performance in continuous dyeing •Reddish-brown component •Addition of sodium nitrite (2-3 g/l) in chemical pad liquor is recommended •An excellent basis for dark brown and tan shades •Outstanding all-round fastness properties: suitable for bleach fast styles, laundered goods, furnishing and all-weather qualities

•Good level dyeing property

•The basis for olive shades •Excellent all-round fastness properties including lightfastness •Ideal homogeneous grey component for continuous dyeing •Good all-round fastness properties •Bluish-black shade with excellent build-up property •Fast to coloured bleaching, washing, light, and weathering References 1.India Brand Equity Foundation (IBEF); www.ibef.org; March 2019 2.Athalye A, Chakraborty A, and Shirke V; Colourage; September 2008; p. 82

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COVER STORY

APPLICATIVE INNOVATIONS IN ACID DYES 4. Triphenylmethane 5. Xanthane

DR BHAVYA MODI Vice President – R&D at Rathi Dye Chem (P) Ltd

6. Azine

Multinational Color Technologist

6. Quinaline

Those dyes applied in a bath containing mineral or organic acid like Sulphuric acid, acetic acid or formic acid and are sodium salts or organic acids in nature are called ACID DYES.

Acid Dyes • Affix to substrates by hydrogen bonding, Van der Waals forces and ionic bonding • Applied in three ways, 1) Using weak acids like acetic acid, formic acid etc. called WA dyes likeAzo, hetero Azo, AQ, 2:1-symmetric metal complex acid dyes etc.

2) Using strong acids like HCl, Sulphuric acid etc. called SA dyes like 1:1-metal complex acid dyes etc.

3) Using no acid called neutral exhaust dyes called NE dyes like 2:1-asymmetric metal complex dyes etc.

Properties of Acid Dyes: y Soluble in water y Easily applied on wool, silk and nylon fibers y Generally applied in the presence of acids like Sulphuric, acetic or formic acid. y In some cases, soluble in alcohol. y Decolorized when treated with a reducing agent y Usually combined with basic dyes. y Good light fastness y Moderate washing fastness y Moderate leveling characteristics Classification of Acid Dyes according to the leveling characteristics

A) Acid dyes with good leveling characteristics This type of acid dye is responsible

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for their good leveling characteristics. As the dye molecules have less attraction for the fiber they will migrate slowly into the polymer systems of wool or nylon fibers.

However to overcome this substantivity problem, adequate exhausting agent (Sulphuric acid) is added to the dye liquor. Their lack of substantive is evidence by their poor wash fastness. However the light fastness is very good to excellent.

B) Acid dyes with average leveling characteristics The moderate substantive of this type of acid dye is responsible for average leveling characteristics. To obtain sufficient substantive and to ensure it, adequate exhausting agent, a week acid (Acetic acid or Formic acid) is added to the dye bath.

The washing fastness of these dyes is fair, whilst their light fastness is good to very good.

C) Acid dyes with poor leveling characteristics These dyes are also known as fast acid dyes, and milling dyes or natural dyeing acid dyes. They have the best substantive of all the acid dyes, but have relatively poor leveling characteristics. Proper care has been taken during dyeing otherwise it may result in to too rapid uptake and consequently unleveled dyeing.

Classification of Acid Dyes according to their chemical constitution 1. Nitro 2. Nitroso 3. Azo – mono, dis, tris, poly a) Acid leveling b) Acid milling

7. Ketorenine 8. Anthraquinone Dyes

9. Metal Complex Dyes a) 1:1- Metal complex b) 1:2-Asymetric metal complex c) 1:2-Symetric metal complex d) 1:2-Mix metal complex

First clarify the term, what is meant by leveling and milling Acid leveling dyes: They are planar dyes, tend to be small or medium sized, and show moderate inter-molecular attractions for wool fibers. This means that the dye molecules can move fairly easily through the fibers and achieve an even color. However, the low affinity means that these dyes are not always very resistant to washing.

Acid milling dyes: They are larger than acid-leveling dyes, and show a much stronger affinity for wool fibers. Because of this, the resultant color may be less even, but they are much more resistant to washing.

Now, come to important innovations part, which of course, add value to our manufacturing. Innovations depend upon market requirements.

Generally, in Industry we had been asked by our clients

CAN YOU SUGGEST SOME ACID DYES FOR SUCH APPLICATIONS CAN YOU SUGGEST PARTICULAR SHADES FOR SUCH APPLICATIONS then automatically this sentence

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COVER STORY is circulated/e-mailed to R&D department from marketing department and then R&D department starts functioning on that.

R&D Department must know which type of chemical constitution and which category has been used in which applications although all acid dyes applied in wool, silk, nylon, polyamide fibers without any doubt.

If they know then it is very much easy to offer Acid Dyes to our client and click business immediately without any discussion.

Acid Dyes has been divided according to their application into following categories, as per my knowledge and experience: 1. Acid Dyes for wood staining 2. Acid Dyes for coloration of carpet 3. Acid Dyes for wood coating 4. Acid Dyes for exterior finish of Aluminium 5. Acid Dyes for double face woven cloths 6. Acid Dyes for fur dyeing 7. Acid Dyes for ink formulations 8. Acid Dyes for jute dyeing 9. Acid Dyes for thermal stable applications 10. Acid Dyes for paper coloration 11. Acid Dyes for polyamide printing 12. Acid Dyes for silk dyeing and printing 13. Acid Dyes for leather coloration 14. Acid Dyes for wool dyeing Now, we will discuss all value added applications one by one.

1. Acid Dyes for wood staining:

Wood pieces are often decorated to add color and appeal. Wood products are often imparted with a wood-tone stain to enhance the natural grain or add depth or tone to the wood. Stain may alter the color and appearance of the wood or hide unattractive grain. Stains are available in a variety of wood tones, including very light, semi-transparent stains to dark, nearly opaque stains.

For this applications, generally those acid dyes which has poor washing fastness been used.

3. Acid Dyes for wood coating:

For these applications, generally solvent soluble acid dyes have been used.

Regardless of solvent, stains generally penetrate only the top layers of the wood. Thus, the stain can be stripped and sanded away, revealing the original color of the wood. Stain must be top coated or finished, meaning that once it is dry, some kind of surface finish is applied to protect the wood surface and stain from moisture, scratches, unwanted stains, dirt, and chemicals.

2. Acid Dyes for coloration of carpet:

They are selected metal complex acid dyes.

They are desalinated by a special process and are supplied in a1-methoxy-2-propanol or 1-ethoxy2-propanol solution form. The basic characteristics of these liquid dyestuffs are good light fastness, good over lacquering resistance, very good compatibility with a wide variety of solvents, good storage stability, low viscosity, fast drying and ease of use.

Storage stability: -remain unchanged after 9 months storage at room temperature.

If you want your carpets to take on a new look and don’t want to spend the money to replace them you should consider carpet dye. It’s a low cost alternative that will give your carpet a total face lift.

Both nylon and wool carpets can be dyed. Polyester, polypropylene, and acrylic cannot be dyed. The current color of your carpet will determine what color you can dye your carpet.

For example, if your carpet is red and yellow dye and you would get an orange carpet. Or if your carpet was blue and you added red, you would get a purple carpet. White and light

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beige carpet can be dyed any color but you can never get a deep black.

You can never go lighter when dyeing carpet, only darker.

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-remain unchanged after 1 day’s storage at +3˚C -show some precipitation after 8 day’s storage at +3˚C and gel after 1 day’s storage at -10˚C -gelling and precipitation is reversible by heating to 45˚C

Solvent compatibility: The solvent compatibility was tested for stains containing 3% of liquid dye (delivery form) in the test solvent. The condition of the solution immediately after the formulation and after 30 days’ storage at room temperature

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COVER STORY was evaluated.

4. Acid Dyes for coloration of Aluminium:

Those Acid Dyes having excellent exceptional light and heat fastness characteristics has been used for exterior finish of Aluminium.

5. Acid Dyes for double face woven cloths:

For this application, generally Azo or metal complex non-bleeding dyes has been used.

8. Acid Dyes for jute dyeing:

6. Acid Dyes for dyeing of fur skins:

Acid Dyes especially selected for dyeing fur skins because of the following properties: • good exhaustion at 60–65 °C • good combinability at this temperature • only light staining of the leather • similar fastness properties • trichromatic shades For this application, generally nitro, Nitroso, Azo and anthraquinonoid acid dyes have been used.

7. Acid Dyes for ink formulations:

Jute is a ligno-cellulosic, composite natural bast fiber.

Cellulose, hemi-cellulose and lignin are its major constituent components & its three dimensional structure is formed by different inter and intra-molecular forces resulted from various physical, chemical, and hydrogen bonds, between them. The commercial fiber consists of hairy strands of cylindrical networks of ultimate jute fiber. Properly retted and washed jute fibers are fairly lustrous with moderate strength but rough to touch. The color of the fiber also varies from creamy white to brown.

Golden fiber, jute, is now being utilized for a number of values added and diversified products as it has not lost its glitter.

Traditional use of jute fabric i.e., sacking and hessian will continue for its use as packaging material, carpet backing, etc.

Double cloth or double weave (also double cloth, double-cloth) is a kind of woven textile generally sheep skin in which two or more sets of wraps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-layered cloth. The movement of threads between the layers allows complex patterns having two right sides or faces and no wrong side, and includes most trend-setting fashion (haute couture) coats, blankets, furnishing fabrics and some brocade.

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They are generally water-based & solvent-based as well as water-solvent mix highly purified liquids, ready-todissolve high-purity powders, high-strength crude powders and crude wet press cake. Suitable for ink-jet printers, ink pads, rollerpoint pens, permanent, erasable and fluorescent markers and other specialty applications. Generally used in trichromatic forms for colored ink.

For this application, generally salt free acid dyes have been used.

Nontraditional use furnishing textiles textiles will increase to its eco-friendly and character.

in curtains, and apparel gradually due biodegradable

So, modification of feel and look of the fabric has become essential depending on the end use requirement resulting in increasing the demand for bright, wash fast and light fast jute fabric.

For this application, those acid dyes have good light fastness have been used.

It is our privilege to know that Indian

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COVER STORY Jute crafts are much more demand all over the world. They are not only essential part of Indian culture but they earn substantial foreign exchange through exports.

9. Acid Dyes for thermal stable applications:

addition of fixing agents. They are not preferred for neutral or alkaline sizing.

Anionic acid dyes preferred for light & deep shades made of recycled, mechanical, bleached & unbleached pulps & in segment where fastness requirements are not high.

11. Acid Dyes for polyamide printing:

To reveal the effect of acid dyes on the melt processing of recycled nylon 66, we found few acid dyes suitable to dye a molten nylon 66 yarn. The thermal stability of dyestuffs, the thermal degradation of the dyed nylon was tremendously excellent. During melt processing (melting temperature 255° C), mostdyed nylon 66 changed color strength and color pattern. Few acid dyes have severe impact on the thermal stability of nylon 66 and also the existence of acid dye in nylon 66 does not influence the melting temperature of nylon 66 but some acid dyes reduce the crystallization temperature of molten nylon 66.

Generally, metal complex dyes having no solubilizing groups or less solubilizing groups are more suitable as thermostatic acid dyes.

10. Acid Dyes for paper coloration:

13. Acid Dyes coloration:

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for

leather

The dyes were selected on the basis of their high resistance to migration.

The migration resistance depends on the type of re-tannage and fat-liquor, the quantity of dye applied and the type of dyeing process used, as well as on the selection of the correct dye.

Generally, all milling and metal complex acid dyes used but those having higher resistance to migration are preferable.

Acid Dyes are used in printing on nylon 6 satin fabric but in this case fastness properties have no bar but dischargeability is important.

Generally, dischargeable milling Azo dyes are used.

12. Acid Dyes for silk dyeing and printing:

Acid Dyes do not have affinity for cellulose, but are precipitated by the addition of alum & rosin size in beater. They give good level dyeing properties and generally the backwater of Acid Dyes is colored which can be minimized by the

Generally, all milling and metal complex acid dyes used in dyeing and printing of silk but more importance in silk printing is 1:1- metal complex.

Acid Dyes are used in dyeing and printing of silk fabric but in this case light fastness is more important.

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14. Acid Dyes for wool dyeing: Those dyes build up from a Sulphuric/ formic acid bath have remarkably good migration power which makes level dyeing easily attainable, have high light fastness, moderate wet fastness properties.

Those dyes are applied from weakly acid medium have the same dyeing properties. Consequently they show excellent compatibility in combination, which together with their notably good leveling properties and all round fastness make them particularly suitable for yarn and

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COVER STORY piece dyeing.

Those dyes are applied from a neutral to weakly acid bath and find their major uses for dyeing brilliant shades and as brightening elements for 2:1 metal complex dyestuffs. Certain

members of the range have extremely high wet and light fastness. They are most often dyed in self-shades and in binary combinations.

depth, excellent dyeing behavior in combination, simple method of application and uniform dyeing on different wool qualities.

2:1-metal complex dyestuffs exhibit good light fastness down to pale

Generally, all acid dyes used for wool dyeing.

ALKYLPHENOL ETHOXYLATE THE TROUBLING BUBBLE DR. RUMA CHAKRABARTI The Troubling Bubble Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) are non-ionic surfactants, which are widely used as wetting agents, emulsifiers, and dispersants in paints and coating, residential and commercial cleaning products, in pesticide formulations, and in textile and paper processing.

The most important APEO for the textile/clothing industry are Nonyl Phenol Ethoxylates(NPEO) and Octyl Phenol Ethoxylates, which contribute to 80 and 20% respectively of the total worldwide APEO production.

APEO Threat/ Concerns: APEOS have been the subject of much discussion and controversies from almost the past three decades. The concerns pertain to the following three areas: a. Their life cycle assessmentindicates long term continued environmental contamination. APEOs degrade slowly and have a tendency to bio-accumulate. b. They are toxic to aquatic organisms and an endocrine disruptorin higher animals, and hence pose a risk to the human population. c. They are present particularly everywhere. They are in spot cleaners, dust in our homes, in human blood, urine, in breast milk, incanned food, paints, couches …. Etc.

identified as an EDC(Endocrine disrupting chemicals).

Endocrine disruptors are chemicals that interfere in some way with hormone action and in so doing can alter endocrine function such that it leads to adverse effects on human and wildlife health.The diverse systems affected

by EDCs likely include all hormonal systems and range from those controlling the development and function of reproductive organs to the tissues and organs regulating metabolism and satiety. Effects on these systems can lead to obesity, infertility or reduced fertility, learning andmemory difficulties, diabetes or cardiovascular disease, as well as a variety of other diseases

FFigure 2: Structure of Nonylphenol and 17 β -Estradiol

The metabolites of APEO, are able to mimic hormones and also are persistent in the environment.

4-para-nonylphenol (a metabolite of NPEO) with a branched alkyl chain, strongly resembles the natural hormone 17-β – Estradiol and is capable of mimicking this hormone in vitro and in vivo. The low specificity of the oestrogen receptor allows hormone-mimicking substances, like NP, to enter and place itself in the receptor, provoking a response in the endocrine system. igure 1: Effect of APEO on Aquatic Environment

APEOs after use is discharged into the aquatic environment and degrades into Alkyl phenols which have been

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17-β -Estradiol is a hormone important in reproduction and hence interference from resembling substances can have serious consequences on entire populations of organisms, causing problems such as feminisation of the

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COVER STORY male fractions.

A study conducted in the US has found that about 85 percent of male smallmouth bass collected in national wildlife refuges in the Northeastern U.S. had eggs were growing in their testes. Pollutants that mimic sex hormones are the suspected culprit.

Regulations Concerning APEOs: In Europe the use of NPEO has been banned or voluntarily restricted since 1986. Germany has forbidden t he use ofA PEO in detergents since 1998. The NP / NPEO requirements of the European Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006 of REACH, Annex XVII , requires that , such products shall not be placed on the market or used as a substance or constituent of preparations in concentrations equal or higher than 0.1% by mass.

Textile eco-labels as the EU flower and Oeko-Tex 100 have also forbidden the use of APEO in the production of certified products. .APEO is one of the 11 priority chemicals that has been listed to be phased out by ZDHC in their roadmap ZDHC 2020.

Renewed interest in APEO came into being, when Green peace international publicly declared their investigation report,where they found a broad range of hazardous chemicals in children’s clothing and footwear produced by eight luxury fashion brands. This body of evidence formed the framework for Greenpeace “DETOX ” campaign, which challenged global sportswear and fashion brands to eliminate all hazardous chemicals from their supply chain and products.

This challenge was taken up by the brands and hundreds and thousands of people across the globe and they made individual commitments to ZDHC(Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) by 2020.

In a nutshell: a. APEO is released mainly through effluent discharge. b. Degrade by the loss of ethoxy compounds into non degradable compounds c. Degraded products are EDC (Endocrine Disrupting Compounds) d.They mimic hormones and cause hormonal disturbance in aquatic animals. e.Their usage is banned both under gOTS and OEKO Tex

DYEING TEXTILES WITHOUT WATER SWATI PATALI B.Sc in Textile Apparel Designing

tory and heart d i s e a s e every year by burning coal for energy.

Most of the world’s textile factories are in developing countries where governments can’t keep pace with the industry’s massive pollution footprint.

The apparel industry is one of the biggest polluters on the planet.

The apparel industry is one of the biggest polluters on the planet.

Textile mills generate one-fifth of the world’s industrial water pollution and use 20,000 chemicals, many of them carcinogenic, to make clothes.

Chinese textile factories alone produce about three billion tons of soot air pollution linked to respira-

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Textile mills generate one-fifth of the world’s industrial water pollution and use 20,000 chemicals, many of them carcinogenic, to make clothes. Chinese textile factories alone produce about three billion tons of soot air pollution linked to respiratory and heart disease every year by burning coal for energy.

Most of the world’s textile factories are in developing countries where governments can’t keep pace with the industry’s massive pollution footprint.

NRDC’s Clean By Design initiative works with major apparel retailers and brands by using their buying power as leverage to clean up the factories in their supply chains. Our experts study textile mills abroad and identify simple ways to reduce pollution and cut water, chemical, and energy use while saving money.

Through the program, we promote a 10-step process designed to reduce

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COVER STORY

the hottest spot of the industry’s environmental impact: dyeing and finishing. As we encourage factories to adopt these best practices to save water, fuel, and electricity, we also push them to track water, steam, and electricity use.

As we continue to see success, we are reaching more factories and providing innovative training to drive changes. As we add more multinational apparel retailers and brands in the program, we are also promoting better sourcing programs that consider environmental performance when qualifying and evaluating

and treat fabric, producing ongoing and ever-worsening water pollution.

In the mid-twentieth century, new Fibres such as nylon and polyester were developed. These new “high tech” Fibres were difficult to dye, so even more chemicals were added to water baths to carry the dyes.

These chemicals often ended up in the world’s lakes, rivers, and oceans, causing horrific damage.

What’s more, traditional dyeing uses an astonishing amount of water.

Amounts vary, but coloring fabric can take anywhere from 56 to 600 times the weight of the fabric in water (that’s 7 to 75 gallons of water per pound of fabric). Traditional dyeing pollutes, and it continues to consume vast amounts of the world’s increasingly scarce supply of fresh water.

The dyeing of synthetic textiles consumes 2.4 trillion gallons of water a year, enough to fill 3,700,000 Olympic-sized swimming pools. It also uses more than 2.8 trillion mega joules of energy per year, enough to power more than 12 percent of the homes in the United States each year.

Finally, textile dyeing produces 568 million metric tons of greenhouse gases (GHG) annually, more than 94 million passenger vehicles emit each year.

Air-Dye technology answer to a 4,000-year-old problem: Air-Dye technology is a revolutionary new way to carry dye to fabric and other mediums. The result is luxuriously brilliant color and a world-changing

suppliers.

DYEING – TOXIC FROM THE START UNTIL AIR-DYE Four thousand years ago man used water to carry dye to a piece of fabric. Early water pollution was born. Since then, more and more chemicals have been added to color

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positive impact on our planet’s energy and water shortage.

WHAT IS AIR-DYE? The new emerging technology of

dyeing; which is a really enthusiastic for Indian textile industries.

Indian textile processing one of the highly water consuming industries , Such technologies have reached the international advanced level and meet the state emission-reduction and energy-saving requirements for environment-protection products and new technologies of the textile industry, producing a good economic and social benefit and making a positive contribution to the energy-

saving and emission-reduction work.

This technology also reduces the effluent load. This new technology called as “AIRDYE”.

AirDye technology manages the application of color to textiles without the use of water. It was developed and patented by Colorep, a California-based sustainable technology company. Depending on the fabric, and type of dyeing, AirDye uses up to 95% less water, and up to 86% less energy, contributing 84% less to global warming, according to an independent assessment requested by the company. AirDyed fabrics do not leach colors or fade as easily as vat dyed fabrics, because the dye is actually inside the fibers.

The process of making textiles can require several dozen gallons of water for each pound of clothing. The AirDye process employs air instead of water to help the dyes penetrate fibers, a process that uses no water and requires less energy than traditional methods of dyeing; the technology works only on synthetic materials and is currently available only in the United States.

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COVER STORY recipes that will reproduce the specified color reflectance curve on a target substrate. Managing color as a reflectance curve across the visible light spectrum, Air-Dye can create a color match under a specific lighting condition, and can even create non

HOW DOES IT WORK? Conventional dyeing, such as vat dyeing or cationic dyeing, can produce visually acceptable results.

On the down side, it uses polluting chemicals, a huge amount of precious water, and does not provide permanent coloration. Sublimation printing has been used to decorate synthetic textiles, but this process has limited application.

Air-Dye technology produces superior results compared to sublimation printing and conventional dyeing, but that is just the beginning of its advantages. Air-Dye technology also reduces detrimental impacts on the environment. because the dye is in the Fibre rather than on the Fibre, bleach and cleaning agents can’t get to it; so colors look richer and last longer. The result is more beautiful colors and maximum color durabil-

ity, with substantially less water and discharged chemicals.

AIR-DYE TECHNOLOGY Air-Dye operates and licenses patented textile printing machines that color one or both sides of the fabric simultaneously and with independent color control. No water is used in this process and no post-treatment or finishing is required. Unlike traditional heat transfer printing, the Air-Dye process is 2-sided and the hand feel of the finished fabric is luxurious and clean.

Unlike rotary screen wet printing, it is possible to independently color each side of the fabric and no water is used in the dyeing or finishing. This process creates new design capabilities, including the ability to contrast (or match) two sides of the same fabric with solids or prints.

Through proprietary software, Air-Dye drives digital and analog printing/dyeing through the interpretation, formulation, and application of color recipes to match the mathematically-objective reflectance curve of the target colors, including tonal and fall-on colors.

Rather than working from a “color library” or trying to match “color profiles,” Air-Dye computes color

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metameric color matches. That is, the colors match under any visible light conditions .

AIR INSTEAD OF WATER Airflow was the key element of the technology, as air is an ideal transport medium. The replacement of dye liquor with air as a method of transporting piece goods in jet-dyeing machines was a big step toward reducing water and chemicals consumption. Compared to the jet system in which the nozzles are filled with liquor, nozzle pressure is negligible, thus offering optimum protection of sensitive textile surfaces. At the same time, the use of the mass flow principle provides a major improvement in fabric hank laying, thus preventing creasing.

The moisture-saturated airflow ensures the uniform distribution of temperature on the fabric and in the machine, constituting a prerequisite for even and reproducible dyeing.

Moreover, the low level of liquor in the dyeing boiler means the fabric is lighter than in conventional machinery and can therefore be accelerated quickly to high speeds. Thus, the risk of draft or strain is minimal, which is particularly advantageous with regard to the finishing of items containing elastin Fibres.

The high transportation speeds of the fabric result in very short fabric turn time. High heating-up gradients are

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COVER STORY possible because a very low liquor ratio is maintained. The unique ability to use a hot drain system and rinsing with fresh water in a running wash system considerably reduces the time required for the dyeing process.

The Airflow technology represents the combined result of the entire range of possibilities provided by the technology. Through the interplay of all technical possibilities and functions, economic and ecological advantages over the traditional dyeing technology are achieved. The main advantages are as follows: y Unlimited flexibility with regard to all Fibre except pure wool and fabric weight classes between 30 and 800 grams per square meter, as well as all standard market dyestuffs; y The lowest liquor ratio on the market: approximately 1:2 for manmade Fibres and 1:3 to 1:4 for natural Fibres, depending on the article and structure; y Energy savings of up to 40 percent, thanks to a frequency converter, and the use of air as a transport medium, while all other systems need water;

A reduction in the overall process time of approximately 25 percent y Lowest water/wastewater levels y

Here are four microscopic photos of the neck section of a dyed synthetic T-shirt: y Standard Sublimation & Heat Transfer Printing: The dye does not completely penetrate the Fibres, therefore, white Fibre may show after cutting or needle penetration are shown in figure-1. y Conventional Dyes: After treatment in a water dye-bath, the Fibres show complete dye penetration. However, color fastness is low to moderate. y Air-Dye Controlled Penetration: Using our proprietary Sibius™ Dyes, penetration is deeper.

Colors are richer and colourfastness is better. Penetration control is used with Dye Contrast, Print to Dye, and Print to Print products, including Air-Dye woven. y Air-Dye Complete Penetration: Air-Dye is so advanced that it not

only colors the yarn, but also thousands of filaments in each piece of yarn, yielding rich, brilliant colors.

HOW IS AIR-DYE DIFFERENT

DESIGN

Conventional dyeing, such as vat dying or cationic dying, can produce good looking results. On the down side, they use polluting heavy metals, a huge amount of precious water and do not provide permanent coloration.

Sublimation printing has been used to decorate textiles but is limited in application. Air-Dye advances both .

Fabrics dyed with AirDye technology supposedly feel no different than conventionally dyed textiles. They can be dyed all one color, a different color on each side, a pattern on one side and a solid color on the other, or a pattern on both sides as follows.

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Dye-to-Dye Contrast: AirDye technology that dyes two different colors on

opposite sides of a piece of fabric without the use of water.

Dye-to-Print: AirDye technology that, on a single piece of fabric, dyes one side a solid color and one side a print, without the use of water.

Dye-Squared: AirDye technology that dyes the same solid color of ink on both sides of a piece of fabric, without the use of water.

Print-to-Print: AirDye technology that dyes one side of a piece of fabric with

a print and the opposite side of the fabric with another print, without the use of water.

KEY FEATURES TECHNOLOGY:

OF

AIR-DYE

y Does not pollute water in the color application process. By using air instead of water to convey dye, no hazardous waste is emitted and no water is wasted. y Greatly reduces energy requirements, thereby lowering costs and satisfying the strictest standards of global responsibility.

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COVER STORY y Does not use boilers, screen printing machines, drying ovens, or cleaning and scouring chemicals, thereby eliminating major sources of pollution. y Eliminates water in the color application step and simplifies the process, creating revolutionary possibilities of new industry and employment in un-farmable, arid regions of the world. y Gives consumers a way to choose style and sustainability at a realistic price at the point of purchase, thereby initiating world change. y Environment:- The process of making textiles can require several dozen gallons of water for each pound of clothing, especially during the dyeing process. 2.4 trillion gallons of water are used in synthetic dyeing, Air-Dye’s addressable market each year. Air-Dye technology eliminates hazardous wastewater as a by-product of dyeing fabric. Water scarcity affects one in three people on every continent and is getting worse as water needs rise with population growth, urbanization and increased usage by households and industries. y Depending on the fabric, and type of dyeing, Air-Dye uses up to 95% less water, and up to 86% less energy, contributing 84% less to global warming, according to an independent assessment. Additionally, some companies state that with Air-Dye technology they can print to order which eliminates production excess and waste. y Economics:-Colorep claims that its Air-Dye Process is priced competitively compared to traditional technology. Additionally, Colorep claims that companies using the technology find the Air-Dye process reduces waste as 10% of traditional, vat-dyed fabric is damaged during the process, whereas with Air-Dye, only 1% is damaged.

Colorep also says that Air-Dye enables companies to wait longer to decide what color or print to put onto their fabric, which would reduce the need for apparel makers to guess what colors consumers will want to wear months ahead.

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y Consumer:- The Air-Dye process manufactures fabric that can be washed at any temperature, with whites or colors, with or without bleach. Because the Air-Dye process injects the dyes in the fabric and not on the fabric, bleach and cleaning agents do not affect them. With Air-Dye, a company estimates for every 25,000 T-shirts sold, the plant will save: Energy:1,132,500 mega joules, Water:157,500 gallons, Green House Emissions:- 57,500 (Kg CO2 equiv. emissions) By using Air Dyeing

associated with out-dated hydraulic machines, as well as significant savings of time. Shortest cycle times and loading of up to 1,200 meters

for lightweight fabrics and up to 200 kilograms for average articles allow high daily production rates.

POLYAMIDE DYEING

amount of fresh gallons of water can be saved instead of traditional dyeing methods.

HANDLING DELICATE FABRICS The Airflow Dyeing is being especially suitable for the wet finishing of delicate cellulose and man-madeFibre knitwear and woven fabrics with a high percentage of elastin. Such fabrics are used in the automotive, lingerie, sports-leisure and swimwear segments. Close attention has also been paid to the achievement of significant savings of precious water and energy resources similar to the Airflow dyeing Techniques.

With its concept in machine design, unmatched results in process technology and unparalleled achievements regarding economy and ecology.

Most of the fabrics for lingerie, swimwear and automotive applications are made of polyamide.

That’s why the Air dyeing machine handles fabrics made of 100-percent polyamide with the same results as previously mentioned fabrics. “Current and future trends point towards more and more lightweight fabrics with high contents of elastane in finest yarn counts and gauges .

AIR DYE OFFERS EXCITING NEW OPTIONS y Dye different colors on opposite sides of fabric. y Dye fabric a solid color. y Dye one side a solid color and the opposite side a print. y Dye one side of fabric with a print and the opposite side with anoth-

The newly designed dome blower ensures that the fabric is transported just by air. This means the liquor actually is used to do what it is meant to do: dyeing only. The liquor ratio is reduced to between 1:2 and 1:5 and provides savings in terms of water and water treatment, chemical, and energy costs.

This will bring up to 80-percent savings of liquor compared with costs

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37

COVER STORY er print. y Dye opposite sides of fabric with the same print .

mo films y Medical: cubicle curtains, hospital gown.

APPLICATIONS

THESE 2 ARE SOME OF THOSE COMPANIES WHO USES AIR DYEING TECHNOLOGY

y Promotional Items: Banners, retail display / signage, short run branded products, tote bags / reusable bags / aprons. y Apparel: Fabric for all types of garments, finished accessories – scarf / ties / aprons / etc., specialty fabrics for custom items, flags / umbrellas / awnings / tents, uniforms – civic / corporate / medical, swimwear / sarongs, outerwear, sportswear / yoga-wear / active-wear / dance-wear, infant / toddler ap-

parel, junior apparel, missy apparel, wen’s wear, lingerie / intimate apparel / sleep wear, accessories / handbags / cosmetic bags / etc., & shopping bags. y Interiors: Carpet / ceiling tiles, drapes / curtains / blinds, top of

achieving 50% sustainability of products by 2025.

CONCLUSION

sources and offering textile manufacturers a head start on legislation that restricts the use of hazardous process chemicals. Its low operating costs allow you to elevate your short-term results and long-term ambitions.

Lean and clean.

The Air-Dye process radically reduces the environmental profile of the color application process while improving the use phase performance of the finished fabric. By removing the requirement of water at the point of color application, Air-Dye technology creates a significant opportunity to localize production for regions of the globe that lack the water resources traditional methods require. Because traditional processes require considerable energy to heat the water and dry the fabric, Air-Dye technology also significantly reduces the energy required at the point of color application. As Air-Dye technology matures, expect to see additional benefits from increased efficiency in power usage, power source, and the direct application of dye without a donor media. Air-Dye is a clear response to an increasing awareness of the environmental impacts associated with traditional dye application processes and a new technology for improving the process of coloration and decoration of textiles.

Debs

REFFERENCE

We strive to become the leader in sustainable textiles by combining sustainable raw materials with environmentally-friendly dyeing and finishing methods. We also look at process change technologies to find better ways of producing things that

https://www.nrdc.org/issues/ encourage-textile-manufacturersreduce-pollution

DyeCoo‘s DyeCoo‘smission is to passionately lead the textile industry to a lean and clean future. DyeCoo’s CO‐ technology is the world’s first 100% water-free and process chemical-free textile processing solution. Providing geographical freedom from water

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/ industry-article/5676/dyeing-withoutwater https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/ air-dyeing-technology-a-review/ http://www.Air-Dyesolutions.com/ products_and_services/products_ and_ services/Air-Dye_technology/

bed product – coverlets / bedspreads / etc., linens, wall covering, tabletop / napkins, shower curtains, pillows / mattress coverings, &upholstery – sofas, chairs, etc. y Industrial Print Applications: Hard surface laminate, melamine, Thin paper, vinyl transfer, &ther-

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reduce the ecological footprint at the same time.

We are committed to sustainably manufacture 25% of our products by 2020 and to increase this amount by at least 5% per year with the goal of

http://cleantechnica. com/2009/07/28/Air-Dye-removeswater-from-the-fabric-dyeingprocess/ http://www.dyecoo.com/dyecoo/ https://debscorp.com/textiles/ sustainability/

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March 2020

COVER STORY

SUPERCRITICAL FLUID TECHNOLOGY A WAY TO REDUCE TEXTILE WATER FOOTPRINT. DR. U. K. GANGOPADHYAY | DR. MANISHA MATHUR, DR. RACHANA SHUKLA | DR. REKHA R. The Synthetic & Art Silk Mills’ Research Association (SASMIRA), Abstract Excess utilization of fresh water and discharge of wastewater is a major environmental obstruction for the growth of the textile industry besides the other issues like solid waste and energy management. For many years, the textile industry has tried to identify new ways to reduce the water consumption and the wastewater discharge in the industry, such as machine modification (use of low liquor ratio machines), process modification (combined processes), reuse of water and Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) processes.

Textile industry has accelerated efforts to reduce or eliminate water consumption in the areas of wet processing. Supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) is one of the most environmentally acceptable solvents in use, and its applications in textile processing have many advantages. Positive environmental effects range from drastically reduced water consumption to eliminating hazardous industrial effluent.

Furthermore, economic benefits include increased productivity and energy savings. This paper highlights various areas of textile processing where the SC-CO2 technology can be used and what are the developments so far.

Keywords: Textile wet processing, Supercritical Carbon dioxide Technology, Water footprint,Wastewater, Zero Liquid Discharge.

. Introduction Demand for freshwater is increasing

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worldwide due to population growth, industrialization and globalization of the world economy. The world’s population has tripled since 1900, but its water demand has increased six fold [1, 2]. This is a tremendous challenge considering that India has merely 4% of the world’s renewable water resource. The facts of increasing water scarcity and declining water quality have brought sustainable water resources management in the forefront of the global development agenda [3].

1.1 Water footprint The idea of Water Footprint (WF) was introduced by Arjen Hoekstra, a Professor of Water Management at University of Twente in the Netherlands. “The water footprint of an individual, community or business is defined as the total volume of freshwater used to produce the goods and services consumed by the individual or community or produced by the business. Water use is measured in terms of water volumes consumed (evaporated or incorporated into a product) and/or polluted per unit of time [4].

The concept of ‘Water Footprint’ (WF) is an important step in the direction of evolving methodologies, approaches, and indicators for measuring freshwater consumption and assessing the impacts of water pollution. It is a comprehensive indicator, on the one hand, it accounts for the total amount of water consumption that reflects the production process; on the other hand, it accommodates for the total

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amount of pollutants in the water, which reflects the environmental impact [5].

1.2 Water footprint of the Textile Industry Textiles are important necessity of our daily life. The life cycle of textiles involves many stages, such as agriculture, industry, distribution, use and recycling. The production and consumption of textiles in relation to environmental impacts have received political and social attention in recent years. Studies addressing the impacts of the textiles on freshwater resources concluded that the majority of impacts result from raw materials (e.g. cotton, hemp and wool) production, wastewater emissions from textile processing and final products maintenance [6].

Since textile industry is highly water intensive and India had been identified as a highly water-scarce region, the long term viability of the Indian textile industry hinges heavily on sustainable water management.

As per one of the study, the water consumption of Indian Textile industry alone is about 200 – 250 m3/ tone of cotton cloth [7, 8] Textile industry in general has an enormous water footprint right from the stage of cultivation of cotton to the stage when it reaches the stores.

It can be divided • Production of fibres (cultivation of cotton) • Spinning it into yarns • Weaving it into fabric • Processing the fabric (pre-treat-

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COVER STORY 1.3 Strategies for reducing water footprint

ment, dyeing, printing, finishing, washings) The quantity of water required for textile processing is large and varies from mill to mill depending on fabric produce, process, equipment type and dyestuff. The longer the processing sequences, the higher will be the quantity of water required. Water requirements for cotton as well as other synthetic textiles like Nylon, Polyester, Acetate, Acrylic are given in Table 1 [9, 10]. In the Table 2 characteristics of waste streams after each wet processing are given [11].

Table 1: Water requirements for cotton as well as other synthetic textiles Process

Water requirements (Lit/1 kg of product) Cotton

Rayon

Polyester

Nylon

Acetate

Acrylic

Sizing

0.5–8

--

--

--

--

--

Desizing

1.5 – 20

--

--

--

--

--

Scouring

20 – 45

17–30

10–30

10–30

20–30

20–30

Bleaching

2.5 – 20

2–15

--

--

30–40

--

Mercerizing 17 – 30

--

--

--

--

--

Dyeing

10 – 300

17–35

17–35

17–34

35–50

17–30

Printing

8–16

8–16

5–10

5–10

5–10

5–10

Finishing

4–10

4–12

8–12

30–40

20–40

40–50

Table 2: Characteristics of wastewater after each textile wet processes Characteristics

Desizing

pH

8.6 – 10

Alkalinity, mg/L Total solids, mg/L Total dissolved solids, mg/L Suspended solids, mg/L Biological oxygen demand, mg/L Chemical oxygen demand, mg/L

Scouring (kiering) 10.9 – 11.8

Bleaching

Mercerizing

Dyeing

Printing

8.4 – 10.9

8–9.8

9.2 – 11

6.7 – 8.2

2780 –

490 – 2480

4740 –19000

7870 –

14220 –

2980 –

8920

40580

8240

5580 – 6250 2290 –

12260 –38500

6280

2780 – 7900

930 – 1005 2220 – 3030 2060 – 2600

1250 – 3160

500 – 1080

3600 –

2120 –

6540

2750

3230 –

1870 –

6180

2360

1960 –2080

200 – 340

160 – 430

360 – 370

250 –390

2500 –3480

87.5 – 535

100 – 1222

130 – 820

135 – 1380

1650 –

12800 –

1350 –

1750

19600

1575

2670 1000 – 1080

246 - 381

465 – 1400

410 – 4270

In addition to water use, the impact of textile wastewater on the quality of water resources (the streams, lakes, rivers) must also be considered. It is unadvisable to discharge highly polluted wastewater without any treatment to the water bodies. This severely impacts the flora and fauna dwelling in the water resources. The indirect consequences would be on the animals and humans would consume such infected water.

There are best available techniques available for reducing intake of fresh water and primarily aim at reduction in the quantity and quality of waste with a view to combat water pollution. The various water and waste minimization options that are available for the textile industry can be listed out as follows, 1. Improved working practice (good housekeeping, incorporation of automation) 2. Process modification (combining processes) 3. Machine modification (reduced liquor ratio) 4. Chemical management (reduction and reuse in process chemicals, substitution of hazardous chemicals with the eco-friendly ones) 5. Efficient washing techniques (counter current and using final rinse of one process as a first rinse for another one) 6. Segregation of waste streams (coloured and non coloured streams, less polluted from more polluted, biodegradable and non biodegradable) and then effluent treatment ‘Green production’ is a preventive business strategy in textile dyeing and finishing industry and nowadays more research is carried out on topics like, use of ultrasonic energy, use of microwave energy, use of plasma technology, use of supercritical fluids in textile dyeing and finishing to advance the textile processing industry.

This paper highlights the supercritical carbon dioxide technology, the developments done and its varied applications in textile processing.

2. Supercritical Carbon dioxide Technology or ‘Waterless technology’ Textiles have undergone chemical wet processing since time immemorial. Now, the general concept of environmental protection is shifting from a reactive approach referred to as “pollution control” to a proactive approach referred as “pollution prevention”. It is still imperative to change the mindset of many industries which is still to control the pollution rather than preventing it.

Usage of water as solvent for chemicals is mostly because of its abundant availability and low cost. Problems associated with usage of water are effluent generation and an additional drying step is needed. The amount of energy spent to remove the water is also huge, adding to the woes of processors; making processing the weakest link among the entire textile chain. The unspent dyestuffs remain in liquor, thus polluting the effluent.

New waterless dyeing technologies are being developed and deployed that could help reduce the vast quantities of pollution generated by textile dyeing. Application of ultrasonic waves, microwave dyeing, Plasma technology, supercritical

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COVER STORY carbon dioxide, and electrochemical dyeing of textiles are some of the revolutionary ways to advance the textile wet processing A supercritical fluid (SCF) is defined as a substance above its critical temperature (Tc) and critical pressure (Pc). The critical point represents the highest temperature and pressure at which the substance can exist as a vapor and liquid in equilibrium. The phenomenon can be easily explained with reference to the phase diagram of carbon dioxide, CO2 (Figure 1).

This shows the conditions where CO2 exists as a gas, liquid, solid, or as a SCF; i.e. above 7.4 Mpa and 31.1 °C.

therefore be summarized as follows: 1.SCFs have similar solvating powers to liquid organic solvents, but their higher diffusivities, lower viscosity and lower surface tension make them more effective in many cases.

2.Since their density is pressuretuneable, separation of substances from solvents is easy to achieve.

3.The ability to add modifiers to a SCF, for example to change the polarity, gives them more selective separation power.

4. Negligible harm is done to the environment in terms of residues from processes using SCF compared to volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and ozone depleting substances (ODSs).

5. SCFs are generally cheap, safe to use and have minimal disposal costs associated with their operation in industrial processes.

2.1 Applications of SC-CO2 technology in textile processing

Figure 1: Phase diagram of CO2

For a long time the supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) technology has been known for only extraction purpose i.e. extraction of essential oils, fragrances, coffee, tobacco etc. Supercritical fluid dyeing (SFD) was first established by Professor Schollmeyer and his research groups from Deutsches Textil for Schungszentrum Nord-West e.V. (DTNW) in Krefeld (Germany) in the late 1980s and, since then, many research activities and experiments, from laboratory scale to pilot scale, have been developed. In 2002 the above-mentioned research group published a comprehensive review about this technology. In the last decade, further research activities have been carried out with the aim of studying the impregnating properties of supercritical fluids [12].

The advantages of using a SCF can

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The applications of supercritical fluid originated from replacing traditional solvent extraction of caffeine from coffee bean or nicotine from tobacco.

This technique has reached the economic scale of mass production.

The application of SC-CO2 has extended continuously in various domains including Textile industry [12]. The following are some of the areas,

1.Dyeing of fibers/Fabrics 2.Treatment of contaminated/soiled substrates 3.Extraction of impurities supercritical fluids

with

Dyeing with SC-CO2 has already been proven for synthetic fibers. However, it lacks the specific work flow towards the processing of the textile materials before and after the dyeing i.e. pre-processing and post-processing.

2.1.1 Supercritical dioxide dyeing

Carbon-

Conventional water based dyeing of

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textile fabrics has intrinsic environmental problems due to the inevitable use of water and the discharge of various chemical additives.

Moreover, a subsequent drying process with high energy consumption is necessary [13].

Researchers have worked and are still working on various aspects related to dyeing of textiles with supercritical fluids. Some of these include, • Solubility of dyes in SC-CO2 medium • Selection of substrates for processing •Studying the effect of SC-CO2 on morphology of substrate a)Solubility of dyes in supercritical fluids In general, CO2 displays the properties of a typical solvent; beyond its critical point, CO2 has unique properties. SC-CO2 exhibits densities and solvating powers similar to those of liquid solvents yet has extremely rapid diffusion and viscosity similar to those of a gas [14, 15].

In order to develop compatible dyes and design a proper SC-CO2 dyeing process, the solubility of dyestuffs in SC-CO2 fluid is one of the most important parameters which determine their appropriate selection and dosage.

Draper et al. in their detailed study performed solubility relationships of ten disperse dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide. These were made over a pressure range of 200 – 400 atm at 50 – 100 °C. The Authors concluded that melting point, molar heat of fusion show little correlation with solubility. Dye structure is the only factor that correlated consistently with SC-CO2 solubility. Higher polarity generally led to lower SC-CO2 solubility of the dye [16].

In another study, the solubility of dyes in the SC-CO2 medium, kinetics of dyeing processes or SC-CO2 flow characteristics in textile substrates was studied. It was concluded that the dye solubility is the function of

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COVER STORY solvent (SC-CO2) density. An increase in pressure increases the fluid density and eventually increases the solubility of solute [15].

In a similar study, Long et al. reported the solubility of the reactive disperse red dye in a batch system at pressures 7.5–25.0 MPa (75 to 250 bar) and temperatures ranging over 60 to 140 °C. The study shows that the solubility of the dye increased with the system pressure and decreases with rise in temperatures, especially above 100°C [17].

Solubility behavior of dyes in SC-CO2 is important for level or uniform dyeing. This would minimize the problem of unleveled dyeing, shading and streaking might be minimized, with less time required for correction of the uniformity problems.

b) Dyeing of different substrates Dyeing of any textile material in SC-CO2 depends on (but not limited to) dissolution of dyes in SC-CO2 medium and the diffusion of SC-CO2+dye into the polymer matrix.

Thus study of polarity of dyes and the textile substrate is important.

Non-polar dyes are used to enable proper dissolution in SC-CO2 medium.

Synthetic substrates like polyester, nylon, polypropylene, etc are also non-polar or hydrophobic and during the dyeing process, the dye molecules can diffuse into the polymer matrix, where they are physically bonded.

Because of its non-polarity, these substrates can be dyed in SC-CO2 with non-reactive, so-called disperse dyes. On the other hand, natural textile substrates like cotton, silk and wool are polar or hydrophilic and therefore have no affinity for the non-polar dye molecules. It is only possible to dye these textiles in SC-CO2 when the dyes are reactive towards the reactive groups in these materials. These non-polar reactive dyes are generally called disperse reactive. Another way is to impart hydrophobicity onto the natural substrates making them non-polar and can be dyed with disperse dyes

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in SC-CO2 [18].

Dyeing of synthetic hydrophobic textiles using SC-CO2 dates back to 1982 where Chou and Wessinger studied the absorbance and swelling capacity of SC-CO2 for polystyrene, polycarbonate, polyvinyl carbonate, polypropylene, poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA) polyester and polyurethane polymers. The results showed that PMMA and polycarbonate have maximum affinity for CO2 due to carbonyl group [19, 20].

Long et al. investigated the level dyeing of polyester fabrics in SC-CO2 by employing an improved beam.

The level dyeing properties of fabrics were studied under different conditions including dyeing pressure, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, the time ratio of fluid circulation to static dyeing, different fabric layers on the beam, and the properties of dyestuffs.

The results obtained showed that the level dyeing properties of polyester fabric samples were enhanced with the new beam [21].

Santos et al. compared the dye incorporation process of non-modified and N, N-dimethylacrylamide modified PET fibers with SC-CO2. They investigated the effect of dyeing conditions and modifying agents on the PET films and fibers dyeing properties. The results concluded that the amount of incorporated dye increases 3.8 times with the pre-treated N, N-dimethylacrylamide PET fibers [22].

There is a limited published research about dyeing of polyamide fabrics using SC-CO2. Nylon 6, 6, was dyed with synthesized hydrophobic reactive dyes using SC-CO2. A covalent bond was formed between the dye and the fibre which was confirmed by FTIR, MS and NMR analysis. Dye uptake was moderate to good and the dyed fabrics had very good fastness properties [23].

In an another study on dyeing Nylon-6 fabrics using SC-CO2

reported by Abou Elmaaty et al; they demonstrated the ability of a new series of hydrazonopropanenitrile azo dyes with potential antibacterial activity in dyeing Nylon-6 fabrics under SC-CO2 conditions. The results were promising, as excellent wash and rubbing fastness, and good light fastness compared with conventional dyeing. Also, excellent antibacterial effectiveness of the dyed samples using SC-CO2 was reported [24].

The properties of polypropylene (PP) like low density, high toughness and resilience, poor moisture adsorption, excellent chemical and abrasion resistance makes the PP fibers/fabric very difficult to dye. In the research

by Liao et al. PP fibers were dyed successfully in SC-CO2 and claimed that the results were comparable with the water based dyeing [25]. The disperse dye had better dyeing effect on polypropylene fiber in SC-CO2 conditions as it helps to reduce the Tg of polypropylene thus plasticizes the polymer for making it dyeable [26, 27].

One step dyeing process for dyeing polypropylene with commercial acid dye was studied by Garay et al. in their research. The result showed that the use of co-solvent is necessary because of the dye insolubility in SC-CO2, and water was chosen because of environmental reasons. Good scCO2 dyeing results were obtained for pressures above 175 bar [28].

It is a well established study that synthetic fabrics can be dyed using SC-CO2 technology. Dyeing of natural fabrics such as cotton, wool, silk are difficult to dye with this technology.

Various modifications in the dye as well as the substrate are necessary prior to dyeing. The inability of CO2 to swell and promote the diffusion of dyes into the interior of polar natural fibres is one of the main problems.

Furthermore, the interactions of polar fibres with disperse dyes is very low, while the polar dyes that are general-

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COVER STORY ly used to dye natural fibres in conventional aqueous dyeing (direct dyes, acid dyes, basic dyes, vat dyes, etc.) are nearly insoluble in SC-CO2.

better retention of the mechanical properties of PLA fibres with respect to the conventional aqueous treatment [31].

One possibility is to develop reactive disperse dyes that could be soluble in SC-CO2 medium and later react with cotton fabrics to form covalent bond. Gao et al. reported the high efficiency of the reactive disperse dyes in the dyeing of cotton fabrics; and the results indicated that the solubility of the dyes increased with increasing pressure at the same temperature, and decreased with increasing temperature at a given pressure. Meanwhile, the solubility for these dyes was also influenced by the polarity of the dye molecules, in such a manner that higher solubility was displayed by less polar molecules and lower solubility by more polar molecules. These dyes were applied on cotton fabrics in SC-CO2, and the appropriate dyeing condition were 100 °C at a 20.0 MPa pressure, for 60 min. The colour fastness properties were between 4 – 5 [29].

Zheng et al. investigated the effect of water on the dyeing of wool fabrics in SC-CO2. Addition of water significantly improved the dyeing process at low temperature and pressure. The SEM results obtained indicated that the solubility of dyes on the wool fibers surface was remarkably improved by adding water. In addition, increasing the amounts of water in the SC-CO2 and the textiles clearly improved the results of K/S and color difference of wool fibers [32].

Schmidt could successfully dye wool and silk fibers by synthesizing a reactive disperse dye. The dyeing was carried out without pre-treating the fibers and various fastness properties were above grade 4. However the dyeing parameters were 280 bar pressure at 160 °C for 4 hour, which was not ideal as the fibers were damaged [30].

Promising reports for the supercritical dyeing of poly (lactic) acid (PLA) fibres with disperse dyes can be found in the literature. PLA is a sustainable fibre that has been receiving increasing attention from the textile industry, but its use is limited because of its poor resistance to conventional textile processing conditions, such as dyeing and scouring. SC-CO2 dyeing of PLA gave comparable dyeing and fastness properties with aqueous dyeing. Wen and Dai conducted experiments on PLA fibers and recommended a maximum working temperature of 110 °C and concluded that SC-CO2 dyeing resulted in much

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c) Effect of SC-CO2 on structural/morphological change of the substrate It should be emphasized that exposure to supercritical fluids have significant effects on the structure of substrate depending on the conditions applied. Thermal and solvent treatments of hydrophobic synthetic samples lead to reduced glass transition temperature but increased molecular chain mobility followed by crystallization induced in the samples. While exposure of such textiles to SC-CO2 allows desirable structural changes in them without any environmental hazards, improvement in their ultimate properties can only be achieved by knowing exactly the mechanism of microstructure development.

Bai et al. detected the changes in molecular structure of PET under SC-CO2 conditions back in 1998 by using Solid state NMR spectroscopy and wide angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD). The WAXD results indicate an increase in crystallinity from essentially zero in the as-received sample to 62% in the SCF-treated sample [33].

Baseri et al. investigated the influence of SC-CO2 on the structural changes and mesomorphic changes in PET fibers. The fibers were exposed to SC-CO2 at 80 °C and 220 bar

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for 2.5 hr. to study the structural changes. Thermal characteristics of the structure, especially the rearrangement of polymer chains in the amorphous phase induced by exposure to SC-CO2, were evaluated by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR). The orientation factor of the fibers was measured using a polarizing microscope. The paracrystalline portion and the crystallite sizes of exposed samples were estimated by wide-angle X-ray diffraction [34].

2.2.2 Pre-treatment (Pre-processing) Dyeing with supercritical carbon dioxide has already been proven for being able to be widely utilized in the dyeing of synthetic fibers.

However, it lacks the specific work flow towards the processing of the textile materials before and after the dyeing. This technique can be used for pre-treatment of fabrics.

The principle for the same is that the fluid is compressed to elevated pressures above its critical pressure, to make it supercritical. The polymer is then exposed to the supercritical fluid and swells. As the free volume in the polymer is increased, the SCF can penetrate deeply into the matrix and the impurities are dissolved by the supercritical fluid. In the de-pressurisation phase the pressure is quickly reduced and the supercritical fluid and impurities diffuse out of the polymer. Very limited amount of literature was available for this application.

Some of them are explained below.

One of these usage applications of supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) is in surface modification of polyester fabrics as a pretreatment. In their study, glycerol polyglycidyl ether was impregnated as a cross-linking agent into polyester fabric through supercritical carbon dioxide. It is reported that glycerol polyglycidyl ether can penetrate to the surface of polyester fabric in supercritical

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COVER STORY carbon dioxide pretreatment process.

The modified polyester fabric exhibited progression in surface hydrophilicity and wettability, moisturisation efficiency, and antibacterial activities [35].

C. Wang et al. studied the scouring possibility of polyester fibers by utilizing SC-CO2 as a medium, the oil removal efficiency from polyester fibers reached to +99% [36].

The bleaching possibility of knitted cotton fabric by using SC-CO2 as a medium was studied by Eren et al. at 80 °C and 120 °C for 20 min using SC-CO2 fluid technology. Bleaching was carried with either solely hydrogen peroxide or combination usage of hydrogen peroxide with necessary related auxiliaries such as peroxide stabilizer and caustic soda.

When compared with conventional aqueous bleaching, the waterless bleaching resulted in higher whiteness index [37].

In a patented technology by DeSimone et al., SC-CO2 system was used to clean synthetic fibre i.e. nylon employed solely or in combination with other types of fibers in various non woven and woven fabrics.

Contaminants such as dirt, dust, grease, and sizing aids used in textile processing are removed from the synthetic fiber. Methanol was used as co-solvent in order to increase the efficiency of removal [38].

2.2.3. Finishing (Post Dyeing) Supercritical carbon dioxide has recently found different application types also in textile finishing.

For instance, A.L.Mohamed et. al. studied supercritical carbon dioxide assisted silicon based finishing on cotton fabric. In here, researchers used supercritical carbon dioxide as a medium for finishing cotton fabrics with modified dimethylsiloxane polymers terminated with silanol groups. 3- isocyanatepropyltriethoxysilane and tetraethylorthosilicate were utilized as cross-linkers for covalent bonding formation between silicon and

44

cellulose polymers of cotton fiber. It is reported that all cotton fibers applied with silicon (PDMS) and 3-isocyanatepropyltriethoxysilane possess larger silicon amounts than those applied with tetraethylorthosilicate. Supercritical carbon dioxide medium procures nice cotton surface coating via a 3D network of DMS compound and cross linker leading to the highest DMS concentration formation in a layer between 1 and 2 micron under the cotton fiber surface [39].

In the case of antimicrobial finishing attainment, T. Baba et al. impregnated chitin and chitosan to polyester (PET) fabric using supercritical carbon dioxide in order to achieve high anti-bacteria property durable to washing. The chitosan was fixed in the PET fabric as evidnced by the durability rate of 70 % after 50 washes [40].

SC-CO2 medium was used to impart water/oil repellent property on polyester fabrics with a solution of organic fluorine. The finishing experiments were conducted at temperatures and pressures ranging from 50 °C to 110 °C and 10 MPa to 26 MPa, respectively. FTIR confirmed the presence of –CF2- group on the surface of polyester fabrics. SEM images confirmed that fluorine was evenly distributed on the fiber surface [41].

Functional active agents such as functional dyes, antimicrobial agents, flame retardant, antioxidants, fragrances, pharmaceutical drugs, and others can be impregnated into a polymer by exposing the polymer to SC-CO2 medium containing these agents based on the mechanisms explained in Figure 2 [42].

Figure 2: Schematic of impregnation mechanism of polymeric fibres with functional agent in SC-CO2

Pharmaceutical drugs can be impregnated into a swollen polymer matrix (like polyester, PMMA, polyurethane) at operating temperature low enough to avoid thermal degradation of temperature-sensitive drugs (35 – 55 °C) and pressure 90 to 200 bar.

After impregnation and depressurization, the impregnated drug materials slowly diffuse out from the polymer matrix at a slower rate than the rate it was diffused into the polymer which can be used to form a novel controlled release of drugs [43].

2.2.4 Treatment of soiled substrates / Cleaning of textiles The application of SC-CO2 in dyeing has been studied by many researchers few of them are discussed already.

Apart from dyeing, other area which is gaining ground is cleaning or disinfection of textiles using SC-CO2 technology.

Solvents such as perfluorocarbons, hydrofluorocarbons and other solvents have been investigated and implemented for applications of cleaning of substrates instead of water-based cleaning. However, these solvents still pose environmental and/or health concerns. SC-CO2 cleaning offers several advantages over conventional processes.

There are few patented technologies, wherein the researchers claim of inventing a method with less or no damage to solid components like buttons, zips, etc. with increased performance. They also claim minimum polymer damage. In another claim, it was stated that, SC-CO2 cleaning reduces redeposi-

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COVER STORY tion of contaminants back onto the substrates. The preferred conditions are 60 to 240 bar at temperatures between 20 to 100 °C. In another trial, the soiled textiles were treated with SC-CO2 along with added formulation (consisting of water, methanol, citric acid and enzyme) for better cleaning efficiency [44, 45].

The disinfection of textiles is of extreme importance when dealing with materials targeted for special uses such as hospital textiles and the proposed treatment must be safe and must not compromise patient’s safety and health. On the other hand conventional textile treatments such as UV-radiation or chemical disinfection seem to be insufficient, time consuming, while they can be held responsible for causing additional health problems to patients such as skin irritation [46].

Successful trials of cleaning of textiles in SC-CO2 plus water and SC-CO2 plus detergent were done which helped in reducing the redeposition of stains onto the textiles. Disinfection properties were also observed wherein inactivation of bacteria took place at 50 – 80 bar [47].

A green textile cleaning process was optimized by Aslanidou et al., wherein the authors managed to remove various stains like oil, beetroot paste, glue and fungi (Aspergillus Niger) from silk fabric using supercritical carbon dioxide and an aqueous suspension of Ca (OH)2 as a co solvent. The proposed operational parameters were 150 bar pressure at 40 °C with the cleaning efficiencies for all three stains were found to be between 95 to 99% [46].

The disinfection efficiency of textiles which were inoculated with microbes and later subjected to treatment using SC-CO2 was studied by Fijan et al. (2011). It was found that, addition of heat to the compressed CO2 treatment of textiles inoculated with microorganisms proved more effective than the addition of detergent or disinfectant with compressed CO2 treatment.

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Ttreatment at 5 MPa, temperature of 50°C and addition of 4 ml/l of CO2 of specific detergent assures at least a 6 log step reduction of all three chosen microorganisms: Enterococcus faecium, Enterobacter aerogenes and C. albicans [48].

Lammers R.B., ‘Global water resources: Vulnerability form climate change and population growth’, Science, 2000, 289(5477), 284 - 288

3. Summary

3.Glavan M., Pintar M., ‘Modelling of surface water quality by catchment model SWAT’,

The review highlights the idea of water footprint, and explains the water footprint of textile industry.

It is an important step in the direction of evolving methodologies, approaches, and indicators for measuring freshwater consumption and assessing the impacts of water pollution caused by the industry. Even though there are various developments being done to reduce the water footprints like implementing the Best Available Techniques (BATs); still it is considered as a reactive approach or pollution control approach.

Supercritical carbon-dioxide technology is seen as a proactive approach or pollution prevention approach in textile processing industry.

Supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) waterless dyeing is widely known and applied green method for sustainable and eco-friendly textile industry.

However, recently, not only dyeing but also pretreatment processes and different finishing applications take the advantage of SC-CO2 leading to enormous fresh water saving, cleaner and greener way of production and massive amount of contribution for world sustainability. This review provides a brief introduction on the existing circumstances of the developments in the applications of SC-CO2 which can provide a better understanding for further studies.

Acknowledgement Authors would like to acknowledge Ministry of Textiles, Government of India for providing essential financial support to conduct the research work.

2.Dovi V.G., Friedler F. Huisingh D., Klemes J.J., ‘Cleaner energy for sustainable future’, Journal of Cleaner Production, 2009, 17, 889–895.

In book: Studies on Water Management Issues, 2012, Intech 4.Hoekstra A. Y., ‘Virtual water trade: proceedings of the international expert meeting on virtual water trade’. Value of Water Research Report Series No.12, 2003, UNESCO-IHE, Delft, The Netherlands.

5.Ma J. and Peng J., ‘Research Process on Water Footprint’ Acta EcologicaSinica, 2013, 33, 5458–5466.

6.Morrison J., ‘Water Disclosure 2.0, Assessment of current and emerging practice in corporate water reporting’ (online) 2009.

7.Cardone R., ‘Wet business risks’, Business Knights Magazine, 2004, 3, 16 – 17.

8.http://www.cseindia.org/dte-supplement/ industry20040215/misuse.htm 9.Phillia Restiani, Khandelwal A., Water Governance Mapping Report: Textile Industry Water use in India, Sustainability outlook, 2016.

10.Shaikh M.A., ‘Water conservation in textile industry’, Pakistan Textile Journal, 2009, 58 (11), 48 – 51.

11.kelly J.K., ‘Water recycling in textile wet processing’, Society of Dyers and Colourists, 2003, Hampshire, U.K. 12.Bach E., Cleve E., Schollmeyer E., ‘Past.

Present and future of supercritical fluid dyeing technology – an overview’, Review of Progress in Coloration, 2002, 32 (1), 88 – 102.

13.Elmaaty T.A. and El-Aziz E.A., ‘Supercritical carbon dioxide as a green textile dyeing: A review’, Textile Research Journal, 2018, 88(10), 1 – 29.

14.Kazarian S. G., ‘Polymer Processing with Supercritical Fluids’, Polymer Science, 2000, 42(1), 78 – 101.

15.Montero G., Smith C.B., Walter A., Hendrix A., Butcher D., ‘Supercritical fluid technology in textile processing: An overview’, Ind. Eng. Chem. Res., 2000, 39, 4806 – 4812.

16.Draper S.L. Montero G.A., Smith B., Beck K., ‘Solubility relationships for disperse dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide’, Dyes and Pigments, 2000, 45, 177 – 183.

References

17.Long J.J., Ran R.L., Jiang W.D., Ding Z.F., ‘Solubility of a reactive disperse dye in supercritical carbon dioxide’, Coloration Technology, 2012, 128, 127 – 132.

1.Vorosmarty C., Green P., Salisbury J.,

18.Kraan

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M.V.D.,

Fernandez

Cid

M.V.,

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COVER STORY Woerlee G.F., Veugelers W.J.T, Witkamp G.J.,

Color Technol, 2012, 128, 60–67.

surfactants’, US5783082, 1995

‘Dyeing of natural and synthetic textiles in supercritical carbon dioxide with disperse reactive dyes’, The Journal of Supercritical Fluids, 2007, 40, 470 – 476.19.

28.Garay I., Pocheville A., Hernando I., ‘Polyamide and polypropylene textile dyeing using supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO2).

In: 12th European meeting on SCF, Gratz, Austria, 9–12 May 2010, Poster P05

39.Mohamed A.L., Er-Rafik M., Moller M., ‘Supercritical carbon dioxide assisted silicon based finishing of cellulosic fabric: A novel approach’, Carbohydrate Polymers, 2013, 98, 1095- 1107.

29.Gao D., Yang D., Cui H., ‘Synthesis and measurement of solubilities of reactive disperse dyes for dyeing cotton fabrics in supercritical carbon dioxide’, Ind Eng Chem Res, 2014, 53, 13862–13870.

40.Baba T., Hirogaki K., Tabata I., Okubayashi S., Hisada K., Hori T., ‘Impregnation of Chitin/Chitosan into Polyester Fabric Using Supercritical Carbon Dioxide’, Sen’i Gakkaishi, 2013, 66, 63-69.

30.Schmidt A., Bach E., Schollmeyer E., ‘The dyeing of natural fibres with reactive disperse dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide’, Dyes and Pigments 2003, 56, 27–35.

41.Xu Y.Y., Zheng L.J., Fang Y., Qian Y.F., Yan J., Xiong X.Q., ‘Water/oil repellent property of polyester fabrics after supercritical carbon dioxide finishing’, ThermalScience, 2015, 19( 4), 1273-1277.

Chou W. and Kramer E.J., ‘Effects of High Pressure CO2 on the Glass Transition Temperature and Mechanical Properties of Polystyrene’, Journal of Polymer Science, 1982, 20(8), 1371-1384.

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Wessinger R. G. and Paulaitis M. E., ‘Swelling and Sorp- tion in Polymer—CO2 Mixture at Elevated Pressures’, Journal of Polymer Physics Part B: Polymer Physics, 1987, 25(12), 2497-2510.

21.Long J.J., Ma Y.Q. and Zhao J.P., ‘Investigations on the level dyeing of fabrics in supercritical carbon dioxide’, Journal Supercritical Fluids, 2011; 57, 80–86.

22.Santos W.L.F., Porto M.F., Muniz E.C., ‘Incorporation of disperse dye in N, N-dimethylacrylamide modified poly (ethylene terephthalate) fibers with supercritical CO2’, Journal of Supercritical Fluids, 2001, 19, 177–185.

23.Knittel D. and Schollmeyer E., ‘Dyeing from Supercritical CO2—Fastness of Dyeing’, Melliand English, 23, 1994, 99-100.

24.Abou Elmaaty T., Abd El-Aziz E., Ma J., ‘Eco-friendly disperse dyeing and functional finishing of Nylon 6 using supercritical carbon dioxide’, Fibers, 2015, 3: 309–322.

25.Liao S.K., Chang P.S. and Lin Y.C., ‘Analysis on the dyeing of polypropylene fibers in supercritical carbon dioxide’, Journal of Polymer Research, 2000, 71 (3), 155 – 159.

26.Hendrix W. A., ‘Progress in supercritical CO2 dyeing’, Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2001, 31(1), 43-56.

27.Miyazaki K., Tabata I, Hori T., ‘Relationship between colour fastness and colour strength of polypropylene fabrics dyed in supercritical carbon dioxide: effect of chemical structure in 1,4-bis (alkylamino) anthraquinone dyestuffs on dyeing performance’

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31.Wen H., Dai J.J., ‘Dyeing of polylactide fibers in supercritical carbondioxide’, Journal ofApplied Polymer Science, 105(4), 1903–1907.

32.Zheng L., Guo J.L., Qian Y.F., ‘Water in supercritical carbon dioxide dyeing’. Therm Sci 2015; 19, 1301–1304.

33.Bai S., Hu J.Z., Pugmire R.J., Grant D.M., ‘Solid state NMR and Wide angle X-ray diffraction studies of supercritical fluid CO2-treated poly ethylene terephthalate’, Macromolecules, 1998,31,9238–9246.

34.Baseri S., Karimi M., Morshed M., ‘Study of structural changes and mesomorphic transitions of oriented poly ethylene therephthalate fibers in supercritical CO2’, EuropeanPolymer Journal, 2012, 48 (2912), 811–820 35.Eren H.A., Avinc O., Eren S., ‘Supercritical carbon dioxide for textile applications and recent developments’, Mater. Sci. Eng, 2017, 254(8), 1 – 4.

36.Wang C.T. and Wen-Fa L., ‘Scouring and Dyeing of Polyester Fibers in Supercritical Carbon Dioxide’, Journal of chemical engineering of Japan, 2001, 34, 244-248.

37.Eren S., Avinc O., Saka Z., Eren H.A., ‘Waterless bleaching of knitted cotton fabric using supercritical carbon dioxide fluid technology’, Cellulose, 2018, 25, 6247 – 6267.

38.DeSimone J.M. et al., ‘Cleaning process using carbon dioxide as a solvent and employing molecularly engineered

42.Abate M.T., Ferri A., Gan J., Chen G., Nierstrasz V., ‘Impregnation of materials in supercritical CO2 to impart various functionalities’. In Advanced supercritical fluid technologies, (ed.) Prof. Ignor Leonardovich Pioro, 2019, Intech Open Publications.

43.Champeau M., Thomassin J.M., Tassaing T., Jérôme C., ‘Drug loading of polymer implants by supercritical CO2 assisted impregnation: A review’, Journal of ControlledRelease, 2015, 209, 248-259.

44.Dewees et al., ‘Liquid/supercritical carbon dioxide dry cleaning system’, US5267455 1993.

45.Mitchell J.D., et al., ‘Liquid/supercritical cleaning with decreased polymer damage’, CA 2139952, 1994.

46.Aslanidou D., Karapanagiotis I., Panayiotou C., ‘Tuneable textile cleaning and disinfection process based on supercritical CO2 and Pickering emulsions’, The journal ofSupercritical Fluids, 2016, 118, 128–139.

47.McHardy J., Stanford T. B., Benjamin L. R., Whiting T. E., Chao S. C., ‘Progress in Supercritical CO2 Cleaning’, U P E Journal,1993, 29(5), 20- 27.

48.Fijan S., Skerget M., Knez Z., Sostar-Turk S., Neral B., ‘Determining the disinfection of textiles in compressed carbon dioxide using various indicator microbes’, Journal ofapplied microbiology, 2011, 112, 475–484.

“Take responsibility of your own happiness, never put it in other people’s hands.” ― Roy T. Bennett

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COVER STORY

IMPLEMENTATION OF CHEMICAL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM (CMS) IN TEXTILE PROCESSING MR. TANAJI KADAM | MR. VIJAY SHIROLE Technical services The Bombay Textile research association, Mumbai ABSTRACT A variety of chemicals, auxiliaries, and dyes are being used in the textile processing industry during production activities like sizing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, printing, washing, finishing, and other auxiliary processes. The chemical procurement, storage, transportation, and consumption become routine work in the textile unit. Some of the dyes and chemicals are having potential hazards to the operatives and the surrounding communities and the environment. The chemical management system(CMS) is a comprehensive tool which gives guideline and requirements to comply during daily chemical handling and usage. The present paper describes, how the CMScan be implemented in the process house.

1.0 INTRODUCTION The textile sector certainly is not chemically intensive as other global industries, but its variety of chemical operations and materials do present a range of potential hazards to its workers and the surrounding communities and the environment.

In recent years increased attention has been given to the chemicals which are contained in textile products 1, as well as exposure of textile industry workers to hazardous chemicals and environmental effects2. Some of them are by nature hazardous. When hazardous chemicals are heated, air, or with each other, a vigorous reaction leads to accidents. There is a need for more knowledge and also practical tools that can be used to

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reduce the exposure of operatives and nature to harmful chemicals.

It is necessary for Employers to make necessary arrangements to ensure the safety and health of employees, which handles, stores, and transports chemicals. In order to make such arrangements, the employer has to evaluate work-related hazards or potential hazards and develop safety procedures and risk control measures.

ments, reduce the negative impacts related to chemical use and continuous review of the effectiveness of the whole system should be developed.

In the CMS scope at the initial stage.

• The manufacturer should first list out all the production sites and processes and then define which one needs to be included in the chemical management system.

2.0 STEPS INVOLVED IN IMPLEMENTATION OF CHEMICAL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM(CMS)

• After defining the scope manufacturer needs to conduct a chemical risk assessment within the scope.

Based on the result, the manufacturer can decide whether they need to implement a CMS or simply controls and measures can be implemented. Ex. Prepare or modify existing SOP for chemical use related processes.

The following steps are involved in the implementation of aCMS in the industry.

1. The commitment of Top management for CMS 1.1 Development of CMS team 1.2 Development of CMS Policy and deciding the responsibilities of CMS team members.

2. Regulation compliance 3. Risk assessment 4. Chemical Inventory 5. Labeling of containers 6. Chemical Storage and handling 7. Emergency preparedness 8. Disposal of Hazardous substances 9. Training

•

3.THE COMMITMENT OF MANAGEMENT FOR CMS

b. Prepare organization charts and appoint a person to manage the chemical system. The organization chart should clearly define the role and the name of the responsible person

3.1.PREPARATION OF CHEMICAL COMPLIANCE POLICY (Sample Format) We achieve this by:-

TOP

The top management of industry must commit to comply with regulations and customer require-

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a. The first step in chemical management system implementation is to prepare chemical management policy. (Sample Format as given below)

•

• Developing a chemical compliance team to manage hazards in raw materials, waste and input Chemicals.

Understanding & implementing

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COVER STORY PROCESS3:

requirements

When purchasing a new chemical following things are required to be considered

• Keep hazardous chemical purchase and transportation documentation in accordance with regulatory requirements.

application methods of chemicals used for each process, as •

Recommended by the chemical supplier.

• Understanding MSDS & technical data sheet of each chemical, especially for its hazard and impact on health

• Obtain the safety data sheet (SDS) from the manufacturer.

4. REGULATION COMPLIANCE: •

Management must appoint a specific person to manage regulatory compliance.

• Review the SDS from the manufac-

• He must look for the most updated national regulations.

• He must review the whole article and list out regulation suitable for the defined scope of the factory.

• List out the regulations •

turer/ supplier before purchasing, and check the hazards, health effects, precautions for use, safe handling information, storage requirements and exposure standards outlined, to determine if further action is required prior to purchase.

& environment.

•

Reduce the consumption of chemicals by adoption of clean technology and “green” products •

Random testing of our outputs (finished article and treated effluent, sludge) and inputs (Grieg raw material, input chemicals, inlet water)

This may include: •

Consider if there is a safer alternative if the chemical has been defined as a “Hazardous Chemical”

• Health & safety training for chemical hazards for all employees • Compliance to the RSLs of serviced Brands by:

Ensure that all safety provisions outlined on the SDS have been considered and appropriate control measures implemented a) Providing Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) b) Ensuring appropriate spill kits/ emergency contingency arrangements are in place c) Storage facilities are in accordance with specifications

• Documenting and communicating the restricted substances list (RSL) to our employees and raw material suppliers

•

•

Ensuring correct and complete Declarations from chemical suppliers • Regularly updating and communicating the revisions in the RSLs.

3.2. DEVELOPMENT OF CMS TEAM AND DECIDING THE RESPONSIBILITIES OF CMS TEAM MEMBERS: Preparation of the CMS team and appointing a person to manage the chemical system. The organization should clearly define the role and the name of the responsible person. The following is an example of CMS team.

THE

48

CHEMICAL

PURCHASE

•

Ask for A restricted substance list (RSL) /Manufacturer restricted substances list (MRSL), Confirmation Guarantee Letter.

• Obtain approval from the customs office and other relevant government authorities, if needed • If approved for purchase, add to chemical inventory and in approved chemicals lists • Check that labels for all chemical containers (packages) meet the legal

The Manufacturer can clearly understand whether activities are fulfilling the chemical-related regulation or not.

• He must regularly review updated regulations.

5. RISK ASSESSMENT: The risk assessment of hazardous chemicals consists of the following steps 5.1 Identify hazardous substances 5.2 Assess the risk 5.3 Control the risk 5.4 Training for employees

STEP 5.1: IDENTIFY HAZARDOUS SUBSTANCES a. Walkthrough the workplace, list all substances used or generated b. Obtain MSDS from the manufacturer/importer (phone number on the label) and check the MSDS to see if the substance is hazardous c. Check the MSDS issue date is within the last 5 years d. Create a hazardous substances Register e. Place MSDS on file, and create an index for the file (index example and template over page) f. Keep a register readily accessible to workers who use or may be exposed to the substances

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COVER STORY g. For non-hazardous substances, including MSDS on the register are optional.

STEP 5.2: ASSESS THE RISKS Determine who will do the assessment and who will need to have input or be consulted. a. Review MSDS, labels, and any other hazard information. b. Inspect work area and talk to staff to determine how the hazardous substances are really being used.

In some cases, technical assistance may be needed to establish exposure levels (e.g. - air monitoring, or checking if ventilation systems work properly). c. Compare how the substances are actually being used to the recommendations on the MSDS and determine whether any differences are presenting a risk to safety or health. d. Identify any changes needed and determine how these will be implemented. Ensure the appropriate manager/s is responsible for implementation. e. Document the risk assessment and determine when assessment should be repeated (when things change significantly if problems are reported, or at least every 5 years). f. You can use your own format to keep records.

STEP 5.3: CONTROL THE RISKS Ensure risks have been controlled as far as practically possible. a. Consider •

Using a safer product (e.g.- a non-hazardous product) • Using ventilation in the work area or next to the work • Using equipment to reduce potential contact with chemicals (e.g. Pumping instead of decanting) • Using the chemical away from other work areas •

Using safe work methods (e.g.implement procedures and permits

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for confined space work) •

Selecting personal protective equipment (PPE) suited to the chemical and the work – refer to the MSDS or speak with an OSH professional or safety equipment suppliers. Make sure you choose the correct type of gloves, respirators, etc. b. Ensure controls are well maintained and working properly

STEP 5.4: EMPLOYEES

TRAINING

TO

a. Employees who use or may be exposed to hazardous substances need to have adequate information, instruction, and training about the substances b. Information and training must cover: • Potential health risks and toxic effects of the hazardous substance; • Control measures and how to use them; • Care and use of personal protective equipment; and • If applicable, health surveillance required (eg. Blood lead tests) c. Consider language barriers – information may need a translation d. Verbal explanations of the hazards, controls, care, and use of PPE and health surveillance (if needed) should be provided e. Keep records of training.

NOTE: Simply referring to a file of MSDS and asking an employee to review them is not training.

STEP 5.5: REVIEW a. Ensure MSDS’s are kept updated– each MSDS should be issued less than 5 years ago – call the manufacturer/importer for an updated MSDS copy. b. Risk assessments must be reviewed at least every 5 years – or earlier if problems arise or things change c. New chemicals must be added to the register only after it has been assessed, controlled and staff has been trained

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d.

Controls need to be reviewed regularly to ensure they are working properly – conduct workplace inspections, test ventilation systems, change filters in ventilation systems, inspect and maintain PPE 6.0

CHEMICAL INVENTORY

The chemical inventories should be created and updated to provide clear information about chemicals stored and used in workplaces. The chemical inventory aims at identifying hazardous chemicals in the workplace as well as encourage proper usage and pollution prevention.

The following steps are involved in the preparation of chemical inventory a.

Preparation of Chemical Inventory or chemical log template b.

Record of chemical information via Physical Walk-through. c.

Record of Chemical Usage (Chemical Balance) d.

Regular Review of Chemical Inventory All hazardous substances purchased for use on-site should be entered in the Chemical inventory. The following information should be included in the chemical inventory or chemical log.

The typical chemical log format contains the following parts.

• General Data • RSL data • MSDS data Overall chemical log format contains the following data i. Sr. No. ii. Name of chemical Manufacturer/ Supplier iii. Commercial name of a chemical iv. Category v. Chemical function vi. Average consumption per month vii. Supplier compliance with RSL – Yes / No. viii.

Name of RSL ix. CAS No. x. MSDS available – Yes / No.

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COVER STORY xi. Signal word xii. Hazard identification – Risk phrase or Hazard statements xiii.

Action plan The chemical inventory or log will be reviewed when new or additional quantities of chemicals are purchased.

7.0

LABELLING

All containers received for use and secondary containers to be clearly labeled as to describe the contents and hazards they contain. Including the following: •

Pictogram: A symbol plus other graphic elements, such as a border, background pattern, or color, that are intended to convey specific information about the hazards of a chemical.

• Signal words: A single word used to indicate the relative level of severity of the hazard and alert the reader to a potential hazard on the label. The signal words used are “Danger” and “Warning.” “Danger” is used for the more severe hazards, while “Warning” is used for less severe hazards.

Hazard statement: A statement assigned to a hazard class and category that describes the nature of the hazard(s) of a chemical, including, where appropriate, the degree of hazard.

•

• Precautionary statement: Statement(s) that convey information on how to prevent or minimize the negative effects of coming in contact with the product. Precautionary statements fall into 4 categories: prevention, response, storage, and disposal.

As the employer, the manager is required to ensure that containers in the workplace are labeled. You may use the same label from the supplier or you may label workplace containers with alternatives, such as third party systems (e.g., National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) or Hazardous Materials Identification System (HMIS)) in addition to the other required information.

50

8.0 STORAGE The following requirements need to comply with all hazardous substance storage areas: • The area is secured and covered.

• Containers are stored on impervious surfaces (i.e. Epoxy treated surfaces).

• Secondary containment units are in place.

• The area is well ventilated.

• Accessible safety shower/eyewash nearby (within 30 meters).

• Restriction on drinking, eating, and smoking.

• Spill kits with materials for containment and absorption.

• Fire‐fighting equipment, fire hoses, and/or fire extinguishers.

• Signs indicating PPE required to work in the area.

• Incompatible materials to be segregated.

• Flammable and combustible materials should be stored away from ignition or heat sources.

• Regular inspections required

9.0 EMERGENCY RESPONSE The appropriate emergency management provisions should be available for use in the event of a chemical emergency (i.e. Spill or exposure). The emergency response equipment should include: • Spill kits or containment equipment • Safe work procedures for spills or release of chemicals • Fire blankets/extinguishers • First aid kits • Eyewash stations/eyewash kits/ emergency showers • Emergency shutdown procedures for equipment • Appropriate numbers of trained emergency personnel and first aiders • Appropriately displayed emergency contact details • PPE

10.0 DISPOSAL OF HAZARDOUS SUBSTANCES

The chemical wastes should be properly packaged, labeled, and stored in suitable designated areas.

Labeling will include the material identifier and a hazard pictogram with the correct classification of the chemical (if relevant). Chemical waste should not be mixed with other waste. PPE must be used when handling chemical waste as per the SDS or risk assessment findings.

Ensure that all hazardous substances are disposed of by qualified contractors who have obtained legal approval to collect, transport, and dispose of each specific hazardous waste category as defined by local law.

11.0

TRAINING

The staff is provided with suitable instruction and training to enable them to work safely with hazardous substances. All staff should receive training on the following: • Hazards of substances used • Risks to health presented using those substances • Relevant workplace exposure limits • Relevant safety data sheet (SDS) information • The significant findings of risk assessments • Precautions to be taken to prevent or reduce exposure • Proper use of equipment and control measures.

• Proper disposal methods for hazardous substances

12. CONCLUSION The chemical management system(CMS) is a comprehensive tool which gives guideline and requirements to comply during daily chemical handling and usage.

While implementing the CMS the commitment from top management is equally important as like the various activities like risk assessment, chemical inventory, chemical storage and handling, labeling, emergency preparedness, and disposal of hazardous substances. A proper

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COVER STORY chemical management policy, training, sustainability focus, and top management involvement with commitment are the driving forces for the successful implementation of CMS in the process house. We at BTRA Mumbai through technical services would like to assist mills for

implementation of CMS in their unit.

References: 1.Munn, K., 2011. The Chemicals in Products Project: Case Study of the Textiles Sector. Geneva, Switzerland.

2. Stenborg, E., 2013. Making sense of risk. An analysis of framings in media

of the chemical risks of textiles, toys, and paint. Research Policy Institute, Lund University, Lund, Sweden.

3.Chemical management guide and training for manufacturer -1, page 25: powered by Sumerra for Outdoor Industry Association.

SWOT ANALYSIS OF GUJARAT TEXTILE WET PROCESSING AND APPAREL INDUSTRIES C. R. MADHU Lecturer Gujarat, Textile wet processing industries are settled with huge numbers itself. Approximately 600 – 700 process houses are running their business including large scale to small scale, in Gujarat. Cotton in Ahmedabad, Synthetic like polyester in Surat, majorly covering the market.

Small areas are also dealing in

opportunities and threats for them settled externally.

Agriculture is the first largest industry, which provides employment and textiles, second largest employment provider in India. Around 38 million people are performing duties in textile and apparel industries. 14 % industrial production has been covered by textile industries. India’s 8 % GDP is with these industries. 21 % export market of India, handed by textile and apparel organizations.

So the SWOT analysis for further development is necessary.

SWOT Analysis

Kutchchh, Jetpur, Jodhpur, Bharuch, Ankleshwar etc. But the areas are beneficial, economically strong for textiles, working resources are manageable are the basic parameters for the settling the industry. For that, SWOT analysis is must. SWOT means Strength, Weakness, Opportunities and Threats. Here, the literature is dealing with the analysis for Textile Wet Processing industries in Gujarat.

Introduction Any Organization undertaking the SWOT analysis (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats analysis) for analyzing its strength and weakness present internally and

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Strength: y Self-reliant and Independent textile process houses are in major number in Gujarat. y In concern with cotton and polyester, raw materials are available in sufficient level. In 2019-20, till Feb – 20, Gujarat has produced 9,272,630 tons cotton, which is 52.2 % in crop market of the state.

Also fast growing in synthetic fabric producers. y Gujarat majorly covers good entrepreneurs. Gujarat textile industries handed by these entrepreneurs for setting up to growth of industries. y Textile processing industries are rich in the case of cheap and skill labours, which are highly in demand for running the industries

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successfully. y Due to fashion, comfort and innovations, demand of variously processed textile materials are demanded in huge quantity. y Particular areas (SEZ park) built by Government of Gujarat for textile industries. y Economy of textile market is growing day by day, specifically in Gujarat. y Government has started skill development courses for textile wet processing labours and apparel manufactures requirement. y Community Development programs also running for improving the sewing and stitching skill by Government in both, rural and urban areas. y Various sectors involved in textile processing market and apparel industries are bifurcated as follow: y Pretreatment units y Dyeing and Printing units y Finishing units y Washing units (Laundry units) y Stitching units y Garment units y Special art producers on textile and apparel Weakness: y Cotton produced in Gujarat is highly contaminated, compare to other states and countries. So the yield of large produced raw material is low. The quality of such material is also poor.

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COVER STORY y For improving the quality and production, technology is lacking in Gujarat. Still farmers following traditional methods without up gradation in techniques. y Labours –laws are unfavorable, and technology is old. So the skills of labours are less compared to other countries. So the production

y

y y

y

y

declined. y Communication between Government, Industries and Labours has not any identical strategy and correspondence to such situation. y Industries have not any value addition department for improving their product to sustain in foreign market. y Power, Indirect Taxes and Rate of

y

y

y

Interests are much higher. Industries are in heavy debt.

Certification for labours skill advancement is not demanded by textile wet processors and apparel manufacturers.

Opportunities: Regularly, world textile trading increases with 3 – 4% year by year, and domestic growth rate is 6 – 8% per year. It shows potentiality of domestic and international market.

As per the market demand, diversification and innovations in product ranges are possible in Gujarat.

Market for textile wet processors and apparel manufacturers are with wide boundary. There is not any restriction in development and innovations.

Government has introduced Startup and Innovation policies at study level. So the student can also innovate and start his own start-up with government funding.

Small and medium scales industries are widely recognized by foreign market for exporting the material.

Market for application of technical

y

y

y y

y

y

y y

y

textiles in apparel is still open for innovations and new designs.

Gujarat has the chances for increasing Unit Value Realization with producing value added products and product with new technological application.

Utilization of IT in industries improve the communication more transparent and reduced the same exerceises.

Threats: Processing industries from developing countries are in competition.

Quality of processing as well as for garment has to be improve regularly and also achieve the demand of purchaser.

Labour laws and Environmental laws are the big challenge for wet processing industries in Gujarat.

Satisfaction of customer with demand, supply, price and quality.

Quality assurance and environmental standards like, SA, ISO,OHSAS etc.

Bilateral agreements reduced the Gujarat export.

SUSTAINABILITY OF REACTIVE DYES FOR CELLULOSIC COLORATION NSK SRINIVASAN | HASMUKH SHAH UMTA Management &Texstyles Academy ,Vapi, Gujarat, India

Introduction Colouring of cellulose substances with reactive dyes is a very popular commercial approach. eactive dyes are known as the best for cotton for its wide range of applications and better fastness properties.

Reactive are the most important class of colours for the dyeing of cotton.

For the wide range of applications and

52

better fastness properties reactive are the superior for cotton fabric. ndia enjoys a leading position in the reactive dyes segment (end-use in the cotton textile segment) with low threat of imports. The demand of reactive dyes has grown at a healthy CAGR of 8% for the period FY2012-FY2017.

The

major

export

destinations

of dyes are the United States of America (USA), followed by Turkey, Bangladesh, Germany, Italy, Brazil, and China. Reactive dyes contributed 52% in total exports volume CARE Ratings expects the domestic dyes industry to witness the growth of around 8.50% over FY2017-FY2022 mainly driven by growth in export volume and demand from the textile industry. Key drivers for growth shall

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March 2020

COVER STORY be an increase in disposable income, higher penetration in the rural market, and around 75% share of cotton fabric in total fabric consumption. 1

in the cotton textile segment) with a low threat of imports. The demand of reactive dyes has grown at a healthy CAGR of 8% for the period FY2012-FY2017.

There are three areas involved – Sustainability, Reactive Dyes, and Cellulosic Coloration.

Relevant information pertaining to the above three areas are presented in this paper.

Structural changes in environmental regulations in China have improved the cost competency and sales volume of Indian domestic players while reducing imports of dyes intermediates.

Major causes for market share increase of reactive

CARE Ratings expects the domestic dyes industry to witness the growth of around 8.50% over FY2017-FY2022 mainly driven by growth in export volume and demand from the textile industry.

Substantial increase in cotton consumption in recent years. Strong demand for bright and deep shades.

Wide shade spectrum. Excellent brightness. Acceptable wet fastness level. Suitability for all application techniques of Dyeing & Printing methods on any conventional or modern machines by the exhaust, semi-continuous & continuous systems. Research and development efforts for meeting the environmental requirements. Easy availability and cost-effectiveness.

What is sustainability?

n India, the total installed capacity for various dyes is estimated at 380000-400000 MTPA as of FY2017.

The domestic production of the dyes is estimated at 205000 MT during FY2017. Both Reactive and Disperse dyes are major contributors to the total installed capacity as well as production.

India enjoys a leading position in the reactive dyes segment (end-use

March 2020

Export trend of dyes in India

The major export destinations of dyes are the United States of America (USA), followed by Turkey, Bangladesh, Germany, Italy, Brazil, and China.

Reactive dyes contributed 52% in total export volume followed by Azo dyes (25%), Disperse dyes (6%), Basic dyes (4%), Acid dyes (2%), and Other dyes (11%) during FY2017.

Source: Department of Chemicals and Petrochemicals Source: Table –3 Indian Dyes and Dyes Intermediate Industry, Ratings, careratings.com

Dyestuff Industry Cycle in the Indian Context

Sustainability requires that Human Activity which uses Natures’ Resources at a rate at which they can be replenished naturally.

Reactive Dyes Market

Overall demand driver for domestic dyes in India is the textile Industry with 70% consumption of dyes followed by Food (8%), Leather (6%), Paper (5%), and other industries (11%). India is the major player in the reactive dyes segment with a low threat of imports.

Hence, the demand for reactive dyes has grown at a healthy CAGR of 8% for the period FY2012-FY2017.

Domestic Dyes Industry

Sustainability is the ability to exist constantly and the capacity to maintain a Process or State indefinitely. It is also expressed as meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of Future Generations to meet their own needs.

An Unsustainable situation occurs when Nature Capital (the sum total of Nature’s Resources) is used up faster than it can be replenished.

In addition to natural resources, we also need social and economic resources. Sustainability is not just environmentalism. We also find concerns about social equity and economic development.

November 10, 2017

The Indian Dyestuff Industry is well placed for long term sustainable growth Source: Table-4. Bodal Chemicals - Coming out with flying colours, Investor Presentation, March 2017 Source: Department of Chemicals & Petrochemicals

Source: Table – 1&2 Indian Dyes and Dyes Intermediate Industry, Ratings, careratings.com

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Colorant Industry Overview – Global and Indian Source: FICCI, Ministry of Chemicals & fertilizers, Systematix Institutional Research, Industry Reports,

53

COVER STORY

Company Annual Reports, Gujarat Dyestuff Manufacturers’ Association, Bloomberg

•

Be available at a competitive or lower price

•

Have a minimum environmental footprint for all the processes involved Be manufactured from renewable resources Use only ingredients that are safe to both humans and the environment No negative impact on food supply or water

•

Strong growth in key end-user industries.

Tightening of environment norms •

•

•

•

A necessity Products4 •

• and increasing operating costs in China.

• Rising demand for finished products from India.

• The shift from generic / commodity to high-value specialty / ecofriendly colorants.

• A switch from small and unorganized players to large integrated players Source: Table-5, 6, &7 Kiri Industries Limited, Investor Presentation December 2018, www.kiriindustries. com

Justifications for the growth are

54

Ideal sustainable product 4

•

•

Provide an equivalent function to the product it replaces Performs as well as or better than the existing product

•

for

Sustainable

2012 - World population 7 billion 2050 -expected to rise to over 9 billion Increases demand food, energy, water, resources, chemicals Increases environmental burden -pollution depletion of finite nonrenewable resources (e.g. fossil fuels)

Three Pillars of Sustainability & Sustainability Criteria 5 Environmental - Ecosystem Services, Green Engineering & Chemistry, Air Quality, Water Quality, Stressors - Reduce effects by stressors, pollutants, greenhouse gas emissions, genetically modified organisms,Resource Integrity-Reduce adverse effects by reducing waste generation, increased recycling, and ensuring proper waste management; restore resources by mitigating and cleaning up accidental or intentional releases Social - Environmental Justice, Human Health, Participation, Education, Resource Security, Sustainable Communities

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March 2020

COVER STORY Economic – Jobs, Incentives, Supply and Demand, Natural Resource Accounting, Costs, Prices The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals - The Global Agenda 6

In October 2015, more than 150 countries adopted 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to end poverty, protect the planet, and ensure prosperity for all by 2030.

Governments, Organizations, Businesses, and Civil Society need to play their part For the Goals to be reached. It is generally acknowledged that in order for meaningful progress to be made towards the SDGs, all parts of society must work together to meet the targets.

The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals 6 1. No Poverty 2.Zero Hunger 3.Good Health and Well-Being 4.Quality Education 5. Gender Equality 6.Clean Water and Sanitation 7.Affordable and Clean Energy 8. Decent Work and Economic Growth 9.Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure10.

Reduced Inequalities11.Sustainable Cities and Communities12. Responsible Consumption and Productoin13. Climate Action. 14. Life below Water15. Life on Land 16.Peace, Justice, and Strong Institutions 17.

Partnerships for the Goals The United Nations Development Goals6

Sustainable

Source: Table -8.Sustainable Development Goals, UNDP Eco-FriendlyTextile Coloration

Importance and Need Textiles Manufacture uses intensive chemical applications during fiber production and wet processing.

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Textile Dyeing Industry had faced many challenges..

Advances-in-Sustainable-Dyeing Cotton Works 8

Environmental pollution abatement, Maintenance of Eco balance, and Social Accountability are increasing priorities over the other issues in the

Sustainable development is a development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.

global market environment.

The impact of Green Chemistry in Coloration is seen in Dye Chemistry, Auxiliary Chemicals & Application Processes.

Solutions for Sustainable Textiles Systems Needed - ISO 9001, ISO 14001, Good Laboratory Practice( CLP) , Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) Best Available Techniques (BAT ) Cleaner Production ( CP ) &

Green Chemistry.

Eco Needs - German Consumer Goods Ordinance, OekoTex, Organic Cotton, GOTS, Bluesign, ReaCh, RSL, ZDHC, Detox, Toxic Threads, Cradle to Cradle (C2), ETAD, Cefic, Fluoro Council, TEGEWA, Sustainable Textile Production, Sustainable Apparel Coalition, United Nations Global Compact, Global Recycled Standard, and others.

Drivers for Sustainable Solutions in Textile Industry Legislation, Ecolabels, Retailers / Brands, Green Consumers, Environmental Management Systems, NGO’s Source: Table-9. Changing fashion: The clothing and textile industry at the brink of radical transformation, Environmental rating and innovation report 2017 WWF Switzerland, September 2017

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Many of the Technologies needed to significantly reduce the environmental footprint in textile manufacturing already exist • Environmentally Friendlier Preparation for Dyeing & Enzyme Applications • Environmentally Friendlier Preparation for Dyeing- Cationic Cotton • Environmentally Friendlier Dyes High Fixation – Low Impact Reactive Dyes • Environmentally Friendlier Dyes High Fixation – Low Impact Reactive Dyes AVITERA SE Dyes (Huntsman) • Environmentally Friendlier Dyes - High Fixation –Low Impact Reactive Dyes Bezaktiv GO ( CHT/Bezema) • Environmentally Friendlier Dyes High Fixation –Low Impact Reactive Dyes Cadira Reactive (Dystar) • Environmentally Friendlier Dyes - Sustainably Produced Dyes – Earth Colors- Archroma • Environmentally Friendlier Dyes Sustainably Produced Dyes – Levafix ECO – Dystar • Environmental Impact Measurement - Tools for Measuring Sustainable Dye Methods • Sustainable Dyeing Equipment Dyeing: The Road to Sustainability, Efficient Package Dyeing for Yarn, Low Liquor Ratio Jet Dyeing, Low Liquor Beam Preparation and Dyeing, Cold Pad Batch Dyeing, Monforts E-Control, Foam Dyeing, and Finishing, Garment Dyeing: Tonello Core, Jeanologia e-Flow, Sustainable Drying Technology, Control & Measurement Systems

SWOT Analysis Strength Strong demand for bright and deep

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COVER STORY threat of imports. The demand of reactive dyes has grown at a healthy CAGR of 8% for the period FY2012-FY2017. It is envisaged that the domestic dyes industry to witness the growth of around 8.50% over FY2017-FY2022..

• Environmental Solutions, as well as Sustainability, are key factors for the continuous success of Reactive Dyes as well as Cellulosic Coloration. Lot of Innovative approaches and Development Efforts are in progress from all stakeholders for growth and sustainability.

shades. Wide shade spectrum.

Excellent brightness. Acceptable wet fastness level. Suitability for all application techniques of Dyeing & Printing methods on any conventional or modern machines by the exhaust, semi-continuous & continuous systems. Research and development efforts for meeting the environmental requirements. Easy availability and cost-effectiveness.

India has a strong base for Reactive dyes manufacture. India also enjoys a leading position in the reactive dyes segment meant for Cellulosic Coloration with a low threat of imports.

Weakness

Reactive Dyeing have a lesser fixation while comparing with Other Classes Dyes used for Cellulosic Coloration.

More control is needed to take care of the Colour in the effluent.

High amounts of salt and long dyeing cycles (exhaust).Low degree of fixation. Need for long washingoff cycles. Moderate light, wet-light, gas fading, photochromy issues, and poor chlorine fastness in some shades. Challenges of reproducibility in critical shades Opportunity India is now the largest producer of Cotton in the World. Also in the coming years, by enhancing productivity and performance, it would result in a very favorable situation. Reactive Dyes have a great advantage being the major colour for Cellulosic Coloration.

“ 56

Also in the manufacture and export of various classes of dyes, Reactive Dyes have a leading position.

Threat

Going Forward - Sustainability of Reactive Dyes for Cellulosic Coloration • India is now the largest producer of Cotton in the World. Reactive dyes are known as the best Colorant for Cellulosic Colouration. The result is a very value-added scenario for Reactive Dyes.

• India enjoys a leading position in the reactive dyes segment (end-use in cotton textile segment) with low

• Reactive dyes are the major contributors to the total installed capacity as well as the production of Dyes in India.

References: 1. Table - 1, 2 &3 Indian Dyes and Dyes Intermediate Industry, Ratings, careratings.com November 10, 2017 2. Table - 4. Bodal Chemicals - Coming out with flying colours, Investor Presentation, March, 2017 3. Table - 5, 6, &7 Kiri Industries Limited, Investor Presentation December 2018, www.kiriindustries. com 4. New Sustainable Chemistry, A Presentation, Textile Centre of Excellence, craiglawrance@textiletraining.com 4th April 2017.

5. Sustainability Primer 6. Table -8.Sustainable Development Goals, UNDP 7. Table - 9. Changing fashion: The clothing and textile industry at the brink of radical transformation, Environmental rating and innovation report 2017 WWF Switzerland, September 2017 8. Advances in Sustainable Dyeing Cotton Works,cottonworks.com

“Don’t Let Yesterday Take Up Too Much Of Today.”

– Will Rogers www.textilevaluechain.com

“ March 2020

COVER STORY CURRENT CHALLENGES AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT IN THE FIELD OF TEXTILE COLOURATION PANKAJ DESAI, Colourtex In the last two decades Textile Industries have observed tremendous changesin the field of product safety and environmental awareness. In the other words Textile Industries globally is passing through a very challenging phase.All these challenges are real and perceived environmental risk, pressure from retailers, NGOs and even from legislation.

In the middle of 2011 Greenpeace published “Dirty Laundry” -study report on release of hazardous chemicals by the textile industries in China. As a part of the investigations, Greenpeace also uncovered links between these polluting facilities and a number of major clothing, fashion and sportswear brands.

All major brands and retailers took this very positively and came up with plan to phase out top priority eleven hazardous chemicals from supply chain by 2020. H&M, C&A, Nike, Adidas, Li Ning and Puma joined hands together and formed group to execute their commitment on Road to Zero dischargeand named this group as Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC).

These new developments in global textile supply chain bring huge challenges for Dyes and Chemicals manufacturers thuscreated lot many opportunities for responsible manufacturers.

In general, dyes and chemical manufacturers need to ensure that their products complies with the requirements of the eleven priority chemicals. All textile processers also need to ensure that they do not intentionally use any of the eleven priority chemicals in their processing and will phase out from their factory premises. Additionally, they also need to ensure reduction in water consumption, waste water generation, waste generation and conservation of resources, We are approaching the deadline of 2020 and in the meantime the NGO has acknowledged significant progress in The Roadmap to Zero program. In the last couple of years more brands and retailers joined the program and in the meantime this group also shaped up formally and registered as The ZDHC Foundation as nonprofit organization in Amsterdam. Slowly and steadily this ZDHC foundation is becoming well established common platform for whole textile supply chain having total 165 contributors including 30 brands, 114 value chain affiliates and 21 associates. ZDHC decided to take its program to another level and in January 2020 they launched The Roadmap to Zero program emphasizing on Safer Input Chemicals, Smarter Processes and Better

March 2020

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Outputs.

For safer chemical inputs ZDHC developed Chemical Gateway with clear classification of chemicals in four different levels. By end of 2020 year ZDHC is going to phase out level 0 (self-declaration) and all their contributors need to ensure minimum Level-1 compliance.

Additionally, ZDHC also updated its MRSL for chemical manufacturers and published version 2.0 which include some additional hazardous chemicals in addition to initial eleven priority chemicals. One year transition period is given to chemical manufacturers and suppliers to ensure compliance with ZDHC MRSL V.2. This will help to ensure phasing out of hazardous chemicals from supply chain. In December 2019 along with MRSL V.2, ZDHC also published candidate list which include potential chemicals list which may get included in Version 3 depending upon further evidential proof from their lifecycle assessment on their hazardous character.

Smarter Process is crucial link between inputs and outputs. Safer inputs make a big difference, as long as they are used in the right way,when good procedures and best practice are in place, outputs become cleaner and better. ZDHC provides practical help, guidance, training and support to the suppliers on best available technologies and procedures.

For ensuring better out puts ZDHC measures indicators like wastewater quality, sludge quality, or air emissions.

Outputs help to validate the good work that’s being done with inputs and processes.

Being Responsible Care Company Colourtex always promote best practices and processes suitable for sustainable future. Hence we very well understand the responsibility to contribute in providing solution to our customers for minimizing the environmental impact in textile processing. Colourtex has been always focusing on introducing new products & processes to provide sustainable solutions to our valued customers.

To provide right solutions for such newer challenges in the field of safer chemicals and processes, Colourtex developed Sustainable Product Ranges in Reactive Dyes and Disperse Dyes which are based on the best available technology in the global textile dyestuff industry. These innovative product ranges are completely in compliance of ZDHC MRSL v.2 and fastness requirement of retailers while minimizing the overall impact on environment and ecology. Ultimately, providing right sustainable solution for our valued customers and textile industries in total.

57

COVER STORY Cora CARE EF:

100 90 80 70 60 A 50

Temperature

40 30 20 10 0

H

I

J

Mixed Alkali Dosing

140

160

180

200

H Soaping at 60C with 2 Levocol WRL I Cold Wash J Dye Fixing ( Op�onal)

G

Conven�onal Process fordeep shades B

D

C

J H

F

E

I

K

MixedAlkali Dosing

Dye Dosing

Total Dyeing �me : 3 Hrs 15 Mts 60 80 100 120 TIME A Salt D Alkali dosing Auxiliaries E Rinse with water B Dye dosing for 20 mt F Neutralise with Ace�c Acid C Hold for 15 mts G Hot wash at 80C 20

40

L

Drain 140

160

180

200

H Soaping with 2 g/l Levocol WRL I Addl soaping for deep shades J Hot Wash K Cold wash

210

220

240

260

L Dye fixing ( op�onal)

Fig 2

CoraCARE EF process for deep shades on Cotton: Conventional dyeing and wash off process for deep shades on cotton: Advantages with CoraCARE EF range/ process over conventional dyeing process:

BENEFITS TO CUSTOMERS Ecologically viable to promote/ work for

Dye Dosing

G

F

E

conventional reactives even with the minor changes in application parameters including water quality.

CoraCARE EF: New reactive dyes product range designed and developed by Colourtex is fully in compliance of ZDHC MRSL V.2 and also having patential for significant 

D

Fig 1

Second generation high wash fast disperse dyes range for Polyester & blends • Disperse Dyes free from all banned amines • High wash fast disperse dyes • Incompliance with all relevant requirements of Restricted Substance List • Elimination of intermediate reduction clearing helps in shortening of dyeing cycle for polyester/cotton blends and reduction in water consumption and waste generation.

• Full range with all gamot of shades available

Reactive dyestuff range free from all banned

C

Drain Total Dyeing �me : 3 Hrs 15 Mts 20 40 60 80 100 120 TIME A Salt D Alkali dosing Auxiliaries E Rinse with cold water B Dye dosing for 20 mt F Neutralise with Ace�c Acid C Hold for 10 mts G Soaping at 60C with 2 g/l Levoco

Coralene HP:

FEATURES OF PRODUCT RANGE

CoraCARE Process for deep shades B

Temperature

Innovative Reactive dyes range for sustainable processing of Cotton & blends • Reactive dyes free from all banned amines (inluding p-CA free Navy & Black) • Incompliance with heavy metal requirements of ZDHC MRSL V.2 • Incompliance with all relevant requirements of Restricted Substance List • Have high fixation and easy wash-off properties which helps in shortening of dyeing cycle and reduction in water consumtion and waste generation.

• Good wet fastness properties

100 90 80 70 60 A 50 40 30 20 10 0

special

Heavy metals



Increase in brand value for processors

•

30-40% saving in water

Fast fixation dyestuff



Reduction in process cycle and can increase

•

20-23% saving in dyeing cycle •

10-15% saving in energy •

Dyed Fabric is free from all rstricted substances.

amines (including p-CA free Black and Navy) &

brands following Detox 2020 & ZDHC.

productivity. 

Saving of energy due to short dyeing cycle



Suitable for both exhaust and continuos application

Less substantivity of hydrolyzed dye



Easy washing off at low temperature resulting shortening of washing cycle and increase in productivity.



Other features useful for application

Saving of Energy &Water



Better Fastness



Dischargeable



Low salt dyeable resulting in low load on effluent

resource saving thus providing sustainable solution to the textile processing house.

FEATURES AND BENEFITS OF CoraCARE EF range:In the processing of 100% Cotton and regenerated cellulose, CoraCARE EF range of reactives dyes provides very robust application profile with the unique propertieswith high fixation and easy wash-off, this range helps in shortening the dyeing cycle compared to conventional process. Robustness of the range facilitates good lab to bulk and bulk to bulk reproducibility compared to

58

With the increase in use of Polyester microfibre, also the demand for special chemical finishes for the dyed fabric and the boom in elastane containing fabrics, the demand for high wash fastness disperse dyes has been growing much faster than the growth rate of polyester itself.

Leading retailer brands especially the sportwear suppliers are the driving force behind this demand. Colourtex initially introduced Coralene XF dyes as the first offer meeting this requirement and continued its efforts to overcome certain limitations of Coralene XF range and introduced Coralene HP range. This second generation high wash fastness disperse dyes range meets the stringent wet fastness requirements of retailers while helping the dyer to shorten the process therby saving in energy, water and chemicals.

Exhaust Dyeing ofPolyester/Cotton Blend:

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March 2020

COVER STORY With the increase in trend of polyester/Cotton blends due to various reasons like new developments in polyester ( microfibre), shortage & higher cost of cotton etc. the processing sector faces more challenges. In addition to difficulty in achieving stringent wet fastness properties, conventional long process cycles reduces the productivity in the mill. Colourtex closely working with trend setters in the textile processing sector to address these issues and developed shorter dyeing cycles using the unique properties of these two innovative ranges in reactives and disperse dyes.

dyeing: • 30 % saving in water • 25 % saving in energy • 30 % Higher mill productivity with shortening of dyeing cycle • Dyed fabric free from all restricted substance under regulatory as well as ZDHC.

Continuous Dyeing of Polyester/Cotton Blend:

Polyester/cotton blend dyeing in single bath-two stages can be more beneficial by removing intermediate reduction clearing process using Coralene HP dyestuff and subsequently cotton dyeing with CoraCARE EF can reduce dyeing time,water and energy

Conventional exhaust process for PES/CO Blends: In the conentional exahust dyeing process for Polyester/ Cotton blends in medium/deep shades, after dyeing the polyester part at high temp( 130°C), for achieving the fastness properties, the fabric is subjected to reduction clearing with 2 g/l Caustic Soda and 2 g/l Sodium Hydrosulphite at 80°C for 20 minutes followed by hot wash, neutralising and cold wash. Following this the cotton portion is

Conventional process: In the case of conventional continuous dyeing process of polyester/cotton blends with disperse & reactive dyes, the polyster portion is dyed first by thermofixation at 210C followed by reduction clearing and after treatment..

Fabric needs to be dried before commencing the dyeing of the cotton portion either by pad-dry-chemical pad-steam or cold-pad-batch process. This slows down the production in the unit and also increases the cost due to number of additional process steps including intermediate drying.

Innovative process with Coralene HP dyes

dyed with Reactive dyes as per the normal process which includes minimum seven wash baths of which at least two are at boil and two at 80°C respectively.

Innovative process with Coralene HP & Cora CARE EF for PES/CO Blends: In the innovative process developed and estabilshed with Coralene HP & Cora CARE EF range, the reduction clearing step and related three wash baths are eliminated. Similarly, the after treatment baths after the Cotton dyeing are at 60°C and limited to maximum five baths as per the details illustrated in the fig 3 & 4 below. The unique chemistry of Coralene HP dyes facilitates alkaline clearing during the alkali fixation of Reactive dyes. Similarly the low substativity of the hydrolysed part of the Cora CARE EF dyes helps in comparatively easy wash off process while achieving comparable wet fastness properties. Further, with the shortening of the whole dyeing cycle with the unique process, mill productivity increases while saving in precious resources like water and energy.

Benefits over conventional exhaust process for PES/CO

March 2020

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The innovative process with Coralene HP range helps the dyer to complete the dyeing in one continuous pass avoiding the intermediate reduction clearing & drying as per the illustration below. As in the case of exhaust dyeing, the unique property of Coralene HP dyes range facilitates the alkaline clearing during the alkali fixation of the reactive dyeing during steaming thereby achieving comparable wet fastness properties.

In this process, Coralene HP disperse dyes and CoraCARE EF/Coralite FL range of reactive dyes are padded together, dried and thermofix for the disperse dyes before padding through Alkali for the fixation by steaming of reactive dyes. This process helps the dyer to almost double the production in the unit compared to the conventional process and also substantial saving in water ( almost 50%) and energy which minimises the impact on the envronment.

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COVER STORY

TREATABILITY STUDIES AS A TOOL FOR IMPROVINGEFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT PERFORMANCE DR JAIDEEP DUDHBHATE, PH.D. Technical Advisor

Most of the process industries such as textile, sugar, pharmaceutical, pesticide, pigment manufacturing etc. consume large amount of water.

This water after use gets contaminated (or polluted) with the chemicals used in the process. This is then discharged out as effluents. The type of effluent generated depends on the products manufactured. Even in the same industry the nature and volume of effluent varies due to unit specific processes adopted by each unit based on their unique requirements.

This means that although a general treatment process may be similar, each customer will need a specific design of ETP to treat his effluent adequately. Hence for each customer for design of wastewater treatment plant (or ETP as is known popularly) we need to have data not only on quality and quantity of effluent, but also on its treatability options.

What is treatability study? These are laboratory scale experiments / trials basically carried out to evaluate all the options available for treatment of particular waste water.

company (in Western Maharashtra) is in operation over last many years.

Company was having conventional treatment system for treating effluent generated in the process.

Though the unit was meeting the then existing effluent treatment norms, in order to meet the future requirements regarding ETP norms, company was proactively thinking going for ZLD in a step wise manner.

Existing Aeration tank -

Challenge

Backgr ound One of the leading textile dyeing

Solution –

About couple of years back we used this tool to improve and optimize performance of ETP at one of leading mills.

60

Accordingly experiments were designed for primary physic-chemical followed by anaerobic / aerobic biodegradability testing (both with and without chemical pretreatment) followed by tertiary physic-chemical treatment.

Paralleley effluent treatment plant system assessment was performed.

This included studying performance of all units of existing treatment plant. For ding this check list was developed and used for collecting data and correlating it with system performance was done.

Before going in forward there were quite a few challenges on the way e.g.

1) Improving the existing wastewater treatment plant performance so as to make effluent more suitable for sending it to recycle system.

2) Improve COD reduction 3) Optimize chemical consumptions 4) Reduce the primary sludge generated in the effluent treatment process.

5) Establish the capacity of existing system in treating present as well as future load by doing adequacy assessment cum gap analysis.

Quite a few years back at many mills ETPs were built using “thumb rule” calculations for sizing and dosages. However in many instances lot of modifications were later required to ensure an even minimum performance level.

After a series of discussions with end user approach for moving forward and performance optimization was discussed and implemented.

It was decided that ETP adequacy assessment & treatability studies with both physic-chemical and biological processes will be used for developing the solutions to the problems faced by the ETP team.

Doing this assessment helped in establishing system performance as well as its capacity. At the end of this study a process flow diagram was developed for suggested treatment process and based on this PFD and system assessment it was found that ETP was adequate to handle the design volumetric load provided some minor process changes are made in both existing primary and tertiary treatment units.

Textile effluent is very dynamic and keeps changing on day to day basis considering the variable dyeing & processing recipes that are used in process house which depend on the market requirements.

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COVER STORY During the treatability studies it was also found that “Jar test” needs to be done on daily basis for both primary & tertiary treatment to determine the dose of chemicals needed. This has helped the mill in optimizing the chemical consumptions. It was noticed that almost 18- 20% reduction in chemical consumption happened after few weeks of implementation. This also helped in reducing consequent sludge generation.

BEFORE

BEFORE Variable treated quality

AFTER

AFTER Consistent treated quality

dation studies were done. Biodegradation studies were done in batch mode – both in aerobic and anaerobic mode. Though Anaerobic degradaton did occur it was not very significant. Anaerobic and hence was not explored further.

Physico Chemical Treatment – As a part of primary pre treatment different coagulants were used – Alum, ferric chloride, ferrous sulphate, lime, caustic etc. Different dosages were tried for getting colour reduction and / or removal of COD. Pre-treatment with coagulants gave good results.

Biological treatment Biodegradation study was conducted in batch mode under aerobic conditions The test is conducted in a batch mode for a period of 28 days – 4 weeks. This is to see the feasibility of using biodegradation as a treatment process. .

Lab protocol

Aerobic batch Bio -

Effluen samples were collected, both grab and composite.

The samples were analyzed for routine parameters like pH, COD, BOD, TDS, TSS etc.

Both physico chemical & biolodegra-

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BATCH BIODEGRADATION SET UP

In a litre of effluent sample, biomass was added to have an MLSS quantity of 3 to 5 g/L. Nutrients as a source of N & P were added in sufficient quantity. Aeration was ensured through an aerator and a suitable diffuser. Proper mixing was ensured during the process.

Samples were drawn at predetermined intervals to check COD.

Result On the basis of process flow diagram end user implemented the suggested changes and successfully made the process work on the basis of experience gained during treatability studies. Based on the physico chemical and aerobic biological combination end user has achieved his internal bench mark. This unique approach for developing solution for a complex effluent reduces COD by over 40% in primary stage, thus improving overall treatment efficiency in aerobic treatment. Overall reduction in COD is around 92-95% from 2000- 2500 ppm to less than a limit prescribed by the customer’s internal standard itself speaks of the achievement.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT – Author is grateful to support provided by end user organization.

If You Are Working On Something That You Really Care About, You Don’t Have To Be Pushed. The Vision Pulls You. ― Steve Jobs

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COVER STORY

20 YEARS AHEAD BLUE SIGN Mumbai has experienced market growth in the past 15 years. As the purchasing power consumers within India rapidly increases, it is projected that these consumers will make active decisions to seek out information in order to increase their positive influence

A lot has happened in the last 20 years. The last Volkswagen Beetle rolled through production.

Redbull dropped a man from the stratosphere. Steve Jobs unveiled the first iPod, followed by the iPhone. Facebook launched its social platform. The last 20 years were witness to technologies that changed communication and information sharing as we know it today.

However, there is a general consensus that not enough has happened to move the textile and apparel industry into the environmentally and socially responsible position that has increasingly been demanded by consumers.

The current industry demands are pushing players to implement sustainability policy reaching throughout their supply chain, while increasing traceability, transparency, and accountability. Brands especially find themselves under pressure to provide more information about their products and the product manufacturing process. Moreover, the growing number of certification institutions are finding they have to move quickly to improve their systems to support the low regulated industry in meeting global requirements.

The challenges that the industry is currently facing are multifaceted; fast-fashion has taken over the industry by storm and is the only segment of the fashion industry that

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and reduce negative impacts on the environment and society.

In India, issues for the textile and apparel industry is compounded as the industry expects to see a rise in both domestic consumption and export demands. From 2000 to 2019, India’s textile industry attracted 3.19 billion USD in Foreign Direct Investments. This rise in demand is not expected to slow in the next 20 years. Instead, it is predicted that the market will grow to reach 300 billion by 2024.

These predictions are in large part substantiated by the Indian government’s support through the New Textiles Policy 2020. Under the Prime Ministers’ vision of “Make India”, the policy sets forth a plan to develop a competitive textile industry which is modern and sustainable. To this aim, the government is preparing to construct a 1,000-acre mega textile park.

The future outlook of the Indian textile industry is largely positive.

However, questions remain; how can sustainable solutions be implement-

ed effectively, and are sustainable solutions worth investing in?

While the textile industry contributes to 5% of India’s GDP and employs 100 million people, until now an environmentally conscious industry has not been taken seriously because it seemingly conflicts with India’s national priority of economic development.

The Sustainable Resolution (Su.Re) is a first step in moving India towards a more sustainable textile industry.

Su.Re is an initiative launched by the Union Minister for Textiles, Smriti Zubin Irani, along with India’s 16 largest brands, and the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), in August of last year. The signatories have pledged to work towards reaching goals outlined by the 5-point action plan. Brands have pledged to gain a better understanding of how their products impact the environment; to develop a sustainable supply chain by putting the priority on certified raw materials; they have pledged to make positive material purchasing decisions and ensure material traceability; and to communicate initiatives through labeling, product tags, or campaigns.

The fifth point sets out the expectation that these measures should shift a significant percentage of the signatories’ supply chains to a sustainable chain, meeting the United Nations Sustainable Development Goal for responsible consumption and production (SDG-12) by 2025.

However, one glaring point missing on the 5-point plan set out by Su.Re is a necessary amendment to safe chemical usage and safe production processes. The five-point plan focuses heavily on material sourcing and traceability, and overlooks the importance and impact of chemicals

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March 2020

COVER STORY throughout the apparel manufacturing process. The use of safe chemicals is a necessary part of a responsible supply chain as well as a necessary point to meet the goals of becoming an environmentally conscious industry.

From creating the perfect shade of blue to shaping the stretch of nylons,

developing a chemical composition to meet the garments and industry needs is a key component throughout apparel production.

THE BLUE WAY path paved by Bluesign for the past 20 years has encompassed these chemical and environmental topics when they were not yet trending topics in the textile or apparel industries. While many organizations are now recognizing a need to react, Bluesign has been acting 20 years ahead of time.

For the last 20 years, Bluesign has been advocating for and developing solutions to meet this demand; 20 years before the consumer demand was perceived from the industry.

The Bluesign benchmark is 20 years in the making, and today it is the most efficient way to implement Best Available Technology and guarantee compliance with new international regulations, without compromising on functionality, quality, or design.

What sets the bluesign® SYSTEM apart from other services is its Input Stream Management approach.

The foundation of the Input Stream Management approach is simple; if the materials, chemicals, and processes throughout the production are clean and safe, the product produced will be safe. Through this, it is possible

March 2020

to ensure responsible production practices. Previous solutions tested a finished product and allowed for little flexibility if standards were not met. 20 years ago, Bluesign’s Input Stream Management approach was a revolutionary idea and a first mover towards an industry mindset shift; shifting away from testing a finished end product, to setting criteria along the way for components and processes. Most notably, the bluesign® SYSTEM has implemented a sleek and efficient assessment process, in which the globally accepted standards are integrated into determining a product’s compatibility with the Bluesign and the industry benchmark.

By undertaking goals towards the reduction of resource waste and reduction of emissions, organizations are actively increasing efficiency and improving their overall bottom-line, creating environmental benefits that are in-line with the nation’s economic development interests.

production practices in the textile industry. Today, the idea of a transparent supply chain is moving towards

the norm. However, with processes and supply chain transparency comes the need for industry tools to simplify the communication and collaboration along with the many horizontal and vertical levels of a supply chain.

To meet the third point of the 5-point plan, in which the signatories pledge to make positive choices when choosing resources and ensure traceability, Bluesign provides a web-based platform, the bluesign® CUBE. The CUBE allows for all organizations in a supply chain to connect with

Bluesign, its extensive expert base, experience, and partners, have created a robust solution that combines sustainable practices with solutions that provide the

each other and create a responsible supplier network. The primary and paramount feature of the bluesign® CUBE is its efficient facilitation of traceability of an organization’s supply chain.

industry with economic benefits. The bluesign® SYSTEM is holistic and comprehensive, encompassing the needs throughout the value chain and the end-user.

This scientific systematic approach establishes Bluesign as the industry leader for chemical verification, sustainability, and conscious

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Additionally, point four of the 5-point plan does not address how the signatories will communicate their sustainability claims and labeling procedures to avoid greenwashing. In line with the Bluesign Input Stream Management mindset, when organizations are able to keep track of their production input usage, they will be able to measure and understand their output. This software suite and verification tool can generate

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COVER STORY and environmentally responsible approaches.

Through increased resource efficiency and reducing emissions, a sustainable textile industry will open itself up to innovation, and directly contribute to the national Indian economic development goals.

data verification for Environmental Key Performance Indicators (eKPIs) which are of unparalleled value in creating reports for shareholders, stakeholders, and consumers. Data measures in reduction of emissions, discharge, and increases in resource efficiency create the ability for sound data-driven business strategies and established trust with consumers.

As India takes steps towards a sustainable textile industry, it should take two key points into consideration: First, as the government takes steps towards developing it’s New Textile Policy 2020, possibly through the creation of mega textile parks, it is the hope that India will consider strategic sustainable implementation, and especially considers the importance of safe chemical usage throughout the textile supply chain.

Technological upgrades, enhancement of productivity, and product diversification are set as goals of the New Textile Policy 2020. There is a considerable return of investment

when sustainable and clean processes and Best Available Technology is implemented early on.

Second, when implementing labeling measurements, it is necessary to establish how these claims will be verified. Organizations should have to stand behind their environmental claims with data and facts and figures. Transparent data generation throughout the supply chain is the most fluid and efficient way in which verified data can be established.

Moreover, a verified supply chain can reduce a company’s risk of finding itself in the middle of a PR nightmare.

As Renata Lok-Dessallien, Resident Coordinator of the United Nations in India states, “The future of design is foremost about design with a future.

Without sustainable supply chains, the fashion industry will become less and less viable.”

Let’s reach your goals. Act now and

be 20 years ahead.

Su.Re sets the stage for an industry push in selecting sustainable

The pandemic situation is going through to e-commerce – due to covid 19 The government of India announces the nationwide lockdown due to which shut down of manufacturing unit, payment delayed has happened now a days. Most of the areas of the country are under the restriction of delivery of non-essential items. Like other sectors E Commerce sector also suffer a lot of problem which directs through the financial crises in upcoming days.

Because of COVID-19 pandemic, the entire retail industry is going to suffer a difficult uncertainity and challenging time more than ever. It will take long time to get back in a normal siyuation as before it was. As

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a result millions of jobs at risk is going to happen.

Benetton India Managing Director and CEO Sundeep Chugh told the same thing that Getting back on track will be a long and arduous journey as the way forward looks fluid with millions of jobs at risk.

Fashion retailers on Monday sought government support to ease fund flow and to compensate for essential expenses like vendor payments, rents and salaries, saying many players stare at insolvency and recovery from Covid-19 will be a long and arduous journey and with millions of jobs at risk. As a result of the mandatory closure of retail stores across India, the industry is facing an imminent and massive financial crisis with

major disruption, they said.

Seeking support from the government, he said the aid will not only help the sector survive but will in turn save many families that are supported by the retail employed workforce.Expressing similar views, Bestseller India CEO & Country Head Vineet Gautam said the impact of the coronavirus outbreak on the fashion retail segment is more pronounced.

Fashion retailers are facing imminent financial crisis and insolvency in view of high cost of goods, fixed rentals, employee costs, etc, Gautam added.

He further said that the government needs to come up with a “support package for the industry to ease fund flow and to compensate for essential expenses like vendor payments, rents and salaries”.

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March 2020

NEWS

LOCKDOWN: FASHION RETAILERS HOPE TO GOVT SUPPORT AT THIS PANDEMIC SITUATIONA ; MILLIONS OF JOBS AT RISK

COVER STORY

C6 WATER REPELLENT MR. EDWARD MENEZES (DIRECTOR) Rossari Biotech Ltd Abstract:During the last few years, the easy-care concept has expanded rapidly to include Oil and water-resistant features in many apparel applications. The easy-care concept now encompasses both minimizations of ironing and easiness to clean garments that get stained in day to day use. Fabric manufacturers and chemical manufacturers have made significant advances in finishing processes to ease stain removal and prevent stain penetration Substrates that possess water and oil repellency are desirable for in many textile applications.

Water repellency is increasingly becoming the focus of interest for protective clothing. This repellency can be achieved by implementing water repellent chemicals on textile fibers with minimal effects on other functional properties like strength, flexibility, etc. Water and oil repellant fabrics can be used for a variety of end uses such as outerwear, where the requirement is for a high degree of water repellency and general wear such as expensive silk sarees, where the focus is more both water and oil repellency. Other common end uses for these finishes include upholstery, rugs, carpets, protective clothing Filter fleece, Uniforms, Table cloths, wallpaper, etc, etc.

the former the interstices between warp and weft yarns are completely blocked by the continuous hydrophobic film of the substance and not only water passes through the fabric, but the fabric will become impermeable to air also. Water repellent finish, on the other hand, is one in which the material is made water repellent without filling up the interstices of fabric completed which results in fabric permeable to air but not to water. Mechanical treatment, chemical treatment, and coating methods are three main methods for imparting water repellency to textiles. In these processes, generally durable repellency effects are obtained. In addition to the desired repellency effects, other undesirable fabric properties are often found with repellent finishes. These include problems with static electricity, stiffer fabric hand, greying during aqueous laundering and increased flammability. Research is going on to reduce the above-mentioned problems and obtain a durable water repellent fabric.

Quality of Water Repellent Finish The product should impart water repellent finish for the majority of fibre types although there is not

Introduction Water repellency is defined as the ability of a textile material to resist wetting. In principle, water repellent treatments are based on the deposition of hydrophobic substances on the fibre. The difference between waterproof and water repellent finishes is that in

March 2020

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available any universal agent for all fibres.

The finished fabric should be durable to washing and resistant to dry cleaning Easy handling and storing Low foaming High resistance to yellowing tendency making it suitable for both white and colored goods.

It should not affect adversely the light fastness of shade The fabric finish should not become very stiff and harsh.

Mechanism Repellent finishes achieve their properties by reducing the free energy at fibre surfaces. If the adhesive interactions between a fibre and a drop of liquid placed on the fibre are greater than the internal cohesive interactions within the liquid, the drop will spread. If the adhesive interactions between the fibre and the liquid are less than the internal cohesive interactions within the liquid, the drop will not spread.

Surfaces that exhibit low interactions with liquids are referred to as low energy surfaces. Their critical surface energy or surface tension ÎłC must be lower than the surface tension of the liquid ÎłL (the internal cohesive interaction) that is repelled.

For fabrics to be water repellent, the Surface free energy of the fibre’s surface must be lowered to about 24 to 30 mN/m. Pure water has a surface tension of 72 mN/m so these values are sufficient for water repellency.

Oil repellency requires that the fibre surface be lowered to 13 mN/m. Only fluorochemicals are able to function as oil repellents so whatever is mixed with them must not interfere with

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COVER STORY how they are deposited. Therefore, oil repellency finishes with fluorocarbons (yC = 10-20 mNm-1) always achieve water repellency but fluorinefree products, for example, silicones (yC=24-30mNm-1) will not repel oil.

compounds found in non-stick cookware and paints and coatings.

The outdoor market utilizes a range of such solutions that resist water to penetrate the fabric but maintain the breathability to an acceptable level.

Fluorochemical repellents are unique in that they confer both oil and water repellency to fabrics. The ability of fluorochemicals to repel oils is related to their low surface energy which depends on the structure of the fluorocarbon segment, the nonfluorinated segment of the molecule, the orientation of the fluorocarbon tail and the distribution and amount of fluorocarbon moiety on fibres. Low surface energy can be described in critical surface tension terms.

Fluorocarbon Repellent

Solid

Surface Free energy mN/m

Polyamide (Nylon 6.6 )

46

Cotton

44

Polyester

43

PVC

39

Polyethylene

31

Polysiloxane, typical silicone oil

23-24

PTFE

18

Fluorochemical repellents are unique in that they confer both oil and water repellency to fabrics. The ability of fluorochemicals to repel oils is related to their low surface energy which depends on the structure of the fluorocarbon segment, the nonfluorinated segment of the molecule, the orientation of the fluorocarbon tail and the distribution and amount of fluorocarbon moiety on fibres. Low surface energy can be described in critical surface tension terms.

Approaches to impart Repellency to Fabrics

Water

.€Spray-on and wash-in products: There are a number of temporary solutions for creating waterproof (or ‘spill-proof’ to be precise) solutions for garments and fabrics by sprays or additives in-home laundries. These solutions, although effective for a one-off use, are not for the long term and tend to diminish in effect in a few washing cycles. .€Fabric finishes: Finishes are the most common and widely used approach for imparting durable water repellency on fabrics and garments. These finishes (commonly called DWR finishes) are performed after the fabric is constructed. The oldest water repellent finishes for fabrics started with coatings of paraffin or wax but they used to wash out eventually. Recent finishes mainly involved fluorocarbon-based chemistries. Perfluorocarbons (PFC’s) are capable of repelling water, oil, and other liquids that cause stains.

However, their toxic effects and bioaccumulation have been a major ecological concern. .€Yarn based solutions: Yarn based solutions have not deviated much from fabric finishes, in terms of chemistry, but they are focused more on treating the yarn instead of the fabric. This approach not only provides better protection from stains but also helps in maintaining the breathability of the fabric similar to without the treatment. .€Water proof membranes: Waterproof membranes are typically made of PTFE (poly tetra-fluoro ethylene) and related compounds.

These are the same fluorinated

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based

Water

Fluorinated water repellents are widely used on textile products due to their outstanding ability to protect against water, oil, and soil. Fabrics treated with fluorinated water repellents are suitable for outdoor clothing to help provide excellent durability.

Fluorocarbons (FC) provide fibre surfaces with the lowest surface energies of all the repellent finishes in use. Both oil and water repellency can be achieved. FC repellents are synthesized by incorporating perfluoro alkyl groups into acrylic or urethane monomers that can then be polymerized to form fabric finishes.

Originally, the perfluoro alkyl groups were produced by electrochemical fluorination, but today they are produced by telomerization. The telomerization process produces primarily or exclusively linear PFASs, whereas the electrochemical fluorination process produces a mixture of branched and linear isomers.

The final polymer, when applied to a fiber, should form a structure that presents a dense CF3 outer surface for maximum repellency.

General advantages of fluorocarbonrepellent finishes include low active addons (< 1 % owf) and more rapid drying of treated fabrics. Special FCs allow improved soil release during household laundering or stain resistance on nylon, which is especially useful for carpets.

They also have excellent chemical and thermal stability which provides treated fabrics with good durability (e.g., during laundering and dry-cleaning. Most repellents based on this chemistry are applied by the padding process and then dried and cured.

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March 2020

COVER STORY The presence of fluorine, the most electronegative atom, allows PFC-based DWRs and other fluorosurfactants to reduce the surface tension of the fabric to lower than that of water and oil. The unique ability to repel oils as well as water has been a major contributor to the popularity of PFC-based finishes.

C8 Chemistry – The backbone of these compounds is made of a chain of 8 carbon atoms. Two methods are used to produce two slightly different products, namely “electro-fluorination” (electrolysis to replace hydrogen atoms in a molecule by fluorine atoms to create the 8 unit chain containing just carbon and fluorine) and “telomerization” (joining single units together on to the growing polymer chain). The molecules, PFOA (perfluoro octanoic acid) and PFOS (perfluoro octanoic sulphate), so produced, have been found accumulated in various animals and have adverse effects, including carcinogenicity and toxicity. As a result of their strong carbon-fluorine bonds, PFOA and PFOS do not break down in the environment. They have been shown to be persistent in the environment and have long elimination half-life in wildlife and in humans.

C6 based fluorocarbons showed governmental organizations all decreased water repellency than around the world have strongly C8 based fluorocarbons ones. C6 commended manufacturers to stop Chemistry – PFHA (perfluorohexano- using C8, meaning that in the long ic acid) with a backbone of 6 carbon run, the chemistry world must look atoms, is supposed to be 40 times for alternatives anyway. less bio-accumulative than PFOA Types of C6 based water repellent (the 8-carbon counterpart). But it compounds is also less effective, so more of the chemical has to be used to achieve Smaller chemistries: Attempts to use the same result. Additionally, the smaller perfluorocarbon segments recipe also involved small traces Product WR OR Softness of C8 molecules. At present C6 technology is most prevalent in Current C8 Commercial Product Excellent Excellent Good the textile industry although a C6 Hybrid Excellent Excellent Good growing number of sustainabiliC6 Non Hybrid Excellent Excellent Poor ty-conscious brands are phasing out the use of such chemicals in C6 Non Hybrid Silicone Blend Excellent Poor Fair their products.

C6 Copolymer with silicone

Excellent

Poor

Fair

Human Toxicity Environmental Toxicity Mutagenicity Organ Respiratory Reproductive Persistence Aquatic Fate PFOA 8- Carbon perfluorinated alkyl chain

Kidney, breast and testicular cancer

High cholesterol, Liver, Kidney, Heart, Blood toxicant

Airway inflammation not significant

Reproductive and developmental toxicity

Persistent organic pollutant

Fish and invertebrate toxicity

Not biodegradable, persistent in sediment water

PFHxA 6-Carbon perfluorinated alkyl chain

Negative mutagen

Enteropatic recirculation , Blood serum,

Not found

Not found

Less persistent, not bioaccumulative

Fish and invertebrate toxicity

Not biodegradable persistent in sediment

Hazard scale

Low

Summary of hazards associated with C8 against C6 based water repellent

Mode of action C6 vs C8 This alternative doesn’t have the

Medium

High

(e.g. C4) have been made by many manufacturers.

The smaller the fluorocarbon, the more rapidly it breaks down in the environment (a positive trait) but, unfortunately, the desired textile performance goes down as the size of the perfluorocarbon goes down.

Greener Approaches C0

The good news is there’s a way to limit the negative side effects of fluorocarbons to a minimum. The solution lies in reducing the fluorocarbon chain from C8 to C6.

C6 Chemistry – C6 based fluorocarbons were introduced to minimize the release of toxic chemicals.

March 2020

exact same properties as the original fluorocarbons, but the side products are way less persistent and bio-accumulative, meaner they’re less harmful. Many chemical companies, including ourselves, have stopped working with C8 altogether and started working with C6 fluorocarbons exclusively. Moreover,

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The adverse effects of DWR chemistries involving fluoropolymers are well known in the textile industry and steps are being taken towards more sustainable and greener approaches.

Types of C0 based Water Repellent Over the last century, many chemical finishes have been introduced which can impart water repellency to textile fabrics. Product formula-

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COVER STORY tions have included metal-salt finishes, soap/metal salt-finishes, wax finishes, pyridinium-based finishes, organometallic complexes, fat-modified melamine resins, silicones, and fluorocarbons finishes.

Over the last 20 years, the focus in chemical finishing has shifted towards multifunctional finishes which not only confer durable water repellency but also oil-, soil- and stain-repellency. These achieved the high standards of performance demanded in many branches of the textile and apparel industries, for example, outdoor performance clothing, military textiles, and many types of technical textiles.

include increased durability to laundering and a full hand imparted to treated fabrics. Disadvantages of stearic acid–melamine repellents include problems similar to durable press finishes (a tendency to exhibit finish mark-off, decreased fabric tear strength and abrasion resistance, changes in the shade of dyed fabric, and release of formaldehyde).

Silicone Water Repellents Polydimethylsiloxane products are useful as water repellents and form a hydrophobic layer around fibres.

In order to gain some measure of durability, silicones designed as water-repellent treatments usually

Parrafin Repellents These were one of the earliest water repellents used, but they do not repel oil. Typically the products are emulsions that contain aluminum or zirconium salts of fatty acids. The paraffinic portion of the repellent mixture is attracted to the hydrophobic regions, while the polar ends of the fatty acid are attracted to the metal salts at the fibre surface.

These finishes can be applied by both exhaustion and padding. They are compatible with most kinds of finishes but they increase flammability.

Although they are available at relatively low cost and generate uniform waterproof effects, the lack of durability to laundering and dry cleaning and their low air and vapor permeability limits the use of paraffin-based repellents.

Stearic Acid-Melamine Repellents They are compounds formed by reacting stearic acid and formaldehyde with melamine and constitute another class of water-repellent materials. The hydrophobic character of the stearic acid groups provides the water repellency, while the remaining N-methylol groups can react with cellulose or with each other (crosslinking) to generate permanent effects. Advantages of the stearic acid–melamine repellents

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consist of three components, a silanol, a silane and a catalyst such as tin octoate. The outward-oriented methyl groups generate the water repellency. During the drying step after pad application, the silanol and silane components can react to form a three-dimensional crosslinked sheath around the fibre. The Si–H groups of the silane are the reactive links in the silicone chain, generating crosslinks or being oxidized by air or hydrolyzed by water to hydroxyl groups. Advantages of silicone water repellents include a high degree of water repellency at relatively low ( 0.5–1 % owf) on weight of fabric concentrations, very soft fabric hand, improved sewability and shape retention, and improved appearance and feel of pile fabrics.

The disadvantages of silicone repellents include increased pilling and seam slippage, reduced repellency if excessive amounts are applied,

only moderate durability to laundering and dry cleaning, and no oil and soil repellency. The silicone finish may enhance the attraction of hydrophobic dirt. In addition, the wastewater, especially the residual baths, from these finish application processes are toxic to fish.

Fluorine-free Chemistries: Although products with no PFOA and PFOS claim to be fluorine-free DWR products, there are products available or being tried that involve completely different chemistries. Paraffin (and other hydrocarbon-based solutions), silica nanoparticles, Silanes (e.g. alkyl trialkoxy silanes) and are some of the front running examples.

Dedrimer Dedrimer based repellent chemistry is a relatively new field of repellent chemistry. Dedrimers are characterized by regular hyperbranched monomers leading to monodisperse tree-like structures.

Historically dedrimers have been used in the field of genetics, medicines, biology, and chemistry. In textile chemistry finishes containing dedrimers are applied to fabrics to impart water and oil repellency properties.

Nanotechnology Repellent chemistries containing nano-materials are coated on fabrics to achieve desirable properties without a significant increase in weight, thickness, or stiffness. The properties that can be imparted on textiles using nanotechnology include water repellency and soil resistance. The use of chemistries containing nanomaterials to impart

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March 2020

COVER STORY water repellency and stain resistance effects on textiles is one of the most common ways nanotechnology is being used in textile industries.

Plasma Technology Plasma treatment attracts particular interest especially for its main peculiarities: the treatments interest only the uppermost layers of the fabric surface without modifying the bulk properties and it is environ-

mentally friendly since the use of chemicals is negligible. The utilization of low-pressure plasma processes, in particular, has been widely investigated for the modification of surface properties of textile composed by synthetic polymers and natural materials. Plasma processing can also impart a repellent finish on textiles and does not require high levels of thermal energy because there is no water to evaporate and

“ March 2020

AATCC 22 – Water repellency: spray test

these chemicals based on PFOS and PFOAS - known as C8 chemicals - are under pressure from the legislation.

The aim of this legislation is to replace them with C6 or C4 chemicals or even with Czero, however, these products provide lower performance in terms of durability and resistance. Despite intensive research, no alternative to PFC has yet been found for successfully making apparel oil-repellent.

This is why there is a great demand for equivalent high-performance alternatives to C8 products.

Procedure

References :

Treated fabric is stretched taut, held at a 45º angle, and sprayed with 250 ml of water from above. The resulting wetting pattern, if any, is rated using photographic standards. This is a simple, rapid method suitable for the plant floor

https://www.elsevier.com/books/ waterproof-and-water-repellenttextiles-and-clothing/williams/978-008-101212-3

Other Test MethodsConclusion

https://tanatexchemicals.com/blog/ lets-talk-about-the-future-of-thefluorocarbon-free-water-repellent/

the fluoropolymer polymerizes in the plasma, therefore, it does not need to be cured. Until recently, plasmas for industrial processing were only available under reduced pressure.

This limited manufacturing because of the high cost of the vacuum equipment and the limitations of batch processing.

Evaluation of Water Repellent Textiles

Mankind in the twenty-first century has begun to feel a grave need to use resources in a sustainable manner; environment depletion and deterioration have increased manifold due to extreme materialism. Fast production, consumption, and discarding of products are leading to an outbreak of the problem of heaping toxic landfills. People are seen shifting towards eco-friendly products because of the harm that they have continued to do to their environment for the fulfillment of their needs.

In the current market, technical fabrics by well-known brands, including protective textiles, are coated using perfluorocarbons (PFCs), which give them highly durable oil-repellent and water-repellent properties. However, these products are harmful to health and the environment. Consequently,

https://www.millet-mountain.com/ water-repellent.html

https://www.roadmaptozero.com/ fileadmin/layout/media/downloads/ en/DWR_Report.pdf http://www.intertek.com/consumer/ news/c6-c8-fluorinated-waterrepellent-testing/ https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/ tag/c6/ http://www.silkytex.com/ new-development/water-repellentby-c0-nanotex1/ http://www.waterrepellent.net/ what-are-the-differences-betweenc8-c6-and-non-fluorinated-waterrepellent/ https://www.nikwax.com/en-gb/ aboutus/persistentflurocarbondanger.php

“We Generate Fears While We Sit. We Overcome Them By Action.”

– Dr. Henry Link www.textilevaluechain.com

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COVER STORY

THE CHEMISTRY OF OPTICAL BRIGTENING AGENT AND ITS ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT DR. RUMA CHAKRABARTI Business Head India, Centexbel

MR. A. VIGNESH, Director AAE Textile fibres do not appear perfectly white due to the presence of certain coloured impurities. Whitening with optical brigthners or fluorescent brightening agents can eliminate the yellowish hue of the materials. The optical brightening agents counteract the yellowness of the fabric by increasing the reflection of the blue light rays. They convert invisible short wave ultraviolet rays of sunlight into visible blue light and effectively neutralize the pale yellow or cream colour of the white materials; hence a degree of whiteness, which is comparatively more intense, is achieved. The greatest use of brighteners is in detergents, and almost every commercial detergent contains one or more brighteners, in the proportion of 0.05-0.3% The fluorescent substance to act as a whitening agent must essentially emit light in the blue region so that it effectively neutralizes the normal pale yellow or cream colour of the so-called white materials. OBA is based on the addition of light, whereas the bluing method achieves its white effect through the removal of light. The optical brighteners should fulfill the following two requirements: 1. It should be optically colourless on the substrate 2. It should not absorb in the visible part of the spectrum.

The overall effect given by a whitening agent depends on a number of factors: a) The intrinsic effectiveness of the compound as an OBA. b) Its spectral absorption and emission characteristics. c) The ultra-violet content of the

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viewing light.

Factors Influencing the functions of Optical Whiteners:

Optical brighteners are applied to substrate a s a separate after treatment process or are incorporated into the bleaching and finishing baths. Since the fluorescent brightening agents behave like dyestuffs, their efficiency and effectiveness are influenced by various factors that are important in application.

between 40 and 60 C and further rise in temperature tend to lower the exhaustion. pH : The chemical stability, solubility and affinity of optical brightening agents depend on effective pH value in solution.

Application of Optical Brightening Agents: •

Substrate: The brightening effect is dependent on the nature of the substrate. For e.g. A very strong reflectance is observed whitened cotton, but is weaker in viscose and wool. In the absence of sufficient affinity of brighteners, the application results in yellow to green colour yield.

•

Saturation: There is a saturation limit for each optical whitening agent.

Above certain concentration on the fibre a yellow colour is superimposed on the fluorescence resulting in decrease in whiteness.

Method of Application: The saturation limit of an optical brightening agent however is also dependent on the method of application to the substrate. Usually exhaust application process gives higher whiteness value than it does when applied by padding technique for a given amount of whitener.

Time: Generally optical brightening agents have high rate of exhaustion on the substrate and therefore great care is to be taken to avoid unlevel application. Slow exhaustion rate and increased migration time is necessary to produce level whiteness on the fabric.

Temperature: The optimum temperatures of optical brightening agents on cellulosic fibres are usually

•

•

Laundry detergents (to replace whitening agents removed during washing and to make the clothes appear cleaner.) – detergents may contain up to 0.2% whitening agents, Paper, especially high brightness papers, resulting in their strongly fluorescent appearance under UV illumination. Paper brightness is typically measured at 457nm, well within the fluorescent activity range of brighteners. Paper used for banknotes does not contain optical brighteners, so a common method for detecting counterfeit notes is to check for fluorescence.

Cosmetics: The brightener can not only increase the luminance and sparkle of the hair, but can also correct dull, yellowish discoloration without darkening the hair. Some advanced face and eye powders contain optical brightener microspheres that brighten shadowed or dark areas of the skin, such as “tired eyes”.

Fabrics may at times contain 0.5% OBAs. A side effect of the presence of OBA is to make the treated fabrics more visible with Night Vision Devices than non-treated ones (the fluorescence caused by optical brighteners can easily be seen with an ordinary black light).

This may or may not be desirable for military or other applications

Chemistry of Optical Brighteners Optical brightening agents are generally based on compounds of stilbene, coumarins, pyrazolins, naphthalimides, naphthooxazoles

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March 2020

COVER STORY etc.

1.Carbocyclic compounds: Whiteners in this class have a high degree of whiteness and specially suitable for use in detergents, plastics and Polyester substrates.

Stilbenes: These group consists mainly of non-ionic compounds, with general formula as shown in (1) with an extended system of conjugated double bonds. They are chiefly suitable for whitening of polyesters, and also polyamides, cellulose acetates and polyvinyl chloride.

R

R1

2

consists of high light fastness whiteners for polyester.

The non-ionic stibenyl benzoxazoles (Fig. 3) are suitable for application by the HT or Thermosol Process. They are also suitable for synthetic fibres such as polyamides or cellulose acetate.

Anionic stilbenyl benzooxazoles with sulphonic acid groups are whiteners fast to peroxide and chlorine. They are suitable for cotton and polyamides, and for incorporation in detergents ( Fig. 4).

R'

N

(1)

Distyryl – Arenes: The non ionic class of distyryl-arenes are excellent whiteners for whitening polyamides, cellulose acetates and plastics with a general formula (2). The anionic distyryl arenes containing sulphonic acid groups are relatively high hypochlorite stable whiteners, which exhaust on to cotton and polyamides when used in detergents. A further advantage of these compounds is that in effluents the ethylene bridge is degraded in the presence of light and oxygen leading to the formation of low molecular weight sulpho-carboxylic acids. Cationic products serve for whitening cellulose, polyacrylonitrile and polyamides. They are especially useful for application in detergent in the presence of cationic softeners.

R B R1

(2)

Where, R1 =2-CN, 4-CN, 4-SO2CH3, 2-CH3 etc

R2

O

(3)

Styryl heteroarenes: The absorption and also the fluorescence of styryl heteroarenes are hypsochromically shifted with respect to those of analogous stilbenyl heteroarenes.

They are less efficient and provide whiteness of lower intensity due to their lower molar and specific extinctions.

The nonionic styryl heteroarenes with general structure 5 are suitable for fluorescent whitening of synthetic fibres such as polyesters, polyamides and cellulose acetate.

R1

R2

(5)

Ionic Styryl Heteroarenes: only 4-naphtho[1,2-d]triazol-2-yl} -‐ (benzoxazol-2-yl)styryls with one or two sulphonic groups are known as anionic fluorescent whitening agents, and cationic fluorescent agents of this group have the general formula :

R2 = 2-CN, 4-CN, 4-SO2CH3, 2-OCH3 etc.

B=

Heterocyclic Substituted stilbenes, styrenes and ethylenes : The heterocyclic groups intensifies the fluorescence of conjugated systems and shifts the fluorescence maximum to a longer wavelength.

Stilbenyl benzoxazoles: This class

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R2

CH3SO3-

R1 n

(6)

Heteroarenes with one or two ethylene bridges: a.

Heteroaryl ethylenes and butadienes: The known whiteners in this class are mainly nonionic. The

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R1

R2

B

(7)

Triazinylaminostilbenes: 1,3,5,-Triazynyl derivatives of 4,4’diaminostilbene –2-2’-disulphonic acid are the most important class of whiteners in terms of volume.

Triazinylaminostilbenes are used for whitening cotton, resin finished textiles, regenerated cellulose fibres and polyamides. They are also used in detergents to whiten textile and paper.

MO 3S NH

+

,

5-methyl-benzoxazol-2-yl ring plays an important role in whitening agents for polyester. The polyester whitener based on the aforementioned ring has a very good light fastness and also is easy to apply by both HT and thermosol methods, and as it sublimes easily can also be used in transfer printing. b. Non-ionic heteroarenes with two ethylene bridges: These are highyield polyester whiteners, also suited for whitening polyamides, cellulose acetates and plastics such as polyvinyl chloride and polyolefins. Their synthesis is very intricate, and the properties are comparable to that of carbocyclic distyryl-arenes. c. Anionic heteroarenes with two ethylene bridges: These compounds contain sulphonic acid groups and are high yield whiteners for cotton and polyamide, and are suitable for application in detergents, textile and paper.

N N

R1 N R2 2

(8)

Heterocycles : Furans and Benzofurans: Furans and benzofurans are useful building blocks in combination with further cabocyclic and or heterocyclic systems for the synthesis of conjugated fluorescent compounds. The most important classes are the phenylfu-

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COVER STORY ranyl and benzofuranyl-benzimidazoles, which are characterized by their high degree of whiteness, good light fastness and chlorite stability.

by (hetero) aromatic residues or electron-attracting substituents is characterized by its high light stability.

Benzofurans linked to carbocyclic group: Sulphonated derivative of the compound with general structure ().

Sulphonated derivatives of the above are used as whiteners for cotton and polyamides.

Non-ionic Coumarins: These serve in particular for whitening polyester, but also for polyamides, cellulose acetate, polyolefins and polyvinyl chloride.

Benzodifurans of the given structure with cyano or carboxylic ester groups have been suggested as whiteners for polyester, polystyrene and polyvinyl chloride

R2

O

R1

O

(12)

Water soluble Coumarins: Cationic coumarins are used to whiten polyacrylonitrile and cellulose O acetate, and are characterized by possessing good light fastness and O .

(9) chlorite stability. The cationic residue may either be bound to a Heterocyclic substituted furans : non heterocyclic ring or to a basic side Fibre-reactive coumarins ionic products of this are used as chain. whiteners for polyester and polyacry- containing sulphonic acid groups are wash resistant whiteners for cotton lonitrile. and polyamide.

R2 R3

N O R

R

N

1

(10)

Heterocyclic substituted benzofuran: Non-ionic compounds of this group are used as whiteners for polyester, polyamides, cellulose acetates and polyvinyl chloride.

Azoles : Mainly non-ionic whiteners have been obtained from this class of compounds. The benzooxazole ring is easy to synthesize and has a good to outstanding light fastness property on polyester substrate.

O N

R2

(11)

Cationic azoles with the general formula as given below are used to whiten acrylic fibres.

Coumarins: The coumarin ring system substituted in the 3-position

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N

N

CH3

N

Cationic heterocyclic substituted furans are used to whiten polyacrylonitrile and cellulose acetate.

R1

+

N

Anion-

CH3OSO3N

O

O

N H 3C (13)

Naphthalimides: The naphthalamide ring system has high stability with good light fastness and chlorite stability, the only disadvantage being R1

R2

O N

These fibres require disperse dye type fluorescent brighteners due to their hydrophobic nature. The brighteners enter the fibre in a state of molecular dispersion and are held in the fibre by Van-der-Waals forces. The brighteners are usually water insoluble and can be applied in conjunction with a carrier or in HTHP machine.

Polyester brighteners belong to the group of compounds such as stilbenyl benzo oxazoles, stilbenyl hetero arenes, heteroaryl ethylenes and butadienesdistyryl arenes, Benzodifurans substituted with cyano or carboxylic ester groups,.non-ionic azoles, naphthalamides etc.

Brighteners for Polyamide fibres: Fluorescent brightener of the acid dyeing coumarin type, 1,3-Diphenyl2-pyrazolines, and of the stilbenetriazine types are widely used, besides the disperse type of synthetic-fibre brighteners. Water soluble anionic brighteners are applied like acid wool dyes.

Brighteners for Cellulose: For cellulose brighteners with good penetrating properties, and of medium substantivity are required . the brighteners for this category are distyryl arenes, heterocyclic substituted stilbenes, styrenes and ethylenes., benzofurans linked to carboxylic groups.

Ecological Aspect of Brightening Agents:

R2

O

(14)

low molar extinction coefficient.

Non-ionic naphthalimides,: N-alkylated naphthalamides are especially used for polyester substrate, but can also be used for whitening polyamide, cellulose acetate, polyolefins and polyvinylchloride.

Water-soluble naphthalimides: Basic and cationic naphthalimides are chlorite-stable whiteners for polyacrylonitrile with good light fastness. They are also recommended for whitening polyester and wool.

Brighteners for Polyester Fibres:

Optical

One of the chemicals used for formulating a Optical brightening agent is called cyanuric chloride, a derivative of 1,3,5 triazine. Cyanuric chloride is used as a precursor and crosslinking agent in sulfonated triazine-stilbene based optical brighterners. It is also classified as “very toxic”, “harmful” and “corrosive” by the EU and has several risk phrases identified with it – including R26 (“very toxic by inhalation”). R26 is a substance which is specifically prohibited by GOTS. Some of the OBAs are allowed, depending on the chemical composition of the individual optical brightener. Like dyestuffs,

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March 2020

COVER STORY mutations. Further, they can cause allergic reactions when exposed to skin that is later exposed to sunlight.

OBA’s are known to be toxic to fish and other animal and plant life and have been found to cause mutations in bacteria.

Most OBAs are not readily biodegradable, so chemicals remain in wastewater for long periods of time, negatively affecting water quality and animal and plant life. It is assumed that the substances accumulate in sediment or sludge, leading to high concentrations.

GOTS allows optical brighteners if they “meet all criteria for the selection of dyes and auxiliaries as defined in chapter 2.4.6, .” Those criteria include the prohibition of all chemicals listed in 2.3.1 and substances which are assigned certain risk phrases “or combinations thereof”.

risks to the public. It was found that there is a general lack of information on toxicity and a need for studies into dermal absorption and the release of these substances from clothes. While it has not been shown to negatively affect health, it has also not been proven safe.

Some brighteners have been proven to cause allergic skin reactions or eye irritation in sensitive people.

The German Textiles Working Group conducted a health assessment of various optical brightening agents following concerns of potential health

These synthetic chemicals convert UV light wavelengths into visible light, which makes laundered clothes appear whiter (although does not actually affect the cleanliness of the clothing). They’ve been found to be toxic to fish and to cause bacterial

March 2020

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REACH is the new European Union regulation which aims to improve human health and the environment through better and earlier identification of the properties of chemical substances.

REACH stands for Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemical substances.

REACH contains provisions to reduce the use of what are called “high volume production” chemicals. These are defined as chemicals having annual production and/or importation volumes above 1 million pounds. It is assumed that high volume production is a proxy for high exposure; in addition, large releases of low toxicity substances such as salts do cause environmental harm due to the sheer volume of the substance.

Much of the impact from optical brighteners comes in the form of large releases of low toxicity substances. A number of these optical brighteners are listed as high and low production volume substances and so will be subject to REACH. In conclusion ObaA is an auxiliary which enhances the aesthetic appeal of white fabrics but they should be used keeping in mind their chemical constitution and hence its ecological and environmental impact.

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TECHNOLOGY CORNER

COPOWER TECHNOLOGY CO., LTD TAIWAN iCAMS â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Automatic Stock Solution Maker Textile industry is slowly evolving towards more and more automation products with minimum human intervention and with increase in throughput of lab and without compromising on accuracy, precision, repeatability and reliability of lab dyeing.

Accurate and precise Stock Solution preparation in laboratory is the most difficult task. The shade matching and recipe development in laboratory is totally dependent on the prepared stock solution iCAMS is the latest development from Copower Technology Co., Ltd of Taiwan in Automatic Stock Solution Preparation. With continuous in house Research & Development and understanding the requirements

from the industry iCAMS is developed keeping in mind the speed, accuracy & repeatability of stock solution preparation with minimum manual errors. y No more wrong seslection of Dyestuff y No more wrong weighing of dyestuffs - Always repeatable accurate weighment and hence precise lab dyeing outputs y LED & RFID protects from selection of incorrect dyestuff. y Built-in rapid dilution module. y Option of 96 or 128 dyestuffs bottles rack available. - Option of different apacity of 175 cc and 450cc dyestuff bottles in rack available. y Easy / Fast / Accurate / Repeatable Dyestuff Stock Solution Preparation. y Ideal for Textile Dyeing and Printing Mills & Dyestuffs Manufcturing Industry.

THE I1PRO 3 PLUS AND I1IO: A GREAT COMBINATION ties, the i1Pro 3 Plus provides the ability to quickly and efficiently create color profiles on a wide variety of substrates.

Resulting in the highest level of color accuracy in the industry.

Unique Substrate? We Have You Covered.

What you need to know about the i1Pro 3 Plus.

Target markets Designed for imaging, print, and textile professionals who need consistency with calibration and profiling capabili-

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For Imaging: Designed for imaging, print, and textile professionals who need consistency with calibration and profiling capabilities, the i1Pro 3 Plus provides the ability to quickly and efficiently create color profiles on a wide variety of substrates. Resulting in the highest level of color accuracy

in the industry.

For Print: The i1Pro 3 Plus reduces color variability with optional polarization to achieve correct calibration and create ICC profiles.

For Textiles: The i1Pro3 eliminates chromatic highlights for accurate profiles that translate to fast production with less wasted time and materials.

Marketing know:

messages

you

should

Materially Diverse. h Enables profiling of a broad range of material substrates and surfaces with a new larger aperture of 8mm: y Industrial materials: corrugated, glass, metal, wood, and vinyl y Packaging and Printing: thin films, labels, cardboard, and plastics

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TECHNOLOGY CORNER y Textiles: organic, synthetic, weaves, and sublimation sheets -Ceramics: ceramic tiles and laminates y Monitors and Displays: up to 5000nits of brightness h Reduces color variability with optional polarization capabilities which help correct for unique material qualities -Polarization reduces specular highlights, providing “better blacks” and richer colors on unique surfaces making measurements for profiles more accurate h Supports emission scanning for backlit film and materials used in signage

Automation Simplified.

and

Calibration:

h Achieves correct calibration and creates ICC profiles with the addition of new targets and standards, resulting in a reduction of waste and an increased ROI y Optimizes automated file creation allowing for a reduction of wasted time and materials during production y Delivers accurate measurements of larger print materials, substrates, and surfaces

y Simultaneously measures M0, M1, and M2 in a single pass to account for optical brightners y Offers a new LED illuminant, improving device reliability and provides four measurement conditions What you need to know about the i1iO.

Target markets Designed for photographers, designers, and printers who want to speed up and automate the

measurement process and eliminate manual strip reading. The new i1iO includes all the same features and benefits as the original i1iO but it now supports the i1Pro 3 Plus, can be used with a variety of industrial materials including textiles, ceramics, corrugated, and supports materials up to 33mm thick, with the optional z-axis spacer.

Positioning i1Pro 3 Plus and i1iO in the marketplace:

INNOVATIVE CARPET FINISHING TECHNOLOGY TO INDIA

Expanding its portfolio of carpet machinery, A.T.E. has now partnered with Sellers Textile Engineers, England, for the marketing and sales of carpet back coating and shearing machines in India.

With more than 100 years of experience, Sellers Textiles Engineers

March 2020

isa world leader in the design and manufacture of finishing machinery for the carpet industry. Sellersexpertise includeslines for tufted and woven carpets, carpet tile and artificial grass.

Virtually every major carpet manufacturer throughout the globe utilises Seller’s machines in one form or another – so Sellers have hundreds of leading references around the world.

Sellersis committed to maintain and strengthen their reputation for manufacturing excellence in the carpet finishing marketutilisingtheir core skillsandtheir unique design and manufacturing prowess.

ing with over 80 years of experience in providing end-to-end solutions.

A.T.E. is uniquely positioned to support and supply all the equipment needed for carpet manufacturing right from BCF yarn production lines from Truetzschler, carpet yarn heat setting lines from Power Heat Set, digital printing from Zimmer, carpet confection lines from Matthys Group, and robotic tufting from EFAB. With this partnership, A.T.E. brings yet another innovative technology to the Indian carpet manufacturing industry, which will helpcarpet manufacturers gain a competitive edge.

A.T.E. is a leader in textile engineer-

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TECHNOLOGY UPDATE

A.T.E. TIES UP WITH SELLERS TEXTILE ENGINEERS LIMITED TO BRING

SUSTAINABILITY

CLOTHING FROM ARECA NUT ( BETEL NUT ) FIBRES DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

Eco-friendly or natural fiber clothing is one of the hottest trends in the world of fashion. Areca is a plant.

The nut is used to make medicine.

Areca fiber (Areca nut hush fiber) is characterized as extremely strong and light weight.

The fibers are predominantly composed of cellulose and varying proportions of hemi cellulose, lignin, pectin and protopectin. Recently the recycling of polyester has become very popular and even tougher cycling polyester is not a new technology subject being able to successfully recycle bottles into fiber and get attention from consumers to support the idea by buying it in large scale quantities is unheard of until now.Rayonfibers and fabrics made from them have many desirable properties. Rayon is often used in fashion and home furnishings, but the fiber is also found in sanitary products, diapers, and medical supplies.

Betel nut is one of the important fruits cultivated in tropical parts of the world. It generates a huge quantity of husk, which is a source of areca fiber.

Arecanut (Areca catechu Linn) plays significant role in the livelihood of the people. It provides income and livelihood security to many people in Meghalaya. In West Garo Hills district most of the villages do arecanut cultivation either for own consumption or for generating income. From selling seedlings to harvested nut, raw as well as fermented nut (Moja) they earn their living. Arecanut also

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known as Gue in Garo is being mainly used for chewing the tender or ripe mature nut along with betel leaf and lime by the Garo community Offering visitors arecanut with betal leaf is a common social practice among them. Areca cultivation is one of the traditional indigenous agricultural activities in the region. The plant is considered to be as old as the history of the tribes or communities in the region. Arecanut, a palm species grows in a heavy rainfall areas or where frequent irrigation is available. Meghalaya is among the wettest places on earth and is the home of an extra ordinary diversity of people that includes the Khasis, Jaintia and Garo tribes.

Areca nuts can also be sourced in the areas around Coimbatore, Tamilnadu, India. Well ripen fruit can be chosen . The nuts inside are used in the factories for the production of supari, medicine, colouring and many other. The epidermis of the fruit is thrown out as an agro waste or been used as a material for burning. This outer husk is a rich source of cellulose which is been used as a raw material for various textile purposes.

PRODUCTION OF ARECA NUT FIBRES Different methods were adopted to extract the Areca fiber from its shell but only one method (hand stripping method) provides satisfactory results keeping the strength, lustre and the other desirable properties as good as possible.

Fiber extracted from Areca Catechu L.

fruit shell was soaked in 5% of cationic softener solution for approximately half an hour. The softener washed sample was also washed by water several times. At last the treated fiber was dried in shade for 24hrs .

The rich husk covering the nut is been processed by natural water retting process. In this process of water retting, depending on the temperature, environmental conditions (the presence or absence of oxygen), and sometimes nutrients, different bacteriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take part, namely clostridium sp., Clostridium butiricum, Granulobacterpectinovorum, Clostridium felsineum, Clostridium guerfelli and Bacillus amylobacter.

In the case of water retting under anaerobic conditions, pectin materials and hemi-cellulose which bond fibres, decompose and from volatile fatty acids, mainly butyric(80%), responsible for the odour of retting liquor and artificially dried fibres. When sun-drying is performed, the volatile fatty acids undergo decarboxylation and decompose, thus after such drying, water-retted straw, as well as fibre dried in the air, does not have any odour . Thus the fibre is exposed to retting process and the fiber is extracted by hand pick methods. The extracted fibre is rinsed with excess of water to make sure the fibre is out of impurities. The rinsed fibre is sun dried for a day to remove excess water content in the fibre Chemical Composition The various chemical content are analysed and listed below which shows the fiber has maximum of cellulose content in

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SUSTAINABILITY it.

1 Cellulose- 70.09 % 2 Lignin -14.23 % 3 Wax - 0.39 % 4 Ash- 2.72 %

PROPERTIES OF ARECA NUT HUSK FIBRES ( ANH ) Both fine and coarse fibers are available in the husk. Different properties of fine areca fiber have been analyzed for qualifying its ability to convert into spun yarn. Fine areca fiber has good physical properties in terms of length, water absorption, maturity which makes it suitable for spinning. However, in case of strength and fineness it showed ordinary value compared to cotton fiber. Areca/ cotton 50:50 blend 48 tex ring and rotor yarn has been produced and yarns showed tenacity 7.1cN/tex and 6.88 cN/tex accompanied by 6.81% and 6.35% elongation, respectively.

The water absorption of areca/cotton blend yarn showed 4.8 times higher value than 100% cotton yarn.

The strength of the fibre is average with good elongation property. The density of the fibre is matching with a manmade fibre and the moisture property is near to bast fibres. SEM images show the bone like structure of the fibre. Areca nut husk the agro waste fibre has remarkable features to be used as an textile material.

Fibre density is calculated to be 1.3470g/cc which proves it is equal to cellulose acetate fibre. The length ranges from 3.9 cms to 4.8 cms. The width of the fibre is 24.25µm . The tensile property ranges from 608g to 1130g, with a mean value of 843g and

“ March 2020

the SD value is 144 with the CV% of 17.08. The elongation of the samples are calculates as 1.6%.

The husk of the Areca is a hard fibrous portion covering the endosperm.

It constitutes 30–45% of the total volume of the fruit. Areca husk fibres are predominantly composed of hemicelluloses and not of cellulose.

Areca fibres contain 13 to 24.6% of lignin, 35 to 64.8% of hemicelluloses, 4.4% of ash content and remaining 8 to 25% of water content. The fibres adjoining the inner layer are irregularly lignified group of cells called hard fibres and the portions of the middle layer contain soft fibres. Areca fibre is highly hemi cellulosic and is much greater than that of any other fibre.

The arecanut husk fibers are predominantly composed of cellulose and varying proportions of hemicellulose, lignin, pectin and protopectin. Microbes that selectively remove lignin without loss of appreciable amounts of cellulose and fiber strength properties are extremely attractive for the biosoftening of arecanutfiber.

The separated soft fibers were converted into fabric using needle punched technology. It has undergone 2 processes. Lap formation and Production of Needle punched Non-woven fabrics. The appropriate technology of manufacturing Areca needle-punched non-wovens not only produces the diversified products from Areca but also creates the value addition. Areca needle punched non-woven fabric development for Technical Textiles was produced using the following

fiber combinations.

•

Areca blended with Recycled Polyester (50:50; 60:40; 70:30 wt %) • Areca blended with Viscose Rayon (50:50; 60:40; 70:30 wt %)

USES OF ARECA NUT HUSK FIBRES The areca nut husk a by-product after the nut is extracted is typically burnt as firewood or disposed of as farm waste. It is seen that the husk of the areca nut is rich in fibre and this farm waste held the potential to be a source of fibre for production of yarn.

The project involved working on the areca nut husk for extraction of fibre and processing the same for making it suitable to draw into yarn and fabric. It was seen that making yarn with 100 per cent areca nut fibre was not suitable for making fabric and the team came up with a blend of 30 per cent areca nut and 70 per cent cotton to make yarn that yields good quality natural fibre fabric as an alternative cost.

Fabric developed is heavy making it suitable for shirts and home furnishings. The blend is such that the warp is cotton and the weft is areca nut husk. This fabric also has good bleaching and dyeing properties making it suitable input material for designers in the fashion world.

The two types of short natural fibers, namely jute and betel nut fibers, are employed as fillers for the formation of short fiber reinforced polypropylene composites in difference ratios (fiber content: 3, 5, 10 and 20 wt%) by hot-press moulding technique.

Areca nut husk fibre is an agricu

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SUSTAINABILITY

CIRCULAR ECONOMY TOOLKIT- A GUIDE TO CIRCULAR FASHION This toolkit is a carefully curated set of resources that enables you and guide you to look at circular economy with a fashion lens. Circular economy has its own language and to understand that you need to be educated.

Who coined the term circular economy?

The webinar was held on 7th April

by Mr. Pranav Khanna (Business & Creative Head, Frajorden.com).

He spoke on the topic of Circular Economy. Basically, circular economy refers to using the available resources to full extent and aims at eliminating waste. Today sustainability is being given a prime importance as consumers and manufactures have realised its importance and demand.

The model which was being followed through ages was to produce product that did not have long term utility and thus was not sustainable causing harm to the environment. As being aware seller as well as buyer, producing product having the cause of “reduce,reuse,recycle” is given utmost importance. Thus, the concept of circular economy claims to be saviour in this scenario. Mr. Khanna gave an example that when a company produce a product, its leftovers are assumed to be having no use and being discarded. But company like doodlage use these materials and create something new coming up with the idea of “Turning the leftover fabric into stunning fashion” The circular economy toolkit includes the following concrete toolkit y Educational Resources

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The concept ‘circular fashion’ was first coined and used in spring 2014 by two actors, almost simultaneously and independently of each other.

One of these was Anna Brismar, owner of the consultancy firm Green Strategy. Another actor that was also first to use the term circular fashion was H&M, specifically its sustainability staff at the H&M’s headquarters in Stockholm. H&M used the term internally for the first time in spring 2014.

Source (https://www.greenstrategy.se/circularfashion-definition/)

What is circular fashion’circular economy?

Key Takeaways y Use mono materials where possible and ensure that products made from multiple materials can be easily disassembled to aid product recyclability. y Assess what substances and materials of concern are used in production that cause pollution and/ or prevent recycling then work with suppliers to remove them. y Consider how other waste in the supply chain from garment off cuts to packaging can be captured then reused or recycled through internal processes or working with partner organisations. y Keep garments in use and reuse as long as possible through developing or participating in collection schemes and supporting the development of technologies to recy-

cle used textiles back to ‘good as new’ raw materials.

Source (https://www.commonobjective.co/ article/what-is-circular-fashion)

Why we need circular economy/ circular fashion?

Fortunately, businesses are increasingly recognizing the value of going circular – a global growth opportunity valued by Accenture at $4.5 trillion over the next decade. CEOs are receiving detailed shareholder questions regarding their circular strategies, specialized private investment funds are being launched dedicated to circular companies, and public-private partnerships are being established to catalyse circular government and private-sector strategies.

We urgently need to translate this awareness into action. The latest Circularity Gap report from Circle Economy reveals that, faced with the twin headwinds of increased CO2 emissions and increased resource extraction, the global economy is only 8.6% circular. Just two years ago it was 9.1%. The global circularity gap is therefore widening. This is a major concern because of the pressure that natural resource extraction could exert on biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse, large-scale involuntary migration and failure of climatechange mitigation and adaptation, as detailed in the latest World Economic Forum Global Risks Report.

With less than 10 years to prevent global warming from exceeding 1.5˚C and only 10 years to achieve the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), it is critical to bring together leaders across industry, government and civil society to shift the global economy more aggressively toward circularity. The Platform for Accelerat-

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March 2020

SUSTAINABILITY ing the Circular Economy (PACE) has grown quickly and has emerged as an important action hub and engine for change. With more than 70 leaders and 20 communities from across the public and private sectors, PACE has become the place to ensure that good words turn into positive actions at scale.

The Need – Less than 1% of material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing. As a result, one truckful of clothes is disposed of in landfill every second, representing an annual material loss of USD 100 billion, as well as significant negative environmental impacts associated with virgin material production.

you go to a hotel – you know the bed has been slept in before. Using stuff that others have used is not new!” Sure enough, with paying for performance, as opposed to ownership, taking off in a number of industries, there does seem to be a new type of citizen that’s open to this type of business model.

Source ( https://www.weforum.org/ agenda/2020/01/the-world-needs-a-circulareconomy-lets-make-it-happen/)

The Solution – Teemill have developed a circular production process that turns old t-shirts into new ones and regenerates natural systems.

Their approach starts by viewing the fashion supply chain as a connected system, then applies circular design principles and new technology across the product life cycle.

Getting access to funding can be make or break for a new startup, and those behind Better World Fashion have come up against an unlikely roadblock. In Reimer’s view, too many funding programmes today show a preference towards new developments in technology such as the Internet of Things. Because his company focuses on business model innovation, there’s a misplaced perception that it doesn’t display enough of an innovation leap. This is a shame, as the model actually shows an understanding of materials, manufacturing and business strategy that is at the cutting edge of our understanding of the world in 2016: one of volatile prices, supply risks, environmental constraints, and beginning to chart a course for a circular economy.

Case studies From there you want to see how others are doing this to leverage their business.

Traceability Transparency and the promise of circularity Organic cotton is a key fibre in the sustainability strategies of fashion brands worldwide. It promotes healthy soils, healthy ecosystems, healthy people, and thriving farming communities. It relies on ecological processes and cycles adapted to local conditions, rather than the use of inputs with adverse environmental effects, such as synthetic pesticides, chemical fertilizers, or genetically modified (GM) seeds. Consequently, organic cotton sets itself apart as the sustainable staple for the fashion and textiles sector and as an alternative to conventional cotton production, which involves some of the highest use of pesticides and incurs a heavy water footprint. Organic cotton offers a lower ecological impact and by reducing exposure to insecticides, pesticides and other chemicals, improves biodiversity and benefits the health and safety of farmers and their communities. The protection and growth of organic cotton farming is therefore a critical step in turning around the negative externalities of conventional cotton.

Source(https://fashionforgood.com/ wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Fashion-forGood-Organic-Cotton-Traceability-Pilot-Report. pdf)

Closed loop Overview

March 2020

What makes it particularly smart – By opening up access to its circular supply chain platform, Teemill has allowed tens of thousands of brands to produce t-shirts in real time after they’re ordered, all designed to be sent back and remade when they’re worn out.

Benefits: The Teemill supply chain increases material utilisation, reduces chemical and water inputs and emissions, and shares the benefits with customers and other businesses. It removes barriers to entry in the fashion industry and means anyone with an internet connection can participate and co-create the future of fashion. New brands get the same systems as a mature brand for free, without surplus production.

Source (https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/case-studies/an-open-access-circularsupply-chain-for-fashion)

Business model circular fashion

supporting

For business models that favour ‘access over ownership’, something that is often called into question is whether customers will be prepared to wear someone else’s clothes, sleep in someone else’s bed, or lend a stranger their car. What about the stories that users don’t add to the history of their jacket? The comparison Reimer uses is one we’re all familiar with, reminding that “when

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Source (https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/case-studies/a-model-for-fast-fashionthat-lasts)

How to economy

Measure

circular

You need to set a base line which will enable you to measure your progress as you bring circularity into your business.

Calcilyticscircularity

how

to

measure

Circulytics supports a company’s transition towards the circular economy, regardless of industry, complexity, and size. Going beyond assessing products and material flows, this company-level measuring tool reveals the extent to which a company has achieved circularity across its entire operations. It does this by using the widest set of indicators currently available: enablers and outcomes. Circulytics:

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SUSTAINABILITY y Measures a company’s entire circularity, not just products and material flows y Supports decision making and strategic development for circular economy adoption y Demonstrates strengths and highlights the areas for improvement y Provides optional transparency to investors and customers about a company’s circular economy adoption y Delivers unprecedented clarity about circular economy performance, opening up new opportunities to generate brand value with key stakeholders Source (https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/resources/apply/ circulytics-measuring-circularity)

Cradle to institute

cradle

innovation

Global reporting initiative UL environment World business council sustainable development

for

Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute — Set to launch later this year, the fourth version of the Cradle to Cradle Certified Product Standard will feature an updated Product Circularity category, focused on sourcing, design and systems.

Global Reporting Initiative (PDF) — Launching its updated standard in Q1 of this year, GRI will be the first global standard that includes principles of circularity into waste disclosures, shifting the framing from an unwanted burden to a holistically managed material.

UL Environment — Companies can pursue certification of UL 3600, which measures and reports on the circularity of products, facilities and organizations.

U.S. Green Building Council — In late 2019, USGBC launched a circular economy pilot credit in its LEED rating system, which includes considera-

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tions of supply chain circularity, zero waste manufacturing, circular design and closed-loop systems.

around the circular economy to see where this industry is moving towards to leverage those areas.

World Business Council for Sustainable Development — Set to launch next week at the World Economic Forum, Circular Transition Indicators provides a framework to assess a company’s circularity, and quantify the value of shifting towards more circular approaches.

Industry leaders

Each tool grounds a circular economy’s promise in data, breaking intentions and aspirations into the calculable, trackable and comparable bite-sized pieces that make up this new economic model.

At all levels — systems, business and product — the development of specific and actionable metrics is a key accelerator for circularity at scale. Of course, the operative word is actionable. Quantifying circularity proves valuable only to the extent that they align with planetary boundaries and science-based climate targets.

Source https://www.greenbiz.com/article/ trying-measure-circularity-here-are-sometools-consider

Circular business model canvas Once your base is set, where you are in this paradigm then you will need to translate your business into circularity model for which circular business model canvas will help to do that translation. Also, to share it within your team so that all speak same language and work together.

To be updated with latest innovation proceeded by Industry leaders, you get the opportunity to collaborate with them. h Educational videos https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/ h Books https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications https://www.circulareconomyclub. com/listings/books/ h Online courses Coursera , edx One of the advantage of this toolkit is that its self paced, you can share it with team members you could even built it as a template as you build circularity through your business.

Circular economy toolkit next steps Start with your customers- Existing and potential Study your supply chain for existing capabilities Conduct an internal workshop on Circular fashion Do a PEST analysis to understand the micro drivers for Circular Economy

Events

Measure Circularity in your business

Before implementing it into your business you want to know what’s happening around you. To talk with peers and understand what is really happening across the industry.

Identify focus areas which are aligned to the network

https://www.gartexindia.com/

Create your Circular Business models to capture information, material, and process flows Implement tools and processes to drive Circularity in your business

India Specific Organization List of Certain India specific organization is provided because as these organization work with the government to implement standards

Audit Communicate

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March 2020

SUSTAINABILITY

TEXTILE WASTE MANAGEMENT and other chemicals in abundance to achieve the typical faded appearance.

Soumya Annapurna Kalluri- Founder of dwij upcycled in India

Textile waste, is mindful consumption the only way ahead?

The increasing ill effects of ‘fast fashion’ The last few years have seen significant development in the fashion industry, where free trade agreements between various countries has made it easy for brands to manufacture their products in countries where labor is cheap, and transport it all across the world. This has led to the phenomenon of ‘fast fashion’, which has significantly contributed to rising consumerism.

Consumerism driven by falling prices and disposable clothing are creating more waste with every passing year.

Large quantities of oil and water, two natural and non-renewable resources that are becoming scarce are used to produce synthetic fibres. Toxic chemicals are used to dye clothes to their desired colour, which is also a water intensive operation. In 2015 alone, 98 million tonnes of oil was consumed to produce synthetic fibres. If we consider jeans, it takes as much as 10,000 liters of water to grow enough cotton for a pair of jeans

March 2020

After so many harmful procedures, the average number of times a garment is worn before it ceases to be used has decreased by 36% compared to 15 years ago, while the production has doubled during this period. As per NYtimes, H&M- the Swedish retail giant, currently has a buildup of staggering USD 4.3 Bn of unsold inventory across the world, which is comparable to the total raw material and finished textiles of USD 5.3 Bn imported by India during FY18. Worse, around 80 to 100 billion garments that are not used even once are sent to landfills globally every year.

These trends are the typical indicators of the increasing phenomenon of ‘fast fashion’. While there are people who repurpose their clothes, the number is still negligible. The awareness of, the adverse effects of the textile industry and the concept of upcycling is however still at a nascent stage.

While the awareness of plastic waste has gained momentum, the adverse effects of textile waste largely goes unnoticed.

What is upcycling?

When we hear the term “best out of waste”, one example that comes to our mind is a patched blanket or a carry bag made out of old saree which our grandmothers fondly made by conserving resources. ‘Upcycling’

Textile waste, is mindful consumption the only way ahead? is a term that refers to the same principle of conservation where a discarded material is turned into a higher quality/higher value product, while at the same time increasing the longevity of the material. dwij is trying to address the problem

www.textilevaluechain.com

of textile waste “Dwij”, meaning second life(fOn= Twice, = Born) in Sanskrit works with a mission to promote circular products made from upcycled post-consumer garments and post-industrial garment waste that would otherwise end up in landfill. One of the major objectives of dwij is to increase the awareness of ill effects of textile waste, and the need for upcycling.

The focus on hygiene remains a top priority to ensure that the customer views an upcycled product at par with a virgin product.

t

Dwij currently makes a product range that includes utility bags, shopping bags, handbags, and other accessory products targeted for an environmentally conscious consumer. Dwij has a special focus on jeans since it is a versatile fabric, highly popular, durable and extremely sturdy.

Further, as mentioned above, the environmental costs of manufacturing of jeans in immense. Most people discard jeans because they fade off or the size no longer fits. The properties of jeans gives a very good opportunity to upcycle into other value added items that increases the lifespan of the fabric.

Dwij has an inhouse manufacturing set up, while they also engage women who work from home. Dwij aspires to adopt zero waste practices. As a zero waste initiative, dwij also makes jewellery from the cut- outs of its own manufacturing waste. Since its inception, Dwij has upcycled more than 3,500 pairs of jeans, 1200m of post industrial fabric & 800m of post industrial kurti fabric.

What can be done by you as a consumer?

Textile waste, is mindful consumption the only way ahead?

The

rising

and

largely

unaware

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SUSTAINABILITY phenomenon of textile dumping has reached such magnanimous volumes that leads us to the point that textile collection and old textile treatment is not a solution. Dwij believes that incremental changes to individual lifestyle can lead to a sustainable future.

Sustainability is more than just a buzzword. It’s time that we practice

it too. The solution is to change our consumerism behavior.

Check your closet before buying new garments, repair your old ones and re-use, prefer quality over quantity, and simply “don’t buy too much”.

Clothes for special occasions or meant for single use may also be borrowed.

the importance of conservation through upcycling of everyday items at home. We also need to realize that once thorough washing procedures are followed, upcycled products are also as hygenic as a new product.

Together we can easily fight fast fashion and transform the world through sustainable living!

Awareness needs to be created about

INCLINING TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY working across its supply chain. The prevailing business model thrives on producing exponentially more clothes than people need. It is estimated that 60% of garments are now made from polyester. This quantity has doubled since the year 2000. It is also estimated that 150 million trees are logged every year to be turned into cellulose textiles, like viscose. The chemical dyes used in the production process pollute our rivers and environment.

However, there is a silver lining.

AVNI AGGARWAL- FOUNDER OF SUNDARII HANDMADE

The world is dealing with the most dangerous pandemic ever and on the other hand, the Earth is reviving like a reboot button has been pushed. The need to stay home and managing in what each one of us has is the need of the hour. The situation of slow life takes us back to the era when things were simpler, slower, and cherished.

People were more inclined towards a sustainable lifestyle earlier than what we are today. Nowadays, cheaper machine-made fast fashion products are easily available just a click away.

As per the Fashion Revolution White Paper 2020, the global fashion industry relies upon the exploitation of natural resources & people

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There are few brands in the Industry who are striving hard to maintain the sustainability quotient and make it more affordable and approachable. Sundarii Handmade is one such sustainable and ethical women apparel brand. Their journey began two and half year ago with a mission to revive, uplift, protect the artisan, weavers and environment at large. As they wanted to make a positive impact each day with their 100% sustainable clothing, emerged as one of the Ajrakh specialist, committed to keep the authenticity of the artistic process intact which makes them stand out from the crowd. And by authenticity of the craft we mean from natural dyes, natural fabric and printing process all are slow and authentic to the craft. Some natural dyes take about one month to get ready.

Sustainability is not a buzzword for Sundarii Handmade as they are a zero waste brand working with artisans, weavers, tribal and underprivileged women, and marginalised groups to launch best products in the market.

Avni Aggarwal, the founder of Sundarii handmade is a social worker by profession, who always aspired to make a positive impact in the life of the people. Avni has travelled extensively to the innermost part of the rural areas of India to gain first-hand knowledge of various craft techniques and to understand the condition of our skilled artisans and weavers who are striving hard to survive in this machine influenced industry. Sundarii handmade decided to go against the wind with slow fashion in the fast fashion industry .

Avni is striving hard to educate and bring awareness about sustainability and its benefit; and the various craft techniques of India so that the customer is empowered. The brand has a lot to offer ranging from beautiful Ajrakh ,Dabu and Ikat and Banarasi sarees to quirky handcrafted blouses, tops, dresses and stoles.

They are shipping across the globe and boast of their clientele in 15+ countries. You can purchase their handcrafted products on Instagram, Facebook and Etsy.

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March 2020

SUSTAINABILITY

SUSTAINABILITY AND HANDLOOM issues in ways you may not expect.

Changes in buying habits have the power to make a difference. By switching towards sustainably and ethically sourced clothing, tonnes of fabric can be saved that end up in landfills, every day. Sustainable practice is better for the planet, the farmers, the garment workers and for the animals. When you support small business and home-grown brands, you support a dream. So why not support local businesses, promote local jobs and economy with fair practices, sustainability and curating timeless fashion for ourselves.

Deepika Choudhury- Founder of ANTARANG

Sustainability is the most often used term in today’s time. Everyone is talking about it, but how many are really following it? The concept of sustainability is about meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own. But the umbrella of sustainability holds more scope than this. At its core, it’s an approach towards balancing different, and quite often competing for needs against the awareness of the environmental, social and economic limitations, etc. Put more simply, it’s about managing People, Planet and Profit, all together. Especially when it comes to fashion because this industry has been identified as a major polluter worldwide.

For people, living a sustainable life is not something that can be easily done. Tough choices are required and dealing with challenges can become mandatory and necessary too. When we come together as a community, we can support each other and make the process easier as well.

As we are suffering from the adverse effects of modernization on earth, ethical and sustainable clothing can actually help address many of these

March 2020

Weavers /artisans are the ultimate lifelines of our products. We started off by getting associated with weavers who practiced methods with age-old techniques, incorporating motifs inspired by imagination and centuryold folklores and whose generations gave been following processes to date which are intrinsically sustainable.

Though they do take the help of a few mechanical tools today just to help them with their productivity the core values remain same, and production largely sustainable. Ethical production is also a very integral part of sustainability and we ensure that every single product of ours is ethically made, sourced and the weavers are compensated fairly for their hard work. We also try to make sure that they have a steady stream of work and thus a steady income.

One of the best examples of sustainability is our khesh sarees. The old sarees which are not sold in the market are torn into thin strips and are interwoven with a thread during the saree making process to create beautiful 3D stripes within the new saree! The process is fascinating yet simple. And the perfect example of recycling and upcycling, recreating new garments with the old.

The journey has nothing been short of magical so far. We had never thought

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that we would be traveling far and to the remotest areas of the country to revive these crafted and woven beauties. Our travels have given us so much exposure to the world of craft that we never knew existed.

The techniques that artisans use, the way the fabrics are dyed with natural colours, how a piece of wood is finely crafted into a masterpiece called wooden hand-block, to how a bunch of humble yarn is woven into magnificent 6 yards. It’s like a dream that you live when you see them being made on a loom in a tiny hutment with an artisan sitting on a wooden bench with just a modest bulb and table fan.

That tic-tock tic-tock of the hand-loom is like music to the ears. The respect grows manifolds for such artists and craftsmen who are far above others in techniques and creativity without any formal training.

Welcome to the world of colours, Antarang: something that you love from your heart. And indeed, Antarang was born out of love for the magic that these handcrafted sarees and fabrics bring with them. Who knew one day those silly childhood games of draping mom’s sarees, to admiring the gorgeous drapes of the teachers in school, will become a full-time passion? Even after a successful career in the advertising industry for almost 12 years, the love for sarees and the countless and varied forms of art and culture across India just kept growing with each passing day.

Thus in 2018, the journey of Antarang began, by putting an end to many odds. Today, Antarang is a humble, home-grown brand from Gurgaon, where we celebrate handloom in all its glory while creating and curating finest hand-crafted collections that captures the spirit and essence of India. There is an abundance of weaves, prints, embroideries, and crafts around us, all we need is to do is appreciate the love and effort behind them.

Our handloom sarees are handpicked

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SUSTAINABILITY directly from the weavers across the country who are our true designers with an abundance of heritage and craft knowledge behind them, weaving their magic by pouring life into any saree. The process of weaving is a celebration of centuries of sustainability, tradition and the authenticity of Indian arts that truly shine through. But due to the strong emergence and acceptance of fast fashion, with today’s generation, they are dying slowly. Lack of possibilities and funds are leading the next generation of artisans to move to bigger towns for better work prospects so that they can earn well for their families. We are the bridge between the weavers and patrons so that no middleman pointlessly pilfers the profit and leaves them with

something that doesn’t even covers his basic price. And hence it is our duty to support and empower them so that they can continue their craft with pride.

We believe, Sarees are not meant only for special occasions but they have the ability to make an ordinary day into a special one for you. They perfectly bring out the culturally rooted yet stylish personality of the Indian women. We want you to feel nothing short of amazing when draped in a saree and believe in the fact that sarees are still as comfortable and as stylish at the same time like they were in our grandmom’s times. Remember if they could do an all days’ work wearing a saree, you too can.

We want Handloom and Handcrafted products to become a part of your everyday wardrobe. Each product is a reminder that what a pair of hands, dipped in love, using ancient techniques can create, can never be replicated on a machine. Making each one of its kind a treasure forever.

At Antarang, we celebrate and represent the numerous souls who have worked hard on the product before it reaches you.

We truly believe in – Reviving Simplicity!

The article is written by Deepika Choudhury, founder of Antarang Instagram page of Antarang- https:// www.instagram.com/myantarang/

GREENING OF TEXTILES

Sophielucie Dewulf- Expert Consultant

Sophielucie Dewulf- Expert Consultant

Could you enlighten us about your company/ your role or your participation in brief?

Being passionate about the textile universe, we devoted career and still dedicate purpose and motivation to this uniquely challenging industry.

Whether as an independent consultant for SME’s or as a collaborator for corporate brands, the work that satisfies most is supplying tailor-made advisory projects and

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product development reports to forward-thinking players of the global fashion and textile scenario.

The aim was and keeps to make a difference through the delivery of “think-different directions” over “seasonal trends”. Directions and visions are conceived upon our sense yet fine-tuned by consumer behavior tracking combined to macro market plus society analysis and serve as easy support tools to the teams of design, marketing, and sourcing departments. A few years back, we started to pursue a new pathway; we see ourselves as a continuous process and time had arrived to move on to improve beyond the obvious. This professional adventure, motivated by our over-time acquired awareness and consciousness, has been leading to Sophielucie DewulfExpert Consultant Sophielucie Dewulf- Expert Consultant

Could you enlighten us about your company/ your role or your participation in brief?

Being passionate about the textile universe, we devoted career and still

dedicate purpose and motivation to this uniquely challenging industry.

Whether as an independent consultant for SME’s or as a collaborator for corporate brands, the work that satisfies most is supplying tailor-made advisory projects and product development reports to forward-thinking players of the global fashion and textile scenario.

The aim was and keeps to make a difference through the delivery of “think-different directions” over “seasonal trends”. Directions and visions are conceived upon our sense yet fine-tuned by consumer behavior tracking combined to macro market plus society analysis and serve as easy support tools to the teams of design, marketing, and sourcing departments. A few years back, we started to pursue a new pathway; we see ourselves as a continuous process and time had arrived to move on to improve beyond the obvious. This professional adventure, motivated by our over-time acquired awareness and consciousness, has been leading to coaching and sharing future insights with “next” generations, aiming to put our stone

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March 2020

SUSTAINABILITY in progressing towards a transparent and better textile and fashion industry for humankind and earth.

Individual success isn’t our thing, shared continuous development through mindset diversity while creating new work environments based on teamwork is our mantra.

To implement sustainable development, in which area of textiles you specifically aim to see change and how do you see the perspective of the industry towards it?

To achieve successful sustainable development in textile manufacturing, ALL areas of the production chain need a reset activated by deep change. We have a problem in our industry and we need to eradicate our faults and weaknesses. Starting from the raw material sourcing (which should be based on low-impact fibres choices) followed by the manufacturing area which inevitably will rely on renewable energy (instead of being fossil-fuelled) while avoiding water waste and pollution.

Waste management and fair labor conditions are two other key areas.

This huge process change has been heralded over and over… fact is this massive disruptive transformation is complex and we cannot “rebuild” such an influential industry overnight. Technology, digitalization, and co-operation together are key drivers to implement sustainable development. Yet, a shift in business culture is THE starting point. Business as usual is an extremely outdated old school management practice. A new Cultural Mindset in liaison with Disruption is the only possible new normal to move forward.

We are obviously at a historical crossroad in the fashion business yet challenging opportunities are arising!

The downside is that this “cultural shift” includes “cutting down” on quantities and on the industry profits which are now benefiting only a few. Not a very welcomed concept

by CEO’s with a fixed mindset… We (from producer to consumer) need to

March 2020

go out of our comfort zone, learn to develop better our mindset including agility and resilience capacities to “welcome” the problem and accept as a challenge instead of as of a insurmountable obstacle.

What is your opinion on the idea of transitioning from a “take-make-dispose” economy towards “closing the loop?”

It is all but an option, it is a must-do fact! If we wanna stay alive in the textile industry and supply chain we need to learn, understand, believe and implement the principles of circular economy. It is as simple as that. Circular Creation or nothing.

Unfortunately, getting rid of the “take-make-dispose” principle still sounds extremely discomforting to many people…

What is your opinion of the industry to develop a circular business model during the crisis of coronavirus?

This health and economic pandemic that humankind is facing shouldn’t be the “emergency” motivation behind developing a circular business model for your company. To successful transform your business model from linear to circular, full commitment and believe is critical. Although, I do firmly hope that this forced lockdown and economic crisis eventually will shape a new way of thinking. It is forcing the globe to stop or to slow down and reflect. TO CONVERT. From my viewpoint this crisis is offering an unprecedented opportunity to pursue purpose-filled actions and relish the challenges, striving to make possible what was previously defined as impossible or not necessary. Our energy needs to be willingly put into bettering ourselves and the world around us, and we can do so through sustainable development goals.

Why according to you greening of textiles should be an ideology that the industry needs to keep in mind before manufacturing the product?

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I advocate for circular economy principles applied to the entire supply chain, not solely to the textile supply chain. As you correctly mention in your question, it all starts with the product design, whether we talk about a dress, a fabric, a car or a wheel: any product conception needs to start with “circular design principles” based on the closed-loop life cycle and having the end-of-life of the product in mind. Last but not least: the entire process needs to be trackable (achievable through digitalised technology as blockchain – QR coding and their evolutions we will see tomorrow) to deliver complete product and production transparency.

What was the story that interested you to move forward in the direction of sustainability?

It never has been a sudden move, it has been a lifetime interest discovered and developed while being a kid: long before there was notion of linear or circular business models, my father set up a successful consumer-waste glass recycling business. I was swept away by its system and incredible mechanism.

Even later on, while pursuing fashion and textile studies, I kept visiting my father’s company each week to simply observe … I was simply fascinated and yes…inspired! I got the notion of “life-cycle” of a product and had another vision on waste: waste was not put in landfill or oceans, it wasn’t burnt… it was re-converted in raw material over and over. We have been pushing to advocate closedloop creation in fashion long before climate change was a buz concept; but society – not only the industry – wasn’t mature for it, consciousness was missing, awareness and self-reflection was avoided. Now we are all forced somehow to self-reflect and to act for the better, let’s grab this phenomenal opportunity, for the good of all: planet and people! I invite anyone to be part actively of this remarkable challenge.

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INDUSTRY UPDATE

INDUSTRY 4.0 : A NEW DIGITAL AGE MS. SAMPADA GIRISH SURVE B.Sc. in Textiles & Apparel Designing SVT college of Home Scinec

Introduction: The rise of new digital industrial technology, known as Industry 4.0, is a transformation that makes it possible to gather and analyze data across machines, enabling faster, more flexible, and more efficient processes to produce higher-quality goods at reduced costs.

Industry 4.0 is used interchangeably with the fourth industrial revolution and represents a new stage in the organization and control of the industrial value chain. Industry 4.0 has been defined as “a name for the current trend of automation and data exchange in manufacturing technologies, including cyber-physical systems, the Internet of things, cloud

computing and cognitive computing and creating the smart factory”.

Industrial Revolution: y The first industrial revolution, thanks to invention of steam machines, the usage of water and all sorts of other machines, led to the industrial transformation of society with mechanization of manu-

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facturing. y The second industrial revolution is typically seen as the period where electricity and new manufacturing inventions which led to the area of mass production and to some extent to automation. y The third industrial revolution had everything to do with the rise of computers, computer networks, and the rise of robotics in manufacturing, connectivity. And the birth of the Internet was the biggest game changer with far more automation. y In the fourth industrial revolution, the bridging of digital and physical environments is happening with automation and optimization in innovative ways that leads to ample opportunities to innovate, fully

automate and bring the industry to the next level.

Need for revolution:

4th

Industrial

The Fourth Industrial Revolution has the potential to raise global income levels and improve the quality of life for populations around the world.

Technological innovation will also

lead to a supply-side miracle, with long-term gains in efficiency and productivity. Transportation and communication costs will drop; logistics and global supply chains will become more effective; and the cost of trade will diminish; all of which will open new markets and drive economic growth leading you into a sustainable and profitable future.

Applications of Industry 4.0 Textile 4.0 Textile 4.0 is an interpretation and application of Industry Revolution 4.0 in the Textiles Technology and Textile Manufacturing sectors across the supply chain in Spinning, Weaving, Finishing and Garmenting. Due to the rising cost, high-end consumer, and the complex value chain, competitiveness of global manufacturing industry weakens and makes it imminent to upgrade.

The world is at the threshold of a new industrial revolution characterized by Artificial Intelligence, Internet of Things, next-generation robotics, 3D printing, wearable’s, gentle engineering, nanotechnology, advanced materials, biotechnology and others. Industry 4.0 is the future of manufacturing technologies and is increasingly important trend in automation and data exchange.

This enhanced technology, digital systems and automated processes will make it optimum for manufacturing of quality products. Industry 4.0 includes cyber- physical systems, the Internet of things, cloud computing and cognitive computing which creates what is being defined as a “Smart Factory”.

Smart manufacturing: It covers many different technologies. Some of the key technologies in the smart manufacturing movement include big data processing capabilities, industrial connectivity devices & services and advanced robotics.

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INDUSTRY UPDATE and analyzing large chunk of data collected from manufacturing, purchase, marketing and logistics, etc.

Optimize logistics and supply chains: A connected supply chain can adjust and accommodate when new information is presented. If a weather delay ties up a shipment, a connected system can proactively adjust to that reality and modify manufacturing priorities.

Autonomous equipment and vehicles: There are shipping yards that are leveraging autonomous cranes and trucks to streamline operations as they accept shipping containers from the ships.

Robots: From picking products at a warehouse to getting them ready to ship, autonomous robots can quickly and safely support manufacturers.

3D printing: This technology has progressed from primarily being used for prototyping to actual production.

Advancement in the use of metal additive manufacturing have opened up a lot of possibilities for production.

Internet of Things and the cloud: Not only does this help internal operations, but, through the use of the cloud environment where data is stored, equipment and operations can be optimized by leveraging the insights of others using the same equipment or to allow smaller enterprises access to technology they wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be able to on their own.

Artificial Intelligence: It is used by the textile companies for trend predictions and machine diagnosis

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Cyber-physical systems: From raw materials to product sales, digital tracking device is connected to each other according to standard protocols for data analysis, error forecast and self-configuring.

How will textile 4.0 help Indian Textile Industry?

The automation and artificial intelligence is gradually making a backdoor entry in the textile industry and in the coming years more and more textile production centres will become smart factories.

Indian textile industry will have no choice but to catch up with the rest of the world by converting the production centres into smart factories in view of rising labour costs, increasing manufacturing and energy costs and wastages in the process. Only by riding on the wave of Textile 4.0, Indian manufacturing will become more competitive against major textile producing countries like China, Bangladesh and Srilanka. The Indian logistics sector is also rapidly adapting industry 4.0 and the supply chain of textile industry will get benefited due to the same in terms of proper production planning as well as fast movement of goods.

In view of the new challenges for the textile industry, it is necessary that the business leaders and the managers understand its implications and prepare a roadmap to successfully integrate the manufacturing, supply chain, marketing to achieve Textile 4.0 compliance. Textile 4.0 will also need a totally different skill set for the managers and the operators and

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a specialized training will be required for them to make them useful in the new era.

Challenges in Industry 4.0

implementation

of

Economic: High economic costs; Business model adaptation; Excessive investment.

Social: Privacy concerns, Surveillance and distrust, General reluctance to change by stakeholders. With adaption to Textile 4.0, the traditional jobs are likely to be lost making way for new generation of IT and technology oriented employees.

Conclusion Industry is rebooting new digital age by adopting smart factory. The boom of global re-industrialization would make manufacturing more intense, competitive and the traditional model will be substituted for emerging model, which could be called integration of industrial chain better than an industrial revolution, and all participants in the production process will collaborate production in a new way. This manufacturing revolution will ultimately help in increasing productivity, improving economics resulting in fostering growth and changing the competitiveness of organizations.

References: https://www.textileassociationindia. org/upgrading-of-textile-manufacturing-based-on-industry-4-0/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Industry_4.0 https://www.bcg. com/en-in/capabilities/operations/ embracing-industry-4.0-rediscovering-growth.aspx https://www.forbes.com/sites/ bernardmarr/2018/09/02/ what-is-industry-4-0-heres-asuper-easy-explanation-foranyone/#66565aab9788 https://ategroup.com/news-andmedia/TEXTILE-40â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Is-the-IndianTextile-industry-ready/ https:// textile4zero.com/

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GARMENT MANUFACTURING INDUSTRY SIDRA PATEL

Textiles & Apparel Designing

clothing from ready-dyed pieces. This is above all the case because the risks involved in conventional manufacturing with reference to the correctness of the colour shade are substantial and frequently generated a broad colour range with increased storage cost. https://www.chinaimportal.com/blog/ india-clothing-manufacturers/

Introduction Garment manufacturing industry is primarily engaged in the design, cutting and sewing of garments from fabric. On industrial basis there are certain areas or sequence through which Garment are manufactured Textile industry has been playing a pivotal role in Indian economy.

Textile sector alone presently provides for nearly 28% of total organized manufacture sector’s employment in India. About 93 million people directly and indirectly are engaged in this industry. Indian Textile Industry enjoys inherent comparative advantage because it is almost self-reliant from the stage of production of raw materials to the delivery of finished products from cotton growing, ginning, spinning, and weaving to Manufacturing of clothing items.

The world fast moving towards natural products and as a result of this trend, demand for cotton Garment is increasing. The demand of hosiery garment is increasing at a fast pace because of the comfort and soft feel of the product.

Garment Dyeing Dyeing prefabricated items of clothing represent an interesting supplement to the conventional manufacturing of

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https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/ cloth-dyeing-services-8764560512.html

Dyeing clothing after fabrication bears the risk of a higher extent of damage should problem in the Dyeing process. In worst-case scenarios, losses in value after irreparable error as exacerbated by an inability to maintain delivery commitment.

Basic Theory of Garment Dyeing Depending on the wet fastnesses requirements the fabric, garment made from the cotton gray fabric are mainly dyed with direct and reactive dyes. For the low colour fastness direct dyes ars used and for high colour fastness reactive dyes are used for cotton garment Dyeing. If the cotton garment dyes with reactive dyes then two types are available in the market, namely:

commonly used for cotton garment dyeing. Because cotton garment dyeing with hot brand dyes facilitates easier and quicker dyeing process with reasonable good dyeing quality.

Stages of Production Apparel Production is generally done in four stages: 1. Procurement and Inspection of raw material 2. Laying and Cutting of fabric/material 3. Assembly of the product 4. Finishing and Packaging Besides these, there may be an additional stage of ‘Value Addition’, which is a term used to indicate any process that adds to the total cost of the product and hence increases the value of the product. The addition is to enhance use and serviceability/ functionality of the product and/or its aesthetic appeal. This includes special finishes to yarn and fabric (e.g., special washes to garments like sand wash or enzymes wash for denims) or surface ornamentation (e.g., prints, embroideries, etc.). This becomes specific to the product style and could be done before, during or after assembly of the product.

1.Procurement and Inspection of Raw Material

• Hot brand reactive dyes.

• Cold brand reactive dyes.

Among those two brand of reactive dyes, hot brand reactive dyes are

https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/07/ raw-material-inspection-in-garment.html

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GARMENT UPDATE The process of apparel manufacture begins with the procurement of raw material and inspection or checking of the same. This includes the fabric and trims (zippers, buttons, interlinings, labels, tags etc.). Fabric inspection is done to find faults or defects in the fabric. Ideally 100 per cent of fabric received should be checked before it is cut. However, when the fabric is procured from a reliable source or when the fabric is certified as fault free by the fabric manufacturer, only representative sample quantities are checked.

get woven intothe fabric.

• Slub: An abruptly thickened location in a yarn characterised bysoftness in twist and more or less of short duration.

b) Defects arising from weaving faults

• Misreed: A warp wise streak caused by improper spacing of theends across the fabric.

• Smash: An area where the fabric has been ruptured by thesimultaneous breaking of a large number of adjacent warpthreads.

c) Defects arising from dyeing faults

Fabric defects can be classified on the basis of the source of the faults as: (a) Yarn faults (b) Weaving faults (c) Dyeing faults

https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/08/ fabric-faults-created-during-dyeing-and.html

(d) Finishing faults Some defects may arise due to a combination of the factors detailed above.

• Colour run: The colour of one area has bled or superimposed on the colour of another area.

• Bar: Filling wise band across the full width characterised by achange in appearance from normal color or texture of finish.

• Shaded: The colour or bleach is not uniform from one locationto another.

Let us briefly examine some of these:

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Some-offabric-defect-caused-by-a-knitting-machine_ fig2_330820797

a) Defects arising from yarn faults

• Barre’: An unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuousbars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabric or to the course of circular knit fabric.

• Bias filling: The filling yarns or colour pattern not being at rightangle to the warp yarns.

• Bowed filling: The filling yarns or the colour pattern having acurvature.

• Broken end: A warp yarn missing for a portion of its length.

https://fashion2apparel.blogspot. com/2016/12/yarn-faults-spinning-types-yarnfault.html

• Coarse end and fine end: Warp yarns having a larger diameter orsmaller diameter than those normally being used in the fabric.

• Fuzz and Fuzz balls: Fuzz is the loose or frayed fibers originatingfrom the yarns. These may form tiny balls and

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• Float: Thread that extends unbound over the threads of theopposite yarn system with which it should normally be interlaced.

•

Kink: A short length of yarn spontaneously doubled on itself.Also called curl, kinky thread, looped yarn, snarl.

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d) Defects arising from finishing faults • Baggy: A fabric which will not lie flat on the cutting table.

• Chafe: An area where the fabric has been damaged by abrasion or friction. Cuts, tears, crease, wrinkle and curled selvedges.

• Tentering marks: Enlarged pinholes or distorted areas along theedge of the fabric caused by the holding of the fabric to widthduring finishing.

Also called pin marks.

• Uneven finish: The finish is not uniform from one location toanother.

Fabric Inspection and Testing There are internationally accepted systems of fabric inspection which define the way the fabric is to be inspected and what constitutes an “OK” fabric. In all the systems, the fault or defect is assigned points based on its size, type, spread etc.

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GARMENT UPDATE The total points in a given linear length are then totalled and the fabric is ‘accepted’ or ‘rejected’.

Some companies have customised their own system by adapting from existing systems according to their need and specialised fabric types.

The acceptance criteria also depends on the final product (style, market, functionality, performance base, etc.) being made. Other than this, certain tests are also conducted to test the suitability of the fabric for its end use. The tests may be standard tests done by any fabric manufacturer or may be specially requisitioned by the buyer of the end product.

These tests include colour fastness (against light, moisture, perspiration, chlorine etc.), thread count, fabric weight, shrinkage, flame-retardant etc. Once the defect and its extent are identified, the possibility of repair/rectification is checked. If the fabric can be rectified, it is sent for the selected process. If not, the fabric is rejected. Some faults may be accepted if the extent is not very high i.e. it does not affect a large area of the fabric. Sometimes the decision to accept defected fabric may be taken if the cost and/or time involved in the reprocessing of the fabric are too high to be absorbed by the cost of the order. Fabric inspection is one of the most important steps in the process of production, as it defines the final quality of the product The cost of raw material in any garment is about 70%, out of which 90% or above is that of the fabric. In case this process is not carried out properly, the cost factor of the fabric component in the garment would increase leading to less profits and, in some cases, losses.

2. Laying and Cutting of Fabric/ Material The next stage in the production of garments is the planning and processing of the cutting of the fabric. This involves the following steps: a. Marker plan: A marker is defined as the placement of pattern pieces on fabric in such a manner that the

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consumption of fabric per garment is optimised. The first stage is to identify the number of pieces that make up the entire pattern of one unit of item. The planning of the marker defines the average consumption of the fabric per piece which ultimately affects the cost of the product.

Spreaders. These machines may be mechanically, electrically, electronically or computer operated. The final product of the spreading process is called a lay. The height of the lay will also affect and be affected by the cutting apparatus to be used. Care is taken during lay preparation that each lay consists of only one type of fabric. c. Marking: The patterns are traced on the top layer as per the define marker. In some cases a computerised printout of the marker on a paper sheet of the same width as the fabric may be used as thecover to the lay. This then gets cut with the fabric layers.

https://fashioninsiders.co/toolkit/how-to/ cutting-fabric-for-production-versus-sampling/

The marker may be planned by manually placing pattern pieces on a defined width of the table and creating permutations till the most optimum length is achieved. This is very time consuming especially where the number of pattern pieces involved are high (such as in a formal jacket). There is also the problem of copying the marker so that it can be replicated for multiple lays. The more efficient technique of marker planning is by using specific computer software or CAD system. In this, the pattern pieces are fed into the system (digitised) and planning is done on a monitor. This technique is time efficient and eliminates most of the errors that are related to a manual plan. A printout of the final marker/s is taken for replication which ensures that the consumption of fabric per unit of product is maintained. b.Spreading: Fabric is smoothened and spread along lengths of table in layers. The length of the layer is defined by the marker. The fabric layers are matched along one length edge and are equal in length. The fabric may be spread by hand or with the assistance of machines called

d.Cutting: The layers are cut simultaneously using machines that maybe controlled either manually or through computer systems.

There are different types of machines like the straight knife, round knife, band knife and die cutters. The height of the lay, i.e. number of layers in each lay, is dependent on the type of cutting apparatus as well as the dimensional stability of the fabric. Each type of cutting apparatus has its own merits and demerits — e.g., the straight knife machine is the most readily available and the cheapest of theme chained cutting apparatus. However, it is not the best choice to cut knitted or stretch fabrics as it does not have the grip that can control the dimensional stability of such a fabric while cutting.

The cutting apparatus used to cut a lay is usually mechanised. This is because scissors cannot cut through multiple layers with precision. Also the time and effort required in this is higher than may be possible in production. e. Bundling: The cut pieces are bundled for further processes of stitching/embroidery/printing etc.

The number of pieces in a bundles dependent on the type of production system and the process sequence to be followed. The bundles may have all the components of a garment or only selected ones. Along with bundling, ticketing of the components is done

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GARMENT UPDATE which identifies the layer number within the lay. This is done to ensure that components of one garment are cut from the same layer of fabric.

3. Assembly of the Product The garment pieces are next sent to the assembly or stitching section comprising of different types of sewing machines. The sewing machines may be multipurpose, i.e they can be used for different types of operations of sewing, or the machines may be specialised, i.e., they are used for specialised operations only. The more common of the first category of machines (multipurpose) is the Single Needle or Lockstitch Machine. It uses two threads to do the stitching, one which enters the fabric from the top through the needle and one which enters from the bottom through a bobbin. This machine can be used for any type of fabric and any kind of stitching operation. The lockstitch is reversible and a very stable, strong and inflexible stitch. It is also possible to work it in reverse direction to have a double stitching line.

For stitching of knitted fabric, the machine used is the Chain Stitch machine. This stitch may use between 1–5 threads for formation. The lower thread comes through a hooked device called the looper. The looper may or may not have its own source of thread. The chain stitch is flexible and non-reversible by nature. It is predominantly used to accommodate stretch in the fabric being sewn.

The commonly used type of this machine is the Over lock machine.

This machine is used for all garments made from knitted fabric.

one individual. The operators are extremely skilled and are capable of working on varied types of machines. b. Team working or module system — The garment is assembled by a group or team of operators. This is the most popular system in the garment manufacturing industry.

Each team is a mix of skilled, semi skilled and unskilled workers and jobs are allocated according to skill level requirements of the assembly process. c. Unit production system – The garment assembly process is broken into smaller units called operations.

Each operator is given one or more operations to do which need to be done on the same sewing machine.

The piece is passed from one operator to the next operator in a predetermined pattern enabling the total assembly of the product. This system is used effectively in units with large manufacturing facilities or/and in garments which have many operations as also in manufacturing units which are catering to production of a single product. This system is dependant more on the training of the operator. Operators are trained on specific machines and in specific type of operations so that their individual productivity is high.

The system does not work very well in small orders and for garments which have very few operations.

Quality Assurance in the Garment Industry

4. Finishing and Packaging https://clothingindustry.blogspot. com/2017/12/quality-assurance-processapparel.html

The process of assembly, i.e., the way in which the multiple pieces of the garment are put together to make a complete garment, may use one or a combination of multiple production systems. Some of these are:

http://hassanindustries.com/ft_finishing.html

a. Tailor system – Each operator or tailor assembles an entire garment.

This system is used mainly in customised clothing — clothing made to fit and to the measurements of

The garments are finally sent for finishing and packaging. The finishing process includes final inspections, stain removal, repairs, ironing/ pressing and folding. The pressing/

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ironing techniques would also define the final look of the garment (creases, folds, size of fold, etc.).

Packaging of garments can be done in many ways. Some garments are hanger packed (coats, jackets, suits, children’s dresses etc), some are fold packed (shirts, t-shirts, track suits, etc.) and some are folded and then hanger packed (trousers). The type of packaging is dependent on the specifications of the buyer, the display techniques at point of sale, the bulk of the garment (volume of individual piece), the price of the garment etc.

For exports, all the above detailed types of packaging may be used as specified by the buyer. The packing of the garments differs from packaging.

Packing is the process of preparing any product for dispatch from one place to another. The most common packing technique is the use of Cartons. A carton is made of layers of corrugated paper stuck together in a box shape (cube/ cuboid). The size of the carton can be customised as per requirement, defining its length, width and height.

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Quality of the product is defined as its ‘fitness for use’. That means the requirement of the customer actually dictates whether any product is a quality product or not. The frequently used term ‘Bad Quality’, hence, does not exist as the term ‘Quality’ by itself defines the fitness of the product. The quality of the product is ensured by – (a) Adopting proper procedure of work – defining the complete process of the product manufacture from

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GARMENT UPDATE raw material to finished goods and elaborating on operating procedures for each department. (b) Following the adopted procedure as defined above. (c) Selection and use of appropriate machinery. (d) Training of manpower – This is done at all levels, i.e., operators, supervisors and management - on machinery, maintenance, quality systems, production and the product. (e) Inspection of product at various stages of production - For this, crucial stages are selected. There are no defined rules on the frequency and quantity of inspection. Companies tend to develop their own rules for the same. The important issue is that the final product should conform to the standards and specifications laid out for the product in question.

Textile and Clothing Industry of India https://www.just-style.com/analysis/

india-lockdown-of-little-impact-as-ordersalready-cancelled_id138416.aspx

Textile and Clothing (T&C) industry is one of the key contributor in Indian economy. The textile industry accounts for 14% of industrial production, employs 35 million people, accounts for approximately 12% of country’s total export basket and contributes 4% of GDP. At current prices, the size of India’s textile industry is US$ 55 billion out of which 64% is consumed in domestic market only (Annual report 2009-10).

As per available WTO data, India’s

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percentage share in global textile and clothing trade was 4% in textiles and 2.8% in clothing during the year 2007. India’s rank in world trade has been 7th in textile and 6th in clothing. The vision statement for the textile industry in the 11th five-year plan (2007-12) is to secure 7% share in global textile trade by 2012. The export basket consists of a wide range of items comprising readymade garments, cotton textiles, handloom textiles, manmade fiber textiles, wool and woolen goods, silk, jute and handicrafts including carpets.

Readymade garments accounts for almost 42% of total textile exports.

Readymade garments and cotton textiles accounts for nearly 72% of total textile exports (Annual report 2009-10).

Exports of textile and clothing products from India have increased steadily over the past few years, particularly after 2004 when quota in textile was discontinued. In global context, India offers a comparative advantage in textile and apparel sector, with its excellent raw material base, skilled manpower and cost competitiveness. Through exports of textile and clothing products, India earns its major chunk of foreign exchange required to payoff for its imports and minimizes the trade deficit. .

The Indian textile industry has already established its name in supplying high quality yarns and grey fabrics to the world markets. However, it is yet to make and impact in finished products. It only makes sense to go in for further value added products such as garments and leverage on the country’s established name in the export markets. Naturally many textiles companies have announced plans to diversify into value added business to target a higher realization and compete better in the export markets (S.V. Arumugam 2006).

The Indian industry as a whole is going through one of its good times with growth rates going up from 5.8% in 2002-03 to 7% in 2003-04 and 8%

in 2004-05 (S.V. Arumugam 2006) and 8.5% in 2007-08. Year of 2008-09 has not been so good because of world-wide economic meltdown.

Where US along with some of the other economies of the world have shown negative growth or contraction in GDP, India has shown positive growth.

Since elimination of quota, the demand for Indian textile product has increased world-wide and India has emerged as strong global sourcing destination. Different foreign brands have opened their liaison or sourcing office in India. Most prominent names are Marks and Spenser, Nike, Haggar, Kellwood, Little Label and many more.

Impact of Covid-19 on the Indian Apparel & Textile Industry Indian Textiles and Apparels (T&A) industry, accounts for approximately 4% of the global T&A market. The T&A industry is one of the largest and the most important sectors for the Indian economy in terms of output, foreign exchange earnings and employment.

The industry contributes approximately 7% to industrial output in value terms, 2% to the GDP and 15% to the country’s export earnings.

Due to countrywide lockdown, however, the industry is grappling with major hurdles in the following areas:

Labour force and employment: T&A provides direct employment to over 45 million people but the nationwide lockdown has led to a temporary closure of factories and lay-offs have already begun among low wage workers.

Import & Exports of raw material and readymade garment: The Covid-19 pandemic is primarily expected to adversely impact exports and with second order impact on the domestic markets with both exports as well as domestic sales falling.

The pandemic has affected the majority of India’s export market

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TRADITIONAL TEXTILE (the US and EU together constitute for

approximately, 60% of the total apparel exports from India in value terms), causing order cancellations/deferral of order leading to inventory build-up and expectation of slower realization of export receivables leading to higher working capital requirements.

Apparel exports are expected to fall due to drying up of order in the last quarter of FY20, working capital issues and lack of clarity on the duties and incentives especially when exporters from Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Vietnam receive preferential access.

Additionally, domestic consumption is also getting impacted due to all India closure. New store openings have stopped and even domestic stores are facing an inventory build-up due to apparel sources for the upcoming summer season, Further, domestic prices could be negatively impacted if exporters dump their inventories in the domestic market leading to even reduced margins. This could lead to short term blips such as reduced employment of casual labour (factory

closures and people moving back to their home towns) and reduced consumption.

Cash flow constraints: The sector has been grappling with

profitability issues due to a sharp decline in yarn exports, cheaper imports etc. these issues only look to get aggravated further with the current crisis.

Supply chain disruption: The Garment manufacturers need to look at local sourcing opportunities, due impact on imports and export.

Consumer sentiment: If nationwide lockdown continues and the situation persists, it will impact consumer sentiment on the higher side, due to closure of the market and mall also to maintaining social distancing, safety and health.

The extent of the outbreak and lockdown would directly impact the length of the recovery cycle. However, to minimize the impact the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) has requested the government to immediately announce a relief package for the textile and apparel sector to mitigate the crisis being faced by the capital and labor-intensive textile Industry, post the corona virus spread.

Conclusion Garment production is an organized activity consisting of sequential processes such as laying, marking,

cutting, stitching, checking, finishing, pressing and packaging. This is a process of converting raw materials into finished products. It will be difficult to maintain the industry if production is not, up to the mark if the preproduction phase of preparation of material is not properly carried out.

Ready to wear apparel or garment manufacturing involves many processing steps, beginning with the idea or design concept and ending with a finished product. Apparel manufacturing process involves Product Design, Fabric Selection and Inspection, Patternmaking, Grading, Marking, Spreading, Cutting, Bundling, Sewing, Pressing or Folding, Finishing and Detailing, Dyeing and Washing, QC etc.

Reference http://ncert.nic.in/textbook/pdf/lehe203. pdf https://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/ bitstream/10603/2895/7/07_chapter%201. pdf https://www.admin. umt. edu. pk https://www.textilelearner. com https://www.iit.delhi.com https://www.slideshare.net http://www.retail4growth.com/news/ impact-of-covid-19-on-the-indian-appareltextile-industry-4963

TEXTILES OF SIKKIM BHAVIKA GULRAJANI Textiles & Apparel Designing HANDLOOM WEAVING

to weave clothes.Today cotton and woollen yarn are used together with vegetable dyes and synthetic colours.

Lepcha weaves or ‘thara’ is woven in vertical looms with a backstrap. Such looms are of small width. Traditional design with different colours are used to make tharas which are used for making bedspreads, bags, belts, curtains, cushion covers, table mats, tray cloths etc, apart from their traditional dress.

In ancient times, the Lepcha’s of Sikkim were said to use yarn spun out of stinging nettle (sisnu) plant

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Lepcha women folk work on traditional back-strap loin- looms that enhances the quality of the

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TRADITIONAL TEXTILE Lepcha

fabric. The vertical frame loom with a back strap used by the Lepcha women is indigenous in Sikkim. The weave frame is made from bamboo or various types of wood which is available. Nearly all types of weaves can be woven in the loin loom. On a loin loom, the possibilities of weaving pattern are unlimited. The cloth woven by the women is used for women’s traditional coat material.

Cotton yarn is the basic material where as the woolen yarn is utilized for the motifs over the coat. The raw material used by the Lepchas for their garments is cotton, and for blankets they use sheep wool. Lepchas rear their own sheep for the wool and some wool is also bought from local traders. The yarn is dyed and dried for at least a week before being put on loom for weaving. Both vegetable dyes and synthetic colour are used in dyeing. The colours are mainly white, black, red, yellow and green etc. The handloom products are ranged from plain to intricate patterns. Traditionally sheep wool was used, but with the intervention of the Directorate

of Handlooms and Handicrafts now cotton and acrylic is also being used.

Therefore, attractive colour combination and designs can be made today.

Tribes of Sikkim

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Lepchas are a Mongoloid community living in Sikkim, Darjeeling, Southwest Bhutan and Eastern Nepal. They call themselves Rong from the Lepcha words Rongkup or Rumkup meaning the children of snowy peak/ the children of God. Tradition has it that their creator God, Itbumu, created their progenitors Fudongthing and Nazongnyu from the pure virgin snows of Mt. Kanchenjunga. The couple was instructed to live like siblings but they violated the rules and gave birth to several children. Itbumu is believed to have summoned the two and said, ‘You have committed a sin. I cannot allow you two to live in this sacred mountain any longer.

As a punishment, both of you now must live at the foothills of Mt Kanchenjunga as humans and fend for yourselves’ (Aachulay magazine).

In the meantime, the abandoned babies grew up to be evil spirits and started troubling the people. After getting rid of seven children, the couple decided to keep their child who is now considered to be the first Lepcha. With their legends pointing Kanchenjunga as the place of origin, it is only understandable to find Lepchas living in the foothills of this mountain for a long time. They have no migration history although some

scholars speculate their coming from the east. J.C. White, the first Political Officer of Sikkim.

2.Bhutia (including Chumbisa, Dopthapa, Dukpa, Kagatay, Sherpa, Tibetan, Tromopa.

Bhutia Places they inhabit :Bhutia tribes are of the Tibetan origin. They migrated to Sikkim around 16th century. In the northern part of the Sikkim where they are the major inhabitants, they are known as the Lachenpas and Lachungpas. Majority of the Bhutias are concentrated in the dry valley of the north Sikkim.

Language and Costumes:Bhutia tribes usually speak Sikkimese. Apart from that they also speak Lepcha, Bhutia, Nepali, English and Hindi.

Bhutia male wear Bakhu which is a loose traditional dress with the full sleeves. While the women dress consists of Silken Honju, which is the full sleeves blouse and a loose gown type garment. Female also prefer wearing jewellery of pure Gold.

Population and Occupation :Bhutias forms 14% of the total population of Sikkim. They are extremely warm hearted and simple people. They prefer living in the joint families. A Bhutia house called Khin is usually built in the rectangular shape . Most Bhutia follow tantric Buddhism. The legal system among the Bhutias is termed as the Dzumsa, which means the rendezvous point of the common masses. Dzumsa is headed by Pipon who is the village headsmen. It ensured law and order and is responsible for conservation practises such as grazing, cultivation programs and the seasonal development of the community. Agriculture is the main source of occupation among the Bhutias. While some of them are also herdsmen and the breeder of sheep and yaks.

Cuisine : Bhutias usually prefer rice with the animal fat. They are common beef eaters. Some of their traditional costumes include Momos, Gya Thuk, Ningro with Churpi, Sidra Ko Achar, Saelroti, Shimi Ko Achar, Pakku, Kodo Ko Roti, Phapar Ko Roti, Silam Ko Achar, Phulaurah Gundruk, Phagshapa, Sael Roti. They are also fond of Chaang (the millet bear). It is served in the special bamboo container called Tongba with the hollow pipe made of Bamboo.

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TRADITIONAL TEXTILE Festivals : osar and Losoong are the main festivals celebrated among the Bhutia tribes. Losar falls in the first week of the February. It marks the beginning of the Tibetan New Year.

The act of Fire Metho takes place in the evening. Losoong marks the end of the harvest season and also the end of the Tibetan year. It falls in the end of the tenth Tibetan lunar month (in December). It is among the most important festival among the Bhutia tribes in India. Chaan dancings and merrymaking at the monasteries at Palace (Tsuklakhang), Phondong and Rumtek. Archery competition is

the Limbu clan names are unique, therefore it is not necessary to specify the Tribe or the place of origin every time the clan name is said.

The most Limbu (Yakthung) tribes are the original inhabitants and descended from the ancient Kirata mentioned in such Hindu epics as the Mahabharata, other thirteen clans of Limbus originated from Lhasa ghotra and Khasi gotra.

4.Tamang

the main attraction of the festival.

They make offerings to the God and exchange feasts among each other.

Stage fights and passing through the crowds with the fire torches add more excitement to the festival.

3.Limbu (Subba) The unification of Limbuwan kingdoms and Nepal has brought changed on Yakthungs(Limbu) as their Hindu caste system given them name to all those living in Limbuwan as Limbu, Subba and ranked them as one of the unenslavable alcohol consuming groups (namasine matwali jaat). After their land by loss of gorkhaland, the Limbus have divided into three nationality Nepalese Limbu, bhutanese limbu and Indian Limbu.

The Limbu nation is made up of hundreds of clans. Each Limbu clans are classified under their Tribe or subnational entity or according to their place of origin. Almost all

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Tamang make up the largest indigenous peoples among the 59 so far recognized by Nepal government.

The term Tamang is made up of two words—Ta which means horse and Mang, which means rider or trader. It is assumed that they were connected with business of horse trading or riding. They have their own distinct religion, language, culture, customs, rituals and lifestyles. They say that they are the original people of Yambu, the Kathmandu valley and there are settlements of Tamang around Yambu even today. But the large number of Tamang community lives in at adjoining districts of Kathmandu valley namely—Rasuwa, Makawanpur, Nuwakot, Dhading, Kavrepalanchowk, Sindhupalchowk, Dolakha and Sindhuli, in the middle hilly region to the Himalayan range of Nepal including in Kathmandu valley. However they are now spread all over the country, and beyond Nepal, they are especially found in large numbers in Darjeling, Sikkim, Asam and Nagaland of India and in Burma and Bhutan. According to the latest national census 2011, their population stands around 1,539,830, which is about 6 percent of the total population of the country. Besides,

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Nepal an estimation puts that approximately 2 million Tamang live in different parts of India, Bhutan and Burma.

Tamang are very rich in their tradition and culture. They have their own language, culture, dress and social structure. They have over 100 sub-clans. Tamang believe in Buddhism, and famously said that 90 percent of Tamang follow Buddhism as their religion. Their language comes from Tibeto-Burman language family. They follow the Tibetan calendar of the 12-year cycle and their typical song-dance Bhote-selo literally means ‘Tibetan tune’, which is famously known as Tamang selo, which include the songs of humor and wit, satire, joy and sorrow. Tamangs have their own music. Their musical instrument is called Damphu (a small round drum covered with goat skin).

Lepcha and Bhutia are also included under a special category known as the BL(Bhutia-Lepcha) Group which is quite different from the Tribal Status but it is a constitutional right safeguarding the interest of the two ethnic groups of the state

Sikkim Culture Sikkim is a beautiful land of manifold tribes and races of people living together. All these diverse tribes and communities have their unique features in addition to their particular dance forms, festivals, languages, culture, and craft forms. The miscellany of ethnic groups, religion, and languages is seen all over Sikkim.

Sikkim Languages Nepali is the primary language of Sikkim while Lepcha and Sikkimese (Bhutia) are also spoken in some part of this north-east province. English is also

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TRADITIONAL TEXTILE Teshi Festival. Falls on the fourth day of sixth Tibetan month, around the month of August, this festival is

spoken by the people of Sikkim.

Other languages include Kafle, Limbu, Majhwar, Yakha, Tamang, Tibetan, and Sherpa.

Sikkim Festivals Fairs & festivals of Sikkim Sikkim is a state in northeast Asia where numerous festivals are celebrated throughout the year.

Majority of the people of Sikkim follow Buddhism so the festival celebrated here are associated with the Buddhist and they are celebrated with a lot of pomp and as per the Buddhist calendar.

In Gompas or Monasteries of Sikkim, most of the festivals are celebrated where people gather together in order to celebrate the occasion.

During these festivals, the citizen of Sikkim involves in vibrant and lively dances and music.

lar is held on the full moon of the 4th month of the Buddhist calendar either at the end of May or at the beginning of June. This festival takes place in Gangtok.

Lhabab Dunchen Festival: This festival represents the descent of Lord Buddha from the heaven.

Lha means “Heaven” and bab

The most fascinating form of ritual dance that is performed by the Lamas is “Chaam” which involves colorful masks and amazing musical

Losar Festival:

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Phang Lhabsol is one of the most unique festivals of Sikkim, wad made renowned by ChakdorNamgyal, the 3rd ruler of Sikkim. This festival involves worshipping Mount Kanchendzonga and devoting for its uniting powers.

The festival of Bumchu is celebrated with full grandeur and zeal at the Tashiding Monastery in the West Sikkim in the month of January. Bum represents “pot or vase” and chu means “water”. During the celebration, the pot that is filled with the Holy water is opened by the Lamas present in the monastery.

A part of the heavenly water is then distributed to all the devotees who are gathered in this festival. And then, the pot is refilled again with water and sealed for the next year’s celebration since the level of the water in the pot depicts the prosperity of the future year.

Saga Dawa: A triple favored celebration, Saga Dawa is reckoned as one of the godliest festivals in Sikkim especially for the Mahayana Buddhists. On this particular day, the Buddhists visit the monasteries, offer the prayers and butter lamps as they were the three remarkable events associated with the existence of Buddha which is celebrated at this event. This particu-

Phang Lhabsol:

Bumchu Festival:

means “Descent”. Thus, this festival celebrates Lord Buddha’s descent from deva kingdom after teaching his departed mother, Mahamaya. This festival takes place on the 22nd day of the 9th lunar month every year. instruments. Lamas dressed with blithely painted masks, ceremonials swords, sparkling jewels, and dance on the rhythm of the music, drums, and horns. Some of the most popular festivals, notable in Sikkim are as follows:

celebrated with full excitement as on this day the Buddha lectured his first sermon of four Noble Truths to his five disciples in Sarnath at the very famous deer park.

Losoong Festival Losar is Tibetan New Year festival and is marked with a lot of festivities, gaiety, merrymaking, and feasting.

This festival usually celebrated in the first week of February.

Drupka Teshi Festival: Another amazing festival celebrated by the Buddhist is the Drupka

Another great festival of Sikkim, Losoong Festival is celebrated on the occasion of the end of the harvest season and at the end of the tenth month of Tibetan year in the rural Sikkim. During this festival, the Chaam dances by the people of Sikkim are performed. All these festivals take place at the Tsu-La-Khang monastery,

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March 2020

TRADITIONAL TEXTILE Phodong monastery, and Rumtek monastery.

Dasain Festival: It is the main festival of Hindu Nepalese in Sikkim which takes place a few weeks before the Losoong Festival. The celebration of this festival signifies the victory of good over evil. The elder people of the family apply “Tika” to younger people and give them their blessings.

Tihaar Festival: The Tihaar Festival is another exciting festival of Sikkim that is celebrated as the festival of lights which is somewhat like Diwali.

Hee Bermiok Tourism Festival: Hee Bermiok is an annual festival which is celebrated in Hee Bermiok city. This city is located nearby Gangtok. This festival started in 2005

People of Sikkim The people of Sikkim are warm, simple and friendly with a nature gaiety. In general, they are known as Sikkimese. But Sikkim is a state of diverse communities, cultures, religions and customs. Sikkim has a good mechanism of living harmony in between people of the states. It is a good example of Indian “Unity in Diversity”. There are three main communities in Sikkim – Lepchas, Bhutias and Nepalese.

And also many people are migrant to Sikkim, from overall India (likely Marwaris, Biharis, Bengalis, South Indians, Punjabis, etc) and Nepal.

They are mainly settled on the municipal areas of Sikkim, owing to their businesses and Government services. The developmental activities in Sikkim like construction of roads, bridges, buildings etc, have informally invited migrant laborers from the

Nowadays they are mainly adopting Buddhism or Christianity. Near about 10 to 14 percent of the population of Sikkim are belongs in this communities. The Lepchas are concentrated in the central part of Sikkim. This area are encompasses the confluence

of Lachen and Lachung rivers and Dickchu.

The Lepchas speak the language Lepcha, although this language is not very well developed but is rich in vocabulary related to the flora & fauna of Sikkim.

and the uncountable number of people comes to this beautiful city to join this amazing carnival. The festival takes place in the month of May every year.

Music & Dances of Sikkim: Dance & music of Sikkim, culture of Sikkim Folk songs and dances are an inveterate part of the Sikkimese culture. Most of the tribal dances depict the harvest season and they are performed for prosperity. The dances of Sikkim are accompanied by traditional musical instruments, chanting, and the dancers carry bright costumes and traditional masks. Some of the most famous dance forms are Rechungma, Gha To Kito, Chi Rmu, Be Yu Mista, Tashi Zaldha, Enchey Chaam, Lu Khangthamo, Gnungmala Gnunghey, and Kagyed Dance.

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Lifestyle of Lepcha : The Lepchas have a very simple plains and Nepal. A few thousand Tibetan Refugees are there who settled well in Sikkim.

There are brief discussions about three main communities of Sikkim: The Lepchas The Lepchas were said to be the original inhabitants of Sikkim the migration of Bhutias and Nepalese.

The word “Lepcha” means the ravine folk. They were believed in the bone faith or mune faith based on the spirits, good and bad. They used to worship spirits of mountains, rivers and forests like any other tribes.

Perhaps, this could be the reason why these people prefer to live in the healthy natural world. The Lepcha (Zongu) folklore is rich with stories.

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lifestyle. They are very intelligent and hospitable in their nature. They are peace-loving people who avoid quarrels. They love sports and very good at archery. The polyandry marriages are permitted amongst the Lepchas. They mostly live by business and on agriculture of paddy, cardamom and oranges.

They build a house known as “li”. It has a rectangular shape and 4 to 5 feet

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TRADITIONAL TEXTILE height, made by wood or bamboo.

“Honju” which is a full sleeve blouse and a loose gown type garment. The ladies are very fond of heavy jewelry made of pure gold. Sikkim has its religion incorporated with Bhutias.

Constituting around 16% of the total population of Sikkim, Bhutias regard priesthood as their academic as well

Nepalis’ are orthodox Hindus with the usual cast system and tribes like Bawans (Brahmans), Chhetries, Gurungs, Tamangs, Rais, Limbus,

Magars, Damais, Kamis etc .These people speak language that is similar to Hindi and is understood throughout the state of Sikkim.

A traditionally dressed Lepcha male wear half pajamas, under a robe made of striped cotton resembling a loose jacket- the whole ensemble is called a “pagi”. The Lepcha lady wears a two – piece dress -a full sleeved blouse called “tago” and a skirt called “domdyan”.

The Bhutias

as spiritual choice. The marriage in a Bhutia family is also arranged through negotiations. Before the marriage, the boy’s uncle goes to the girl’s house with gifts to ask for the hand in marriage for his nephew.

Bhutias usually take rice with animal fat fried vegetables or meat. The other foods are “Momo”(steamed

Lifestyle of Bhutias : A Bhutia house called “Khin” is usually of rectangular shape. The traditional dress of the male member is known as the “Bakhu” which is a loose cloak type garment with full sleeves.

The ladies dress consists of a silken

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The Nepalese are spread throughout the state. Their style of living is comparatively much economical. Their dresses and diets are simple. They are good farmers and businessmen. Also, they are ahead in education which enables them to get jobs in the Government.

The traditional Nepali dress for males comprises a long doublebreasted garment flowing below the waist along with a trouser known as ‘Daura Suruwal’. The traditional dress for females comprises of a double breasted garment known as ‘Chow Bandi Choli’. The shawl wore by

The Bhutias are originally belongs to the Tibetan origin. After the 15th century, these people migrated to Sikkim. Mainly they are settled on the

northern part of Sikkim, are known as the Lachenpas and Lachungpas. The Bhutias speak ‘Sikkimese’ language, dialect of the Tibetan language. If compared with the Lepchas, the Bhutias are dominating large number of villages.

Lifestyle of Nepalese:

samosa with meat inside) and Thukpa (Noodles). “Zhero” and “Khabzay” are beautiful salty tusks prepared from flour during the festivals like Losar/ Loosong.

The Nepalese The Nepalese appeared on the Sikkim after the Lepchas & Bhutias.

They migrated in large numbers and soon became the dominant community. In the present day, the Nepalese constitute 70% of the total population of Sikkim. They introduce commenced terrace farming in the state. Cardamom is an important cash crop that was cultivated by the Nepalese. Except for the Sherpas & Tamangs who are Buddhists, the

them is known as ‘Majetro’. ‘Khukri’ is a heavy weapon that is carried in a wooden or leather case known as “Daab”.

Traditional Attires in Sikkim Emerging from the ethnic soil of Sikkim and accentuating its culture is the traditional attire known as Kho, as per Bhutia and Bhaku according to the Nepalese dialect. This attire has a loose appearance almost like a cloak

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March 2020

TRADITIONAL TEXTILE garment which needs to be tightened around the neck area and needs to be belted towards the waist portion.

The belt is made of either Cotton or silk in texture and fabric. Men, as well as women, add grace to this outfit by adding more elegance and beauty in their own signature styles.

Origin and History The traditional attire in Sikkim traces its historical emergence centuries aback when it was ruled by the dynasty of Bhutia Namgyal. It was during his era, that this Sikkim traditional attire was promoted and embraced by the elite classes of the Sikkimese society. This outfit brought

men.

Influences over the years Previously, a pure traditional attire in Sikkim showcased bakhu which was escorted with cotton or silk belts and leather boots. But over the years, more additions have refined the essence of the outfit in form of a waistcoat popularly known as Jya Jya, shambo which is an embroidered cap and a jacket called Kushen. With these new enhancements, the overall

Innovations

Style There are different styles according to which men and women of Sikkim wear this traditional attire. For instance, men wear Bakhu with a pair of loose trousers fastened with a leather belt. Women belt this outfit over a silk blouse which is full sleeved, ethnically known as honju.

Married women wear this attire in a symbolic way which showcases their marital status as well. This entire robe is called the pangden. Leather boots are also accompanied and preferred with this outfit by women as well as

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Global Influence Owing to the comfortable feel of the fabric and its creative finesse, international markets have started to embrace the creativity of design in their own techniques and creations, which has managed to steal the hearts and minds of people all over the world.

The Attire Suitability To enhance the look of this traditional attire in Sikkim, men generally go in for embroidered hats and boots to compliment the look. Women to complete the attire, accessorize themselves with gold plated neck pieces are known as Lyak , Gyar which are bracelets, pearl ornaments called Diu, Khalli which are thick and silver coated anklets and Namchok which are ethnic and traditional ear drops and rings. It is universally known that Sikkimese women prefer heavy and chunky gold ornaments and jewelry to complete the entire traditional fashion experience.

look has become more elegant and poised, while retaining the original crust of the attire.

status, class, and position among the communities which kept them apart from the rest.

fashionable trends and options for people with different tastes in style.

More variations in colors and patterns have enriched the entire look and feel of the traditional attire in Sikkim in the last several years and among todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trendier generations.

Different varieties in blouses like Chaubandi Cholo and Tharo cholo have emerged, which makes the outfit classier. These blouses are intrinsically printed and embroidered with flowery patterns and designs.

Urbanized colors have upgraded the entire outlook of the outfit towards advanced fashion levels.

Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s generation Sikkimese women wear jeans with the bakhu outfit which gives a western twist to the entire tradition. Besides, even shawls that are popularly known as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Majetro have been added to the entire attire, which has produced and created

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Traditionally, crediting to the coarse texture of this outfit, men wore this traditional garb while working in forests and fields. But when the outfit was introduced to finer fabrics like Cotton and Silk, it acquired a more stately appeal which made it fit for wedding ceremonies, folk festivals, harvest festivals, religious rituals and

other gatherings.

Ornaments

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TRADITIONAL TEXTILE Sikkim Ornament

upper portion of the body is known as Hembari, whereas a colourful piece hanging from the head to waist during a dance performance is

A Lepcha male wears Thakro, a colourful sheet, Yenthatse (shirt) and a Shambo (cap). The Lepcha female dress comprises of Dumbun (a kind of sheet worn sari style), Tago (loose

known as Pachauri.

blouse) , Nyamrek (belt) and Taro (cap). The beautiful ornaments used by the Lepcha women are: Namchok (ear-ring), Lyak (necklace), Gyar (bracelet), etc.

The attire of a Bhutia male consists of Kho (Bakhu), Jya Jya (waist coat), Yenthatse (shirt), Kera (cloth belt) and Shambo (cap). The Bhutia female dresses are: Kho (Bakhu), Hanju (loose blouse), Kushen (jacket), Shambo (cap different in design than used by men), and Shabcha (shoe).

Pangden, the striped apron is a symbol of married Bhutia women.

Sikkim OrnamentThe jewellery items used by the Bhutia women are known as Yencho (earring), Khao

(necklace), Phiru (pearl ornament), Diu (gold bangle) , and Joko (ring). On the other hand, common Nepalese men wear a shirt known as Daura, while their Churidar Pajama is known as Shurval, the waist coat is known as Aaaskot and their belt is known as Patuki. The colourful sari worn by a Nepali woman is known as Pharia, their long loose blouse tied from four sides is known as Chaubandi Cholo, while another type of popular blouse is known as Tharo Cholo. A piece of printed cloth covering the

The ornaments used by the Nepalese women are Sir-bandi (tiara), Kantha (necklace), Naugeri (necklace of pearl), Charanihari (another type of necklace), Tilhari (green bead with a long gold pendant worn normally by married women), Bulaki (nose-ring), Dungri (nose-pin), Tik-mala, Chandrahar, Chepti son (ear-ring), Gadwari (ear-ring), Chura of Silver (bracelet) and Kalli, thick heavy payal made of silver.

Article written by bhavika gulrajani B.Sc in Textile and Apparel Designing from Sir Vithaldas Thackersey College of Home Science. Textile Value Chain intern.

The pandemic situation occurred in the country due to covid 19, The government of India announced the lockdown to all over the country. After releasing that announcement on 22 march, Welspun India had decided to temporarily close its manufacturing operations at the two units with immediate effect till further notice of government authority.

Textiles major Welspun India on

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Wednesday said it has resumed partial operations at its manufacturing facilities at Vapi and Anjar in Gujarat following receipt of permission from district authorities. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In continuation of our earlier disclosure dated March 24, 2020, we hereby inform that we have received permissions from administrative authorities of Valsad District and Kutch District in the state of Gujarat

to start operations with effect from April 21, 2020 and the company has resumed partial operations,â&#x20AC;? it said in a regulatory filing. Under new guidelines for the extended lockdown till May 3, the home ministry had allowed industrial units in rural areas or outside municipal limits to resume partial operations after April 20 under strict hygiene and safety conditions.

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March 2020

NEWS

WELSPUN INDIA RESUMES PARTIAL OPS AT MANUFACTURING FACILITIES IN GUJARAT

SHOW REPORT

TEXCON -2020 Trust.

Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology of Shri Vaishnav Vidhyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya organized a two days National Textile Conference “TEXCON–2020” on 05th& 06th March 2020. The theme of conference was “Contemporary Issues in Textile Manufacturing Process from Fiber to Garment”. TEXCON-2020 was aimed at bringing together the entire extended textile fraternity on one platform for the intellectual interface of varied domains. Each delegate has shared their experiences and discussed the practical challenges and solutions that can be adopted.

Day 1: 5th March, 2020 Inaugural Session The inaugural ceremony commenced with the lightning of the lamp by a group of dignitaries–Chief Guest, Dr. R. L. Raina, Vice Chancellor of J.K. Lakshmipat University Jaipur, Guest of Honor, Shri Kumar Purushottam (I.A.S.) Executive Director M.P.I.D.C. Indore. Guest of Honor, Shri Nitinji Seth C.O.O. Arvind Ltd. Knits Division, Ahmadabad, Honorable Shri Purushottamdas Pasari, Chancellor of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, Dr. Upinder Dhar, Vice Chancellor of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya, Dr. R.K. Datta, Director of Shri Vaishnav Institute of Textile Technology, Shri Kamalnarayan Bhuradiya , Honorary Secretary of Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth

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Dr. R. K. Datta brief about Texcon-2020 .Dr. Upinder Dhar formally welcomed all the dignitaries and the participants from the various part of the country. He mentioned that Indian textile industry, currently estimated at around US $150 billion, is expected to reach US $ 300 billion by 2025. The textile and apparel industry is the second largest employer in the country providing employment to 45 million people. He highlighted the need and requirement of innovation in the current scenario. Shri Purushottamdasji Pasari congratulated the organizing committee of TEXCON - 2020 that has provided a platform to the academia and industry to present their research work and helped everybody to gain the knowledge. The conference book “Contemporary Issues in Textile Manufacturing Process from Fiber to Garment” was also released.

Shri Kumar Purushottam (IAS) emphasized on various government policies and futuristic views for textiles and g a r m e n t industries.

He urges to young textile engineers to improve the productivity of textile. Shri Nitin Seth shared his experience & discussed on cost competiveness of Indian garment in this fast fashion

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world. Chief Guest, Dr. R.L. Raina also congratulated everybody for organizing TEXCON – 2020 and appreciated the various research works for the benefit of the society. He emphasized on various projects related to sericulture of silk, handlooms products and also talks about the role of academic institutes and students for the development of overall textile Industry. Finally, Shri Kamalnarayan Bhuradiya proposed the words of thanks.

Plenary Session-I Dr. J. Hayavadana, Professor, University College of Technology, Osmania University, Hyderabad, presented a research paper on Challenges for Ikat Dyeing in Nalgonda District of Telangana State.

Dr. Ashwini K. Agrawal, Professor and H.O.D., Department of Textile Technology, I.I.T. Delhi, discussed about the development of Nano Engineered Janus structure for highly functional textile material. Mr.Kunal Toshwani, Executive Manager, Raymond Limited, talked on various issues in the manufacturing of

garments looking to the perspective end-uses of the customer. The Session chair was Dr. R.K. Datta, Director, SVITT.

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SHOW REPORT Plenary Session-II Dr. Ashok Athayle, Professor, Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology Mumbai, presented a paper on Renewable Polyester & discussed about the PLA . Dr. Gautam Bose,Ex Principal Scientist of ICAR, Kolkata, described on various natural growing in the vast unexplored of natural fibers in India.

Mr. V.K. A.K. Pandey, A.G.M., Voltas Textile Machinery Division, discussed on “Innovation and Value Creation” of textile spinning machines to push the industry 4.0 revolution. The Session chair was Dr. Santosh Dhar Dean, FDSR, SVVV. Thereafter two concurrent sessions were conducted, in that 11 technical papers were presented.

Day 2: 6th March, 2020 Plenary Session - 3 Dr. P.A. Khatwani, Professor ,Sarvajanik College of Engineering& Technology, Surat, presented a paper on Nonwoven Fabrics: Gateway to the Broad Market of Innovations & discussed various issues on nonwoven fabric.Dr. B. Basu, Consultant, Mumbai, presented a paper on crisis in Bhiwandi power loom sector with their problem and much needed solutions. The Session Chair was Dr. U.C. Choubey, Emeritus Professor, SVITS

Plenary Session – 4 Dr. Vinay Kumar Midha, Professor, Department of Textile Technology, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar, presented paper on the dynamic of lock stitch sewing process with the effect of tension variation of sewing thread on the properties of garments.

Prof. Jomichan Pattathil, Professor, N.I.F.T., Mumbai, discussed about the Adoption of CAD in Indian garment manufacturing sector to assess the stakeholder perception. Dr. R. Ramachandran, Associate Professor, Department of Fashion Technol-

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ogy, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore, presented a paper on 3D printing technology & discussed about the methods of applications of that .The Session Chair was Dr. Shirish Jain, Professor, & Exam Controller, SVVV

Plenary Session – 5 Mr. R. N. Yadav, Principal Consultant, Aaryan Associates, delivered a lecture on the Role of Job Restructuring, Discipline and Productivity for the Indian textile industry. Dr. R. N. Joshi, Associate Professor, SGGSIE & T, Nanded, delivered lecture online through Google Duo. He spoke on a case study to the producers of starting and shutdown of melt spinning line of polyester plant. The Session Chair was Dr. P. A. Khatwani, Professor, Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat. Thereafter two concurrent sessions were conducted, in that 7 technical papers were presented.

Valedictory Ceremony The Chief Guest of the Valedictory Ceremony was Mr. Rajeev Sharma (IAS), Commissioner, Directorate of Handloom & Handicraft and Managing Director, Sant Ravidas Madhya Pradesh Hastashilp evam Hathkargha Vikas Nigam, Bhopal . In Valedictory ceremony, Dr. R. K. Datta, Chairman, Texcon – 2020 presented conference report. Dr. Upinder Dhar, Vice Chancellor, Shri Vaishnav Vidhyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya said that the textile sector is always consider as an important sector of the society.

Now the time for the value addition and needs to upgrade process and technology and innovates some new products. The brochure of TEXCON 2021 was also released .Chief Guest, Mr. Rajeev Sharma (IAS) said that the Indian fabric is always considering a prime market for the foreign textile business. India covered the 20 percent business in textile in past.

This was because of the specialty of the handlooms and handicrafts.

Now the time is to restructure of the

handloom sector. The Maheshwari Sarees is the important product of the Madhya Pradesh. This was developed by Devi Ahilyabai Holkar .

He also encouraged the students to work hard & give new technological ray on the development of Handloom & Handicrafts .He also shared the hope for the recruitment of fresh technocrats in this sector in future.

Prof. Ajay Shankar Joshi, Organizing Secretary,Texcon–2020 proposed the words of thanks.

In TEXCON 2020, students from various textile institutes also presented 11 technical posters .A Textile Exhibition was also organized, in that Sundaram Fashion, Mrignayani Emporium Indore and Raymond were participated .The students of B.Sc Fashion Designing, SVVV also exhibited their own designed garments. The Assistant Director & his team from Raja Ramanna Centre for Advanced Technology, Indore also demonstrated the eco friendly dyeing treatment.

The Gold Sponsor of TEXCON 2020 was Raymond Limited, Silver Sponsor was Vardhman Textiles Limited and Maral Overseas, Uttar Techno Consultancy, Sundaram Fashion, Nakoda Textiles, FIT.IN Men’s wear were the sponsors of TEXCON 2020. The Journal of Textile Association and Textile Value Chain were the media partners.

In TEXCON 2020, the faculties & students were also participated from Parul University-Waghodia, SMRK BK AK Mahila Mahavidyalaya-Nasik, Visva-Bharati (A Central University)- West Bengal,, Uttar Pradesh Textile Technology Institute, Sunrise University-Alwar, MPSTMENMIMS-Shirpur, SAIT-Bengaluru, Nirmala Niketan-Mumbai, VJTI-Mumbai, LDCE-Ahmedabad, M.S University -Baroda, NIT-Jalandhar and Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Viswavidyalaya .The delegates from Industries & Textile Association (India) were also presented in both days of conference.

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March 2020

SHOW REPORT

AEPC ORGANIZES INTERNATIONAL KNIT FAIR IN TIRUPUR; AIMS AT INCREASING INVESTMENTS FOR TEXTILES IN INDIA In an era of global slowdown and Indian textile industry is trying its level best to compete in the export, the recent fair by AEPC discusses on how India can advantage out of the sequence of events happening globally.

The 47 th edition of India International Knit Fair featuring all seasons was organized by ApparelExport Promotion Council (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India) under the umbrellaof India Knit Fair Association at IKFA Complex, Tirupur recently. The fair was inaugurated by S.Gunasekaran, Member of Legislative Assembly, Tirupur(South), M.Karunakaran, IAS, Director of Handlooms and Textiles, Govt. of Tamilnadu inthe presence of Dr. A.Sakthivel, Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council and India Knit Fair Association, B. Shanmuga Sundaram, Vice Chairman, IKFA, Easwaran, President,SIHMA, Buyers, Buying Agents, Exhibitors, Trade Members, and Government Officials. Inaugurating the event, S.Gunasekaran, MLA, Tirupur (South) expressed happiness that such an international event ishappening in Tirupur and appreciated the efforts of Dr A .Sakthivel for organizing the same.

He

expressed

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that

the

State

Government is helping out the manufacturing sector to make thestate as number one.Karunakaran, informed thatthe recent Textile Policy will support the growth of knitting and textile sector in the State. He said this after recalling the recommendations made in the 2019 Textile Policy such as incentives for processing,knitting and powerloom sectors and for setting up of industrial parks in the state. “The Government is keen in developing industrial sectors in the state for textileand apparel sector. He further greeted the exhibitors of the fair, appreciated their variety of display and expressed that such fairs exclusively for knitwear garments showcase to the worldabout our innovative products and will certainly bring in a lot of business.”

In his speech, Sakthivel, informed that 47th edition of India KnitFair was organized in the backdrop of the current economic scenario. “China’s Trade with othercountries is greatly affected due to Corona virus while U.K has detached itself from the EuropeanUnion. On the other side, Vietnam and Cambodia are exempted from Import Duty due to Free Trade Agreement.This is expected to make India a preferred market for sourcing for the buyers fromUS/UK/Europe and Canada etc. Also the countries which were depending on China havelearnt a lesson that they should have an alternate market for sourcing, which have made Indiaas their preferred destination.”, he concluded.

New Cotton form factors gets attention:

included Summer/Winter collections in knitwear for infants, kids,men and women. Space dyed yarn garments made from mélange yarn dyed stripes andjacquard were displayed along with cotton, Polyester, Poly cotton, Polyester-viscose blendedfabric apparels. Specially garments made from banana cotton blend have well attractedvisitors. Banana cotton blend with 80%cotton and 20%banana fibre has the property very cool and comfort. Garments with reverse print, cold pigment dyed, 3D print, acid spray styles, tieand dyed, bio washed, enzyme washed, etc also were showcased. It is also noticed that themanufacturers are now working on special designs, different types of packaging methods andalso visual merchandising.

A total number of 39 leading Exporters from Tiruppur, Coimbatore, Chennai, and Kolkattahave participated and displayed their products. They have expressed their satisfaction andhave shown interest in participating future events at Tirupur.The selection of Stall Awards was done in an unbiased and transparent way by a Committee ofTechnical Experts and the Special committee has selected the Best Exhibitors Awards andAppreciationCertificates to the following Exhibitors: M/s. PGR Exports, Tirupur : BEST EXHIBIT M/s. Ahill Knit Exports, Tirupur : FIRST RUNNER-UP M/s. True Worth Inc, Tirupur : SECOND RUNNER-UP M/s. Twin Birds, Tirupur : CONSOLATION CERTIFICATE

The wide range of discplay in this fair

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SHOW REPORT

MSME KNIT APPREAL FEST DISCUSSES KEY ISSUES INGOVT POLICY, INNOVATION -Sudharsana Raju

the seminar.

MSME international knit apparel fest Tiruppur 2020 was organized at IKF trade fair complex Tiruppur recently.

The organizers also conducted a seminar on foreign trade policy and export methods. Digital marketing and online selling are the current trend of textile development they briefly conducted a workshop on that topic.ECGC support for export risk and development seminar with industrial experts they conducted

by MohanaSundaram, Managing Director of TTPK. Other key stalwarts from the textile industry major people all gathered for the function. In this exhibition, the organizers showcased all the logistics related to textile manufacturing and growth. The event had A to Z from yarn to manufacturing textile, the entire range of products were displayed in the event.

More than 150 manufacturers from the local market and more than 3000

This event inauguration was done

by Dr. Rajendra Kumar IAS, the State secretary for the textiles department.

This exhibition was conducted mainly for showcasing innovations in textile technology. Many new seminars related to textile development and manufacturing also took place in the event.

The organizers also showcased spinning mill technology to make value-branded cloth. The biodegradable things and manufacturing, especially in the textile industry is the major theme of the exhibition.

Socially and economically beneficial aspect of the funds allocated by the Government was discussed during

visitors made the event. Bio medicated products and digital printing technology products were displayed in the event. The event, supported by the Government of India MSME department was highly advantaging the textile manufacturers.

The major highlights of the event were biological and environmentallyfriendly textile manufacturing. Fabric, cotton textile mill innovation was also showcased to reduce the wastage.

Digital methods of marketing development to textile manufacturers. New trending techniques related to textile and modern clothing habits and large scale manufacturing was the point of attraction during the event. According to the participants, the MSME exhibition event was highly helpful to textile manufacturers, mill owners others in the textile fraternity

Export & Import 104

HO : A-403, Nirav Park, Behind Maruti Apartment, Opp. Kiran Diamond, Umiya Mandir Road, Varachha Road, Surat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 395006 Email : bipinvora1959@gmail.com , voraassociate1@gmail.com Mob:- 8128 12 0707, Office Tel No : 0261-4897444 www.textilevaluechain.com

March 2020

COTTON REPORT

COTTON

M O N T H LY R E P O R T

APRIL - MAY 2020

MARKET HIGHLIGHTS CCI resumes cotton procurement; 25k quintal procured in 10 days The Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) has resumed procurement of the commodity and it has bought around 25,000 quintal of cotton from farmers in the last 10 days, top officials of the corporation said.

CCI chairperson and managing director P Alli Rani said that the quantum of procurement has not been much due to the lockdown period and fear of coronavirus infection among farmers. She said that with 80% of arrivals already in the market, the corporation is buying cotton in a controlled way, and maintaining social distancing. Procurement is taking place but at a very small scale, she added.The cotton season usually lasts till September 30.

Buying has slowed down after March as the peak harvest season is almost over, she said, adding that the third or fourth pickings normally do not yield much. Till date CCI has procured 85 lakh bales.

Most of the cotton in the 2019-20 season has been purchased from Telangana where CCI purchased 82% of the 92% of arrivals in the market, Alli Rani said. In Maharashtra, however, the agency has purchased just 30% of the 82% arrivals in the market, she added. Of the remaining arrivals that is expected to come to the market, around 50% may come to CCI, she said.

The minimum support price for the medium-staple variety of cotton is Rs 5,255 per quintal and that for the long staple one is Rs 5,550 per quintal.

Source: Financial Express, March 9, 2020

With no takers, cotton industry saddled with a mountain of stocks The lockdown impact is seen pushing the cotton consuming sectors — yarn, textiles and garment businesses —into a year of despair with potentially a plenty of stocks and limited or no offtake likely anytime soon.

The entire cotton value-chain has witnessed massive disruptions in ginning & pressing, yarn making, textile and fabric production and garments.

“There is a lot of yarn stock lying with the weaving centres across South and North India. They usually hold at least a month’s stock with them. So they won’t go for buying. Secondly, apparel industry is facing cancellation of orders from export markets. In local markets also, the retail outlets, malls may be full with with their unsold stocks. So they will also not go for buying. This means, it will take at least 3-4 months for all levels of value chain to return to normalcy.”

Ginning sector: On the impact on ginning sector, which is the first level of value addition in cotton chain, Arvind Patel, a ginner from Saurashtra, stated that no ginning units are operating due to lockdown and since the entire pipeline is full, there is less chances of any revival in demand any time soon.

“We are feeling the real slowdown now. There has been no income for the past one month. There are bleak chances of immediate offtake even after the lockdown is lifted because the buyers are full with stocks. For at least three months, we don’t see cotton prices moving up,” said Patel.

Economic crisis: The economic crisis triggered by coronavirus outbreak is feared to stay for many more months even after the lockdown is lifted.

K Selvaraju, Secretary General, The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), said post the lockdown, manufacturing should start across the value-chain and for a smooth trade, it is imperative that entire value-chain has hassle-free logistic movement. Cotton is produced primarily in Gujarat, but yarn hub is in Tamil Nadu, while most of the fabric makers are in Maharashtra and dyeing again happens in Gujarat and Rajasthan, garmenting is concentrated in Tamil Nadu, Mumbai and Delhi. Meanwhile, labour shortage is another issue brewing for all the manufacturing units.

Notably, the cotton sector has raised alarms for financial crunch they may face very soon and have appealed to the Prime Minister’s Office to ask banks for an extended moratorium on loans and interest payments, provide additional working capital without collateral. “We are not asking for any freebies or waivers. What we need is delayed payment and support from the banks. We don’t want to burden the government or banks. But there must be support for us to survive this crisis,” said Selvaraju.

Source: by Rutam Vora, Hindu Business Line Ahmedabad, April 24, 2020

March 2020

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Demand disruptions due to pandemic, amid higher output, may exert pressure on price Cotton has been consistently performing well in India’s domestic market for the past couple of years. The year 2019 has not been an exception.

However, 2020 seems to be bucking the trend as the demand and supply factors have suddenly turned unfavourable.

Global factors: A latest USDA report estimates a 2.6 per cent increase in global output to 121.7 million bales (1 bale = 170 kg), but an 8.1 per cent decrease in global consumption in 2019-20 to 110.6 million bales.

A combination of better crop and reduced off-take, along with an increase in opening stock, elevates ending stock by 10.98 million bales in 2019-20 compared with a year ago.

The expectation of larger output in Brazil, Chad and Tajikistan offsets the lower output from the US and other major producing countries. On the other hand, coronavirus outbreak has led to a reduced consumption forecast from every major country with total global consumption facing one of the largest annual declines on record.

To sum up, Covid-19-led macroeconomic challenges, including lockdowns in major producing and consuming countries, is likely to alter the demand-supply equation going forward.

Domestic factors: The Cotton Association of India (CAI) in its March estimate says India’s total production in the current season (October 2019-September 2020) will be 354.50 lakh bales. With the opening stock of 32 lakh bales and import of 25 lakh bales, total availability will be 411.50 lakh bales.

Against this, domestic consumption is estimated at 331 lakh bales, while export is at 42 lakh bales.

That leaves an estimated closing stock of 38.50 lakhs bales at the end of the current season, which is 20 per cent higher than the opening stock.

With the Covid-19 pandemic intensifying and, as of now, with no clarity on when economic normalcy will return, the projections for both domestic consumption and exports appear a bit too optimistic.

Till March 2020, 283.03 lakh cotton bales have arrived in Indian markets, while the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI), the central agency for procurement, has purchased 85 lakh bales in the current season under the government’s minimum support price operations.

With sluggish demand for cotton yarn, the domestic demand for cotton fibre from yarn manufacturers will be adversely affected. The lockdown and the shortage of workers will add to the problem.

India’s cotton yarn exports to China, the biggest buyer, has been declining due to loss of price competitiveness caused by excessive hikes in domestic support prices. Of late, India has been facing increasing competition from countries such as Vietnam that possesses clear logistical advantage as it is nearer to China, while India’s major yarn production base is Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu.

Shipping cotton yarn from Coimbatore to China takes 21 days vis-a-vis less than seven days from Vietnam. Vietnam also enjoys a 3.5 per cent import duty advantage vis-a-vis India due to the China-ASEAN Free Trade Agreement. The demand from America and Europe for apparels made in China, Bangladesh and India is likely to go down due to depressing effect of Covid-19 that is proving to be more troubling for developed countries. As demand for cotton fibre and yarn is derived, lower demand for apparels will result in lower demand for fibre and yarn.

Outlook: In the short run, none of the demand factors are supportive.

The domestic demand and export demand are likely to be sluggish due to disruptions caused by Covid-19. That will put pressure on cotton prices.

Things can get worse if the lockdown prompted by the pandemic prolongs (and it’s too early to conclude how long it will persists as of now) and major consuming markets head into deeper economic recession, dampening consumer demand.

The writer is co-founder, director and head of agriculture, food and retail at Indonomics Consulting.

Source: by Prerna Sharma Singh, Hindu Business Line, April 12, 2020

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YARN REPORT

YARN EXPORTPLUNGES AS CHINA SHUTS year on year. However, lockdown in Bangladesh also adversely impacted Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shipment to the country.

NITIN MADKAIKAR Textile Beacon

Basic textiles comprising fibres, spun and filament yarns shipment plunged 45% YoY in March 2020, both in terms of US$ and INR worth US$476 million or INR3,447 crore, accounting for about 2.2% of total merchandise exported from India during the month. The sharp decline was mainly due to fall in export to China, which remained under lockdown to contain spread of coronavirus. In India, operations at all sea and air ports were restricted as lockdown was imposed in the last week of the month, to stop spread of coronavirus within the country. Thus, all trade activities came to a grinding halt and local business were on stand-still. Meanwhile, the INR to an US$ weakened to average INR72.37 this month from INR69.17 a year ago.

Cotton Export Cotton fibre shipment shrank more

than 50% in March at 3.9 lakh bales.

This takes the total export to 37.73 lakh bales worth US$1,018 million in the first six months of 2019-20 marketing season. This was 10 lakh bales less that those shipped in the same months of previous season.

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Bangladesh was the largest market for Indian cotton export, followed

by China, Vietnam and Indonesia.

No cotton was shipped to Pakistan this month, which had imported 56 thousand bales in March 2019.

Export price realisation averaged INR117 a kg or US cents 73.44 per pound during March. This was much higher compared to Cotlook A index, the global spot price benchmark for cotton and also higher than Gujarat Shankar-6, the domestic spot price benchmark. During the month, Cotlook averaged US$67.41 per pound and Shankar-6 US cents 65.02 per pound, making Indian cotton uncompetitive in global market.

Yarn Export Spun yarns shipment totaled 86 million kg (down 46% YoY)) worth US$247 million (down 47%) or INR1,788 crore (down 44%). The unit value realization of all types of spun yarn averaged US$2.87 per kg, down US cents 2 from a year ago but up US cents 3 from previous month.

Bangladesh was the largest market for spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value, and growing 7%

Cotton yarn export was 69 million kg worth US$202 million (INR1,462 crore), down 45% from a year ago level. 74 countries imported cotton yarn from India in March at an average price of US$2.94 a kg, up US cents 2 from previous month and also from a year ago.

Bangladesh remained as the top cotton yarn market, as it raised its import 20% by volume and 10% by value this March. During the month, export to Bangladesh was 26 million kg worth US$78 million. China followed Bangladesh with volume and value plunging over 80%, year on year. Vietnam and Portugal were the other major export market for cotton yarn during the month, with former recording 46% increase in value and latter plunging 46%. 13 countries did not import any cotton yarn from India this month as they had imported yarn worth US$17.35 million worth in March 2019. No shipment was reported for Pakistan this month against export of 4.8 million kg worth over US$16 million in March 2019.

However, the lost markets were replaced by 10 others which imported yarn worth about US$2 million. Oman and Hungary were the major new market this March compared to last year. Brazil, Vietnam and USA were among top fastest major importers of cotton yarn in March, while China, Hong Kong and Czech Republic significantly reduced their imports compared to last year.

100% man-made fibre yarns exports dropped 33% in March unable to sustain the growth seen since November due to coronavirus pandemic slowing global economic activity for major part of the month.

Export comprised 1.9 million kg of viscose yarn, 3.8 million kg of

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March 2020

YARN REPORT polyester yarn and 1.5 million kg of acrylic yarn.

Viscose yarn worth US$6.1 million or INR44 crore was exported at an average price of US$3.16 per kg in March to 27 countries. Of these, the major market was Bangladesh worth US$1.9 million, followed distantly by Turkey at US$0.8 million and Belgium US$0.5 million. Iran was the fourth largest importer of viscose yarn during the month.

Polyester spun yarns export was worth US$8.7 million were exported to 46 countries at average unit price of US$2.27 a kg, down US cents 9 from last year, but up US cents 6 from previous month. Turkey continued to be the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Brazil and Mexico.

million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$16.50 million while 1.8 mil-lion kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$4.7 million. Egypt was the largest importers of PC yarn from India followed by Brazil. Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Iran.

Blended spun yarns worth US$26 million were exported in March, less than half of what was exported in March 2019. During the month, 7

All kinds of filament yarns shipment totaled 57 million kg (down 17% YoY), valued at US$83 million (down 27% YoY).

NEWS

RUBY MILLS LAUNCHES H+ TECHNOLOGY FOR PROTECTION AGAINST CORONAVIRUSES ANNOUNCEMENT

technology.*

Ruby Mills Launches H+ Technology For Protection Against Coronaviruses

The H+ Technology active ingredient has also been tested at the Guang Dong Detection Centre of Microbiology, and has been found to be 99% effective against the H1N1 Influenza Virus (Corona Virus & SARS are a part of this family), when used correctly with fabrics. The formulation has proven to retain the efficacy over 30 wash cycles.

Mumbai | May 2020: The coronavirus pandemic has been one of the most perplexing problems in modern times, and one of the critical aspects have been protection from the virus on clothing. As part of its social responsibility, Ruby Mills Limited has been undertaking Research and Development on H+ Technology, Anti-Viral, Anti-Microbial, Anti-fungal protection with trials ranging using fibres to finishes to deliver the efficacy.

The H+ Technology has shown more than 99% microbe reduction on a range of dangerous microbes such as Staph. Aureus, K. Pneumonie, Ps. Aeruginosa and most importantly MRSA. Even after 30 washes, the microbe reduction remains above 99% in an independent lab testing, making it an extremely dependable

March 2020

Viraj Shah, MD, The Ruby Mills, adds, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ruby Mills has always been at the forefront of innovation in fabrics.

In the face of this challenge of the COVID19 outbreak, we are ready to launch H+ Technology based fabric range into the market. This will greatly help the common man stay protected in the times of the pandemic.â&#x20AC;?

As the 103 year young Ruby Mills rolls out this innovation, it is being seen as a significant trigger that would help restart the industry wheels.

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* Third party Test Report available on request

About The Ruby Mills Limited The Ruby Mills Limited, has been Leaders in Fabric Engineering and Interlining since 1917. Owners and creators of iconic fabric brands such as Busy Lizzie and Lusterous Venture, Ruby Mills is one of the most respected players known for fabric quality, consistency and innovation. Ruby Interlining Vertical, developed in joint collaboration with Gygli AG since 1996, Ruby Interlining has a large retail and B2B footprint, with products being benchmarks in the Industry. As a company listed on BSE and NSE, Ruby Mills is playing a significant role in promoting sustainable fabrics developed using regenerated cellulose. Head-quartered in Mumbai with factories in Maharashtra, Ruby Mills has presence in Fabric, Real estate, Interlining and Apparel verticals.

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SURAT REPORT Textile traders demands MSME status and 5 lakhs interest free loan The textile traders of the city demands MSME(Micro, Small & Medium Enterprises) status for overall developement of the industry.

In the video conference held with Commerce Minister Piyush Goyal amid the lockdown, members of CAIT(Confederation of All India Traders) and local textile traders presented various demands. During lockdown, the textile industry has been shattered due to the continuous closure of the industry. The entire business of the season has gone. Liquidity problem will arise at the time of market opening after the lockdown. In such a situation, the industry has appealed to provide debt relief, extra time to pay the installment and interest-free loans of up to 5 lakh to the traders on the condition of paying back in three years.

Federation of Surat Textile Traders’ Association (FOSTTA) has written a letter to Prime Minister Narendra Modi requesting him to assist small traders. Champalal Bothra, General Secretary of FOSTTA said, there is a big problem of working capital in the industry, and the industries is looking for government relief. We have demanded financial support by giving MSME status to traders. There are around 70 thousands textile traders in the city and the daily turnover of textile market is more than 100 crore.

FOSTTA has urged Union ministry of micro, small and medium enterprises (MSME) to provide status of MSME to textile traders in the city.

He said, textile trading business involves 60% job work on cloth, which passes from more than 12 different types of processes. Traders don’t invest in plant and machinery but do job work. Traders are also productive and should be given MSME status. They make and sell textiles at their own expense. Textile

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traders and retailers fall under the norms of MSMEs, but do not get the various benefits declared by the government as they do not have the status of MSMEs. The traders are also manufacturers and that they should be given the status of MSME.

Laxmipati Group starts production of woven PPE suits The synthetic saree manufacturers of the city has started production of PPE suit from woven fabrics in the midst of production of non-woven PPE suit.

Demands for masks, sanitizers, Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) suit has increased amid Coronavirus infection. The renowned Laxmipati Group of the city, has started woven fabrics PPE suit production after obtaining official approval. It has applied three special coating process on woven fabric. Woven suits are being produced by fabricating water repellent, anti micro-bacterial finishes and PU process on the fabric.

PPE suits are being produced by the company in both non-woven and woven fabrics. PPE suits made by woven fabrics can be reused thirty times compared to non-woven. Along with this, shoes of double elasticity are also being made. The company is also manufacturing 90 GSM bag for the disposal of PPE suits. The target is to produce ten thousand suits per day. The company has also started preparations for export as there are good inquiries of PPE suit from abroad.

300 Waterjet machines worth 25 crores imported in the city Amid lockdown, during the last three weeks, more than 300 high-speed powerloom waterjet, airjet machines have been imported into the city.

In January-February, all the industries and offices in China were closed due to Coronavirus. The orders of machinery given by textile entrepreneurs in Surat were stuck. Delivery was not taking place from China. Also,

the shipping bills of the machines whose containers came from China to Indian ports could not received.

Meanwhile, the ports were partially closed following the country’s lockdown in late March.

Now the clearance operation has started at Mumbai port. The machinery importers of Surat have started releasing the machinery from the custom and bringing it to Surat. 250 waterjet and 50 airjet textile machines have been released.

Machines are being delivered to Weavers at Palsana and Keem industrial area. The installation of these machinery will be started after getting permission from the administration.

FIASWI urges to release 75% TUF fund without bank guarantee The Federation of Indian Art Silk Weaving Industries (FIASWI) has appealed to the Textile Commissioner to release of 75 percent of the TUF(Technology Upgradation Fund) subsidy without bank guarantee.

Bharat Gandhi, president of FIASWI said, The Textile Commissionerate is ready to release the fund of inspections conducted till 31 December 2019 on the basis of bank guarantee. At the present time, the entrepreneurs are in need of funds, it is unfair to ask for bank guarantee. The Union Ministry of Finance has released funds to the Ministry of Textiles. A total of 1360 applications have been inspected by the Joint Inspection Team (JIT) of the Textile Commissionerate. We have demanded to release 75 percent funds of this application. Besides this, 50 percent government assistance in staff salaries, relief in electricity rate, increase in subsidy rate in importexport schemes and 3 months relief for industrialists contribution to ESI-PF have been demanded.

The demands of Surat Textile Industry

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March 2020

SURAT REPORT - Exemption from interest by banks on term loans during lockdown period - Guidelines for all banks to facilitate channel finance - Pay to retailers as soon as possible

by PSU

- Loans up to Rs.15 lakhs without security

- Demand for bank guarantee for subsidy should be relieved

- Exemption from fees levied by banks for digital payments

- Traders subsidy is pending, it should be released

- Group medical insurance scheme for employees by the government

- Study report of Surat textile industry

- Guidelines should be issued regarding the salary of employees

- Three months moratorium of EMI to be given by the bank for one year till March 31, 2021

- Full interest waiver and penalty relief in income tax and GST interest rate

- 8 to 12 percent bank interest should be reduced to 4 percent

- Normalize GST and incentives for exports

provide

- Small shopkeepers should get loans without interest to maintain their business

INTERVIEW FAMILY BUSINESS, IS THE CULTURE OF INDIA AND SPAIN INDUSTRY; SIMILARITY MAKES COMFORT Basically, our dimension is not so big like Germany, China, and

MR. JORDI GALTES Ex- President Amec- AMTEX, Spain Association and owner of Gomplast Due to similarity , its very comfortable to do business with India, which is very important market Exclusive Interview taken during ITMA 2019 @ Barcelona, Spain with Mr. Jordi Galtes Ex- President of AmecAMTEX, Spain Association and owner of Gomplast

Spain Association Overview Spain Association have around 70 machine manufacturers with 50% of textile sector. Our members are basically with family owned business with a lot of tradition. The members of the companies right now are from 2nd and 3rd generation that is why we have a family knowledge of the sector.

March 2020

Indian companies but we are focusing on our development in special machines for special kind of fabrics, very specialized machines for small things, we can make machines according to the requirement of the customer so, we are very specialised and this is our contribution to industry.

Sustainability is a clear target of our development. Some of our companies have developed new lines for saving water and saving energy.

Satisfied with Exhibition

ITMA

2019

We are very satisfied with the exhibition because there are a lot of buyers and not only visitors. I have been talking with some of our members some of them are getting contracts so our expectation in the exhibition is positive. Hence we are satisfied.

There was too much noise in the market, we have seen a big amount of projects in past 4-5 years so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true after the period of big expansion due to the noise between China- USA all of that have affected expansion decisions.

Last 12 months the total amount of investment was less than some years before. Exhibition is where we can see several buyers and it is a clear sign that something is going to change in the coming years. More companies are looking for new technology and not the

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capacity of production.

India, an Important Market India has always been a big and Major market for Spanish Textile Machinery Manufacturer. Our culture is similar ie. family owned business , so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy and comfortable to connect with Indians than Chinese. Few of Spanish Manufacturer do have offices in India and Few are expanding in India.

One of our strategy is now basically the association has been helping all the Spanish members to help them to be in the export markets. Spain manufactures are interested to expand in important market because as an association the company has to get it a space between countries like Germany, Italy, etc. and Spain association can solve a lot of problems with the help of our new technology.

We work not only for textiles but also for many other sectors and India is definitely an important market for us. More and more fresh information about the evolution of the Indian market to our members is needed and hence we want to be known association because some members of ours are not big enough and it is difficult for them to arrive in India. As I said our main advantage is the contact between owners and our personal relationship with the owners.When we deal face to face we are more flexible to adapt their needs but then the problem is to be in direct relation and also we need good assistance.

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INTERVIEW

GI WITH SKILLED HUMAN RESOURCES WILL BOOST MORE INNOVATION IN NORTH EASTERN TEXTILES MR. DILIP BAROOAH

want our products to be sold as a commoditized product, governed by technology alone but, one that has conscious value proposition including society and science.

Fabric Plus Pvt. Ltd Fabric Plus Authenticity, innovation, transparency

Inspiration to start business Fabric Plus has been a medium for our team to explore the various aspects of doing business in textiles in a region as unique as the North East of India that is rich with indigenous resources that are yet to be fully explored.

With age-old traditions in spinning, weaving along with sustainability and nature consciousness, the NER has provided us with a rich point of reference for our business modelling.

We have been able to understand the process of Eri Silk cultivation and its processing in great detail.

Constant R &D and innovation with collaborators across the world allow us to diversify our offerings in the market. Furthermore, the potential of socio-economic transformation is immense. Giving back something to the society with the strength of years of experience and exposure by means of creating livelihoods, with indigenous, abundant raw material of eri / muga silk has also been part of the general vision.

Vision of Company We established Fabric Plus in the year 2003 in Mumbai, with the mission of strengthening the handloom craft sector through intermediate technology in silk spinning to create jobs.

Vision: weaving silk, science, society and tradition into sustainability.

Challenges in the journey Challenges are welcomed in all fields of our business. We owe it to them for teaching us the difficult lessons too soon, too fast in certain cases.

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GST Effect But underlying this fact, we believe that as long as our goal is carved in stone, challenges are nothing but welcomed lessons.Still if we are to state the biggest challenge was to run an industry employing rural hands for more than10 years at an absolutely backward zone without any exposureto industrial work culture.

Opportunities Along with the first mover advantage, our team was able to coordinate well and leverage with personal networks.

Good will and a positive brand perception has also helped a great deal.

Innovation strategies Constant changes in market trends and consumer tastes push us towards developing upon our product categories, improving them along with diversifying. For this, we have dedicated more than 5% share for innovation. Innovation is the DNA of our company. As individuals, we understand the significance of this and encourage our team mates to constantly thrive to break through the perceived glass ceilings. Our Innovation reflects not only in our Product, our method is equally first of its kind in the country. There is still no handbook available for manufacturing our product. Through years of trial and error we continue to tune and refine our methods.

Creativity with updated technology Keeping in mind that creativity is not jeopardized by technology. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

Impact of GST happened to be severe as we are still in the middle of the un-organized/semi-organized sector.

However, we are waiting for the transition period to get over. Point to be noted that textiles that we deal in were never had even any kind of sales tax, hence introduction of GST played havoc on a two tier assault to these business.

Challenges Optimization of resources, unorganized raw material market, hoarding by the traders, lesser known product mix, lack of awareness, uncertainty of raw material supply, lesser inclination of the new talents towards silk and textile sector, inadequate amount of R&D by the concerned Govt. agencies etc..

Human Resource for Textiles Sensitize young talents / new minds to join the sector; rest will fall in order.

Ministry should introduce schemes to attract more young talents (skilled in management / technology from premier Institutes) across the value chain. It is rare to find professionally qualified new talents in Textile sector.

Future trends Fast fashion is going to fade over a period of time. Sustainable Textile is the future textiles for the conscious world. Adequate market positioning, blending with other natural / sustainable textiles will replace and revamp the segment in both domestic as well as global market.

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March 2020

INTERVIEW There will be more demand in pure as well as blended fabrics form in the future subject to product innovation, diversification, backward integration.

Supporting local entrepreneurs and artisans is our main motto. Collaborating with international agencies such as World Bank, UN, etc. Providing technical assistance to those in need

Branding Strategies Our branding exercises focus primarily on developing personality/identity, appropriating communications and language, creating awareness in sustainable textiles solutions and acceptability of the same and enhancing increase trust/confidence in our market. We try to maintain a positive feedback loop in order to learn from the data we gather and create.

Importance of Digital Marketing Changes in culture and technology call for human behavior to adapt to the dynamic ecosystem of online engagement. Digital platforms allow us to understand our demographics better, and become more efficient in targeting them. It is as important as it is for the consumer market.

Indian government North East

focus

on

North east is meant to be a gateway to South East Asia, but we are yet to see progress towards this vision.

The focus of the government on NE although delayed is ever more crucial.

We are at the crossroads of a cultural evolution and in order to incorporate this region into mainland India, much work is required.

North East Textile Policy’s Objective

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isto provide Raw material, Seed bank facility, Skill development, Design and Marketing support. Strategies are to develop Clusters of Handloom and Yarn factory, Marketing of new product lines , Exposures visits, Up gradation of Technology introducing modern looms.

Geographical Indication ( GI) GI tags help in promotion of regional cultural heritage. The NE is full of such symbols and can help boost the perception of India, as a whole.

Company Profile of Fabric Plus About us: Fabric Plus began its journey in 2003 as a prime exporter of “Assam Silk”, based out of Mumbai. It was founded by the present M.D. Mr. DilipBarooah - a Textile Technologist turned technocrat engaged in rigorous indulgence for 25 years in textile industries across the globe.

We pioneer in the manufacturing of world-class handloom products and are the largest commercial manufacturers of Eri or Ahimsa Silk in North Eastern India. Our products and services include Eri silk yarns, silk blended yarns and fabrics, made ups for both fashion and home furnishing.

Vision: Prioritizing on issues such increasing women empowerment and fair trade practices has earned the company the recognition of a social initiative.

We believe that we are ‘the vehicles of change’ in terms of both technology and social harmony.

Working towards the socio-economic

development of the region has been a prime objective of Fabric Plus.

Over the years we have helped in the promotion of local resources and crafts, and by doing so touching over 55,000 lives indirectly. By using eri silk and the art of handlooms as a vehicle of socio-cultural change, we believe that economic dynamism can be spurred in the region and livelihoods can be enhanced.

Fabric Plus’s production units are: Spinning The integrated Factory in Chaygaon, Assam, is one of its kind in the country, equipped with Japanese technology (imported from China), for the spinning of silk yarns (blended silk yarns), handlooms (combination of Jacquard, Dobby, Draw-boy, and a dyeing and decatizing plant.

Weaving There are three weaving production centres besides six contract weaving centres, that enable us to produce a wide range of products for fashion and home textiles and customized products.

Apparels and Garmenting With the commencement of their Garment Factory in January 2017, Fabric Plus has expanded its market reach even further. They are fit to serve as a brand manufacturer for garments in India & abroad. Led by a competent production team along with a design department, the factory holds 50,000 pieces production capacity for both knit & woven made-ups annually.

“The Man Who Has Confidence In Himself Gains The Confidence Of Others.”

– Hasidic Proverb www.textilevaluechain.com

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SUSTAINABILITY ALERT THE CHEMICAL DYE INDUSTRY DR MANGESH D TELI Professor from Institute of Chemical Technology Apparel Designing 1.Share your Education Professional Journey:

and

I joined then UDCT,in 1973 as a BSc. Tech student of Textile chemistry,and topped the University three times among all Branches of Chemical Technology at BSc Tech as well as MSc.Tech degrees. I was recipient of a number of scholarships and then was inducted in UDCT,as an Associate Lecturer in 1978. In 1981 I finished my Ph.D.Tech and was absorbed as a Lecturer which is now known as Assistant Professor. I was fortunate to get Associate Professorship in 1986 and I superseded my seniors during that time.Relatively at very young age I became Professor of Fibres Science in 1991 and then in 1996 as Professor of Textile Chemistry. Literally,it means the highest position in academic excellence was achieved by me in the year 1991. It also indicates that since then technically there was no special promotion, but simple increment in salary. And on 31st July 2017 I retired from the now known Institute of Chemical Technology, an independent Deemed University.

So my teaching and research journey has been for 39 years.Till today I have one final Ph.D Student. Till December 2018, ie.1 year after my retirement, I taught in ICT as an honorary Professor. Because salary never motivated me to serve in ICT. Had it been so I would have never remained in this noble Profession, as till 2006,our salaries were very much limited and always invariably my Ph D Tech students drew their first salary at least 50% more than mine,having

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put in more than three decades of excellent service. I love teaching and research as it gives me an opportunity not only to lecture and guide the students,but interact with them and enable them to learn various life lessons from me besides Technology.

Many of my students who are now having top positions in the Industry and academia remember me for moulding their ethical commitment and sensitivity to the social commitment and human values.

Many of the communication skills and gems of knowledge have been shared with them from time to time by quizzing them. Application of those lessons was always tested by me during lecturing and thus it was always a different kind of teacherstudent discourse when I would lecture them.

There was an unwritten principleLaxmanRekha I had drawn for myself, that is when “my today become same as tomorrow”, with no excitement in the job,I will quit my Institute.And that day is still not dawned. I have retired honourably,but have not quit Teaching,nor research as friends always keep seeking my assistance and I too, keep in constant touch with ICT. Fortunately almost every single Faculty of Textile Department has been one time or the other, my student and that gives me an honor and also additional affection to contribute to its success. I always believed that true teachers should empower students and create in them thirst and capacity for application of knowledge,rather than spoon

feeding them with answers. And thus I had to go beyond the curriculum which I used to lecture on and relate so many life experiences to them so that they understand the true meaning of building right attitudes and capacity.

That is why,I always wanted to be abreast of the latest technology,so that I can earn that respect from the students, my peers and from the Industry for my academic excellence.I am happy to say that I have been always up-to-date with my lecturing and research and my output in terms of M Tech and Ph D Students has been a r o u n d 150, research publications around 350 with additional 100 conference presentations at more than 30 Universities in different countries and about 30 edited books of proceedings as well as around 10 Chapters in various books and 5 patents.

Can’t say everything in such a small space, about the journey of life time; But suffice is to say, in general as one progresses from Assistant Professor,to Associate Professor to finally Poressor,his/her initial progress curve gets slowly tapered down losing its steepness slowly. I never allowed this to happen when I became Professor in the early 90s and am happy to say that in the last 5years till I retired, I had 95 publications. So when you have academic and research excellent criteria met, then the outcome is the academic and research community respects you and naturally recognitions from different quarters do come in your way.

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INTERVIEW Simultaneously I was practicing Baha’i Faith since 1971, and having had belief in One God, Oneness of Mankind and Foundation of all religion as one. I followed VasudhaivaKutumbakam philosophy in my life. Hence whoso ever came in contact with me, they attracted to me as an iron piece does to the magnet. We both, myself and my wife in our free time would hold value education workshops and motivation workshops all over the country for PG students, faculty,young parents, directors of various departments and Institutions,college teachers ,etc. I strongly believed that technology needs to go hand in hand with ethics for it to become sustainable and I used this rightful position of mine to draw the attention of my students,faculty as well as in the Industrial seminars, the role of social commitment and ethical values. It is now becoming increasingly evident to see how interdependent we are, in this Covid-19 pandemic situation in the Globe.

So in the end I would say after being Head of Textile Department for 10 years, I moved to become Dean, (HRD & Students Affairs), then member of the Board of Management of ICT, and also being senior most Professor of ICT , I officiated a number of times as the Acting Director/ViceChancellor in the absence of VC. So in short,the Journey at the Institute of Chemical Technology has been really fulfilling and gives me a sense of achievement, that I was able to make my significant contribution in the growth of this Institute of International repute.

2Being an educationist , your journey in industry life !

I opted the teaching job by my choice when there was an option to go to the Industry as I was First Class First in BSc.Tech and at MScTech degrees and had Ph D Tech in the shortest possible time,on Synthetic Fibre Modification. I wanted to shape careers of a number of students rather than enrich myself with

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material means, and thus as a Baha’i I wanted to be that kind of teacher who is an enabler and inspirer. I am happy that students of mine put me in that super category of teacher who inspires them and shows them how to apply and use the knowledge and how to live this life long learning process.

I myself always learn while I teach; it’s a mutual learning process. So even in the Industry my approach has been that of a learner who tries to know every single detail; the one who would ask to repeat the problem and then would offer a solution. In UDCT and now ICT ,there has been freedom for the Faculty to do Industrial consultation/Industrial projects/ special assignments against Technical consultation Fees and 2/3 of the same would go to the faculty whereas 1/3 will be for the Institute. This way many teachers-active researchers and industrial consultants earned the revenue for the Institute sometimes more than the salary they would receive in that year.

Personally I had kept a legitimate balance,so that I had sufficient time for teaching,research as well as for Industry and Textile Association in addition to my Activities relating to motivation and personality development of youths. However, I had a series of the International and National companies on my list to whom I gave my technical inputs at some point of time in different rolesas a full fledged technical consultant or for technical assignment/research project/expert opinion/technical magazine advisory Board etc. To name a few Degussa Hulls(USA),M aiji(Japan),Huntsman International, Clariant, L’oreal, Procter and Gamble, Century Textiles, Century Rayon, Sarex overseas, Resil Chemicals, Elkay Polymers, RossariBiotech,Larsen and Toubro, Ministry of Textiles and many more.

I had been on the Board of Directors of SarexOverseas, and an Independent Director on Siyaram Silk Mills for more than 12 years.

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I am happy that industry too, assisted me while raising the fund for the development of my Textile Department and they were quite happy to offer this lending hand in my efforts to develop this Textile department with which ICT was first established in 1934 as UDCT with the Mill Owners’ initiative. I must thank M/s. Reliance industries and specially Mr.MukeshAmbani and Mr. Nikhil Meswani, RameshjiPodar of Siyaram’s and almost all the speciality and dyestuff industry heads who contributed to our success. Under my Chairmanship we had Annual Conference of Society of Dyers and Colorists in Hotel TajMahal Palace and the title of their annual conference Colour Trends was coined by me.

Even ICT’s conference Tex Summit was initiated by me and we had very successful four Summits of that kind till today. We also had very successful three year International Project with Ethiopian Government and its Textile Body; Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute. Through this project of US$ 2 million, we had an opportunity to do handholding of ETIDI Technicians and give quality service and training on the shop floor in solving Industrial problems in their Textile Mills. We also helped their 15 technicians to do M. Tech degree in ICT and one of them also did Ph. D. under my guidance. Ethiopian Ministers and the Government consider this International project as the most successful projects they have so far run. It also means ICT has 15 Ethipopian alumni living in that country who are our real ambassadors.

Unless we had in the faculty, an element of social responsibility inculcated, we would not have gone for this project,especially when that country had many problems such as Ebola,Emergency, unrest and economic challenges.However, I am happy to say that all of my colleagues supported this move of ours because they strongly believed in their social commitment while applying technological solutions.

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INTERVIEW Ethiopia needed us and we delivered it successfully.

3-As a Mentor, what qualities, capabilities you choose in your Ph. D.students ?

Firstly, ability to put in hard work, reliability,integrity, honesty in doing literature survey and reporting results. Their reliability in doing the work and reporting the proper results matters a lot and thus integrity, loyalty, ethical commitment etc are all also equally important.

Originalthinking,compatibility with other colleagues and attitude of humility and cooperation are the traits one should possess. The killing spirit of getting the work done come what may is required rather than every time giving excuses about how certain things were not possible to do. In the sense,instead of having the habit of why things have not been done,an attitude of reporting how those things can be done is more welcoming. This way they work on problem solving rather than nurturing habit of getting spoon fed.

They should be good communicator, presenters and at the end should develop an ability to undertake independent research. They should also develop the ability to handle juniors with a spirit of accompaniment and encouragement.

4. What kind of changes the chemical and dyes industry has undergone in the recent years?

Indeed with increasing consciousness of sustainability requirements, the chemical and dyes industry has undergone tremendous change.

Right from German ban on Azo dyes which were responsible for release of amines which were potentially carcinogenic,we have come a long way. Whole industry got itself geared to adhere to the requirements of the dyes which were free from such amines,if they were to export their goods to European countries and the USA. Every country which was involved in manufacturing of processed goods had the responsibility to see that they use safe dyes as

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well as chemicals. This naturally was also forced by the demands by the brands and thus eventually society stood benefited,although there was strong criticism that it may be one more tariff barrier by the developed world.

India established a number of Eco-testing laboratories to test such dyes and also the chemicals and auxiliaries which were non-eco friendly. This not only led to establishment of good work practices, but also gave guarantee to the processors that supplied dyes and chemicals adhered to the standards required to be complied with. Replacement of kerosene in pigment printing using synthetic thickeners, use of enzymes in desizing, scouring as well a in certain cases in bleaching, also use of hydrogen peroxide instead of sodium hypochlorite, replacement of penta -chlorophenol as preservatives in gums and many more such substitutes were invented. Some of the finishing chemicals including formaldehyde based finishing agents were also replaced by polycarboxylic acids. In case of reactive dyes, a large amount of salt was required to be used to enhance their exhaustion.

Such dyes were replaced by High Exhaustion and Medium Exhaustion dyes. Not only did they require a very little salt as they contained birecative systems, but also there was a very little unexhausted dye remaining in the effluent and thus load on effluent treatment was much reduced. There were many techniques developed eg. reactive dyes can be exhausted on the cotton fabric by cationization which enhances exhaustion without the use of salt and it is then followed by fixation .

5. Is sustainable fashion/ Sustainability affecting chemical and dyes industry ?

Indeed sustainability is affecting the Chemical and dyes. Let me be frank,if we in reality and true to the spirit of sustainability,wish to carry out our business practices, then all that is required to be done has to be

first committed by the management.

Sustainability needs the organization to be financially sustainable; but that is one of the three elements.

What about social accountability of the business enterprise as well as environmental compliance?

The enterprise has to accordingly follow the practices which will take into consideration workersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and all other stakeholdersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rights and also see that the environment is least harmed.

Hence efforts towards replacement of objectionable chemicals and dyes in the industry as well as conservation of energy, saving of water, application of renewable resources /energy ,etc are being employed. Naturally such demands of sustainability have already set in motion various research and development activities so that newer and safer chemicals ,dyes and technologies are made available and ecofriendly processing of textiles can be made possible. The reuse of energy, zero liquid discharge concepts, etc are the off-shoots of all these demands of sustainability.

Good work practicess at the shop floor,fairwages,avoidanec of child labour, pollution control norms and waste utilisation ,etc are thus given a lot of importance. The stress is not just on consumption,but to look at the whole life cycle of the garment and accordingly sustainable fashion should gear itself.

For example instead of having multiple hues from different classes of dyes to colour multiple fibre components in the same garment,if the fashion designer is conscious of sustainability and its technological requirements, with due interaction with the fibre scientists and textile manufacturing personnel,it is possible the optimum number of fibres in optimus proportion could be made use of.Similarly dyes of only limited number of chemical classes can be used. Insusch cases, the colouration technology becomes relatively simple,effluent treatment becomes easier and subsequent disposal of the garment even after its working life becomes much easier.

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INTERVIEW Sustainable fashion thus has to give rise to the responsible fashion.

Simple example is the use of Natural colours on some natural fibres using non metallicmordants. Once you respect the concept of eco friendliness, you do not necessarily expect too many bright colours except in certain hues as you know there are limitations to produce them. But one is happy and content having a fully eco friendlygarment,rather than the one which is not at all sensitive to the requirements of sustainability. The point I want to make here is,just after this Covid19,the world which thought we can not go slow and fastest moving is the best, has come to the terms that in totality,if we have to be successful,we must slow down and take care of the things which we are missing out and never thought them important.

Today,health,hygiene,cleanliness,s ocial distancing, etc have become important under the compulsion and fright that otherwise we could get infected by Covid19. But post this event,we should at least learn from such incidents and sort out our health systems, medicine availability, and overall hygiene. I feel sorry sometimes when I hear that PPE and Masks are in short supply and medical professionals are also not getting enough of them. Why is it so?

It does not need great rocket science to manufacture,but just because before that it was not considered to be in demand and really a profit spinner,we neglected such manufacturing of such low value items. I think we shall soon have to look into our capability of manufacturing in India-Make in India spirit,so that in emergency we don’t have to depend upon other countries for supply of such items.

6- What are the latest trends in the industry ?

In the research a lot of new trends you will find being introduced and have potential to be developed at the

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shop floor level. Industry wants to respond fashion demands as quickly as possible and thus turn around time of fashion trend is shortening to bear minimum. It demands Right First Time and right every time, preparation without any defects, ability to provide in large orders , best of quality and many a times competitive edge in terms of speciality finishes; such as flame retardant,antibacterial,stainres istant,oilrepellent,wrinkleresistance,d imensionally stable types of finishes, etc. There are still specific applications where additional demands are there from the industry. Bulletproof material,parachuteclothing,high altitude clothings,chemical and heat resistant clothing, etc. Textiles required in the Medical field, such as PPE, gloves, masks, aprons and all of them with specific standards are required.Textiles are required in many technical textile fields such as automobiles, in construction fields,agriculture and horticulture and so on in addition to the apparels and sports wears and home furnishing which is commonly known to all of us.

Newer finishes and chemical formulations based on nanotechnology and biotechnology are being welcomed.

Digital printing, 3 D Printing, waterless dyeing,plasmaapplication,ultrasou ndtechnology,transfer printing ,etc are also looked at as the alternative models to make the processing more sustainable and eco friendly.

So the industry needs such products with durable quality,very good performance properties,processed ecofriendly way and also competitive in price so that they are affordable too.

7-Any update on Carbon Footprints and its relevance to the industry?

Sustainability as I mentioned is going to drive the agenda of future manufacturing and consumption.

The business as usual practices which are characterisedby total disregard to environment and social account-

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ability and which only revolve around profitability are no longer going to be welcomed. The realization of importance of environment protection is at the highest level at present and thus sooner than later ,the Carbon footprints of the products will be looked into by the brands and the consumers. Just as at the present time,we see the ingredients of food items on the packet along with their percentage and calories theyoffer,similarly the need for declaration of Carbon footprints of various products including Textile apparels will be widely advocated.

It is then the true spirit of the Kyoto protocol accepted by more than 150 countries a few decades ago will be revealed. Now there is already talk about what are the Carbon footprints of such products and water footprints;in fact many times debate goes on about 1 kg Cotton garment requiring about 200 litres of water and so on.Same is in terms of CO2 emission. Indeed we are in an alarming situation and we have already consumed more than 30% of earth resources and if we don’t change our methods of manufacturing and styles consumption,we would need another planet by 2050. The life of our future generation will become highly unsustainable. The Present crisis itself gives us how fragile our life has become,although we might call us “mighty and powerful”countries with the highest level of technological development.

Hence,before we are compelled to do it,and at that instance, we may not have sufficient time,it is important that we become conscious of sustainability and ask for the products which are eco friendly and have least Carbon footprints. In fact such products will get more premium in the market and it will prove that marching on the path of sustainability makes true business sense. which will bring in true prosperity providing a win -win situation for all the supply chain partners..

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SUSTAINABLE CHEMICALS AND DENIM, STRANGE !

BUT TRUE WITH RESEARCH ORIENTED AEON comparatively costlier than any material which is readily available in market. So conveying market for sustainable products considering its cost impact and effectiveness is also a challenge.

Opportunities Received We have got good opportunities to work with renowned companies across the country where we have achieved 100 % results.

scale industry there are so many innovations to do, so many challenges to face and AEON as a team enjoys this to do.

AEON not only sale products but also do plan correct chemical inventories for the client, plan with perfect sustainable recipe which give comparatively good results than the existing one. We regularly conduct safety trainings for the workers and assistants who deal with hazardous chemicals. Efforts are taken to make them understand how to handle dangerous chemicals. We do conduct sessions on sustainability, explaining importance on same. AEON has got lot of work appreciation for its different range product compliances and services that provided to our client.

In other words, we understand sustainability was our prime responsibility which leads to AEON creation.

We have also received appreciation for the efforts that we take to develop sustainable products.

Challenges / hardship

Innovation Mindset

Every industry has their own hardships and challenges. Likewise being in to chemical industry we do face challenges. There are various chemicals used in Textile industry such as Bleaching agents, Fixing agents, Softeners, Dyes, finishes, Detergents etc. All these products are different in chemical composition and have their own role to play. Developing sustainable products without disturbing their role is a challenging process.

Textile industry is growing industry day by day. High rate of water consumption, high energy consumption, less production efficiency are the core challenges faced by this industry.

AEON COMMERCIAL INDIA PVT LTD Mr. Saurabh Gupta ( Director) USP : SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS

Inspiration to Start We started our operation in 2005 under proprietorship concern.

Basically, Textile industry is one of the large scale industries and this industry is connected to our day to day life. It is connected to our environment, ultimately to everyone’s life.

Increasing environmental hazards and growing environmental challenges inspired us to do research and development in Textile chemicals.

AEON wants to serve it’s best to help and reduce environmental hazardous caused by textile growing sectors.

It has found that there is need to motivate and make understand textile sectors the importance of sustainability. AEON fulfills this by educating various companies about the same and intends to do more and more with growing time.

As I already said being in such large

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Also sustainable raw materials are

Innovations are done to develop sustainable products to overcome above challenges and serve better environmental conditions.

Also, Fashion trends never remains same it keeps on changing. There are new Sop’s developed in industries with regards to its process, fashion

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INTERVIEW etc.

We need to create our own innovations to gear up with these upcoming changes in the industry.

Technical Textile again is one of the vast sectors in textile which is taking boom in the industry due to its wide applications in all areas. So considering such vast areas in industry there are R&D which are done continuously with respect to product endues applications. Strategies are always developed to create new product rage without disturbing its key role in application.

We believe innovation to be one of our key for success and keep us live.

Overall 10% is kept for innovation.

Using upgraded Technology is core in our DNA Technological up gradation is one very important factor in industry. It helps us to be effective and efficient both.

We incorporate upcoming textile standards, precision in lab equipments, automating standard back end processes with technologies including machinery which minimize the need of human interventions.

Industry Challenge The main environmental issues in Textile industry is the discharge of harmful chemicals into the environment. High consumption of Water, increased energy consumption, solid waste, Air pollution, odour formations are also other issues which cannot be neglected.

It includes a series of processes which are being carried out in industry with thousands of different harmful chemicals, tons of water and considerable amount of energy used to treat the fibers till it reaches the final textile product.

In my view, Solution to above faced problem in textile industry can be solved only with the scope of sustainability. In order to create a sustainable textile, the main change factors

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have been linked to eco-materials which results in to reusing/recycling, minimum usage of energy, water and chemicals can be achieved. Reduction of waste, reduce resource consumption, Reuse, Product modifications where possible (Bio recipes), Equipment modifications (optimizing tank volumes etc) this helps to reduce the harsh impact of textile processes on environment.

SUSTAINABILITY IS IN OUR DNA AEON works on 03 pillars of sustainability i.e. Environment, Economic, and Social.

We work hand in hand with sustainability. It has always been our top priority. We are GOTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S certified, also registered our products on ZDHC portal.

We formulate eco chemicals as per our customer requirements.

We make our own bio recipeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, do comparative study of raw material with the existing chemicals used in any organization against AEON chemicals where AEON chemicals have always been result oriented, it turned out with less amount of water consumption, energy consumption, comparatively less harmful chemicals . This turns the whole process to be ecological along with economical. YES, we have also worked on economical aspects so that more and more number of organizations can come forward and join with us towards path of sustainability. Reduction in emission of carbon dioxide is also one of the important aspects. As said sustainability is in our DNA, We had, are and will always work with sustainable products.

AEON also takes efforts to guide textile industries with safety of chemicals. Various sessions are taken forward to make workers understand their safety along with chemicals.

We as a chemical manufacturing company had provided protective personal equipments to all workers and make them understand its importance. We understand this to be our responsibility. So sustainabil-

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ity which includes environment care, people care and economical care is practiced. This has become need to save our planet and all industrialists shall consider this to be their prime responsibility. AEON join hands and welcomes industrialists to be a part of sustainable products with us.

Future of Chemical Industry The Indian chemical industry is among the most diversified industrial sector. It is among the established traditional sectors that play integral role in countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economic development. It is one of the oldest industries in India and has made immense contribution to industrial development. This industry comprises of both small scale and large units producing thousand of wide range of products for various sectors.

The chemical industry serves the need of Textile sectors not only this but it serves for sectors like leather, plastics, paper, food stuffs etc. so the future scenario for this industry will be very demanding.

Denim Future

Market

Growth

and

There is increasing demand of Denim in textile industry because of its comfort fabric, style variants, low pricing, inclusive sizes. Denim never went out of fashion. Denim are also driving innovations on washes, colors, fits and even vintage design and styles. These innovations are driving demand in the population which makes this sector to be one of the highest revenue generators.

Sustainable denim can be manufactured by reducing use of water consumption, energy consumption, chemicals which will reduce environmental impact. High demand of Denim can be fulfilled by sustainable way of denim production which includes avoiding use of harmful pesticides during cotton cultivation, water management, avoid use of harmful dyes, safe working environment in denim mills, generating awareness among the workers with

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INTERVIEW regards to safety of chemicals.

Future Vision

AEON contributes to produce sustainable jeans with its innovative products such as Sevgi, Voelen, Pekin, Amezo, Doux, Brumo etc.

We are complete chemical solution provider for textile industry. We see our company to be leader in Textile chemicals. As you all know Sustainability has now become the need and this need is going to be increased as time moves on so we are looking forward to expand our operations and open new locations as AEON understands this need of growing sustainable business and wants to serve best to the customer requirement. Customer satisfaction is always our first priority so in coming future also this is going to be our common goal.

This helps decrease in water consumption, reduces contamination of water, and decreases health hazardous, reduction in dyeing time.

In coming future, there will be much high demand of Denim’s and we invite you to pledge with us for sustainable Denim’s.

Textile Machinery Industry Views As we all know machinery is heart of any production process. The Industrial revolution was the transition period to new manufacturing process in all industrial sectors. During this transition, hand production methods changed to machines and chemical manufacturing and iron production process were introduced. Technology developed day by day and now we are standing in this 21st century with innovations that can be like blessing to the industry with regards to sustainable process.

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AEON aims to reach all textile chemical production houses with sustainable products and give them green solution in ongoing process which will help to save our environment and future both.

Digital Marketing Importance Action plan that organizations use to differentiate their products with the competitor products is called branding.

There are various branding strategies in India and internationally worldwide, this depends on type of target customer, type of products, Process type, organization values, current market etc.

Branding is important as customer knows your product in details.It is fine thread between the organization and the customer.

In today’s digital world, digital marketing is also equivalently important.

It is canopy for marketing. It is all about marketing products and services through digital technologies, overall the internet, digital marketing involves all marketing weapon that requires an electronic device or the internet.

It helps to reach maximum customers, helps save time and money as well; you can track responses of your client easily, opens better growth options, easy customer problem solving, cost effective. So, digital marketing plays vital role in today’s time.

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INTERVIEW 100% NATURAL ORIGIN

PRESENTING RAYSIL 100% NATURAL AND UNMATCHED IN ELEGANCE. Made from premium, imported wood pulp that gives a feather-light feel, vivid colours and a natural lustre for new age royalty.

Contact: Mumbai: 022-66917930/31 Surat: 0261-4003361/62/66 Delhi: 011-41306630/31

VISCOSE FILAMENT YARNS FROM INDIAN RAYON

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raysil@adityabirla.com www.adityabirla.com www.adityabirlachemicals.com

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