COVER MAY 2019.ai 1 19-05-2019 22:05:50
www.textilevaluechain.com
MAY 2019
Volume 7
Interviews: Rajeev Jain,RSWM Ltd. C.Kamatchi Sundaram, Voltas Ltd. P.K. Singh, Luwa India Market Report : Cotton, Yarn, Surat, Dystuff, Fabric Steamer ITMA Innovations : DILO, SUPERBA, MAAG, Heberlein Rabatex, Unitech , Sonoco, Baldwin VDMA Members Registered with Registrar of Newspapers under | RNI NO: MAHENG/2012/43707 Postal Registration No. MNE/346/2018-20 published on 5th of every month, TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN posted at Mumbai, Patrika Channel Sorting Office,Pantnagar, Ghatkopar-400075, posting date 18/19 of month | Pages 60
Issue 5
From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment with the product brands Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven is the world market leader for filament spinning systems, texturing machines and BCF carpet yarn, staple fiber spinning as well as nonwovens solutions. For further information visit us at www.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers Welcome to ITMA Barcelona, Spain, June 20-26, 2019 (hall H7/booth A101). Spinning
Creeling
Drying
Cutting
Continuous Polycondensation Transfer Line
Gear Metering Pumps
Drawing/Cooling
Baling
Spinning/ Quenching Take-up/Winding
Doffing Texturing
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
3
4
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
Visit us at ITMA 2019 . Stall No.H7 - C125 Barcelona, Spain 20 - 26, June 2019
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
5
SKBS SHREE BALAJI SYNFABS
MR.SURESH SARAF
MR. NAYAN SARAF
Contact: Suresh Saraf+91 9322 50 4449 / +91 9322 10 4449 | Nayan Saraf - +91 7498 88 1400 Office Landline - 91-22-6002 0119 / 9699 25 8834 Email : sureshsaraf2000@yahoo.co.in | info@shreebalajisynfabs.com sureshsaraf@shreebalajisynfabs.com | Website : www.shreebalajisynfabs.com
6 46
www.textilevaluechain.com
Address: Room No.-17, Ground Floor, 342 Kalbadevi Road, Mumbai- 400002 www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019 March 2018
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
7
8
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
B-Tex Auto-Cut-Pack System • Fabric Inspection cum Mapping Machine • International 4 Point Defect Logging Software (IGS) • Automatic Cut-Plan generation with Optimisation option
Fabric Mapping Machine
• Fully Automatic fabric Rolling, Cutting & Packing Machine Generates Reports and Barcode for Logistics
_ -... _- ....... _ .......
,
- , . ,.... ,... ............. . .....,..... ", . .. ..
I• •• • I.... '
,. . . ,. . .
_"""""
u
" ...
••
,
Benefits • Saves 3-4% fabric due to Cut-Plan Optimisation • Increases production by 15-20%
Inspection & Grading Software
• Saves 30% manpower & space • Auto-generates samples & folders for grouping & shade matching • Increases QC by delivering reports as per defects, dept., shift, etc.. • Defect logging on touchscreen reduces manual errors. • 5 years warranty
Auto-Cut-Pack Machine
6) B·TEX TEXTILE mACHinERY
Clientele:
<;> 304, Vikas Centre, Dr. C. G. Road, Chembur,
® GMF
Mumbai 400 074. Maharashtra . INDIA
premIer
G M fabrics
~.~
JINDAL
~ H~ ~
Raymona
Vardhman
t +91-22-25200254 I +91-9820474553
I
9 sales@btexindia.com I info@btexindia.com W www.btexindia.com e
TEXTILES CorlonloOotMng
'ECOR"
cO
SRF
NVInO
Himatsingka
10
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
EDITORIAL TEAM Editor and Publisher Chief Editor Graphic Designer Associate Editor
: Ms. Jigna Shah : Mr. Bhavesh Thakar : Mr. Anant A. Jogale : Mr. Swaminathan
INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda : City Editor - Vyapar ( Jan mabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel : President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Mr. Shailendra Pandey : VP (Head – Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma : GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group) Mr. Avinash Mayekar : Consulting Editor Dr. N.N. Mahapatra : Business Head (DYES), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd. Mr. R.D. Udeshi : President- Polyester Chain, Reliance Industries Ltd. EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor : HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia : Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli : Professor, Dean ICT Mr. R.M. Shankar : Asst. Director, ATIRA
CONTENT
All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.
Registered Office Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai 400075. Maharashtra, INDIA. Tel : +91-22-21026386 | Cell: +91-9769442239 Email: info@textilevaluechain.com | tvcmedia2012@gmail.com Web: www.textilevaluechain.com Owner, Publisher, Printer and Editor Ms. Jigna Shah Printed and Processed by her at, Impression Graphics, Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, Maharashtra, India.
May 2019
ARTICLES
EVENT REPORT
13- Sustainable Fiber
34- Cotton Conclave 2019 @ Mumbai, INDIA
Clothing from Ramie Fibre by Dr. N.N. Mahapatra
36- NICTT 2019 @ Coimbatore, INDIA
16- Technical Textile
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS
How can non-woven industry work to enhance sustainability? by Jurgen Eizinger, Lenzing AG
40- Heberlein
18- Technical Article
44- Dilo Group
Problems and remedies in winding of POY Packages by DKTE Professors
45- Superba
MARKET REPORT
47- Rabatex
20- India’s fast changing cotton trade dynamics by MCX India
48- Unitech Texmech
21- YARN REPORT by Textile Beacon
49- Sonoco Alcore
23- Global Textile Dyestuff by Transparency Market Research
49- Baldwin
24- Fabric Steamer insight by Transparency Market Research
50- SHOW CALENDAR
41- VDMA Members Interview
46- Maag Brothers
25- Surat Report
Advertiser Index
NEWS 17- Italian Denim Brand 26- ITMA 2019 & Italian Textile Machinery 27- ITME Africa 2020 & US- Turkey 28- USA –China , Bangladesh – India 33- Texprocil & INDIA ITME 2020
INTERVIEWS
Back Page: Raymond
Page 19: Tomsic
Back Inside: Rimtex
Page 30: Vora Associates
Front Inside: The Axis
Page 31: Retech
Page 3: Oerlikon
Page 51: Trutzschler
Page 4: Sanjay Plastics
Page 52: Yarn Expo- Surat
Page 5: LRT
Page 53: Ardex Endura
Page 6: SKBS
Page 54: DN Associates
29- Rajeev Jain, Business Head Operation , RSWM Ltd.
Page 7: World Traders
Page 55: Colorjet
30- C. Kamatchi Sundaram & Team, VOLTAS Ltd.
Page 8: TEXFAIR 2019
Page 56: ITMACH India
31- P.K. Singh, President, LUWA India
Page 9: BTEX
Page 57: TEXFAB
Page 10: ITMA 2019
Page 58: SAVIO
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
11
EDITORTIAL INDIAN SME EXPECTS NEW GOVERNMENT TO MAKE A GOOD GOVERNANCE WITH STRATEGIC TRADE POLICY
‘‘
Research is formalized curiosity. It is poking and prying with a purpose. - Zora Neale Hurston
’’
India’s most awaited new government will be in place soon and hope new government will have fresh ideas to revive our industry. Textile Central policy is the next most awaited by industry. New investments are on hold due to high volatility in the Indian political environment. Entire world is looking forward to this change. Industry expects ease of business, stable business environment, technology benefits, tax structure, branding benefits, research benefits, entire value chain investment benefits to be global competitive in this new textile policy. Middle class tax payers who are heart of economy and responsible expect to have ease in life by good tax structure, job opportunities, ease of business for startups etc. Middle Class has daily struggle to earn money with dignity and avoid free favor of government. In Business, 90% of Textile industry consisting of this SME segment, who want to have benefits in their business by the new policy, but lack of clarity, understanding, deprive them to be competitive. Trade bilateral treaty with other countries are beneficial to India, but our neighboring countries with large scale production, good tariff benefits, skills, labor etc made them ahead of us in our industry. As Textile and Garment industry do not have much investment, no entry barrier, labor intensive, low margin, not high skills requirement in running industry etc. This has made not only internal competition high but also at global level. Developing country with good tax benefits got the advantage to compete with India and others. India being free nation with creative entrepreneur mindset culture, large scale like China never thought of cheap labor. Tax benefits in Bangladesh made country production competitive. Now India only has advantage of being Value added / Innovative products / services further to achieve global competitiveness in which research and development is the key factor. If India will not focus on research now, then it will be really a serious threat in global market. India will only survive and compete in world by being Innovative. All Textile industry contributors need to invest in research and think out of the box. If not now, it will be never! Research and Innovation is NEED of Economy! Visit TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN @ ITMA 2019,
Ms. Jigna Shah
Hall No. 8.1 , Stall No. D230
Editor and Publisher
12
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
SUSTAINABLE FIBER
CLOTHING FROM RAMIE FIBRE Innovation sees no limit and Indian consumers can expect something big coming up in the textile industry like fabrics and textiles woven from fine quality Ramie fiber. Ramie (pronounced Ray-me) is one of the oldest vegetable fibers and has been used for thousands of years. Ramie fibre is one of the oldest textile fibres .it was used in mummy cloths in Egypt during the period 5000 to 3000 BC and has been grown in China for many centuries. In the study of the “Lazarus” mummy, three types of textiles were found. The outermost cloth was heavy and coarsely woven; the innermost was the lightest and most tightly woven. The outer cloth appeared to be ramie (which Wiseman notes “contains non-fibrous material that is toxic to bacteria and fungi”—in other words, an ideal textile for mummy making). Farmers in ancient China are also known to have used the fiber to weave clothing. Ramie was used to produce an open weave fabric called mechera, used for shirts and dressing gowns suitable for warm climates. The French painter Raoul Dufy designed in the early 20th century patterns for prints on mechera used by the French shirtmaker Charvet. Brazil began production in the late 1930s with production peaking in 1971. Since then, production has steadily declined as a result of competition with alternative crops, such as soybeans and the important synthetic fibres.
Production of Ramie FibreRamie (Boehmeria nivea), commonly known as China grass, white ramie, green ramie and rhea, is one of the group referred to as the bast fiber crops. The ramie plant is a hardy perennial belonging to the Urticaceae or Nettle family, which can be harvested up to 6 times a year. It produces a large number of unbranched stems from underground rhizomes and has a crop life from 6 to 20 years. The fibers need chemical treatment to remove the gums and pectins found in the bark. Ramie is one of the oldest fibre crops, having been used for at least six thousand years, and is principally used for fabric production. It is a bast fibre, and the part used is the bark (phloem) of the vegetative stalks. Ramie is normally harvested two to three times a year but under good growing conditions can be harvested up to six times per year.[2] Unlike other bast crops, ramie requires chemical processing to de-gum the fibre. The process of transforming the ramie fibers into fabric is similar to the process used for manufacturing linen from flax. The true ramie or ‘China Grass’ is also known as ‘white ramie’ and is the Chinese cultivated plant. It has large heart shaped, crenate leaves covered on the underside with white hairs that give it a silvery appearance. Boehmeria nivea var. tenacissima is believed to have originated in the Malay Peninusula and is known as ‘green ramie’ or ‘rhea’. Green
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
ramie has smaller leaves than true ramie and is better suited to tropical climates. Extraction of the fiber occurs in three stages. • Firstly, the cortex or bark is removed, either by hand or machine, in a process called de-cortication. • The second stage involves scraping the cortex to remove most of the outer bark, the parenchyma in the bast layer and some of the gums and pectins. • The third stage involves washing, drying and de-gumming of the residual cortex material to extract the spinnable fiber. Details of the de-gumming processes tend to be regarded as commercial-in-confidence information . Harvesting is done just before or soon after the beginning of flowering. It is done at this time because at this stage there is a decline in plant growth and the maximum fibre content is achieved.[2] Stems are harvested by either cutting just above the lateral roots or else bending the stem. This will enable the core to be broken and the cortex can be stripped from the plant in situ. After harvesting, stems are decorticated while the plants are fresh. If this is not done while the plants are still fresh the plants will dry out and the bark will be hard to remove. The bark ribbon is then dried as quickly as possible. This will prevent bacteria and fungi from attacking it. The dry weight of harvested stem from crops ranges from 3.4 to 4.5 t/ha/year, so a 4.5 ton crop yields 1,600 kg/ha/ year of dry non-de-gummed fibre. The weight loss during de-gumming can be up to 25% giving a yield of degummed fibre of about 1,200 kg/ha/year. The extraction of the fibre occurs in three stages. First the cortex or bark is removed; this can be done by hand or by machine. This process is called de-cortication. Second the cortex is scraped to remove most of the outer bark, the parenchyma in the bast layer and some of the gums and pectins. Finally the residual cortex material is washed, dried, and de-gummed to extract the spinnable fibre. The stems need retting ,which is controlled rolling by soaking in water and allowing bacteria to attack the stems . The fibres are then separated mechanically by scutching ( beating ).The fibres are bundles of many overlapping cellulosic cells and are much , stiffer and longer than cotton. The cells adhere by means of lignin cements. When combed Ramie is half the density of Linen , but much stronger , coarser , and more absorbent. It is reported to have a tensile strength eight times that of cotton and seven times greater than silk. The stems of Ramie grow to a height of 1 to 2.5 meters. It has a permanent
13
SUSTAINABLE FIBER luster and good affinity for dyes , it is affected little by moisture. China leads in the production of ramie and exports mainly to Japan and Europe. Other producers include Japan, Taiwan, the Philippines, and Brazil.[7] Only a small percentage of the ramie produced is available on the international market. Japan, Germany, France and the UK are the main importers, the remaining supply is used domestically.[2] Properties of Ramie Fibre - This is a natural woody fibre resembling flax . it is known as Rhea and China grass. It is stiff,more brittle than linen. It is highly lustrous and almost silk like appearance It is obtained from a tall shrub grown in South East Asia , China , Japan and Southern Europe. It can be bleached to extreme whiteness. The strength of Ramie is excellent and varies from 5.3 to 7.4 grams per denier.Elastic recovery is low and Elongation is poor. This is also used in making coarse grass cloth and for rope, twine,nets and clothing. Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibres. It exhibits even greater strength when wet. Ramie fibre is known especially for its ability to hold shape, reduce wrinkling, and introduce a silky lustre to the fabric appearance. It is not as durable as other fibres, and so is usually used as a blend with other fibres such as cotton or wool. It is similar to flax in absorbency, density and microscopic appearance. However it will not dye as well as cotton. Because of its high molecular crystallinity, ramie is stiff and brittle and will break if folded repeatedly in the same place; it lacks resiliency and is low in elasticity and elongation potential. Ramie fiber is one of the premium vegetable fibers. The ultimate fibers are exceptionally long and are claimed to be the longest of vegetable origin, with one report claiming the fibers range up to 580 mm, averaging about 125 mm. Ramie fiber is very durable, is pure white in colour and has a silky luster. For the hand spinner, ramie is treated similar to flax in that it can be either wet or dry spun. A wet spun yarn will produce a smooth softer yarn with high luster, while a dry spun yarn will feel hairier, have less luster and a harsher handle. It can readily be blended with other fibers such as wool or silk, although the length of ramie can sometimes cause difficulties.
Advantages of Ramie • Resistant to bacteria, mildew, alkalis, rotting, light and insect attack.
• Withstands high water temperatures during laundering. • Smooth lustrous appearance improves with washing. • Keeps its shape and does not shrink. • Strong and durable (It is reported to have a tensile strength eight times that of cotton and seven times greater than silk). • Can be bleached.
Disadvantages of Ramie • Low in elasticity. • Lacks resiliency. • Low abrasion resistance. • Wrinkles easily. • Stiff and brittle. • Necessary de-gumming process. • High cost (due to high labour requirement in production, harvesting and decortication.) The main producers of ramie today are China, Brazil, Philippines, India, South Korea and Thailand. Only a small percentage of the ramie produced is available on the international market. Japan, Germany, France and the UK are the main importers, the remaining supply is used domestically (in the country in which it is produced).
Blending of Ramie fibre Ramie is most often blended (common is 55% ramie/45% cotton) with other fibres for its unique strength and absorbency, lustre and dye-affinity. For example, • Blended with cotton, results in increased lustre, strength and colour. • Blended with wool, results in lightness and minimises shrinkage.
Physical and chemical properties of ramie fiber Cellulose (wt%)
Lignin (wt%)
68.6 - 76.2
0.6 - 0.7
Pectin (wt%)
Wax (wt%)
1.9
0.3
13.1 - 16.7
Fiber diameter (mm)
0.034
• Dyes fairly easy.
Fracture load (N)
0.467
• Increases in strength when wet.
14
Microfibrillar angle (°) 7.5
Moisture content Density (mg/ (wt%) 8.0 m3) 1.50 Mechanical properties of untreated ramie fibers
• Extremely absorbent (this makes it comfortable to wear) • Natural stain resistance.
Hemicellulose (wt%)
Tensile strength (MPa)
560
Fracture strain (%)
0.025
Chemical processing of
Ramie fibre.-
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
SUSTAINABLE FIBER Chemically ramie is classified as a cellulose fibre, just as cotton, linen, and rayon.
Pretreatment It is done as follows. 1. Ramie fibre is loaded into the fibre carrier. 2. First a low foaming wetting agent and detergent with emulsifying , dispersing and extractive action .( 1 gpl ) was added in the m/c and circulated for 5 mins at room temperature.. 3. Raise temperature to 60 deg c then add Caustic Soda Flakes ( 3 gpl ) , Hydrogen Peroxide ( 50 % ) –2 gpl and a silicate free stabilizer for alkaline peroxide bleaching. Run for 10 mins. 4. Then raise temperature to 95 deg c at the rate 2 deg per min . run at 95 deg for 30-45 mins. 5. Then drain. 6. Hot wash at 95 deg c. for 10 mins. 7. Cold wash. 8. Neutralize with Enzyme based Peroxide Killer ( 0.5 gpl) . Run at 45 deg c for 25 mins. 9. Now Ramie Fibre is ready for dyeing. Ramie fibre is dyed using Reactive and Vat dyes. As per requirement Ramie fibre is dyed using ME dyes at 60 deg c or HE dyes at 80 deg c. Where high fastness is required in that case Vat dyes are used. After Treatment process for Ramie fibre is done as follows. 1. After dyeing give overflow rinse . 2. Hot wash at 95 deg c for 10 mins. 3. Neutralization for certain class of dyes ( bi-functional ). 4. Soaping with 1-2 gpl ( two soaping for dark shades ). 5. Softening with Cationic softener 2 % ( OWF ) at room temperature. Bleaching of Ramie fibre Ramie fibre is loaded in the fibre carrier. 1;8.
M;L ratio is
Following chemicals are added into the m/c via side tank at room temperature. 1. De foamer - 0.3 gpl. 2. Wetting agent - 1 gpl. 3. Peroxide stabilizer – 0.75 gpl. 4.Hydrogen Peroxide ( 50 %)- 10 gpl. Then raise temperature to 60 deg c at the rate 3 deg per min. run for 10 mins at 60 deg c. then add NaoH ( 50 % ) - 4gpl. Again run for 5 mins at 60 deg c then add Optical Brightening Agent - 0.3 % Raise temperature to 95 deg c at the rate of 3 deg per minute.. run for 60 mins at 95 deg c . then cool down to 80 deg c and drain. Then hot wash at 80 deg c for 10 mins. Followed by cold wash at 50 deg c the softening is done by using Cationic
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
softener - 2 % on weight of material. It is a special cationic softener Then unload. Hydroextract and dry it in dryer.
Uses of Ramie fibresThe fiber is very fine like silk, and being naturally white in colour does not need.Chemically ramie is classified as a cellulose fiber, just as cotton, linen, and rayon. The leading global producers of ramie are China, Taiwan, Korea, the Philippines and Brazil. Ramie is often blended with cotton to make woven and knit fabrics that resemble fine linen to coarse canvas. Ramie is commonly used in clothing, tablecloths, napkins and handkerchiefs. It is often blended with cotton in knit sweaters. Outside the clothing industry, ramie is used in fish nets, canvas, upholstery fabrics, straw hats and fire hoses. Despite its strength, ramie has had limited acceptance for textile use. The fibre’s extraction and cleaning are expensive, chiefly because of the several steps—involving scraping, pounding, heating, washing, or exposure to chemicals. Some or all are needed to separate the raw fibre from the adhesive gums or resins in which it is ensheathed. Spinning the fibre is made difficult by its brittle quality and low elasticity; and weaving is complicated by the hairy surface of the yarn, resulting from lack of cohesion between the fibres. The greater utilization of ramie depends upon the development of improved processing methods. Ramie is used to make such products as industrial sewing thread, packing materials, fishing nets, and filter cloths. It is also made into fabrics for household furnishings (upholstery, canvas) and clothing, frequently in blends with other textile fibres (for instance when used in admixture with wool, shrinkage is reported to be greatly reduced when compared with pure wool.) Shorter fibres and waste are used in paper manufacture. For the 2010 Prius, Toyota will begin using a new range of plant-derived ecological bioplastics made from the cellulose in wood or grass instead of petroleum. One of the two principal crops used is ramie. Ramie is also used as an ornamental plant in eastern Asia.
Care Recommendations for Ramie FabricsCare procedures prescribed on the care labels of ramie products vary. Items of 100 percent ramie should not require special care. Generally, they may be laundered or dry-cleaned depending on individual dyes, finishes and design applications. High temperatures will not harm the fiber itself, making washing in hot water and ironing at high settings possible; however, color retention, shrinkage control or properties of blended fibers may dictate lower temperatures. Recent laboratory testing done has led to the conclusion that the best performance results when gentler or more special handling is used in care. For example, fabrics retained the best color and shape with
15
SUSTAINABLE FIBER the most wrinkle-free appearance when they were drycleaned. Machine washing in cold water on gentle cycle with line drying was better than machine washing in warm water with tumble drying on permanent press cool down cycle. Hand washing in cool water with flat drying is the most strongly recommended home care method for both knits and woven fabrics. The consumer who knows the strengths and limitations of the fiber can receive maximum service and enjoyment from ramie products. When storing ramie or ramie blends, lay them flat. Ramie fibers are brittle and tend to break. Avoid folding the garment or pressing sharp creases in woven fabrics.
DR. N.N.MAHAPATRA BUSINESS HEAD (DYES) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.
TECHNICAL TEXTILE
HOW CAN THE NONWOVEN INDUSTRY WORK TO ENHANCE SUSTAINABILITY? There has been substantial global growth in the demand for sustainable nonwoven products over the past decade. Biodegradability has gradually shifted to the forefront of the conversation around nonwoven products, with a spike in interest around products such as cleaning wipes, makeup removal pads, facial masks, baby wipes and many more. This comes as research conducted by Smithers Pira revealed that the global consumption of all nonwovens in 2017 was 10.1 million tonnes, yet global consumption of sustainable nonwovens in the same year only amounted to 3.7 million tonnes, a figure that certainly needs addressing and drive further awareness. These figures clearly outline the need for improvement in sustainability terms of biodegradability, from both manufacturers and consumers. The need for improvement comes from concerns over the environmental impact of nonwoven products, in which disposability, sewer blockages, ecological footprint, plastic pollution, and climate change are named the top 5 environmental issues facing the nonwoven industry globally according to a recent Lenzing consumer survey. When faced with such a challenging environment, it is important to address how companies should act, to
16
ensure that not only are their products are up to standard, but that they help combat environmental issues while enhancing sustainability.
Use of sustainable raw materials and eco-responsible processes One of the nonwoven industry’s main priorities has been the adoption of sustainable raw materials which can be produced in ecologically responsible ways. Sustainable production options are already available and have been included in some companies’ production processes. These options rely on the use of renewable raw materials such as wood, cotton and other natural cellulosic fibers. Industry manufacturers are making use of technological innovation such as Lenzing’s Eco Disperse technology, when producing fibers for flushable moist toilet tissues. When coupled with Eco Disperse technology, raw materials with botanic origin and sustainable production process can be used to produce flushable nonwoven fabrics that can quickly disintegrate after flushing and are fully biodegradable after use. One of the next goals the nonwoven industry hopes to achieve is to set up a scalable production of this process, ensuring a wide adoption of biodegradable, nonwoven products.
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
TECHNICAL TEXTILE Enhancing raw material transparency Enhancing raw material transparency is inevitable for the industry ecosystem, especially as consumers are now becoming more mindful of the source of raw materials, production processes and the social and environmental impacts created by those processes. Although consumers are becoming more environmentally conscious in their choices, a recent Lenzing consumer survey revealed that they still had limited knowledge around the composition of nonwoven products they used. Despite most nonwoven products being made with plastic materials such as polyester or polypropylene, results indicated that only one out of ten survey participants of the Lenzing consumer survey is aware of that. . At the same time, most of the respondents stated that the inclusion of biodegradability on product packaging was an extremely attractive factor in nonwoven products. Under such circumstances, disclosing essential information on the product packaging is crucial to addressing consumers interest around sustainable products. In addition to the efforts of manufacturers, nonwoven industry bodies, INDA and EDANA, have tightened their 4th edition of guideline for assessing the flushability of disposable nonwoven products in May 2018. Their guidelines now require wipe manufacturers to only label products as “flushable” after evaluating whether products can be flushed into the wastewater stream and passing seven qualified tests. Adopting and implementing stringent guidelines will lead to enhanced supply-chain transparency, which in turn will help not only educate but also instill confidence in the consumer when they purchase sustainable nonwoven products.
Ongoing innovation on product packaging A key aspect of enhancing sustainability is to engage in innovation in terms of product packaging. Despite a global shift towards sustainability, the majority of nonwoven product packaging are tubs and pouches, which are petroleum byproducts and damaging to the environment
during manufacturing. As momentum for sustainable packaging continues to grow across all industries, producers must continue to search for suitable materials to eradicate the use of unsustainable options, while also increasing the ratio of reduce and reuse packaging materials. It is imperative to continue developing new technologies that can provide manufacturers with sustainable product packaging solutions. Sustainability is a quality to strive for, and there is so much manufacturers can do to ensure the adoption of sustainability in the nonwoven industry. Investing in innovative production processes including eco-friendly raw materials, in not only the products but also the packaging, are just some of the ways they can do so. It is vital to not neglect the need for greater transparency in raw materials, which in turn encourages and reassures consumers when purchasing environmentally friendly options. It is important for the nonwoven industry to be eco-conscious and start acting now to ensure the sustainable development of the industry.
JÜRGEN EIZINGER
Vice President Global Business Management Nonwovens Lenzing AG
NEWS ITALIAN DENIM BRAND REPLAY TO OPEN 4 STORES THIS YEAR. The brand’s offerings in the Indian market include a wide range of denim, casual wear, footwear and accessories for men and women. Mukesh Ambani-led Reliance Brands plans to open 4 stores of Italian denim brand Replay this year in the country after having won its distribution rights for the Indian market last year. The brand has opened its first store in Delhi/NCR region and aims to open another three outlets in Delhi and Mumbai, the company said in a statement. The brand’s offerings in the Indian market include a wide range of denim, casual wear, footwear and accessories for men and women. “I am very excited about Replay’s first store opening in India
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
at Delhi-Gurgaon. I am confident that our constant striving to deliver qualitative and innovative products will be in line with the consumers’ appetite for the highest standards in denim. Furthermore, it is a real pleasure to join forces with Reliance Brands Limited and I truly believe we are starting a wonderful journey together,” said Matteo Sinigaglia, CEO of Fashion Box SpA. Replay will also be available online exclusively on Reliance’s e-commerce portal AJIO.com. Reliance Brands’ current portfolio of brand partnerships comprises of Armani Exchange, Bally, Bottega Veneta, Brooks Brothers, Burberry, Canali, Coach, DC, Diesel, Dune among others. It operates over 420 stores and 350 shop-in-shops in India.
17
TECHNICAL ARTICLE
PROBLEMS AND REMEDIES IN THE WINDING OF POY PACKAGES Abstract Winding faults will occur in the POY bobbins of melt spinning. These faults will be ribbon formation, jali, hard bobbins, crushed paper tubes, loops, broken filaments, yarn wrapping on the drum, winder vibrations etc. In this paper, an attempt has been to review the problems associated with the winding of POY bobbins and their remedial actions.
1.0 Introduction In the melt spinning, from the quench chamber filament falls through the duct and thread are wound on the bobbins of the take up unit. The winder may have 4 to 6 bobbins on the same bobbin chuck. The winder is having friction drum, grooved drum, bobbin chuck, reversing mechanism, reversing shaft, bobbin push off device, intermingling jets etc. The pneumatic air operation system will start the winder automatically. With the help of suction gun, operator collects all the threads and will do the threading on the paper tubes. The rotation of bobbin chuck, traversing mechanism, grooved drum and friction drum will build the bobbin properly. While winding the yarns on the bobbins, there are chances to occur the package faults in the bobbins which lead to down grade the packages. It could be due to yarn wrapping on the drum, crushed paper tubes, winder vibrations, poor package build up, hard POY bobbins, broken filaments, loops etc. In this paper, the causes of faults and their remedies are presented.
2.0 Different problems and remedies 2.1 Ribbon formation Ribbon formation is also called as patterning. Pattern will occur when winds per double traverse is a whole number for surface driven machines. In case of precision winders, when the ratio between rotational speed of package and traverse frequency are in an integral ratio which causes the subsequent to warp on the same point. When successive layers wrapped on the same point, it will lead to pattern formation. Even, there will be an abnormal sound at the time of ribboning, it can also be visualized with the help of Stroboscope by matching the frequency of light with the rotational speed of the package. Pattern formation can be avoided by use of ant patterning mechanism. In this mechanism, the rotational speed of the drum shall be interrupted; package may be momentarily lifted from the drum.
2.2 Jali Formation
18
Jali or the net effect is also known a stitching. It is related to the improper tension in the yarn. It may occur due to low or high tension in the yarn. When the yarn falls out of the grooves of the drum, it may cause the slippage of winding layers and lead to jali formation. It is very difficult to unwind the thread from such type of packages. It will generate the winding waste since only choice is to cut the bobbins. Jali may occur in the single bobbin or all bobbins of the one winder or it may occur in all positions. Following actions may be taken to avoid jail formations yy Check the yarn guide for any accumulation yy Yarn path must be straight yy Check the yarn tension yy Change the TG yy Check the reversal point on the grooved drum yy Clean the surface of the grooved and friction drum yy Adjust the pig tail guide properly yy Check timing belt yy Spin finish oil level
2.2 Yarn wrapping on the drum Two drums i.e. grooved drum and plain drum may get sticky deposits on their surfaces. It could be due to spin finish, monomers which cause yarn wraps on the drum. To avoid the yarn wrapping, both the drums should be regularly cleaned. Spin finish oil may also cause the deposits on the drum. It is suggested that silicon free water can be used while preparation of spin finish oil. Yarn warps may also cause due to spin out, broken traverse guides, damaged paper tubes, improper spin finish oil preparation.
2.2.1 Crushed paper tubes High tension in the yarn may leads to paper tube crushing. The reuse of paper can lead to also the same problem. Before reuse the condition of paper tube must be checked. The proper tension is to be adjusted in the yarn depending upon the winding speed and single yarn strength.
2.2.2Winder vibrations Winders must be checked for vibrations periodically and any excessive vibration should be removed and rebalanced by balancing machines.
2.2.3 Poor package build The bad package build could be due to the tension variations in the all packages of the same winder. Equal tension must be adjusted by adjusting the pig tail guide.
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
TECHNICAL ARTICLE 2.2.4 Hardness of POY bobbins
TG properly, change pack etc.
When the winder pressures are not adequate, it may lead to hard packages. By the adjusting the over feed, it can be avoided.
2.2.5 Broken filament BF may occur due to fault in the spinning. When few filaments present out of the spin finish applicator guide, would lead to BF. Also check the oil reaches properly to the tip of the guide. When any hole of spinneret blocked, spin out/BF will occur. In this case, change the pack. Scrapping of spinnerets will also reduce the chances of BF
2.3 Poor uster values When spinning without godets, the grooved drum of winder imposes a shot term fluctuations on the POY. The frequency of this wave is that of the traverse frequency of the traverse mechanism. When the yarn runs out of the groove or at the reversal point may cause the variation in the uster value. The cv% of the Uster depends upon the over feed rate, spin finish type and OPU%.
2.4 Loops The loop will occur in the POY bobbins. It could be due to grooved drum, spinneret, and traverse guide. To avoid loops in the packages, check the groves of the drum, fix
3.0 Conclusion The take up unit of the melt spinning is an important part of the entire melt spinning line for winding of good packages. The good buildup of bobbins will decide the smooth unwinding of the thread in the next processes like texturing and twisting. The package faults like ribbon and jali will downgrade the quality of package. Moreover, it leads to breaks and waste generations. Proper settings, maintenance and control can avoid the faults in the packages. Proper housekeeping and material handling will also avoid the incidence of package faults.
4.0 Reference 1. Authors work experiences in the Rajasthan Petro Synthetics Ltd Udaipur on Barmag POY line.
DR. P.H. UKEY, DR. R N JOSHIDKTEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TEXTILE DKTEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji and Department of Textile Technology SGGSIE&T Nanded ukeypravin@gmail.com , rnjoshi2020@gmail.com
AUTOMATIC SINGLE YARN TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER
EVENNESS TESTER
for Spun Yarn, Roving, Sliver
Advt.
for Cotton/Blended Yarn, Wool, POY, Nylon, FDY
Measurement method : Constant rate of ellongation (CRE) Automatic 24 position package changer Standard WINDOWS 10 Desktop Exclusive sales & service agent for India
VISIT US at ITMA Barcelona, Spain 20-26th June 2019 Hall No. H-6 Stand : A 206
Capacitive measurement Optical measurement of Hairiness Standard WINDOWS 10 Desktop
Manufactured by : Tomsic S.r.l, Italy. Webpage : www.tomsic.eu E-mail : tomsic@tomsic.it
Email : thymasltd@gmail.com, tepl26@yahoo.com
"YOGIDHARA", 2 Nandanvan Society, Indubhai Patel Road, Alkapuri, Vadodara 390 007. Gujarat. India Phone : + 91 265 2312730 Webpage : www.thymas.com
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
19
COTTON REPORT
INDIA’S FAST CHANGING COTTON TRADE DYNAMICS India has always been a prominent player in the global cotton market. With the largest area under cultivation in the world, which constitute about 37% of the total area under cotton in the world, India continues to be one of the largest producers as well as exporters of cotton yarn in the world. However, with the changing dynamics of global cotton economy, India is fast losing its cotton export market to its competitors due to a sharp increase in the fiber prices, which makes Indian shipments uncompetitive in world markets.
Altering Cotton Trade Trend Bangladesh and Vietnam are the top two markets for Indian cotton, followed by China and Pakistan. Bangladesh, the largest export destination for India in recent years, has been increasingly sourcing cotton from Brazil on quality assurance and lower price. Exports to Pakistan have also come to a standstill and are unlikely to resume as mills there are reportedly well-stocked. India’s share in Vietnam’s cotton imports had fallen to 19.4% in Jan-Mar from 25.6% in the same quarter a year ago. The US’ share in this case has risen to over 60% from 51%. With on-going US-China trade talks, cotton exports from the US to China and neighbouring countries are gaining momentum. Besides the US and Brazil, cotton from African countries is also eating into India’s market due to price disparities. Prices in Indian cotton futures market moved up by around 4% to Rs.22,280 per bale(of 170 Kg) in the month of April alone. Indian cotton has become costlier by over 8% in last two months over lower crop estimates, decline in arrivals and weak demand coupled with unfavourable rupee movement. Indian rupee appreciated nearly 1.5% in last two months, making exports from India less attractive to key foreign buyers such as Bangladesh, China and Vietnam, helping rivals to eat into India’s share of imports in these countries.
going forward, Indian prices and progress of the US-China trade talks hold the key.
Supply Bottlenecks In the Oct-Mar period, Indian exporter signed deals for 42 - 43 lakh bales, of which 36 - 38 lakh bales have been shipped already. Export deals for 300,000 - 400,000 bales of cotton are under threat, unless renegotiated, as local prices are much higher than contracted prices, which may lead to defaults by exporters. The only hope of reinvigorating cotton trade industry is sufficient rainfall in the JunSep monsoon season and increased imports by China. Meanwhile, the Cotton Association of India (CAI) has lowered its 2018-19 (Oct-Sept) crop estimate by a whopping 700,000 bales to 321 lakh bales, making it the sixth straight cut for the current year. Cotton exports are estimated to ease by about 33 per cent from 69 lakh bales last year to 46 lakh bales this year. Indian cotton arrivals during October, 2018-April 2019 are estimated at 279 lakh bales. Consumption by Indian spinning mills for seven months between October 1, 2018 to April 30, 2019 is estimated at 184 lakh bales. Stocks held by Cotton Corporation of India, MNC buyers, ginners and exchange are estimated at 48 lakh bales as on April 30, 2019 which is about 51 lakh running bales. With small crop size and a very tight cotton balance sheet, cotton exports could see further curtailment until the supply of new crop begins in Oct-Nov. However, CAI also estimates higher cotton imports in order to restore severe shortage of the fiber crop i India’s cotton imports are estimated at 31 lakh bales this year as against 15 lakh bales reported last year. The imports this year is likely to set a new milestone after 2016 when the country imported a record 29 lakh bales of cotton.
A recent announcement of over 45 lakh bales of additional import quota for the year by China in the last week of April has raised hopes that the country may turn to India for the fiber crop. Following US-China trade war, India’s Cotton textile exports to China surged up to 69 per cent between April 2018 and February 2019 to $1.55 billion, against $920 million in the previous year period. However “MCX Cotton Derivatives at a Glance” Period
Avg Daily Volatil- Avg Daily Turno- Avg Daily Vol- Avg Daily Open Delivery (bales) ity ver (Crs) ume (bales) Interest (bales)
Apr-19
0.77%
389
1,74,749
5,17,881
30,900
YTD 2019
0.75%
270
1,26,418
4,10,407
1,46,800
Note: Stocks available for exchange delivery as on Apr 30, 2019 were 2,04,900 bales.
20
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
YARN REPORT
YARN EXPORTS DOWN IN APRIL Cotton export nosedives Cotton exports volume continued to nosedive, in April to 2.4 lakh bales (170 kg each) as against 10.1 lakh bales ex-ported in the same month of previous marketing year (2017-18). In April, cotton shipment value in US$ term declined by 76% YoY. Bangladesh was the largest importer of Indian cotton in April, followed by China and Vietnam. Malaysia was the fourth largest importer of Indian cotton during the month, followed by Pakistan.
cotton yarn from India this April as they had imported yarn worth US$2.095 million in April 2018. However, they were replaced by 7 other countries which imported yarn worth just US$0.16 million. Mexico, Nepal, Russia, Iran and Syria were among top fastest importers of cotton yarn in April while Guatemala, Bulgaria, South Africa, Algeria and Lithuania significantly reduced their imports compared to last year. 100% man-made fibre yarns exports rose 18% in April in values terms, comprising 3.6 million kg of polyester yarn, 2.4 million kg of viscose yarn and 1.6 million kg of acrylic yarn. Polyester yarn exports declined 15% in US$ term while viscose yarn exports value jumped 38% during the month. Acrylic yarn exports more than doubled during the month. Polyester spun yarns worth close to US$9 million were exported to 45 countries at average unit price of US$2.39 a kg, up US cents 3 compared to last month and down US cents 11 from last year. Turkey emerged as the largest importer of polyester yarn, followed by Morocco and USA.
Cotton yarn export falls 12% in April, China cuts import Spun yarns shipment totaled 116 million kg (down 7%) worth US$345 million (down 12%) implying an average unit value realization of US$2.97 per kg, up US cents 8 compared to previous month but down US cents 16 from a year ago average. Meanwhile, the INR against the US$ weakened from INR64.47 to INR68.21 this April, which usually augurs well for exports. China was the largest buyer of spun yarns, topping both in terms of volume and value. (Comparable shipment values for the same set of ports were 107 million kg – down 15%, worth US$317 million – down 19%) Cotton yarn export was at 95 million kg worth US$286 million (INR1,1951 crore), down 14% from previous year’s level in US$ terms. 70 countries imported cotton yarn from India at an average price of US$3.02 a kg, up US cents 9 from previous month and down US cents 18 from last year.
Viscose yarn worth US$7.8 million or INR53 crore was exported in April at an average price of US$3.20 per kg. Bangladesh was the top importer worth US$1.9 million, followed by Iran and Turkey. Belgium was the fourth largest importer of viscose yarn during the month. Blended spun yarns worth US$38 million were exported in April, down 11% YoY. During the month, 7.9 million kg of PC yarns was exported worth US$21 million while 3.4 million kg of PV yarns were exported worth US$9.5 million. Egypt, South Korea and Bangladesh, were the largest importers of PC yarn from India while Turkey was the single largest importer of PV yarns from India followed distantly by Pakistan. Shipment of all kinds of filament yarns totaled 67 million kg (up 0.2%. YoY), valued at US$113 million (down 6%. YoY) For more details contact Textile Beacon Global Info Services
China, imported 5% lesser cotton yarn from India this April. During the month, it imported 41 million kg of cotton yarn worth US$109 million. China was followed by Bangladesh with volume and value declining 38% year on year. Pakistan and Egypt were the other major importers of cotton yarn, with former recording 71% increase and latter rising 16%. Twelve countries did not import any
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
21
YARN REPORT
GLOBAL TEXTILE PRICING TREND IN APRIL Cotton
Cotton Yarn
In India, spot prices jumped INR2,025-3,275 per candy across varieties in April, with benchmark Gujarat Shankar-6 rising INR2,850 to average INR46,150 per candy. Surging cotton prices, in combination with shortage, have forced spinning mills in South India to look at imports to meet their requirements. However, with the fluctuations in international prices, mills had to adopt a wait and watch approach, anticipation of softening of prices. As per the recent revision, production is estimated at around 321 lakh bales (170 kg each) as against 328 lakh bales projected a few months ago. This implies a drop of 7 lakh bales in the current season. The downward revision in production is largely attributed to water shortage in Telangana, Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka and due to reports that farmers have uprooted their crop forgoing a chances of another picking.
Cotton yarn markets in China were on a weak trend as prices of some individual varieties declined. 32s continued to sell well, and combed 21s also saw smoother sales. Overall, cotton yarn market saw moderate transaction on the whole, while some individual players reported poor sales and a slight drop in prices. They opined that the sentiment will remain bearish for some time. 32s combed averaged 23.68 Yuan a kg (US$3.53 a kg) while carded yarn 32s prices were slightly up at 22.96 Yuan a kg (US$3.42 a kg). In Pakistan, cotton yarn prices moved up to cover the rising cost of cotton in domestic market. Finer yarn prices were seen moderating, implying that demand was poor and inventories piled up. In karachi, 30s carded prices were at PakRs185-190 per pound (US$2.88-2.96 a kg), while 32s cone in Faisalabad were at PakRs180-188 per pound (US$2.77-2.80 a kg, up US cents 5-6). In India, cotton yarn prices moved as cotton prices moved in either direction. Export offers were also raised, despite weakness in INR. 30s combed yarn for knitting were flat at INR230 a kg (US$3.31 a kg) in Ludhiana. Export offers gained US cents 15 to US$3.10 a kg.
Polyester chain pricing
Cotton Futures were slightly higher following strong export sales report from USDA. Speculators were the top buyers, but some mill buying was also seen. There was talk that the US may continue to have strong sales with other major exporters starting to run low on supplies. US sales suffered in the first half of the marketing year across markets, but have started to improve as other sellers ran out of supplies. There were expectations that planted area can increase this season as farmers could sow cotton instead of grains like corn or rice due to relative pricing strength. Reports imply that industry was preparing for more production as new facilities such as gins were being opened. On ICE Futures, May settled up US cents 2.56 while December settled at US cents 76.83 per pound, up US cents 2.14 month on month in April.
Polyester filament yarn prices moderated in China, rose in Pakistan and were flat in India. In China, offers were lowered in tandem with softening of upstream feedstock and due to thin trading atmosphere. Producers faced high inventory pressure as downstream mills adopted cautious buying attitude, in spite of their high run rates. Downstream mills showed wait-and-see attitude resulting in muted sales. In India, POY majors maintained stable prices as downstream mills demand was stagnant while exports were seen improving of-late. In Pakistan, imported DTY prices mostly dropped, adjusting to the currency movement while local prices generally up to flat. Trading atmosphere was thin and demand for large-volume abated, although mills still maintained production. Polyester staple fibre markets were stable to soft in
Global spot benchmark, the Cotlook A index, gained US cents 3.39 to end April at US cents 87.39 per pound, while in Pakistan the KCA spot rate surged PakRs175 through the month to PakRs8,960 per maund ex-Karachi.
22
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
YARN REPORT China but producers provided some discounts in order to liquidate goods. Offers for 1.4D direct-melt-spun polyester fibre in Jiangsu and Zhejiang were down and each deal was discussed separately. In Fujian, offers rolled over this in Shandong offers moderated amid tepid buying interest. Export offers remained unchanged on the back of higher crude oil prices, despite losses in PTA and MEG. Offers for 1.4D direct-melt PSF were moderated to 8.55-8.85 Yuan a kg (US$1.27-1.31 a kg) in Jiangsu and Zhejiang while the same in Fujian and Shandong were down US cents 1-2 at US$1.30-1.32 a kg. Export offers were flat at US$1.17 a kg FOB China. In India, producers’ offers were lowered as market sentiment went stalemated amid low buying interest. Producers’ offers for 1.2D were at INR102.50 a kg (US$1.46 a kg) and 1.4-2D at INR101.75 a kg (US$1.45 a kg), both down INR1.50 from March. In Pakistan, demand for PSF softened a bit but makers attempted to liquidate goods at current prices. 1.4D PSF producers’ offers were steady at PakRs.193-195 a kg (US$1.36-1.38 a kg).
NITIN MADKAIKAR
Textile Beacon
TEXTILEBEACON.COM - +91-9819915227
MARKET REPORT
ASIA PACIFIC TO CONTINUE ITS DOMINANCE IN GLOBAL TEXTILE DYESTUFF MARKET
Dyestuff is a broad term used to refer to a range of dyes and pigment product. Dye can be further described as a coloring substance when applied on some material changes the color of the material permanently. It is mainly used to color fabrics. Some other end use industries of dyestuff are textile, paper, and leather. The demand for dyestuff is increasing as it improves aesthetics of the textile product and makes it more attractive. According to the latest market report published by Transparency Market Research, the global textile dyestuff market was valued at around US$ 5 bn in 2017. The market is anticipated to expand at a CAGR of 5% from 2018 to 2026.
Growing Demand for apparels to Fuel Textile Dyestuff Market The global dyestuff market is classified on the basis of type, raw material, and application. On the basis of type, the global dyestuff market is segmented into acid dye, disperse dye, reactive dye, vat dye, azo dye, and sulfur dye. Type of dyestuffs differ on the type of fibers that need to be dyed. Acid dyes are mainly used for silk fibers and leather. Disperse dyes are used for synthetic fibers. Reactive dyes best suits cellulosic fibers/cotton textile. Vat dyes are employed for blended fibers. Textile dyeing is mainly used to recycling of used textiles. Sulfur dye
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
is used on the fiber having low brightness. Further, the manufacturing are ramping their investment towards research and development of better dyes has improved safety, ease of handling, and application accuracy. On the basis of raw material, the global dyestuff market is segmented into benzene, toluene, naphthalene, anthaquinone. The global textile dyestuff market has witnessed various developments and technological advancements over the last few years. This has resulted in availability of superior raw material in the market than before. Based on application, the global curcumin market is segmented into Apparels, Home and Institutional, Technical Textiles. Among all of them apparels segmented is projected to hold maximum share in the global dyestuff market. This is because of the increase demand of apparels among the common people owing to the increasing per capita income and rising disposable income. In terms of region, the global curcumin market has been divided into North America, Europe, Asia Pacific, the Middle East & Africa, and Latin America. Among them, Asia Pacific is projected to account for the largest market share in the overall textile dyestuff market. This is because of the rising urbanization and industrialization
23
MARKET REPORT activities in the region. Apart from this, presence of end user industries in countries like China, India and Japan plays a vital role in the growth of the textile dyestuff market in the region.
are E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Company, BASF SE, Huntsman International LLC., Archroma International, Bozzetto Group, Dystar Group, Lanxess AG, Arkema SA, and Sumitomo Chemical Company Ltd.
Key players operating in the global textile dyestuff market
Reference : TRANSPARENCY MARKET RESEARCH
FABRIC STEAMER - AN INSIGHT ON THE IMPORTANT FACTORS AND TRENDS INFLUENCING THE MARKET Summary: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fabric steamer market will observe a lucrative growth due to growing number of working women and rise in middle class population which can afford fabric steamers, increased standard of living and changing lifestyleâ&#x20AC;? A fabric steamer is also known as a garment steamer. It is a device used to quickly remove wrinkles from fabrics and garments with the use of high temperature steam. Fabric steamers are available in different sizes, price range, and features. They are easy to use and lightweight, designed to handle different types of fabrics and garments such as towels, clothes, and sheets. Fabric steamers are also used to remove wrinkles from delicate fabrics such as silk. These steamers are available with an anti-rust water tank, which is usually made of stainless steel. All these features are expected to enhance the market attractiveness of fabric steamers during the forecast period. The growth of the fabric steamer market is fueled by factors such as rise in middle class population which can afford fabric steamers, increased standard of living, changing lifestyle, and increased disposable income. Growing number of working women is also acting as a growth driver for the fabric steamer market. In addition, increasing expenditure on household appliances which includes cleaning appliances, bath appliances, washing appliances, room comfort appliances, and others is also driving the market. Consumers prefer eco-friendly appliances that do not produce harmful emissions. These eco-friendly appliances consume less energy as compared to the regular appliances. This trend is expected to have a long term impact on the fabric steamer market across the world. However, intense competition from local unorganized fabric steamer manufacturers with increase in the number of unorganized retailers of fabric steamers has had a significant effect on pricing discrepancy in the fabric steamer market. This is expected to have a negative impact on the global fabric steamer market during the forecast period.
24
The global fabric steamer market can be segmented in terms of product, operation, application, distribution channel, and geography. Based on product, the market is segmented into handheld and standing. Handheld fabric steamers are also known as travel clothes steamers. As compared to standing fabric steamers, handheld fabric steamers are less powerful. In terms of operation, the market can be segmented into automatic and semiautomatic. On the basis of application, the market is classified into residential and commercial. On the basis of distribution channel, the market can be segmented into online stores and offline stores. Growing adoption of smartphones and rise in internet penetration is expected to attract the customer toward online shopping. All these factors are expected to increase the market attractiveness of online distribution channels. In terms of geography, the global fabric steamer market is classified into Europe, North America, Middle East & Africa, Asia Pacific, and South America. North America is expected to hold the major share followed by Europe. The market in Asia Pacific is expected to have the fastest growth rate during the forecast period, the reason being the changing preferences and lifestyle of people in emerging countries. However, the markets in Europe and North Americas are anticipated to hold substantial share during the forecast period. In these regions, housekeeping staff employment is a costly affair. Hence, consumers opt for self-cleaning of utensils, garments, and fabric. Consumers are seeing products which are compact in nature. Major players operating in the global fabric steamer market are Koninklijke Philips N.V., Midea Group, SALAV USA, Panasonic Corporation, Haier Group Corporation, Chigo Holding Ltd, Hong Xin Holdings Limited, FLYCO, HOMETOP, GOODWAY, Conair Corporation, Jiffy Steamer, Reliable Corp, FRIDJA LIMITED., LG Electronics., Epica, Godrej & Boyce Mfg Co Ltd, IFB Industries Ltd, Samsung Electronics, Electrolux AB, GE Appliances, and others.
Reference : TRANSPARENCY MARKET RESEARCH
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
MARKET REPORT
SURAT REPORT Textile processors hike job charges upto Rs. 1.5/ mtr. The city based textile processors have hike the job charges for processing all types of finished fabrics by Rs. 1.5 per metre due to rising costs of dyes, chemicals, coal and textile workersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; wages. The hike in job charges is likely to increase costs of finished fabrics between 50 paise to Rs. 2. More than 300 dyeing and printing mills in Surat produce around 2.50 crore metre printed cloth daily. The printing and dyeing charges on grey cloth are different for different factories. The minimum charges of printing per meter starts from Rs 8 which reaches Rs 25 per metre. The minimum charges for dyeing per meter starts from Rs 3 and goes up to Rs 10. Textile traders purchases grey cloth from powerloom weavers and give it to dyeing and printing factories for getting it printed and for softening of the grey cloth. Surat imports dyes and chemicals, raw materials from China. Prices have seen an upward increase after many units in China were shut down due to pollution norms. The shutdown of units has caused shortage in the market. Local manufacturers of dyes and chemicals seeing the shortage in the market have also increased their prices. Prices of dyes have increased by 20 t0 30 per cent, while chemical prices have gone up by 15 per cent. South Gujarat Textile Processors Association (SGTPA) President Jitu Vakhariya said, processing industry is having a tough time. The prices of dyes and chemicals have been increased by almost 30 per cent. The cost of printing and dyeing goes up to 50 paisa to one rupees per metre and the mill owner had to bear the loss. Apart from this, the labour salaries have also been hiked. Even the prices of coal used in the mills to generate steam have also gone up to Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,500. The input cost is increasing. Due to the price rise in all the sectors, the mill owner finally decided to hike the job charges of printing and dyeing on grey cloth.
New market Rajhans Imperia to boost readymade garments industry in Surat The newly constructed, Rajhans Imperia will boost the readymade garments industry in Surat. All the members of Surat Readymade Garments Association(SRGA) have opened their shops in Rajhans Imperia Super-Mall. This mall is constructed near by textile market area on ring road. Surat is famous for Textile Manufacturing. The textile in-
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
dustry is one of the oldest and the most widespread industries in Surat. Around 90% of polyester used in India comes from Surat. It is a hub of Man Made Fabrics(MMF). The city produces close to 2.5 crore metres of fabrics on a daily basis. Surat also has over 300 textile dyeing & printing mills and five lakh powerloom weaving machines. There are over 160 textile markets are set up on ring road which have daily turnover of more than 100 crore of sarees, dress materials and other raw & finished fabrics. When it comes to readymade garments the big retailer do not come in to Surat but go to cities like Ahmedabad, Jaipur and Delhi. Surat have never been able to compete with them and do bigger business. In 2018, Surat Readymade Garments Association has been setup with 60 topmost companies. As a next progress, all the members of SRGA have opened their shops in the newly constructed, Rajhans Imperia Super-Mall. The shop displays an exclusive collection of designer sarees, kurtis, tops, gown, leggings, wedding dresses and a huge collection of tradition & western wear.
Low-cost synthetic saree & dress material glittering: Traders expects business over 1,000 Cr. in festival season The festival Ramzan brings cheers and good hope for city based wholesasle textile traders. The demands of synthetic saree & dress material has increased and traders have received good orders from across the country. Especially, low-cost saree, dress material, burqa fabrics are in good demand from Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Odisha and Kolkata. The textile traders are expecting business over 1,000 Crore in festival season. The traders are busy dispatching orders for saris and dress material to different parts of the country. Surat is the only centre in the country that manufactures cheap fabrics, suited for consumers in Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and Kolkata. Saris, dresses and burqa material cost just around Rs 100 to 300 per piece. Textile traders Rangnath said, there is demand for lowcost dress material, fabrics and saris because of Ramzan festival. The sale has seen a whooping rise by 50 per cent and daily turnover in the markets is going up. Traders have received huge orders for low-cost fabrics priced between Rs100 and Rs300 in the local market. The low-cost saris are supplied to wholesalers and they sell them to traders in retail markets in villages. The Surat based synthetic textile industry is hopeful for an increase in good business.
25
NEWS ITMA SPEAKERS PLATFORM FEATURE PRESENTATIONS BY INVITED INDUSTRY EXPERTS FOR THE FIRST TIME Finance forum to add practical insights into textile sector financing and funding An exciting and diverse panel of industry experts has been invited to share future trends, rare insights and strategic solutions at the ITMA Speakers Platform. This is the first time that experts from non-exhibiting commercial organisations have been invited to participate. The Speakers Platform is part of the ITMA Innovation Lab, a special feature launched to promote innovation excellence in the textile and garment industry. At a time when the industry is facing massive disruption, intense competition and global challenges, the owner of ITMA, CEMATEX - the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, strives to add greater value to participants’ experience at ITMA 2019. Mr Fritz Mayer, President of CEMATEX, explained: “It is critical for the global textile, garment and fashion industry to collaborate and to share perspectives and best practices. In the past, the Speakers Platform featured only presentations by Research and Innovation Pavilion exhibitors.” He added, “As the world trends towards Industry 4.0 and grapples with sustainability challenges, we would like to offer ITMA as an inclusive platform for all stakeholders to converge and work together to address the challenges we face in today’s rapidly evolving world. Hence, we have invited non exhibitors, as well as all ITMA exhibitors to add greater vibrancy to the Platform.” By having industry experts who are not ITMA exhibitors to give their presentations, CEMATEX hopes to encourage cross-pollination of ideas and spotlight best in class solutions. The invited industry speakers will join ITMA 2019 exhibitors selected to make their presentations based on these themes:
• Innovative Raw Materials & Manufacturing Technology • Strategic Business Innovation through Automation & Digitalisation • Technical Textiles Innovations and Manufacturing Technology • Sustainable Textile & Garment Manufacturing in the Circular Economy Response from industry professionals has been positive. Well-known experts who have confirmed their acceptance to speak include Yoel Fink, CEO of Advanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA). He will address the topic, ‘Textile Sensors - Applications and Market Growth’. Other renowned speakers are: •Lutz Walter, Director Innovation & Skills, EURATEX, will present ‘Towards a 4th Industrial Revolution of Textiles & Clothing - Strategic Innovation & Research Agenda: Results in Practice & Way to Go’. •Rakhil Hirdaramani, Manufacturers Committee Chair, World Federation of the Sporting Goods Industry (WFSGI) will provide insights on ‘Digitisation & Realisation of Data of the Shop Floor’. •Navaid Baqai, Director, Global Textile of Cotton Council International (Cotton USA) will speak on the ‘Impact of US Cotton and Its Technical & Financial Performance. • Peter Sestic, Lead Development Engineer, Sigmatex UK, will highlight ‘The ‘Breakthrough Aerospace Materials’ Project (BAM) on Development of 3D Woven Textile Composites in the Aerospace Industry’. On the sustainability front, leading industry practitioners will share their viewpoints and solutions:
ITALIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY: INSTITUTIONAL AND TRADE MISSION IN THAILAND A select group of Italian textile machinery manufacturers led an institutional and trade mission in late April in Thailand, organized by the Italian Trade Agency and by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Industry Manufacturers. The mission’s program included meeting with various local trade association representatives and industry training centers, as well as visits to textile companies and the Country’s universities with a textile vocation. ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi explains the reasons of the mission: “We had a dual goal: to get to know the lo-
26
cal textile manufacturing sector’s level of technology and its current needs, and to assess possible forms of collaboration and partnerships between Italy’s textile machinery industry and entities within the Country providing specific textile training.” Zucchi adds that “In Thailand, the textile sector is undergoing a deep rooted transformation. There’s a demand for machinery that can cut back not just on production costs, but also on the environmental impact of textile manufacturing.” Indeed, the demand for machinery by Thai textile manu-
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
NEWS facturers is moving towards technologies capable of reducing production costs and increasing production capacity. In 2018, the value of Italian exports to Thailand amounted to 8 million euros. “I believe the outcome of this mission was on the whole very positive,” concludes ACIMIT’s president. “We allowed local entrepreneurs to become aware of the latest Italian technology in the sector, while at the same time laying the foundations for a more rewarding partnership with
local authorities.” The visits to the Thailand Textile Institute proved especially interesting, a government body that manages planning, development and support for the textile industry, as well as at the Faculty of Industrial Textiles and Fashion Design of Rajamangala University of Technology in Bangkok. Six ACIMIT member companies participated in the mission: Brazzoli, Ferraro, Laip, Ms Printing Solutions, Sicam and Stalam.
ITME AFRICA 2020 – INITIATING TECHNOLOGY REVOLUTION IN AFRICAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY India ITME Society’s ITME AFRICA 2020 – A unique and exclusive business event with the theme “Prosperity for AFRICA through Textile Technology” shall be held from 14th to 16th February 2020, at Millennium Hall, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. ITME AFRICA 2020 is poised to be more than an exhibition and propose to bring to table complete solutions for Textile industry, Affordable technology, International xposure, learning and experience, confluence of business houses, Investment opportunities, Joint ventures, Networking with technocrats, educators, thus paving way for a wave of knowledge, progress, growth and prosperity. Garnering tremendous response from Industry ITME AFRICA 2020 shall host prominent and key textile machinery manufactures from India & across the globe. Country Pavilions from Italy, Turkey, China & Switzerland shall showcase the Technology & Engineering expertise from their respective Countries apart from India. Engineering Exports Promotion Council (EEPC, Govt. of India) pavilion shall encourage & support Engineering companies from India to connect with African Countries. The event is supported by both Govt. of India and Govt. of Ethiopia and officials from 130 diplomatic missions present in Ethiopia shall be invited and are expected to visit
ITME AFRICA 2020 to shall interact with exhibitors. Space Booking is complete; Visitor Registrations & Promotions for ITME AFRICA 2020 have started. Road shows in South Africa, Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Zambia, Botswana, Ethiopia & Egypt are scheduled from July 2019 onwards. The event shall cater to all developing textile markets and technology demand for all of Africa’s textile nations. Technology seminars, B2B meetings, Financial solutions, Cultural programs and Net-working dinner are planned to facilitate maximum opportunity for participants. Indian delegations from Textile Export Promotion Councils & other textile association are expected to visit & attend ITME AFRICA 2020 making it the Top business networking platform to begin the year of 2020. Be it connecting with traders, dealers, retailers, exporters, consultants or acquire Technology / engineering solutions, ITME Africa 2020 is the place to be! We welcome you to this exclusive event & look forward to your participation in ITME Africa 2020, The Right Place & the Right Time To Aspire, Compete, Explore !!!
US TERMINATES TURKEY’S DESIGNATION AS GSP BENEFICIARY US President Donald Trump terminated the designation of Turkey as a beneficiary nation under its generalized system of preferences (GSP) in a May 16 proclamation, while the suspense regarding India’s status continued. Turkey’s termination becomes effective today. On March 4, President Trump announced his intention to terminate India’s GSP designation. The exemption for Turkey from application of the safeguard measures on crystalline silicon photovoltaic (CSPV) products and large residential washers is also removed, effective May 17, President Trump proclaimed. The United States had designated Turkey as a GSP beneficiary developing country in 1975. Though the 60-day notice period for India ended on May 3, the White House or the US Trade Representative (USTR) is yet to issue a statement on the fate
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
of India’s status, according to global newswires. GSP is the largest and oldest US trade preference programme and is designed to promote economic development by allowing duty-free entry for thousands of products from designated beneficiary countries. A section of the media reported that after the recent India visit of US commerce secretary Wilbur Ross, the US Government has agreed not to take a formal decision on India’s termination till the ongoing Indian elections are over. An increase in gross national income (GNI) per capita, declining poverty rates, and export diversification, by trading partner and by sector, are evidence of Turkey’s higher level of economic development, according to a March 4 USTR statement.
27
NEWS USA INCREASES ADDITIONAL TARIFF TO 25% ON US$ 200 BILLION IMPORTS FROM CHINA - AN OPPORTUNITY FOR INDIA’S TEXTILES INDUSTRY Shri Sanjay K Jain, Chairman, CITI stated that due to the ongoing trade war between the United States of America (USA) and China, the USA has hiked additional tariff to 25% on US$ 200 billion imports from China, applicable from 10th May 2019. He further stated that the additional tariff hike covers Textile Chapters: 50-60. Mr. Sanjay Jain observed that CITI’s analysis of Chapters 50-60 which are part of the list of notified US$ 200 billion imports from China and on which additional tariff has been increased to 25% (as given below in Table 1) reveals that India is at an advantageous position due to tariff hike on China’s Textile Products and we must grab this opportunity to increase our share of Textiles exports to the USA. Table 1: Summary of USA’s Imports of Textile Products from China on which Additional Tariff is increased from 10% to 25% Chapter
Description
No. of Tariff Lines 10-Digit
USA’s Imports from China (US$ million)
at
USA’s Imports from India (US$ million)
2018
2018
50
Silk
34
23.17
11.15
51
Wool
109
24.69
3.36
52
Cotton
520
207.69
97.30
53
Other Vagetable Fibres
61
35.34
57.62
54
Manmade Filaments
269
614.26
193.58
55
Manmade Staple Fibres
388
392.68
113.69
56
Nonwovens Cordage
77
709.69
95.02
57
Floor Coverings
74
737.85
906.47
58
Special Woven Fabrics
107
216.94
37.28
59
Coated and Industrial Fabrics
75
610.58
115.62
60
Knitted Fab- 97 rics
386.09
75.97
Total
3959
1707
1811
tioned textile products is approximately US$ 3.96 billion in 2018 which is only 2% of USA’s notified US$ 200 billion imports from China. Whereas, USA’s total imports of these textile products from India is approximately US$ 1.71 billion in 2018, which is 43% of USA’s imports from China. Out of the total textile products, cotton textiles account for the largest number of tariff-lines (520 at 10 digit level). In terms of value, the most imported products belong to floor coverings, nonwoven cordage and manmade filaments. Mr. Jain stated that the additional tariff hike does not include Garments and Made-ups Segments which means that there will be no additional advantage for the Apparel & Made-ups exporters from the above development. Mr. Jain felt that the above-mentioned additional tariff hike provides an opportunity for the Indian Textile Industry to increase its exports to USA, particularly for the products belonging to the categories; cotton textiles, floor coverings, and manmade filaments.
BANGLADESH REQUESTS INDIA TO WITHDRAW ANTI-DUMPING DUTY. Bangladesh’s Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi recently requested his Indian counterpart Suresh Prabhu to take suitable measures to withdraw anti-dumping duty on Bangladeshi products. Both met on the sidelines of the two-day WTO Ministerial Meeting in New Delhi. Munshi pushed for more apparel import to India from and more Indian investment in Bangladesh. Prabhu assured all necessary measures to address the issue, according to a Bangladesh media reported citing a commerce ministry press release. Despite a general duty-free access of Bangladeshi products to India, several Indian states often impose taxes if the volume of imported products appears to affect their local enterprises
Source: Office of Textile and Apparel, USA CITI Chairman mentioned that the value of above-men-
28
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
INTERVIEW
RSWM ENTERING INTO COMPACT YARN SEGMENT not less than 25% of the cost with best quality. I can even recall a meeting with Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading manufacturer of textile machinery. We had an interesting discussion on innovation through machines. We are working on that different concept. It is not good to go with hi-fi machines and investing so much of money into something which gives payback in 11 to 12 years. No one in market with this situation can survive. That is why we are working on an innovative idea and thanks to the technical expertise and human resource, we are confident of tasting success in that as well.
RAJEEV JAIN
BUSINESS HEAD-YARN BUSINESS RSWM LTD. Compact Cotton Key Focus For RSWM RSWM is one of the largest manufacturers and exporters of synthetic and blended spun yarns from India. With more than 10 production units, all strategically located in India, the US$1-billion group of companies employs over 25 Thousand people. Rajeev Jain- Business Head, Yarn Business, RSWM, who is in his second stint in RSWM, has been travelling across Europe, Egypt, Turkey and China. Having formal education in the textile business and gathering vast experience through industry meets, fairs and exhibition, Rajeev speaks exclusively with Textile Value Chain on some of the key plans of the organization in the coming years. Edited excerpts.
Expanding capacity and plans ahead Our plan as of now is to explore compact cotton yarn. Compact cotton yarn is much in demand in export market for knits. So, I think we are probably going for the same & widen our already versatile product basket. Another project we are exploring working on is 100% linen wet spinning. We are not targeting regular cotton as a sector. However, we are targeting only compact cotton yarn and that too adopting the technology which will give us the highest productivity and the best quality with lowest hairiness index. So, whatever studies we have done till date the latest range of machines and another concept which we want to live with, is saving upon the cost and making project the best viable in terms of payback. And, we have been very successful in that. With this, we shall be saving
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
Regarding RSWM, I can say, this is the only spinning group where we have been so seriously working on innovation, having wonderful infrastructure of new product development at Banswara and Gulabpura. We have the facility for even home furnishing fabric also. In fabric making endto-end processing, we have in house facility apart from different sampling processes. You name a fibre, we are in it in some form or the other to honour creativity in true sense. We have crossed beyond 20% in the value-added-product segment. We are trying to further improve by another 10%.
Research Methodology for Innovation We have got our own trained team, technically competentt and qualified people and further more we develop their knowledge skill by making them visit and attend all kind of exhibitions across the globe. They are finding out new tips through discussions they are having with designers & people all over the world and they implement in the products. We have designers in India for suiting , shirting and home textiles. Right from the early stage of the business, I have been meeting them regularly at least once in a quarter. We have been doing a decent job in home textile also. We have the widest range of products. We did not have the compact yarn which also we might add on immediately along with linen. That makes us having a complete basket.
Views on sustainability With so much of efforts put in, we have had great success in promoting sustainability concept. We have also tied up with one of the leading retail chains in India who had agreed to provide mini studio space dedicated for us to keep our wide range of new products available to their designers any time. We are also in active conversations with some of the export companies and had been travelling around the globe in various exhibitions and seminars to understand such concepts. Thus we are confident on sustainability.
29
INTERVIEW
VOLTAS, SHIMA SEIKI UNVEILS EXPERIENCE CENTER IN TIRUPPUR as the garment is manufactured by the machines directly from the yarn. The whole garment machines can also give remarkable fashion and meet all quality guidelines in terms of grip, finishing and more. The experience center also is equipped with a hands-on lab with high-tech ‘total fashion system’ where the customers can design their virtual sample in the computing devise provided in the lab and in the process the time for sample making is reduced. Currently the customers have to go through multiple levels of approvals.
C.KAMATCHI SUNDARAM & TEAM Voltas Limited
India’s leading textile hub Tiruppur had recently witnessed Voltas and Shima Seiki unveiling an experience zone that will be a boon for not just for their customers, but to the industry as a whole. The experience zone located in Poosari Thottam in Karuvampalayam vicinity has state-of-the-art machines that not only help the customer understand total fashion and whole garment technology, will also act as a local center for education, hands-on training and post-sale support center.
With flat-knitting technology is now being accepted widely beyond traditional textile players and industries like health-care or automobile started using textile in some way or the other. Voltas is planning to reach out not only people in the circular knitting technology but also those who are from other segment of the value chain. The experience center will also be utilized to the fullest for having training and development activities on regular basis. With an existing experience center in Ludhiana, this one in Tiruppur is the second experience center by Voltas who is looking at creating a similar experience center in Delhi in July. On successful completion of Delhi facility, Voltas is bullish on opening experience centers in Mumbai and Kolkata also.
Advt.
The foremost objective of the experience center is to make the customer experience the whole garment machines and find out for themselves the various possibilities to make whole range of garments directly from the machines. This innovation will help the industry save time
Speaking to Textile Value Chain, C.Kamatchi Sundaram, Vice-President, Textile Machinery Division and Business Excellence at Voltas Limited said, “Tiruppur is the center of knitting technologies. We feel this is the right time for Tiruppur as a market to diversify and look at flat knitting technology as an additional option. The high-value added garments are much needed by big brands who are looking for innovating products.”
Export & Import
30
HO : A-403, Nirav Park, Behind Maruti Apartment, Opp. Kiran Diamond, Umiya Mandir Road, Varachha Road, Surat – 395006 Email : bipinvora1959@gmail.com , voraassociate1@gmail.com Mob:- 8128 12 0707, Office Tel No : 0261-4897444
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
LUWA COMPLETES SUCCESSFUL 26 YEARS IN INDIA
Advt.
INTERVIEW
A GLOBAL MARKET LEADER IN TEXTILE AIR ENGINEERING
NOW UNDER NEDERMAN GROUP
P.K.SINGH President , LUWA INDIA Luwa India recently celebrated the Silver Jubilee of its India presence. The company, over the years, has grown multifold, becoming one of the preferred choices for the textile industry owners in the country, thanks to the efficient leadership and new products. Started in the year 1993, Luwa stands for well-engineered, innovative systems, plants, and solutions for textile and other industries in India and across the globe. Some of the key solutions include Textile Air Engineering, Industrial Air Engineering, Eco-Engineering, Control Engineering--on the highest level, compliant to Swiss standards. In an exclusive interview with Textile Value Chain, PK Singh, President – Luwa India, shares the insights about company’s recent performance, key trends, roadmap, new challenges in the textile business and post-sale supports. Edited excerpts. How did the financial year 2018-19 treat you overall? What were the key highlights? The year 2018-19 went quite well for us, especially because of the good business coming from Spinning Mills. Luwa India also celebrated it’s Silver Jubilee year, having completed 25 years serving Indian Textile industry. We are providing complete solution to mills starting from designing a system to supplying and installing the equipment. We get engaged at very initial phase of the project and coordinate very closely with customers for designing the air conditioning plants which will be at an optimum level in power consumption and capital cost. Luwa high performance plants are designed in such a way that it needs very less maintenance and consumes minimal power. We have executed numerous prestigious project, primarily in Synthetic Fibre business of Bhilosa Industries Ltd and Grasim Ltd and in Natural Fibre of Vardhman Group, Nitin Group, Sintex Group and Nandan Denim. What are the key trends that you noticed among the textile business owners across the value chain in the last financial year? The new trend being observed is that now textile business owners are consolidating their business and are looking to integrate in both directions. NiMay 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
expert at drawing your fibres to perfection Rolls, godets, heating elements and custom built machines for heat treatment and drawing of synthetic filaments. Win – OLT® yarn tension on-line monitoring systems. Engineered and produced in Switzerland
Retech Aktiengesellschaft CH-5616 Meisterschwanden info@retech.ch www.retech.ch
31
INTERVIEW tin Group is going with forward integration by putting weaving mill whereas BVM group is going with backward integration by investing hugely in yarn spinning mills. Also, I believe that going forward there will be further consolidation by big corporate groups in their textile business. What is the roadmap for your organization in the forthcoming financial year? Textile industry especially in India are going through difficult times. We are cautious in our forecast for the forthcoming financial year and are looking at subdued investments coming. We want to focus mainly on our existing customer and undertake projects to augment their plant performance by auditing their plants and help them to save energy and decrease the downtime if any because of our plants. What are the new challenges textile business owners are concerned in terms of Luwa machineries and are you bringing any solutions that addresses that? Luwa is proud to be pioneer in bringing new products to the textile industry in the field of Humidification and Ventilation System. We have introduced a lot of product in past few years and our R&D team in Zurich constantly keep on working closely with textile machinery manufacturers, client’s and environmental engineers to either bring some different new energy efficient products or to optimise the existing products suitable for the changed machinery con-
32
figuration. For example our Design team had recognised that in the next few years the space required for H plant will going to be a major concern for the textile business owners. So our core R& D team started conceptualising on the product and soon came out with a completely new designed product called MCV which is a compact filter , can handle more air volume at much lower pressure drop, thus saving space and power both. Explain the new machineries you are planning for India market? Luwa has launched it’s new series B 600 Axial flow fans which are highly efficient and consumes lower power than our B 400 series fan. Also we are soon going to commercialize MCV filters for market. We are also going to launch soon Loomlite® to be fixed along with Luwa Loomsphere system over the looms for saving power in Loom shed. Please explain your USP in terms of the post-sale supports. Any update on that part? Luwa believes to offer complete value for money to its customers. Luwa USP in terms of the post-sale supports is availability of it’s service engineer at the shortest notice. Also, Luwa provide online supports for Digicontrol system from back office and make available the spares at a much faster pace at an affordable price. Luwa is also working on IOT platform to offer complete CRM solutions to the customers.
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
NEWS
SOCIAL & LABOR CONVERGENCE PROGRAM (SLCP) LAUNCHING OPERATIONS IN INDIA SLCP launching in India in late-May 2019. Series of launch events taking place across India in partnership with Texprocil, AEPC and Shahi Exports. MUMBAI,21st May 2019: The Social & Labor Convergence Program (SLCP) is an initiative led by the world’s leading manufacturers, brands, retailers, industry groups, (inter) governmental organizations, service providers and civil society organizations, to eliminate audit fatigue by replacing current proprietary tools with a standard-neutral Converged Assessment Framework. The mission of the SLCP is to improve working conditions by allowing resources that were previously designated for compliance audits to be redirected towards the improvement of social and labour conditions. In the first roll-out phase in late-May 2019, SLCP will launch operations in India as well as China, Sri Lanka and Taiwan. The benefits of SLCP for facilities are that it addresses audit fatigue by reducing the number of social audits and facilitates measuring of employment practices, thus improving working conditions & employee relations. It also redeploys resources towards improvement actions and fosters trust and collaboration between supply chain partners. SLCP will be holding a series of free one-day seminars in four centres to introduce facilities and their business partners to the SLCP process. The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council popularly known as Texprocil is organising the launch event
for SLCP in Mumbai on 5th June and Dr K V Srinivasan, Chairman Texprocil welcomed the launch of the SLCP in India at various other centres also like Delhi, Bengaluru, and Tirupur. He said that the issues of Social and Labour Compliance become highly relevant in industries which are labour-intensive, and the textile and clothing industry is one such sector. Texprocil is privileged to be associated with the SLCP operations launch in India particularly the launch event in Mumbai, he added. The SLCP is not a code of conduct or compliance program. The Converged Assessment Framework is a tool developed by the SLCP which provides a data set with no value judgement or scoring. It is however compatible with existing audit systems and codes of conduct. This means that the same data set can be used by a wide-range of stakeholders & interpreted according to their interests and criteria. This eliminates the need for repetitive audits to be carried out on the same facility. Findings from research conducted by SLCP in 2018 show that adoption of SLCP could unlock resources worth over $1.5 million spent on duplicative audits in 2019 alone, rising to $200 million by 2023, for re-deployment to improve working conditions. The SLCP launch will be organized by Shahi Exports in Bengaluru on May 30 and by AEPC in Tirupur and Delhi on June 3 and June 7 respectively.
INDIA ITME 2020 OPENS WITH A BANG BREAKING IT’S OWN PREVIOUS RECORDS Within just 24 hours of the Online booking opened, India ITME 2020 shows tremendous response with over 15000 sq meters of the area already booked & 100 Percent payments received from participants. Stalwarts from the Textile industry LMW, LCC, Alidhra, Kirloskar Toyota, Voltas, Toyota Industries, Picanol, Talleres Ratera, Balkan Tekstil Makina along with many Domestic & International exhibitors from Italy, Turkey, China, Japan, Spain, Turkey, Belgium, Taiwan, South Korea have already ensured their presence in this much awaited & prestigious Mega Textile Technology & Engineering Exhibition of the year 2020.
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
Continuing the tradition of success, this 11th edition of the ITME Series shall be spread across 2,35,000 sq mtr area with over 1800 participating companies & over 1,50,000 visitors, to be held at IEML, India’s Largest Integrated Venue, Greater Noida, from 10th - 15th December 2020. A complete spectrum of 21 exhibiting chapters from fibre to finished goods shall showcase at India ITME 2020. We invite you to Celebrate the Soul of Textiles with us at India ITME 2020.
33
EVENT REPORT
HIGHLIGHTS OF COTTON CONCLAVE® 2019 Discovering economics of cotton to prevent poverty and promote prosperity
villages of Maharashtra if the cotton textile industry is ready to buy cotton at attractive prices.
Initiative of COTTONGURU® with IMC-ERTF,
5. Immediate response by Shri Bhupendrasingh Rajpal (Pappuseth) of M/s Manjeet Cotton, the biggest cotton ginner of India, that he will buy all the seed cotton (kapas) at a premium of Rs 400 per quintal (Rs 200 for contamination controlled cotton and Rs 200 if the cotton tests 31mm).
Mission Partner: Industries (CITI),
Confederation
of
Indian
Textile
Farmer Partner: Federation of Seed Industries of India (FSII) Forex Partner : Edelweiss Securities Ltd. COTTON CONCLAVE® is the world’s one and only conference with 1. Presence of • 32 progressive farmers from across the country • 124 thought leaders representing the entire cotton textile value chain including ginners, spinners, garmentors, brands, research scientists, seed cos., agri input cos., etc.
6.Detailed cotton crop report by Shri Atul Ganatra (Present, CAI) 7. Most significant declaration by Ms. Ali Rani (CMD, CCI) that CCI is planning a platform of atleast 25 profit making public sector enterprises to undertake mechanisation of harvesting of cotton.
• 11 key Government officials and policy makers
8. Extraordinary presentation by Federation of Seed Industries of India (FSII) on “How to increase the cotton yield in India”, the most important factor to help Double the farmers’ income.
• 7 prime investors of textile equities
9. Introduction of
• 5 leading textile media representatives
• India’s most innovative cotton textile hub-Hinganghat, Maharashtra comprising of
• 4 Heads of various Textile Associations
2. Presentation of “COTTONGURU® Pradarshan Khet” model projects where COTTONGURU® team has worked for 6 months with progressive farmers in their farms to enhance their yields and quality helping them to market their produce such that they earn profit in cotton farming.
a) APMC : The biggest and most farmer supportive in Maharashtra. b) Gimatex Industries (P) Ltd: Most integrated textile unit. c) Pee Vee Textiles (P) Ltd: Most innovative spinning unit using robotics. d) Prakash White Gold (P) Ltd: Best ginning factory making contamination controlled cotton and generating handsome premium. • Latest farm technologies : NaPanta mobile App by young and dynamic V.Naveenkumar of Hyderabad. The App is being used by over 1.25 lakh farmers in A.P. and Telangana. The App was immediately downloaded in the mobile phone of all attending farmers for immediate benefits.
3. Special award for Shri Ashish Hande, a young progressive farmer from Vidarbha, for his excellent work in creating “COTTONGURU Pradarshan Khet” and being an inspiration and trainer for many of famers in that area. 4.Passionate appeal by Shri Pashabhai Patel (Chairman, Agriculture Price Commission, Maharashtra) that he guarantees quality cotton supply from minimum 50
34
10. Launch of special edition of COTTON CONCLAVE® 2019 Annual Magazine containing White Paper No. 1.0 released during Cotton Conclave 2018, which has proved to be a roadmap for the cotton textile industry throughout the year. The magazine also consists of some important and relevant articles of COTTONGURU® Shri Manish Daga written for various International and Domestic textile magazines. 11. Declaration of formation of COTTON FORUM, a core group for integrating the developments arising out of
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
EVENT REPORT COTTON CONCLAVE® and executing the White Paper No. 1.0 & 2.0. The current members of COTTON FORUM are
special Biotech plant for value addition of cotton byproducts.
a) Shri Sureshbhai Kotak (Chaiman, Kotak Group)
b) Prakash White Gold (P) Ltd, Maharashtra generated premium for every bale manufactured keeping in mind the Red Light shown in Conclave that “ Contamination is discounted”.
b) Shri G.Chandrasekhar (IMC-ERTF) c) Shri Atulbhai Ganatra (President, CAI) d) Shri Sanjay Jain (President, CITI) e) Shri Arvind Sinha (Ex-President, TAI) f) Shri Manish Daga (COTTONGURU®) 12. Drafting, printing and submission of White Paper No. 2.0 comprising of sustainable solutions to the 3 burning issues facing the cotton textile industry, and India: a) How do we encash the cotton economy to prevent poverty and promote prosperity in India? b) How do we make cotton/textile industry the darling of investors? c) How do we increase the cotton yields in India? The dynamic thought leaders who had participated in COTTON CONCLAVE® 2018 shared their progress reports of last year based on the take away from the Conclave and WhitePaper. Some of them are:
c) Anilkumar & Co, Karnataka organised a joint programme with state seed association to help farmers get best quality seeds. d) Amrutrao Deshmukh, award winner farmer for highest yield in Maharashtra, travelled with COTTONGURU across 600 villages, training 20000 farmers for increasing yield. All in all, COTTON CONCLAVE® 2019 gave a perfect platform to India’s most progressive cotton farmers, cotton textile supply chain stake holders, Government officials and textile investors to openly share their views and integrate their efforts on solutions rather than problems. The solutions, formatted in White Paper No. 2.0, if executed well, will ensure sustainable prosperity for the entire cotton value chain and contribute to create a conducive atmosphere of high employment, entrepreneurship and investment thereby helping enhance India’s GDP.
a) Gimatex Industries (P) Ltd, Maharashtra started a
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
35
EVENT REPORT
“NATIONAL INVESTORS’’ CONCLAVE ON TECHNICAL TEXTILES (NICTT 2019)” 24th April 2019 | The Residency Towers, Coimbatore, India The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) jointly with Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF) & The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) organized the First Edition of “National Investors’ Conclave on Technical Textiles (NICTT 2019)” on 24th April, 2019 at The Residency Towers, Coimbatore, India. The event has been organized for the first time in Coimbatore to promote, expand & diversify new Investments in Technical Textile Industry by Entrepreneurs across the country. This was the right forum for First-time Entrepreneurs to know the evaluation of business scope, identify right products, market potential, investment quantum, etc. The conclave was inaugurated by the Chief Guest, Shri. Raghavendra Singh, IAS, Secretary Textiles, MOT with the Guest of Honor, Shri. Ajay Kumar Singh, DG Life SciencesDRDO. Shri. P. Nataraj, SIMA Chairman, Dr. Sundararaman K. S., Chairman, ITTA and Shri. Prabhu Damodaran, Convenor, ITF also graced the inaugural session. Speaking on the event, Shri. Raghavendra Singh, IAS, Secretary Textiles said that while the growth of technical textiles sector is spoken of enthusiastically and has been projected at 2 lakh crore by 2021. The industry and research institutes should come together to realize the sector’s full potential and asked industrialists to identify prototypes developed by COEsto adapt them to the industry. He also emphasized that the Govt. has classified 207 products as technical textiles for import and export, which will be expanded based on representations from stakeholders. He pointed out that two of the ten COEs are established in Coimbatore - PSG College and SITRA. Baseline surveys of the textile sector will reflect the real needs of the industry and the industry should help in the conduct of such surveys, he said. Over the past seven to eight months, he said that they had consulted various ministries in the Union govt. and State govt. and have come up with 106 textile products, for which standards already existed. “These belong to various sectors such as railways, home affairs, defence, shipping, agriculture and transport. We need to work on these with BIS, as we have the standards and have a procedure which could be made mandatory with these ministries for their tenderization process,” he said. He launched the ITTA video in the presence of all the delegates which contains the new concepts and technologies used in Technical Textiles for different products used in different sectors i.e. railways, defence, construction, medical, filtration, etc. According to Shri. Ajay Kumar Singh, Director-General of
36
Life Sciences, DRDO, in the Tejas light combat aircraft, the pilot’s clothing and gear were developed indigenously and only 10% of it was imported. A study shows that per capita non-woven consumption in India is 0.4 kg and it is 3.0 kgs in the U.S. By 2049, it is expected to be 25 kg in the U.S. and 20 kg in India. So, there is opportunity and “We can have phenomenal growth.” The need is for research and development. There is scope for development of fire-retardant clothing. The raw material for it has to be imported for the clothing to be developed locally now. Another area of potential is insecticide textiles and mats. This will benefit several applications,” he said. He urged the stakeholders to form a “mahagathbandhan” for the progress of the sector. Mr. P. Nataraj, SIMA Chairman, in his welcome address mentioned about the growing market opportunities of technical textile, the sunrise sector and urged textile entrepreneurs to focus on making more value added products like technical textiles. Dr. Sundararaman K. S., Chairman, ITTA briefed about the theme of the conclave to the gathering. He said, “In the previously done programs we have connected with the people who are already in the area. We wish to connect with those who are volunteering to invest in Technical Textiles. We want to see more new entrepreneurs coming into the field of Technical Textiles. The Indian Supply base has to grow tenfold to make some meaningful impact in the international arena”. Mr. Prabhu Damodaran, Convenor ITF said, “Our region is dynamic and the entrepreneurs here have been at the forefront of many new approaches and business opportunities. I am confident that this program will go a long way in motivating South Indian firms to venture into Technical Textiles. Being an event with a practical approach, entrepreneurs get first-hand information about the industry and its potential.”
ITTA signed Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with NISSENKEN, JAPAN to promote Technical Textiles in India. During the event, Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) has forged Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with Nissenken, Japan to promote Technical Textiles in India and Japan. The Chairman ITTA - Dr. Sundararaman K. S. signed this MoU with Mr. Nobuhiro Komada- Chairman of Nissenken Quality Evaluation Centre (NQEC). This relationship will benefit ITTA Member companies to develop & promote technical textiles in Japan.
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
EVENT REPORT Technical Sessions Eminent Speakers were from various Govt. R&D organizations, COEs, DRDO & Technical textile Industry and also includes international speakers from Nissenken, Japan & Messe Frankfurt who shared their rich experience and provide practical views on desirable projects, their market potential and how to actually launch such ventures. This direct attempt is one of a kind in the country. The Second Technical Session was chaired by Dr. Sundararaman K. S., Chairman ITTA. The following presentations were made during this session. This session witnessed the excellent presentations by the speakers from India and abroad. They include Mrs. T. Rajeswari, Additional Secretary, Ministry of Water Resources, Delhi, Mr. Devakanta Pahad Singh, Director PM & SQR (LS), DRDO and Mr. Ken Ando & Ms. Alexia Whitfield, Nissenken, Tokyo Lab, Japan.
ment research on CBRN Defence, Life Support, Operation support and Civil Military Interface. The requirements of technical textiles in defence are Physical requirementslight weight, low bulk, anti-static, etc., Environmental requirement- water repellent/proof, UV resistant, etc., Camouflage, Concealment and Deception- Visual spectrum, Ultraviolet, etc.,Flame, Heat and Flash Protection- Flame retardance, Heat resistant, etc., Battlefield HazardsChemical and Bio agents, Nuclear radiation, etc. and Economic Considerations- Minimal maintenance, Long Storage life, etc.He emphasized that DRDO & ACADEMIA can collaborate on CARS (Contract for Acquisition of Research Services), ER (Extramural Research), Research Boards and DRDO Centers located in Universitiesand DRDO & INDUSTRY can collaborate on Contracted Development, Joint development, Trial supply order and Technology Transfer (ToT). “Japanese Innovations in Functional Textiles & Corresponding Opportunities in India and Japan” was presented by Mr. Ken Ando & Ms. Alexia Whitfield. He talked about the Nissenken Quality Evaluation Center, Japan and its works in the field of Technical Textiles. The various Functionality Finishes are UV cut finishes, Water-repellent finishes, Water-absorbing quick drying finishes, Thermal barrier finishes, Soilresistance finishes, Anti-Virus finishes, Retro reflective Material, Anti-Mosquito finishes, Antiallergen finishes and Cool feeling finishes. He explained about the different opportunities where India and Japan can work together mainly to promote technical textiles. The Third Technical Session was chaired by Mr. Durai Palanisami, Director, Pallavva Group, Board MemberITF and three papers were presented.
Mrs. T. Rajeswari spoke about the “Usage of Technical Textiles in different depts. in Ministry of Water Resources”.She highlighted that technical textiles have provided innovative engineering solutions for several applications in civil and geotechnical engineering, for water infrastructure water resources projects. The technical textile products which are used in water resources works are geobags, geotubes, geomembranes and geo-containers. She also announced that Ministry of Water Resources (MoWR), Govt. of India is organizing the One day Seminar on “Use of Technical Textiles in Water Resources Works” on 29th April 2019 at R. K. Puram, New Delhi. ITTA is supporting the event. Mr. Devakanta Pahad Singh presented the topic on “Technical Textiles for the Armed Forces”. He spoke about the DRDO Technology Spectrum such as Armament & Combat Engineering, Missiles & Strategic Systems, Aeronautical Systems, Electronics & Communication Systems, Microelectronics & Computational Systems, Naval & Material Systems and Life Sciences.Life Sciences depart-
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
This session includes the presentations from Dr. Padma Vankar, Research Advisor, BTRA, Mr. Naman Barot, Scientific Officer, ATIRA and Mr. Rajeev Kumar Saxena, Sr. Technology Manager (Weaving), Lohia Corp Ltd. “Polymeric pressure sensor for smart textiles &Nanofiber application to improve anti-clogging property of Geotextiles” was presented by Dr. Padma Vankar. a) She explained about the development of Polymeric Piezo-electric Sensor for Smart Wearable Textile. A piezoelectric sensor usespiezoelectric effect to measure pressure, acceleration, temperature & strain wherein there are 2 types of piezoelectric effect i.e. direct piezoelectric effect- converts mechanical energy to electrical energy (generator & sensor effect) & indirect piezoelectric effectconverts electrical energy to mechanical energy (Actuator effect). Piezoelectric Materials are Ceramic base (ZnO, PZT, BZT ) and Polymer base (PA6, PVC, PVDF, PVDF-trFE). She suggested following points - 16% increase in crystallinity by addition of ZnO nanowires, 30% increase in β crystallinity compared to control PVDF, 22% increase in voltage compared to control PVDF, Change in signal possible by minimum pressure, Product can be woven or
37
EVENT REPORT knitted directly with the other filaments, Little cost addition to the existing product and Scalability is very easy, no need of any additional process. b) She talked about the Nanofiber coated prefabricated vertical drainage (PVD) membrane with improved anticlogging property. She explained about advantages of Nanofiber Media over Microfiber, features of Nanofiber, Nanofiber Spinning Process, Electro-spinning of PA6, Cross Section of The Product, Soil Particle Size before & after Filtration Using Microfiber Membrane, etc. She concluded with the following points- Fibre diameter could be reduced to get pore size less than soil particle size, Water permeability was found more for long duration in nanofiber media compared to existing media in presence of soil, Cross section of the exposed nanofiber loaded sample found clean and Nanofiber deposited media will help to reduce the consolidation time significantly. Mr. Naman Barot presented the topic on “Antibacterial & pollution face mask & Portable water filter bottle”. a) He said that India pollution mask market is projected to grow at more than 18% by 2023 across the urban areas. He pointed out that ATIRA procured a Nanospider Electrospinning Pilot Plant from Elmarco, Czech Republic and Nanofiber Production Pilot Plant Set up consists of Ultrasonic Cleaning Machine, Acid Fumes Scrubber, Electrospinning Pilot Plant, Polymer Station, Dehumidifier and Facemask Converting Automatic Machine. Flow Chart Of Production Plan -Nano fiber Pilot Plant (Nano Fiber Coated Media), Ultrasonic Stitching (Facemask production) and Packaging (Ready for Use). He explained in detail about the Testing of facemask media, property, Material consumption, Cost of Facemask Media, Cost of project-Capex and Major Key player in India for Facemask Market. b) He pointed out that the Development of nanofibers based filter media which gives water completely free from muddy particles and micro-organisms and to make and deliver a simple portable filtration device are the objective of the paper. The nanofibers based filtration membrane device is prepared by perforated tube, coated fabric wrapping on tube, fitration candle and filtration device with filter candle. Its characterizations are UVVisible (UV-Vis), X-ray Powder diffractometer (XRD), Field emission scanning electron microscope (FE-SEM), Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectroscopy (EDS), Microbial assay of filtered water performed by pour plate method, PALAS2010 and Turbidity meter. He mentioned the Cost of Water Filtration Bottle, Water Filter Bottle In Market (Using Conventional Microfiber Filtration Method), Material consumption and Cost of project Capex. Mr. Rajeev Kumar Saxena presented the topic on “Opportunities for weaving Geo-textile fabrics on Circular loom”.He said that Synthetic geotextile is the fastestgrowing material type segment of the geotextile market.
38
Polypropylene is the major material in demand, he claimed. Polypropylene woven Geotextile is in increasing demand in the Construction Industry and for safe & long lasting road construction. Asia-Pacific region represented the largest market for global geotextile market. The market for geotextiles in this region is mainly driven by the ongoing developments in construction industry. He also talked about the different products such as Geotextile Filter Fabric, PP Ground cover woven fabric, Weed control mats, On roof garden & terrace as drain & filter and HDPE Pond Liners. He explained about the development of bigger Circular looms (to produce max. flat fabric up to approx. 6.0m width) of high performance & quality and its advantages. The Fourth Technical Session was chaired by Mr. Prabhu Damodaran, Convenor, ITF. The following presentations were made during this session. This session has presentations by the speakers from India and abroad. They include Mr.Hemant Dantkale, Partner, DN associates, Mr. P. K. Choudhury, Principal Technologist, National Jute Board, Kolkata and Ms. Jesica John, Manager -Techtextil India, Messe Frankfurt India Ltd. Mr. Hemant Dantkale presented on “Airlay nonwoven products for automotive and building insulation”.He spoke about the Recycling and Nonwovens Eco-friendly solutions for the Automotive Industry. He explained in detail about the industrial textile waste, hard waste recycling, post consumer waste recycling and its nonwoven quality.Different nonwovens solutions for Automotive are blending lines for fibers and polymers, Airlay Flexiloft, Airlay Flexiloft +, Airfelt with Resin Felt Option and Airfelt. Above solutions are used for different applications in automotive sector. “Various types of Jute Geotextile (JGT) like woven, nonwoven, open weave” was presented by Mr. P. K. Choudhury.He highlighted global demand of technical textiles by application wherein TT represents about 31% of the total Textile Production. It is forecasted that in 2022 the market demand will be 35.5 million ton with CAGR of 3.7 %. He talked about the Jute Geotextiles (JGT) viz. woven, nonwoven, open weave etc. used in various civil engineering applications with success, machineries used to manufactures, its advantages. There are many Union States who have used JGT with success in Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, Manipur, Himachal Pradesh, etc. Some of the case studieswhere JGT are used: - Kakinada Port- Andhra Pradesh, Andulia-Boyratala Road- West Bengal, Agartala-Mohanpur-Chebri Road at Tripura, etc. He discussed about different application of JGT i.e. Slope Management, Protection of River Banks, Strengthening of Road Sub- Grade, Stability of Embankment, Prevention of Railway Track Subsidence and Consolidation of Soft Soil. Ms. Jesica John talked about the “Overview of the Techtex-
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
EVENT REPORT til-2019 on Technical Textiles”.She spoke about the overview of the Messe Frankfurt - Techtextil event worldwide. She also said Messe Frankfurt is organizing the Techtextil India 2019 on 20th - 22nd November 2019 in Mumbai focusing on the composites with different technical textile segments. Exclusive programs of the event is direct buyer seller meeting, Product gallery zone, knowledge forum and direct market update. She also mentioned that ITTA is supporting the event. The Fifth Technical Session was chaired by Dr. Anup Rakshit, Executive Director, ITTA and three papers were presented.
This session includes presentations from Dr. Prakash Vasudevan, Director, SITRA, Dr. Kuldip Kumar Sharma, Mentor, VFPL MEDEVICE and Mr. Andy Thayumanavan, GM, Reliance Inds. Ltd., Chennai. “Medical Textiles- Hernia Mesh, Vascular graft, Nano-finish surgical gown fabric, Barbed suture” was presented by Dr. Prakash Vasudevan.He delivered lot of information on the products of Medical Textiles, new opportunities available for entrepreneurs. Challenges involved in the production of Medical textiles, Market Statistics to identify the scope for new ventures. He revealed in detail about the facilities and assistance provided by SITRA for entrepreneurs’ development in Medical Textiles. He presented high potential medical textile areas of - Hernia Mesh, Vascular graft, Nano-finish surgical gown fabric and Barbed suture. Dr. Kuldip Kumar Sharma spoke on “Innovation Meditech Products- Transfer Device & MAMMA POD”. He highlighted that Innovations/patented devices developed Indigenously through the efforts of Government, Healthcare sector and research institutions under makein India and start-up India initiatives of Govt. of India. Hospital acquired infections (HAIs) are a major cause of mortality and morbidity. Hospital acquired infections (HAIs) is a major safety concern for both health care
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
providers and the patients. VPFL has developed Medical Devices/ Innovations such as Patient Transfer Device (PTD) (Transfer life) and Kangaroo Mother Care (Mamma Pod). The features of PTD are infection free, spill proof, no maintenance, no insertion and Nontoxic &Kangaroo Mother Care (Mamma Pod) are maintain warmth, safety & support early breast feeding for LBW, hands free mode to perform daily activities, early hospital discharge, pouch is flexible to accommodate the growth & weight of baby as it grows, etc. Other Innovations such as mattress protectors, soft and cozy baby care sheets, etc. Mr. Andy Thayumanavan presented the topic on “Polypropylene Nonwovens for Hygiene & Meditech”. He pointed out the applications of nonwoven fabric and different fibres used in Nonwoven where PP is the major Nonwoven fibre used globally. In India, major synthetic raw materials are Polypropylene (PP) - 58% & Polyester - 42%.He discussed in brief about the emerging application areas of PP Nonwoven i.e. Hygiene, Medical, Agrotextiles & Geotextiles, different nonwoven manufacturing processes and also said that Spunlaid technology to Gain Maximum Traction in the Near Future. The following conclusions and recommendations are suggested to use Nonwovens in Hygiene & Medical areas- Low Consumption, technology trends, Growing Economy, Rising Disposable Income, Govt. Initiatives/Awareness, Light Weight, Soft and Comfortable, Offers Safety Patient, Better Hygiene, Easy to Use and Dispose and no washing. The Panel discussion was on “Perspectives of entering Technical Textile Industry- from Inside and Outside” Mr. Amit Agarwal, Vice Chairman, ITTA was a Moderator and the experts Mr. Manoj Kumar Jhajharia, JMD, Salona Cotspin Ltd, Board Member-ITF, Mr. Mahesh Kudav, MD, Venus Safety, Director-ITTA, Mr. Pankaj Kapoor, MD, Park Nonwoven Pvt. Ltd., Director-ITTA and Mr. Gopinath Bala, CEO-SVS-SAF, Board Member-ITF were the panelists. You may see that in this panel discussions were a combination of experts who are already in the technical textile industry and others are from outside the technical textile industry. Mr. Kapoor and Mr. Kudav shared their valuable experience of more than 10-15 years’ journey of entering the industry. Mr. Gopinath Bala who has recently entered into the technical textile manufacturing also shares his success story. On the other hand Mr. Jhajharia who is in cotton textiles now, is also of the opinion that conventional textile business houses can enter this field. The conclave received over whelming response and attended by more than 200 delegates from the technical textile Industry, potential new Investors, Manufacturers who want to diversify, Start-Ups and Agents/ Dealers/ Distributors of Technical Textiles.
39
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS
LAUNCHING AUTOMATIC SPLICE CYCLES Proficient in efficiency! Increased performance, higher flexibility and superior quality. Heberlein AG is launching among other the following products for modification and treatment of synthetic yarns at ITMA Barcelona 2019 (Hall 6, booth D202) themed by the above motto.
Heberlein PolyJet SP-2 HP provides high-performance air interlacing for filament spinning applications
The Heberlein AirSplicer POY, the lightest AirSplicer for splicing POY during false twist texturing DTY. The automatic splice cycles ensures stable, operator independent quality. It is a robust design but guarantees smooth functioning under extreme condition and a high efficiency can be achieved by high transfer rates in the false twsit texturising process (depending to the yarn count from 95 to 100%).
The latest generation PolyJet has the full range of jet insert for producing all yarns including finer denier (<50den) with 0.9 mm air orifice. The SP-2 HP offers highperformance in terms of air interlacing tacks numbers and regularity, less broken filaments and reduced air consumption. It has been fully optimized for yarn less than 2.5 dpf and microfilaments operating at lower pressures. With a retrofit option, it is possible to replace the jet pack on existing SP-2 housings or for customers specific design as for Barmag FDY Wing as well as for TMT ORKA POY production machines.
Knot-free air interlacing for texturising
Taslan air – texturing – TexJet-ATY
The new KF Jet Insert guarantees there are no imperfections in the fabric such as pinholes, teardrops or stripes. It provides a 15 - 30% increased unwinding speed compared to non-interlaced yarn paired with improved energy efficiency compared to so called “soft interlacing”.
For the Taslan air-jet texturing program all approved TexHead types are shown, some will be launched and introduced for the first time at ITMA.
The Heberlein SlideJet-2T for best interlacing with lowest air consumption The special design was developed for processing fine multifilament yarn on Twin-Pac DTY machines with converted take-up positions (for twin packages). The cutting-edge jet inserts technology ensures improved interlacing, small variation from position to position and low air consumption. The ceramic material prevent wear out. The Heberlein WarpJet provides time saving on threading and energy efficient and customized Interlacing. The new WarpJet boosts performance improvements of 10 – 50% thanks to higher operating speeds, low air consumption and higher nip number. The modular design allows a choice between a cost optimization or high-end performance solution. The full range of Heberlein jets will operate on the WarpJet up to 32 ends. It’s simple to mount and unmount for easy maintainance.
40
Series Dx0, such as D40, D50 For voluminous yarns and high over feed up to 200%, for technical application and fashion Series Dx1, such as D12 For more volume, covering capacity, and overfeed and higher texturing speed Series Dx2, such as D002 for the processing of ultrafine ATY, total yarn count from 10 … 50 dtex Series Dx3, such as D13, D33, D43 For extremely compact high stable yarns, for automotive and houshold textiles Series Dx4, such as D14, D24, D34, D44 For effect yarns, for fashion, sportwear, leisure wear and household textiles
FACTSHEET
FACTSHEET
PolyJet-2 HP.
WarpJet-KV.
Air interlacing for the filament spinning plant
Air interlacing
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS
ITMA COUNTDOWN – FOCUS INDUSTRY 4.0 The future of the textile industry is more and more determined by Industry 4.0. Industry 4.0 has many dimensions and possible fields of application. In three of them (Smart Services, Operations and Factory), key solutions are provided by the machinery industry. The other ones from smart textile products, marketing and sales, employees up to strategy and organization are specific know-how issues for textile mills. At ITMA 2015 in Milan, Industry 4.0 was not a big issue. One could at least speak of first steps towards Industry 4.0. But in Barcelona we will already see real Industry 4.0 solutions. Six weeks prior to ITMA, Nicolai Strauch, press officer of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association, Germany, spoke to experts of VDMA member companies about their products and services with regard to digitization and Industry 4.0.
Interview partners were: yy Jochen Adler, CTO, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers yy Rebekka Dilo, Assistant to the Management, Oskar Dilo Maschinenfabrik yy Klaus Heinrichs, Vice President, Monforts Textilmaschinen yy Dr. Janpeter Horn, CEO, Herzog yy Leonhard Kemnitzer, Head of Marketing, Baumüller Nürnberg yy Steffen Müller-Probandt, Managing Partner, Dienes Apparatebau yy Marcus Ott, CEO, Halo electronic yy Jochen Stillger, Head of Sales, Thies Strauch: Mr. Adler, what can your customers expect ‘digitally’ from Oerlikon? Adler: I would say the digital refinement of our machines and production systems for manufacturing yarns, fibers, nonwovens along the textile value chain. We want to further optimize the efficiency of the systems and the quality of the end products with digital solutions. For this, we are deploying the know-how of our newly-integrated partner AC-Automation – which specializes in large-scale systems automation, transport, packaging and warehouse logistics and end product automated quality control. We combine this with our process competencies and digital data handling using our Plant Operation Center (POC). This has created Industry 4.0 solutions for our customers – with integrated storage and communication capabilities, wireless sensors, embedded actuators and intelligent software systems. In turn, this allows us to build bridges between data and material flows and between the virtual and real worlds. Strauch: And what aspects of all this can visitors already
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
see at the ITMA in Barcelona? Adler: At our trade fair stand we will be offering our visitors a digital experience that allows them to intensely discover and understand our machines, systems, components and services. Here, we will be deploying playful solutions to present the topic of artificial intelligence. We will be taking our 360-degree and augmented-reality applications as well as our virtual showroom with us, to allow visitors to experience complex systems live in 3D. The ‘digital factory’ is already in part becoming a reality in conjunction with our machine exhibits. Strauch: Mr. Müller-Probandt, company Dienes specialises in machine components for the manmade fiber production as well as textile special applications. One focus are pilot installations for research. How is Industry 4.0 touching this application? Müller-Probandt: One key product in our portfolio is a modular spinning system which allows customised solutions, starting from thread run studies to complete pilot installations. Each unit has its own PLC (Programmable Logic Controller), which allows to run DIENES units in foreign lines or to integrate foreign units in a DIENES line. The units can be operated with an interface directly or over the ethernet from an upper control system. Strauch: What are the advantages for customers e.g. research institutes or R&D departments? Müller-Probandt: Our modular system includes a line overview, which rearranges itself almost automatically for different operation modes in alternative machine sequences. The detailed process representation allows the customer to monitor directly the effect for all changes of parameters. If a good yarn could be realized it is possible to backtrack the journey of this yarn through the process. The parameters can be modified with mobile devices, like a pad or a mobile phone. All these functionalities allow the research institutes and industry to reduce the cost of investments and to operate fast and flexibly in the development of new products, which additionally save costs and time. Strauch: Let’s move forward in the textile chain. Ms. Dilo, how can Industry 4.0 help customers in the nonwovens industry to increase efficiency and so to decrease costs? Dilo: Our new operator system assists the operators through intelligent sensors and automatized modes allowing a reduction of workforce at nonwoven lines. At a line restart, the newly formed web may wrap around rollers in the card and crosslapper. The new starting mode automatically prefills the line and forms a stable
41
ITMA 2019INNOVATIONS start nonwoven, minimizing the risk of wrappings.
Strauch: What is the effect of this? Dilo: As a result, the line starts smoothly with minimal manual intervention. Moreover, an energy-saving technology helps to decrease costs at the fibers transport, one of the main energy consumers in needling lines. Instead of operating the ventilators for the fiber-air transport at maximum frequency, the system controls the ventilator speed according to the actual throughput and also gives warnings before blockages can occur. The technology therefore targets ecosensitive nonwoven producers, who also want to increase their line availability. This targets especially producers working with fiber blends and several bale openers respectively. Strauch: Dr. Horn, Herzog is producing braiding machines. What is your latest I 4.0 product and what is your approach? Dr. Horn: An additional module for Herzog machines, an app-box, with which Industry 4.0 scenarios can be realised without employing software teams or starting big Industry 4.0 projects. This technology is an app-based one. Apps can be downloaded and installed easily. Strauch: How do customers benefit from this? Dr. Horn: The customer can easily access the data of Herzog machines, e.g. on a PLC (Programmable Logic Controller). The data can be visualised on dashboards created by the customer on terminals or others. The data can be processed, e.g. by creating key figures, alarms or analyzation. Alarms and information could be transferred by e-mail, messengers. Furthermore, the data can be linked to order from pps systems or transferred to the machines – if the customer decides to go this way. Strauch: Can you quantify the benefit? Dr. Horn: No formation of software teams outside machines. New applications could be created easily. No additional software. Strauch: What is really new at this solution? Dr. Horn: It is the result of a three-year research project. Various innovations have been implemented: The use of cloud technologies on the shop floor; open source technologies for inexpensive apps; no internet connection is necessary. The main advantage however is the “oneclick” installation of apps which have been applicable only for smartphones and tablets. The apps are installed in a so-called box outside the machines. Strauch: The last steps in the textile chain is finishing. Mr. Heinrichs, what will Monforts present at ITMA? Heinrichs: Thanks to a support app for communication and an app for operating Monforts systems, Monforts machines now feature a “digital twin” that will be presented to the textile industry for the first time ever at ITMA in
42
Barcelona. With the help of advanced sensor technology, all technical data are mapped in the cloud virtually and in real time. The data in the cloud indicate the current state of the system with its respective specifications and can map the entire production process, enabling targeted analysis and controlled planning and production: Insights harnessed from data analyses can be used to optimise the actual production process.
Strauch: What is new about your solution / technology? Heinrichs: The status overview in real-time improves machine availability while minimising downtime considerably. Potential sources of error can be anticipated and eliminated. The digital twin provides information on individual wear parts of a system, such as converters or gears, for example. In the future operators will be able to see how long a wearing part will last and when it has to be maintained or replaced ahead of time. Direct access to the integrated Monforts webshop allows users to order wearing and spare parts at the press of the button when they are needed, virtually preventing machine downtime. On request, Monforts can monitor machine availability and proactively approach customers if action is required. Data is only ever called from the cloud provided customers have agreed, requiring their consent in the interest of data security.
Strauch: What advantages does this offer for your clients? Heinrichs: With the support app, the customer can contact Monforts service virtually 24 hours a day or at an arranged time via smartphone or tablet. Support is given right on site via a video connection. The Monforts service specialist can point out individual system parts on the customer’s smartphone using a mouse cursor and assist users in troubleshooting or operating the machine on site. Documents, such as machine documentation, can also be shown in real-time on the smartphone. Data can be used to analyse a system’s energy requirements. For example, machine operation can be optimised for production to go into full operation when electricity costs are at their lowest. Strauch: Let’s stay in the finishing process. Mr. Stillger, the company Thies specializes in dyeing technology. What is your latest 4.0 product? Stillger: For the ITMA 2019 we offer a new version of our maintenance system, which, among others, was extended by the condition monitoring module. It is an automated planning, execution and monitoring software for inspection, service and routine maintenance, which not only facilitates the procurement of spare parts, but also provides the corresponding technical documentation digitally. At the same time, we are laying the foundation for future machine-specific and customized machine-based learning from the history data.
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS In addition, a new controller generation will be offered together with one of our control suppliers, which will be open for I4.0 applications and at the same time can be connected to the corresponding MES (Manufacturing Execution System). Strauch: What specific benefit does a customer get from your solution / technology? Stillger: Optimization of production processes and production safety through completely transparent planning, implementation and monitoring tools. In the medium term, a significant reduction in process and maintenance time is achieved. There will be a reduction in the failure rate and the time to fix failures. All in all, a reduction in maintenance costs due to a purposefully controlled spare parts inventory and a prioritized and more efficient maintenance is expected. Strauch: Can you prove this with some facts and figures? Stillger: Customers will achieve higher machine efficiency through intelligent maintenance. Depending on the individual situation in the dye house, optimization of the processes may reduce the costs by 20 to 50%. Successful energy management (managing energy allocation) can lead to an additional 7% to 10% reduction in costs. Strauch: The VDMA supports the mechanical and plant engineering industry in the development of OPC / UA Companion Specifications. OPC / UA is an open interface standard that defines the mechanisms of cooperation in the industrial environment. What advantages does OPC / UA provide with regard to your solution / technology? Stillger: The OPC / UA interface enables standardized data transfer. A significant improvement in data quality is achieved. The new technology introduces customerspecific and system-specific monitoring of the functioning of the machine. Smarter sensors are used for process monitoring. Forward-looking history data are collected for the configuration of self-optimizing AI processes. Strauch: Mr. Ott, your company Halo electronics from Austria develops Enterprise-Resource-Planning (ERP) systems for the textile industry. Please, tell us more about your company. Ott: We provide custom-tailored IT solutions, that offer textile industry customers the perfect level of data transparency - from fibre to finished product. Direct communication between man and machine not only enables this consistently transparent presentation of all relevant data, but also gives employees flexible and, most importantly, mobile access to it. All important information is available on the handheld device while “on the go”. Strauch: How is the usability of your solution? Can you quantify the benefits of the product?
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
Ott: The intuitive software relies on language-independent icons instead of text and can therefore be used without training in any work environment. The resulting cost savings are clear. The seamless implementation of the software in all relevant production processes up to the point of delivery enables complete consistency and transparency of the data collection, which simplifies optimisation processes and gives management vital decision-making information. For example, the use of our software enables time savings of 45% for the storage and retrieval of products in the warehouse. Strauch: Mr. Kemnitzer, Baumüller is a well-known manufacturer of intelligent drive and automation systems as well as software for numerous branches, including textile machinery. One focus is simulation software. What’s actually new? Kemnitzer: Many simulation tools graphically depict machines and systems as 3D simulations. These standard tools focus on the behavior of the machines under optimal conditions. Our simulation software starts one step ahead. In the first step, the drives and the mechanical parts are selected for the respective application task in order to then verify the motion profiles of the machine. Strauch: What advantage does the software offer? Kemnitzer: Our software is very user-friendly. With classical simulation tools a large number of different parameters has to be entered. The advantage of our tool is the great simplification of the models without losing their accuracy. Application engineers can work with ready-made models that are just as accurate from the calculation cycles as they are in other simulation tools. Due to the complete integration in the operating software, the models are automatically parameterized and changes can be carried out very quickly. The result of the simulation process is a parameter set which can be used in the real application. This saves much time in the engineering process and reduces the time to market. Strauch: Thank you very much for this Industry 4.0 journey along the textile chain plus supplier. More than 200 VDMA member companies will exhibit at ITMA end of June. We are eagerly looking forward to a fantastic and successful ITMA in Barcelona. With more than 3,200 members based in Germany and other EU-/EFTA-countries, VDMA is the largest network organization for mechanical engineering in Europe. VDMA was founded in November 1892 and is the most important voice for the mechanical engineering industry today. It represents the issues of the mechanical and plant engineering sector. VDMA has representative offices in Berlin and Brussels as well as liaison offices in important foreign markets and successfully accompanies its members in global markets.
43
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS
DILO GROUP Hall 5, booth No. B201 equipped with the new needle pattern 6000X to give a very homogeneous stitching distribution.
At ITMA 2019 DiloGroup will once again exhibit a complete operating production line on a booth space of ca. 1.100 m². This line will illustrate improvements and modifications as well as innovations in numerous machine designengineering aspects. The complete technological process starting with fibre preparation via card feeding, to precise web forming and the new Hyperpunch Hα needling will be shown. Elements of “industry 4.0” have been incorparated to design the assisting operating system “diloline 4.0”. Dilo needlefelt production line, working width 7 m In the fibre preparation phase with DiloTemafa components, the Baltromix Pro” will show a faster blend changeover which is a prerequisite for even higher throughput. An exact control of the filling level avoids idling or over-filling by feeding fibre bales with the aid of a “bale timer”. The sensor module “DI-LoWatt” assures fibre transport with a minimum of air and thus saves energy.
Needle arrangement “8000X” for a more even needlefelt surface An automatic starting-aid “smart-start” for the card with automatic threading to crosslapper and needleloom reduces the number of manual interventions. In the field of “textile additive manufacturing” the “3D-Lofter” will offer further chances of fibre savings for needlefelts used in the automotive and other applications because topologically distributed fibre masses can be positioned in the felt where needed by so called “individual webforming spots”. “diloline 4.0” includes a wide variety of “smart manufacturing” actions in collaboration with Siemens which all aim at further simplifying operation, increasing transparency in web forming and consolidation thereby increasing efficiency. Production data are stored, documented and compared. An “alarm monitor” indicates disturbances. A production analysis documents the reasons for standstill times. This data can be used to avoid disturbances. Numerous information modules can be recalled via mobile apps and cloud data (mindSpheres). All these methods to control the machines and to generate production data will be helpful to further secure the complex functions within the production system independently of personnel and shift. DiloGroup looks forward to meeting numerous visitors from around the world at this most important textile machinery exhibition in Barcelona from June 20 – 26, 2019.
The current universal card feeder VRS-P Vibration Chute is supplemented by a fine opening stage to further improve feeding quality. After the “VectorQuadroCard” the latest version of our high speed crosslapper “HyperLayer” will be included which allows highest throughput at small to medium layering widths and which is especially suited for hydroentanglement lines. The advantages of the elliptical needle beam kinematics of Hyperpunch technology is even better used in the “Hyperpunch Hα” loom as a very economic version of the classical Hyperpunch technique. The needleloom on show – DI-LOOM OD-II SLHαV – is
44
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS
SUPERBA’S NEW MCD/3 SPACE DYEING MACHINE
The latest Superba MCD/3 space dyeing machine.
winding technologies.
Superba, a Vandewiele company, will introduce the latest version of its MCD/3 space dyeing machine for carpets at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26, along with further new developments in heat-setting, texturizing and
Suberba leads the field in heat-setting machines, having installed more than 350 of its TVP3 lines for all types of carpet yarns, whether polyester, polypropylene, polyamide PAN, wool or blends. A further 80 LV3 models for acrylic yarns are also now successfully running at carpet plants around the world. The latest MCD/3 space dyeing machine is meanwhile capable of handling a layer of 72 ends with an unequalled range of spot length – especially for the ultra-short spots of below 25mm.thus enabling “one-pile/one-color” process on the carpet. In combination with a TVP3 heat-setting line, it can space dye polyester or polyamide yarns with up to six colours and also allow special dyeing effects such as bi-colour printing to be achieved. Superba space-dyed carpet with bicolour For acrylic yarns, the print. MCD/3 can similarly be combined with Superba’s new high capacity DL/5 setting line. Further synergies are possible with Vandwiele weaving or tufting machines, with all technologies now being equipped for machine-to-machine interaction and learning, as part of the company’s comprehensive TEXconnect programme. The company’s sensors, software programmes and servers have become increasingly sophisticated and the real-time data from different machines – across connected manufacturing sites and across different countries and even continents – can be collected and shared. Digital models of both machines and production processes can be created and analysed for the optimisation of production settings, to vastly improve sched-
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
uling and planning and also make considerable savings on raw materials and energy. For carpet manufacturers, all of this is leading to the creation of truly Smart Factories. Superba space-dyed carpet with bicolour Further Vandwiele inprint. novations to be un-
clude:
veiled by the company at ITMA 2019 will in-
•The new RCE2+ Rug and Carpet Expert weaving machine – a truly digital workhorse, with all yarns continuously controlled and measured and the difficult bobbin changes of the past completely eliminated due to Vandewiele’s latest Fast Creel,. •The new VSi32 Velvet Smart Innovator jacquard, in combination with the latest Smart Creel, for the production of Italian velvet – combining the potential of flat woven jacquard fabrics with pile yarns leading to the potential for the creation of whole new range of fabrics for the home and for fashion. •The INCA (interlacing by non-continuous air) system for BCF extrusion systems – a new method for intermingling BCF yarns which greatly improves tangle knot uniformity for significant cost savings. •The Vandewiele Cobble Colortec L+, which is now the most versatile tufting machine available on the market. •A range of jacquards from Vandewiele Bonas, demonstrated across ITMA 2019 above flat weaving machines from the industry leaders, as well as Vandiele’s own RCE2+. •The completely revised Titan 5540 carpet finishing machine from Vandewiele Titan, which is now able to accommodate carpets with straight, round and complexlyshaped corners simultaneously. •he Vandewiele Protechna Arraycam 5420 optical inspection system which is suitable for monitoring standard fabrics on all common tricot warp knitting machines. • The latest IRO-ROJ weft insertion technologies. Superba is at stand D206 in Hall 6 at ITMA 2019, while the Vandwiele Group’s main stand is in Hall 4, stand A206, at ITMA 2019.
45
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS
FABRIC INSPECTION: A CRUCIAL ELEMENT OF ANY SUCCESSFUL TEXTILE PRODUCTION sical inspection machines with newly developed human interface. Available for inspection and cutting processes, classical inspection and cutting or 2-step solution with cutting optimizing system. 3. Touch free laser length measuring system A new generation of laser length measuring devices which work completely accurate at fast and at crawling speed! All three innovations can be integrated in your existing inspection department and most of your current equipment can still be used. Maag Brothers Machine Works from Switzerland is a globally leading producer of performant machines in the field of quality assurance for the textile industry. Our area of expertise includes fabric inspection, plating, selvedge printing and packaging. At ITMA 2019, we are proud to showcase our newest innovations in the field of automated visual error detection and IT solutions. Thanks to our new visual technology, Maag fabric inspection machines can now run up to 3x faster whilst becoming even more accurate in error detection. Combined with our optimized human interface tool MaagQTex and the seamless integration of data in our clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ERP systems, your textile production processes will be greatly improved. At our stand, the specialists from Maag Brothers Machine Works will show you with real life cases from around the world how our new innovative solutions can turn your inspection department into a high-performance service center with up to 100% fault recording guarantee and low personal costs.
About Maag Brothers Machine Works Ltd. Maag Brothers Machine Works from Switzerland is a globally leading producer of performant machines in the field of quality assurance for the textile industry. Our area of expertise includes fabric inspection, plating, selvedge printing and packaging. The family run company represents over 140 years of experience in machine making. For 6 generations now, the Maag family is committed to long-term and trustful client relationships. Thanks to this long tradition and their outstanding engineering skills, Maag can offer tailormade and highly reliable machines for various different client needs. Outstanding client service and innovative IT and logistics solutions round up Maagâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading product offering.
Press Release We are pleased to present you the following three innovations: 1. Automated fabric inspection solutions Our new generation of high-speed inspection systems. Thanks to the integration of a new automatic camera system, the Maag inspection machines can run up to 3x faster and thus greatly speed up your production processes. And what is equally important, the error detection is improved as well. This new technology effectively supports your factory workers and especially makes 3 shift (24x7) production processes more effective and reliable. 2. Electronic error data recording system MaagQTex Fully integrated error data recording system for all clas-
46
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS
RABATEX LINES-UP INNOVATIVE WEAVING PREPARATORY TECHNOLOGIES a maximum creel capacity of 16 colours and is suitable of attaining maximum speeds of up to 1,200 metres per minutes.
yy High speed Sample Warping Machine suitable for yarn range between 5 to 500 Tex yy Sectional Warping Machine has user friendly advance software & data management yy Single End Sizing Machine offers 4, 8, 12 and 16 spindle configurations India based and innovation driven company, Rabatex Industries has lined-up the latest and innovative weaving preparatory technologies including battery operated material handling equipment in a 72 square metre stall at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona in Hall no. 4, Booth no. D215. The technologies on display include an Automatic Sample Warper, Single End Sizing Machine, Advanced Sectional Warper, Battery Operated Material Handling Equipment and also an Ultrasonic Reed Cleaning Machine. The Rabatex high speed Automatic Sample Warping Machine model RI 6001 is primarily for production of samples and short production warp at very high production rate. The RI 6001 has a robustly constructed warping drum, suitable up to widths of 2400 mm and for warping lengths between 21 and 450 metres (depending on thread density) and suitable for yarn range from 5 to 500 Tex. The RI 6001 comes with a heavy duty rotational creel with
The Rabatex Sectional Warping Machine RI 112 is a stateof-the-art technology which produces high quality warp beams with higher productivity. The RI 112 comes with user friendly advance software and data management, which offers all online data of warping operations. It also offers graphical display of all events and breakages and also loss end memory control. The ergonomically designed Single End Sizing Machine RI 8001 offers 4, 8, 12 and 16 spindle configurations and produces sized yarn of the highest quality to ensure trouble-free and smooth weaving operations. The RI-8001 is suitable for cotton yarn in the range of 10’s to 120’s Ne and polyester yarn in the range of 30 to 210 deniers, with option of dry steam or electric heater drying system. Rabatex operates four fully functioning manufacturing units, dedicated to producing state-of-the-art machineries and technologies. Another plant covering an area of 50,000 square metres is under construction, which would be devoted for manufacturing material handling and storage equipment. “All our technologies, including those on display at our ITMA 2019 stall are very robust and so require very less maintenance. We have developed these technologies through our in-house R&D team and go through rigorous tests before being launched in the market,” Mr Haresh Panchal, Managing Director of Rabatex Industries said. “We have grown in double digits in the last few years, thanks to the continuous launching of new technologies and also due to the excellent after sales service support, which we provide to our customers,” Mr Panchal added.
UNITECH TEXMECH TO DISPLAY HIGH QUALITY SPINNING RINGS India based Unitech Texmech Pvt Ltd, the market leaders in spinning rings since 1976, will be showcasing their latest range of high quality spinning rings at ITMA 2019 in Hall No. 7, Stall no. C119. Unitech rings are finely designed products designed to spin yarn from any kind of
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
fibres like cotton, polyester, acrylic, wool, flex, blends, etc. Unitech Texmech offers a wide range of rings to cater to the varied needs of the industry and offer a lifetime of 3–8 years depending upon count, speed, fibre characteristics and under normal working conditions. These rings
47
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS The UNI QC Ring is produced from 100Cr6 steel. The ring is suitable for spinning yarns from all types of fibres and is a true value for money black ring. The UNI ULTIMA Ring is a product with a unique surface coating, especially suitable for machines running at very high speeds, elite and compact spinning systems. Here too, the very best quality 100Cr6steel is used and additionally a very hard and thin microfilm of atomic coating is given, to ensure superior gliding and wear resisting properties at high speeds.
include the UNIK1, UNI Ultima, UNI QC, UNISX, Steel Conical & Vertical Rings, ISQ Conical & Vertical Rings and Stainless Steel Rings. The UNIK1 ring has excellent wear resistant properties and is tougher than coated rings. It undergoes a specialised surface treatment, which gives the ring high fatigue strength for consistent performance from the time the ring is placed on the ring frame. The UNIK1 ring is ideal for spinning fine and super fine counts, compact yarns, dyed yarns as well as yarns made from highly abrasive fibres such as Acrylic, Polypropylene, Kevlar, Linen, Bamboo, Polyester, Melange, Modal, etc. On the other hand, the UNI QC Ring is an economically priced product with salient features of coated rings. Special hardening process using the latest thermo ‘SHOCK’ treatment, imparts a micro diffusion effect to the ring for best wear resistance and absolute surface and matrix properties.
Unitech has also launched an advanced version of normal conical and vertical rings called ISQ Series Conical & Vertical Rings. The ISQ Series rings are made from a special type of alloy steel and have a fine grain micro structure matrix for even and uniform friction properties. The ISQ Series Conical & Vertical Rings are subjected to a high technology process to enhance the wear resistance and for smooth gliding movement of the traveler, resulting in consistent quality of yarn, very important in production of high value wool yarn. These conical rings are manufactured in all sizes and of all heights like 6.4mm, 9.1mm, 11.1mm, 17.4mm, and 25.4mm, while the vertical rings range from 6.4mm to 50.8mm in height. Unitech Texmech has been exporting its technologies to several countries since 1985, which include UK, Italy, Germany, USA, Hong Kong, Turkey, Mexico, Thailand, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Japan, Taiwan, Argentina, Peru, Vietnam, Malaysia, South Africa and many more countries.
SONOCO ALCORE INTRODUCES NEW ECOSPAN CORE FOR TEXTILES Brussels, Belgium – Sonoco Alcore will debut Sonoco’s new, patented EcoSPAN™ engineered textile cores to global manufacturers at the upcoming ITMA show, 20-26 June in Barcelona, Spain. Sonoco’s EcoSPAN technology creates a tailored friction surface to drive optimal performance in the demanding realm of Spandex yarn production. Unlike current Spandex yarn cores that use a film-based material on the outer surface, which creates friction-driven transfer problems and minimizes the ability for customization, EcoSPAN cores use a patented, customizable, aqueous coating, eliminating the need for additional film materials on the outer surface. This makes EcoSPAN cores 100 percent recyclable –
48
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
ITMA 2019 INNOVATIONS meaning they can be reclaimed and recycled at mills that can accept cores, making them a more sustainable option than comparable cores. “With EcoSPAN, we have the unique capability to customize the friction performance of the core surface to match each of our customers’ unique requirements,” said Ismael Hernandez, Sonoco Global Technology – Textiles. “And because our surface properties can be tailored so finely,
we’re able to create a much more efficient transfer environment that improves string-up and overall operational efficiency – resulting in increased speed, throughput, productivity and profitability, all while considering environmental concerns.” To learn more about EcoSPAN cores and view a video, visit https://www.sonocoalcore.com/products-services/textilecores/ecospanr.
BALDWIN TECHNOLOGY TO LAUNCH THE TEXCOAT G4 Revolutionizing textile finishing by enhancing sustainability and total process control Baldwin Technology Company Inc., a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, is pleased to announce the launch of the TexCoat G4 at the ITMA trade show in Barcelona from June 20-26, 2019. The TexCoat G4 is the next generation of the company’s revolutionary non-contact precision application system for fabric finishing. The system enables a continuously high quality and productive textile finishing process with zero chemistry waste and drastically reduced water and energy consumption. TexCoat G4 will be demonstrated by Baldwin in Hall H2, stand A204. “We are immensely proud to launch the TexCoat G4 at ITMA 2019,” said Eric Norling, Vice President Precision Application Segment, Baldwin Technology. “This is an opportunity to experience an innovation that drastically improves both the process and product quality, while saving time, valuable resources and contributing to a sustainable future.” The non-contact spray technology brings numerous advantages compared to conventional methods of applying finishing chemistry. The chemistry is uniformly distributed across the textile surface and is applied only where it is required – on one or both sides of the fabric. This is highly
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
beneficial e.g. when applying water repellants on laminated fabrics, as it eliminates the problem of chemistry affecting the quality of the adhesion layer. Furthermore, the non-contact technology eliminates chemistry dilution in wet-on-wet processes, allowing full control of maintaining consistent chemistry coverage rates. Additionally, with no bath contamination during the finishing process, there is zero downtime during colour or fabric changeovers. The TexCoat G4 significantly improves sustainability, leading to increased profitability. 100% of the over sprayed chemistry is recycled and 0% chemistry is wasted during changeovers of chemistry, colour or fabric. As only the necessary amount of chemistry is applied to the fabric, a reduced wet pick-up level of 50% can be achieved, further leading to a 50% reduction of water and energy consumption. The low wet pick-up levels together with a single side spray application enable combined processes and can completely eliminate drying steps, e.g. for laminated fabrics and in the finishing of upholstery textiles. “One of the biggest challenges facing the textile finishing industry is the environmental impact in terms of energy, chemical and water consumption, with continuously increasing environmental legislations and consumer demands to meet,” said Norling. “Since the TexCoat G4 reduces both water and energy consumption and has zero chemistry waste in changeovers, a significantly more sustainable finishing process is achieved.” The TexCoat G4 offers the possibility of unprecedented tracking and control of the finishing process to secure a consistent quality. Changeovers are easily and quickly performed thanks to the recipe management including automated chemistry and coverage selection. Furthermore, the system offers automated speed tracking, fabric width compensation, real-time monitoring possibilities to track system uptime, performance, and chemistry usage, as well as active care alerts.
49
SHOW CALENDAR 2019 JUNE 2019 3-5 CINE Shanghai/ China www.cine-shanghai.com 6-8 NON WOVEN TECH ASIA 2019 Delhi / INDIA www.nonwoventechasia.com 20-26 ITMA 2019 Barcelona, Spain www.itma.com JULY 2019 3-6 Garment Manufacturer Sourcing Expo Bangkok/ Thailand www.gftexpo.com/gms/ 15-17 YARNEX 2019 New Delhi/ India http://delhi.yarnex.in/ 15-17 F&A SHOW New Delhi/ India http://www.fnashow.in/ 15-18 NGF Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in 18-20 GENTEX LANKA 2019 Colombo/ Sri Lanka www.gentexfair.com AUGUST 2019 2-4 GTE 19 Gandhinagar / India www.garmenttechnologyexpo.com 3-5 Yarn Expo 2019 Surat/India www.yarnexpo.sgcci.in 10-12 GARTEX Texprocess India New Delhi/ India www.gartexindia.com 9-12 TEXFAIR 2019 Coimbatore/ India texfair@simamills.org 22-25 CTG Phnom Penh/ Cambodia www.camboexpo.com 29-31 TECHNOTEX 2019 Mumbai/ India www.technotexindia.in SEPTEMBER 2019 12-14 YARNEX Tirupur/ India http://yarnex.in 17-19 PREMIERE VISION Paris / France www.premierevision.com 20-22 Textile Asia Lahor / Pakistan www.textileasia.com.pk
50
5-27 Vibrant Terry Towel Global Expo Solapur / India www.vibrantterrytowel.com OCTOBER 2019 22-24 FILTECH Cologne/Germany www.filtech.de NOVEMBER 2019 1-4 MTG Yangon/ Myanmar www.myanmar-expo.com 12-14 International Sourcing Expo Melbourne / Australia www.internationalsourcingexpo.com 13-15 INTEX SOUTH ASIA Colombo / Srilanka www.intexfair.com/ 16-18 TexHub Istanbul / Turkey www.texhubistanbul.com/tr/ 20-22 Techtexil INDIA Mumbai / India techtextil-india.in.messefrankfurt.com 20-23 VTG 2019 Ho Chi Minh city/ Vietnam www.vtgvietnam.com 25-28 SHANGHAITEX 2019 Shanghai / China www.shanghaitex.cn
DECEMBER 2019 5-8 ITMACH INDIA Gandhinagar / India www.itmach.com 5-8 ITES Gandhinagar / India www.itsexhibition.com JANUARY 2020 7-10 HEIMTEXTIL 2020 Frankfurt / Germany heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com 10-13 DOMOTEX 2020 Hannover / Germany www.domotex.de 30-31 NGF 2019 Mumbai/ India www.cmai.in FEBRUARY 2020 14-16 ITME AFRICA 2020 Ethopia / Africa www.itme-africa.com 20-23 DTG 2020 Dhaka/ Bangladesh www.bangla-expo.com
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
www.truetzschler.com
TD 9T Is it possible to achieve maximum economic efficiency and reliability in the smallest of spaces?
The answer is a definite Yes when it comes to our new breaker Draw Frame TD 9T. It is available as twin draw frame or single version, thus Due to its intelligent concept, the twin version is compact and requires little space.
every even or uneven number of drawing heads can be implemented. For the first time in short staple spinning, it also features a new can format: Jumbo Cans with 1,200 mm diameter reduce the number of can transports and significantly improve the efficiency of the downstream machines.
Getting fibers into shape â&#x20AC;&#x201C; since 1888.
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
51
Media Partner
3 4 5 AUGUST 2019 SURAT - GUJARAT - INDIA 52
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
53
DN Associates represent in India the following Textile Machinery & Accessories manufacturers N.Schlumberger, France : Spinning preparatory machines for Spun and filament LONG fibres (Website:www.nsc-schlumberger.com) ANDRITZ Asselin Thibeau, France : Complete Nonwoven Lines : DrylaidNeedlepunched, Hydroentangled and others, Wetlaid, Spunlaid and special machines for chemical/hydro finishing (Website:www.andritz.com/nonwoven) Laroche SA, France: Opening and Blending Lines, Textile waste recycling Lines and “Airlay” Nonwoven Lines (Website: www.laroche.fr) LACOM GmbH, Germany : Hotmelt Laminating and Coating Systems – Multi Purpose, Multi Roller, Gravure Roller and Slot Die for complete range of Technical Textiles (Website:www.lacom-online.de) Schott & Meissner, Germany : Ovens, Dryers, Heat Recovery Systems, Heating/cooling calenders, Wet/Dry cooling systems, Cutters, accumulators, Winders, Palletisers and Bonding systems (Website: www.schott-meissner.de) Mariplast Spa, Italy : All type of Yarn Carriers for spun and filament yarns including dye tubes for filament/long fibre yarns (Website: www.mariplast.com) MORCHEM S.A.U., Spain : PUR Hotmelt Adhesives for Technical Textiles, Solvent Based, Water Based adhesives, cleaners and primers https://www.morchem.com/markets-and-solutions/textile-lamination/ Valvan Baling Systems, Belgium : Baling and Bump forming machines for spun fibres and textiles waste recycling lines (Website:www.valvan.com) C + L Textilmaschinen GmbH, Germany : Reeling (Yarn Hank Forming) Machines, steaming, Bulking and Banding Machines for yarns (for Western and Southern India) (Website:www.croon-lucke.com) Schmauser Precision GmbH, Germany : Pin Strips, Faller Bars, Disposable Faller Bars for Intersecting Gills and Chain Gills. Top Combs for Combing Machines in long fibre Spinning Preparatory Lines (website: www.schmauser.com) Groz-Beckert Carding Belgium NV, Belgium : Clothing for Cards and Cylinders used in processing of long fibres, nonwovens and waste recycling (website:www.groz-beckert.com) FARE' S.p.A., Italy : Complete Lines for Spunbond / Meltblown nonwoven products /complete line to produce all type of fibers including mono and bicomponent including PET and PET fibers. Machines for producing Tapes and Rafia (website www.farespa.com) Contact : DN Associates E-mail : info@dnassociates.co.in Website: www.dnassociates.co.in H.O.: 406, “Kaveri” Jagannath Mandir Marg, Opp. Holiday Inn, Near Sakinaka Metro Station, Mumbai–400 072 Contact Person : Mr. Hemant Dantkale Mobile : 98201 06018 Phone No.: 022-28516018 E-mail : hdantkale@dnassociates.co.in Regd.Office: B-310, Universal Meadows, Plot No. 27, New Sneh Nagar, Wardha Road, Nagpur – 440 015 Contact Person : Mr. Yogesh Nawandar Mobile : 98901 53766 Phone No. :0712-2289662 E-mail : ynawandar@dnassociates.co.in 49 www.textilevaluechain.com June 2018Office at Branch Coimbatore May 2019 March 2018
www.textilevaluechain.com www.textilevaluechain.com
51
9
Platinum Sponsor of ITMA 2019 Pioneering innovation in digital textile print technology
Showcasing
1.8 METER - DIRECT TO FABRIC DIGITAL TEXTILE PRINTER
Visit us at Hall No. H3 | Stand No. B102 | 20 - 26 June, 2019
May 2019
For more info, contact us at +91 120 4897992, Whatsapp +91- 9379059800 info@colorjetgroup.com, www.colorjetgroup.com
www.textilevaluechain.com
55
3rd INTERNATIONAL
TEXTILE MACHINERY & ACCESSORIES EXHIBITION
5
6
7
8
December 2019 The Exhibition Centre Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India
Arvind Semlani | +91 9833977743 | info@itmach.com Amey Dangarwala | +91 9375064401 | amey@itmach.com SUPPORTING INDUSTRY ASSOCIATIONS
ORGANISERS
The Ahmedabad Textile Processorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Association
MEDIA PARTNERS
56
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
May 2019
www.textilevaluechain.com
57
Hall H7 Stand A210
TECHNOLOGY
AUTOMATIC WINDER
ECOPULSARS AUTOMATIC BOBBIN FEEDING TYPE
EFFICIENCY
Eco PulsarS: sustainable eco-green advantage. The machine, with its sustainable eco-green advantage, replies to the markets demand of energy saving including room air conditioning, together with improved production performances, high quality packages and utmost flexibility.
QUALITY OUTPUT
AUTOMATED SOLUTIONS
Marketed by: A.T.E. ENTERPRISES PRIVATE LIMITED A-19, CTS No 689,Veera Desai Road Andheri (West) Mumbai - 400053, India Tel: +91-22-66766100 E-mail: spinning@ateindia.com
58
SAVIO INDIA LTD. Nallattipalayam, Tamaraikulam - Post Pollachi, Coimbatore - 642109 Tamil Nadu, India Tel. +91 4259 304555-Fax +91 4259 304567 E-mail: mail@savioindia.in
SAVIO MACCHINE TESSILI S.P.A. Via Udine, 105, 33170 Pordenone, Italy Tel. +39 0434 3971 Fax +39 0434 397599 www.saviospa.it www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019
INTERVIEW
60
www.textilevaluechain.com
May 2019